$1.

95

SCHMETZ NEEDLE GUIDE

butt
®
needle
size
shank
Needle Anatomy
Butt: The beveled end allows easy insertion in the needle bar.
Shank: Household needles have a flat shank, while commercial and industrial needles have round, threaded,
notched or other special shanks. Shanks allow perfect positioning of the needle in the sewing machine.
Shoulder: The sloping area transitioning between the shank and blade. SCHMETZ® color codes appear on the shoulder.
Blade: Needle size is determined by the blade diameter (i.e., size 75 is .75mm).
Groove: The groove cradles and guides thread to the eye. The length and size of the groove shoulder
needle
vary according to needle type. type
Scarf: The indentation above the eye that allows the bobbin hook to smoothly grab the thread under needle
the throat plate to create a stitch. The shape and size of the scarf vary according to needle type. size
Eye: The hole through which thread passes. The shape and size of the eye vary according to needle type.
Point & Tip: Length, shape and size vary according to needle types.
Needle Type: Upper color band indicates needle type (i.e., Stretch).
Needle Size: Lower color band indicates size (i.e., 75/11).
blade
Change Your Needle 130/705 H
Damaged or worn needles result in: The needle system used by home sewing machines.
Needles have a flat shank and a scarf.
• Broken or shredded threads
• Skipped or uneven stitches
• Puckered or damaged fabrics SCHMETZ® Works with All groove
• Popping sounds made by
sewing machine Sewing Machine Brands!
Replace Your Needle How to Read a Needle Package SCHMETZ® Chrome
Professional Grade Needles
It’s the easiest way
to improve your Why Chrome?
stitch quality. •Less friction on thread
needle type passing through eye.
needle size •Penetrates fabric with less eye
Needle Selection resistance.
Choose needle size •Smoother stitch creation.
according to thread needle type •Resists heat – improved point
durability & performance.
thickness and needle needle system
type according to needle size indicates select sizes available in tip
SCHMETZ® Chrome.
fabric application.

General Purpose Needles

Universal Jersey (Ball Point) Stretch
Size: 60/8, 65/9, Size: 70/10, 80/12, Size: 65/9, 75/11,
70/10, 75/11, 80/12, 90/14, 100/16, 90/14, Twin
90/14, 100/16, Assorted Color Code: Yellow
110/18, 120/19, Color Code: Orange Feature: Medium ball
Assorted, Twin, Triple Feature: Medium ball point. point, special eye and scarf.
Color Code: None Fabric Use: Knits and some Fabric Use: Elastic materials
Feature: Slightly rounded point. stretch fabrics. Made especially for sewing and highly elastic knitwear. The
Fabric Use: Numerous - woven and knits. on knits. The medium ball point does not medium ball point, specially designed eye
A great general purpose needle. damage or break knit fibers. and scarf prevent skipped stitches.

www.SCHMETZneedles.com
Euro-notions, Inc. ©2017 All rights reserved. Euro-notions and SCHMETZ® names and logos are trademarks and/or registered trademarks of each respective company. #D-87
 Specialty Needles
Jeans Microtex (Sharp) Metallic
Size: 70/10, 80/12, Size: 60/8, 70/10, Size: 80/12, 90/14,
90/14, 100/16, 80/12, 90/14, Twin
110/18, Assorted, 100/16, 110/18, Color Code: Pink
Twin Assorted Feature: Elongated eye.
Color Code: Blue Color Code: Purple Fabric Use: Metallic
Feature: Modified medium Feature: Very slim acute point. and other specialty threads. A
ball point and reinforced blade. Fabric Use: Micro fibers, polyester, silk, foils, “must have” for sewing with sensitive
Fabric Use: Denim and similar fabrics. artificial leather, coated materials. Very thin metallic threads. The elongated eye prevents
Advanced point design is a SCHMETZ® acute point creates beautiful topstitching and shredding and breaking of metallic threads.
exclusive. For penetrating extra thick woven perfectly straight stitches for quilt piecing
fabrics, denims, or quilts with minimum when precision is paramount.
needle deflection, reduced risk of needle
breakage and skipped stitches. Topstitch
Size: 80/12, 90/14,
Embroidery 100/16
Quilting Size: 75/11, 90/14, Color Code: Lt. Green
Size: 75/11, 90/14, Assorted, Twin Feature: Extra long eye.
Assorted Color Code: Red Fabric Use: Topstitch, heavy,
Color Code: Green Feature: Light ball multiple or poor quality threads.
Feature: Special taper to point, wide eye and groove. Achieve perfectly straight stitch lines
the slightly rounded point. Fabric Use: Use with rayon, and even stitches when using a straight
Fabric Use: Made especially polyester and other specialty embroidery stitch plate.
for piecing and machine quilting. threads. The special scarf, widened groove
The special tapered design allows easier and enlarged eye protect fragile threads and
fabric penetration and helps eliminate guard against excess friction allowing trouble-
skipped stitches. free embroidery and decorative stitching. Hemstitch
Size: 100, 120, Twin
Color Code: None
Leather Feature: A wing on
Size: 70/10, 80/12, Gold Embroidery
each side of the needle.
90/14, 100/16, Size: 75/11, 90/14
Fabric Use: Light or medium
110/18, Assorted Color Code: None
weight loosely woven fabrics. Popular
Color Code: Brown Feature: Titanium
for heirloom sewing and to create
Feature: Cutting point. Nitride coating,
decorative cutwork.
Fabric Use: Leather, artificial slightly rounded point
leather, heavy non-woven synthetics. and enlarged eye.
Do not use on knit or woven fabrics. Fabric Use: Coarse
and densely woven materials. Slightly Double Eye
rounded point and enlarged eye are perfect Size: 80/12
Quick Threading for embroidery on most fabrics and with Color Code: None
the most fragile specialty threads. Titanium Feature: Universal
Size: 80/12, 90/14 coating resists adhesives, improves needle
Color Code: None needle with two eyes.
wear and penetration of coarse and densely Fabric Use: Numerous —
Feature: Universal woven fabrics.
needle with a slip-in woven and knits. Use two
threading slot in the eye. different threads for shading and texturing
Fabric Use: Numerous — effects for embroidery and topstitching.
woven and knits. A general purpose
indicates select sizes available in
needle for effortless threading. SCHMETZ® Chrome.

Multiple Needles
Twin Metallic Twin
Double needles are actually two Double Hemstitch Size: 2.5/80, 3.0/90
needles mounted on one shaft Size: 2.5/100
used to create two rows of stitches A hemstitch needle and a universal Jeans Twin
simultaneously. Use two spools of needle with a 2.5 mm separation. Size: 4.0/100
thread and one bobbin thread.
Embroidery Twin Stretch Twin
Universal Twin Size: 2.0/75, 3.0/75 Size: 2.5/75, 4.0/75
Sizes: 1.6/70, 1.6/80, 2.0/80,
2.5/80, 3.0/90, 4.0/80, 4.0/90, Universal Triple
4.0/100, 6.0/100, 8.0/100, Assorted Size: 2.5/80, 3.0/80

www.SCHMETZneedles.com
Euro-notions, Inc. ©2017 All rights reserved. Euro-notions and SCHMETZ® names and logos are trademarks and/or registered trademarks of each respective company. #D-87
 ABC
Pocket Guide

Home Sewing Machine Needles

130/705 H

1
SCHMETZ APP

SC !
HM e dles
ETZ Ne
Wondering which needle to use?
Check out the SCHMETZ App — it’s free!

www.SCHMETZneedles.com
Euro-Notions, Inc. ©2014. All Rights Reserved.

2
 HOW TO READ A NEEDLE PACKAGE

needle type
needle size

needle type
needle system
needle size
Needle Systems
130/705 H
Home sewing machines require a flat shank needle with a
scarf. All needles in this system have a scarf and flattened
shank for perfect positioning in the needle bar in relation
to the hook.
15x1 H
Cross reference to 130/705 H.

SCHMETZ needles work with

all home sewing machines!

3
UNIVERSAL

• Size: 60/8, 65/9, 70/10,

75/11, 80/12, 90/14,
100/16, 110/18, 120/19,
Assorted, Twin, Triple.
• Color Code: Size only
• Feature: Slightly
rounded point.
• Fabric Use: Numerous —
wovens and knits. A great
general purpose needle.

Needle Selection
Choose needle size according to thread thickness and
needle type according to fabric application.

4
 STRETCH

• Size: 75/11, 90/14,

Twin
• Color Code: Yellow
• Feature: Medium ball
point, special eye and
scarf.
• Fabric Use: Elastic
materials and highly elastic
knitwear. The medium ball
point, specially designed
eye and scarf prevent
skipped stitches.

Sewing with a Specialty Thread

A needle with a larger eye produces less friction on the
thread as it passes through the eye. Try an Embroidery,
Gold Embroidery, Metallic or Topstitch needle.

5
JERSEY

• Size: 70/10, 80/12,

90/14, 100/16, Assorted
• Color Code: Orange
• Feature: Medium ball
point.
• Fabric Use: Knits and
some stretch fabrics.
Made especially for
sewing on knits. The
medium ball point does
not damage or break
knitted fibers.

Needle & Fabric Recommendations

Fabrics vary greatly. Test the needle on fabric scraps first.
Artificial Leather – Microtex or Leather 70/10-100/16
Batiste – Universal 60/8, 70/10
Bed-Linen, Jersey – Stretch 75/11, 90/14
Bed-Linen, Woven – Universal 70/10-100/16
Bouclé – Jersey 70/10-90/14
6
 JEANS

•Size: 70/10, 80/12,

90/14, 100/16, 110/18,
Assorted, Twin
•Color Code: Blue
•Feature: Modified
medium ball point and
reinforced blade.
•Fabric Use: Denim and
similar fabrics. Advanced
point design is a
SCHMETZ exclusive. For
penetrating extra thick
woven fabrics, denims, or
quilts with minimum needle deflection, reduced risk of
needle breakage and skipped stitches.

Needle & Fabric Recommendations

Brocade – Universal or Microtex 60/8-90/14
Cambric – Universal 60/8, 70/10
Canvas – Jeans 90/14-110/18
Chambray – Universal 80/12, 90/14
Chenille – Universal 90/14
Chiffon – Universal or Microtex 60/8, 70/10
Coated Material – Microtex 70/10-110/18
7
LEATHER

• Size: 70/10, 80/12,

90/14, 100/16, 110/18,
Assorted
• Color Code: Brown
• Feature: Cutting point.
• Fabric Use: Leather,
artificial leather, heavy
non-woven synthetics.
Do not use on knit or
woven fabrics.

Needle & Fabric Recommendations

Corduroy – Universal 80/12-100/16
Cotton, Knit – Jersey 70/10-90/14 or Stretch 75/11, 90/14
Cotton, Woven – Universal 70/10-90/14
Crepe – Universal or Microtex 60/8-80/12
Crepe-de-Chine – Universal or Microtex 60/8-80/12
Crinkle – Universal or Microtex 60/8-80/12

8
 MICROTEX

• Size: 60/8, 70/10, 80/12,

90/14, 100/16, 110/18,
Assorted
• Color Code: Purple
• Feature: Very slim acute
point.
• Fabric Use: Micro fibers,
polyester, silk, foils,
artificial leather, coated
materials. Very thin acute
point creates beautiful
topstitching and perfectly
straight stitches for quilt
piecing when precision is
paramount.

Needle & Fabric Recommendations

Denim – Jeans 70/10-110/18
Double-Face Woven – Universal 70/10-110/18
Elastic – Stretch 65/9-90/14
Felt – Universal 80/12-100/16
Flannel – Universal 80/12-110/18
Fleece – Universal 70/10-90/14 or Stretch 75/11, 90/14
9
QUILTING

• Size: 75/11, 90/14,

Assorted
• Color Code: Green
• Feature: Special taper to
the slightly rounded point.
• Fabric Use: Made
especially for piecing and
machine quilting. The
special tapered design
allows easier fabric
penetration and helps
eliminate skipped stitches.

Needle & Fabric Recommendations

Foils – Microtex 60/8-110/18
Fun Fur – Universal 70/10-100/16 or Jersey 70/11-90/14
Gabardine – Universal 70/10-100/16
Gauze – Jersey 70/10, 80/12
Georgette – Universal or Microtex 60/8-80/12
Jacquard – Universal 80/12-100/16
10
 EMBROIDERY

• Size: 75/11, 90/14,

Assorted, Twin
• Color Code: Red
• Feature: Light ball point,
wide eye and groove.
• Fabric Use: Use with
rayon, polyester and other
specialty embroidery
threads. The special scarf,
widened groove and
enlarged eye protect fragile
threads and guard against
excess friction allowing
trouble-free embroidery
and decorative stitching.

Needle & Fabric Recommendations

Jeans – Jeans 70/10-110/18 or Jeans Twin 4.0/100
Jersey – Jersey 60/8-80/12
Jersey with Elastic – Stretch 65/9-90/14
Knits – Jersey 70/10-100/16
Knits with Elastic – Jersey 70/10-100/16 or
Stretch 65/9, 75/11, 90/14

11
GOLD EMBROIDERY

• Size: 75/11, 90/14

• Feature: Titanium
Nitride coating, slightly
rounded point and
enlarged eye.
• Fabric Use: Coarse and
densely woven materials.
Slightly rounded point
and enlarged eye are
perfect for embroidery
on most fabrics and with
the most fragile specialty
threads. Titanium coating
resists adhesives, improves needle wear and penetration
of coarse and densely woven fabrics.

Needle & Fabric Recommendations

Lace – Select by Fabric Type 70/10-90/14
Lamé – Microtex 60/8-90/14
Leather, Thick & Artificial Leather – Leather 100/16-120/19
Leather, Thin – Leather or Universal 70/10-90/14
Lingerie – Stretch 65/9, 75/11, 90/14
or Jersey 70/10-90/14
Linen & Half-Linen – Universal 70/10-90/14
12
 METALLIC

• Size: 80/12, 90/14, Twin

• Feature: Elongated eye.
• Color Code: Pink
• Fabric Use: Metallic and
other specialty threads. A
“must have” for sewing
with sensitive metallic
threads. The elongated
eye prevents shredding
and breaking of metallic
threads.

Needle & Fabric Recommendations

Lycra – Stretch 65/9-90/14 or Jersey 70/10-90/14
Microfiber – Microtex 60-8-90/14
Nylon – Universal or Microtex 60/8-90/14
Oil Cloth – Microtex 80/12-100/16
Organdy – Universal or Microtex 60/8, 70/10
Organza – Universal or Microtex 60/8, 70/10
13
TOPSTITCH

• Size: 80/12, 90/14,

100/16
• Color Code: Light Green
• Feature: Extra long eye.
• Fabric Use: Topstitch,
heavy, multiple or poor
quality threads. Achieve
perfectly straight stitch
lines and even stitches
when using a straight
stitch plate.

Needle & Fabric Recommendations

Polyester – Universal or Microtex 60/8-100/16
Poplin – Microtex or Universal 60/8-80/12
Quilt – Quilting 75/11, 90/14 or Jeans 70/10-110/18
Rayon – Universal 70/10, 80/12
Seersucker – Universal 70/10-90/14
14
 HEMSTITCH

• Size: 100/16, 120/19,

Twin
• Feature: A wing on each
side of the needle.
• Fabric Use: Light or
medium weight loosely
woven fabrics. Popular for
heirloom sewing and to
create decorative
cutwork.

Needle & Fabric Recommendations

Sequined Fabric – Microtex 70/10-90/14 or
Stretch 75/11, 90/14
Silk – Microtex 60/8-90/14
Silk Jersey – Stretch 65/9, 75/11
Sweatshirt – Jersey 70/10-90/14
Taffeta – Microtex or Universal 60/8, 70/10
Terry Cloth – Universal 80/12, 90/14
15
DOUBLE EYE

• Size: 80/12
• Feature: Universal needle
with two eyes.
• Fabric Use: Numerous —
wovens and knits. Use
two different threads for
shading and texturing
effects for embroidery
and topstitching.

Needle & Fabric Recommendations

Thermovelour Fleece – Universal 70/10-90/14 or
Stretch 75/11, 90/14
Tulle – Universal or Jersey 70/10, 80/12
Twill – Jeans 70/10-110/18
Velour – Universal 70/10-100/16
Velour Jersey – Stretch 75/11, 90/14

16
 QUICK THREADING

• Size: 80/12, 90/14

• Feature: Universal needle
with a slip-in threading
slot in the eye.
• Fabric Use: Numerous —
wovens and knits. A
general purpose needle
for effortless threading.

Needle & Fabric Recommendations

Velvet – Stretch 75/11, 90/14 or Universal 70/10-90/14
Velvet Burn-Out – Stretch 65/9-90/14
Velvet Panne – Stretch 75/11 or Universal 70/10-80/12
Vinyl – Microtex 60/8-90/14
Voile – Universal 60/8-80/12
Waxed Cloth – Microtex 80/12-100/16
Wool & Wool Blends – Universal 70/10-100/16
17
NEEDLE ANATOMY

point

tip
groove
eye

blade

side view

Point and Tip: Length, shape and size vary according to

needle types.
Eye: The hole through which thread passes. The shape
and size vary according to needle type.
Scarf: Indentation above the eye that allows the bobbin
hook to smoothly grab the thread under the throat plate
to create a stitch.

18
 NEEDLE ANATOMY

Needle Eye Comparison

needle Universal
Needle
size

needle
type Metallic
Needle
Embroidery &
Needle Topstitch
Needle
size

shoulder
shank butt

Groove: Cradles and guides thread to the eye.

Blade: Needle size is determined by the blade diameter
(i.e., size 75 is .75mm)
Shoulder: Sloping area transitioning between the shank
and blade.
Shank: Household needles have a flat shank.
Butt: Beveled end.
19
20
21
ELx705 SERGER (OVERLOCK)

• Size: 80/12, 90/14,

Assorted
• Color Code: Black
• Feature: Designed for use
in electronic multi-purpose
sergers that do overlock
stitches. Not suitable for
use in home sewing
machines or embroidery
machines. Machines should
specify ELx705.

What inspires YOU to sew?

22
HIGH SPEED PROFESSIONAL QUILTING

• Size: 75/11, 90/14,

100/16
• Feature: A chrome-
plated, flat shank needle
(similar to 130/705 H)
designed specifically
for high-speed profes-
sional quilting machines
(i.e., Janome 1600 P
Series). This needle
features a short shank
and a slightly rounded
needle point with a shank
diameter of only 2 mm.
• Fabric Use: Suitable for all common materials — jersey,
denim, fancy fabrics, fake fur, etc.

Needles do not last forever.

Change YOUR needle!

23
TWIN & TRIPLE

Twin & Triple Needles

Twin Needles are available for most fabrics. Twin Needle
properties are equivalent to single needles. Use for
pintucks, topstitching, single and multi-colored decorative
seams and hems.

24
 STRETCH TWIN

• Size: 2.5/75, 4.0/75

• Feature: Two Stretch
needles mounted on one
shank create two rows of
stitches simultaneously.
• Fabric Use: Elastic
materials and highly
elastic knitwear.

System Designations
H Scarf, slightly S Stretch, medium
rounded point ball point
E Embroidery, light ZWI Twin
ball point DRI Triple
J Jeans, acute round WING Hemstitch
point ZWIHO Double Hemstitch
M Microfibre, acute LL Cutting point with
round point left twist
Q Quilting, slightly BR Twin needle, extra
rounded point wide
25
JEANS TWIN

• Size: 4.0/100
• Feature: Two Jeans
needles mounted on one
shank create two rows of
stitches simultaneously.
• Fabric Use: Denim and
similar extra-thick woven
fabrics.

Decorative Stitches
Suggested needles for creating decorative stitches:
Decorative — Double Eye 80/12
Jeans Stitch — Jeans 70/10-110/18, Twin 100
Embroidery — Embroidery 75/11, 90/14, GOLD
Embroidery 75/11, 90/14, Embroidery Spring 80/12

26
 METALLIC TWIN

• Size: 2.5/80, 3.0/90

• Feature: Two Metallic
needles mounted on one
shank create two rows of
stitches simultaneously.
• Fabric Use: Special effect
and fancy threads,
particularly for metallic
threads.

Decorative Stitches
Hemstitch — Hemstitch 110/18, 120/19 or Dbl. Hemstitch 100
Pintucks — Twin 60-100, NE 1.6-4.0
Twin Stitches — Choose needle type 70-100, NE 1.6-8.0
Triple Stitches — 2.5/80, 3.0/80
Topstitching — Topstitch 80/12-90/14 or Microtex 60/8-90/14
27
EMBROIDERY TWIN

• Size: 2.0/75, 3.0/75

• Feature: Two Embroidery
needles mounted on one
shank create two rows of
stitches simultaneously.
• Fabric Use: Use with
rayon, polyester, and
other specialty
embroidery threads.

Definitions
The following are frequently used needle terms:

NE — Distance between needles

NM — Needle size
130/705 H — Household needle with flat shank
and scarf, equivalent to 15x1 H (Japanese)
and 2020 (Singer).
28
 DOUBLE HEMSTITCH

• Size: 2.5/100
• Feature: A Wing needle
and a Universal needle
with a 2.5 mm separation
combined on a single
shank for decorative
stitching in dual rows.
• Fabric Use: Light or
medium weight loosely
woven fabrics; for
heirloom sewing and
decorative cutwork.

Serger/Overlock/Specialty Machines
SCHMETZ provides all needle systems (ELx705, BLx1,
DCx1) for domestic sergers and other special machines.
Many machines use system 130/705 H. Consult machine
owner’s manual and www.SCHMETZneedles.com.

29
UNIVERSAL TWIN

• Size: 1.6/70, 1.6/80,

2.0/80, 2.5/80, 3.0/90,
4.0/80, 4.0/90, 4.0/100,
Assorted
• Feature: Two Universal
needles mounted on one
shank create two rows of
stitches simultaneously.
• Fabric Use: Numerous —
wovens and knits.

Replace Your Needle

The rule of thumb is to change the needle after every
eight (8) hours of sewing or after each sewing project.
Changing the needle is the easiest way to improve stitch
quality!

30
 UNIVERSAL TWIN — WIDE

• Size: 6.0/100, 8.0/100

• Feature: Two Universal
needles mounted on one
shank create two rows of
stitches simultaneously.
• Fabric Use: Numerous —
wovens and knits.

Change Your Needle!

Worn or damaged needles result in:
• Broken or shredded threads
• Skipped or uneven stitches
• Puckered or damaged fabrics
• Popping sound made by sewing machine

31
UNIVERSAL TRIPLE

• Size: 2.5/80, 3.0/80

• Feature: Three Universal
needles mounted on one
shank create three rows
of stitches simultaneously.
• Fabric Use: Numerous.­­­

Your Sewing Machine is Only

as Good as the Needle Used!

32
 SPRING NEEDLES

• Feature: Has a spring

around the needle, which
assumes the function of
the presser foot.
• Fabric Use: Terrific for
free motion and embroi-
dery. Remove foot for
easy viewing of stitches.

• Denim — 100/16
• Embroidery — 75/11, 90/14
• Quilting — 75/11, 90/14
• Stretch — 75/11, 90/14
• Universal — 70/10, 80/12, 90/14

There’s an app for that!

Search SCHMETZ
33
WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE NEEDLE?

Ball Point/Jersey — 70/10, 80/12, 90/14, 100/16, Assorted

Denim — 70/10, 80/12, 90/14, 100/16, 110/18,
Assorted, Twin
Double Eye — 80/12
ELX705 Serger (Overlock) — 80/12, 90/14, Assorted
Embroidery — 75/11, 90/14, Assorted, Twin
Embroidery, Gold — 75/11, 90/14
Hemstitch — 100, 120, Twin
HLX5 — 75/11, 90/14, 100/16
Leather — 70/10, 80/12, 90/14, 100/16, 110/18, Assorted
Metallic — 80/12, 90/14
Microtex (Sharp) — 60/8, 70/10, 80/12, 90/14, 100/16,
110/18, Assorted
Quick Threading — 80/12, 90/14
Quilting — 75/11, 90/14, Assorted

Support your local retailer.

Buy SCHMETZ!

34
 WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE NEEDLE?

Stretch — 75/11, 90/14, Twin

Topstitch — 80/12, 90/14, 100/16
Universal — 60/8, 65/9, 70/10, 75/11, 80/12,
90/14, 100/16, 110/18, 120/19, Assorted, Twin, Triple
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Double Hemstitch — 2.5/100
Embroidery Twin — 2.0/75, 3.0/75
Jeans Twin — 4.0/100
Metallic Twin — 2.5/80, 3.0/90
Stretch Twin — 2.5/75, 4.0/75
Universal Triple — 2.5/80, 3.0/80
Universal Twin — 1.6/70, 1.6/80, 2.0/80, 2.5/80, 3.0/90,
4.0/80, 4.0/90, 4.0/100, 6.0/100, 8.0/100

www.SCHMETZneedles.com
Euro-Notions, Inc. ©2014. All Rights Reserved.

35
 $4.95

Dealer Stamp

#D-81

36
 Product information
The Domestic Sewing Machine Needle
A contribution of the SCHMETZ SERVICEHOUSE
In the last years, a rapid change took place on the material and
accessories market. The fabrics noticeably changed in material,
composition, structure and therefore also the requirements for
their handling changed. All industries connected with the
textile processing reacted on that and adapted their products to
the new requirements. Only with the right combination of all
components a perfect sewing result can be achieved. To
provide assistance for the correct needle choice, the company
SCHMETZ published the booklet „Needles for Household
Sewing Machines“ and the leaflet „Needle-ABC“ as consumer
information for interested users.
The development of the needle through history
The needle was one of humankind's first tools. Over the
centuries it developed from a simple craft item to the precision
tool for sewing machines. The most ancient sewing needles
(28,000 BC) had a split end which gripped the thread to be
sewn (often raffia, gut or sinew). Needles from later than
17,500 BC already had the two characteristic features of the
hand sewing needle today, the eye at one end and the tapered
point at the other end.
The needle in modern times
The invention of the sewing machine gave rise to the
development of the sewing machine needle. From 1755, the
most different needle forms were developed, which partly are
still in use until today. Around 1800, B. Krems (from Mayen,
Germany) used, for the first time, a needle which had the eye
moved close to the point. This eye-point needle paved the way
for the mechanisation of sewing world-wide. Through
permanent further improvement of the simple hand sewing
needle, the precision tool sewing machine needle was
developed. In the year 1953, the metric size designation was
determined, for which the abbreviation NM was introduced.
This „number metric“ indicates the diameter of the needle
blade in hundredths of a millimetre measured above the scarf
or the short groove, but not at any reinforced part of the blade.
A sewing machine needle with a blade diameter of 0.80 mm
therefore corresponds to NM 80.
Description and manufacture of the sewing machine needle UNIVERSAL NEEDLE, 130/705 H
A sewing machine needle consists of the elements NM 60, 65, 70, 75, 80, 90, 100, 110, 120
- Shank: There are round shanks and flat shanks.
- Blade with groove: The groove guides the needle thread to
the eye. The diameter of the used thread should have
maximum 40% of the needle’s thickness.
- Scarf: It supports the hook to pick up the sewing thread
loop.
- Point and eye: The point shape is relevant for the
application of the sewing machine needle.
shank
blade groove
eye
point
scarf
Fig. 1: Description of a SCHMETZ sewing machine needle
A SCHMETZ sewing machine needle passes through up to
35 stages of production. After each production stage there is a
semi- or fully automated check.
The single processes are permanently optimised by the use of
innovative technologies.
Needle systems for household sewing machines
The most used needle system for household machines is
130/705 H (H=Hohlkehle in German, means with scarf). All
needles of system 130/705 H have a flattened shank for perfect
positioning of the needle in the needle bar and in relation to the
point of the hook. The special needles differ in size, point
shape and eye. The groove is adapted to the needle size and
guarantees the friction free guidance of the thread through the
material. The scarf supports the hook to pick up the needle
thread loop correctly.
The selection of the correct needle size and point shape has a
big influence on the sewing result. The choice of the optimum
needle depends on the material to be sewn, its thickness and the
intended sewing process (sewing, topstitching, embroidering,
etc.). The following gives an overview about the most
important needle systems:
The UNIVERSAL NEEDLE has a
slightly rounded point and is
suitable for trouble-free sewing of
most materials.
Fig. 2: UNIVERSAL NEEDLE
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EMBROIDERY NEEDLE, 130/705 H-E threads. These needles are also used for machine embroidery or
NM 75, 90 free motion embroidery in problematic materials.
The EMBROIDERY NEEDLE is suitable for the problem-free
embroidering with the sewing machine. It has a large eye for MICROTEX NEEDLE, 130/705 H-M
thicker threads, special effect or metallic embroidery threads NM 60, 70, 80, 90
(e. g. Lurex threads). It also has a small ball point. With very slim, acute point for easier
Larger eye and larger cross-section of the groove: For easier piercing of very fine or densely
threading as well as gentle thread passage through eye and woven fabrics. The stitch hole is
groove => Protective effect on embroidery thread: Prevents smaller and seam puckering is
thread breakage. reduced. Achieves precise and
Optimised scarf: The special construction of the transition from straight stitches (e. g. topstitching of
the eye to the scarf reduces the risk of skip stitches. edges) due to the point shape.
Small ball point: Avoids damages of the (already embroidered)
Application: Very fine or densely
embroidery thread and the fabric.
woven fabrics like silk, woven
Application: Embroidering with embroidery threads and effect
microfibre, foil.
threads using decorative techniques as well as the embroidering
with the embroidery unit.

Fig. 6: MICROTEX NEEDLE

JEANS NEEDLE, 130/705 H-J

Fig. 3: EMBROIDERY Fig. 4: Detail of Bavarian
NEEDLE jacket
METALLIC-NEEDLE, 130 MET (MET=Metallic)
NM 80, 90, 100
Developed specially for metal
effect thread, with very long eye
(2 mm in all needle sizes) in
relation to the needle thickness.
The eye is even longer than in
needle system 130/705 H-E (for
embroidering) and remains the
same in all needle sizes. The longer
eye and the special groove allows
the thread to glide easily and gently
through the needle (and therefore
prevent thread breakage).
Tip: Slow down sewing speed
when using metallic threads or
Fig. 5: METALLIC Lurex effect threads.
NEEDLE
TOPSTITCH NEEDLE, 130N
= 130 MET
NM 80, 90, 100
The longer eye and the special groove offer space for thicker
topstitching threads or for the use of two all-purpose sewing
NM 70, 80, 90, 100, 110
With slim, acute point for easier
penetration of thick fabrics and
with reinforced blade, which causes
less deflection of the needle. The
special shape of the scarf reduces
the risk of skip stitches.
Application: For jeans (denim) and
similar solid fabrics, workwear,
artificial leather, waxed cloth vinyl.
Tip: If many layers of washed
jeans material have to be sewn, the
use of the correct needle size is
important. Additionally, knocking
Fig. 7: JEANS
of the material with a hammer in
NEEDLE
the intended seam line helps. Wrap
the hammer with fabric so that it does not damage the material
to be sewn.
QUILTING NEEDLE, 130/705 H-Q
NM 75, 90
With slim, acute point, which is
slightly rounded in order to penetrate
thick layers of material easier during
quilting by machine. Achieves
accurate seams in quilting where
many seams frequently cross each
other and avoids damage in sensitive
and often expensive materials used
in patchwork.
Application: Patchwork and quilting
Fig. 8: QUILTING NEEDLE

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EMBROIDERY SPRING NEEDLE, 130/705 H SPR
NM 80
An EMBROIDERY NEEDLE with a spring
around the needle. The spring assumes the function
of the presser foot, i.e. the material is pressed down
to avoid the fluttering of the material. The
EMBROIDERY SPRING NEEDLE is used for
embroidering in a frame without a presser foot.
This allows individual patterns and free motion
during sewing.
Fig. 9: EMBROIDERY SPRING NEEDLE
HEMSTITCH NEEDLE, 130/705 H WING
NM 100, 120
With a “wing” on each side of the
needle blade which pushes the fabric
aside. This needle is used for
hemstitching in loosely woven
fabrics like cambric and linen.
Application: for decorative seams
and hemstitching
Fig. 10: HEMSTITCH NEEDLE
TWIN and TRIPLE NEEDLES
(only for machines with transversal hook)
The properties of these needles are equivalent to the respective alternative. The needle thread is guided in a flat angle through
single needles.
Application: Pintucks, single and multicoloured seams, hems
Fig. 11: left: DOUBLE HEMSTITCH NEEDLE,
right: TRIPLE NEEDLE
Patchwork and Quilting
As a balance to the modern hectic society the employment with
old craftsmanship traditions revives more and more and thus
helps to preserve the techniques and knowledge, to develop and
to reanimate them. The creation of patchwork and quilts enjoys
great popularity. Today, patchwork and quilting can be done
completely by hand as well as with the sewing machine or even
both together.
The use of a sewing machine places special demands on the
quality and properties of the materials. Only if material, sewing
thread, interfacing and the needle are optimally adjusted to
each other, the creative idea will be converted into outstanding
results. If only one of the components is changed, the
interaction between the individual parts changes, too, and
influences the total result. So the sewing thread, for instance,
should be of good quality, it should not show any unevenness
or knots and it should glide through the eye without wear of
friction. Never use hand quilting threads on the sewing
machine! However , the selection of the correct needle plays a
very decisive role for an optimal sewing result.
The co-operation of fabric and correct needle
The material with its different colours and qualities is the
starting point of the work. Usually, a stable, fine cotton fabric
is used for a quilt. A UNIVERSAL NEEDLE (130/705 H) of
size NM 70 and NM 80 is appropriate to it. If the fabric is
mixed with fibres of unknown origin, a MICROTEX NEEDLE
(130/705 H-M) of size NM 80 or NM 90 should be preferred.
Due to its especially slim point, it is possible to sew silk and
materials of the most different synthetic blends without seam
puckering. Select the needle size as small as possible so that
the stitch hole is completely filled by the sewing thread.
The right choice to sew or quilt difficult seams with a lot of
seam allowances is the QUILTING NEEDLE (130/705 H-Q),
which was developed especially for quilting. The very slim,
slightly rounded point allows the needle to glide through all
material layers easily without damaging the material. If there
are still problems, the TOPSTITCH NEEDLE (130N) is an
the longer eye and enables a correct interlocking of the needle
and bobbin thread through all layers of material. For decorative
seams with metallic threads, the METALLIC NEEDLE
(130 MET) is especially suitable. Metallic threads require a
very careful handling, because they place high demands on the
manufacturing process. The 2 mm long eye of the
METALLIC NEEDLE (130 MET) permits a trouble-free
guidance of the metallic thread.
In order to carry out a successful work, the needle has to be
replaced regularly. Only a damage-free needle point permits to
sew in professional quality and avoids thread breakage. In the
future, pay more attention to your needle – the high quality and
effect of your work will be visible.
Fig. 12: Detail
Further information available at:
Ferd. Schmetz GmbH SERVICEHOUSE
Bicherouxstr. 53-59, 52134 Herzogenrath, Germany
Phone: +49 (0)2406 / 85-185, Fax: +49 (0)2406 / 85-186
Internet: http://www.schmetz.com, E-Mail: servicehouse@schmetz.com
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SCHMETZ Household Needles

Eye comparison between UNIVERSAL-, EMBROIDERY and METALLIC NEEDLE

130/705 H 130/705 H-E 130 MET

UNIVERSAL EMBROIDERY METALLIC
NEEDLE NEEDLE NEEDLE
 Needle Life

One of the most asked questions I have experienced during the years of travelling and giving
needle seminars to the apparel industry is: How long does a sewing machine needle last?
Interestingly enough people from the shoe and leather industry where they really put wear
and tear on the needle never asked me this question.
Generally my answer is: Between one minute and one month.
It can happen that you change a sewing machine needle because it was broken, start the
machine and within the next moment the needle breaks again.

These two pictures have one thing in common. On the left side you can see the Taipei 101
Tower (508 m, 1667 ft.) compared to a normal sewing machine needle. The ratio of thickness
to length is approximately the same. Everybody has an imagination of how difficult it is to
construct a tower like the Taipei 101 and to make it rigid and stable in order to withstand
heavy winds and earthquakes. The same applies to a sewing machine needle. But the
sewing machine needle besides the bending resistance has one additional force to bear
which is the penetration force, i.e. the load which is put on top of it by the sewing machine in
order to be able to penetrate the sewing good.
From this comparison it becomes very clear that a sewing machine needle really is a piece of
engineering artwork. On the other side it is clear as well that the needle – if treated the
wrong way or overloaded – will be destroyed and end its life.

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 There are as many parameters influencing needle life as there are sewing factories on this
planet! Literally!

So let us ask what needle life means and which parameters are influencing the life of a
sewing machine needle.

1 Definition of Needle Life

During the sewing process different forces and influences are attacking the sewing machine
needle. There might be

• Abrasive forces
• Penetration force
• Influence of operator
• Influence of sewing thread
• Influence of sewing machine

to name a few. Everyone of these forces and influences are the enemies of needle life. They
might destroy the point, abrase the needle surface or even break the needle. Some of these
influences and forces and their effects are directly visible, e.g. if you get holes in your fabric
something has happened to the needle point or if the thread breaks there might be damage
to the eye of the sewing machine needle.

As a general definition of the end of needle life we can say

The life of a sewing machine

needle has come to an end when
the needle looses its proper
function.

2 Parameters influencing Needle Life

In the previous paragraph we already named a few influencing factors on needle life. If we
look closer we will find the following parameters

• sewing good
• operator
• machine setting
• machine speed
• thread quality
• thread size
• needle size
• needle point

besides other parameters being specific to every plant like climate, work environment and
others. All these parameters are of influence to the needle life and are very individual to
every sewing factory.

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 If we just take the operator as one of the most influencing factors on needle performance we
can see that the skills and work experience is a significant parameter. But also here the
human factor comes in because not everyday the operator works the same depending on the
physical and mental condition. If you put two operators side by side sewing the same
workpiece under the same outer conditions like same machine, same speed etc. it can
happen that the results are very different, especially when we look into the needle
consumption.

From all these influencing parameters it becomes very clear now that they cannot be
predetermined because they are individual to the specific sewing factory. Almost every
factory has different conditions and setups even if they make the same product.

3 Examples

Broken needle points because the

needle has touched some machine
parts.
The fabric never would cause this type
of fault.

Abrasion on eye sidewall because the needle was

deflected during sewing and was touching the sides of the
needle hole in the throat plate

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 Total abrasion of eye sidewall. The eye is open. This
happened with a very abrasive sewing good
containing a flame-retardant chemical.

4 How to find your individual needle life

As the manufacturer of the sewing machine needle we are not able to give a prediction of
needle life for the individual plant because it is impossible to know all your individual factors.
But a lot of sewing factories have the data available or are able to find the data for every
sewing line or even for every sewing machine. It just is a matter of about a month collecting
data for every needle change, log the data and categorize by reason for the needle change.

This will give a good basis for quality improvement because if you have these data you will
be able to implement a needle change policy in your factory as already a lot of the high
quality manufacturers do. You will have the possibility now to change the needle before it
starts to abrase or before the needle point gets damaged.

5 Hints

• The operator should check the needle point regularly for damage. This can be done
with the fingernail of the pointing finger or with a piece of nylon stocking. The best
effect is achieved if the check is done every hour.

• This check is essential when you are sewing knitwear because only this measure
together with a needle change policy will maintain a good quality garment.

Herzogenrath, Germany
October 2006-10-22
Horst Gruchow
Technical Services Manager

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Needle size designations
In 1942, uniform needle sizes were fixed. A metric size designation under the
abbreviation NM was introduced to replace the 40 or so different size designations in
use at that time. This “Number metric” indicates the diameter of the needle blade in
hundredths of a millimetre measured above the scarf or the short groove, but not at
any reinforced part of the blade. A sewing machine needle with a blade diameter of
0.80 mm therefore corresponds to NM 80 and a needle with a blade diameter of
1.30 mm to NM 130.

However, other size numbers are still in use today. The comparison table below
shows the corresponding needle sizes:
Quick Threading Needle
Information

This close-up image illustrates the concept behind the Quick Threading
Needle. The Quick Threading Needle is the same as the Universal Needle
except for the small threading slot in the eye. This threading slot supports
quick and easy threading of the needle. The needle is threaded by drawing
the needle thread over the surface of the right side of the needle until it
slides into the eye by itself. It is not necessary to change the thread tension.
Like the Universal Needle, it can be used for many fabrics.

Please do not use the Quick Threading Needle for sensitive fabrics (i.e., silk,
microfibre, etc.) as the slot might create pulled threads. It should also not be
used for quilting as fibers of the batting might be pulled out.

The thickness of the sewing thread being used should be adapted to the
needle size. If the sewing thread is too fine (thin), it might slip out of the
needle eye. If the sewing thread is too heavy (thick), it might break frequently.