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1. Introduction ........................................................................................................................................... 1
3.
Background And Justification ............................................................................................................... 2
Objective ............................................................................................................................................... 3
OF YARN IN ETHIOPIA
4. Dissemination Of The Study ................................................................................................................. 4
6. Methodology ......................................................................................................................................... 4
Institute
7.2. Uster HVI ...................................................................................................................................... 7
7.3. Uster Tester 5 .............................................................................................................................. 14
7.4. Statimat ....................................................................................................................................... 15
Ginning and Spinning Technology Directorate
7.5. Twist meter.................................................................................................................................. 16
8. Data collection and Analysis ............................................................................................................... 21
April, 2015
Addis Ababa
I
Table of Contents
1. Introduction ........................................................................................................................................... 1
3. Objective ............................................................................................................................................... 3
6. Methodology ......................................................................................................................................... 4
9.1. Conclusion................................................................................................................................... 58
9.2. Recommendation......................................................................................................................... 59
I
1. Introduction
The government of Ethiopia has designed, and is implementing, strategies, policies and plans
towards achieving the GDP of the country. Ethiopian Government is giving special attention to
the textile industry sub sector in industrial development strategy. Following this, the sector is
bumming year after year. Now a day, different industries all over the globe are coming to the
country for investment following the attention given by the government of Ethiopia to the
sector. To make this for real, the Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute has planned
different activities, and the different departments under it has taken and cascaded those
activities in accordance. One of the basic reasons for being so is that not only it need less
capital for investment but also creates job opportunity for citizens on different levels of the
value chain. Accordingly, the country is implementing different strategies and incentives
which can encourage investment in the subsector targeting foreign currency earnings of 1
billion USD dollars at the end GTP (2007 E.C.) from the textile sector.
At present, there are around 20 factories which are producing yarn all over the country. These
industries are the first stage of the textile sector in the supply chain. From all these factories
there are around 300, 000 spindles and 19,000 rotors that both are expected to produce 260
tons of yarn per day on an assumption average count of 20 Ne. The study conducted here is
expected to answer this and finally true average count of the country will be known. So much
more has to be done to support them and enhance their production and product quality as long
as they play a very important role for the next section in the production area like weaving,
finishing and so on and also will take significant share in the country‘s economy especially
when we come to earn 1 billion USD at the end of the transformation plan. Most of our
factories couldn‘t influence world market when especially come to quality. So we have to
work on this respect and find out their main problems to tackle and address the solution
towards the problem to influence and to be credited on global market.
1
2. Background And Justification
Quality means meeting or exceeding customer expectations all the time. The key here is to
know accurately customer expectations on a continuing basis because unless you know
customer expectations how can you meet or exceed them? The expectations of quality and the
ability to distinguish various quality characteristics vary from one group of customer to
another. Generally, the more educated and sophisticated the customer, the higher and more
specific are the expectations of quality and more precise the ability of the customers to explore
these expectations.
Quality management consists of four parts. These are quality planning, quality control, quality
assurance and quality improvement.
Quality planning deals with planning the activities to meet the customer needs.
Quality control deals with monitoring the activities using different control points and checks to
ensure bad quality does not go to the customer.
Quality assurance is focused on establishing systems and procedures to ensure that quality is
achieved all the time.
Quality improvement concentrates on changing needs of the customers and proactively works
for improving the levels of quality not only of the product but also of the systems targeting
reduction in costs, timely services and delivery in time while adhering to product quality, legal
and regulatory requirements and ethical values.
As textile sector is expected to boom up in Ethiopia and the government‘s initiation, many
textile factories are coming to Ethiopia from all corner of the world and the Ethiopian
government is giving all facilities and incentives expecting bright future to the sector. These
spinning factories play great role on supplying chain as described above. Therefore the quality
of final product whether it is garment, woven and knitted fabric, or any other will depend
greatly on the quality of the yarn produced by spinning factories.
In the actual scenario, the yarn quality produced in our factories is much more less than the
world standards and we have to be sure on where Ethiopian yarn quality level lies for each
2
count of yarn. List of factories according to their quality of yarn must be known and which
factory produces a better quality of yarn shall be identified. The government may give its
incentive based on the yarn quality they really are producing and in addition to this;
improvement of yarn quality year after year must be watched so that it will give a hint where
the quality goes and to predict the quality after years as well. On the other hand, even though it
is possible to take guesses on the range of count of yarn being produced in the country, it also
needs study to know which yarn count they are producing frequently.
There are many factors that will influence quality of yarn. Starting from collection of cotton
being produced from the farm up to the winding section in spinning department, there is
significant influences on yarn quality deterioration. A separate study would have been needed
to know their level of yarn quality. To answer these questions stated above and other related
things, ANALYZING THE EXISTING QUALITY OF YARN IN ETHIOPIAN TEXTILE
MILLS is selected as a topic for study conduction.
3. Objective
3.1. General objective
The general objective of this study is to asses and analyzing the existing quality of yarn in
Ethiopian spinning factories.
3
4. Dissemination Of The Study
Establish study document and call for spinning factories for workshop to riveal the actula
scenario of the yarn they are producing and those of the international for each count of yarn To
share better experience among factories while producing the better quality yarn.
6. Methodology
All tests in relation to the USTER® STATISTICS 2007 were carried out under constant climatic
conditions. The temperature was 20 °C, the relative humidity 65%. The following table lists the
testing conditions and the sample sizes.
When comparing actual measurements with the data illustrated in the USTER®STATISTICS, it is
of utmost importance that the total measurement error is kept to an absolute minimum to warrant
compatibility. If this is not the case, false conclusions may be drawn from such a comparison.
There are four items that was done to minimize the measurement error:
proper conditioning under constant standard atmospheric conditions
exact calibration of the instrument
correct settings of the instrument
adequate sample size
4
7. Theoretical Background
USTER® STATISTICS levels, also known as USTER® STATISTICS percentiles, express how
many spinning mills worldwide are able to produce a yarn at the specified level or better. For
example, if a spinning mill reaches the 5% value, it means that only 5% of spinning mills
worldwide are able to produce a yarn at this quality level or better. At the other extreme, if a
measured value corresponds, for example, to the 95% level in the USTER® STATISTICS, it
means that 95% of the spinning mills worldwide are able to produce a yarn which is better than
this value. Thus, in the case of yarns and slivers, it can be seen that the lower the USTER®
STATISTICS level, the better the yarn or sliver quality. With raw fibers, however, a high or low
USTER® STATISTICS level does not provide a quality assessment, since fiber parameters are
inherent to the material at this stage.
The USTER® STATISTICS have been made for quality benchmarking on the corporate level.
Benchmarking is a total quality management tool and denotes the procedure of identifying and
quantifying topnotch or world-class performance (benchmarks) in a particular business or
product category and comparing the data with the performance of the own company or
product. Established benchmarks and quality standards substantiate the feasibility of attaining
greater proficiency and of narrowing the performance gap. They legitimize the implementation
of strategies to enhance the manufacturing process as a result of hard facts rather than
management intuition. In other industries, the availability of reliable competitor information
5
for comparative analyses in benchmarking is a major obstacle. Thanks to the USTER®
STATISTICS, data on the quality levels achieved by the top manufacturers in the textile
industry are public domain and easily accessible.
The USTER® STATISTICS regularly serve as the platform for yarn contracts and product
specifications in the framework of commercial transactions. This practice is commonly
accepted by the manufacturers, merchants, and processors of yarns. Many sales yarn spinners,
weavers, knitters, and retailers have formulated quality requirements based on the USTER®
STATISTICS. By experience they have determined what quality levels are appropriate for
what application. As a more general guideline to the prevailing quality requirements, literature
is available which addresses the subject of yarn specifications for an array of applications and
end users in both knitting and weaving. Much of the experience disclosed through these
publications emanated from applying the USTER® STATISTICS. Buyers and salesmen
involved in the traditional commodity type trade or in direct purchasing and sales are certainly
among the most enthusiastic users of the USTER® STATISTICS. They appreciate the
STATISTICS as a means of categorizing many different qualities by face value. An indistinct
yet popular belief prevails in the international markets for reasonably priced yarns that largely
correspond to the 25th percentile of the USTER® STATISTICS to be in high demand. Every
now and then, such a belief manifests an utter quality overkill with regard to the actual
processing and end user requirements; in other cases, such specifications may well be justified.
In the long run, however, the market as a whole is and will continue to be driven by the rule of
supply and demand, irrespective of where, when, and by whom the STATISTICS are referred
to in order to advertise or bargain. Good grades on the overall quality, though, will always
serve as a passport to both the domestic and international markets.
6
7.2. Uster HVI
USTER HVI is one of the most recent and modern fiber testing instruments now a day. HVI
spectrum test results are explained in this section. Data ranges are given, with the objective of
providing users with information for what to expect in their results.
Recent developments in HVI technology are the result of requests made by textile
manufacturers for additional and more precise fibre property information. Worldwide
competitive pressure on product price and product quality dictates close control of all
resources used in the manufacturing process.
the results are based on large volume samples, and are therefore more significant
problems as a result of fibre material can be predicted, and corrective measures instituted
before such problems can occur
7
Quality Abbreviatio
Description Unit
characteristics n
Micronaire Mic Indicates fiber fineness —
Upper Half Mean Corresponds to the classer's staple.
Length UHML Definition according to mm
Measure for variations of fiber length, length
Uniformity Index UI uniformity %
Bundle tenacity Strength Breaking tenacity measured on fiber bundle g/tex
Degree of reflexion of the cotton. The higher
Reflexion Rd this value, the better the cotton is rated. %
Yellowness +b Assessment of color, degree of yellowness %
Trash CNT Number of trash particles per defined area —
Trash Area Percentage of trash per defined area %
Amount of short fibers calculated from the
Short Fiber Index SFI fibrogram %
Calculated value based on a regression
Spinning Consistency equation that takes into account all HVI
Index SCI properties —
Maturity Index Mat Maturity of the cotton fibers (HVI method) —
Correlation: r = .921
Correlation: r = .938
The Spinning Consistency Index is a calculation for predicting the spinnability of the fiber. A
multiple regression equation can provide valuable information to anticipate the yarn strength and
spinning potential. The regression equation uses most of the individual HVI measurement results to
8
calculate the SCI. This index can be used to simplify the category system used in the cotton
warehouse. In general, the higher the index the higher the yarn strength and the better the overall fiber
spinnability.
2. Micronaire (Mic)
A fiber sample of constant weight is measured by passing air through the fibers and measuring the
drop in pressure. The micronaire scale has been established empirically with a standard set of cottons
and is not linear. Other factors such as fineness and maturity have an influence on micronaire results.
The Maturity Index is a relative value that is calculated using a sophisticated algorithm that includes
the HVI measurements of micronaire, strength and elongation. It indicates the degree of cell wall
thickness within a cotton sample. This Maturity Index correlates very well to the AFIS Maturity Ratio
and the reference method of microscopy
9
4. Upper Half Mean Length (Len)
The by weight measurement of the Upper Half Mean Length is calculated from the fibrogram.
A fiber beard of randomly clamped fibers is scanned optically across its length and the
fibrogram is derived from it. The Upper Half Mean Length corresponds to the classer‘s length
The Uniformity Index expresses the ratio of the Mean Length to the Upper Half Mean Length.
It is an indication of the distribution of fiber length within the fibrogram.
Uniformity Index = Mean Length / Upper Half Mean Length
10
The Short Fiber Index is a value that is calculated using a sophisticated algorithm. The
fibrogram is mathematically converted to a length distribution curve. The SFI is an indication
of the amount of fibers that are less than 0.5 inch (12.7 mm) in length. It correlates very well to
the AFIS Short Fiber Content by weight (SFC w).
7. Strength (Str)
The bundle strength is the breaking strength of the cotton fibers in grams per tex. The fineness
is calculated from the micronaire value. The fiber beard is broken at a continuous deformation
rate (CRE = Constant Rate of Extension) and with a 1/8-inch distance between the clamps.
8. Elongation (Elg)
11
Elongation is a measurement of the elastic behavior of the fibers in the bundle. The fibers are
clamped in the bundle with a 1/8-inch distance between the clamps. The first pair of clamps is
stationary, and the back pair of clamps is pulled away at a constant rate. The distance the fibers
extend before they break is recorded and expressed as percent elongation. For example, if you
were to measure 50% elongation, the fibers would have extended 1/16th of an inch before
breaking. Below is a table describing ranges of actual elongation values in cotton fibers
9. Moisture (Moist)
Moisture is the amount (%) of water (H2O) that is present in the sample being tested. Moisture
in the cotton varies with the time, temperature and humidity to which the samples have been
exposed. Consistent moisture is necessary to maintain HVI test results on the same level of
accuracy and precision. Best precision and accuracy are obtained with average sample moisture
of 6.5% – 8%.
This value expresses the whiteness of the light that is reflected by the cotton fibers. It
corresponds to the reflectance (Rd) represented in the Nickerson/Hunter color chart. It is used
in conjunction with the yellowness (+b) to determine the instrument-measured color grade of
the cotton.
11. Yellowness (+b)
This value expresses the yellowness of the light that is reflected by the cotton fibers. The
yellowness (+b) of the sample is determined by using a yellow filter. It corresponds to the +b
value represented in the Nickerson/Hunter color chart. The yellowness is used in conjunction
with the reflectance (Rd) value to determine the instrument-measured color grade of the cotton.
12. Color Grade (CG)
12
The color grade of a cotton sample is determined in a two-filter colorimeter. This objective
method was developed by Nickerson and Hunter in the early 1940s to check the USDA cotton
grade standards. Today, it is intended to completely replace the subjective visual grade
determined by the cotton classer.
13. Trash Count (TC)
Trash is measured on the same glass window as the color measurement. The sample is illu-
minated from underneath the glass window, and a black and white CCD camera analyzes the
changes in the pixels. A trash particle is counted if it exceeds the grayness threshold set in the
camera. All particles that cover the glass window are counted one by one, and the results are
expressed in trash particle counts per surface area.
14. Trash Area (TA)
The area that is covered by a trash particle is measured at the same time the particle is counted.
The area that is covered by a single particle is summed up with all areas of the other particles
counted on the surface of the glass window. The result is expressed in relation to the entire
measuring area of the glass window and is expressed as "% Area‖.
For example, a small number of trash counts can result in a high % Area values if the particles
are large. On the contrary, a high number of particle counts with a small % Area value indicates
the trash is smaller in size (pepper trash, for example).
15. Trash Code (T)
This is the trash or leaf code that is determined by calibrating the HVI with known samples
(i.e., trash standards). These samples are usually numbered from 1 to 7 with increasing amounts
of trash as the number gets larger. The standards used for calibration can be supplied by the
USDA or established by the official cotton standards agency in any cotton producing country.
16. Fluorescence (UV)
Fluorescence (UV) is the number of ultraviolet light waves that are reflected from the cotton
sample measured by a photocell. The measurement does not have any units and is intended
to provide a level of UV for comparison purposes. The fluorescence is greatly affected by
the weather conditions at the time of cotton harvesting. Fluorescence also increases over
time on cotton that is stored over several months.
17. Neps (Nep)
13
Neps are the number of fiber entanglements that are measured in the cotton sample. They are
created during any mechanical treatment of cotton fibers such as ginning, opening and cleaning.
Results are reported in neps/gram on a weight basis. The results correlate well with the AFIS Nep
measurement.
14
Hairiness Absolute value of hairiness. Measurement of the —
H
entire fiber length.
Standard deviation of —
sH Standard deviation of hairiness within a package
hairiness
Coefficient of variation of %
CVHb Variation of hairiness between packages
hairiness
Trash Dust Dust and trash in yarns. 1/1000 m
Trash Counts refer to 1000 m of yarn.
Coefficient of variation of Variation of the yarn diameter %
CVd
the diameter
Shape Shape of the yarn cross-section. Ratio of the axes —
Shape
of an ellipse.
Density D Density of the yarn g/cm3
7.4. Statimat
This fully automatic tensile tester represents the latest evolutionary stage of the legendary
STATIMAT line, which has been manufactured by Textechno for approximately 50 years In
addition to the advantages of low technical expenditure, high delivery speed, and extremely
reliable operation the STATIMAT ME+ enables the use of a package changer for feeding up to 50
yarn packages. The modular composition of the ME+ allows optimised configurations for every
technical demand and budget. It has almost similar values with USTER TENSORAPID yarn
tensile strength tester.
It can test
force(FH),
breaking tenacity,
coefficient of variation for RH,
breaking elongation,
coefficient of variation for EH,
work and work CV
15
Fig. STATIMAT ME+ yarn tensile tester
This is a semi-automatic device for the determination of the twist number on yarns, threads, and
rovings. The tester operates in directions, ―S‖ and ―Z‖. It utilizes the untwisting method, un- and
re-twisting method, as well as the SCHUTZ method for OE yarns. The test results are provided in
T/m. The device is equipped with an automatic „0― point detection, LC display for showing the
test results, and a printer. The gauge length can be set between 5 and 50 cm. optionally to the
integrated printer the tester can be linked to a PC system.
The term ‗Count‘ or ‗Yarn Number‘ is commonly used to define fineness of the material. The
fineness of the cotton yarn, like other solid and hard materials, cannot be expressed by the
measurement of its diameter because most yarns are soft and compressible. Also the cross section
of the spun yarn is not fully circular and it contains variation in thickness due to presence of thin
and thick places. The continuous filament yarns also suffer from this drawback. Therefore, special
16
Systems of Yarn Numbering
Several systems and units are used for expressing the yarn count, depending on the material used
for preparing the yarn & locality where the yarn has been manufactured. All these systems are
grouped into the following categories:
1. Indirect System:
In this system count is the number of units of length per unit of weight of yarn. In this case
higher the count, finer is the yarn. This system is generally used in cotton, woolen or linen etc
2. Direct System:
In this system count of yarn is the number of units of weight per unit length of yarn.
3. Universal System:
Tex system of yarn numbering is called as universal system. This is a Direct system of
count and is introduced by the International Standards Organisation (ISO) and various
organisations. This system is applicable from fibre to yarn stage. The fineness of fibre can
be expressed in terms of milli tex and the fineness of ropes are expressed in kilo tex.
Sl. Convert to
No. From
English Count Metric Count French Count Worsted Tex Denier
1. English 1 Ne x 1.69 Ne x 1.5 Ne x 1.5 590.5/Ne 5315/Ne
Cotton
Count, Ne
2. Metric Nm x 0.59 1 Nm x 0.50 Nm x0.88 1000/Nm 9000/Nm
Cotton
Count, Nm
3. French Nf x 1.18 Nf x 2 1 Nf x 1.77 500/Nf 4500/Nf
Cotton
Count, Nf
4. Worsted, W W x 0.6667 W x 1.129 W x 0.5645 1 885/W 7972/W
5. Tex, T 590.5/T 1000/T 500/T 885.8/T 1 Tx9
6. Denier, D 5315/D 9000/D 4500/D 79728/D D/9 1
17
Count Strength Product (CSP)
Lea strength by itself does not convey proper meaning unless it is combined with count. The
product of count and strength viz. CSP is a very important parameter as it is a measure of intrinsic
strength of the yarn. It indicates the number of hanks the yarn can support from the stand point of
strength. This is also termed as ‗Break Factor‘ which is given by:
CSP or Break Factor = gf/tex x 208.3 and
Skein Breaking Tenacity = L x 1000/2 x W x t
where, L = Skein Str. In kgf.
W = No. of wraps in the skein
t = Avg. yarn number in tex.
S-Twist: The twist in yarn due to which its spirals are in the line with the central portion the letter
‗S‘ when the yarn is held in vertical position.
Z- Twist: The twist in yarn due to which its pirals are into the line with the central portion of
letter ‗Z‘ when the yarn is held in vertical position.
The direction of twist in single yarn matters little but when single yarns are plied it becomes
YARN EVENNESS
The ‗Mean Linear Irregularity (U%)‘ or ‗Mean Quadratic Irregularity (CV%)‘ can be read
directly from the Integrator. The ‗Mean quadratic Irregularity (CV%) is always preferred as it
throws more light on the anomalies in cross-sectional variations in the material. For purely
random variations – and not for periodic – the values of U% and CV% can be converted as under:
The plots of thin places, thick places and neps against U% clearly demonstrate that their
association with U% is closer than that of neps. The good association of thick and thin places with
18
U% implies that the factors which influence unevenness (U%) are also likely to influence the
thick and thin places. Extensive mill experiments have, in fact, shown that the same factors which
influence the yarn U% also influence the level of imperfections, namely, the short fibre
percentage in cotton mixing, the type of drafting system and drafting parameters at ring frames,
Neps
When Cotton yarns are being tested, the Uster imperfections Indicator counts not only purely
fibrous neps but also foreign matter particles as neps. The foreign matter particles often have a
few fibres attached to them. Although the foreign matter particles are themselves removed during
bleaching, the fibre clusters can possibly be left behind and show-up as specks just as the fibrous
neps do. Thus, both the purely fibrous neps as well as the neps containing foreign matter particles
affect the yarn and fabric appearance. Only the pure foreign matter particles without attached
fibres get removed during bleaching without trace. Hence, their presence affects the clean
Well-known relationships between fiber and yarn properties determine the quality of any end
product. For example, finer, longer and stronger fibers allow for the spinning of finer, stronger
and more even yarn. In addition, finer, longer and stronger cotton tends to lower ends-downs in
spinning, resulting in higher spinning efficiencies if the processing equipment is maintained well.
The order of priority of the most important fiber properties is different for different spinning
systems, depending on the yarn formation technology applied. The following table shows the
order of priority for the two most important spinning systems, ring and open-end rotor spinning.
However, it should be noted that this is a general list and not specifically targeted toward one yarn
property.
19
Priority Ring Spinning OE-Rotor Spinning
1 Length and Uniformity Micronaire/ Fineness
2 Strength Strength
3 Micronaire/ Fineness Length and Uniformity
4 Trash, Dust, Seed Coat Con
FIBER TEST
No. of Tests
Parameter Abbreviation Unit Instrument samples within
Micronaire Mic --- USTER® HVI 1 10
Upper Half Mean
Length UHML UI mm % USTER® HVI 1 10
Bundle tenacity Strength g/tex USTER® HVI 1 10
Color Rd +b % --- USTER® HVI 1 10
Trash CNT Area ---% USTER® HVI 1 10
Short Fiber Index SFI % USTER® HVI 1 10
Spinning Consistency
Index SCI --- USTER® HVI 1 10
Maturity Index Mat --- USTER® HVI 1 10
Neps Neps/g SCN/g /g /g USTER® AFIS 1 10
SFC(n) SFC(w)
Length UQL(w) % % mm USTER® AFIS 1 10
Maturity Fine IFC Mat mtex % --- USTER® AFIS 1 10
Trash Trash/g Dust/g VFM /g /g % USTER® AFIS 1 10
YARN TESTING
No. of Tests
Parameter Abbrevia- tion Unit samples within
Count variations CVcb % 10 1
Mass variations CVm % 10 1
CVmb % 10 1
Hairiness H ------% 10
sH 10
CVHb 10
Imper-fections Thin places 1/ 000 m 10 1
Thick places 1/ 000 m 10 1
Neps 1/ 000 m 10 1
Trash Dust 1/ 000 m 10
Trash 1/ 000 m 10
Twist T CVT
Tensile FH cN 0
20
8. Data collection and Analysis
The following listed mills are addressed based on the time frame and all the necessary samples
are collected properly using polybags (polypropylene bags) having identification tags over the
bag. This paper tag contains factory name, type of product and raw material, number of samples,
count and type of yarn. S. Activities to be addressed Location of
No the factory
* Not included in the study due to 1 Adama Spinning Factory Adama
shortage of necessary data 2* Selen Dawa Spinning Factory Dire Dawa
3 Hawassa Textile Factory Hawassa
** No secondary data
4** Bahir Dar Textile Factory Bahir Dar
The types of data we collected from the 5 Ariba Minch Textile Factory Ariba Minch
factory comprise secondary data as well 6 MA Textile and garment Mekele
as primary data. The secondary data that 7* Syigen Dima Textile Factory Sebeta
8 Kombolcha Textile Factory Kombolcha
has been collected is since 2005 up to
9 Almeda Textile Factory Adawa
date and in addition to these, we also 10* Alemgena Spinning Factory Alemgena
collect the current yarns being produced 11* Edget Textile Factory Addis Ababa
at the factory level. But to get data of 12* Dire Dawa Textile Dire Dawa
production and quality for the last 2 and
half years it was difficult to get due to the following reasons.
21
8.2. Fiber
8.2.1 Secondary Data
Analysis:-
Generally,
23
Almost all the factories included under the study have received raw material quality satisfying their standard. There for expected to
produce a yarn quality that will satisfy their standard as long as they set fiber standard to obtain the set yarn quality standard.
Parameters other than micronaire, staple length and trash content are not considered. Even fiber strength is not almost being tested.
While purchasing of cotton, due the lack of testing instruments they are using manual and obsolete testing mechanism. So the above data
may not be valid and certain.
Calibrated instrument
Organized data
24
8.2.2. Primary Data
1 SCI grade ASTM-D 5867-05 141 115 109 147 124 131 83
2 Moisture % 8.5 8.8 7.6 9.2 8.4 8.3 6.9
3 Micronier value 4.35 4.41 4.16 3.65 4.59 4.91 4.62
4 Maturity 0.86 0.86 0.86 0.84 0.87 0.89 0.87
5 UHML (mm) 30.67 28.56 26.52 30.39 28.69 29.96 26.05
6 UI % 83.1 79.9 80.4 83.2 82.7 82.8 77.6
7 SF % 9.2 12.3 11.3 11.1 10.8 10.3 14.8
8 Strength (g/tex) 31.2 29.1 27.3 30.9 28.6 30 23.6
9 Elongation % 6.3 7.4 6.4 7.5 6.3 4 6.2
10 Reflectance (color Rd) 75.7 76.9 73.9 77.9 74.7 78.1 75.3
11 Yellowness (color +b) 7.9 8 7.5 7.7 7.4 8.1 13.8
12 Color Grade 41-1 31-2 41.2 31-2 41.1 31-1 13-3
13 Trash content % Es 149-2001 4.02 3.14 4.84 4.02 6 2.86 0.89
14 Average number of Pr EN 14278-1 9 5 19 9 7 6 14
sticky points
25
Analysis:-
26
In the micronier value Aribaminch is higher followed by
Bahirdar and MAA garment is lower followed by
Almeda and since micronier is the measure of air
permeability which is the indicator of fiber maturity
and fineness, and the higher the value the more reject
able the yarn will be as it cannot spun effectively and
has low dye pickups. And the lower the value the
higher the neps to generate through further spinning
processes.
Thus, Aribaminch has almost the reject able micronair
value of cotton, which is coarser, as compared to the
rest where as MAA garment seems to have the best
micronair value which is fine as compared to the rest
but the lower the value from the standard highly the
chance will be to create neps.
27
In the graph, kombolcha has the longest cotton fiber
where as Bahir Dar has the shortest. And longer
cottons, which are often also finer, are generally
more prone to forming neps during carding.
Longer fibers also enable lower roving and yarn
twists and higher ring spinning speeds to be
employed, also producing finer, stronger, more even
and less hairy yarns, as well as stronger fabrics with
better appearance than the short once.
Generally, Ethiopian cotton is categorized under
medium staple length. The result of Bahir Dar cotton
is categorized under short even though it is imported
from Sudan.
28
The SFI is an indication of the amount of fibers that are less than
0.5 inch (12.7 mm) in length.
And as we can see from the graph, Kombolcha has the least value
which is below 10 and this implies the factory has the lowest
SFC% where as Bahirdar is categorized under the high value of
SFC% followed by the average SFC% valued Adama, Almeda,
MAA garment, Awassa, and Aribaminch, respectively.
Now as we can see from the graph, Kombolcha and MAA garment
has a fiber with a greater strength followed by Aribaminch where as
Bahir Dar has the least strength followed by Almeda and Awassa as
compared to the rest.
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Elongation is a measurement of the elastic behavior of
the fibers in the bundle.
And following the table above, the graph here shows that
MAA garment and Adama has high elongation whereas
Arbaminch is the least and the rest four are categorized
under the average value of elongation.
30
This value expresses the yellowness of the light
that is reflected by the cotton fibers.
31
Stickiness of cotton is a characterstics of cotton to stick to each
other causing roller lapping and improper spinning in further
spinning processes. This problem arises from the harvesting
problem; i.e. when using the cotton before it reaches to the stage
of harvesting and improper ginning with the seed.
Thus, from the graph, although Almeda has relatively greater
stickiness value followed by Bahir Dar, these values doesn’t have
considerable impact on the spinning process. On the other hand,
Adama has the least stickiness value of cotton followed by
Aribaminch and Awassa.
8.3. Yarn
8.3.1. Secondary data
Counts: 21 Ne
32
Analysis:-
33
Counts: 30 Ne
34
Analysis:-
35
Counts: 16 Ne
Actual Value Factory STD Uster statistics Value Factory Uster statistics
level level
Strength 30 14.37 16 95
36
Analysis:-
37
Counts: 40 Ne
Value Factory Uster statistics level Value Factory Uster statistics level
38
Analysis:-
39
Uster level of different factories for different counts as per the quality percentage share stated above.
In general, all the counts (21Ne, 30Ne, 16Neand 40Ne) are ring Carded 100% Cotton.
Among the above factories, Adama spinning factory is producing relatively a better quality of yarn in case of secondary data.
It seems due to
Modernization of machineries
Educated employees
Quality awareness
NB:- As the values gets more and more, the quality of the yarn will get lesser and lesser for imperfection (thin, thick
and neps ) and CVm whereas as the values gets more and more, the value of the yarn will gets better and better
along with the values of strength and elongation.
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8.3.2. Primary data
Count: 30 Ne
41
Analysis:-
42
Count: 21 Ne
43
Analysis:-
44
Count: 40 Ne
45
Analysis:-
46
Uster level of different factories for different counts as per the quality percentage share stated above.
Rank U. Level Rank U. Level Rank U. Level Rank U. Level Rank U. Level Rank U. Level
40 Ne 2 88.5 3 95 1 76.25
30 Ne 1 92 2 92.7
21 Ne 5 95 1 38.8 3 67 4 90.7 2 53.65
In general when we see the USTER quality level of the factories with respective of production 40Ne, 30Ne and 21Ne of primary data
(Lab test result at ETIDI laboratory);
40Ne; Maa garment has better USTER quality level followed by Adama Textile factory (the yarn produced in Adama is 40 Hank and they
are not giving much attention to it and that results lower quality level. In observation, Adama is producing a better quality than others)
and Arba Mich textile respectively.
30Ne; both Kombolcha Textile and Awassa Textiles have almost the same USTER quality level.
Among the above factories when they are compared based on primary data, Maa garment has better USTER quality level with respect to the
others.
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Average count and possible range counts produced
48
Note:-
Yearly Average Counts Produced
Count range produced In ring frame line, average count of the country gets
coarser from 2005 to 2006 but back to a little finer
Production Line 2005 2006 2007 when we see from 2006 to 2007 E.C. While the
count range in ring cotton line is 6-40 Ne in the
factories conducted in the study but there are
Ring Line 24.12 23.49 24.29 Cotton Line PC Line factories in the country that can produce a count up
to 60 Ne even though it is not included in the study.
Open End Line 17.85 18.07 18.14 Ring Open Ring Open In open end line, the average count of the country is
Line End Line End getting a very small finer and finer year after year.
Line Line While the count range in open end cotton line is 7-
PC Line 29.34 22.75 30.51 6-40 7-30 15-60 12-20 30 Ne in the factories conducted
Ne Ne Ne Ne In polyester line, average count of the country gets
coarser from 2005 to 2006 but back to a little finer
when we see from 2006 to 2007 E.C. While the
count ranges in polyester line are 15-60 and 12-20
Ne in ring and open end line respectively.
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Analysis
In 2005 E.C
In 2006 E.C
50
In 2007 E.C
In ring line, Adama spinning and Awassa textile are producing relatively finer count and coarser count respectively.
In open end line, Maa garment and Awassa textile are producing relatively finer count and coarser count respectively.
In polyester cotton line, Arba minch and Awassa textile are producing relatively finer count and coarser count respectively
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Remedies towards solving the problems for quality parameters.
Stage Necessary quality Whenever there is variation from the standard, actions being taken to fill the gap.
parameters
Moisture content Adjust temperature and relative humidity, Conditioning the material.
Mixing control.
Trash content Blow room machines adjustment but if it is more than the standard reject during classifying
Mixing control.
If the trash content is >5% we penalize the customer and Complaining but receive whatever.
Fiber Keep clean the stock room and keep away the cotton bale from oily substance.
Micronaire Mixing control.
Whenever the other quality parameters are in standard and only the micronier value is out of
the standard we accept it.
Maturity Mixing control.
Neps Mixing control and farther cleaning, and card grid setting.
During Cotton classifying; if it is out of standard we have reject it bu if the cotton was arrived
we deal with reduction of price.
Speed and pipe line is checked in the blow room and card wire is checked as well
Staple length Mixing control and Machine machine setting.
If it is under for Ring frame Use for Open end.
Deal with sellers on price reduction.
Manually done by the expert and a judgment is given as per as well either to reject or to mix
with the better one.
Short fibre Mixing control and Machine setting.
content If it known at the site during cotton classifying stage, reject it but after it arrives the factory use
for open end.
Grid setting will be done.
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Stage Necessary quality Whenever there is variation from the standard, actions being taken to fill the gap.
parameters
Uniformity Mixing control
Strength Mixing control
Elongation Mixing control
Foreign material Collecting manually.
Color(Reflectance Mixing control
Rd) Checking by visualization and if it is not good we reject it.
Arranging by lot and mix together.
Keep clean the stock room and keep away the cotton bale from oily substance.
Color(yellowness Mixing control
+b) Checking by visualization and if it is not good we reject it.
Arranging by lot and mix together.
Keep clean the stock room and keep away the cotton bale from oily substance.
Sticky Minimizing the RH and stoking in dry.
Sliver/ Unevenness (U Machine setting and if it is auto of standard reprocess.
Roving %) If it is out of the standard, Quality control department give recommendation for production
department and solve the problem.
Grinding and cleaning, mobilizing the out leveler.
Check the speed, the settings of A% on the finisher draw frame and clean the m/c
Unevenness Quality control department give recommendation for production department and solve the
problem.
Check the speed in card, roving frame, ring frame and draw frame, the settings of A% on the
finisher draw frame and clean all the m/c
Imperfections Quality control department give recommendation for production department and solve the
Yarn problem.
Roller grinding , Cleaning
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Stage Necessary quality Whenever there is variation from the standard, actions being taken to fill the gap.
parameters
Check the speed in card, roving frame, ring frame and draw frame, the settings of A% on the
finisher draw frame and clean all the m/c
Hairiness Not a big problem
Appearance Cleaning on the machine.
Keep clean the ring frame m/c and the bale in the store
Count Check the A% setting in the draw frame
variation(CV)
strength Adjustment is done on line, but if it is out of standard it was rejected.
Elongation Minimizing the twist.
Twist Check the speed and the twist gear setting in the ring frame
Classmate fault Not checking
Check the draw frame and clean ring frame and draw frame m/cs
Moisture content Informing the store person to condition the bale store.
Proper conditioning of the lab and the store plus the spinning department.
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Main challenges to get a better quality of yarn
Possible problems they are Remedies being taken by the factory Remark
facing
Customers low interest for quality Products are being produced based on the specification on the commitment.
Spare parts shortage when needed Sometimes modification took place to solve shortage problem.
Purchase order as per the time is appriciated. Private factories are
Defective raw materials delivered Raw material shortage is the major problem; so that no strict lot mixes up giving priority
from suppliers follows for quality. Contamination and packing materials (PPC) are problem so towards cost
feedback is given for supplier. minimization.
Removal of defected once out of the lay down. Some factories(Maa
Poor maintenance of machines in Trying to follow as per the maintenance schedule Garment, Almeda,
the company Due to spare part problem, maintenance is no enough and also canivalization is Adama) are giving
being done. proper attention and
Lack of top management Due discusion with the management related to qualty. Qualtiry has to come as priority towards
commitment to quality an agenda of the weekly meeting. maintaining a proper
Even though in some factories more stress is given for production, but in others management system
the give more attention for quality. in any problem they
Low quality awareness of workers Quality awareness is being given especially for newly employed workers and are facing so as an
in the company regular quality awarenesdss mecanism is being done formally and informally. organized action is
Training programe will be prepared being taken to solve
Lack of Unequipped Physical Malfunction and non-availability of equipment seemed to be common as the problems.
laboratory factory is only focuses on cost minimization rather than quality.
Some parameters in most factories measured manually and visually (staple
length, Colour)
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The types of Instruments they are using for testing fiber and yarn are listed as follows
56
Stage Quality parameters Instrument Used
USTER tester 5
strength Auto dyn
Tensorapid-3
Elongation Auto dyn
Tensorapid-3
Twist Twist tester
Classmate fault -
Moisture content Humidity tester
Oven dry 012
wrapping Wrap reel
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9. Conclusion and recommendation
9.1. Conclusion
According to the secondary data on 4 yarn couts namely 21, 30, 10 and 40 Ne, the best uster
level achieved is 45.65 for 16 Ne in Adama and on the other hand Kombolcha has achieved
95 uster level for 30 Ne.
From the above 4 different counts of secondary data, Adama ranks first in three counts
namely 21, 16 and 30 Ne where as Kombolcha ranks last for the same counts. (on the basis of
percent share to quality of yarn parameters stated in the document).
According to the primary data collected and tested in ETIDI laboratory for three yarn counts
namely 40, 30 and 21 Ne, Maa garment ranks first. The best uster level in the country is 38.8
uster level for 21 Ne belongs to Maa garment. On the other hand, Arbaminch textile ranks last
scoring more than 95 uster level. The level presented here is according to the quality precent
share of the yarn parameters stated in the document. Indeed, it is difficult to conclude which
factory is the best amongst the others as there is no exact relation for comparison for different
counts. It was difficult to find a common yarn count to make comparison among factories and
the rank leveled is as per only the common counts obtained.
From the data collected and analysed, in ring frame line the average rank count produced is
around 24 Ne and it seems that factories are sustaining this count year after year as it was
24.12 Ne, 23.49 Ne, and 24.29 Ne in 2005, 2006 and 2007 E.C respectively. Where as in
open end line, the average yarn count is around 18 Ne and those factopries included in the
study are sustaining this count fron year to year as it was 17.85 Ne, 18.07 Ne, and 18.14 Ne in
the year 2005, 2006 and 2007 E.C respectively. But the PC line annual country wise average
in 2005, 2006 and 2007 E.C is 29.34 Ne, 22.75 Ne and 30.51 Ne respectively.
The study reveals that there is no gratual yarn count fineness improvement in the three years
namely 2005, 2006 and 2007 E.C.
The possible range of counts in the history of the seven (7) factories included in the study in
ring frame line and open end line is 6 to 40 Ne and 7 to 30 Ne counts respectively. Where as
in PC line of ring and open end line, the counts produced was 15 to 60 and 12 to 20 Ne
respectively.
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The raw material that the factories are obtaining is not as bad as it was expected and majority
of the factories were gettiing the raw materials as per their needs. But the yarns produced were
not as per their standard and much too far to achieve.
Even though the data taken is from around 7 factories, making comparison was really difficult
as they did not produce common yarn counts.
9.2. Recommendation
The yarn quality problem is likely happening in production process as most of the factories
were ontaining the raw materials as per their needs, and so quality related issues has to get
solved in the production line.
The data colllected was not full and most factories did not have well organized data that we
have faced during the study. There are little factories having well organized data. The
factories are expected to have the data in hard and soft copy.
Most factories did not have quality plan and making comparison with out the plan was
difficult. So it is appriciated and recommonded to have the plan for further study and for any
thing relate to quality as long as the department existes.
There are factories that tests the qaulity with out conditioning the room and this type of test
does not garrantee the result. It is recommonded to condition the roon at any time.
Some instruments are not working even though they are available in the quality section. As
;ong as quality is becoming the center of excellence now a day, every factory is recoomonded
to test all the parameters and to do so machines which are not working has to work and
machines that are no available but neccessary for the test has to be fulfilled.
Most of the quality instruments are not functional and there is no system of immediate
maintenance for them. So due to this reason most necessary quality parameters are not being
tested. The mills management should give high priority for these instruments to minimize the
amount of faulty products. As long as the result makes diferent, the testing machines need
calibration and care should be taken.
Most of the factories give priority for production quantity because of the local markets. But it
is necessary to give priority for the quality of their product to be globally competitive.
The mills should exercise documentation of results through soft and hard copy formats. It will
help them to generate their monthly and yearly quality reports simply and they can create
database to show their status yearly and with in decades also.
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All the textile mills should test every necessary quality parameters consistently as it is clearly
shown by their quality plan and they should evaluate themselves with their mill standard and
international standards for their day to day betterment.
QAD and production departments should work co-operatively to meet the required quality
product rather than blamming each other.
The mills should implement quality based maintenance.
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