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Note from your editor:

Spring has sprung,


It’s a brand new day,
Grab a hook and yarn and let’s crochet.

This is my favorite time of year, when everything is springing up with new


blooms and blossoms. It is a time of hope for something fresh.

We here at ENTWINE are looking forward to


the new things we have in store for this new
season.

Recently we had a big craft show in our area


where vendors from all over the southeast
gathered to share their wares. It was a blast!
This was a first for us and it was a success.

Have new ideas? Whatever your skill level, whatever your style, I’d love to see your patterns
and maybe publish them for you. Email me here at shari.entwine@yahoo.com for more
information. It is my hope that we can share new and exciting crocheting ideas and helpful
hints with one another.

Happy Crocheting!!

Shari
Publisher
Crochet is an easy hobby to learn and with
just a little practice, you’ll be making items
such as hats, scarves, blankets and more!
Most patterns use the basic stitches so you’re
in luck! Get ready to CROCHET!

How to hold your hook:


There are two common ways to hold your hook a) pencil and b) knife style

Try both holds and see which one you prefer.


These are not the only two, but the most common.

How to chain: (ch)

Each pattern will start with a specific chain amount. Sometimes the chain amount
will be 2 and sometimes it may be 250 (blanket or scarf are examples). It's really
easy--but practice and make it consistent.

*Tip: work chains LOOSELY, and not too tight.


How to Slip Stitch: (sl st)
Slip stitch is a common stitch used within many patterns.
It's commonly used to join a ring (hats are a great example), or used as a stitch
without height.

Push hook through stitch as directed in pattern. Here, instructions would read:
'Ch4, sl st in the first chain to form a ring.'
So, ch4 and then push your hook through the first chain that you created and pull
the yarn back through. You will have 2 stitches on the hook. Take the 2nd stitch you
just created and pull it through the first. Sl st complete.

How to single crochet: (sc)


The single crochet stitch is very basic and very common. It is important that you
learn to make this stitch consistent: not too tight and not too loose. If you make it
tight, your hands will hurt. If you make it too loose, it will look sloppy and it will be
hard to match your gauge and look of a pattern.

Push your hook through the stitch and yarn over. Pull the yarn back through, you
will have 2 loops on the hook now. Yarn over and pull through both loops.
SC complete.
How to half double crochet: (hdc)

Yarn over, push you hook through the stitch, yarn over again. Pull the yarn through
the stitch and you will have 3 loops on the hook. Yarn over and pull through all 3
loops. Hdc complete.

How to double crochet: (dc)


The double crochet stitch is one of the main stitches. It is a great way to add length
to a project, and is a more 'open' stitch and not tight as compared to a single crochet
stitch.

Yarn over, push your hook through the stitch. Yarn over
and pull back through the stitch (3 loops on hook). Yarn
over, pull yarn through the first TWO stitches only and
you will have 2 loops on hook remaining. Now, yarn
over and pull through the last two loops.
DC complete.
This is a stitch: This is a post:

This is a yarn over:

Want to learn more?


Visit Kristi at www.RAKJpatterns.com where you can learn
more tips and tricks to help you advance your skills.
Abbreviations

Crochet Stitch Abbreviations


alt = alternate htr = half triple crochet
approx = approximately in = inch
BP = back post inc = increase
BLO = back loop only incl = including
BPdc = back post double crochet inst = instructions
beg = begin, beginning lp(s) = loop(s)
CC = contrasting color lt = light
ch = chain MC = main color
cl = cluster med = medium
cont = continue mm = millimeter
dbl = double no. = number
dtr or dbl tr = double triple oz(s) = ounce
dc = double crochet pat st = pattern stitch
dec = decrease pc st = popcorn stitch
dir = directions prev = previous
dk = dark rem = remaining
dnt = do not turn rep = repeat
ea = each rnd = round
ex sc = extended single crochet rs = right side
fig = figure 1 (picture of stitch) sc = single crochet
FLO = front loop only sk = skip
FP = front post sl st = slip stitch
FPdc = front post double crochet sp = space
fig = figure 1 (picture of stitch) st(s) = stitch(es)
fo = finish off tch = turning chain
foll = following tog = together
gm or gr = grams tr = triple (treble)
gr = group x times = (such as repeat 5x)
hdc = half double crochet ws = wrong side
hk = hook yo = yarn over

APRIL SNEAK PEEK


Chick in Egg Baby Tushy Cover Set

E-mail me at: ashleydesignscorner@yahoo.com


Like me on Facebook: www.facebook.com/AshleyDesignsCorner
Yarn: Worsted Weight Yarn (Size 4) – Yellow, White and Orange
(Photographed Color: Vanna’s Choice Ducky, White and Goldfish)
Recommended Brands: Vanna’s Choice, Loops and Thread Impeccable and I Love This Yarn
Hooks: H – 5.00MM & K – 6.50MM
Additional Supplies: Tapestry Needle, Scissors & Measuring Tape
HDC Gauge using K Hook - 4X4 Inch Square: 12 Sts & 10 Rows.
Common Stitches & Abbreviations
Ch - Chain; Sc - Single Crochet; Hdc - Half Double Crochet; Dc – Double Crochet;
Sl St - Slip Stitch; ** - Repeat Around, St - Stitch; (7) - The Number of Stitches in that round/row.
Join: When ending the round, you will join with a sl st into the 1st st (NOT the Ch 1)
Notes: Ch 1 will NOT count as a st.
I would love to see pictures of your finished product. Pattern Design Credit.www.facebook.com/AshleyDesignsCorner
This Pattern may not be shared, copied or distributed. You are welcome to sell any items you make from my pattern.
Copyright: 2013 Ashley Leither, Ashley Designs Corner.

Chick in Egg Baby Tushy Cover Set www.ashleydesignscorner.com Page 1 of 3


0-3 Months: (13-14” Circumference and 5 - 5.5 Inches Tall)
You Need Your K Hook and Yellow Yarn.
Make a Magic ring,
RND 1: Ch 1, 7 sc in loop, join with a sl st in the 1st sc, pull tight (7)
RND 2: Ch 1, 1 hdc in same st, 2 hdc in each st, end with 1 hdc in same st as ch 1, join. (14)
RND 3: Ch 1, 1 hdc in same st, 1 hdc in next st, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st*,
Repeat *, end with 1 hdc in same st as ch 1, join. (21)
RND 4: Ch 1, 1 hdc in same st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts*,
Repeat*, end with 1 hdc in same st as ch 1, join. (28)
RND 5: Ch 1, 1 hdc in same st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts*,
Repeat*, end with 1 hdc in same st as ch 1, join. (35)
RND 6: Ch 1, 1 dc in same st, *1 sc in next hdc, 1 dc in next hdc*, Repeat*, join. (35)
RND 7: Ch 1, 1 dc in same st, *1 sc in next sc, 1 dc in next dc,* Repeat*, join. (35)
Repeat RND 7 until the beanie measures 5 inches tall for a newborn or 5.5 for a 1-3 month old.
Finish off and weave in any loose ends.

Egg Shell Topper


You Need Your K Hook and White Yarn
Make a Magic ring,
RND 1: Ch 1, 7 sc in loop, join with a sl st in the 1st sc, pull tight (7)
RND 2: Ch 1, 1 hdc in same st, 2 hdc in each st, end with 1 hdc in same st as ch 1, join. (14)
RND 3: Ch 1, 1 hdc in same st, 1 hdc in next st, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st*,
Repeat *, end with 1 hdc in same st as ch 1, join. (21)
RND 4: Ch 1, 1 hdc in same st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts*,
Repeat*, end with 1 hdc in same st as ch 1, join. (28)
RND 5: Ch 1, 1 sc in same st, 5 dc in next st, *skip next st, 1 sc in next st, 5 dc in next st*,
Repeat*, join.
Finish off and leave a long tail to sew onto the top of beanie.

Beak
You Need Your H Hook and Orange Yarn.
Note: You will leave the last st of rows 2-5 un-worked
Note: Ch 1 will count as a stitch.
Ch 7
Row 1: 1 sc in the 2nd st from hook and 1 sc in each st across. (6)
Row 2: Ch 1 and turn, 1 sc in next 4 sts. (5)
Row 3: Ch 1 and turn, 1 sc in next 3 sts. (4)
Row 4: Ch 1 and turn, 1 sc in next 2 sts. (3)
Row 5: Ch 1 and turn, 1 sc in next st. (2)
Do Not Turn, sc around the entire beak, placing 2 sc in the corners.
Finish off and weave in any loose ends leaving a long tail to sew onto the beanie.

Chick in Egg Baby Tushy Cover Set www.ashleydesignscorner.com Page 2 of 3


Eyes
You Need Your Tapestry Hook, White Yarn and 2 Black Buttons.
Sew the Buttons onto the beanie above the beak.

Tushy Cover (6 ½ inches in diameter)


You Need Your K Hook and White Yarn.
Make a Magic ring,
RND 1: Ch 1, 7 sc in loop, join with a sl st in the 1st sc, pull tight (7)
RND 2: Ch 1, 1 hdc in same st, 2 hdc in each st, end with 1 hdc in same st as ch 1, join. (14)
RND 3: Ch 1, 1 hdc in same st, 1 hdc in next st, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st*,
Repeat *, end with 1 hdc in same st as ch 1, join. (21)
RND 4: Ch 1, 1 hdc in same st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts*,
Repeat*, end with 1 hdc in same st as ch 1, join. (28)
RND 5: Ch 1, 1 hdc in same st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts*,
Repeat*, end with 1 hdc in same st as ch 1, join. (35)
RND 6: Ch 1, 1 hdc in same st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 4 sts*
Repeat*, join. (41)
RND 7: Ch 1, 1 sc in same st, 1 sc in next st and each st around, join. (41)
RND 8: Ch 1, 1 sc in same st, 5 dc in next st, *skip next st, 1 sc in next st, 5 dc in next st*,
Repeat*, join.
Finish off and weave in any loose ends.

Chick in Egg Baby Tushy Cover Set www.ashleydesignscorner.com Page 3 of 3


McKenna Flower Purse
By: Tia Davis (aka Crochet Rochelle)

Inspired by my lovely niece and Victorian era wrist


purses, I created this flower-like purse to encourage
spring along. I love the way the ruffled edges draw
together when this happy little bag is cinched closed,
creating a petal-ish blooming affect. I crocheted an
orange and yellow version for my niece, which received
an awesome review (from a 10-year-old’s
perspective!). This would be a perfect bag for a little
girl’s Easter outfit or for any time you want to carry a
colorful and bright accessory or small wrist purse. I
hope you enjoy this pattern and I encourage you to
connect with me!

Connect with me here:


http://www.crochetrochelle.com/
http://www.facebook.com/crochetrochelle
http://www.pinterest.com/crochetrochelle
Skill Level: Easy

Materials:
Worsted, Red Heart Shimmer or Red Heart Super Savor
Yarn/tapestry needle
Hook size: I/5.50mm

Gauge: Measurements: 8” x 8.5”


4 HDC = 1" (length)
3 Rows = 1" (height)

Key: RND = round


BLO = back loops only SC = single crochet
CC = change color SK = skip
CH = chain SL ST = slip stitch
HDC = half double crochet
JOIN = sl st to first dc of round
Notes:
Start your first stitch of each round in the same space as your chain.
Join your round to the first HDC, not your chain.
Chains do not count as stitches in this pattern.

Instructions:

Purse

Start with Green.


Rnd 1: Magic Ring, ch 2, hdc 12, join. (12)
Rnd 2: Ch 2, 2 hdc in each stitch around, join. (24)
Rnd 3: Ch 2, [2hdc in next stitch, hdc 1] repeat around, join. (36)
Rnd 4: Ch 2, [2hdc in next stitch, hdc 2] repeat around, join. (48)
Rnd 5: Ch 2, [hdc 11, 2 hdc in next stitch] repeat around, join. (52)
Rnd 6: Ch 2, [hdc 12, 2 hdc in next stitch] repeat around, join. (56)
Rnd 7: Ch 2, [hdc 13, 2 hdc in next stitch] repeat around, join. (60)
Rnd 8: Ch 2, hdc in back loops only (BLO) around, join. (60)
Rnd 9 – 10: Ch 2, hdc around, join. (60)
CC = Pink
Rnd 11 – 13: Ch 2, hdc around, join. (60)
CC = Cream
Rnd 14: Ch 2, hdc around, join. (60)
CC = Pink
Rnd 15 – 17: Ch 2, hdc around, join. (60)
CC = Cream
Rnd 18: Ch 2, hdc around, join. (60)
CC = Pink
Rnd 19 – 21: Ch 2, hdc around, join. (60)
CC = Cream
Rnd 22: Ch 2, [hdc 2, ch 1, SK 1 stitch] repeat around,
join. (60)
CC = Pink
Rnd 23: Ch 2, hdc around, join. (60)
Rnd 24: Ch 2, 2 hdc in each stitch around, join. (120)
Rnd 25: Ch 2, [hdc, 2 hdc in next stitch] repeat around, join. (180)
Rnd 26: Ch 2, [hdc, 2 hdc in next stitch] repeat around, join. (260)
CC = Cream
Rnd 27: Ch 1, [sc, 2 sc in next stitch] repeat around, join. (360)
Finish, weave ends.
Drawstring Wrist Strap

CC = Green
Chain 150. Cut yarn, leaving a 6 – 8” tail. Weave chain in and out of spaces on Rnd 22 to form
your drawstring. Knot two ends together to form a wrist strap when bag is cinched closed.

Optional Leaves

Ch 12, 3 hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc 5, sc 3, sl st to last


ch. Ch 2, sl st to 2nd ch from hook. Working down
opposite side of chain: sl st, sc 3, hdc 5, 3 hdc in last
space, sl st to 1st hdc. Ch 10 – 15 for a simple stem
(depending on use or to attach to wrist strap as
pictured). Add leaves, clovers or little flowers to the bag
or wrist strap for added embellishment.

Facebook, Pinterest and on Ravelry.


http://www.ravelry.com/designers/millionbells
www.etsy.com/shop/millionbells

Amigurumi Easter Bunny


Difficulty Level: Beginner/Intermediate

This Easter Bunny will be perfect for


all kids to play with or to use as a
decoration piece in your home. It will
also be very suitable as a lovely gift to
bring a smile on your special person's
face.
This pattern will guide you to crochet a
cute Easter Bunny as shown on picture,
it contains descriptions for making the
basket with an egg, and a carrot as
well!

Photography credit: M. Schepers

This pattern describes in US terminology how to crochet this Easter Bunny as shown on picture. He has a
basket with an egg and a carrot for a snack on the go.

The pattern is worked in continious rounds, do not join or turn unless otherwise instructed. The bunny’s
body is crocheted from the bottom up, head and body are made in one part.

Size will be approximately 21 cm (8, 27 inch) tall, crocheted with hooksize 4 mm. (size G) this bunny is
made from acryllic yarn, but wool or cotton will be suitable as well.

Instead of a magic circle you can start crocheting 2 chain, then work the next stitches of the first round in the
2nd chain from hook. If you need help for making the other stitches you can always contact me or find the
right instructions on the internet.

Leave a long tail of yarn after crocheting each part, this will be used later for assembling
Materials:
- Crochet hook size G (4 mm)
- Fiberfill stuffing, safety eyes 9 mm
- Acryllic yarn in the colour creme (approx. 30 gram)
- Small amounts of acryllic yarn in yellow, orange, blue, green, skincolour,
Brown, white
-Stitchmarker, tapestryneedle, pins, brown embroidery floss, creme coloured
Sewing yarn

Used stitches and abbreviations:


Ch = chain
Sl st = slip stitch
Sc = single crochet
Mc = magic circle
St = stitch (es)
Bobble stitch (made of 6 dc)

Body and head, from creme, blue, green, yellow, orange yarn:

The body and head are worked from the bottom up. Start with your choice of colour, except
creme, and change colour every round until round 14.

1.) 6 sc in mc
2.) 2 sc in 1 sc (12 st)
3.) 1 sc , 2 sc in 1 sc (18 st)
4.) 2 sc , 2 sc in 1 sc (24 st)
5.) 3 sc , 2 sc in 1 sc (30 st)
6.) 4 sc, 2 sc in 1 sc (36 st)
7-9) Sc
10.) Decrease 3 st, evenly spread on this round (33 st)
11.) Sc
12.) Decrease 3 st, evenly spread on this round (30 st)
13.) Sc
14.) Change to crème yarn, sc
15.) 3 sc, 1 decrease (24 st)
16-19) sc
20.) Decrease 3 st, evenly spread on this round (21 st)
21-22) sc
23.) Decrease 3 st, evenly spread on this round (18 st)
Start stuffing, and continue stuffing as you go along.

24) Sc
25) 2 sc , 2 sc in 1 sc (24 st)
26) 3 sc , 2 sc in 1 sc (30 st)
27) 4 sc , 2 sc in 1 sc (36 st)
28) 5 sc , 2 sc in 1 sc (42 st)
29) 6 sc , 2 sc in 1 sc (48 st)
30-31) sc
32) 6 sc, 1 decrease (42 st)
33) 5 sc, 1 decrease (36 st)
34) sc
35) 4 sc , 1 decrease (30 st)
36) sc
37) 3 sc , 1 decrease (24 st)
38) 2 sc , 1 decrease (18 st)

Turn the body with the colourchanges to the backside. Insert safety eyes on the front side
between rounds 29 and 30 on the head, approx 5 st apart, secure them and continue stuffing.
39) Sc
40) 1 sc, 1 decrease (12 st)
41) 6 decreases (6 st)
Close hole with the tapestryneedle, fasten off and weave in the end.

Mouth, from skin colour yarn:

6 sc in mc, close with 1 sl st. fasten off and weave in the ends.

Nose, from skin colour yarn:

1) 6 sc in mc (6 st)
2) Sc
Close with 1 sl st and fasten off. Stuff the nose just a little bit, weave in the end.

Cheeks, 2 x, from white yarn:

1) 6 sc in mc (6 st)
2) 2 sc in sc (12 st)
Close with 1 sl st and fasten off, weave in the ends.

Ears, 2 x, from crème yarn:

1) 6 sc in mc
2) 1 sc, 2 sc in 1 sc (9 st)
3) Sc
4) Increase 2 st, evenly spread on this round (11 st)
5-7) Sc
8) Decrease 2 st, evenly spread on this round (9 st)
9) Sc
10) 1 decrease (8 st)
11) Sc
12) 1 decrease (7 st)

Close with 1 sl st and fasten off. Do not stuff.


Fold the ends of the bottom part from the ears towards eachother and sew them secured.

Arms, 2 x, from crème yarn:

1) 6 sc in mc (6 st)
2) 2 sc, 2 sc in 1 sc (8 st)
3, 4) sc
5) 2 sc, 1 bobble stitch, 5 sc

Stuff the hand and continue stuffing the arm lightly as you go along.
6) Decrease 2 st, evenly spread on this round (6 st)
7 - 15) sc
Close with 1 sl st, fasten off.

Feet, 2 x, from crème yarn:

1) 6 sc in mc (6 st)
2) 2 sc in 1 sc (12 st)
3 - 7) sc
8) 2 sc, 1 decrease (9 st)
9) sc
10) 2 sc, 1 decrease, 2 sc, 1 decrease, 1 sc (7 st)
11 - 13) sc
Stuff feet just lightly, close with 1 sl st and fasten off.

Tail, from crème yarn:

1) 6 sc in mc (6 st)
2) 2 sc in 1 sc (12 st)
3, 4) sc
5) 1 sc, 1 decrease (9 st)
Close with 1 sl st, fasten off and stuff. Weave in the end.

Egg, from orange and blue yarn:

1) Start with blue yarn, 6 sc in mc


2) 2 sc in 1 sc (12 st)
3) 1 sc, 2 sc in 1 sc (18 st)
4) Change to orange yarn, sc
5) 2 sc, 2 sc in 1 sc (24 st)
6) Sc
7) Change to blue yarn, sc
8) Sc
9) Decrease 3 st, evenly spread on this round (21 st)
10) Change to orange yarn, sc
11) Decrease 3 st, evenly spread on this round (18 st)
12) Decrease 3 st, evenly spread on this round (15 st)
13) Change to blue yarn and start stuffing, sc
14) Decrease 3 st, evenly spread on this round (12 st)
15) Decrease 3 st, evenly spread on this round (9 st)

Stuff the egg some more, work 2 or 3 decreases and close the hole with the tapestryneedle.
Weave in the end.

Basket, from brown yarn:

1) 6 sc in mc
2) 2 sc in 1 sc (12 st)
3) 1 sc, 2 sc in 1 sc (18 st)
4) 2 sc, 2 sc in 1 sc (24 st)
5) 7 sc, 2 sc in 1 sc (27 st)
6 - 9) sc, in back loop only
10) close with 1 sl st, 2 x [9 ch, skip 5 st, 1 sl st in next st, 7 sl st]

Fasten off and weave in the end.

Carrot, from orange and green yarn:

1) Start with orange yarn and a long startingtail, 4 sc in mc


2) Sc
3) Increase 1 st (5 st)
Take the starting tail to the outside of work, through the mc from beginning.
4) Increase 1 st (6 st)
5) Sc
6) Increase 1 st (7 st)
7) Sc
8) Increase 1 st (8 st)
9) Sc
10-12) increase 1 st (9, 10, 11 st)

Stuff the carrot lightly, work decreases untill the hole is closed.
Insert crochethook in a st from 1 st round, and pull up a loop from the startingtail.
Now you have 1 loop on your hook. Work 3 ch, 1 sl st, 1 sc and close with 1 sl st in a st from
the 1st round. Fasten off and weave in the end

For the leaves you work 7 ch from green yarn,

6 sl st, 6 x [6 ch, 5 sl st, 1 sl st in the 1st ch from 7 ch].


Now you have made 7 leaves, sew them on top of the carrot and weave in the ends.

Suspenders, 2 x, from colour of your choice.

Work 30 ch, 29 sl st and fasten off.


Assembling.

Now pin all the parts onto the body to find the right positions and sew them on with your
tapestryneedle.

Sew the facial parts and the tail preferably with the sewingyarn, for a smooth and almost
invisible attachment. Start sewing the facial parts with the mouth first (only at the top, the
bottom of the mouth may remain loose), the nose next and the cheeks at last. Stuff the cheeks
lightly while sewing them on.

Embroider the eyebrows and toes with the brown embroidery floss.
Weave in all remaining ends and your Easter Bunny is ready to go !

This pattern is my own original design and is for personal use only, please do not use it for
commercial or retailpurpose. Resale / redistribution of the pattern is strictly prohibited. Do
not translate or share this pattern.
All Millionbells patterns are protected by international Copyright Law.

Thank you very much, Marjan Schepers.


www.etsy.com/shop/millionbells
Spring Time Flower Earring
Knot Ur GrandMa's Crochet
By: Melissa Page

Difficulty level: Beginner/Intermediate


Check out my websites:
http://melissaapage01.wix.com/geturhookon
https://www.facebook.com/pages/KnotUrGrandMasCrochet/194288567275885?ref=hl
Or email me at melissaapage01@gmail.com

Materials:
 Any embroidery thread
 Size 3 / 2.20MM Hook
 Findings earring hook
 2 Jump rings
 Several beads of your choice
 Elmers Glue
Pattern:

Round 1: Ch 10 and Join to make a ring


Round 2: 18 Hdc into the ring, sl to join
Round 3: Cluster st (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in the same st, skip 2 st and into the 3rd st
cluster st and repeat around. Sl to join in top of 1st dc. Total (6 clusters)
Round 4: * 4Dc in ch 1 sp of cluster, ch 4, sl in top of dc, ch 4 sl in same to st, ch 4
sl into the same st again making a picot. 4Dc into same st as the other 4 dc. Sc into
the hdc of the ring and draw up ro make the yarn a little longer. Repeat from *, Join
and sl together.
Weave in ends.
Dip the earring in water and glue mixture to stiffen and lay flat to dry.

Add beads, jump rings and earring hook.

All done Enjoy!!


Little Daisy
Mary Jane’s
Pattern

Sizes: Difficulty: Easy/ Advanced Beginner


Newborn: Length: 3.25”
0-3 Months: Length: 3.75”
3-6 Months: Length: 4.5”
6-12 Months: Length: 5”

Materials:
Worsted weight yarn
Size E/US 3.5mm hook
Scissors
2 Buttons
Tapestry Needle
Stitch Markers (paperclips)
Terms:
ch: chain
sl st: slip stitch
sc: single crochet
hdc: half double crochet
dc: double crochet
RS: right side
WS: wrong side
* *: repeat step within
[ ]: total stitch count

Gauge:
9sc = 2” COPYRIGHT: This pattern may be printed for
your personal use only. You MAY NOT copy,
Measure the length of the sole when soles are done rewrite, redistribute or resell this pattern in
to check gauge any form as your own or otherwise. Items
created from this pattern may be sold.
Copyright © OwlLuvCrochet 2013
NOTE: (sc, hdc, dc) #: crochet the amount of stitches noted
# (sc, hdc, dc): crochet the amount of stitches noted in the SAME stitch
(sc,hdc,dc) #tog: crochet the number of stitches indicated together
1.
Newborn:
**Sole is worked in continuous rounds. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch in each
round to keep count.**

Sole:
Ch 9
Round 1: 2sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc4, hdc2, 5hdc in last stitch (this will turn your work around
and you will continue to work on the other side of the chain) hdc2, sc4, 2sc in last stitch [21]

Do not join here, continue working the next stitch as you start Round 2. Don’t forget to add a stitch marker at the beginning
of the round.
Round 2: 2sc in the next 2 stitches, sc5, 2sc in the next 3, 3sc, 2sc in the next 3, sc5, 2sc in the next
2 stitches [33]
Round 3: sc3, 2sc, sc8, *2sc, sc* 5 times, sc7, 2sc, sc3 [40]
Round 4: sl stitch in each stitch around. (make sure that sl st is done loosely. You may want to go up
a hook size for this round) [40]
Round 5: Elongate loop on hook after completing last st sl st (A). Flip your work (B). Working
on the WS of the sole, tighten loop around hook then insert hook underneath both the loop
created by the sl st and the back loop of the sc from Round 3 (working through 2 loops) (C & D),
sc around in same 2 loops. Sl st to join. Finish off and weave in ends. [40] The RS of the sole has
now become the BOTTOM of your bootie.

First stitch First stitch


goes here. goes here.

A B C D

Right Side Wrong Side Wrong Side


Wrong Side

Image shown in 2 different colors so it is easier to see where hook goes.

Shoe:
**all rounds are joined with a sl st. ch1 does NOT count as a stitch**
(join with new color at the back of the sole)
Row 6: ch1 & turn (this will turn your work so you will be working with hook from the outside of the bootie) ,
hdc40, sl st to join [40]
Row 7: ch1 and turn, hdc2tog, hdc8, *hdc2tog* 10 times, hdc8, hdc2tog, sl st to join [28]
Row 8: ch1 and turn, sc9, *hdc2tog* 5 times, sc9, sl st to join [23]
Right Shoe ONLY:
Row 9: Do not turn. Sl st 8. Ch12, sc in 7th ch from hook, sc5, sl st in next stitch, sl st14. Finish off and
weave in ends. (make sure that sl st is done loosely. You may want to go up a hook size for this round) [23 sl st]
Left Shoe ONLY:
Do not turn. Sl st 14. Ch12, sc in 7th ch from hook, sc5, sl st in next stitch, sl st8. Finish off and weave in
ends. (make sure that sl st is done loosely. You may want to go up a hook size for this round) [23 sl st]

Instructions for flower & leaf on Page 6. 2.


0-3 Months:
**Sole is worked in continuous rounds. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch in each
round to keep count.**

Sole:
Ch 11
Round 1: 2sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc6, hdc2, 5hdc in last stitch (this will turn your work around
and you will continue to work on the other side of the chain) hdc2, sc6, 2sc in last stitch [25]

Do not join here, continue working the next stitch as you start Round 2. Don’t forget to add a stitch marker at the beginning
of the round.
Round 2: 2sc in the next 2 stitches, sc7, 2sc in the next 3, 3sc, 2sc in the next 3, sc7, 2sc in the next
2 stitches [37]
Round 3: sc3, 2sc, sc10, *2sc, sc* 5 times, sc9, 2sc, sc3 [44]
Round 4: sl stitch in each stitch around. (make sure that sl st is done loosely. You may want to go up
a hook size for this round) [44]
Round 5: Elongate loop on hook after completing last st sl st (A). Flip your work (B). Working
on the WS of the sole, tighten loop around hook then insert hook underneath both the loop
created by the sl st and the back loop of the sc from Round 3 (working through 2 loops) (C & D),
sc around in same 2 loops. Sl st to join. Finish off and weave in ends. [44] The RS of the sole has
now become the BOTTOM of your bootie.

First stitch First stitch


goes here. goes here.

A B C D

Right Side Wrong Side Wrong Side


Wrong Side

Image shown in 2 different colors so it is easier to see where hook goes.

Shoe:
**all rounds are joined with a sl st. ch1 does NOT count as a stitch**
(join with new color at the back of the sole)
Row 6: ch1 & turn (this will turn your work so you will be working with hook from the outside of the bootie) ,
hdc44, sl st to join [44]
Row 7: ch1 and turn, hdc2tog, hdc10, *hdc2tog* 10 times, hdc10, hdc2tog, sl st to join [32]
Row 8: ch1 and turn, sc11, *hdc2tog* 5 times, sc11, sl st to join [27]
Right Shoe ONLY:
Row 9: Do not turn. Sl st 9. Ch13, sc in 7th ch from hook, sc6, sl st in next stitch, sl st17. Finish off and weave
in ends. (make sure that sl st is done loosely. You may want to go up a hook size for this round) [27sl st]
Left Shoe ONLY:
Row 9: Do not turn. Sl st 17. Ch13, sc in 7th ch from hook, sc6, sl st in next stitch, sl st9. Finish off
and weave in ends. (make sure that sl st is done loosely. You may want to go up a hook size for this
round) [27sl st]
Instructions for flower & leaf on Page 6. 3.
3-6 Months:
**Sole is worked in continuous rounds. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch in each round
to keep count.**

Sole:
Ch 13
Round 1: 2sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc7, hdc, dc2, 5dc in last stitch (this will turn your work around
and you will continue to work on the other side of the chain) dc2, hdc, sc7, 2sc in last stitch [29]

Do not join here, continue working the next stitch as you start Round 2. Don’t forget to add a stitch marker at the beginning of
the round.
Round 2: 2hdc in the next 2 stitches, hdc9, 2hdc in the next 3, 3hdc, 2hdc in the next 3, hdc9, 2hdc
in the next 2 stitches [41]
Round 3: sc2, hdc, 2hdc, hdc, sc11, *2sc, sc* 5 times, sc10, hdc, 2hdc, hdc, sc2 [48]
Round 4: sl stitch in each stitch around. (make sure that sl st is done loosely. You may want to go up a
hook size for this round) [48]
Round 5: Elongate loop on hook after completing last st sl st (A). Flip your work (B). Working on
the WS of the sole, tighten loop around hook then insert hook underneath both the loop created by
the sl st and the back loop of the sc from Round 3 (working through 2 loops) (C & D), sc around in
same 2 loops. Sl st to join. Finish off and weave in ends. [48] The RS of the sole has now become the
BOTTOM of your bootie.
First stitch First stitch
goes here. goes here.

A B C D

Right Side Wrong Side Wrong Side


Wrong Side

Image shown in 2 different colors so it is easier to see where hook goes.


Shoe:
**all rounds are joined with a sl st. ch1 does NOT count as a stitch**
(join with new color at the back of the sole)
Row 6: ch1 & turn (this will turn your work so you will be working with hook from the outside of the bootie) sc in
each stitch, sl st to join [48]
Row 7: ch1 and turn, hdc48, sl st to join [48]
Row 8: ch1 and turn, hdc2tog, hdc12, hdc2tog, *dc2tog* 8 times, hdc2tog, hdc12, hdc2tog, sl st to join [36]
Row 9: ch1 and turn, sc13, *hdc2tog* 5 times, sc13, sl st to join [31]
Right Shoe ONLY:
Row 10: Turn. Sl st 10. Ch14, sc in 7th ch from hook, sc7, sl st in next stitch, sl st20. Finish off and weave in
ends. (make sure that sl st is done loosely. You may want to go up a hook size for this round) [31 sl st]
Left Shoe ONLY:
Row 10: Turn. Sl st 20. Ch14, sc in 7th ch from hook, sc7, sl st in next stitch, sl st10. Finish off and
weave in ends. (make sure that sl st is done loosely. You may want to go up a hook size for this round)
[31 sl st]

Instructions for flower & leaf on Page 6. 4.


6-12 Months:
**Sole is worked in continuous rounds. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch in each round
to keep count.**

Sole:
Ch 15
Round 1: 2sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc9, hdc, dc2, 5dc in last stitch (this will turn your work around
and you will continue to work on the other side of the chain) dc2, hdc, sc9, 2sc in last stitch [33]

Do not join here, continue working the next stitch as you start Round 2. Don’t forget to add a stitch marker at the beginning of
the round.
Round 2: 2hdc in the next 2 stitches, hdc11, 2hdc in the next 3, 3hdc, 2hdc in the next 3, hdc11,
2hdc in the next 2 stitches [45]
Round 3: sc2, hdc, 2hdc, hdc, sc13, *2sc, sc* 5 times, sc12, hdc, 2hdc, hdc, sc2 [52]
Round 4: sl stitch in each stitch around. (make sure that sl st is done loosely. You may want to go up a
hook size for this round) [52]
Round 5: Elongate loop on hook after completing last st sl st (A). Flip your work (B). Working on
the WS of the sole, tighten loop around hook then insert hook underneath both the loop created by
the sl st and the back loop of the sc from Round 3 (working through 2 loops) (C & D), sc around in
same 2 loops. Sl st to join. Finish off and weave in ends. [52] The RS of the sole has now become the
BOTTOM of your bootie.
First stitch First stitch
goes here. goes here.

A B C D

Right Side Wrong Side Wrong Side


Wrong Side

Image shown in 2 different colors so it is easier to see where hook goes.


Shoe:
**all rounds are joined with a sl st. ch1 does NOT count as a stitch**
(join with new color at the back of the sole)
Row 6: ch1 & turn (this will turn your work so you will be working with hook from the outside of the bootie) sc in
each stitch, sl st to join [52]
Row 7: ch1 and turn, hdc52, sl st to join [52]
Row 8: ch1 and turn, hdc2tog, hdc14, hdc2tog, *dc2tog* 8 times, hdc2tog, hdc14, hdc2tog, sl st to join [40]
Row 9: ch1 and turn, sc15, *hdc2tog* 5 times, sc15, sl st to join [35]
Right Shoe ONLY:
Row 10: Turn. Sl st 11. Ch15, sc in 7th ch from hook, sc8, sl st in next stitch, sl st23. . Finish off and weave in
ends. (make sure that sl st is done loosely. You may want to go up a hook size for this round) [35 sl st]
Left Shoe ONLY:
Row 10: Turn. Sl st 23. Ch15, sc in 7th ch from hook, sc8, sl st in next stitch, sl st11. . Finish off and weave in
ends. (make sure that sl st is done loosely. You may want to go up a hook size for this round) [35 sl st]

Instructions for flower & leaf on Page 6. 5.


Leaf:
(make 2)

Ch 7.
Round 1: dc in 2nd chain from hook, dc, hdc2, sc2, ch2, (continue to work on the other side of the chain)
sc in the last sc made, sc, hdc2, dc2, ch2, sl st to the middle of the leaf, ch1 cut yarn and pull
through last ch. (you will use this tail to sew leaf on to shoe)

Flower:

Working in the button loop created on the strap (you will be using this loop as a Magic Ring).
Ch1 with new yarn to join. Make 1 petal on the right side of the strap. Make the other petals on
the left side of the strap, working around the button loop. (5 petals total)

Petal: ch1, dc2, ch1, sl st in button loop.


To finish off, ch1 after last petal, cut yarn and pull through last ch. Weave in ends.

Sew buttons to shoes and weave in any ends.

6.
LACY FAN PENDANTS
By: Pearl Hegedus

Gifts and bobs


www.giftsandbobs.etsy.com
www.ravelry.com/designers/pearl-hegedus

Difficulty Level: Intermediate

Add a bit of chic to your outfit with this little lacy pendant. You can make it in a range of
different colors to suit your mood and your wardrobe. Finish it with your favorite charms and
Swarovski beads to make it more personal. A quick project for an experienced crocheter or an
ideal first project for someone wanting to try out smaller hooks and cotton thread.
Materials needed:
 Yarn: Anchor Aida Crochet Cotton tkt No.20 BLUE 128
100% Mercerised Cotton in weight No.20 tkt - 50g = 400m
 Hook: (letter and #) 1 mm
 Other material: Aleene’s Quik Stiffen stiffening spray, jump rings, headpins, pliers, lobster clasp,
silver plated link chain and assorted beads or charms for the necklace

Finished Measurements: blue: 7.5 cm x 6 cm


Notes for pattern: Stitches used in this Pattern:
*ch3 at the beginning of each row counts as a dc dc- double crochet
ch- chain
*pendant is worked flat,
sc- single crochet
Turning at the end of each row nxt – next

In magic ring make 5 sc, 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc, do not join here, carry on working on Row 1, you can
secure the piece with the tail in the end.
(This will be the hoop where you will put the jump ring in to attach the chain for the necklace)

Row 1: ch3 (count as dc), dc, ch1, [2dc, ch2, dc, ch2, 2 dc] in ch 2 space, ch1, 2 dc, turn

Row 2: ch3, dc, ch2, *[2 dc, ch2, 2 dc] in ch 2 space, ch2* repeat one more time then finish row
with 2 dc in last two sts

Row 3: ch3, dc, ch2, skip first ch2 space, *[2 dc, ch2, 2 dc] in nxt ch 2 space * two more times,
ch2, skip nxt ch 2 space and finish with 2 dc in the last two sts

Row 4: ch3, dc, ch2, skip first ch2 space,


*[3 dc, ch2, 3 dc] in nxt ch 2 space, ch 2* repeat 2 more times, skip nxt ch2 space and finish
with 2 dc in the last two sts

Row 5: ch3, dc, ch2, skip first ch2 space, *[3 dc, ch2, 3 dc] in nxt ch 2 space* repeat 4 more
times, ch2, skip nxt ch 2 space and finish with 2 dc in the last two sts

Row 6 : ch3, dc, ch2, skip first ch2 space, *[2 dc, ch2, 2 dc] in nxt ch 2 space, ch 2* repeat 4
more times, skip nxt ch 2 space and finish with 2 dc in the last two sts

Row 7: ch3, dc, ch2, skip first ch2 space, *[dc, 3 ch picot x 5] in nxt ch2 space, [ch2, sc,ch2] in
nxt ch2 space* repeat 3 more times, [dc, 3 ch picot x 5] in nxt ch2 space, ch2, 2 dc in last 2 sts

Finish it off by waving in ends, your necklace is


ready to be shaped and stiffened.
Let the piece fully dry before you add the chain and
the charms.
Magic circle tutorial:

1. Wrap yarn
around fingers
twice
overlapping on
the second
round.

2. Slip hook
under second
wrapped yarn
and yarn over
(yo) and pull
into circle
3. Chain
1

4. Single
crochet (sc)
into circle 6
times
5. Pull the tail
while holding
the last stitch
between your
thumb and
first finger to
close the
circle

6. Slip stitch (sl


st) into first sc
7. 2sc in each
st around
creating 12
stitches

Questons: Contact Shari at Shari.entwine@yahoo.com


SIMPLE BEANIE
By: Shari McGraw
Shari.entwine@yahoo.com

This is a very easy


beanie to make. It
whips up quickly and
is fun to do.

Difficulty level: Easy

Materials needed: Stitches used in this pattern:


• Red Heart Super Saver Yarn Chain- ch
(Pink and White) Single crochet -sc
• H Hook (5.00mm) Double crochet-dc
Triple crochet-tr
Magic Circle-mc

Note: This pattern can be made with 1 color or you can add another color
with your starting color on any row.
Beanie:

Row 1: Make mc using sc into circle, sl st, ch 1 (See tutorial in this issue)

Row 2: 1 sc, then 2 sc in each stitch around (total 12). Slip stitch and chain
2

Row 3: 2 dc in the next stitch, then 1 in next, 2 and 1 all the way around
(total 24). Slip stitch and chain 2

Row 4: 1 dc in the first stitch and then 2 in the next, repeat all the way
around ending with 1 dc in the last stitch to sl st with the 1 dc that you
started the row with to make a double. (36). Slip stitch and chain 2

Row 5: 1 dc in the next 4 stitches, then 2 in the same, then dc in the next 5
stitches then 2 in the same and repeat all the way around. (44 total). Slip
stitch and chain 2

Row 6-11: 1 dc in each stitch around. Slip stitch and chain 1 after each row.

Row 12-14: 1 sc in each stitch around. Slip stitch together and chain 1 after
each row and weave in the ends.

Flower:

Row 1:
Start with a sc mc

Row 2:
Tr in the next stitch, dc in the
same st, chain 3, sl st into the
same st. (that completes one
pedal)
Repeat for each pedal.
This magic circle does 5
pedals nicely
To increase the size of the flower you can make the magic circle bigger with
either more sc into the circle or do a sc round before making pedals.
Weave in ends.
Yarn Talks
by Siew Clark

http://www.ravelry.com/designers/siew-clark

The shawl is crocheted top-down for the middle


section. Then the border is crocheted outward on both
shorter sides. This pattern will work with any kind of
yarn and colors. Gauge is not important.
For a larger size shawl, use a bigger hook.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate

Measurements:
Top edge 60” (including the border 7” on
each side) Abbreviations:
Top to bottom 25”
ch chain
sc single crochet
sp space
Materials:
sk skip
Ice Yarns Angora Gold Batik; 750 yds. sl st slip stitch
Hook Size US G / 4 mm dc double crochet
tr treble crochet
V-st 2 dc in a st
t-ch turning chain
rep repeat
( ) to repeat first
[ ] repeat later
Fsc – Foundation single crochet http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PY6Iy7gdVEM

Option to use ch 195, add a row of sc across each ch, and then start Row 1

First-fsc: ch2, insert hook into first ch, (yo, pull through one loop) twice, yo, pull through two
loops.
Next-fsc: Insert hook into 2 loops at the bottom of the last SC worked, YO and pull through the 2
loops, YO and pull through 1 loop (creating ch 1), YO and pull through 2 loops (sc made).
Fsc 194
Section 1
Row 1: Ch 1, sc in first Fsc, ch 2, sk 1 Fsc, sc in next Fsc, (ch 3, sk 3 Fsc, sc in next Fsc) x 47, ch
2, sk 1 Fsc, sc in next Fsc, turn.
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc in ch 2, * ch 2, sc in ch 3 sp, ch 2, 4dc in next ch 3 sp; rep
from * 22 more times. ch 2, sc in last ch 3 sp, ch 2, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, dc in sc, turn.
Row 3: Ch 3, sc in 3rd dc, * ch 3, sc in next dc, ch 3, sc in next 3rd dc; rep from * 46 more times.
Ch 3, sc in next dc, ch 2, sc in next ch of t-ch, turn.
Row 4: Ch 1, sc in the 1st sc, ch 2, 4 dc in next ch 3 sp, * ch 2, sc in next ch 3 sp, ch 2, 4 dc in
next ch 3 sp; rep from * 22 more times. Ch 2, sk ch, sc in next ch of t-ch, turn.
Row 5: Ch 5, sc in dc, ch 3, sc in next 3rd dc, * ch 3, sc in next dc, ch 3, sc in next 3rd dc; rep
from * 22 more times. Ch 2, dc in the sc, turn.
Row 6: Ch 3, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, * ch 2, sc in next ch 3 sp, ch 2, 4 dc in next ch 3 sp; rep from * 22
more times. Ch 2, sc in next ch 3 sp, ch 2, sk sc, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, dc in next ch of t-ch, turn.
Repeat Rows 3 to 6 – Total 2 times; Rows 1 to 6 follow by 3 to 6.
Then repeat Rows 3 and 4 again; total 12 rows.

Section 2
Row 1: Ch 1, sk sc, sl st the sts in the bracket; (ch 2, 4 dc, ch 2, sc, ch 2, 3 dc). sc in next dc, * ch
3, sc in next dc, ch 3, sc in next 3rd dc; rep from * 40 more times. Ch 3, sc in next dc, turn.
Row 2: Ch 3, 2 dc in 1st ch 3 sp, * ch 2, sc in next ch 3 sp, ch 2, 4 dc in next ch 3 sp; rep from *
18 more times. Ch 2, sc in next ch 3 sp, ch 2, 2 dc in last ch 3 sp, dc in sc, turn.
Row 3: Ch 3, sc in 3rd dc, * ch 3, sc in next dc, ch 3, sc in next 3rd dc; rep from * 38 more times.
Ch 3, sc in next dc, ch 2, sc in next ch of t-ch, turn.
Row 4: Ch 1, sc in 1st sc, ch 2, 4 dc in next ch 3 sp, * ch 2, sc in next ch 3 sp, ch 2, 4 dc in next
ch 3 sp; rep from * 18 more times. Ch 2, sk ch, sc in next ch of t-ch, turn.
Row 5: Ch 5, sc in dc, ch 3, sc in next 3rd dc, * ch 3, sc in next dc, ch3, sc in next 3rd dc; rep
from * 18 more times. ch 2, dc in sc, turn.
Row 6: Ch 3, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, * ch 2, sc in next ch 3 sp, ch 2, 4 dc in next ch 3 sp; rep from * 18
more times. Ch 2, sc in next ch 3 sp, ch 2, dc in next ch 2 sp, dc in next ch of t-ch, turn.
Repeat Rows 3 to 6 – Total 4 times; Rows 1 to 6, follow by (Rows 3 to 6) x 3; Total 18 rows.
Section 3
Row 1: sl st the sts in the bracket; (3dc, ch 2, sc, ch 2, 4 dc, ch 2, sc, ch 2, dc). sc in next dc, ch 2,
sc in next 2nd dc, * ch 3, sc in next dc, ch 3, sc in next 3rd dc; rep from * 14 more times. Ch 3,
sc in next dc, ch 2, sc in next 2nd dc, turn.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in 1st sc, ch 2, 4 dc in next ch 3 sp, * ch 2, sc in next ch 3 sp, ch 2, 4 dc in next
ch 3 sp; rep from * 14 more times. Ch 2, sc in next sc, turn.
Row 3: Ch 5, sc in dc, ch 3, sc in next 3rd dc, * ch 3, sc in next dc, ch 3, sc in next 3rd dc; rep
from * 14 more times. ch 2, dc in the sc, turn.
Row 4: Ch 3, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, * ch 2, sc in next ch 3 sp, ch 2, 4 dc in next ch 3 sp; rep from * 14
more times. Ch 2, sc in next ch 3 sp, ch 2, 2 dc in next ch 2 sp, dc in next ch of t-ch, turn.
Row 5: Ch 3, sc in 3rd dc, * ch 3, sc in next dc, ch 3, sc in next 3rd dc; rep from * 14 more times.
Ch 3, sc in next dc, ch 2, sc in next ch of t-ch, turn.
Repeat Rows 2 to 5 – Total 6 times; Rows 1 to 5, follow by (rows 2 to 5) x 5; Total 25 rows.
Then repeat Rows 2 and 3 again; Total 27 rows.
Border (multiples of 4 + 1) for the 2 shorter sides (More sts will give the draping ruffle)
Row 1: Ch 3, dc in 22 sts, 2 dc in a st (corner), dc in 49 sts, 2 dc in a st (corner), dc in 69 sts,
turn. (Total 144 sts, not including the ch 3)
Row 2: Ch 4, sk the 1st 2 dc, (dc in next dc, ch 1, sk dc) x 33, (V-st in next dc, ch 1, sk dc) x 2,
(dc in next dc, ch 1, sk dc) x 24, (V-st in next dc, ch 1, sk dc) x 2, (dc in next dc, ch 1, sk dc) x
10, dc in ch of t-ch, turn.
Row 3: Ch 3, sk the 1st dc, dc in 24 sts, V-st in next sp, V-st in next dc, dc in 53 sts, V-st in next
dc, dc in 71 sts, dc in next ch, dc in next ch of t-ch, turn.
Row 4: Ch 1, sc in 1st dc, (ch 5, sk 3 dc, sc in next dc, ch 3, sl st into 1st ch) x 39, ch 5, sc in ch
of t-ch, turn.
Row 5: Ch 6, sc in 3rd ch of ch 5, (ch 5, sc in 3rd ch of ch 5) x 38, ch 2, tr in sc, turn.
Row 6: Ch 1, sc in tr, (ch 3, sc in 3rd ch of ch 5) x 38, ch 3, sc in 3rd ch of t-ch, turn.
Row 7: Ch 3, sk sc, (dc in 15 sts, V-st in a sc) x 9, dc in 11 sts, dc in sc, turn.
Row 8: Ch 4, sk the 1st 2 dc, [(dc in next dc, ch 1, sk dc) x 7, (dc in next dc, ch 1) x 2, sk dc] x 9,
(dc in next dc, ch 1, sk dc) x 5, dc in ch of t-ch, turn.
Row 9: Ch 3, sk 1st dc, (dc in 15 sts, V-st in a dc) x 10, dc in 12 sts, dc in ch, dc in next ch of t-
ch, turn.
Row 10: Ch 1, sc in 1st dc, (ch 5, sk 3 dc, sc in next dc, ch 3, sl st in 1st ch) x 44, ch 5, sc in ch
of t-ch, turn.
Row 11: Ch 6, (sc in 3rd ch of ch 5, ch 5) x 45, sc in 3rd ch of ch 5, ch 2, tr in sc, turn.
Row 12: Ch 1, sc in tr, (ch 3, sc in 3rd ch of ch 5) x 45, ch 3, sc in 3rd ch of t-ch, turn.
Row 13: Ch 3, sk sc, (dc in 15 sts, V-st in a sc) x 11, dc in 7 sts, dc in sc, turn.
Row 14: Ch 4, sk the 1st 2 dc, [(dc in next dc, ch 1, sk dc) x 7, (dc in next dc, ch 1) x 2, sk dc] x
11, (dc in next dc, ch 1, sk dc) x 3, dc in ch of t-ch, turn.
Row 15: Ch 3, sk 1st dc, (dc in 15 sts, V-st in a dc) x 12, dc in 12 sts, dc in next ch of t-ch.
Finished off and weave in ends.

Note : This chart doesn’t show the increases. Please refer to the above instruction for the
increases from Row 6 onwards.
The Rebecca Blanket & Beanie Set
By: Jessica Mays

Difficulty level: Intermediate

This sweet and soft blanket set was created from my heart for my baby girl who is
due to join us in June 2014. Our sweet Rebecca Sarai is our sweet blessing from
God that we are excited to meet. This set can be made in any color and is perfect
for spring and summer because of its loose and open stitches.

Materials used:

Bernat Baby yarn of your choice


I- Hook (5.5 mm)

Measurements:

38” X 40”

Special Stitch: Butterfly stitch

In first sc sp, one dc* skip 3 spaces and in 4th 2 dc ch 1 in same space
Blanket:

Ch 130 turn
Row 1: sc in second ch from hook and throughout.
Row2: in first sc sp, one dc* skip 3 spaces and in 4th 2 dc ch 1 in same space
(makes first butterfly) ** Repeat from * to ** and sc in last sc sp
Row 3: ch 3, 2dc ch1 2 dc in chain space of last "butterfly" of row 2. 2dc ch 1 2dc
in next ch 1 space throughout. Sc in last sp after final butterfly is made.
Row 4-63: repeat row 3 throughout
Row 64: sc all, bind off and weave in ends

Hat: Newborn size

Chain 4, slip stitch in first chain made or magic loop


Row 1: double crochet 12 in loop, slip stitch in first dc
Row 2: chain 2, two dc in every dc space (increase in every stitch). Slip stitch in
first dc.
Row 3: chain 2, *two dc in first dc space, 1 dc in next** repeat throughout
(increase in every other stitch). Slip stitch in first dc.
Row 4: chain 2, *two dc in first dc space, one dc in next two** repeat throughout
(increase in every third)
Row 5: chain 2, in same
space, dc ch 1 2dc (makes
first butterfly). *Skip 3, in
fourth space, 2 dc ch 1
2dc** repeat throughout.
Slip stitch in top of ch 2
Row 6: chain 1, slip stitch
into ch 1 space of first
butterfly. Ch 2, dc ch 1 2dc
in same space. *2dc ch 1 2dc in next ch 1 space** repeat throughout. Slip stitch in
top of ch 2.
Row 7-9: repeat row 6

Cut yarn and weave in ends!

Cuddle and snuggle and enjoy.

For questions about the pattern contact Jessica Mays at:


Jessalynnb1@gmail.com
Jo Boone’s Group Project………..
My name is Jo and although I do not have a shop, but instead I have a group of people that meet who crochet
to help those in need. We make hats for the local homeless shelter, Afghans for nursing homes, hats for the
homeless vets group, Hats for the shaken baby syndrome group, hats for the preemies at the local hospital.
We also make various other items for people we hear of that are in need of something.

On a personal Note; I am a 53 year old semi-retired lady who is


happily married to my wonderful hubby of 30 years who does not
mind me buying MORE yarn. We have a 28 year old daughter, a
rescue dog and rescue cat. We raise a huge garden each year
and can and freeze a lot of what we raise. The most of it gets
donated to our local food bank.

My mother taught me when I was about 8 yrs. old. She used to


help me make hats for the homeless until she had a stroke.
Between mom and me, we usually made around 150 each yr. for
the
homeless shelter. After mom had her stroke, she
could not crochet anymore and I needed a way to
get these hats made for the shelter. Not making
them was not an option. I, along with my friend Dee
Dee Counter-Griffis, started a crochet meeting at the
local library in our community. At our first meeting,
there was 5 of us. We have grown quite a bit since
then and have expanded to two meetings a week
now.

We donate a lot of hats to the local homeless shelter


and it does my heart good to see those hats walking
around our town. Our group donated over 150 to the
shelter this past Christmas. One of the men who
resides at the shelter told me once that a handmade hat meant more to him than a store bought hat because it
showed someone still cared about the homeless. We also made an afghan for a local family that was in need.

To me, crocheting someone something shows not


only you care for them but you respect them also.
Crocheting is time consuming and requires
dedication to finish the item for them.

My favorite hook is a G hook that was given to me by


a friend years ago find that the G hook is my “go to
“hook for a lot of things I make.

My Crocheting tip is that you can never have too


much yarn! With all the stress in our lives now,
crocheting is a way to relieve it and it is much
cheaper than therapy!
http://www.crochetrochelle.com
https://www.facebook.com/CrochetRochelle

Amelia Cloche
Thank you for choosing Maki crochet pattern.
You will find it is very easy to follow even for beginners.

Please visit one of my shops or Facebook page now and then to check for new patterns:
http://www.craftsy.com/user/1404603/pattern-store
http://www.ravelry.com/stores/makicrochet-designs
https://www.etsy.com/shop/MakiCrochet
https://www.facebook.com/maki.rucni.rad
For this pattern you will need:
- cotton yarn
- 3 mm crochet hook
- needle with blunt tip

You will use a double strand of cotton yarn for this pattern.
That means you will hold two strands together to create one strand while crocheting.

Gauge:

Stitches used:

- ch - chain
- sc - single crochet
- hdc - half double crochet
- dc - double crochet
- slst - slip stitch

This pattern is written in U.S. crochet terms.

You cannot copy, resell or distribute my pattern.


However, feel free to sell finished items made by using this pattern.
LET'S START!!!
sole
First you will make four soles, two of each contrasting color.
Work in round.

0-3 months (9,5 cm)


Start by making 16 chain.
1st round:
Make dc in the third chain from the hook, make another 12 dc in next 12 ch,
make 4 dc in last ch, make 13 dc on the other side of foundation chain, join
with slst in ch 2 space from beginning.
2nd round:
Ch 1, make 2 sc in each next 2 dc from previous round, 10 sc in next 10 dc, 2 sc
in each next 6 dc, 11 sc, 2 sc in next dc, 2 sc in slst, slst in first sc from
beginning.
3rd round:
Ch 1, make 2 sc in each next 3 sc from previous round, 11 sc, *1 hdc in next sc,
2 hdc in next sc (repeat from * 5 more times), 1 hdc, 11 sc, 2 sc in the each next
2 sc, 2 sc in slst, slst in first sc from beginning. Fasten off.
3-6 months (10 cm)
Start by making 18 chain.
1st round:
Make dc in the third chain from the hook, make another 14 dc in next 14 ch,
make 4 dc in last ch, make 15 dc on the other side of foundation chain, join
with slst in ch 2 space from beginning.
2nd round:
Ch 2, make 2 hdc in each next 2 dc from previous round, 12 hdc in next 12 dc, 2
hdc in each next 6 dc, 13 hdc, 2 hdc in next dc, 2 hdc in slst, slst in first hdc from
beginning.
3rd round:
Ch 1, make 2 sc in each next 3 hdc from previous round, 13 sc, *1 hdc in next
hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc (repeat from * 5 more times), 1 hdc, 13 sc, 2 sc in the
each next 2 hdc, 2 sc in slst, slst in first hdc from beginning. Fasten off.

6-9 months (11 cm)


Start by making 20 chain.
1st round:
Make dc in the third chain from the hook, make another 16 dc in next 16 ch,
make 4 dc in last ch, make 17 dc on the other side of foundation chain, join
with slst in ch 2 space from beginning.
2nd round:
Ch 2, make 2 hdc in each next 2 dc from previous round, 14 hdc in next 14 dc, 2
hdc in each next 6 dc, 15 hdc, 2 hdc in next dc, 2 hdc in slst, slst in first hdc from
beginning.
3rd round:
Ch 2, make 2 hdc in each next 3 hdc from previous round, 14 hdc, *1 dc in next
hdc, 2 dc in next hdc (repeat from * 6 more times), 1 dc, 14 hdc, 2 hdc in each
next 2 hdc, 2 hdc in slst, slst in first hdc from beginning. Fasten off.
NOW WE GO FOR THE UPER PART OF FLIP-FLOP!
0-3 months
1st row:
Take two soles of contrasting color and put them rear to rear like shown in the pictures.

You will join two soles by making sc around with third contrasting color.
2nd row:
Ch 1, 12 sc, 15 ch, 1 sc in sole, 13 ch, 12 sc, slst in ch 1 from beginning.
Note: for right flip-flop make 1 sc after four dc of sole, and for left flip-flop make 1 sc before four dc
of sole.

3rd row:
Ch 1, 12 sc, 13 sc around 15 ch from previous row, 11 sc around 13 ch, 12 sc, slst in ch 1 from
beginning. Fasten off.

You have now joined the soles and made a flip-flop.


Heel

1st row:
Make 12 sc starting from 6th sc to the
right of the center of heel.

2nd row:
*Ch 1, turn, 12 sc.
3rd-6th row:
Repeat row 2. Fasten off.

You got the heel done.

This part is just for decoration, you can skip it if you want.
Attach only one strand of yarn and make slst starting from center of heel and through straps
of flip-flop. When you come to the end fasten off and make a knot. Wave in all ends.
My advice to you is that you work as much tails as you can while crocheting, that way you
will not waste time when it is all finished.
Now you only need to do is lace of 120 ch double strand that you will pull through heel
before last row.

3-6 months (follow the pictures above from beginning)


1st row:
Take two soles of contrasting color and put them rear to rear like shown in the pictures
above.
You will join two soles by making sc around with third contrasting color.
2nd row:
Ch 1, 12 sc, 16 ch, 1 sc in sole, 14 ch, 12 sc, slst in ch 1 from beginning.
Note: for right flip-flop make 1 sc after four dc of sole, and for left flip-flop make 1 sc before four dc of sole.
3rd row:
Ch 1, 12 sc, 14 sc around 16 ch from previous row, 12 sc around 14 ch, 12 sc, slst in ch 1 from
beginning. Fasten off.

You have now joined the soles and make a flip-flop.

Heel:
1st row:
Make 12 sc starting from 6th sc to the right of the center of heel.
2nd row:
*Ch 1, turn, 12 sc.
3rd-6th row:
Repeat row 2. Fasten off.
You got the heel done.
This part is just for decoration, you can skip it if you want.

Attach only one strand of yarn and make slst starting from center of heel and through straps
of flip-flop. When you come to the end fasten off and make a knot. Wave in all ends.
My advice to you is that you work as much tails as you can while crocheting, that way you
will not waste time when it is all finished.

Now you only need to do is lace of 120 ch double strand that you will pull through heel
before last row.

6-9 months (follow the pictures above from beginning)


1st row:
Take two soles of contrasting color and put them rear to rear like shown in the pictures
above.
You will join two soles by making sc around with third contrasting color.
2nd row:
Ch 1, 14 sc, 16 ch, 1 sc in sole, 14 ch, 14 sc, slst in ch 1 from beginning.
Note: for right flip-flop make 1 sc after four dc of sole, and for left flip-flop make 1 sc before four dc of sole.
3rd row:
Ch 1, 14 sc, 14 sc around 16 ch from previous row, 12 sc around 14 ch, 14 sc, slst in ch 1 from
beginning. Fasten off.

You have now joined the soles and made a flip-flop.

Next is the heel part.

1st row:
Make 14 sc starting from 7th sc to the right of the center of heel.
2nd row:
*Ch 1, turn, 12 sc.
3rd-6th row:
Repeat row 2. Fasten off.

You got the heel done.

This part is just for decoration, you can skip it if you want.

Attach only one strand of yarn and make slst starting from center of heel and through straps
of flip-flop. When you come to the end fasten off and make a knot. Wave in all ends.
My advice to you is that you work as much tails as you can while crocheting, that way you
will not waste time when it is all finished.

Now you only need to do is lace of 120 ch double strand that you will pull through heel
before last row.
AND YOU'RE DONE!!!
READY TO GIVE AS A GIFT OR SELL!!!
Touch Of Spring
Newborn Headband

Abbreviations: Are you wanting a quick and very easy way to dress up your
baby? This basic pattern does not take very long to make,
Slst – Slip stitch and would work great as a photo prop!! Make a number of
these in different colors to use with any outfit : )
Ch – Chain
Crochet designer: Lois Reimer – Ruby Needles Designs
Sc – Single crochet
If you have any questions or problems about this pattern,
Hdc – Half double crochet feel free to email me at reimertwins@gmail.com
http://www.craftsy.com/user/1243001/pattern-store
Dc, double crochet http://www.ravelry.com/stores/ruby-needles-designs

Circumference: 13-14 inches


(newborn) Materials:
10.00 mm crochet hook
Gauge: 5 double crochet 4.5 mm crochet hook
stitches, worked over 2 rows, Worsted weight yarn
measures 1 ½ inches square Tapestry needle
Measuring tape - Ruler
Headband
Using 6 strands of yarn (approximately 85 in. long), and your size 10.00 mm crochet hook

Ch 27, fasten off. The chained part should measure between 13-14 inches

Tie the two ends together.

You can either weave in your ends, leave the strings dangling, or repeatedly tie a knot (about 3 times),
cut it short, and sew your flower on top of the knot to hide it (quite effective).
Flower
Using 1 strand of worsted weight yarn, and a size 4.5mm crochet hook

Ch 31,

Row 1: Slst to the 2nd ch from your hook, slst in next 3 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 10 sts, 1 hdc in each of
the next 8 sts, 1 dc in last 8 sts. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing your flower together (approx. a foot)

Starting from the slst end of your work, begin winding it together to form a rose.

Sew together using a tapestry needle and the tail of your work.

Sew the rose onto the headband, and weave in your ends.
ENTWINE
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