Fancy yarns

Fancy yarns whose appearance differs significantly from that of a simple yarn
due to irregularities deliberately produced during their formation are called fancy
yarns.

PRODUCTION METHODS OF FANCY YARNS

• Most fancy yarns are produced by specialist fancy spinners, using machines modified or
developed for the purpose.
• Others are produced from
• ‘Fancy slivers’, which are used as minor components in yarns made by spinners using
normal equipment.
• Still others are made exclusively from continuous filament, using adaptations or
extensions of the air jet texturing process.
• Finally, it is also possible to produce an appearance that resembles some of the effects
produced by incorporating slub yarns in a woven fabric,
• Without the expense in materials incurred by the use of the yarns themselves.
USES OF FANCY YARNS
• Ladies dress material
• Men's suiting
• Slippers and sandals
• ties
• Scarves
• Belts
• Knitted wears
Furnishing fabrics such as
 Curtains
 Cushion covers
 Table cloths
 Wall hangings

1. Single Yarn

It has one strand and is the simplest type.  It is the product of the first twisting
operation that is performed by the spinning machine.  These simple single yarns
require no additional processing once the individual yarns have been formed. 

Tweed

Flecks of color from short fibers are twisted into the yarn special interest.   The
cohesiveness of wool fibers explains why tweeds are often made of wool.  It is found
in apparel, upholstery and draperies.
Slub yarn
Most slub yarns are single yarns produced
by uneven twisting.  At intervals, the twist
in the yarn is reduced to produce a soft
bulky area. 

Varying the amount of materials or twists in the yarn at regular or random intervals,
this makes this thick-and-thin yarn.  Slub yarns can be found in shantung, drapery,
and upholstery fabrics as well as in hand knitting yarns and sweaters. Some of the
rayon and polyester yarns make to resemble linen.

2. Ply Yarn
 
There are two plies in the fancy yarns.  One ply may be of one color whereas the
other of a different color.  The plies may be of differing thickness.  A two-ply fancy
yarn may have one spun ply combined with a filament ply.  Frequently a fancy yarn
in ply will have three basic parts:
1. the ground, or foundation or core
2. the effect or fancy
3. the binder
Marl Yarn

• A marl yarn is one in which two yarns of

• The same count and twist, but of different colours, are folded together to
• Form a balanced yarn

Ratine
The effect ply is twisted in a
somewhat spiral arrangement
around the ground ply.  At intervals,
a longer loop is thrown out, kinks
back on itself, and is held in place
by the binder.

Spiral

The spiral yarns are produced from

two piles. Each of which may vary in
color, count and twist.  A spiral yarn
has a fine, hard-twists as its core;
this is wrapped with a coarse,
loosely twisted ply.
 Knot
This can be achieved by twisting the effect ply many times in the  same place makes
it.  Two effect plies of different colors may be used and the knots arranged so the
colored spots are alternated along the length of yarn.  A binder is added during the
twisting operation.

Snarl

The effect ply forms by

alternating unclosed loops along
both sides of the yarn.

Boucle

It is characterized by tight loops

projecting from the body of the
yarn at fairly regular intervals.  

Some boucle yarns are made by air-jet texturing, but most are three-ply
constructions. The three parts of the yarn are the core, the effect, and the tie, or
binder.
The effect yarn that produces the loops is wrapped around a core, or base yarn, and
then the third ply, or binder, is wrapped over the effect ply to hold the loops in place. 
The individual plies may be filament or spun yarns.  Their characteristics determine
the ultimate design effect.

Chenille
True chenille yarns are produced from a
woven leno fabric’s structure that is slit
into narrow, warpwise strips to serve as
yarn.

They are pile yarns; the pile length may be uniform throughout the length of the yarn,
or it may vary in length to produce a yarn of irregular dimensions. They are used in
furnishings and apparel.

CLOUD OR GRANDRELLE YARN

• The two threads of different colours used to create the yarn are manipulated in
such a manner that each thread alternately forms the base and cover to ‘cloud’
the opposing thread.
• It is made by alternate fast and slow deliveries from two pairs of rollers.
• Because the yarns alternate in forming the base yarn, no dedicated core yarn is
required.
They are used to add color effects and are found in suiting, coating, shirting and
home furnishing fabrics.

METALLIC

It has been used for thousands of years. 

Metallic yarns may be monofilament fibers
or combined in ply yarns.  Two processes
are now used to produce metallic yarns.  

The laminating process seals a layer of aluminum between two layers of acetate or
polyester film, which is then cut into strips for yarns.  The film may be colorless, so
the aluminum foils shows through, or the film and/or the adhesive may be colored
before the laminating process.  The metallizing process vaporizes the aluminum
under high pressure and deposits it on the polyester film.

DIAMOND YARN
 • A diamond yarn is made by folding a thick single yarn or roving with a fine yarn or
filament of contrasting colour using S-twist, and cabling it with a similar fine yarn
using Z-twist.
• Multi-fold or ‘cabled’ yarns may be produced by extending and varying this technique,
to produce a wide range of effects.

SEED AND SPLASH

Several authorities classify seed and splash yarns as nub or knot yarns.  However,
there are some differences.  While a nub yarn has an enlarged segment, the splash
yarn has an elongated segment that is somewhat longer and thinner than that of the
nub yarn; and seed yarn had a much smaller enlarged area than either a nub or
splash yarns.

CORKSCREW

Corkscrew looks similar to the spiral yarn.  It is

formed by twisting two piles that differ in size
together, type or twist makes it.  These two parts
may be delivered to the twister at different rates
of speed.  These yarns are used in furnishings
and apparel. 

Nub

It is very similar to the knot yarn.  It is also

made by twisting the effect ply many times
in same place.  

Two effect plies of different colors may be used and the knots arranged so the
colored spots alternate along the length of the yarns.  A binder is added during the
twisting operation.  These yarns are used in apparel and furnishings.

Loop

Loop yarn looks like boucle

yarn.  It has closed loops at
regular intervals along the
yarn.  
These yarns are used in fabrics to create a looped pile that resembles caracul
lambskin and is called astrakhan cloth. They are also used to give textured effects to
other fabrics.  Mohair, rayon and acetate are often used for the effect ply.  These
yarns are used in apparel and furnishings.

Gimp

It is similar to ratine yarn.  The effect ply of

the yarn is twisted in a somewhat spiral
arrangement around the ground ply.

At intervals, a longer loop is thrown out, kinks back on itself, and is held in place by
the binder.  These yarns are used primarily furnishings.