Final - Basic Lasting Technology

COVER PAGE
BASIC LASTING TECHNOLOGY

DEPARTMENT - FOOTWEAR
COURSE: B. DES (FOOTWEAR TECHNOLOGY)

COURSE CODE: B. DES. (FDPM) - BFDTM 305
COMPILED BY: Ajay Sahay, Neeraj
REVIEWED BY: Aritra Das

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PREFACE
The FDDI education system is now focused on developing a top in the line
professionals in order to cater to the human resource demand of the Global "Leather
Industry. This translates that the main objective of FDDI education system is to qualify
its graduates according to the occupational requirements of the industry. FDDI
education delivery system needs to ensure that the graduates from FDDI's professional
education programs acquire a comprehensive set of occupational competences as
defined by the Global Leather Industry.
FDDI's state of the art education system is focused on performance and
demonstration/ provision of evidence of knowledge, skills and attitude to a specific level
of competence in accordance with a Global occupational standards. This concept of
training system demands that the content from the curriculum should be designed in a
more appropriate manner, defining the methods or strategies of learning so that
training programs facilitate an excellent and world class learning environment which
facilitates the students to develop the required competencies.
In this context, the Learners Handbooks are necessity in the learning process.
Learners Handbooks does not only serve as the enabling element but also acts as a
guide to both the facilitator/teacher and the trainee in attaining the defined learning
outcomes of the program. Thus, this manual (Learners Handbook) is prepared to assist
the teachers and the students willing and able to undertake or participate in the
process of training and endeavored to become a successful professional.
This manual is a part of the training manuals prepared for the B.Des (FDPM)
programme. This is prepared to standardize the training in the different campuses of
FDDI.
This training manual is only for the training of students of FDDI and is not for sale.
Features of learner's handbook are:
 Directly related to the curriculum.
 An instructional media that is individualized, self-paced instruction allowing the

trainee to learn and move along independently without much or constant direction,
correction and instruction from the teacher.
 Designed by the teacher to fit local condition and appropriate to intended trainees.
 Designed in a way that addresses the learning for all the learning outcomes within
one learning module.
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
FDDI firmly believes that to attain excellence, it is important that knowledge sharing
shall be carried out with best possible methodology so that quest for knowledge can be
achieved. This is the biggest challenge to the human society and to the institution in
particular as they are the torch bearer for disseminating the knowledge.
This dissemination of knowledge is possible once it's acquired. However, in acquiring

the same we discover a debt to others and thus, it becomes necessary to acknowledge
those people, we know, have directly shaped our lives and our work.
This book has been envisaged with the dream of attaining excellence in delivery of
training by employing best practices in the field of knowledge sharing and is the next
logical step in the augmentation of the knowledge domain. It focuses on
standardization of learning material, training delivery, assessment system and
validation system so that knowledge reaches with same light and equal opportunity of
learning is available to all.
The preparation of training material is a team work. Shri Sharad Srivastava has made
major contribution by providing concept of learning material and teachers guide for
standardization. He also prepared sample and demonstrated to all faculties for clarity.
The main Contributors are Mr. A.K. Sharma, Mr. V.K. Khanna, Ms. Satyam Srivastava,
Mr. Laxman Panwar, Mr. Suman Banerjee, Ms. Krishi Sarin, and Mr. Dharmendra
Jaiswal for motivation, guidance, and coordination involved in preparation of learning
material and implementation. Shri V.B Parvatikar has provided its leadership in this
endeavour.
FDDI wishes to acknowledge hard work of Mr. Ajay Sahay & Mr. Neeraj who compiled
this training manual.
FDDI also acknowledge Mr. Ashish Kumar, Manager (RCIP), Mr. Sanjay Kamle, Asstt.
Manager (RCIP) and Mr. Ashish Chandra for further coordination, formatting and
documentation control.
There are many individuals, whose names may not appear on this page, but their
contribution had been immense as far as development and putting the potential of their
professional knowledge in this learning material is concerned. FDDI hope that this
document will help immensely to the students and teachers alike in understanding of
the subject in more comprehensive way and will thus help them in acquiring various
skills at different levels that would lead to have an army of skilled manpower in the
country and boost the economy. It is the reader who provides us the inputs for further
improvement. The management of FDDI welcomes all the suggestions for further
improvement of this learning material.
Raajeev j Lakhara, IRS

Managing Director, FDDI
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List of Team Members
Domain: Footwear
Sub Department:
Learning Material Title : Basic Lasting Technology
Subject Code: BFDTM 305
Semester: 03
Course: B. Design (FDPM)
A. Executive Board:
1. Mr. Raajeev j Lakhara, IRS Managing Director
2. Mr. Ajay Kumar, IRS Secretary
3. Mr. Sameer Kumar Srivastava, IRS Sr. Executive Director
4. Mr. Amit Kumar Sharma, IRS Executive Director
5. Mrs. S. Parimala, IPS Executive Director
B. Project Advisor:
1. Mr. V.B. Parvatikar Advisor
C. Head of Department:
1.
D. Compiled by :
1. Mr. Ajay Sahay Jr. Consultant-FT
2. Mr. Neeraj
3.
E. Review & Editing:
1. Mr. Aritra Das Sr. Consultant-Domestic
Projects
2.
F. Documentation Control Team
1. Mr. Ashish Chandra Faculty-FT
2.
3.
4.
G. Publication Design Team
1. Mr. Ashish Kumar Manager (RCIP)
2. Mr. Sanjay Kamle Asstt. Manager (RCIP)
NOTE: This learning book is compilation of the information from books, journals,
website & other research materials. Apart from the other resources for the students, it's
a learning tool meant for the internal circulation only. It's not for sale & does not have
any commercial value. The material is for your own exclusive use. You may not hire
out, lend, give, sell, any part of it. You must take care of your material to ensure it is not
used or copied by anyone at any time. Legal action will be taken if these terms are
infringed. In addition, we may seek to take disciplinary action against you. These
conditions remain in force after you have finished the course.
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We are always happy to receive feedback from students, particularly details of any
errors, contradictions or unclear statements in the courses. If you have any comments
on this course please email them to:
manoj.a@fddiindia.com & ashish.chandra@fddiindia.com
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CONTENTS
Unit 1- Introduction, lasting principles and pre training exercise

 Information sheet 1 – Fundamentals & concepts of lasting (Page no. 10)
 Information sheet 2 – Drafting Process (Page no. 30)
 Self assessment 1 (Page no. 33)
Unit 2 – Types of lasting
 Information sheet 1 – Types and methods of lasting (Page no. 35)

 Information sheet 2 – Shoe making process (Page no. 39)
Unit 3 – Upper preparation and method of insole attachment and

uses of tools
 Information sheet 1 – Different types of tools used in lasting (Page no. 47)
 Information sheet 2 – Upper preparation and insole attachment (Page no. 50)
 Information sheet 3 – OHS practices relevant to different material & process
(Page no. 55)
Unit 4 – Hand lasting
 Information sheet 1 – Process of hand lasting (page no. 63)

 Self assessment 4 (page no. 74)
Unit 5 – Heat setting and wrinkle chasing
 Information sheet 1 – Heat Setting and wrinkle chasing (page no. 76)
Unit 6 – Roughing, scouring and sole attachment. Practical for full

shoe making by hand lasting
 Information sheet 1 – Roughing, scouring & sole attachment (page no. 85)
 Information sheet 2 – Final inspection of complete footwear (page no. 101)
 Information sheet 3 – Quality monitoring & inspection (page no. 110)
 Information sheet 4 – Planning in hand lasting department (page no. 118)
 Information sheet 5 – House keeping (page no. 125)
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Assignment (page no. 132)
Further reading (page no. 134)
Bibliography (page no. 135)
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Unit 1
INTRODUCTION-
(LASTING PRINCIPLES AND PRE
TRAINNG EXERCISE)
• Understand the fundamentals of lasting

• Understand the concepts of lasting
• To understand the drafting process
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Information Sheet- 1 Fundamental and concepts of lasting
1.1 Concepts of lasting
The module mainly deals with the different aspects of hand lasting of footwear upper.
The block comprises of a single unit. The unit describes the different types of last used
in the footwear industry; this is the core area of the whole shoe making process. It then
describes the other different components used in the lasting department on the upper
in the shoe making process. It also gives an insight into the different constructions
employed to last an upper. It gives stress on the hand lasting of the footwear upper,
various tools required to last therein and the main hand lasting drafting pulls required to
mould the upper as per the shape of the last.
Lasting is a term related to the process involved in stretching (in some areas by
compressing) the upper material over the last and securing it. The upper will conform to
the contours of the last and when, the last is removed, upper retains much of the shape.
There are many variations in the way which footwear can be made from the Lasting point
of view. These are known as lasting constructions.
The types of constructions used will often depend upon what the finished shoe is used for
so each will demand different considerations. The methods can be divided into two
groups: -
Direct attachment- it is when the soles are attached directly to the lasted upper.
Fig 1 – Direct construction
Example: - includes Cemented (Stuck-on) Constructions, Direct Molded Constructions,

etc.
Indirect attachment- it is when the soles are attached to the welt or runner or any other
intermediate component which are already being attached to the lasted upper.
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Fig 2 – indirect construction
Example:- includes Good year Welted Construction, Veldt Schoen Construction, etc.
Generally, the lasting department is divided into three sections:
a. ASSEMBLY: - collection of different component of shoe parts for lasting operations.
b. LASTING: - is stretching (in some areas by compressing) the upper material over the
last and securing it. It includes toe (fore part ) lasting ,side and seat lasting ,heat seating
c. BOTTOMING: - preparation of the bottom parts of shoe. It includes insole preparation,

sole attaching, and sole pressing
A shoe almost always has to be made on a last to achieve a shape to give the
necessary comfort and fit. Lasting is the process of stretching, the upper over the last
and securing it to the insole, runner etc., so that the upper conforms to the last contours.
The areas of the last which present the greatest difficulties in lasting are mostly in those
where the major shape changes occur, to facilitate shape retention it is essential to apply
correct strains at certain major points.
The amount and direction of strains must be suitable to both material and the design of
the upper to help to produce good shape retention throughout the life of the shoe. Shoes
must be lasted to match in pairs so that the design of the uppers is correctly matched. It
is important that the back height will be according to specification; otherwise if the back
is too high, the shoe will rub the heel, if too low the shoe may not fit the foot as desired.
The top line of every shoe must be reasonably tight. It is essential during lasting that the
top line is pulled somewhat tight to maintain correctly the balanced top lines. If the initial
stretch is not taken out of the upper, the top line becomes loose, resulting in poorly fitting
shoes. The top line must also be correctly balanced, i.e. the outside quarter 2-3mm
below the height of the inside quarter, the reason for this being the difference in the
anklebone height, or according to the specification.
Traditional hand lasting involves the use of twelve basic drafting strains, which make the
upper conform to the shape of the last. The order in which these lasting strains are taken
can vary to suit the individual situation, and the laster may modify the order, to make
sure that the upper is lasted properly. For example, if the upper is tending to the swing to
the outside then the laster will remedy this by pulling the upper from the inside first, in
other words, the lasted will:
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 Ensure that the upper conforms to the shape of the last
 Ensure that the upper is positioned centrally on the last
 Take care that the upper components are falling on the proper places on the last as
specified by the designer.
 Make sure that the upper is free from undesired wrinkles
From lasting point of view the main materials that used for shoe making process are:-
A. uppers
B. insoles
C. soles
D. toe-puff
E. counter stiffeners
F. nails and tacks
G. adhesives
H. solvent
1.1.1 SHOE LAST

Most shoes are made to a last. The last is a foot model with dimensions and shape
similar to the anatomical foot but sufficiently different to be exact. Shoe fit and to some
extent the last influences its durability.
"The close relationship between a man and the shoe maker was based on the shared
secret of the client's measurements. The statistics of clients were never disclosed."
Traditionally before mass production, the original shoemaker started the process by
taking a footprint outline of the sole. He whittled or chiseled a wooden last from the
print. A last (‗least‘, Old English meaning footprint) was traditionally made from wood
but are now available in metal or plastic. They are complex structures made from
many measurements (statistically determined). Lasts are not the same size and
dimensions of the anatomical foot but instead an abstract form with specific functions. It
is usually deeper in the mid foot region, has a sharp 'feather edge' where the upper
surface meets the sole, it is clipped in along the topline (around the ankle) and is flared
over and extended in the toe region. This provides shape, which applies appropriate
tension when the shoe distorts to contain the loaded foot. Lasts provides a working surface
on which flat leather components can be given plastic form. The physical dimensions
accommodate the foot during activity and the last contains contemporary fashion and
styles such as toe shape. To allow the last to be removed from the shoe they are often
hinged around the instep. Shoe lasts are not made to resemble feet but instead to suit
the shoe manufacture. Modern lasts are totally unlike the foot with the sole of the last,
flat in order to assist in manufacture.
Generally shoe last is the most important tool of shoe manufacturing process.
Material used in Last manufacturing:
1. Classification of shoe last based on the nature of material of which it is made

from is given below:
a. Wooden last
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Last manufactured from seasoned wood was earlier widely used for shoe making
purpose. Due to the low life span and non availability of seasoned wood the same has
been replaced by synthetic material. However, till date the designers worldwide prefer
to use wooden last for designing of shoe (Fig: 1).
Fig 3 - A wooden Block last
b. Plastic last
Modern day shoe lasts are made of high density polyethene (HDPE) that are 100%
recyclable. The advantage of plastic shoe last is its durability and dimensional stability.
Fig 4 - Plastic last
c. Metal last
In shoe making where the lasts are subjected to be exposed to extreme heat and
pressure (e.g. DMS, DVP and DIP construction), aluminum last are best to be used.
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Fig 5 - Metal block last
2. The shoe lasts are further classified based on the Hinge and the Bottom plate
used as per the user specification.
Classification based on hinge used:
a. Standard connectional Hinged Last:
This type of hinge is used in most of the last used for manufacturing closed footwear.
However it is difficult to mount a moccasin upper on this last where extreme stress
causes damage of top line.
Fig 6 - Standard Connectional Hinged last
b. Telescopic last: Suitable for all types of footwear (fig: 7).
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Fig 7 - Telescopic last
c. Reverse hinged last:
Generally used in last for mounting in the injection molding machine (Fig: 6).
Fig 8 - Reverse hinged last
3. Classification based on bottom plate:
The steel plate used on the last bottom for the following reason
a. To prevent damage of the feather edge of the last

b. To help clenching of lasting tacks on the insole.
The plating is generally done by the last based on the shoe manufactures demand which
is as follows:
a. Last without plate:
Lasts without bottom plate is popularly used by sports shoe manufacturing and sandal
manufacturing where tack lasting is prohibited.
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Fig 9 - Last without bottom plate
b. Heel plated last
Heel plated last is used for all the closed shoe manufacturing where tacks are used for
attaching the lasting margin with the insole
Fig 10 - Heel plated last
c. Heel and waist plated last
Fig 11 - Heel and waist plated last

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d. Heel Shank and Toe plated last
Fig12 - Heel Shank and Toe plated last
e. Full bottom plated last
Fig13 - Fully plated last
1.1.2 Parts of shoe last
Figure 14 showing the main parts of a Shoe Last
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Fig14 - Main parts of shoe last
Each "shoe last‖ is designed for a particular heel height, toe shape, and type of footwear.
Many styles of shoes can be made on the same shoe last, but the toe shape and heel
height will be the same for each pair made on that shoe last. If you want to have shoes
with different toe shapes, then it is necessary to create more than one design of shoe
lasts. A proper fitting pair of shoe lasts is a fixed investment, and the first step towards
creating proper fitting and fashionable footwear.
For example the figure show below describes three types of shoe made on the same
last (Fig: 13).
Fig15 - Different styles of can be made on the same “Shoe Last”
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UPPER
Lasting involves forming the upper by stretching it over the last. For foot comfort the upper
must conform to the shape of the last and retain much of it. Also the shoe upper after a
period of wear must also conform to the shape of the foot.
Fig16 - A shoe upper
To last the upper well we should use the minimum strain necessary to make the upper
conform to the last. By stretching too tight we may cause upper cracks and inadequate
shape retention of the shoe. For quality and productivity it is important to skillfully design
and maintain the whole production process from material selection to pattern
engineering, cutting, closing and lasting.
INSOLES
The insole is the foundation of the shoe to which anchor the upper, heel and outsole. No
matter how light a substance the fashion may demand, it is the basic component on which
the whole shoe is built. Insoles therefore have a strong bearing on wear, comfort; shape
retention, foot health and appearance. Leather is still an important insole material,
particularly in men's high grade shoes, but in women's fashion shoes, where lightness
and flexibility are most important, man-made insoles are in great but is used because of
their suitability for the purpose, having been made to meet specific demands. This is the
inner sole of the shoe, which is next to the foot under the shoe sock. And also it is the
back bone of the shoe to which upper is attached and helps to the foot to absorbs the
moistures and socks, thus reducing the bacterial attack. Insole may be made all in one
piece or alternatively in two pieces. When an insole is made from the two pieces it is
known as the Blended insole.
Types of insoles
The different types of insoles are made according to the construction of the footwear. They
are:
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a) Continental insole
b) Blended Insole
c) Half Insole (Backer Board with steel shank)
d) Half insole of a backer board and the insole board sandwiched together
e) Ribbed Insole
f) Skeleton insole
g) Polypropylene Injected Insole
SOLES
It is the layer of the material which covers the bottom of the shoe and is the walking
surface of that shoe. Generally the key parts of sole includes: -
a) Midsole
b) Out sole
c) Heel
d) Welt
Midsole
It is the Intermediate sole between outsole and upper and it helps to Increases shock
absorption & adds comfort to the shoe. Commonly midsole is Used in sandals and
some safety and sports footwear types. Midsoles are also used in case of some
stitched constructions.
Heel
Heel is the raised component at the bottom of the shoe (in the rear part) that Provides
elevation to the shoe for proper walking. It has the following properties:
 Strength
 Durability
 Abrasion resistance
Fig 17 - Wooden Heel
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Welt
Welt is other key part in shoe bottom which is a decorative strip of leather or other
material attached to the outsole. A welt can be decorative as well as functional in
nature.
Welt
Fig 18 - Welt
Outsole
Out sole is the Bottom-most part and Walking surface of shoe having following
properties:
 Anti-skid
 Abrasion resistance
 Flexibility
Types of sole/out sole
The sole made of a diversity of material, i.e. leather, pure rubber, resin rubber
compound, plastic etc. based on this different types of sole are used in footwear industry
,but the common types of sole are:-
 Leather
 Poly-urethane (PU)
 Poly vinyl chloride (PVC)
 Thermo-plastic rubber (TPR)
 Rubber (Vulcanized, resin)
 Ethyl vinyl acetate (EVA), Phylon
TOE PUFFS
The function of the toe puff is basically to provide shape to the forepart of the shoe, and in
certain case, in the industrial boots, to give protection to the foot of the wearer. It is the
mean by which the shape of the last forepart is reproduced in the finished shoe, and thus
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plays an important part in the appearance and the general performance of the majority of
the footwear types. The choice of the toe puff for any given footwear type is influenced by
many factors of the last shape, upper material type, production methods to be used,
fashion and the views of individual customers; all must be considered before a decision
can be reached. The toe puff must be skived at the edge which is falling on the flexing
position of the shoe. The skiving must be tapered to ―0‖ and the width of 7-8mm.
Types of toe puff
The basic types of toe puff are used by the footwear industry are: -
a. Paint on liquids - This is mostly done for the Veldt Schoen sandals. For this purpose,
a light puff is adequate and shellac or a celluloid solution is painted. In this case there are
problems of contamination of the upper and the adhesion to the last.
b. Print on Hot-Melt Resin - This is a further development of the paint on liquid type, in
which the solvent has been eliminated. Three types have been developed.
 The Tm-line process of the BUSM Co. uses a polyamide resin in the rod form, which is
extruded, melted, and injected into a mold cavity adjacent to the flesh side of the
leather.
 The transfer sheet method of the print a puff method of Vik supplies is the best
known, incorporates a thermoplastic polyamide resin cast on the release paper, on
contact with a heated die-in the shape of the required toe-puff the resin is melted and
transferred to the upper.
 In a method developed by Sigma in Italy, a thermoplastic resin is injected into the mold
in the shape of the toe puff, and automatically applied to the upper before it sets. In
this application, the dangers of insufficient fusing or inadequate activation of the
adhesive surface are overcome because an evenly coated plastic film is formed on the
surface of the upper.
c. Impregnated Fabrics - The fabric used to make these types of toe puffs are the
woven, non-woven, needle punched and stitched bounded. The toe puffs are in two
forms. The first type is the thermo-plastic toe puff which can be softened by heat and
rendered sufficiently extensible and malleable to accept pulling over the lasting
operations. The second type is the solvent activated , in which the toe - puff is rendered
soft and extensible in the factory by being treated with solvent dipping or conditioning
machine, again to make it receptive to shoe making operations.
d. Thermoplastic (heat activated) -Adhesive coated heat-activated puffs are based on
EVA, Neoprene, Polyurethane, or gutta-perche. Resin or plasticizer is added to impart
the required adhesive properties.
e. Solvent activated - These puffs are impregnated with either nitrocellulose or
polystyrene resin. The solvent blend should contain toluene, which dissolves the resin
easily..
f. Extruded Filmic (heat activated) - Filmic puffs are a further development of the
celluloid impregnated puff, are made from such polymers as ABS (Acrylonitrile butadiene
styrene (ABS) is a terpolymer made by polymerizing styrene and acrylonitrile in the
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presence of polybutadiene.), Surlyn A and EVA. All filmic puffs developed recently are
thermoplastic, having a heat sensitive adhesive in the bonding press in the same way as
the impregnated types are activated. Some filmic puffs can compress and thereby
absorb the creasing action of the upper.
g. Pre molded steel toe cap: This type of toe cap is used in safety footwear where the
toe cap is made of steel capable to withstand impact at least 200 joule and compression
up to 15000 N. Although traditionally made of steel (fig: 17), the reinforcement can also
be made of a composite material, a plastic such as thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU).
Fig 19 - Steel toe cap for safety footwear
COUNTER STIFFENER
A stiff material similar to that of the toe puff which may be molded to the shape of the last
back part or, alternatively, inserted flat and molded during the subsequent process. It is
normally inserted between the lining and the upper to support the back of the shoe and
grip the foot. Apart from the material used which is similar to that used for toe-puff except
for the thickness, leather board can also be used.
Types of counter stiffener
The three types of stiffeners are flat stiffener, Semi-molded stiffener and the Fully-
molded Stiffener.
a. Flat stiffener
b. Semi –molded stiffener
c. Fully- molded stiffener
Material for the counter stiffeners which are commonly used in the industries are:
a. Thermoplastic
b. Solvent activated
c. Leather board
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The counter stiffener is also skived like toe-puff to avoid any impression visible on the
upper material.
1.1.3 NAILS, TACKS AND STAPLES
There are many types of tacks and nails used in the manufacture of shoes
designed to suit numerous lasting and assembling operations. Machine tacks with
special finishes to enable trouble free running in machines are produced in various
lengths to suit the material being used.
Types of nails and tacks
(A) (B)
Square machine tacks Round machine tack

(C) (D)
Hand tack Heel building nail

(E) (F)
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Screw eclipse nail Buttress heel attaching nail.
(G) (H)
Rubber heel nail Lightning nail

(I)
Temporary attaching nail
Fig 20 -Different types of nails
Use of nails and tacks

The nine tacks and nails illustrated are made for the following operations: -
a) Used for seat, side and toe lasting

b) A general-purpose tack used for hand lasting sandals and repair works
c) Building leather heel and heel attaching
d) The inside attachment of wooden heel
e) The inside attachment of plastic heels
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f) The outside attachment of rubber heels
g) The outside attachment of leather built heels
While deciding on the length of the tack required for lasting purposes, it is generally
accepted that the tack is 1m.m longer than the thickness of material or materials it has to
penetrate, to allow clenching. The tack or nail clenches when it hits the last bottom plate.
When uppers are lasted, the tacks penetrate the insole and must be turned over
(clenched) so as not to stick into the foot.
Clenching
Fig 21 – Nail clenching
Hand lasting tacks vs. machine lasting tacks

Hand lasting tacks are much sharper than machine tacks and have a much rougher
finish to help penetration while hand lasting.
Machine lasing tacks Hand lasting tacks
Fig 22 - Machine and Hand lasting tacks
A hand tack has to be pushed by hand into the material before being driven home, a
rough sharp tack gives a temporary hold into the material, whereas a smooth machine
tack would not hold. A smooth finish is given to machine lasting tacks to enable the
tack to run easily in the machines. Special points and spirals are put onto heel nails to
ensure correct penetration and grip during wear.
Staples
There are numerous ways of attaching heels whether they are wood, plastic or leather.
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The heels may be attached by an ordinary staple, a specially designed nail or an
ultrasonic staple Staples are used for various shoe making operations like:-
 Insole attaching
 Side lasting for stitch down or welted footwear
 Heel attaching in leather sole with knock on heels
Generally there are two types of staples are used, they are
a) Pre-formed staples
b) Wire staples
Preformed staples are used for insole attaching or heel attaching in case of knock on
heels. A driver fitted in to the machine drives the staples. In most cases the staplers
are pneumatically driven.
Fig 23 - Pneumatic stapler
Wire staples Wire staples are used while side lasting of welted footwear or Stitch
down lasting. The wire from a coil cut in a certain length by the lasting machine
subsequently it takes the shape of a staple pin by an in built bending mechanism
before being driven into the lasting margin.
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A. B. C.
Convergent Divergent Twist
Fig 24 - Wire staple types
1.1.4 ADHESIVES
When two surfaces are joined with the help of chemical material is called an adhesive
and the process of thus joining is known as adhesion. Application of the adhesives on
the bottom part is most vital as it stuck the both surfaces to make it as a complete
shoe. The adhesives can be applied by hand brush or by a pressure extruder brush or
by a roller type machine. A thin layer (low viscosity) of adhesive must be applied as a
prime coat to facilitate the easy penetration of adhesive into the fiber structure of
upper. Then a second coat is applied. Application of two coats of adhesive is always
advisable. While in case of P.U. & P.V.C. unit soles a thin layer of single coat only is
applied. More adhesive layer in the unit sole may cause depletion of the bondage.
Drying of the adhesives applied on the upper and sole completely is a must because
evaporation of solvent from the joining part is vital for correct attachment. Shoes are
kept on open make total evaporation of the solvents. Heating cabinet‘s conveyer with
heater or tunnel heater is also used for this purpose.
Types of Adhesives:
1. Natural Rubber / Latex Adhesive

It is a combination of 60% concentrated latex mixed with solution of ammonia in water
and also it is Milky white, sensitive to pressure, heat, grease, oil, and plasticizer.
It is used for laminating, folding, fitting, outsole channel closing of welted constructions,
outsole attachment to the upper where the sole is stitched to the upper, top line
binding, upper to the lining attachment. Unsuitable for oil leather and loose fiber
leathers could cause shrinkage and wrinkles.
2. Rubber Solution
It is prepared by milling latex together with the compounded rubber and dissolving in
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solvent like CCl4 or benzene or gasoline. It has the following characteristics:
 It is usually amber colored, giving off a pungent color.

 It has poor heat resistance & sensitive to oil & grease.
 It is used for temporary bonding for edge folding, upper to lining attachment and
sock lining attachment to insole.
 Used for laminating, folding, fitting.
 Inflammable and toxic in nature.
 Not easy to remove if spilled and creates stains
3. Poly-chloroprene Adhesives (Neoprene)

These adhesives are produced by dissolving the base polymers in organic solvents.
Neoprene is a polymer of 2 – Chloro Butadiene as a main constituent. They have low
viscosity and good wetting properties. It is product of Du – Pont. Pressure sensitive
when dry, Poor resistance to plasticizer (PVC), Good Water resistance. Film flexibility,
high bond strength, easy handling, application through a brush or spray, resistant to
deterioration caused by chemicals, oils and heat. Readily crystallizes even at room
temperature, possess high polarity, dissolve in a no. of solvents, can control tack
retention time. Commonly Poly-chloroprene Adhesives Uses for:-
a. Permanent Stick (need not to be stitched), Attachment of upper components & lining
components
b. Attachment of upper with insole, Side Lasting. And its Melting Temperature is 70 to
800C
4. Polyurethane Adhesives (PU)

These are produced when a di-isocyanides having two isocyanides groups is reacted
with a di-ol having two hydroxyl groups.
Main characteristics
a. High resistance to PVC plasticizer, oil, grease, heat.
b. Strong Adhesive bond, highly reactive, good wetting & penetrating properties.
Commonly Polyurethane Adhesives Uses for shoe uppers, shoe soles, adhesives and
shoes finishes. And Its Melting Temperature is 80 to 900C
5. Hot melt Adhesives

These solvent less adhesives are based on thermoplastic materials. A thermoplastic is
a polymer that turns to liquid when heated and freezes to a solid upon cooling. The
Bonding process of hot-melt adhesive is heated and applied in its liquid state with the
aid of glue guns or nozzles and the bonding is obtained in few seconds by cooling.
These are applied in molten state and on cooling form a rigid, strong bond. It can be
both reactive and non-reactive. It does not contain solvent or dispersant.
Commonly hot melt Adhesives are:
a. Used for Permanent / temporary bonding or attachment of lining to uppers, top line
folding formation, lasted upper is stitched to the insole, insole rib or outsole depending
on the shoe construction.
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b. Used for attachment of uppers to the insole in Toe lasing, side & seat lasting
operation.
c. Used for sole attachment with lasted uppers. Used in thermo-folding machine
Its Melting Temperature is:-
1. Polyester Adhesive - 210 to 2300C, Superior wear & physical properties

2. Polyamide Adhesive - 180 to 2100C, Very good flexibility
Properties of Shoe Trade Adhesives

Generally the main characteristics of shoe trade adhesives are:-
 High Cohesive Strength and bond with wide range of shoe materials.
 High resistance to Creep up to 600 C.
 Grease, plasticizers, perspiration, water or other substances to which it might
normally be exposed should not reduce bond strength.
 High resistance to aging.
 High flexibility and high resistance to flex cracking.
 Easily applied by hand or machines.
 Controllable viscosity and good wetting and penetrating properties.
 High enough solid content so that only one coat is needed, even on very porous
materials.
 Controllable drying rate to suit work organization.
 Green strength should suit the process.
 Should be non-inflammable and non-toxic to avoid the need for extraction
equipment.
 Excess or spilled adhesive should be easily removed from visible parts of the shoe
leaving no marks or stain on upper.
 Should be economical.
 Long shelf & pot life. Not too sensitive to change in temperature
 Long tack life for maximum versatility in work organization.
 No shrinkage on drying or the material may wrinkle or bonds may shears.
Adhesive Selection
The selection of adhesives for the application of the shoe making process is based on
the following main criteria that are:-
a. Strength: The adhesive must create a bond, sole attaching adhesive must keep the
sole well bonded to the upper during the wear and should have sufficient heat
resistance
b. Suitability for use with shoe materials: The adhesive must be compatible with all
the materials in the shoe. The neoprene adhesive will not bond well to leather with high
fat content (Oil Leathers)
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c. Suitability for use in shoe processes: The adhesive should meet manufacturing
requirements. E.g. Tackiness not required for socking and stiffener adhesives. Quick
tack required for folding cement.
d. Shelf and Pot life: Adhesives should preferably have a long shelf life (Before
opening time) & Pot life (After Opening time).
e. General condition:
 Safety - Adhesives should preferably be non-toxic and non-inflammable, vapor

harmful to inhalation, skin protection.
 Adhesives should not shrink or contract on drying
 Adhesives does not cause discoloration or spoil the surface finish of the upper.
 Adhesives should not affect the upper materials.
 Adhesives should be easy to remove if necessary.
 Ease & Rapid Application – Hand Brush, Machines, Rollers, Spray Gun
 Drying Time – Quick or minimum
 Storage – ability to withstand temp. variation condition
 Resistance to moisture and water.
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Information Sheet-2 Drafting process
2.1 Drafting Process
Drafting is a process by which the upper attached with toe-puff and counter stiffener is
placed on last and fixed on it with help of twelve tacks at designated place to see
whether after lasting the upper will be sitting properly on the last after complete lasting
process. If the drafting is not correct it must be rectified before doing the complete
lasting to get proper lasting. We then place the upper on the last and proceed with the
‗pulling over pulls‘. By using of lasting pincers the ―First Drafting Pull‖ is made. For
each of the pulls in the first part of the operation we call it a draft. The drafts are made
in numerical order and in the direction indicated in the diagrams
Fig 25 - Drafting process
The first drafting pull is along the length of the last, positions the upper and is
creating some tension on the top line. The toe end is then secured to the insole
by a tack. After the first pull check the alignment of the shoe. The upper must be
centrally aligned on the last. The second and third drafting strains position the
front of the shoe. (At this point a careful check is made that the whole upper is
straight). One must check that the toe-puff sits properly on the last.
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Fig 26 – Drafting pull locations
The fourth draft is made to position at the centre of the seat. This pull adjusts the back
height of the shoe. At this point one must check that the back-seam is straight and the
top line is in the correct position.
The fifth and sixth drafting are taken at the front end of the stiffener and often
referred as “Cornering the Counter”. At this stage tension is first put on the
lining to ensure that there are no pleats or creases. This is what we call “clearing
the lining”. The draft is then made with the pincers holding the upper stiffener
and lining. This down ward pull further increases the tension of the upper. After
fifth and sixth pull one must check that the inside top-line must be 2-3mm higher
than the outside top-line.
The seventh and eighth drafting strains are just behind the joint position and have the
function to pull somewhat forward, so that there is no surplus material in the waist.
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After the seventh and the eight drafting pull one must check that the upper is sitting
properly in the vamp area.
The ninth and tenth drafting strains are taken halfway down the forepart to ensure that
the vamp is properly stretched down to the last.
The final drafting strains eleventh and twelfth are taken in the waist and a firm pull is
required to ensure that the upper is pulled down right to the last.
Once the drafting is complete and the shape of the drafted upper is as per the
requirements then proceed for lasting.
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Self-Assessment – 1
Directions: Answer all the questions listed below. Illustrations may be necessary to
add some explanations/answers.
Section 1. Fill in the blanks 05 Points
1. In direct attachment the _________ is directly attached to the upper.
2. The _______ is a foot model with dimensions and shape similar to the anatomical
foot.
3. _________ is the layer of the material which covers the bottom of the shoe and is the
walking surface of that shoe.
4. __________ are the Intermediate sole between outsole and upper and it helps to
Increases shock absorption & add comfort to the shoe.
5. The function of the ___________ is basically to give shape.
Section 2. Short Answers 18 Points
Q1. What is lasting?

Q2. What is direct and indirect construction?
Q3. What are the different materials and components used for lasting?
Q4. What are the different materials used for making last?
Q5. What are sole and what are their key parts?
Q6. What are the different types of insole used in footwear?
Q7. What are the different materials used for making sole?
Q8. What characteristics a shoe trade adhesive must have?
Q9. Show with help of a diagram of various drafting pulls?
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Unit 2
TYPES OF LASTING
• To introduce the types of lasting and methods

• To learn the lasting down methods and making
process
• To learn how to produce footwear
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Information Sheet- 1 Types and methods of lasting
1.1 Types and methods of lasting
Lasting is the term of the process involved in stretching the upper material over
the last and securing it the bottom of the last where insole is attached. The upper
can be secured with tacks or cement. The upper will conform itself to the
counters of the last and will retain the shape when the last is removed.
Method of lasting: The methods of the lasting can be broadly defined as
1. Lasting down
2. Lasting Up
3. Forced lasting
4. String lasting
1. Lasting Down: In lasting down method the upper is pulled down over the last and
attached to the insole.
Fig 1 - Lasting down method

Some examples of lasting down method are stuck-on, Goodyear welted, rib lasting etc.
2. Lasting up: In lasting up method the upper is pulled up over the last from
underneath and the upper is stitched on the top of the last.
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Four major steps are as follows
Lasting Up a Moccasin
Trimming excess vamp material
Lasting Up a Moccasin by securing by tacks
Attaching Plug (Apron) by tacks, then stitching
Fig 2 - Lasting up method
Example of lasting up method is moccasins.

3. Forced lasting: In force lasting the last is forced in uppers which are tubular in
nature the toe area. In these uppers toe lasting is not done. To give the shape in the
fore part the upper is pre-formed or moulded before force lasting.
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Fig 3 - Force Lasting
Examples of force lasting methods are moccasins, Strobled Construction, California

construction.
4. String lasting: A very old process for making light shoes which has been revived in
recent years for conventional walking and casual shoes. It features a special heavy
gauge drawstring sewn by over locking sewing machine round the margin of the flat
upper. The upper and an insole are placed over the last, which is mounted on a jack
post, and the operator hauls the upper closely to the last by pulling on the ends of the
drawstring.
String lasted shoe with Direct String inside „tunnel‟ formed by

moulded bottom Over lock stitch, upper then Pulled
over the Last .
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D-1c Methods of string lasting pulls
Fig 4 – String lasting method
The process is additionally interesting for today's conditions because the last
used can be the moulding last of an injection moulding machine, allowing the
sole to be moulded-on without transferring the work to another operator. This
method of lasting has been gaining popularity in the recent years as it replaces
the actual lasting operations.
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Information Sheet 2 Shoe making process
2.1 Shoe making process:

There are many ways to attach the sole to the upper but commercially only a few
methods are preferred. Shoes were traditionally made by molding leather to a wooden
last. Modern technology has introduced many new materials and mechanized much of
the manufacture.
Shoe making activity passes through different operation. The flowchart below shows
the basic steps in construction of shoe in the order in which they are carried out in the
shoe factory.
Select Design
Select Last
Select Mould as per Last and Sole
Design and Cut Pattern
Make Sample Shoe

No
Is sample OK?
Yes
Grading of Patterns
Tooling and Pattern Cutting Making
Cutting Bottom Component
Lasting Finishing and

Closing
Packing
Fig 5 - Shoe making process
The following diagram shows the details of sequences of flow of activities in

each department in construction of shoe.
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Pattern
Cutting Inspection
Making
Stitching Stamping Skiving
Upper Ready Lasting Dept Toe Puffing
Side & Seat Counter

Toe Lasting
Lasting Moulding
Heat Setting Roughing Sole Pasting
Finishing De-Lasting Chilling
Packing
Fig 6 – Flow diagram of making complete footwear
2.1.1 Core processes in manufacturing:
Manufacturing in this industry involves the use of a range of handcraft tools and semi
automated equipment. Operatives normally work to a pattern supplied by the design
team to complete the different stages of production. The core functions in production
are cutting, stitching/ closing, lasting and finishing. In the case of most major footwear
manufacturers, operatives specialize in one particular stage. In some companies,
especially leather goods, they may work on the entire process from start to finish.
1. Cutting – Cutting, also known as ‗clicking‘, involves trimming and shaping leather or
fabric sections for the upper, marking sections to indicate where to put stitches and
working around flaws in the raw material that may spoil the finished product
appearance. Clicking is carried out to cut different components of footwear upper or
leather goods as per the approved design or size. While clicking, it is essential to click
the right component from the right area of the leather. Defective portion of leather
should be carefully clicked so that the defective portion does not spoil the appearance
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of the finished product. Lining material is also clicked in this section. Clicking can be
carried out mechanically using clicking press and also manually using clicking knives. It
is the most important process in garment manufacturing. This is a very skilled job
because leather is expensive hence waste must be kept to a minimum.
Fig 7 Left - Clicking room in an organization where as right side is hand

cutting
After cutting, certain additional activities may be undertaken. These include skiving
(reducing the thickness of a certain edge of leather with the help of skiving machine /
skiving knife to allow seams to be produced without the bulkiness), punching and eye-
letting either by machine or by hand tools (in the case of footwear mainly to punch
holes and to fix eyelets for inserting shoe laces and in the case of leather goods for
decoration purpose) and perforating (to give the finished article a pleasing look as well
as cover certain defects).
Fig 8 - Skiving and perforating operation
2. Closing – Closing involves putting together all the different components to complete
the ‗upper‘ section. Closing is done by stitching by using mainly a semi-automated
sewing machine, and pasting. In few cases of specially designed articles, closing is
carried out only by pasting.
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Fig 9 closing line – Stitching of upper process
Pasting is generally done with synthetic adhesives. Various edge treatments are also
done to the leather to produce a more attractive look. In the case of footwear, at this
stage the eyelets are inserted to accommodate the laces in the finished shoes. Closing
is considered to be the most complicated process in the manufacture of leather gloves
and needs to be carried out as efficiently as possible.
3. Preparation of bottom stock components: While the upper is being fitted and
assembled, other parts of the shoe are being prepared in the stock cutting department.
These parts include insoles and outsoles; welting; counter stiffener – which are
moulded to the shape of the last and which reinforce the shoe, preserve its shape and
serve as protection for the foot; heels, toe puffs, both hard and soft – preserve the
shape of the toe of the shoe during wear. Steel toes are used in the production of work
shoes and boots.
Fig 10 - Sole manufacturing process
4. Lasting – This operation is carried out only for footwear. In this operation two-
dimensional leather is given a three dimensional shape to fit the foot and to retain this
shape for rest of life of the shoe. This stage is known as ‗lasting‘ because operatives
mould and shape the uppers into the finished form on a wooden or metal pattern called
a 'last'. Thereafter the soles are attached either by stitching, or with adhesive. Soles
can also be directly attached to the upper either by injection molding or by direct
molding processes.
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Fig 11 - Lasting process
5. Finishing – This is the most critical stage of footwear production as it covers the
defects that might have occurred during the production process. In this stage heels are
attached and the soles and heels are trimmed to shape, the sole, heel and edges
stained and the shoe is waxed and buffed. The quality of the products is checked at all
stages of production and also before they are packaged and boxed ready for
distribution.
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Fig 12 - Finishing process
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Self-Assessment - 2
add some explanations/answers
1. In lasting down method the upper is pulled _______ over the last and attached to the
insole.
2. In force lasting the last is forced in uppers which are______________ in the toe
area.
3. In lasting operation two-dimensional leather is given a __________dimensional

shape.
4. Finishing covers the ___________ that might have occurred during the production
process.
5. The ___________ of the products is checked at all stages of production and also
before they are packaged and boxed ready for distribution.
Q1. What are the different methods of lasting? (4)

Q2. Which type of footwear can be made by lasting up method? (2)
Q3. Draw the diagram showing the California construction? (5)
Q4. Draw the diagram showing the Goodyear welted construction? (5)
Q5. Draw the flow chart of the shoe manufacturing process? (5)
Q6. What are the core processes for footwear manufacturing? (4)
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Unit 3
UPPER PREPARATION AND METHOD OF
INSOLE ATTACHMENT, AND USES OF
TOOLS
• Different tools and techniques

• Lining attaching method
• Insole attachment method
• Attachment of toe-puff and counter stiffener
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Information Sheet - 1 Different types of tools used in lasting
1.1 Tools
Tool is any item that can be used to for manufacturing a product, especially one
that is not consumed in the process. Informally the word is also used to describe
a procedure or process with a specific purpose. Tools that are used in particular
fields or activities may have different designations such as Instrument, Utensil,
Implement, Machine, or Apparatus. The set of tools needed to achieve a goal is
equipment. The following are the tools that are used in making footwear using
hand lasting method and their function.
1. Pincer
There are different types and shapes of pincers that are used for different functions.
The primary function of this tool is used to pull or stretch the upper over the last i.e. for
correct positioning of upper on the last. Some pincers tip of the handle is modified to
ease the removal of the lasting tack.
Fig 1 – pincer
2. Lasting jack (post and pins)
It is consists of a post and a pin. The post is held by a screw with the table and helps to
insert the pins on it. The pins are used to hold the last thimble in order to perform the
lasting operation easily.
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Fig 2 - Lasting jack
Some of shoe makers do not use this tool; instead they use their hand to hold the last
3. The nail lifter/tack puller
It is used to extract or remove unnecessary nails/tacks from the Shoe during lasting.
Some of the nail lifters handle is made of wood and others are made of plastic material
(Fig: 3).
Fig 3 - The Nail lifter/Tack puller
4. Scissors
This tool helps us to cut the excess lining during before pulling the upper on the last. It
should be sharp enough to cut the material easily.
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Fig 4 - scissor
5. Rampi
It is used for removal of excess accumulation of lasted upper from the bottom. This tool
is also used for preparation of channel on the leather insole for welt stitching in case of
welted footwear and also used for opening channel for sole stitching.
Fig 5 – Rampi
6. The hammer
It is used for flattening of bulge of any nature on the lasting margin of the lasted upper.
Fig 6 - The Hammer
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Information Sheet - 2 Upper preparation & Insole attachment
2.1 Upper Preparation
Lasting involves forming the upper by stretching it over the last. For foot comfort
the upper must conform to the shape of the last and retain much of it. Also the shoe
upper after a period of wear must also conform to the shape of the foot. For proper
lasting of the upper leather, some reinforcements material are needed for
strengthening the upper for the stress applied during lasting operation and hence
toe puff, counter stiffener are attached. The Lining of upper plays important role
for shape retention.
Preparation of upper for hand lasting process includes the following operations:
a. Toe puff attaching

b. Counter stiffener attaching
c. Lining pasting
d. Lacing the tabs
1. TOE PUFF ATTACHING:
The prepared toe- puff material is inserted between the upper and the lining in toe box
area for maintaining the shape of the shoe. If the toe puff is leather, the skived and
prepared toe-puff is mellowed by soaking water and then glue is applied. It is then
inserted between the lining and upper.
Fig 7 - Toe-puff attached to upper
a. The toe puff of non woven fabric material is solvent activated and when it is soft, it is
inserted between the upper and lining. Toe-puff is attached to the upper after dipping it
in the solvent (in case of solvent activated toe-puff). However care must be taken to
drain excess solvent to prevent sipping which often spoil the finish of the leather.
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b. The toe puff must be placed skived part facing lining and 5-6 mm inside from the
edge of the upper. The thickness for a non woven toe puff varies from 0.6-1.2 mm
depending upon the footwear manufactured.
c. Toe-puff must be under lay skived and must be tapered to zero. After lasting the
impression of toe-puff must not be visible on the shoes.
2. COUNTER STIFFENER ATTACHING
The edge skived and prepared stiffener material is inserted in between the upper and
the lining in order to retain the shape of the last. The solvent activated counters are
attached in the same manner as the toe puff. However, the top edge must reach up to
the quarter top line stitching (for normal dress shoe) or as per the instruction from the
pattern engineers in case of other design. The thickness used for counter stiffener
varies from 1.0-1.4mm depending upon the purpose of the footwear for which it will be
used.
Fig 8 - Counter Stiffener attachment with upper
3. LINING PASTING
The lining should be pasted on the upper cleared off of any wrinkles. Once the toe puff
and the counter stiffener has been attached to the upper; the lining on the upper has to
be stuck to the upper material (leather or synthetic) by means of an adhesive, leaving
no wrinkles and air pockets behind. The wrinkles may cause a problem while lasting
later on, which in turn might affect not only its wearer also it might cause an effect on
its sale ability. For good lining pasting a wooden block may be used.
2.1.1 INSOLE ATTACHMENT
Methods of attaching insole
Insole can be attached to the last in different ways:
a. By tacks
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Fig 9 – Insole attaching by tacks
b. Staples
Staple loading
Nozzle
Fig 10 – Insole attaching by staples
c. By adhesive tape
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Adhesive
Tapes
Fig 11 – Insole attached by adhesive tapes
d. By hot melt adhesive
Hot melt adhesive
Nozzle
Fig 12 – Adhesive gun
2.1.2 Purpose of attaching insole
Insole the main foundation of the shoe on which it is made. Upper, sole and heel are
attached to the insole. Different types of insole are used with different types of
footwear. High heel footwear have stronger insole than flat footwear. The steel shank
of the insole also supports the arch of the foot.
Different types of insoles
a. Continental Insole
It is type of insole in which full part is made up of insole board and in back part steel
shank attached shank board is attached on it. This type of insole we generally used
in casual footwear.
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b. Sandwich Insole
It is a type of insole in which only in back part insole board and steel shank attached
shank board attached together. It is used in moccasin shoes. Sometimes it is also
called as half insole.
c. Ribbed Insole
Traditionally a leather insole is used and a rib formed by channeling two lips all around
the perimeter of insole. These two lips are latexed and drawn up together to form a
welt or rib. But now more commonly a separate welt or rib usually consist of woven
tape with a cellulose board core and an adhesive coat on it‘s under side is used which
is applied on to the bottom of cellulose insole with help of machine.
d. Skeleton insole
In this type of insole two layers of insole boards are used. The second board is cut in
such a way that the lasting margin fits in these groves. These types of insoles are
normally used in sandals. There are two advantages of these insoles-
1. The lasting person knows exact place where to put the upper straps.
2. Since there is a grove the straps fits in the grove and at time of roughing and scouring
it does not lose its strength.
Inspection of insole after attachment
After insole attaching the following things must be checked –
1. The moulding of the insole must match the bottom profile of the last. There
should be no gap between the insole and last.
2. The size of the insole must exactly the same as the bottom of the last.
3. The beveling angle of the insole must match the curve of the back part of the
last.
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OHS practices relevant to different material
Information Sheet - 3
and process
3.1 Occupational Health Standards (OHS)
Work plays a central role in people‘s lives, since most workers spend at least eight
hours day in the workplace, whether it is on a plantation, in office, factory etc.
therefore, work environments should be safe and healthy. Yet this is not the case for
many workers. Every day workers all over the world are faced with a multitude of
health hazards, such as:
 Dust,
 Gases;
 Noise;
 Vibration;
 Extreme temperatures.
As a result of the hazard and lack of attention given to health and safety, work related
accidents and diseased are common in all parts of the world. The main health & Safety
hazards can be classified as:
 Due to machine and equipments

 Due to working environments and conditions.
 Due to chemicals.
CHEMICALS
In hand lasting process some hazardous chemicals are used. These are the different
types of:
 Adhesives
 Solvents
Though these chemicals is not necessarily hazardous to human health, one must be
aware that the inherent source of the hazard can be either the chemical itself, any
emission generated during the use or handling of the chemical (e.g. vapors, fumes,
effluent) or the containers used for storage and transport of these chemicals. The
impact of such exposure can range from temporary effects such as dizziness,
headache, irritation of eyes, skin or lungs, allergic reaction, collapse due to lack of
oxygen, poisoning of liver, kidney, nervous system to long term impairments such as
ulcer, bronchitis, genetic defects and, in some rare cases, even instantaneous death.
Chemical can enter the body by:
 Inhalation through the lungs;

 Absorption through the skin;
 Ingestion through the mouth;
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The following figure help to explain how chemicals can enter the body and the effects
they can have once they are the body. Figure 1 shows the different routes of entry by
which chemicals can enter the body.
Fig 1. Organs and tissues that may be affected by particular toxic industrial
chemicals.
The adhesives and solvents used for footwear production are:
 Poly urethane (Solvent based)

 Poly chloroprene (Solvent based)
 Latex
 MEK
 Toluene
Both solvent based adhesives have hazardous chemicals like benzene, toluene,
Methyl ethyl Ketone, Ethyl acetate etc. Latex has ammonia which has pungent smell
and causes irritation in the eye. Apart from health hazards these chemicals are highly
inflammable. This makes its storage and use more hazardous. Thus while using these
adhesives and solvents the following safety aspects must be kept in mind.
 Work in well ventilated area.

 If fumes are more use special exhaust table
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Fig 2 Table with canopy and exhaust to remove the hazardous fumes
 All workers must wear protective clothing.

 Workers must use latex gloves while using these chemicals.
 Reduce the number of workers from these areas.
 No smoking must be allowed on the factory floor.
 These materials must be stored separately with adequate fire safety measures.
 Availability of first aid.
 Trained first aid personnel.
MACHINE AND TOOLS
In hand lasting process different machine and tools are used. These are –
 Pincers
 Lasting jacks
 Tack pullers
 Scissors
 Rampi
 Heat setter
 Crowning machine
 Pounding machine
 Roughing and scouring machine
 Heat re-activator
 Sole press
 De-lasting machine
Different countries have their own Occupational health and safety standards. But all
businesses must provide facilities and instructions for the health and safety of the
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workers. Most of the developing and underdeveloped countries have no norms for
health and safety regulations.
1. Use the equipment or machine in accordance with training and instruction,
2. Inspect the equipment or machinery before use.
3. Refrain from wearing protective equipment outside of the work area where it is
required if to do so would constitute a hazard, and
4. Report any equipment malfunction to the supervisor or employer.
5. Wear the required protective clothing as per the requirement of the operation
and work.
6. Safety equipments must be provided in case of special machines like roughing

machine gives out leather dust so the worker must be provided with a mask and
glasses for protection of eyes. In pounding machine the noise level is high and
so year caps are required for the operator.
7. Most of the operators must be provided with leather gloves where they are
working with tools having sharp edges.
8. Dangling neckwear, bracelets, wristwatches, rings or similar articles must not

be worn, except for medical alert bracelets which may be worn with transparent
bands that hold the bracelets snugly to the skin.
9. In case of any fire or other mal-functioning the worker must immediately

switch off the machine and inform the supervisor or the concerned person
3.1.1 GENERAL WORK ENVIRONMENT
Workplace environment and conditions influence workers performance to a great

extent. Temperature & humidity, noise and quality of light are some key
conditions. These can have an effect safety and health of workers and can be
improved simple means.
Temperature & humidity:
Good ventilation and air circulation in the work area and insulation of buildings against
outside health and cold will contribute to pleasant temperature and reduction of
humidity. At the same time, overall ventilation also reduces the concentration of
airborne contaminant. Ideally factors such as direction of wind and facing northern
direction for sunshine should be always considered when planning the construction of
a tannery.
a. Use natural ventilation and air circulation to achieve low cost overall ventilation first,
taking advantage of horizontal air movement around and though buildings or the
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tendency of hot air to rise. Simple modifications such as removal of separating walls or
increase of wall opening will improve the natural airflow.
b. Install fans, where natural air ventilation and circulation are not sufficient.
1. Insulation against heat and cold
Before resorting to expensive equipment to control temperature, be aware that heat

and cold are also caused by outside climatic conditions. Heat and cold may get inside
the factory directly through opening such as windows, doors, gaps, skylights, or
indirectly though conduction through walls and roots. While ventilation is one way to
remove heat from the work place, also consider to:
• Improving the heat reflection of walls and roofs by plastering or whitewashing;

• Improving the insulation of the roof by using insulating material or double layer roof;
• Using radiant heat from machines and process to warm the work place in cold
climate;
• Using shades for the walls opening to deflect heat from direct sun shine;
• Planting trees and shrubs around the premises, which not only provide shade but
also become a natural filter for outside dust, besides giving your factory a pleasant
appearance?
2. Quality of light
Poor lighting leads to low productivity and poor quality, as workers will start suffering
from eye strain, fatigue and headache. Better lighting dose not mean that more light
bulbs have to be fixed in many cases, rearrangement of existing lighting and proper
maintenance and cleanliness of reflectors/fittings will result in improvements.
• Make full use of natural daylight by installing skylights or modifying size and location
of window. Keep the windows clean all the time. You save the electricity cost of
artificial lighting.
• Paint callings and inner walls in lighter colors. This provides better reflection and
distribution of existing light sources besides resulting in better visual condition and a
pleasant work environment.
• Avoid direct and indirect glare, glare can distract the workers concentration, possibly
resulting in poorer quality or even accidents.
3. Noise
Not all sound is noise –noise is sound that people do not like. Noise can be annoying
and it can interfere with your ability to work by causing stress and disturbing your
concentration. Noise can cause accident by interfering with communication and
warning signals. Noise can cause chronic health problems. Noise can also cause you
to lose your hearing. Hearing loss from exposure to noise in the workplace is one of the
most common of all industrial diseases. Workers can be exposed to high noise level in
workplaces as varied as construction industries, foundries and textile industries. Short-
term exposure to excessive nose can cause temporary hearing loss, lasting from a few
seconds to a few days. Exposure to noise over a long period of time can cause
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permanent hearing loss. Hearing loss that occurs over time is not always easy to
recognize and unfortunately, most workers do not realize they are going deaf until their
hearing is permanently damaged. Industrial noise exposure can be controlled – often
for minimal cost and without technical difficulty. The goal in controlling industrial noise
is to eliminate or reduce the noise at the source producing it.
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Fill in the blanks:

1. Rampi is used for removal of ______________ accumulation of lasted upper from the
bottom.
2. Toe-puff must be _________ skived and must be tapered to zero.
3. Ribbed insole is used for __________ construction footwear.
4. Skeleton insoles are normally used for __________.
5. The size of the insole must _____________________ the same as the bottom of the
last.
Q1. Name five tools used in lasting department? (2)

Q2. What are the processes involved in upper preparation? (2)
Q3. What is the use Rampi in lasting department? (2)
Q4. Where is the toe-puff placed in the upper? (2)
Q5. What are the different methods of attaching insole? (2)
Q6. What are the check points after attaching the insole? (4)
Q7. What are hazards faced by workers in industry? (2)
Q8. What are the hazardous chemicals used in footwear industry? (2)
Q9. How can the chemicals enter the human body? (2)
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Unit 4
HAND LASTING
 Process of hand lasting

 Quality check points after each operation
 Machines used for hand lasting
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Information Sheet - 1 Process of Hand lasting
1.1 Upper Preparation
Lasting involves forming the upper by stretching it over the last. For foot comfort the upper
must conform to the shape of the last and retain much of it. Also the shoe upper after a
period of wear must also conform to the shape of the foot. For proper lasting of the upper
leather, some reinforcements material are needed for strengthening the upper for the
stress applied during lasting operation and hence toe puff, counter stiffener are attached.
The Lining of upper plays important role for shape retention. Preparation of upper for
hand lasting process include the following operations
a. Toe puff attaching

b. Counter stiffener attaching
c. Lining pasting
d. Lacing the tabs
1. TOE PUFF ATTACHING
The prepared toe- puff material is inserted between the upper and the lining in toe cup
area for maintaining the shape of the shoe. If the toe puff is leather, the skived and
prepared toe-puff is mellowed by soaking water and then glue is applied. It is then
inserted between the lining and upper.
Fig 1 - Toe-puff attached to upper
a. The toe puff of non woven fabric material is solvent activated and when it is soft, it is
inserted between the upper and lining. Toe-puff is attached to the upper after dipping it
in the solvent (in case of solvent activated toe-puff). However care must be taken to
drain excess solvent to prevent sipping which often spoil the grain of upper.
b. The toe puff must be placed skived part facing lining and 5-6 mm inside from the
edge of the upper. The thickness for a non woven toe puff varies from 0.6-1.2 mm
depending upon the footwear manufactured.
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c. Toe-puff must be under lay skived and must be tapered to zero. After attaching the
toe-puff the impression of toe-puff must not be visible on the shoes.
d. The toe-puff must be dipped in toluene solvent or any other suitable solvent and
then pasted 5-6mm inside of the upper.
2. COUNTER STIFFENER ATTACHING
The edge skived and prepared stiffener material is inserted in between the upper and
the lining in order to retain the shape of the last. The solvent activated counters are
attached in the same manner as the toe puff. However, the top edge must reach up to
the quarter top line stitching (for normal dress shoe) or as per the instruction from the
pattern engineers. The thickness used for counter stiffener varies from 1.0-1.4mm
depending upon the purpose of the footwear for which it will be used.
3. LINING PASTING
The lining should be pasted on the upper cleared off of any wrinkles. Once the toe puff
and the counter stiffener has been attached to the upper; the lining on the upper has to
be stuck to the upper material (leather or synthetic) by means of an adhesive, leaving
no wrinkles and air pockets in between. This might cause a problem while lasting and
later on, which in turn might affect not only its wearer also it might cause an effect on
its sale ability.
4. INSOLE ATTACHMENT
Purpose of attaching insole
Insole the main foundation of the shoe on which it is made. Upper, sole and heel are
attached to the insole. Different types of insole are used with different types of footwear.
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High heel footwear have stronger insole than flat footwear. The steel shank of the insole
also supports the arch of the foot.
Inspection of insole after attachment: After insole attaching the following things must
be checked:
 The molding of the insole must match the bottom profile of the last. There should be
no gap between the insole and last.
 The size of the insole must exactly the same as the bottom of the last.
 The beveling angle of the insole must match the curve of the back part of the last.
5. DRAFTING
Drafting is a process by which the upper attached with toe-puff and counter stiffener is
placed on last and fixed on it with help of twelve tacks at designated place to see
whether after lasting the upper will be sitting properly on the last after complete lasting
process. If the drafting is not correct it must be rectified before doing the complete
lasting to get proper lasting
Note: The drafting process is already discussed in unit 1 in detail.
Steps of Drafting:
 1st drafting pull
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Fig 4 – Showing 1st drafting pull
 2nd & 3rd drafting pull
Fig 5 – Showing 2nd & 3rd drafting pulls
 4th drafting pull
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Fig 6 – Showing 4th drafting pull
After the 4th drafting pull check:
 Upper is centrally aligned

 Back height is at the correct position
 The back seam is straight.
 5th & 6th drafting pull

Fig 7 – Showing 5th & 6th drafting pull
After fifth and sixth pull check that the inside quarter top-line is 2-3 mm higher than the
outside topline.
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Check that the upper sits properly on the last in the vamp area and there is no gap
between upper and last.
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Check that there is no air gap between the last and the upper in inside waist area curve.
Complete drafted shoe
Fig 11 – Showing complete drafted shoe
6. LASTING WITH TACKS
Once the drafting process is over the upper is checked and the remaining area of the
upper is lasted with help of the nails and the upper looks as shown in figure.
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Fig 12 – Tack lasted shoe
13mm tacks are used for lasting of toe and the waist area and 8mm tacks are used for
seat area.
7. HEAT SETTING
Lasting involves forming the upper by stretching it over the last. For foot comfort the
upper must conform to the shape of the last and retain much of it. Also the shoe upper
after a period of wear must also conform to the shape of the foot.
Fig 13 – Heat setting machine
To last the upper well we should use the minimum strain necessary to make the upper
conform to the last. By stretching too tight we may cause upper crack and inadequate
shape retention of the shoe. For quality and productivity it is important to skillfully
design and maintain the whole production process from material selection to pattern
engineering, cutting and lasting.
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Purpose of heat setting
Heat Setting serves to relax the various lasting strains within the upper and 'set' the
upper into its new 3-dimensional shape in a short space of time. Heat setting does not
physically 'fix' the upper in a given conformation: it removes the tendency of the upper to
spring back to its up stretched, lasted size and shape. It is used to remove the stress
and make the upper grain get permanent shape. Retention of shape of upper is the
result of good heat setting. If the lasted upper is not going to the process of heat setting
it will lose its shape.
8. TACK REMOVAL AND ADHESIVE APPLICATION ON LASTING MARGIN
Once heat setting is done all the 13mm tacks of the lasting margin are removed. The
8mm tacks on seat area are left as there is steel plate on the last and the tack bend
and goes in the insole. However the seat tacks also be removed if there is no plate in
the seat area and the customer needs a fully cement lasted shoe.
Fig 14 – Removal of 13mm tacks
The lasting margin is lifted and adhesive is applied on toe and the waist area of upper
and of the lasting margin.
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Fig 15 – Adhesive application on upper and insole in lasting margin
9. PASTING OF LASTING MARGIN

When the adhesive dries the lasting margin is pulled and pasted with insole.
Fig 16 – Pasting of the lasting margin
Fault: Lasting margin not properly pasted

Reason: Adhesive not properly dried or not applied properly.
Correction: Let the adhesive dry completely before pasting the lasting margin.
Apply adhesive properly on upper and the insole.
10. INSOLE TACK REMOVAL
All the insole tacks are removed once the lining is properly pasted. This process is
eliminated if the insole is attached with adhesive tapes or hutment adhesive.
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Fig 17 – Insole tack removal
11. BASIC MACHINES USED IN HAND LASTING
 Heat setting machine

 Pounding machine
 Roughing and scouring machine
 Dryer and flash re-activator
 Sole press
 Chiller
 De-lasting machine
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Self-Assessment - 4
1. After fifth and sixth pull check that the inside quarter top-line is _______ higher than
the outside top-line.
2. _______ tacks/nails are used for drafting.
3. Back height is adjusted in the __________ drafting pull.
4. _________ tacks are used for lasting of toe and waist area..
5. Tacks removed after the ____________ operations.
Section 2. Short Answers 20 points
Q1. Which solvent is used for solvent activated toe-puff and counter stiffeners?(2)
Q2. Why skiving is done on toe-puff and counter stiffeners? (2)
Q3. How does one position the counter stiffener on the upper? (2)
Q4. What is drafting? (2)
Q5. What the things one must check after the 4th drafting pull? (3)
Q6. What is the purpose of heat setting? (3)
Q7. What is the reason for lasting margin not properly pasted to insole? (2)
Q8. What are the basic machines used in hand lasting? (4)
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Unit 5
HEAT SETTING AND WRINKLE CHASING
 Functions and setting of the machine

 Basic parameters of heat setting
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Information Sheet - 1 Heat setting and wrinkle chasing
1.1 Heat setting
Introduction
Lasting involves forming the upper by stretching it over the last. For foot comfort the
upper must conform to the shape of the last and retain much of it. Also the shoe upper
after a period of wear must also conform to the shape of the foot. To last the upper well
we should use the minimum strain necessary to make the upper conform to the last. By
stretching too tight we may cause upper crack and inadequate shape retention of the
shoe. For quality and productivity it is important to skillfully design and maintain the
whole production process from material selection to pattern engineering, cutting and
lasting. Traditionally, for adequate shape retention the upper was left on the last for two
to three days, or even longer. Today we use techniques, which will give us better
shape retention of the upper in a much shorter time. These techniques are known
Mulling and Heat Setting and there are a number of variations to these two basic
processes. Research has shown that if the leather upper is mulled before lasting in
which moisture is imparted into the leather fibers and lasting and subsequent heat
setting done immediately after, the result is better shape retention properties in the final
upper.
Mulling can be done in a variety of ways but each method if done correctly will give the
required results. The great advantage of mulling is that it allows the leather upper to be
stretched more easily and it is less likely to crack. Perhaps the most common method
in use today is to subject the vamp area to steam vapors immediately before forepart
lasting, the required and the temperatures used will vary according to the type of upper
leather being used but is only a matter of 1/4th a minute or a so, this method also has
advantage of softening the toe-puff at the same time (thermo-plastic toe-puffs). Another
method is to use a Rapid Conditioning Cabinet for mulling; in this machine a rapid
stream of humid air is blown over the leather uppers. The temperature of the air approx
50‘C and the cycle time is 15-30 seconds. Every upper is subjected to identical
treatment, and very consistent moisture gains are obtained.
In modular (‗rink‘) production configurations the upper is passed through steam in

tunnel prior forepart lasting. The shoe is lasted immediately after Leather uppers
conditioned this way get mulled but the extra moisture does not remain in the material
more than about 20 seconds, so the lasting must be done immediately. Heat setting is
usually carried out after the upper has been completely lasted before any of the
bottoming operations (roughing etc.) are done. Great advances have been made in this
field in recent decades allowing progress from the old style of cabinet which usually
consists of two or three chambers, the first imparting steam or moisture into the upper
and other‘s rapidly drying it out (a process which can take 15 minutes to the modern
HVA (High velocity air) heat setters which force the moisture in to the upper and
immediately out again to complete the heat setting process in around 10 minutes
(slight variations according to the type of material).
Heat setting will ensure about 70-80% shape retention of most types of upper material,
including PU and PVC coated fabrics but there is usually no advantage in using
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moisture on manmade upper materials, only dry air is used and the temperature
related to time will vary according to the material.
What is Heat setting?
Heat setter is the machine used for shoe shape retention. Heat setting serves to relax
the various lasting strains within the upper and set the upper into its new 3-dimensional
shape in a short period of time. Heat setting does not physically fix the upper in a
given conformation; it removes the tendency of the upper to spring back to un-
stretched, un-lasted size and shape. Heat seating has a very important role to play in
the shape retention of the footwear. All the stresses and the strain borne by the upper
during the lasting pulls are relaxed by means of the heat and moisture. Improper heat
setting might lead to the sagging of the shoe, which affects the sale-ability of the shoe.
Heat setting is treating the lasted upper with heat, Vapor and chilling. This is done to
ease the upper from elasticity and plasticity which has occurred during lasting.
 Moisturized heat setting is required for leathers and dry heat setting is required
synthetic materials or man-made materials.
 Average temperature – 1000 to 1400 and the dwell timing is 3-4 minutes.
 For lighter leather‘s like sheep goat, kid baby, cow calf 1000 – 1200C is advisable
 For Heavy Leathers cow and Buff temperature is 1200 – 1400C.
In some specific case the temperature needs to be reduced or increased i.e. some
upper leather/ Lining/ Decorates cannot with stand the above temperature. Decoration
(Nu buck, Suede) surface getting Burnt etc… Also some leather‘s and materials need
higher temperature to impregnate the top surface. The leather shoes pass through high
velocity air or hot moist air in the first section, this serving to relax the materials down
to the last secondly, they pass through a hot, dry air section. This removes the
moisture and sets the shoe more accurately to its new shape. Heating is ensured by
high velocity air currents being blown over all parts of the shoe. After lasting, the shoe
is 'set' in a heat setting chamber to ensure that the shape of the product matches the
last. Leather uppers when changed from the flat skin into a three dimensional shape by
lasting, would, left long enough, naturally assume the new shape and retain it. This was
because of the inherent properties of leather.
Types of heat setters
There are three main types of heat setting machines:
1. Infra-Red heat setting machine

2. High Velocity Air-jet machine (HVA)
3. Conventional Heated Cabinets (CHC)
1. Infra-Red heat setting machine
The early heat setters used only infrared heated elements. The lasted shoes were
passed by a conveyor system through the cabinet. The basic disadvantage was that, this
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form of heat was very directional and certain parts of the shoe did not received as much
heat-treated as others.
2. High Velocity air-jet (HVA) (for stress relaxation)
HVA setters offer several advantages largely centered on the efficiency of the setter in
putting heat into the shoe upper. This the most popular heat setting system adopted
worldwide. The high air speeds, typically 12 to 14 meters per second, result in much
quicker heat transfer to the upper, allowing reduced throughput times, smaller machines
and significant savings. The principle on which this works is that, the upper has been
subjected to a variety of strains and pulls in lasting which set up stress in the material. To
get the material to lay do 'tight-to-wood', it would be an advantage to relax these
stresses. So H.V.A. setters were introduced for the purpose of heat setting. The shoes
pass through hot moist air in the first section, this serving to relax the material down to the
last. Secondly, they pass through a hot, dry air section. This removes the moisture and
sets the shoe more accurately to its new shape. In both parts of the cabinet, all round
heating is ensured by high velocity air currents being blown over all parts of the shoe.
Rapid heat setting machines is more compact and is used in rink systems in place of
conventional making tracks. HVA setters are now available in a multitude of lengths,
widths and heights. They can have moist setting zones followed by a dry air zones or have
dry zone only. Their function is almost taken for granted now a day and then often act
primarily as conveyors to move shoes from one operation to the next in a small rink
module. Here the shoe may be on the last for half an hour or less. Hence the setting
operation must be highly efficient as the upper will have no chance to relax of its own
accord before the last is slipped.
3. Conventional Heated Cabinets (CHC)
The heat setter machine uses high-temperature steam and hot air to soften mold the
upper outside quickly, it can save power energy and last. Special stainless steel heating
chamber with convention of hot air and steam can relieve the stress inside the upper and
make it stick to the last better. It has thoroughly altered the conventional process with
roasting the upper unscientifically so as not to influent the flexibility and glossary. The
adjustable temperature controller can set the optimal temperature in light of shoe
materials. The speed can be controlled by regulation of timer.
Purpose of heat setting
Heat Setting serves to relax the various lasting strains within the upper and 'set' the
upper into its new 3-dimensional shape in a short space of time.
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Fig 1 – Heat setting machine
Heat setting does not physically 'fix' the upper in a given conformation: it removes the
tendency of the upper to spring back to its up stretched, lasted size and shape. It is used
to remove the stress and make the upper grain get permanent shape. Retention of
shape of upper is the result of good heat setting. If the lasted upper is not going to the
process of heat setting it will lose its shape. The traditional way of heat setting is done
by exposing the shoe to sunlight. There are two considerations for the heat setting
machine to minimize the production cost.
1. Time for heat setting

2. Number of lasts
Different materials need different heat setting methods. For example:
 Leather requires steam heat setting.

 Man-made materials require dry heat setting.
1.1.1 Machine Operation Instructions
SAFETY:
1. Do not put your hand within the tunnel when machine is running.
2. Do not raise heat setting temperature more than 140oC for leather Upper.
3. Ensure that there is enough water in the tank before switching on the machine. Use
distilled water only.
4. Concentrate on job while operating machine.
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OPERATIONS:
1. Switch on the air compressor and the machine at least 20 minute before operation.
2. Set conveyor movement to 3 – 4 minutes
3. Make sure the temperature display is show the temperature set for the material.
4. Set heating temperature according to the Upper & Lining material.
5. For leather upper press steam button on.
6. No Steamer is required for Nu buck, Suede leather and synthetic materials.
Adjustment of machine parameter for different types of upper materials
Sl. No Upper & Lining materials Temperature

1 Grain leather – Cow, Buff, Goat, Sheep, Calf Moist air at 1200C -
1300C
2 Nu buck, suede Leather - Cow, Buff, Goat, Dry air at 1200C—1300C
Sheep
3 P.U. Coated leather, Finished split, Dry air at 1200C—1300C
Poromerics,
4 PU Patent Synthetic, PVC , Fabrics Dry air at 1000C
Table. 1 Recommended heat setting for upper material
Note that to adjust the parameters you have to press select button to ensure the
indicator light is near the corresponding parameters e.g. temperature, conveyor speed,
steam control button. It is advisable of check the leather finish after heat setting and
adjusts temperature accordingly
Faults in heat setting
Losses of shape of the shoe after heat setting are due to:-
 Upper too hot when last is slipped out

 Inadequate exposure to heat setting
 Overheated during heat setting
Corrective measures
 Adequate cooling of upper after heat setting

 Check steam, temperature and dwell time
 Ensure application of moisture where its necessary
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WRINKLE CHASING
This operation is done after heat setting operation. This is remove small wrinkles which
are left after heat setting.
Temperature adjustment knob
Steam adjustment knob
Nozzle for super heated steam
Roller for ironing
On/Off switch
Fig 2 – Wrinkle chasing machine
The wrinkle chaser machine is a simple machine which has a nozzle through which
super heated steam and hot air comes out. This steam mellows the leather and heat
removes the wrinkles and looseness of the leather on the last. There is roller for ironing
the leather after the leather becomes leather hot due to super heated steam.
Faults:
 Leather burned
 Thread burned
Reason:
 The iron roller too hot

 Steam not coming properly
 Thread burn is caused by ironing done on the stitching
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Correction:
 Check steam flow and keep the water jar filled with water
 Do not do wrinkle chasing on the stitches
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add some explanations/answers
1. Traditionally, for adequate shape retention the upper was left on the ______for two
to three days, or even longer.
2. The advantage of ________ is that it allows the leather upper to be stretched more
easily and it is less likely to crack.
3. Heat setter is the machine used for shoe shape ___________.
4. The wrinkle chaser machine is a simple machine which has a nozzle through which
__________ heated steam comes out.
5. The temperature of heat setting machine is set according to the ________ & Lining
material.
Section 2. Long Answers 25 points
Q1. Name the three main types of heat setting machines?

Q2. Reasons for shoe losing shape after de-lasting?
Q3. What are the different faults that can come after wrinkle chasing?
Q4. What is the disadvantage of infra-red heat setting machine?
Q5. What is heat setting?
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Unit 6
ROUGHING, SCOURING AND SOLE
ATTACHMENT. PRACTICAL FOR FULL
SHOES MAKING BY HAND LASTING
 Roughing & scouring and sole attaching process

 Final inspection of complete footwear
 Quality monitoring and inspection
 Planning in lasting Hand department
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Information Sheet - 1 Roughing, scouring and sole attachment
1.1 ROUGHING AND SCOURING & SOLE PREPARATION
The manner in which the upper material and sole material prepared before bonding
and the way in which a compatible adhesive is applied to both the surfaces is known as
bonding system. The methodology of the bonding systems in the upper and the sole
materials play an important role in the footwear manufacturing process, particularly in
stuck-on process. If the preparation of the upper and sole material will not be proper there
will be no proper adhesive between the sole and the upper, thus creating a lot of
problems for both the manufacturers and the customers.
Sole Preparation Process

Generally sole preparation is a process of making the sole compatible for the
application of the adhesive for the bonding system of the upper and the sole material
for full shoe production. It includes the following main preparatory operations:-
a. Roughing;-
Roughing is done to remove the grain on leather or glazed surfaces and then raise
fibers on the leather. This is essentially a preparation for sole adhesion.
Fig 1 – Roughing operation
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b. Scouring:-
Scouring is done to remove excess pleats on the lasting especially at the toe. This
operation is done to obtain a flat bottom profile before roughing. A scouring wheel
with 24 or 36 grit abrasive paper is generally used.
Fig 2 – Scouring operation
GRINDERIES USED IN SCOURING AND ROUGHING OPERATIONS:
Abrasives are used in the shoe trade for preparing the surface of the material prior to
applying and adhesive or a finish. This is similar to the way that sand paper is used in
the home, to prepare surfaces for painting.
Abrasives are made up of four basic parts:-
1. Backing material
2. Adhesive bonding agent
3. Grit (Abrasive particles)
4. Sizing agent (To hold grit in place)
An international system is used by the abrasive manufacturers using different

types of sieves/ that determine the number of grits to a square inch of material.
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Fig 3 – Emery ring for roughing
Therefore, the bigger the grit the less number there will be to the square inch. Hence
with a coarse grit there could be as little as 24 to the square inch and a fine grit might
have as many as 240 to the square inch. These numbers are used to define the grade
of abrasive material. The coarsest grit in common use is 24 no. grit. It is used for
roughing the edge of the uppers before cementing for sole attaching. Fine grit is used
to scour the bottom of leather soles to give a smooth surface before applying a bottom
finish. Also used for repair of scuff or minor scratches on upper. It must be realized that
between these two extremes there are numerous grades to choose from depending on
the types of material being used and the finish required. Listed below are four
operations using abrasives:-
1. Scouring the lasted edge

2. Surface scouring of leather soles
3. Heel breast scouring
4. Heel shaping
Shoe trade abrasives are supplied in belt form, on rolls, or in flat sheets, shaped to fit
scouring wheels and rollers on bottom preparing and finishing machinery. Abrasives
are made by taking a paper or cloth material to which is applied a natural glue or
synthetic resin adhesive, before applying the correct number of grit for the grade of
abrasive required. The abrasive is finally sealed with an adhesive sizing agent to
secure the grit.
There are two types of abrasives widely used in the industry. ALUMINIUM OXIDE,
which is reddish brown in color, and SILICON CARBIDE, which is a black mineral.
Aluminium oxide is extremely hard wearing, making it suitable for almost all shoe trade
applications. Silicon carbide gives a very sharp cutting surface, but does not wear as
well as aluminum oxide, and would be used for lighter scouring operations, e.g. top
piece scouring and heel breast scouring.
It is important that the correct abrasive is selected for each operation. For simplicity we
can group the various abrasives in three: -
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1. Coarse Grit 24-60
These coarse grit abrasives, usually aluminium oxide, are used when large amount of
material need to be removed, e.g. pleats which have formed during toe lasting. These
grits leave a very rough surface on the material around the lasted edge, which is then
further roughed by wire brush and cemented for sole laying. Because of the
coarseness of the grit it is much less likely to clog than a fine grit.
2. Medium Grit 80-120
These are usually aluminium oxide abrasive used where less material needs to be
removed without producing too smooth a finish, such as shaping leather built heels.
3. Fine Grit 150-240
Usually aluminum oxide but could be silicon carbide. Used when a very smooth surface
finish is required, e.g. leather built heel and sole preparation prior to inking or finishing.
Two conditions which badly affect the abrasives are:-
a. If the abrasive is stored at too high temperature, causing it to crack

b. If the abrasive is stored in damp conditions, causing the grit to peel away from the
cloth.
Abrasives must be kept in correct conditions during storage to avoid damage. Sheets
and strips should be stored flat or on a reel; belts should be hung over a rail to avoid
creasing.
TYPES OF ROUGHING WHEEL
Various types of wire brushes are used to suit the needs of the different types of upper
materials. For kid leather a softer (brass), lighter brush is used and for heavier leather,
e.g. corrected grain, a heavier steel brush is used. The diameter of the wires in the
brushes can range from 0.15mm to 0.30mm and the types of brushes in general use
are:
a. Steel: Used for medium to heavy leathers

b. Brass: Used for delicate and light leathers
c. Rubber impregnated wire brush
d. Scouring paper (36 grit): The scouring paper is holded on to the machine by the
rubber roller. The rubber roller is designed to expand. This is used for removing any
surplus upper material at the toe or the seat of the lasted margin.
The type of roughing applied to the shoe will vary according to the shoe style/design.
1. Basic Cement construction: The total lasted margin of this construction is

roughed up to the featheredge. This is used for the leather soles or unit soles
with little or no lip.
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2. Court Shoe Unit sole: The heel of this construction is not roughed. The sole is
roughed just short of where the sole ends at the seat. After sole attaching the
heel of this construction is inside attached.
3. Walled Unit Construction: The shoe is roughed over the featheredge just short
of where the unit extends
FAULTS CAUSES AND CORRECTIONS IN SCOURING AND ROUGHING

OPERATION
Fault: 1. Surface loose to torn

Cause: i) Too much pressure applied on the shoe against the brush
ii) Loose fibred leather
Correction: Reject if necessary
Fault: 2. Surface not completely removed

Cause: i) Too little pressure applied on the shoe against the brush
ii) Whole lasted margin not presented to the brush.
iii) Wire brush not sharp enough
Correction: i) Re-rough, apply more pressure
ii) Re-rough, cover whole lasted margin, move shoe up and down
slightly while roughing
iii) Sharpen the wire brush
Fault: 3. Roughing over the featheredge.

Cause: Operator
Correction: Operator practice
Fault: 4. Roughing under the feather edge.

Cause: Operator
Correction: Operator practice, re-rough to feather edge.
c. Wiping:-
Solvent wiping removes surface contamination such as grease from leather,

plasticizers from PVC, mold-releasing agent from soling materials and soaps in
vulcanized rubber. It also improves the surface wetting by the cement. With rubber and
plastics, suitable solvents can soften and swell surface layers to facilitate infusion of
cement.
d. Priming:-
Chemical priming makes a surface more compatible with the adhesive by chemically
modifying the surface. E.g. ―Satreat‖ chlorinates crepe, vulcanized rubber and
thermoplastic rubber to allow some specific adhesion to PU cement. Isocyanate
primers improve specific adhesion to nylon, polyester an EVA. A special primer for
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EVA deposits a polymer film. Dilute cement films are applied on very porous
substances to provide better foundation for the main cement layer.
e. Sole marking:-
This operation is done after scouring and before roughing. This operation is required
for mark of the lasted upper with cup sole for roughing purpose in order to remove the
grain layer of upper leather. This can be done by holding the lasted upper after
scouring with sole and marking done. Marking machines could be also used for this
process. Sole marking with help of marking machine is faster and more accurate.
LEATHER
Polychloroprene or PU.
Grain leather (resin Rough or scour to remove
(PU adhesives better
Finished, anilineany finished and grain layer
on
nu buck
Fig 4 – Sole marking machine Greasier leathers).
Preparation of different upper material
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Suede Lightly rough or scour to tease up fibersPriming is
flattened by lasting recommended before
cementing very
absorbent leather
Finished splits Rough or scour to remove Finish and tease

to leather
Rough orFibers
scour to remove PU film (and
PU Patent
leather grain If present),
to within 3 mm Of edge of sole.
PU Coated (e.g.Rough or scour to remove PU coating or
Scuff MEK Solvent wipe
Resistant to clean surface.
PVC coated leather Rough or scour to roughen PVC film but not
remove it or MEK
PVC - COATED FABRICS

solvent wipe to remove surface finish.
Solid or semi- Either: Rough or scour just to remove PU
expanded finished layer but not remove coating or
Solvent wipe (MEK) to remove finish. PU
Soft cellular
Solvent wipe (MEK) to Remove finish
SYNTHETIC SUEDES
Rough or solvent wipe (MEK) to disturb the surface
PU or PVC PU
layer
PU - COATED FABRICS
All types Rough or scour to remove PU coatingPU. Two coats usually
completely Except for 3 mm and aroundnecessary to avoid
feather edge starvation if textile base
is exposed.
POROMERICS
All types PU
Rough or scour into Surface micro porous
layer
TEXTILES
Most natural and Non usually necessary PU or

certain Synthetic polychloroprene, Two
fibred materials coats usually
beneficial.
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Difficult materials Lightly rough or scour if Practicable. Prime PU or
Including nylon. with Isocyanate or special SAT nylon polychloroprene.
primer. Two components
adhesive are often
better.
A) SOLE MATERIALS
Sole material Preparation Adhesive
LEATHER
Rough. Loose flesh fibers Polychloroprene or PU

Should not be present (Two coats)
RUBBER
Resin or micro Sour, rough or Lacsol Prime Polychloroprene
Halogenate (e.g. Satreat) or PU

Special rubber primer
Molded units
Including gristle Scour or rough Polychloroprene
Rubbers Halogenate (e.g. satreat). A PU
Pre-rough or Lacsol prime
Is often beneficial.
Natural crepe Special crepe primer or Polychloroprene or PU

Halogenate (e.g. .Satreat or
Super Satreat).
Thermoplastic Rubber Halogenate (e.g. Satreat or PU

(TR) Super Satreat) by soft Brush or
spray.
Special polychloroprene
Solvent wipe (petroleum or
Spirit) PU
POLY VINYL CHLORIDE (PVC)

Solid, including MEK solvent wipe (ethyl PU
Blends acetate often better)
Cellular Light rough
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MICROCELLULAR EVA
Polychloroprene
i) Scour or MEK solvent
Wipe
PU
ii) Isocyanate primer (M 238)
Or special EVA primer.
(Apre-scourmaybe necessary
and correct
heat activation is vital
with the special primer)
POLYURETHANE
Cellular Rough, or clean well with MEK PU
Solvent wipe (MEK)

Solid
NYLON
Rough plus isocyanate Polychloroprene or

Prime or special primer two -part PU
POLYESTER
Solvent wipe with Chlorinated PU

solvent (e.g. Genklene) then
Isocyanate
Wipe.
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1.1.1 STORAGE OF PRIMERS
The main purpose of the primers is to help chemically activate that outer layer of the
upper material and the sole, where the film of adhesive would be applied and bonded
together. The expected shelf life of primers commonly in use is as follows:
Primer Shelf Life
Lacsol for rubber sole 6 months

Satreat – for TPR sole 3 months unopened.1 month opened
Super Satreat 2 months unopened.1 month opened
SAT EVA Primer 6 months
Isocyanate wipe (SDP 102 1 to 2 weeks
S A T n y l o n primer 3 months
The shelf life of any product is that span of time from the date of manufacturing to the
date of expiry as indicated by the manufacturer of that product. Once a stock container
has been opened, the shelf life may be reduced if a primer shows signs of
deterioration. E.g. sediment or undue discolorations, do not use. Halogenation primers
such as Satreat should be kept in black polythene containers with the caps firmly
screwed on to avoid degradation by exposure to sunlight or uptake of moisture. The
physical and the chemical treatment of the sole and the upper material are to be done
before the adhesive is applied to either of them. The adhesive applied (shown in the
table) should be compatible to both the surfaces. Enough time is then given to each one
of them for drying (either in normal conditions or by forced drying). After that proper
activation time and temperature should be given to heat the adhesive film on the upper
and the sole so that proper and efficient bonding takes place.
1.1.2 Sole Pressing
The main purpose of these operations is to activate and press the sole and the shoe
bottom together so that they may not come apart in wear. A variety of machines have
been made for sole and shoe bottom activation, the choice of the machine is mainly
made on the output required and the price. For example some flash heat activators
have setting for temperature and cycle time. Some cheaper models have no setting;
therefore rely on the operator's skills. Modem sole presses are all equipped with a variety
of pads to allow for various heel heights and adjustable pressure for the wide range of
soling materials
.
Types of sole press
Sole attaching presses are of two main types, Traditional type of presses and Enveloping
bag presses.
In the traditional type of presses, the lasted upper is held in position by two jacks, one at
the forepart and the other at the back of the last, while pressure, either hydraulic or
pneumatic, is applied to the sole. In simplest machines the pressure is applied
mechanically. The pad box will contain rubber pads, water or air bags. There can be a
back support for high heels.
Fig 5 - Universal sole press
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Other popular sole press machines
A) Press for flat sole B) Sole pressing with side wall
Fig 6 - Different types of sole pressing machine
Enveloping bag presses- In this type of press the lasted upper with sole spotted in
position is either partially or totally enclosed in a rubber bag so that pressure is applied
from several directions at once. This is advantageous not only for walled soles but for veldt
or stitch down constructions where consolidation of the veldt/flange sole bond is important.
Fig 7 – Sole press machine (Dr. Funk Type)

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Machine adjustment
1. Position a shoe having sole spotted on the pad box and make adjustments according
to contour of the sole bottom. This may involve re-setting the angle of the box, changing
the rubber blocks or profiles and inserting waist wedges, depending on the type of press.
2. Position the toe and heel jacks independently for the last size and adjust for height.
3. Bring the press to its clamped position and then apply pressure to check whether sole
distortion occurs. Any serious distortion of the sole must be reduced as far as possible by
reducing the pressure to the acceptable minimum. Serious distortion prevents an adhesive
bond. Bonding pressures of about 5 bars is usual. Satisfactory flat bonds can often be
achieved at half this pressure. Actual pressures applied depend on the type of sole, being
lowest for soft materials such as TPR and highest for hard materials such as leather.
4. Spot the sole and press it immediately after heat reactivation.
5. Keep the shoe under pressure for 12 to 15 seconds or longer.
Check performance of sole press
Pressure distribution
1. Destructive sole bond testing will reveal any weakness in the attachment due to
uneven or insufficient pressure. (16 point test)
2. Check the pressure distribution by carbon paper method.
In this method, a lasted upper and sole are prepared up but excluding cement. Carbon
paper between two white paper sheets is placed between the sole and upper. After the
pressure has been applied in the press, the sheet of white paper is examined for an even
print. Any variability in the lasted margin region must be investigated.
Carbon Paper Test for the Soles
This test is done to ensure that the sole press is set correctly and the pressure is acting
at every point on the feather edge of the last.
1. Take two sheets of foolscap paper & put a carbon between them & staple the sheets
together. Place a sole on the press and keep paper on it.
2. Place this paper between sole & lasted upper & start the sole press. Use normal
pressure & cycle time as in regular production.
3. Remove last and check the carbon paper impression. The feather edge & lasting
margin should be seen as a clear line.
3. If the line is not clear then readjust the pads till a clear feather line is seen.
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4. The carbon paper test should be done every morning & when the correct impression
is obtained, the operator should get it signed by the supervisor & then start production.
5. Pads on the sole press become hard after a few months & will require to be changed.
Always keep an extra set for such replacement.
Fit of upper to soles
1. When sole units have a wall, check that the lasted upper is not bridging the wall at any
point.
2. Check soles with stuck-on rands in a similar way if the rand is high. The inner edge of
the rand should be skived to avoid bridging effect.
3. Avoid stretching the sole. Some soles can be stretched to fit when spotting but this can
lead to narrowing of the waist of the sole, being risk of bridging this area. To reduce toe
spring, have PVC sole somewhat smaller than the shoe. Spot and stretch the forepart of
the sole first then spot the waist and heel.
4. Keep bottom filling materials within the lasted margin. Apart from the reduction in
bonding area caused by an overlap, the additional bulk of filler will also produce localized
high spots of pressure which may lead to areas of poor adhesion nearby
How to Check Sole Adhesion after sole press
1. After attaching the sole wait for 1 hour and then do test on Satra adhesion tester.
This is called the green test where the adhesive has not set firmly. Green test values
should be 90% of the final test values. For e.g. if adhesion standard at toe is 20kg the
green test value should be 18kg at least.
2. Check one pair in every batch/plan or at least twice a day.
3. After 24 hours of sole fixing check sole adhesion and ensure it meets the sole bond
standards of 20kg at toe, 25kg at the sides & 30kg at the heel. One may use SATRA
sole adhesion tester (STD 185)
4. If adhesion is not satisfactorily check cause of failure
 Adhesive not dry enough

 Poor roughing
 Poor laminar strength
 Improper application of adhesive
 Adhesive too viscous
 Improper pressing
 Improper activation
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 You can do a test on tensile testing machine to get accurate information on cause of
failure.
5. Keep records of plan wise sole bond tests for traceability
6. Keep enough adhesive for 30 minutes only. This because when you use a hardener
the shelf life of the adhesive is about 40 – 50mts and the adhesive must be consumed
in this period.
FAULTS, CAUSES AND CORRECTION
S.NO FAULTS CAUSES CORRECTIONS
1 Sole gaping  Sole or shoe bottom not  Make sure that the
fully covered with whole surface on the
adhesive sole and the shoe are
 Sole not prepared as fully covered with
per the procedure adhesive
 Not enough activation  Follow the sole
 Cycle time on press too preparation procedure
short  Increase flash heat cycle
 Insufficient pressure on time
sole press  Increase cycle time on
 Wrong adhesive used the press
 Increase pressure on the
sole press
2 Sole layed  Poor sole potting by the  Operator must take care
too far operator while spotting the sole
forward  Operator not trained on to the shoe bottom
correctly  Operator must be given
good training procedure
3 Sole layed  Poor sole spotting by  Operator must take care
too far back the operator while spotting the sole
 Operator not trained on to the shoe bottom
4 Sole layed  Poor sole spotting by  Operator must take care
to one side the operator while spotting the sole
 Operator not trained on to the shoe bottom
5 Damaged  Operator not positioning  Make sure the shoe is
upper the shoe on to the sole positioned directly under
press directly under the the heel pad before
heel pad pressing the sole
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pressure activation
buttons.
Routine maintenance of Sole press machines
1. Check the forepart and waist pad boxes of the sole press
2. Select the correct pad for the last
3. Check the heel pad assembly
4. Set the tone pads
5. Check the distance from the edge of the toe of the last to the toe pad should be
35mm
6. The distance between the heel pad and the top of the last should be approximately
25mm
7. Set the pressure. This depends on the type of soling materials. For micro and thermo
plastic rubber because of their softness the pressure required is approximately 3 bars.
8. Set the cycle timer. This also depends on the type of adhesive and the soling
materials. To obtain the best results it must not be set under 15 seconds.
9. Place the joined upper and sole as in (8) positioned under the toe pad and the heel
pad.
10. Apply pressure evenly throughout the sole bottom. Thus the sole is evenly layed.
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Information Sheet- 2 Final Inspection of complete footwear
2.1 Inspection of complete footwear
Inspection is an important function though it does not add value to the product but adds
to its cost. Too much inspection is needless and too little inspection may not provide
requisite quality assurance. Inspection planning, therefore, must serve as essential
element in quality assurance program me. Inspection planning consists of six basic
elements.
1. What to inspect (specifications)?
Specifications are the tools of inspection in absence of specifications, neither buying nor
selling of footwear can be tough of. The drawing sheets, sequence of operations, bill of
materials, commercial standard pertaining to the country‘s law, packaging instructions,
and assembly and test instructions are all examples of specifications.
2. When to inspect (stages of inspection)?
Stages of inspection identify, within the conversion process, the points at which the
inspection tests need to be carried out to identify the defects and initiative corrections
there by ensuring production of goods of the right quality at minimum cost to the
organization.
Inspection should be conducted as the production is coming off the line so that
correction (if any) is made at the earliest. This kind of inspection is called
patrolling or roving inspection and it is done at the place of actual production.
They should make frequent spot check on all aspects of manufacturing in the
department to which they belong. Additionally it should be the responsibility of
the roving inspector to regularly check machine settings like temperature, dwell
times, pressure, etc. This is particular importance in the lasting and making
department. Inspection should be carried out on the components before they are
transferred to other section, department or division. This kind of inspection is
known as stage inspection. This type of inspection identifies the sources of
defects thereby fixing the responsibility on individuals. Inspection should be
conducted prior to an operation after whose completions no rework what so ever
is possible. This type of inspection is called critical operation inspection. While
performing inspection, care must also be taken to inspect goods
 Prior to a costlier operation

 Prior to an operation which conceals the defects of the previous operations
 Prior to an operation that is likely to endanger costly tooling.
All shoe s shall be subjected to inspection after lasting to ensure that they have been
lasted properly and that all proportions are accurate. After roughing operation,
103 | P a g e
correction to inaccurate lasting is very difficult as roughed areas invariably become
visible in the finished shoe. Inspection after lasting is therefore essential. The inspector,
who must be able to make small corrections to the lasting, should have the following
equipment in his /her workplace.
 Good lighting
 Work ticket holder
 Hammer
 Lasting pincer
 Creep rubber pad for upper correcting
The lasting inspector should use the following sequence for carrying out his inspection:
 He should begin by reading the work ticket so that he can determine the correct
dimension and specifications for the shoes.
 The vamp length and the back height should be checked.
 The back seams and the side seams and fore seams should be straight and uniform
 Trims. Aprons, eyelet facing etc. should not be distorted and should be uniformed
from the pair to pair.
 The uppers should be checked to ensure that they have been sewn according to the
specifications and no stitches or details are missing.
 The soles should be examined for general damage (e.g. lasting crack, open seams,
etc.)
Inspection must be conducted on the completed assemblies under conditions

similar to field conditions. This kind of inspection is known as functional
inspection. This inspection should take place after the last has been removed
from the shoe and the tacks on insole have been filled. The inspector should
carry out a general examination of the shoes and ,most important, should look
inside the shoe to check that there are no standing tacks, which should causes
an immediate and serious injury when the shoes are tried on. Any necessary
repairs should be carried out before the shoes are sent for finishing in the shoe
room. As with lasting inspection, no special equipment is required, but the
inspector should have the following equipment at his work place:
 Good lighting
 Work ticket holder
 Creep rubber pad for upper correcting
 Long reach pincer
 Small hand iron
 Hot air blower
 Pair of scissors
 Gas flame or spirit lamp
104 | P a g e
The pre inspector should follow the sequence used by lasting inspector, checking the
same points again; additionally the following points must be examined.
a. There must be no tacks let standing on the insole

b. The insole must be smooth and should not have become creased during lasting
c. The lining must be smooth and free from creases.
d. The soles and heels should be checked to ensure that they correspond to the
Specifications (height and length of heel, cleanliness o soles and heel etc.)
Inspection should be conducted prior to the shipment of the goods to the
customer. This kind of inspection is referred to as final inspection. The final
inspection must, as the name suggests, be the last operation before the shoes
are packed. The shoes are subjected to final inspection before they are allowed to
leave the factory.
The shoes therefore are inspected when the last operation in the shoe room has been
completed. Remember that the returns from the stores or form the customers are very
costly. It is better to identify any faults before the shoes leave the factory. The final
inspector carries the responsibility of ensuring that all quality standards have been met
.it is not normally the responsibility of the final inspector to carry out repairs; they should
return faulty or damaged shoe for rectification to the department concerned.
For this equipment he requires at this work place is limited to:
 Good lighting
 A pair of scissors
 A gas flame or spirit lamp for thread burning
 A polishing duster
All aspects of the shoes must be checked including those already checked during
previous inspections. Additionally the final inspector should check the following points.
 The sock should be accurately positioned, firmly bonded in place, and the lining and
sock should be free from adhesive. The stamping should be accurate.
 The upper leather finishing has been carried out according to the specification.
 All necessary labels and tickets have been attached.
 The pair wise and size ratios correspond to the order requirement.
3. Where to inspect (places of inspection)?
It is the area where the inspection is carried out so as to bring out the desired quality
with the minimum inspection and minimum cost. For example inspection of the finished
products should be performed as near as possible to the packing operations. This
avoids the need to transport and the likely risk of damage and deterioration to quality.
Such an inspection does not disturb production schedules and is generally faster.
4. How to inspect (inspection devices)?
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The accuracy of measurement, a prime factor in inspection, is achieved by use of
various types of measuring devices. The common measuring devices in the lasting
department are:
 Measuring instruments-like steel rulers

 Laboratory testing equipments, which may be destructive tests
 Non-destructive testing-this may be done visually for testing of flaws and defects in
materials without their physical destruction or without impairing their usefulness or
serviceability.
In the sole adhesion test, equipment is available which can be used to carry out
this test within the factory and without the need to destroy the sole (see fig.
1). The test should be carried out when the sole bond has had sufficient time to
fully develop (as defined by the adhesive manufacturer). It is not necessary to
test every pair, in fact testing 3 & 4 pairs per day is sufficient but it is how ever
important to repeat the test for different constructions and /or different types of
shoes & sole materials. Carrying out this simple test will give a good indication of
operations such as roughing, adhesive application, sole pressing are being
correctly carried out & that the adhesive, upper & sole materials are in order.
Fig 8 - SATRA Sole adhsion test
Remember that when one link is the chain of sole attaching operation is not perfect, the
sole will almost certainly become detached from the upper during wear. Until the
problem has discovered, many thousands of pairs could have been made, all of which
are potential returns.
5. How much to inspect (sampling or cent percent inspection)?
Inspection may be done either on each piece (called as cent per cent inspection) or on
samples (called as sampling inspection). The choice between the cent per cent and the
sampling inspection depend on the following factors:
 Cost of inspection versus cost of failure
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 Nature of inspection
 Lot size
 Manufacturing process
 Stage of inspection
 Functional importance of the item
 Stage of development
 Results of sampling inspection
 Re-inspection of segregated lots
 Vendor‘s quality rating
 Inspection performed as a moral check on stage inspectors or line inspectors
6. Who should inspect? (Qualification of inspector)
The qualifications, experience, type of training and the essential traits for the inspectors
should be specified. The inspector should be:
 Qualified
 Experienced
 Shall have adequate training
 Must use the right equipment.
It is normal practice in the footwear industry to inspect pair by pair at the end of the process.
The following guidelines will help ensure that the inspection is done correctly:
1. Do not inspect unless there is an approved sample signed by the customer.

2. A technical specification sheet for each style approved by the production
manager/customer.
3. Sufficient light should be available on a clean table. Lighting levels should be 1300 lux.
4. A list approved by the production manager showing major & minor defects
in cutting/sewing/lasting. The general rule is that no major defect is allowed
& 2-3 % minor defects are allowed. Without a list of major & minor defects
no inspection is possible. In case a major defect occurs not listed in the defect
list the quality controller should not be blamed. This new defect should be added to
the list for future lots.
5. Keep a tape, scale 12" & 6", scissor, crepe rubber piece & stitch gauge with you always.
6. Major defects should be destroyed or punched through so that they are not recycled
or mixed with good shoes. Keep the defective shoes with you till you get replacements.
7. Keep track of defects as shown in the quality inspection rep ort. This report
gives number of pairs defect wise. Look for the top three defects & take steps to
correct them immediately. Stoppage of production could also be one of such
measures. If the same defect recurs for 3 days the quality control system has
failed & the Quality Control inspector is responsible. One should remember that
recording of defects is not the main job. Corrective & preventive action is the
main job of the Quality Controller.
8. A 10 minute break is necessary after every two hours otherwise inspection
fatigue occurs. During these periods you may go to the line & look at ways to
107 | P a g e
correct quality problems.
9. A shoe must be inspected by looking at it with the toes facing you and with the
back strap flack seam facing you. Shoes must inspected pair wise always. Have a
10 minute discussion daily with production supervisors about major problems &
how to correct these. If these are not attended to, stop inspection & report to the
production manager. Quality inspectors suddenly change standards of inspection
when a complaint is received. Many times he rejects up to 70-80%. This is
simply ridiculous because with such a high rate of rejection it means that the
quality control system has collapsed and the Quality Control inspector is
responsible. The following charts must be clearly displayed at the Quality Control
table
a. Back height chart

b. Major and minor defects list
c. Key points raised by the customer if any
d. Approved sample
e. Defect file (see pt. 14)
Keep a defect file for each customer. Whenever a complaint is received keep a
copy in this file along with corrective & preventive action taken. The
purpose of this file is to catalogue defects & ensures that they do not recur.
Final inspection by itself is not enough. This must be supported by laboratory
test reports on materials & the final shoe. Fit and wear trials help immensely in
quality control. Remember that final inspection in only a postmortem. It is
much better to spend time on in process quality control. The rule "Do it right
the first time" is to be always followed.
HOW TO CONDUCT EXTERNAL INSPECTIONS
Many customers send their representatives for final inspection or hire third party who
are specialized in inspection work and has worldwide recognition. This procedure
covers fully packed consignments.
1. Inspection can only be done on the basis of an approved sample & technical
specifications from the customer.
2. A copy of the order should be available with packing instructions.
3. A copy of the invoice should be available showing style wise quantities. Packing
lists should also be available.
4. The consignment should preferably be kept in an inspection room with cartons
stacked serially as per packing list.
5. Count number of cartons to ensure that there is no shortage.
6. Check the quantities of the two lowest & two highest sizes of the order
physically i.e. if an order is from 5-11 sizes check quantity of sizes 5, 6, 10, 11
physically. Since these are edge sizes quantities will be small & can be checked
easily. This is to prevent any packing mistakes/malpractice.
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7. Draw samples for inspection as per random sampling table.
8. Draw pairs for inspection in all sizes.
9. Keep a list of major & minor defects & inspect shoes & tabulate results on the
inspection sheet.
10. Randomly selected samples may be sent to laboratory test for the following
tests:
 Sole adhesion
 Sole abrasions
 Sole flexing
 Cold crack if shoes going to cold climates the test is don at -
20° C
11. Checked cartons shall be sealed with special tamper proof tape. Keep record of
cartons opened & sizes checked.
12. Check carton labeling, boxes, box labels to ensure that they are as per order.
13. Issue certificate if the quality is satisfactory.
14.In case tests for PCP, Azodyes are required do these tests before issuing
certificate.
2.1.1 Test criteria for visual examination
1. Restitution of the last shape
 Longitudinal Profile
 Crow section
 Toe tip
 Heel seat
 Upper close
2. Stand of the shoe
 Point of tread
 Heel position
 Heel pitch
 Side pitch
3. Upper material (upper and lining material)
 Uniformity of color
 Uniformity of glaze
 Dirt and smudge
 Visible material defects
 Wrinkles
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 Loose grain
 Mechanical
4. Bottom material/bottom parts
 Uniformity of color
 Uniformity of texture
 Dirt and smudge
 Visible material
5. Defects Susceptibility of breakage Working-lip of upper
 Type of stitch
 Stitch density
 Edge distance
 Stitch pattern
 Thread tension
 Needle hole mechanical damages
6. Preparation of upper
 Skived edges
 Folded edges
 Edge inking
 Wiping action
2.1.2 Shoe fasteners
1. Lace fastener:
 Eyelet hole
 Reinforcement shoe lace
 Hook eyelet
 Lace strip
2. Hook and loop fastener:
 Version
 Adhesive
 Attachment
3. Elastic gusset stretchable length:
 Tying
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 Seam locking
 Band incorporation
4. Zipper:
 Running ability
 Coverage
 Incorporation lock
5. Buckles
 Attachment firmness
 Overlay Attachment
 Abrasion
6. Shoe assembly
 Vamp length
 Back height
 Upper closure
 Lasting wrinkles
 Pressure marks
 Grain coating
 Grain cracks
 Traces Distortion
7. Shoe bottom
 Heels cover
 Sole cementing
 Sole arching
 Position of top piece
 Sole finish
 Heel attachment
 Dirt and smudge
 Tacking Insole
 Wrinkles
 Top piece fastening
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Information Sheet- 3 Quality monitoring & Inspection
3.1 Quality monitoring & Inspection
This department is used to assembles all the components like upper, sole, insoles,
socks, etc. and convert to full shoe stage. The major operations in this department are:
1. Insole attaching.
2. Wiping/priming of sole
3. Mulling and toe lasting
4. Back height and seam adjustment
5. Adhesive application for seat and side lasting
6. Side lasting
7. Seat lasting
8. Marking cleaning and alcohol application on upper
9. Heat setting
10. Nail removal and lace cutting
11. Wrinkle chasing
12. Cleaning
13. Cream application
14. Ironing
15. Polishing with cotton brush
16. Roughing
17. Adhesive application 1st coat on upper
18. Adhesive application on sole
19. Adhesive application 2nd coat on upper
20. Drying
21. Reactivation and sole attachment
22. Cleaning and edge coloring
23. Chiller
24. Delasting
25. Sock attaching
26. Lining ironing
27. Cream application
28. Polishing with woolen brush
29. Lacing and paper insertion for shape retention
30. Inspection
31. Final brushing, Inspection and packing.
1. Insole attaching: Before attaching the insole one must check the specification of
insole required for that article. The insole must be properly moulded and should match
the bottom profile of the last. The insole must be of exact size and should be equal to
the feather edge of the last. The following process must be adopted to attach the insole.
First attach the nail in the heel area matching the insoles beveling angle with the last.
The second nail must be attached at the highest point of the last and the third nail must
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be attached 25mm away from the toe of the last. Better method of attaching the insole is
by hot melt adhesive.
2. Wiping/priming of sole: Wiping and priming process is very important to get good
sole adhesion. These are two different processes. In wiping process the sole is only
cleaned of dust, grease and plasticizers. Thus this process must be done just 5 minutes
before applying adhesive on the sole. In priming process the sole is made compatible
with the polyurethane adhesive. The primer changes the chemical property of the
surface of the sole. Thus the TPR primer must applied at least 30 minutes before (better
1 hour) applying adhesive on the sole. The wiping is done for PVC and PU sole. The
priming process is required for TPR, Rubber and EVA soles.
3. Mulling and toe lasting: The process of mulling makes the leather and toe-puff of
the upper soft and malleable. The process of mulling is very important. If proper mulling
is not done the leather may crack during the toe lasting operation. If the toe puff is not
soft enough there will be wrinkles in the toe area after toe lasting. Toe lasting is the
most critical operation in the lasting department. So there should be a quality check
point after this operation. This will improve the quality of the product as well as reduce
the final rejection to minimum. Things that must be checked after toe lasting are:
 The alignment of the upper

 Wrinkles on the toe area
 Folded insole
 Upper cracking
 Back seam must be straight
 Topline must be tight
 Clean feather edge
 Lasting margin must be well pasted
 There should be no impression of toe-pad and toe band on the upper
4. Back height and seam adjustment: In this operation the back height is adjusted as
per the specification and the back seam is placed at the centre of the back part of the
last. This operation can be removed if there is good counter moulding done with
flanging device. These days many buyers ask for tack less shoe manufacturing. In
this nails are not used in any process. Things that must be checked after this operation:
 The back seam must be straight and in the centre of the back part of the last.
 The back height must be as per the specification.
 The back height in the particular pair must be equal. 1mm difference in back height
is not accepted.
5. Adhesive application for seat and side lasting: In this operation adhesive is
applied on the insole and the lasting margin of the upper. One must be careful in
application of adhesive because if more adhesive is put on the margin then this
adhesive will come inside the shoe. Secondly there will be chances that the shoe upper
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may stick to the last and if will become difficult to delast. Sometimes the shoes get
damaged while delasting.
6. Side lasting: In this operation the lasting margin of the waist area is pasted with
insole. One must see while doing this operation that the inside topline is 2-3mm higher
than the outside topline after this operation. One must also check the inside waist area
where normally there is deep curve that the upper properly sits on the last in that area.
7. Seat lasting: In this process the back part of the upper is attached with the insole.
This process is done by seat lasting machine. After this operation one must check that
the back seam is straight and the back height has not shifted. The operation numbers
5, 6 and 7 can be done in one time if the factory has a seat and side lasting
machine. This will increase the productivity as it will reduce 4 workers applying
adhesive and doing side lasting.
8. Marking cleaning and alcohol application on upper: This operation is not required
if the upper pattern is good, the heat-setting machine is functioning properly with water
vapour. The operation of marking cleaning must be done closing.
9. Heat setting: In this process the lasted upper is passed through heat-setting
machine which has hot humid air blowing inside it. This relaxes the stress and pulls
given to upper during the lasting process. Thus the upper takes the shape of the last
after heat setting even if the last is removed. Thus the main purpose of heat setting is
proper shape retention.
RECOMMENDED HEAT SETTING CONDITIONS (HIGH VELOCITY AIR)
Suede, Nubuck and most grain Moist air at 120C or,

leathers Dry air at 120-130C
PU coated leathers and splits Dry air at 120-130 C
PU Patent and PVC coated leathers Dry air at 100C
PU coated fabrics Dry air at 120-130 C
PVC coated fabrics Dry air at 100C
Fabrics Dry air at 100C
10. Nail removal and lace cutting: This is simple operation to cut temporary lacing and
removing the nails used to attach the insole and to adjust the back height. One must be
very careful in removing the insole nails. If any nail is left then it will protruding out inside
the shoe and may injure the person wearing the shoe. Secondly while cutting the thread
the upper should not get damaged. This operation of removing nails must be slowly
phased out as in future all good buyers will insist on the shoe making process
without tacks.
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11. Wrinkle chasing: This process should not be done in all the shoes. It should be
done only when required. If the upper pattern is good and the lasting is proper this
operation is not required. One must be careful in doing this operation that it does not
burn the upper leather (light color leather) or the stitches of the upper.
12. Cleaning: Should be done in closing
13. Cream application: The cream must be properly and evenly applied on the full
lasted upper.
14. Ironing: The ironing must be done on full lasted upper. The temperature of the iron
should not be more than 75 deg centigrade. One should be careful that the leather or
stitches are not burnt during this operation. Iron temperature must be checked on waste
piece of leather to prevent damage of lasted shoe.
15. Polishing with cotton brush: Cotton brush with abrasive wax must be used.
Brushing must be done at low speed. The whole lasted upper must be equally brushed.
Unequal brushing will give high and low shine areas in the shoe.
16. Scouring and Roughing: This is two different processes done at the same
machine. This machine has two different wheels. One wheel will have emery paper and
the other will be of wire brush. In the process of scouring the extra material in toe and
the seat area is removed with help of emery paper. This process is to make the lasting
margin flat. Once the lasting margin is flat the process of roughing starts. This must be
done by wire brush. The wire brush only removes the grain and raises the leather fibre
for better adhesive penetration.
Presently here both the operations are done by emery paper. This not only
removes the grain but also remove some amount of leather. This weakens the
upper material. After sole bonding if the sole is removed there is greater chance
that the bond failure will be due to upper material failure.
17. Adhesive application 1st coat on upper: Before applying the adhesive the lasting
margin must be cleaned so that there is no leather dust in the lasting margin. The
adhesive must be mixed with 4-5% of hardener (cross-linking agent). The adhesive
should not be very thick and should penetrate the leather easily. (If the adhesive is
very thick the penetration will not be good and there will be chances the upper
layer of adhesive gets dry and inside the solvent will be trapped and will not dry.)
18. Adhesive application on sole: Soles made of non-porous materials like PVC, PU,
TPR etc. only one thin coat of adhesive must be applied. In case of porous material like
leather soles two coats of adhesive is required after a gap of 10 minutes.
19. Adhesive application 2nd coat on upper: The second coat of adhesive must be
applied after 5 minutes of after the 1st coat of adhesive application.
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20. Drying: The adhesive must be completely dried before sole attaching. This normally
takes 10 to 15 minutes to dry in normal weather, but if the humidity is high or
temperature is low it may take more time. Natural drying is the best by now a day‘s
dryers have come which can dry the adhesive faster to get higher productivity. While
using dryer one must not keep the temperature very high as this may cause solvent
trap. (Upper layer adhesive dries and in inside it is still wet).
21. Reactivation and sole attachment: The sole must be re-activated once its
completely dry. The re-activation temperature is 80-85 deg for the PU adhesive. (Some
people have misconception that the temperature of re-activation depends on the soling
material.) Thus the surface temperature of the PU adhesive should be around 80-85
deg. And not the sole. This is reason flash re-activators should be used that on heats
the adhesive on the surface of the sole. If the sole is heated to this temperature it may
get damaged.
After re-activation the sole is attached with the lasted upper. The process must be done
immediately after re-activation or the sole may cool. The re-activation temperature is the
glass transition temperature for the PU adhesive at this temperature the PU adhesive
makes the best cohesive bond. After attaching the sole by hand check the alignment
and also see that the lasted upper is fit in the sole cavity. If everything is fine put the
upper in the sole press. Sole pressing must be for 15-16 sec for each lasted upper and
sole. The pressure of the machine must be between 3-6 bars. The pressure depends on
the hardness and the thickness of the sole. Soft and thin sole requires less pressure
while hard and heavy sole requires more pressure. The sole re-activator and the sole
press must be monitored twice daily. Two things to be monitored are the temperature of
the adhesive and the pressure of sole press is equally distributed or not. These things
can be checked by temperature meter and by carbon paper test. The machine also
must be calibrated once in 3-6 months. Apart from these test the sole bond strength
must also be checked twice on daily basis. This can be done by SATRA Sole Adhesion
tester. If the bond strength is less than the set standards the production must be
immediately stopped and the reason for low bond strength must be found. The problem
must be solved immediately and also take corrective action that this problem does not
occur in future. This operation is very important because more than 80% customer
complain is of sole opening.
22. Cleaning and edge coloring
The edges must be cleaned properly and there should be no adhesive on the feather
edges. Once the edges are cleaned the feather edge is colored with a fine brush at the
joint of sole and upper.
23. Chiller
The upper must be passed through the chiller so that the sole becomes cool after sole
attaching. If the sole is not properly cooled then the sole may open at the time of
delasting
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24. Delasting
This is the process of removal of the last from the lasted shoe. Care must be taken that
the upper is not damaged during delasting.
3.1.1 INSPECTION OF FINAL SHOE
100% footwear inspection is essential. Not single footwear must be packed without
being inspected. At final inspection the inspection should be tight and highly experience
person must be assigned this job. He must have a good knowledge of footwear and
also knowledge of the quality standards required for inspecting the footwear.
1. Check for all leather defects. The inspector must have clear knowledge that which
defects of leather are acceptable in which areas. For example vein marks are not
accepted in toe and vamp area but be taken in the inside quarter, similarly little loose
leather can be taken in inside quarter or the counter area. Similarly the vamp area must
have fine grain structure and the bold grain can be taken quarter and counter area.
2. Check for all stitching defects: All though all the uppers checked in stitching
department for stitching defects but sometimes the stitches come out during the
handling of upper in lasting or the stitches get burnt during ironing process.
3. Impression of toe puff & counter stiffener: There should be no impression of toe-
puff and counter stiffener on the shoe. There can be two reasons for the impression,
firstly the skiving of the toe-puff and counter stiffener is not correct and secondly the
toe-puff and counter stiffener material is too thick for the upper leather. Like for sheep
leather the thickness of toe-puff should 6 to 8 mm.
4. Floating toe-puff: Sometimes the toe-puff does not come under the lasting margin
and we there is only leather left in the toe area which makes it weak. There can be two
reasons of floating toe-puff namely the toe-puff placed too far in the upper and secondly
the toe-puff may move upwards during the toe lasting process.
5. Broken toe-puff: Sometimes the toe-puff breaks at the toe lasting machine due to
poor quality of toe-puff material or if the height of insole rest is high. If the mulling is not
proper the toe puff may crack at the toe lasting machines.
6. Counter stiffener up to the top line: While placing the counter stiffener it should be
placed in the centre of the back part of the upper and the top part of the stiffener must
touch the top line stitching.
7. Wrinkles in the heel grip: Wrinkles in heel grip is caused by following reasons
namely, improper counter moulding, lining fitting not proper or lining patterns not
correct.
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8. Wrinkles in Quarter lining: Poor pasting of lining with upper, improper lining pattern.
9. Alignment of shoe: The toe cap should be 90deg. Of the central line of last, in wing
cap the centre of the wing should be in the centre of the last. The eye-lets must be
straight. The size of all components must be matching in the pair i.e. the toe cap of both
the pairs must be equal.
10. Back Seam or strap: The back seam or strap must be in the centre of the back part
of the last and must be straight.
11. Back Height: The back height of the upper must be as per the specification given in
the sample. Apart from the sample the back height in the pair must be exactly the same.
More than 1mm difference is not acceptable.
12. Wrinkles in Featheredge: Even minor wrinkles in the toe area are not acceptable.
The shoe must have clean featheredge and there should be no wrinkles all around.
13. Height of the quarter top-line: The inside quarter top line must be 2-3mm higher
than the outside quarter top line.
14. Shape of top-line: The top line must be tight and snappy. It should match the
shape of the last.
15. Adhesive on lining: There can be adhesive stains on the lining or heel grip. The
reasons of adhesive stains are excessive adhesive application during side lasting
operation or the adhesive spread during the socks attaching operation.
16. Over roughing: Roughing visible after attaching the sole. There can be two
possible reasons. The operator is not trained is doing excess roughing or while
attaching the sole the sole is not correctly placed.
17. Sole alignment: The sole is not centrally aligned. The centre of the toe area and
the back area of the sole not matching with toe and back area of the last.
18. Upper not fit in the sole cavity: Sometimes the upper do not fit inside the cavity of
the sole. The upper material may be too thick or the placement of the sole not done
correctly.
19. Sole Adhesion: Check the sole adhesion strength at least twice daily with help of
SATRA sole adhesion tester. The adhesion strength must be equal to or more the
specified standard. Normally when the machine is not available just try to open the sole
at toe and the ball point areas, if it opens easily then the sole adhesion is poor.
20. Sock attachment: The sock must be properly attached inside the shoe. It must be
centrally aligned. The printing must be clear. There should be no adhesive marks on the
socks or lining.
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21. Tissue Paper insertion: The paper must be properly inserted inside the shoe. The
paper must be folded in such a way that it takes the shape of the front part of the shoe.
If the folding is improper then it de-shapes the shoe.
22. Rocking: The shoe must not rock. The major reason of rocking is improper
moulding of insole. The other reason can be that the heel height not matching with last
or the adjustment of sole press is not right.
23. Finishing and overall look: The finishing of the shoe must be as per the buyer‘s
requirement. The shoes must have equal shine pair-wise. The grains must be matching
pair-wise.
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Information Sheet- 4 Planning in Hand lasting Department
4.1 Production Planning and Control Functions
All of the four basic phases of control of manufacture are easily identified in production
planning and control. The plan for the processing of materials through the plant is
established by the functions of process planning, loading, and scheduling. The function
of dispatching puts the plan into effect; that is, operations are started in accordance with
the plant. Actual performance is then compared to the planned performance, and, when
required, corrective action is taken.
1. Process Planning (Routing)
The determination of where each operation on a component part, subassembly, or

assembly is to be performed results in a route for the movement of a manufacturing lot
through the factory.
2. Loading
Once the route has been established, the work required can be loaded against the
selected machine or workstation. The total time required to perform the operation is
computed by multiplying the unit operation times given on the standard process sheet
by the number of parts to be processed. This total time is then added to the work
already planned for the workstation.
3. Scheduling
Scheduling is the last of the planning functions. It determines when an operation is to be

performed, or when work is to be completed; the difference lies in the detail of the
scheduling procedure. In a centralized control situation - where all process planning,
loading, and scheduling for the plant are done in a central office- the details of the
schedule may specify the starting and finishing time for an operation. On the other
hand, the central schedule may simply give a completion time for the work in a given
department.
4. Reporting or Follow – up
The manufacturing activity of a plant is said to be ―in control‖ when the actual
performance is within the objectives of the planned performance. When jobs are started
and completed on schedule.
PLANNING IN LASTING DEPARTMENT
The monthly planning and loading is done the centralized planning department. The
flow chart of work in a footwear factory is given below:
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CUTTING
CLOSING
LASTING
FINISHING & PACKING
Fig 9 – Flow chart of work process in footwear factory
Normally each department is given a weekly plan of production. Based on this the plan
for the department is prepared.
LOADING IN LASTING DEPARTMENT

Loading in lasting department is based on three variables –
 No. of lasts in the department

 No. of workers in the department
 Machine capacity
 Availability of material
1. No. of last
Last is the main tool on which the footwear is made. Lasts can be of different shape and
sizes. The footwear must be lasted on the same last on which it is designed. The
capacity of lasting will depend on number of pairs of last and also the size assortment of
the last. Suppose you have 200 last but only 10 pairs of size 8 last then only ten pairs of
size 8 can be lasted at a time, even though you may be having 100 pairs of upper. The
other concept is of last rotation. Last rotation means number of times a last can be
used in one days (8 hr) production. Normally in hand lasting the last can be rotated 1.5
to 2 times a day depending on the design and construction of the shoes. If the factories
do not have a heat setter the lasted upper has to be left on the last for 24 hrs. In these
cases the last rotation may reduce to less than one. Thus while the scheduling the size
assortment of upper and last must be taken in consideration.
2. No. of workers & machine capacity. The sequence of operation for hand lasting is:
 Insole attaching
 Upper preparation
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 Lasting – complete (toe, seat and side)
Normally these operations are done by one person. The capacity of one person is
between 8 to 20 pairs depending on the design and construction. In Good year welted
construction it may be 1 or 2.
Other operations
 Heat setting & wrinkle chasing – 1

 Tack removal (insole) -1
 Roughing and scouring -1
 Sole preparation -1
 Adhesive application upper - 2
 Adhesive application on sole - 1
 Sole attaching -1
 Delasting -1
The maximum capacity of hand lasting department with one set of machine can be
approximately 700 pairs as the sole press can do only this much sole pressing. People
can be increased and decreased depending on the production. Thus for producing 700
hundred pairs of shoes, there must be 70 hand lasters (if one hand laster can last
10prs.) Thus total man power required will be 70+9=79 persons.
MATERIAL PLANNING
Lasting is also known as assembly department. All the components prepared in other
departments are assembled in lasting department.
Components required in lasting –
 Upper
 Sole
 Insole
 Toe puff
 Counter stiffener.
Thus once the weekly plan is received by the lasting in-charge he check the availability
of these material. The material available must be in same size assortment with the
uppers. Even if one of the materials is not there then the production for that batch
cannot be scheduled.
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LAYOUT OF LASTING DEPARTMENT
The layout of the department will depend on the space and the design of the space. It
can be straight conveyor or are circular conveyor.
A circular conveyor is preferred over straight conveyor as the lasts are heavy and have
to be brought back to the feeding point after de-lasting.
De-lasting Feeding area
Fig 10 – Circular conveyor system

The arrow shows the movement of last from de-lasting to feeding in circular conveyor.
Feeding area
De-lasting
Fig 11 – Straight conveyor system
Thus we see that in straight conveyor the movement of last after de-lasting is more than
that of the circular conveyor. The other advantage is that the circular conveyor takes
half the space in length that of the straight conveyor. The other aspects that are taken in
consideration are –
 Location of stores
 Location of last racks
 Location of finished goods store
 Lighting of the room
 Air flow of the room
Air flow must be good especially in places where the operation of adhesive application
and sole preparation is done to remove the fumes coming from the organic solvents.
DAILY PRODUCTION REPORT:
A daily production report or production report is a term for the form filled out each day
of production to summarize what occurred that day. There is no standard template for a
production report and each activity usually has an original template, often created
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before production begins by the manager of the company. Besides superficial
differences, most forms record the same information and are simply a series of blank
tables generally created in Excel sheet. The purpose of this form is to keep track of a
production's progress and expenses. It is finally sent to the production head executive
and is permanently filed for necessary immediate action or for any statistical database
generation if required.
Need of production report:
In order to communicate effectively, the knowledge and skills you acquire are of little
use to others. You have to be able to collect information, organize it, and present it in a
logical and concise form. Regardless of a report's target personnel, the structure and
organization of the report must convey the exact meaning for which the report is
prepared. The daily Production Report given to management will give the idea about the
activities carried out at the shop floor for the day. The Production Manager can restrict
or allow any excess production. With the help of the Production report, the management
can decide the sales plan also. Thus a small daily production report may turn into
effective and organized working.
Production report of lasting department:
Lasting department being a part of the total production activity of shoe factory, quality of
production and production per day till packing is very important among all departments.
Two most important reports that must be generated by the supervisors indicate capacity
utilization of a conveyor, order execution of a particular style for a particular customer,
which further indicate necessary action needed in case of any rush orders or any
stoppages due to any reason whatsoever. The reports generated by the lasting
departments are:
1. Inspection/rejection report
2. Daily and hourly feeding and packing report
Inspection /rejection report
Daily Inspection Report format for final inspection
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PEACOCK LEATHER FINAL SHOE INSPECTION REPORT
LASTING LINE________ DATE_______________
TOTAL PAIRS CHECKED_________________ REJECTION________________
S.NO. REASON OF REJECTION ARTICLE NO. ARTICLE NO. TOTAL
1 UPPER DAMAGE
2 STITCHING PROBLEMS
3 ALIGNMENT PROBLEM
4 LEATHER DEFECT
5 IMPRESSION OF TOE PUFF
6 WRINKLES ON LINING
7 SOLE BOND STRENGTH
8 BURNT STITCH
9 GRAIN/COLOUR MATCH
10 BACK HEIGHT
11 ROUGHING
12 ROCKING
13 BACK SEAM STRAIGHT
14 SADDLE ALIGNMENT
15 SOLE ALIGNMENT
OUTSIDE QUARTER 2MM
16 LOWER THAN INSIDE
17 FINISHING
18 DIRTY UPPER
19 SOCK ATTACHING
20 OTHERS
Fig: 12 - An illustrative in process inspection/rejection report
To achieve consistency in quality, inspections are mandatory in various stages of the

lasting department. Due to deviation in the production related factors mistakes are
bound to occur and defective shoes are separated during inspection and categorized in
reparable and non-reparable category. The components of repairing are either cut or re-
processed or re- issued and the defective pair is run through various processes.
Therefore a format must be maintained so that the excess cost of the repairing can be
controlled and ultimate cost of production can be computed. An illustrative format
(fig:12) of in process inspection / rejection report used in the factory is shown in the
figure
125 | P a g e
Daily feeding and daily packing report:
To monitor production progress and to track the production schedule in the lasting
department, it is mandatory that the department shall be able to utilize its capacity in full
and a report of the output is generated on daily basis. Hence the department shall be
given adequate feeding of shoe uppers and other components so that the idle time of
machines and operators are minimized.
Fig 13 - Daily Production Report
At the same time the output of the finished goods are maximized. The daily packing
report primarily indicates the progress of completion of an order or multiple orders.
Combining input and output data in the report also indicate work in progress and based
on the available report, corrective action can be initiated to achieve pre-determined
production objectives. An illustrative format is given below in the figure 13.
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Information Sheet- 5 House keeping
5.1 House keeping
Effective housekeeping can eliminate some workplace hazards and help get a job done
safely and properly. Poor housekeeping can frequently contribute to accidents by hiding
hazards that cause injuries. If the sight of paper, debris, clutter and spills is accepted as
normal, then other more serious health and safety hazards may be taken for granted.
Housekeeping is not just cleanliness. It includes keeping work areas neat and orderly;
maintaining halls and floors free of slip and trip hazards; and removing of waste
materials (e.g., paper, cardboard) and other fire hazards from work areas. It also
requires paying attention to important details such as the layout of the whole workplace,
aisle marking, the adequacy of storage facilities, and maintenance. Good housekeeping
is also a basic part of accident and fire prevention. Effective housekeeping is an
ongoing operation: it is not a hit-and-miss cleanup done occasionally. Periodic "panic"
cleanups are costly and ineffective in reducing accidents.
Purpose of housekeeping
Poor housekeeping can be a cause of accidents, such as:
 tripping over loose objects on floors, stairs and platforms

 being hit by falling objects
 slipping on greasy, wet or dirty surfaces
 striking against projecting, poorly stacked items or misplaced material
 cutting, puncturing, or tearing the skin of hands or other parts of the body on
projecting nails, wire or steel strapping
To avoid these hazards, a workplace must "maintain" order throughout a workday.

Although this effort requires a great deal of management and planning, the benefits are
many.
Benefits of good housekeeping. Effective housekeeping results in:
 reduced handling to ease the flow of materials

 fewer tripping and slipping accidents in clutter-free and spill-free work areas
 decreased fire hazards
 lower worker exposures to hazardous substances (e.g. dusts, vapours)
 better control of tools and materials, including inventory and supplies
 more efficient equipment cleanup and maintenance
 better hygienic conditions leading to improved health
 more effective use of space
 reduced property damage by improving preventive maintenance
 less janitorial work
 improved morale
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 improved productivity (tools and materials will be easy to find)
5.1.1 Planning of good housekeeping
A good housekeeping program plans and manages the orderly storage and movement
of materials from point of entry to exit. It includes a material flow plan to ensure minimal
handling. The plan also ensures that work areas are not used as storage areas by
having workers move materials to and from work areas as needed. Part of the plan
could include investing in extra bins and more frequent disposal. The costs of this
investment could be offset by the elimination of repeated handling of the same material
and more effective use of the workers' time. Often, ineffective or insufficient storage
planning results in materials being handled and stored in hazardous ways. Knowing the
plant layout and the movement of materials throughout the workplace can help plan
work procedures.
Worker training is an essential part of any good housekeeping program. Workers need
to know how to work safely with the products they use. They also need to know how to
protect other workers such as by posting signs (e.g., "Wet - Slippery Floor") and
reporting any unusual conditions. Housekeeping order is "maintained" not "achieved."
Cleaning and organization must be done regularly, not just at the end of the shift.
Integrating housekeeping into jobs can help ensure this is done. A good housekeeping
program identifies and assigns responsibilities for the following:
 clean up during the shift

 day-to-day cleanup
 waste disposal
 removal of unused materials
 inspection to ensure cleanup is complete
Do not forget out-of-the-way places such as shelves, basements, sheds, and boiler
rooms that would otherwise be overlooked. The orderly arrangement of operations,
tools, equipment and supplies is an important part of a good housekeeping program.
The final addition to any housekeeping program is inspection. It is the only way to check
for deficiencies in the program so that changes can be made. The documents on
workplace inspection checklists provide a general guide and examples of checklists for
inspecting offices and manufacturing facilities.
Elements of effective housekeeping
1. Dust and Dirt Removal
In some jobs, enclosures and exhaust ventilation systems may fail to collect dust, dirt
and chips adequately. Vacuum cleaners are suitable for removing light dust and dirt.
Industrial models have special fittings for cleaning walls, ceilings, ledges, machinery,
and other hard-to-reach places where dust and dirt may accumulate.
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Special-purpose vacuums are useful for removing hazardous substances. For example,
vacuum cleaners fitted with HEPA (high efficiency particulate air) filters may be used to
capture fine particles of asbestos or fibreglass. Dampening (wetting) floors or using
sweeping compounds before sweeping reduces the amount of airborne dust. The dust
and grime that collect in places like shelves, piping, conduits, light fixtures, reflectors,
windows, cupboards and lockers may require manual cleaning. Compressed air should
not be used for removing dust, dirt or chips from equipment or work surfaces.
2. Employee Facilities
Employee facilities need to be adequate, clean and well maintained. Lockers are
necessary for storing employees' personal belongings. Washroom facilities require
cleaning once or more each shift. They also need to have a good supply of soap, towels
plus disinfectants, if needed. If workers are using hazardous materials, employee
facilities should provide special precautions such as showers, washing facilities and
change rooms. Some facilities may require two locker rooms with showers between.
Using such double locker rooms allows workers to shower off workplace contaminants
and prevents them from contaminating their "street clothes" by keeping their work
clothes separated from the clothing that they wear home. Smoking, eating or drinking in
the work area should be prohibited where toxic materials are handled. The eating area
should be separate from the work area and should be cleaned properly each shift.
3. Surfaces
Floors: Poor floor conditions are a leading cause of accidents so cleaning up spilled oil
and other liquids at once is important. Allowing chips, shavings and dust to accumulate
can also cause accidents. Trapping chips, shavings and dust before they reach the floor
or cleaning them up regularly can prevent their accumulation. Areas that cannot be
cleaned continuously, such as entrance ways, should have anti-slip flooring. Keeping
floors in good order also means replacing any worn, ripped, or damaged flooring that
poses a tripping hazard.
Walls: Light-colored walls reflect light while dirty or dark-colored walls absorb light.
Contrasting colours warn of physical hazards and mark obstructions such as pillars.
Paint can highlight railings, guards and other safety equipment, but should never be
used as a substitute for guarding. The program should outline the regulations and
standards for colours.
4. Maintain Light Fixtures
Dirty light fixtures reduce essential light levels. Clean light fixtures can improve lighting
efficiency significantly.
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5. Aisles and Stairways
Aisles should be wide enough to accommodate people and vehicles comfortably and
safely. Aisle space allows for the movement of people, products and materials. Warning
signs and mirrors can improve sight-lines in blind corners. Arranging aisles properly
encourages people to use them so that they do not take shortcuts through hazardous
areas. Keeping aisles and stairways clear is important. They should not be used for
temporary "overflow" or "bottleneck" storage. Stairways and aisles also require
adequate lighting.
6. Spill Control
The best way to control spills is to stop them before they happen. Regularly cleaning
and maintaining machines and equipment is one way. Another is to use drip pans and
guards where possible spills might occur. When spills do occur, it is important to clean
them up immediately. Absorbent materials are useful for wiping up greasy, oily or other
liquid spills. Used absorbents must be disposed of properly and safely.
7. Tools and Equipment
Tool housekeeping is very important, whether in the tool room, on the rack, in the yard,
or on the bench. Tools require suitable fixtures with marked locations to provide orderly
arrangement, both in the tool room and near the work bench. Returning them promptly
after use reduces the chance of being misplaced or lost. Workers should regularly
inspect, clean and repair all tools and take any damaged or worn tools out of service.
8. Maintenance
The maintenance of buildings and equipment may be the most important element of
good housekeeping. Maintenance involves keeping buildings, equipment and machinery
in safe, efficient working order and in good repair. This includes maintaining sanitary
facilities and regularly painting and cleaning walls. Broken windows, damaged doors,
defective plumbing and broken floor surfaces can make a workplace look neglected;
these conditions can cause accidents and affect work practices. So it is important to
replace or fix broken or damaged items as quickly as possible. A good maintenance
program provides for the inspection, maintenance, upkeep and repair of tools,
equipment, machines and processes.
9. Waste Disposal
The regular collection, grading and sorting of scrap contribute to good housekeeping
practices. It also makes it possible to separate materials that can be recycled from
those going to waste disposal facilities. Allowing material to build up on the floor wastes
time and energy since additional time is required for cleaning it up. Placing scrap
containers near where the waste is produced encourages orderly waste disposal and
130 | P a g e
makes collection easier. All waste receptacles should be clearly labeled (e.g., recyclable
glass, plastic, scrap metal, etc.).
10. Storage
Good organization of stored materials is essential for overcoming material storage

problems whether on a temporary or permanent basis. There will also be fewer strain
injuries if the amount of handling is reduced, especially if less manual materials
handling is required. The location of the stockpiles should not interfere with work but
they should still be readily available when required. Stored materials should allow at
least one meter (or about three feet) of clear space under sprinkler heads. Stacking
cartons and drums on a firm foundation and cross tying them, where necessary,
reduces the chance of their movement. Stored materials should not obstruct aisles,
stairs, exits, fire equipment, emergency eyewash fountains, emergency showers, or first
aid stations. All storage areas should be clearly marked. Flammable, combustible, toxic
and other hazardous materials should be stored in approved containers in designated
areas that are appropriate for the different hazards that they pose. Storage of materials
should meet all requirements specified in the fire codes and the regulations of
environmental and occupational health and safety agencies in your jurisdiction.
Workplace Housekeeping Checklist
DO:
 Minimize fire hazards by keeping workplace free of accumulated combustible

materials and waste.
 Ensure that exits and aisles are clear of obstructions to allow easy evacuation
of the building.
 Place all trash and scrap in proper containers.
 Keep oily rags in covered metal containers.
 Dispose of hazardous materials in approved marked containers.
 Store equipment and materials in their assigned location.
 Clean air vents and filters to maintain ventilation efficiency.
 Ensure that boxes, drums, and piles are located on a firm foundation and
properly stacked.
 Clean up tools and unused materials after finishing a job or before leaving the
job site.
 Clean up spills promptly according to procedures, using personal protective
equipment (PPE) where necessary.
 Report hazards such as uneven boards, cracks, burnt-out lights. Fix
immediately.
 Bundle hoses and cables when not in use.
 Place empty containers and pallets in designated locations.
 Dump small containers into larger ones.
 Keep only enough combustible materials at job site for job at hand.
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DO NOT:
 Do not pile material around fire extinguishers, sprinklers, or emergency exits.

 Do not leave clean-up to last few minutes of shift or day.
 Do not clean equipment without "locking out."
 Do not reach into waste containers. Dump contents or remove bag.
 Do not blow off dust with compressed air. Use a vacuum or brush.
 Do not collect broken glass and metal straps in plastic bags.
 Do not use bare hands when collecting waste. Wear gloves to avoid cuts and
splinters.
 Do not place materials on stairs.
 Do not use kegs or boxes as chairs or ladders.
132 | P a g e
1. The re-activation temperature is _______ deg for the PU adhesive.
2. The temperature of the iron should not be more than __________ centigrade.
3. The process of __________ makes the leather and toe-puff of the upper soft and
malleable.
4. TPR primer must be applied at least _________ minutes before applying adhesive on
the sole.
5. All shoe s shall be subjected to ______________ after lasting to ensure that they
have been lasted properly and that all proportions are accurate.
Q1. What is roughing? (1)

Q2. What is scouring? (1)
Q3. Name four operations in which abrasive paper is used? (2)
Q4. What the different types of roughing wheels used for upper roughing for sole
attachment? (2)
Q5. What is wiping? (1)
Q6. What is priming? (1)
Q7. Why carbon paper test is done? What is the correct method of doing the carbon
paper test? (3)
Q8. How sole adhesion is checked after sole press? (4)
Q9. What are the things one must inspect in final shoe? (5)
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Assignment
Instructions:
1. Answer all questions

2. The total marks for assignment is 50.
3. Submit the assignment to concerned faculty within week after the module is complete.
4. The marks obtained in assignment will have weight-age in internal assessment.
5. The assignment must be hand written.
Assignment Details:
1. Fill in the blanks 20 Points

1. In direct attachment the ________ is directly attached to the upper.
2. The _________ is a foot model with dimensions and shape similar to the anatomical
foot.
3. _________is the layer of the material which covers the bottom of the shoe and is the
walking surface of that shoe.
4. ______________are the Intermediate sole between outsole and upper and it helps to
Increases shock absorption & add comfort to the shoe.
5. The function of the __________ is basically to provide shape to the forepart of the
shoe.
6. In lasting operation two-dimensional leather is given a ____dimensional shape.
7. Finishing covers the _____ that might have occurred during the production process.
8. The _______ of the products is checked at all stages of production and also before
they are packaged and boxed ready for distribution.
9. Toe-puff must be _________ skived and must be tapered to zero.
10. Ribbed insole is used for __________ construction footwear.
11. Skeleton insoles are normally used for __________.
12. The size of the insole must _________ the same as the bottom of the last.
13. After fifth and sixth pull check that the inside quarter top-line is _______ higher than
the outside top-line.
14. Back height is adjusted in the __________ drafting pull.
15. _________ tacks are used for lasting of toe and waist area..
16. Tacks removed after the ____________ operations.
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17. The re-activation temperature is _______ deg for the PU adhesive.
18. The process of __________ makes the leather and toe-puff of the upper soft and
malleable.
19. TPR primer must be applied at least _________ minutes before applying adhesive
on the sole.
20. All shoe s shall be subjected to ______________ after lasting to ensure that they
have been lasted properly and that all proportions are accurate.
Short Answers:
Q1. What is roughing? (1)
Q2. What is scouring? (1)
Q3. Name four operations in which abrasive paper is used? (2)
Q4. What the different types of roughing wheels used for upper roughing for sole
attachment? (2)
Q5. What is wiping? (1)
Q6. What is priming? (1)
Q7. Why carbon paper test is done? What is the correct method of doing the carbon
paper test? (3)
Q8. How sole adhesion is checked after sole press? (4)
Q9. What are the things one must inspect in final shoe? (5)
Q10 What are the different methods of lasting? (3)
Q11. Which type of footwear can be made by lasting up method? (2)
Q12 Draw the diagram showing the California construction? (5)
Q13 Draw the diagram showing the Goodyear welted construction? (5)
Q14 Draw the flow chart of the shoe manufacturing process? (5)
135 | P a g e
Further reading
1. ―Comprehensive Footwear Technology‖ Somenath Ganguly, (2005), Kolkata.- Indian

Leather Technologist Association.
2. ‖Introduction to modern footwear technology‖ B. Venkatappaiah, (1997), Chennai. -
GOTETI GRAPHICS
3. ‖Text book of footwear manufacture‖ J.H. Thornton, (1970), London. -National Trade
Press Ltd.
4. ―Simplified Lasting Systems‖. G.A Charistie (1973)‖ J.BBSI.
5. ―Heat setting in Modern Shoe factories‖ Steve cross. (1995) SATRA.
6. ‖Force and String lasting‖ Mark Southam (1994) SATRA.U K
7. ―Manual of shoe making‖ R.G. Miller, (1989) England-Clarks ltd.
8. ―Information systems for footwear manufacturing‖ By Nicholas Brown
9. ―Handbook of Footwear Design and Manufacture‖ Edited by A Luximon (Wood head
Publishing)
10. ―International leather and footwear‖ guide By ―Oshina‖
11. ―American last making‖ By ―Karl C. Adrian‖
136 | P a g e
Bibliography
137 | P a g e

Final - Basic Lasting Technology

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COVER PAGE

BASIC LASTING TECHNOLOGY

COURSE: B. DES (FOOTWEAR TECHNOLOGY)

COMPILED BY: Ajay Sahay, Neeraj

REVIEWED BY: Aritra Das

 Directly related to the curriculum.

 An instructional media that is individualized, self-paced instruction allowing the

This dissemination of knowledge is possible once it's acquired. However, in acquiring

Raajeev j Lakhara, IRS

Unit 1- Introduction, lasting principles and pre training exercise

Unit 2 – Types of lasting

 Information sheet 1 – Types and methods of lasting (Page no. 35)

Unit 3 – Upper preparation and method of insole attachment and

Unit 4 – Hand lasting

 Information sheet 1 – Process of hand lasting (page no. 63)

Unit 5 – Heat setting and wrinkle chasing

Unit 6 – Roughing, scouring and sole attachment. Practical for full

Further reading (page no. 134)

Bibliography (page no. 135)

• Understand the fundamentals of lasting

1.1 Concepts of lasting

Fig 1 – Direct construction

Example: - includes Cemented (Stuck-on) Constructions, Direct Molded Constructions,

a. ASSEMBLY: - collection of different component of shoe parts for lasting operations.

c. BOTTOMING: - preparation of the bottom parts of shoe. It includes insole preparation,

1.1.1 SHOE LAST

1. Classification of shoe last based on the nature of material of which it is made

Fig 3 - A wooden Block last

Fig 4 - Plastic last

Classification based on hinge used:

a. Standard connectional Hinged Last:

Fig 6 - Standard Connectional Hinged last

b. Telescopic last: Suitable for all types of footwear (fig: 7).

c. Reverse hinged last:

Fig 8 - Reverse hinged last

3. Classification based on bottom plate:

a. To prevent damage of the feather edge of the last

a. Last without plate:

b. Heel plated last

Fig 10 - Heel plated last

c. Heel and waist plated last

Fig 11 - Heel and waist plated last

Fig12 - Heel Shank and Toe plated last

e. Full bottom plated last

Fig13 - Fully plated last

1.1.2 Parts of shoe last

Figure 14 showing the main parts of a Shoe Last

Fig15 - Different styles of can be made on the same “Shoe Last”

Fig16 - A shoe upper

Fig 17 - Wooden Heel

Types of sole/out sole

Types of toe puff

Fig 19 - Steel toe cap for safety footwear

Types of counter stiffener

1.1.3 NAILS, TACKS AND STAPLES

Types of nails and tacks

Square machine tacks Round machine tack

Hand tack Heel building nail

Rubber heel nail Lightning nail

Temporary attaching nail

Fig 20 -Different types of nails

Use of nails and tacks

a) Used for seat, side and toe lasting

Fig 21 – Nail clenching