MODSMOCKINGPART1+sample CANADIAN SMOCKING

CONTEMPORARY USE OF SMOCKING TECHNIQUES
FOR DEVELOPMENT OF UTILITY ARTICLES
Thesis
Submitted to the Punjab Agricultural University

in partial fulfillment of the requirements
for the degree of
MASTER OF SCIENCE
in
CLOTHING AND TEXTILES
(Minor Subject: Sociology)
By
Shikha Bajaj
(L-2012-H.Sc.-332-M)
Department of Apparel and Textile Science

College of Home Science
© PUNJAB AGRICULTURAL UNIVERSITY
LUDHIANA-141004
2014
CERTIFICATE I
This is to certify that the thesis entitled „„Contemporary Use of Smocking
Techniques for Development of Utility Articles‟‟ submitted for the degree of Master of
Science in the subject of Clothing and Textiles (Minor subject: Sociology) of the Punjab
Agricultural University, Ludhiana, is a bonfide research work carried out by Shikha Bajaj
(L-2012-H.Sc.-332-M) under my supervision and that no part of this thesis has been
submitted for any other degree.
The assistance and help received during the course of investigation have been fully
acknowledged.
_________________________________
Dr (Mrs) Harminder Kaur Saini
Major Advisor
Professor
Department of Apparel and Textile Science
College of Home Science
Punjab Agricultural University
Ludhiana-141004, Punjab
CERTIFICATE II
This is to certify that the thesis entitled “Contemporary Use of Smocking Techniques
for Development of Utility Articles” submitted by Shikha Bajaj (L-2012 H.Sc.-332- M) to the
Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana, in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree
of M.Sc. in the subject of Clothing and Textiles (Minor subject: Sociology) has been approved
by the Student‟s Advisory Committee along with Head of the Department after an oral
examination on the same.
_____________________________ _______________________
Dr (Mrs) Harminder Kaur Saini Dr (Mrs) Sapna Gautam
Major Advisor External Examiner
Associate Professor,
Department of Textiles &
Apparel Designing,
COHSc, CSKHPKVV,
Palampur (H.P.)
_____________________
Dr (Mrs) Sandeep Bains
Head of the Department
______________________
Dr. Gursharan Singh
Dean, Postgraduate Studies
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
First of all, I would like to thank God, Almighty, with whose kindness I have been
able to make this pleasurable achievement in my life.
Achievements are products of sincere efforts, and cooperation and support of our
well wishers, so it is my privilege to thanks all those who helped and supported me
throughout the study.
With extreme pleasure, I record my gratitude and indebtedness to my major advisor,

Dr(Mrs) Harminder Kaur Saini, Professor, Department of Apparel and Textile Science, for
her adept guidance, inspiring directions, enthusiastic interest and constructive criticism
throughout the course of this study without which it would have been impossible to
accomplish the present work.
I owe sincere thanks to the members of Advisory Committee, Dr (Mrs) Harinder Kaur
Saggu, Professor, Department of Apparel and Textile Science, Dr. Sukhdev Singh, Professor,
Department of Economics and Sociology and Dr (Mrs) Vandana Gandotra, Associate
Professor, Department of Apparel and Textile Science for their valuable suggestions and
timely help in successful completion of the work.
My affectionate gratitude is to my respected and beloved parents for their blessings.

Words are not enough to express my gratitude to my mother for her constant support and
help.
I also express my thanks to my husband, whose constant cooperation, encouragement

and unending sacrifices helped me from time to time during the study.
I take this opportunity to extend my thanks to all the teaching and non teaching staff
of Department of Apparel and Textile Science for their kind help as and when needed.
I also render my whole hearted thanks to the respondents for their cooperation and
generous response during the course of collection of data used in my thesis.
Last but not the least, I express my cordial thanks to all my friends who energised me
during the hard moments. In the end, I am thankful to all whose name may not have been
mentioned but are not forgotten.
Dated:
Place: (Shikha Bajaj)
Title of the Thesis : Contemporary Use of Smocking Techniques for
Development of Utility Articles
Name of the Student : Shikha Bajaj
and Admission No. (L-2012-H.Sc.-332-M)
Major Subject : Clothing and Textiles
Minor Subject : Sociology
Name and Designation : Dr. (Mrs.) Harminder Kaur Saini
of Major Advisor Professor
Degree to be Awarded : M.Sc.
Year of award of Degree : 2014
Total Pages in Thesis : 49+Appendices+Vita
Name of the University : Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana – 141004,
Punjab, India
ABSTRACT
The investigation entitled „Contemporary use of smocking techniques for

development of utility articles‟ was carried out in Ludhiana city. An interview schedule was
prepared for the purpose of collecting data from 90 female respondents between the age group
of 20-40 years selected randomly from three localities of Ludhiana city. The results of the
study revealed that majority of the respondents were graduates, belonging to nuclear families
and had an income ranged between `10,000 to 50,000. Majority of the respondents were not
aware of smocking techniques. Among the utility articles respondents preferred cushion
cover, handbag, bolster cover, folder, lampshade, footwear, pillow cover, jewellery box,
curtain canopies and trimming for bedsheet the most. Plain fabric was most preferred with
blue, pink, red, yellow, purple and brown as the preferred colours. Single coloured fabric was
the most preferred colour combination by the respondents. Polyester yarn was most preferred
by the respondents for smocking stitches followed by cotton yarn. In case of embellishments,
laces and beads were preferred the most. Pillow cover was the most preferred article on the
basis of suitability of fabric and utility. Cushion cover was preferred the most on the basis of
design, colour and overall impact and jewellery box was the most preferred article on the
basis of embellishments used. Majority of the respondents found the idea of making utility
articles by using smocking technique as innovative and unique. The quoted price of the utility
articles was found to be adequate and 26.67 to 53.85 percent profit can be earned by making
utility articles by using smocking techniques.
Key words: smocking techniques, articles, utility, respondents, design, most preferred.
________________________ _____________________
Signature of Major Advisor Signature of the Student
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eto Bz{ eZgV/ dh nB{e{bsk ns/ fJ;s/wkb d/ nkXko s/ ;G s'A tZX soihj fdZsh rJh. e[PB eto
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_________________ ________________
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CONTENTS
CHAPTER TITLE PAGE NO.
I INTRODUCTION 1-4
II REVIEW OF LITERATURE 5-15
III MATERIAL AND METHODS 16-21
IV RESULTS AND DISCUSSION 22-42
V SUMMARY 43-45
REFERENCES 46-49
APPENDICES i-vi
VITA
LIST OF TABLES
TABLE TITLE PAGE

NO. NO.
3.1 Codes assigned to the articles 18
4.1 Distribution of respondents according to their socio personal 23

profile
4.2 Distribution of the respondents according to their source of 24

awareness about smocking technique
4.3 Distribution of the respondents according to the articles made, 25

types of yarns, fabrics and colours used while practicing
smocking techniques
4.4 Preferences of the respondents for various utility articles 27
4.5 Preferences of the respondents for the fabric type to be used 28
4.6 Preferences of the respondents for the colour combinations of 29

fabric
4.7 Preferences of respondents for various fabric colours in utility 29

articles
4.8 Preferences of the respondents for various fabric designs 30
4.9 Preferences of respondents for various embellishments 31
4.10 Preferences of respondents for prepared articles on the basis of 34

suitability of fabric

design

colour

embellishments

overall impact

utility of articles
4.16 Distribution of respondents according to their opinion for the 38

utility articles developed by using smocking technique
4.17 Distribution of respondents according to their opinion for 40

suitability of quoted price
4.18 Assessment of percentage profit of the prepared articles 41

LIST OF FIGURES
FIGURE TITLE PAGE

NO. NO.
4.1 Awareness regarding smocking techniques among the respondents 24
4.2 Distribution of the respondents based on practicing smocking by them 25
4.3 Distribution of respondents according to their possession of articles 26

made by using smocking technique
4.4 Preferences of the respondents for the type of yarns to be used for 28
smocking technique
4.5 Preferences of respondents for various embellishments 30

LIST OF PLATES
PLATE TITLE
NO.
I Floral lace
II Woven lace
III Pom pom lace
IV Beaded lace
V Sequined lace
VI Lace with metallic thread
VII Floral sequins
VIII Silver beads
IX White beads
X Sequins
XI Tassels
XII Metallic sequins
XIII Article A1 Cushion cover
XIV Article A2 Pillow cover
XV Article A3 Bolster cover
XVI Article A4 Trimming for bedsheet
XVII Article A5 Curtain canopy
XVIII Article A6 Lampshade
XIX Article A7 Handbag
XX Article A8 Jewellery box
XXI Article A9 Folder
XXII Article A10 Footwear

CHAPTER I
INTRODUCTION
Art is the product of man's natural admiration for beauty awakened by what he sees,
feels, and experiences. There are various forms of art that involve utilization of imagination
and creativity. These forms require certain skills to create a work of art. Since ages man has
been decorating textiles using different techniques like printing, dyeing, painting, embroidery
etc. These embellishments add interest to the textile product. Among these techniques,
embroidery is the fascinating cloth art that involves the use of needles and thread (Bailey
2005).The art of embroidery has dated back throughout history with notable works of
embroidery prominent throughout the ages from countries like Ancient Egypt, India, China,
Persia and England (Bajaj 2011). As the trade developed, a greater variety of fabrics became
available and embroidery grew from simple to elaborate. Accordingly the changes came into
being form the ancient times to modern era (Garg 2010). This craftsmanship has its own
excellence, attracting people from all parts of the world. In the present fashion world,
embroidered pieces are preferred by most of the people. The use of various stitches, colours,
threads, application of stitches on different textures of the fabric to create masterpiece is the
beauty of embroidery (Naik 2012).
Embroidery was originally done by hand. It is basically done for decorative purposes
by sewing various types of materials into a layer of cloth or fabric to create patterns and
designs that are usually a reflection of the beauty of nature. It is ornamental needlework
applied to all varieties of fabrics and worked with many sorts of thread-linen, cotton, wool,
silk, gold, and even hair. Decorative objects, such as shells, feathers, beads, and jewels, are
often sewn to the embroidered piece. It is a laborious threadwork.
Smocking is decorative embroidery created by gathering a section of the fabric into tight
pleats and holding them together with parallel stitches. Smocking stitches are made using a
crewel embroidery needle (Bailey 2005). The type of working thread depends on the choice of
material to be smocked. A twisted thread gives the stitch more clarity. A silk thread is used
while sewing on silk and a cotton thread on cotton fabric. For a heavy material a bold thread
gives a colourful effect, but the advantage of stranded skein is that the number of strands can be
adjusted to the weight of material. A number of effects can be executed in various ways, by
change of stitch, pattern formation, as well as colour and shade combination, and added to the
type of material used will supplement the interest of the finished result (Cave 1965).
Smocking originated in England and has been practised since the middle ages (Cecilia
and Toth 1994). It is one of the oldest forms of fabric manipulation, the shaping of fabric with
pleats and stitches. In traditional smocking technique, the material had to be pleated before
smocking is worked out. Smocking is a handicraft; some would say an art form has been
passed down through generations. Hundreds of years ago, when construction of a garment
often began with rectangular pieces of fabric in various sizes, smocking was used to gather up
the fabric fullness at those points where fitting was necessary. The fabric was simply pleated
up and stitched decoratively to hold it to shape. Some of the earliest examples of smocked
clothing were undergarments worn by women and artists (Garg 2010). It is unusual among
embroidery methods as it was often worn by labourers. Other major embroidery styles were
purely decorative and represented status symbols, however Smocking was practical for
garments for both form fitting and flexibility. The word smock means a protective outer
cloth. Smocking was used most extensively in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries (Cecilia
and Toth 1994). It was worn solely by the labourer. The designs embroidered onto the
labourer‟s smock were an expression of living art and connected with tradition. The smock is
known to have been worn for both labour and leisure. Smocks were also worn on special
occasions such as wedding displaying a wealth of embroidery (Cave 1965). Historically,
smocking was also worked in pique, crepe de Chine, and cashmere(Cecilia and Toth 1994).
Other than in England, smocking can be traced back during Renaissance in Europe.
Many paintings form 14th and 15th centuries show men and women wearing smocked
garments. It appears to have been particularly popular in Italy and Germany. Smocking was
used on men‟s shirts and women‟s chemises. This was an adult style and at any rate
specialized children‟s clothes did not exist at that time. The term smocking, or related words
in continental languages, did not exist at that time. One smocking expert, Bethkatherine
Kaiman, belives that, “Italian shirring, which has its roots in basic running stitch, in my
opinion is a form of smocking all dressed up”. The modern term is obviously derived from
the smock, as the smock is a large shirt of over garment with the fullness controlled by pleats.
Embroidery was used to decorate these pleats and this decorative embroidey thus became
known as smocking (Garg 2010).
Early smocking, or gauging, was done by hand. Some embroiderers also made their
own guides using cardboard and an embroidery marking pencil. By 1880, iron-on transfer
dots were available and advertised in magazines such as Weldon's. The iron on transfers
places evenly spaced dots onto the wrong side of the fabric, which were then pleated using a
regular running stitch (Cecilia and Toth 1994).
When much fullness is needed, smocking is most successful on cotton and silk fabrics
which are firm but comparatively thin. Also, the technique requires lightweight fabric with a
stable weave that gathers well, therefore, cotton and silk are typical fibre choices. It is
sometimes used on woollens, but the effect is always bulky (Maill 1961).
Smocking is worked on in cotton or silk thread and normally requires three times the
width of initial material as the finished item will have. Fabric can be gathered into pleats in a
variety of ways. The evenness and regularity of smocking depend almost entirely upon the
same qualities in the preliminary gathering, so this must be carefully and unhurriedly done.
2
Series of dots are marked on the material, carefully measuring them with ruler or ironing it off
on the wrong side a smocking transfer, which consists of rows of dots ready spaced out
(Cecilia and Toth 1994).
Smocking is an embroidery technique used to gather fabric so that it can stretch.
Before elastic, smocking was commonly used in cuffs, bodices, and necklines in garments
where buttons were undesirable. These days, smocking has become very popular not just in
traditional form, but as an experimental technique for fibre artists and adventurous sewers
who enjoy creating one of a kind garments.
Smocking came to primarily textured decoration, but evolved out of a practical
sewing technique. The principle purpose of smocking is the practical one of holding pleats
together, but in a decorative way. Smocking can vary greatly and has various forms like
English or geometric smocking, American smocking, counterchange smocking, picture
smocking, continental smocking, grid smocking or Italian smocking. Early smocking was a
subtle play of light and dark on fabric. Modern smocking is more likely to be brightly colored
decorations (Garg 2010).
Smocking generally takes up three times as much as the final width required, but
different workers may use different stitch tensions (Liley 1970). It is not necessary to know a
great many stitches to start the needlework, a few basic stitches can also be used to make
many different effects (Pyman and Edwards 1984). Some smocking stitches tend to expand
more than others and this is taken into consideration while cutting the fabric. To work
smocking on a fabric, rows of regularly gauging gathers are taken across the fabric until the
required depth is reached. The gauging is generally worked from the back of the fabric. Long
stitches are worked on the back and very tiny stitches on the front. A variety of spacings may
be obtained as one may buy a dot transfer, according to the scale of work and the fabric one
intends to use. The transfer is carefully ironed so that dots run along the straight of grain.
Alternatively, it is also possible to mark dots with pencil on wrong side of the work, or, if the
texture of the fabric is suitable, one can count the threads between the stitches. There are
certain fabrics that are checked or have regular patterns that can be used as a guide for placing
and gauging the stitches. Each stitch is set directly under the same stitch in the row above and
the rows of stitching are same distance apart. The relative tightness or slackness of knots or
gathers is also important. A person who tends to sew tightly needs a slacker gathering and
vice versa.
A hand-made smocked article needs the time and patience to be spent on it and also
deserves additional thought and effort that a good finish demands. No amount of effective
ornamentation will be worthwhile without attention to the detail of neatening and fashioning
the raw edges. All this requires a certain amount of skill, knowledge and lots of patience
(Cave 1965).
3
The main, traditionally done, smocking stitches are stem, basket or cable, chevron or
wave and honeycomb, and patterns are built up of rows of these stitches. Honeycomb is the
most elastic of these stitches and may be worked on either right or wrong side. Bands of
stitching are worked across the gathers in simple geometric patterns. The finished smocking is
pressed and loose threads are withdrawn (Liley 1970).
In India, smocking has been used widely for children‟s garments like frocks, bibs,
scarves, skirts and ladies nightwear for last few decades, however, with changing times,
creative embroiderers and sewers have experimented a lot with the traditional technique. Now
a days, smocking forms without pleating are also making their place, with a slow pace, in the
market. These include English smocking, Lattice smocking, Lozenge patterned smocking and
Canadian smocking. These techniques allow the embroider to see the embroidery with a new
outlook and also add a lot to the variety.
Smocking is not only the legacy that has been handed down to us from the English
Peasant Smock; rather the ornamental stitchery worked on various fabrics is admirable
example of folk embroidery, both in stitch and design (Cave 1965).
Objectives:
1. To study the consumer preferences regarding type of articles, fabric, colours and
embellishments for the articles to be prepared with smocking technique.
2. To design and prepare the articles according to consumer preferences.
3. To study the cost effectiveness of the prepared articles.
Limitations of the study

1. The locale of the study was limited to Ludhiana city.
2. The size of the sample was limited to 90 respondents due to time constraint.
3. Only 20 designs and 10 articles were prepared in the study.
4
CHAPTER II
REVIEW OF LITERATURE
The present study was aimed at studying the consumers‟ preferences for utility
articles made by using smocking technique and developing of these articles on the basis of
their preferences. The chapter accounts for the relevant literature collected for the study. The
literature cited has been presented under the following headings:
2.1 Consumer preferences
2.2 Trends in embroidery
2.1 CONSUMER PREFERENCES

Embroidery is the technique of decorating fabric surface which always fascinate art
lovers. It is beautiful and unique way to embellish fabric and reflects the culture of different
places. Batish (1986) conducted a study on creative activities performed by rural homemakers
and found that women in Punjab have fairly sufficient time to spare for creative activities
including embroidery. The various factors affecting significantly the performance of creative
activities were found to be age, occupation and income of the women whereas education did
not affect significantly their use of time for creative activities. The homemakers felt that these
activities were income generating also and reasons for disliking these activities were shortage
of time and lack of appreciation. Gupta (1986) undertook a study on designing and weaving
of yokes. The purpose of the study was to weave yokes in various shapes by different
technique of needle weaving, using different coloured and textured yarns, which imparted a
novel and unusual appearance. A total of 10 yokes were woven. Opinions of 52 respondents
for these yokes were taken. The yoke with a hexagonal neckline and floral motifs scattered all
over got maximum ranking. The motifs were worked with interlacing and net effect was
obtained by knotting the warp and weft together. Naik and Phadhke (1994) developed a
technique for high relief appearance by needle weaving on fabric along with embroidery. An
effort was made to decorate the fabric with these new methods, which were more realistic and
different from existing styles or methods of decorating. Needle weaving with plain weave,
buttonhole stitch, pile, Turkish knot and with incorporation of different weaves was done. The
colour combination and overall effect produced by needle weaving on series of ridges were
appreciated by respondents and this piece was ranked first. The technique was appreciated by
the respondents. A study on development of new designs of Sindhi embroidery for
housewives for their personal and household use was carried out by Kaur (1997). The results
revealed that the five most preferred personal use articles to be embroidered with in Sindhi
embroidery were dupatta, suit, shawl, handkerchief and household use articles were cushion
cover, table cloth, bed cover, sofa back and pillow covers. About 20-81.5 percent profit can
be earned by Sindhi embroidery done for personal use articles and 29-49 percent for
household use articles. Jain (2003) conducted a research on Chutki work- a study on Rampur
appliqué embroidery. The motifs used for appliqué embroidery of Rampur were usually floral
and geometrical. To bring variety and newness 30 motifs were created. The best three ranked
motifs were used for creating multipurpose designs used in appliqué embroidery.
Embellishments like mukesh, sequins, beads and lace were used as accessories to enhance
beauty of the finished product. Appliqué embroidery is used on sarees, ladies suits,
bedcovers, gents‟s kurtas, tops, frocks and curtains. A study of the adda/karchob
embroideries for rural Chandigarh was conducted by Mamta in (2003), with a view to study
different types of embroideries i.e. ari, salma, bead, thread and gota-kinari and also to study
motifs, threads and accessories used for adda embroideries. Floral, bird, animal, religious
figures and geometrical motifs alongwith religious sign are commonly used. Cotton thread
(kacha sut), twisted and untwisted silk threads and metallic threads were used for
embroideries. For embellishment, different types of beads i.e. plastic, glass and wooden
beads, gota, gota patti, sitare, sequins, crystals, stones, mirrors, kundans and cowries were
used. Sunidhi (2004) undertook a study on development of decorative articles with finger
weaving technique. It was observed that most preferred designs for finger weaving were
stripes, diamond, diagonal lines with check, chevron and criss cross. The most preferred
colours were red, orange, brown and violet. Among the decorative articles respondents
preferred hair garter, wrist band, choker, lampshade, wall hanging, shoulder bag, door
hanging, multipurpose box, wrist pouch and hanging sculpture the most. Simple yarn of
cotton and acrylic were most preferred followed by rayon cords. In case of embellishments,
beads, mirrors, shells were preferred the most. Majority of respondents found the preferred
articles as innovative and unique. Cost effectiveness of the prepared articles was studied
which shows that it was possible to earn 20-30 percent profit with this technique. In another
study on income generating potential of macramé, Kaur (2007) observed that 52.5 percent
respondents possessed macramé articles, furthermore, 90 percent respondents were aware of
knots and only 33.33 percent practice at home. The respondents preferred to have wrist band,
bag, pot holder, wall hanging, belt, lamp shade, skirt, pair of earrings, necklace and door
chime as the ten most preferred articles. Square knot, square knot crossover, half knot, half
hitch knot and Josephine knot were the most preferred knots. Preferences of respondents
regarding prepared articles showed that, nylon cord purse made in red colour with square knot
was given first preference on the basis of suitability of yarn, design, colour and utility.
Depending upon the articles the entrepreneur can earn profit ranging from 13.63 to 15
percent. In a study conducted by Kaur (2011) on development of decorative articles using
card weaving technique, it was observed that most preferred designs were striped and spiral
designs while V- shaped was least preferred by the respondents. Majority of the respondents
preferred orange, blue, pink and white coloured yarns whereas grey and copper were least
6
preferred. Beads, crystals, laces and kundans were most preferred embellishments while
metallic bells and fringes were least preferred embellishments. Singla (1998) undertook a
research to study the adoption of kasuti embroidery for contemporary uses. Nine designs were
embroidered on the articles of household and personal use. Traditional motifs were selected
which were then modified according to the articles. Then consumer preferences for prepared
articles were taken. It was observed that kasuti embroidery resembled the chope embroidery
of Punjab. Grewal (2002) conducted the study on the consumer preferences for innovative
articles made by durrie weaving techniques. Consumer preferences for raw materials, motifs,
design and colour combinations for innovative articles made by durrie weaving technique
were taken. Eight different innovative articles were designed and prepared. The commercial
viability of these articles was also studied. It was reported that durrie weaving technique can
also be used for the crafting of new decorative designs and articles and it holds lots of
commercial potential. Dhir (1997) created motifs inspired form Madhubani paintings to
develop border design, central design, corner design and all over design by combining
selected motifs. The selected designs were painted on khaddar casement and twenty motifs in
each category were made. Only five colours were used i.e. red, magenta, yellow, green and
ultra marine blue. These designs were evaluated by judges and selected designs were painted
with fabric colours on khaddar casement with the same colour scheme. Kaur (2004)
conducted a study on development of innovative articles by reuse of jute fabric. It was found
that cross stitch was the most preferred embroidery stitch and hence was given first rank. It
was most preferred by respondents because they find it easy to do and suitable for jute fabric
as jute fabric was loosely woven. Chain stitch was assigned the second rank followed by
shadow work and herring bone stitch. Satin stitch was least preferred by the respondents.
Sahni and Phadke (1995) conducted a study on card weaving. Eighteen samples representing
different structures were woven. The ready samples were displayed to the fifty clothing and
textiles major students to take responses from them about their awareness of the prepared
samples and their utility. The respondents stated that they were aware of card weaving and
plain weave structures but had never seen so many variations created by card weaving. The
respondents liked fine mercerized yarns and rayon yarns the most. About utility, the bands
were counted for endless uses such as necklaces, hair bands, ribbons, trimmings, waist bands,
bag handles and mats etc. On the whole, the utility list is endless. Thus, the work was found
to be very innovative and had a great income generating potential besides helping in
satisfying one‟s creative urge. Barua and Gogoi (1997) conducted a study on handloom
fabrics. Eight jackets were prepared from the collected handloom textile pieces of Assam
along with embellishments. Prepared jackets were shown to hundred respondents and their
opinions were taken. The respondents reported the work as creative and attractive. From the
study, it has been found that consumers were ready to pay more than the estimated cost. It
7
was concluded that comparatively more money can be earned from handloom fabrics by
making garments and innovative articles rather than selling it in fabric form. The study
revealed that there is not only a great scope to provide employment opportunities to the rural
people by establishing small scale garment industry based on these handloom fabrics, but
also, there is tremendous opportunity to commercialize these fabrics. Lele (2001) conducted a
study on designing and weaving of wall hangings depicting various landscapes. Information
pertaining to different types of wall hangings was obtained by visiting shops and hostels. It
was found that the wall hangings used were woven, woven and embroidered, embroidered,
painted and printed. Using the components of landscapes in each category i.e. fieldscapes,
skyscapes and waterscapes were designed by computer applications and made into wall
hangings using two harness loom. Different weaving techniques and colours were
incorporated to create different textural and structural variations. Out of three categories
fieldscapes were judged the best followed by skyscapes and waterscapes. The techniques
were appreciated and work was found to be innovative and unique. Kaur et al (2000)
conducted a survey in Ludhiana city to study the preferences of mother regarding hand knitted
garments, the kind of knitting yarns used, its colour, texture, design and type of decorations
preferred by them in knitted garments. Various knitted garments were prepared for toddlers
and commercial viability of these was studied. The result revealed that cream cardigan with
doll motif was given the first preference on the basis of design and overall impact. Majority of
the respondents preferred to by the articles at price calculated by adding 30 percent profit to
the cost price. Bhatnagar (2003) conducted an exploratory study on preferences of women
regarding Kantha embroidered articles, it revealed that while buying the Kantha embroidered
articles, majority of respondents preferred workmanship the most followed by comfort,
durability, price, colour fastness, wrinkle resistance, occasion and season. In case of various
features considered while buying the Kantha embroidered articles, majority of the respondents
preferred intricacy of design/motif the most, followed by colour combination, suitability of
fabric according to use, other material used and suitability of thread. Mahale and Kulloli
(1999) in their study revealed that most of the respondents preferred cotton material for
furnishings followed by corduroy. About 62 percent of respondents purchased the furnishing
material from retail shops followed by 50 percent from government shops. Further 86 percent
of respondents considered quality followed by colour combination, price, design, intended
care, fashion texture, fibre content and drape as order of preference while purchasing the
furnishing materials. Mathur and Hira (2002) reported that the household textile industry is
regionalized; the tastes and preferences of consumers vary depending upon their culture, their
interests and likings, and geographical area. Hence the end product varies considerably with
respect to design, style, size and performance as substitution for natural fibres continues,
8
demand for synthetic products would accelerate due to the rapidly expanding markets in the
developing countries.
1.2 TRENDS IN EMBROIDERY
Bradbury (2005) reported that embroidery is the art or handicraft of decorating
fabric or other materials with needle and thread or yarn. Embroidery may also incorporate
other materials such as metal strips, pearls, beads, quills, and sequins. Embroidery is most
often recommended for caps, hats, coats, blankets, dress shirts, denim, stockings, and golf
shirts. Embroidery is available with a wide variety of thread or yarn color. A characteristic of
embroidery is that the basic techniques or stitches of the earliest work-chain stitch, buttonhole
or blanket stitch, running stitch, satin stitch, cross stitch-remain the fundamental techniques of
hand embroidery today. Machine embroidery, arising in the early stages of the industrial
revolution, mimics hand embroidery, especially in the use of chain stitches, but the satin stitch
and hemming stitches of machine work rely on the use of multiple threads and resemble hand
work in their appearance, not their construction. Anonymous (2012) mentioned that
embroidery is a means for creating richly decorated textiles with a threaded needle. It can be a
relaxing and rewarding hobby, allowing one to create beautiful, uniquely decorated garments,
accessories or items for the home. Bajaj (2011) was in view that the art of embroidery is an
old traditional type of business. An embroidery company will often take a lot of efforts for
focussing on customer needs and being professional, and also to provide fast and efficient
service. Originally, embroidery started out as a handicraft, decorating their clothing with a
needle and thread but then grew over the years into a profitable industry. Chattopadhya
(1985) was of the view that Indian embroidery has few equals in richness and wide range of
varieties for each region has its own special style and stitch. Embroidery in India has been the
prerogative for women. This leads it to have a creative significance and give it a special place
in our crafts and lives. Although it is essentially domestic and feminine art, yet most of it is
followed by men. It does not require any special but only aesthetic skill and sensitivity. This
art can have endless variety with fresh and existing results. In thousand of our villages, this art
is being nurtured by the loving hands of women and men and is fed by their passion for
colour. Morrell (1994) stated that though certain stitches are common to embroidery, local
tradition has meant that regions have developed their own types and styles. The Muslim and
Hindu religions have a powerful effect on the motifs and colours used in their work. Some
embroidery processes are unique to India and, at times, the skill of the embroiderers and the
overall standard of the workmanship has been superb. The practice of embroidery has not
been restricted by caste and location, artefacts being produced in a variety of techniques and
materials, both for the rich at court and for the poor in the villages. As was the case in the
past, specific techniques still generally relate to a particular region. All the traditional skills
and designs have by no means been lost, but the materials used may have changed; for
9
instance, many manmade fabrics and threads are in use today. Each region still has its own
identity, based on its dominant religion, patterns, cultural traditions and market requirements.
The export trade has harnessed the innate skill of the Indian craftsman, and techniques and
styles have been adapted for foreign markets. Gandotra (1988) conducted a study on historic
prospect of Kashmir embroideries. She found out that embroidery was done both by males
and females with males in large number. They embroider articles of apparel and household
use. Embroidery was mainly done on woollen, silk, linen and terrycot material with motifs
like floral and birds. Woollen and silk thread with various number of stitches were used by
them. There had been various changes in the embroidery and in colours and types of threads
used. Wani (1980) conducted a research on the floor coverings manufactured in Kashmir. The
study revealed that namdas were made in chain stitch with the help of hook needle. The work
was called Jalakdozi. Natural flora and fauna motifs were used to make Theridar, Butakar,
Chinar leaf, Bu-Ibuldar, Badambar, Double badami, Yamberzel, Chelvum, Larvum,
Sumerkand, Guldar, Shikargah, Janardhan designs. Single or double ply wool of red, green,
brown, pink, black and crimson colours were used on an off white background. A study was
carried on the embroidery of Kutch by Kamboj in (1990) and according to the result, the
embroidery was mostly being done by women. They embroider articles of personal wear and
home decoration. Khadi or Poplin were mostly used as base fabrics and cotton or silk threads
were used for embroidery. Natural motifs were used in abundance along with birds and
animals motifs. Changes have come over the years with respect to quality of embroidery,
motifs and threads. In a study Jain (1993) conducted a study on Chindi durries of Fatehpur
Sikri, with a view to study origin and development of Chindi durries, its raw material, type of
motifs and colours used. The study revealed that colour combination used by weavers was
very pleasing and light weight Chindi durries were woven with simple geometrical motifs.
The raw material used for weaving of durries was textile waste form mills. Simple cotton ply
yarn was used for warp and rags were used for weft. Joshi (1986) studied Gujrat embroidery
in Rann of Kutch area of Gujrat where the work is characterized by concentric rows of fine
chain stitch which fills in the motifs. The Kutch chain stitch is done with the help of an arhi.
The fabric is held taut and the thread is introduced from below. Kathiawad embroidery is the
oldest of these and also the most vigorous and prolific, covering a wide range of articles. In
this the base fabric is usually blue, black or orange coloured and the theme of embroidery
comprises of local legends and mythology. The Barmer embroidery of Rajasthan also known
as bead or mirror work is a part of cottage industry where the beads or mirrors are worked
with the help of needle and thread on the fabric (Bhargawa and Mathur 1987). The articles
embroidered are hand fans, table covers, cushion covers, seat covers used on camels and
horses. Apparels like skirts and veils are also gorgeously embroidered. The fabric used is
locally woven and dyed. Colours used are dark such as red, maroon and black. The designs
10
are copied from the nature such as flowers, figures and geometrical patterns. Thread used is
untwisted cotton and silk. Main stitches used are Mocha, Kahtnehair, Kark and Ranibandh.
Embroidered articles are exported to UK, USA and Japan. Grewal and Grewal (1988)
reported that the Himachal embroidery is usually done on the unbleached cotton of two types
one is light weight cambric like material and other is hand spun and hand woven khaddar.
The designs were traced by spreading the fabric on a flat surface and mixture of oil and ink is
rubbed over it. The untwisted silk floss called Patt is the thread used for the embroidery. The
motifs used in the embroidery included a variety of animal and bird motifs and some purely
decorative motifs depending on the theme. A series of motifs and design related to the life of
Lord Krishna are very popular motifs of the embroidery. Aggarwal and Paul (1991) undertook
an investigation on chikankari of Lucknow. It was reported that all sorts of articles were being
embroidered. These included suits, sarees, dupattas and a few utility items like
handkerchieves, table cloths, duchess sets, napkins and bed covers. The base materials used
were organdie, rubia, muslin, voile, casement, artificial silk and American georgette. As
compared to dark colours light colours were preferred for this embroidery. Popularly used
stitches were herring bone, French knot, button hole, back, stem and satin stitch. Among
designs foliage and floral design were made, commonly used motifs were circles, curved
lines, straight lines and birds. The most popular was peacock, elephant and mango motif.
Even though the very intricate embroidery of olden days was not being done now, the
products still retained their artistic value. A study on Zardozi work of Agra was conducted by
Dhaliwal (1991). It was found that the embroidery was mostly done on purses, wall panels,
caps, belts, jewellery boxes and broaches. It was done on materials like velvet, tissue,
terrycot, silk and synthetics. Commonly used motifs were birds, animals and floral motifs.
The most popular amongst these were peacock and TajMahal. Main stitches being used were
satin, long and short, laid or couching and chain stitch. The changes that had taken place over
the years in the embroidery were threads, base materials and colours used. Kapoor (1994)
conducted a study on Kanthas of Bengal. It elicited that Kantha had undergone many changes
over the last few years. The quality of embroidery had improved. Earlier white or cream was
used but now, coloured fabrics were also being used. Besides cotton threads, silken twisted
threads were also being used. Stitches used were various forms of running stitch, herring
bone, chain, stem and back stitch as in the earlier times, the embroidered articles were
restricted to bed covers, ceremonial wraps, covering for comb and mirror for the personal use
but now the production is for commercial purpose. Mookerjee (1996) is of opinion that
Kanthas are embroidered with words of love and good wishes and sometimes even the name
of the embroider was embroidered alongwith the design. Each Kantha is a human document,
telling the tale of the embroiderers‟ patient work and love of beauty. The results of the study
conducted by Goel (1995) on Sindhi embroidery in rural and urban areas of Patiala revealed
11
that the interlacing stitch known as Sindhi Taropa is used for the work. Its basic structure is
built up with the use of long threads stitched into the surface and the entire structure of the
stitch is built up by interlacing threads. For this embroidery cotton, silk, cotton-silk, terrycot
fabric were preferred as base material of colours red, blue, yellow, green, pink and lemon.
Threads preferred by the embroiderer were made of rayon. Varughese (1986) in her study on
Dharwad Kasuti found that embroidery was mainly done by women of age group of 15 to 75
and majority of them preferred handwoven cloth of dark colour. Silk threads of various
colours were preferred to cotton coloured threads. These threads were usually picked from the
tassels of a new saree. Main article of embroidery was wall hanging. Motifs preferred were
tulsi plant, fruits, cashew nut and mango. Among flowers, the lotus was seen in all the
embroideries. Carter and Clucas (1982) reported that some embroidery is purely decorative,
an attractive design is worked on a plain piece of material to add ornament. But embroidery
may also be an end in itself as in the creating of embroidered panel pictures; then it becomes a
form of art as well as being a craft. As a hobby, it has many advantages over other crafts. For
one thing it requires very little equipment. Also quite a lot of hand embroidery is worked in
small pieces which can easily be carried around, or can be worked at in odd moments. In hand
embroidery there are a great many stitches that have been evolved over the generations. Some
of these are very simple in themselves and are quickly learned. Others are slightly more
complicated and need to be executed with great precision to get the desired effect. But this is
merely a matter of practice. It is often in the combination of quite simple stitches that the
greatest effect is achieved. Though the sewing machine is now much used for embroidery, it
can only achieve certain effects. It does not set out to copy hand embroidery rather it creates
an extra dimension. Skill in machine embroidery comes with time and practice. But once
mastered it has the added advantage of being able to be executed far more quickly than an
intricate piece of hand embroidery. Smocking is a special favorite for children‟s clothes, as,
like all peasant craft is essentially childlike. Also it has a great deal of elasticity, and smocked
garments readily stretch as child grows. It also has fashion appeal for dresses and blouses. As
much fullness is needed, smocking is very much successful on fabrics which are firm but
comparatively thin such as voile and some of the synthetic materials. It is sometimes used on
woolens, but the effect then is always rather bulky, and should be employed only for narrow
decorative panels rather than right across a dress front. Anonymous (2013) reported that
construction of the smock was very economical in mid 17th century. The pieces were either
squares or rectangles, no fabric was wasted. Stitches used were variations of feather stitch,
chain, satin and stem stitch. Stitches on the smocked panel were cable, outline and stem stitch.
Threads were usually linen. Smocking is a centuries-old form of needlework consisting of
surface embroidery stitches worked over gathered fabric. The smocking stitches serve a dual
purpose: first as a decorative element, executed in simple or complex combinations. Second,
12
they perform a specific function, holding each pleat in place, yet allowing elasticity of the
gathered area. This elasticity is the result of the unique formation sequence of smocking
stitches. It is this characteristic which sets smocking apart from any other type of embroidery.
True smocking stitches are done only by hand. Currently, the pleating is most often done by a
machine designed specifically for the purpose. But before the pleater was invented in the
1940‟s, all pleating was done by hand. Although most smocking is used on clothing,
contemporary applications are also possible in the form of home decorator items, holiday
decorations, accessories, soft sculpture and abstract fibre art. Anonymous (2009) reported that
smocking is a decorative means of gathering a wide piece of material into a required
measurement. Because of its beautiful appearance, simplicity and usefulness, smocking has
become very popular for use on lingerie, children‟s wear and many other articles. Martin
(2014) mentioned that hand smocking is gathering a series of pleats into a pattern with
stitches. It's a type of embroidery that adds a handmade touch to the project. There are two
types of smocking, regular and English. Regular smocking is marked on the right side of the
fabric, while English is marked on the wrong side. English smocking is easier for beginners
because one pre-gathers the fabric. Smocking stitches are worked from one dot to the next, so
it's important that marking are done accurately for a precise pattern. Clabburn and Collins
(1990) mentioned that smocking designs to depict various items connected with the wearer‟s
trade were embroidered on the plain pieces and also on collars and cuffs, in simple feather,
stem and chain stitch. A variety of these smocks can be seen in most museums. As the years
passed, more materials were manufactured and men discarded their smocked frocks for
readymade suits. The smocking stitch was then adapted with most charming results to the
decoration of ladies‟ and children‟s garments, and is still in great demand wherever any
fullness in required, transforming a plain piece of material into an article of beauty which lasts
from one generation to another. A little thought and imagination used in embroidering the
collar and cuffs of a dress or decorating underwear will give that little extra something to
goods bought in a chain store, and a colourful embroidered belt will work wonders for a plain
dark-coloured dress; while church embroideries offer scope for the more ambitious
needlewomen to show her skill and artistry. According to Eden (2013), hand smocking
requires a just few basic tools, fabric, needle, and thread. Lightweight woven fabrics such as
linen and cotton are the easiest to gather and smock. The gathering or pleating step required
before smocking can be done either by hand or machine. When gathering fabric by hand, the
easiest method is the use of iron-on transfer dots, which place evenly spaced marks on the
wrong side of the fabric that can then be gathered using a running stitch. Dots can also be
done by hand. Leslie (2007) reported that there are several lesser known variations of
smocking including lattice, counterchange, picture and grid smocking. Lattice smocking
technique is not as elastic as English smocking and is often used to decorate velvet cushions
13
and clothing. Counterchange smocking is worked on even check or striped fabric. Like in
American smocking, the lines of fabric are used as guides, but rather than creating a
geometric pattern, counterchange smocking results in solid bands or blocks. In picture
smocking, the pleats are drawn very tightly on the back side to help stabilize the pleats and
prevent distortion. The picture is then embroidered on the front in parallel rows of stitches
that create solid shapes and figures. According to Anonymous (2001) English smocking is a
form of embroidery that is worked on fabric that has been pleated. Using a pleating machine
i.e. pleater is the quickest & most popular method of gathering the fabric into these pleats. If
no pleater is available, iron-on-dots can be used as a guide for sewing the gathering threads by
hand, but these dots are sometimes hard to find. With knowledge of only a few basic stitches,
a beginner can create a large variety of geometric designs. Even the more advanced technique
of picture smocking is simply stacking rows of the most basic stitch--the cable--one on top of
the other, creating large areas of colour that are shaped into figures. Kaiman (2010-2011) was
in view that English Smocking is embroidery on pleats that have been pleated before
smocking. North American Smocking, forms the pleats while embroidering. There is a slight
difference in look between them but the English Smocking is more versatile as pleats can
readily form into round shapes whereas the North American style are conformed to a rigid
grid as there are no pleating threads to shape the piece. It is an art form whose origin has been
obscured in history but has been handed down from generation to generation much like the
sagas, songs and myths, however its roots are traceable to a point through looking at the art of
the past and specifically at the stitchery on the clothing. It can be seen in paintings from the
Italian and German Renaissance, smocking on mens' shirts and ladies' chemises. Italian
Shirring has its roots in the basic running stitch, is created by leaving the pleating threads in
making them an integral part of the design. It is seen today in the experiments that some
contemporary English Smocking designers have done with back-smocking. The style evolved
from smocking on gingham, is called counter change smocking where you use striped fabric,
gingham or dotted fabrics are used, and mark where you place your stitches. Another style is
known as Lattice Smocking which is familiar to smocked pillows. This technique is worked
on the backside of the fabric creating the unique and consistent folds on the front. Lattice
Smocking is gaining acceptance as a way to embellish fabric on sleeves and bodice fronts,
especially in the heavier fabrics such as velvet and velveteen. Singer (2014) revealed that
American smocking is worked entirely on the reverse of the fabric and creates a dense
puckered design on the front of the fabric. Traditionally the design is marked out as a series of
dots, but a grid is much more effective. The grid can be transferred to the reverse of the fabric
using any of the marking methods, including iron-on transfer, vanishing pen or tailor‟s chalk.
It may be helpful to transfer the markings from the chart as well as the grid. According to
Shore (2013), North American or Canadian smocking is a way of creating texture by marking,
14
pinching and stitching over grids or dots to form a pattern. Its results can be used to decorate a
variety of projects. This type of smocking was popular in the 1950s and 60s. A fluid drapery
fabric that can keep its shape is preferred. Satin, crepe, cotton, chambray and recycled denim
can also be used for contemporary effect. The smocking work will be best reflected in plain
fabrics, although woven gingham or stripes can also give good results. Cantrell (2013)
reported that counterchange smocking requires a grid which can be drawn with a water
soluble pen but it takes lots of time and measuring. One can use stripes which give the vertical
part of the grid but in this case, one has to draw the horizontal lines. The easiest way is to use
a checked fabric as no preparation or marking is required before working out the stitches.
It is evident from the above cited review that the smocking technique was very
popular in mid of 20th century and was often worked on bodices and yokes. A number of
studies have been conducted on smocking techniques and its beauty and delicacy has always
been appreciated, however no study has been conducted to use smocking designs on utility
articles, therefore this study carries the way forward and incorporates innovative smocking
ideas into utility articles.
15
CHAPTER III
MATERIALS AND METHODS
The present study was undertaken to develop the utility articles using smocking
techniques on the basis of consumers‟ preferences for articles, yarns, colours and
embellishments. Also, the cost effectiveness of the prepared articles was studied. The chapter
deals with the methodology employed in the investigation under the following heads:
3.1 Locale of the study
3.2 Research design
3.2.1 Survey
3.2.1.1 Selection of respondents
3.2.1.2 Preparation of first interview schedule
3.2.1.3 Pretesting and collection of data
3.2.1.4 Selection of articles to be developed
3.2.2 Preparation of articles
3.2.2.1 Cutting the fabrics
3.2.2.2 Marking of patterns on the fabrics
3.2.2.3 Smocking on the fabrics
3.2.2.4 Stitching of articles
3.2.3 Determination of cost effectiveness of the prepared articles
3.2.3.2 Preparation of second interview schedule
3.2.3.3 Assessment of cost effectiveness of prepared articles
3.3 Tabulation and Analysis of data
3.4 Operational Definitions
3.1 LOCALE OF THE STUDY

The present study was conducted in Ludhiana city because of the easy accessibility of
the respondents to the investigator. The survey was carried out in three randomly selected
localities which included Model Town, Kitchlu Nagar and Urban Estate of Ludhiana city.
3.2 RESEARCH DESIGN
3.2.1 Survey
A survey was carried out in order to know the preferences of respondents
regarding the most preferred articles, yarns, colours and embellishments to be used for
smocking. An interview schedule was employed to study the socio-personal profile of the
respondents and their preferences for various utility articles to be developed by using
smocking techniques.
3.2.1.1 Selection of sample and Sample size
From each of the selected localities, thirty female respondents between 20 to 40 years
of age were selected randomly to make a total of ninety respondents for the survey. This
particular age group was selected as women in this age group are generally involved in
homemaking activities and also, are receptive to new innovative ideas.
3.2.1.2 Preparation of first interview schedule
An interview schedule was prepared to obtain the relevant information from the
respondents regarding various utility articles prepared by using smocking technique. Personal
interviews are very much feasible because the respondents may have been ignorant about
certain terms used in research instruments. These terms can be well explained through face to
face interaction; hence this technique of data collection encourages the better results. The
interview schedule was divided into three parts:
The first part dealt with the background information of the respondents which
included age, educational status, occupation of the respondents, occupation of the family, type
of family and monthly income. The second part of schedule was aimed at getting the
information regarding consumers‟ awareness and possession of smocked articles. The third
part was aimed at knowing their preferences regarding the various types of articles, yarns,
colours and embellishments.
3.2.1.3 Pretesting and Collection of Data
After the formation of interview schedule and before its actual administration to the
respondents, pre-testing was done to gain an insight into various problems which investigator
was likely to face during the data collection. The interview schedule was pretested on 20
respondents from non-sampled area. Necessary modifications were done to make the
interview schedule relevant for data collection. Then the investigator personally interviewed
the respondents for collecting data.
3.2.1.4 Selection of Designs
On the basis of preferences given by respondents for various utility articles and
colours, the investigator developed two designs for each of ten most preferred articles.
Therefore, a total of twenty designs were sketched (Appendix III) and shown to a panel of
judges that included faculty members and PG students from the Department of Apparel and
Textile Science and Department of Family Resource Management. On the basis of the
rankings given by judges, the most preferred design for each article was selected for
development. The ten articles selected for preparation with smocking technique included
cushion cover, pillow cover, bolster cover, trimming for bedsheet, curtain canopy, lampshade,
handbag, jewellery box, folder and footwear. The developed articles were given different
code numbers.
17
Table 3.1 Codes assigned to the articles
Name of the article Article code
Cushion cover A1
Pillow cover A2
Bolster cover A3
Trimming for bedsheet A4
Curtain canopy A5
Lampshade A6
Handbag A7
Jewellery box A8
Folder A9
Footwear A10
3.2.2 Prepartion of articles

3.2.2.1 Cutting the fabrics: Fabrics were selected for each of the article and then cutting
was done according to the final measurements required. A little extra length or width of the
fabric was kept (according to the smocking stitch to be used) while cutting the fabric. In
general, if smocking is done after pleating the fabric, it consumes almost three times the
actual fabric, however if it is done without pleating, it takes two times of actual fabric inside
the stitches.
3.2.2.2 Marking of patterns on the fabrics: According to the placement and measurement
of area to be smocked, markings in the form of square boxes were done on the fabrics by
using pencil, ball pen or coloured sketch pen. On the fabrics, where pen or pencil could not
be used, squares of uniform size were printed on the wrong side by using a light colour. The
corners of these square boxes were then filled with the smocking pattern to be developed for
respective articles.
18
A pattern for smocking
3.2.2.3 Smocking on the fabrics: Smocking was done with thread colour matching to the
fabric. Double thread was taken in crewel needle and stitches were made on the fabric
according to the pattern. Smocking stitches include pulling of thread at one point, generally at
one corner of a square and usually ending at the same point after stretching one or two more
corners of the same square. The thread pulling pattern may vary depending on the smocking
pattern and design to be achieved.
1. 2.
3. 4.
Smocking on a fabric
19
3.2.2.4 Stitching: After the smocking was done, fabrics were rechecked for required
measurements. Minor adjustments were made here by increasing or decreasing smocked area,
or cutting a short length of fabric in order to suit the required specifications of articles. After
this, articles were stitched separately by using single needle lock stitch machine or by hand, as
suited for various articles. The embellishments like beads and laces were applied on the
stitched articles.
Ten articles with various smocked designs were developed. The ready articles were then
shown to the respondents for taking their responses.
3.2.3 Determination of cost effectiveness of prepared articles
Cost effectiveness of prepared articles was determined by using the second interview
schedule to study the preferences of respondents for smocked articles and the per centage
profit for each of the articles was calculated. Following steps were followed for this purpose:
To determine the cost effectiveness of the articles prepared with the smocked
technique, a sub sample of 45 respondents was selected randomly from the already selected
ninety respondents.
3.2.3.2 Preparation of second interview schedule
Another interview schedule was aimed to study the preferences of the respondents for
the smocked articles on the basis of suitability of fabric, design, colour, embellishments,
overall impact and utility. The cost effectiveness of the prepared articles was studied, by
asking the respondents to give the average selling price for each of the prepared articles.
3.2.3.3 Assessment of cost effectiveness
To assess the cost effectiveness of the prepared articles, the cost price of each article
was calculated by considering the cost of designing and cost of raw materials used. The
labour cost and fabric wastage was also considered in order to calculate the accurate price.
The value of each article known as quoted price, was calculated by adding 30 per cent profit
to the cost price of each article. The respondents were then asked to give a suitable price for
buying the particular articles (average selling price) in order to assess the per centage profit
for each article. The following formula was used for the same:
Average selling price – Cost price
Per cent profit= X 100
Cost price
3.3 TABULATION AND ANALYSIS OF DATA

The data collected by using interview schedule was coded, tabulated and analyzed.
Frequencies and simple percentages were calculated to obtain the background information of
the respondents and information regarding articles possessed. Weighed mean scores were
calculated by giving maximum marks to the first preference and minimum marks to the last
20
preference and then multiplying the number of respondents with the marks for that particular
rank and finally, summing up of the marks was done. In this way, scores for various items
were calculated and the item with maximum scores was given rank one and so on to get the
preferences of the respondents for various parameters of utility articles made by using
The data were analyzed by using Z-test.
a) Z-test for single mean
x
z=
/ n
Where,
x = Average selling price

= Cost price
= Standard Deviation for average selling price
n = Sample size
b) Z-test for single proportion

p 0 .5
z=
PQ
n
Where,
p = Proportion of respondents considering suitability of quoted price as high
n = 45 (No. of respondents)
P = 0.5
Q = 1-P
3.4 OPERATIONAL DEFINITIONS

1. Cost price: Price that includes the cost of designing, cost of raw materials used, cost of
labour and wastage of fabrics used.
2. Quoted price: The price calculated by adding 30 per cent profit to the cost price of each
article.
3. Average selling price: The average selling price was worked out on the basis of suitability of
the quoted price to the respondents at which they were willing to buy the article.
21
CHAPTER IV
RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
The data pertaining to the present study entitled, “Contemporary use of smocking
techniques for development of utility articles” were coded, tabulated, analyzed and have been
presented in this chapter. The results of the study have been discussed under the following
categories:
4.1 Socio-Personal profile of respondents
4.2 Awareness about smocking technique
4.3 Details of smocked articles possessed by the respondents
4.4 Preferences of respondents for utility articles
4.5 Details of smocked articles
4.6 Preferences of respondents regarding prepared articles
4.7 Assessment of cost effectiveness of the prepared articles
4.1 SOCIO-PERSONAL PROFILE OF RESPONDENTS

The socio-personal profile of the respondents included age, educational status,
occupation of the respondents, occupation of the family, type of the family and monthly
income of the family. The details of the information related to this have been furnished in
table 4.1
The findings showed that 38.89 per cent respondents belonged to the age group of
35-40 years, 26.67 per cent were between 30-35 years, 22.22 per cent respondents belonged to
age group of 25-30 years, while only 12.22 per cent of respondents were between 20-25 years
of age group.
The results regarding education showed that 53.33 per cent of respondents were
secondary educated followed by 35.56 per cent of the respondents who were post graduate.
Only 11.11 per cent of respondents were graduate.
An insight into the occupation of the respondents revealed that majority (63.33%) of
the respondents were housewives, 22.22 per cent of the respondents were in service, 12.22 per
cent were students, and only 2.22 per cent of them were involved in business.
Regarding occupation of respondents‟ family, it was observed that 60 per cent of
respondents were from service families and rest 40 per cent belonged to business families.
None of the respondent belonged to agricultural family.
22
Table 4.1 Distribution of respondents according to their socio personal profile
(n=90)
Socio Personal Profile f %
Age (Years)
20-25 11 12.22
25-30 20 22.22
30-35 24 26.67
35-40 35 38.89
Educational status
Below graduation 48 53.33
Graduate 10 11.11
Post graduate 32 35.56
Occupation of the respondents
Housewife 57 63.33
Service 20 22.22
Business 2 2.22
Student 11 12.22
Occupation of the family
Service 54 60.00
Business 36 40.00
Type of family
Joint 12 13.33
Nuclear 78 86.67
Monthly Income of the family (in `)
10,000-50,000 62 68.89
50,000-1,00,000 24 26.67
1,00,000-2,00,000 4 4.44
f - frequency % - percentage
Majority of the respondents (86.67%) belonged to the nuclear families while rest of
the respondents (13.33%) were from joint families.
Monthly income of 68.89 per cent respondents‟ families ranged between `10,000-
50,000, while 26.67 per cent had monthly income between `50,000-1,00,000 followed by
4.44 per cent of the respondents having monthly income above `1,00,000-2,00,000.
23
4.2 AWARENESS ABOUT SMOCKING TECHNIQUE
This section of the chapter deals with the awareness of the respondents regarding
4.2.1 Awareness about smocking
(n=90)
Aware Not aware
48.89%
51.11%
Fig 4.1 Awareness regarding smocking techniques among the respondents
Data revealed that 51.11 per cent of the respondents were not aware of smocking
technique while 48.89 per cent of them were aware of it (Fig 4.1).
4.2.2 Source of awareness about smocking technique

Table 4.2 Distribution of the respondents according to their source of awareness about
smocking technique (n=44)*
Source of Awareness f %
Family members/friends 10 22.73
Books 10 22.73
Magazines 15 34.09
Practical knowledge 10 22.73
Display at shops 30 68.18
*Multiple response f - frequency
It is evident from the data in table 4.2 that 68.18 per cent of the respondents had seen
smocking work in display at shops, 34.09 per cent of them got to know from magazines,
while an equal percentage (22.73%) of the respondents knew about smocking technique from
family members or friends, from books and had practical knowledge.
24
4.2.3 Practicing smocking at home (n=44)
Never Practiced smocking Practiced smocking
45.45%
54.55%
Fig 4.2 Distribution of the respondents based on practicing smocking by them
Fig 4.2 shows that majority of the respondents (54.55%) had never practiced
smocking at home, although they were aware of it, while 45.45 per cent of the respondents
had practiced it at home. The reasons for not practicing were shortage of time and lack of
interest.
4.2.4 Details of articles developed by the respondents by using smocking technique
Table 4.3 Distribution of the respondents according to the articles made, types of yarns,
fabrics and colours used while practicing smocking techniques (n=20)
f %
Articles made
Frock 14 70.00
Nightwear 6 30.00
Yarns used
Cotton (embroidery thread) 4 20.00
Silk (embroidery thread) 3 15.00
Polyester 13 65.00
Fabric used
Cotton 17 85.00
Synthetic 3 15.00
Fabric Colour used
Red 3 15.00
Blue 7 35.00
Pink 4 20.00
Yellow 2 10.00
White 2 10.00
Green 2 10.00
25
Data showed that 70 per cent of the respondents worked smocking stitches on frocks,
while 30 per cent of the respondents did it on nightwear. Majority of the respondents (65%)
used polyester yarn followed by 20 and 15 per cent of the respondents who used cotton and
silk yarn respectively while practicing smocking.
Findings reveal that 85 per cent of the respondents used cotton fabrics while
practicing smocking, while only 15 per cent of the respondents used synthetic fabrics. Data
showed that 35 per cent of the respondents used blue coloured fabrics while practicing
smocking, 20 per cent used pink coloured fabrics, 15 per cent used red coloured fabrics, and
equal percentage of respondents (10%) used yellow, white and green coloured fabrics while
practicing smocking.
None of the respondents used embellishments while practicing smocking at home.
4.3 DETAILS OF SMOCKED ARTICLES POSSESSED BY THE RESPONDENTS

This section includes the details about the articles possessed by respondents which
had been made by using smocking technique.
4.3.1 Possession of various articles by respondents (n=90)
Possessed articles Did not possess articles
30%
70%
Fig 4.3 Distribution of respondents according to their possession of articles made by

using smocking technique
The data shown in fig 4.3 revealed that 30 per cent of the respondents possessed
articles made by using smocking technique, while 70 per cent did not possess any article
prepared by using smocking technique. The articles possessed by the respondents included
frocks and nightwears.
26
4.4 PREFERENCES OF THE RESPONDENTS FOR UTILITY ARTICLES
This section of chapter deals with the preferences of the respondents regarding
different utility articles and their various parameters such as colours, fabrics, yarns and
embellishments.
4.4.1 Preferences of the respondents for utility articles
Table 4.4 Preferences of the respondents for various utility articles (n=90)
Articles WMS Rank
Cushion cover 15.49 I
Pillow covers 11.66 VII
Bolster cover 13.21 III
Shoulder bag 8.78 XII
Purse 8.70 XIII
Folder 12.69 IV
Handbag 14.36 II
Carry kit 4.74 XVII
Footwear 12.33 VI
Lampshade 12.46 V
Jewellery box 11.61 VIII
Curtains 6.87 XIV
Utility box 3.51 XIX
Curtain canopies 11.50 IX
Belt 4.00 XVIII
Pen stand 8.99 XI
Trimming for bedsheet 9.98 X
Trimming for table cover 6.57 XV
Hairband 5.51 XVI
WMS = weighted mean score
The results pertaining to the preference of the respondents regarding various utility
articles made by using smocking technique have been furnished in table 4.4. The data
revealed that the cushion cover, with a weighed mean score of 15.49, was the most preferred
article and hence was given the first rank. Handbag, bolster cover, folder, lampshade,
footwear, pillow cover, jewellery box, curtain canopies and trimming for bedsheet were
assigned the scores of 14.36, 13.21, 12.69, 12.46, 12.33, 11.66, 11.61, 11.50 and 9.98 and
were given second, third, fourth, fifth, sixth, seventh, eighth, ninth and tenth rank,
respectively.
27
It was found that cushion cover was most preferred among all the articles followed by
handbag and bolster cover while carry kit, belt and utility box were least preferred by the
respondents. Grewal (2002) also reported in her study that cushion cover and footwear were
preferred by the respondents for preparation of innovative articles.
None of respondents could think of any other innovative article which could be made
by using smocking technique.
4.4.2 Preferences of the respondents for the type of fabric
Table 4.5 Preferences of the respondents for the fabric type to be used
(n=90)*
Type of fabric f %
Cotton 60 66.67
Polyester 8 8.89
Blended 51 56.67
*Multiple responses f - frequency
Preferences of the respondents for the type of fabric to be used for making articles by
smocking technique have been furnished in table 4.5. The results elicited that cotton fabric
was preferred by most of the respondents (66.67%), followed by 56.67 per cent of the
respondents who preferred blended fabric and only 8.89 per cent of respondents preferred
polyester.
4.4.3 Preferences of respondents for the type of yarn (n=90)
Polyester yarn Cotton yarn
26.67%
73.33%
Fig 4.4 Preferences of the respondents for the type of yarns to be used for smocking
technique.
28
Preferences of respondents regarding yarn type to be used for smocking technique
have been furnished in fig 4.4. Majority of the respondents (73.33%) preferred polyester yarn
for smocking technique because of its strength whereas 26.67 per cent preferred cotton yarn
for smocking.
4.4.4 Preferences of the respondents for colour combination
Table 4.6 Preferences of the respondents for the colour combinations of fabric (n=90)
Colour combinations f %
Single coloured 55 61.11
Two coloured 30 33.34
Three coloured 3 3.33
Multi coloured 2 2.22
Data in table 4.6 shows the preferences of respondents regarding the colour combinations
used in articles made by smocking technique. The data revealed that single coloured option
was most preferred. It was opted by 61.11 per cent of respondents followed by two coloured
combination which was preferred by 33.33 per cent of the respondents. Multi coloured
combination was least preferred by the respondents.
4.4.5 Preferences of respondents regarding different fabric colours

Table 4.7 Preferences of respondents for various fabric colours in utility articles
(n=90)
Colour WMS Rank
Pink 9.57 I
Red 7.67 III
Blue 9.57 I
Purple 7.41 V
Green 3.50 IX
Brown 7.38 VI
Grey 2.53 XI
Yellow 7.48 IV
White 4.14 VII
Black 2.73 X
Cream 4.02 VIII
29
The preferences of respondents regarding different fabric colours have been furnished
in table 4.7. It was found that with an equal weighted mean score of 9.57, both blue and pink
colour were ranked first. Red, yellow, purple and brown were given third, fourth, fifth and
sixth ranks with weighted mean score of 7.67, 7.48, 7.41 and 7.38, respectively. White,
cream, green, black and grey were least preferred by the respondents. The studies done by
Grewal (2002) and Kaur (2011) also revealed that colours like blue, pink, yellow and red
were largely preferred by the respondents for preparation of decorative and utility articles.
4.4.6 Preferences of respondents for fabric designs
Table 4.8 Preferences of the respondents for various fabric designs (n=90)
Fabric design f %
Plain 58 64.45
Plain with self design 10 11.11
Stripes 11 12.22
Checks 11 12.22
It is evident from the data furnished in table 4.8 that plain fabric was preferred the most
by 64.44 per cent of the respondents, followed by an equal percentage of respondents
(12.22%) who preferred stripes and check designs, and rest 11.11 per cent of the respondents
preferred plain with self design. Kaur (2011) found in her study that plain fabric design was
preferred by the respondents for product development.
All the respondents expressed their willingness for buying articles made by using
smocking technique because of uniqueness and delicacy of the work.
4.4.7 Preference of the respondents regarding combination of smocking with
embellishment (n=90)
Preferred to use embellishments Did not prefer to use embellishments
12.22%
87.78%
Fig 4.5 Preferences of respondents for various embellishments.
30
4.4.8 Preferences of respondents for embellishments
It has been found that majority of the respondents (87.78%) preferred to combine
embellishments with smocking to enhance the look of the article. Only 12.22 per cent of the
respondents did not prefer to embellish the smocked articles.
Table 4.9 Preferences of respondents for various embellishments (n=90)
Embellishments WMS Ranks
Beads 5.70 II
Shells 2.80 VI
Mirrors 2.98 V
Sequins 4.44 III
Tassels 3.27 IV
Crystals 2.37 VII
Lace 6.44 I
Data presented in table 4.9 indicated that laces and beads were preferred by majority
of respondents with weighted mean score of 6.44 and 5.70 and were given first and second
rank respectively. Sequins and tassels were given third and fourth rank with a weighted mean
scores 4.44 and 3.37, respectively. Mirrors, shells and crystals were least preferred by
respondents. Kaur (2011) and Sunidhi (2004) reported in their studies that beads were
preferred by majority of the respondents for embellishment of articles. The embellishments
used have been shown in Plate I - XII.
4.5 DETAILS OF SMOCKED ARTICLES
After studying the preferences of the respondents regarding various inputs required
for making utility articles by using smocking technique, the investigator sketched 2 designs
each for ten top ranked articles. Twenty designs were then shown to a panel of judges for
evaluation and one design for each article was selected and developed. Some changes were
made in designs, colours and fabrics of the articles on the basis of evaluation by the judges.
The details of prepared articles have been presented in this section of the chapter.
Article A1: Article A1 was a cushion cover in round shape which was made by using velour
fabric in purple colour. Canadian smocking stitches were used in cushion cover and were
worked out by using polyester yarn. The diameter of the cushion cover was 12”(30.48 cm). In
order to fix the pleats developed by smocking stitches, a round plastic button of 2” diameter
had been used. The button had been covered with same velour fabric and pleats were sewn
and fixed in the centre. A casing was stitched on the back side of cushion cover and a
drawstring stitched with same velour fabric was inserted in it. The cushion cover could be
31
opened by pulling the drawstring. The time taken for completion of cushion cover was 9
hours (Plate XIII)
Article A2: Article A2 was a pillow cover in rectangular shape. Plain glazed cotton fabric was
used for this. The article was made in pink colour and lattice smocking pattern was used. The
stitches had been made by using polyester yarn. The dimensions of pillow cover were 23.5” x
16.75” (59.69 x 42.55 cm). The pillow cover was embellished by using a white lace on all
sides. For opening of pillow cover, a zipper was attached on the unsmocked back side. The
time taken for making of pillow cover was 10 hours (Plate XIV).
Article A3: Article A3 was a bolster cover of length 27” (68.58 cm) and diameter 8.5”(21.59
cm). This article was developed by using thick cotton fabric with red and white check. The
smocking stitches were worked out by using shell smocking pattern. Polyester yarn was used
for making smocking stitches on the wrong side of fabric. The stitches were made in the
centre portion of bolster cover. On both ends of bolster cover, casings were used for putting
up drawstrings, which facilitate its opening and closing. Tassels made of acrylic yarn and
beads were used to enhance the look of bolster cover. Time taken for completion of bolster
cover was 12 hours (Plate XV).
Article A4: The article was trimming for bedsheet of size 12.5” (31.75 cm). The trimming
was prepared by using Lozenge smocking pattern on the wrong side of white coloured net
fabric having thickly woven vertical stripes each at 1”of interval. It was attached on pink
coloured cotton bed sheet having self printed stripes. White coloured polyester yarn was used
for working out smocking stitches. Trimming was attached on the sides of bedsheet. The
trimming for bedsheet has been finished at the bottom by white coloured pom pom lace. The
article was completed in 48 hours (Plate XVI).
Article A5: Article A5 was curtain canopy of single door width. The length of the canopy at
both ends was 23.5” (59.69 cm) and in the centre was 12.5” (31.75 cm). The canopy has been
made by using blended self printed fabric in blue colour and pleated smocking was done in
five rows. The smocking was carried out by using polyester yarn on the right side of the
fabric. A casing was sewn on the top of canopy for a curtain rod. The bottom of the canopy
was finished with beaded lace to give it a fancy look. Off white beads were used to embellish
the smocking rows of canopy. Time taken to sew and embellish the curtain canopy was 12
hours (Plate XVII).
Article A6: This was a lampshade. It was made by using organdy fabric of blue colour and
two tints of blue were used to make it more attractive. Panels of 12 x 8.2” (30.48 x 20.83 cm)
32
Plate I: Floral lace Plate II: Woven lace
Plate III: Pom pom lace Plate IV: Beaded lace
Plate V: Sequined lace Plate VI: Lace with metallic thread
TYPES OF EMBELLISHMENTS USED IN UTILITY ARTICLES

Plate VII: Floral sequins Plate VIII: Silver beads
Plate IX: White beads Plate X: Sequins
Plate XI: Tassels Plate XII: Metallic sequins
TYPES OF EMBELLISHMENTS USED IN UTILITY ARTICLES
34
size of both colours were dyed, cut and smocked separately and were fixed alternatively on
the base for lampshade. Pleated smocking pattern was used for this. The smocking stitches
were worked by using cotton yarn of contrast blue colour, for each of the panel separately.
Five rows of smocking stitches were done on panels. Lace, sequins and silver beads were
used to embellish the lampshade and it took 24 hours to complete the article (Plate XVIII).
Article A7: Article A7 was a handbag. The handbag was prepared by using a woven cotton
fabric in white and yellow stripes. The smocking pattern was worked out in such a way that
white stripes were shown and yellow stripes were hidden in some areas, while yellow stripes
were shown and white were hidden in other areas. White cotton yarn was used for working
out smocking stitches on the right side of fabric and it was left uncut and visible. A zig zag
pattern of smocking was used. Small off white beads were used in the smocked area for
embellishment. The shape of the handbag was semicircle with a diameter of 18”(45.72 cm).
Two stripes of same striped woven fabric were attached on both sides of the handbag. Elastic
of ¼” (0.64 cm) width was sewn on both sides of handbag to give it proper shape. For
opening and closing of handbag, white coloured velcro was sewn inside the opening of
handbag. The time taken for completion of handbag was 24 hours (Plate XIX).
Article A8: Article A8 was a jewellery box which was made in dark blue coloured velour
fabric. Floral smocking pattern was worked all over the fabric and it was then attached to the
wooden box. The dimensions of the jewellery box were 8.2 x 5.2 x 5” (20.83 x 13.2 x 12.7
cm). The smocking stitches were made by using matching blue polyester yarn on the right
side of fabric. Small silver stones were used for the embellishment and it took 11 hours to
complete the article (Plate XX).
Article A9: Article A9 was a folder with dimensions 14.5 x 10.75” (36.83 x 27.3 cm). The
folder was made by using khaddar fabric of brown colour. The smocking pattern used for
folder was floral mesh and it was worked on the front side. The stitches were made by using
matching brown coloured polyester yarn. The folder was covered with the same khaddar
fabric from inside and two patch pockets were also made. Lace and sequins were used to
embellish the folder. The time taken for making the article was 13 hours (Plate XXI).
Article A10: Article A10 was footwear. For this, smocking has been done on pink cotton
canvas fabric having dimensions of 18 x 8” (45.72 x 20.32 cm). The smocking was carried
out on the wrong side of the fabric to create zig zag pattern on the right side using matching
pink coloured polyester yarn. The ready fabric was cut and fixed onto a footwear and the
33
edges were sewn inside the base to achieve finished look. Total time taken for completion of
this article was 12 hours (Plate XXII).
4.6 PREFERENCES OF RESPONDENTS REGARDING PREPARED ARTICLES

The results pertaining to the preferences of the respondents for the developed articles
on the basis of various parameters have been furnished in this section.
4.6.1 Preferences of the respondents for the prepared articles on the basis of
suitability of fabric
The study of the preferences of the respondents for the prepared articles on the basis of
suitability of fabric has been presented in table 4.10. The data revealed that article A2, pillow
cover was given the first rank. It was followed by article A1, cushion cover and article A3,
bolster cover respectively. Article A9, a folder made in khaddar fabric was the least preferred
on the basis of suitability of fabric.
Table 4.10 Preferences of respondents for prepared articles on the basis of suitability of
fabric (n=45)
Code with article name WMS Rank
A1 Cushion cover 8.13 II
A2 Pillow cover 8.64 I
A3 Bolster cover 7.89 III
A4 Trimming for bedsheet 4.04 VII
A5 Curtain canopy 6.58 IV
A6 Lampshade 5.38 V
A7 Handbag 4.20 VI
A8 Jewellery box 3.91 VIII
A9 Folder 2.80 X
A10 Footwear 3.42 IX
4.6.2 Preferences of the respondents for the prepared articles on the basis of design.
Data in table 4.11 reveal that article A1, cushion cover in round shape was ranked
first. It was followed by jewellery box, pillow cover and trimming for bedsheet with floral
patterns, lattice smocking and lozenge smocking pattern, which were placed at second, third
and fourth rank, respectively. The article A6, lampshade was least preferred by the
respondents. Grewal (2002) also reported that cushion cover was preferred the most by
respondents on the basis of suitability of design.
34
Plate XIII Article A1 CUSHION COVER
START
DOWNWARDS
M OVE
UPWARDS
IN NEXT COL UM N
CANADIAN SMOCKING PATTERN STITCH USED

Plate XIV Article A2: PILLOW COVER
START
DOWNWARDS
M OVE
UPWARDS
IN NEXT COL UM N
LATTICE SMOCKING PATTERN STITCH USED
34
Plate XV Article A3: BOLSTER COVER
START
DOWNWARDS
M OVE
UPWARDS
IN NEXT COLUM N
SHELL SMOCKING PATTERN STITCH USED
35
Plate XVI Article A4: TRIMMING FOR BEDSHEET
START LEFT TO RIGHT
LOZENGE SMOCKING PATTERN STITCH

USED
36
Plate XVII Article A5: CURTAIN CANOPY
START LEFT TO RIGHT
PLEATED SMOCKING PATTERN STITCH

(ONE BOX REPRESENTS A KNIFE PLEAT) USED
37
Plate XVIII Article A6: LAMPSHADE
START LEFT TO RIGHT
PLEATED SMOCKING PATTERN STITCH USED

(ONE BOX REPRESENTS A KNIFE PLEAT)
38
PlateX IX Article A7: HANDBAG
START LEFT TO RIGHT
ZIG ZAG SMOCKING PATTERN STITCH USED

(ONE BOX REPRESENTS A KNIFE PLEAT)
39
Plate XX Article A8: JEWELLERY BOX
START LEFT TO RIGHT
STITCH USED
FLORAL SMOCKING PATTERN
40
Plate XXI Article A9: FOLDER
MOVE
DOWNWARDS
FOR ALL COLUMNS
FLORAL MESH SMOCKING PATTERN STITCH USED
41
Plate XXII Article A10: FOOTWEAR
START
DOWNWARDS
MOVE UPWARDS IN NEXT COLUMN
ZIG ZAG SMOCKING PATTERN STITCH USED
42
Table 4.11 Preferences of respondents for prepared articles on the basis of design
(n=45)
A1 Cushion cover 7.93 I
A2 Pillow cover 6.96 III
A3 Bolster cover 5.09 VII
A4 Trimming for bedsheet 5.73 IV
A5 Curtain canopy 5.62 V
A6 Lampshade 2.62 X
A7 Handbag 5.33 VI
A8 Jewellery box 7.31 II
A9 Folder 4.93 VIII
A10 Footwear 3.47 IX
4.6.3 Preferences of the respondents for the prepared articles on the basis of colour
Data pertaining to preferences of the respondents regarding colours of the prepared
articles have been presented in table 4.12. It is evident from the data in the table that article
A1, cushion cover in purple colour was given the first rank. Article A8, jewellery box in dark
blue colour was given the second rank, followed by article A3, bolster cover made in red and
white coloured checked fabric was given third rank. Article A9, a folder, made in brown
colour was least preferred. Grewal (2002) also found in her study that cushion cover was
given first rank on the basis of suitability of colour.
Table 4.12 Preferences of respondents for prepared articles on the basis of colour
(n=45)
A2 Pillow cover 6.36 V
A3 Bolster cover 6.87 III
A4 Trimming for bedsheet 5.27 VI
A5 Curtain canopy 4.62 VII
A6 Lampshade 6.62 IV
A7 Handbag 2.98 IX
A8 Jewellery box 7.44 II
A9 Folder 2.82 X
A10 Footwear 4.27 VIII
35
4.6.4 Preferences of the respondents for the prepared articles on the basis of
embellishments
Data in table 4.13 revealed that article A8, jewellery box embellished with silver
coloured stones, was ranked first. It was followed by curtain canopy, lampshade and bolster
cover, which were embellished with beads and beaded lace, sequins and tassels, and were
given second, third and fourth rank, respectively.
Table 4.13 Preferences of respondents for prepared articles on the basis of

embellishments (n=45)
A1 Cushion cover 5.07 V
A2 Pillow cover 3.09 X
A3 Bolster cover 7.29 IV
A4 Trimming for bedsheet 5.04 VI
A5 Curtain canopy 7.51 II
A6 Lampshade 7.40 III
A7 Handbag 4.36 VII
A8 Jewellery box 8.56 I
A9 Folder 3.27 IX
A10 Footwear 3.42 VIII

4.6.5 Preferences of the respondents for the prepared articles on the basis of overall
impact
It is apparent form the data in table 4.14 that article A1, cushion cover with all
over smocking design in purple colour, was given first rank in case of overall impact of the
prepared articles. It was followed by article A5, a curtain canopy and article A10, a footwear,
with second and third rank, respectively. Article A9, folder was least preferred by the
respondents.
36
Table 4.14 Preferences of respondents for prepared articles on the basis of overall
impact (n=45)
A2 Pillow cover 4.27 VIII
A3 Bolster cover 3.22 IX
A4 Trimming for bedsheet 4.51 VII
A5 Curtain canopy 7.58 II
A6 Lampshade 5.58 V
A7 Handbag 6.02 IV
A8 Jewellery box 5.42 VI
A9 Folder 2.33 X
A10 Footwear 7.47 III
4.6.6 Preferences of the respondents for the prepared articles on the basis of utility of
articles
Preferences of the respondents for the smocked articles on the basis of their utility
have been presented in table 4.15. Majority of the respondents preferred article A2, a pillow
cover, on the basis of utility of article, followed by article A3, a bolster cover and article A1,
cushion cover, respectively. Article A9, a folder was least preferred by the respondents.
Grewal (2002) also revealed in her study that cushion cover was given third rank on the basis
of utility of articles.
Table 4.15 Preferences of respondents for prepared articles on the basis of utility of
articles (n=45)
A1 Cushion cover 7.18 III
A2 Pillow cover 8.29 I
A3 Bolster cover 7.33 II
A4 Trimming for bedsheet 3.89 IX
A5 Curtain canopy 3.96 VII
A6 Lampshade 5.71 V
A7 Handbag 6.09 IV
A8 Jewellery box 3.91 VIII
A9 Folder 3.73 X
A10 Footwear 4.91 VI
37
4.6.7 Opinion of respondents regarding prepared articles
The opinion of the respondents regarding the prepared articles was taken on the
basis of three categories; very good, good and fair. Reasons for their preferences were also
taken.
Data in table 4.16 revealed that 68.89 per cent of the respondents rated the article
A1, cushion cover as very good and it was rated as good by 28.89 per cent of the respondents
while 2.22 per cent of the respondents rated it as fair. The respondents liked the article
because of its colour, utility and unique design.
In case of article A2, a pillow cover, 53.33 per cent of the respondents rated it as
very good. It was considered good by 37.78 per cent of the respondents. Only 8.89 per cent of
the respondents rated it as fair. The reason stated by the respondents for their opinions
regarding the article were utility and the fabric used for it.
Table 4.16 Distribution of respondents according to their opinion for the utility articles
developed by using smocking technique (n=45)
Article Very good Good Fair

code f % f % f %
A1 31 68.89 13 28.89 1 2.22
A2 24 53.33 17 37.78 4 8.89
A3 23 51.11 20 44.44 2 4.44
A4 18 40.00 18 40.00 9 20.00
A5 26 57.78 15 33.33 4 8.89
A6 32 71.11 11 24.44 2 4.44
A7 23 51.11 18 40.00 4 8.89
A8 30 66.67 8 17.78 7 15.56
A9 27 60.00 13 28.89 5 11.11
A10 31 68.89 9 20.00 5 11.11
As regards to article A3, a bolster cover, it was considered to be very good by

majority of the respondents (51.11%), followed by 44.44 per cent of the respondents who
rated it as good while only 4.44 per cent of the respondents rated it as fair. The reasons for
liking the article were utility, embellishments and fabric used for it.
In case of article A4, a trimming for bedsheet, an equal percentage of the respondents
(40% each) opined the article as very good and good, whereas 20 per cent of the respondents
38
rated it as fair. Embellishment and unique smocking design were the main reasons given for
liking the article.
Article A5, the curtain canopy was rated as very good by majority of the respondents
(57.78%), followed by 33.33 per cent of the respondents who rated it as good, while only 8.89
per cent of the respondents rated it as fair. The reasons stated by the respondents for liking
this article were embellishments used and its colour.
Article A6, a lampshade, was rated as very good by 71.11 per cent of the respondents
while 24.44 per cent of the respondents rated it as good. Only 4.44 per cent of the respondents
rated it as fair. The views stated by the respondents for the article were its good design and
fabric colour used.
In case of article A7, a handbag made in white and yellow striped fabric, it was rated
as very good by 51.11 per cent, good by 40 per cent, while 8.89 per cent rated it as fair.
Majority of the respondents appreciated the hide and seek design of stripes.
Article A8, a jewellery box in dark blue colour, was rated as very good by 66.67 per
cent of the respondents, 17.78 per cent of the respondents rated it as good while only 15.56
per cent of the respondents rated it as fair. It was liked very much on the basis of use of
embellishments, colour and its use.
In case of article A9, a folder, 60 per cent of the respondents rated it as very good,
28.89 per cent rated it as good while 11.11 per cent of them rated it as fair. It was liked
because of its innovative design.
Majority of the respondents (68.89%) rated article A10, footwear, as very good and 20
per cent rated it as good. Only 11.11 per cent of the respondents rated it as fair. This article
was liked by the respondents for unique idea and innovative design.
Majority of the respondents liked the articles as the idea of making utility articles by
using smocking technique was found to be very interesting and attractive.
Results of the studies conducted by Sahni and Phadke (1995), Lele (2001), Kaur
(2011) and Grewal (2002) revealed that the respondents appreciated the prepared articles as
the work done was found to be very innovative.
4.7 ASSESSMENT OF COST EFFECTIVENESS OF THE PREPARED ARTICLES

4.7.1 Suitability of quoted price of the articles
Findings in the table 4.17 depict that the quoted prices for all the articles were
adequate, however nearly one third of the respondents felt that the quoted price for cushion
cover, pillow cover and bolster cover were high. As the Z values of comparison between high
and adequate/ low were found to be significant, it was clear that quoted price for smocked
articles was acceptable to the consumers.
39
The study by Kaur et al (2002) also revealed that the prices of prepared garments
were found to be adequate by the respondents.
Sahni and Phadke (1995) and Barua et al (1997) also found that hand woven textiles
had a great income generating potential. These not only provide a great scope of employment
opportunities to the artisans but also provide tremendous opportunities to commercialize these
textiles.
The quoted price of the articles prepared by finger weaving technique was found to be
adequate as reported by Sunidhi (2008). Kaur (2011) also found that quoted prices of articles
woven by using card weaving technique were acceptable to the consumers.
Table 4.17 Distribution of respondents according to their opinion for suitability of

quoted price (n=45)
Code with article name Quoted No. of respondents for suitability of Z

price of the quoted price value
the article High Adequate Low
in rupees
(`)
A1 Cushion cover 340 15 29 1
(33.33) (64.44) (2.22) 2.24*
A2 Pillow cover 390 14 30 1
(31.11) (66.67) (2.22) 2.53*
A3 Bolster cover 350 15 28 2
(33.33) (62.22) (4.44) 2.24*
A4 Trimming for bedsheet 900 10 28 7
(22.22) (62.22) (15.56) 3.73*
A5 Curtain canopy 670 8 32 5
(17.78) (71.11) (11.11) 4.32*
A6 Lampshade 510 10 28 7
(22.22) (62.22) (15.56) 3.73*
A7 Handbag 570 8 30 7
(17.78) (66.67) (15.56) 4.32*
A8 Jewellery box 600 11 31 3
(24.44) (68.89) (6.67) 3.43*
A9 Folder 330 8 31 6
(17.78) (68.89) (13.33) 4.32*
A10 Footwear 250 12 29 4
(26.67) (64.44) (8.89) 3.13*
Figures in parentheses indicate percentages
*Significant at 5 per cent
40
4.7.2 Assessment of percentage profit
Table 4.18 Assessment of percentage profit of the prepared articles (n=45)
Code with article name Price in rupees (`)

Cost price Average selling Z-value Percentage
price profit
A1 Cushion cover 260 345 4.04* 32.69
A2 Pillow cover 300 380 3.88* 26.67
A3 Bolster cover 270 360 6.26* 33.33
A4 Trimming for bedsheet 690 910 5.15* 31.88
A5 Curtain canopy 515 720 6.90* 39.81
A6 Lampshade 390 600 7.06* 53.85
A7 Handbag 440 580 6.00* 31.82
A8 Jewellery box 460 620 6.07* 34.78
A9 Folder 255 340 6.91* 33.33
A10 Footwear 190 290 6.88* 52.63
*Significant at 5 per cent
Data in table 4.18 show the assessment of percentage profit of the prepared articles.
In the case of A1, the cost price was `260 and majority of the respondents preferred to buy the
article for `345 with a profit of 32.69 per cent.
For article A2, the cost price was `300 and average selling price was `380 with 26.67
per cent of profit margin. Article A3 had the cost price of `270 and average selling price was
`360, leading to a profit margin of 33.33 per cent.
For article A4, the cost price was `690 with an average selling price of `910, thus, a
profit margin of 31.88 per cent. Article A5 was having cost price of `515, with an average
selling price of `720 and a profit margin of 39.81 per cent. The cost price of article A6 was
`390 and average selling price was `600 with a profit margin of 53.85 per cent.
For article A7, the cost price was `440 and average selling price was `580 with a
profit margin of 31.82 per cent. In case of article A8, the cost price was `460 and average
selling price was `620 with a profit margin of 34.78 per cent.
For article A9, and A10 the cost price was `255 and `190 while the average selling
price was `340 and `290 with profit margins of 33.33 and 52.63 per cent, respectively.
It is evident from the results that the profit margins in smocking vary from article to
article. Depending upon the colours, embellishments and innovation of concept, 26.67 to
53.85 per cent profit can be earned by preparing these articles.
41
The study by Sunidhi (2004) revealed that it was possible to earn 20.7 to 50 per cent
profit by making craft articles based on preferences of consumers.
As for all the articles there was significant difference between cost price and average
selling price (average selling prices were significantly more), it is clear that articles developed
by using smocking technique are cost effective.
The high acceptability and profit margins of smocked articles made showed that these
are commercially viable. When these smocked articles would be manufactured commercially,
the cost of production will reduce and profit margins will increase, so if the calculated per
cent profit is positive and is more than 26.67 per cent than the prepared articles are said to be
commercially viable.
42
CHAPTER V
SUMMARY
Embroidery is one of the most widely used ways of surface embellishment and has its
numerous forms and variations all over the globe. Among the various embroidery techniques,
smocking is one of the oldest one. The fabrics decorated with smocking stitches attain
elegance and attract the eye of the viewer. Smocking stitches add fullness to the fabric and
increase its elasticity. It can be used in garments and also, various decorative, personal and
household use articles can be made by using this technique.
Use of various forms and stitches of smocking stitches are good ways to meet the
ever increasing demand of variety in market. While smocking, wise use of different types of
fabrics like checks, dots, stripes can add great interest to it. The use of traditional skills of
smocking alongwith contemporary styles will not only add uniqueness but may also help in
preserving the art by popularizing it among masses. Keeping in mind, the importance of art,
the study has been planned under the following objectives:
1. To study the consumer preferences regarding type of articles, fabric, colours and
embellishments for the articles to be prepared with smocking technique.
2. To design and prepare the articles according to consumer preferences.
3. To study the cost effectiveness of the prepared articles.
The study was undertaken in three localities of Ludhiana city. An interview schedule
was employed to study the preferences of 90 female respondents, aged between 20-40 years,
for utility articles made by using smocking techniques. The study was conducted in two
stages i.e. the first stage included survey to study the consumer preferences regarding various
parameters of smocking techniques. The second stage dealt with the preparation of articles
and determination of cost effectiveness of prepared articles.
On the basis of preferences of respondents, a total of twenty designs, were sketched
and shown to a panel of judges. Out of theses designs, the top ranked design for each article
was considered for development. Second interview schedule was employed to a subsample of
forty five respondents to study the preferences regarding the prepared articles for suitability of
fabric, design, colour, embellishments, overall impact and utility. The cost effectiveness of
the prepared articles was studied.
Findings drawn on the basis of the results of the study are:
Majority of the respondents were housewives between age group of 31-40 years and
had education up to graduation. Most of the respondents‟ families were in service and were
nuclear families with income ranging between `10,000 to 50,000. Majority of the respondents
(51%) were not aware of smocking techniques, however 49 per cent were aware of it. Shops
were the main source of awareness of smocking technique for 68.18 per cent of the
respondents followed by magazines, family members and practical knowledge of working it.
Majority of the respondents (77.78%) had never practiced smocking at home, while
only 22.22 per cent of the respondents had practiced it at home. Seventy per cent of the
respondents worked smocking stitches on frocks, while 30 per cent of the respondents did it
on nightwear. Majority of the respondents (65%) used polyester yarn while practicing
smocking, followed by cotton yarn. Silk yarn was least used while practicing smocking.
While practicing smocking, 85 per cent of the respondents used cotton fabric and rest of them
used synthetic fabric. Thirty five per cent of the respondents used blue coloured fabrics while
practicing smocking, followed by 20 per cent respondents who used pink coloured fabrics,
Red, yellow, white and green coloured fabrics were least used by the respondents while
practicing smocking. None of the respondents used embellishments while practicing
smocking at home.
Cushion cover, handbag, bolster cover and folder were the most preferred articles
while carry kit, belt and utility box were least preferred. Majority of the respondents preferred
cotton fabric followed by blended fabrics. Synthetic fabrics were least preferred by the
respondents. Polyester yarn was most preferred by the respondents for smocking stitches
followed by cotton yarn. Single coloured fabric was the most preferred colour combination by
the respondents. Majority of the respondents preferred blue, pink, red, yellow, purple and
brown colours of the fabric while white, cream, green, black and grey were least preferred.
Plain fabric without design was preferred the most by the respondents. Lace and beads were
preferred by majority of the respondents for embellishment while mirrors, shells and crystals
were least preferred by the respondents.
Pillow cover was the most preferred article on the basis of suitability of fabric and
utility. Cushion cover was preferred the most on the basis of design, colour and overall impact
and jewellery box was the most preferred article on the basis of embellishments used.
Majority of the respondents rated all the articles as very good.
The average selling price for cushion cover, pillow cover, bolster cover and trimming
for bedsheet were `345, ` 380, `360 and `910 respectively. Curtain canopy, lampshade,
handbag and jewellery had average selling price of `720, `600, `580 and `620 respectively.
The average selling price of folder and footwear were `340 and `290. Majority of the
respondents found the quoted price of the articles to be adequate and profit margin ranged
from 26.67 to 53.85 per cent depending upon the type of article.
Conclusion
This study gives an overview of the preferences of consumers for utility articles to be
made by using smocking technique, a delicate art of manipulating fabrics and reveals the cost
effectiveness of prepared articles. It also gives an idea about the preferences of consumers for
44
fabrics, colours and embellishments. The information can be useful for all those who are
involved in a business of preparing household utility articles and embroideries. The study has
proved that designing and production of utility articles by using smocking technique hold
good commercial potential and given insight into its economic viability. An entrepreneur or
designer can nearly earn 26.67 to 53.85 per cent of profit, depending upon use of fabric,
smocking stitch and embellishments. As a result, smocked utility articles hold a good
commercial potential and also are economically viable.
Implications of the study
The present study dealt with contemporary use of smocking techniques for
developing utility articles and it will bring out innovative ideas for production of utility
articles. The use of various smocking techniques and mix and match of type of fabrics can
add great interest to the articles and increase its market value. The result related to type of
fabrics, yarns and colours would be beneficial to the artisans and housewives for making the
articles in various ranges. Housewives can earn nearly 26.67 to 53.85 per cent profit
depending on the type of smocking technique and design of the article. Hence, the smocked
articles hold a good commercial potential and also are economically viable.
Suggestions for the further studies
1. A study on effects of various smocking techniques in the development of cushions for
household use can be conducted.
2. A study on development of utility articles can be conducted by combining smocking
techniques with any other technique of embroidery.
Recommendations
1. Smocking can be taken up as a profitable enterprise as one can earn nearly 26.67 to
53.85 per cent profit by making utility articles on commercial basis.
2. Canadian smocking designs were most preferred and can be used to make other utility
articles like purses, various forms of footwear etc.
45
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49
APPENDIX -I
CONTEMPORARY USE OF SMOCKING TECHNIQUES FOR DEVELOPMENT OF

UTILITY ARTICLES.
Interview schedule-I
Part-I
BACKGROUND INFORMATION
1. Name:
2. Address:
SOCIO-PERSONAL PROFILE OF THE RESPONDENT:
3. Age:
4. Educational status:
5. Occupation of the respondent:
a. Housewife
b. Service
c. Business
d. Any other
6. Occupation of the family:
a. Service
b. Business
c. Agriculture
d. Any other
7. Type of family: (Joint/Nuclear)
8. Approximately gross monthly income of the family:
Part-II
CONSUMER AWARENESS REGARDING SMOCKING AND POSSESSION OF

SMOCKED ARTICLES
9. Are you aware of smocking technique? Yes/No
10. If yes, how did you become aware of smocking technique?
a. Family members /friends d. Practical knowledge
b. Books e. Display at shops
c. Magazines f. Any other

11. If aware about smocking, have you ever practiced smocking at home? Yes/No
12. If yes, what articles have you prepared by using smocking technique? Give the following
details.
Articles yarn used fabric used fabric colour embellishments
13. Do you possess any article made of smocking technique? Yes/No
PART III
PREFERENCES OF THE RESPONDENTS
14. Which articles would you like to be made by using smocking technique from the
following? Rank them.
ARTICLES RANK
a. Cushion cover
b. Pillow covers
c. Bolster cover (Round pillow cover)
d. Shoulder bag
e. Purse
f. Folder
g. Handbag
h. Carry kit
i. Footwear
j. Lampshade
k. Jewellery box
l. Curtains
m. Utility box
n. Curtain canopies
o. Belt
p. Pen stand
q. Trimming for bedsheet
r. Trimming for table cover
s. Hairband
15. Can you think of other articles which can be made by using smocking technique?
16. If yes, then list the articles.
ii
17. Which fabric type would you like to be used for making the articles?
a. Cotton
b. Polyester
c. Silk
d. Blend
e. Any other
18. What kind of yarns would you prefer to use for smocking technique?
a. Cotton
b. Silk
c. Rayon
d. Polyester
e. Any other
19. What type of colour combinations would you prefer?
a. Single coloured
b. Two coloured
c. Three coloured
d. Four coloured
e. Multi coloured
f. Any other
20. Which fabric colours would you prefer for articles to be made by smocking technique?
a. Pink h. Yellow
b. Red i. White
c. Blue j. Black
d. Purple k. cream
e. Green l. None
f. Brown m. Any other (Please specify)
g. Grey
21. What type of fabric designs would you like?
a. Plain without design
b. Plain with self design
iii
c. Dots
d. Checks
e. Stripes
f. Floral
g. Combination
h. Any other
22. Would you like to buy any articles made by using smocking technique? Yes/No
23. Would you like to combine smocking with any embellishment to enhance the beauty of
the articles? Yes/No
24. If yes, rank the following in the order of preferences of use.
a. Beads g. Lace
b. Shells h. Any other (Please specify)
c. Mirrors
d. Sequins
e. Tassels
f. Crystals
iv
APPENDIX-II
CONTEMPORARY USE OF SMOCKING TECHNIQUES FOR DEVELOPMENT OF

UTILITY ARTICLES
Interview Schedule-II
I. Rank the smocked articles according to the following:
Article Article Suitability Design Colour Embellishment Overall Utility of

of fabric impact article
A1 (Cushion)
A2 (Pillow cover)
A3 (Bolster)
A4 (Trimming for
bedsheet)
A5 (Curtain
canopy)
A6 (Lampshade)
A7 (Handbag)
A8 (Jewellery box)
A9 (Folder)
A10 (Footwear)
II. Give your views regarding the decorative articles made by using smocking technique.
Article Very good Good Fair Reasons for the same

A1 (Cushion)
A2 (Pillow cover)
A3 (Bolster)
A4 (Trimming for bedsheet)
A5 (Curtain canopy)
A6 (Lampshade)
A7 (Handbag)
A8 (Jewellery box)
A9 (Folder)
A10 (Footwear)
v
III. Do you think the quoted price of articles are:
Article Quoted price in rupees Suitability of quoted price

(`) High Appropriate Low
A1 (Cushion) 340
A2 (Pillow cover) 390
A3 (Bolster) 350
A4 (Trimming for bedsheet) 900
A5 (Curtain canopy) 670
A6 (Lampshade) 510
A7 (Handbag) 570
A8 (Jewellery box) 600
A9 (Folder) 330
A10 (Footwear) 250
IV. At what price these particular articles would be suitable?
Price in rupees (`)

Quoted price Price preferred by
Article respondents
A1 (Cushion) 340
A2 (Pillow cover) 390
A3 (Bolster) 350
A4 (Trimming for bedsheet) 900
A5 (Curtain canopy) 670
A6 (Lampshade) 510
A7 (Handbag) 570
A8 (Jewellery box) 600
A9 (Folder) 330
A10 (Footwear) 250
vi
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ix
x
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xiii
xiv
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xvi
VITA
Name : Shikha Bajaj
Father‟s Name : Mr. Vijay Bajaj
Mother‟s Name : Mrs. Anita Bajaj
Nationality : Indian
Date of Birth : 26th May, 1983
Permanent Address : H.No.739/10-A, St.No.7, Guru Nanak Nagar,

Patiala
EDUCATIONAL QUALIFICATIONS
Bachelor‟s degree : B.Sc. (Hons.) Home Science
University and year of award : Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana,

2005
OCPA : 7.63/10.00
Master‟s degree : Master of Science
University and year of award : Punjab Agricultural University,

Ludhiana, 2014
OCPA : 8.47/ 10.00
Title of Master‟s Thesis : Contemporary Use of Smocking Techniques

for Development of Utility Articles

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CONTEMPORARY USE OF SMOCKING TECHNIQUES

FOR DEVELOPMENT OF UTILITY ARTICLES

Submitted to the Punjab Agricultural University

Department of Apparel and Textile Science

With extreme pleasure, I record my gratitude and indebtedness to my major advisor,

My affectionate gratitude is to my respected and beloved parents for their blessings.

I also express my thanks to my husband, whose constant cooperation, encouragement

The investigation entitled „Contemporary use of smocking techniques for

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CHAPTER TITLE PAGE NO.

II REVIEW OF LITERATURE 5-15

III MATERIAL AND METHODS 16-21

IV RESULTS AND DISCUSSION 22-42

TABLE TITLE PAGE

3.1 Codes assigned to the articles 18

4.1 Distribution of respondents according to their socio personal 23

4.2 Distribution of the respondents according to their source of 24

4.3 Distribution of the respondents according to the articles made, 25

4.4 Preferences of the respondents for various utility articles 27

4.5 Preferences of the respondents for the fabric type to be used 28

4.6 Preferences of the respondents for the colour combinations of 29

4.7 Preferences of respondents for various fabric colours in utility 29

4.8 Preferences of the respondents for various fabric designs 30

4.9 Preferences of respondents for various embellishments 31

4.10 Preferences of respondents for prepared articles on the basis of 34

4.11 Preferences of respondents for prepared articles on the basis of 35

4.12 Preferences of respondents for prepared articles on the basis of 35

4.13 Preferences of respondents for prepared articles on the basis of 36

4.14 Preferences of respondents for prepared articles on the basis of 37

4.15 Preferences of respondents for prepared articles on the basis of 37

4.16 Distribution of respondents according to their opinion for the 38

4.17 Distribution of respondents according to their opinion for 40

4.18 Assessment of percentage profit of the prepared articles 41

FIGURE TITLE PAGE

4.1 Awareness regarding smocking techniques among the respondents 24

4.2 Distribution of the respondents based on practicing smocking by them 25

4.3 Distribution of respondents according to their possession of articles 26

4.5 Preferences of respondents for various embellishments 30

III Pom pom lace

VI Lace with metallic thread

VII Floral sequins

VIII Silver beads

XII Metallic sequins

XIII Article A1 Cushion cover

XIV Article A2 Pillow cover

XV Article A3 Bolster cover

XVI Article A4 Trimming for bedsheet

XVII Article A5 Curtain canopy

XVIII Article A6 Lampshade

XIX Article A7 Handbag

XX Article A8 Jewellery box

XXI Article A9 Folder

XXII Article A10 Footwear

Limitations of the study

2.1 CONSUMER PREFERENCES

3.1 LOCALE OF THE STUDY

Name of the article Article code

Trimming for bedsheet A4