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Have new ideas? Whatever your skill level, whatever your style, I’d love to see your patterns
and maybe publish them for you. Email me here at shari.entwine@yahoo.com for more
information. It is my hope that we can share new and exciting crocheting ideas and helpful
hints with one another.
Happy Crocheting!!
Shari
Publisher
Crochet is an easy hobby to learn and with
just a little practice, you’ll be making items
such as hats, scarves, blankets and more!
Most patterns use the basic stitches so you’re
in luck! Get ready to CROCHET!
Each pattern will start with a specific chain amount. Sometimes the chain amount
will be 2 and sometimes it may be 250 (blanket or scarf are examples). It's really
easy--but practice and make it consistent.
Push hook through stitch as directed in pattern. Here, instructions would read:
'Ch4, sl st in the first chain to form a ring.'
So, ch4 and then push your hook through the first chain that you created and pull
the yarn back through. You will have 2 stitches on the hook. Take the 2nd stitch you
just created and pull it through the first. Sl st complete.
Push your hook through the stitch and yarn over. Pull the yarn back through, you
will have 2 loops on the hook now. Yarn over and pull through both loops.
SC complete.
How to half double crochet: (hdc)
Yarn over, push you hook through the stitch, yarn over again. Pull the yarn through
the stitch and you will have 3 loops on the hook. Yarn over and pull through all 3
loops. Hdc complete.
Yarn over, push your hook through the stitch. Yarn over
and pull back through the stitch (3 loops on hook). Yarn
over, pull yarn through the first TWO stitches only and
you will have 2 loops on hook remaining. Now, yarn
over and pull through the last two loops.
DC complete.
This is a stitch: This is a post:
Beak
You Need Your H Hook and Orange Yarn.
Note: You will leave the last st of rows 2-5 un-worked
Note: Ch 1 will count as a stitch.
Ch 7
Row 1: 1 sc in the 2nd st from hook and 1 sc in each st across. (6)
Row 2: Ch 1 and turn, 1 sc in next 4 sts. (5)
Row 3: Ch 1 and turn, 1 sc in next 3 sts. (4)
Row 4: Ch 1 and turn, 1 sc in next 2 sts. (3)
Row 5: Ch 1 and turn, 1 sc in next st. (2)
Do Not Turn, sc around the entire beak, placing 2 sc in the corners.
Finish off and weave in any loose ends leaving a long tail to sew onto the beanie.
Materials:
Worsted, Red Heart Shimmer or Red Heart Super Savor
Yarn/tapestry needle
Hook size: I/5.50mm
Instructions:
Purse
CC = Green
Chain 150. Cut yarn, leaving a 6 – 8” tail. Weave chain in and out of spaces on Rnd 22 to form
your drawstring. Knot two ends together to form a wrist strap when bag is cinched closed.
Optional Leaves
This pattern describes in US terminology how to crochet this Easter Bunny as shown on picture. He has a
basket with an egg and a carrot for a snack on the go.
The pattern is worked in continious rounds, do not join or turn unless otherwise instructed. The bunny’s
body is crocheted from the bottom up, head and body are made in one part.
Size will be approximately 21 cm (8, 27 inch) tall, crocheted with hooksize 4 mm. (size G) this bunny is
made from acryllic yarn, but wool or cotton will be suitable as well.
Instead of a magic circle you can start crocheting 2 chain, then work the next stitches of the first round in the
2nd chain from hook. If you need help for making the other stitches you can always contact me or find the
right instructions on the internet.
Leave a long tail of yarn after crocheting each part, this will be used later for assembling
Materials:
- Crochet hook size G (4 mm)
- Fiberfill stuffing, safety eyes 9 mm
- Acryllic yarn in the colour creme (approx. 30 gram)
- Small amounts of acryllic yarn in yellow, orange, blue, green, skincolour,
Brown, white
-Stitchmarker, tapestryneedle, pins, brown embroidery floss, creme coloured
Sewing yarn
Body and head, from creme, blue, green, yellow, orange yarn:
The body and head are worked from the bottom up. Start with your choice of colour, except
creme, and change colour every round until round 14.
1.) 6 sc in mc
2.) 2 sc in 1 sc (12 st)
3.) 1 sc , 2 sc in 1 sc (18 st)
4.) 2 sc , 2 sc in 1 sc (24 st)
5.) 3 sc , 2 sc in 1 sc (30 st)
6.) 4 sc, 2 sc in 1 sc (36 st)
7-9) Sc
10.) Decrease 3 st, evenly spread on this round (33 st)
11.) Sc
12.) Decrease 3 st, evenly spread on this round (30 st)
13.) Sc
14.) Change to crème yarn, sc
15.) 3 sc, 1 decrease (24 st)
16-19) sc
20.) Decrease 3 st, evenly spread on this round (21 st)
21-22) sc
23.) Decrease 3 st, evenly spread on this round (18 st)
Start stuffing, and continue stuffing as you go along.
24) Sc
25) 2 sc , 2 sc in 1 sc (24 st)
26) 3 sc , 2 sc in 1 sc (30 st)
27) 4 sc , 2 sc in 1 sc (36 st)
28) 5 sc , 2 sc in 1 sc (42 st)
29) 6 sc , 2 sc in 1 sc (48 st)
30-31) sc
32) 6 sc, 1 decrease (42 st)
33) 5 sc, 1 decrease (36 st)
34) sc
35) 4 sc , 1 decrease (30 st)
36) sc
37) 3 sc , 1 decrease (24 st)
38) 2 sc , 1 decrease (18 st)
Turn the body with the colourchanges to the backside. Insert safety eyes on the front side
between rounds 29 and 30 on the head, approx 5 st apart, secure them and continue stuffing.
39) Sc
40) 1 sc, 1 decrease (12 st)
41) 6 decreases (6 st)
Close hole with the tapestryneedle, fasten off and weave in the end.
6 sc in mc, close with 1 sl st. fasten off and weave in the ends.
1) 6 sc in mc (6 st)
2) Sc
Close with 1 sl st and fasten off. Stuff the nose just a little bit, weave in the end.
1) 6 sc in mc (6 st)
2) 2 sc in sc (12 st)
Close with 1 sl st and fasten off, weave in the ends.
1) 6 sc in mc
2) 1 sc, 2 sc in 1 sc (9 st)
3) Sc
4) Increase 2 st, evenly spread on this round (11 st)
5-7) Sc
8) Decrease 2 st, evenly spread on this round (9 st)
9) Sc
10) 1 decrease (8 st)
11) Sc
12) 1 decrease (7 st)
1) 6 sc in mc (6 st)
2) 2 sc, 2 sc in 1 sc (8 st)
3, 4) sc
5) 2 sc, 1 bobble stitch, 5 sc
Stuff the hand and continue stuffing the arm lightly as you go along.
6) Decrease 2 st, evenly spread on this round (6 st)
7 - 15) sc
Close with 1 sl st, fasten off.
1) 6 sc in mc (6 st)
2) 2 sc in 1 sc (12 st)
3 - 7) sc
8) 2 sc, 1 decrease (9 st)
9) sc
10) 2 sc, 1 decrease, 2 sc, 1 decrease, 1 sc (7 st)
11 - 13) sc
Stuff feet just lightly, close with 1 sl st and fasten off.
1) 6 sc in mc (6 st)
2) 2 sc in 1 sc (12 st)
3, 4) sc
5) 1 sc, 1 decrease (9 st)
Close with 1 sl st, fasten off and stuff. Weave in the end.
Stuff the egg some more, work 2 or 3 decreases and close the hole with the tapestryneedle.
Weave in the end.
1) 6 sc in mc
2) 2 sc in 1 sc (12 st)
3) 1 sc, 2 sc in 1 sc (18 st)
4) 2 sc, 2 sc in 1 sc (24 st)
5) 7 sc, 2 sc in 1 sc (27 st)
6 - 9) sc, in back loop only
10) close with 1 sl st, 2 x [9 ch, skip 5 st, 1 sl st in next st, 7 sl st]
Stuff the carrot lightly, work decreases untill the hole is closed.
Insert crochethook in a st from 1 st round, and pull up a loop from the startingtail.
Now you have 1 loop on your hook. Work 3 ch, 1 sl st, 1 sc and close with 1 sl st in a st from
the 1st round. Fasten off and weave in the end
Now pin all the parts onto the body to find the right positions and sew them on with your
tapestryneedle.
Sew the facial parts and the tail preferably with the sewingyarn, for a smooth and almost
invisible attachment. Start sewing the facial parts with the mouth first (only at the top, the
bottom of the mouth may remain loose), the nose next and the cheeks at last. Stuff the cheeks
lightly while sewing them on.
Embroider the eyebrows and toes with the brown embroidery floss.
Weave in all remaining ends and your Easter Bunny is ready to go !
This pattern is my own original design and is for personal use only, please do not use it for
commercial or retailpurpose. Resale / redistribution of the pattern is strictly prohibited. Do
not translate or share this pattern.
All Millionbells patterns are protected by international Copyright Law.
Materials:
Any embroidery thread
Size 3 / 2.20MM Hook
Findings earring hook
2 Jump rings
Several beads of your choice
Elmers Glue
Pattern:
Materials:
Worsted weight yarn
Size E/US 3.5mm hook
Scissors
2 Buttons
Tapestry Needle
Stitch Markers (paperclips)
Terms:
ch: chain
sl st: slip stitch
sc: single crochet
hdc: half double crochet
dc: double crochet
RS: right side
WS: wrong side
* *: repeat step within
[ ]: total stitch count
Gauge:
9sc = 2” COPYRIGHT: This pattern may be printed for
your personal use only. You MAY NOT copy,
Measure the length of the sole when soles are done rewrite, redistribute or resell this pattern in
to check gauge any form as your own or otherwise. Items
created from this pattern may be sold.
Copyright © OwlLuvCrochet 2013
NOTE: (sc, hdc, dc) #: crochet the amount of stitches noted
# (sc, hdc, dc): crochet the amount of stitches noted in the SAME stitch
(sc,hdc,dc) #tog: crochet the number of stitches indicated together
1.
Newborn:
**Sole is worked in continuous rounds. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch in each
round to keep count.**
Sole:
Ch 9
Round 1: 2sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc4, hdc2, 5hdc in last stitch (this will turn your work around
and you will continue to work on the other side of the chain) hdc2, sc4, 2sc in last stitch [21]
Do not join here, continue working the next stitch as you start Round 2. Don’t forget to add a stitch marker at the beginning
of the round.
Round 2: 2sc in the next 2 stitches, sc5, 2sc in the next 3, 3sc, 2sc in the next 3, sc5, 2sc in the next
2 stitches [33]
Round 3: sc3, 2sc, sc8, *2sc, sc* 5 times, sc7, 2sc, sc3 [40]
Round 4: sl stitch in each stitch around. (make sure that sl st is done loosely. You may want to go up
a hook size for this round) [40]
Round 5: Elongate loop on hook after completing last st sl st (A). Flip your work (B). Working
on the WS of the sole, tighten loop around hook then insert hook underneath both the loop
created by the sl st and the back loop of the sc from Round 3 (working through 2 loops) (C & D),
sc around in same 2 loops. Sl st to join. Finish off and weave in ends. [40] The RS of the sole has
now become the BOTTOM of your bootie.
A B C D
Shoe:
**all rounds are joined with a sl st. ch1 does NOT count as a stitch**
(join with new color at the back of the sole)
Row 6: ch1 & turn (this will turn your work so you will be working with hook from the outside of the bootie) ,
hdc40, sl st to join [40]
Row 7: ch1 and turn, hdc2tog, hdc8, *hdc2tog* 10 times, hdc8, hdc2tog, sl st to join [28]
Row 8: ch1 and turn, sc9, *hdc2tog* 5 times, sc9, sl st to join [23]
Right Shoe ONLY:
Row 9: Do not turn. Sl st 8. Ch12, sc in 7th ch from hook, sc5, sl st in next stitch, sl st14. Finish off and
weave in ends. (make sure that sl st is done loosely. You may want to go up a hook size for this round) [23 sl st]
Left Shoe ONLY:
Do not turn. Sl st 14. Ch12, sc in 7th ch from hook, sc5, sl st in next stitch, sl st8. Finish off and weave in
ends. (make sure that sl st is done loosely. You may want to go up a hook size for this round) [23 sl st]
Sole:
Ch 11
Round 1: 2sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc6, hdc2, 5hdc in last stitch (this will turn your work around
and you will continue to work on the other side of the chain) hdc2, sc6, 2sc in last stitch [25]
Do not join here, continue working the next stitch as you start Round 2. Don’t forget to add a stitch marker at the beginning
of the round.
Round 2: 2sc in the next 2 stitches, sc7, 2sc in the next 3, 3sc, 2sc in the next 3, sc7, 2sc in the next
2 stitches [37]
Round 3: sc3, 2sc, sc10, *2sc, sc* 5 times, sc9, 2sc, sc3 [44]
Round 4: sl stitch in each stitch around. (make sure that sl st is done loosely. You may want to go up
a hook size for this round) [44]
Round 5: Elongate loop on hook after completing last st sl st (A). Flip your work (B). Working
on the WS of the sole, tighten loop around hook then insert hook underneath both the loop
created by the sl st and the back loop of the sc from Round 3 (working through 2 loops) (C & D),
sc around in same 2 loops. Sl st to join. Finish off and weave in ends. [44] The RS of the sole has
now become the BOTTOM of your bootie.
A B C D
Shoe:
**all rounds are joined with a sl st. ch1 does NOT count as a stitch**
(join with new color at the back of the sole)
Row 6: ch1 & turn (this will turn your work so you will be working with hook from the outside of the bootie) ,
hdc44, sl st to join [44]
Row 7: ch1 and turn, hdc2tog, hdc10, *hdc2tog* 10 times, hdc10, hdc2tog, sl st to join [32]
Row 8: ch1 and turn, sc11, *hdc2tog* 5 times, sc11, sl st to join [27]
Right Shoe ONLY:
Row 9: Do not turn. Sl st 9. Ch13, sc in 7th ch from hook, sc6, sl st in next stitch, sl st17. Finish off and weave
in ends. (make sure that sl st is done loosely. You may want to go up a hook size for this round) [27sl st]
Left Shoe ONLY:
Row 9: Do not turn. Sl st 17. Ch13, sc in 7th ch from hook, sc6, sl st in next stitch, sl st9. Finish off
and weave in ends. (make sure that sl st is done loosely. You may want to go up a hook size for this
round) [27sl st]
Instructions for flower & leaf on Page 6. 3.
3-6 Months:
**Sole is worked in continuous rounds. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch in each round
to keep count.**
Sole:
Ch 13
Round 1: 2sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc7, hdc, dc2, 5dc in last stitch (this will turn your work around
and you will continue to work on the other side of the chain) dc2, hdc, sc7, 2sc in last stitch [29]
Do not join here, continue working the next stitch as you start Round 2. Don’t forget to add a stitch marker at the beginning of
the round.
Round 2: 2hdc in the next 2 stitches, hdc9, 2hdc in the next 3, 3hdc, 2hdc in the next 3, hdc9, 2hdc
in the next 2 stitches [41]
Round 3: sc2, hdc, 2hdc, hdc, sc11, *2sc, sc* 5 times, sc10, hdc, 2hdc, hdc, sc2 [48]
Round 4: sl stitch in each stitch around. (make sure that sl st is done loosely. You may want to go up a
hook size for this round) [48]
Round 5: Elongate loop on hook after completing last st sl st (A). Flip your work (B). Working on
the WS of the sole, tighten loop around hook then insert hook underneath both the loop created by
the sl st and the back loop of the sc from Round 3 (working through 2 loops) (C & D), sc around in
same 2 loops. Sl st to join. Finish off and weave in ends. [48] The RS of the sole has now become the
BOTTOM of your bootie.
First stitch First stitch
goes here. goes here.
A B C D
Sole:
Ch 15
Round 1: 2sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc9, hdc, dc2, 5dc in last stitch (this will turn your work around
and you will continue to work on the other side of the chain) dc2, hdc, sc9, 2sc in last stitch [33]
Do not join here, continue working the next stitch as you start Round 2. Don’t forget to add a stitch marker at the beginning of
the round.
Round 2: 2hdc in the next 2 stitches, hdc11, 2hdc in the next 3, 3hdc, 2hdc in the next 3, hdc11,
2hdc in the next 2 stitches [45]
Round 3: sc2, hdc, 2hdc, hdc, sc13, *2sc, sc* 5 times, sc12, hdc, 2hdc, hdc, sc2 [52]
Round 4: sl stitch in each stitch around. (make sure that sl st is done loosely. You may want to go up a
hook size for this round) [52]
Round 5: Elongate loop on hook after completing last st sl st (A). Flip your work (B). Working on
the WS of the sole, tighten loop around hook then insert hook underneath both the loop created by
the sl st and the back loop of the sc from Round 3 (working through 2 loops) (C & D), sc around in
same 2 loops. Sl st to join. Finish off and weave in ends. [52] The RS of the sole has now become the
BOTTOM of your bootie.
First stitch First stitch
goes here. goes here.
A B C D
Ch 7.
Round 1: dc in 2nd chain from hook, dc, hdc2, sc2, ch2, (continue to work on the other side of the chain)
sc in the last sc made, sc, hdc2, dc2, ch2, sl st to the middle of the leaf, ch1 cut yarn and pull
through last ch. (you will use this tail to sew leaf on to shoe)
Flower:
Working in the button loop created on the strap (you will be using this loop as a Magic Ring).
Ch1 with new yarn to join. Make 1 petal on the right side of the strap. Make the other petals on
the left side of the strap, working around the button loop. (5 petals total)
6.
LACY FAN PENDANTS
By: Pearl Hegedus
Add a bit of chic to your outfit with this little lacy pendant. You can make it in a range of
different colors to suit your mood and your wardrobe. Finish it with your favorite charms and
Swarovski beads to make it more personal. A quick project for an experienced crocheter or an
ideal first project for someone wanting to try out smaller hooks and cotton thread.
Materials needed:
Yarn: Anchor Aida Crochet Cotton tkt No.20 BLUE 128
100% Mercerised Cotton in weight No.20 tkt - 50g = 400m
Hook: (letter and #) 1 mm
Other material: Aleene’s Quik Stiffen stiffening spray, jump rings, headpins, pliers, lobster clasp,
silver plated link chain and assorted beads or charms for the necklace
In magic ring make 5 sc, 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc, do not join here, carry on working on Row 1, you can
secure the piece with the tail in the end.
(This will be the hoop where you will put the jump ring in to attach the chain for the necklace)
Row 1: ch3 (count as dc), dc, ch1, [2dc, ch2, dc, ch2, 2 dc] in ch 2 space, ch1, 2 dc, turn
Row 2: ch3, dc, ch2, *[2 dc, ch2, 2 dc] in ch 2 space, ch2* repeat one more time then finish row
with 2 dc in last two sts
Row 3: ch3, dc, ch2, skip first ch2 space, *[2 dc, ch2, 2 dc] in nxt ch 2 space * two more times,
ch2, skip nxt ch 2 space and finish with 2 dc in the last two sts
Row 5: ch3, dc, ch2, skip first ch2 space, *[3 dc, ch2, 3 dc] in nxt ch 2 space* repeat 4 more
times, ch2, skip nxt ch 2 space and finish with 2 dc in the last two sts
Row 6 : ch3, dc, ch2, skip first ch2 space, *[2 dc, ch2, 2 dc] in nxt ch 2 space, ch 2* repeat 4
more times, skip nxt ch 2 space and finish with 2 dc in the last two sts
Row 7: ch3, dc, ch2, skip first ch2 space, *[dc, 3 ch picot x 5] in nxt ch2 space, [ch2, sc,ch2] in
nxt ch2 space* repeat 3 more times, [dc, 3 ch picot x 5] in nxt ch2 space, ch2, 2 dc in last 2 sts
1. Wrap yarn
around fingers
twice
overlapping on
the second
round.
2. Slip hook
under second
wrapped yarn
and yarn over
(yo) and pull
into circle
3. Chain
1
4. Single
crochet (sc)
into circle 6
times
5. Pull the tail
while holding
the last stitch
between your
thumb and
first finger to
close the
circle
Note: This pattern can be made with 1 color or you can add another color
with your starting color on any row.
Beanie:
Row 1: Make mc using sc into circle, sl st, ch 1 (See tutorial in this issue)
Row 2: 1 sc, then 2 sc in each stitch around (total 12). Slip stitch and chain
2
Row 3: 2 dc in the next stitch, then 1 in next, 2 and 1 all the way around
(total 24). Slip stitch and chain 2
Row 4: 1 dc in the first stitch and then 2 in the next, repeat all the way
around ending with 1 dc in the last stitch to sl st with the 1 dc that you
started the row with to make a double. (36). Slip stitch and chain 2
Row 5: 1 dc in the next 4 stitches, then 2 in the same, then dc in the next 5
stitches then 2 in the same and repeat all the way around. (44 total). Slip
stitch and chain 2
Row 6-11: 1 dc in each stitch around. Slip stitch and chain 1 after each row.
Row 12-14: 1 sc in each stitch around. Slip stitch together and chain 1 after
each row and weave in the ends.
Flower:
Row 1:
Start with a sc mc
Row 2:
Tr in the next stitch, dc in the
same st, chain 3, sl st into the
same st. (that completes one
pedal)
Repeat for each pedal.
This magic circle does 5
pedals nicely
To increase the size of the flower you can make the magic circle bigger with
either more sc into the circle or do a sc round before making pedals.
Weave in ends.
Yarn Talks
by Siew Clark
http://www.ravelry.com/designers/siew-clark
Measurements:
Top edge 60” (including the border 7” on
each side) Abbreviations:
Top to bottom 25”
ch chain
sc single crochet
sp space
Materials:
sk skip
Ice Yarns Angora Gold Batik; 750 yds. sl st slip stitch
Hook Size US G / 4 mm dc double crochet
tr treble crochet
V-st 2 dc in a st
t-ch turning chain
rep repeat
( ) to repeat first
[ ] repeat later
Fsc – Foundation single crochet http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PY6Iy7gdVEM
Option to use ch 195, add a row of sc across each ch, and then start Row 1
First-fsc: ch2, insert hook into first ch, (yo, pull through one loop) twice, yo, pull through two
loops.
Next-fsc: Insert hook into 2 loops at the bottom of the last SC worked, YO and pull through the 2
loops, YO and pull through 1 loop (creating ch 1), YO and pull through 2 loops (sc made).
Fsc 194
Section 1
Row 1: Ch 1, sc in first Fsc, ch 2, sk 1 Fsc, sc in next Fsc, (ch 3, sk 3 Fsc, sc in next Fsc) x 47, ch
2, sk 1 Fsc, sc in next Fsc, turn.
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc in ch 2, * ch 2, sc in ch 3 sp, ch 2, 4dc in next ch 3 sp; rep
from * 22 more times. ch 2, sc in last ch 3 sp, ch 2, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, dc in sc, turn.
Row 3: Ch 3, sc in 3rd dc, * ch 3, sc in next dc, ch 3, sc in next 3rd dc; rep from * 46 more times.
Ch 3, sc in next dc, ch 2, sc in next ch of t-ch, turn.
Row 4: Ch 1, sc in the 1st sc, ch 2, 4 dc in next ch 3 sp, * ch 2, sc in next ch 3 sp, ch 2, 4 dc in
next ch 3 sp; rep from * 22 more times. Ch 2, sk ch, sc in next ch of t-ch, turn.
Row 5: Ch 5, sc in dc, ch 3, sc in next 3rd dc, * ch 3, sc in next dc, ch 3, sc in next 3rd dc; rep
from * 22 more times. Ch 2, dc in the sc, turn.
Row 6: Ch 3, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, * ch 2, sc in next ch 3 sp, ch 2, 4 dc in next ch 3 sp; rep from * 22
more times. Ch 2, sc in next ch 3 sp, ch 2, sk sc, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, dc in next ch of t-ch, turn.
Repeat Rows 3 to 6 – Total 2 times; Rows 1 to 6 follow by 3 to 6.
Then repeat Rows 3 and 4 again; total 12 rows.
Section 2
Row 1: Ch 1, sk sc, sl st the sts in the bracket; (ch 2, 4 dc, ch 2, sc, ch 2, 3 dc). sc in next dc, * ch
3, sc in next dc, ch 3, sc in next 3rd dc; rep from * 40 more times. Ch 3, sc in next dc, turn.
Row 2: Ch 3, 2 dc in 1st ch 3 sp, * ch 2, sc in next ch 3 sp, ch 2, 4 dc in next ch 3 sp; rep from *
18 more times. Ch 2, sc in next ch 3 sp, ch 2, 2 dc in last ch 3 sp, dc in sc, turn.
Row 3: Ch 3, sc in 3rd dc, * ch 3, sc in next dc, ch 3, sc in next 3rd dc; rep from * 38 more times.
Ch 3, sc in next dc, ch 2, sc in next ch of t-ch, turn.
Row 4: Ch 1, sc in 1st sc, ch 2, 4 dc in next ch 3 sp, * ch 2, sc in next ch 3 sp, ch 2, 4 dc in next
ch 3 sp; rep from * 18 more times. Ch 2, sk ch, sc in next ch of t-ch, turn.
Row 5: Ch 5, sc in dc, ch 3, sc in next 3rd dc, * ch 3, sc in next dc, ch3, sc in next 3rd dc; rep
from * 18 more times. ch 2, dc in sc, turn.
Row 6: Ch 3, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, * ch 2, sc in next ch 3 sp, ch 2, 4 dc in next ch 3 sp; rep from * 18
more times. Ch 2, sc in next ch 3 sp, ch 2, dc in next ch 2 sp, dc in next ch of t-ch, turn.
Repeat Rows 3 to 6 – Total 4 times; Rows 1 to 6, follow by (Rows 3 to 6) x 3; Total 18 rows.
Section 3
Row 1: sl st the sts in the bracket; (3dc, ch 2, sc, ch 2, 4 dc, ch 2, sc, ch 2, dc). sc in next dc, ch 2,
sc in next 2nd dc, * ch 3, sc in next dc, ch 3, sc in next 3rd dc; rep from * 14 more times. Ch 3,
sc in next dc, ch 2, sc in next 2nd dc, turn.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in 1st sc, ch 2, 4 dc in next ch 3 sp, * ch 2, sc in next ch 3 sp, ch 2, 4 dc in next
ch 3 sp; rep from * 14 more times. Ch 2, sc in next sc, turn.
Row 3: Ch 5, sc in dc, ch 3, sc in next 3rd dc, * ch 3, sc in next dc, ch 3, sc in next 3rd dc; rep
from * 14 more times. ch 2, dc in the sc, turn.
Row 4: Ch 3, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, * ch 2, sc in next ch 3 sp, ch 2, 4 dc in next ch 3 sp; rep from * 14
more times. Ch 2, sc in next ch 3 sp, ch 2, 2 dc in next ch 2 sp, dc in next ch of t-ch, turn.
Row 5: Ch 3, sc in 3rd dc, * ch 3, sc in next dc, ch 3, sc in next 3rd dc; rep from * 14 more times.
Ch 3, sc in next dc, ch 2, sc in next ch of t-ch, turn.
Repeat Rows 2 to 5 – Total 6 times; Rows 1 to 5, follow by (rows 2 to 5) x 5; Total 25 rows.
Then repeat Rows 2 and 3 again; Total 27 rows.
Border (multiples of 4 + 1) for the 2 shorter sides (More sts will give the draping ruffle)
Row 1: Ch 3, dc in 22 sts, 2 dc in a st (corner), dc in 49 sts, 2 dc in a st (corner), dc in 69 sts,
turn. (Total 144 sts, not including the ch 3)
Row 2: Ch 4, sk the 1st 2 dc, (dc in next dc, ch 1, sk dc) x 33, (V-st in next dc, ch 1, sk dc) x 2,
(dc in next dc, ch 1, sk dc) x 24, (V-st in next dc, ch 1, sk dc) x 2, (dc in next dc, ch 1, sk dc) x
10, dc in ch of t-ch, turn.
Row 3: Ch 3, sk the 1st dc, dc in 24 sts, V-st in next sp, V-st in next dc, dc in 53 sts, V-st in next
dc, dc in 71 sts, dc in next ch, dc in next ch of t-ch, turn.
Row 4: Ch 1, sc in 1st dc, (ch 5, sk 3 dc, sc in next dc, ch 3, sl st into 1st ch) x 39, ch 5, sc in ch
of t-ch, turn.
Row 5: Ch 6, sc in 3rd ch of ch 5, (ch 5, sc in 3rd ch of ch 5) x 38, ch 2, tr in sc, turn.
Row 6: Ch 1, sc in tr, (ch 3, sc in 3rd ch of ch 5) x 38, ch 3, sc in 3rd ch of t-ch, turn.
Row 7: Ch 3, sk sc, (dc in 15 sts, V-st in a sc) x 9, dc in 11 sts, dc in sc, turn.
Row 8: Ch 4, sk the 1st 2 dc, [(dc in next dc, ch 1, sk dc) x 7, (dc in next dc, ch 1) x 2, sk dc] x 9,
(dc in next dc, ch 1, sk dc) x 5, dc in ch of t-ch, turn.
Row 9: Ch 3, sk 1st dc, (dc in 15 sts, V-st in a dc) x 10, dc in 12 sts, dc in ch, dc in next ch of t-
ch, turn.
Row 10: Ch 1, sc in 1st dc, (ch 5, sk 3 dc, sc in next dc, ch 3, sl st in 1st ch) x 44, ch 5, sc in ch
of t-ch, turn.
Row 11: Ch 6, (sc in 3rd ch of ch 5, ch 5) x 45, sc in 3rd ch of ch 5, ch 2, tr in sc, turn.
Row 12: Ch 1, sc in tr, (ch 3, sc in 3rd ch of ch 5) x 45, ch 3, sc in 3rd ch of t-ch, turn.
Row 13: Ch 3, sk sc, (dc in 15 sts, V-st in a sc) x 11, dc in 7 sts, dc in sc, turn.
Row 14: Ch 4, sk the 1st 2 dc, [(dc in next dc, ch 1, sk dc) x 7, (dc in next dc, ch 1) x 2, sk dc] x
11, (dc in next dc, ch 1, sk dc) x 3, dc in ch of t-ch, turn.
Row 15: Ch 3, sk 1st dc, (dc in 15 sts, V-st in a dc) x 12, dc in 12 sts, dc in next ch of t-ch.
Finished off and weave in ends.
Note : This chart doesn’t show the increases. Please refer to the above instruction for the
increases from Row 6 onwards.
The Rebecca Blanket & Beanie Set
By: Jessica Mays
This sweet and soft blanket set was created from my heart for my baby girl who is
due to join us in June 2014. Our sweet Rebecca Sarai is our sweet blessing from
God that we are excited to meet. This set can be made in any color and is perfect
for spring and summer because of its loose and open stitches.
Materials used:
Measurements:
38” X 40”
In first sc sp, one dc* skip 3 spaces and in 4th 2 dc ch 1 in same space
Blanket:
Ch 130 turn
Row 1: sc in second ch from hook and throughout.
Row2: in first sc sp, one dc* skip 3 spaces and in 4th 2 dc ch 1 in same space
(makes first butterfly) ** Repeat from * to ** and sc in last sc sp
Row 3: ch 3, 2dc ch1 2 dc in chain space of last "butterfly" of row 2. 2dc ch 1 2dc
in next ch 1 space throughout. Sc in last sp after final butterfly is made.
Row 4-63: repeat row 3 throughout
Row 64: sc all, bind off and weave in ends
Amelia Cloche
Thank you for choosing Maki crochet pattern.
You will find it is very easy to follow even for beginners.
Please visit one of my shops or Facebook page now and then to check for new patterns:
http://www.craftsy.com/user/1404603/pattern-store
http://www.ravelry.com/stores/makicrochet-designs
https://www.etsy.com/shop/MakiCrochet
https://www.facebook.com/maki.rucni.rad
For this pattern you will need:
- cotton yarn
- 3 mm crochet hook
- needle with blunt tip
You will use a double strand of cotton yarn for this pattern.
That means you will hold two strands together to create one strand while crocheting.
Gauge:
Stitches used:
- ch - chain
- sc - single crochet
- hdc - half double crochet
- dc - double crochet
- slst - slip stitch
You will join two soles by making sc around with third contrasting color.
2nd row:
Ch 1, 12 sc, 15 ch, 1 sc in sole, 13 ch, 12 sc, slst in ch 1 from beginning.
Note: for right flip-flop make 1 sc after four dc of sole, and for left flip-flop make 1 sc before four dc
of sole.
3rd row:
Ch 1, 12 sc, 13 sc around 15 ch from previous row, 11 sc around 13 ch, 12 sc, slst in ch 1 from
beginning. Fasten off.
1st row:
Make 12 sc starting from 6th sc to the
right of the center of heel.
2nd row:
*Ch 1, turn, 12 sc.
3rd-6th row:
Repeat row 2. Fasten off.
This part is just for decoration, you can skip it if you want.
Attach only one strand of yarn and make slst starting from center of heel and through straps
of flip-flop. When you come to the end fasten off and make a knot. Wave in all ends.
My advice to you is that you work as much tails as you can while crocheting, that way you
will not waste time when it is all finished.
Now you only need to do is lace of 120 ch double strand that you will pull through heel
before last row.
Heel:
1st row:
Make 12 sc starting from 6th sc to the right of the center of heel.
2nd row:
*Ch 1, turn, 12 sc.
3rd-6th row:
Repeat row 2. Fasten off.
You got the heel done.
This part is just for decoration, you can skip it if you want.
Attach only one strand of yarn and make slst starting from center of heel and through straps
of flip-flop. When you come to the end fasten off and make a knot. Wave in all ends.
My advice to you is that you work as much tails as you can while crocheting, that way you
will not waste time when it is all finished.
Now you only need to do is lace of 120 ch double strand that you will pull through heel
before last row.
1st row:
Make 14 sc starting from 7th sc to the right of the center of heel.
2nd row:
*Ch 1, turn, 12 sc.
3rd-6th row:
Repeat row 2. Fasten off.
This part is just for decoration, you can skip it if you want.
Attach only one strand of yarn and make slst starting from center of heel and through straps
of flip-flop. When you come to the end fasten off and make a knot. Wave in all ends.
My advice to you is that you work as much tails as you can while crocheting, that way you
will not waste time when it is all finished.
Now you only need to do is lace of 120 ch double strand that you will pull through heel
before last row.
AND YOU'RE DONE!!!
READY TO GIVE AS A GIFT OR SELL!!!
Touch Of Spring
Newborn Headband
Abbreviations: Are you wanting a quick and very easy way to dress up your
baby? This basic pattern does not take very long to make,
Slst – Slip stitch and would work great as a photo prop!! Make a number of
these in different colors to use with any outfit : )
Ch – Chain
Crochet designer: Lois Reimer – Ruby Needles Designs
Sc – Single crochet
If you have any questions or problems about this pattern,
Hdc – Half double crochet feel free to email me at reimertwins@gmail.com
http://www.craftsy.com/user/1243001/pattern-store
Dc, double crochet http://www.ravelry.com/stores/ruby-needles-designs
Ch 27, fasten off. The chained part should measure between 13-14 inches
You can either weave in your ends, leave the strings dangling, or repeatedly tie a knot (about 3 times),
cut it short, and sew your flower on top of the knot to hide it (quite effective).
Flower
Using 1 strand of worsted weight yarn, and a size 4.5mm crochet hook
Ch 31,
Row 1: Slst to the 2nd ch from your hook, slst in next 3 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 10 sts, 1 hdc in each of
the next 8 sts, 1 dc in last 8 sts. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing your flower together (approx. a foot)
Starting from the slst end of your work, begin winding it together to form a rose.
Sew together using a tapestry needle and the tail of your work.
Sew the rose onto the headband, and weave in your ends.
ENTWINE
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