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An Inside Look at Pump Testing

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by Allan Burnham

In most communities the first

truck out the door to a reported
incident is an engine. These
engines are equipped with
pumps, hose, water and an
assortment of specialized tools
necessary to perform a host of
emergency functions. Should a
pumper be required to supply
Search News large quantities of water, it will
need to hook up to a municipal hydrant system or draft from a nearby
water source. To insure these pumpers perform from year to year at
Search
their rated capacity, the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) has
developed definitive pump testing standards along with step-by-step
Product
Catalogs are procedures on how to perform these specified tests and interpret the
available in results. These results are then subject to review by insurance rating
PDF or by agencies, such as the Insurance Services Office, Inc. (ISO), a private
request mail on organization that provides services to insurance companies by rating
the contact
FRC page. the fire suppression capability of a community. This is done on a 100
point system, of which 50 points is fire department related. All this
determines the classification of the department, which can affect the
Connect with us on insurance rates for the community.
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ISO, like NFPA, requires annual pump testing to receive full credit in
this area. Although in-service pump testing has been required for as

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 long as the fire pump has been around, it’s amazing how many fire
departments have never tested the fire pumps on their apparatus. Even
more amazing is how many firefighters have never operated or
witnessed a pumping engine at draft. Some departments have defined
maintenance schedules and driver/operators perform daily and weekly
FRC Features operational maintenance inspections on a routine basis. However, the
Contact FRC reality is most departments only exercise the valves and controls on
these engines from one fire to the next. Unfortunately, the fire ground
Why Choose FRC? is not the place to be testing your pumps. Virtually every firehouse you
Product Change walk into today has an engine with a pump leaking water on the floor,
Notices discharge and relief valves that won’t open or operate, primers not
Interactive Electronic working, drain valves leaking, leaky or broken pressure gauges, and
Technical Manuals assorted plumbing leaks. These are all areas that need to be inspected
on a periodic basis, or at the very least annually, prior to running the
Pricing (login)
pump service test.
FRC Archives
HOW TO GET STARTED
video
Prior to performing the actual pump test, there are a number of
commentary articles
inspections and preliminary tests that need to be conducted to verify
new products the pump’s condition is fit to run the test. For anyone not familiar with
FRC on facebook the process of pump testing, there are several industry reference
guides, manuals and standards available that provide step-by-step
FRC on YouTube
instructions on what to inspect and how to perform the appropriate
FRC on Twitter tests.

NFPA 1911 (Standard for the Inspection, Maintenance, Testing and

Retirement of In-Service Automotive Fire Apparatus, 2007 Edition) has
been expanded for 2007 and now incorporates the previous NFPA 1914
(Standard for Testing Fire Department Aerial Devices) and NFPA 1915
(Standard for Fire Apparatus Preventative Maintenance Program). The
International Fire Service Training Association (IFSTA) also has
published a 2006 second edition of Pumping Apparatus Driver/Operator
Handbook. This manual contains 16 chapters that provide an in-depth
look into the responsibilities of firefighters assigned to drive and
operate fire department vehicles equipped with a fire pump. Pump
theory and accepted pump test methods are covered in illustrated detail
along with tables, sample vehicle inspection forms and sample forms for
recording the results of all tests conducted. Short of some practical

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 experience and a few pieces of specialized test equipment, this is all
you need to get started.

Although some of these inspections and tests can be conducted by

qualified driver/operators, there are a few critical inspections and tests
that should be performed by trained professionals with previous
experience in pump testing. There are industry service centers available
in just about every location across the country that test hundreds of
pumps every year. They usually employ ASE and EVT certified
technicians who are very capable of running any of the required tests,
and in most cases supply all the specialized test equipment needed.
These tests will require the apparatus to perform at maximum capacity,
which it doesn’t do on a day-to-day basis. Should an unexpected
condition present itself during the actual test, these technicians know
what to look for, how to react quickly in correcting any encountered
problems, prevent or minimize any damage, and make sure the results
are properly documented for rating agencies like ISO.

PRELIMINARY INSPECTIONS

There are a few essential preliminary inspections that need to be

performed prior to actually running the pump test itself. NFPA 1911,
Chapter 9, (Inspection and Maintenance of Water Pumping Systems and
Water Tanks) gives you a good overview of the systems and
components that need to be inspected, tested or adjusted prior to
running the test.

Verify that all fluids in the pump drive system, primer (if
equipped) and gear case are at the proper level.
Verify that all pump shift controls operate smoothly, that all
interlock mechanisms engage properly and pilot lights are
working.
Verify that all discharge and intake valve controls operate
smoothly including the transfer valve and relief valve (if
equipped).
Engage pump and inspect pump packing or mechanical seals,
adjust or replace (when necessary) in accordance with
manufacturer’s recommendations.

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 With pump engaged, inspect plumbing and gauge lines for leaks
and verify that all gauges and instruments are registering
accurately. Also, verify that primer valve control and motor are
functioning properly.

There are several other inspections that can be conducted and are
usually performed under a complete pump service inspection. However,
as long as you have performed these few simply inspections and made
whatever adjustments were required, you are now ready to head to the
test site.

SELECTING THE TEST SITE

(below 2000 feet elevation)

First you will need to determine if you are going to test from a
pressurized water source or a static source. The more people you talk
to, the more you realize everyone has their own idea about the method
used for testing pumps, which in some cases can influence the decision
on where the test should be conducted. Some departments and service
centers use long standing in-ground test pits with 20,000 to 40,000
gallons of water. Others may use what they call portable tanks (Fold-a-
tanks and Port-a-tanks). Portable tanks are quite popular and all used
successfully. The problem with portable tanks is controlling the water
turbulence coming back into the tank while pumping at capacity and
maintaining the water temperature below 90 °F over a sustained period
of time. There are also a few testing companies currently developing
and experimenting with specially constructed water pump test trailers.
Although these companies claim their methods offer the best solution,
there are always pros and cons to every solution. All you really need to
keep in mind is that its always preferable to keep the water source
below the pump (from draft) whenever possible. All things being equal,
this usually will produce the truest test of a pump’s capability.

However, this theory wouldn’t be true when testing from a hydrant. Yes,
according to NFPA, pump testing from a hydrant is permitted. Just
make sure you select an area that provides ample space for discharging
the water, and verify the hydrant is capable of flowing the rated
capacity of the pump. Also remember, when testing from a hydrant you
must add the static pressure of the hydrant to the net pump pressure.

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 For example; when you open the hydrant and realize a static pressure
of 70 PSI, this means when running the capacity test at a rated
pressure of 150 PSI, the net pump pressure would now be 220 PSI.
This is all well and good until you get to the 50% test. With a rated
pressure of 250 PSI the net pump pressure would now become 320 PSI.
At this pressure you start to approach the rated capacity of the
plumbing and any weak links start to give way, like pipe plugs, corroded
pipe threads, tubing and fittings, etc.

SET-UP AND PREPARATION

Setting up for the actual test takes a little forethought to be sure the
apparatus is positioned to maximize the length of the suction and
discharge lines. Depending on how the site sets up, it’s preferable to
keep the operator’s panel on the opposite side from the suction hose
whenever possible. You also need to be close enough to the water
source to prevent having more than 20 feet of suction hose above the
surface of the water. If you are using a natural water source, it usually
helps to place a 14 or 16 foot roof ladder under the suction hose to
provide support and keep it elevated off the bottom of the water
source. You will need to attach an appropriately sized strainer at the
end of the suction hose and strap it off to the ladder as well. Floating
strainers can be used, but must be submerged at least 2 feet below the
surface. (Appropriately sized strainers should have 2 to 3 times the
open area of the suction hose being used.)

When attaching the suction hose to the pump you should use the side
inlets whenever possible. Front suctions and rear intakes should be
avoided as they usually are too restrictive to achieve adequate flow. It’s
also necessary to remove any suction or piston intake valves prior to
hooking up the suction hose. These valves also are too restrictive and
will not allow you to reach full capacity. Tables contained in NFPA 1911,
Chapter 18, provide you with all the suction hose requirements for size,
number and maximum lift depending on the size pump you are testing.

Once you go to 1500 gallons, the table indicates you need to use two
(2) 6 inch suction hoses. Typical set-ups are seen with a 6 inch suction
hose off each side. In most cases this is just not practical where the
second hose usually has to run under the truck. There are companies
using a specialized 6 inch wye manufactured by Kochek Company of

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 Putnam, CT with two (2) 6 inch suction inlets that allow two (2) suction
hoses to be connected off one side.

Test data shows that the vacuum required in this case is cut in half. As
a reference, when your vacuum approaches 15 inches mercury, you will
start to lose pump pressure and will be forced to abandon the test.
Remember, the whole secret to running a successful pump test is
getting enough water into the pump.

Determining what to use for a discharge appliance can result in several

options. Basically, there are only two (2) types of appliances capable of
handling the heavy water streams associated with pump testing. There
are portable monitors that can be set on the ground or on a fixed

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 platform. These monitors are limited in the fact that most are only
rated at 1250 GPM. There are also high capacity fixed monitors that are
attached to trucks and trailers equipped with high capacity flow meter
tubes, pitot gauges and a number of interchangeable smooth bore tips.

Permanently affixed “deck

guns” also can be used. If you
intend to use the pre-piped
deck gun on the truck, it’s
helpful to determine the rated
capacity of the gun.
Remember most monitors
being mounted on engines
today are demountable for
portable operation and are
rated only for 1250 GPM. Due
to the manufacturer’s rating,
caution should be exercised
whenever these appliances
are used above 1250 GPM.
Although, certain type
monitors probably will flow higher capacities than they are rated for,
serious vibration will be encountered which can raise several safety
concerns and equipment damage. Testing pumps in excess of 1250 GPM
will require a larger rated monitor or setting up an additional monitor
where water flows can be captured from both monitors and added
together. Getting water to these appliances is usually accomplished with
appropriately sized discharge hoses. Any combination of 2-1/2, 3 or 4
inch hose in 50 foot lengths will move enough water to allow you to test
pumps up to 2000 GPM. The last thing you need to hook up is an
independent set of calibrated test gauges which thread into tests ports
on the pump panel. Remember, these gauges need to be calibrated
within 60 days preceding the test. It’s also helpful to have an RPM
counter (when connections are available) to verify engine RPM within 50
RPM.

PERFORMING THE TEST

With the hook-up complete, there are a few last minute considerations
prior to actually flowing water. With the truck properly chalked, start

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 the engine and engage the pump. Prior to engaging the primer, verify
the pressure relief valve (on non-electronic engines) is set above 250
PSI so as not to restrict the pump’s ability to reach capacity. On
electronic engines, select the RPM mode on the engine governor control
panel so the throttle can be advanced manually.

If the truck has a 2-stage pump, you will need to verify that the
transfer valve is in the proper mode (volume or pressure) and make
sure all discharge and drain valves are closed. Locate the pump
manufacturer’s test plate (usually somewhere on the pump panel).
Make a mental note of the engine RPM for the particular test your
running. Once the test is started and you have reached the proper
pump and nozzle pressure, you want to make note of the engine RPM,
which should not be more than 100 RPM higher than the original test
plate reading.

The first test you’ll be running is the 100% capacity test. The net pump
pressure you want to achieve for this test is 150 PSI. As an example,
we’ll assume the pump is a 1000 GPM 2 stage pump. According to the
flow chart table listed in NFPA 1911, the smooth bore nozzle on the
discharge monitor would have to be 2 inches in diameter. At a nozzle
pressure of 72 PSI and a net pump pressure of 150 PSI you will be
flowing water at a rate of 1008 GPM. Now open the tank-to-pump valve
for a few seconds until you see water bubbling up from the inlet strainer
and then close the valve. This will flood the suction hose and flush any
debris out of the strainer that may have collected during the hook-up.
Now raise the throttle to around 1000 RPM and pull the primer control.
This is an area where methods may differ on whether to raise the
throttle or not. Some people like to prime the pump with the engine
speed at idle. Either method is acceptable as long as you can stay
within the priming time standard. You should time this function and
record it on the pump test record sheet. Within a matter of 30 to 45
seconds, depending on the size of the pump, all the air should have
been exhausted and replaced with water. You should have noticed the
vacuum gauge reading going up as well as the pressure gauge reading.
Slowly open the first discharge line (in the case of 2) to the monitor and
let the water pressure stabilize. Then open the second line. Now
advance the throttle until you reach 150 PSI on the test gauge. Verify
the nozzle pressure of 72 PSI or the flow rate of 1000 GPM by use of
the in line pitot gauge or a flowmeter.

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 If the nozzle pressure reading is too high, you may not even need the
second line. Once you’ve reached the correct pressures you want to
verify the engine RPM is not over the plate reading by more than 10
percent. With everything in limits, you need to run this test for 20 min.
At the end of this test you can run the overload test, which is nothing
more than raising the net pump pressure to 165 PSI and holding it
there for 5 minutes.

The next test is at 70% of capacity, which is 700 gallons a minute.

You’ll only need one discharge line for this test, and will need to change
the nozzle to 1-3/4″ reduce the throttle back to idle and close the
discharge valves. Change the nozzle, open the discharge line and ramp
the throttle back up. You should be able to accomplish this without
losing your prime. This test is run at 200 PSI net pump pressure at a
nozzle pressure of 60 PSI. The difference with this test is you have the
choice to run the test in either volume or pressure. Most test plates on
the pump panel say either/or. The general rule of thumb here is
anytime you are running a pump at better than 50% capacity, you
should be in volume. This theory is also being taught at most state
firefighter academies. In order to reach 200 PSI net pump pressure
without exceeding the 60 PSI nozzle pressure, you will have to gate
back the discharge line. Run your throttle up to about 150 PSI and then
gate the discharge line back until you reach the 200 PSI. Now verify the
reading on the pitot gauge is at 60 PSI and the engine RPM’s are within
limits. You will only need to run this test for 10 minutes.

The final test is at 50% of capacity, which is 500 gallons a minute.

Again you’ll only need one discharge line for this test, and you will need
to change the nozzle to 1-1/2″.

Follow the same procedure as the 70% test except this test is run at
250 PSI net pump pressure at a nozzle pressure of 60 PSI. The only
other difference in this test, in the case of a 2 stage pump is to move

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 the transfer valve to the pressure mode. This test is also only runs for
10 minutes.

Now that you’ve completed the last test, as you decrease the throttle
stop at 150 PSI and reset the pressure relief valve if equipped.

It’s important to remember that suction and discharge valves should

always be opened and closed slowly to avoid water hammer and
possible pump damage. The throttle also should be advanced and
decreased slowly as well to avoid any unintentional shock, and allow
any entrained air to dissipate.

Hopefully this has cleared up some myths about pump testing and has
provided you with a little more information on the need for conducting
annual pump tests.

Al Burnham
Consultant & Master Technician
FEMCO
Fire & Emergency Maintenance Co. LLC
Lynnfield, Massachusetts

THIS ENTRY WAS POSTED ON TUESDAY, JUNE 1ST, 2010 AT 12:00 PM AND IS FILED
UNDER COMMENTARY ARTICLES. THERE ARE 11 RESPONSES TO “AN INSIDE LOOK AT
PUMP TESTING” :

Tom Duross Says:

November 26th, 2010 at 3:08 am

I’ve begun venturing into this area of testing after spending 20 years
testing interior fire pumps in buildings. My plan was to use my FRC digital
flowmeters from the engine to short hoses with my hosemonster diffusers
set in the break tank and recirculate. My only unknown is how large a
break tank will I need to keep turbulance from effecting the strainer on
the suction line to the pump.

Al Burnham Says:
November 30th, 2010 at 6:51 pm

In answer to Tom’s question, I might not be the right person to ask. I do

not use a portable tank for pump testing, so I don’t have a lot of

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 experience when it comes to the water dynamics present in a portable
tank. From what I’ve seen, you want to keep the suction strainer as far
away from the returning discharge water as possible. Most of the portable
tanks I’ve seen are at least 3000 Gallons in size. He would be better to
ask someone that uses a porable tank for testing pumps on a regular
basis.

Al Burnham, FEMCO

Brian Franz Says:

December 1st, 2010 at 7:44 am

Tom,

Our service department only does portable testing. We use the FRC
flowmeter and it works pretty good. We built our own diffuser system,
and usually use a 3000 gallon fold a tank. If it’s above a 1500 gpm pump
we use our 4000 gallon tank however. With 2000gpm our 3000 gallon
tank heats up to quick, and with the 4000 tank we can perform test after
test.

Good Luck.
Brian Franz
Franco Fire Equipment LLC

tom Says:
March 31st, 2011 at 1:03 pm

during the pump test if you are returning water to the port a tank , you
will encounter air entrained in the water and cause loss of w.p. as a result
of the air being compressed, when we test from a storage tank we need
about 30000 gallons to complete the service test accurately.

Al Kloha Says:
April 4th, 2011 at 12:01 pm

We have been doing pump tests with a portable tank for many years. We
do up to 1750 pumps with a 2100 gallon tank. We have our own diffuser
that sits over the tank and drops the water back into the tank. We do not
have any problems with air bubbles. We use a dry hydrant setup for the
intake. The water will not heat up with one 1750 test but we monitor the
temperature and ass cold water if needed.

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 Don’t forget to test the pressure control device at 90#, 150# and 250#
pressure. The pressure cannot increase more than 30# when the
discharge lines are closed slowly. Also check the discharge gauges for
accuracy and repair or replace as needed.
Al Kloha
Master EVT
Circle K Service
Midland MI

David Petty Says:

May 12th, 2011 at 5:08 am

While testing you can overflow the porta – tank and this will relieve the
heating problem. if using a flow meter you can set flow during test then
crack your hydrant and watch were GPM settles then maintain that level.

John Lockamy Says:

June 14th, 2011 at 5:47 am

Older 1500 GPM pumps could flow capcity with 6″ hose on one side but
newer pumps today will not. I have tryed using a 3″ hose on the auxiliary
intake and it will work but the vacuum is high. Using the 6″ wye does it
work OK before I purchase a wye?

Dale Alexander Says:

June 23rd, 2011 at 8:11 pm

Who would agree that we measure the work load on a pump based on the
amount of vacuum pulled at 100% capacity? Who would agree with me
that we use water below grade because the pump has to overcome
gravity to “pull” the water in? So, if one can accomplish an equal work
load on a pump (based on vacuum) with a portable system then should it
not be considered an equal test as one performed with water from below
garde? I look forward to hearing everyones thoughts.

Dale Alexander
Lonestar Fire Specialties

vincent f. strzelelcki Says:

July 21st, 2011 at 6:29 am

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 yes i agree vaccum is vaccum

Tom Duross Says:

November 7th, 2015 at 3:13 pm

This winter I plan to complete 1911, 1071 and 1901 training and upgrade
my DL to CDL as I don’t get a pass from the RMV. I’ve spoken to quite a
few people actively involved in vehicle testing and I think 2) 3000 fold a
tanks with connectors will do the trick for a 1250 gpm pumper. I think
between the 5 FRC portable flow testers I own and using submerged
hosemonster diffusers it just might work great drawing from one tank and
discharging into the other.

The Importance of Annual Fire Apparatus Pump Testing Says:

February 21st, 2017 at 12:35 pm

[…] life-threatening problems. The National Fire Protection Association

(NFPA) issues fire pump testing requirements and detailed procedures for
performing these […]

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