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be

SPRING-SUMMER 2009 TRENDS


Tradition & Modernity

spo
Exploring Savile Row
SEASIDE STORY
Made-to-measure yachts

ken
Style on the beach
Meeting Ben Ainslie
Seafront restaurants
Spring –­ Summer 2009 4th Edition Regatta round-up

A SCABAL i n it iati ve to promote A taIlor -made lifesty le


THE HEART OF COGNAC

_CRYSTAL_Press_SinglePage_300x255.indd 1 10-09-2008 13:


We work mainly with international
advertisers. If you are interested
Editorial comment

LONG-TERM
in our advertising rates,
please contact
Jérôme Stéfanski,

VALUES, LONG-TERM
jerome.stefanski@scabal.com
or +32 (0)475 41 63 62

INSPIRATION
Nothing in this magazine may be
reproduced in whole or in part without
the written permission of the publisher.
The publisher cannot be held

W
responsible for the views and opinions expressed
in this magazine by authors and contributors.
Bespoken is neither responsible e have Ethical behaviour is a concept that seems
for nor endorses the contentof advertisements chosen the somewhat at odds with the more short-term,
printed on its pages. nautical profit-at-all-cost orientated world of large
Bespoken cannot be held responsible
world corporations. Luckily, Scabal has always had
for any error or inaccuracy in such
as our a more human and long-term approach – it
advertising material.
primary seems to us that consumers and retailers
Editor: theme for alike will shift their focus and seek out
Jérôme Stéfanski the fourth brands that respect ethical values and have a
Publisher: edition of Bespoken, because the colours proven history of consistency and loyalty to
Gregor Thissen and atmosphere of beaches, marinas their products and customers.
Project Coordinator: and sailing boats have offered endless
Kristel Geets
inspiration for our Spring-Summer 2009 Lastly, a thought on the definition of
Styling:
designs. Along with various maritime ‘new luxury’. We feel that it will be less
Sylvain Gadeyne
Graphic Design: themes, we take great pride in counting ostentatious and more about individuality,
BaseDESIGN famous English sailor Ben Ainslie among personal comfort and inherent product
our interviewees. quality. This may well prove to be a
Writers: fundamental change in our industry, and
Nigel Bishop We have tried to interpret this traditional one that will be fascinating to drive and
Alan Cannon-Jones marine topic in a radical, contemporary pursue over the years to come.
Kimberley Lovato
way, in line with a cornerstone of our
Joséphine Overeem
company’s philosophy, namely innovation. Enjoy!
Stephen Papandropoulos
Bernhard Roetzel
Indeed, we firmly believe that the constant
James Sherwood renewal of products, designs and market Peter and Gregor Thissen
Jérôme Stéfanski approaches is vital to a brand’s success –
Harold Tillman a principle that is strongly reflected in our
new fabrics and garments collection.
Proofreading: It may seem paradoxical, but innovation is
ReadRight.be even more important during times of crisis,
and there is certainly no denying that the
Photographers:
David Hughes
world is undergoing an unprecedented
Stephen Papandropoulos period of uncertainty and change.
by2 Photographers But this is when opportunities arise, and
Filip Vanzieleghem companies’ flexibility and creativity allow
them to prosper and grow, despite adverse
Illustrator: market conditions.
Jean-Baptiste Biche
Recent months have also turned our
Cover Credit:
thoughts to business ethics, as it would
Abyla-Sxc.hu
appear that a lack of moral values may be at J.P. Thissen, Chairman and
SCABAL the heart of the 2008 financial meltdown. his son Gregor, CEO Scabal Group
Boulevard d’Anvers, 33
B-1000 Brussels
Belgium
Phone: + 32 (0)2 217 50 55
Scabal.com

Do you have any suggestions or feedback?


Let us know at www.bespoken.com

Bespoken is printed on environmentally friendly,


fair-trade paper This indicates a key article
available in a variety of
languages at Bespoken.com

Bespoken I 1
01 editorial comment
Long-term values,

© Scabal
long-term inspiration
03 Contributors
08 temptations
The art of receiving
The pleasure of giving
10 me, myself and i
Traditional shaving
instruments
12 style guide
Wizard whiskers
13 confession
Looking to London
14 it makes the difference
The label: An ID card
for a suit
16 exceptional machines
Premium rally
18 tailor’s dictionary
–From G to I–
21 from sheep to shop
Scabal collection:
Spring-Summer 2009
24 modern-day craftsmen
Where ‘the London cut’
was born
30 pioneer spirit
The godfather of
‘the Row’

33
33 spring-summer 2009 trends
Tradition and modernity
49 stylish accessories
Scabal’s Spring and
Summer must-haves
54 made-to-measure world
Bespoke yachts bring
70 suit therapy
Good clean advice…
new meaning to luxury
72 scabal across the world

58 the bespoke coach


Keeping up seaside
Suits you, madam!

appearances 74 autumn-winter 2009-2010 trends


Hundreds of luxurious
cloths, designs
61 interview
Ben Ainslie: A modern and shades
British sailor
76 past-present-future

65 the gourmet place


Seafront selection
Inspiration Dali
Fresh openings

66 agenda
Regatta round-up
78 fashion online
Women’s views on
men’s fashion
68 scabal across the seas
Sartoria Caprese in Capri 80 Scabal worldwide
2 I Bespoken
www.ruinart.com

Taste our knowledge wisely.


BESPoKEn’S

cONTRIbUTORS

kIMbErlEy lOvatO jaMES ShErWOOD jOSEPhInE OvErEEM nIGEl bIShOP


Kimberley lovato is a freelance Trained at Saint martins fashion Joséphine overeem is an nigel Bishop has been a
journalist whose articles about travel college, James Sherwood is the amsterdam-born, Brussels- freelance writer in Belgium for
and lifestyle have appeared in the St. author/curator of The London Cut, adopted journalist/life coach. the past 15 years, working with
Petersburg Times, Tampa Bay Illustrated, a book and exhibition showcasing She loves both occupations multinational companies in
French News, Together Magazine and Savile row bespoke tailoring and particularly enjoys writing B2B communications. Prior to this,
various other print and online media that has shown in Palazzo Pitti profi les and interviews – she also he worked for the dmB&B
in the uS and Europe. She is also in Florence and the British understands entrepreneurs and advertising agency in london and
the author of a soon-to-be-released- ambassador’s residences in Paris what motivates them. new york, before joining
book about the dordogne region of and Tokyo. He has written about young&rubicam in Paris.
France. She lives in Brussels with her men’s style for more than a decade “Web work puts food on my table, but
husband and daughter. in the Financial Times, International writing for magazines provides real
Herald Tribune, The Spectator, pleasure,” says nigel.
The Sunday Telegraph and The
Independent. For the past fi ve years,
Sherwood has been the BBcs
fashion critic at royal ascot and
he is the curator of the archive
room at n° 1 Savile row.

harOlD tIllMan
Harold Tillman is the owner
alan CannOn-jOnES and chairman of iconic British
alan cannon-Jones was born in fashion brand, Jaeger. He is bErnharD rOEtzEl
St. albans, England. after leaving seen as ‘one of the grandees of the Bernhard roetzel was born in
school, he took an apprenticeship fashion industry’ (Tim danaher, Hanover and spent part of his
as a tailor with nicholson & co. Retail Week) and has a fearsome childhood in South africa. after
during this time, he attended reputation for being impeccably studying design, he worked as a
the london college of Fashion to dressed. Tillman’s status and copywriter at advertising agencies
gain his tailoring qualifi cations. influence in the international in Hamburg and Frankfurt and
nicholson & co was later taken StEPhEn PaPanDrOPOulOS fashion world was sealed with as a script editor for a television
over by chester Barrie, but alan Based in Brussels, photographer his appointment as chairman production company. author of
continued to work with them, Stephen Papandropoulos works of the British Fashion council the popular Gentleman: A Timeless
eventually becoming production predominantly on location for a in February 20 08. He believes Fashion and British Tradition &
manager. He is now the director variety of clients. With backdrops strongly in supporting young Interior Design, Bernhard roetzel
of menswear and Bespoke ranging from the uK to mexico British fashion talent and, in has studied classic men’s fashion
tailoring at the london college and mozambique, his images 20 0 6, established a £1 million for more than ten years. apart from
of Fashion and continues to work pinpoint extraordinary moments scholarship programme for his work as an author and editor, he
as a consultant in the industry. in the ordinary. His work has postgraduate students at the also holds lectures and seminars on
He is also a regular contributor received recognition from various london college of Fashion, style issues.
to conferences on the subjects of international photography the first major educational
menswear, bespoke tailoring and competitions and has been shown scholarship for the British
mass customization. in a number of exhibitions. fashion industry. illustrations: Jean-Baptiste Biche

4 I Bespoken

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dp_AC02_08-2550_Bespoken_450x300.indd 1
13.11.2008 14:43:59
TEmPTaTionS

THE ART OF REcEIVING

2
WaTT PuPPy
Wilson audio has launched the eighth
version of its famous Watt Puppy, which
was first created in 1988 and which won
the prestigious title of audio art Best
Performance 2005. The loudspeakers’
electronic sophistication guarantees

1
a quality of sound that’s close to perfection. along
with musical intensity comes visual flair – these
speakers not only sound amazing, they look beautiful
too. completely hand-made, the speakers can be
miKaËl personalized in many ways, from paint to hardware colour. Wilson audio’s beautifully
BourGEoiS designed website allows you to combine various options to create the look you desire for your
speakers. all products are designed with Wilson Gloss technology, a paint and finish process
after having worked for many that’s rivalled only by the world’s great automobile manufacturers.

3
years with some of the most prestigious 15,000€
Swiss watchmakers, mikaël Bourgeois www.wilsonaudio.com
has now launched his own range of lodGEr
made-to-measure watches. in four to six launched in london in September
months, this designer and technician will 2008, lodger is a fresh brand of
produce the watch of your dreams – the footwear with a unique concept – your
most dazzling display of sophistication, experience begins with a laser scan,
combining form, precise mechanisms from which lodger build a 3d model
and jewels. Whether in gold, platinum of your foot. computer technology thus
or diamonds, there are no limits to these ensures the perfect fit and, since the
timepieces. all design details can be company keeps a record of your scan, you only have to be measured once. Future orders
personalized, which leaves you totally can be placed from anywhere in the world with internet or phone connection, and for those
free to fulfi l your every desire. looking for truly personal service, lodger offers ‘Shoe of the month’, with the fi rm creating
Prices on request, from 12,000€ a new design that is only available for 30 days. Each pair is individually made with the
www.novodess.com customer’s name handwritten inside.
Prices on request
www.lodgerfootwear.com
mES ViGnES
What man has never dreamed of

4
leaving it all behind, to settle in the
French countryside and create his
own wine? now, this dream can
become reality in just a few clicks,

5
without even leaving the sofa!
The website Mesvignes.com offers
the opportunity to acquire a HolliSTEr’S
selection of vines for one year Based on the principle that
and to create your own wine, every motorcyclist chooses his
remotely. after having chosen own style of bike according to
your appellation (champagne, his lifestyle and personality,
roussillon, Bordeaux, Touraine, German brand Hollister’s create
Bandol, Sancerre or Burgundy) and individual handmade motors. Each bike is
the number of vines (12 or 24), you put through a 1,000km test drive and, upon
receive a vine-grower’s certificate, delivery, the happy new owner is invited to
a vine to be planted at home and a sample of earth from your selected area. you will also spend a day’s instruction with the engineers
receive an activation code, which enables you to follow your wine’s evolution online, who made the miracle possible. it’s not so
from planting to when your bottles, labelled with your own name, arrive. For the truly much ‘Born To Be Wild’, as preached by
dedicated, there is also an opportunity to take part in the grape harvest and meet the vine Harley davidson, rather ‘live the dream’
grower who maintains your vines. a personalized gift, par excellence... with Hollister’s. Perhaps the most original
12 vine plants from 254€ way to express your personality?
www.mesvignes.com From 35,000€
www.hollisters.de

8 I Bespoken
TEMPTATIONS

THE PLEASURE OF GIVING

1 Ego
Arriving in 2003, Ego was the first manufacturer to combine luxury with laptops.
Today, the company designs exclusive laptop models in collaboration with other
renowned names, such as Ego For Bentley, which costs in excess of 15,000$! For the
most demanding users, Ego offers personalization possibilities that are second to none,
allowing you to create your very own made-to-measure laptop. This means you can design the
cover as well as the inside, choose your type of keyboard and embroider your initials on the
cover or have your name on the keyboard. Feminine options, such as diamonds and Swarovski
crystal, will allow you to offer your loved one a very prestigious gift.
Prices on request
www.ego-lifestyle.com

2 3
Smythson
Although it’s fair to say that the email is
now dominant, purists remain attached
to the fine art of calligraphy. It is certain
that your message takes on another
dimension when it is hand-written on the Guy & Max
finest-quality paper. Smythson, an English Renowned English jewellers and brothers Guy &
stationery specialist since 1887, offers full Max offer a bespoke service that enables you to create
personalization of correspondence cards, the jewellery of your dreams. There’s nothing more
writing paper, social and business cards, simple – you can either pay a visit to their London
invitations, memos and even Christmas boutique in Mayfair, where a designer will attend to
cards. No doubt mademoiselle will your every need, or you can make your request via
appreciate your delicate attention and will the internet, with a sketch or photo to show what you
thank you with hand-written, impetuous, want. From earrings to engagement rings, Guy & Max
declarations of love! will personalize all your dreams to the micro-millimetre.
50 cards and 50 envelopes Prices on request
(small postcard size) from 220€ www.guyandmax.com

5
www.smythson.com

4 Les
Ateliers
Ruby
So, you’ve yielded
to temptation, treated yourself
to a new Hollister’s motorbike
(see left page) and your partner
Creed
As the established
cosmetic giants
battle it out with
standardized scents,
there are still small, inde-
pendent perfumers offering
exceptional fragrances. A case in point is the English Creed family, which
is already moaning about your new hobby? Only one solution: has provided perfume for Napoleon III to Winston Churchill, also taking in
an accessory that combines safety with style, to keep you safe Princes Charles, Elvis Presley and Julia Roberts. Creed allows you to design
on your long spins. Les Ateliers Ruby will allow you to design your own made-to-measure scent – a gift to charm whoever is closest to your
your own helmet, with many exclusive options. There are heart. A personal appointment with none other than Olivier Creed himself is
six sizes available (from xs to xxl), ten designs, 24 colours, in essential, to talk about the personality and passions of your gift’s intended.
gloss, enamelled or matt. It’s possible to create three thousand A word of advice – don’t be impatient, as Creed only provides perfumes for
different models, each delivered within five weeks, anywhere in five lucky customers each year, and there is a three-year waiting list! The
the world! And, if your beloved is feeling even more generous, Creed family remains very discreet concerning the prices charged, but
you can have an appointment in the Parisian workshop to there’s a rumour that Gérard Depardieu and Madonna each paid around
produce an entirely made-to-measure helmet. A good reason £7,000 for their own special scents…
for her to finally like your bike… Prices on request
From 527€ € www.creedfragrances.co.uk
www.boutiqueruby.com Jérôme Stéfanski

Bespoken I 9
Me, Myself & I

Traditional shaving
instruments

4 8

3 6

10
9
2
1 Photograph: Filip Vanzieleghem
Coordination: Jérôme Stéfanski
Special thanks to Au Grand Rasoir,
Rue de l’Hôpital, 7 – 1000 Brussels – Belgium
T. +32(0) 2 512 62 49


Open razor
by Dovo, 97E
www.dovo.com
4
Schiuma da barba
300ml shaving foam by Santa
Maria Novella, 25E


7
Sandalwood 100ml skin ‘food’
by Geo. F. Trumper, 15E
www.trumpers.com
www.smnovella.it


Adjustable hand held
razor strop
by Streich-Riemen,

5
Mach III Razor

8
Exfoliating cleansing
gel by Aqua Di Parma, 100ml, 33E
badger shaving brush, bowl and
www.acquadiparma.com
65E stand by Plisson Joris, 550E


www.classicshaving.com www.rasageplisson.com
9
Chrome travel mirror With
case by Geo. F. Trumper, 110E

3
Lozione dopo-barba
100ml after-shave 6
Extract of West Indian
Limes 100ml after-shave
www.trumpers.com



by Santa Maria Novella, 50E
www.smnovella.it



by Geo. F. Trumper, 25E
www.trumpers.com

10
Alum stone by Osma, 5.50E
www.laboratoiresosma.com

10 I Bespoken
REGULATOR
WITH RETROGRADE HOUR
Ref. A3014/2 REGULATOR

www.perrelet.com
STYLE GUIDE

Wizard whiskers
Love them or hate them, one thing’s for sure –
the beard and moustache are back with a vengeance.

Tank top, shirt, cufflinks and tie: Scabal


Watch: skeleton chronograph by Perrelet
Model: Dave Monfort
Make-up: Florence Samain
Styling: Sylvain Gadeyne
Text: Jérôme Stéfanski
Photographers: by2 Photographers – bytwo.be

The moustache The beard

1 2 3 THE PERFECT SHAVE

A. Preparation C. Final touches


1. Cover the face with a hot, wet 6. Rinse face with cold water,
towel to open pores and provide to tighten pores and prevent
deep skin relaxation. blood spots.
2. Apply pre-shaving lotion to 7. Use an alum stone to further
4 5 6 moistened skin. tighten pores and reduce
3. Apply shaving cream with razor burn.
brush to soften the beard. 8. Apply non-alcohol balm.
9. Cover the face with a cold,
B. Shaving wet towel to close pores.
4. Shave first with the grain of
7 8 9 your beard, so as not to irritate
the skin.
5. Shave a second time against
All photos accompanying this article were
the grain, to obtain the closest taken at New York Barbershop, Rotterdam,
possible cut. The Netherlands – newyorkbarbershop.nl

12 I Bespoken
confession

LOOKING TO LONDON
Why is British fashion unique? How does one define the British ‘touch’?
British Fashion Council Chairman Harold Tillman offers his view.

© Colin Levêcque
Scabal’s ‘Made in England’ fabric, Private Line collection

I
nternational audiences look to London for dynamism exciting designers. But the students
come to London to and inspiration. also need to showcase their work and in
see some of the most my new role I plan to help young talent
exciting emerging We have just announced plans to get on the ladder.
design talents in the launch the largest-ever UK fund to
world. Here is where develop designers and are completely The British ‘touch’, I think, is defined
new fashion design committed to supporting and by our colleges, which have exceptional
businesses start, sustaining our young talent. As resources and lecturers to mould the
where the city’s cultural diversity has British Fashion Council Chairman, I outstanding design talents who start
inspired generation after generation have commissioned a report into the their businesses in London.
of designers to push trend boundaries importance of the fashion industry
and ignite passion. London embraces to the British economy and plan to One of my proudest moments was to
both establishment and the new – these increase business support and training establish my own scholarship at the
opposing poles of influence spark an for designers, working with colleges to London College of Fashion (of which I
incredible creative energy. incorporate more business development am a member of the alumni) two years
into their courses and introducing the ago – it enables students to realize
British fashion is widely recognized first Fashion MBA. their dreams. With next year being
as being among the most cutting- the British Fashion Council’s 25th
edge – we’re brave in the way our I believe our fashion colleges are anniversary, the spotlight will more
design defines us, from Mary Quant to among the best in the world – their than ever be on the country’s inspiring
Stella McCartney, Alexander McQueen expertise, combined with the city’s fashion ­– there are great days ahead!
and Vivienne Westwood. The brand-led creative influences produce true
markets of New York, Paris and Milan individualists and the world’s most Harold Tillman

Bespoken I 13
IT MAKES THE DIFFERENCE

The label:
an ID card for a suit
Every year, Scabal produces more than 150,000 cloth-woven labels for their cut lengths.
What information do these labels communicate? Where are they produced?
Why are they so important? So many questions…
So who better to answer than Scabal’s 40-year-serving Administrative Director
Maurice Gillet, and his right-hand woman Marianne De Greef?

M
aurice Gillet is De Greef. Up to four pieces of
an organized information can appear on each label ‘Each label is
man. When I to describe the fabric: the raw material made of satin
meet him to from which it was made (cashmere, and is pre-cut
ask about the silk, linen, cotton), the name of and corrected
production of collection (Summit, Gold Treasure,
Scabal’s labels, Diamond Chip, Lapis Lazuli), its origin by laser in order
he points me (Made in England) and the superfine to facilitate
towards a dictionary definition of the grading, such as Super 150’s, Super the work of
term ‘label’: ‘A small piece of paper or 180’s (related to the quality, staple the tailor’
plastic bearing a drawing or inscription length and fineness of the wool fibre).
placed on or attached to a product
or object.’ A tailor-made definition All labels are made from satin and
for a Scabal label! come from Europe, thus confirming
the ‘Made in Europe’ claim to the last
SCABAL’S LABEL – FROM WHAT, detail. The labels are sewed inside
FROM WHERE, WITH WHAT? every garment made in Scabal’s
“The role of the label is to inform the Saarbrucken factory in Germany, and
consumer about the type of fabric used to they are also sent to every tailor who
make his garment,” explains Marianne orders Scabal fabric.

INTERVIEW according to the characteristic of the How have the labels evolved?
fabric and sometimes the colour of the The labels have had several technical
Bespoken: How many different labels selvedge. improvements, driven by quality.
do you produce every year? All these elements combine to present Today, each label is made of satin
Maurice Gillet and Marianne a homogeneous colour code in order and is pre-cut and corrected by laser
De Greef: Each type of label is to create a harmonious and easily in order to facilitate the work of the
related to its collection. We design identifiable unit. tailor when he sews it on the garment.
approximately fifteen new fabric We have recently launched a new
collections per season. Consequently, What are the main types of labels? project aimed at improving the
we produce around thirty new label There are two main categories presentation of our labels which, before
designs a year. In total, around distinguishable entirely by their now, were fastened to the fabric that
150,000 labels are produced annually! formatting. Square blue labels used was sent to the tailor. Our idea is to
for standard fabrics, while the labels create a high-class paper presentation
Who designs the labels? in the shape of a large rectangle leaflet, with both the label and all the
Michael Day, Scabal Design & Creation are for exceptional fabrics such as details concerning the fabric, which
Director, and his assistant Nora Summit, Diamond Chip (Super 150’s should be ready to be offered to our
Krämer, let us know what they want and Silk with Diamond Fragments) customers during 2009.
according to whatever new fabrics they or Gold Treasure (Super 150’s and 22 Jérôme Stéfanski
have created. The label is then designed carat gold).

14 I Bespoken
© Filip Vanzieleghem

Scabal’s labels

Bespoken I 15
EXCEPTIONAL MACHINES

Premium RaLLY
Exactly at the point where Germany, Switzerland and France touch noses,
in the peaceful city of Basel-on-Rhine, at the end of summer,
a distinguished crowd gets together at the Fair in Hall 2.
Who are they? What are they up to? Explanation time...

© S. William

The 19 th Raid Suisse-Paris

16 I Bespoken
n fact, they’re there to of the Raid, discovered a magazine we have an organization of 400 people.
discover a very private advertisement by Scabal in which The technical assistance during the Raid
exhibition of luxury a young gentleman wore a jacket in already accounts for half of the reputation
cars: an almost complete striped cloth, while sitting in an MG that The Raid has built up over the years.
overview of the nec plus old-timer. The Swiss rally entrepreneur The other half may be due to the fact that
ultra of the premium did not hesitate and called Gregor participants discover a new route every
segment yet to go on the Thissen, CEO of Scabal in Brussels. year and how well they are catered for
market. The event is the Lo and behold, Olivier Vander Slock, during the event.”
Raid Premium Car & Luxury Show and who was responsible for the whole
it’s unique. The invitations only go out campaign, happened to be in Basel. ITINERARY
to a happy few – there are a 1,000 or This year, the Raid went from Basel
so guests present. They might buy one ‘Next year, we’ll along the Baden wine route to
of these splendid cars one day but, for Kaiserstuhl and on through the
most of them, their hearts flutter over
find something Black Forest high road to the elegant
the cherished oldies being tested on the else that will Spa town Baden-Baden. There, the
centre court – 250 of the most beautiful link scabal to participants were welcomed in a
vintage cars in the world (vintage the raid’ beautiful castle with drinks and dinner
meaning from 1975 and before), all still and are lodged in luxury hotels. The
in full gear, have been flown in from second day takes them – guided by
everywhere in the world – not only from It did not take long before the an impeccable road book – by little-
Europe but also Mexico, the United organizer of the most exclusive Raid known roads through the Vosges, along
States and even from Japan. in Europe and the CEO of Scabal forest and streams, to the Champagne
saw that they had a shared interest. region, arriving in the spacious park
All are there to take part in the 19th During the Raid Premium Car & of Champagne Pommery in Reims.
Raid Suisse-Paris – around half the Luxury Show 2007, Scabal would The third day, vineyards stand by the
owners already know each other from exhibit the advertisement. While their morning roads, passing through quiet
former rallies. The Alfa Romeo and vintage cars were being tested on the viticultural villages guarded by proud
Renault museums are participating fairground their owners could discover castles. Arrival is at the history-laden
with some of their most beautiful the suit, worn by the model in the MG renaissance castle of the Rothschild-
collection pieces, while the rest have with accompanying Scabal suitcase. Dynasty Château de Ferrières in Seine-
arrived thanks to word-of-mouth “I remember at the time we prepared the and-Marne. Impeccable English-style
recommendations. picture how difficult it was to cover the gardens form the ideal setting for the
suitcase,” says Vander Slock. “But Gregor Raid’s final aperitif. The gala dinner
GENTLEMEN’S RALLY Thissen personally knows the owner of and prize ceremony then take place at
So, the next morning, off they set. Delvaux and it was with the help of Maison the Hotel Le Méridien Etoile, near the
The flag goes down and the crowds Delvaux that the job was done.” Arc de Triomphe. The next day, the
applaud. Real sports cars go for the participants drive back to Basel on a
authentic rally challenge – a night tour, “Next year, we’ll find something else that prepared route.
all inclusive. There are the veterans: will link Scabal to the Raid,” Vander Slock
some of them date back before World adds. “It is impressive to see how much What strikes Bichsel most about the
War II and, of course, there are the passion these people put into their vintage participants? “Their kindness and their
tourist cars. cars and it’s very nice how relaxed they absolute fair play. I can illustrate this with
mix with the other participants. It is indeed a small anecdote. While passing over the
Some of the participants wearing a high-potential clientele and we are very Rhine one of the cars needed water to cool
a made-to-measure dark blue happy to be one of the preferred partners.” a heated radiator. Without any hesitation
Scabal blazer they ordered months another participant stopped, took off his
ago, with the Raid slogan: ‘Vive le Bichsel, a suave and agreeable Swiss- jacket and made trips to a nearby river.
raid’ embroidered on the red felt born entrepreneur who bears his However, when he did not return, the other
undercollar, and also woven into the sixty-something years very well, knows participants went to look and discovered
silk lining. The very discreet red- high-class brands intimately from the he had fallen into the water and had to be
stitched buttonhole allows the wearers time he worked in Paris. “All roads lead helped out. There he was, dripping wet from
to acknowledge each other with an to Paris as far as I am concerned, because head to toe, with a big smile on his face.
ever-so-discreet nod – the day before, Paris is the town where the automobile If this is not real rally adventure, what is? ”
the second year of collaboration culture has its roots. I liked the idea of
between The Raid and Scabal linking my own country with an event Go to www.raid.ch for more information on
was marked. It all began in the late that celebrates these roots and the idea the 2009 Raid Suisse-Paris
autumn of 2006 when Mr. H.A. Bichsel, of the Raid Suisse-Paris was born. It
the man who invented the concept was a success right from the start. Today Joséphine Overeem

Bespoken I 17
©F. Uyttenhove
Tailor’s Dictionary

 From G to I
Step by step, Bespoken highlights the terms used by tailors
to help you create the suit of your dreams. If you missed the other
articles in this series, you can order previous editions
of our magazine at Bespoken.com

18 I Bespoken
Tailor’s Dictionary

G
Grain
The direction of the warp of the fabric which runs up
and down its length. A garment would normally be cut
on the grain, cross grain is cutting a garment across the
grain, off grain is cutting a garment on the bias and the
grain line is marked on each pattern piece to ensure the
correct direction of the grain.
Gathering
The shortening of the fabric length by drawing
together and holding a succession of small folds of Grinning
material by stitching. This term is used when a seam has opened as a result of
incorrect sewing thread tension. The stitches can be seen
to ‘grin’ through the fabric.
Gauge
A standard measure of distance, such as the distance
between needles on a twin-needle sewing machine Gussett
for edge stitching. A piece of fabric inserted to strengthen or enlarge an
area of the garment.

Gimp
A special thread used to support and raise buttonhole
stitching. Also used for embroidery.

Glaze
A term describing the finish of a cloth with a smooth,
high-polished surface. This is obtained by means of
friction when calendaring in fabric form. Also, a shiny
mark or effect of glaze obtained by excessively hot ironing
or bad pressing in garment processing.

Gloss
Shine on fabric after pressing, usually caused
by heat and pressure in the areas of extra thickness
such as pockets and seams.

Goose
An old term to describe a pressing iron that was similar Gorge seam Grading

H
to a goose in shape.

Gore
A wedge-shaped piece of fabric inserted into a garment
section to obtain width at a specific place. Sometimes
inserted into the interlining canvas in the shoulder area
to create a specific shoulder shape.
Haircloth
A springy, wiry fabric used to interline and strengthen
Gorge Seam a jacket or coat in the chest area. It has a cotton or linen
The seam joining the neck of the jacket to the collar. warp and a weft of horsehair. The hair used is from the
mane or tail.

Grading
The process of producing a range of patterns of different Handle
sizes from a master pattern. The feeling of a fabric in the hand.

Bespoken I 19
Tailor’s Dictionary

I
Hanger (Cloth)
A tab of binding or lining fixed at the top centre of the
jacket back neck across the collar seam. This is used to
hang the garment on a peg when it is not being worn.
This should only be used if a coat hanger is not available.

Impression
Hanger (Coat) Surface unevenness after garment pressing, usually around
A device usually made of wood (for tailored garments), any areas of extra thickness such as pockets and seams.
which is used to hang up a garment.

Inlay
Hare Pocket An extra piece of fabric in the garment’s seam, to allow
An extra large pocket inserted into the lining of a for future alteration.
jacket or coat in the hip area. This usually has a button
fastening. So named, as it was used by poachers to hide a
hare – also used by professional gamekeepers and gillies. Interlining (Interfacing)
A layer of fabric inserted between the front and the
lining of a jacket or coat. This gives stability, shape-
Heat Setting retention and strength. The interlining can be sewn in
Stabilization of fibres, yarns and threads with heat. or bonded by heat.

Hem Iron
The fabric turned up at the bottom of a garment, such as at A hand tool used when pressing a garment. This is
the bottom of the trouser leg or the bottom edge of a jacket. usually pointed at the front and square at the rear
with a handle at the top so that a balanced grip may
be obtained. Irons are generally heated by electricity
Hemming Tape butover many years alternative methods have included
A narrow reinforcing tape used in the hem of gas,steam, charcoal or a stove.
tailored trousers to prevent wear on the fabric and
subsequent fraying.

Inlay
Hare

Text: Alan Cannon-Jones


Hem Illustrations: Jean-Baptiste Biche

20 I Bespoken
FROM SHEEP TO SHOP

Scabal Collection:
Spring-Summer 2009
Bespoken talks to Scabal Design & Creation Director Michael Day,
about the Spring-Summer 2009 collection.
A look at the fabrics and designs that discerning men
around the world will be choosing this season.
© Scabal

‘Casual chic’ by Scabal

Bespoken I 21
‘Not too loud. The year 2009 is
casual, comfortable, soft and
luxurious, but discreet’

FABRICS SIGN OF THE TIMES

© Fotostudio Uyttebroeck
In many parts of the world, there
Conventional? Dull? Stuffy? Static? is more than a hint of discretion
Absolutely not! There are strong in luxury markets. Red and yellow
trends sweeping the top end of sports cars are moving more slowly
men’s fashion. off the shelves, with a preference
for sedate shades. Likewise with
SPENDING MORE ON clothing, it seems that people prefer
DRESSING DOWN ‘quieter’ statements when times are
The mood is unmistakable. Like motor difficult. Modesty and discretion are
cars, where each new model is just a bit back in fashion.
more luxurious than its predecessor,
men’s luxury casual wear is on a steady “We definitely have more semi-plain
and continuous climb. designs in 2009 and most of our checks
and stripes are softer,” Michael
A few years ago, men might have been confirms.
happy with a good quality wool-cotton
jacket – they just didn’t want to invest “Our new Lifestyle collection is a perfect
in the casual look. Now, they’re after example. With 36 suiting patterns and
luxurious blends such as cashmere-silk. various qualities of Super 120’s, 130’s
They want to look sophisticated and and wool-silk, it is a mixture of tastes
relaxed, and not just at weekends that reflects the diversity of demand.
But 2009 designs have one common
“Sometimes you’re ahead of a trend, denominator: sobriety.”
sometimes you’re not,” admits Michael
Day. “But this time, with the upward move ERA OF DISCRETION
to luxury in casual clothing, we are right “There’s a call for narrower stripes now.
on the button.” In our classical suiting patterns we see ‘Romance’ collection

stripes of half a centimetre or so, whereas


LUXURY GOES CASUAL a couple of years ago most were more
“Scabal started upgrading its casual than a centimetre apart.”
collections a couple of seasons ago,”
Day adds, “when we brought out our first “Take a mainstream collection like
cashmere-cotton cloth for suits and trousers Eton, a Super 130’s cloth with no less
in Spring 2008. Sales were good, but we than 92 designs in 2009, featuring much
expect them to be even stronger in 2009.” softer striped and check designs. Or our
“We are already creating Spring-Summer Mohair, where soft, fresh, plain shades
2010 collections, blending super-fine dominate more than ever.
cotton with an even more luxurious fibre than
cashmere! Casual has become luxurious, “And what could illustrate this trend
and luxury today is all about being casual.” better than our new Romance collection?
One hundred per cent worsted-spun
This quality upgrade is not confined cashmere jacketing in thirty-one designs
to Summer casual clothing. Scabal to meet the demand for high quality. It is
has introduced new designs to its fancy jacketing but with soft checks and
cashmere-corduroy collection (10 per delicate romantic colours. Not too loud.
cent cashmere, 90 per cent cotton) The year 2009 is casual, comfortable,
for the Winter 2008 range. soft and luxurious, but discreet.”

22 I Bespoken
Men are shedding kilos in health
clubs, and they want to show it.
So the slim-fit silhouette style will
continue in the new season

CUT AND FOUR THEMES


“The trend to blends – like silk, linen and
tempered by cashmere, silk and cotton blends.
The outcome is casual luxury – smart suits
COLOURS cotton blended with wool – gives a relaxed
look to the new collection,” explains Olivier
with a new Bohemian feel for men who prefer
an original, more individual style.”
How will the cloth be cut in 2009? Vander Slock. “The mood is contemporary
Scabal Sales and Product Director and comfortable with a light and luxurious TRAVEL
Olivier Vander Slock introduces the feel. Four main themes gather up the Scabal “This third atmosphere combines traditional
new Scabal suit collection. collection into atmospheres… let’s call them grey with green and lilac, updated with a
Sunny, Africa, Travel and Ocean.” hint of purple. Our technical craftsmanship
SLIMMER IN 2009 blends vegetable fibres with hi-tech yarns,
Men are shedding kilos in health clubs, SUNNY creating delicate, refined patterns of tone
and they want to show it. So the slim- “The strongest theme is created around a cool on tone and chiaroscuro contrasts.These
fit silhouette style will continue in the and urban look with white, grey, light blue and are cloths for businessmen in search of top-
new season. Jackets are shorter with a beige, in combination with soft sunny yellow. quality comfortable travel suits.”
single vent, slimmer fit and narrower Delicate herringbone patterns and natural
lapels. Sleeves are narrower too, with textures of organic yarns are mixed with plain, OCEAN
a higher pitch. The waist is also lower, un-patterned lightweight cloths. The result is “Drawing inspiration from the sea, this theme
accentuating the tall, slender shape. an effortless modernity, with a cool urban feel.” uses blue with hints of orange and white from
Even ties have shed centimetres around seashore shells. The core is based on ultra-
the middle.The slimmer look carries AFRICA clean gabardines with a finish, patterned with
on down to the trousers, which have a “The second theme draws on the contrasts of simple stripes or subtle tone-on-tone designs.
lowered waist band and narrower cut Africa, with light sandy hues and deep brown Chic and elegant, the theme is a new luxurious
legs. It is a younger, sharper, fitter look woody colours. Cloths are noble, soft and interpretation of the casual look, with an
for well-dressed men in 2009. subtly iridescent, with the dry touch of linen optimistic reference to sunny California.”

SPRING-SUMMER STARS Acapulco: On the leading edge of


Lapis Lazuli: This classic in the top the upgrade to luxury casual wear,
segment features a range of 14 blue- Acapulco mixes linen with soft
on-blue suiting patterns. It’s a perfect cashmeres and silks. Colours range
illustration of how Scabal combines from natural white, beige, brown and
technological know-how with a long- pastel blue to salmon pink and grey.
standing tradition of craftsmanship. The striped, checked and un-patterned
Lapis Lazuli – or blue stone – has been jacket designs make Acapulco a chic,
mined and cherished for more than sophisticated choice for weekend wear.
6,000 years. Royalty and rulers in Mohair Collection: Scabal has added
Mesopotamia, Egypt, Persia, Greece two new mohair qualities to its
and Rome extolled its therapeutic established Monterey Bay and Paloma
qualities – said to improve potency, Bay lines in 2009. Cannes blends kid
© Fotostudio Uyttebroeck

immunity and intellectual abilities. mohair with linen and silk, while a
Scabal has developed a technique to new 60 per cent kid mohair, ‘Made in
spin microscopic particles of this semi- England’, brings extra refinement to
precious stone into Super 150’s wool. summer suits. All four mohair lines
It gives the Lapis Lazuli collection a are cool to the touch, comfortable and
natural sheen with a unique, luxurious lightweight – exuding sheer luxury.
feel. For gentlemen seeking quality…
and love. ‘Lapis Lazuli’ collection Nigel Bishop

Bespoken I 23
Modern-day craftsmen

Where ‘the London


cut’ was born
To borrow a sentiment from Umberto Eco, “We all stand on the shoulders
of giants”. Nowhere is this more true than on Savile Row where,
for more than two centuries, the craft of bespoke tailoring has been practised
by successive generations of tailors who are acknowledged to be
the world’s best suit makers.

A
s the global during the late 18th century. One of Baron de Rothschild, loaned Napoleon
economy heads the grandest of these mansions was III £10,000 to advance his campaign for
into rough seas, Burlington House (now the Royal the throne of France. It was he who, in
Savile Row can Academy of Arts) that faces Piccadilly, 1860, cut the prototype evening dress
console itself with its orchards covering what we now coat for the Prince of Wales; replicating
that a year or two know as Savile Row. it in 1886 for Mr James Potter of Tuxedo
is a drop in the Park and thus giving America a new
ocean of time Names still familiar today such as sartorial term. Though Henry died
that tailoring has shoemaker John Lobb, hatter James almost insolvent in 1876 after years of
survived in this short London street. Lock, tailor Hawkes & Co (now Gieves offering near-unlimited credit for his
The Row has survived two world wars, & Hawkes) and barber Trumper were glamorous clientele and high living on
the Great Depression and Giorgio already the height of fashion in 1790 a similar scale, the house survived and
Armani to emerge in a surprisingly when the Prince Regent (later King passed into the Cundey family in 1883,
robust state in 2008. A brief look into George IV) and self-proclaimed ‘man where it remains.
tailoring history may explain why the of mode’ George ‘Beau’ Brummell
craft will not be scuppered. led men’s fashion. But it wasn’t until 20TH CENTURY: ‘LONDON CUT’
1846 – when Henry Poole made the The origins of the famed ‘London Cut’
decision to reverse the entrance of of Savile Row bespoke tailoring can be
© Gieves & Hawkes

his famous tailor’s shop from Old traced back to the aforementioned Beau
Burlington Street to Savile Row – that Brummell, the true spirit of the dandy,
the tailors began their colonization of who rejected excess and embellishment
the street they still dominate to this day. in favour of a sober palette, clean lines
and immaculate fit. One only has to
Poole’s is not the oldest bespoke tailor look at boutique financiers around
in London. That honour goes to Mayfair today in their navy single-
court and ceremonial tailors Ede & breasted one button suits and crisp
Ravenscroft (1689) followed by Gieves white Turnbull & Asser shirts to see
Gieves & Hawkes’s archive & Hawkes (established in 1785 and that British men’s style hasn’t moved
1771 respectively). But Poole’s is the so far away from Beau’s strategy of the
ORIGINS OF ‘THE ROW’ prototype purveyor of the London Cut early 1900s. The emergence of what
One has to peel historical Mayfair like in the grand, traditional style. we now know as Savile Row’s ‘Royal
an onion to find the origins of bespoke ‘Old Pooley’ was what we would Family’ did not happen until almost
tailoring on and around Savile Row. now consider a celebrity tailor. His a century later. In 1906, Anderson &
Legend has it that it was a street of magnificent premises at N° 36 Savile Sheppard was established by Swedish-
surgeons who migrated to Harley Street Row was as exclusive an address as born Per Anderson who had trained
as the house of Henry Poole & Co came White’s Club and attracted friends of under the legendary Dutchman Mr
to dominate ‘the Row’ from 1846. Henry Henry Poole such as Bertie, Prince of Scholte. The birth of Anderson &
Poole does indeed deserve the moniker Wales, the man who was to become Sheppard coincided with the birth of
Godfather of Savile Row, but his was not Emperor Napoleon III, the Crown the film business in Hollywood. Not
the first tailoring house on the block. Prince of Prussia, King Umberto of Italy coincidentally, the firm embraced
and Tsar Alexander II of Russia, not to screen idols such as Rudolph Valentino
Tailors invariably follow wealth and mention authors Charles Dickens and and went on to dress the unimpeachably
fashion; hence the purveyors of Wilkie Collins. chic Fred Astaire in the 1930s when the
gentlemen’s requisites gravitated around The myths surrounding Henry Poole still Prince of Wales’s tailor Hawes & Curtis
the great aristocratic houses built in bathe the house in an aura of glamour refused to copy one of Prince Edward’s
the Mayfair-Piccadilly-St James’s axis and lost splendour. It was he who, with suits at the request of Astaire.

24 I Bespoken
The origins of the famed
‘London Cut’ of Savile
Row bespoke tailoring
can be traced back to
Beau Brummell, the true
spirit of the dandy

Typical English touches in Savile Row


© S. Papandropoulos

Bespoken I 25
inevitable and selling a ready-to-wear
line internationally, though they were
by no means the first. As early as 1930,
Hawkes & Co at N° 1 Savile Row were
advertising a collection of ‘immediate
wear’ garments.

ONE LEITMOTIF: HANDMADE


Pride in the purity of bespoke tailoring
– suits measured by hand, pattern cut
by hand, fittings sewn and finished
by hand – is unshaken on Savile Row.
However, only Anderson & Sheppard,
Welsh & Jefferies, Davies & Son, Henry
Poole & Co and Dege & Skinner restrict
their UK production to bespoke.
Great historical houses such as Gieves
& Hawkes and Ede & Ravenscroft
retain their bespoke workrooms but
have also developed ready-to-wear and
made-to-measure collections for entry-
level suits that may, in time, grow into
bespoke custom.

Anderson & Sheppard went on to dress The artist formerly known as Kilgour,
Gary Cooper, Noel Coward, Ronald French & Stanbury is perhaps the most
Coleman, Sir Laurence Olivier and radical streamlining of what was formerly
Cary Grant. The house favoured a softer a bespoke giant established in 1923,
shoulder than is traditional at, say, when Kilgour & French united under
Henry Poole & Co, and a more draped one roof. The house’s history on the Row
coat that caresses rather than constricts. is as revered as Huntsman or Anderson
It is a shape that continues to fascinate & Sheppard but it’s relentlessly modern
the Hollywood market, which still putsch under creative director Carlo
chooses Anderson & Sheppard as their Brandelli has taken Kilgour closer to
preferred Savile Row tailors. fashion brands such as Lanvin or Bottega
Veneta than to Poole’s and Dege.
H. Huntsman & Sons opened its
doors in 1849 but arrived at its present Kilgour retains bespoke workshops
address on the Row in 1919. Notoriously but the cool, minimal facades of N°s
the most costly Savile Row tailor, the 5 and 8 Savile Row sell ready-to-
Huntsman bespoke block is one of the wear and made-to-measure, designed
most distinctive. It is also the cut most by Brandelli and shown biannually
associated with Savile Row tailoring: at the runway shows in Paris.
sharp shoulders, a slightly long coat, Brandelli aspires for Kilgour to be an
the one-button that is so notoriously international luxury men’s fashion
difficult to balance and the emphasis brand. He’s not the first.
on a clean, fitted line. This heroic
shape was developed by the great WHEN BESPOKE MEETS FASHION
© VisMedia

Hutsman Managing Director Colin In the early 1990s, a trinity of bespoke


Hammick, who died earlier this year. tailors gave Savile Row the kiss of life
The bespoke suit process 1981 saw Huntsman bowing to the by bringing fashion and craft together

26 I Bespoken
The evolution of Scabal in Savile Row
© Scabal

1970 1980 2008


for the first time since the glory days with flagship stores scattered across the and cutter Edward Sexton opened
of Nutter and Sexton. Richard James, globe. Fashion has once again turned Nutters of Savile Row and brought
Ozwald Boateng and Timothy Everest to the London Cut, with designers the energy and swinging hip of the
all made a lot of noise in the fashion as diverse as Bottega Veneta’s Tomas late 1960s/early 70s ‘Youthquake’
press and brought the attention back Maier and Tom Ford referencing classic to a previously sedate Savile Row.
to bespoke with creative stock models Savile Row style. While these designers Rupert Lycett Green’s Blades boutique
such as a two-piece camouflage suit are charging upwards of £5,000 for on Burlington Gardens (now Ede
(James), a purple single-breasted ready-to-wear, Savile Row’s entry price & Ravenscroft) introduced high
one button with acid yellow lining of £3,500 for bespoke starts to look fashion ready-to-wear under the
(Boateng) and Nutteresque Prince of positively frugal. slogan ‘for today rather than the
Wales three-piece suits from Everest, memory of yesterday’ while characters
who trained under Nutter. The fact that As the world becomes increasingly such as Bobby Valentine brought a
these names are still called ‘new boys’ obsessed with carbon footprints, there’s flamboyance not seen in men’s style
may irritate the new establishment Savile Row cutting, sewing and finishing since before World War II.
tailors but it’s a testament that a decade bespoke suits within a mile radius of Thus, Savile Row was rocking
or two isn’t so long on Savile Row. In cloth that’s woven exclusively in the UK. when Scabal took-up residence
the interim, Nick Hart and Richard It was inevitable that consumerism could at N° 12; cleverly bringing luxury
Anderson have both opened own-label not spin the world around any faster and, menswear cloths woven primarily
operations on the Row, led by bespoke, thus, Savile Row’s stately three-month in Huddersfield to the heartland of
while Boateng and James have super- period to cut a bespoke suit seems less British bespoke tailoring. The social
sized to being the owners of shops with objectionable as fast fashion slows down. and financial temperature on the Row
the largest floor space on the Row. There’s also sustainability to consider. was perfect for the introduction of a
In James’s case he cleverly split his With care, a Savile Row bespoke suit Scabal presence while fashion was
bespoke and ready-to-wear operations lasts for life and encourages one to keep firmly in favour of the more esoteric
between shop sites that face each other the shape it was originally cut for. All the and extravagant cloths that Scabal
across Savile Row/Clifton Street. above combine to create the conditions was already noted for.
In Boateng’s, it was the audacious for a perfect storm that will fill Savile
opening of his headquarters on what Row’s sails and drive them forward for A man who witnessed the growth of
was formerly Anderson & Sheppard’s another 200 years. Scabal in Savile Row almost from the
corner of Savile Row. beginning is Mr John Harvey who
SCABAL AND SAVILE ROW – joined the firm in 1975 and retires this
Somewhat ironically for a business A LONG STORY year. He has been in cloth as man and
that relies so heavily on City money Scabal couldn’t have chosen a better boy, having left school at 16 and worked
and US trade, Savile Row’s bespoke year to open its now iconic store for 15 years at Hunt & Winterbottom, a
tailors huddled together on this short at N° 12 Savile Row than 1970. On British cloth merchant, before joining
street are in better shape in the global St. Valentine’s Day the previous year, Scabal. He reflects on 33 years of
recession than the luxury-goods giants visionary designer Tommy Nutter Scabal and Savile Row.

Bespoken I 27
‘Savile Row in the 70s had a certain
mystique but I’d agree that there’s
a similar sense of optimism on
the Row today’
© Scabal

The Savile Row Scabal team. From left to right: Terry


Brown, Ricky Sahota, Hazel Edmonds and John Harvey.
Missing from picture: Chris Brown

INTERVIEW Can we time-travel a bit more? Was accessible to the man who has every other
Scabal very well known when you suit imaginable in his wardrobe and
Bespoken : Mr Harvey, can you tell us first worked for the house? would thus wear it on particularly special
your earliest impressions of the Row Well, Scabal wasn’t really sold in the UK occasions. When I came into the trade in
when you arrived in 1975? previous to the Savile Row shop. We had the 1960s, the typical suit weight was an
John Harvey: I wasn’t a stranger to the to build the business from the ground up. 18-ounce flannel. Scabal still produces
Row because my brother was a director You may find it hard to believe, that in the 15- or 16-ounce range because certain
at Anderson & Sheppard – one of the those days, Lebanon was the centre of the clients still want that weight but, by and
grand old houses along with Henry Poole fabric-buying business. It was the troubles large, the trend is towards lighter weights.
& Co, Kilgour, French & Standbury in the Lebanon that made the cloth business
and Gieves & Hawkes – and it was relocate to London. Well, Scabal suddenly How important is the Savile Row
he who recommended me to Hunt & took off. We did extremely well producing connection for Scabal?
Winterbottom. When I arrived at Scabal, the finest cloth in the world. We still do. The Very important and particularly relevant
Tommy Nutter was across the road (where magic words are still ‘made in England’. to our largest international markets like
Davies & Son was). He was a lovely chap, Japan, India, China, Korea and The
no side to him, but more importantly he Did you have a lot to do with the United States, who revere Savile Row
came into Savile Row and did something designs of the cloth? tailoring.
a little bit different. I would definitely relay requests from
men who came into N° 12 Savile Row to Scabal is an important name in the
What was Scabal’s business in the mill at Huddersfield. That’s a very made-to-measure market. How has
the 70s? important factor in Scabal’s success. We the relationship with the tailors of
We sold cloth; more than 200 suit lengths own our own mill and can control design, Savile Row evolved over the years?
in the shop at one time. In those days, creation, manufacturing and marketing As I said, in the 1960s and 70s, the tailors
there was a big business for foreign of the fabrics. would only cut suits from cloth that they
visitors who’d buy a cloth from us and supplied. Very few can afford to hold
take it back home to be made up by a local How has fashion in men’s suiting- the stock on the premises now, hence
tailor. At that time, they couldn’t take the fabric evolved? the importance of our bunches. What
cloth to a tailor on the Row. Now, that’s Designs such as pinstripe, chalkstripe hasn’t changed is that everyone helps
where the tailors made their profits. and Prince of Wales check will always one another on the Row. We’re all in the
They had to supply the cloth. be there. All we do as a company is make same business and it is in everybody’s
them in higher and higher qualities. But interest to be seen to be buoyant.
We see echoes of that Nutter era Scabal is equally famed for its innovations
on the Row today with designer- such as ‘Gold Treasure’ (a Super 150’s What will you miss most about
tailors such as Nick Hart, Ozwald with 22-carat gold pinstripe). ‘Diamond Scabal and Savile Row?
Boateng, Richard James and Richard Chip’ (the first cloth producing diamond The characters that this business attracts –
Anderson bringing flair and a level of fragments), Summit (made from Super both the tailors and the customers – and
high fashion to bespoke tailoring. 250’s wool) and the pure Vicuna suiting. a pride that we are selling, without
Savile Row in the 70s had a certain question, the finest fabrics in the world.
mystique but I’d agree that there’s a similar The London Cut of Savile Row
sense of optimism on the Row today. I think bespoke suits tends to demand a Scabal
it’s nice to see made-to-measure companies heavier weight of cloth. How can 12, Savile Row
coming in to complement pure bespoke. It suiting fabrics get ever more refined London W1S 3PQ
combines well to have all levels of top-end and be built to last? T. +44 20 77 34 89 63
men’s tailoring available on the street. Well, the pure Vicuna suit is only hazel.edmonds@scabal.com

28 I Bespoken
© Scabal

Scabal today in Savile Row

GOURMET measure ashtrays have found their way into Monte Carlo, silver columns and wrought iron
RECOMMENDATIONS Savile Row’s workrooms, where they are used chandeliers reminiscent of a petrified forest. The
When you visit Savile Row to discover to hold pins and chalk. Regulars at Sartoria 200-seater space combines Deco decadence with
Scabal, why not take time to try two great include Welsh & Jefferies Managing Director immense charm. All of Nobu’s signature dishes
restaurants, as recommended by Bespoken? Malcolm Plews – one of the greatest cutters of are present and correct (not least the now cliched
his generation – who likes to order the antipasti blackened cod) but executive chef Mark Edwards
Sartoria menu from a table at the bar that offers an eagle’s also presents dishes such as roast whole poussin
In 1997, Vanity Fair declared ‘London Swings eye view of his competitors on the Row. with jalapeno, ponzu butter and yuzu lemon
Again’ with a now-iconic portrait of New garlic cooked in a Japanese wood-burning stove.
Establishment tailors Ozwald Boateng, Timothy Sartoria Sushi and sashimi from Nobu is arguably the
Everest and Richard James on Savile Row. Sir 20, Savile Row finest you’ll taste in London, but more creative
Terence Conran opened Sartoria a year later, London W1S 3PR dishes such as shiitake mushroom salad, king crab
capitalizing on the new optimism around the Lunch served Monday to Friday 12-15h claw tempura and tuna tataki with ponzu are not
Row. Though no longer Conran-owned, Sartoria Bar menu served Monday to Friday 12-1h to be passed over in favour of the raw material
has changed little. The decor is Tokyo-meets- Reservations: +44 (0)207 534 7000 menu. Somewhat eccentrically for London, Nobu
Manhattan minimal, the service is impeccable www.sartoriabar.co.uk Berkeley does not take reservations, except for
and the modern Italian menu from head chef tables of six or more. The Hibachi table seats 12.
Alan Marchetti is seasonal and simply elegant: Nobu Berkeley
rich, creamy asparagus risotto, veal Milanese The legendary Nobu Matsuhisa is revered Nobu Berkeley
with rocket salad, lobster spaghetti and king worldwide for his new Japanese cuisine and 15, Berkeley Street
scallops, pancetta, young beetroot and celery. first conquered London with Nobu on the 1st London W1J 8DY
floor of Christina Ong’s Park Lane hotel, The Dinner served Monday to Wednesday 18-23h,
The tailoring theme is not laboured, but two Metropolitan. Within six months of opening Thursday to Saturday 18h-midnight and
amusing Jessica Worrall obese tailor’s dummy Nobu Berkeley in 2006, the restaurant earned its Sunday18-21h15
sculptures and Sir Rex Harrison’s patterns for first Michelin Star. Whereas Nobu Metropolitan Reservations: +44 (0)207 290 9222
My Fair Lady (1964) hang discreetly in the private is stark and ascetic, David Collins’ designs for www.noburestaurants.com
dining room. Now that smoking is banned in Nobu Berkeley are lush and sinuous with eau de
London’s restaurants, most of Sartoria’s tape- nil leather banquettes that curve like the road to James Sherwood

Bespoken I 29
PIONEER SPIRIT

THE GODFATHER OF
‘THE ROW’
Angus Cundey, Chairman of Savile Row founders Henry Poole & Co,
talks to Bespoken’s James Sherwood about British craft,
British cloth and the future of the Row.

INTERVIEW whether to bail out the banks or not. Our


orders dropped. We have since returned
Bespoken : It would be fair and have recovered. During a recession,
to say that a pride in English a chap looks for a suit that is going to last
craftsmanship has returned to the for a long time, look elegant, and help him
Row after many years of Italian keep his job or find a new one.
tailoring and cloth dominating
men’s fashion. Would you agree? Are new customers still arriving at
© Henry Poole & Co

Angus Cundey: I am hugely encouraged N° 15 Savile Row?


to see British cloth back at the forefront My head cutter Philip tells me we’re writing-
of international tailoring. Perhaps it up an average of four bespoke orders per
was the case that the Italians flooded the day. There was an amusing story a few
market so it has become more exclusive to weeks ago about a prominent American

A
Angus Cundey, Owner and Chairman of Henry Poole & Co choose cloths woven in Britain when you’re banker who appeared at Poole’s. He
ordering a bespoke suit. It’s equally good declared: ‘I don’t want to see you guys go
ngus Cundey’s news that the British mills seem to be selling under, so, though I don’t need a new suit,
knowledge of an awful lot more abroad than they did. I’ll order one.’ Somewhat ironically, it was
Savile Row history reported a week later that his was one of the
is encyclopaedic, Why are British mills so much in demand? banks bailed out by the US government.
while the vaults at A lot of them – Scabal-owned Bower
N° 15 record more Roebuck included – will sell us cut lengths, It must have been rather annoying for
than two centuries but also sell us cloth by the piece (60 the founders of Savile Row to watch
of illustrious names metres). This kind of ‘ limited edition’, if a new generation such as Ozwald
who have shaped world history: Emperor you like, obviously makes the cloths more Boateng, Richard James and Timothy
Napoleon III, Lord Cardigan (of Light desirable and helps small tailors like Everest arrive in the 1990s, claiming
Brigade fame), King Edward VII, Buffalo ourselves. to be the saviours of bespoke tailoring?
Bill, Charles Dickens, Benjamin Disraeli, It used to make my blood boil when the
Charles de Gaulle, Emperor Hirohito Henry Poole & Co has become famous younger generation was quoted as saying
and Winston Churchill. A new customer for commissioning exclusive cloths, they would ‘reinvent’ Savile Row. That
at Poole’s will find walls ablaze with such as last year’s Churchill chalk made me go absolutely berserk, because we
more than 40 Royal Warrants and a stripe. Has it sold out? didn’t need ‘reinventing’. But I take my hat
ceremonial department that still tailors I think we had two or three lengths left, but off to Richard James and Ozwald Boateng
liveries for Her Majesty the Queen. one of our customers has reserved two lengths for coming round to our way of thinking
Innovations that have emerged from for each of his sons when they come of age. and championing bespoke tailoring. It
Poole’s workrooms include the blueprint also amuses me to see Lanvin Homme open
for white tie (Poole’s New Style Court Does this kind of continuity protect across the street from Henry Poole.
Dress) commissioned by Queen Victoria bespoke tailors from harsh economic
in 1839 and the dinner jacket, first climates? Why?
tailored for the Prince of Wales in 1860. Fortunately, Poole’s has the benefit of It’s where my father sent me to train in Paris.
As Angus Cundey delights in repeating: hindsight. In fact, I looked up our accounts
‘Poole leads and others follow.’ Cundey for 1929-1930 and was heartened to see Do tell the story, please.
is the sixth generation to run his that we turned a profit even after the Wall When I came of age the last thing my father
family’s firm with his son, Simon, now Street Crash and The Great Depression. wanted was to encourage me to come into
the managing director, which brings When we first went to America this the family business. It was my headmaster at
the grand total to seven. An exclusive year, we were in New York the week the time who sat me down and talked some
meeting, with an exclusive gentleman. that Congress couldn’t make up its mind sense into me. ‘Now Cundey,’ he said, ‘have

30 I Bespoken
‘I take my hat off to Richard James
and Ozwald Boateng for coming
round to our way of thinking and
championing bespoke tailoring’

By the time my father was in hospital, I


remember visiting him and saying ‘Father,
I’m moving the company back to Savile
Row.’ I got the most enormous smile - three
days later, he died.

Savile Row is like a family, yes? There


are unsuitable marriages, bitter
divorces, feuds and love affairs but
one thing holds the street together:
the craft of bespoke tailoring that
has been practised for more than 200
© Henry Poole & Co

years. That doesn’t change, surely?


No, but when you’ve been around as long
as Henry Poole, it is inevitable that you
compare yourself with previous generations.
© Henry Poole & Co

My grandfather must have been a very


wealthy man by today’s standards. He was
turning out 12,000 bespoke suits and liveries
a year. He employed 300 people. In 1985,
we were doing about 2,500 bespoke suits.
Henry Poole’s new showroom Today, it’s closer to 1,500.

But bespoke is enjoying a great


you ever considered your wonderful family boutiques of Carnaby Street… renaissance despite – or because of –
business? Henry Poole is the most famous Totally untrue I’m afraid. We had to leave the Row’s notorious discretion. It’s
tailor in the world.’ I had never heard of Savile Row when the old Henry Poole shop not that the wealthy have stopped
anyone speaking in those terms about the was demolished to make way for a car park. spending money during a recession;
firm. When I got home from the holidays, It was a scandal! it’s that they are not seen to spend it.
I’d thought about my future and said ‘Dad, That’s where Savile Row fits into the
would there be a place for me at Henry Incredible to think that this was a mood of the moment. You’ve dressed
Poole?’ My father’s face lit up, he said ‘Yes!’, building where Napoleon III, Edward V, generations of Morgans, Vanderbilts
and that’s how I came into the business. Charles Dickens and Prime Minister and Rothschilds but you’ve never
Disraeli would visit the eponymous advertised the fact, no?
He sent you to Paris for an apprentice- owner and enjoy his brandy and cigars. The kind of man we like? His bonus is
ship with Lanvin, not to the Henry Poole was a gentleman tailor and a a million pounds, so he doesn’t quibble over
Poole & Co shop? great man about town… £10,000 for four suits. But if I boasted to
No, Poole’s in Paris closed after the Second I don’t think my father recovered after the press that he was a customer, I would
World War. I learned my trade as a tailor taking Poole’s off the Row. lose him instantly. Makes it difficult. The
working for Lanvin on the fourth floor first thing tailors are asked is ‘Whom
in the workshops. I think they paid me a Was it your ambition to bring do you dress?’ The press think I’m being
pound a week. Poole’s back? absurd when I reply: ‘I’m like a doctor.
Always. In 1981, N° 15 Savile Row was up I cannot divulge.’
There is a story that Henry Poole moved for grabs because (London Couturier) Hardy
to Cork Street in the 1960s to get Amies had been involved in a licensing deal
even further away from the ‘swinging’ that went pear-shaped and had to retract. James Sherwood

Bespoken I 31
SPRING-SUMMER 2009 TRENDS

TRADITION &
MODERNITY
The comfort of the old, the thrill of the new...
Scabal’s Spring-Summer 2009 Collection embraces both.
T
radition or modernity?
Maybe there is no
contradiction between
the two, just the one
complementing the other.
Scabal combines traditional natural
cloths of the highest quality with
state-of-the-art craftsmanship.
Suit, (left and
right pages)
‘Lifestyle’,
ref. 702281
Suit,
‘Pure Linen’,
ref. 800926
M
inimalistic? Cool?
Yes, somewhat.
But strongly
contemporary and
very relaxed.

Jacket & cloth,


‘Trend’,
ref. 801116
Suit,
‘Lifestyle’,
ref. 702284
M
en have always
dreamed of the sea.
It is a place for
reflection. It is also
a perfect occasion
to wear cool cottons, luxurious linen
blends, whites, lights and blues.
Comfort is the key, with casual
elegance. Far removed from the
distractions of shore…

Suit,
‘Acapulco’,
ref. 851849

Jacket on hanger,
‘Acapulco’,
ref. 851848
Suit,
‘Acapulco’,
ref. 851841
Suit,
‘Lifestyle’,
ref. 702282
B
lack, white and grey
return this summer,
with subtle shades, in
discreet patterns and
timeless style.
Suit,
‘Lifestyle’,
ref. 702284
R
ené Magritte began painting
almost 100 years ago. But could
surrealism be described as
traditional? As with clothing,
quality is essential.

Suit,
‘Lifestyle’,
ref. 702281
Jacket,
‘Acapulco’,
ref. 851848

Trousers,
‘Pure Linen’,
ref. 800926
Jacket,
‘Acapulco’,
ref. 851853

Trousers,
‘Cashmere Cotton’,
ref. 500446

Jacket on hanger,
‘Acapulco’,
ref. 851852
Fabric,
‘Lifestyle’,
ref. 702284

Text: Nigel Bishop


Photographs: David Hughes
Stylish accessories

Scabal’s Spring and


Summer must-haves

“There is a man inside every shirt.” – Johann Wolfgang von Goethe

Linen shirt from the Spring – Summer 2009 Collection

Bespoken I 49
“Accessories should, to my way of thinking, be more about style than fashion,
and have a sophisticated, timeless quality, rather than be slaves to transient trends.” – Giorgio Armani

From left to right: Genuine deerskin belt from the Kemer Collection, silk ties from the Sorento Collection

50 I Bespoken
“The butterfly knot is a gracious accessory, which gives its wearer an immediate attitude.” – Alexis Mabille

Silk tie, bow tie and scarf from the Oxford Collection

Bespoken I 51
CNI_A

“A well-knotted tie is the first serious step in your life.” – Oscar Wilde

Left: Bristol silk tie. Middle and right: Dover silk and linen ties
Photographer: Fotostudio Uyttebroeck
Production: Sylvain Gadeyne
Text: Jérôme Stéfanski

52 I Bespoken
CNI_Ad_Bespoken:Bespoken 17/11/08 11:38 Page 1

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ANTIBES CANNES MONACO GENEVA LONDON PALMA DE MALLORCA PUERTO PORTALS FORT LAUDERDALE NEW YORK NEWPORT MIAMI PALM BEACH
Made-to-measure world

Bespoke yachts bring


new meaning to luxury
While fast cars, made-to-measure suits and hand-made watches
are symbolic of the good life, custom-designed yachts
are heaven on earth (or sea).

© Toni Meneguzzo
© Sargentini

A terrace on the sea with cushions by Wally

54 I Bespoken
‘Clients come to us very well
informed about their vision. They
know exactly what they want and
what is possible. They do not want
“off the shelf”’

T
he term ‘luxury (business, sports, royalty) and “What was once considered wacky or ‘out
© Toni Meneguzzo

yacht’ refers to nationalities. Wally Yachts, based in there’ is now the norm,” laughs Setzer.
a very expensive Monaco, is considered to be one of “Nothing surprises me anymore.”
privately owned the world’s premier yacht designers
and professionally and manufacturers, noted for their It’s easy to ‘ooh’ and ‘aah’ at the bells
crewed vessel. sleek, minimalist design, power and and whistles that seem implausible
Also known comfort – their Who’s Who client list on a boat, but the melding of form
as the ‘Super includes King of Spain Juan Carlos I, and function is a serious business,
Yacht’, it can be either sail or motor Pirelli President Marco Tronchetti and the designers must meet exacting
propelled, and is typically defined Provera and Lindsay Owen-Jones, standards, to match both performance
as being more than 30 metres (98 former chairman of L’Oreal. and clients’ styling demands.
feet) in length, though the trend
nowadays stretches more towards Setzer’s clients are both manufac- “There is a lot of interdependency among
45-91.5m (150-300ft). Where pools turers and individuals and also hail the various systems on board. These yachts
or multiple staterooms used to be from further afield. He is currently need to be self–sufficient entities,” Setzer
the pinnacle of luxury on these designing yachts for private clients in explains. “We [designers] are usually the
floating resorts, today’s mega-yachts Norway, China, the U.S. and Europe first in and the last out on a project, and
are reaching unfathomable levels and in the process of working with first and foremost we need to design
of opulence and innovation, with a Dubai based family who has con- a seaworthy vessel.”
multiple decks and rotating masts tracted Setzer to design a 65m (210ft)
to climate-controlled humidors and sister ship to Brazen Sea, the modern MADE-TO-MEASURE
cinemas, gyms, discos, helipads and flagship of the firm’s new futuristic Marine architects are often working on
floating supply boats. The architects and highly praised Vision Line range dozens of projects at once and the time
of such craft are highly sought after of ‘super yachts’. between the conception and christening
– unsurpassed style is the ultimate of a yacht depends on the size and scope
goal for the world’s wealthy. HEART’S DESIRES of the project. Designers agree that two
The finished product will feature years is the average for yachts measuring
GREAT CLIENTS – six decks with multiple guest cabins around 30m (98ft) but larger vessels
GREAT PROJECTS and VIP staterooms, a fair-weather require more time and can take up to four
Ward Setzer, marine architect and master suite on the upper-most deck, years, including the design cycle, which
founder of the US award-winning and a foul-weather master suite starts with an in-depth understanding of
design firm Setzer Design Group, says below. The 24-member crew will the clients desires and needs. The design
that clients are more savvy than ever be housed in 16 cabins with large team include the architect as well
and push designers to the limit. service spaces, such as a professional as engineers, computer technicians
laundry, three galley (kitchen) and experts in areas such acoustics,
“Clients come to us very well informed spaces, and walk-in refrigerators insulation, air conditioning heating,
about their vision,” says Setzer. “They and freezers. There will be a garage electrical, hydraulics and so forth.
know exactly what they want and what is with space for two 8m vessels, and Preliminary sketches and layouts are
possible. They do not want ‘off the shelf ’”. several jet skis. The infinity pool created and refined, and the use of 3D
on the rear deck, a private owner’s modeling technology provides instant
At one time the reserve of blue blood pool on the top deck, and a state-of- feedback for clients. Hull form designs,
and business dynasties, mega-yacht the-art sound system round out the performance studies and tank testing,
owners today embrace many disciplines impressive list of accoutrements. as well as complicated electrical and

Bespoken I 55
mechanical system schematics are three rotating masts able to store 15

© Scabal
part of the process, as is the interior square sails (five per mast), that can
architectural detailing, wood and fully unfurl into tracks in six minutes
stonework and fixtures. The marine for a total sail area of 2,400 square
architect also works directly with a metres (25,791 square feet).
shipyard to schedule the build, the best
of which are found in the Netherlands, “The Maltese Falcon, with its unusual
Germany, Turkey, Italy, Australia and Dyna Rigg masts, would have looked like
the UK, and provides construction a Chinese Junk if handled poorly,”
documents as well as on-site he quipped.
inspections and reviews. In most cases,
the client brings in their own interior Built by Perini Navi Yildiz Gemi Homage
The founder of Scabal had a passion for boats and
decorator to select custom materials, shipyard in Tuzla (near Istanbul) Turkey, possessed his own yacht (see above).
furnishing, and fabrics that can exceed The Maltese Falcon was built for Tom
hundreds of euros per yard. Perkins, an American business magnate,
and is currently considered the largest
“I have created yachts with 14 different and fastest personal sailing yacht in the strength and seaworthiness, to cope
types of crown mouldings and seen world. The Maltese Falcon has two 1800 with the unforgiving conditions of
woodwork that cost $4 million alone,” horse-power Deutz engines running at northern European seas.
Setzer emphasizes. “We’ll go as 1800rpm, a top speed of 20 knots, with
extravagant as the client wishes to go.” minimal wave-making and virtually no That tradition has not been forgotten
vibration or noise. and innovation has been seamlessly
Ken Freivokh and his team of integrated into the process.
designers are no strangers to the task SHIPBUILDING TRADITIONS The Royal Huisman shipyard has
of designing dream yachts. His firm Though shipbuilding is centuries brought lightweight components
is known for its innovative design and old, technology such as is found on such as interiors made from foam-
‘out of the box’ solutions and for The The Maltese Falcon plays a key role in cored structures and aluminium
Maltese Falcon, the ship that launched meeting the ever-pressing demands superstructure hulls to an art form.
a thousand awards for this UK-based of professional sailors and pleasure Constant demand for distinguishing
company. While Freivokh says it was, cruisers. Royal Huisman Yachts in features is not lost on Royal Huisman
to date, his greatest accomplishment, Holland is heralded by world-class and their creative teams offer clever
the design also presented a most sailors and yachtsmen alike as best- additions to clients, such as a crow’s
unusual request. The 88m (289ft) yacht in-class when it comes to quality and nest, which can be hosted to the top
is like nothing on the water today – performance. The family-run business of a 60-metre carbon-fibre mast. The
the revolutionary sailing system, began building wooden boats in company’s vertically integrated model
referred to as the Dyna Rigg, set a new Vollenhove, Holland, in 1884 – and in-house disciplines strengthen
milestone in yachting history with the primary requirement then was the yard’s reputation. More than
© C. Levêcque

© Sargentini

© Sargentini

Ken Freivokh, yacht designer Interior of The Maltese Falcon

56 I Bespoken
‘Building a private yacht is a long-
term relationship; it’s more than
a business’
© Tom Nitsch & Hans Wessterink

Royal Huisman’s sumptuous chambers

400 skilled employees work in a


comprehensive 30,000 square metre
facility that houses computer aided
design rooms, machine and plasma
shops, a paint hall and metal working
hall and the company’s offices. “To
have a client understand this business we
show him everything about our company,”
said Alice Huisman, managing they’ve sold two to date, at a price tag and styling cost of somewhere between
director and fourth- generation family of $35 million each, to Middle East 2.5 and 5 per cent of the project value.
member. “Building a private yacht is a clients. The company recently released But really, they say, the sky’s the limit.
long-term relationship; it’s more than a a new model called Allure, a 61m And spending doesn’t stop once the
business. We show the client we have the (200ft) vamped-up shadow yacht that boat is christened (with high-quality
best people, that we invest in constant replaced the former warehouse hangar champagne, no doubt).
training programs, and we keep our team decor with plusher surroundings These private palaces require full time
at the forefront of new developments… we including six staterooms, a pool, crews of anywhere from 6 to 24 salaried
believe in ourselves and we remain focused sky lounge, theater, games room staff, and estimated operating costs
on our craft.” and mini-gym. The yachts can also start at around $1.5 million per year
accommodate up to 500 people. “We for a 45-metre/150-feet yacht, when
SHADOW YACHT: are constantly striving to create new taking into account fuel, dockage,
THE ULTIMATE ACCESSORY applications for our unique concept of maintenance, and insurance. “Building
If it appears that mega-yacht creativity what a mega-yacht should be. Our goal Utopia is not an easy task, nor is it cheap,”
and spending couldn’t grow any more is to provide our clients with the ultimate says Setzer.
monumental, fear not, as a new jaw- yachting experience, without limitations,”
dropping mega-yacht accessory has says Shadow Marine. For creative billionaires and designers
emerged: the shadow yacht. This is a willing to accommodate them, these
trailing vessel that follows the main THE SKY’S THE LIMIT mega-yachts are the ultimate status
yacht and acts as a garage for the Such luxury and innovation doesn’t symbol, blending unparalleled
owner’s collection of helicopters, cars, come cheap and pricing for a custom- personal expression with top-notch
motorcycles, motorboats and other designed yacht depends on the size and performance. It’s the ultimate made-
‘necessities’. The boats can also carry scope of the project. The dollars are in to-order embellishment for anyone
fuel, spare parts and supplies allowing the details, says Setzer, who estimates limited only by their imagination.
for long-haul trips and remote travel. that $1 million per metre is not far off
Shadow Marine of Ft. Lauderdale, the mark for a completed yacht, and
Fla. USA, is the main builder, and Freivokh estimates an interior design Kimberley Lovato

Bespoken I 57
THE BESPOKE COACH

Keeping up
seaside appearances
Karl Lagerfeld once said that he felt more comfortable sitting on the beach
in the shade of a parasol wearing shirt and tie and hand-tailored suit than
the “poor people who sit in their swimming trunks in the sun”.
This may seem a strange idea, but is in fact perfectly normal for classic-dress lovers,
says our Bespoke Coach, Bernhard Roetzel...

© Scabal

Gentlemen’s seaside holidays by Scabal


ref. 701414

58 I Bespoken
Today’s gentlemen are inspired by the past, when beachwear was more sophisticated but less comfortable

T
here was a time clothes with him but nevertheless pink cotton slacks or dark grey tropical
when people the sophisticated holidaymaker will worsted. The Duke of Windsor even
dressed up for need more than a pair of shorts and a had matching trousers made for his
their holidays couple of T-shirts.
instead of dressing Dress shirts are
down, as seems If we assume that a summer holiday is
customary likely to be spent in the sun somewhere
a gentleman’s
nowadays. Those at the seaside or on board a ship or everyday
were the days when gentlemen didn’t yacht, we will need at least one formal companion and,
rush around the globe in jet planes, but outfit. It depends on the setting as to even when on
travelled more slowly but in style on whether a dinner jacket or navy blazer
trains that resembled luxurious hotels. is necessary, but if parties are to be
holiday, he
According to the time needed to reach expected, a dinner jacket should form refuses to wear
destinations, the number of days spent part of the holiday wardrobe. Black a T-shirt
there was greater. People didn’t stay for or midnight blue would be perfectly
a fortnight but rather a month or two acceptable colours but of course navy blazer, thus creating a mixture
when they needed a rest. white (or rather, off-white) is also an of a lounge suit and an odd jacket plus
excellent choice. The rules say that if trousers. If the navy blazer seems a
DRESSING FOR THE HOLIDAYS it is worn onboard ships and under bit overdone, one may opt instead for
Consequently, the wardrobe needed the open sky, thus it should also be a sports jacket – a linen and silk blend
was much larger. In a German book chosen for cruises and garden parties. would be just right for warmer climes.
on menswear published in 1913, the Nevertheless, one can wear a white If the suit must be part of a holiday
list of garments needed for a holiday dinner jacket on other occasions wardrobe, the most classic and elegant
in Nice includes evening tailcoat, as well. choice of material is silk. It has been
cutaway, frock coat, sport coats (“one part of Riviera chic since the 1920s
cannot take too many” ) and several A navy blazer could be chosen instead and there is nothing that compares to a
overcoats. In addition, a large number of the evening suit, if there is no need silk suit for relaxed formality and easy
of shirts, ties, pyjamas, sportswear, for very formal clothes. The beauty of elegance. Cream, brown or blue would
hats and gloves were taken – the the blazer lies in its versatility. It can be colours that suit the sky, the sea and
modern gentleman will carry fewer be paired with white linen trousers, the sand of the beaches.

Bespoken I 59
relaxed yet still refined style matching
Swimming trunks
© Scabal

white linen shorts with loafers of soft


suede leather. Some men like to add a should be cut
preppy touch by wearing knee-length like boxershorts
socks and welted shoes with their
Bermuda shorts – others may even top - any shape that
this off with a blazer or sports jacket. reveals too
The international dress code does not much is not
acknowledge this match, however, desirable for
because shorts are strictly reserved for
casual wear, thus no hybrid matches a gentleman
are acceptable – and never forget that
the Italians are very strict in matters families wear them today.
of dress. Shorts are not considered Shoes can be a serious problem for
suitable off the beach in their country, lovers of classic dress on holiday.
so take care to don at least a pair of Flip-flops may be comfortable and
well-pressed cotton chinos. But why right for the beach but no self-
not show a heightened sense of quality respecting gentleman would want to
and style by having your shorts made be seen in a pair of them anywhere
Never forget your Scabal navy blazer! by your tailor? else. Espadrilles are a more stylish
and continental alternative, although
Normally, even devotees of classic their fit cannot satisfy feet used to
Dress shirts are a gentleman’s everyday tailoring will not have their swimming the comfort of welted shoes. Boat
companion and, even when on holiday, he trunks and robes individually made shoes seem to be the choice for most
refuses to wear a T-shirt even though the for them. Rather, they will choose men and it is probably hard to find a
Duke of Windsor used to wear them something in plain colours such as gentleman who does not own a pair.
as early as in the 1930s when he stayed navy, bottle-green or red or with fancy Yet these shoes are fairly casual and
in the South of France. Nevertheless, patterns. A Madras plaid would be don’t look right with a suit or even
there are stylish alternatives, such as considered as suitable and, of course, a navy blazer.
the cotton piqué shirt in white, navy, rococo patterns are okay at the beach.
pink or bottle green. Similar in cut but Swimming trunks should be cut like Fortunately the range of welted shoes
slightly more refined are knitted shirts boxer shorts – any shape that reveals too includes some summer classics. The
of fine Merino wool or silk. They come much is not desirable for a gentleman. most flamboyant is the two-tone
in more subdued colours than their spectator in black and white or brown
cotton counterparts because they were GET AHEAD and white. For those who perhaps
never intended for sport. A gentleman The hat has become ever more popular find these a bit too much, a classic
never wears short sleeves in the office in recent years following a decline for Oxford with linen uppers and leather
but at the seaside they have been several decades since the late 1960s. toe caps in a light brown or cream
perfectly acceptable since the 1920s. The summer holiday is a perfect might be more wearable. If worn with
Even the Prince of Wales has been seen occasion for headwear, because we socks of lightest wool or silk these
in them on informal occasions, such as are exposed to the sun more than at will be comfortable and stylish at the
visits to the Spanish Royal family. any other time in the year. A genuine same time.
Panama is a very stylish choice and
SHORT TERMS the current fashion for hats will tempt You see? Keeping up appearances at
Shorts have never been part of a formal even younger men to elegantly protect the seaside can be so easy…
wardrobe, but they have become a their heads. Baseball caps should be
holiday classic for casual day wear. reserved for very informal occasions,
Most modern gentlemen will choose a although even members of certain royal Bernhard Roetzel

60 I Bespoken
Interview

Ben Ainslie:
A modern British sailor
Last Autumn, Bespoken invited the famous English sailor to come to
Scabal’s Savile Row flagship store to order a made-to-measure suit.
© Richard Langdon

Ben Ainslie: England’s pride and joy

Bespoken I 61
I
n August of 2008, the

© S. Papandropoulos
world watched as Beijing
presented and staged
the most elaborate and
arguably the best Olympic
and Paralympic Games
in history. From its
organization, the beautiful
architecture that made
up its venues, the enthusiasm of the
audiences and the opening and closing
ceremonies, Beijing’s showmanship
was there for everyone to see.

While for the vast majority of us who


were just watching the games on TV,
the event was exciting enough, the
athletes taking part were putting their
reputations on the line. All their years
of training and effort spent hoping to Ben at work Ben Ainslie at Scabal’s Savile Row store
achieve what would be, for them, the
ultimate sporting prize.
in the Laser Class. However, this successful Finn Class sailor.
For some, their goal was achieved – was only the beginning – while The world-title domination was
unless you are that individual or team his numerous European and world then complemented by Ben taking
and have a personal understanding titles are truly impressive, for most yet another gold medal in the 2004
and appreciation of what it takes to win the ultimate sporting arena is the Olympic Games in Athens.
an Olympic Gold medal, it is a victory Olympic Games, and winning a gold
beyond imagination. medal there is what distinguishes the As before, Ben returned to team sailing
real champions. He achieved this in and as part of the Emirates Team New
Many stories of individual endeavour 2000 in Sydney when, after racing as Zealand America’s Cup Challenge
to reach the Games became apparent part of the crew for the One World crew, lost out the defending champions,
as we watched and, while for some this Challenge America’s Cup campaign, the Swiss syndicate Team Alinghi.
was their first success, for others it was a he succeeded in the Laser Class However, his involvement in what
continuation of previous triumphs from competition and was able to wear, for is seen as the ultimate in team race
preceding Olympics. One such story was the first time, an Olympic gold medal. sailing has continued and, as skipper
that of the British sailor, Ben Ainslie. of Team Origin, he will lead the British
Ben seemed challenge for the 33rd America’s Cup
PASSION AND race in 2009, hoping to bring the prize
DETERMINATION
destined to be to Great Britain for the very first time.
Born in 1977 in the north of England a sailor from
but raised in Cornwall, a region noted an early age While The America’s Cup Challenge
for its dramatic and picturesque represents unfinished business to Ben
coastline, Ben seemed destined to be a NEW FOCUS in terms of still being there to be won,
sailor from an early age. Needing a new focus, Ainslie now his desire to achieve a third gold medal
concentrated on the Finn Class of at the Beijing Olympics was realized in
He began sailing aged eight and under boat, which required a totally new the Finn Class of boat.
the considerable influence of his father approach because of the larger vessel
Roddy – an established sailor who had size and the need to increase his body It is hard for us mere mortals to
skippered the crew of Second Life in weight considerably to maximize comprehend winning one gold medal,
the first-ever Whitbread Round the his potential racing capability. A never mind three plus a silver. But it
World Race of 1973-4 – he consequently gruelling training regime followed, is arguably even more impressive that
perfected his technique and skill to but this was suitably rewarded as he Ben has done it over a period of just
become world champion in the Laser continued his successes by dominating twelve years. To be dominant in one
Radial boat class aged just 16. all before him in the Finn World Games is reward enough for all those
Championships – first winning in hours of training and sacrifice, but to
This success was to continue when he 2002 and then going on to retain the maintain this level of excellence and
achieved his first Olympic medal – title for a further three consecutive dedication over such a period of time
silver in the 1996 Atlantic Games years, thus making him the most takes someone truly special.

62 I Bespoken
‘I am very impressed, it is a smart
showroom in a great location’

© S. Papandropoulos

Ben with Scabal’s Ricky Sahota

BEN’S CHOICES anthracite, beige and blue shades. The slight sheen
Suit — Ben chose a silk and wool fabric from the Sleek and the finely structured grounds give the collection a
collection, reference 750981, mid/light grey. Scabal made luxurious and unique elegance.
it in a one-button peak lapel style with flat front trousers. Watch — During our meeting with Ben, we were impressed
The Sleek collection offers cool-smooth comfort in the by the wonderful watch he wears: The Admiral’s Cup Tides
summer, combined with an exceptional elegant look. The by Corum. He confided to us that this Swiss watch brand
range is divided into two parts with different proportions and he go back quite a way - the company was his first ever
of silk, for a variety of occasions. Both parts include sponsor, making him the proud owner of a Corum watch,
comprehensive plains and delicate stripes in urban grey, when he began his professional sailing career at the age of 17.

Bespoken I 63
INTERVIEW easy ride so being determined as to where race. As a sailor, would winning this
I wanted to go was important, plus I have be the ultimate honour?
Bespoken : You recently won your always had a clear vision as to what I want On an individual basis, the Olympics is
third gold medal at the Beijing to achieve. Having goals has helped me the ultimate achievement but from a team
Olympics, how did it feel in along the way. point of view, it’s sailing in The America’s
comparison to the previous two? Cup. So for me, winning both would
Ben Ainslie: It actually felt the best in a Being physically fit must be be the ultimate and I feel I would have
way because the final race of the series was paramount. Do you have a tailor-made achieved everything.
held in superb sailing conditions and to be training regime that you follow?
able to win the gold medal and the race in Yes, I have a physiologist who puts Away from racing, what do you do to
that way was just fantastic. together a programme for the British relax?
sailing team and then I work with I love playing golf but I don’t play enough,
What is it like to hear your national personal trainers. It results in being so I am really rubbish, but it is something
anthem being played at the medal about 20 hours a week in the gym that I really enjoy when I have the time.
ceremony? and then three to five hours of sailing I enjoy reading books, watching movies,
A huge sense of pride and a huge practice, six days per week. It’s a very catching up with friends and family and
sense of relief as you work so hard for time-intensive sport. just being at home – I spend about 80 per
something and your expectations are so cent of the year away from home.
high. Obviously you are very proud to be How important is the psychological
representing Great Britain when the Union aspect of your preparations, both before If you were not a sailor, what do
Jack is going up the flagpole. and during competition – do you have a you think you would have liked to
specific person to whom you can turn? have been?
Britain has, throughout history, had No, I have never really worked with a I would have loved to have been a racing
a strong relationship with sailing and psychologist but with the more experience car driver – formula one.
the sea – do you think this has had a I get I understand how the aspect of
bearing on why it has a reputation for psychology affects everything you do but What words would you use to describe
producing good sailors? sub-consciously I feel that I have been yourself?
I think that when you look back through doing the necessary mental routines Passionate, determined, private.
history at people such as Sir Francis already. I guess at the moment my attitude
Drake and Nelson, and then Sir Francis because of my success is “ if it’s not broke, Visiting Scabal, what are your
Chichester, Sir Robin Knox-Johnston and don’t fix it”. impressions?
Dame Ellen MacArthur, we have reason to Very impressed, it is a smart showroom
be a very proud nation. How do you feel when you lose a race – in a great location. Looking through the
does it make you more determined to fabric ranges there is a huge variety – it
It was a particularly successful change the outcome the next time? is quite astonishing to see the detailing
Olympics for the British team – did you It hurts. I deal with it better than I used to that’s possible in the suits. I was surprised
get the opportunity, while you were when I was younger, but it always hurts that it was a far less intensive process than
in China, to share in the celebrations when you are a competitive person. I am I thought. The amount of measurements
with the other British competitors? a bad loser inside but I am much better needed were fewer than I thought and I
Yes, after finishing racing I went to Beijing externally with dealing it. really look forward to the end result as it
and met up with the team at the closing will be a much better-fitting and quality
ceremony and joined in with the fantastic Is there any person you look to for suit than normal for me. Sportsmenn,
atmosphere. One of the most positive things inspiration? because of their physique, can find it
was that we were already talking about the Yes, a number of people. My coaches, and difficult to wear a suit well.
next Olympics! my father has always been a great person to
turn to for support and in terms of sailing, The coming months and years look
The 2012 Olympics will take place in Russell Coutts, who has achieved a huge busy for Ben, with The America’s Cup
Great Britain. Have you committed to amount in the sport. plus the 2012 Olympics high on his
taking part and, if so, how much will agenda of new goals. The necessity for
it mean to be competing in your own In the future, could you see yourself, planning, preparation and practice
country? because of your own experiences, in are key elements to his future success
Yes, the intention is to compete in the the role of a mentor to up-and-coming and, while his current curriculum vitae
Finn Class in 2012. It will be a once-in- sailing talent? would be enough for most, it is obvious
a-lifetime opportunity to compete in the I think so, as when I was younger I looked that he has his mind on even greater
Olympics on your own soil – it will be up to older guys to try and learn from what achievements.
extra special for sure. they did and their experiences. When I
look at Sir Steve Redgrave working in the His success has been recognised by
From an early age you seemed role for the British Olympic Committee, the Queen of England, who awarded
destined to be a sailor; do you perhaps when I am finished then that will him an MBE and OBE. Perhaps, in the
think there is anything different in be something that I could help with. future, he will be known as Sir Ben
your psyche that makes you more Ainslie – a modern British sailor.
successful than others? You will be the skipper of Team
A lot of determination, which you need in Origin, the British entry in the
sport and life in general. It’s not always an forthcoming America’s Cup Challenge Stephen Papandropoulos

64 I Bespoken
THE GOURMET PLACE

Seafront selection
To be found in some of the world’s most beautiful harbours and marinas,
these five culinary gems are worth setting sail for.

Cipriani Rhodes Mezzanine to his own showroom. Only a few minutes


Grosvenor House Hotel from the popular Victoria & Alfred
West Marina Beach Waterfront harbour, its trendy chef
Dubai dishes out witty barbs to clients from
United Arab Emirates the open kitchen, and serve up exquisite
T. +971 4 399 8888 meals using the finest ingredients with
www.grosvenorhouse-dubai.com international flair.

Quay The Showroom


10 Hospital Street, Harbour Edge, Green Point
Cape Town,
When the biggest names in fashion, South Africa
entertainment and business want to T. +27 (21) 421 4682
forego meals prepared on their yachts www.theshowroomrestaurant.co.za
anchored in the turquoise waters of the
Porto Cervo Marina and head to dry Voya
land, they go to Cipriani. The candle-lit,
three-level restaurant is part of one of the
Mediterranean’s most exclusive private
summer clubs, The Billionaire, and offers Named Restaurant of the Year by both
exquisite cuisine from its perched location the Sydney Morning Herald 2009 Good Food
over the Gulf of Pevero. Guide Awards and the Australian Gourmet
Traveller 2009 Restaurant Guide Awards,
Cipriani Quay and Chef Peter Gilmore have earned
Via Rocce Sul Pevero a nationwide reputation that is sizzling hot!
Localita’Golfo Pero 07020 If the views over Darling Harbour and the
Porto Cervo, Sardinia, celebrated Opera House don’t have you
Italy singing your own aria, the creative menu
T. +39 0789 94192 and alchemistic flavour pairings will. Allow your senses to be taken on a
www.cipriani.com journey at Voya, (from the word voyage),
Quay at Vancouver’s Coal Harbour. Chef Marc-
Rhodes Mezzanine Overseas Passenger Terminal André Choquette combines his classical
The Rocks, Sydney 2000, training as a French-Asian cuisine
Australia specialist and his exalted work at the
T. +61 2 9251 5600 award-winning Lumière restaurant to
www.quay.com.au create a variety of tantalizing dishes served
in a glamorous room reminiscent of a
The Showroom sophisticated 1940s eatery.

Voya
Loden Hotel
1177 Melville Street
This 45-story neon tower overlooking the Vancouver, B.C.
exclusive Dubai Marina is a fixture on the Canada
desert social scene, and houses a similarly T. +1 877 225 6336
dazzling culinary oasis. Michelin-star chef www.lodenvancouver.com
Gary Rhodes’s restaurant, with its cool
white spaces and richly upholstered jewel-
toned chairs, has become one of the most Once the chef at the Cape Grace Hotel’s
renowned eateries in Dubai, and is the place acclaimed One Waterfront restaurant,
on the water for discerning diners to enjoy Bruce Robertson has brought his playful
masterfully created, delicious works of art. attitude and passion for creative cuisine Kimberley Lovato

Bespoken I 65
AGENDA

Regatta round-up
Whether you sail the seven seas with the best, or simply like to sit back
and watch the action, regattas are a time-honoured tradition, many of which have
been around more than a hundred years. Set course for one of these illustrious events
and be a part of maritime merriment.

© Jacques Vapillon/DIMC
Maktoum Sailing Trophy, Dubai

Maktoum Sailing Trophy Albert became the regatta’s first royal George IV in 1820. One of the most
patron – since then, the reigning monarch endearing traditions of Cowes Week is the
21-29 February 2009, has always been patron, thus preserving spectacular fireworks display on the final
Dubai, United Arab Emirates the event’s royal title. The regatta includes Friday, which has taken place every year
www.maktoumsailingtrophy.com exciting, head-to-head competitions, raced since the inaugural event.
along a one mile (2,112 metre) course on the
The prestigious Maktoum Sailing Trophy River Thames. The most prestigious event Port of Dartmouth
Regatta is the biggest in the region and at the regatta is the Grand Challenge Cup Royal Regatta
consists of ten inshore races and one for Men’s Eights, which has been awarded
offshore passage race for individual yachts. since the regatta was first staged. 27-29 August 2009,
The five-day event attracts some of the Dartmouth, Devon, United Kingdom
world’s leading yachtsmen – perfect for Skandia Cowes Week www.dartmouthregatta.co.uk
those who love the sun, sea and sport, the
Maktoum Sailing Trophy is one to watch. 1-8 August 2009, The Port of Dartmouth Royal Regatta takes
Cowes, Isle of Wight, United Kingdom place annually over three days at the end
Henley Royal Regatta www.skandiacowesweek.co.uk of August. The first-recorded Regatta in
Dartmouth took place in 1822, with three
1-5 July 2009, Cowes Week is one of the world’s premier sailing races and one six-oared gig race
Henley-on-Thames, Oxfordshire, sailing regattas, with almost 1,000 followed by a ball at Dartmouth Castle. In
United Kingdom yachts and 8,000 competitors taking 1856, it became a Royal Regatta when bad
www.hrr.co.uk part. The event’s rich heritage attracts weather forced an unscheduled visit by Queen
a wide range of competitors. More than Victoria, Prince Albert and the Prince of
The Henley Royal Regatta is an annual 100,000 spectators watch the sailing each Wales the day before the scheduled start. The
rowing race held by the town of Henley-on- year, to enjoy the parties and unique Queen donated £25 and Prince Albert gave
Thames, England. It was first held in 1839 atmosphere. The festival originates from £20 to be competed for by the sailors. Before
and has been held every year since, except the Prince Regent’s interest in yachting, leaving, the Queen bestowed ‘Royal’ on the
during the two World Wars. In 1851, Prince which continued after he became Regatta. Each year, the organizers write to the

66 I Bespoken
Monarch for Royal Patronage. The patron is the island State of Tasmania), then down during World War II. The Newport Bermuda
now Prince Andrew, Duke of York. The Port the east coast of Tasmania. At Tasman Race welcomes first time racers as well as
of Dartmouth Regatta ranks as one of the best Island the fleet turns right into Storm Bay seasoned veterans to participate and over the
in Britain. for the final sail up the Derwent River to past 100 years, some 4,500 boats and 46,000
the historic port city of Hobart. men and women have raced to Bermuda with
Regates Royales de Cannes the spirit of adventure in their sails.
America’s Cup
20-27 September 2009, Volvo Ocean Race
Cannes, France Dates and locations vary
www.regatesroyales.com (next race in 2010) Every three years, October,
www.americascup.com varied ports of call (next race 2011)
Every year, the Regates Royales de Cannes, www.volvooceanrace.org
often referred to as the ‘Cowes of the By far the most famous and prestigious
Mediterranean’, attracts more than 150 regatta and match race in the sport of sailing, The Volvo Ocean Race is an exceptional
yachts to the glamorous coast of southern and the oldest active trophy in international test of sailing prowess. During the nine
France. Although the first edition of the sport. Historically held every four years, months of the 2008-09 race, which started
International Regattas of Cannes unfurled though this has changed in recent times, the in Alicante, Spain in October 2008 and
in 1906, it was only at their 20th event that event attracts top sailors and yacht designers. concludes in St. Petersburg, Russia,
they became royal, in honour of Danish The cup was originally called the Royal Yacht during late June 2009, the teams will
King Christian X’s participation in the event Squadron Cup, but is now named after the sail over 37,000 nautical miles in some of
from 1912 to 1947. Abandoned in 1964, the first yacht to win the trophy, the schooner the world’s roughest seas via Cape Town,
regatta was revived by the Yacht Club of America. The trophy remained in the hands Kochi, Singapore, Qingdao, around Cape
Cannes in 1978. of the New York Yacht Club of the United Horn to Rio de Janeiro, Boston, Galway,
States from 1852 until 1983 when the Cup Gothenburg and Stockholm. The seven
Phuket King’s Cup Regatta was won by the challenger, Australia II of boats have 11 crew and are pushed to the
Australia, ending the longest winning streak limits as they race day and night. In 1973,
29 November – 6 December 2009, in the history of sport. Although the The Whitbread Around The World Race,
Phuket, Thailand America’s Cup competition is as much about the longest, most demanding sporting
www.kingscup.com design technology as it is about sailing boats, contest the world had known began and the
superior speed is rarely enough to win a race newly named Volvo Ocean Race was run for
The Phuket King’s Cup Regatta is Asia's on its own. The 17 active crew members are the first time in 2001-02. It is undeniably
biggest and most popular regatta. at the top of their game and their combined the world’s premier global team race.
Inaugurated in 1987 to celebrate the 60th skill is essential to win. Alinghi was the last
birthday of His Majesty King Bhumibol of winner, in 2007. The Vendée-Globe
Thailand, the event has been held every Challenge
year since, always during the first week of Newport Bermuda Race
December, to celebrate the King's birthday Every four years in November
on the 5th. A yachting enthusiast himself, Every two years in mid-June (next race 2012),
he is also the event’s patron. (next race 2010) Les Sables D’Olonne, France
Newport, Rhode Island, USA www.vendeeglobe.org
Rolex Sydney Hobart www.bermudarace.com
Yacht Race This non-stop, single-handed and unaided
The Newport Bermuda Race is a 635 nautical- sailing race departs every four years from
Begins 26 December 2009, mile race crossing a stretch of the Atlantic the Vendée port of Les Sables-d’Olonne.
Sydney, Australia Ocean known for challenging weather. The Vendée-Globe Challenge has been
www.rolexsydneyhobart.com Every two years over 180 boats start from the called ‘the Everest of the sea’ – its origins
picturesque seaport of Newport, Rhode lie in the voyage made by the Canadian,
Over the past 63 years, the Rolex Island. The fleet has five divisions to allow Joshua Slocum, the first of the great
Sydney Hobart has become an icon of seaworthy boats of many sizes and types to single-handed circumnavigators, who
Australian sport, and the 628 nautical- be raced for an array of trophies awarded sailed the 42,000 kilometres in three
mile course is often described as the in Bermuda at Government House, the years, finishing in 1895. A hundred years
most gruelling ocean race in the world, a residence of the governor of this tropical later, today’s non-stop sailors accomplish
challenge for all who take part. A dazzling island. The first Bermuda Race started this incredible feat in around three
start in Sydney Harbour draws media and in 1906 with just three entries. The race months. The race is open to a maximum of
spectators to the water as the fleet sails out was held several times in the 1900’s and 25 60ft monohulls, and is an arduous test
into the Tasman Sea, down the south-east 1920’s but it wasn’t until 1926 that a of individual endurance.
coast of mainland Australia, across Bass regular schedule was set. This schedule has
Strait (which divides the mainland from continued to the present except for a hiatus Kimberley Lovato

Bespoken I 67
SCABAL ACROSS THE SEAS

Sartoria Caprese
in Capri
As this edition of Bespoken carries a nautical theme, it seemed logical
to present a Scabal client, Roberto Russo, who has a boutique near the sea
on the island of Capri.

© Sean William
The Capri coastline

L
et’s say you start at also walked past 15 of Roberto Russo’s in the south. From the Via Camarelle it
the Via Acquaviva 34 shops. But, as he explains: “They are is only a few hundred metres down to
in Capri. You pass not all owned by us.” the waterfront.
under the world-
famous clock tower This is including the utterly exclusive NOT ENOUGH HOURS
on the Piazza Sartoria Caprese and his restaurant During my interview with Russo, the
Umberto – the only Edode, a Greek word that means financial crisis is still in full swell. “We’ve
place in the world ‘portion of food’: “All we serve comes been growing very quickly and sometimes
known simply as the Piazetta and the from the island. The best quality food it has it’s getting complicated. There should be 48
most cosy open-sky living room that you to offer. The best fish, the best cheese, the hours in a day. Maybe it’s better to have just
could wish for. On you go, under the best pasta,” Russo claims. one shop or to go back to the farm to work
arc onto the Via Vittorio Emmanuele The town of Capri snuggles on the the land and fish. Or I might run my own
and left into the Via Camarelle – you gentle slopes of a hilltop that separates ‘albergo’. Perhaps I’ll have to do this in my
have not only passed some of the best the Marina Grande in the north of next life?”
shopping streets in the world, you’ve Isola di Capri from the Marine Picola

68 I Bespoken
‘We sell strictly tailor-made for men
and women, rigorously made by hand’

It is hard to believe this comes from from the very best fabrics in the world.

© U. Daniello
a suave and agreeable businessman Fabrics so light they feel like nothing in
who is known not only as the ‘Fashion the hand. It doesn’t seem like you are
Guru’ and ‘Retail Magnate’ of Capri wearing them, but at the same time you’re
but also ‘The Lord of Tennis’. Being better dressed than you have ever been.
a Virgo, he certainly has an eye for It’s real luxury.”
detail and the Chinese sign of the Dog
stands for superb salesmanship, as all But, even at Sartoria Caprese, it is
Dogs know. He has a love for the fine sometimes difficult to serve a client.
cloth that Scabal produces running in Roberto Russo remembers how, in
his veins, as he comes from a family of July 2007, a very important Saudi
island weavers, whose looms produced prince, surrounded by bodyguards,
the highest quality silks and wools. came to the shop to have a suit made to
When Russo Senior died much too measure. “The only problem was that he
early in 1983, Roberto inherited his was quite heavy: 185kg. When we take the
father’s exclusive men’s and women’s size of the waist, normally one measuring
fashion shop when he was only 25. tape will do the job, but here we needed
It took him a few years to get into full another half metre. We used two tapes.”
swing but, once he got started, who Roberto Russo
was going to stop this tall young man TENNIS PRO
with his bald head, warm dark eyes When Russo was just eight years old,
and engaging smile? the only two sports available on the
island were football and tennis. When only a tenth of its potential. It has endless
FAMILY FORTUNES he took over the ailing 70-year-old resources: from history to tourism to tennis
The shop his father owned in 1922 tennis club and founded the Capri to sailing. Capri is known throughout the
was founded in 1868 and sold food Sport Academy in 2002, little did he world and the whole world visits here.”
and cloth together. Roberto Russo first know that in five years, his team would
built his fashion empire but could not win the Italian nationals. Or did he? It started with Phoenicians and
stop himself acquiring, four years ago, “I simply applied the business rules of Greeks, then came the Roman
a food shop, to sell: “The best ham, the football to tennis,” he explains. emperors: Augustus who acquired
best salami, the best cheese”. Following “You need tenacity to succeed and Capri by trading another island and
a lazy walk up from their yacht, his inspiration and talent but, above all, Tiberius who had 12 villas built
very genteel clients often come to organizational and managerial capacities.” there. Two millennia later, the list
the Sartoria Caprese to see their suit He also co-launched, as vice-president of famous names grows longer with
grow under the hands of their tailor – of the Yacht Club Capri, the Rolex every generation – the island has
Roberto will then send for a bottle of Capri Sailing week, which attracts been visited by Queen Victoria, Oscar
wine and some mozzarella buffalo sailors from all over the world just Wilde, Somerset Maugham, Norman
from his shop. before the start of the Mediterranean Douglas and Thomas Mann, singer
racing season. Gracie Fields, actresses Sophia Loren
Sartoria Caprese is certainly an Does he consider himself a candidate and Gina Lollobrigida, Onassis
exclusive boutique. In a cosy atelier- when he states that the island needs a and his Jacki, Grace Kelly, Roberto
like ambiance, with shaded windows city manager? “I hope I still have some Rossellini and Ingrid Bergman.
that look out onto the piazzetta and good years in front of me. I’m an only So, how many of today’s jet-set are
are surrounded by exquisite Italian child. I’m married and we have two girls – Russo’s clients? Roberto merely
antiques, those in the know come to Georgia who is 15 and Victoria, 11. It’s smiles. The secrets of his famous
meet their tailor. “We sell strictly tailor- a perfect island to grow up on, without clients are safe with him.
made for men and women, rigorously made any problems. We can keep our doors
by hand,” says Russo. “This is maybe only open while we sleep, there are no cars, www.russocapri.com/store.html
5 per cent of our business, but for us it is the children can go to school alone. Over
very important. Our clients can choose the past 30 years the island has realized Joséphine Overeem

Bespoken I 69
SUIT THERAPY

Good clean advice…


In collaboration with leading organization World’s Best Cleaners (WBC),
Bespoken offers tips on how best to maintain your favourite garments.

© Mark Grealish Photography


Dry cleaning is a real science

C
hoosing the correct maintain the original integrity of your suit? “A suit worn for an evening event
suit is child’s play garments. But the operative phrase here would only require cleaning every four to
compared with is ‘proper cleaning.’ It’s a real skill and a five wears, with a re-finishing after the
deciding how to real science. Unfortunately, few countries third – depending on whether the garment
clean it – the better impose any sort of procedural regulation, is properly stored after each wear. If it’s a
quality the suit, which means that just about anyone can suit that you wear to the office every day, it
the greater the become a dry cleaner.” should be cleaned every two to three wears.”
fear. Dry-cleaner
horror stories and WHEN SHOULD I WASH MY SUIT? Lastly, do you use a lot of health and
contradicting care advice abound, According to White, when it comes beauty aids? “Hair gel, cologne, deodorant,
leaving gentlemen confused. Some to caring for a good suit, factor in a antiperspirants all make their way into the
manufacturers go so far as to few variables: firstly, how often do you garment and can cause serious damage to
recommend that suits be cleaned wear it? “Hot urban environments would the fibres and colours, if not treated quickly.
only once per year, as a preventative require you to clean more often than a Many of these products contain alcohol,
measure against what they perceive cooler suburban or rural environment,” he which, over time and with a little heat, will
as the inevitable confrontations with explains. “In an urban environment you destroy dyes and finishes. Shirts are very
customers over damaged merchandise. tend to wear lighter colors that show soiling susceptible to this damage and should be
easier; also, these garments are exposed cleaned every one to two wears.”
“The key problem with how garment to more perspiration, vehicle exhaust and
manufacturers view the dry-cleaning general soiling. This would require cleaning HOW SHOULD I WASH IT?
industry is the previous lack of universal every three to four wears. In suburban and If there is one point that White makes
standards of excellence,” explains WBC rural environments, you can get by with abundantly clear, it would be: DO NOT
Technical Director Christopher White. every four to five wears, as the colors are TRY THIS AT HOME. “Up until now,
“In reality, proper cleaning will actually darker and there’s less overall soiling.” we’ve been talking about general garment
extend the life of your wardrobe and Secondly, how long do you wear the maintenance. But what happens when you

70 I Bespoken
‘The suit that you wear to the
office every day should be cleaned
every two or three wears’

TEN TIPS FOR STAIN REMOVAL air dry any garment that’s had dry cleaning DECRYPTING
solvents used on it. These solvents can be a WASHING SYMBOLS
1. Act quickly fire hazard in a washing machine. Remember
Fresh stains make stain removal an easier task. never to put dry cleaning solvents directly into What it indicates:
Give yourself the upper hand by treating stains the washing machine. Wash By Hand.
as promptly after they happen as possible. If What it really means:
your stains are on a non-washable fabric, take 6. Be wary of even colour removal with bleach Wash at medium temperature bet-
them to the dry cleaners as soon as possible. Be Bleaching only one stained spot on a garment ween 30 and 40°C) with a small dose
sure to point out the stain to the dry cleaner and may result in uneven colour removal for of washing product – do not rub clot-
describe the nature of the stain. This makes the the entire garment. Consider using the hes too vigorously and dry with care.
likelihood of stain removal success greater. appropriate bleach listed in the garment tag
to bleach the entire garment. What it indicates:
2. Follow the directions Do not bleach.
Follow the directions on any stain removal 7. Don’t mix stain-removal products What it really means:
products you use. Don’t forget to follow washing Mixing different chemicals can cause toxic Ensure that your washing product
directions on the stained clothes. Getting the odours and mixed results on your clothing. contains no whitening agent
stain out, won’t make much difference if you (such as sodium hypochlorite).
ruin the clothing in the process. 8. Wash stain treated items
Remember to thoroughly wash items that What it indicates:
3. Test in a hidden area have been treated with stain removal Do not iron.
Don’t forget to test any stain removal methods products to remove product residue and What it really means:
on a hidden seam or other inconspicuous spot. also the stain residue. Use a steam iron to remove creases,
You want to check for colorfastness before or take garment to a dry cleaner’s.
applying a treatment to a large or noticeable area 9. Be patient
of the clothing. Do not use if the color changes. Stain removal can take time. Sometimes What it indicates:
repeat treatments may be required. Be sure Do not machine-dry.
4. Remove stains from the back to thoroughly check the garment before What it really means:
Place the stained garment with the stain upside drying to determine if a repeat treatment is Dry the garment on a washing-line
down on top of a clean white cloth. Apply stain necessary. Drying will cause a stain to set. or leave in a warm place,
treatment to the back of the stain. Our goal is then leave to dry.
to remove the stain from the clothing instead of 10. Some stains won’t leave
making it travel all the way through to the other For some stains, no stain removal idea or tip can What it indicates:
side. Make sure to move the stained clothing to get rid of them without damaging the clothing Dry-clean only.
a fresh spot as the stain begins to remove itself or its color. But take heart in the fact that the What it really means: Always take
from the clothing and onto the cloth. other 9 general stain removal tips will give you delicate fabrics to a dry cleaner’s or
a fighting chance against all the stains in your wash by hand (at your own risk).
5. Be careful with dry cleaning solvents laundry basket. Just a few simple guidelines can
Make sure to rinse thoroughly, and allow to take the guesswork out of stain removal. Jérôme Stéfanski, with help from Kristel Geets

get an actual stain on your clothes? Too many based or animal matter, such as milk, blood technical know-how to deal with high-
people use some old-wives tale remedy, such or perspiration; and oil-based, such as end fabrics and styles. Everything from
as milk or lemon juice, just to avoid taking grease, oil or petroleum jelly. All of these the cleaning to the finishing can make or
it to a professional. I can’t tell you how staining substances can have dire effects on break a good suit over time. Your suit is
disastrous that usually is. It’s like letting your apparel if not treated by an expert.” an investment, and we like to think of dry
five-year-old repair your Aston Martin.” cleaners as akin to service departments
White continues: “Fibres are broken in the automotive industry. And as with
“Again, dry cleaning is a practical science – down into three basic categories for the mechanics, you get what you pay for.”
using chemicals to remove other chemicals from purpose of dry cleaning and stain removal:
fabrics, without creating color loss or fabric cellulosic or vegetable, such as cotton and Michael D’Elicio
damage,” says White. “Therefore, in order to linen; protein or animal, such as wool or
properly treat a stain, the stain properties have silk; and synthetic or man-made, such as
to be accurately identified, as do the fibres or acetate and nylon. All three categories
fibre blends of the garment, and the dyes. of apparel fibers have strengths and
weaknesses when combined with staining This article was kindly provided by World’s Best Cleaners –
STAIN CATEGORIES matter.It is vitally important to take an independent accreditation organization that objec-
“Stains are broken down into three basic your fine garments to what we refer to as tively certifies the top garment-care specialists around
categories: tannin-based or plant matter, Couture Care Specialists – professional dry the world. A list of Certified Couture Care Specialists can
such as wine, juice or ketchup; protein- cleaners with years of experience and the be found at the WBC site: www.worldsbestcleaners.com

Bespoken I 71
SCABAL’s network

Suits You, Madam!


When Julia Kristensen arrived in Bucharest 13 years ago, little did she know
that she would become the first of Romania’s ‘Scabalists’.
This unique client explains her entrepreneurial adventure.

The impressive Casa Frumoasa Store that was originally the Consulate of Luxembourg in Bucharest

72 I Bespoken
‘during the past four years,
we have grown by 30 per cent’

Typically, with her entrepreneurial houses in the same way”. The two women
vision and business flair, she acted discovered their shared passion during
quickly after the events of 1989 and the renovation period, and have since
long before Romania became an EU teamed up as business partners.
member. Concerning the future of the
young democracy on the Danube, she is BESPOKE SERVICE
philosophical: “It’s a poor country. There Julia takes personal care of her some
is still a canyon separating the well-to-do 300 made-to-measure and bespoke
who are my clients, such as politicians, customers. Scabal Technical Manager
businessmen, lawyers, engineers, from the Ready-To-Wear and Special Products

B
Julia Kristensen
majority who aren’t making money yet. You Mario Arcuri, who visits Bucharest twice
do not accept democracy - people have to per year, remembers an anecdote from
orn to Russian educate themselves to it.” the start-up period: “A very important
parents in Riga, personality visited her shop, accompanied
Latvia (can you “The first two, three years with Scabal were by bodyguards. I explained the collection
imagine how my learning curve.At the beginning I spent a and the different qualities on offer: this suit
many languages lot of time at Scabal headquarters in Brussels. for work, this one for the theatre, that for the
she speaks?) Julia And once I learned the tricks of the luxury weekend, this light coat for town, that one for
Kristensen has kept made-to-measure, my figures doubled for the the country... In the end, there were around
the family name of next six years. During the past four years, we 40 garments lying on the table, and I was
her former Danish husband. have grown by 30 per cent.” waiting for him to choose. He looked at me
and said: ‘Da”, which means ‘yes’. I looked at
At Scabal’s Brussels headquarters, Kristensen’s most recent project was Julia, who was standing behind him. She sees
they already know that Stil European selling her villa at the Calea Victoriei that I’m amazed, and winks at me, as if to
Impex is not only one of the most that she acquired two years ago to house say, ‘that’s how things go here’. There were
productive retailer in Europe, but also her Scabal business and purchasing, for at least five or six suits…
that Kristensen can’t stop herself from 5€ million, an impeccable 19th century
launching a new project every two years. villa in the business sector on Lascar Kristensen tells another story,
As Scabal Finished Products Director Catargiu Boulevard. With Italian concerning one of her best clients who is
and Eastern Europe Sales Manager architect and interior decorator Elena also one of the richest men in Romania.
Matthias Rollmann explains: “She is Busato, Kristensen invested another “I say to him: ‘How can I make you happy?
phenomenal. She always develops new ideas 1€ million and opened her outlet in It’s so hard to make you want anything: you
and with such a drive and force!” September 2008 - not merely to house don’t want to buy.’ So, when I go to the shows
the full Scabal collection on the first two in Milan, which I do several times a year, and
And she is not just a strong and floors, but also other luxury brands and I hear about handmade crocodile shoes, of
successful businesswoman - thanks to her products in a bid to boost turnover even which only 800 pairs exist worldwide, I bring
inspired vision, she has built an entire more. In addition, the recent opening some back for him. Those, he liked.”
retail empire single-handedly. What of an on-site champagne and caviar bar
makes her unique, not only in her own provides a discreet, elegant environment And she is also passionate about
country but also in Europe as a whole, for business meetings, and will soon be educating her rather traditional clients.
is that she combines generosity with an complemented by an upstairs design When their order is delivered, she
understanding of beauty and quality plus studio, offering complete consultancy also makes some suggestions as to how
unstoppable commercial drive. for luxury living. Elena Busato takes best accessorize the garment. “It is the
charge of the design projects, while work of a personal shopper, but I do it for
DEMOCRATIC EDUCATION Kristensen does what she like so much free. The customers become more open to
When she came to Romania, Julia and does so well: handle the commercial suggestions and have lately been opting for
Kristensen found out about Scabal side. She believes a time will come “... fancier choices.”
through a friend and she quickly when people in Romania not only dress
saw the future of the luxury sector. nicely and expensively but will also redo their Joséphine Overeem

Bespoken I 73
PM BE

AUTUMN-WINTER 2009-2010 TRENDS

Hundreds of luxurious
cloths, designs and shades
Scabal seasonal collections are not like New Year parties – there is no ‘out with
the old and in with the new’. Rather, they are evolving collections
of hundreds of luxurious cloths, designs and shades.

© Fotostudio Uyttebroeck

‘Triple A’: An old Scabal favourite that makes a return


in a new collection

N
ew lines are added this are not generally available for jackets. at least Scabal has noticed a trend. With
– and others are This is pure luxury.” the slimmer suit styling today, men want
withdrawn – in to return to a more fitted coat… and
response to style “A new top-quality Super 150’s wool suiting throw out those anoraks! We also have a
trends, changes in is Toison d’Or. We have created some semi- line of pure cotton trouser fabrics which
market behaviour, fancy designs, distinctive when you are close we have named Ascona. This is heavy
or technical up but discreet from a distance. This is a fine winter cotton casual wear. The range with
innovations in quality with subtle design work.” 33 numbers is mostly plains and we have
fabrics and production processes. included a couple of fancy colours like
But the objective is always the same orange and purple. It’s very relaxed and
– to offer a collection that provides ‘Scabal seasonal comfortable, the sort of garment that men
discerning dressers around the world wear with a sweater.”
with the individual choice and quality
collections are
they demand. not like New Year “Triple A is an old Scabal favourite that
parties – there we are bringing back with a new collection.
Michael Day, Scabal’s fabric designer, is no 'out with It is a semi-classic Super 120’s wool. In the
picks out six new lines and explains old days, before “Supers”, wool was graded
how they will enrich the Scabal
the old and in A, AA or AAA. This is best quality wool,
Autumn-Winter 2009/2010 Collection: with the new'. so we call it Triple A.”
“Mandarin is a soft, luxurious wool and Rather, they are
silk suiting cloth for winter. This light evolving, classic “These are the principal new lines in our
blend is a big summer favourite but strong upcoming Autumn-Winter collection. Like
demand – and a general trend to warmer
collections...’ the existing products they accompany,
winters – has led us to create a winter line.” I think they all stay very close to well-
“Scabal is going back to wool overcoats established Scabal attributes: quality,
“Essentials is a new collection bringing next winter with a new range of Super craftsmanship and attention to detail.”
beautiful, soft Super 150’s wool to jacketing. 100’s and cashmere cloth. There is a
Apart from cashmere, wools as fine as trend back to made-to-measure coats; Nigel Bishop

74 I Bespoken
PM BESPOKEN 225x300:bat 27/11/08 14:25 Page1

“Haute couture or chocolate? I enjoy nothing more than pushing the


boundaries of chocolate and pastry-making. By suggesting the mingling
of two very different worlds, I’ve come up with the Hat Box.”
Pierre Marcolini

BRUXELLES ANTWERPEN
Avenue Louise, 75M Huidevettersstraat, 38-40
1050 Bruxelles 2000 Antwerpen
Rue des Minimes, 1
1000 Bruxelles LIEGE
Avenue de Hinnisdael, 14 En Bergerue, 18, 4000 Liège
1150 Bruxelles
Chaussée de Waterloo, 1302 KNOKKE
1180 Bruxelles Elizabethlaan, 5, 8300 Knokke

www.marcolini.com
PAST-PRESENT-FUTURE

Inspiration Dali
Bespoken is proud to preview an important project
led by Scabal and The London College of Fashion, based on Salvador Dali's paintings.

© S. Papandropoulo
T
The Dali project, supervised by teacher Alan Cannon-Jones

hroughout the 20 th them from the rest of the traditional design, the company has created a
century there have collection.  partnership with the London College
been many iconic of Fashion.
figures and when
people look at the art We are now This relationship has been created
world in particular, to offer students and staff of the
the Spanish painter
into the 21st college the opportunity to work on
Salvador Dali stands century and the interpreting Dali’s paintings through
out as someone who merits special relationship a variety of media. Both Scabal
recognition. His unique and often between Scabal and the London College of Fashion
bizarre creations reveal an imagination wanted to develop this project
and style that made a profound
and Dali has also utilizing three other disciplines to
impression on the world and continues moved forward complement the traditional bespoke
to influence many today. tailoring department. Consequently,
the project has included the
DALI AND SCABAL Scabal deliberately set to work on additional subjects of menswear,
In 1971, Scabal commissioned the these fabrics in a more extravagant theatre and digital print. 
artist to draw pictures on how he manner than usual, but staying
saw man and fashion in the 21st within the remit of adapting and On behalf of Scabal, Sales Director
century. The results, based on his own interpreting Dali’s creations. And Neil Hart said: “Scabal is delighted to
individual approach, which for many while the result was a unique and be working in partnership with London
was characterized by his beautifully highly successful range of fabrics, College of Fashion on the Dali project and
tailored suits creating an almost dandy- they remained in keeping with the looks forward to seeing the finished work
esque persona, became the inspiration quality and style associated with utilizing our fabrics across a range of new
behind a collection of fabrics launched Scabal cloth.  and diverse disciplines.”
by Scabal in 2004.
Some 20 students and staff across the
These fabrics were a direct A NEW INTERPRETATION four disciplines have the opportunity
interpretation of each of the paintings We are now into the 21st century – to utilize fabrics from Scabal’s
and, while initially to the un-noticing and the relationship between collection in their work. With this,
eye they appear classic, upon closer Scabal and Dali has also moved they are free to design and develop
inspection the detail, colour, patterns forward. In continuing to search concepts that remain within the core
and irregular striping distinguish for new inspiration for future cloth values, taking the Dali paintings as

76 I Bespoken
inspiration. This creative freedom has our best students to work on this project In addition, further potential exists
been a key aspect and driving force which involves them creating garments for displaying these works in a
for the London College of Fashion based on the original twelve pictures Dali number of international markets,
to become involved. Dali himself drew. We have asked our students to be allowing visitors themselves to see
revelled in unrestrained expression as creative and imaginative as Dali was, the inspiration generated by Salvador
in all sectors of his life and it is this so without any limits! ”  Dali’s association with Scabal and
which all students and staff involved the work of the London College
have been actively encouraged to take The students’ work across all of Fashion.
on in their work.  disciplines is currently targeted
for completion by early 2009, with And don’t miss the next issue of
Alan Cannon-Jones, Director discussions under way to display Bespoken, in which the twelve works
of Programmes, Tailoring and the finished pieces at the London will be exclusively published…
Technology at London College of College of Fashion exhibition hall
Fashion explains: “We have invited at Oxford Circus later in the year. Stephen Papandropoulos

FRESH OPENINGS
SCABAL IN MUMBAI SCABAL IN KARSTADT’S SCABAL IN JAKARTA
PREMIUM GROUP

Scabal has brought its ready-to-wear Following the success enjoyed by the store Scabal is pleased to announce the
and accessory line to India. Available in the Karstadt flagship in Berlin’s KaDeWe recent opening of its Jakarta store, in
exclusively at Kings in Bombay, a separate that opened nearly three years ago, Scabal association with Indonesian partners,
Scabal section, based on the Savile Row has now moved into Munich. Oberpollinger, Alta Moda. The outlet is located in one
flagship store, has been created to display the Premium Group’s store, has been lavishly of the most prestigious malls in Jakarta,
Scabal fabrics. Scabal has been in India for renovated and boasts most important labels One Pacific Place, and its design is also
many years, and more ‘shop in shops’ are in men’s and women’s fashion. Scabal, with based on Scabal's Savile Row store.
planned for key cities. its unique made-to-measure area, following
its Savile Row flagship design, combines
contemporary style and tailored tradition. Alta Moda Boutique
KINGS One Pacific Place Mall Unit 1-52
Meghdoot 197, Linking road Oberpollinger Jl. Jend. Sudirman Kav 52-53, (SCBD) Kebayoran
Bandra, Bombay Neuhauser Strasse, 18 Baru
India 80331 München Jakarta Selatan
T. +91 26422882-5886 Germany Indonesia
T. +49(0)89 290 240 40 T. +62 21 51402787-89
© Scabal

Bespoken I 77
FASHION ONLINE

Women’s views
on men’s fashion
Who better than a woman to offer advice on male clothing? Two specialist female
bloggers let you in on their secrets…
© Courtesy of Men’s Vogue

Amanda Brooks

IN HER EYES In your opinion, what does it mean What is a men’s fashion trend of
to have an ‘eye for fashion’? the past you’ d like to see make a
Amanda Brooks is a fashion consultant For me, saying that a man has an eye for comeback and why?
and oft-photographed woman-about- fashion is not the way I would give him I blogged this week about the Ascot tie.
Manhattan who has written about a compliment – it sounds trendy which is I’ d certainly be impressed to run into a
style for Vogue and the New York Times not the way I want to think of a man. guy that could make one work.
Magazine. Her blog, ‘In Her Eyes’ can A well-dressed man is not afraid to try
be read at www.mensvogue.com, new things but is very disciplined in
and shares a woman’s perspective on knowing what he can and can't carry off. ‘A well-dressed
what men are wearing and what she’d
like them to wear. Do you need to spend a lot of money
man is not
“It’s meant to be an inspiration, not to be stylish or sophisticated? afraid to try
dictation”, she says. Absolutely not. In fact, money can new things
sometimes be a great inhibitor to style. but is very
Why is a woman’s Some men and women think if you
Bespoken:
perspective interesting? spend a lot of money on clothes you will
disciplined
Amanda Brooks : It’s fun to talk automatically look good, but that’s not the in knowing
about what I find attractive. And I case. When wearing expensive clothes, you what he can
think (hope!) that men like to hear have to work extra hard to give personality and can’t
what a woman finds attractive. It’s a to your look – a new custom suit with well-
fresh perspective and hopefully more worn wingtips, or that cashmere sweater
carry off’
constructive than what their men friends with lived-in jeans.
might say to them about their clothes.

78 I Bespoken
What big for men’s fashion in 2009?
Double-breasted, plaid, rolled up jeans,
mis-matched suits.

For you, what's a serious male


fashion 'no-no'?
Anything that makes you look like
you're trying too hard.

What are some of your favorite


men’s fashion websites/blogs that
you frequent?
To be honest, I don’t look at men’s blogs.

What do you see as ‘essential’ to a


man’s wardrobe?
That really depends on their lifestyle. Jennine Tamm
My husband is an artist and his
essentials are cargo pants, New Balance
sneakers, hundreds of T-shirts and three
nice suits. Other men might benefit from THE POSTE OFFICE What’s big for men’s fashion in 2009?
a few custom-tailored shirts. The most The whole dapper/vintage look has been
important thing about essentials is that Jennine Tamm, 33, describes her own cultivated for years now and I’m seeing
the fit is perfect and that you look ‘at style as “playful and sometimes over the interesting twists on this look.
home’ in them. top”. From her computer in Germany,
Tamm channels her own passion Do you need to spend a lot of money
Who are some designers you like for for fashion into several smartblogs, to be stylish or sophisticated?
trendy or classic menswear? including one dedicated to menswear, No, but you need to be patient to find good
I love Dolce and Gabbana suits. The infusing her vibrant personality into deals. Men’s clothing tends to be more expensive
cut is beautiful and they have great radical opinion-forming. than women’s but it doesn’t move as quickly so
traditional tweeds and pinstripes. For investing in sophistication makes sense.
less traditional clothes, I like Richard Bespoken : Why do you blog about
James in London. The colors and the men’s fashion? Who are some of your favorite men’s
patterns are very bold and unlike Jennine Tamm : Men are visual creatures designers at the moment?
anything I’ve seen. Also, I have to say and there weren’t a lot of blogs for men, so I I like Opening Ceremony, Band of Outsiders
I'm a sucker for Tom Ford – Brad Pitt started one. and Raf by Raf Simons. They are classic but
looked damn good on the red carpet last still young and fresh.
year.* What does it mean to have an ‘eye’
for fashion? What are some of your favourite
It’s about tapping into the intuitive part of menswear blogs?
www.mensvogue.com/clothing/blogs/in_her_eyes dressing. There are rules in fashion, but The Sunday Best, Style Salvage, Scummy
they’re like suggestions. The intuitive part Man and Mensrag.
* Richard James and Tom Ford are Scabal clients is the fun part-the personality-like the Duke
of Winsdor mixing four patterns together or www.leposte.blogspot.com
Fred Astaire using a tie as a belt. Kimberley Lovato

Bespoken I 79
SCABAL WORLDWIDE
CYPRUS MEXICO
viSit SCABAL’S fLAGSHip Store At
+90-392-228 33 40 +52-55-5515 8433
12 SAviLe roW, W1S 3pq London,
pHone +44-20-77 34 89 63,
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HAZeL@SCABALUK.Com
POLAND Scabal Made-to-Measure
or tHe SCABAL CornerS in +48-61-436 79 69 +52-55-5660 75 40
Le printempS de L’Homme, 4tH fLoor, info@scabal.pl cincu@prodigy.net.mx or
61 rUe CAUmArtin, 75009 pAriS, alejandrocarreon@prodigy.net.mx
pHone +33-1-42 82 55 33 or +33-1-42 82 40 32, PORTUGAL
SCABALfrAnCe@WAnAdoo.fr +351-275-954 827 U.S.A.
jvi@jvi.pt +1-212-4756 666
And KAdeWe, 1St fLoor,
fabricczar@aol.com
tAUentZienStrASSe 21-24, 10789 BerLin,
pHone +49-30-219 18 530, ROMANIA
VENEZUELA
ANDREAS.OLTMANNS@SCABAL.de +40-21-311 56 46
+58-212-264 6914
showroom@casafrumoasa.ro
lASTLY, FIND OUR BRAND-NEW STORE AT inversionesmarumi@gmail.com
OBERPOLLINGER, NEUHAUSER STRASSE 18, 80331 RUSSIA
Munich, GERMANY
ASIA & OCEANIA
+7-495-660-7163 AZERBAIJAN
phone +49-89-290 240 40,
ag@gatex.ru +99-412-382.214
dagmar.dueh@scabal.de
+7-495-730-2010 salamzade@rambler.ru
for otHer LoCAtionS, viSit tHe Store sol@solstudio.RU
LoCAtor on WWW.SCABAL.Com AUSTRALIA
SPAIN +61-3-5989 8601
+34-93-726 00 99 A.WAIN@BIGPOND.NET.au
CLOTH GARMENTS & ACCESSORIES brautex@brautex.com
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SWITZERLAND MALAYSIA – MYANMAR – PHILIPPINES –
EUROPE +41-61-261 25 79/80
SCABAL BENELUX – HEADQUARTERS & SINGAPORE – THAILAND – VIETNAM
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INTERNATIONAL DISTRIBUTION CENTRE +65-6336 0070
+49-171-651 08 29
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GERMANY scabaljapan @scabal.co.jp
+49-681-9871 0 BRESIL
info@scabal.de +55-11-362 041 044 KUWAIT
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info@westtuch.de bennekhi@hotmail.com
CANADA
GREAT BRITAIN +1-514-335 35 11 NEW ZEALAND
+44-207-734 1867 info@hersh-rsd.com +64-9-828 06 74
HAZEL.EDMONDS@SCABAL.COM velvetfabrics@clear.net.nz
+44-777-591 64 53 CHILI
+56-2-638 14 72 SAUDI ARABIA – UNITED ARAB EMIRATES
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c.rubio@holmes.cl +44-140-375 27 16
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+30-210-67 27 431 COLOMBIA
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Scabal Autumn – Winter 2009-2010

NEXT ISSUE: AUGUST 09

THE OFFICE
IN THE NEXT BESPOKEN, SCABAL TELLS A STORY OF THE MODERN
BUSINESSMAN, IN A SURREAL ENVIRONMENT, AND GIVES YOU THE
CHANCE TO DISCOVER THE AUTUMN-WINTER 2009-10 COLLECTION,
WHICH WILL BE WORN BY DISCERNING GENTLEMEN AROUND
THE WORLD.
RESERVE YOUR COPY, WHICH WILL BE DELIVERED TO YOUR HOME,
ON WWW.BESPOKEN.COM

80 I Bespoken
this fourth edition of bespoken
is presented to you
with the compliments of:

10-09-2008 13:02:40
Request your next copy of Scabal’s magazine
Bespoken on Bespoken.com

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