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Produced & Distributed by Original Idea & Concept Art Direction Cover Artist Collaborators
Fernando Vallejo AK Interactive G. Kowalski Aitor Azkue
AK Interactive Andrés Montiel
Manuel Gil
Chief Editor Graphic & Layout Pin Up Artist
Tomás de la Fuente
Daniel Zamarbide BMS Designs A. Messina
José Luís Echaide
AK Interactive
Roberto Ramirez
www.ak-interactive.com
Editor Management Article Assisstant Sales Manager Francisco J. Martínez Rodríguez
Follow us in: K. Novák H. Flemming Jalal Benali
Rubén González
Printed by Depósito Legal
English Texts Editorial Assistant LR-218-2014
James Hatch P. Klausen
Maciej Goralczyk contact@aceshighmagazine.com
pag. 6
Heinkel He 219 A-0 ‘UHU’
from the Japanese manufac turer
The most advanced night fighter of WW2. The He 219 Uhu, in 1/32,
Zoukei-Mura, built by Aitor Azkue, in a stunning diorama.
pag. 22
Focke-Wulf Fw 190 A-6/R11
with its characteristic antennae in a
One of the legendar y fighters of the Luftwaffe, the eternal Fw 190
kit with Owl’s conversion set, by Dani Zamarbide.
‘hedgehog’ arrangement. Built from the Hasegawa’s 1/32
Messerschmitt Bf 110 G-4sky, the Bf 110 G-4 was it. Manuel Gil builds pag.
54
a
If there was one true defender of the German night
superb example of the Eduard 1/72 model.
pag. 66
Messerschmitt Bf 109 E-4 E-4 variant, which Tomás de la Fuente
The best known of all German fighters of WWII was the Bf 109 in its
an exhaustiv e process of painting in an always hard-to-work black scheme.
builds for us, including
pag. 82
In The Next Issue:
World War 1 Centenary Special
Aitor Azkue
A huge number of gray plastic parts are included, having the interior of the cabin, with its instruments, seats, radios, etc. all
perfectly recreated, along with the rest of the fuselage. Engines are amazingly detailed. In the front of the plane, the FuG 220
aerials are finely represented, although I replaced the originals with metal ones from Master Model, who dedicate much time
to the actual study of the subject, which is reflected in their quality. Highly recommended.
UHU ASSEMBLY
1 2 3
4 5 6
7 8 9
10 11 12
13 14
21
A comparison
of the antennas.
The black parts
are from the kit,
whilst the metallic
ones are from Master Model.
UHU PREPAINT
29
28 This view shows the finished
The folding hinge of the rear access door is ammunition and weapons bays,
made with evergreen. including fuel tank access.
30
Here we see
all access to
the engine and
the new access
panels.
34
At the rear of the fuselage we 35 The exhausts were detailed with a
add the backwards pointing little Evergreen plasticard to create the
antenna. straps that were missing in the kit.
UHU PAINT
39
40 41 42
43 44 45
46 47 48
49 50 51
52 53 54
55 56 57
58 Remove it.
65
63 …and of the
engine.
No final quality canopies
were given by the
manufacturer, as this is a
test shot model kit, but it
gives an idea of the
“separate-frame” approach
that is an option in this release.
64 Top view of the cockpit...
From the rear, the View from behind the left wing.
camouflage creates a
special look, fulfilling its
role and distorting the
surface of the plane.
66 67
69 70
In this view, we can appreciate the various open ports which have
been modelled. For extra realism, try not to duplicate the appearance
on both sides with regards to what is displayed.
79
80 I always try to subtly chip plate 81 Aerial view of the plane,
edges with a brush, so as to give which gives us a perfect view
the appearance of general wear of its silhouette.
and tear.
83
For this photo I
placed a pilot in
order to give an idea
82 of the scale of the
Side view of plane. Later they
the plane. will be together in a
diorama.
84 Photo shot with a wide angle where the engine is
dismantled and placed under its gondola.
A number of cables 87 88
provided by the
manufacturer had to
be supplemented
with a few other tin
wires of different
thicknesses.
View of “Owl’s Nest” with
several pilot figures.
The peculiarities of this Fw 190 night fighter model are the large number
of an-tennas leading into the wings (top and bottom), and the bonnet and
fuselage along with a flash suppressor. These certainly are the most obvious
traits of this version.
The model chosen for this occasion is the grand Hasegawa 1/32 mold, with its
superior quality, and a conversion set from the Czech brand, Owl.
Daniel Zamarbide
1
With different
colors, blue trousers,
black jacket and brown leather
boots, gloves and hat, we paint the
figure completely by brush.
After assembling 2
the fully furnished
interior, we create the
appearance of dirt to
replicate the effect
of this being used in
combat.
4
The engine
when fitted
to the aircraft,
with the
propeller fan, is
barely seen,
but it’s the
aspect of
it, when
completed,
with the
addition of the
BMW emblem.
6
Airplane fully
assembled, with the additon
of the flame arresters over
the engine exhausts.
5 Minor problems were
Fully
experienced when
enclosed
fitting the
fuselage and a
wings to the
perfect fit with the
fuselage.
engine and the
cowling.
7 8
We mask with low adhesion tape,
Underneath the wings, we mask
everything that is not painted in
off the wheel wells with both
the plane’s camouflage colors. We then
tape and Humbrol Maskol.
seal with Humbrol Maskol.
10
We apply the lighter
top gray, in this case,
the RLM 75.
9
We start the
painting phase,
always using the lighter
color first. In this case,
RLM 76 Light Blue.
12
With a series of
11 homemade masks, we
On the undersides, one of the add the black band edged in
wings is painted in RLM 22 Black, white in the area of the engine exhaust.
whilst the rest is RLM 76. then apply the RLM 74 Dark Grey.
14
We always apply the
13 lightest color first. In 15
this case, white. Then
With vinyl
masks from Polish we apply the
brand Montex, we are masks that will
ready to paint the national cover the white crosses, so
markings. we can airbrush the black.
16
Final result
after removal of
all masks.
17
Now, to create volume, white is mixed with
RLM 75, and each panel centre is tinted in
order to highlight it.
18
Next, we perform the same
operation, this time with the
19 darkest color, the RLM 74.
...we end the base color painting phase
process by performing the same effect for
the lightest of all the colors, the RLM 76.
20
We remove the
masks carefully,
so as not to raise the
white paint of the
dashed lines.
21 22
We apply a layer View of the model
of gloss varnish, place after removing the excess
the decals, and after a new layer of wash with a clean wash cloth,
gloss varnish, apply a dark brown wash and always in the direction of
for panel lines and rivets. air flow.
24
With earthy-toned
23 oil paints, we wash the panels
next to the exhausts in order to
With oils added,
create the effect of “burning” in
to gray shades and into
those areas.
shadows, we add several dirt
effects to the plane, including the
areas near the engine exhausts and
around the gun ports.
25
After removing all masks, we
check and rectify any small
defects of the paint layer.
26
Parts
of the
canopy,
cockpit, and
interior
parts
27
finished
with common Cutting the gun
techniques. tubes from their supports.
28
I choose a hypodermic needle that fits the
scale of the guns.
29 30 31
33
32 Fully finished
fuel tank after the
Propeller hub and fan
process of applying
set completely finished.
oils and filters.
35
34
Undercarriage,
Improved landing gear completely finished
brake wiring made from thin with the addition of
electrical wire. metallic paint on the
hydraulic dampers.
36
We perform
the same 37
procedure on
The outside, of
the inner gear
each gear door is
doors as we did
painted to match
within the main
the underside
wheel wells.
colours of the
wings, we use the
same techniques
as on the outside
of the aircraft.
38 39
Landing gear pieces completely finished. Landing gear assembled and ready to install on
the plane once it is finished.
40
The airframe, and fully finished
completed exterior parts, ready
for final assembly of the model.
HEINKEL
This is a larger dimensioned, short-run kit from
the Czech company, MPM. This is a simple to build
model, with a logical assembly sequence. The model
is complemented with an Eduard photo etch set for
the exterior, seats and belts, plus a Fritz X bomb.
Andrés Montiel
The cockpit
is ready to paint
after test fitting in
the fuselage. 1
2
I apply a thin layer of RLM 02
base color from Gunze, always
3 With a soft fine brush, I apply
AK024 Dark Streaking Grime diluted with its specific thinner.
enamel into the recesses and
separate the different areas
that make up the cockpit. The
excess can be removed with a
brush dipped in thinner.
4 5
Once in place, check its
position and fix with
cyanoacrylate.
The interior of the fuselage
needs plasticard strips that guide With careful alignment,
us, as the model does not the fuselage halves are joined, using
have locating pins. 6 7 the classic Revell polystyrene cement.
8 9
18 19
23 24
26 27
28 29
33 34 The wheels on this model are very large and visible. Pay special
attention to their alignment and paint finish. The rims are in black satin,
whilst the details are highlighted with a brown wash. The black matte
tyres are enhanced with light gray paint to create volume.
The
propeller
prepared with a
metallic base color
before adding
37
chipping
effects. ...and sprayed with RLM 70. Then the entire
A combined layer of both surface is wetted with water and with a
35 36 products is airbrushed... brush, the paint can be removed.
38 With this
technique, a
realistic effect is
achieved.
42 44
43
The Fritz X bomb comes as its own
kit, with photoetch fins and a ventral
support that we will adapt to fit the
plane. It is painted with RLM 65 and
slightly weathered with dark wash.
aide
José L. Ech
1 2
3 The cockpit, FuG 16 radio panel and
rudder pedals enhanced with extra
wiring.
7 8 11
9 10
12 13 14
15 16
17 18 19
27 28 29
30 31 32
33 34 35
36 37 38
24 With the fuselage paint dry, panel lines
are shaded with an airbrush.
52
59
60 61 62
I know about several photographs
on which four Bf 110 G-4/R3 appear, destroyed
by German personnel and captured by allied troops in Manuel Gil
Luther plant, Brunswick, during the final assembly phase. You
can clearly see W.Nr. 160791 on one of them. The main features of
these aircraft are the two-tone camouflage, RLM 75 and RLM 76, the
four exhaust flash hider tubes, and FuG 218 Neptun radar installation.
Other interesting features present on these Bf 110 G-4s are simplified
national insignia used at the end of the war, an absence of unit markings,
as well as a yellow band on the rear fuselage and yellow under-
wingtips. With all data taken from the Monogram Close-Up 18 Bf 110
G, and a series of photographs in the Kagero book, Messerschmitt
Bf 110 vol.III, where W.Nr. 160791 appears, I have made my
interpretation of a final production aircraft, ready
to be delivered to any operational unit.
Thin plasticard was used to disguise the wing root joint, 1
instead of using putty. 2
Interior parts were attached to lengths
3 of plastic rod, making them easy to hold
To fill gaps, I whilst painting.
use stretched
plastic which
I soften by
dipping in liquid
glue. When 4 Engine nacelles sanded
and re-scribed.
dry, remove the
excess with a
curved blade
and sandpaper.
5 Gun muzzles are 6 I used plastic card to fill the gap between
the horizontal tailplanes.
hollowed out with a
knife point.
Set of parts prepared for painting phase. 8
9
With an airbrush, I applied an AK704
Dunkelgrau basecoat.
10
Highlights are added
with 8 parts of AK704 Dunkelgrau
and 2 parts of Model Air 71008 Light Blue.
11 12 13
Second highlighting consists of 7 parts of AK704 I apply the AK070 Brown
Dunkelgrau, and 3 parts of Model Air 71008 Light Blue. Blue Wash over all surfaces, as a filter.
16
Using AK505 15 I brush apply highlights
Black oil paint, diluted with using 7 parts of AK704 Dunkelgrau
14 I remove excess wash. AK049 solvent, I add a pin wash. and 3 parts of Model Air 71008 Light Blue.
19
I add the
pre-painted
17 18 photoetch.
AK735 Black was used to I apply highlights with gray,
paint various details within the cockpit. mixed from AK735 Black and AK738 White.
20 21
With black, white, yellow, blue, red I stain the floor and 22 Klear is applied to the dials
and light green/gray paints, smaller the lower side of the cockpit with of the instrument panel in
interior and photoetch parts are detailed. AK042 European Earth pigment, applied dry. order to reproduce
the glass.
A graphite draughtsman’s pencil is used to 23
burnish the weapons. 24 Interior finished.
33 34
I join the The upper and lower
wings to the seam lines are now
fuselage. scribed onto the
fuselage.
I opened up the ends of the flash 36 37 All canopy parts are masked
hider tubes, using successively using the excellent self-adhesive
larger drill bits. masks supplied with the kit.
41
First, I apply
the lightest color,
RLM 76, composed of 6 42
parts of XF-23, 2 parts of I lighten panel
XF-19, and 2 of XF-2. centres with
a mixture
composed of 6
parts of RLM 76
and 4 of XF-2.
43 44
The areas of RLM The RLM 75
76 are masked off is added,
around the fuselage made of 5
and nacelles, using parts of XF-24
Play-Doh. and 1 of XF-50.
46
Our result,
45 after repeating
I mask the outline. the painting
process and
adding RLM 75
to the wings
and horizontal
tailplane.
47 48 Result.
Using Tamiya tape, I
carefully applied
home-made masks
for the Balkenkreuz.
50
51
I perform the same
process over the RLM 75,
mixing Vallejo’s 71052
German Gray with 71046
Pale Gray Blue, and
applying highlights and
wear around the wing root
and filler ports.
49
By airbrushing 71046 Pale Gray Blue from Vallejo Model Air, mixed
with AK738 White, I changed the tone of panel centres, and applied Decals were applied using 52
highlights. I created ‘wear’ effects in the direction of air flow over the Micro Set and Sol, before
RLM 76, repeating with AK739 Yellow on the yellow markings. sealing them under a
brush coat of Klear. The
decals are from Tamiya.
54 55
I seal the entire aircraft by applying Klear with an I apply AK045 Dark Brown Wash
53 airbrush before further painting and weathering. to all panel lines and access ports.
58
With a sponge
56 57 and three shades of
brown, I paint flame tubes, ending
I remove the excess wash with a piece of paper towel or a dry flat brush, wiping from front to back. with the lightest color on the edges.
61
59 60 After painting the wheels in XF-1 Black from
I paint the exhausts streaks with an airbrush, mixing Tamiya, gloss varnish and AK045 Dark Brown
identical quantities of XF-1 Black and XF-64 Red Brown, Wash are added before applying XF-24 Dark
very diluted in 96º alcohol, akin to dirty water. Gray on the tread.
62
64
Matt varnish is combined with a mixture of 1
part of Model Air 71059 matt varnish and 3 With AK039 black pigment,
of Tamiya X-20A thinner. 63 I add staining to the weapon ports.
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I know by now I can not
bring any thing new to
legendary aircraf t, as the histor y of this
rivers of ink have been
Instead, I’ll just explain wri tten about it already.
the peculiarities of the
which were evaluated nig ht-fighter variant,
v July and August 194
(Cologne). Specifically, 1 in Köl n-Ostheim
Bf 109 E-4 variants we
black, to which an ant re use d, painted entirely
enna was added, to aid
PeilG IV, consisting of nav iga tio n. This was the
a solenoid to detect the
beams directed from ear int ers ect ion of two radio
th. This solenoid was mo
fuselage, protec ted by unted on the lower
a teardrop- shaped fair
compensate for the ext ing of plexiglass. To
Tomás de la ra weight and change
due to the radar install in the centre of gravity,
fuente ation, the tails of these
by adding a fin and a pai airc raf t were modified
r of counterweights to
the rudder.
It is known that aircraf
t equipped as such, we
NJG 1. This Staffel was re assigned to 10. /
previously equipped wit
109 ’s, which came from h old C and D variant
IV.(N)/JG 2. It is also kno
not a successful Staffe wn that this was
l in combat , and later
transferred to the Nethe in Oct ober 1941 it was
rlands, where it began
the Bf 110. to be equipped with
3 4 5
6 7
8 9
10 I do a dry assembly to ensure how the cockpit fits and
that it closes well.
11
21
In this picture you can clearly see all of these applied
effects.
22
I did not
want to use the
crosses from the OWL kit,
as the open style of them
means there is a risk of silvering.
I prefer to paint using
Tamiya masking tape,
which is a great
help.
24
Now it’s the
turn of the oils, which
will create a very convincing patina.
The oils I use are: AK500 Light Gray
Highlight, AK502 Shadows
for Grey Ships, AK505 Black Smoke,
Titan 55 Blue Cyan, and Titan 74
Ground Natural Shade. I apply the
23 paint onto a paper towel to
absorb excess oil.
The result is perfect. I used
Tamiya XF-2 Flat White for the
crosses.
25
I apply small dots with all these colors randomly
across the surface of the aircraft, and later with a
flat brush dampened with heptane, I drag the oil in
the direction of air flow.
26
Once all of the paint,
and oils were dry, gloss varnish
was applied in order to create a
perfect surface for the decals.
27
These aircraft
had very few
markings, so
the work of
placing them
is relatively simple and
quick. I had to leave the Micro
Sol for up to 24 hours, since the
decals were initially reluctant to 28
conform to the panel lines and Now it is time to enhance the panels and rivets with oils. We can not
rivets. I then apply too light a shade, as this would appear exaggerated and unnatural.
re-gloss with varnish. Nor can it be a very dark tone, because there would be little contrast.
I tried three different mixes before finding the one that convinced me.
I made this from with AK500 Light Gray Highlight and AK502 Gray
Shadows for Ships, diluted with heptane.
29
The mixture is
applied with a brush.
Don’t worry if you go
too much out of the
lines.
30
Leave to dry and remove
excess using a paper towel,
dragging in the direction of
air flow. As seen in the image, the
effect is very subtle, not too much nor
too little.
31
In this
picture we can see
the overall look that is
created after washing
the panel lines.
32
33 The moving surfaces have rivets out, these For the moving surfaces, and the light areas,
can be highlighted by rubbing with a white such as numerals and crosses, I prefer paneling
retracting pencil. with a dark color. AK045 Dark Brown Wash is
perfect for this purpose.
34
Here we can see the
results of the previous
weathering treatments.
36
The final effect, here on the fuselage.
37
To complete the airframe, I varnish
with acrylic matte polyurethane
varnish, which provides a uniform
very dull tone with very few
airbrush passes.
With the wheels, I paint these as per the instructions, To weather them, The tires however, receive a wash
I use pigments from AK interactive. In particular, I use AK042 European with the AK015 Dust Effects, from
Earth and AK081 Dark Earth, the finish you achieve is very realistic. AK Interactive.
38 39
41
As for the
propeller, the
hub receives the
same treatment as
the fuselage and
wings, whilst the
blades are painted
with Gunze RLM
70 (H65).
42
As for the antenna, I paint the solenoid in
Rubbing the edges with a brown and the coils in a copper color. I cut
40 graphite pencil, creates effects the fairing and glue the grid of the antenna
In this picture we can see the look with very faint gray tones. inside. Once done, I fit to the bottom
achieved after the weathering stages, of the fuselage.
described above, are complete.
In this article we will see how, in a short space
of time, we can decorate a figure with a leather
suit, using oil colors. These paints are suitable,
as their satin appearance reproduces an effect
Roberto Ramirez quite similar to that imparted by actual leather.
Once the parts are prepared, I sand and clean them with a little
soap and warm water, to get rid
of resin dust produced during
sanding, and mould release
agent. We use a neutral gray
primer with both the figure
and the head, applied with
an airbrush. Continuing with
this useful tool, we apply a
layer of dark brown acrylic, 1 2
which will be the basis for
further work with our oil
paints (photos 1 & 2).
3 4
5 6 7 8 9 10
13 14 15 16 17 18
21 22 23 24 25 26
3 On a piece of paper, I put a lot of colors to 15 As you can see, and read, this is a 24 To facilitate the process of painting the head
that I’ll use, so that the oil in which they are 16 simple and quick technique that can 25 and so as to reduce the number of potential
diluted will absorbed into the paper. This 17 also tweak as much as we want, since mistakes, we will paint the head going from top
reduces the sheen which would normally 18 the oils dry slowly over dry several days. to bottom, ie, first paint the cap with its details,
occur when you apply them. You can speed up the drying time by and finally the flesh and hair. The hat, we have
placing the figure under a light source, painted in the regimental color of these pilots, ie
4 After draining the excess oil, move it to a giving off some heat, but not too much Blue Luftwaffe. Try to weather this color a little
plastic dish, which we will use as a paddle, because we run the risk of “cooking” by adding some “golden flesh” to the blue paint
and develop all the blends for both light and the figure, and perhaps even to melting and gradually adding highlights. This creates a
shading, slightly diluting the oils with White it if left too long. While they drying, we very attractive appearance to the officer’s cap.
Spirit. will decorate other areas of the figure. With patience and care, also paint all logos,
In this case, the hair, collar, jacket, lacing and the white trim of the hat.
5 We then apply a thin layer of base color in the gloves, shirt collar, Iron Cross, and the
6 middle of the jacket and then with a small, flat belt and holster. We will paint these in a
quality brush, let the paint flow in a vertical lighter color with acrylic paints.
7 movement, both up and down. 26 With the new set of paints from AK-Interactive,
8 27 designed for painting of flesh, decorate the
face. Gradually, the base color is illuminated
28 with the specific paint for that color, and then
we add shadowing equally. To customize our
9 Shade it with pure black on the darker parts
face painting, we have decided to close the right
10 beneath creases to emphasize final volumes 19 For the trousers, follow the same
eye of the figure, as a wink, and play on a small
and enhance the effect of the leather. 20 technique used for jacket colors. The
scar on his left cheek, which adds a touch of
21 most remarkable detail are the multiple
personality to our character.
22 zippers these clothes had. We will use
11 When we finish this step, we highlight the a gold metallic acrylic color, mixed with
12 ‘higher’ parts of the figure, according to the some dark brown, to create a realistic
daylight scheme, using a bit of the base color effect. 29 In these concluding photos, you can see that
13 lightened that we had previously added.
30 using different types of paints, oils, acrylics
14 Applying small amounts and blending them and metallics, that we can achieve a very
in the same way, but this time only upwards 23 With the main part of the finished figure, 31 attractive realistic representation of the materials
towards the lighter areas. To intensify scuffs, we will paint the head. First apply all base incorporated into the pilot’s uniform. Adding
scratches, etc, apply small white streaks colors to the parts, such as hat, hair, and figures can add another dimension to aircraft
and merge, but this time “picking” on the flesh, in order to get a general idea of the models, broadening the possibilities open to us
area with the brush, so we produce a slight variation of colors to used to highlight and opening a whole new area of creativity.
textured effect in these areas. these areas of the figure.
11 12
19 20
27 28 29 30 31
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Kfz 385 Tankwagen
er
Francisco Javi
tín ez Ro dr íguez
Mar
The base model to be used is the old Italeri kit (reference 6467, 1/35
scale), which is still very good when adding a little detail and modification.
Parts were used from the Hauler photoetch set (ref.HLU35038) designed
1
to fit the Italeri kit. It has previously been prepared using AK159
Photoetch Burnishing Fluid. This aims to darken the metal and give it a
very natural appearance, similar to dark steel. It is highly recommended
for all photoetch before use, as the process creates a rougher surface that
will facilitate subsequent gluing and painting processes.
2 A view of fully
assembled
vehicle. The use
of photoetched
detail parts
brings much to For the interior
the model. acrylic paints were used,
as are AK Interactive’s washes and pigments.
4 5
With the primer layer, on one hand we achieve unification of I used the new AK180 Surface Primer Red
the various different materials, and on the other, preparation from AK Interactive. It has excellent covering
for painting. It also allows us to observe any defects in building, power, hardness and it is based on an
gluing, and sanding. original primer color.
6 7 8
The vehicle base color is AK704 Dunkelgrau (RAL 7012 gray). This was A filter is applied in order to produce a variation
followed by adding AK738 White to the base colour, and highlighting in the base color. For this, I used AK071 Blue for
the centres of various open expanses, such as panels etc. Panzer Grey.
14 15 16
To finish the dust phase, I applied AK080 Summer Kursk Earth and a little plaster For the fuel stains, oil, grease and other
to achieve a consistent liquid, which would create a texture when applied with a wet effects, I use AK079 Wet Effects,
brush. The excess can be removed with White Spirit. AK084 Engine Oil, and oil paints Abt.015
Shadow Brown, Abt.110 Black and
Abt.160 Grease, applied as small splashes
and washes.
by
Daniel Zamarbide
In commemoration of the centenary of the beginning
of World War I, our next issue will be dedicated to this
conflict, with the addition of several characteristic models
of aircraft of that era, in both 1/32 and 1/48 scales. We
will show you in detail, effects such as fabric and wood,
which are the main elements and sign of identity of
these beautiful aircraft. You will also learn how to easily
reproduce the rigging, as well as the weathering effects
distinctive for the Great War aircraft. We will include
articles about figures and vehicles too, making this next
issue a very special edition. Tally Ho!.