Gujarat Culture

Weekend Getaways
1. Champaner – Pavagadh
Hub(s): Vadodara
General
Many great cities of antiquity around the world were the centre of their civilization for
centuries, only to be lost to the ages, and then rediscovered centuries or millennia later, reduced
to rubble and ruins, with only the largest structures still standing, and the rest mere
shadows. Other cities continued to grow and change, leading to eclectic mixes of thousand-
year-old forts and temples, medieval streets and markets, government buildings put up by
colonial powers, and modern high-rises, offices and strip malls cluttering everywhere in
between. But there are not many places in the world that went from being a small place of
moderate importance to being the capital of the kingdom to being almost entirely deserted and
nearly lost to the wilderness within a century, and in such recent history (a mere 500 years
ago.)

Champaner is just such a place. Here you can find an old palace, fort, several mosques, but also
walk the ancient streets just as its inhabitants did five centuries ago. Champaner was an out-
of-the-way pilgrimage site for hundreds of years, became the capital of Gujarat, and was then
abandoned to be overtaken by the jungle. The city rose and fell almost as fast as the modern
stock market, but left behind far more aesthetic remains. The city is remarkably well-
preserved, with Hindu and Jain temples a thousand years old, mosques from the time of the
Gujarat Sultanate, and the whole workings of a well-planned capital city still in evidence, from
granaries and fortifications to stepwells and cemeteries. Champaner became a UNESCO
World Heritage Site in 2004.

Background

Champaner was founded in the 8th century by King Vanraj Chavda of the Chavda Kingdom.
Some attribute the name “Champaner” to his desire to name the city after his friend and minister
Champa, while others say it comes from the igneous rocks of Pavagadh, whose light yellow
color tinged with red gives the appearance of the champaka, or “flame of the forest” flower.
The city and surrounding state of Pavagadh became an important buffer area between Mandu
and Gujarat, as well as a key station on trade routes leading from Gujarat to both North and
South India. Pavagadh and the city of Champaner were captured by the Chauhan Rajputs
around 1300 AD, and they ruled the area for almost the next two hundred years.

Though many of the Gujarat Sultans had attempted to capture Pavagadh, for the strategic
reasons mentioned above, it was Mahmud Begda who succeded in 1484, after laying siege to
the city for twenty months. He renamed the city Muhammadabad, spent 23 years renovating
and enhancing the city, and moved his capital there from Ahmedabad. Champaner’s time as
capital was not long, however, as the Mughal Emperor Humayun conquered the city in 1535.

Because the Mughals had captured both Gujarat and Malwa, the city no longer had any strategic
value as a buffer, and the capital was moved back to Ahmedabad. For the next four centuries
or so, the city was in decline. While at one point it was occupied by the Marathas, it was never
given any importance, and some records from this period indicate that while some inhabitants
remained, much of the city was overrun by the surrounding forest as the decades and centuries
passed. Only scant references exist from a few Islamic (and one Portuguese) writers of the
period. Hindu pilgrims also still continued to climb Pavagadh hill to pray at the temple to
Mahakali, but took little notice of the ruined city at the foot of the hills.

When the British took control of the area around the beginning of the 19th century, the city
was almost completely overrun by the wilderness, and most reports point to a population of
only 500. British surveyors took notice of the large monuments lost in the jungle and described
of their findings, and later on, limited field studies were undertaken by the German
archaeologist Herman Goetz. In 1969 a 7-year study was done by the Maharaja Sayajirao
University of Baroda, leading to many insights about the growth and identity of the city.

As it was first a strategic center, it has heavy fortifications especially near the upper portions,
and grew downward from there through successive fortifications ending down on the plains.
The fort walls reach up to ten meters high, with positions at regular intervals for weapons to be
fired from atop them, as well as for troops to move below. Near the Atak Gate are several
catapult stands; only the stone frames remain, but stone balls found around the site indicate
their use as catapults. The principal township at the base of the hill included the Hissar-i-Khas
(the royal palace) as well as the Jami Masjid. Arranged in a circle with the Jami Masjid at the
center, major arteries ran from there to the nine major gates of the city, with mosques built near
many of the gates, elevated to be widely visible. Large reservoirs to store monsoon rains for
the rest of the year were built using earthen berms to contain the natural flow of streams coming
downhill. The series of created lakes empty into each other as they successively overflow,
 eventually ending in the largest lake, the Vada Talav, on the plain below the city. In addition,
multiple stepwells helped augment the water supply, as did systems of collecting rooftop
rainwater into small tanks for individual buildings. The Jami Masjid had a huge open-air tank
for its rainwater collection, called the Hauz-i-Vazu. The extent of urban planning that went into
developing the city under Mahmud Begda far outweighs the mere two decades that it served as
capital.

2. Dakor:

Hub(s) : Vadodara
General

The city of Dakor is a mythological cauldron, and being there is like taking a drink from fabled
waters.

Once a sleepy village, it used to crackle with a large number of khakhra (Butea monosperma)
trees and was therefore often called a ‘Khakhariu gaam’. It is said that Rishi Dank had his
ashram here, so the temple and the village are named after him as Dankpur or Dakor, and the
Danknath Mahadev temple stands on the banks of Gomti Lake. As you approach from faraway
you see the swaying flag on the tall and beautiful shikhar of the Ranchhodrai Dakor Temple
inviting pilgrims. Chaitanya Mahaprabhu and Mirabai have both come here to pay homage to
its idol.

On purnima (full moon) every month this temple town awakens to thousands of visitors in
colorful festivity. Inspired by the revered legend of Bodana, many devotees even today come
on foot from great distances. But remember, your Dakor adventure is complete only after
tasting its lip-smacking gotas accompanied by tea or dahi (yogurt).

Background

The legend of Bodana: 'Vijayanand Bodana', a Rajput of Dakor, walked every six months
to Dwarka to worship Lord Krishna. He did this tirelessly and unfailingly until he was 72 years
old, at which point the long journey became increasingly difficult for him. Feeling compassion
for this faithful devotee, the idol of Krishna directed him in a dream to bring a bullock-cart on
his ensuing visit to Dwarka. At midnight, the Krishna idol broke open all the doors of the
Dwarka temple, awoke Bodana and told him to take him to Dakor. Near Bileshwar Mahadev
on Dakor-Nadiad road, they rested for some time. Sri Krishna touched the branch of a Neem
tree, and to this day that tree is said to have one sweet branch, though the rest of the branches
are bitter.

In Dwarka, the angry Gugli brahmins, finding the idol of Krishna missing, chased Bodana and
accidentally killed him. The Guglis were not ready to return to Dwarka without the Krishna
idol. At last, Krishna asked Gangabai, the poor widow of Bodana, to give gold equivalent to
the weight of the idol and ask the Guglis to return to Dwarka. The Guglis agreed, but all she
possessed was a gold nose-ring. Miraculously, when weighed, the idol became as light as the
nose-ring. The Guglis were disappointed but Krishna mercifully directed that they would find
after six months an exact replica of the idol in Sevaradhan Vav at Dwarka. The impatient Guglis
looked for the idol sometime earlier than they were told and as a result, found an idol which,
though similar to the original one, was smaller. The original idol remained in Dakor. Even
 today on every purnima (full moon), pilgrims walk here from far away places to commemorate
Bodana's devotion.

Hidimba Van and Rishi Dank

In the past, Kheda district was known as ‘Hidimba Van’. This is where the Mahabharata hero
Bhimsen killed a demon and married Hidimba.

Rishi Dank had his hermitage in the fertile lands of Dakor, then called Dankpur after the name
of the rishi. It is said that Shiva, pleased by the rishi's devotion, granted his wish and stayed in
his hermitage in the form of a linga. At present the linga stands as Danknath Mahadev temple
on the bank of the holy pond Gomti.

3. Dholavira
Hub(s) : Kutch
General
At the height of our civilization, our technological development, our social and material
complexity, all signs point to progress, we often think. And yet, all is not as it seems and once
in a while it occurs to us to look into the past to discover our future.
Dholavira is the larger of the two most remarkable excavations of the Indus Valley Civilization
or Harappan culture, dating back to 4500 years ago. While the other site, Lothal, is more
exhaustively educated and easier to reach, a visit to Lothal only complements, rather than
replaces, a visit to Dholavira. What this site offers you, in the intense environment that comes
with being surrounded by the Great Rann of Kutch, is a unique insight into the pioneering
Harappan mind, with one of the world’s earliest and best planned water conservation systems
and what might be the world’s first signboards, written in ancient Indus script.
The excavation also tells the story of the 7 stages of the civilization, from development to
maturity to decay, the last of which hints at a strange piece of history, with more questions than
answers. After the peak of the civilization Dholavira was temporarily abandoned, after which
it seems that the settlers returned with a markedly de-urbanized culture. There are hints that
they willingly chose to simplify their lives, rather than try to ride the collapse of their once
glorified civilization. Here, on the ruins, you will have a chance to contemplate what progress
and civilization mean and what, if anything, is truly permanent.
Background: Dholavira, known locally as Kotada (which means large fort), sprawls over
100 hectares of semi-arid land at the north-west corner of the island of Khadir, one of the
islands in the Great Rann of Kutch that remain above the flood-plains in months when the rest
of the desert is submerged by the monsoon. Dholavira has two seasonal nallahs, or streams:
Mansar in the north, and Manhar in the south. The journey to Dholavira itself is beautiful,
taking you through the saline desert plains of the Great Rann, where you can spot wildlife such
as chinkara gazelle, nilgai (blue bull, the largest antelope in Asia), flamingos and other bird
life.
The site was unearthed by the Archeological Survey of India (ASI) in 1967, but has been
systematically excavated only since 1990. Artifacts include terracotta pottery, beads, gold and
copper ornaments, seals, fish hooks, animal figurines, tools, urns, and some imported vessels
that indicate trade links with lands as far away as Mesopotamia. Also found were 10 large stone
inscriptions, carved in Indus Valley script, perhaps the world’s earliest signboard. These are
among the most important discoveries about the Indus Valley Civilization, but remain
tantalizingly undeciphered.
 The remains show an imposing citadel in the center, with a middle and lower town, each
fortified separately, built with pleasingly smoothed structures of sun-dried brick and stone
masonry, and with remarkable town planning. Well laid out lanes lead outward systematically
from the citadel, with a well-constructed underground drainage system for sanitation. There is
a large stadium with a complex structure and seating arrangement.
Finally, Dholavira has one of the world’s earliest water conservation systems ever excavated.
Satellite pictures show a reservoir underground, an expertly constructed rainwater harvesting
system extending from the walls of the city, without which the settlement would not have
thrived in the sparse rainfall of the desert.
Dholavira is one of the two largest Harappan sites in India, and 5th largest in the subcontinent.
Like Lothal, it passed through all the stages of the Harappan culture from circa 2900 BC to
1500 BC, while most others saw only the early or late stages.
The excavation found a decline of the civilization in the 5th of 7th stages, after which were
signs of a temporary desertion of the site. Settlers returned later in the late Harappan stage,
with a change in their pottery, influenced by cultures found at sites in Sindh, South Rajasthan
and other parts of Gujurat, but they did not bring the return of the civilization. Their houses,
for example, were built in an entirely new form that was circular (bhungas), and the material
signs were strikingly deurbanized and simplified. Perhaps the last stage of the powerful
civilization had become aware of its future, and was preparing itself for a gradual end.

4. Dwarka

Hub(s) : Jamnagar
General

Depending on who you are, what you are about to read can seem anything from myth to legend
to reality. Turn back the cosmic clock, let your imagination plummet suddenly into 1500 BC,
and you may begin to recreate in your mind’s eye, a city of gold – Dwarka, the mesmerizing
kingdom of Lord Krishna. Ranchhodrai, as Lord Krishna is affectionately called in Gujarat,
came to Dwarka from Mathura to build his new kingdom where he would later spend a
significant part of his life. Located at the western tip of the Saurashtra peninsula, this town
enjoys remarkable importance in Hindu lore. It is the only place considered both one of the
four principal holy places (char dham), as well as one of the seven ancient towns (sapta puris)
to visit. For this reason, millions of pilgrims and historical scholars have come here over the
centuries.

It is believed that immediately after the death of Lord Krishna and the consequent demise of
the Yadav dynasty a massive flood swallowed all of Dwarka and submerged the city of gold to
the bottom of the ocean. However, current excavations give us reason to think this myth has a
historical basis, as most myths do.

Today, the present Dwarka sits at the opening of the Gomti river on the Arabian Sea and is
renowned for the Dwarkadheesh temple, among other notable historical and religious sites. It
is believed that Mirabhai, Lord Krishna’s devoted follower, merged with his idol in this temple.
Every year during Janmashtami (the anniversary of Krishna's birth), thousands of devotees
from all over the world come here to partake in elaborate festivities.

Things to do
We recommend the five-hour guided tour bookable at either the Nagar Panchayat's office,
located near the vegetable market, the Tourist Bureau, located near the main bus stand, or the
Toran Guest House.

This five-hour local tour takes you to Nageshwar Jyotiling Temple, Gopi Tarav and Beyt
Dwarka. The tariff does not include the ferry charges to Beyt Dwarka. The first tour starts at
8am and the second tour begins around 2pm.

Background

Krishna's Dwarka: Worshiped as the 8th incarnation of the Hindu deity Vishnu, Krishna is
believed to have been born sometime between 1500 and 700 BC in Mathura, just south of Delhi
in the modern state of Uttar Pradesh. There Krishna killed the oppressive king Kansa, angering
his father-in-law Jarasandh. Jarasandh attacked Krishna's kingdom 17 times in a lengthy war
as he tried to avenge the death of his son-in-law. The people of Mathura, the Yadavs, suffered
heavy casualties. Krishna knew that his people would not be able to survive another war with
Jarasandh, as the ongoing conflict was not only taking lives but also impacting trade and
farming. So as to avert any further casualty, Krishna left the battle grounds and began to be
known as Ranchhodji (one who leaves the battle grounds).

Krishna, along with the Yadav dynasty, crossed Gomantak (Girnar Mountain), and arrived at
the coast of Saurashtra at a distance of 32 km from Somnath. According to some references,
he arrived near the present day Okha and established his kingdom on Beyt Dwarka. It is
believed that Samudradev, the lord of the sea, blessed Krishna with a land measuring twelve
yojanas (773 square km) and Vishwakarma, the celestial architect in Hinduism, granted
Krishna's wishes and built him his new kingdom. This new capital flourished with such wealth
and oppulence that it was called the City of Gold, and Krishna came to be known as
Dwarkadheesh (King of Dwarka). Krishna's life goal was to re-establish a kingdom based on
the principal of Sat Dharma or 'true religion'. Dwarka, also known as Dwaravati, comes from
the words dwara, meaning 'door,' and ka, meaning 'Brahma.' Thus the name refers to the place
as a door to union with Brahma, the indescribable ground of all reality, in other words a
gateway to spiritual liberation.

Dwarka was reportedly a thoroughly planned city, which had six well-organized sectors,
residential and commercial zones, wide roads, plazas, palaces and many public utilities. Public
meetings were held in a hall called sudharma sabha (meeting of true religion). In ancient times
its flourishing port was considered to be the gateway to the mainland. The city had 700,000
palaces made of gold, silver and other precious stones, as well as beautiful gardens and lakes.
The entire city was surrounded by water and connected with the mainland through well-
constructed bridges.

Death of Dwarkadhish: After returning from the historic Kurukshetra war between the
Pandavas and Kauravas, Krishna found that the Yadav dynasty had declined to a state of
deplorable behavior, quarrels and negligency. Slowly the dynasty receded into infighting, and
their own self-inflicted demise. Unable to end the bloodshed, Krishna departed to the forest,
where he was accidentally shot by an arrow at Bhalka Tirtha and finally left his body in
Dehotsargh, where he was cremated by Arjun.

Dwarka Submerged: The death of Krishna symbolized the beginning of the Kali-yuga, an age
of strife, discord and quarrel. After Krishna's departure a massive flood swallowed up the city
 of gold, and it is believed that the city was submerged by the ocean and rebuilt six times by
different civilizations. The modern day Dwarka is the 7th such city to be built in the area.

There are various theories suggesting the exact location of the original Dwarka. But there are
also some archaeological signs to support the belief that the ancient Dwarka lies buried under
the present Dwarka and extended up to Beyt Dwarka in the north, Okhamadhi in the south, and
Pindara in the east.

Myth or Reality?: Recent findings indicate that these stories of ancient Dwarka have a
historical basis. Thirty copper coins, a foundation of boulders, old structures including a
circular one and pottery samples dating back around 1500 BC were excavated.

The recent underwater study on the coastal water of Dwarka conducted by the ASI
(Archeological Survey of India) reveals the existence of a city dated to the 2nd millennium BC.
The search for the lost city was going on since 1930's. Explorations between 1983 and 1990
have revealed a township that was built in six sectors along the banks of a river. They have also
found a well-fortified township of Dwarka, that extended more than half a mile from the shore.
The foundation of boulders on which the city's walls were erected proves that the land was
reclaimed from the sea. The general layout of the city of Dwarka described in ancient texts
corresponds with that of the submerged city discovered by the Marine Archeology Unit (MAU)

In order to find a detailed report on the excavations we recommend you to go to the National
Institute of Oceanography website.

5. Junagadh
Hub(s) : Junagadh
General: Few places offer you the chance to probe the earth and the heavens, the human
and the wild, as Junagadh does. Towering over the city is Mt. Girnar, a holy site for Hindus
and Jains that is climbed by a 9999-step staircase along peaks studded by temples that reach
for the sky and look out across the plains. Walking up these stairs in pilgrimage is a unique
experience of striving towards the heavens. Back at the base of the mountain, however, deep
in the heart of the oldest quarter of the city, you can walk down into the depths of the earth in
a pair of ancient stepwells that were not built, but hewn out of solid rock. Spiraling down the
staircase of thousand-year-old Navghan Kuvo, plunging 170 feet into the heart of solid rock
to find life-giving water at the bottom, is an unparalleled contact with the elements that
sustain us.

In the city of Junagadh, you can reach out and touch the two and a half millennia of human
civilization, spanning dominant periods of Jainism, Hinduism, Buddhism, and Islam, all of
whom left deep imprints on the city. And then you can set off for the Gir National Park to
come face to face with the utter wildness of the last of Asiatic Lions, where human civilization
is still just incidental to the natural rhythms that have continued for centuries.

Background: The city of Junagadh, along with Mt. Girnar that looks down upon it, appear
in stories and hearsay from long ago, beginning with associations with Krishna during his life
in Saurashtra. Reportedly, the main center of the city, the fort known as Uparkot, was built by
Chandragupta of the Mauryan empire around 320 BC, and archaeological evidence confirms
this, showing that Uparkot has been inhabited continuously since the 3rd century BC. Hence
the name Junagadh, which means “ancient fort.” Under the Mauryans, Junagadh was a
regional capital, and Emperor Ashoka had stone edicts placed there, still visible today.
 Junagadh remained important as a regional capital until the 5th century. Then under the Rajputs
and Solankis it was less important, as power centers shifted to near Bhavnagar (until the 10th
century), later to Patan (until the 15th century), where it stayed when the whole of Gujarat
became a province of the Delhi Sultanate, and then to Ahmedabad when Gujarat again became
an independent Sultanate. The Mughals took over in the early 16th century, and continued to
rule from Ahmedabad, so it was not until the mid 18th century as Mughal rule was in decline
that Junagadh once again became an independent princely state, established by an Afghan
named Sher Khan Babi, with its capital here.

By the time of Independence from British colonial rule, all the princely states (which numbered
565, and around a hundred were in Saurashtra alone) were given the choice of acceding to India
or to Pakistan, with Mountbatten’s caveat that effectively, states could only accede to a nation
with whom they shared borders. This determined the choice for nearly all of them. In Junagadh,
however, the Nawab opted to accede to Pakistan, saying Junagadh neighbored Pakistan through
the sea. India objected, given the 80% Hindu majority, but Pakistan countered that if India
could claim Kashmir, with a Muslim majority but a leader who chose India, why should
Junagadh not be in Pakistan. After several backs and forths involving uprisings by some parts
of Junagadh state, Indian troops being sent in, and many diplomatic maneuvers, the Nawab fled
to Pakistan, and a plebiscite was held. The vote overwhelmingly favored joining India, and
Junagadh became a part of Saurashtra state, and eventually part of Gujarat.

6. Ambaji

Hub(s) : North Gujarat (Ahmedabad)

Ambaji, Holy Mother Goddess, teaches us that the journey of life is to cultivate the heart of a
mother. To strengthen our inner awareness, and our faith in Love, pure and unfettered.

Join the 30 lakh pilgrims from a variety of religions and backgrounds who come here every
year from far away to bow their heads before this goddess. Experience her, worship her, she
who has been worshiped on this land since pre-Vedic times. She who has been praised by saints
and sages of India throughout history. She who is considered the culmination of all the powers
of all the gods put together, the original power of the universe, a radiance with no birth and no
death. She who lives here in the Arasur hills (and so is also known as Arasuri Amba), near the
source of the river Saraswati at the south-western end of the Aravali mountain range. Come,
give yourself to her in these hills, and learn of love from the Mother of mothers.

Background

Being one of the oldest and most revered temples of ancient India, there are many enthralling
legends and myths attached to this temple. Each story intensifies the brilliance of the goddess
and the faith of a devotee. Here are a few notable legends:

1) Shakti Peethas: Sati (also know as Uma) married Lord Shiva against the wishes of her father,
King Daksha Prajapati. In revenge, Daksha organized a huge yagna and invited all the gods
and deities except his new son-in-law. Sati decided to attend the yagna despite Lord Shiva's
attempt to persuade her not to. The King ignored his daughter's presence and publically abused
Lord Shiva. Unable to bear her father’s insults, Sati committed suicide by jumping into the
yagna fire. Upon learning about this, Lord Shiva erupted into a tandava, a furious and wild
dance of destruction, annihilating everything at the yagna site. Overcome with grief, he carried
 Sati’s burning body and flew across the skies. The gods appealed to Lord Vishnu to calm Lord
Shiva. With his sudarshan chakra, Lord Vishnu severed Sati’s body into 51 pieces to bring
Lord Shiva back to sanity. The places where the various parts of Sati’s body fell are known as
shakti peethas. Her heart is believed to have fallen on Arasur hill where the Gabbar Temple of
Ambaji is today.

2) Mahishasur-mardini (the destroyer of Mahishasur): The demon Mahishasur, after being

given a boon by the fire god Agni that he wouldn't be killed by weapons bearing masculine
names, caused grave destruction and terror. The gods sought the help of Lord Shiva, who
advised the invocation of the goddess Shakti. With the gods' prayer, a divine luster sprang from
the heart of Shiva and the bodies of all the gods and formed the goddess Adya Shakti. The gods
gave her ornaments, arms and a lion as a vehicle. She fought with the evil Mahishasur for nine
long days and nights, eventually killing him. After the battle she chose the Ambaji Gabbar, the
shakti peetha, for her permanent residence. Shakradaya Stuti, the gods' prayer of thanks, is an
important part of Saptashati,700 verses praising the deeds of the goddess Ambaji, recited with
reverence at the Ambaji Fair.

3) Ramayana: Lord Rama and Laxman came to the hermitage of the sage Shringi in the south
of the forest of Mount Arbud or Abu, in search of Sita after Ravana abducted her. Shringi
advised them to worship goddess Amba at Gabbar. The goddess presented them an arrow,
called Ajaya, with which Lord Rama finally killed Ravana.

4) Mahabharata

 In dwapar yuga, Nandrai and his wife Yashoda visited Gabbar for Lord Krishna's tonsorial
ceremony (ritual head-shaving).
 Rukmini, the daughter of King Bhishmak of Vidarbha, worshipped goddess Ambaji here to
make Lord Krishna her husband.
 The Pandavas worshipped goddess Ambaji during their exile. She gave Bhimsen a garland
called ajaymala which would ensure victory in battles. She gave Arjun divine costumes for
disguise as Brihannal in their last year of exile while hiding at the court of Virata

7. Bhavnagar

Hub(s) : Rajkot
General: The lapping waves of the Gulf of Khambat along with the majestic splendor of art
and architecture acquaint one to the most royal city of Gujarat. Bhavnagar located at the
Southern tip of Peninsula Gujarat with its principle port Gogha as the entrance to the Gulf of
Cambay, has been a predominant city for trade and commerce.

The glimmering shine of gems to grandiose of the historical structures, vibrant bazzars
flaunting the glory of textile artisans to the finesse of the silversmiths, centuries of ocean trade
to the effervescent entrepreneurship spirit, this city offers ample amount of diversity for any
tourist or visitor. Delicately carved wooden pillars to facades of the merchant houses display
the magnificence and opulent taste and fervor of the inhabitants whereas the buzzing markets
and the industries state the enterprising zeal of the populace.

The intricately lattice work on the walls of Ganga Devi Mandir fills an feeling of awe in the
spectator while the Takhteshwar Temple on the hilltop in the south of the town affords a good
 view over the city to the Gulf of Khambat in the South. The city known for being pioneer in
rural children and women’s education field is also lauded for their efforts in social welfare.

Bhavanagar is also known as the Sanskari Kendra or the Cultural city and is identified for its
cultural ingenuity and the literary laureates who were born and reside in the city. Narsinh
Mehta, Ganga Sati, Jhaverchand Meghani, Kavi Kant, Govardhan Tripathi and many other
poets, writers and artists have been part of the cultural and literary heritage of the city.

8. Bhuj

Hub(s): Kutch

General: Bhuj connects you to a range of civilizations and important events in South Asian
history through prehistoric archaeological finds, remnants of the Indus Valley Civilization
(Harappans), places associated with the Mahabharata and Alexander the Great's march into
India and tombs, palaces and other buildings from the rule of the Naga chiefs, the Jadeja
Rajputs, the Gujarat Sultans and the British Raj. Over the 4000-year inhabitation of Kutch it
developed trading and migratory relationships with ancient civilizations as far abroad as
Zanzibar, the Middle East and Greece, fostering a unique ethnic mix of peoples and traditions
in the region.

In a walk around Bhuj, you can see the Hall of Mirrors at the Aina Mahal; climb the bell tower
of the Prag Mahal next door; stroll through the produce market; have a famous Kutchi pau bhaji
for lunch; examine the 2000-year-old Kshatrapa inscriptions in the Kutch Museum; admire the
sculptures of Ramayana characters at the Ramakund stepwell; walk around Hamirsar Lake and
watch children jumping into it from the lake walls as the hot afternoon sun subsides; and catch
the sunset among the chhatardis of the Kutchi royal family in a peaceful field outside the center
of town.

Background: Kutch has had four thousand years of inhabitation to build up a long and complex
history, especially of its capital, Bhuj. The word kutch means “island” in classical Sanskrit,
referring to the fact that in antiquity, the Ranns (meaning deserts) of Kutch were submerged by
the Indus River flowing into the sea, leaving the area isolated by an immense shallow body of
water. In 1819 an earthquake changed the topography and the Indus began to flow further
westward, leaving the Ranns (now separated into the Great Rann and Little Rann) as a vast
desert of saline flats. During heavy rains, the Ranns still flood, leaving islands, known as beyts,
such as Khadir.

Some historians and archaeologists posit that the Harappans (also known as the Indus Valley
Civilization) crossed the region by land, from the Indus River to the Sabarmati. Others doubt
this, saying that the Ranns would have been permanently underwater at that time and crossing
the deserts from Sindh would have to have been done further north. Either way, Harappan
artifacts have been found in Khadir, making it one of the longest-inhabited regions of India.
Bhuj is almost certainly mentioned in writings of two milennia ago; the writer Strabo (66 BC-
24 AD) writes of Tejarashtra, whose principal city Tej is the modern-day Bhuj in all likelihood.

From the 8th to 16th centuries, Kutch was ruled by the Samma Rajputs from Sindh, during
what is considered to be Sindh's Golden Age. As the power center in Sindh declined, there was
a series of complicated successions and intra-familial murders, leading eventually to the
installment of Lakho Jadeja, descended from the Samma Rajputs, as king. From then on the
 monarchy was known as the Jadeja Rajputs, who ruled directly from Kutch, not from Sindh.
In 1549 Khengarji I moved the capital from Anjar to Bhuj, given its strategic location in the
center of Kutch. The name of the city was derived from Bhujiyo Dungar, the 160 m. hill that
overlooks the city, and said to be the residence of the Great Serpent Bhujang, to whom a temple
stands at the top of the hill. In the late 16th century, the area came under Mughal dominance,
though the Rajput kings still held local administrative powers. King Bharmal I gained favor
with the Mughal Emperor by sending many extravagant gifts, and when the Kutchi rulers
granted free passage and hospitality to pilgrims bound for Mecca, the Mughals exempted them
from paying tribute to the Emperor, and even allowed them to mint a local currency, the kori
(which you can see examples of at the Kutch Museum.) At the beginning of the 18th century,
Rao Godiji saw the need for Kutch to protect itself in the more volatile vacuum left behind by
the decline of the Mughal Empire. He commisioned the building of immense fortifications for
Bhuj, including 11 m. walls, and 51 guns around the edge of the city.

In 1741, Lakhpatji I ascended the throne. An extravagant monarch, he commissioned the

world-famous Aina Mahal palace, built by master artisan Ramsinh Malam, who trained in
Holland and brought back European style and techniques for his designs. Lakhpatji was also a
poet, known for inviting poets to the royal palace, as well as dancers and singers. His legacy
of encouraging cultural development is still felt today, and having led the kingdom to flourish,
he was well loved. Not so his successor, Raydhan II, who was a brutal, iron-fisted madman
(most accounts agree he was losing mental stability as the years progressed.) He converted to
Islam, which in itself was not a problem until he tried to begin forcibly converting all of his
subjects. Though his cruel reign wrecked havoc on the populace, after his decline things
evidently returned to normal, and the religious diversity of Kutch continued.

In 1815, the British arrived and seized Bhujiyo Dungar hill. The state became a British
protectorate, as the king acknowledged British sovereignty in exchange for local autonomy.
Like the Mughals before them, the British began administrative authority over Kutch, but not
direct rule. More concerned with securing the Sindh border than collecting resources, there was
little British intrusion into local life. In fact, they managed to make peace between the Kutchi
kingdom and its neighbors, leading to general prosperity in the area. Building projects
abounded in the 19th century, with Pragmalji II on the throne. He had the Prag Mahal palace
built, as well as the Ranjit Vilas palace, the Vijay Vilas palace in Mandvi, and many hospitals,
schools, irrigation projects and roads. Later considered a princely state, Kutch would continue
thus until joining with a newly independent India.

Upon independence, Kutch became a state in India, while neighboring Sindh joined Pakistan.
This cost Kutch the nearby major port of Karachi, leading to the development of Kandla as an
important port for the region. Twice, territorial disputes with Pakistan over parts of Kutch have
led to fighting, once just before the Second Kashmir War and once around the time of the
Kargil Conflict. Today no border problems exist, and because the actual frontier lies within the
Great Rann, it would be extremely difficult for anyone to cross the vast expanse of very harsh
desert, but the Indian Army keeps a close watch anyway.

9. Lothal

Hub(s) : Ahmedabad Metro

General: You arrive in Lothal and see no intricate carvings or vibrant fresco walls. No grand
fortifications or temples. Instead you see flat and desolate ruins. But you have come not for
what is visible now; rather, to imagine what once was. And in the emptiness, you recreate for
yourself a unique drama of the place that some believe was the cradle of the subcontinent’s
oldest civilization.

Lothal, literally “Mound of the Dead”, is the most extensively excavated site of Harappan
culture in India, and therefore allows the most insight into the story of the Indus Valley
Civilization, its exuberant flight, and its tragic decay.

Once a sleepy pottery village, Lothal rumbled awake to become a flourishing centre of trade
and industry, famous for its expertly constructed system of underground sanitary drainage, and
an astonishing precision of standarized weights and measures. Unlike many other doorways
into Harappan culture, Lothal passed through all the phases of the society, from earliest
development to most mature. In the height of its prosperity, it not only survived but was
strengthened by three floods, using the disaster as an opportunity to improve on the
infrastructure. The fourth flood finally brought the settlement to the desperate and
impoverished conditions that indicated the end of a powerful civilization.

Roam the ruins with your heart open to the ancient, and with the help of the local museum here,
allow yourself to be transported to an era 4,500 years ago, and see in your mind’s eye the palace
on high, and the artisans and crafts below, and the bustling dockyard that once reached out to
the rest of the world.

Background:

Lothal began as a small village on the Sabarmati river, inhabited by people using "red ware"
micaceous pottery (similar to today’s terracotta), during the Chalcolithic era. Sea-faring
merchants, and later the potters, masons, smiths, and seal-cutters of the Indus Valley
Civilization, established a colony at Lothal circa 2450 BC, bringing with them their tools,
technology, crafts, and expanded sea-borne trade. Lothal soon became an industrial center, one
of the southernmost outposts of the Indus Valley Civilization, and the most important port of
the empire.

Around 2350 BC, after all the houses were destroyed by severe floods, the people of Lothal
rallied together, or perhaps were led by someone, to not only rebuild the town, but also to
improve on it. They strengthened the walls of the fort, raised the level of the town, built an
artificial dock, possibly the first in the world, and an extensive warehouse. A hundred & fifty
years later, after the next floods, they again came together to reconstruct the town into a larger
city. After the third severe flood circa 2000 BC, many inhabitants left the city to move to higher
and safer regions. When the city was again completely submerged around 1900 BC, what is
known as the Mature Harappan period gave way to the Late Harappan Period. Poor farmers,
artisans, and fishermen gradually returned in hope of rebuilding their lives, but the urban center
never regenerated. The populace lived in poorly constructed reed huts, with no drainage, and
perhaps even a return to illiteracy. Yet, somehow, the civilization continued here till the 16th
century BC, long after it had disappeared from the northern provinces.

Gradually the town was abandoned and silted up over the next few centuries. Dr. Sr. R. Rao’s
excavation of the site from 1955-62 provided the most exhaustive study of Harappan culture
in India from artifacts and structural remains such as:
  earthenware: strong large ceramic jars, human and animal figurines, as well as toys and
games-figures.
 copper and stone tools: in beautiful designs of human and animal figurines, often of bulls.
 seals: Lothal holds the third largest collection of seals and sealings, engraved on steatite, with
animal and human figurines and letters from Indus script, but these remain undeciphered, so
they do not provide as much insight into the material culture as the other findings. They do
however show aspects of the spiritual culture; there are signs of worship of fire, and of the
sea goddess, but not of the mother goddess.
 beads: Lothal had a highly developed bead-making industry that has not been surpassed even
by the modern Cambay craftspeople working 4000 years later. Lothal was famous for its
micro-beads that were made by rolling ground steatite paste on string, baking it solid, and
then cutting it with a tiny saw into the desired lengths. The expertise is evident in the micro-
beads of gold under 0.25 mm in diameter which cannot be found anywhere else. The gold,
like today, was most likely only for the upper classes, while the poorest citizens had to make
do with shell and terracotta ornaments.
 weights and measures: despite the vast area over which the Harappan culture spread, it
developed an extraordinarily precise system of weights and measures, standardized across
the empire, represented in the local materials at Lothal.
 a network of underground drainage: there were also 12 private paved baths on the upper
town, probably for the ruling classes. These all show a remarkably forward thinking concern
for hygiene and sanitation.
 dock and warehouse: The dockyard allowed ships to sluice from the sea, and expertly
constructed lock gates allowed them to float while loading or unloading their cargo.
Apparently the dockyard could, at that time, hold 30 ships of 60 tonnes, or 60 ships of 30
tonnes, a capacity comparable to that of the modern docks of Vishakapatnam. The dock
allowed sea trade with West Asia, in particular, to expand greatly.

Lothal was believed to be Dravidian, but recent findings of association with Vedas and other
Sanskrit scriptures lead some to believe this was the cradle of Aryan civilization in the sub-
continent. There does seem to be enough evidence to suggest non-Aryan origin, and strong
Aryan influence, as well as a meeting of the cultures, both violent and peaceful.

10. Mandvi – Kutch

Hub(s): Kutch

General: In the 21st century, most people travel by land in fast-moving buses or trains, and to
reach destinations further away, many even travel in airplanes. Sometimes it is hard to
remember that until the mid-1800s, overland travel was done by horse or bullock-cart. That
human technological flight began only a century ago, and flying only became available to
average travellers in the last 50 years. Until the middle of the 20th century, for the several
millennia of human history that came before us, people voyaged on the seas. How many of us
today have traveled on the open ocean?

If you don't feel ready to embark on a seabound voyage anytime soon, visiting a historical port
town may at least bring you closer to understanding the way people and goods used to move
around the planet (and 95% of world trade still does!). Here in Mandvi, the principal port of
Kutch and of Gujarat for hundreds of years until the rise of Mumbai, visit the shipbuilding
yards along the Rukmavati River where wooden ships are still built by hand. Stand at the Tower
of Wagers, where wealthy shipowners would gather in May to scan the horizons, awaiting the
return of the trading fleet from East Africa, and bet on whose would arrive first. Wander around
 the Vijay Vilas Palace and marvel at the items brought from far-off ports, and the architecture
itself that shows a global awareness in its mixture of styles. Or recreate your favorite scene
from Lagaan or Hum Dil De Chuke Sanam, both of which have scenes filmed at the palace.

Try Mandvi's famous local double rotis, also known as dabeli. Or, if you simply want a place
sit at the ocean, let the salty breeze wash over you, and swim in the warm waters of the Arabian
Sea, Mandvi's several quiet, clean beaches with flamingos and other migrant birds will surely
do the trick.

Things to do: Most things in Mandvi revolve around the water. A visit to the beach, exploring
the shipbuilding area, a walk along the river; all these are indispensable. But the town is also
easily explored on foot, and it is well worth wandering the narrow streets to check out the mix
of old architecture. Many wealthy barons during the city's heyday had flamboyant houses built,
with lots of European influence; it is not uncommon to see carved angels, or stained-glass
windows. The many bazaars, where all kinds of goods can be found, from bandhani textiles to
tasty fresh produce, should not be missed. Specific points of interest are as follows:

Background: Mandvi was founded as a port town by the Khengarji, the king of Kutch, in 1574.
The first temple to be built was the Sundarwar temple, followed by the Jama Masjid in 1603,
the Lakshminarayan Temple in 1607, the Kajivali Mosque in 1608 and the Rameshwar Temple
in 1627. For all of this to have been built in the first 50 years of the towns existence is a clear
indicator of its importance to the kingdom. Indeed, at its peak, Mandvi's wealth easily surpassed
that of the capital at Bhuj, and it was only after ships grew too large for its harbor and began to
prefer Mumbai that Mandvi started fading from the scene.

For 400 years, the shipbuilding industry has been the center of life in Mandvi. It was once the
principal port of Kutch and of Gujarat. At its peak, exports were said to outnumber imports
fourfold, and their revenue reflected that. Ships came and went from East Africa, the Persian
Gulf, the Malabar Coast (now called Kerala, in south India), and South-East Asia. During Rao
Godiji's reign in the 1760's, he built and maintained a fleet of 400 ships, one that sailed as far
as England and returned. The city used to have 8 m. fortified walls around it, but only small
portions remain.

In 1929 the Vijay Vilas palace was built by Rao Vijayrajji, and is maintained in excellent
condition today. The British Political Agent based in Bhuj had summer quarters at Mandvi,
and the British cemetery attests to the extended presence of the British in the area.

As ships grew larger and Mumbai became an ever-more-powerful center of commerce, fewer
and fewer vessels would moor at Mandvi, preferring Mumbai or Surat. Today, with a harbor
far too small for modern supersized shipping operations, it is no longer a major shipping port,
but shipbuilding is still done by hand on the banks of the Rukmavati River.

11. Marine National Park

Hub(s) : Jamnagar

General: The tide is high. Your boat sets off from the jetty and you are moved across the salt
water that covers seventy percent of the planet. Your stars align, and in the crossing, you see a
pod of dolphins surface for air. If you come during winter, above you spreads a V of impossible
length, several thousand migratory birds. Out of the corner of your eye you see something drop
out of the sky, a kingfisher swooping down on breakfast. As you near the islands, you see a
curious tree, with roots that stick out of the water, mangroves. There are birds wading among
the roots, and more packed in the branches.

Later, as the water recedes, revealing a vibrant and unique, but terribly fragile eco-system, you
step tenderly towards it, finding a veritable underwater forest with creatures of fantastic colors
and patterns and textures that you used to want to draw as a child. As the tide turns, the beach
floods with more birds than you’ve seen for months, feeding on the bodies of creatures left
behind by the waters.

Ferry to the islands: Just the ride from Jamnagar to the islands, even before exploring them
on foot, is spectacular. Be sure to look out for different kinds of birds in each habitat, as
described in the general information section. You might also be able to tour some of the other
islands by boat if you inquire.

You must ask permission to enter the islands, and we suggest you request a guide, both for the
richness of your own experience and for the protection of the sanctuary, since the impact of
visitors can be heavy.

For permission, information about fees and other details, contact the Conservator of Forests
Office, Tel: 0288 2679355, Nagnath Gate, Van Sankul, Ganjiwada, Jamnagar.

Background: India’s first Marine Wildlife Sanctuary and first Marine National Park were
created here in the Gulf of Kutch in 1980 and 1982, respectively. This was a leap forward in
societal and governmental consciousness about interacting with the natural world. The
sanctuary covers 458 sq km, of which the park covers 163 sq km. It is an archipelago of 42
tropical islands along the northern coast of Jamnagar district and the southern coast of Kutch.

The sanctuary lies in the intertidal zone, between the lowest and highest tide levels, the area
that lies below water in high tide, and is exposed during low tide. This gives us a chance to
observe the richest diversity of marine habitats in the country, including saline grasslands,
marshy areas, rocky shores, mudflats, creeks, estuaries, sandy strands, coral reefs, and
mangroves. The latter two are an essential part of not only the local environment, but also the
stability and diversity of the planet; they are unfortunately severely degraded in many parts of
the world. During the Tsunami in 2004, the few areas that were still protected and had
mangrove forests intact made it dramatically apparent how important this was, in comparison
to the areas that were open and vulnerable.

Some of the finest coral reef fringe islands are found at Pirotan, Narala, Ajad and Positara,
often a surprise even to Gujaratis. There are 52 coral species, 42 of them hard and 10 of them
soft. Coral is made of millions of colorful little animals called polyps, bound together by algae
and other plants, in a variety of intriguing shapes and formations. The polyps breath out carbon
dioxide, while the binding plants release oxygen, with a high nutrient turnover equivalent to a
tropical rainforest. The rock-like formations provide shelter and safe breeding grounds for
various tiny marine species in hiding from larger predators.

There are 7 species of mangroves here, performing vital functions such as maintaining the
balance between salt and fresh water systems, and protecting the coast from erosion. The
mangrove trees can be identified by their peculiar roots, which reach up through the mud and
out of the water.
 The mangroves are breeding grounds for colonies of near-threatened species of birds such as
Painted Stork, Darter and Black-necked Ibis. You will find these and other species of birds
packed in the branches, ready to feed on the fish and invertebrate that are attracted to the
protein-rich leaf-litters of the swamp forest. Other species are waders, such as Avocets and
Phalaropes, usually found in shallow waters. A third category can be seen over the open waters,
swooping down to catch fish, birds such as Gulls, Terns, Kingfishers, Osprey, Marsh Harrier,
Palla’s Fish Eagle. There are about 80 recorded species of birds on these islands. Every day at
low tide it is a thrill to watch the overwhelming numbers of coastal birds that assemble on the
banks to feed on the beached marine life. In winter they are joined by the migratory birds,
which can also be seen flying in V-formations over the Gulf of Kutch in flocks of several
thousands.

At low tide wading in the shallow waters you will also meet

 giant sea anemone, animals that look like flowers, and harbor shrimp in its folds, the two life
forms exchanging food for protection in a heartwarming symbiosis,
 more than 40 species of sponges, variously colored,
 starfish, some of whom have a disconcerting ability to drop their arms when handled,
 sea cucumber, a creature that ejects its body parts to distract a predator,
 octopus that changes color for camouflage,
 puffer fish that swell up in defense, and suddenly deflate to escape when trapped,
 the occasional dolphin in the waters further away,
 and other charming local residents such as lichen, jellyfish, mollusks, sea-slugs, sea urchins,
echinoderms, crabs and other crustaceans, mudskippers, worms. Many of these are
decorated with brilliant colors and intricate designs.

The beaches of the Gujarat coast are breeding grounds for the Green Sea Turtle and other
marine turtles. In the deeper sea of this area lives the whale shark, feeding off plankton,
considered the largest fish in the world, now endangered because it is killed for its flesh and
cartilage oil.

12. Mehsana

Hub(s): North Gujarat (Ahmedabad)

General: Mehsana is the district headquarters and the nearest town to Modhera and an ideal
central location to plan out an itinerary to the surrounding areas. The town is known for its
‘Dudhsagar Dairy’ plant, a post modernist structure designed by Achyut Kanvinde and a must
see for architecture enthusiasts.

Its also hard to miss on the Ahmedabad-Mehsana highway, the glorious Mehsana Jain is an
important pilgrimage site for Jains in Gujarat. It is dedicated to the current tirthankar, first of
the second chauvisi (string of 24) of the Jains, Bhagwan Simandhar Swami. According to Jain
astronomy, the scriptures predict the existence of a planet in the north-east direction, know as
Mahavideh Kshetra. It says that Bhagwan is alive there and currently preaching to the people
of that world. The huge 32-foot idol sculpted in white marble was installed under the inspiration
of Acharya Kailassagarsuri Maharaj Saheb in the year 2028 of the Vikram era in the Hindu
Calendar (1971 AD).
13. Nalsarovar Bird Sanctuary

General: The lake - Nalsarovar - and the wetlands around it were declared a bird sanctuary
in 1969. Spread over 120 sq.kms, the lake and the extensive reed beds and marshes are an ideal
habitat for aquatic plants and animals. The lake attracts a large variety of birds like plovers,
sandpipers and stints.

There are 360-odd islets in the lake. Most of them lie exposed when the water level is low. The
lake gets filled with water that drains from the adjoining Surendranagar and Ahmedabad
districts in the monsoon. With this fresh water inflow, brackishness in the lake is reduced
considerably.

The migratory birds arrive in vast numbers, homing in on the lake. There are flocks of pelicans,
flamingoes, ducks, demoiselle cranes, common cranes, and several waders occupying huge
patches of the lake during the season. With the approaching summer the lake water dries up
making it brackish, and the fish and other insect life becomes scarce. The migratory birds and
most of the resident birds, such as cormorants, grebes and openbill storks, begin to leave by
April.

Background: The Nal region is a low-lying area between the plains of the Central Gujarat
and Eastern Saurashtra. Owing to its low lying topography, it is believed to represent a filled
up sea link, that previously existed between the Little Rann in the north and the Gulf of
Khambat in the south. Remnants of this sea are thought to be represented by the Nalsarovar.

Interesting facts: Nalsarovar is best for a one-day picnic from Ahmedabad. But in just 64
km, you will be transported to a water wonderland where everything is dream-like and exotic
bird varieties offer eye-catching selfie opportunities. More than that Nalsarovar is a true bird
watcher’s paradise with countless species of birds thronging the place. Spread over 120 square
kilometers, the lake and the extensive reed beds and marshes are an ideal habitat for aquatic
plants and animals.

The peculiar habitat attracts hundreds of species of birds. A large variety of birds like
plovers, sandpipers and stints are seen all seasons. Interestingly, the sanctuary has 360-odd
islets. Most of them lie exposed when the water level is low. That is not the case when the lake
gets filled with water that drains from the adjoining Surendranagar and Ahmedabad districts
during the monsoon rains. Then the water turns clearer with reduced brackishness. At this time,
resident birds such as cormorants, grebes and open bill storks are joined by large flocks of
migratory birds. They arrive en masse to the sanctuary. Flamingoes, pelicans,
ducks,demoiselle cranes, common cranes, and several waders occupy the area. Obviously, for
the bird watchers too, this is the best time to visit.

Look out for: Sandpipers, Flamingoes and Pelicans

Be one of few to record: An exotic Flamingo in a beautiful angle
Seasons: Winter

14. Narmada River

Hub(s): Vadodara
 General: Whatever we tell you, however detailed a description we give, it won't do justice to
the body of water that flows from the Amarkantak plateau to Arabian sea, the river we call
Narmada. Hinduism sees it as one of the seven most sacred rivers in India, and in fact, most
wisdom traditions around the world draw inspiration from rivers and their behavior.

Come stand on the banks of the Narmada, and whatever your faith, you might momentarily be
inspired to carry out the Narmada parikrama, a two to three year process of travelling by foot
up one entire bank of the river and down the other. For the time being, see how far this spell
carries you; put one foot in front of the other and see how far they take you; take in the colorful
riverside, the temples, ashrams, bathing sites and warm-hearted people; listen deeply for the
river's voice as it tumbles home to the sea, washing humanity clean of its borders, divisions
and short-sightedness.

Background: Narmada as a mythological being, called Ma (Mother) Narmada by her devotees,

means "one who endows bliss". She is believed to have been born from Shiva's sweat as he
danced his tandava, and so is referred to as his daughter.

The Narmada river from source to sea is 1312 km long, the largest in Gujarat, and the fifth
largest in India. It is often seen as the boundary between North and South India. It originates
in the Amarkantak plateau, where the Vindhya and Saptura mountain ranges meet, and
continues southwest across the state of Madhya Pradesh, along the northern border of
Maharashtra, and then winds through the Gujarati districts Narmada, Vadodara, and Bharuch,
before emptying at the city of Bharuch into the Arabian sea through the Gulf of Khambat
(Cambay).

15. Northwest Kutch

Hub(s) : Kutch

General: Northwest Kutch is home to four sites of interest: Narayan Sarovar, one of
Hinduism’s holiest lakes; Koteshwar Temple, virtually next door, connected to legends of Lord
Shiva and Ravana; Lakhpat, a major port city before the Great Rann dried up in 1819, now a
ghost town of ruins; and the Narayan Sarovar Wildlife Sanctuary, home to many species of
birds and the chinkara gazelle, along with other wildlife.

Because these sites are very far from Bhuj but quite close to each other, most travelers take
advantage of the journey to visit them all at the same time.

16. Palitana – Shatrunjaya

Hub(s): : Rajkot

General: Every religion has its focal points on the surface of the earth. In the case of Jainism,
the holiest places lie not on the surface, but reaching up into the skies. Along with Mts. Abu,
Girnar and Chandragiri, Shatrunjaya is one of the most sacred places for the faith. Climbing
the stairs of Shatrunjaya is, for a pilgrim, the ascent to greater knowledge along the path to
liberation. For a visitor, it can be a day's journey into the heart of the Jain spirituality, a passage
through a new cosmology of total non-violence and devotion.
 Things to do: The climb up Shatrunjaya is no doubt the primary activity of a Palitana visit, for
Jains and non-Jains alike. The hill is 3 kms from Palitana proper, and the 600 m climb over
3000 stairs to the top of the mountain is an unforgettable experience. Beginning at dawn is
recommended, to avoid the mid-day heat. Frequent rest stops to visit temples along the way
also help avoid overheating. Many devotees even gather at the highest temples before sunrise,
having climbed in the predawn twilight. Be sure to carry enough water and leave a few hours
to explore the mountain. Idols are bathed around 9:30am, and pujas tend to be performed
around noon. If climbing in the afternoon, be sure to descend with enough time to arrive at the
bottom before dark.

The construction of temples of Palitana spanned over a period of 900 years and was structured
in two phases. From the 11th to 12th centuries AD as a part of the resurgence of temple building
all over India, the first phase of temple architecture was constructed. The second phase
followed later, from the 16th century AD onwards. Muslim invaders destroyed some of the
earliest temples built in the 11th century AD during the 14th and 15th centuries AD. No one
person can be attributed for the construction of these magnificent temples rather it was the
effort of the wealthy businessmen who were followers of Jainism.

Several customs must be observed, as the entire hill is sacred to Jains, not only the temples. In
keeping with the strict non-violence of Jainism, no leather products (wallets, belts, etc.) should
be carried on the mountain. Dress appropriately; shorts and sleeveless shirts are considered
disrespectful. Women should avoid tight-fitting clothing. When entering temples, remove your
shoes and leave any food outside. Inside the shrines, you should not talk, laugh or smoke.
Permission must be obtained from temple attendants for photography. There is no entry fee for
any part of the mountain. No one, not even the priests, may remain on the mountain at night,
as it is an abode of the gods and they are not to be disturbed.

Background

According to Jain scripture, Shatrunjaya hill was the site where Adinath, the 1st Jain tirthankar,
achieved enlightenment. The hill thus became one of the holiest sites of Jainism. It is no
coincidence that the most sacred sites of Jainism are all mountains, where pilgrims ascend to
the heavens, seeking their path to enlightenment.

Some accounts say there are nearly 900 temples on Shatrunjaya, some a great deal less. The
date of the first temples’ construction is uncertain, but appears to be around the 11th century.
Over the next several centuries, many more temples were built. Some temples were torn down,
ravaged by thieves or non-Jains, and the temple complex has seen successive renovations over
the last half-milennium. Most of the temples standing today date from the 16th century onward.
Under Mughal rule, Emperor Akbar issued an edict granting special status to Shatrunjaya, as
well as to Mts. Abu, Girnar and Chandragiri (in the Himalaya), protecting the area from non-
Jain influence, prohibiting the killing of animals at the site, and thus allowing Jain tradition to
flourish uninhibited.

At the foot of Shatrunjaya, the town of Palitana was the capital of a small princely state,
founded by a Gohel Rajput named Shahji. Though clearly most famous for the nearby temple
complexes, Palitana is also known for excellent horse breeding, and local industries of diamond
cutting, production of harmonium reeds and weighing scales.

17. Patan:
 Hub(s): North Gujarat (Ahmedabad)

General: In childhood you built yourself a fort of sheets and pillows, and discovered that the
enclosure gave you the freedom to explore. Now enter the town of Patan, hugged by its fort
walls and gates still largely intact, and re-discover the spirit of play.

You meander through the bustling bazaar of this charismatic town. Tucked away among the
havelis in the narrow pols you stumble upon rope or bidi (traditional cigarette) makers, working
on their doorsteps. You go on a treasure hunt in search of the unique patola and mashru
weavers, the snow-white Jain temples, the Hemachandracharya Jain Gnan library of ancient
Hindu and Jain texts.

You find yourself leaving the city walls heading north-west, as if something calls you. On your
way to Anahilvada Patan, the ancient city that served as Gujarat’s capital for 650 years, you
find the 1000 year old Kali temple from where Kali Mata, the kuldevi (family goddess) of the
Solanki dynasty, guards the town. Furthest north, you find the Sahasralinga Talav, literally
“lake of a thousand lingas”, which is finely constructed to channel water in from the nearby
Saraswati, and you begin to realize that it is the sanctity of water that has been and still is,
beckoning you. You turn around and come towards the edge of Rani Ki Vav, the “Queen’s
stepwell”, and as you descend into the cool air towards the water, the carved stone gods and
consorts invite you into their world, the world of spirit and the sacred. Here, in the infinite,
your journey is always just beginning.

Background: The ancient city of Anahilvada Patan was founded by Vanraj Chavda, the first
of the Chavda dynasty. Legend has it that he laid the foundation at the place pointed out by
Anahil, a shepherd friend from his younger days, and named the city after him.

The city was the capital of Gujarat for 650 years, from 746-1411, after the center of power
moved from Saurashtra around the same time that the separate kingdoms of the area were
integrated into roughly what we today call Gujarat. It was ruled by a series of dynasties: the
Chavda, Solanki, and finally Vaghela. Under the Solanki rule, 942-1244, Anahilvada shone as
a center of trade, learning, and architectural achievements. It was also a thriving center for
Jainism, and the Solanki rulers commissioned a large number of Hindu and Jain temples, as
well as other civic and religious constructions.

During the Vaghela rule towards the end of the 13th century, Ulugh Khan, commander under
Alauddin Khilji, plundered the town and destroyed it completely. In 1411 the capital shifted to
the newly founded Ahmedabad, leaving Patan as a shadow of its former glory. One of the
positive effects of Muslim rule in Patan is the presence of some of the earliest the Muslim
buildings in Gujarat, built before even the earliest famous constructions in Ahmedabad.

The ruins of the ancient city, with the famous Rani Ki Vav and Sahasralinga Talav, stand about
2 km northwest of the quaint town of present-day Patan, which is known for its patola saris and
mashru weavers.

18. Polo Monument and Vijaynagar Forest North Gujarat (Ahmedabad)

General: Tucked away in a forest, there are secrets to be revealed... An ancient city, a gateway
to Rajasthan. A hiding place for rulers, concealed from enemies, citizens, angry wives, even
from the sun, tucked between sacred hills on the east and west. And the mystery of
 abandonment, decay.Ancient temples, some still performing their pujas deep within this dense
jungle, itself the larger temple, the trees themselves the gods.

Adivasi settlements, their lives rooted in their connection to the forest, from whom you might
learn to listen to the deep hum of the world that envelops these scattered whispers of human
constructions...

Come. Listen. Learn. Know your Self. You may return to your homes, your cities, your roads,
but the forest will never leave you.

Friendly tips: The fig trees, when in fruit, are good places to look out for the endangered Grey
Hornbill and Brown-headed Barbet who will come to nibble. Grey Hornbills can also be found
at a Banyan tree near the campsite, when it is out with its bright red fruit. On another tree on
the other side of the camp look for woodpeckers, and fruit birds and prey birds at the top,
especially during a particular half hour in the afternoon (the exact time of which changes).

Background

The ancient Polo city was built around the river Harnav, an ancient water body spoken of in
the Puranas. It is believed to have been established in the 10th century by the Parihar kings of
Idar, and was then conquered in the 15th century by the Rathod Rajputs of Marwar. The name
is derived from pol, the Marwari word for "gate," signifying its status as a gateway between
Gujarat and Rajasthan. It was built between Kalaliyo in the east, the highest peak in the area,
and Mamrehchi in the west, considered sacred by the local adivasis. Together they block
sunlight for most of the day, which might provide an explanation for the otherwise mysterious
abandonment of the ancient city.

The 400 square km area of dry mixed deciduous forest is most lush between September and
December after the monsoon rains when the rivers are full, but at any time of the year it
provides a rich wildlife experience. There are more than 450 species of medicinal plants,
around 275 of birds, 30 of mammals, and 32 of reptiles. There are bears, panthers, leopards,
hyenas, water fowl, raptors, passerines, and flying squirrels (mostly heard, rarely seen), all
living under a canopy of diverse plants and trees. During winter, all manner of migratory birds
occupy the forest; during the rainy season there are wetland birds.

Until recently, this area was not well-known, and saw very few visitors. The numbers have
increased dramatically in the last few years, thanks to a few individuals working to promote its
beauty. This increased flow comes with a price, however. It is important to remember, as
visitors, to approach each destination and its inhabitants, human or otherwise, humbly, openly,
and with the awareness that every interaction, no matter how slight, carries its own impact on
the area whether we know it or not.

19. Porbandar

Hub(s): Junagadh

General: Let us begin our journey where Gandhi began his. On October 2, 1869, Mohandas
Karamchand Gandhi was born in a 3-storey blue haveli in the city of Porbandar, where his
father, uncle and grandfather had all been prime ministers to the Jethwa Rajput rulers of the
princely state. The city had been a prosperous trading center for centuries, conducting much
 commerce with Arabian and Persian Gulf countries, as well as East Africa, under the Mughals,
the Marathas and the British. Now it is a city of industry, with cement and chemical factories
ringing the city, contributing to a general griminess around town.

The site of Gandhi’s birth, now called Kirti Mandir, has been converted into a small museum
about him, with an exhibit of old photographs, some of his very few possessions and a nice
library of books either by him or relating to Gandhian philosophy and practice. The room where
his mother gave birth to him has, as expectable, nothing special about it. It was the family
home.

Two km from the middle of town is Bharat Mandir, with exhibits of sculptures, pictures and
other examples of Indian tradition. Next door is the Nehru Planetarium, with regular programs
about astronomy. Both sites are open from 9am-12pm and 3pm-6pm and entry to each is Rs.3/.

20. Saputara Hill Station

Hub(s): Surat

General: Take a deep breath. Disappear. You have entered nature’s womb.

In winter, at the spill of dawn, trek up to the Gandhi Shikhar as the river of light bathes the
streams over undulating mountains and the drifting birds, into a magical dance of awakening.

In rains, breathe in the rolling hills of Saputara, echoing green hues, lush with flowers, and
watch the meditating rain drops sitting still on sloping leaves. Some of the thickest forest cover
in the state envelops you.

In summer, walk carefree on the expanse of the Governor’s hill and see the sun dip into the
Saputara lake as the sky begins to shimmer with stars.

As your bus chugs uphill, crisscrossing over the Ambika river, you leave all the congestion of
towns and cities far below you and enter the spirit world of tribal people. Nestled in the
Sahyadri range, at an altitude of about 1000 m, this Dangi enclave derives its name from the
Snake god revered by the tribals and translates as ‘the abode of serpents’, Saputara.

In spite of being the only hill station of Gujarat, it is minimally commercialized, still unspoiled.

Involved Tourism

Learn about the rich tribal culture of this region. Visit the Ritambhara Vishva Vidyapeeth and
learn about the work of its founder, the highly respected Mrs. Poornima Pakvasa who has
worked tirelessly for the empowerment of tribal women for more than five decades. Today,
well-known as the 'Didi of Dang', she is more than 90 years old. Also other legendary social
activists like Ghelubhai Naik and Chhotubhai Naik have started many programs for the
inhabitants of the Dangs at their Ashram at Ahwa.

21. Shamlaji: Hub(s) : North Gujarat (Ahmedabad)

General:
 The temple of Shamlaji stands on the banks of the river Meshwo, in veneration of Vishnu. The
river Meshwo meanders over its rocky bed in the valley immediately below, and the waters of
a splendid natural lake, of great beauty sparkle amid the well-wooded hills.

Sakshi Gopal or Gadadhar is a black representation of Vishnu worshipped at the Shamlaji

Temple. This is one of the rare temples of Lord Krishna in which cow idols are also worshipped
depicting his childhood as a cowherd. For the Vaishnavites Shamlaji is one of the hundred and
fifty four most important places of pilgrimage in India.

It is believed that this shrine has existed for at least 500 years. Built of white sandstone and
bricks, it has two storeys supported on rows of pillars. It is profusely carved and episodes from
sacred epics of the Ramayana and Mahabharata are engraved on the outer walls. Its beautiful
domed ceilings and a traditional north Indian spire over the main shrine add to the magnificence
of its open courtyard accompanied by the carving of a life-size elephant.

Background

There are three very interesting legend behind the creation of this temple.

 According to one, Brahma once embarked on a journey to find out the best tirtha (sacred site)
on the earth. After seeing a number of places, he came to Shamlaji, which he liked the most
and performed penance there for one thousand years. Lord Shiva, who was pleased with him,
asked him to perform a yajna (ritual). At the beginning of the yajna, Lord Vishnu manifested
himself in the form of Shamlaji, and was enshrined at this place.
 Another legend has it that Vishwakarma, the architect of the Gods, constructed this temple in
one night, but as it was morning by the time he completed it, he could not take it with him
and had to return leaving it here.
 According to the third story, an Adivasi found the idol of Shamlaji while ploughing his land. He
worshipped it by lighting a lamp everyday and was blessed for his faith by having an abundant
yield in his farm. Learning of this, a Vaishnava merchant built the temple and installed the idol
therein, which was later beautified by the Idar rulers. More recently, a prominent business
family further renovated this temple.

22. Somnath

Hub(s): Junagadh

In the Shivapurana and the Nandi Upapurana, Lord Shiva is quoted as saying, 'I am
omnipresent, but I am especially in twelve forms and places.' These places are known as
jyotirlingas, and Somnath is the first to be found in the world. Around the linga the moon god
Soma built a mythical temple of gold as an ode to Lord Shiva's glory and compassion. Like the
waxing and waning moon, and fittingly for a place associated with Lord Shiva's cosmic dance
of creative destruction, the Somnath temple has risen unfailingly from repeated acts of
devastation.

On Kartik Sud 14 in the Hindu calendar, the day of Shiva's son Kartikeya's birth, a fair is held
for four days at the shrine of Somnath. Millions of devotees converge here for these ebullient
celebrations on the shores of the Arabian Sea.
 Background: According to Puranic legend, Soma, the moon, married 27 sisters, but stubbornly
favored one to the neglect of the others. Their father, Daksha Prajapati, therefore cursed him
to have his brilliance consumed by the darkness of night. Stricken with grief, the moon went
to holy places, trying to alleviate his pain, but to no avail. At last he came here and worshipped
Shiva with great devotion for 4000 years. Shiva took pity on him and bade that he should wane
in brilliancy for only 15 days in a month, recovering his lost splendor in the following fortnight.
Overcome with gratitude, the moon erected a golden temple to Shiva over the previously
existing jyotirlinga. As the moon regained his brilliancy, bhas, at this site, it was named
Prabhas, which means "the exceedingly brilliant."

The temple came to be known as exceptionally auspicious--people suffering from incurable

diseases were reported cured after simply touching the linga. In the Mahabharata, Krishna
advised the Yadavas that a pilgrimage to Somnath would absolve them of Durvasa's curse.

Another legend tells that not far from Somnath is a place where Krishna, reclining under a pipal
tree, was shot in the foot by a Bhil huntsman named Jara who had mistaken him for a deer.
Limping a long way eastward, Krishna was able to reach the bank of the river Hiranya just
above the triveni sangam (meeting place of three rivers), and breathed his last in a small cave.
His body was taken to the triveni sangam and cremated there. The site where he was shot is
known as Bhalka Tirtha, and the site of his cremation, near a temple to Mahakali, is called
Dehotsarg.

The first historical temple at Somnath is believed to have been built between 320 and 500 AD.
As it grew in importance due to the stories above, pilgrims converged at the temple to offer
whatever they could, kings bestowed riches upon it, and the town and temple flourished with
great wealth.

The temple was destroyed a few times during its first several centuries, but little details are
available about the successive destructions and reconstructions. In the 11th century AD, the
Sunni Muslim iconoclast Mahmud of Ghazni (998-1030), sacked the temple and returned to
Ghazna in eastern Afghanistan with the temple treasures, including the famed silver gate. Then,
after a rebuilding, in 1297 AD Allaudin Khilji's commander-inchief Afzal Khan destroyed the
structure. Over the next 500 years, the temple was successively reconstructed and ransacked,
by Muzzafar Shah I in 1390, by Muhammad Begda in 1490, Muzzafar II in 1530 and
Aurangzeb in 1706.

In 1783 Maharani Ahalyabai Holkar of Indore built another Somnath temple next to the original
site, which was in serious disrepair. After Independence, Sardar Patel visited Somnath, was
deeply moved by the poor condition of the original temple site, and resolved to renovate it as
soon as possible. In 1951, the new temple was constructed on the original grounds, next to the
18th-century construction of Holkar's. The remains of the old temple are now preserved in a
museum for public view. The jyotirlinga was installed by then-President of India, Dr. Rajendra
Prasad, in 1950 AD. The overall look reminds one of a Solanki temple in the manner of
Modhera, due to the efforts of Sardar Patel, whose statue stands outside.

23. Taranga Hills: Hub(s): North Gujarat (Ahmedabad)

General: Taranga Hills are located around 20 km from Vadnagar, on the Aravali range and
harbours have the profound connections with Buddhism.
From the banks of the Saraswati, you start on the path that ascends up the Taranga hills. On
your way you may see Jain monks striding barefoot. On the peaks above, you sight tiny white
chhatris and a little shrine to Devi Taranamata from whom the village derives its name. The
idols in the temples of Taranmata and Dharanmata are basically of Buddhist goddess Tara.
There are a few images found from here and the broken terracotta images of Buddha, four
carved images of Dhyani Buddha on a stone plate, stone and brick walls inside rock shelters
are some of them.

As your footsteps ascend upward the Taranga Jain temple, suffused in the fresh air of the hill,
welcomes you. This 12th century derasar, is one of the best preserved and least restored temples
in Gujarat, and a testament to the devotion and dedication of the Solanki Rajputs. Though a
less-frequent stop on the standard tourist trail, it is considered to be one of India’s most
treasured works of architecture.

Entering the womb of this magnificent Jain temple, where a five-meter tall sculpture of the 2nd
Jain tirthankar, Shri Ajitnath, sits peacefully, may be a portal, for some, into deep unspeakable
inner stillness. The teacher, Ajitnath, having transcended action and suffering, transmits an
intense and unmoving quiet, beyond the known.

The temple lingers mysteriously in the consciousness of its visitor. The almost absent gaze of
the tirthankar inside contrasts with the overflow of fluid sensual movements of dancing
maidens, gods and goddesses, lovingly detailed outside in stone. The voluptuous damsels in
their intricately carved costumes, as though dancing, both graceful and arousing. In the words
of travel writer Philip Ward, “If you thought Jainism would be too intellectual to appeal to you,
let this riot of sculptural delights overwhelm you.”

Background

Taranga is a three peaked hill in the Mehsana District of Gujarat. The river Rupen flows along
the Taranga Hills; and to the east flows the river Sabarmati.

Taranga tirtha is considered one of the most important Shvetambar Jain temples, one of the
five most important mahatirthas of the Jains. Of the 108 places known as Siddhachal, where
holy people have attained enlightenment, one is called "Tarangir".

Temples of such magnitude as this one are generally built at a siddh kshetra, a holy place where
saints are said to have attained enlightment. It is popularly believed that 35,000,000 munis,
including Vardutt and Sagardutt, attained moksha here.

Under the guidance of renowned Jain scholar and poet Hemachandracharya, the Solanki King
Kumarpala (1145-72), ruling from the capital in Patan, converted to Jainism and laid the
foundation for this colossal temple, adding it to his growing legacy, along with the restoration
of the ruined Somnath temple and the construction of the walls of Vadnagar. It was renovated
on a large scale in the 16th century during the rule of the Mughal emperor Akbar, who
supported diversity of religions.

The two hillocks named Kotishila and Sidhhshila have idols of Bhagwan Neminath and
Bhagwan Mallinath of Vikram 1292, by the Jain calendar (1235 AD, by the Gregorian
calendar). There are 14 Digambar Jain temples and one dharamshala in the foothills. Digambar
 Jains have been settled on this isolated hill since the time of Ajitnath Bhagwan, the 2nd Jain
tirthankar.

24. The Gir National Park

Hub(s) : Junagadh

General

In Gir you touch the history of India before humanity itself. Before monuments, temples,
mosques and palaces. Or rather, a history as humanity was emerging, when humans coexisted
with lions, before the former had overrun the continent (and the world) and pushed the latter
to the brink of extinction.

Many come to Gir because, outside of Africa, it is the only place with wild lions. But to truly
experience Gir and the lions, you must explore their natural habitat, with everything from tiny
wild birds, not easily seen, but heard singing in the forest canopy, to crocodiles floating in the
marsh waters.

Driving around, you are uncommonly aware you are in someone else's territory. You stay in
your vehicle because you are in the home of lions, leopards, hyenas, crocodiles; you
remember that humans do not rule the world, and however "advanced" we think we are, most
of us would not survive very long on our own in a place like Gir.

That is not to say that all humans are out of place. The local Maldhari community has lived
here for generations and coexists magnifcently with the wilderness. They sustain themselves
by grazing their livestock and harvesting what they need from the forest. The sizeable portion
of their herds lost to lions and other predators is considered prasad, offered in exchange for
living in another's homeland.

How many of us are aware, let alone as concientious as the Maldharis about the impact of our
lifestyle on other species? How can we be, if we so distance ourselves from the habitats that
are ravaged to feed our material appetites? When you visit Gir, try to see the Maldharis not
with nostalgia for a picturesque past, but as crucial teachers for a better present and future.
You don't have to be a shepherd living with wild lions to learn from their way of life. Ask
yourself why we have reached the point where National Parks like Gir are neccessary; what
happened to these lions who used to inhabit everywhere from Greece to Bangladesh. If you
begin to understand the deeper implications of these questions, you will return home, whether
home is a hut in the countryside, or a high-rise apartment, whether in Mumbai or Berlin,
charged with new inspiration for evolution in your own life.

Gir is a place that deserves time and involvement. Your chances of spotting wildlife in a few
hours is small, especially in the middle of the day; to truly experience the wonders of the Gir
forest, and hopefully see a wide variety of its diverse wildlife, three or four days is
recommended, particularly with a knowledgeable guide. This will vastly improve the depth of
your visit. Contact the Park for information about hiring a guide (phone number below.)

While Gir is most famous for its lions, the park is one of the most diverse places in Gujarat,
both in flora and fauna.
Flora
Most of the area is rugged hills, with high ridges and densely forested valleys, wide grassland
plateaus, and isolated hilltops. Around half of the forested area of the park is teak forest, with
other trees such as khair, dhavdo, timru, amla, and many others. The other half is non-teak
forest, with samai, simal, khakhro and asundro jambu, umro, amli, vad and kalam; mostly
broadleaf and evergreen trees. The river Hiran is the only one to flow year-round; the rest are
seasonal. There are also areas of the park with open scrub and savannah-type grassland.

Deer and Antelope

This variety of vegetation provides for a huge array of animals. The most-sighted animal in
the park, the chital, or Indian spotted deer, inhabits the dry and mixed deciduous forest, with
a population of over 32,000. The more reclusive sambar, the largest of the Indian deer
species, weighing 300-500 kg, lives in the wetter western part of the park. Both the sambar
and the chausingha, the world's only 4-horned antelope (chau= four, singha= horns), are very
dependent on water, and rarely found far from a water source. Another one-of-a-kind is the
chinkara, the only gazelle in the world with horns in both males and females. The fastest of
the Indian antelopes, the blackbuck, also lives in Gir, but has a relatively small population
here compared to Velavadar National Park (near Bhavnagar), as it prefers open grasslands to
forests.

Wild Cats
Along with the famous lions, who number around 350, the park is also home to four other
wild cats. There are around 300 leopards, though they are nocturnal and thus harder to spot.
Of the three smaller wildcats, the jungle cat is the most widespread, and lives in deciduous
scrub and riverine areas. The mysterious desert cat is almost never seen. The rusty spotted
cat, previously thought to only live in the Dangs of southeast Gujarat, has only recently been
found in Gir.

Other animals and reptiles

The top and middle canopies of the dry, mixed and riverine decidous forests are home to
troops of hanuman langur monkeys. The striped hyena is usually seen scavenging alone in the
grasslands and scrub forest, far more solitary than the African hyena. Wild boars rooting into
the ground for tuber provide aeration of the soil. If you look closer, you may see smaller
mammals like pangolins, pale hedgehogs, Indian hares, or grey musk shrews. The ratel or
honey badger is renowned for its snake-killing exploits, earning it the “most fearless animal”
title in the Guinness Book of World Records. Another snake-killer in Gir is the ruddy
mongoose; the snakes they contend with include the common krait, russell’s viper, and the
saw-scaled viper. The Kamaleshwar reservoir now houses the largest population of marsh
crocodiles in the country. Other reptiles include the soft-shelled turtle, star tortoise, Indian
rock python and monitor lizard (which grows to over 1.5 m long; don’t look for the lizards
that live in your yard.)

Birds
Gir is also home to more kinds of birds than any other park in Gujarat, yet somehow is not
known for its birdlife. While it may not have the half-million flamingoes found in Kutch
during breeding season, Gir is home to over 300 species of birds, many of which can be seen
year-round, from the Malabar whistling thrush to the Paradise flycatcher, from the crested
serpent eagle to the king vulture, from pelicans to painted storks. The noted ornithologist Dr.
Salim Ali said that if there were no lions here, Gir would be well-known as one of the best
bird sanctuaries in western India.
The Asiatic Lion
Until the early 19th century, Asiatic lions roamed an immense area of South and Southwest
Asia, as far east as Greece and as far west as modern Bangladesh. As humanity has lived in
this region for millennia, people coexisted with lions for thousands of years, but in the last
few centuries, the growth of the human population has come at the cost of the lions’
habitat. Like the Bengal Tiger and the Asiatic Cheetah, lions saw a dramatic decline in
population as their preferred habitat of grasslands and semi-forested areas became overrun
with humans. Beyond just habitat reduction, though, once guns arrived and became
widespread, from 1800-1860, nearly all the lions remaining outside Gujarat were hunted and
killed. The last Asiatic lions in India outside of Gir forest were killed in 1886 at Rewah, and
the last wild lion sighted the world outside Gir was in Iran in 1941.

In 1901, Lord Curzon was offered to be taken lion hunting while visiting Junagadh. Noting
that these were the only lions left in Asia, he declined, and reportedly suggested to the Nawab
of Junagadh that it would be better to conserve the lion population than to hunt it. The
Nawab began what was probably the first institutional wildlife conservation effort in India
and one of the earliest in the world (though various human societies have been operating in
ways that conserve wildlife throughout the ages), banning all lion hunting entirely. From a
population reported to be as low as 20 in 1913 (considered exaggerated by some wildlife
experts, noting that the first official census in the 1930s found over 200 lions), the lions have
rebounded to now number 359 in the most recent census of 2005. This is due almost entirely
to the Nawab’s conservation efforts, and the Indian Government’s post-independence ban on
lion killing in 1955.

Though the lions have maintained a small healthy population, their habitat continues to
shrink, and they remain a critically endangered species. The Gir forest area, which covered
over 3000 square km in 1880, was reduced to just over 2500 square km by the mid-20th
century, and only 1400 square km today. Of that, a mere 258 square km make up the
National Park itself. While the population has grown due to successful conservation
programs in the park, the park is too small for the number of lions it now houses, and lions
are straying outside to seek further living space, often not surviving well in the other areas.

Locally called sher or sinh, the Asiatic lion is over two and a half meters long, weighs 115 to
200 kg, and can run short distances at 65 km/h to chase down the sambar, chital, nilgai, and
chinkara that are its preferred prey. However, when not hungry, it will never attack an
animal; after a lion makes a kill, it will gorge itself on up to 75 kg of meat, and then not
worry about eating for a few days, so it is not unusual to see a well-fed lion lounging calmly
beside a herd of grazing deer. The lions prefer open scrub and deciduous forest areas, and are
very bold, not shy around humans. So even if they seem tame or timid, do not approach
them, they are still very powerful wild animals.

Humans and Gir

Humans’ relationship with Gir is long and mixed. The very existence of a sanctuary is
testament to the dire need of a protected area, given the rapid expanse of civilization that has
completely taken over everywhere else around (see above section on the lion.) After India’s
independence in 1947, the rapid push for food independence led much wild grassland to be
converted to agriculture. This had major effects on the wildlife of Saurashtra, but also on the
human population; as large-scale farming spread across the region, those peoples who
traditionally herded livestock in wild grasslands were pushed further and further into much
more limited regions. Faced with this situation, the Maldhari community migrated into the
Gir forest despite obvious dangers and a total lack of infrastructure, in order to maintain their
way of life. When the park was declared, they were allowed to remain and continue their
traditional practices; in fact, Gir forest is now virtually the only area where the Maldharis still
live as they wish.

As herders, they shepherd their cattle and buffalo around the park, which opponents
(including the Forest Department) claim overgrazes the area and makes it harder for the wild
deer, antelope, and other species to graze as well. However, recent studies have shown that
between 25 and 50% of the Gir lions’ diet is made up of Maldhari livestock, meaning that the
presence of the Maldharis is vital to the survival of the lions. In fact, the Maldharis apparently
consider livestock lost to predators as payment for living in their territory. Furthermore, as
vegetarians, the Maldharis are never poachers.

Compare this attitude with that of farmers near the park, who have killed many lions who
they say "encroached on their land," not realizing that they have in fact encroached on the
lions' land, and the lions of course cannot know where people have drawn the park boundary
line. The humans who do know this, however, often graze cattle illegally inside the park
adding further pressure on the ecosystem from the 97 villages within 5 km of the park. For
these reasons and many others, the Gir forest and the critically endangered lions are under
increasing threat from human activity.

Tourism itself is a growing threat to Gir. Clearly, the genuine visitor is beneficial, but tens of
thousands of people visit the park every year simply as an afterthought to their trip to
Somnath or Junagadh, stopping in for a few hours to snap a photograph of the lions in
captivity. These visitors create a huge demand for infrastructure but do little of benefit to the
park or the lions, not even staying long enough to really experience it or learn much at all.
The presence of several temples inside the park also puts strain on the ecosystem, as visitors
to them also demand accommodation and infrastructure that often conflicts with the park’s
conservation goals, leading to great controversy and political tension between park
management and temple management.

While all of these threats may have distinct immediate origins, they are in fact all the result of
having reached a point where wild natural environments are confined to extremely limited
areas, and human civilization, industry and economy has overtaken everything else. The
problem is not, in fact, that the lion population has grown “too big for the park,” but that the
park is far too small for the lions. As a visitor, let this be an opportunity to spark your
imagination on the question of shifting the priorities of humanity towards re-integrating
ourselves with the rest of life.

For shorter visits, the Gir Interpretation Zone, at Devalia, 12 km west of Sasan Gir, has some
lions in captivity, but this is not the same as visiting them in the wild. After all, to see a lion
in captivity you can visit a local zoo; come to Gir to see them in the wild. Entry fees for the
Interpretation Centre (different from the park itself) are, for Indians Rs. 75/- Mon.-Fri,
Rs.95/- Sat.-Sun, Rs. 115/- on Holidays and for foreigners US$20, payable only in rupees.

Use official guides.

 Do not rouse, feed, or disturb wildlife

 No smoking whatsoever (cigarette butts cause many forest fires.)
  No flash or intrusive photography (for example, don’t pluck leaves to clear a better view;
reposition the camera instead.)
 Picking plants or insects prohibited; do not remove anything from the park
 No walking or hiking allowed in the park, for safety; always travel in vehicles, preferably with
a guide.
 No quick or sudden movements to scare off wildlife.
 No pets.
 No littering. Trash is only to be disposed of in proper receptacles.
 No picnicking or camping, use only designated areas.
 No hunting devices or other weapons.
 Carry lots of water.
 Carry field guides to learn about your surroundings.

25. Thol Lake Bird Sanctuary

Hub(s) : Ahmedabad Metro

General

Thol lake bird sanctuary is a shallow freshwater body surrounded by marshes on the edge and
scrubby forest embarking the sides. The lake sanctuary covering an area of 7 square kilometers
was declared officially in 1988 and is also known by the name of Thol Bird Sanctuary.

The shallow water reservoir speckled with reed beds gives it a distinct ambience while being
an ideal dwelling for varied species of birds and insects. The agricultural land surrounding the
lake provide ample amount of food for quite a number of birds while the hydrological
ecosystem takes care of the others. One gets overwhelmed with flocks of bird flying together
and crating graphical patterns on the sky while long-legged elongated necked cranes keep
stalking for fishes and small insects. The still and serene ambience of the locale gets
melodiously symphonized with the echoing of thousands birds and illustrated by the varied
movements of these spirited creatures.

A visual treat for any tourist and a treasurable experience for a bird watcher or ornithologists,
this place is home to more than 100 species of birds. Cranes, geese, flamingoes, pelicans,
egrets, herons, spoonbills, ducks, whistling teals and many other migratory birds nest and breed
in the lap of this natures exuberance. The most commonly noticed Indian Saras Crane with its
long bare legs, elongated head and red head gracefully pecks insects while walking around the
lake with dance like movements. This bird which flaunts the status of being the tallest flying
bird on earth is often see in pairs and has over centuries inspired poets and artists with its
elegance and beauty.

Things to do

Post rains in between and during the beginning of November to February a drive down to the
Thol Lake is an ideal way to be away from the maddening rush of the city life. While driving
to the lake, keep a watch for the variety of birds which populate the pools and canals on the
way. Toddle around the lake while you get acquainted to large and small, textured and plain,
and their mesmerizing concord of sounds.
 The place is worth spending an entire day capturing the different movements and behavior of
the birds in alliance with nature.

Background

A surprisingly varied species of beautiful and rare birds can be sighted at this 7 km man-made
lake sanctuary. It is a shallow water body surrounded by marshes on the edge and scrubby
forest embarking on the sides.

This is a sanctuary loved by birds because of the abundance of food it can gather from
the agricultural land surrounding the lake. The shallow water reservoir dotted with reed beds
not only give a unique ambience but an ideal dwelling to many types of birds and insects. Huge
flocks of birds draw large geometrical patterns on the sky and when they are grounded they
form a milling winged mob teeming at the seams.

Saras Crane and other birds with long necks and elongated necks prey on fishes and small
insects in the water and the marshes. The area sometimes is echoed with the orchestra provided
by thousands of birds making their own unique calls and sounds, but all seem to synchronize
with ease, instead of being a noise.

Geese, flamingoes, pelicans, egrets, herons, spoonbills, ducks, whistling teals and many
other migratory birds nest and breed in the lap of nature’s exuberance, creating magical
experiences for all kinds of birders and keen avian photographers.
Look out for: Flamingoes, Pelicans, Egrets, Herons, Spoonbills and Whistling Teals
Be one of few to record: Egyptian Vultures and Saras Crane (world’s tallest flying bird)
Seasons: Winter

26. Vadnagar

Hub(s): North Gujarat (Ahmedabad)

General: As you wander through the streets of Vadnagar, your experience of time may no
longer be linear, as eras merge and cycles connect. You may sense 4500 hundred years of
history trapped in the pottery fragments, textiles, ornaments and tools left behind by the
agricultural communities that had settled here.

You may touch the traces of the 12th century, wedged between the interlocking stones of the
step embankments around the lake or carved in the torans left behind by the Solanki dynasty.
You may hear the echoes of glory of bhavai folk theater in the Government Museum, and if
fortunate, even catch an impromptu performance in the streets. Also etched in Vadnagar's
memory are two of Gujarat's greatest poets, Dayaram and Narsinh Mehta, famous novelists
like Govardhanram Tripathi, foremost musicians like Kaumudi Munshi, and innumerable other
artists and performers. Out of this soil that nurtured such creativity emerged the Tana Riri
Music Festival, to pay homage to the Nagar Brahmin sisters Tana and Riri and their
unforgettable sacrifice.

The presence Buddhist has also got surfaced with a sand stone broken head of Buddha. This
should be belonging to 2nd century AD which is depicting a scene of a monkey offering honey
to Buddha, black polished ware-shreds inscribed with Brahmi legeneds like Devshririshi,
Shakasya and Dhamma. These have been founded from the Monastery at Vadnagar. The
 Buddhist Monastery which got surfaced within the fortified area of Vadnagar, had two votive
stupas and open central courtyard around which initially nine cells were constructed. This
arrangement of cells around the central courtyard makes a pattern like Swastika.

27. Vansda National Park

Hub(s) : Surat

General

With trees reaching a height of 120 ft. the forests of Vansda are dense and varied. With the rain
gods being generous (over 2,000 mm rainfall), parts of the Park have moist deciduous forest
with kaatas bamboo. Dry deciduous forest occurring in other areas has 'manvel' bamboo and
adds to the diversity of habitats.

The variety of plants (over 450 species) keeps our eyes searching for more and leaves us content
at the end of the day. Beautiful Orchids are a sight to behold thanks to their dainty and pretty
flowers. Even a rotting log is decorated with ferns and mushrooms. The 'bracket fungus' on
logs and tree trunks will definitely catch your attention. You may also come across a wild
relative of the banana plant.

Beauty is in the eyes of the beholder, but in Vansda it's everywhere in different forms. Small
creatures with their amazing diversity are the real treasures. Among these are over 60 species
of butterflies and 121 species of spiders. The largest of the spiders of Gujarat - the Giant wood
spider is common here. In fact, recently 8 new species of spiders were reported from Vansda.
A trip here means getting lost in observing myriads of insects, centipedes, millipedes and snails.
And to stop you in your tracks are the elusive snakes of which there are over 30 species. About
11 types of frogs and toads ensure that the snakes continue to thrive here.

For the bird-watcher too there are 115 species of birds including those found only in the
Western Ghats like the Great Black Woodpecker, Malabar Trogon, Shama and Emerald Dove.
Other noteworthy avian wonders include the Grey Hornbill, Racket-Tailed Drongo, Paradise
Flycatcher, Leaf birds, Thrushes and Sunbirds. Although Vansda has lost the Tiger, Wild Dog,
Otter, Sambar and Sloth bear; it still boasts a good diversity of mammals such as the Leopard,
Hyena, Jungle Cat, Civets, Mongooses, Macaques, Barking Deer, Four-horned antelopes and
the only herd of Spotted Deer in this part of the State.

Visitors must get permission a few days in advance, and it is advisable to call before you make
the journey to make sure that the park is not closed due to bad weather and road conditions.
There is no camping allowed.

Background

You crane your neck to see the tops of the towering trees, the teak perhaps flowering, the
bamboo brakes aplenty. The canopy is so thick you find parts of the forest in darkness, and are
amazed to remember you are still in Gujarat, so lush and dense is the world around you. You
see wild mango groves, perhaps even a wild relative of the banana plant, and weaving in
between are gigantic creepers. You check abashedly behind you for dinosaurs. You stop short
so as to not scare away the beautiful butterfly that has landed in front of you, and as it flies
away, you are distracted and crouch, like a child, to watch a colorful centipede scurry its fuzzy
way along. You begin to notice not only the giant trees but also the tiny creatures that fit
between the cracks in the bark. Soon even the ferns and mushrooms on a rotting log seem like
ornate decoration. You are surprised by an expanse of the Bharadi grasslands tucked away east
of the center of the park. And at the Ambika river, you are enchanted by the varieties of orchids,
delicate and colorful.

And since you've fallen in love with Vansda, you decide to spend a night deep in the forest and
learn more about it from the Kilad Nature Education Campsite. After an evening campfire and
a morning guided tour, you now walk around with even bigger eyes and ears, noticing not only
the creatures that you do see, but the tracks and droppings and song that tell you about the
creatures that you don't.

The 24 square km of this national park lie at the east end of the Navsari district in South Gujarat.
It forms a continuous tract with both the forests of Valsad district to the south, and the forests
in the Dangs to the east, which provide better access than from the Navsari side, so it is
managed by the South Dangs Forest Division. It used to belong to the King of Vansda until he
gave it to the state. It was declared as a protected area in April 1979, and we are fortunate that
there has not been tree felling since as early as 1952.

The terrain here is flat in parts and undulating in others, and is drained by the river Ambika
into the sea near Navsari. The park borders land developed by the Revenue Department on the
southwest, and by the Ambika along the northeast. The area that surrounds the park marks the
northern and western limits of the Western Ghats, also known as the Sahyadris.

The rain gods of these parts are generous, sending over 2,000 mm of average rainfall a year,
which keeps the forest lush. Parts of it are so dense that they are dark even during the day. The
thick canopy is most easily recognizable by its tall teak and bamboo, with some trees reaching
a height of 120 ft. Most parts are moist deciduous forest, with kaatas bamboo, but some parts
are dry deciduous forest and have manvel bamboo. Just southeast of the center of the park there
are also the Bharadi grasslands. Vansda Park cradles 450 species of plants, and including the
bamboo and teak, 443 species of these are flowering plants, such as adad, dudhkod, khakhro,
timru, haldu, chopadi, bondaro, shimlo, and ambla. The northeastern side of the park where the
Ambika winds its way through is home to many varieties of orchids.

Vansda lost the tiger, wild dog, otter, sambar, and sloth bear, but is still home to a diversity of
mammals, including the leopard, hyena, chital, chausinga, jungle cat, common palm civet,
small Indian civet, mongoose, macaque, rhesus macaque, barking deer, wild boar, hanuman
langur, Indian porcupine, flying squirrel, Indian flying fox, pangolin, rusty-spotted cats, as well
as the endangered great Indian squirrel.

There is also an abundance of pythons and 30 other species of snakes, including venomous
ones like Russel's viper, cobras, kraits. Along with an entertaining variety of insects,
centipedes, millipedes, and snails, there are 121 species of spiders, including the largest in
Gujarat, the giant wood spider, and 8 new species of spiders were recently reported. There are
about 11 types of frogs and toads to keep the snakes well-fed.

More than the mammals, reptiles, and insects, however, the main draw of Vansda is for bird-
watchers for more than 115 species of birds, including the racket-tailed drongo, paradise
flycatcher, pompodour pidgeon, grey hornbill, jungle babbler, yellow back sunbird, leaf birds,
thrushes, peafowls, as well as the globally threatened forest spotted owlet, and birds found only
in the Western Ghats, like the indian great black woodpecker, malabar trogon, shama, emerald
dove.

There are various adivasi settlements in Vansda from the Dangi tribes, which are made up of
the Bhils, Kunbi, Warli, Chowdry, Gamit, Bhoi, and Kukna. The tribal belt of Gujarat,
especially in the Dangs, has been influenced strongly over the last few decades by Christian
and Hindu missionaries. Many of the unique features of each of the tribes has been assimilated
into the dominant cultures. Places in this area that are sacred to adivasis are now being adopted
and ascribed religious importance by Hindu leaders. As modernization happens with increasing
speed, traditional ways of life are abandoned in favor of monetary activities, which implies
using forest resources to make forest products, resulting in a less dense forest area. As a visitor,
it is useful and interesting to learn about these tensions, and especially about the impact of one's
own visit to the area.

Tips

 The best time to visit is from the post-monsoon season to winter, when the forest is at its
most lush and the streams are full.
 You will most likely see more birds and plant-life than wild animals, but if you keep your eyes
sharp, especially if you have some experience, look out for tracks and droppings through
which to learn about the lives of the animals.
 Ahwa, 28 km away, has more facilities. Saputara also has comfortable facilities and is often
used as a base to explore the area, but is 60 km away. In Waghai, the nearest town to the
park, 4 km away, the facilities are more basic, but also more charming, and can serve as an
appealing alternative base.

Interesting facts

a thick canopy making the ground dark even during mid-day is a unique aspect of these
forests unlike the other forests in Gujarat. The generous rainfall has aided the growth of teak
and bamboo growth creating the cool shadows. Vansda Park in fact is a fertile ground for over
450 species of plants of which 443 are flowering plants.

Wild animals such as tiger, wild dog, otter, sloth bear and sambar used to abound in Vansda
but sadly they are almost completely absent now. Instead, leopard, hyena, chital, chausinga,
jungle cat, common palm civet, mongoose, macaque, barking deer, wild boar, langur,
porcupine, flying squirrel, flying fox, pangolin, rusty-spotted cast are all found in Vansda now.

However, the main draw at Vansda is its birds. This bird watchers paradise showcases 115
species of birds, including the racket-tailed drongo, paradise flycatcher, pompadour pigeon,
grey hornbill,jungle babbler, yellow back sunbird, leaf birds, thrushes, peafowls, as well as the
globally threatened forest spotted owlet, and birds found only in the Western Ghats, like the
Indian great black woodpecker, Malabar trogon, shama, emerald dove.

Look out for: Racket-Tailed Drongo, Paradise Flycatcher, Pompadour Pigeon, Grey Hornbill,
Jungle Babbler and Yellow Back Sunbird

Be one of few to record: Indian Pitta

Seasons: Pre-monsoon to winter
 Recommended time in the field: 2 Days
Accommodation: Waghai 4km, Ahwa 28km and Saputara 60km
Other attractions: Waghai Botanical Garden, Gira Falls and Shiv Ghat

28. Wild Ass Sanctuary

Hub(s): Kutch
""A fiat, salt-cracked vast barren desert, hissing sand storms and the majestic Ghudkhar
roaming over mirage waters make the little rann of Kachchh an unique and one of the most
fascinating wilderness of the world. The Sanctuary was established in 1973 covering entire
little rann and waste lands of bordering five districts with an area of 4953 Sq. KM. The rann
was a shallow part of the Gulf of Kachchh earlier. It is formed through the process of siltation
of marine estuary. During monsoon, the discharge of river and rain waters together with sea
water blown up due to south west winds, the rann becomes a vast shallow sheet of water which
dries up by October, November leaving a flat surface to provide super highway for vehicles.

Locally known as 'Ghud Khar' was once common in the North-western India. West Pakistan
and South Iran. They are now found only in the Rann of Kachchh of Gujarat State. The Wild
Ass falls in Family Equide which includes Horses, Zibras and Donkeys.

Indian Wild Ass is one of the sturdiest animals in the world, withstanding scorching midday
temperatures unto 45° C or more without any shelter in midst of the desert and facing long
periods of drought as well as other calamities with relative ease, where others cannot survive.
It has strength and speed of a horse and can run at speeds of 60 to 70 Km/hr. A mature beast
stands 120 cms. in height and 210 cms. in length, weighing about 230 kgs. It possesses a shiny
white coat with greyish-brown patches and a black or brown hairy stripe in the centre enhancing
its beauty. They move about either singly or in herds (10 to 30) in search of fodder and sweet
water, resting only in hot afternoon hours. They eat what they get, generally scrubby grass and
pods of prosopis.

The best time to visit the sanctuary is very early in the morning. Excursions by jeep at specific
times in the morning and evening are available from Dhrangadhra, Patadi or Zainabad (near
Viramgam railway station). There are also private jeeps for hire from any of these places. You
can also use buses or inter-city jeeps traveling from Dhrangadhra to Patadi to reach Range
Bajana gate. Whatever your transport, hiring a knowledgeable guide is highly recommended.

The Rann Riders Resort in Dasada organizes safaris to the Sanctuary by jeep or camel,
specializing in birdwatching during the winter season. Contact Muzahid Malik at
+919879786006 for more information. The Royal Safari Camp in Bajana also organizes safaris
to the Sanctuary by jeeps. Contact: 079-65418951, +919925200657 for more
information.Desert Coursers, in Zainabad, also offers excursions into the Sanctuary, based out
of its unique camp of traditional Bajania kooba houses, acquainting visitors not just with the
local wildlife but also the local human history and rural traditions.

In order to truly experience the Rann, an excursion of more than one day is strongly
recommended. Wildlife is not a packaged event; you can visit the Taj Mahal for an hour and
say you've seen it, but a living ecosystem is another matter. Animals must be sought out, are
often reclusive, and are not necessarily where you expect them to be. Plus, the huge variety of
wildlife here cannot possibly be experienced in a short period. Spending at least one night
camped on the Rann will dramatically increase how much you connect with the landscape and
its inhabitants; settling into camp in the late evening and watching the desert stars appear at
night is an experience not likely to be forgotten.