Learn to

LEARN TO STITCH BEADED JEWELRY

Stitch
Beaded
Simple Stitching,
Jewelry
Fantastic Results
New to beadweaving? Author and
teacher Marla Salezze makes it easy
to create fun, fashionable bracelets,
pendants, necklaces, earrings, and more.
With clear instructions and colorful
illustrations, Learn to Stitch Beaded
Jewelry guides the beginner through
each project. Explore the possibilites
with nine popular bead stitches, making
pieces you’ll love to wear.

Includes:

50+ projects you'll love to make!

• 50+ how-to jewelry projects, all with
complete step-by-step instructions Learn through doing with
and illustrations
50+ easy-to-stitch
• Tips and tricks to guide new beaders
through each project
jewelry projects
• Helpful information about tools and
supplies to get you started
SALEZZE
• Inventive designs to excite beginners
and experienced beaders alike

67908 $22.99
CAN $23.99
ISBN 978-1-62700-506-7
52299

9 781627 005067 0 64465 17908 4

www.JewelryandBeadingStore.com
Marla Salezze

BKS-67908-CV_1, 4.indd All Pages 6/29/18 10:34 AM

BKS-67908-00.indd 2 6/29/18 10:34 AM
 Learn to
Stitch
Beaded
Jewelry

50+ projects you'll love to make!

Marla Salezze

Waukesha, Wisconsin

BKS-67908-00.indd 1 6/29/18 10:34 AM

 Dedication
To Mom, Dad and Nick, for always reminding me how capable,
brave, and significant I am, especially when I have my doubts.

Kalmbach Books
A division of Kalmbach Media
21027 Crossroads Circle
Waukesha, Wisconsin 53186
www.JewelryAndBeadingStore.com

© 2018 Marla Salezze

All rights reserved. Except for brief excerpts for review, this book may not be reproduced in part or in
whole by electronic means or otherwise without written permission of the publisher.

Numbered step-by-step illustrations by the author. All other photography © 2018 Kalmbach Books
except where otherwise noted.

The jewelry designs in Learn to Stitch Beaded Jewelry are the copyrighted property of the author, and
they may not be taught or sold without permission. Please use them for your education and personal
enjoyment only.

Published in 2018
22 21 20 19 18  1 2 3 4 5

Manufactured in China

ISBN: 978-1-62700-506-7
EISBN: 978-1-62700-507-4

Editor: Erica Barse

Book Design: Lisa Schroeder
Technical Editor: Jane Danley Cruz
Photographer: William Zuback

Library of Congress Control Number: 2017941414

BKS-67908-00.indd 2 6/29/18 10:34 AM

 contents
Once you learn
Introduction................................................. 4
Materials and Tools...................................... 5
Basic Techniques ......................................... 9

PEYOTE STITCH ........................................... 12

All Together Leather Tassel Earrings........................13
Angular Aztec Bracelet............................................ 15
Polka Dot Paradise Necklace................................... 18

a handful of stitches, SPIRAL ROPE STITCH ................................. 22

Winding Rivulet Bracelet.......................................... 23

you’ll be amazed Lively Lentil Loop Earrings....................................... 26

Sparkle Spiral with a Twist Necklace....................... 29

at the jewelry you can LADDER STITCH .......................................... 32

Art Deco Earrings..................................................... 33
Fork in the Road Necklace....................................... 36

create and wear! Chutes and Ladders Bracelet................................... 39

BRICK STITCH ............................................... 43

Stepping Stone Bracelet.......................................... 44
Color Blocked Collar................................................ 47
Coiled Hoop Earrings............................................... 50

HERRINGBONE STITCH ............................ 53

Confetti Bracelet...................................................... 54
Woven Web Earrings................................................ 58
Colonnade Chains Necklace.................................... 62

NETTING STITCH ........................................ 66

Luminous Lattice Bangle.......................................... 67
Dew Drop Lariat....................................................... 71
Quirky Quilted Drop Earrings...................................74

SQUARE STITCH .......................................... 77

Garden Party Bracelet.............................................. 78
Circlet Collar............................................................. 81
Hula Hoop Earrings.................................................. 85

RIGHT-ANGLE WEAVE .............................. 88

Cobblestone Cuff..................................................... 89
Pearled Floret Earrings............................................. 92
RAW Ruffled Collar................................................... 95

BEAD EMBROIDERY .................................. 98

Doodle Cuff.............................................................. 99
Radiant Rivoli Earrings............................................ 103
Quirky Quilted Drop Bead Embroidered Button Pendant...................... 106
Earrings, p. 74

Acknowledgments ................................ 110

About the Author .................................. 111

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 Introduction
One of the things I love most about beading is its versatility. After you have learned a handful
of stitches, the sky is the limit with the jewelry you can create and make. A unique bead color
or shape can turn a basic beadweaving stitch into a truly spectacular piece of jewelry.

My goal in writing this book was to introduce you to some of my favorite stitches and new
ways to use those stitches to create stunning beaded jewelry. Whether you are brand new to
beadweaving, ready to take your beginner skills to the next level, or an experienced beader
looking for a refresh on a classic stitch, the projects in this book will propel you forward on
your bead journey.

I’ve organized each chapter in the book by type of stitch, and I’ve explored nine stitches
to offer you 27 innovative beaded jewelry projects. Each chapter contains three projects:
a necklace, bracelet, and earrings. I also offer an alternative design option for each project
so you can truly customize your beaded jewelry to your personal style preference. The
alternative design options build off the techniques from the main project, and include
additional skills, stitches, and embellishments to further your beading repertoire.

You can certainly flip through the book and make a project that speaks to you—or dive into a
specific chapter with a stitch you love. However, if a beadweaving stitch is brand-new to you,
I encourage you to begin with the first project in that particular stitch’s chapter, as it will lay
the foundation for weaving that stitch. All other projects in each chapter build from the first
project, so a thorough understanding of the basic stitch from that project will give you the
skills and confidence you need to successfully create the other projects in that chapter.

You will find my personal tried-and-true tips and techniques sprinkled throughout the pages
of this book. My goal was to share with you as much of my beading knowledge as possible
for you to use as a reference. These tips will provide assistance and guidance as you bead.

My aspiration for this book is to make you fall in love with bead weaving as much as I have,
so I truly hope you enjoy learning the stitches I’ve presented and have fun beading the
projects I created. You might find you like some stitches better than others—I’ll admit,
I have my favorites, too—but regardless of how you use this book, I hope it inspires your
own unique beadweaving exploration.

Let it bead,
Marla

Pearled Floret Earrings

design option, p. 92

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 Materials
and Tools seed beads

Beads
As you’ll soon discover, beads come in a wide variety of
sizes, shapes, materials, colors, and finishes. The projects
in this book include glass seed beads in size 150, 110, 80,
and 60; glass cylinder beads in size 110 and 100; and some
varying sized beads in various shapes. The most important
cylinder beads
thing to note about bead sizes is the larger the number size,
the smaller the bead. For example, a 150 seed bead is small
and a 60 seed bead is significantly larger.

Seed beads are round, and they are available in a variety of

sizes, colors, and finishes. Cylinder beads, often referred
to by the brand name Delica, are are more rectangular, or
cylinder-shaped, than seed beads, but are also available in a
variety of sizes, colors and finishes.

Druk beads are larger round glass beads. Crystals are glass
beads with many facets (you will find Swarovski and Czech drop beads
crystals, among other options). Crystals may be round,
bicone (a three-dimensional diamond shape), or rondelle
(a round, squat shape). Crystal pearls are man-made glass
pearls that are perfectly round and great for stitching.
Fire-polished beads are faceted, oblong glass beads.

Drop beads are shaped like teardrops and come in multiple

sizes. Two-hole beads have two stitching holes. There are
a ton of different shapes available—I’ve used Brick beads in bicone crystals
this book.

tip
• When I find a color or finish on a bead I really love,
I will purchase the same bead in a variety of sizes.
Brick beads

crystal pearls

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 crimp beads

crimp covers

earring findings

Findings and components

Crimp beads are small metal beads designed to be
crimped with crimping pliers on beading wire to secure
beads on a piece of jewelry. Crimp beads are available in
a variety of sizes and metal finishes and are either round or
rectangular in shape. The size needed is usually determined
by the beading wire being used. Crimp covers are small
metal beads that are closed over a crimp bead to hide the
toggle clasp crimped crimp bead and provide a decorative element.
lobster clasp S-hook clasp
Using crimp covers is a great way to elevate the finished
look of a handmade piece of jewelry.

You will use clasps to finish your jewelry, and they are
available in multiple sizes and finishes. Always choose a
clasp that is secure with a finish that will last. All clasps serve
the same purpose of securing the beaded jewelry to a
neck or wrist. Consider which clasp style will look best with
a particular piece of jewelry. Choose from lobster clasps,
multi-strand bar clasps (the spring-loaded versions are more
secure and reliable then the magnetic ones), toggle and bar
clasps, S-hooks, and magnetic clasps. I like to attach clasps
jump rings to my beadwork with a jump ring so the clasp can easily be
changed out if it breaks or does not work properly.

Jump rings are small metal wire circles that are used to
connect findings to beadwork and other components.
They are available in a variety of sizes and finishes. I used
unsoldered rings in this book, which means they can be
opened and closed. Accu-guards are little metal horseshoe-
shaped metal components that are threaded through with
Accu-guards
beading wire when bead stringing. These findings protect
the beading wire from wear and tear that might lead to
fraying or breaking.

Buttons come with pre-drilled holes in the center or a shank

on the bottom. We will use buttons as clasps for some of
the projects in this book and as a decorative component to
bead around. Rivolis are crystal stones with detailed facet-
ing that comes to a beveled point at the top and bottom.
6

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 Materials
My favorite type of thread to use is a braided beading
thread. I like this type of thread because of its durability. It
is available in different weight sizes; the smaller the pound
weight, the thinner the thread. The size and material of
your beads will dictate which weight thread is best for that
project. There is extremely limited color selection; however,
I have found the smoke-colored thread works well with most
beads, as it easily blends in. With translucent or transparent
beads and/or very light-colored beads, use crystal-colored
thread. Brands include Fireline, One G, and Wildfire.

Beading wire is a type of stringing material used for beading wire

beading. It comes in varying diameters and string counts.
It is used to string beads to make a necklace or bracelet.
The specific type of beading wire needed for a project
is indicated in the supply list for that particular project.
Craft wire is a base metal wire available in a variety of
finishes and gauges. The gauge number indicates the
wire’s thickness (large gauge = thin wire).

Tools
Beading needles come in a variety of sizes and lengths.
Just like with beads, the larger the size, the smaller the
needle. Depending upon which size beads you are using
helps determine which size needle is best to bead with.
Each project indicates which needle size is preferable to
complete that particular project. Using a long or short
needle is mostly a personal preference, however, sometimes
the length of the needle is dictated by the type of bead
stitch and/or beading supplies being used and it’s helpful
to have both lengths and multiple sizes readily available
while beading. beading needles

I like to have a few pairs of scissors on hand when

beading—each pair solely designated for a specific
purpose. I use an inexpensive pair to cut my thread,
since Fireline is so strong, it will dull the blade. I also use
a separate, sharp pair of scissors to cut fabric, such as a
beading foundation and ultrasuede.

craft wire

thread

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 caliper

Needle chainnose pliers are used to open and close jump

rings, to hold materials in place, to pull needles through
beadwork, and to remove unwanted beads. Roundnose
pliers are used to make wire loops. Wire cutters trim wire
to the desired length. Crimping pliers are used to put
a crimp on a crimp bead strung on beading wire. Using
crimping pliers is a two-step process dictated by the two
small spaces on the edge of the pliers. The first space
flattens the crimp bead, and the second folds it over
on itself.

A thread catcher is a place to put your discarded thread

ends, broken beads, and other miscellaneous material
to keep your bead surface clear and organized. A thread
zapper is a handy accessory to use when ending thread
within beadwork. It is a great tool because it burns the
thread off, causing the thread to curl into itself and retreat
invisibly into the beadwork. You must be careful not to
accidentally burn thread not intended to be ended with this
tool. A needle puller is a little rubber tube or thin piece of
rubber that grabs around the needle and helps to pull it
beading board
through the beadwork. It is gentler to use than pliers, with
less risk of breaking any beads.

A retractable ruler is very helpful measuring device to keep

handy while beading so you can measure your beadwork
and determine the finished and desired length of a piece.
A bead reamer is a dull, needle-like tool that can be used
to make a bead hole larger by gently applying pressure
in a bead’s exiting hole. Use a caliper when shopping for
roundnose pliers
bead supplies. It determines the width and length of beads
and buttons, etc. in millimeters to help you determine if
the supplies are correct for the project you are beading.
Small photo cases are inexpensive little plastic boxes with
a snap lid. They are the perfect size to store individual bead
projects and supplies.

A bead mat or beading board is a work surface for your

needle chainnose pliers
beadwork. There are many options available on the market
today, so choosing one is a complete personal preference.
Look for a mat or board with a soft surface in a light color
so you can easily see and pick up your beads. I like a
bead mat with a ledge all around it so I can move the mat
without losing any beads. Other things to consider include
portability (something with a lid for travel or a sticky surface
so beads do not roll around while moving) and organization
(something with dividers or inserts). Little triangle trays are
the perfect tool for scooping and sorting beads on your
work surface.

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 Basic
Techniques
Stop bead
A stop bead is a temporary bead added to your thread at the very beginning of any
beadwork to keep newly added beads on your thread and to help maintain even tension
throughout the first few rows of beading—which are often the most challenging. It gets
removed before the beadwork is finished. To add a stop bead to your thread, pick up a
bead (I use an 80 seed bead in a different color than the beads in my current project. That
way, there is no doubt which bead is the stop bead), and slide it down the thread, leaving
a 6–8 in. (15–20cm) tail. Sew through the bead again in the same direction to keep it from
moving. You might find it helpful to sew through the bead a few times to keep it in place.

Knots
Square knot
Cross the left-hand end of the thread over the right, and bring it under and back up.
Cross the end that is now on the right over the left, go through the loop, and pull both
ends to tighten.

Half-hitch knot
Pass the needle under the thread path between two beads. A loop will form as you pull the
thread through. Cross back over the thread between the beads, sew through the loop and
pull gently to draw the knot into the beadwork. To make a more secure half-hitch knot, I like
to sew through my loop twice before pulling it closed.

Adding thread
I like to add new thread when I have about 6–8 in. (15–20cm) of my current working thread
left. Cut a new piece of thread and thread it on a needle. Tie an overhand knot around an
existing thread path within the beadwork, leaving a tail of about 6–8 in. (15–20cm). Sew
through a few beads in the direction of where the new thread needs to be added, following Old thread
the existing thread path of the beadwork, and tie two half-hitch knots. Continue sewing
through beads and tying half-hitch knots through about an inch of beadwork until the new
thread exits the same bead as the remaining old thread. Tie an overhand knot with the old
thread and the new thread to maintain tension. Begin working with the new thread.

Ending thread
Similarly to how thread is added, sew through a few beads with the thread you wish to end,
following the existing thread path of the beadwork, and tie two half-hitch knots. Continue
sewing through beads and tying half-hitch knots through about an inch of beadwork. Once
you are confident the thread is secure, pull it against the beadwork and cut it (or use a
thread zapper).

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 Colonnade Chains Necklace
design option, p. 62

Crimping
String a crimp bead on your desired length of beading wire. String one end of the clasp on the beading wire, and pass
back through the crimp bead, creating a loop around the clasp. Make sure the beading wire strands are lying parallel to
each other. Place the crimp bead into the back notch of the crimping pliers, and squeeze the crimp bead. Turn the crimp
bead a quarter turn, place it in the front notch of the crimping pliers, and squeeze the crimp bead a second time. This will
fold the crimped bead over on itself.

Opening and closing a jump ring or earring loop

Hold a jump ring with two pairs of pliers, with one pair of pliers on each side of the split in the ring. To open the jump ring,
bring the tips of one pair of pliers toward you, and push the tips of the other pair away from you. Reverse the process to
close the open jump ring. When closing the jump ring, bring the ends of the split in the ring past each other, then back to
flush—this will ensure a cleaner join.

10

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 Simple wire loop
Bend the wire at the top of the bead to a 90-degree angle with pliers. Grasp the end of the wire with roundnose pliers so
the wire is flush with the tool. Rotate the pliers to form a loop. Continue turning the wire until a complete loop is formed.
To make perfectly sized loops each time, cut the wire to ¼ in. (6mm), and grasp the wire with the roundnose pliers ¼ in.
(6mm) from the tip of the pliers. I mark my roundnose pliers with a permanent marker so I always grab the wire at the same
spot with my pliers. It makes for consistent loops.

Beading Lingo
Thread Path: The existing path of thread in between each bead of the
beadwork. When trying to get your needle to another point in the beadwork,
always follow the existing thread path in between the beads to get there.
This reinforces the beadwork, but most importantly, assures that no new thread
paths are created (and exposed).

Working Thread: The end of the thread where the needle is attached.

Tail Thread: The end of the thread opposite the end where the needle
is attached.

“Up” Bead: A bead in the row higher than or “up” from the current row.

Step Up: The action of passing up through the first bead(s) added in that
same row to prepare the thread to be in position to start the next row. Not all
stitches require a step up, but each stitch has a specific way for it to be done.

Zip Up: The action of connecting two ends of the same piece of beadwork by
following the thread path of a particular stitch to create a seamless join.

Color Blocked Collar

design option, p. 47

11

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 Peyote
Stitch A basic stitch with
endless possibilities

12

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 All Together
Leather Tassel
Earrings
Learn the basic peyote stitch by weaving
flat, even-count peyote strips that are
“zipped up” around a pre-fabricated metal
channel bead. Add a handmade leather
tassel to the bottom end of the channel
bead and a pearl to the top to create
these trendy tassel earrings.

d c
811
o 0 seed bead, color A
metal seed bead, color A e
b
o a
811 0 seedseed
metal bead, color
bead, colorBB
figure 1 figure 2

Weave a peyote strip and zip it up

1. On a comfortable length of thread, attach a stop bead Supplies
(Basic Techniques, p. 9), leaving a 6-in. (15cm) tail. • 2 8mm pearls
2. Pick up two color A 110 seed beads, two color B 110 • 6g 110 metal seed beads, color A
seed beads, and two As. These beads will shift to form the
• 3g 110 metal seed beads, color B
first and second row as the third row of beads is added
(figure 1, a–b). • 2 13x11mm channel beads
3. Turn, pick up an A, skip the last A, and sew through the • 2-in. (5cm) leather tassel trim, cut to
following A (b–c). two 1-in. (2.5cm) pieces
4. Pick up a B, skip the next B, and sew through the • 2 2-in. (5cm) headpins
following B (c–d). • Pair of earring wires
5. Work as in step 3 to complete the third row (d–e).
• Braided beading thread, 14-lb. test
The beads added in this row are higher than the beads in
the previous row and are referred to as “up beads.” • Beading needle, size 11
6. Repeat steps 3–5 (figure 2) 23 more times for a total • Wire cutters
of 26 beaded rows. • Roundnose pliers
7. Wrap the beaded peyote strip around the center of • 2 pairs of chainnose pliers
one channel bead. Match up the two ends of the peyote • E6000 adhesive
strip—the “up beads” from one end should alternatively
align with the “up beads” from the other end. Sew through
13

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 the “up beads” on both ends of the beadwork, in a zigzag
direction, all the way up and then all the way back down
until the beadwork is “zipped up” around the channel bead
(figure 3). End the threads (Basic Techniques).
8. Repeat steps 1–7 to make a second tassel unit.

Assemble the earrings

9. Apply a small dab of glue along the top edge of the
leather tassel trim. Attach the headpin to the edge of the
trim, and tightly wrap the trim around the headpin.
10. Apply a small dab of glue to the top rolled edge of the
trim and insert the tassel into the bottom of the channel
bead. Let dry.
figure 3 11. String an 8mm crystal pearl on the headpin above the
channel bead, and make a wire loop (Basic Techniques).
Attach the earring to the loop of an earring wire using two
pairs of needle chainnose pliers.
12. Repeat to make a second earring.

tips
• To count the total number of rows beaded in flat, even-
count peyote beadwork, add up the total number of
beads in the first and second column of your beadwork.
figure 4 Refer to the illustration (figure 4) to see the difference
between a row and a column. The tan filled/black outlined
beads make up rows (horizontally) and columns (vertically).
The same with the blue filled/red outlined beads.
• I used pre-cut leather tassel trim for this project, but you
can take a plain, un-cut piece of leather and make a tassel
trim yourself. Use a ruler to measure and cut out evenly-
spaced strips, leaving ¼ in. (6mm) of un-cut leather at the
top to roll around the headpin.
• Replace the 110 metal seed beads with regular 110 glass
seed beads for more color options. You won’t need as
many grams of As and Bs when using glass beads, as they
weigh less than metal beads.

No-Tassle
Earrings
Not a fan of the leather tassel? Replace the tassel with a
second 8mm crystal bead.

1. Refer to the All Together Leather Tassel Earrings,

p. 13. Follow steps 1–8 to weave a peyote strip and zip it
up around the channel bead.
2. When assembling the earrings, omit the leather tassel
and instead string an 8mm crystal pearl, a beaded channel
bead, and a pearl on a headpin.
3. Make a simple wire loop (Basic Techniques), and attach
to the loop of the earring wire.
4. Repeat to make a second earring.

14

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 Angular
Aztec
Bracelet
Bead a bracelet using flat, even-count
peyote with a geometric design while
learning how to read and follow a peyote
pattern using a bead and word chart.
Finish the bracelet by attaching a
seamless clasp.

Bead the peyote band

Supplies
bracelet, 6 in. (15cm)
• 5g 100 cylinder beads, color A
• 2g 100 cylinder beads, color B
• 2g 100 cylinder beads, color C
• 26mm sliding bar clasp
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
• Beading needle, size 11
1. On a comfortable length of thread, attach a stop bead,
leaving a 6-in. (15cm) tail (Basic Techniques, p. 9). Starting
at the upper-left corner of the pattern, pick up 10 color A
100 cylinder beads for rows 1 and 2 (figure 1, a–b). These
beads will shift to form the first two rows as the third row of
beads is added.
2. Pick up an A, skip the next A, and sew through the next
A (b–c). Repeat this stitch four more times to complete the
third row (c–d).
3. Following the pattern, p. 16 or the word chart (see
beadedbymarla.indiemade.com), bead in flat, even-count
peyote stitch using the appropriate color cylinder beads
(figure 2), and ending and adding thread as needed (Basic
Techniques). Repeat the pattern as needed to reach the
desired length.

o
100 cylinder
10 cylinder bead,
bead,color A A
color c
d
o
100 cylinder
10 cylinder bead,
bead,color B B
color b
a
10
o
100 cylinder
cylinder bead,
bead,color C C
color figure 1

figure 2
15

BKS-67908-01.indd 15 6/29/18 10:35 AM

 Bead Chart
A A A A A
A A A A A
A AAAAAAAAA
A A A A A
A A A A A
A A A A A
A A A A A
A BAAAAAAAA
A B A A A
B B A A A
A B B A A
A B B A A
A BAABBBBAA
A BBBAABBBA
A B A B A
B A B A A
A BBBBAAAAA
A BBAAAACCA
A A A C C
A A C C A
A AACCCCAAA
A CCCCAACCA
A C A C C
A C A C A
A
AAACCACCA
A A A C C
B A A C A
A BBBAAAACA
A B B A A
A B B A A
A
BAABBBBAA
A BBBAABBBA
A B A B A
B A B A A
figure 3 A B B A A
B B A A A
A BBAAAACCA
A AAAACCCCA
A A C C A
A C C A A
A CCCCAACCA
Attach the clasp A
ACCAACCCA
A
4. Slide the end of the bracelet through and around the bar AAACCACCA
A BAAAACCCA
of the clasp. Exiting from the “up bead” at the very end of A
BBBAAAACA
A
the row, sew through the first “up bead” in the fourth row of ABBBBAAAA
A
the beadwork. Continue sewing back and forth through “up BAABBBBAA
A
beads” on the end of the beadwork and within the fourth BBBAABBBA
A BBAABBAAA
row to connect the clasp (figure 3). A BBBBAAAAA
A
5. Repeat step 4 on the other end of the beadwork. BBAAAACCA
A A A C C
A A C C A
A A C C A
A C C A A
A
CCCCAACCA
tips A
A
ACCAACCCA
• This particular pattern makes a 6-in. (15cm) bracelet with AAACCACCA
A
the clasp. If you need a shorter or longer bracelet, repeat BAAAACCCA
A
BBBAAAACA
A
the angular pattern as necessary, or include more rows ABBBBAAAA
A BAABBBBAA
of color A beads on either side of the pattern, until the
A
bracelet reaches the desired length. BBBAABBBA
A BBAABBAAA
A
• Blank peyote pattern paper is available to print online. BBBBAAAAA
A
Have some fun designing your own peyote patterns to BBAAAACCA
A
bead. Keep in mind that even-count peyote has an even AAAACCCCA
A AACCCCAAA
number of columns—an important thing to remember A CCCCAACCA
A
when designing your own pattern. ACCAACCCA
A
AAACCACCA
A
BAAAACCCA
A
BBBAAAACA
A
ABBBBAAAA
A
BAABBBBAA
A
BBBAABBBA
A
BBAABBAAA
A
BBBBAAAAA
A
BBAAAACCA
A
AAAACCCCA
A AACCCCAAA
A
CCCCAACCA
A
ACCAACCCA
A
AAACCACCA
A
AAAAACCCA
A
AAAAAAACA
A
AAAAAAAAA
A
AAAAAAAAA
A AAAAAAAAA
A
AAAAAAAAA

pattern
16

BKS-67908-01.indd 16 6/29/18 10:35 AM


Additional Supplies
• 47 3x2mm crystal rondelles
• 1g 150 seed beads
Created with BeadTool 4 - www.beadtool.net
BKS-67908-01.indd 17
Embellished
Bracelet
This project shows you how to add an embellishment to the
sides of flat peyote beadwork. It adds another dimension to
the finished piece of jewelry and is a clever design element
that can hide crooked beads due to tension control issues.
1. Refer to the Angular Aztec Bracelet, p. 15. Follow steps
1–5 to bead the bracelet and attach the clasp.
2. After the clasp has been added to each end of the
bracelet, exit an edge cylinder bead closest to the end of
the clasp.
3. Pick up two 150 seed beads, a rondelle, and two 150s,
and sew down through the third bead along the edge of the
bracelet and sew up through the next bead (figure, a–b).
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 along this edge of the bracelet
(b–c), then sew through the beads along the nearest end to
exit the end cylinder bead along the other edge.
5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 for this edge. End the thread
(Basic Techniques).
c
a b
figure
100 cylinder bead, color A
100 cylinder bead, color B
3x2mm crystal rondelle
150 seed bead
17
6/29/18 10:36 AM
 Polka Dot
Paradise
Necklace
After you’ve mastered flat, even-count
peyote, it’s time to take this stitch to the
next level. Use this circular version of
peyote to bezel around crystal rivolis and
then connect them together with bicone
crystals to create a center focal piece
that is enhanced with pearl and crystal
neckstraps.

Supplies
• 4 12mm crystal rivolis • 2-strand clasp
• 98 4mm crystal bicones • Braided beading thread,
• 86 4mm crystal pearls 6-lb. test
• 1.5g 110 seed beads • Beading needle, size 12
• 1g 110 cylinder beads
• 1g 150 seed beads

18

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 12mm
12mm crystal
crystal rivoli
12mm crystal rivoli
12mm crystal rivoli
rivoli
12mm crystal rivoli

4mm
4mm crystal
4mm crystal pearlpearl
crystal pearl
4mm crystal pearl
4mm
4mm crystal
4mm crystal bicone
crystal bicone
pearl
bicone
figure 1 11 4mm
o
seedcrystal bicone
bead
11o bead
110 seed
4mm seed bead
crystal bicone
o
11
11oo cylinder
seed bead
bead
cylinder bead
11
15 o seed
o bead
15o seed
110 cylinder
11 bead
bead
cylinder
seed
o
bead
bead
11
15o cylinder
seed beadbead
150 seed
15o bead
seed bead

c
b
figure 2
figure 3
a

figure 4

Bead around (or bezel) the rivolis

1. Thread a needle on a comfortable length of thread, and
pick up 32 110 cylinder beads. Tie an overhand knot (Basic
Techniques, p. 9) with the working thread and tail thread,
leaving a 6-in. (15cm) tail (figure 1). These beads will shift
to become the first and second round as the third round
is added.
2. Round 3: Pick up a cylinder, skip the next cylinder in the
previous round, and sew through the following cylinder.
Continue this stitch for a total of 16 times. Step up by sew-
ing through the first cylinder added in this round (figure 2).
3. Round 4: Pick up a 150 seed bead, skip the next cylinder
in the previous round, and sew through the following cylin-
der. Continue adding 150s this way for a total of 16 times to
complete the round. Step up by sewing through the first 150
added in this round (figure 3).
note
Maintain tight tension while adding the 150s in this row. The
beadwork should begin to cup inwards with the addition of
the smaller beads.
4. Round 5: Pick up a 150, skip the next 150 from the pre-
vious round, and sew through the following 150. Continue
adding 150s this way for a total of 16 times to complete the
figure 5
round. Step up by sewing through the first 150 added in this
round (figure 4).
5. Sew through the beadwork, hiding the thread path, so
the needle is exiting an up-bead along the other edge of
the beadwork. You will be exiting a cylinder in Round 1.
6. Place a 12mm rivoli face down into the beadwork.
7. Rounds 6–8: Repeat steps 3–5 on the back of the rivoli.
End the threads (Basic Techniques).
8. Repeat steps 1–7 three more times for a total of four
bezeled rivolis.
Connect the rivolis
9. Exiting a cylinder added in Round 2 of a bezeled rivoli
(shown in red in figure 5), pick up a 4mm bicone crystal,
and sew through a center cylinder (shown in red) on the
second bezeled rivoli. Continue picking up a crystal and
sewing through the center cylinder (shown in red) in a
bezeled rivoli until all four rivolis are connected. Then, sew
through the beadwork to exit a cylinder on the side of
the bezeled rivoli (figure 5, a–b). Sew through the center
cylinder (shown in blue), located eight beads away from the
cylinder where the inner crystals are connected.
19

BKS-67908-01.indd 19 6/29/18 10:36 AM


clasp assembly
10. Pick up a crystal, and sew through the 8th center
cylinder of the next rivoli (shown in blue).
11. Repeat step 7 until all the rivolis are connected with a
crystal (b–c).
Bead the neckstraps and add
the clasp
note
The beaded neckstraps will be connected to the green
outlined beads in figure 6. Use a piece of thread at least
2 yd. (1.8m) long when beading EACH neckstrap, because
the bead strands will need to be reinforced.
12. Exiting a green outlined bead of the left bezeled rivoli
(figure 6, point a), pick up a crystal and an 110 seed bead
five times. Pick up a 4mm crystal pearl and an 110 five times.
For an 18-in. (46cm) necklace, continue adding sections of
five crystals and five pearls for a total of five crystal sections
and four pearl sections (a–b).
13. The last bead strung on the neckstrap should be an
110. Pick up six 150s, and sew through the first loop of the
two-strand clasp. Sew back through the 110 and retrace the
thread path through the beads in the strand (c–d). Connect
the neckstrap to the rivoli component by sewing through
the bead (shown in green) in the opposite direction in which
the neckstrap strand began (d–a).
14. Retrace the thread path at least one more time to
reinforce the connection to the center rivoli component and
the clasp, ending and adding thread as necessary (Basic
Techniques).
15. Repeat steps 12–14 on the right bezeled rivoli.
16. Exiting a bead (shown in green) on the right side of the
center bezeled rivoli (point e), pick up a pearl and an 110
five times. Pick up a crystal and an 110 five times. For an
18-in. (46cm) necklace, continue adding sections of five
20
BKS-67908-01.indd 20
g
f
h
e
d figure 6
a
pearls and five crystals for a total of four pearl sections, four
crystal sections, and a final section of three pearls (e–f).
17. The last bead strung on the neckstrap should be an 110.
Pick up six 150s, and sew through the second loop of the
two-strand clasp (f–g). Sew back through the 110 and the
rest of the beads in the strand (g–h). Connect the neckstrap
to the focal centerpiece by sewing through the bead (shown
in green) in the opposite direction in which the neckstrap
strand began (h–e).
18. Retrace the thread path at least one more time to
reinforce the connection to the center rivoli component and
the clasp.
19. Repeat steps 16–18 on the left side of the center
bezeled rivoli. End the threads.
tips
• I alternated the neckstraps with sections of five crystals
and pearls, separated by 110 seed beads. You could
easily bead the neckstraps with all crystals, or all pearls, or
alternate with sections of three or ten, depending upon
which shape and style beads you prefer. The variety of
beads you use for the neckstraps may also be determined
by your desired length for the necklace. I suggest playing
around with the beads and stringing all four strands
separately before you connect them to the clasp.
• Replace the 4mm pearls with 4mm druk beads as I did in
the Statement Necklace, p. 21.
• When working with rivolis and leaving the foiled back
exposed—as in this project—protect the foil back from
scratching or peeling, which can alter the appearance of
the front of the crystal, by applying some clear nail polish
to the back of the rivoli before beading around them.
6/29/18 10:36 AM
 Supplies
• 9 12mm crystal rivolis
• 52 4mm bicone crystals
• 30 4mm crystal pearls
• 2.5g 110 seed beads
• 4g 110 cylinder beads
• 2.5g 150 seed beads
• 3-strand clasp
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
• Beading needle, size 12

Statement Necklace
Make a necklace with more sparkle and more statement
by increasing the size of the focal component. Bezel
nine crystal rivolis and connect them with six strands of
strung beads.

1. Refer to the Polka Dot Paradise Necklace, p. 18. Follow

steps 1–8 for a total of nine bezeled rivolis.
2. Refer to the figure: Sew through the cylinders (outlined in
red) with crystals to connect the interior rivolis. Sew through
the cylinders (outlined in blue) with crystals to connect the
exterior rivolis. Connect the neckstraps to the cylinders
(outlined in green).
3. Work as in steps 12–18 to attach three neckstraps,
referring to the figure for placement.

tip
• To make the crystal rivolis stand out in the alternate
design option, I used two different colored rivolis
and arranged them together so the colors alternated.
I selected colors that coordinated with the cylinder and
seed beads so I could use the same materials to bead
all the bezels.

figure

21

BKS-67908-01.indd 21 6/29/18 10:36 AM

 spiral
rope Weave round and round
with your favorite beads

22

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 Winding Rivulet
Bracelet
The winding path of beads created with the spiral rope stitch is as
mesmerizing as a winding river. A series of beads stack one on top
of the other and naturally meander around a center core of beads to
create a spiral. Bicone crystals are added to this spiral rope bracelet
to create sparkling reflection, and the druk beads flanking the spiral
rope on either side really make the beadwoven work stand out.

Supplies
bracelet, 7 in. (18cm)
• 10 6mm druk beads
• 45 4mm bicone crystals
• 1.5g 80 seed beads
• 2.5g 110 seed beads
• 0.25g 150 seed beads
• Toggle clasp
• 2 6mm jump rings
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
• Beading needle, size 11
• 2 pairs of chainnose pliers

23

BKS-67908-01.indd 23 6/29/18 10:36 AM

 Stitch a spiral rope focal piece
6mm drukbead
6mm druk bead 1. Attach a stop bead on a comfortable length of thread
6mm druk bead (Basic Techniques, p. 9), leaving an 18-in. (46cm) tail. (The
6mm druk bead
4mm bicone
4mm crystal crystal
bicone tail thread will be used at a later time.)
4mm crystal bicone 2. Pick up five 80 seed beads, three 110 seed beads, a 4mm
4mm crystal bicone
8 seedbead
8o0 seed bead crystal, and three 110s, and sew back through the five 80s in
o
8
11 oseed bead
seedbead
bead the same direction to create a loop (figure 1).
8o oseed
11
11 seedbead
15oo0 seed
seed bead
bead 3. Pick up an 80, three 110s, a 4mm crystal, and three
11o seed bead
15
15 seed bead
seedbead
bead 110s, and push them all the way down towards the current
15 0 seed
o

beadwork. Sew through the last four 80s added in the

previous round and the newly added 80 (figure 2).

note
The 80s are this spiral rope’s “core” beads. The sequence
of three 110s, a 4mm crystal, and three 110s are the spiral
rope’s “loop” beads. Make sure each new loop is oriented
the same way—determine right away whether the core
beads are on the left and the loop beads are on the right, or
vice versa, and always add them the same way. Eventually
the “loop” beads will begin to create a spiral around the
figure 1 “core” beads.

4. Repeat step 3 for 44 more rows, or approximately

5 in. (13cm), adding and ending thread as necessary
(Basic Techniques). The spiral shape should become visible
around the fifth row.
5. Exiting the last 80 added, pick up five druks and nine
150 seed beads. Sew back through the five druks and five
80 core beads, and sew through the fifth 80’s loop beads.
Retrace the thread path through the druks, 150s, core,
and loop beads three times to reinforce the connection
(figure 3).
figure 2 6. Thread a needle on the tail, and repeat step 5 to
add druks and 150s to the other end of the bracelet.
End the threads.

Attach the clasp and finish

7. Open a 6mm jump ring, and attach the toggle bar and
beaded loop of 150s on one end of the bracelet (Basic
Techniques). Close the ring. Open a 6mm jump ring and
attach the toggle loop and beaded loop of 150s on the
other end of the bracelet. Close the ring.

tips
• The instructions are written for a 5-in. (13cm) spiral focal
piece and 1 in. (2.5cm) of strung beads on either side.
Leaving ¾ in. (1.9cm) for the toggle clasp, this bracelet
is 7¾ (19.7cm). To add or subtract length to the bracelet,
increase or decrease the number of spiral rope rows you
bead and add or subtract strung beads for your desired
length.
• The spiral rope stitch requires multiple thread passes
through the core beads, and it can get a little tight in
there. I like to use 80s as core beads because the inside
figure 3 diameter of the holes is large enough to accommodate
multiple thread passes without a struggle.

24

BKS-67908-01.indd 24 6/29/18 10:36 AM

 Dangle
Earrings
Using the same basic spiral rope stitch and techniques
as the main project, make a pair of dangly earrings
embellished with a stone bead and a small charm.

1. Refer to the Winding Rivulent Bracelet, p. 23. Follow

steps 1–3 to begin beading a spiral rope, but use the
following sequence for the “loops”: Pick up two 110 seed
beads, a 4mm bicone crystal, and two 110s. Repeat step 3
for a total of 12 rows.
2. Exiting the last 80 seed bead added, pick up a focal
stone bead and six 150 seed beads, and sew back through
the focal bead. Retrace the thread path through the core
bead, loop beads, and newly added focal bead and 150s to
reinforce the connection. End the working thread.
3. Thread a needle on the tail, and pick up six 150s and a
charm. Retrace the thread path through the core bead, loop
beads, and newly added 150s to reinforce the connection.
End the threads.
4. Attach an earring wire to the loop of 150s above the
focal bead.
5. Repeat to make a second earring.
Additional Supplies
tips • 2 stone beads, approx. 20mm
• Use any size and/or shape bead for the focal bead. I used • 24 4mm crystal bicones
a 20mm square turquoise jasper stone for mine.
• 0.75g 80 seed beads
• Check the earring wire you are using to see if the loop
that connects to the beadwork can be opened with a • 1g 110 seed beads
pair of pliers. If it can, you can add the earring wire to the • 0.25g 150 seed beads
beadwork after it is completed. If it is soldered closed— • 2 small metal charms
meaning it can’t be opened with pliers—you must pick up • Pair of earring wires
and add the earring wire to the beadwork with the thread • Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
as you would pick up and add a bead.
• Chainnose pliers
• When making a loop of beads to connect an earring
wire, I like to string an even number—such as six 150s—
because then the earring wire loop lays in between the
third and fourth bead, and the beaded earring is centered
on the wire.

25

BKS-67908-01.indd 25 6/29/18 10:36 AM

 Lively Lentil Supplies
• 10 12mm lentil beads

Loop Earrings
As you will soon discover with this earring project,
•
•
•
•
3g 3.4mm drop beads
2g 80 seed beads
3g 110 seed beads, color A
0.25g 110 seed beads, color B
you can really get creative with the center bead
• Pair of earring wires
you use in a spiral rope loop. I used whimsical
• 2 11mm twisted jump rings
lentil beads to add some flare to these earrings,
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
and I connected the ends together to create an
• Beading needle, size 11
infinity spiral rope.
• 2 pairs of needle chainnose pliers

26

BKS-67908-01.indd 26 6/29/18 10:36 AM

 12mm lentil
12mm lentilbead
bead figure 1 figure 2 figure 3

3.4mm drop
3.4mm dropbead
bead
o
880 seed
seedbead
bead
110o seed
11 seedbead,
bead,color A A
color
o
110 seed
11 seedbead,
bead,color B B
color

figure 4 figure 5 figure 6

Stitch a spiral rope 6. Repeat step 5 for a total of five rows.

1. Attach a stop bead on a comfortable length of thread
(Basic Techniques, p. 9), leaving a 6-in. (15cm) tail.
2. Pick up four 80 seed beads, two color A 110 seed beads,
a 3.4mm drop bead, and two As, and sew back through the
four 80s to create a loop (figure 1).
3. Pick up an 80, two As, a drop bead, and two As, and push
them all the way down toward the current beadwork. Sew
through the last three 80s added in the previous round and
the newly added 80 (figure 2).
note
The 80s are this spiral rope’s “core” beads. The sequence
of two 110s, a drop bead, and two 110s are this spiral rope’s
“loop” beads. Make sure each new loop is oriented the
same way—determine right away whether the core beads
are on the left and the loop beads are on the right, or vice
versa. Eventually the “loop” beads will begin to create a
spiral around the “core” beads.
4. Repeat step 3 for a total of 10 rows.
5. Pick up an 80, two As, a color B 110, a 12mm lentil bead,
a B, and two As, and push them all the way down toward
the current beadwork. Sew through the last three 80s added
in the previous round and the newly added 80 (figure 3).
note
The spiral rope’s “loop” beads are briefly changing: The
sequence of two As, a B, a lentil bead, a B, and two As
becomes the new “loop” beads for the next few rows.
7. Repeat step 3 for a total of 16 rows.
Connect the spiral rope
8. To connect the ends of the spiral rope, exit the last 80 on
one end, and sew through the last four 80s on the other end
of the spiral rope. Pick up two As, a drop bead, and two As,
and sew back through three 80s to create a loop (figure 4).
9. Pick up two As, a drop bead, and two As, and sew back
through three 80s to create a loop (figure 5).
10. Repeat step 9 to complete the connection (figure 6).
End the threads (Basic Techniques).
Assemble the earrings
11. Open the twisted jump ring (Basic Techniques), and
attach the spiral rope earring and earring wire. Close
the ring.
12. Repeat to make a second earring.
tips
• I used twisted jump rings to connect the beaded earrings
to the earring wires—I love how the texture mimics the
spiral of the beadwork. You can use a regular jump ring
here, too.
• I use leverback earring wires to connect beaded earrings
that are longer or heavier so they won’t fall off my ears.
However, there are a variety of earring wire styles readily
available, so use what earring wire you like best.

27

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 Spiral Necklace
Weave a necklace using the same technique as the
main project. This necklace will include more spiral rope
loops with the drop beads to make neck straps, and more
spiral rope loops with lentil beads to make a larger center
focal component.

1. Refer to the Lively Lentil Loop Earrings, p. 26. Follow

steps 1–3 for a total of 105 rows. (This number of rows will
make a 20-in./51cm necklace. Add more or fewer rows
depending upon the desired length.)
2. Work as in step 5 for a total of 35 rows.
3. Work as in step 3 for a total of 105 rows.
4. Exiting the last 80 on one end of the spiral rope, pick up
six As, and sew back through the 80, three other 80 loop
beads, and newly added As to reinforce the connection.
5. Repeat step 4 on the opposite end of the spiral rope
beadwork.
6. Exiting the last 80 on one end of the spiral rope,
sew through two 110s and a drop bead. Then, sew
through the next drop bead. Continue sewing
through each drop bead and lentil bead in each
loop for the entire length of the necklace (see “Tip”)

Supplies
(figure).
7. Attach a 6mm jump ring to the beaded loop on
each end of the rope, and use a jump ring to attach necklace, 20 in. (51cm)
a lobster clasp on one end. figure
• 35 12mm lentil beads
tip • 11g 3.4mm drop beads
• To tighten the spiral rope, I sew through the center focal • 5.5g 80 seed beads
bead when using drop beads as the focal bead in a spiral • 7g 110 seed beads, color A
rope loop. This ensures all the drops are facing upwards • 1g 110 seed beads, color B
(sometimes they like to turn in on themselves) and makes • Lobster clasp
for a tight spiral. I don’t use this technique when I’m
• 3 6mm jump rings
beading a bicone as my center bead; I love the way the
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
faceted edges of the diamond shape stack so nicely on
their own as in the Winding Rivulet Bracelet, p. 23. • Needle, size 11
• 2 pairs of needle chainnose pliers

28

BKS-67908-01.indd 28 6/29/18 10:36 AM

 Sparkle Spiral
with a Twist
Necklace
Learn how to embellish the
core beads of a spiral rope
stitched necklace in this project.
After beading a crystal looped
spiral rope, you’ll adorn the core
beads with more crystals for a
true sparkle spiral with a twist.

Supplies
necklace, 20 in. (51cm)
• 236 4mm crystal rondelles
• 236 3mm bicone crystals
• 6g 80 seed beads
• 6g 150 seed beads, color A
• 1g 150 seed beads, color B
• Lobster clasp
• 2 3mm jump rings
• 6mm jump ring
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. and
14-lb. test
• Needle, size 11
• 2 pairs of needle chainnose pliers

29

BKS-67908-01.indd 29 6/29/18 10:36 AM


4mm crystalrondelle
4mm crystal rondelle
3mm crystal
3mm biconebicone
crystal
seedbead
880o seed bead
150o seed
15 seedbead,
bead,color
color
A A
150o seed
15 seedbead,
bead,color B B
color
figure 1
Bead the spiral rope
1. Attach a stop bead on a comfortable length of 6-lb. test
beading thread (Basic Techniques, p. 9), leaving an 18-in.
(46cm) tail. (The tail thread will be used at a later time.)
2. Pick up four 80 seed beads, three color A 150 seed
beads, a 3mm bicone crystal, and three As, and sew back
through the four 80s to create a loop (figure 1).
3. Pick up an 80, three As, a bicone, and three As, and
push them all the way down towards the current beadwork.
Sew through the last three 80s added in the previous round
and the newly added 80 (figure 2).
note
The 80s are this spiral rope’s “core” beads. The sequence
of three 150s, a bicone, and three 150s are the spiral rope’s
“loop” beads. Make sure each new loop is oriented the
same way—determine right away whether the core beads
are on the left and the loop beads are on the right, or vice
versa. Eventually the “loop” beads will begin to create a
spiral around the “core” beads.
4. Repeat step 3 for 235 more rows (see the tip on sizing),
ending and adding thread as needed (Basic Techniques).
The spiral shape should become visible around the fifth row.
5. Once the desired length of the necklace is reached, exit
the last 80 on one end. Pick up seven As, and sew back
through the last four 80s (figure 3, a–b).
6. Reinforce the connection by sewing through the nearest
loop beads. Continue through the seven As added in the
previous step. Sew down through the last 80 (b–c). End the
working thread.
7. Repeat steps 5 and 6 on the other end of the necklace.
End the tail thread.
Embellish the core beads
8. Attach a comfortable length of 14-lb. test beading thread
to the beadwork, leaving a 6-in. (15cm) tail.
9. Sew through the beadwork to exit between the first and
second 80 on one end of the beadwork.
10. Pick up a 4mm crystal rondelle and a color B 150 seed
bead. Sew back through the rondelle and continue through
the second 80, now exiting in between the second and third
80s (figure 4, a–b).
30
BKS-67908-01.indd 30
a
a
b
c
c
b
figure 2 figure 3
figure 4
11. Pick up a rondelle and a B, and sew through the next 80
(b–c). Repeat this step until a rondelle and a 150 have been
added in between EACH core bead—80 seed bead.
Add the clasp and finish
12. Exiting the last 80 core bead at the end of the spiral
rope, pick up seven As and retrace the thread path through
the core bead, loop beads, and newly added As to reinforce
the connection.
13. Attach a 6mm jump ring around the beaded loop.
14. Repeat steps 12 and 13 on the other end of the
necklace. Attach the lobster clasp to the jump ring. End
the threads.
tips
• The embellishment you are adding in between each core
bead is woven using a stop stitch. By skipping the 150 and
going back through the rondelle, the 150 is “stopping the
stitch” from coming apart and allowing you to continue
beading. You’ll see this bonus stitch pop up in a few other
projects throughout the book.
• To make a shorter or longer necklace, simply bead more
or fewer spirals as needed until the desired length is
beaded. Don’t forget your clasp when considering the
finished length.
• Whenever I bead with crystals—which are usually sharp
and abrasive along the interior hole—I use 14-lb. test
braided beading thread because it is more durable and
prevents the thread from fraying or breaking. I don’t use
this heavy thread with the 3mm bicone crystals because
it is too thick to make multiple passes through the 80 core
beads. The bicones are already buffered by a 150 on both
sides, which protects the 6-lb. test thread from fraying or
breaking as well.
6/29/18 10:36 AM
 Subdued Sparkle
Necklace
If the main project has too much sparkle, switch
out the 3mm bicone crystals for 80 hex beads
and the 4mm crystal rondelles for 60 seed beads.
You’ll still bead a beautiful spiral with a twist.

Additional Supplies
necklace, 20 in. (51cm)
• 18.5g 60 seed beads
• 5.5g 80 hex beads

1. Refer to the Sparkle Spiral with a Twist

Necklace, p. 29. Work as in steps 1–7, replacing
the 3mm bicone crystals with 80 hex beads, to
bead a spiral rope necklace.
2. Work as in steps 8–11, replacing the 4mm
crystal rondelles with 60 seed beads, to embellish
the core beads.
3. Work as in steps 12–14 to add the clasp and
finish the necklace.

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 ladder
Stitch Build a base for sturdy
and beautiful beadwork

32

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 Art Deco
Earrings
Learn how to bead the basic ladder
stitch using unique twisted bugle beads
accented with picots of small seed beads.
The silhouette of these earrings have an
Art Deco vibe that is anything but basic.

Supplies
• 4 10mm gemstone rounds
• 1g 6mm twisted bugle beads
• 0.5g 150 seed beads
• 2 2-in. (5cm) headpins
• 2 25mm earring wires, kidney shaped
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
• Needle, size 11
• Wire cutters
• Roundnose pliers
• Needle chainnose pliers

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 6mm twisted
Make ladder components
6mm bugle beadbugle bead
6mm bugle bead 1. Attach a stop bead on 1 yd. (.9m) of thread (Basic
15o seed bead
o
15 seed
150 seed beadbead Techniques, p. 9), leaving a 6-in. (15cm) tail.
2. Pick up two 6mm twisted bugle beads, and sew through
the bugles again in the same direction, positioning the
c beads side by side so the holes are parallel (figure 1, a–b).
3. Pick up a bugle, sew down through the previous bugle,
and then sew up through the new bugle (b–c).
4. Continue adding new beads as in step 3 (c–d) for a total
of 16 bugle beads.
5. Connect the last bugle bead added to the first by sewing
a b d
through the first bugle, and then back through the last
figure 1 bugle. Retrace the thread path to secure (figure 2, a–b).
6. Pick up three 150 seed beads, and sew through the next
bugle (b–c).
7. Repeat step 6 15 more times to add alternating three-
bead picots along each edge (c–d). End the threads (Basic
Techniques). Repeat to make a second ladder component.
b
Assemble the earrings
8. On a headpin, string a 10mm round bead, a ladder
component, and a 10mm. Make a simple loop at the end
c of the headpin (Basic Techniques), and connect it to the
a d
earring wire. Trim the wire, if necessary.
figure 2 9. Repeat step 8 to make a second earring.

tips
• The series of three beads added around the bugle
is known as a picot. This embellishment stitch will
be used in other projects throughout the book.
• To connect a component to a kidney-shaped ear-
ring wire, slide the looped end of the component
onto the open end of the earring wire and pinch
the section near the closing shut using needle
chainnose pliers. This prevents the component
from sliding around the earring wire.

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 Ladder Necklace
Bead multiple ladder-stitched components and string them
on beading wire between large gemstone beads and crystal
rondelles to make a strung necklace.

1. Refer to the Art Deco Earrings, p. 33. Follow steps 1–7 to

bead a total of 12 ladder-stitched components.
2. On a 25-in. (64cm) piece of beading wire, string a crimp
bead, an accu-guard, and a 3mm jump ring. Sew back
through the crimp, and crimp with crimping pliers (Basic
Techniques). Cover the crimp bead with a crimp cover, if
desired (Basic Techniques).
3. String a 10mm round, a 4mm crystal rondelle, a 10mm,
and a ladder component. Repeat to the desired length.
(When stringing the beads, make sure the last beads strung
mirror the first beads strung.)
4. Repeat step 2 to finish the other end of the necklace.
5. Connect the S-hook clasp to the jump rings on both ends
(Basic Techniques).

Supplies
necklace, 19 in. (48cm)
tips
• A round, a ladder component, and a round measures
• 35 10mm gemstone rounds
just under 1 in. (2.5cm). When determining your finished
• 5g 6mm bugle beads necklace length, make more or fewer ladder-stitched
• 2.5g 150 seed beads components as desired.
• 24 4x3mm rondelles • Replace the rounds with another type of 10mm bead,
• 2 crimp beads, #1 such as a glass pearl.
• 2 3mm crimp covers
• 2 3mm jump rings
• 2 accu-guards
• S-Hook clasp
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
• .018-in. beading wire, 49-strand count
• Needle, size 11
• Crimping pliers
• 2 pairs of needle chainnose pliers

* Will make 12 ladder components.

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 Fork in the
Road Necklace
This necklace features two ladder-stitched
strands paved together with pearls. If you
ever question which path to choose—
follow the one paved in pearls!

Supplies
necklace, 22 in. (56cm)
• 5 8mm crystal pearls
• 132 4mm fire-polished beads
• 14g 4mm cube beads
• 4g 110 seed beads
• 1g 150 seed beads
• Toggle bar clasp
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
• Needle, size 11

36

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 c d
8mm crystal pearl
8mm crystal pearl
m j
k
a b
4mm cube bead
4mm cube bead figure 1

4mm fire-polished bead

4mm firepolish bead i

1111
o 0 seed
seed bead bead
150 seed bead
15o seed bead h
l

Bead ladder-stitched strands

1. Attach a stop bead on a comfortable length of thread
(Basic Techniques, p. 9), leaving a 6-in. (15cm) tail.
g
2. Pick up two 4mm cube beads. Sew through the beads
again, positioning the beads side by side so the holes are
parallel (figure 1, a–b). f
3. Pick up a cube, sew through the previous cube, and then d
c
sew through the new cube (b–c).
b e
4. Continue adding new beads as in step 3 for a total of 72
cube beads (or the desired size; see “Tips”), adding and a
ending thread as necessary (Basic Techniques) (c–d). figure 2
5. Repeat steps 2–4 to make a second ladder-stitched strip.

Connect and embellish the strands

6. Start a new thread by attaching a stop bead on a
c
comfortable length of thread (Basic Techniques), and sew
through the first cube of the left ladder-stitched strip, from a
left to right (figure 2, a–b).
7. Pick up three 110 seed beads, and sew through the b
cube (b–c).
8. Pick up an 8mm pearl, and sew through the first cube
of the right ladder-stitched strip, from left to right (c–d).
9. Pick up three 110 seed beads, and sew through the
cube (d–e).
10. Sew through the next two cubes (e–f).
11. Pick up a pearl, sew through a cube, pick up three
110s, sew through the left cube, pearl, and right cube, pick
up three 110s, sew through the right cube, and then sew
through the next two cubes in the right row (f–g).
12. Repeat step 11 three more times (g–h).
13. Working on the right ladder-stitched strip, pick up three
110s, sew through the cube, pick up three 110s, sew through
the cube, and then sew through the next two cubes (h–i).
14. Repeat step 13 along the length of the right ladder-
stitched strip, stopping at the last cube (i–j).
15. Pick up eight 110s, and sew through the same cube in
the opposite direction (j–k). Retrace the thread path a few
times to reinforce the connection. This is where the clasp
will be attached later. Set this thread aside.
16. Start a new thread by attaching a stop bead on a
comfortable length of thread to the left ladder-stitched strip
above the pearls and work as in steps 13–15 on the second
ladder-stitched strip above the center pearls (l–m). figure 3
37

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 17. Using the thread set aside in step 15, sew through the
beadwork to exit the second 110 in the three-bead group
along the inside edge (figure 3, point a). Pick up a 150 seed
bead, a fire-polished bead, and a 150, and sew through the
second 110 in the next trio of 110s next to the cube (a–b).
18. Repeat step 17 around the entire length of the necklace
(b–c). Remove all stop beads, and end all threads.
Attach the clasp
19. Attach a jump ring to the beaded loops on each end of
the ladder-stitched strips and the toggle and bar section of
the clasp.
tips
• When connecting the ladder-stitched strips
with seed beads and pearls, it is best to work
with the beadwork on your bead mat instead
of holding it in your hand. I found it was easier
to bead this section of the necklace if I laid the
two ladder-stitched strips parallel to each other
and perpendicular to me on my bead mat.
• The amount of supplies listed will make a
22-in. (56cm) necklace. Make your initial ladder
stitched strands longer or shorter, depending
upon your desired length. Seven 4mm cube
beads is approximately 1 in. (2.5cm).

Supplies
Garden Path Bracelet
Forget about the fork in the road, and bead a singular
bracelet, 7 in. (18cm) pearl-paved path that ends in this statement bracelet.
• 27 6mm crystal pearls Follow very similar steps as the main project, but use smaller
• 52 4mm fire-polished beads cube beads and pearls.
• 6g 3mm cube beads
1. Refer to the Fork in the Road Necklace, p. 36. Follow
• 2g 110 seed beads steps 2–4 with 3mm cube beads for a total of 55 cubes, or
• 4 3mm jump rings until the ladder-stitched strand is the desired length. Repeat
• Two-strand clasp this step to make another short strand.
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test 2. Connect the ladder-stitched strands as in steps 6–12, but
• Needle, size 11 continue adding pearls and 110 seed beads for the entire
length of the strands.
3. On the last cube of both ends of each ladder-stitched
strip, work as in step 15. Remove the stop beads and end
all the threads. Attach a jump ring to the beaded loops on
each end of the ladder stitched strand and the toggle and
bar section of the clasp (Basic Techniques).

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 chutes
and Ladders
Bracelet
This bracelet features a two-hole bead strip
acting as the “ladders,” and the pearls and
seed beads acting as the “chutes” that go
from one end of the bracelet to the other.
This project is as whimsical and fun to wear
as playing the game once was.

Supplies
bracelet, 7 in. (18cm)
• 30–36 6mm crystal pearls
• 7g Tila beads
• 2.5g O-beads
• 11g 110 seed beads
• Four-strand clasp
• 8 4mm jump rings, unsoldered
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
• Needle, size 11
• 2 pairs of needle chainnose pliers

39

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tila bead
Tila bead
6mmcrystal
6mm pearl pearl
O bead
O-bead
o a
110 seed
11 seed bead
bead
figure 1
Bead ladder-stitch strands
1. Attach a stop bead on a comfortable length of thread
(Basic Techniques, p. 9), leaving a 6-in. (15cm) tail.
2. Pick up a Tila bead through the top hole (from left to
right). Pick up another Tila through the bottom hole (from
right to left). Sew back through the top hole of the first
Tila (from left to right) and through the bottom hole of the
second Tila (from right to left). Sew through the available
hole of the second Tila (from left to right) (figure 1, a–b).
3. Pick up a new Tila through the bottom hole (from right
to left). Sew back through the top hole of the previous Tila
(from left to right) and through the same hole of the new
Tila (from right to left). Sew through the top hole of the third
Tila (from left to right) (b–c).
4. Continue adding Tilas as indicated in step 3, ladder-
stitching a strip of Tilas the desired length of the finished
bracelet, adding and ending threads as necessary (Basic
Techniques). I used 37 Tilas in my 7-in. (18cm) bracelet.
note
The clasp will add approximately ½ in. (1.3cm) to the final
bracelet length.
5. Work as in steps 1–4, creating a second ladder-stitch strip
of Tilas the same length as the first one.
Connect the ladder strands
6. Exiting the bottom hole (from left to right) of the first Tila
in the left ladder strip, pick up 16 110 seed beads, and sew
through the top hole (from left to right) of the first Tila in the
right ladder strip (figure 2, a–b).
7. Sew through the nearest hole (from right to left) of the
40
BKS-67908-01.indd 40
e
d
c
b
c
b
a
figure 2
next Tila in the right ladder strip, and pick up five 110s,
an O-bead, a 6mm pearl, an O-bead, and five 110s, and
sew through the top hole (from right to left) of the
corresponding Tila in the left ladder strip (b–c).
8. Continue adding 110s, O-beads, and pearls as indicated
in step 7 for the entire length of the ladder strips, leaving
the last Tilas unconnected (c–d).
9. Exiting the bottom hole (from right to left) of the last Tila
in the right ladder strip, pick up 16 110s, and sew through
the top hole (from right to left) of the last Tila in the left
ladder strip (d–e).
10. Sew through the beadwork, hiding the thread path,
so the needle is exiting the top hole (from right to left) of
the last Tila of the right ladder strip. (Your needle will be
pointing toward the left ladder strip.) Pick up 16 110s, and
sew through the bottom hole (from right to left) of the last
Tila in the left ladder strip. Then sew through the top hole
(from right to left) of the next Tila (figure 3, a–b), working
toward the tail.
11. Continue adding 110s as directed in step 10 for the
entire length of the ladder strips, connecting all the Tilas in
both ladder strips (b–c). (The side with the pearls is the top,
or front, of the bracelet.)
Embellish the ladder strands
12. Exiting a top left hole of the top left Tila, pick up three
110s, and sew through the adjacent hole of the same Tila
(figure 4, a–b).
13. Sew through the left bottom hole of the new Tila (from
right to left) and pick up three 110s. Sew through the top
hole of the same Tila (b–c).
6/29/18 10:37 AM
 a

e
b

f
c b
c

g
figure 3 figure 4

14. Repeat step 13 until the entire ladder strip is

embellished (c–d).
15. Sew through the existing 16 110s so the needle is
exiting the first Tila on the other ladder strip (d–e).
16. Pick up three 110s, and sew through the adjacent hole
of the same Tila, skip the adjacent hole of the same Tila,
and sew through the nearest hole of the adjacent Tila (e–f).
17. Pick up three 110s, sew through the adjacent hole of the
same Tila, and sew through the next hole of the adjacent
Tila. Continuing adding 110s this way, until the second
ladder strip is embellished (f–g).

Attach the clasp and finish

18. Open eight jump rings (Basic Techniques). Attach a
jump ring through the end loop of the clasp and the last figure 5
strand of 110s connecting the last two Tilas on one end
of the bracelet. Close the ring. Continue to attach a
jump ring to each loop of the clasp and the strand of 110s
connecting the last two Tilas on each end of the bracelet.
Refer to figure 5. (The jump rings attached to the first and
second clasp loop are attached to a different strand of 110s
than the third and fourth clasp loops.) Repeat to attach
the other half of the clasp. End all working and tail threads
(Basic Techniques).

tip
• Each Tila has a top hole and a bottom hole. Each Tila also
has a flat bottom and slightly curved top. Be sure each
Tila is facing the same way when a new Tila is picked up.

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 Additional Supplies
• 2.5g 150 seed beads

Edge Embellishment
Bracelet
Instead of embellishing the ladder strands with a
picot edge, try embellishing the bracelet with this
figure 1 bead-rolled edge.

1. Refer to the Chutes and Ladders Bracelet, p. 39. Work as

in steps 1–11. Exiting a top left hole of the top left Tila, pick
up five 150 seed beads, and sew through the left hole (from
top to bottom) of the next Tila. Sew through the right hole
(from bottom to top) of the previous Tila (figure 1).
figure 2 2. Pick up five 150s, and sew through the right hole (from
top to bottom) of the next Tila. Sew through the left hole
(from bottom to top) of the same Tila (figure 2).
3. Work as in the previous step until the entire ladder strip
has been embellished (figure 3). Repeat along the other
side of the bracelet.
figure 3 4. Attach the clasp and finish as in the main project. End the
threads (Basic Techniques).

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 brick
Stitch
Lay the foundation for
a timeless piece

43

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 Stepping Stone
Bracelet
Learn how to bead the basic brick stitch with this
statement cuff bracelet. Use large seed beads with
a Picasso finish to give a natural, stone-like effect to
the finished piece and embellish the edges of the
bracelet with small metallic beads and a one-of-a-
kind button for a bracelet that is anything but basic.

Supplies
bracelet, 7 in. (18cm)
• 20g 60 seed beads
• 1g 110 seed beads
• Button with shank
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
• Needle, size 11

44

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 d c b
a b d
a
660oo seed
seed bead
bead
6
15oseed
seedbead
bead c
150o seed
11 seedbead
bead figure 1 figure 2

a b
c
c
b
f
a

e d
d

figure 3 figure 4

Brick stitch the bracelet
1. Attach a stop bead on a comfortable length of thread
(Basic Techniques, p. 9), leaving a 6-in. (15cm) tail.
2. Pick up two 60 seed beads, and sew through them both
again, positioning the beads side by side so the holes are
parallel (figure 1, a–b).
3. Pick up a 60, sew through the previous 60, and then sew
through the new 60 (b–c).
4. Continue adding new beads as in step 3, for a total of
six 60s (c–d).
5. Pick up two 60s, and sew under the thread bridge
between the first and second 60s in the previous row from
back to front and up through the second 60 just added
(figure 2, a–b).
6. Pick up a 60, and sew under the next thread bridge in
the previous row from back to front and then through the
new 60 (b–c).
7. Continue adding new 60s as in step 6, for a total of six
60s (c–d).
8. Continue adding new beads as in steps 5–7, ending and
adding thread as necessary (Basic Techniques), until the
bracelet reaches the desired length.
note
The clasp will add approximately ½-1 in. (1.3–2.5cm) to the
finished bracelet.
Embellish the bracelet
9. Exit an existing 60 along one edge of the bracelet,
pick up two 110 seed beads, and sew through the next 60
(figure 3, a–b). Continue adding 110s for the length of the
bracelet (b–c).
10. Sew through beads along the edge of the bracelet
so the needle is exiting a 60 along the opposite edge
(c–d). Work as in step 9 to embellish this edge of the
bracelet (d–e).
11. Sew through beads, hiding the thread path, so the
needle is exiting the third 60 in the first row of brick stitch
to be in position to attach the clasp (e–f).
Attach the clasp and finish
12. Pick up six 110s and the button, and sew through the
next 60 (figure 4, a–b). Retrace the thread path two more
times to reinforce the connection. End the thread.
13. Add a 12-in. (30cm) length of thread to the available
end of the bracelet, and sew through the beadwork to exit
the second 60 on this end of the bracelet. Pick up 28 110s,
and sew through the fifth 60 (b–c). Make sure the clasp loop
fits around the button. Increase or decrease the number of
110s added in this step to ensure a good fit. Retrace the
thread path two more times to reinforce the connection.
End all threads.
tip
• I used Picasso finish seed beads to make both bracelets.
I love the natural and organic look of the Picasso finish
because the beads mimic the beauty of a stone. Since
they have a very earthy look, I like to mix them with
metallic and galvanized finishes, like I did here, to add a
distinctive contrast.

45

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 Brick Bangle Bracelet
Make a bangle using the same technique, but with smaller
beads. Seamlessly bead it around a pre-fabricated metal
channel bangle. The addition of multi-colored 80 seed
beads also gives this project a different look.
Supplies
• 8.5g 80 seed beads, color A
• 5g 80 seed beads, color B
• 5g 80 seed beads, color C
• 1g 150 seed beads
• Wide metal channel bangle, 23/4 in. the two beaded ends. Follow the thread
diameter x 1 in. (7x2.5cm)
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
• Needle, size 11
46
BKS-67908-02.indd 46
1. Refer to the Stepping Stone bracelet,
p. 44. Follow steps 1–8 of the main
project for a total of seven rows with
color A 80 seed beads.
2. Repeat step 1 with color B 80 seed
beads.
3. Repeat step 1 with As.
4. Repeat step 1 with color C 80 seed
beads.
5. Repeat steps 1–4 two times, then
repeat steps 1, 2, and 4.
6. Stitch the last four rows following this
pattern: Row 1: As, Row 2: Bs, Row 3: As,
and Row 4: Cs.
7. Connect the beadwork around the
metal channel bangle by “zipping up”
path in figure 2 from the main project to
connect the beginning and end row of
brick stitch around the bangle.
8. Embellish the bracelet by following
steps 9 and 10 from the main project
using 150 seed beads.
tip
It takes 109 rows of brick stitch with
80 seed beads to fit around a 23/4-in.
(7cm) bangle. Have fun creating your own
unique pattern using this stitch.
6/29/18 10:37 AM
 Color Blocked
Collar
This necklace mimics the look of the
braided kumihimo technique, but uses flat
brick stitch, which is then “zipped up” to
create a tubular necklace with a colorful
center focal section that wraps around the
neck front and center.

a b d
660o seed
seedbead
bead
seedbead
880o seed bead c
figure 1

Supplies
necklace, 161/2 in. (41.9cm)
• 9.5g 60 seed beads
• 21.5g 80 seed beads
• 10–12mm magnetic barrel clasp
• Braided beading thread, 14-lb. test
• Needle, size 10
• E6000 adhesive
Make the collar
1. Attach a stop bead on a comfortable length of thread
(Basic Techniques, p. 9), leaving a 6-in. (15cm) tail.
2. Pick up two 80 seed beads, and sew through both beads
again, positioning the beads side by side so the holes are
parallel (figure 1, a–b).
3. Pick up an 80, sew through the previous 80, and then sew
through the new 80 (b–c).
4. Work as in step 3 for a total of six 80s (c–d).

47

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 5. Pick up two 80s, and sew under the thread bridge
between the first and second 80s in the previous row,
d c b from back to front, and continue through the second 80 just
added (figure 2, a–b).
a 6. Pick up an 80, and sew under the next thread bridge in
the previous row, from back to front, and continue through
figure 2 the new 80 (b–c).
7. Work as in step 6 for a total of six 80s (c–d).
8. Work as in steps 5–7 for a total of 80 rows or the desired
b c d size (see “Tip”) (figure 3, a–d), ending and adding thread
as necessary (Basic Techniques).
a
9. Pick up two 60 seed beads, and sew under the thread
bridge between the first and second 80s in the previous row,
from back to front, and continue through the second 60 just
figure 3 added (figure 4, a–b).
10. Pick up an 60, and sew under the next thread bridge in
the previous row from back to front and continue through
d c b the new 60 (b–c).
11. Work as in step 10, for a total of six 60s (c–d).
a 12. Repeat steps 9–11 for 20 rows.
13. Repeat steps 5–7 for a total of 80 rows.
14. Once the necklace reaches its desired length, exit
the last 80 in the last row. “Zip up” the rows by sewing
figure 4 through—in a zig zag direction—all the “up” beads on
both sides of the brick stitch rows. Reinforce the connection
by “zipping up” in the opposite direction to secure it
(figure 5). End all threads.

tips
• These instructions are for collar-style length. To make the
necklace larger, stitch additional rows during steps 8 and
13. You can always add rows of 80s on both sides of the
beadwork at the very end, before the necklace is “zipped
up.” 12 rows of brick stitch with 80s is approximately
1 in. (2.5cm).
• Heavier thread is used to add strength to the necklace
and prevent thread from tearing when it is “zipped up”
and curved into a collar. The large holes in the 60s and 80s
can accommodate the heavy thread.
• When gluing a clasp onto finished beadwork, separate
the clasp first and glue each clasp end to the jewelry.
Let the clasp components dry completely before closing
the clasp again. This will prevent any glue from leaking
into the magnetic chamber of the clasp, causing it to be
permanently glued together.

figure 5

48

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 Striped Collar
Create a spiraling stripe of two alternating colors to give this
color blocked collar even more character.

1. Refer to the Color Blocked Collar, p. 47. Follow steps 2–4

to bead row 1 using this sequence: A and B, A, B, A, B.
2. Follow steps 5–7 to bead row 2 using this sequence: B
and A, B, A, B, A.
3. Bead row 3 using this sequence: B and A, B, A, B, A.
4. Bead row 4 using this sequence: A and B, A, B, A, B.
5. Repeat the sequence as in rows 1–4 for 100 rows. Refer
to the figure for the pattern.
6. Switch to beading with 60s for 22 rows.
7. Repeat the sequence as in rows 1–4 for 100 rows.

tip
• The additional rows added in the 80 sections allows for figure
more rows in the center focal section of 60s, with the collar
still being able to curve as it must to maintain its shape.

Supplies
necklace, 20 in. (51cm)
• 10.5g 60 seed beads
• 14g 80 seed beads, color A
• 14g 80 seed beads, color A
• 10–12mm magnetic barrel clasp
• Braided beading thread, 14-lb. test
• Needle, size 10
• E6000 adhesive

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 Coiled Hoop
Earrings
Bead in brick stitch around a pre-fabricated earring
loop to make these sparkly statement stunners.
This project also teaches you how to bead a rolled
edge along the crystal beads.

Supplies
• 44 4x3mm crystal rondelles
• 2.5g 110 seed beads
• Pair of 37x26mm oval hoop earring wires
• Braided beading thread, 14-lb. test
• Needle, size 11

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 d a
a b
d
b c

4x3mm crystalrondelle
4x3mm crystal rondelle
11o
seed bead
15 seed bead
0

figure 1 figure 2

Make the earrings
1. On a comfortable length of thread, tie a square knot
around the back end of a looped earring wire, leaving a
6-in. (15cm) tail (Basic Techniques, p. 9).
2. Pick up two 4mm crystal rondelles, loop the thread
around the earring wire, and sew up through the second
rondelle (figure 1, a–b). (The first rondelle will not lay
flat against the ear loop; it will when later on when the
embellishment is added.)
3. Pick up a rondelle, loop the thread around the earring
wire, and sew up through the same rondelle (b–c).
4. Repeat step 3 all the way around the looped earring wire
for a total of 22 rondelles (c–d).
5. Exiting the last rondelle added, pick up seven 110 seed
beads, skip a rondelle, sew down through the next rondelle,
and sew up through the previous rondelle (figure 2, a–b).
6. Pick up seven 110s, skip a rondelle, sew down through
the next rondelle, and sew up through the skipped
rondelle (b–c).
7. Repeat step 6 until you sew through the first rondelle
added (c–d).
8. Loop the thread around the ear loop and up through
the first rondelle. At this point, the rondelle should lay flat
against the ear hoop like the rest of the rondelles. End all
threads (Basic Techniques).
9. Repeat to make a second earring.

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 Supplies
• 68 4x3mm crystal rondelles
• 4g 110 seed beads
• Pair of 56x38mm oval hoop
earring wires
• Braided beading thread, 14-lb. test
• Needle, size 11

Extra-Sized Earrings
Make a larger, more dramatic pair of coiled hoop earrings
by using a larger size earring wire hoop for these flashy
earrings.

1. Refer to the Coiled Hoop Earrings, p. 50. Work as in

steps 1–9, but repeat step 4 for a total of 34 rondelles.

tip
• Because the thread is exposed where it wraps around the
earring loop, I chose to bead with crystal (clear) thread so
the thread was less noticeable on the finished earring.

52

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 herringbone
Stitch Repeat this simple beading
mantra: two by two

53

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 Confetti
Bracelet
Learn the basic herringbone stitch while
beading this multi-strand bracelet.
Strands of herringbone are beaded with
seed beads and fun two-hole beads
that add pops of confetti into the
design every few rows. It’s a party
bracelet in every sense of the word!

Supplies
bracelet, 61/4 in. (15.9cm)
• 12 7mm two-hole cabochon beads,
color A
• 7 7mm two-hole cabochon beads,
color B
• 7.5g 80 seed beads
• Button with shank
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
• Needle, size 10

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 2-hole cabochon
two-hole bead,bead,
cabochon color Acolor A

two-hole cabochon
2-hole cabochon bead,bead,
color Bcolor B
e e

d
8o0 seed
seedbead
bead

c d

a b d c

c
b b
figure 1 f
a a

c b a
d

figure 2 figure 3 figure 4

Herringbone stitch three beaded
strands
1. Attach a stop bead on a comfortable length of thread,
(Basic Techniques, p. 9), leaving a 6-in. (15cm) tail.
2. Pick up four 80 seed beads, and sew through all four 80s
again, positioning the beads side by side so they form two
columns and the holes are parallel (figure 1, a–b).
3. Pick up two 80s, sew through the previous column of two
80s, and then sew through the new column again (b–c).
4. Work as in step 3 three more times (c–d).
5. Pick up two 80s, and sew down through the 80 in
the previous column and up through the following 80
(figure 2, a–b).
6. Repeat step 5 (b–c).
7. Pick up two 80s, and sew down through the next 80 (c–d).
8. Sew up through the adjacent 80, and sew diagonally up
through the last 80 added in the previous step. This is a
herringbone step-up (d–e).
9. Repeat steps 5–8 three more times.
10. Pick up two 80s, and sew down through the next 80
and up through the previous two 80s in the same row,
and continue through the first 80 added in this step
(figure 3, a–b).
11. Repeat step 10 four times (b–c).
12. Pick up a color A two-hole cabochon bead, sew down
through the available hole and next 80, and sew up through
the next 80 and A (c–d).
13. Pick up two 80s, sew down through the A and 80, and
sew up through the next 80, A, and 80 (d–e).
14. Repeat step 10 four times.
15. Repeat steps 12–14 to the desired length (see “Tips”),
adding and ending thread as needed (Basic Techniques).
Set the remaining thread aside.
16. Attach a comfortable length of thread to the
herringbone base, and exit the right bead in the middle
herringbone column (figure 4, point a).
17. Pick up two 80s, and sew down through the adjacent
80 and up through the corresponding two 80s (figure 4,
a–b).
18. Work as in steps 12–15 using Bs in place of As, and
referring to figure 4.
19. Attach a comfortable length of thread to the
herringbone base, and exit the right bead in the left
herringbone column (point f).
20. Work as in steps 10–15 to make a third herringbone
strand.

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e c
c a a f
b
figure 5
Connect the strands and add
the clasp
21. Bead the three herringbone strands together (with the
thread set aside from step 15), and sew through the top
row of beads using the ladder stitch, just as the initial row
of beads were stitched in steps 2–4 (figure 5, a–b).
22. Sew up through the next 80 and sew diagonally up
through the last 80 added (b–c).
23. Add three rows of herringbone by repeating steps 5–8
three times (figure 6).
a. Row 1 (black thread) (a–b)
b. Row 2 (red thread) (b–c)
c. Row 3 (blue thread) (c–d)
24. Even out the top beads in the last herringbone row by
sewing through the beads using the ladder stitch thread
path (d–e).
25. Step up (as in step 8), pick up enough 80s to securely
loop around the button clasp (I used 18 80s for a 16mm
button), and sew through the last 80 on the opposite end
of the row (e–f). Retrace the thread path to reinforce the
connection. End the working thread.
26. On the other end of the bracelet, pick up two 80s,
and sew down through the next 80 (figure 7, a–b).
27. Sew up through the next 80, continue through the
button shank, and sew down through the same 80. Sew
through the next 80 and the button shank, and down
through the same 80 (b–c). Retrace the thread path a few
times to reinforce the connection.
56
BKS-67908-02.indd 56
g
h
f
d e
d
b a
b c
figure 6 figure 7
28. Sew up through the next 80, pick up two 80s, and sew
down through the adjacent 80, up through the following
80, and diagonally up through the last 80 added (c–d).
29. Pick up two 80s, and sew down through the next 80 and
up through the button shank. Pick up two 80s, and sew
down through the button shank and up through the next
80. Pick up two 80s, sew down through the next 80, and
step up (d–e).
30. Repeat steps 5–8 two times (e–g).
31. Even out the top beads in the last herringbone row
by sewing through the beads using the ladder stitch (g–h).
End all threads.
tips
• The beaded clasp will be approximately 1 in. (2.5cm),
so determine how large you want the finished bracelet
length to be, and subtract an inch to determine the length
for the herringbone strips. You can add extra seed bead
rows to the clasp ends to make the bracelet longer.
• Do steps 2–4 look familiar? We are beading with the
herringbone stitch, but starting out the very first row with
ladder stitch, as in the Art Deco Earrings, p. 33.
• The two-hole cabochon beads have a flat side and a
curved side. Make sure these beads are all being added
to the beadwork with the curved side facing upwards.
• Any size button can be used for the clasp. Just be sure to
adjust the number of 80s added in step 25 so the beaded
loop fits around the button.
6/29/18 10:38 AM
 Honeycomb Bracelet
Create a bracelet using the same stitch and techniques as
Supplies
bracelet, 61/2 in. (16.5cm)
the main project, but use smaller seed beads, two-hole • 30 two-hole Honeycomb beads, color A
Honeycomb beads, and additional strands for a wider, • 22 two-hole Honeycomb beads, color B
more dramatic party bracelet. • 5g 110 seed beads
• Button with shank
1. Refer to the Confetti Bracelet, p. 54. Work as in steps 1–4
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
for a total of ten columns, replacing the 80s with 110 seed
beads to bead the first two rows. • Needle, size 11
2. Work as in step 5 five times to bead the third row.
3. Work as in step 8 to do a step-up.
4. Work as in steps 2 and 3 above three more times to
bead rows 4–6.
5. Bead three herringbone stitched strands using steps
10–23 of the main project as a guide, replacing the 80s
with 110s and the two-hole cabochon beads with two-hole
Honeycomb beads. Use the count of five 110 rows between
each two-hole bead row, and alternate the pattern between
the color A and color B beads as in the main project.

tip
• Because the beads are smaller in this project, more rows
will need to be beaded in each herringbone stitched
strand, so bead as many rows as necessary until you reach
the desired length.

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 Woven Web
Earrings
Weave a web of seed beads and crystals
around a metal open frame hoop to make a pair
of statement earrings. Use brick stitch to bead
around the metal circle and herringbone stitch
with increases to bead an embellished web.

Supplies
• 26 4mm bicone crystals
• 6.5g 80 seed beads
• 1.5g 110 seed beads
• 0.5g 150 seed beads
• 2 24.5mm open frame hoops
• Pair of earring wires
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
• Needle, size 11
• 2 pairs of needle chainnose pliers

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 e
d b
c
a 4mmbicone
4mm crystal bicone
crystal

808oseed
seed bead
bead
110oseed
11 seed bead
bead
150oseed
15 seed bead
bead

e figure 1 a g
f
a e b
c
b
d c d

figure 2 figure 3

Make the earrings 7. Repeat step 6 11 times (c–d).

1. On a comfortable length of thread, tie an overhand knot
around the metal circle, leaving a 6-in. (15cm) tail (Basic
Techniques, p. 9). Pick up two 80 seed beads, and sew
around the metal circle (from front to back) and up through
the last 80 (figure 1, a–b).
2. Pick up an 80, and sew around the metal circle (from front
to back) and up through the same 80 (b–c).
3. Repeat step 2 25 times (c–d).
4. To connect the last 80 added to the first (and to close the
small gap between the two beads), sew down through the
first 80, around the metal circle (from front to back), and up
through the first 80 again (d–e).
5. Pick up two 80s, and sew down through the
corresponding 80 in the previous round (figure 2, a–b).
6. Sew up through the next 80, pick up two 80s, and sew
down through the next 80 in the previous round (b–c).
8. Sew up through the next 80, pick up six 150 seed beads,
and sew down through the next 80 and step up through the
next two 80s (d–e) to be in position for the next round.
9. Pick up a 4mm bicone crystal and three 150s, and sew
down through the crystal and next 80 in the previous round
(figure 3, a–b).
10. Pick up an 110 seed bead, and sew up through the
following 80. Pick up two 80s, and sew down through the
next 80 (b–c).
11. Repeat step 10 ten times (c–d).
12. Pick up an 110, and sew up through the following 80.
Pick up a crystal and three 150s, and sew down through the
crystal and next 80 (d–e).
13. Pick up an 110, and sew through the second, third,
fourth, and fifth 150s (e–f).
14. Pick up an 110, and sew up through the next 80, skip the

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 a
b
e
c
f
d e
figure 4
crystal unit, and sew down through the following 80.
Continue through the 110 in the previous round and the
next two 80s (f–g).
15. Pick up a crystal and three 150s, and sew down through
the crystal and 80 (figure 4, a–b).
16. Pick up an 110, sew up through the nearest 80, pick up
two 80s, and sew down through the following 80 (b–c).
17. Repeat step 16 eight times (c–d).
18. Pick up an 110 seed bead, and sew up through the next
80. Pick up a crystal and three 150s, and sew down through
the crystal and following 80 (d–e).
19. Sew down through the 80 directly below the 80 your
thread is exiting and up through the previous 80 and the
last 110 added in step 18. Continue through the adjacent
two 80s. You will be working in a counter-clockwise direction
(e–f).
20. Continue beading the additional rows:
Row 5 (black thread path): Pick up a crystal and three 150s,
and sew down through the crystal and 80 (figure 5, a–b).
Pick up two 110s, sew up through the next 80, pick up two
80s, and sew down through the next 80 (b–c). Repeat six
times. Pick up two 110s, sew up through the next 80, pick up
a crystal and three 150s, and sew down through the crystal
and two 80s (d–e).
Row 6 (red thread path): Working clockwise, sew up
through the next 80, two 110s, and two 80s (e–f). Pick up a
crystal and three 150s, and sew down through the crystal
and 80 (f–g). Pick up three 110s, and sew up through the 80.
Pick up two 80s, and sew down through the next 80 (g–h).
Repeat four times (h–i). Pick up three 110s, sew up through
the next 80, pick up a crystal and three 150s, and sew down
through the crystal and two 80s (i–j).
Row 7 (blue thread path): Working counter-clockwise, sew
up through the next 80, three 110s, and two 80s (j–k). Pick up
a crystal and three 150s, and sew down through the crystal
and 80 (k–l). Pick up four 110s, and sew up through the next
80. Pick up two 80s, and sew down through the next 80 (l–m).
60
BKS-67908-02.indd 60
a f
d
b g
j o
c
h
i
n
k l
s m q p
r u
t
figure 5
Repeat two times (m–n). Pick up four 110s, sew up through
the next 80, pick up a crystal and three 150s, and sew down
through the crystal and two 80s (n–o).
Row 8 (green thread path): Working counter-clockwise,
sew up through the next 80, four 110s, and two 80s (o–p).
Pick up a crystal and three 150s, and sew down through the
crystal and 80 (p–q). Pick up five 110s, sew up through the
next 80, pick up two 80s, and sew down through the next
80 (q–r). Pick up five 110s, sew up through the 80. Pick up
a crystal and three 150s, and sew down through the crystal
and two 80s (r–s).
Row 9 (red thread path): sew up through the next 80, five
110s, and two 80s (s–t). Pick up a crystal and three 150s, and
sew down through the crystal and two 80s (t–u).
21. End all threads. (Basic Techniques). Open the earring
wire and close around the loop of 150s added in step 8.
22. Repeat steps 1–21 to make a second earring.
tips
• Do steps 1–4 look familiar? The majority of these earrings
are beaded with herringbone stitch, but the very first row
of this project is beaded with brick stitch, beading around
a metal shape as in the Coiled Hoop Earrings, p. 50.
• You could sew through the loop of the earring wire while
beading the beaded loop in step 8 and connect the
finding to the earring component at this time—then you
wouldn’t need two pliers to open the earring wire and
attach it at the end. But I don’t like the earring wire
flopping around while I bead the rest of the earring, so
I opted to attach it at the end with the pliers.
6/29/18 10:38 AM
 Supplies
• 24.5mm open frame hoop
• 3.5g 80 seed beads
• 0.75g 110 seed beads
• 0.5g 150 seed beads
• 13 4mm bicone crystals
• 6mm jump ring, unsoldered
• 9mm jump ring, unsoldered
• 1 yd. (.9m) metal chain, fine textured cable
• Lobster clasp
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
• Needle, size 11
• 2 pairs of needle chainnose pliers

Woven Web Pendant

Weave one web of seed beads and crystals around a metal
open frame hoop using the stitch and techniques in the
main project to create a focal pendant that dangles on a
metal chain.

1. Refer to the Woven Web Earrings, p. 58. Work as in steps

1–21 to make one beaded component.
2. Open the 9mm jump ring, and close around the beaded
loop. Pass the metal chain through the jump ring on the
beaded necklace component, and attach a 6mm jump ring
to one end of the chain and a lobster clasp to the other end.

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 Colonnade
Chains Necklace
This necklace takes the herringbone stitch to
the next level with tubular construction. Using
a combination of seed beads, two-hole beads,
and small pearls, a column is beaded in tubular
herringbone stitch and multiple beaded
columns are connected to a multi-strand clasp
to create a layered necklace.

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 half tila bead
half-Tila bead
3mm crystal
3mm crystalpearl
pearl, color A
11o seed
3mm crystal
beadpearl, color B
o
150 seed
15 seed bead
bead

a d
b
figure 1 figure 2 figure 3 figure 4

figure 5 figure 6 figure 7 figure 8

Make seed bead rows

Supplies
necklace, 24 in. (61cm)
• 7.5g half-Tila beads, color A
• 3.5g half-Tila beads, color B
• 180 3mm crystal pearls, color A
• 84 3mm crystal pearls, color B
• 7g 110 seed beads, color A
• 7g 110 seed beads, color B
• 0.25g 150 seed beads
• Three-strand slider clasp
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
• Needle, size 11
1. On a comfortable length of thread, using color A 110 seed
beads and leaving a 6-in. (15cm) tail, make a four-bead lad-
der: Pick up two As and sew through both As again, position-
ing them side by side so the holes are parallel (figure 1, a–b).
2. Pick up an A, sew through the previous A, and continue
through the new A (b–c). Repeat this stitch once (c–d).
3. To connect the strip, sew up through the first A, down
through the last A, and up through the first A again (figure 2).
4. Subsequent rows are worked as follows:
- Pick up two As, sew down through the adjacent A in the
previous row and up through the next A (figure 3).
- Pick up two As, sew down through the adjacent A in the
previous row and up through the next A in the previous row
and the first A added in this row (figure 4). Repeat for a total
of 10 rows.

Half-Tila and pearl section

5. Pick up a half-Tila bead, sew down through the available
hole of the same half-Tila, sew down through the next 110,
and up through the next 110 (figure 5).
6. Pick up a half-Tila, and sew down through the available
hole of the same half-Tila. Sew down through the next 110
and up through the following 110 and continue through the
first hole of the half-Tila (figure 6).
7. Pick up two 3mm pearls, sew down through the available
hole of the half-Tila, and up through the first hole of the next
half-Tila (figure 7).
8. Pick up two pearls, sew down through the available hole
of the half-Tila, and sew up through the first hole of the next
half-Tila and the pearl (figure 8).
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 9. Pick up a half-Tila, and sew down through the available
hole of the same half-Tila and the pearl below. Sew up
through the next pearl (figure 9).
10. Pick up a half-Tila, and sew down through the available
hole of the same half-Tila and the pearl below. Sew up
through the next pearl and the corresponding hole of the
half-Tila (figure 10).
Short strand
11. On a comfortable length of thread, leaving a 6-in.
(15cm) tail, work as in steps 1–4, then repeat step 4 for a
total of five seed bead rows using color A seed beads.
12. Work as in steps 5–10 to stitch a half-Tila and pearl
section with color A beads.
13. Repeat steps 11 and 12 18 times, ending and adding
thread as needed (Basic Techniques, p. 9). Then work as
in step 11 to end with five seed bead rows.
14. Connect the strand to the right loop of the clasp,
following step 23 below.
Medium strand
15. Work as in steps 1–4 with color B 110 seed beads. Then
repeat step 4 for a total of 10 seed bead rows.
16. Work as in steps 5–10 to stitch a half-Tila and pearl
section with Bs.
17. Repeat steps 15 and 16 19 times with Bs.
18. Work as in step 15 to create five seed bead rows with Bs.
19. Connect the strand to the middle loop of the clasp
following step 23 below.
figure 9
64
BKS-67908-02.indd 64
Long strand
20. Work as in steps 11 and 12 using As.
21. Repeat steps 11 and 12 23 times with As, ending and
adding thread as needed.
22. Connect the strand to the left loop of the clasp
following step 23 below.
Connecting the strands to the clasp
23. Pick up six 150 seed beads and sew through the clasp
loop and down through the diagonal 110 (figure 11). Sew
up through the next 110, the six 150s, and the clasp loop.
Sew down through the caddy corner 110. Repeat two more
times to reinforce the thread path. Repeat this entire step
on the other end of the rope to connect the other end of
the strand to the corresponding loop on the other half of
the clasp.
tips
• I connect my beadwork to the clasp while the clasp is
closed. This helps ensure the clasp is connected in the
right orientation. This is especially helpful when attaching
multiple strands of beadwork to a multi-strand clasp; if
they are not aligned correctly, the jewelry will not lay right.
• I used similar colors for all three strands, but alternated
the finish and colors within each color section.
• To make a monochromatic colorway more vibrant, select
beads of the same color in varying shades and tones, and
with varying finishes, such as matte, opaque, transparent,
silver-lined, metallic, and iris.
a c b
figure 10 figure 11
6/29/18 10:38 AM
 Lovely Long Necklace
Bead one long strand of tubular herringbone instead of
three separate strands. This necklace can be worn as a long
necklace or wrapped around a few times for a layered look.

1. Refer to the Colonnade Chains Necklace, p. 62. Follow

steps 1–4, then repeat step 4 to stitch five seed bead rows
with color A beads.
2. Bead five seed bead rows with color B beads.
3. Work as in step 5 to bead a half-Tila and pearl section
with color B beads.
4. Bead five seed bead rows with color B beads.
5. Repeat steps 1–5 for the desired length.
6. Connect the strand to a closed jump ring as in step 23.
Attach a lobster clasp to one end of the strand with a
jump ring.

tip
• Wear this long tubular herringbone strand wrapped around
your wrist a few times as a stylish multi-strand bracelet.

Supplies
necklace, 39 in. (.99m)
• 3.5g half-Tila beads, color A
• 3.5g half-Tila beads, color B
• 76 3mm crystal pearls, color A
• 74 3mm crystal pearls, color B
• 3.5g 110 seed beads, color A
• 3.5g 110 seed beads, color B
• 0.25g 150 seed beads
• Lobster clasp
• 6mm jump ring, unsoldered
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
• Needle, size 11

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 netting
Stitch Weave a web of beads
that sparkles and shines

66

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 Luminous
Lattice Bangle
Learn basic, flat netting with this lit-from-within bracelet.
Explore the workings of the netting stitch, beading enough
seed bead rows to fit around a metal bangle. Connect the
ends of the beadwork around the bangle, and add faceted
fire-polished beads.

Supplies
• 76 4mm fire-polished beads
• 4g 80 seed beads
• 6g 110 seed beads
• Wide metal channel bangle, 23/4-in. (7cm)
diameter x 1 in. (2.5cm)
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
• Needle, size 11

67

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 g

4mm fire-polished
4mm firepolish bead bead f
880o seed
seedbead
bead d e
11o0seed
seedbead
bead c b
11
a

figure 1

i h g
a
b

Bead open netting rows c

1. Attach a stop bead on a comfortable length of thread
(Basic Techniques, p. 9), leaving an 18-in. (46cm) tail. The
tail thread will be used to connect the bracelet around the
metal bangle at the end.
2. Pick up an 80 seed bead and two 110 seed beads, in
sequence, three times. Pick up three 110s, an 80, and
two 110s, turn and skip the last 80, and sew through the
following 80 (figure 1, a–b).
3. Pick up two 110s, an 80, and two 110s, and sew through
the first 80 added in step 2 (b–c). This completes the first
and second netting rows.
4. Pick up three 110s, an 80, and two 110s, and sew through
the next 80 in the previous row (c–d).
5. Pick up two 110s, an 80, and two 110s, and sew through
the next 80 in the previous row (d–e).
6. Repeat steps 4 and 5. This is one complete netting
row (e–f).
7. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for a total of 38 rows (f–g), ending
and adding thread as needed (Basic Techniques).
Connect the rows and embellish
8. Wrap the beadwork around the metal channel bangle.
It will be loose around the bangle. The next few steps will
tighten it up.
9. Using the tail thread from step 1, and exiting an 80 from
one end of the beadwork, pick up three 110s and sew
through the 80 from the other end of the beadwork
(figure 2, a–b).
10. Pick up two 110s, and sew through the next 80 on the
first end of the beadwork (shown in blue) (b–c).
11. Pick up two 110s, and sew through the next 80 on the
other end of the beadwork (shown in green) (c–d).
12. Repeat step 10 (d–e).
13. Pick up three 110s, and sew through the last 80 from the
other end of the beadwork (shown in green) (e–f). Retrace
the thread path to reinforce the connection.
d
f
e
figure 2
14. Sew through the beadwork, following the thread path,
to exit a second 110 on the edge of the beadwork (f–g).
15. Pick up a 4mm fire-polished bead, and sew through the
second 110 in the next three-bead set along the edge (g–h).
Repeat this stitch to embellish each edge of the beadwork
(h–i). End the threads.
tips
• The series of three 110s added in step 4 and all
subsequent rows will become a three-bead picot along
the edge of the finished beadwork. You’ll really notice it
when you add the fire-polished bead embellishments in
step 16.
• Remember how you zipped up the peyote beadwork
around the channel bead in the All Together Leather
Tassel Earring project, p. 13? Well, you’re doing the
same thing around the metal channel bangle, but with
netting stitch. It’s the same concept with a different stitch.
• You can weave with netting stitch to your desired length
and instead of zipping up the ends around a bangle,
attach a clasp as in the Netted Necklace, p. 69. Omit
the 4mm fire-polished beads altogether when beading a
regular bracelet, or replace them with 3mm fire-polished
beads or 80s.

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 Netted Necklace
Using the same stitch and technique as the main project,
bead a necklace using the flat netting stitch and include the
fire-polished bead embellishments in each row as it is being
beaded, instead of adding it to the beadwork later. The
beadwork can curve on its own, just by altering a few of the
beads being added in every other row.

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 1. Refer to the Luminous Lattice Bangle, p. 67. Attach a
stop bead on a comfortable length of thread, leaving an
f 18-in. (46cm) tail. The tail thread will be used to connect the
e clasp at the end.
c
2. Work as in step 1 and 2 from the main project
d (figure 1, a–b).
b 3. Pick up an 110, a fire-polished bead, an 110 seed bead,
a an 80, and two 110s, and sew through the next 80 from the
figure 1 previous row (b–c).
4. Pick up two 110s, an 80, and two 110s, and sew through
the next 80 in the previous row (c–d).
5. Work as in steps 4 and 5 from the main project. This
d c
completes one netting row (d–e).
b 6. Repeat steps 3 and 4 from this project. This completes
a
one alternate netting row (e–f).
7. Repeat steps 5 and 6 from this project, beading alternate
netting rows, until the necklace reaches the desired length,
ending and adding thread as needed.
8. To connect the clasp, first bead a netted row as in step 5
(figure 2, a–b).
9. Sew through the beadwork to exit the first 80 added in
figure 2 step 8 (b–c).
10. Pick up two 110s, the loop of the one end of the
magnetic clasp, and two 110s, and sew through the next 80

Supplies
necklace, 18 in. (46cm)
• 74 4mm fire-polished beads
• 7.5g 80 seed beads
• 10.5g 110 seed beads
• Magnetic clasp with loops
• 6-lb. test braided beading thread
• Needle, size 11
(c–d). Retrace the thread path to reinforce the connection,
and end the working thread.
11. Repeat steps 8–10 from this project to add the
other end of the clasp to the other end of the necklace.
End all threads.
tip
• What makes these netting rows curve is the alternating
rows: one with three 110s along the edge and the other
with an 110, a fire-polished bead, and an 110.

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 Dew Drop
Lariat
This lovely lariat is open in
the center, which makes for a
wonderful rope that can easily
be looped around your neck and
adjusted to any length.

Supplies
lariat, 33 in. (84cm)
• 7g 3.4mm drop beads
• 27g 110 seed beads, color A
• 6g 110 seed beads, color B
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
• Needle, size 11

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 c b b
a
d a a

b
c
c

figure 1 figure 2 figure 3 figure 4

b c
a 3.4mm
3.4mmdrop
drop bead
bead
1111
0 seed
o
seedbead, colorAA
bead, color
o
1111 seedbead,
0 seed bead, color
colorBB

figure 5 figure 6

Repeat this step two more times to complete an increased

Make the lariat
1. On a comfortable length of thread, pick up two color A
110 seed beads and one color B 110 seed bead six times for
a total of 18 beads (figure 1). Tie the beads into a ring with
an overhand knot (Basic Techniques, p. 9), leaving a 6-in.
(15cm) tail.
2. Pick up two As, a B, and two As, skip a B, and sew
through the next B in the previous row (figure 2, a–b).
3. Repeat step 2 two more times (b–c).
4. Sew through the first two As and B added in step 2 (c–d).
This is a step-up and places the thread in position to begin
the next row.
5. Repeat steps 2 and 3 to add anther row of netting
(figure 3, a–b).
6. Step up as described in step 4 (b–c).
7. Repeat steps 2–4, adding netting rows and stepping up
for a total of 226 rows, or until the lariat reaches the desired
length (see “Tips”), adding and ending thread as needed
(Basic Techniques).
8. To bead the embellished ends of the lariat, exit a B,
pick up two As, a drop bead, and two As, skip a B, and
sew through the next B from the previous row. Repeat this
step two more times to complete a row with drop beads
(figure 4, a–b).
9. Step up by sewing through the first two As and one drop
bead added in step 8 (b–c).
10. Repeat steps 8 and 9 for a total of five rows.
11. Exit a drop, pick up three As, a drop, and three As, skip
a drop, and sew through the next drop in the previous row.
row of netting with drops (figure 5, a–b).
12. Step up by sewing through the first three As and drop
added in step 11 (b–c).
13. Repeat steps 11 and 12 for a total of 10 rows.
14. For the last row, exit a drop, pick up seven drops, skip a
drop, and sew through the next drop from the previous row.
Repeat this step two more times to complete an increased
row of netting with drops (figure 6).
15. Repeat steps 8–13 on the other end of the lariat. End
the threads.
tips
• The very ends of each side of the lariat—with the drop
bead embellishments—are 2 in. (5cm) long. Keep that
in mind when determining the desired length.
• I like to bead the lariat from the center to one end and
then go back to the center and continue beading toward
the other end until the lariat is approaching my desired
length. Then I bead the finishing rows of the second end
when I am pleased with the length.
• Drop beads are available in two sizes: 2.8mm and 3.4mm.
I like 3.4mm drops because they are available in a larger
variety of color options and the larger size provides more
of a distinction in the projects, but ALL of the projects will
work using 2.8mm drops.

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 Drops and More
Drops Lariat
This necklace includes drop beads in every row of netting.
This project also includes instructions on how to add a clasp
to a tubular netting stitched piece.

1. Refer to the Dew Drop Lariat, p. 71. On a comfortable

length of thread, pick up two 110 seed beads and a drop
bead six times for a total of 18 beads. Tie the beads into a
ring using an overhand knot, leaving a 6-in. (15cm) tail.
2. Pick up two 110s, a drop, and two 110s, skip a drop, and
sew through the drop from the previous row. Repeat this
step two more times to complete the row.
3. Sew through the first two 110s and one drop added
in step 2. This is a step-up and places the thread in
position to begin the next row.
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3, adding netting rows and
stepping up for a total of 182 rows, or until the
necklace reaches the desired length, ending and
adding thread as necessary.
5. To add the clasp, exit a drop at the very end of
the necklace, and pick up two 110s, a crimp bead,
and two 110s. Sew through the drop directly opposite
the drop where the thread is exiting, sew back through
the newly added two 110s, crimp bead, and two 110s,
and sew through the drop in the opposite direction
(figure). Retrace the thread path a few times to
reinforce the connection.
6. Repeat step 5 on the other end of the necklace.
End all threads.

figure

Supplies
necklace, 22 in. (56cm)
• 27.5g 3.4mm drop beads
• 18g 110 seed beads
• Magnetic clasp
• 2 1.5mm crimp beads
• 2 3mm jump rings,
unsoldered
• Braided beading thread,
6-lb. test
• Needle, size 11
• 2 pairs of needle chainnose
pliers

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 Quirky Quilted
Drop Earrings
These earrings are a variation of tubular
netting, with each netted row filled with
crystal pearls. This variation is referred to
as filled tubular netting stitch, and it creates
a sturdy component for earrings.

Supplies
• 18 6mm crystal pearls
• 2g 3.4mm drop beads
• 1.5g 110 seed beads
• 2 2-in. (5cm) headpins
• Pair of kidney-shaped earring wires
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
• Needle, size 11
• 2 pairs of needle chainnose pliers
• Wire cutters
• Roundnose pliers

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 e
d

a
c
b
6mm crystal
6mm crystalpearl
pearl

3.4mm dropbead
3.4mm drop bead

11
110o seed bead
seed bead

figure 1 figure 2

b
a d
c
b
a

figure 3 figure 4 figure 5

Stitch the earring components
1. On a comfortable length of thread, pick up a 6mm pearl,
a drop bead, a pearl, a drop, a pearl, and a drop, for a total
of six beads. Tie the beads into a ring using an overhand
knot (Basic Techniques, p. 9) (figure 1), leaving a 6-in.
(15cm) tail.
2. Pick up three 110s, a drop, and three 110s, and sew
through the next drop in the previous row (figure 2, a–b).
3. Repeat step 2 two more times (b–c).
4. Sew through the first three 110s and one drop added in
this row. This is a step-up (c–d).
5. Pick up a pearl, and sew through the next drop. Repeat
two more times (d–e).
6. Repeat steps 2 and 3 to bead another tubular netting
row (figure 3, a–b).
7. Step up as in step 4 (b–c).
8. Repeat step 5 to bead a tubular netting row that fills in
the previous netting row (c–d).
9. Repeat steps 6–8.
10. Repeat step 6 (figure 4, a–b).
11. Repeat step 7 (b–c).
12. Sew through the next two drops (figure 5). Retrace the
thread path a few times to reinforce the connection.
13. Sew through the beadwork, following the thread path,
to exit a drop on the opposite end of the beadwork (a drop
from step 1).
14. Repeat steps 2–4.
15. Repeat step 12. End all working and tail thread
(Basic Techniques).
16. Repeat to make a second earring component.
Assemble the earrings
17. String an earring component on a headpin and make
a simple wire loop (Basic Techniques). Connect the loop
to the earring wire. Pinch the loop on the earring wire to
ensure the connection.
18. Repeat to connect the second earring.
tip
• These quirky quilted drop components make great
beaded beads. String them on beading wire with other
beads to make a necklace like the one on p. 111.

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 Quilted Necklace
Bead one longer component—a quintessentially
quirky quilted drop—using the filled tubular
Supplies
Tubular netting component, 31/2 in. (8.9cm)
netting technique described above and attach it • 3g 110 seed beads
to a metal chain to make a necklace.
• 3g 3.4mm drop beads
• 48 8mm crystal pearls
1. Refer to the Quirky Quilted Drop Earrings,
p. 74. Work as in steps 2–5 until the filled netting • 6 in. (15cm) 18-gauge craft wire
component reaches the desired length. • 14 in. (36cm) metal chain, large oval cable
2. Work as in steps 2–4 and step 12 on both ends • 3mm jump ring
of the component. End the threads. • 15mm lobster clasp
3. String the component on the craft wire and
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
make a simple loop on each end.
• Needle, size 11
4. Using wire cutters, cut the chain into two
equal pieces. • Wire cutters
5. Attach one end of each piece of chain to • Roundnose pliers
each loop of the craft wire. • 2 pairs of needle chainnose pliers
6. On one available end of the piece of chain,
attach a lobster clasp using a jump ring.

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 square
Stitch
A basic shape can lead
to many new ideas

77

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 Garden Party
Bracelet
Learn to bead the basic square stitch using a
vibrant blend of complementary colored beads.
This is a great project for bead soup mixes, as the
variety of bead colors and finishes paint a beautiful
garden on your wrist. Accented with a quick and
easy button clasp, this bracelet will bloom faster
than the flowers outside.

Supplies
• 23g 60 seed beads, bead soup mix
• 0.5g 110 seed beads
• 20mm button with shank
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
• Needle, size 11

78

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 20mmwith
button button with shank
shank
660o seed
seed bead
bead a b
o
110 seed
11 seedbead
bead figure 1
b a
figure 3 figure 4
Make the bracelet
1. Attach a stop bead on a 1-yd. (.9m) length of thread
(Basics Techniques, p. 9), leaving a 6-in. (15cm) tail.
2. Pick up six 60 seed beads. Each row for this project will
have six 60s (figure 1, a–b).
3. Pick up a 60, and sew through the last 60 added from the
previous row and back through the new 60 (b–c).
4. Pick up a 60, sew through the 60 directly below it in the
previous row, and then sew through the newly added 60
(figure 2).
5. Repeat step 4 four more times to complete the second
row (figure 3, a–b).
6. Continue adding beads as in step 4, always adding a
total of six new 60s in each row, until the bracelet reaches
the desired length (b–c), adding and ending thread as
needed (Basic Techniques).
7. Exiting between the second and third 60 of the
second-to-last row, pick up the button shank and sew
through the fourth and third 60. Retrace the thread path
and then sew though the fourth and third 60 of the third
row. Continue through the button shank to keep the button
clasp stable. Retrace the thread path to reinforce the
connection (figure 4).
8. Exiting between the first and second bead of the last row,
pick up enough 110 seed beads to securely loop around the
button clasp. Sew through the fifth, fourth, third, and second
60s of the last row. Retrace the thread path to reinforce the
connection (figure 5). End all threads.
BKS-67908-03.indd 79
c
figure 2
figure 5
tips
• As with any stitch, the first few rows can sometimes be a
little uneven. To help get the first few rows of the square
stitch even, sew through all the beads in the recently
completed row and then sew through the previous row
and back through the new row. This provides extra
tension and support to keep the rows straight.
• To determine how many beads will securely loop around a
button closure, count the beads as you are adding them,
and sew through the beadwork. Before reinforcing your
thread path, hold the thread tightly so the newly added
beads do not come loose, and test the loop around the
button clasp. You should be able to loop around the
button without too much struggle, yet still have it loop
around the button securely. Adjust the number of beads
in the loop accordingly to accommodate the button, and
then reinforce the thread path and end your thread.
• You can purchase coordinated bead soup seed bead
mixes or make your own by mixing colors in a variety of
finishes. Just make sure the beads are all the same shape
and size for this particular project.
79
6/29/18 10:39 AM
 Embellished Bracelet
Use the square stitch to bead a bracelet base and then
Supplies
embellish it with additional beads using the stop stitch. • 23g 60 seed beads, bead soup mix
I used the same bead soup mix as I did for the main project, • 8g 80 hex beads
and you can see how the addition of the stop stitch really • 10g 110 seed beads
takes the bracelet to the next level—literally! • Three-strand bar clasp
• 6-lb. test braided beading thread
1. Refer to the Garden Party Bracelet, p. 78. Bead a square
• Needle, size 11
stitch bracelet base following steps 1–6 of the main project
using 80 hex beads.
2. Exiting between the first and second 80 in the first
row, pick up three 110 seed beads, a 60 seed bead, and
an 110. Sew back through a 60 and three 110s and into the
second 80 of the bracelet base. Exit between the second
and third 80 (figure 1, a–b).
3. Pick up two 110s, a 60 seed bead, and an 110. Sew back
a
through the 60 and two 110s and into the third 80 of the
a
bracelet base. Exit between the third and fourth 80 (b–c).
b
4. Alternate between picking up three 110s, a 60, and an
c b
110—and two 110s, a 60, and an 110 all along the row,
sewing back through the beads and into the 80s for the rest e
of the row. (Pick up a series of beads and stop-stitch back
into the bracelet base in between EACH 80 of the bracelet d c
base (c–d).)
5. Begin embellishing a new row by sewing through the last figure 1 figure 2
80 of one row and into the first 80 of the next row (d–e).
6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until every row of the bracelet base
is embellished, adding and ending thread as needed.
7. Add a three-strand bar clasp to the ends to create a 8. Connect the bracelet to the clasp as in step 7 of this
seamless closure for the bracelet: Exiting between the first project using stop stitch two more times (b–c). Then retrace
and second 80 of the last row, pick up two 110s and an end the thread path to reinforce the connection.
loop of the clasp, pick up a 60 and an 110, and then sew 9. Repeat steps 7 and 8 with the other part of the clasp on
through the 60, clasp loop, and two 110s. Sew through the the other end of the bracelet. End all threads.
second and third 80, exiting between the third and fourth
bead (figure 2, a–b).

tip
• You are beading a stop stitch
in step 2. The last 110 that is
skipped before sewing through
the rest of the beads STOPS the
rest of the beads from coming
loose. You’ll use this stitch again
in another project.

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 Circlet Collar
Square-stitched squares are beaded and strung
together to form this circular collar reminiscent of
something Cleopatra would wear.

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 88o 0hex
hexbead,
bead,color A A
color
88o 0hex
hexbead,
bead,color B B
color
d c
88o 0hex
hexbead,
bead,color C C
color
o
11
110seed
seedbead, color
bead, A A
color b
o
a
11 seed bead, color
110 seed bead, colorB B
11o figure 1
110seed
seedbead, color
bead, C C
color

figure 2

Square-stitch the square components Connect the square-stitched squares

1. Attach a stop bead on a 1-yd. (.9m) length of thread
(Basic Techniques, p. 9), leaving a 6-in. (15cm) tail.
2. Pick up nine color A 80 hex beads. Each row of this
project will have nine 80s (figure 1, a–b).
3. Pick up an A 80, and sew through the last A 80 added in
the previous row and back through the new A 80 (b–c).
4. Repeat step 3 to complete the row. Each row will always
have a total of nine beads (c–d).
5. Square stitch another row with A 80s. The beadwork
should now have three rows of square stitch with color A 80
hex beads.
6. Following steps 3–5, square stitch three rows with color B
80 hex beads.
7. Following steps 3–5, square stitch three rows with color
C 80 hex beads. The beadwork should now have a total of
nine rows. End all threads (Basic Techniques).
8. Repeat steps 1–7 for a total of 13 square stitch squares.
9. Add a new thread (Basic Techniques) to one of the
square stitched squares, and exit the first A 80 in the first
row of the square (figure 2, point a).
10. Pick up 10 color A 110s, and sew through the first two A
80s in the first row and then the first two A 80s in the second
row of another square-stitched square (a–b).
11. Repeat step 10 using the following sequence (see
figure 2), making sure the newly added 110s are aligned
with their 80 hex bead counterpart:
- 11 A 110s (red thread path)
- 12 A 110s (blue thread path)
- 13 color B 110 seed beads (green thread path)
- 14 B 110s (pink thread path)
- 15 B 110s (yellow thread path)
- 16 color C 110 seed beads (dark green thread path)
- 17 C 110s (tan thread path)
- 18 C 110s (purple thread path)

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 Supplies
necklace, 20 in. (51cm)
figure 3

• 80 hex beads, 8g each in colors A, B, C

• 4g 110 seed beads, color A
• 5g 110 seed beads, color B
• 5.5g 110 seed beads, color C
• Five-strand clasp
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
• Needle, size 11

12. Repeat steps 10 and 11 six more times, connecting
seven square-stitched squares. (The increasing number of
110s between the square-stitched squares creates the
shape of this necklace.)
13. Connect both the first and last square-stitched square
from steps 10 and 11 to another square-stitched square
using the following sequence:
- 10 A 110s (three times)
- 10 B 110s (three times)
- 10 C 110s (three times)
14. Connect two square-stitched squares to each end of
the beadwork using the sequence of beads from steps 11
and 12.
15. To connect the last square-stitched squares to the clasp,
use the following sequence (figure 3):
- 10 A 110s to the first clasp loop (black thread path)
- 12 A 110s to the second clasp loop (red thread path)
- 12 A 110s to the second clasp loop (red thread path)
- 14 B 110s to the third clasp loop (blue thread path)
- 14 B 110s to the third clasp loop (blue thread path)
- 16 B 110s to the fourth clasp loop (green thread path)
- 16 C 110s to the fourth clasp loop (green thread path)
- 18 C 110s to the fifth clasp loop (pink thread path)
- 18 C 110s to the fifth clasp loop (pink thread path)
16. Retrace the thread paths connected to the clasp to
reinforce the connection.
17. Repeat steps 15 and 16 to connect the other side of the
clasp to the rest of the beadwork. End all threads.
tip
• If you have a lot of thread left over after beading one of
the square-stitched squares, save it and use it to connect
to another square.

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 Delicate Bracelet
Scale down the size of the square-stitched squares and use
the same number of seed beads to connect each square to
make an understated, yet unique, bracelet.

1. Refer to the Circlet Collar, p. 81. Square stitch six square

components as described in steps 1–4, but use five 80 hex
beads per row and alternate each row with color A and B
80 hex beads.
2. Connect the square-stitched components as described
in step 11, and connect each row of the component with 10
110 seed beads.
3. To connect the last square-stitched component to the
clasp, exit the third 80 in the last row, pick up an 110 and six
150s, and sew through the first loop of the clasp and back
through the 110 and 80.
4. Repeat step 3, exiting the fifth 80 in the last row.
5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 to connect the clasp to the other
end of the bracelet. End all threads. 

Supplies
bracelet, 61/2 in. (16.5cm)
• 3g 80 hex beads, color A
• 2.5g 80 hex beads, color B
• 3g 110 seed beads
• 0.25g 150 seed beads
• Two-strand bar clasp
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
• Needle, size 11

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 Hula Hoop Earrings
These swinging rounds are made using circular square
stitch. Two-hole Brick beads and seed beads are woven
together to create a dimensional hula hoop that will twirl
around your earlobes.

Supplies
• 4g two-hole Brick beads
• 2.5g 80 seed beads
• 0.25g 110 seed beads
• Pair of earring wires
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
• Needle, size 11
• 2 pairs of needle chainnose pliers

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 d
c b
d
b
a
a c

figure 2 (top view)

figure 1 (top view) b a c

d

d
c figure 2a (side view)
b
a
figure 1a (side view)

2-hole brick
two-hole bead
Brick bead
880oseed bead
seed bead
110o seed
11 bead
seed bead
c a
e d
b
figure 3

Make the earrings
1. On a comfortable length of thread, pick up a Brick
bead and an 80 seed bead a total of eight times, and tie
an overhand knot with the tail to make a circle.
2. Pick up a Brick, and sew through the following hole of the
previously added Brick. Sew back through the same hole of
the Brick added in this step (figures 1 and 1a, a–b).
3. Pick up an 80 and a Brick, and sew through the same hole
of the previously added Brick and back through the same
hole of the Brick added in this step. Repeat this step six
times (b–c).
4. Pick up an 80, and sew through the same hole of the first
Brick added in step 2 (c–d).
5. Sew through the available hole of the same Brick (figures
2 and 2a, a–b).
6. Pick up two 80s, sew through the available hole of the
next Brick, through the available hole of the Brick directly
beneath from the previous row. Continue back through the
same hole of the top Brick. Repeat this step six times (b–c).
7. Pick up two 80s, and sew through the available hole of
the next Brick (c–d).
8. Sew through the available hole of the Brick directly
beneath. Pick up two 80s, and sew through the next Brick.
86
Continue adding two 80s in between each Brick around the
ring (figure 3, a–b).
9. Exiting the top hole of a Brick, pick up six 110s, and sew
through the top hole of the Brick opposite the Brick the
thread is exiting (c–d).
10. Sew through the adjacent hole of the next Brick, and
retrace the thread path through the six 110s. Continue
through the Brick adjacent to the Brick the thread exited
at the start of this step (d–e). Retrace the thread path to
reinforce the connection. End all threads (Basic Techniques).
11. Open an end loop on an earring wire, and attach the
beaded loop of 110 seed beads.
12. Repeat to make a second earring.
tips
• If your tension is loose, sew through the outside seed
beads and Bricks of both the top and bottom rows to
tighten it up.
• When working with two-hole beads, it’s important to
distinguish the top and bottom hole in association with
your beadwork. For this project, the bottom hole of one
Brick will always line up with the bottom hole of the Brick
that will be ladder stitched on top of it. The same goes for
the top holes of the Brick.

BKS-67908-03.indd 86 6/29/18 10:39 AM

 Two-Ring Earrings
Bead a second hula hoop around the first hula hoop for
Supplies
• 4g two-hole Brick beads, color A
a sensational pair of dramatic earrings. In this project, I
• 4g two-hole Brick beads, color B
connected two hula hoop components of different colors.
• 2.5g 80 seed beads, color A
1. Refer to the Hula Hoop Earrings, p. 85. Square stitch a • 2.5g 80 seed beads, color B
hula hoop following steps 1–8 from the main project using • 0.25g 110 seed beads
color A beads. • Pair of earring wires
2. Follow step 1 with color B beads, but loop this new strand • Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
of beads around the first beaded hula hoop and then tie the
• Needle, size 11
overhand knot.
3. Square stitch a second hula hoop following steps 2–8
from the main project, using color B beads, around the first
hula hoop.
4. Finish the earring by following steps 9–12 from the main
project.
5. Repeat to make a second earring.

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 right-angle
weave Weave in circles using
this versatile stitch

88

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 Cobblestone Cuff
Learn how to bead basic right-angle weave stitch
using larger round beads and seed beads, all while
making a trendy stone bracelet juxtaposed with
sparkly crystals.

Supplies
bracelet, 7 in. (18cm)
• 41 6mm round beads
• 24 2x3mm rondelles
• 1g 110 seed beads
• 2 1.5mm crimp beads
• 3 3mm jump rings
• Lobster clasp
• 11/2-in. (3.8cm) headpin (optional)
• 1 in. (2.5cm) metal chain, fine
textured cable
• Braided beading thread, 14-lb. test
• Needle, size 11
• 2 pairs of needle chainnose pliers
• Roundnose pliers (optional)

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6mmround
6mm round bead
2x3mm
2mm rondelle
rondelle
1.5mm
11o
seedcrimp
bead bead
1.5mm crimp
110 seed beadbead
figure 2 figure 3
Make the cuff
1. On a comfortable length of thread, pick up an 110 seed
bead, a 6mm round bead, two 110s, a round, two 110s,
a round, an 110, and a round, and form the beads into a
ring by tying an overhand knot with the tail, leaving a 6-in.
(15cm) tail (Basic Techniques, p. 9). Sew through the 110,
6mm, two 110s, and 6mm (figure 1).
2. Pick up two 110s, a 6mm, two 110s, a 6mm, two 110s, a
6mm, and two 110s, and sew through the 6mm, two 110s,
6mm, two 110s, and 6mm. Sew through the 6mm, two 110s,
6mm, two 110 seed beads, and 6mm (figure 2).
3. Repeat step 2, noticing how this 6mm will be completed
in the opposite direction as in the previous row (figure 3).
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 until the bracelet has reached the
desired length, minus one unit. Add approximately ¾ in.
(1.9cm) for the clasp.
5. For the last unit, pick up two 110s, a 6mm, an 110, a 6mm,
an 110, a 6mm, and two 110s, and sew through the 6mm,
two 110s, 6mm, and 110 (figure 4, a–b).
6. Pick up four 110s, a crimp bead, and four 110s, skip the
next 6mm, and sew through the following 110, 6mm, and
110 (b–c).
7. Pick up a 2mm rondelle, and sew through the second
110, 6mm, and 110 along the edge of the bracelet (figure 5,
a–b).
8. Work as in step 7, adding rondelles along the entire
length of the bracelet, adding and ending thread as needed
(Basic Techniques) (b–c).
90
BKS-67908-03.indd 90
e
a a
b
figure 1
a
c
figure 4 figure 5
9. Exiting a 110 in the last row, pick up four 110s, a crimp,
and four 110s, and sew through the 110, 6mm, and 110
along the opposite edge (c–d).
10. Work as in step 7, adding rondelles along the entire
length of the bracelet. End the threads.
11. Open a 3mm jump ring, loop it through the crimp
bead at one end of the bracelet, and close the jump ring
(Basic Techniques).
12. Repeat step 11 on the opposite end of the bracelet.
13. Open a 3mm jump ring, and connect the lobster clasp
and a 3mm jump ring on one end of the bracelet. Open a
3mm jump ring and attach the 3mm jump ring attached to
the other end of the bracelet. Add additional jump rings to
this end of the bracelet to make it adjustable.
14. For a decorative touch, string a 6mm on a headpin and
make a simple loop (Basic Techniques). Attach this dangle
to the last jump ring on the bracelet.
tips
• When making a bracelet as a gift, bead a short bracelet
(approximately 6 in./15cm) and add jump rings or 1 in.
(2.5cm) of metal chain to one end to make it adjustable.
• I used heavy Fireline for this project to fill in the larger
hole of the 6mm jasper beads, which aids in tight tension
control, and helps keep the thread from breaking.
• I used jasper round beads because I love the natural and
earthy look against the sparkly crystals. Any 6mm round
bead would work; try using crystal pearls or polished
gemstone rounds.
6/29/18 10:39 AM
 Wide Bracelet
Now that you’ve beaded one row of right-angle weave into
a bracelet, learn how to stitch multiple columns to make a
wider bracelet with a beaded clasp.

1. Refer to the Cobblestone Cuff, p. 89. On a comfortable 8. Repeat steps 4–7

length of thread, pick up a 6mm round, a rondelle, a round,
a rondelle, a round, a rondelle, a round, and a rondelle, and
tie an overhand knot. Sew through the round, rondelle, and
round (figure 1).
2. Pick up a rondelle, a round, a rondelle, a round, a
rondelle, a round, and a rondelle, and sew through the
round, rondelle, round, rondelle, and round (figure 2).
3. Pick up a rondelle, a round, a rondelle, a round, a
rondelle, a round, and a rondelle, and sew through the
next seven beads (figure 3).
4. Pick up a rondelle, a round, a rondelle, a round, a
rondelle, a round and a rondelle, and sew through the
round and a rondelle (figure 4, a–b).
5. Pick up a rondelle, a round, a rondelle, a round
and a rondelle, and sew through the next seven beads
(figure 4, b–c).
6. Pick up a rondelle, sew through the existing rondelle,
pick up a rondelle, a round, a rondelle, a round, and
a rondelle, and sew through the next seven beads
(figure 4, c–d).
7. Repeat steps 4–6 in the opposite direction to stitch
another row (figure 5).
until you reach the
desired length.
9. Exit the last rondelle on
the end of the beadwork (figure
6, point a). Pick up up five 110 seed
beads, a round, and an 110, and sew back
through an 110. Pick up four 110s, and sew
through the next rondelle (figure 6, a–b).
10. Sew through the next six beads, and repeat step 9
(figure 6, b–c).
11. Sew through the next six beads, and repeat step 9
(figure 6, c–d). Reinforce the thread path and end the
thread (Basic Techniques).
12. Exiting the last rondelle on the other end of the
beadwork (figure 6, point e), pick up 18 110s, and sew
through the next seven beads (figure 6, e–f).
13. Repeat step 12 (figure 6, f–g).
14. Pick up 18 110s, and sew through a rondelle and a
round (figure 6, g–h).
15. Repeat step 11.

d
b

c
a

figure 1 figure 2 figure 3

figure 4
6mm round bead
6mm round
2x3mm rondelle
2mm rondelle
11 seedbead
11o0 seed bead
a
c b

Supplies
bracelet, 7 in. (18cm)
d

• 104 6mm round beads

• 168 2x3mm rondelles
h
• 1g 110 seed beads figure 5
• Braided beading thread, 14-lb. test e f g
• Needle, size 11
• 2 pairs of needle chainnose pliers
figure 6
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 Pearled Floret
Earrings
Take right-angle weave to the next level by using
the stitch to bead pearls of increasing sizes and
then embellishing them with crystals for a sparkly
pair of earrings.

Supplies
• 8 6mm crystal pearls
• 6 4mm crystal pearls
• 8 4mm bicone crystals
• 8 3mm bicone crystals
• 1g 110 seed beads
• 2 1.5mm crimp beads
• 2 3mm jump rings
• Pair of earring wires
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
• Needle, size 11
• 2 pairs of needle chainnose pliers

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 6mm crystal pearl d
6mm crystal pearl b
4mmcrystal
4mm crystalpearl
pearl e
c a
c
4mmcrystal
4mm bicone crystal
bicone e
3mmcrystal
3mm bicone crystal
bicone
b
1.5mm
1.5mmcrimp
crimpbead
bead a d
o
11
110 seed
seedbead
bead
figure 1 figure 2 figure 3

Make the earrings 7. Pick up an 110, a 4mm bicone crystal, an 110, a

1. On a comfortable length of thread, pick up a 6mm
pearl and an 110 seed bead four times, and continue
through the first 6mm pearl and 110 to form a ring. Tie an
overhand knot between the 110 and 6mm pearl (figure 1,
a–b), leaving a 6-in. (15cm) tail (Basic Techniques, p. 9).
2. Sew through the 6mm pearl, 110, 6mm pearl, 110, and
6mm pearl (b–c).
3. Pick up an 110 and a 4mm pearl three times, then
pick up an 110, and sew through the 6mm pearl, 110,
4mm pearl, and 110 (c–d).
4. Pick up two 110s, a crimp bead, and two 110s, skip the
next 4mm pearl, and sew through the following 110,
4mm pearl, 110, and 6mm pearl (d–e).
5. Pick up an 110, a 3mm bicone crystal, an 110, a 3mm
crystal, and an 110, and sew through the top 4mm pearl
(figure 2, a–b).
6. Pick up an 110 and a 3mm crystal, and sew through
the center 110 added in the previous step. Pick up a
3mm crystal and an 110, and sew through the top 6mm
pearl (b–c).
4mm crystal, and an 110, and sew through the bottom
4mm pearl (c–d).
8. Pick up an 110 and a 4mm crystal, and sew through
the center 110 added in the previous step. Pick up a
4mm crystal and an 110, and sew through the top 6mm
pearl (d–e).
9. Reinforce the thread path where the beadwork will
connect to the earring wire by sewing through the 110,
4mm pearl, three 110s, crimp bead, three 110s, 6mm
pearl, 110, and 6mm pearl (figure 3). End the threads
(Basic Techniques).
10. Open a 3mm jump ring, attach the crimp bead, and
the loop of an earring wire, and close the ring.
11. Repeat to make a second earring.
tip
• Always reinforce the thread path where a clasp or earring
will be attached. This area will have a lot of wear and tear,
so reinforcing the thread path protects and strengthens
your work.

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 Dramatic Earrings
Make longer earrings by adding another
right-angle weave row with 8mm pearls and
6mm bicone crystals.

1. Refer to the Pearled Floret Earrings, p. 92.

Work as in steps 1–9.
2. Following the existing thread path, sew
through 110 seed beads and 6mm pearls until
the thread is exiting the bottom 6mm pearl.
Pick up an 110, an 8mm pearl, an 110, an 8mm
pearl, an 110, and an 8mm pearl, and sew
through the bottom 6mm pearl (figure 1).
3. Pick up an 110, a 6mm bicone crystal, an
110, a 6mm crystal, and an 110, and sew
through the bottom 8mm pearl (figure 2, a–b).
4. Pick up an 110 and a 6mm crystal, and sew
through the center 110 added in the previous
step. Pick up a 6mm crystal and an 110, and
sew through the bottom 4mm pearl (b–c).
5. Work as in steps 10 and 11 to finish
the earrings.

tip
• Make a bracelet by working in right-angle
weave with the same size bicone crystals and
crystal pearls, like the design variation shown
on p. 4.

Supplies
• 6 8mm crystal pearls
c • 8 6mm bicone crystals
a
• 8 4mm crystal pearls
• 8 4mm bicone crystals
b • 6 3mm crystal pearls
• 8 3mm bicone crystals
figure 1 figure 2
• 1g 110 seed beads
• 2 1.5mm crimp beads
• 2 3mm jump rings
• Pair of earring wires
8mm
8mmcrystal pearl
crystal pearl • Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
• Needle, size 11
6mm
6mm bicone
crystal crystal
bicone • 2 pairs of needle chainnose pliers

94

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 RAW Ruffled Collar
This project is perfect to hone your right-angle weave
(or RAW) skills because it requires beading one very long
row of RAW followed by additional very long rows of RAW.
Remember: Practice makes perfect, and in the end you’ll
have a ruffled collar to show for your efforts.

Supplies
collar, 18 in. (46cm)
• 128 3mm bicone crystals
• 12g 80 seed beads
• 39g 60 seed beads
• 2 3mm jump rings, unsoldered
• 12mm lobster clasp
• 2 1.5mm crimp beads
• 2 crimp covers
• 22 in. (56cm) .018-in. beading wire,
49-strand count
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
• Needle, size 10
• Wire cutters
• Crimping pliers
• 2 pairs of needle chainnose pliers

95

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 o
6 0 seed
8 seedbead
bead
o
8 seed
11 bead
0 seed bead

3mm crystal
3mm bicone bicone
crystal

e c
f

d b
b
a c a

figure 1 figure 2

b d
e c

c
a b

figure 3 figure 4

Make the collar
1. Determine the desired length of the finished necklace
and cut a piece of beading wire 4 in. (10cm) longer.
2. String a jump ring and a crimp bead on the beading wire.
With crimping pliers, crimp the crimp bead, leaving a
short tail of beading wire, no longer than 1 in. (2.5cm)
(Basic Techniques, p. 9). Cover the crimp with a crimp cover.
3. String 80 seed beads on the beading wire in increments
of three, covering the beading wire, to the desired
necklace length.
4. String the lobster clasp and a crimp bead on the beading
wire. With crimping pliers, crimp the crimp bead, leaving
¼ in. (6mm) of space between the last strung 80 and the
crimp bead. (This space will disappear as the RAW rows are
beaded.) Cover the crimp with a crimp cover, and hide the
beading wire tails in the 80s.
5. Attach a stop bead on a comfortable length of thread,
leaving a 6-in. (15cm) tail (Basic Techniques). Secure the
thread in the 80s on the beading wire, and exit the second
strung 80 on the beading wire. Pick up three 80s and sew
through three 80s in the row of 80s on the wire (figure 1, a–b).
6. Work as in step 5 until you reach the end of the strung
beads (b–c).
7. Following a RAW thread path, sew through two 80s in the
last unit (figure 2, a–b), pick up three 60 seed beads, and
sew through the last 80 in the previous row and the first 60
picked up in this step.
8. Pick up two 60s, and sew through the corresponding 80,
three 60s, and an 80 (b–c).
9. Pick up two 60s, and sew through a 60, an 80, and a
60 (c–d).
10. Repeat steps 8 and 9 for the entire length of the
necklace (d–e).
11. Sew through a 60, pick up three 60s, and sew through
two 60s (figure 3, a–b).
12. Pick up two 60s, and sew through five 60s (b–c).
13. Pick up two 60s, and sew through three 60s (c–d).
14. Repeat steps 12 and 13 for the entire length of the
necklace (d–e), ending and adding thread as needed
(Basic Techniques).
15. Exiting an 80 from the first row of RAW, pick up a
3mm bicone crystal and sew through a 60 (figure 4, a–b).
16. Continue picking up a crystal and sewing through
the next 60 for the entire length of the necklace (b–c).
End the threads.

96

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 Ruffled Bracelet
This bracelet uses the same techniques as the necklace
Supplies
bracelet, 7 in. (18cm)
above. However, after the RAW rows are added to one side • 84 3mm bicone crystals
of the strung beads, you will turn around and bead them on • 5.5g 80 seed beads
the other side for even more ruffles. • 12g 60 seed beads
• 2 3mm jump rings, unsoldered
1. Refer to the RAW Ruffled Collar, p. 95. Work as in steps
1–6, shortening the length for a finished bracelet.
• 12mm lobster clasp
2. Work as in steps 5–16 along one side of the strung • 2 1.5mm crimp beads
80 seed beads. • 2 crimp covers
3. Repeat step 2, beading increasing RAW rows on the • 11 in. (28cm) .018-in. beading wire,
opposite side. End the threads. 49-strand count
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
• Needle, size 10
• Wire cutters
• Crimping pliers
• 2 pairs of needle chainnose pliers

97

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 bead
embroidery Sew beads to fabric for a
different spin on stitching

98

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 Doodle Cuff
Turn the popular style of doodling into a
bead embroidered bracelet. You’ll learn two
basic bead embroidery techniques while
following an illustrated pattern and make
a cold connection with a metal bezel and
leather cuff bracelet.

Supplies
• 0.5g O-beads
• 1g 150 seed beads, color A
• 2g 150 seed beads, color B
• 1x1 in. (2.5x2.5cm) beading foundation
• ¾-in. (1.9cm)-wide leather cuff bracelet
• 30mm screw-back bezel
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
• Needle, size 11
• Scissors
• E6000 adhesive
• 1.8mm leather hole punch
• Flush cutters
• Ruler

99

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 O bead
O-bead
15
150o seed bead,color
seed bead, colorAA
o
150 seed
seed bead,
15 bead,color
colorBB
Bead embroider on beading
foundation
1. Copy and cut out the circle template, and trace it on
the beading foundation (figure 1). (Note: The side of the
beading foundation with the circle tracing is the front and
the blank side is the back.)
2. Thread a needle with a comfortable length of thread, and
tie a double knot at the end, leaving a 1-in. (2.5cm) tail.
3. Sew the needle through the beading foundation, back to
front, until the knot is tight against the back of the beading
foundation.
4. Pick up an O-bead and a color A 150 seed bead. Skip the
A, and sew through the O-bead and the foundation, front to
back (figure 2). (This is called a stop stitch; the A stops the
O-bead from coming loose.)
5. Retrace the thread path twice to ensure the O-bead
lays flat against the foundation. Your needle should be
on the back.
6. Position the needle on the circle to one side of the
O-bead, sew through the foundation, back to front, and
pick up two color B 150 seed beads. Push the beads all the
way down to the foundation, and arrange them around the
O-bead. Sew down through the foundation and then up
through the foundation and the two Bs just added (figure 3,
a–b). (This is called a backstitch.)
7. Work another backstitch using two Bs. Sew up through
the beading foundation and through the last three Bs just
added (b–c).
100
BKS-67908-03.indd 100
figure 1
figure 2
8. Following along the curve of the O-bead, continue
adding Bs as described in step 7, making sure to stay within
the traced circle.
note
When adding the last few beads to the row around
the O-bead, two beads will not always fit. Pick up and
backstitch only the amount of beads that will fit on the
foundation (figure 4).
9. Sew through the foundation, front to back, and position
the needle above the last bead added. Sew through the
foundation, back to front. Backstitch As, following the curve
of the previous seed beads as in step 7.
10. Sew through the foundation, front to back, and
position the needle above the last bead added and then
sew through the foundation, back to front. Backstitch Bs,
following the curve of the previous seed beads. This creates
an O-bead arch.
11. Continue adding O-beads as in step 4 and
backstitching A and B 150s around the O-bead as in
steps 5–8 until the entire circle on the foundation is filled
with bead embroidery, ending and adding thread as
needed. Stop-stitch an O-bead wherever two O-bead
arches intersect.
note
After all O-bead arches have been added, there might be
small spaces left without beads within the circle. Stop-stitch
an additional O-bead and/or backstitch with 150(s) to fill in
the space.
6/29/18 10:40 AM
 Adding and
b c Ending Thread
Ending Thread: With the thread exiting
a
the back of the beading foundation, tie
figure 3 a double knot as close to the beading
foundation as possible. Once the knot
is secure, trim the tail ½ in. (1.3cm) from
the knot.
Adding Thread: On a comfortable
length of thread, tie a double knot,
leaving a ½-in. (1.3cm) tail. Sew through
the beading foundation, back to front, so
the new thread is in position to continue
embroidering.

figure 4

Assemble the bracelet

12. Trim around the bead embroidered circle on the tips
foundation, with the back visible, to avoid cutting any • When cutting the beading foundation around
thread paths while trimming. Apply E6000 to the back of the beadwork, I like to cut facing the back
the foundation. Be sure to cover all thread paths and knots. of my beadwork so I can make sure I’m not
Use a toothpick or scrap of beading foundation to spread cutting through any thread paths.
it out evenly. • If the O-beads seem to be a little wonky,
13. Place the bead embroidery into the metal bezel, glue retrace the thread path through the 150 stop
side down, and press firmly to ensure the foundation is beads with a little more tension to get them to
adhered to the metal bezel. Allow to dry for 24 hours. lay flat on the beading foundation.
14. Wrap the leather bracelet around your wrist to
determine which snap closure is the best fit. Lay the
bracelet flat and with a ruler, determine the mid-point
between the snaps and make a mark.
15. Using a 1.8mm hole punch pliers, punch through the
leather bracelet at the mark made in step 14.
16. Unscrew the micro nut from the back of the metal
bezel. Then push the screw part of the bezel through the
hole in the leather band. Be sure to push the bezel through
the correct side of the leather bracelet so the snaps
work properly.
17. Screw the micro nut back onto the screw-back bezel.
To ensure the nut is screwed on tightly, use a pair of pliers
to tighten it.
18. With a pair of flush cutters, trim the excess screw from
the bezel. If the edge of the screw is sharp after trimming
it, file it down with a nail file or piece of sand paper. Add a
small dab of E6000 glue to the back of the nut and screw.

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 Doodle Pendant
Wear this bead embroidered doodle design
as a necklace. Refer to the Doodle Cuff, p. 99;
this piece is made using the same template
and technique. Simply glue the finished bead
embroidered component into a metal bezel
pendant setting instead of a screw-back bezel
setting. Add a jump ring, chain, and clasp, and
scribble it around your neck.

Additional Supplies
• 30mm single loop circle bezel
• 18 in. (46cm) metal chain, fine cable
• 9mm jump ring, unsoldered
• Lobster clasp

102

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 Radiant Rivoli
Earrings
This bead embroidered project introduces
the concept of beading around a rivoli.
It is similar to the circular peyote stitch
bezel found in the Polka Dot Paradise
Necklace, p. 18, but this project is bezeled
using back stitch on a piece of beading
foundation and glued into metal earring
wires for a radiant pair of earrings.

Supplies
• 2 12mm rivolis
• 1g 110 cylinder beads
• 0.5g 110 seed beads
• 0.5g 150 seed beads
• 2 28.5mm large circle earrings
• 1x1 in. (2.5x2.5cm) piece of beading
foundation
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
• Needle, size 11
• Scissors
• E6000 adhesive

103

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 12mm rivoli rivoli
12mm crystal
110 cylinder bead
11o cylinder bead
110 seed bead
11o seed bead
15
150o seed bead
seed bead
Make the earrings
1. Cut out the circle template and trace it on the beading
foundation (figure 1). (The side of the foundation with the
circle tracing is the front and the blank side is the back.)
2. Cut a very small “+” into the center of the foundation.
This cut allows the back point of the rivoli to poke through
the foundation so the sides of the rivoli are flush with the
foundation. Glue the rivoli to the foundation and let it dry.
3. Tie a triple knot at the end of a comfortable length of
thread, leaving a 1-in. (2.5cm) tail.
note
The knot prevents the tail thread from passing through the
bottom side of the beading foundation. (I find a triple knot
usually does the trick.)
4. Sew through the foundation from back to front at the
edge of the rivoli. (It does not matter where, as long as the
thread exits right next to the edge.)
5. Pick up two 110 cylinder beads, and pull them snug
against the foundation, positioning them next to the rivoli.
Sew the thread through the foundation right next to where
the second cylinder rests. Sew up through the foundation
where the first cylinder rests, and sew through the first and
second cylinder (figure 2, a–b).
6. Pick up two cylinders, and pull them snug against
the foundation, positioning them next to the rivoli and
previously added cylinders. Sew the thread through the
foundation right next to where the second cylinder rests,
continue up through the foundation in between the first
104
BKS-67908-03.indd 104
figure 1
c d
b
a
figure 2
figure 3
and second cylinder, and sew through the second, third, and
fourth cylinders (b–c).
7. Repeat step 5, sewing up through the foundation
between the third and fourth cylinder (c–d).
8. Continue backstitching two cylinders around the rivoli
as described in step 5. Note that every backstitch has two
cylinders being added to the foundation and the last three
cylinders on the foundation are just sewn through without
adding any new beads. Continue this step until the rivoli is
surrounded by cylinders—a total of 30 beads.
9. Exiting the last cylinder added, pick up a cylinder, skip
the next cylinder from the previous row, and sew through
the next cylinder. Repeat this step all the way around the
rivoli (figure 3). (Note that the stitch being used here is
peyote stitch.)
10. After the last cylinder is added (figure 4, a–b), step up
by sewing through the first cylinder added in step 8 (b–c).
11. Pick up a 150 seed bead, and sew through the next
“up” cylinder from the previous row. Continue adding 150s
this way, all around the rivoli. The beadwork should “cup”
inward around the rivoli after this row is beaded.
12. Sew through the beadwork to exit the back of the
foundation. Tie a few knots to secure the thread.
13. Sew up through the foundation from back to front to
exit next to the edge of the cylinder bead row.
14. Repeat steps 5–7 with 110s, stitching around the first
row of cylinders. Because this row is not a base row for the
peyote stitch, it can have an odd number of beads. Use as
many beads as snugly fit around the base row of cylinders in
this step (figure 5).
6/29/18 10:40 AM
 d
c
a b
figure 4

figure 5
Radiant Ring
Turn these rivoli earrings into a sparkly statement
ring, which is made using the same template and
techniques.
15. Sew through the back side of the foundation, and tie a
few knots to secure the thread. Cut the tail thread less than

Additional Supplies
1 in. (2.5cm) from the knot. Trim the foundation so it is flush
with the beadwork.
16. Apply a small amount of glue to the back of the • 21.5mm large circle adjustable
foundation, making sure the knots are covered with glue,
ring blank
too. Place the bead embroidered component into the
earring bezel and let dry.
17. Repeat to make a second earring.
Refer to the Radiant Rivoli Earrings, p. 103.
tips Simply follow the steps to make a bead
• Whenever you are backstitching the first row of a embroidered component, and then glue into
peyote bezel around something on foundation, be sure a metal ring blank, just as the main project’s
to have an even number of beads encircle the object components were glued into an earring bezel.
to be bezeled. This ensures even rows of peyote stitch
for a consistent bezel.
• If you find your tension is too loose and the beadwork
is not “cupping around” the rivoli after you’ve added
the row of 150s, retrace your thread path through the
rows of 150s and cylinders, pulling tightly. That should
help tighten the beads around the rivoli.
• Bead embroidery projects often include multiple
beadweaving stitches and are broken up into sections.
I like to knot my thread at the bottom of the foundation
after I complete each section. Doing this ensures each
section is individually secured to the foundation and also
lets me remove sections if I change my mind without
worrying that the rest of the project will come undone.

105

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 Bead
Embroidered
Button
Pendant
Turn a lovely button into a beautiful
focal pendant. Using the basics of
bead embroidery from the previous
two projects, take the technique to the
next level by backing the embroidered
component and adding a tidy brick
stitch edge.

106

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 26mm x 4mm button
27mm decorative button

3mm crystal pearl

3mm crystal pearl
110 cylinder bead
o
11 cylinder bead
110 seed bead
11o seed bead

15o seed bead

150 seed bead

d
c b
a

figure 1

Supplies Bead embroider around a

• 27mm decorative button
• 32 3mm crystal pearls
• 2g 110 cylinder beads
• 1.5g 110 seed beads
• .25g 150 seed beads
• 3x3 in. (7.6x7.6cm) piece of beading 3. Sew up through the foundation from back to front at the
foundation
• 3x3 in. piece of ultrasuede
• 2 9-in. (23cm) pieces of chain,
textured cable
• Lobster clasp
• Braided beading thread, 6-lb. test
• Scissors
• E6000 adhesive
• 2 pairs of needle chainnose pliers
decorative button
1. Remove the shank from the back of the button, if it’s not
already removed, and glue it onto the beading foundation.
Let the glue dry.
2. Tie a triple knot at one end of a comfortable length of
thread, leaving a 1-in. (2.5cm) tail (Basic Techniques, p. 9).
edge of the button. (It does not matter where, as long as
the thread exits right next to the edge.)
4. Pick up two 110 cylinder beads, and pull them snug
against the foundation, positioning them next to the button.
Sew through the foundation right next to where the second
cylinder rests. Sew up through the foundation where the
first cylinder rests, and continue through the first and
second cylinder (figure 1, a–b).
5. Pick up two cylinders, and pull them snug against
the foundation, positioning them next to the button
and previously added cylinders. Sew down through the

107

BKS-67908-03.indd 107 6/29/18 10:40 AM


c b a
a
b
figure 2
a
e fd
c
figure 4
foundation right next to where the last cylinder rests. Sew
up through the foundation between the first and second
cylinder, and continue through the second, third, and
fourth cylinder (b–c). Repeat this step, backstitching two
cylinders around the button and sewing through the last
three cylinders added, until the entire button is surrounded
with cylinders. (My 27mm button has 60 cylinders.)
6. Step up by sewing through the first cylinder added in
this row (c–d).
7. Pick up a cylinder, skip the next cylinder from the
previous row, and sew through the following cylinder.
Repeat this step, adding one cylinder at a time, all the way
around the button (figure 2, a–b). (Note the stitch being
used here is peyote stitch.)
8. Step up by sewing through the first cylinder added in this
row (b–c).
9. Repeat steps 7 and 8 for a third and fourth row (figures
3 and 4), being sure to step up through the first cylinder
added in each row (see “Tips”).
10. Exiting the first cylinder added in the last row, pick up
a 150 seed bead, and sew through the next “up” cylinder
from the previous row. Continue adding 150s this way, all
around the button. The beadwork should “cup” inward
around the button after this row is beaded (figure 5, a–b).
11. Sew through the beadwork to exit the back of the
foundation. Tie a few knots to secure the thread.
12. Sew through the foundation from back to front, exiting
next to the edge of the cylinder row (b–c).
13. Pick up a 3mm pearl, and pull it snug against the
foundation. Sew down through the foundation and back
up where the pearl rests. Sew through the pearl (c–d).
14. Repeat step 13, adding pearls around the row of
cylinders. Use as many beads as snugly fit around the
base row of cylinders in this step (d–e).
15. Sew through the very first pearl added in this row to
snug the pearls together (e–f).
16. Sew through to the back of the foundation, and tie a
few knots to secure the thread. Cut the tail thread less
than 1 in. (2.5cm) from the knot.
108
BKS-67908-03.indd 108
c
figure 3
b c
a
figure 5
Finish the bead embroidery
17. Trim the foundation so it is flush with the beadwork.
Apply a small amount of glue to the back of the foundation,
making sure the knots are covered with glue and place on a
piece of Ultrasuede, leaving a ¼-in. (6mm) border from the
edge free from glue. Trim the Ultrasuede so it is flush with
the beadwork.
18. Tie a triple knot at one end of a comfortable length
of thread, leaving a ¼-in. (6mm) tail. Sew between the
Ultrasuede and foundation from back to front. The knot
should nestle between the foundation layer and the
Ultrasuede layer (figure 6, point a).
19. Pick up two 110s, and push them down to the end of
the thread along the edge of the beadwork, holes facing
upward. Sew through the Ultrasuede and foundation from
back to front, right underneath the hole of the second 110
and less than a seed bead’s width apart from the edge. Sew
up through the second 110 just added (a–b). Note that the
stitch being used here is brick stitch.
20. Pick up an 110, and push it down to the end of thread
so it is laying along the edge of the beadkwork, holes facing
upward. Sew through the Ultrasuede and foundation from
back to front, right underneath the hole of the 110 and
less than a seed bead’s width apart from the edge. Sew up
through the 110 just added (b–c).
21. Repeat step 20, adding 110s all the way around the
entire edge of the beadwork (c–d).
22. After the last 110 is brick stitched along the edge of
the beadwork, secure the very first 110 added in step 19
by sewing down through the first 110 and through the
foundation and ultrasude from front to back, and sew up
through the first 110 (d–e).
Bead a pendant bail and assemble
the necklace
23. Pick up seven 110s, and sew down through the fourth
110 in the brick stitched edge (e–f). Retrace the thread path
to reinforce the connection.
6/29/18 10:40 AM
 e b
d c
a
f

figure 6

24. Sew through the beadwork, and end the thread

(Basic Techniques).
25. Open a link on both ends of the cable chains and close
them around the beaded loop of the pendant. Attach a
lobster clasp to one end of the chain.
Edgy Pendant
Add some extra sparkle and flare to your bead embroidery
tips by embellishing the brick stitch edge with bicone crystals
• Sometimes you can find buttons with the shank already and seed beads.
removed, but if not—just cut it off with wire cutters or
build the back up with extra layers of foundation until the

Additional Supplies
back is level with the bottom of the shank.
• The initial peyote backstitched row MUST have an even
number of beads. If you only have enough room to add
• 38 4mm bicone crystals
one bead instead of two when you get to the end of the
• 1g 80 seed beads
initial row, don’t add any. Instead, sew through the very
first bead added in the initial row to snug the beads close • .5g 150 seed beads
around the button. The pearl row will hide any spaces.
• The idea is to secure the button to the foundation and
give it a beaded bezel. You want the last row of 150s
to close around the button, so the very last row of 110s 1. Refer to the Bead Embroidered Button Pendant, p. 107.
added should stick up slightly past the top of the button. Work as in steps 1–20. Work as in step 21 using 80 seed
When the row of 150s is added, the last two rows curl in beads instead of 110s.
and hold the button in place. 2. Exiting an 80 added along the brick stitch edge, pick up
a 4mm bicone crystal and three 150 seed beads. Sew back
through the crystal and 80, and sew up through the next 80
(figure, a–b).
3. Repeat step 2 all around the brick stitch edge (b–c),
leaving three 80s unembellished to bead a loop to attach
4mm bicone a neckstrap.
4mm crystal bicone
crystal 4. Pick up nine 150s, and sew down through the last 80
b on the edge, next to the first embellished 80 from step 2.
880o seed bead
seed bead Retrace the thread path to reinforce the connection. End
a
the thread.
15
150o seed bead
seed bead

c tip
figure • You will start to notice a slight back-and-forth placement
as the crystals nestle along the edge of the bead
embroidery. Because of their size, they will not lay right
next to each other. Use your fingers to move them into
place so one crystal is forward and the next is backward.
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 Acknowledgments
Many twists and turns along my life’s journey led me to writing this book. Always there
beside me and with me every step of the way has been my family, and I would not have
written this book if it weren’t for them—so my greatest thanks goes to my Mom, Dad,
and brother, Nick. They continue to remind me—and show me—how hope can see the
invisible, feel the intangible, and achieve the impossible. Thank you for holding space for
me so I could get where I am today. Thank you for always believing in me and my dreams
and for never giving up on me, no matter how persuasive I can be.

To my best bead buddy, Betsy Moerder, I thank you so much for being my constant
cheerleader, steadfast supporter, and cherished friend. Thank you for encouraging me to
pursue the opportunity to write this book at a time I thought I couldn’t and for waving me
on until the very last page was written.

To Becky Nunn, for inspiring and nurturing my creativity; I’m so thankful for your mentorship
and heartfelt guidance. You are one of my biggest advocates in letting my creativity shine
and have helped me significantly in finding ways to share it with others. You were the
catalyst for setting me forth on my public bead journey, and your belief in me and my
beadwork planted the seed for this book.

To Dr. Greg Logan and the entire team at Platinum Healthcare in Sarasota, FL, for helping
to heal my back and in turn, my life. I’m able to bead long hours into the night with better
posture and significantly less pain, and for that, I’m eternally grateful.

To my Eagle Rock Five Girls, my Thursday Night Beading Group, and my other bead
buddies, thank you for sharing laughter and light during late-night beading sessions over
wine and chocolate chip cookies.

To Phyllis Fogel, my very first beadweaving instructor, who introduced me to the wonderful
world of stitching with beads to make beautiful jewelry. My Angular Aztec bracelet was
inspired by the very first peyote bracelet you taught me to bead. After my first class with
you at the Baum School in Allentown, PA at just 16 years old, I was hooked!

To Diane Bacha for so graciously taking the time to listen to me talk about my love of
beadwork and desire to write this beadweaving book with Kalmbach upon our very first
introduction. Thank you for this opportunity to share my passion with others.

To my Kalmbach editor, Erica Barse, for so eloquently directing me and the rest of the
Kalmbach team on the path of this book journey— thank you for your guidance in giving
this book life and bringing it forth into the world.

To Lisa Schroeder, Bill Zuback, Kellie Jaeger, Janice Zimdars, Nanette Fox, Terri Meunier,
and all the other teammates at Kalmbach Publishing—thank you for your contributions in
making this book what it is.

To all my bead students throughout the years who have beaded with me on this journey,
thank you for being brave enough to take a class with me and for helping to shape my
beading life. I’m so grateful for the beautiful friendships beading has brought into my life.

To all the bead shop owners who invited me to teach at their shops and bead with their
customers, thank you. You are the gathering place and provider for this sacred ritual of
beading, and we would be lost without you.

110

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 Quirky Quilted Drop Earrings
design variation, p. 74

About the Author

Marla Salezze is a jewelry designer and teacher of beadweaving. Her original beadwork
designs have been published numerous times in Bead&Button, Beadwork, Beading Daily,
Step by Step Wire, and Cloth, Paper, Scissors magazines. She teaches beadweaving classes,
workshops, and retreats across the country and has previously taught at the To Bead True
Blue Show in Tucson, AZ, the Bead&Button Show in Milwaukee, WI, and Bead Fest in
Philadelphia, PA. Marla is on the Nunn Design Innovations Team and a member of the Bead
Society of Eastern Pennsylvania, the Florida West Coast Bead Society, and the Gulf Coast
Bead Society. She currently lives in the cozy beach town of Venice, FL with her miniature
goldendoodle, Gracie. Contact her, purchase kits for her projects, and follow her beading
Maria Lyle Photography journey at www.beadedbymarla.com.

I encourage you to take a beadweaving class. It’s a terrific way to receive hands-on
instruction, learn from an experienced beader who knows her craft, and meet other
people who share your interest in beading. Go online to find local bead stores, craft
stores, bead shows—all of which most likely offer bead classes. Make a beading
trip out of it—grab some girlfriends and travel to a national convention or show
that offers classes you might like. Do a search for local bead societies in your area.
Many societies gather monthly and are a great way to meet fellow bead enthusiasts,
learn new skills, and make new friends.

111

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 Create BEAUTIFUL STITCHED JEWELRY!

Project books from Kalmbach Media are filled with step-by-step projects
to help you build your skills.

Ready, Set,
Limited beads,
Stitching
20+ PROJECTS
READY, SET, BEAD!

STITCHING WITH A HANDFUL OF BEADS

QUICK & EASY STITCHED JEWELRY

unlimited possibilities Stitching Made Simple TO MAKE Learn to Use

Bead! You can stitch something truly beautiful, even when you
only have a few materials on hand. With that goal in mind,
author and teacher Carolyn Cave offers 25+ brand-new
projects that can be made using only three, four, or five
different types of beads. Perfect for beginners
Handful
with a Explore exciting stitching

of
techniques without a huge time
investment. With Cathy Jakicic’s
Quick & Easy Stitched Jewelry, you
Two-Hole Beads
WITH 20 FABULOUS PROJECTS
A Beginner’s Guide to Designing with

QUICK&EASY
and experienced beaders alike, these projects are
can create a wide variety of jewelry
designed to help you showcase tubes or strands Twin Beads, SuperDuos, and More
pieces—in just a few hours. Each

25
of your favorite beads.
quick & easy stylish project includes design
stitching projects
Whether you prefer to stitch with seed beads, variations and new color choices.
pearls, crystals, two-hole beads, or faceted So, pick up a needle and start

STITCHED JEWELRY
nt to make fire-polished beads, you’ll find plenty to admire
creating today!
few within these pages. And you’ll only need a handful

Beads
ection of beads to create something truly lovely.
te Editor This book includes:
offers the • 20+ necklaces, bracelets, earrings,
can start Inside, you’ll find: and more
n an hour • 25+ beautiful projects, including earrings, necklaces, • Fun design variations for each project
4, which pendants, rings, ropes, and bracelets
book takes • Easy-to-follow instructions and
al for an • Complete step-by-step instructions and illustrations illustrations

• Tips and tricks for easy project

• Design options and other ideas for customizing
construction
each project
o guide you
“I created these projects for both the new
uction “I create what I love and I love what I
d necklaces create. I am thankful for having been necklaces • bracelets • earrings pendants
stitcher•who wants to dip a toe•inrings
without

given this opportunity to create projects committing to a 40-hour necklace and the
for these pages. I hope that you will more experienced beader who’s looking for
enjoy stitching them as much as I have
I’m always trying to find an hour or project ideas for an afternoon, evening, or
CAVE

enjoyed making them for you.”

CRUZ

the rare lazy weekend.“ Cathy Jakicic

down, relax, and stitch!” — Carolyn Cave, award-winning artist and
author of Beautiful Designs with SuperDuos
- Jane and Twin Beads

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