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Also rtool BI.C'k.·..C"1lI)ublishin;:

."('/rk Pall('n, CUlllnlfi)r ,'/I"II~II'4'{J1'
n"an fJ)ll10~
\\'Inlfred Aldrich
06)20.11) 7
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063203917;
Pall"" Cilltillg/or 1I(.1III(ln'$ 'failored Jo&' e ts
\\~inirrNAldrich
o 632 04024 6
Fa:sbiM Sour« Book
K3lhryn ~icKt.I\'C)·
06)2 0399) 0
FmIIitM ~sign
Kathryn ~1('Kel\'C)'and Jnniuc Mundow
0632 o;m;
IlluuflJIlnt fudllol'
K.th,)11 ~f('Kf:I\'e)' find J;'Ininc r..-I\.n'l:lo"
06320.024 6
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I>.ntd T)'kr
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Intn'KIunkm I() Ciolflllft ,'ffIJ1Ufi,c'IUI'('
GcrT)' Cooklin
063202661 S
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SI:CO!"D IDITIO:O:
Edit~ b)' ~ilkeEasey
06)2 0;199 X
1I11tNntmrdtlfl II,sIJ"()/I
I:ltZllbc'th RoU5c:
0632 018917
FdJ4hNf Ikllgn and I'I'(NIIIC'I O(!I'i'ltJp"IClnl
l'at'Okl Carr and John l:>Onltl'OY
06)2 0289)9
1a,J,1Q#t8u,,,tg
1'C'kn GO"III'Orc'k
06)2 OSss.a 7
METRIC PATTERN
CUTTING
Fourth Edition

WINIFRED ALDRICH

.,. Blackwell
..." Publishing
 textilestudycenter.com

C \\'illifral Alclrieh1976. "79. 19S2. 19t15.1989. 19)0. 199-1. Libra') of ("Ol\(ltnS Callt~ing·i,,·Publical_ I);a;t;lI is
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C:.tlCOII.\ "-",or,,, Wj3. ""'I~Hjj
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Tk .1 oIlhr Autbor leibe:- Idc..IUi~-da, 'he Author c( lho A catalo,UC' fC'C'Urd (ur th", tltk i, m.ubblc (rum I_
"'M W bc'cR .~"cd in lIo;onJal~ with the Cop)'nf:hl. Bnt ish Librn I)'
DrtSIpt •• d P"a,tzn. An 1988,
Sc1 ,n 9.25 tln Ilrt Tinle' NR~IT
AI nPtJ ~oed. No part or lhis publiC'.llionm:.y be by SSP 8cst·;iC1T),pe:s('Itcr Ltd••Hon, Koa,
~utcd. stotnl illl a ~lr~'al.systclI'l.
011mlUtnittcd. in. • ..,. Priotrd aDd bou~d in Grear UOt;,aia
fOn:n. Of b)' ~ IUe:l:n~clectfOnk·, lnechanil.-.II. pbotocop)'lnI- by CPJ Iblb
lI('('O(di:ll, or Olb¢n..·isc.e.wc:pt :I~rcrn1itt<d b)' ,be: 1,;K
COP)riPt. ~ 11.00Pllt~'fItsACt 1988.• 'jthoul t.M prior 11K publitht't's polk)' is 10 uSC'pum:in<1lt Il'Ip:t (l'OIIt milk
pam_ oIlhC' pubfi"ber. WI openllte a "tI$lllin:llblemm1ry polq,:t.nd .. !uda
Nt, b«n ll~llnuf~(IIIf<'d rrom JI'Ilp p~ ~ »rid·rtC'('
rll'5l publQed in G~"I 8rilain In 1976b) ~hlls&I a.o.oo WI. 'nd rkmn'ltlll')'('hl'Irinc·fn:c flr.tclKn.Furl~ t.k
lD 19'11by BC'U.t 1I)'mlln I.ld, lind in 1981 b)' (Ja.,n 11>__ publisher C"nwrt',SIhlll the le:\1 p:lpcl lind 4"O\'ft bovd alft!
Lid ""~ mC1ll«lrJ"tlIWc(1l\'ironnl(nt..lll«~il~ ~nk
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RC"I'Jo<'dC'ddton 1'82. t"Cpinted 1983. 19l1A For (ufth« In!'Qnnllli(lo 1.)0 8IaC"III,\:,11
P\tbb'lohlllJ., .. _r
Rnl10Cd cdnion 108S. rCJlflnted 19$6, 19S7. 1988 it,,"icc;'lm. _~b\lte~
'9'10 .... '" bI_LIII'('III)uhh;hl'\jl.cl)'~'
RtpruM<d b) 11"I'ltrCot1ln~ l'llblj~hct"I 1991
Rtpnott'd t, HLtcl,;.'t1i Selentifle1~lbU.:.. tlon~ 1992, 199)
nW'd C'dlUoe t994
RtpnMai b) 8b1t.... '(:UStietllX Ltd 1994, 1')9'
Rnlted cdrhon 1997, rcpintcd 199tt, 19'J9
foIIn" cdl1fQ112004

1 'IIrCIUId like 10llunl.:

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n.c "nihil SuDdllld\ II1\tll11ll1)tt(IIr Il\tir In(orm;atlOftOft dw- (_""' "'C d""l,ttllt~.tt or ....~.Incn\ III"'
"J'h,t SATRA (OOI_C.lt1'«hllol,'I) C<III~(or ,twl' 'MorIUl"
n.c (oItowo'l\I ptopk end ~(lflll'l:lIlle~....·1\0 ,,,JItII...:d Intunul", ....s rbotor:nlph). (c.r the chllplcr un C"n'flUh:r.A..w llrnIf.
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 CONTENTS

Introduction 4
Pattern Cutting and I).sign 5
"ubrics 6

Part One: Classic Form Cutting

(CII/Ilng 1(1erell/f" .f/rapl'lor tlns fi'",flle fig11rc)
The Basic Darted Bodice Blocks 7
2 From Block to Pattern 29
J Basic Adaptations or the Bodice Blocks 35
4 Sleeve Adapuuions 47
5 Constructing Cottars 67
6 The Basic Filled Skirt Block and Adaptations 77
7 Fitted Trouser Blocks lind Adaptations 97
S Complex Ad',plfltions of the Bodice Blocks: Dresse« Jackets Coats 107

Part Two: Flat Cutting

(C'""i"g jllil sJ1ttpes lor I"lISII(11 (111'/ i(lrse)' ~<lrl"'·"I.,)
9 Easy Fitting Gurments (woven fubri",,) 127
10 Ea.) Filling Garments (jersey and knitted fabrics) 143
11 Close Fitting Garments (stretch nnd jcDC)' fabrics) ISS

Part Three: Size and Fit

12 Basic Grading Techniques 163
13 Drafting Blocks und 17itling for Indi, Idual Figures 169

Part Four: Computer-Aided Design

14 Compurer-Gencrnted Design and Pauern M.kinl! 183

APP""di. 197

199

4
fNTRODUCTION
~1'It'd [dillon ZtHM l'lu~ Ihird Ina_jorr(\I)lon ()(
Ib( oripn.1 boot. \I. '1111:1\
In 1915. ((Inl.l,n, trw to II~
oMJ,lfl,\1Wn«PI. II on'crcd 1.1 tllllG-('or If,met b.;1~
~u. In Inlfo(l\l(llj)l1 to the b.I\ic; princlpk~ f)(
p.tncm ("Ullin, .tHJ ~\'( II few c"ampk'S "r \h(lt
application uno golrnltnljL "he priocipal sum ";IS 10
';\< Jludtnl,) ('()nfidencc in their nbllil), to dC'\c:top.
uniqUC 'Ilk ef ~tl~m c;\luing and 1000"«:1IUlor., III
start.ng poinl rrom v;hicb they could (".'Icnd Ibnr
$1uck:nlS"kMVI'lcdgt.
The new edillon resp(Inds 10 Ihe \\-ay l'~brtQ:and
rash.ion have changed Ihe cut and sizing or garmmt..s
in difrCR:fll m:lnUraclurin.g precesses; Tbe Sfl:1.1
~Mio:" of C3~u~1wear, in jer~)' or 'If'C1ch(:lbrio..
h-:asled 10 the expansion of jl", cutting with no
chnm, 10 Cf'(:SI(' the shape. '"hi$ c:dhion di:'\Qtts 3
.hole secucn 10 this 'ype of cUllins_ H~c\er.
,Iaden,,. undCNlund til""" 10 create sh;J.pc-
1'1)1\'(' 10
Ihrou:sJt CUllin;: alene, in (nel,/orn, ''Ullin~. and
thl:n:fo~ lilt fil'1't secnce nf Ih\.' book ~tlU t'M"'CtJ Ihis
(",-lInlque: 1111.",.C'tII(1n~on lXlltlIUllcn'lIltlc:d d("'p.nd
,l1Idln, ha\C been ulxt;ttcd. 1'hl.llIi7~'(h"rlll of body
m<.)5UI\"n)(11I$.h{t\'c be!;'n revised: they "t:knO'l'kd~
1M c_b.:t,nJ;lna(I\:lpcl or \'()lncn'" bodl(,-
fhe book f'l."nl:lln' \\ dUcl! for bc¥-ulnl:~ '1(ud(Ql\
.. ho Ire ..llIrI'n~ pJ01C!tic:lIl".Iitem C1I1LIn,I m.) Ia J)olrlo(
"~hlon Ikgror or l)il>loml' COIli";l'SDr (or Cit)' land
GUild) E.\';1minIlClon,;: II 1\ 1,11(0for \ltldc:nb.n Upf'lC't
~.'huols \\ho ate: ~tudy-lng IId,':ulI:ed dte:ss )ubjctu.
One dupter de.lls specifically \,'hh Jra.fting lhe bSocl
ror Ind1\1du.:a1 figures. l'hi" \\'ill be u$efvl ror \!i'Qme;ft
.. ho m:akeclotho. for chclnsel\'c'J in order to (ft';tlt
textilestudycenter.com
and dc\'ttop Ihelr o\\'n utdlvtduuf .-ylt. Of' .om(ft "ho
find MII)SoI,r,lIJucl"tl t:lolhes ,In un~~ ..) 61
Some Jillt mem 1);IlIe'll~,p;tfllcularl) '" eoulurc
dOt"" :.'" CUlIlI1I'UCICd hy dmlllRJ on the: df'('» .aland
110",(\ cr, PlIttCI n (IIIL1IIi from bloc".) or .c.bptllttOt) or
c..~i"11ng ,)altcrn!l ill 1I0\V wide I)' uxd by 1m- dft'j.~ trade
bec:IU)!C of II" 1JCi:"rlu,:y or t.l/ln~und Ihc .. peed ¥lith
't\h"h ranges can be devetcped, V..ucm tU1I,O' b) thi.
mt'tbod is a means of neblC'o;lng It iho;tpc- around the
bod)' so Ih:1I ~lthou~h IhC'bad)' ~ndthcrefore the
bod)' blocks. t't'nl;lin CQnSt~"'Il~ there i~ no limit 10 tht
ideas that an be followed through into _-otbble
designs. Hov,'t\'cr, the designer must tlM'3)'Sbe
con$C'iou> IhlSI Ihe bV4Jy is I' !Qrm. Thb (an be
diffic:uh "hen one hll' rc relate tlal pieces of paper 10
!l dtsi.s:n Ihal i, b:s:.ical1y sculplunl .,.1k-n. it is
completed. In IIddhinn~ Ihe form ",'£11Mo\C: I.hJ~must
be: Cl{pIOlll'tllll the cui of the g1lfmcnl A olO\.og
shape' is mere \,i:iuully ('x('ilin$: IhIln II suB form.. But
there are pr.U;lk:II prC'lblc:nl$tft be \."C)nsidcn:dIn
i111U\11UIJ!' (~r
Ihl$ nll)\'l:'melll, The \)'\lcm or pltl('m
cutlins: orr~'redill Ihi, booL IlitclI'PC" 10 ",..ie cb~
scudc:"' more' fully Ilwaf"C or d~,nin, round ,he:
6.u~r;Ilhc:r usuu ~cin!l it II~:J bOOr ltu, PO~j.('lSI:'.
onl)' ~ rl'C)lu \'100\
~InCJ1' C"llIng ilhouhl be: uk'CI in CO"JUDCIJOO""Ilt
• dln...~Shtnd, 't"hiJ rnC:l.1n~that 11$tbe dOl.,. C'\"OI\6.
r~ror'ion ~lnd Une ,,"UI be: ....h«"'<d land ('C)mxic.'d
1~"(lcrn \'"Ullin~("tin lIehic\'!: 11$h,Ipie quielJ), but mon:
mmpliC31cd slyles :ihould be n,ade up IQCO:amullm
or QIICO lone.tO 'hill the t'e'\Vll ,,',Gft be ~ C,)n..
(Otm or I. I'lo\'ing ligutC,

PATTERN CUTfrNG
r~Utm CUllin, by .udllPlinU shllJl(:S from block
""lterR' ('.;In be triloN b:1C:1.
10 the Mkldle: or the'
nlntlctnlh o:tllllf)'. As Ih~ 4:111£"1
,lc\(lopcd Ih~ b;i)tc
ruki C\t'I\w. but rule,"Cl\n be:broken or I:h="AlC\lI(
Ih(\ ~( from eew creative (hrd:lion.f. 'rhi" ('O""PI
or d(sl$n h:a~ Ix\'n 1'(;\I'I()n~iblc:lor thto:nl~' ('\clun,
th;,nca 1ft ih~pclIud CUIl.Iul'ing ,hi,: lOIh ,,"(nlur)
Polrc.t. VlOnn.:, nnd Ch:lne1. S('n$iti\~ 10 "OC'lal and
Influences. ·dj.)(C),,~·l't'd lht hood)" .. (h~r it ~d
1I(::IOIhtllC'
bc:-cncn('~ In Sll\lcIUf'('$(or" !"'(nll'fr. ;-\hhoup
the ... tnJC'rpn'.tations diN'clTd. they were !.he- lonO\-;llors
of $00 ea» tiltin,g clothes,.. 'r<xIII)' Inc ch:altgiJ', soti..l
:allillJd~ of man)' ,,'Onu:ti tl(l\'t ch~ngtd their
311itodcs to fashion. they buy clothes 10 sat.is(~·
tbcm$o!"\'tS, lhe)' are not prepared to be mlricttd to :l
dtebted hne for a :oea~onor b)' nn outdated im.!lg,e of
femininity.
,\tllR)in, desi!,.'11 with C:1.$hionh:JS al"--a~sbeee It
ditraeult ptOCfiS.; it can be everwheimed b), simmi..-ks
and 1M bV.4rl"C'elfC"l1~thut ere ;1 pa,' or r..,hlC)n
\\'hilst Ihese lift' nC\.'('~r)' beenuse the) In,ilxt wn,
pk~tu~ and elC'ilcment. t("I)~I"lina;.thl:m inlo
~e.t,..bk: f"~I'-'n 1\ n Cl't'''~I\,C uri f)"ianins lit Ibe
k\d or ccuune or ",nall d~:-;sn~'r ~lll~'C'1I0n)It 'er)
ddTct'fn1 (rom Ih;\t or designl"S rOt a m"ss mllrL(t
O.trm<'nIJ ('R'~tcdftlt 111\'ndi\'klu,11 chelll '1\(' 0&
doolJAcr mort rr«don. I'll" (.'(lSI flll:lOr tk."COMI,.'1 k)
Importllnl. and this 111IU""$ Ihe otiiitialidell to be
l"".trnfillh.rough. Interesting fubric!! ItllU .In: d.lffic:ullio
tundlf Coinhe U\;f,.'d. Ihclr \lir(.IC'e <lUllIii Ie' (mph~~
b) dC'COl"'oIll\'C I«hniques. '-hc 'c"C of Ih.e 13m1ml l$
usuaJl) del('m:uned b)' dr3ping on Ihe .stand \\.~ the
jnl~ of the <,UItun he d¢v(loptd o.:JiEAln~
fOt tndi\'ldual C"CIUS ~III()IVSthe p4:1')(1I'111Iit)of 1ft<
Vr."'Ql'('f 10 be (USlCd ",ilh Ibe urigin':ll idea.. The me of
the «kbrity in lhe ll\bSic industry (.Md tbe mufi.J_
h:a".dc\'C'loped ;l n~' l'-\-eiling'tI:ltk~1for $(lIne:.op
designers: it is 3 means by Yo'hichthey can promote
lheir design' .and Iheir nl)mc, ~tOla m!tj()r designers
:also ~Ie ·dc.sisne't COIle\,!IIOIlIi' ,,'htth art prodU4~
b)' m:anuf.acturing proce$~~ tun Ih(' bi~h P'~ or 1M
prrnc.nu:o111()\\'S the ''ijlJnlilu~' of Ibcit C'Ullor(maUl
lind hmlttel nUI\ of speclu!!)' prilucd or \\o\~n (lIbrk's
to bc u:~.
TM mO\.IIIm,tin, raCto~ III dC'liii!l,in&(Dr mll'i'\.
rtoducltOn .Ire' prICe:fil,d Ih~'"roducllon p~"
notttn ill~ hOi'"til h:I"C! 'hllnS<lf apl>l:III': th;'ll~
pcopk ,,&II br tcnlph.-d lO I'Y t'1.:111on or bu) lIkm (or
'har tool. lIklt'le. Orten d~sll~'.,'i Ih:11loot..wn~II(J~1
on:l nlo\"lRJ. body 0'111l.ool: linlp :lnd (c.llurcJ$
00 a C'tolh< ...rJd. Tt~~ ;Itc I"~) t)'pc$ or ,uc(,.'("-"rul
dcsipcn in th(' IU:t.l>Sptuductloll (lUhion lr.ldc. The
5
AND DESIGN
fi~1 ~roup lire (Iuptoycd hy ·rJ'UdU(1lon·W'
m:anu(:.ttUI'\!rli: the5C d\"~ill:lll:" 4"1lndC\clnp ('umnt
( ..."tllon lrthllpc$o.bUI fi:C'oi;l1ize th.1I (Jbnc (COrium)
and n:pc.11 Injl~ina·tlp Intihods un: ,he Prio"I),
The ~nd 9.I\'IUp Ille CIl1Illo)'cd b)' ·t!c5lJn·kd·
m:anu(IJC'1ul'O''':they lIre abl~ 10 prod,," or1JJnollldC'd.
.ad Ire ¥Iblc 10 ¢xpcrh'non, \\jlh new f,ltma aM
produclion IlI'OC':SlICS,
Tht~ 111,(: or
100meblu'H:1:lcm':lu'4 t1('(.1&J'llh~t.0«1
or tna)' limit .1 dC'$ignc:rin un)' fh:lcl
Colour and paucrn These 'I~ the most dom.tJlJla'
ft'".sI'lrcs in :1 fnshil,ln «eeu. Each scaron :. ..:oIuut
'heme: ~(:rl':(".:o..oe~ISI(lll'llly ~pont~nr:ov.5ty• .)()mC"1itnt):
influenced by top designers, 110\\~V'('1"~
most mass
tdaiJers tel)' on .he slyle and colour pn:dielioft$ of
lhe m:tjor forecasllng :.I&(nci~ New t«hn~ eew
otT(,r :l revolution in printed textiles. Ills(("".tdof aU·
O\"tt repeat deslgus, unl'tpc'arin& P311Ctft$llnd new
or
SOller; p.11lent can he (tchk\"~d. chut offenns nC\\
ron«pl$ III ,,'hieh decorn 1t1)11It. .nt('gr.-IIO tbe "hole
design,
.~IIIbr'I('ql,l~1I1)' Nc\\' t~hn()I""'sk<l: ha\c ::.1.'\0 «"p:snded
the hlnfe of f'llbtit~ "vuUubte to II -.I<"IIOCf The
~~lh(11C' qllI\IJli~'$ til' :1 fobric !lrt' ofic::n Ihe IOsptQllOn
Ihlll Inhl"lc:$ ,~d¢)lln. 111)\\'<"'er.In c~ahnl.n~
IIh.J('C II de..\iwnt.:t hllJJIU C<11l)ider fi\c cruoc:gl (abric
qU4ll1icti,,'hieh could rt\lhJ;c n ord~'h)) It "'C~
Ilnd 1'''''CIL \\!hlls.
11n::n~jllhl. ,t,/tA'lIl'j,t, l"t'(I,. ~tf{lIJC
I:.I"&C'ronlp;lnics IUI"o tC$linit procn1Uft'S that an
4ttt:rn1lne Icchlltejlllll~jurt" ihe dC1lp'cr o(\cn hn
10 mllke InSl,lnt judgcnl4'lll:l< and lhcttfort halo 10 bt'
abJc to C'stimllt(;'thc quaUltcs or" (aboC' .and tdeiJlW'
lhe 6nll.l <:ff...1:I,
Sh.~pc \\'hil~t J'C(;Og_nizinglhe: CfUci31 tOle lhal f:..1>hc
cboice plays in 'he' realiznuoD o( destgn. ItS SUl'Ct':SS
tt:$t$ \\;lh the quality (If Ihe. p.:lncm (\il.inl. The
oQl'ninlllion or Slftl~h f;.lbril;:sin the m;t» m:3r1.'t'1b3:>
meant :10 exp;:ln$ion of sinlpl('jlal palt~m~lIlliItJ
lrchrllques which r~l)' Oil the stretch 10 ('re.atC-lh~
bQd) ~h"pc. llul siruich flthrlcf can be marritd _ilh
'(onn' culling 10 gjve quite dlff(rt'nt (O'«ts. 8iaJ
<"uI1In#add", 10 the dnlpc tlUahl) or fabrics. :and 1M
\I~ Gr 1~)eN c:ln .tlTc:c, tht: ",('iShl And Ihidne« of
the dn.lgn "(,f'" ('lllllllR (If ~,ftt~ filtlns s;umml" In
rOtbnc\ \\UhOul ~he"r 01' drupc.lIuch It" $11« \dk~
rcqui~~~1't.11 ~kill,
Ijlle Thtt Inlcq)h:I.ltiOIl 1)( lint:'and CUI I~ the m041
comp1c:\ pari o( I' designer') \\o.k. On« ~ f.&Shlon
'''-pc bcc()mc~ C$llIbU~III;'11. Ihe \'ttn..tltOM m CUI 10
:.~bt('\l' .1 are intinile_ l'he dt.'iianer nl.Uit we hli or he_,
,Jr.,U 10 p.rodU(¢ II rlul~t: lh.11 "11I1t'oIn'!l.a~ 1M ble.1
(a)hlolJ u,~ ,l ft111~ ors:izCi.

6
FABRICS
l.>NIpCf'i bave to tH."quireI., deep undenn;tndl", o(
lhe qU.lbl~' ('Ir (lIhti(.'i. ~il"')'dC:i!.I'U:r\~,,"Iilh.tl: In
daa,nlnJ" p.JIrticuiar pr<W,h,lCl. tor cXllmpk hnJCrtc or
Jpotlw,'eoJr Tb,. Inl.'#nl' Ih.1I they have It) undct)ulnd
1M b;a~ pmpcfl~ "I' rl~hric~IIl'lt.ll('~tln, pA:K:n!uJ'C'(
..r~ be' a~l.Irtd Ihill the fuhric \\'111 ~rform \\tll (or
tbc:lr p;lrtteulOir ptOdU':L
fbco dC'Slgncr hils to bcecme rrllnJilllf "'llh thl: 1)'pt:S
or ~'O\'Cnlind knitted 1I1rUCIUI'e1,f (.I"ne. KnO\\kdlC'
0( l~ b:ts.c source of (ubri~ hll$ to be: ucqu,~ lind
bow th,S aO'«ts the enormous lIumbc.rof fiu.mn l~t
cn be ~p1icd 10 f{ibtil.';S.
H(Nn'Ct. Ihe MOst irn(lO(lfu'U quallues th." 11
desi~ must consider when creating a d~gn are;
.rlghl. IlIltkncsJ. dmj>e. .flfe-I(ll:Ind s/l~" (the. :unOdn!
textilestudycenter.com
lbe 6brn di~ll)rl in .hl:' warp and ""tn~.Ibese
QU.1hlh:) \\+,111l1TC\:1'lUl10: dr.lln;'lh.:.III)' ~ a p;allctn
_III be cui and bow Ihe (in.11~hapc ....111be re;all1cd. 1\
U)'I or r..bees 1\ lihown belMlo..... hlch " nttqort7o.1
Into the (1111'(1'('1)1f:lbth: "cl,hl" \\-'~Iiht lind IhdnC'",~
~rtg(I'I(F.1l1y elesely Ilnkl.'\I, but ..ome thlc''' ptk
rlabt.c1 ((InSltu(tl.'tl "'llh ""In·mllde fibn:::t c..n be
d<'«lltl\~ly IiShL Shear nnd drupe are abo onm
(Ino~l) fln~oo:1111."'< qU~llitk.,.,IIlh')\\ the cutu."1 of.ol1
bod)' 5kimn'in#~hapc$. Today the popubnl) or
Slrtlch (ubrics. both \I,-O\·('Q
and knuini. b;n brc:o the
most inllu¢llti!tl Factor in cuuing rOt m:as..<-produccd
g,am'C:Rli. 10 the: ~dhetl 1151of ("boo bc~. knilt~
(abrics are fisted in aJi colwnns because or the huge
"'!l~ty in different \\'('iShli.

LJCUT-MEll ~1EDIU~1 .\.EI)-.~EAV'· J<.l:AVY

~\fglllai"e ,\Ip.:1C.":t Ikdrord card J\~tmkhl'ln
AnluJnl n:lgh<xr.a 80ucle UC.I\'cr
1'~~n'lIlin... D.af1l1hca Broildck>lla OoublCl
C:!t~hnlCf'l: U:t.ttr:: crepe- Burlnp DuOI¢
Chinn 8ro1.cllde Camrl hair 11('11
,'h,nl1, O\,lli:hcr Can\'llll Fur rnbr.c
eire ('l1hco ChC'nllte Kniu«t fl.lbtk-t
('rC:J)oll (':'\;1lr)' t"'ln ('h(\'"lol tude" clolh
Duplon CJOlI\1oC C'ordUI'O)' ,.,Jetton
Patne Could l)uncaal ,\\',",'(1 Plush
f-oulard C()\'('n Onll QuiJh:d
Oil1ldullu (''''II< OuC'k
IIernespun Oaln...,1. OUl'IgllNC
Honnn Denim OU\'dyn
Knil(<:d f1_lbri() OUdkin Fll)nn\;1
LAIne F..C'onn~\'d\'ct FIe«<
Mmelassc G::.batWnc- Flock
&Ioh:tir Grenadine Fu$1i....n
Muire (j~~in H1jtTi~ l""'C¢d
Ottoman llaircord HO~'comb
Panama Hops.td In13f'$l3
Percnle Jlll.'qU:srd Kemed rabrki
IlJque Jean Ulima r«brlc:o
S!IIC:f;!1l Knitted rJbrin ~'oltskjn
Slllin P:lnn~ \"(1\<. Thp<>.ry
Sh:lnlllllll Rc:pp Ticl.lng
Shllrt"kin S;lII":Mlh ..... eed
Slipper !I~llin S,",wn) \'('Iour
Sutllh $(r,c: ,'C'nC'tinn
r~lnCUI SUI11nas \'Kuna (ab"(,....
rnt'4)1 1iatlJlO \\ihlpt."Ord
l'u1M>ro Vcl\cI
"('I"('tC'C'n
\\'or;cc:d
 7
Part One: Classic Form Cutting
1 THE BASIC DARTED BODICE
BLOCKS

,OOLSi\NOEQUIP\IE:-'IIOR MAKINOPi\MtRNS 1'4,,8

INDUSTRI'\L SIZI!'.G SYS1'EMS 9
Sl'ANOAKI) 000\ .\IL\SURE~1EN'-S 10
CONS'I'RUcnr--G BLOCKS 13
T~'E CLOSE FITnNG DOOICEBI,OCK "
THE EASy FITTING 8()DICE BLOC'" 16
TI·IE T...\lLORED JACKET BLOCKS (close ond easy fit ling) IS
SI1;\I)ING TilE BLOCKS 18
""IE CLASSIC CO..\T Bl.OCKS (.;10$(~1I'd(,1:0), lillin~) 20
THE ONE,PIECESLEEVEBLOCK 12
1'~'E 'rW().PIECE SLEE\'E BLOCK 2'
,.~, E SLEEVELESSBLOCKS ~6
SI1,\I)ING TIlE \\'AIST ~7
TilE DRESSBLOCKS 28
 textilestudycenter.com
8
Tools and Equipment for Making Patterns

\ 'nudtnl .hOijld Jllnl 10 au,;qutre U $ood &c:t or ToJ/r F4,t.,irl CIIUCfI i:o used (or '''ill-in, 101k1 (or
cqUlpmt'ftl. 'Io-'('\>('.r, M'lInehenl!! are \or) ()(~n~I\c.. d$lJtt In ,,'oven (lIbl'le,.,~'111l;l:
\1Jft' Ihf .(.pl or tit"
rhc-'It':n" m.\rl.('d \Io'IIb;1111IIIIe,ill}.
thai a~not
c·,
denote tbO\('
o.)(nlisil inllllc\lhll(:I),.
calico I~ue close 1(1the \\\!'Shl or Ih~C'kMhas ~,blC',
Klult~ r~lbNC(,r litl:' ..."me' :&1n:I\!bquahl)' mu)t bot
,,)((I 'or Intlkil\Mtoilet (ot' de,l,n.J ,,. jcr)(')' (abt'a.
110,*,,,, ${"jotf! A ttlU \\'orkhl, )lntfun: I> fCqUIn:d
Ida-D)'. II '\.hol,ddbe 90 ~2cln hip-h. • \1(lfk S1111I,n'
hJpc-r Siron,. brown paper is used fOt IXll1ctn,. ·Cult1lll1l0f The calcul:tlor i:i 1tC)\\ It ('omrdOft tool In
P'.m:hm('olor thin card ~hould be used fer blccts thai a1J an-al' of skiLL Ir
Il C'lIlcuJatot is nol 3\-;ubbk we
:arc used rrcqucnd}'. 1be'Ulbk or llliquot p::u1). (see ,,\p~fldi),. pap: 191).
/'rnrtl, t.:sc hard pencil!!lor drnOing p~lt"rb CUI), • FrrnM Clj,,'t';l 1"II11lK:shape' and C'-Ur'\'C$-aR
ooIoumi pt:ncils (or outlining complicated 3R3S. Wl-l1ilablcill a range of sizes: tbey are useful (or
dr.!" ing ~()<)dt\lr\'~ ,\ I1c",kur\'e ""hich ..lao-_,.~
FtIw Pffl' For "'rilinS I.!lc:tr insl.t1Jcliotl.O:
on p:lIIC~
sb~pC'10 be: mOJ)il'lulutcd 1:J 'llw lr\d.ilabJc.
RuI>INr
'rhls is H (OOllrult m31t" bllllncc
• PIlIIO'II ArOIt"ltllf
.\/""k RuJrf painls b)' snipping tlUI a .kC1W,,, or JX.1llrm p,3p=-r
CMrf.td Rill,,_$. For dn\\\'ing long curves, • Panem 1'lllrrfJ
••,,.fIY'S,irl. • PtJI,,.rll 1(.)(lkl
~t $qUO" A bille sct IIqU\.I1\' \Iolilh II 4$- "1\1I-1ei:\ ·",llh'l11 1I~".,:ltI" 'I hetIC:k«ll I'~~or pat1em In
\('ty ukfu1: melrie ,nhlllli ~'lIUlrt'i:c,ln be obllllnfd PQsi1ionon 1\I11)(t or <:Iolh
",."It- T~ \/t't1J(;!Y' • \/1N/t'I.t;,.uul\ Altho\I," nOIC'~nll.ll retr.
bc,.nncr, Ihe), "I'(' 1"\,l1lu3bl~II,)Ih( "floU-) -uudc:nl (or
TNC'UQ' II'~l!1
dn'c:I(lplng tlc:cigl)~
S1K~n USC'~ep..rate sht'llTli lilt cuumg cloth :.nd ·'"Otl1/tJlt("t f.·qIlIIJr","" A dC:$Cnpuoft or computer
p.tpn'''~ cUII.ng I).&I)I.:(\',111 blunt Iht bl.t\lc ...
equipmenl \'UIJ be: Jound on POlIl\")18.) 196
&1Io1DpC'
The: equipment can be obtained at:
Pun J~rI,tJk~ Lid" N('1I1Ilfllt""-,,llufkf'1 Pl«~. /..DN/o.n
Ilf/l., st Y
~-4JUII"« uno Ollt'oj,/lh Sca/~Srl'"'".s Tbae are
~tial (OT stodems 10 record pattern blocks and
JJorpJar,"56 G,~t 'J"icJ¢l!ld ~'rm'l" Landon
a¢tpl3:IlOns: In Ihelr nOI(;book:f.. "'II" 7DF
.f)I"plt"J Gfc',q,- J~I('kn't}qll/lolld. H,uIJn¢~JJ
Slanley Kll.ik IIDI lQW
Tur/(tr', CIrR/{ For luarkins: (II-Hthe final p;,ancm
ooto the: e:loth lind fot ntlltkinjol jillill~ :lhC',...llons-

Industrial Sizing Systems
~fC<lSU~('nl 3iur\'C)$ conecr InCII~UrCnlc:nld.atll 10
ptOd~ ~11in.~Sltnl~l11e)' orevtryco'ltl)'. To
obl;u" R'b~bk data, IhOUSlUulJlof !iubja::I'l h.I\C' to
be' mta.)urtd .,nd It I, VCf)' JIOlcull 10 obtain publIC'
money fOf lbe ,.)k. The I""" survey. whkh ""i IOtllily
funded by the government und mnde pubh('l~
:r."IYbk, "as In 19S7. Rt.'<:cnlSUf\'e)'S h:n"c been
pri\';1lt onn done by individual e..,mpantes or h:&\'C
been jotnt enterprises between the g_o'-e nunent and
btgc mailers.. As the OOlnp;_tnieshave borne all, or a
proponion. of the COSts.Ihe)' see the information as
commercialty valuable and therefore it is "'ithheJd
from public use. This has happened to the dal3 from
,he lateSt British S-Uf"\'t)' which look ptace under the
diKCtKtn or the Department of Computer Science,
Unin"n:il)' COllege. london. The su....'cy was earned
OUI usin.s computer ~nning cquipmem. f\ number of
Sy1otC'MSarc now available to companies, Although
$Ome problems: remain. the SC'lnncrllcan now make
"Iuble: t\"lCOrdlnssof mOSt (If the l)rinciP'lI bod)
ID(';bUn:'nlent~ K'quir"d ror clothin",. Thc)' (,-lin111,o
ereare 31) Im;J,CSof tht body \\'hiell il"c u~ful
informallon liboul Ihe chllnging shnpe o( the
roPULlltOD rhc bl~Q.e\t pMblcln rcnl:ain~ the C:O\I.In
the ~n' fln.lnci..1(1In11111: (C"' eompames 1Ih:wdhn,
10 U'\-nt In sceh Inno\'alh'C h.'(hllo!o¥y and Ibc) 1II"C
fk'4Irl)'all In eperatlon in govcmment-sponscred
pro)t'(1$. j\ brgc number of $ul'\c)'$.. parlkt,ll~rl) Ihose
10 <k\'doping countrk:~ ...te untlertllkeD Ujln& ""Jnu ..1
IccbnMllK'S.A resenrcher fronl ~1anchestcr ~1etro
Uni\'(1'tit) has developed ;1 systcn1of In~nu:tl
mt25UremeDI using "'110I11throp()loctric stand and a
spc"'ciaI harness.
BRITtSH J\NO EURorE,\N STi\NOAROS
The British Standards Institution has usually bc:co II
m3in .s:uidt 10 $lzinS. IneaSlIrcnlenl$ and labelins.
Their nc"\\' Stsndard,;: h(1vebeen adoplw from CEN.
th.C'Europe-an Conllnith,"(' ror Sl:lnd;lrdizalion. 1\.1(bt
European ('Ounlr~ including Ihe UK ha'e signed to
adopt IhC'Jl3ndllrd~ ~ISfC(d. ,'b..,
st:lnchtr..Js offered
b) OSI .., prc')('nl ~In:ns I!NI3402·1:2001 ;ind 8S
1;~I.l402·2:2002. ,'hclOC detine h~rm... tlefinnlonJ lind
bod) mt)un:nl('nl procx-dUI'Cliand the pl'iln.1t')' !lind
tc'C"Ond;llry dlmen~ion\ u~d for a:lrn"~nt l;thelln,.
OSI h~ Il.,., publl)hcd .1 CEN dl-sc:u_lIlonroaper 8S
121"011.).402·) .hi('h IItlunlly IIS11l1)ru~d bod)'
measurement )'l~charls, aflll shO"'lI ., pictosram of
9
II Ilaun: wnh b:lf;ie b·ody ml':llIUrcnlcnts 10 use on
l:abels. ;\ finrtl revision :alld p\lbhelttion o( thiS
dl\oCu'l110nIXll)Ctus II Europe.ln or British Siand ..rd "
not (~I)«hxJ ~1"llIlhe cn~!of 2QO.1. A (urlht"r
Sl~nd:al'd 1$proposed, EN 13402"': thlj "'Ill ~,n:.te
:a coding system \vhich ,...in be- circulattd (Of
dl!CU(;~IC'u~ in 2004, As European ,,'OdIn, It quue
different froln UK coding this could be (OnlcnllOui.
The usc of standards by manufacturers IS \"OluntaI)'
and e~plains tbe anarchie systems or mint lhat are
found in High Street f;lshion. Despite the .'Ort laking
place to obtain more consistent sizing both in the UK
3nd Europe. the garments on sale in both br;t eed
small retail outlets nppear 10 be si\'ins jess and bf
information, Pictograms and body measurements have
vinuaUy disappeared, the labels only dispb)"" size
cede. ~1any retail ouueu do nOI bave in-SlOft: tiu
eh .. n" to ~Iate the codes to bod)' mC'.a:suo::MC'nls..
TransJauons 10 Ellr()pcnn code su;e:\ \1Il)' bel"Uft
mllnufa('turer~ I\hhough the In!}!1order C':II.i!I)osUCi
orr~r cu'-10111tN lM,d)' Si1~ ch.lrti \\ilb the: rodn..,t ,,,
llppan:nl Ihlll these Yllf)'wuh I'(lcn:n« 10 lht1r nde
mllrLtl.l>,.
OTllbR DATA SOURCI;S
The Handbook of Adult Anlhropomclr1c and
$Iren,th ~1(asurcnlcnts is another soveee from _hlCh
mau.un:mcnl datil nrc available for dc:ugnc:n and
manufacturers, It \\'IIS produced b)' the Consumer
Sa(el) Unit (CSU) or the UK [)(patlrMnt o( Trad('
and Industry. The harldbook is a dd:ign n:sou.R:e
produCC'd by Ihe Institute of Oocupalional
Ergononlics 81 the Univcrsity or Nottingham. Thot"
handbook bl'ings l0t-¢ther all a,';}il~bk anthropometric
and strength d~ltli on 266 :-anlhropomctfif; dirtl(1bions
and 18 strength meIL~urClnents..Data are presented
from 3 range of coulltl'ies fro III Europe. ..\si:J 3nd the
USA
SIZE CHARTS OF !lODY MEASUREME). TS
I~TillS nOOK
l"hrcc chan,;: tll'C: oO'crcd:
I. Dody l11etlsurenlcnlS 40nl lind 6cm incn:menlS
(mollt fUI'()pclln lIi1ina)
2. Dody Ine;asur<:fllcnt) 'cnl incftmenu cmOS!
cumnl UK 5lzhltl)
J. lJ.OOyIn('a~urenlcnIS S 1\.1LX L ()'OunJ fuhton)
 textilestudycenter.com
10
Standard body measurements
...,..,
,,
•

,_
,,
I

,,
\r-..;.: -r
••
- - - - - - ::'-~-~-:i?:f:o>.,....;..,/1-<..<.:-.::.:-;,.:- - - -,_-;:..::-...:-,_..J,rr"'-::,-,:-,:-;,_- - - - - - - - • --"
-\ -; "II ~- .......,._"
~ --- . - ....'r-t--7-'-_..... • I I
r---H---'-:, - - ...... ......lNdI- .....lllh
• I ...
__I
• .----=~
_______.. _.._r~,....
)
,
,,
I
---11
I
I
,
I --
/
----
..........

- ----- --~,-
"-+--+-i----i - --- -' I' V
!) \
......,.o'N!!! _ .. .. -- .. _ - __ ..ctOtIoor

• M<e"1"C' _ ... ------ .... -1-''''''

,."hlll'tl\!.. _ ...... _~
0,*141 .. ~

/ _\.
 II

~
.-c
N
iii

e
-C
~~
$-
~
'"
E
Q
~
~ ,$
~
'"
-c
E
"'~
""""'"c
es
E i'6'
.,'" •
I
!!
c
<J

-
E
"
."
r' or-.
-M-6CI ~

-.
""
o
....
-(\1- ~
U

QQ
'E
"""c
-
V'"I
 textilestudycenter.com
12
Standard Body Measurements - SCIll Increments
~1i11n)Ilnli~ compnniCi lire. (or comrnercl..1t(';\tnRJ,.usin, Scm 1nl(I'\,II5:between IIU staes, Tbit ...implifJC!d cilc
(rom ,.1),.(' 10 10 sve 24 CUfll1n(n(~ Ihe ~«
..:11:11/" 8 and a'kn\ .. IRcrcnlC:nti 10 remaln 'he !l{tnlc lI('ro,» the >tu tliInJ;('
and Ih<n:ron: (ftaIC\ eader Aile!ijl\lllc'\, j A 'h.llr ~it('·1.SC'm InCl'('rnc:nl can be t:rc~llcd ror iLlC 8,)
\\'0"'(,1\ \>f "latium -... 1(10"", t72C1n ($n .lIn' n 71/,&n.
S.,....... 10 I~ 14 1& IS :0 ..
~ :'
8I:ST $2 87 9: 97 IU2 11)'7 II! 117
\\AIST 6-1 69 7' 79 8' 89 9J 'J'I
1111'S lIS 93 9$ 10J 108 IIJ 118 I!-'
BACK \\'IDTtl JJ j.I_l }S.4 36.6 37.S J9 40.2 011."
39.5
CIIEST
SJIOULDER
JO.5
11.9
3!
12.!
33.5
12.5
35
12.1t
3b.5
I~,I
J8
lJ." n.7 "14
NECK SIZE
DART
TOP 1\R_..\f
15.6
6.'
16,o1
.16.1
~
7
11
~
,... 39.2
lI.!
31.2
141)•.&
$.8
32.S
'1.6
9.'
1'.4
.tl.S
10
.!6
"10'
)7 .•
"RIST 15.5 16 16,5 17 17.S 18 '$.5 19
ANKLE !J," :. Z4.6 2$.2 :!S.~ 2(0,01 27 27.6
IIiGIl ANK~E
NAPE YO \",,'ST
fRO!'o.'TSIIOVLDER TO \VAIST
:<).
40.5
40.5
21
J1
J1
21.6
"I.~
.1.8
22.2
.2
"2.6
22.S
42.$
43.4
l.)J
4J
-W.~
!J
43.5
.5
...
2-'.6
",S.8
ARl\tSCYE OE.Pn I :!<l.5 21 11,; 21 22.$ !J !l.S 2.
\\'AIST TO "NEE 51! 5iU 91 595 60 60.5 61 61 S
"'AIST TO IIIP
""1ST TO I LOOR
IIOD\ RISE
:<).3
IOJ
27.3
206
10.
!li
:<1.9
lOS
~7
....
21.2

!')..t
21.S
107
;\0, I
:'!1.8
II)!
)O~
UI
1M
}I.$
2U
110
.llJ
Sl.r..Lvr::LF~(jTll 57.$ 58 58.5 59 $?.$ 60 6Cl.S 61
SLI r" ~"NG1'1I UGRSI'Y) 51 ~ 52 52.5 I.' $),~ 54 SA~ 55
, .. ~ \1..... '""..'" ,_rtII""_" Ilich II~u~ m .... )1 oN« ""' ....... 011tot ('1)erN I~ 111(1
"'110.''', .1'11«kk"
..,..11
"lor •."
• la \Iedlllo'•• I~ I" Will." 10 18 -';1..,..,
~MlIUIIDlI\ (rum Ihf ~"llIlIn' 10,1.1 I! r.lf I'. e..
:P.:1
01 dw ..,. Nde\.

Standard Body Measurement Chart for liigh Street Fashion GarRll'lIts

SMI. MID tOE XlOt:
511'\" ,)mboi S M ~ Xl
BUST S'! 88 9J 100
\VAIST (" 70 16 82
FliPS
B,\CK \\'lDTI I
CHEST
88
ll.S
lO.6
9·:
)
JU
... 100
.!6
14.2
106
)16
.16
SIIOUlOER II.S 12.2 12.6 I.-
NI~CKSLlE 35.5 31 .IS.$ 40
~ • .,...". Wi''' II'
\tnl... U;rt' 1: DART 6.1 7 7.' 8~
t...r,r .... "...~\.. J,LI'~ I" If! TOP"R~1 l•.4 28.' .304 J2•.1
x~ 2rf!" ....\ UTe 1$ \\"RIST 1~.3 16 167 17•.1
ANI\LL
111(i11AlI(l(LC
NAVe TO W\lST
PI(D'T SIlO~LD(R TO WAIST
:!J.I
20.1
40,.11
40.4
..
I.
21
2'"
21 ;
•• 6
.16
1S.K
21.8
..
!2
"U
AR'ISCYE D[ml
\Vi\IST ro I(SlE.
~0.4
".7
"
11
5~.5
21 6>
59J
ll.l
60.1
\VAIS"t-rO 1111' 2b2 20.6 !I 21 "
WAISTTO IlooR 102.! .001 IOj.5 107
IKlOY RISf 27 l~ ~ 10
SLEEVE Lo..m·lt 57 58 59 60
SLEEVE LE'OTII OERSEI'j S. 52 53 SA
 13
Constructing Blocks

DLOCK f',n I.RNS BlOCK f·AT·r~ltNS INI)IVff)lP'l H()URI,S

t\ NO(" p;a1lC'm 1\ ft IOlindillloll p.. nern con\lfUCl.:d
to fil an tr\('tA~'Clij;u(('. The lI\'cragc mt.'llllUf(111~nb or
"1)mcn ~I'( obt.uncd by clothin@ lIUII1Ur..,,1Uf(r'\ fram
~,jn.
)W'\"()"
On.a~Il(,f'S Wi(' 11(ounciluiou pattern (blloKk, liS ;a
N.'-f( (Of mltt.ang 1M 1'1I1t(fit (fir "Je~ign rht) mit)
InttOdua: Style lines. tucks, g:ulhCf3.I,lc.Jlj ot drnpcs.
but ~IIUthe b;tSIC lit or die pauern .... ,11conform to 1M
b~ used The finished paucm i) Inude up into::a
(;,alii» IOlle 10 cheek the pr(ll)Oftlonfl :In.J sh.upt. "Ibe
deslpl 1$ the"ncut cur in fabric and made up. This is
ter"fl'lrtd a $3mpk. If II is accepted b)' bu)'cl'$3nd
ordC't$;arc r«e;'"od. th~ pattern i> Ih~n S:r:1dcd into the
Ala reqtllrc6.
BLOCK P,,\TI-ERNS (jENI:R,\lINFOR~IATIOS
InrtrUC'ltoM lire 81\1:1\ fflf" wide range ""-'IC' or
prIMnl\, ~ bJCX'ksinchrdc Ihe b:lllic Illnounl or
C.l'i(' mttlirC'd (nr the fu"ction or
Ihe blt)<:k:(or
C'.Aitmpk.11dR''') bloc" rcqulr':-i I~ .. l':l\1: thill1 :. Jo1Ckc:t
bb:t. ~mc blocklOoffer :1 furlh.:-r cncee or cJX': for
C'umple. lhe Mt'fprnlt:111 hlnQk Clin hi: drnRC'd 10 be'
c:t.MC' rltlut. (or :I (ormlll CO:IIor 1(1be ISnC:'\IC' fillll'lS
co..l It IS unpoltont Ih~1 Ihl: ('Hrl't(:t bl()(~b chO'f<n
(Of the: d~gn: ,hi) oot only loil\"Q1i ume durulI
IIdOlp....I)on bul al!oo cun nffL't"1 the Iin,ll $ohare for
tXllmpk. It.< dose filting. b\")dic.:c hluc:k hOl~It \\KW cbn
to produc.c ",tt:.pin,t;(or the busl: litis sllilping is 100
:IIculC'(or maD)' easv fitting designs: the C;I~~· 6tllng
bkK't "o,,1c,t pro\ide .. bt:l1cr bllse..
Sped.._1~01C' The: ba$j¢ bl{'ICJ.:8- ~hould be: dnlOcd In
(un ~ studcnl$ thc,u lind il easier to understand
b&txt eonSSrud.ion and bc(omc :1"':Ire of bodY'
proportion,..
l'bc ba~'f:hloc:k!ll."'lln be draftt:d to fit ifKh\NWtI
fil;uro by uliinl1l'Crllonlll,nCiL(U((Mt'nl\. '"'It old ~ tht'
~ ...nd"f.,l C)n(.. lb;t..:~1inlh\! !lt/t: ch.-rl ~Icthlld' of
I.1nd~hCf\lllCmi for
1~ln, p:_~onlll tnt.IjlUI'Cl1h~n,--,
dlO'tcuh figures an: lnoluded m C:b,lptt'-r 11,
SEAM ALLOWANCES
Tbere is no Sf:~IIUullu....'..nee included in the bJocl;.s.
Tbtsc :It'CI :Iddcd 1lnel' tbe patt!:rn is <'On..stN(ltd. Sot
Ihe:S«11(Jn on seam uttcwances on pale J!.
TYPES OF D,'SfC IILOCKS AVAILABLE 1>1
THE BOOK
810t':1o;f6r Ferm Culrinn
I, The C1os~~Fitling nQdH..~Block Cp:l£e .4).
1. Tht: 1~I'lIYl'lning Ilcnh(.'C Rl\x:~ (p3gt' t6).
J, The TlJilurcd Jllckcl Olock - etose or C;JS)' fillln,
("'l!< lSI.
.. The ('''1a..-re ('oal 1l1uck c:lo.1Cor COl\.)'11'ln,
(1).1l" 20),
5, Th.c Onc,l)Jcce SI('(\'o IJlt>ck Ihe block can bt
OOn(lnKIt:d ror ellthe "00\(: bl«k..\ C~JC' 22).
t.. The 1'\\o·f'J(_<!cSteeve Hleck 'rbe btor:k Qn he
COR)tr\I(.'1«i rllr nllrhe llOO\c bl«~ C~1t 2.&)
1 utl)('..k rnodlrlc.nton for lIll"t'\'cks" lind ,,-aut
lohllpllig (1X1g_ee ~6iln~137 J
8, The Dress IUoc;ks:cne-picee und rwe-pieee (pOlgt'
2S)
9, The Sh!II'ltd KitnOIlO Ohxk( (p.J:g£" (0).
10. The T:}ilorW Skin 1}lock (page: 78"
11. The Clas.'iic illiloR'd TroUSC'fBlod. (~!C98).
11. The \'cry Close Filling Trouser/Jan$' Bk% ......(~ge
104).

fNTER~fEDfATEflLOCKS BJocIt(i for "'I~t CUlling

Some manu{al:lurt"h cOn_"tnll'! hucrnl!.'di:.t< block's: I, The E:1,.)' FlIlins Trtlu!lCr Blnck (paS'" 11$),
1hcsC'arc tM:s:.c )hapt$ III:.. II'''' in usc continually, (or 2. The Simp).c '~lIsl!rUlock (page 130)
C'.'Qmrlt,be kimono "'lock, tllC 'A'Une :itln blot't, or 3. The Simpk Skin 11Jo.(.'k (pase 130)
II par1kular t.hupc 011,,>hic;b~ (!til£.!: Qf J~,n:(h;\'1 .. "he IIlIlIk Shif'1 Block (r~'t,;1}oI),
betn bot.-<d Tht' 1.lllt't 1\ .,fl"o dl:\'clclJ'('\! rur II $. Trw 1l:1;'IC'1::-1:11·
()~'(rlJ.llrnlcnt 0101.:.... t~ 1:\6 •.
p;arl.c'uJ .. r ff1$hlon "hapc: Ihi,. type Qf -(""hlon block' 6. Tht 'I 1,,1'KlrllfillO 1l1ocl.(p."c IJ6),
ma) onl) lK ,,~ for <tile SClls..,n.,.\< mllnur.I(IUI'CN 7. T« Shin lind 'rr.I(;}; SIU' llhx:k'4 «plait 1.&.1).
(tuner 10 ('01"I'Ulct Irlldin~ l'ysI(ln'" and Il> S. A R,UII!i~'o( Knil"'l.'llr IU~k!l (p;l,1:1t 150 lSI).
Nt"puler·:asdtd dc.sl.gn. il1l('rull'dl,lt~ bJoc:kJ \10 IJI be 9 A Rnntl.' u{ Ilody 8h.ll)( Ulo..:k. (or )tltlth
usnIIO(T"('-.'sln,ly. I htll dlllli C:11I1hi: IIlort'd lind rilbrtC) (r:tgt' 156- 1,,1).
n:c-.,lkd (Of r..pKl adHp"ltiuu lind gnldina. lhull
impN"ln, cOld~"..')',
 textilestudycenter.com
14

The Close Filling Bodice Block

ThI,).Ij' eM)( titllnll block. Ir ~1t4)till in, ",)'ks _lIh feu dan ;\.h.Jl)jn'~lrtI"(c,ultcd U,SCme (;t) fllu", bI'~1r:on
"",,16

MEJ\SUIt"M tN'fS R"OUIitEO TO DIIAI, lllE 1.....16 hnlf the "'C'I~UN"lcnlI4 IS.
800lel: BLOCK (C';(wnple size (2) 17 nudway between 2: "nd 14; ~qulI«: dCJ'An....'Ib a
Re(er 10 the ~ilCeh:trl 11'~g(II. rur liland",d bod) dOlled IInc h) point IS 011".Ii~lhne. ~nd JIOlnl19 nn
tn('i)urc:mCf'll$, Ihe hiphll~

.....
1U.pc: 10 \\'&ISI
8Scn,
4. en1
$houkll:r
b;'lck v.khh
12.2Scm
J..l • .acm .·roCI1
.,.-..ist 10 hlP 2O.6cm dart 7an .&-10 one 6nb II-I.'"eksize minus O~7cm...
annSo;."1'e <lcplh 21 em chC$I 3J:."cm .&-11 one fifth neck size: minus O.1cm: dt:M' In (ronl
n«t Uze 37t;m frOIU .should<r f1«k CUr\e 20~2l.
10 waist 'Iem 3-12 hulf chest ml'aSun:nn~nlplus b.;,.l(....Klt.bor
dart. square up,
Squ::t~ dO\', n from 0; squnre htdfw:ay- !tCM!I.S the bkldc:. .1-D heff the Rlcasurcn11:ftl J 21: squ.ln dov.·n ,,;lh
0-1 l .sem. .. detted llne to rKJilll 24 on ":al~lhnc;&nd 25 on
1-1 :trmtC)'C' depth measurement plU$ U..5cm; sqU3~ hipline.
....n>« 26 is the- b",,1 !'(lint 1.5cm down from 2.\; dl'2'a' 11
!-.l hair bU,1 plue Selll [l.e. ((Ir ~flc:-'nbu." (SS. 2) Ink joln n,. 2ft 26,
.. S ..91 SqUlafC up lind do"',,; mllrl: Ihll IIn< Ibc 20...27 (Iltrt \~,jdlh rncasun:n~nt;. dl'ltl\ Ia line- JOIn,n,
«nlf'(' (""" hne. 16 Z7.
J-I (ron I "holiidel' 10 wabt 1l1Ca:liurc:n\cnl:
~warc II-U I.Scm: SqullfC aut "I)pro, IOem 1019
h.tl( ... ), IIC'I"C'\$ the block (1'(,)111 II. 21-30 drll\\'" lint: fro", 27. ,ho'ildet lc:nlt.h
1-5 n..pe '0 "~i\l melllillfcn1CnI1341u.11't t1C'fO'.\ I~ 6, m('.a..\Urt'm(I\I. to touch me line frum 28 29
5-7 ,,;aI~110 hip IneIlJUr~lncnl:square1IC'fU'(~ (0 12-31 one third the measurement ~ .JJ
eeetre front liM. t.1~r"peiut 8 fthl'l gi\~ hlalf tHP :tl ,I. "IKi\o'''.I) b!:1\!JcCI1t.a ""1.12.1: )l;ju~re dcN.n "-llh
rnc:-"sumnC'nl ptUlI 2,Se:IU ,,;',k), • dOltro lint ro ptJint J) 1)11Ihe \~J,.jjdin('Arwi point ).4
on tbe- hipline>
Bscl.: Or.."l\l..nrmsc)'l: (IS shown I)fl di.\lgnamtoudun~ poinb
0..9 OtIc: fifth n«" $Ite 0111'q5- O,2.:nl; dr:a\lo In b:id II. 16. J2.. 31, 30: mC:l~ul'('mcnler the eul'\~
occk carve 1-9. slzO 8-1~ Ircm 14 2.Scm (rom22 lon
1-10 one fiftb armscye depth measurement minll5 sizes 16...20 fronl 1~ Jcm from 2.2 l.Scm
O.7tm: square h31fWl'J),aCI'U$l{ Ihe block. s.i~ 22 26 frolll 1-1 3.Stm from 12 Jcm
9-1 I shoulder-length measurement plus I em: dr;r\\' Dr.1\1o'round the outer edge of the sbapt (rom 1-21 10
hack shouldc r hnt 1('1 touch the Hnc (rQm 10, complt1c the bl~k. when sbculdcr $Um$ are JOined
12 centt'Cof 5hftuldcI'line. t' iJ e-~~nli"llhal the ncc:klind .Itm~o II~ $mOC'lh
11:-13 dm ....•n deued lillc 5C1Ulong ..nd ~1()pIQg CUt\TS,
!:awards Inn, ConJIruCI dnrt I <:tn ~'ide wuh this ltnc:
:as «nll"e (nlfttc bolh ,ide~ of ,InrI Ihe i!lfnC kna:1h.,
l-t.a h-;tlf b."k \\illih nll.::l~ur~lIlen'
plu> O.Scm (';a~. Skot\"t' I)r.lft;, ,1111:·111\,.'"\:(.'
,I\,."C"\\,(p.a,c 22. " .. :I ,,,U-
tiqU..lt'C"up 1015. PJ«."t ,.Ico\'t' (p;t~~24) h) li1 the IIrm~~ tnc')Slu"C"mcnl.
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 textilestudycenter.com
16
The Easy Fining Bodice Block
Fflr ~Il()'flilinlj dfl:~.:It)b lindC;\~)'filllns: ro.gllll' "net khnnnu~h"~

MIlASI'Rf\1F.I'ITS KI:QUIKPI) oro DR \fTTtlf 9-11 ,hC)uldcr 1C:!lathmC;I\"t'Cment plUi I mil to.Scm
BLOCK (c.~lIm,'I~).1,,\1 I!. C'I.~ Ql1d O,$<:nl !,lX-IMIIcnllth,. D..-d" b;a(k ,houkkr
R(,(Cf co It.< .aee ChllllllXlgc II~ (or 1I111ndlltd bl'le 10 tfiuch lilC line: rrom 10.
m('ZI..urcmelll\. Z-Il hulf back ,viIJth mc.l~utC:J'),cntptUf Ian ease;
tqU:lt(' ur h) I),
SSenl 11-14 hul( tlu: measurement 12 I).
bu"
eape 10 _"ist
.00.t:SI 10 h~p
4.20.6t:IU
ern
shoulder
I);;cll\\'wth
dart
ll.2.lcm
344 .....
7..... f....ronl
:JfllUC}C' depth 21cm ctl~1 3:!.4cm """'I~ one fifth neck SI:eC mlnu.~ O.7cm
neck-size 37crn l'ront shoulder ~16 cue fifth neck 5ize mlnes O..2cm: d:r.M' in (ront
10 W;,iSI 41"", neck Cl,In-c 15-16.
15-11 hnlr the lI'~lnd;u'd dOlt'rne-.t.J;ummn&.
3-18 hnlf Chl'$l measurement plus I crm, ptl1Shalf
SqU3~ down from 0; square h~"r\vnyacecss Ilk the measurement I$-17: square up.
bIocL. tS.19 hulr the:measuremem 3 16 min," 2c:m.
~I l.5an 3-10 half the measurement 3-18:)Oln 1S-20 and
1-2 llf"fMC:)'~depth measurement plus 1.S':m~square t7 2011)(orinn ~lilrt
11-21 I.Scm. square OUt (Scm to 22
W hair bust plu",7'~lnILc. for 88~1" bu.\.: (88 • .2. 17-13 drawa line fronl 17.lIhouldcr leolth
,.. 7 'CO 511. SqUl&JCup lind down; mll.k Ihis trne I~ m(':,\Qrt"nlcnl pili, 0,5(.',,,. re touch Ilk hnot rmm
C'Cnltc(ronllint. 21 22.
J-4 front -.huulder 10 \\111111 nU:~I\\lrcnlrnl. squ .. «,
18-2.4 h:tlr the me.uurcmenr I! 18;i41ua~ d~n 10
h::t.lr.... )· llIC'tm' Ih~ block (,oin ". poinl 25 on the \vtli!.;lllnc.and 16 on the hipllnc,
I ..~ na~10 \\.ti~1mell\Urrl'ncnl: l4Iu;II"c."em» 10 6
Dna,.,' l.rn,&c)'c as )111)\\(I en !.Il,ljJ'llnl luuc:h-na POI('I)
5-7 \\<1"' to hip Inea~UlenICIII: IQ t
MllI.lfe :K'J\)~~ II. 14,24, 19,2;\; IU.,:.I,"urClncnt or 'be ('un~
.!Jt.C$ 8 I.. (rom 12 1,_3t:m (tom 18 !.2Scrn
Sort $Ild '6-20 Ircm 11 Jcm (rom18 1.1Scm
0--9 00(' finh neck Size mmus O.2cnl: dm\\ In back Stz('$ 22-26 from 12 3.Scm (rom 1$ .l.lScm
n«k c""he I 9,
1-10 one 6fth armS('ye deptb I'ncaSul'ement mrnQJ Skt,,, DruO II one-piece ).1CCVC'
(p. n. or::l '''-0-
I em; squan.- hlllt\\"dy across the block. piece sleeve (page 2 ..) IQ 61 the arnuc~~ measurement,
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18
The Tailored Jacket Blocks

MEASURI'MP.NTS REQUIRP.D TO OllAr,. TIlE 1"'-11 (n,nt ~hl)uldl'rto W'.ti'lt m~~umnenl; \qu01rr
8LOCK (b.:s,nr1c: ~il'(!12) h..lf"ll), II(,'OS~Ihe blo<k from 11.
Re(er 101M \11.(' ,'hIli' (I).lse II) (ut !lUlndlltd 11...18 ene Uflh I\l."(k~I/<: plu..\ Itm Clan.
mc:'~UrtmCl'Il" 17-19 one liftb neck toile: dr:.w 10 nccl. C'un'(. JOin
pain, 181(\ 1)01(1\ 10.
.....
n."~IQ ~-;aI~1 .a Iem
SStnl !lhuukJer
btlc;J: Vi i(hh
1225 em
).I Jcm
18-10 ,.houldcr nlt'1ISlIrtIUt'111 phD dOln .lm.afK'C'
plu, (),$e.n (f!luS reduced d:lf1 111I4)'o\lIn«ptu).lcm) .
... lSl to hip 2O.6<m dun 7em 18-21 one thlrd shoulder- ntCJjuft'mC'nL
arnucyc depth 2l em ch-CSI 32.4an 21-21 dart measurement (hair d.Jrl mafUcanC'nt,.
n«k W:e 37crl1 t'n:llu !lhould(( 14-13 h:tlf (he.!it plu:\ h••U·the m(a~urt'm.:n' 11 II
IU \\'ai$-1 "em plu$- I em (3.Scnl). S(IUUrC up.
l3-U one third the measurement 14--19.
l_portHI ~'(lle The easy lining block has a reduced !.3--lS hlll( the measurement 14-23: squall." do.'ll to
cbrl for b~bu~l shaplug. Rerduce 'he )"ti)ndard d:1I1 l6 :tnt.! 27 (square up 2enl fot bus. polnl 25~
mc'~SUrmK'.nl by huU: The in'lruC1ion30 for the e:u» Jnin 21-25 and 22-25; ensure Ihlll tbc cbrtlincs an."
611mg block are shown III brackets, the same kng~h. Re-mark point 2l.
lO-18 l,:tn: join 28 22 wuh II tunc.
Squa~ d(J\lon (rom 0: square h~llr":1.)' ilCr'OS$ the bIod. U-19 half the nlc;t~urc'n('nl8 23: squan= dO\'Q '0
0-1 1.1San lU and 31.
1-1 nc.d. to "'.Ii",: lo.I,llI.lre"cros~ Dr:.\1,·ut",u'i(:)'e "" $ht}\\n In di~l#rnrn louchlnJ point"
1-3 fini~cdk-nalh: llqul'~ Ilcro..',,- 11. ~, 29.24. 28; nlCOISUrcmC:111 of lhe 4"Unn:
2-& .al~1 10 hip: square 1Ic:n:'~", (IVUl ~ (rom lJ
1..5 .rtI\~'C'deflth phl~;\cnl (SCIl'):~qu"rt I~ron 8 IJ 2,2Srtu t3CM) 1,1jan Cl.1ScmJ
1-6 h~1fI~ ru...;,~urCnltnl I 5. ~qu:lI('uut II> 20 2.7SClll(3.Seln, J 25cm Cl.1S(,n)
1..1 qu ..nee liIrnl!14')'f dcr1h nlCIl'iun:nlcnl:"lu.t~ \.1/(\ 22 2(, 3.25cIl1......'ln. 2.7jan t3.7jcnll
O.L
54 half ~(k "'Idth I)III~Ien, C3t'm): AqU,J.~ up 10
9."d 10
10-11 lan: square oUI. CLASSIC PRONI'llI)OESIlAPING
0-11 one GAb neck siec (plus U.Jcm): dra'" na.-k Add reqUtted but IOn SI:IOO.
CUt\C. ~4.. rl: flOinl$ .12 ;atld .lJ en \\'aiSlrint nnd h<mline.
12-13 shouldct length plus I.SClh l3c:m). These l3-J..I Ion: join 31-l:J \\-ilh a curve,
me:&S\lJ'CJDC"nlS seclude sboutder case of O.SCOl. 3l:-3S one third the- measurement 3:!-34.
S-t .. lulr bun plus Scm (12c1n):square up. sqUStt >4-36 one firth the: rneesuremem 31-34. dr.l\\·ln
doo--n 10 1$ lind 16. front carve,

Shaping the Blocks

The dni,n of the ''',,(111::I'IC"'in determine
of.be bJcx"k T"l) a:ll11p1c.. an: given:
STANO,\RD SIiAI1ING lined I.lc<\ignJ
l--..J7 t .jan; draw II curved lin\:(n)m 3() ".
J'7-JM I.~cm .• l-J~O,Sc;rn (I "'111).L)rJ,;\ Ncl wam
~ .. (>, )8. '9
Con~tnact b..ck :tl'ld fronl darts .1$ iho"n. b....:1c d:.,t t,
m,ct--.) bct"'C'en ~ ;!nd 8. (f.xt(!Jld back Il"d fronl
darb COhC'mhn(! \h:lplng In 2en1 lit c~lch hl!'m polnl )
Sh.lpr Nc-k Side sc:am: Jlhtll)e III b:u.:k WlIJ\lhnc- I.Scm
Clan}: ackll,Sc:m 1(\ hl~lnllll¢ (O.jcm).
Shape (root ~dc seam: shape in rroot w;u5llinc 2c:m
t1..san)~ add 1 cnl to ht'nllinc (O.Scm)
tM-lJb3p&Q~ SE~tl ..FfITEI) SriAPIN"G '.,\cn'$ SI)Ic'
W7 I.Scm.37-38 tC1n tl.~cm) . .l-39 t).jcm
CI.St'rn), Draw bllck seam tlae 6, )S. 39.
8-40 qU.ll'lcr urmscye depch mll'lu'" I em: ,qua~
aero)i 10 oil 011Iltllll'C)'f: line; '"'-1U;l~ dO\\ n 10 oil.
8-13 I.Senl (2en1): 11<1":"':dQwn 1"0.... llnci ,,~.
"So-l6 .1.$'111: draw in b.n:" iC:am hM IblOUSh potn'te
JI ...... J6 (J~) ''''~ JI. 42•• $ (46).
1'9-47 'lilt' lhlriJ Inelill-UrCrne'"23 29; Jq\Urt' ~n
10"8 on \~.Ii;.tllne IIt1l149 Ilena bclO\\ ,,;.m.lhnc..
Om'" In u leln C2cln) dlltl 011Ibl$ hn....
z.s...so 3c,n.17-~1 .s1:1n.l)nl" In Ion Clem, darl
on th~ hot' (COlllirlU(, the 2CIllshaping to the:
hmiline).
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 textilestudycenter.com
20
The Classic Coat Blocks

MF.ASURI'\lEN1·S REQUiRE!) oro !)RA~" THE ~Il h.llf back \\'idt" phl\ 1.5m. (4cm~; SoqU;ln: up
8LOCK (c\.lImplt' \t)'.(: 12) '0 Iland 14,
Rt(' to the )lLe thllll (1).1,1.: II) rOt lilandlltd 1......5 2cln: !!(IUllh;out.
measurements, 9-16 shoulder measurement plus 2cm (3.Sem,.
These me<l~urclnt:nIS include: $houldc:r Qtc of O.5cm.
.....
nape 10 ,,:alsl
SSenl
41 em
sboukler
back width
12.25cm
3-4."cm .~ront
",.. iSI 10 hip 2O.6cm drttl 7"", ~17 one fif,h neck gizl!plu$ O.2(m (O.6em).
armf,(;)"e ckplh 21 ern ch\'$1 32.4tm 4-18 one fiflh neck size plus O.3tm: drn in front
oeck size 37cnl from shoulder -rt cm neck C'Uf\'C 17-18.
to waist 17-19 durl measurement (half darl mt:a$u~enl).
Joil'll poim 19 (0 poilu 14,
Importaol Note' The easy fitting block has a reduced 19-20 the measurement 9-16 minus Ian.
d3n for less bust shaping. Reduce the standard dan !O--21 I.Scm (I cnl):join 19--21 \\;Ih:t strghl eurve,
m(:3;surerneol b)' h:tlf. The in1\I',ICligns tor the: C'a~) 3-22 half chcStplushalf the m~~un:~1 17-19
filting block arc shewn in brackets. plus 1ern (4CI1I), Square up,
22-2..1 one third the measurement l-18.
SqU;J~ dO\' n from 0: square h;)lfw.IYIICro~ tbe blod. 22_24 hulf Ihe measurement J 22 (sqU3t( up 3C1n 10
0-1 lcm. m:..rL bu~1poinl). Join 17 24 and 19 2:.& to form d:t.rt.
1-1 armltC)'c depth plus 4 COl (61:111):square 1IC'tt)U. 11-25 hulf Ihe 1l1C;j:(,urcmc:nl12 22; sqlQf'C dM\"ft 10
W half bU~1plus Hlem (15(ln) [i.e, for 8Sc:mbull: 26 and :!7.
(88 .2). 10.54(,011. Square up and <10"11, m;!r" 0,..\10' IlllnS(;),C;t\ "IIO\Io'nin di.lar:rm IGucbIR, poinl,
Ihis Itnc Ihe CCl1tl'C'front line. 16. 1).25.23.21: meusuremeru of the CUI'\~
l-4 front .).houldcr10 "'lli~1 meusuremenuMlU"~ frorn 12 (rom 22
b3Ir",,), act'O\!. the block rl'()l1l4. 8 i' 2.75cln fJ,2S('m) 2:2:5nn C2:.7Scm)
1...5 n~pc: to \'ilIi~tmeasurement plu$ O.5cm: lKI~t( 16 20 3.25clu (J,75tm) 2.7Scm (J.lS('I'l1)
~to6. 22 26 3.75<011 14.35<m) 3.Z5tm 13.75cmj
5-7 \\lIlsl 10 hip measurement: square ecrcss 10 $.
NOll' For simple shapes Ii.e, kimono block, for m:t.S$
Back production. equalize the side scam by makin~
~9 one 6nh neck size plus O.4cm (O.Scm): drmr.·in 2-25 half (he measurement 1-3: square do\\-n to
*1: tl«k CU rve I 9. point 26 on lhe \v;.listlinc and 27 on lhe hipline.
2-10 half the measurement I 2: Squan: Out
1-11 quarter armscye depth measurement: square S~'(' Orali the one- piece steeve (part' 12) or 3 rwc-
OUI. piece sleeve (p~St 24) to iii armscye,
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22
The One-Piece Sleeve Block

MEASURI,\lLI\1'S RI<QUIR!;1l I'() DR"~T fill 1-13 sleeve ICII~lh10\\'n~l: .....Ul8t~acfOl.Sbolh "'~)I$
O:-''''·I'ltCESL~~Vb UlOCK « •• ,mp" ,1,<I~I (or \\ rj\l line,
Re(er In the ...i;,,, chari f'),;I~~
'I) (\lr IItlindaru Squ ..re dowu !'t\lnl 1111111,11210",rDI line 10 m;llrl
m("il)lJrtm('nl~ f'C.'Ifnl.) 14 IUhl IS.

me-allure tbc urmscye Or.'lVo·In cuutnc ()f steevebl:'ad:

5~.5c:m 1l--9 hcnow ihe curve O.1Scm.
~7 r.:si$C the eurve I em.
to..-coal~ and easy litungj:tckcts add l..scm to ~~ 7-5 raiec the curve 2C::lnat x lOne"Iblrd or <bstaocc
Icnltb 7-SI
.5-11 hotl~' ibe curve 1em,
~.3. perpendeutar line Ircm the :trmsc:}c lim: 311
rouc:hing ahe front armscye. Draw in tine or wrisu
1-2 one Ihird IInn.sc)C'ftI('..I.i,Ir,:'n('nl(sizc~ S I" 14--13 lower the cur-ve 1em.
minus O.Scm. si7..d. 16-2'2minus O.:\('nl': square ~ 1.1--15 hollew the eurve lent.
3 rwdv.""3) between l nnd 2: squnre aCR»~ 141.(.on w For l'.ighl steeve
~hapingn"f't'O\II
s~~ al .. ri~
b::lCk ~~ Fine: milrk balance point: continue line. J-Scnl.
1-5 baJJ thc measurement I 3: nl:'l,k (,..,"1balano:'C' The cl~' line i..(in Ihe \\lli.sllinc or the blo<:Io:
pol"1 us s:hO\\'n. ~'111r" Ildj~ccnt urruseye polnl SA
.ith h:tlancc~inl.
NOI" II Is IIllj'K'l111UIIIblll "U 'cUI"cd me;a'UmnCtlls'
, ("lnl ~houldt'tpoint
are 111ra)UI'C(i\let)' ~Il,'turlltcl)' :.lIon. the ('uncd nee.
5-7 ,be me~j.urtnll:1\1or lilt: curve SA 6 rlu~ I em
The ~It't'\(' '" based eu the body t.lockj 10nl~UI'(:II
,plus l.l5cm I(JI~ Ie; 2U;plu~ 1.5cm ~;.tcs.!~ :!6r.
pc:rf«1 fit .11the unuscye.
JOtn "tilt .. lme, ~1I1r" 1(11) ...lceve b.lbll1l,(, I)Olnl oJl7.
3 ~"..houldcr I)Olnl.
or
7-9 the me• .sul'C:(fu:nl Iht curve 4 8 rlu.) 1em t:"\C' •• IlK- SIN."'c H"lliJ
(plus 1.1Scm .slT.tS16 20: ",IU$ t.Scm .silt'"' 22 26); The t'..3oC 11\ the sleeve bt:td Ii I.II".. ncd 10 P'c" (..11
JOIn.,Ib .. hnc. ~1~rt.:bllck sleeve .,;,13"" pc)!n! III II rou.nded eppeerancc II) Ihl:' steeve ~d. hn .II fblll:'r
10 t.Ik unck.rann poinl on Ilu: sidt seam. mOt"" "'Ih mseruon reduce the ease auowance III tM draft: see
;II ba..b.D« peem tlOtes S 7 und 1 9.
s..11 the ~\urtJncntof .he cueve SA 10 less 0.)
(m: joan ""lIb R hue. ~dd('d Sh()uhlt~
,_. J 1 IlK:measurement o r 1he curve 4-1 0 Jess OJ em: All the blocks and sleeves have 00 allewaece mctudctl
join "lib .. line. in Itw: drnrt for shoukler peds, If pcadstan: R'quircd
Sq~~dO'IIo n from 7 rtfer 10 the- ~"(ti('ln'1>::ldd,:tJ Sh.ouldt'r'$·(rtl. 8 ~(-'S,.
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 textilestudycenter.com
24
The Two-Piece Sleeve Block

MEASURI,\lLI\1'S RI<QUIR!;1l 1'0DR"~Tfill 0-7 2czII: l'quart ncrQ\j bOlh \\'It)s,

r\\'O·ljILC£ SLL~VI:. ItLOC'K ((,~Iu"plc: ,.ole 12) 141 und 7-9 lClnl:~U.ln: \I,,"n (rom ~ _nd 9.
Refcr to l~ ..iJ'<r char' rl);lj.;c II) (\It IIlandanJ 1-10 <.ltl.",'(tl('n~lh tel wri~l: square uero» 10 11 .lnd
m("il)lJrtm('nl~ 12.
I()...IJ Jcm: ~'I\iaN IICN:ct.
amuc'}'t' 1l1('.ISUI"C the ilrmSC)'C' 10-1.& cuO' r.1;(Cror 1\\'0'1).11,,'\:('
$1C'C'\~.JOCn10-14 Ilnd
,5«\(' k-nllih to \11'11;1 S8.$lonl 10 II
cuff $$I'Cl l3.1St:lu 1-15 hulf the 1l)\!<lsun;lncnl7 10: sqU:.tft ~
(elbow hne]. Curve: hmer .!Ik'C
....'C M:;utlS towards 2cm at
For c:oal$ :Ind e:i$)' lilling j:~ckctsndd 1.5(m to tmc euew line.
kn,.h and I em 10¢"ff !Iii'¢:. 01":1\\' In sleeve hCtld,
5-.1 raise the curve I em,
~t!trL:b:We poims on body blocl:. ~13fk polnl Iii: 4--16i~
one .hitd cbe me:tWft'mcnl
~i::'ll: point A ;11undernrm. B :'Illd C til ..houlder .0-3.
point.. ~ raise the curve 1.\116 2cm:J01U 3-8 \lo,tb ill eurve,
~t3.rl.pmnlS D :snd E 111base (If bn~$ \\'bic.b.Illl:' 6--17 the measurement ;\-8P on body block.
fqlUrM up tel touch the IIrmlOC)'teurve-, measured <;'fllight, rillS 0.5cnl.
Join 6 17,draw t1 curve huUOI.\"CdI.Scm
s..... Join 6- 9 wnh a '1Ugh! curve,
SqU;ttt' up ;and flCr()~,"(rom O. Jain 17-loilllldS 1~.
0-. one third 'l'm~)'.: n'~u ..uremeut, ,_qUlin:'ac-to)" '111rk point" 18 and 19 on clb0'4 hn~
1_1 one Ihlrd In('iI).'Urel"(1I1 0 I Illu~I <:nl. "lua~ eu",,,, Oilltl" slc"'\'~'$C.llllS OUI" ;lrd~l.lcm f2.Scm
..--'
O-J qu..nee the Incallu(..:n)cnl 0 I,
si/('< 16 20~ ~.7('tn ~ll.e~22 26).11 IS lind 19.

i'Olt It 1$UIlI'l()Mant(hilI aU 'curved me..~urtmcI'lIJ·

iIIrc mC;lJun:IJ "Ct)' 11\.'l:lIflJ'cl)'lillOi'll lhe cur\cd hnd
0. Block I~-~ C'llLllls measueeruem 0-3 on
Bod) wuh thl,! I;;I~upright (see dlJlgnlm)
~< bloc:k.
SqUO'ln: OUt 10 FI) (front pitch r<>inl) (In "rmK)'C". Ea)l" a' d~ Sl~, ...
, li('lId
D-BP tb3ct pitch point' equnls til" measurement 0--2 The: ease in the sleeve head is dra flcd. to gn't" a (uU
on s.~t b10(;l: .. rt>undcd ;'1'1)C~n1n<:e1(1tIll: s'(:t\(' bc.1d FOf.l fblleJ
In~nkln reduce Ihc C:lS( nIlO\lo.;In« In the 4r.. i« r.:
notes 3-4 and ~-S.
J-4 the measurement of the curve C-FP plus I (l'lt
(plu,_t.,!).em )iw 16 22: rlu~ I.Scm s~ lol-JoO•• P1ddtd Sbuutdr:fS
Jam 1~4 AJllhe blocks und sleeves huvc no :aU090"":l1X"('
included
....5 Ihc measurement or the curve 8-BP plll$ 0_8tm in ibe drafi (or shoulder pads. It p.ld~ 3~ ~wrrd
(plus lem ~ 16--22: pfns 1.21.'msixes 2-1 JO}. ",fer Ie) the ~ctl()1\ 'I"'ttltlcd Shnuldcfl,' (Rr. & p:l£C'
JoII' ~ S. -181
0-6 lbe measurement ..\-1:. en body bluek.
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 textilestudycenter.com
26
The Sleeveless Blocks I, is II ...mple m~lIer 10 draw Ue'\\ ..rm"i()c ~pcs onto
.. block or !Idllj"lh,"\lplll tern, I r" \\ ider finished shape
J~ I't'qUltrd.onen the uluJcr;lrm~am the requeed

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:amount bc:r()I'Clil:lfllns the '1rn1K)(' odilpl;tlion.
I SIMI'I.I! SINOI Ill'SIlAPES
UK 1he:d.,rlle~ block for \\0\'(0 fabric:>.,he- knll'lt-ur
r
I or lrOlck l'uil bh.1<:)cfOr jeNc), fllbrl(j.
I \1;1"<- I :2 ,1111.1
J .llhc ~IUlc IUclisurcmml! dot", In
I nee...
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~1111.t2 S :u1(ll&-6 the same U1C;L\URmml. d.r.rot. In
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! DART TI(ANSF1~R
Treee block «!quircd wuh reduced bust darting.
"otIl If tewered nrmscye 1.$ required dr:t\\ in :trrrlfC)'r .tupe.
Drop II \c,:I'IJt<l.Uncfeom base of bUj( d:a.n
Cut up line: "lose bust J:l.fl. !l.1ark poUlts I, 2:. 3. 4

_-- .1 ..~
2-5 is the measurement 3-4. Oro",' D«:W side scam. 1-5.

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3 THE CLOSE FIlTING S~E~VELESSBLOCK Ora" new IIrn\~)'C:dCl'lll1line I (m abo\'C ongan;sl tme,
TrAe'I:the dose 6uing bodice block. Nlark. points 16 \Ian. pcims lund ~ 1em in (ronl5'houklcrC'dge. ~1ark
Olnd31. ~101rkside seam 1-2. pcims5 and 61cm in and t cm up(mm 16and 31.
~ nC\\ $ide se:)m lifl~"$I.Senl each lIiQ("of I !.. CUI 1-1 1em, 1)(;)\\' 111;\\" 3rnlSC)'Cusin$ poinlS 3• .s. 7.
round bodice piOCC$: rc'juiu Ihe side seam 1-2. 6.4.

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CLASSIC IVAISl SIIAPING THE CLOSE PITt'INC SLEEVELESS BLOCK

ShilrlQllh-c "-al~tor the cll)'W;lililns, bloc~ ~Ult(',
hair tlk- \\;11)1mC~"~lll!ntcnlI)lull 3 ell' ease. Ttll~
MOn> t2cm ..h.aplng (1111~11.c().ShlilX' bl~k on Ih~
IJolt(d lin(:\.' ).$1:"' all)Jli.'k ,I(lrl, I.Sent UI b.tC:k ..Kk
Siam. 2.5cm Ile front $ldC'$~·IUII.
, ...( $!«\clc) .. block 1111)
ulread)' been ~omJ b)
Jcm 11\", ,nellO)! 1)(1" )h.II'",g (1111(il...-t), for "laJ.S..t(
"0:11)' shhpina rouow the \loul."\l ueec 2.SCI'I'I'1111b..ck
cJ.IIM.I ClU'" b:lc~ ~hl~-eom, 2cm lit (ront we \am.

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".~cln til (ront dlln 3_5c-m 01.1front dlltl.

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hX,\MPLe5 OF ALrliRN,\'IIVE 1V,\lST £.,ampk· I j\ de...isn (lIo\lo'in. 1he (bdP10I or Ilan

!\tIAPIN(i dt"flhultd into InOre dllll"
'rbe ";tISI .)hbPlll, CUDbe llislributl"() 11'1tillTC"ot "")S
depending on t1w- d~gn or block u!U:d. £).aml,lc 2. I)('slgo showing the cLimln:wo.a 0( tbe
rhe: ~h;,pln~ ClaDbe tttllI(..'1.~Ir t~ fillW (I}~"~ "Mk ~nmbnd an c:"sy filling ~-h"pe.\\'..ti, n:dPCtd
reqULmI. only 9cm.
 textilestudycenter.com
28
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 29
Part One: Classic Form Cutting
2 FROM BLOCK TO PATTERN

'-ROM OLOCK TO P,\TTI:RN

S~AMALLOIVA'(CD
I);\''''ERN INS'l'Rl;CTIONS
FAIJRI(- GR..\IN
LAYS

30
FroID Block 10 Pattern
I)RESS STANI)S ANI) TOIL~S
'1 15PQS'lbk 10 ('ul (\\It I'IdUttns without" dttj"
'IlInd ~t;ln)' ~plt whu sew for pleusure do no' h.;&\C'
00<.
"0'4'(\"(1', 'he) ~r.:U \'cf)' \',llullblc p~ o(
equipment. Studt'nt!lshould ccmbme fbll pattern
C'Ulhn,l"',Ih \1,0.1.('In the dr~s~ ~u'nd.~I~nkIt:~(
,hat kJok acup,,,-blt' UII :1 Iltll pitl."'eof p.lPft ",...n loak
ugl) :and distoncd on the rounded form of the bod)
or 1M dR'.SS llUnd. If .. dress stand is 1101M';;til.;atlk.
)V'u can 1ol\C the fisu~ of:t (:C)IIe:lSIIC
Ot lOut O\\n
bod). Tbe making of calico toiles is ~ntjul ~hcn
dcSI;nm;: ad\'l)nctd styles, ,\ dC$lgn toile i$.1~ patlun
('Ul OUI in (:IliO():snd mude up to eh«k und per(e.:t
tM eloign. Drupts and intricate cuts can be: '\\"OrtC'd
011the sl3nd bc(on: me loile is sewn
\Vh~ the loik ~ marte up. it llh(luld be 5«0 on ;a
mo\lng con.likltr the I'In)J)OrllC)ns.and to
figure to
CftJ.UR1M eeeect ameunt of ca.;c ha,. been allovow.
TIlE P\TTER,
Tbree tJ.rrcrtnl t)j'k'S of 1)llItel'n lire "",,-d b)' desl,ncN
.. hc-a draft,"s p.lHtc:m~11 locIIt~,"bllry
10 knO\\ lhe
dltrft'C'n«.
Tk 8hK:k rlal'('f" ., is the b'I,Ic: p~llIt:m INII Ii u..k'd
"" • mm ror IiU .1d.lplllliolli 1"hco block. Polttem Ij
traced Of '\II h«frd' onto pallern ptlpcr 10 prooycc the
.'Orkl.ng p;lltem.
TlK- \\orkillJ: '·.tl('f". ~,ili lISl"<l(Or nllimn, OUI 1M
b.»ic:' SI)lt hnes lSud dt'sis.n reJI\un!'\' «('.S, poct<u.
eoIbts. buttonhole pialo:iogs., 1·I'ttetll SC"CI~I'I$aR
1rac.W ofT -and mily b<" furllter ad>1plc:d.Complicated
st~ksftU} nred n number of trlliis :.'It this stage.
Tk "'IO~Irllll(·m, •• i~the Pilltc:rn froiD"hit" the:
",rmcnt ~;n be cut. It must be clC:;lrlym....tkcd "llh ~n
1M mfOrmalion required tor luuking tip the 13rmm.L
Befo~ C(ltnmcrK:inglll\} adapullinn the foIlO'l\",'
poinl' Ihould bC' e;:C)n~ldcrcd:
t. C'hoc.hc the carreel hlock~ /e,s. If., bam'l~r
u)1c i" tequ!l'td \I~1''' (nsy tiltin~ Ih,)U~ bloc-k)
l. lXade Ihe' length: I(,pp,thcn or .hj)r'~n Ihe bhxt.
3_ l)tadt: If :In)' elllOyntti""llfIUM:)'e ili n!quln:d «SIX
I~'('f\"d orm~)'c
h:f. Z3 1}.lgc:.s,I),
GOOI) LIl'-I,S ,\1'1) ('UllVI!S
Rcfc.r 10 the dlOlgnlMIi 011 Ih~ I).IM.~
npJ)o~ilC.
\\"h<n draning p:lllern~ It is ~~~ntl.lllh"l hno ..nd
"",r\C"-1n: .!otnuc1lh.:1$ 'Illy UIII;\'!:n IInc) \\ill ,hO\\ ~
un_sjgbd) bump~ on the finished llarlll~nt.
textilestudycenter.com
I \\fhell :I (I,Irl,-td Une meers n ~If1lI,ht 11M It mUA
Nn hUG h )"1001111).
mu~t bC' pc,rC'C't ~tfILc.
1 :-';C'Ckand :.(ln~(:)'c CUr\!:'_,.
;>Ul"t':III dc:dan tllJVclI "T\! bc:'Ullrully ,h:apcd.
c."pedully where 1"0)' mI.'(l It fC)ld hn¢. 1'f(1)Cb (Ur\'C)
an: \'('1)' usC'I'ul for dr.I\.,.ing cuned L1no.
.' Pauern pie«i IhMI«re 'CUt lind"r~d' (;In 51\( an
unt\'('n ocrnne. 1)"'1\\ II J:J I) snu,lolh (.'\1:0 line.
-' when a dan l'l machined the bOUC'or lht chri K
dt-.Iv,11Up"'(lfd5: this ereatcs ~I'V' sh.ap:.. C ompcftSO'llt'
for thiS by :>h:lplnt; thl:' base of tbc clatt dOO*oI't"'3rd)on
the seam (-').
C1.OSE FIlTING BODICE DARTS AND SEAMS
\Vhen the \\'Orking peuem b. c;:ompictcU the darts And
sesms of 3 eJC):iCfhlin$- bodice can be sb2pCd 10 Pc :t
bener HI. J·(QU-"C\'Cf. ill most mitiS prociUC'ljon palltms,
the sea m land dart IIne~ rtll.:un ~tr:atght
5 To avOid lihal P Itoin" at the buu thanen lhe
ItnSlh or Ih~'b\l~ldun lind rront ~:tisl ~rt b)' lan.
6 land 7 To aehicve II nll~d,hllpc- .Itound lhe
d~f'lhr'Olt::n'.curve Iho lIid.: searn ",.,hll) In)\"anh (6)
Jnd Ihe bu,t lind wl,I~1 dafb ,~hahll) l),u ... rdJ (7 .and
8), Th, .. ."elhod CIIlI IN \10:('(1on the Judr ~ .. tb ('If 'be
sl('e\'(' (tt)
1)., fIt"~II~('Ihl,v 1I/{"'f(#I"/l '~1"
J."'ff.
D., flO' o,t',.fhll/H' (nulxlmunl Q,jan daru. 0 San $Jde
and "k'('\'C "C,lIM(),
PRINCII'LI!S0111'A'irl:.RN ~lf\KIN(;
Thl; rotlcm,jngt:htlJ)lC~ (Q\'cr p;.lh:rn lJdospcotllOn"
m;anipulalil'l# the bltlCk 1(J make;: difl'Cl'C:nlde::s:itns,
s.a.s.c principles :lfC common 10 many pauc:m ~~
these $.hould bf: ('()I,sidcri."d~rore one btsins.
Seztm Lines ••• :.t pallern piC'C1:t.Jn be CUI ~"f(»>
\·crtically. horizonlall),. tliu£:onully. wi.h t'UJ''t'd lind
ttc.; \\bcn Ihe Sl-"'Ctiollsnrc jolocd the pallc:rn plett will
b;t\'c:a st~m. bUI lite ba'\ic s:h.l~ I'1!m:tltlSthe: f;ln~('.
Dart ~haping ean bt: Ino\cd 10 scam hnes j,O thallbC'
shaping n!n,.nlns hut the ,11In dis::,ppears (m 2 page
iW),
Stilipc'. ,II JI.llfn'C'111 \,':Ul 61 4.'10,<1),to the 6,1,1,,\ be
Ji('ml.(ildna or 1,'/1&), IillinS in (h.lf'K'.,Thl' '" ilchk"\~
b) "sins the blocks \\'hh (lr \\ Ithout 'Ih:lfMn,
SoUle:<s:lmple~ fll' ch.IlIt:I,', or P......Ut'f" ,h.'lpc:sa"
",deilln, 1111:O'UUIIC., •• II\,tcrllll, <\Ina. bod)' C4I-:!IC.
hidden ~hllpc:l ,., ,l.Iddl1l~ pl('-lil" and &odel~
pun' ..nd bC'UlIhlll)!!$..• ,nddinit \I, idth 10 ,he
d~Il!-11h)' ,uck-. ut g,ltheN;
eoDe ~tUlp:$, .••.• "'i..tening the- h.c:mhot' o~
 31

. ... .. ' .....

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,
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l\dcU"'1t1·1t'('C5., \VIII:I1u~ll)ing 1)(I(l:Cl, J'N:plum1. aood line> Ilnl.l ,lIllre", \Vhell I:unin, Inlne.fC' ~11C'mc
r;anC'l" ft;t.P'- cCCcon,idtt cnfl:full)' the b;.lln~"Cof the ,.mIlIlIlJnOunt~ or the b"'ic bloc'_' nl,l) be ~ ot
""'$l'. .mlall p..rl~ .ttldc:d, 11o,,' 'nu~h eee on do Ih, ..
Bod) ,\lo\flItmt , , ,In ,IIUI'( ~ld\,:,t1c.:dI""ctl:tn cutlJ"S dt:ptnd~ on one\ ~killllnd 1:"pc'1('n4~Th3c'" "'h> " I)'
p.lIU (If bod.KX'): arc lidded 10 ~lee'·C'(.\\then \tolLln, se d,ftlC'ull 10 CUi the ~ublle ",h.lpcs lI(h1C'\cd by our
the-e db;,n, ,11,,01)," IX' (l\\',H~ Iluu the body n,u,1 M iop dC"'i@-ne>tiil,
lib'<: 10 fIK»'C. II tS onl)' on wlde full gunnerltJ thaI CUlltll# indh'Jdulll g.ltmcl,l:i J;i\n dC'SlJftC'f'J-
much
'l:'f) laDlpl( ihllpC'lOC:IO be used. more' freedcm: Iho)' nee nOI fC's,lnclro b) tbe pm
Bn.firul Sh.~ it j, .11\\·u)'1In«t$.._~lr)' to' hlro": Irn'l1)~nd Ihe r.,btil,~used ill ''''''$ "rod~1OtI
 textilestudycenter.com
32
Scum Allowances
A dtslgnpotu.,"~h
:5ItUtm II"," ~

,
.-
•
•
I
•
1. • •
I I

L. •

• I
,I

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Il ..,,' •
i "'" I
I~
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•

I
~fanurOteCu~rsrequite finished pauems to h;.r\"C seam Fabrics thal frJ)' e,lsily ",ill require v.i.ckt turnings
al~'3nc:.n added. Some require their ddjg~f'$to e$peti:llly around facings a nd ~ollilrs.
ad:tpi patterns from blocks .hlll'"~3d)' include 1M The \l.-idlh of the seam aUO\\'anCC" must be marttd
$I:01m;atlO\o\"3nce.This is n dime-oil "I~" for:t bc,inn(1'.
.1 il> bttlcr for tolude,"s 10 \\'ofk with nell patlC'rM
on thl: pauero by lines or I\olches.
No IICIUI'I 1I11()\\'.ulce is required on " (old line.
(thok" .ithout seam allowancej: ('sp«i~Uy14M" It iii imporHlll1 lhnl seam allowances add<d 10 (he
dr.Jfllns compliC:ISledstylei. The seam tlllo" ..nee (;In p:ll1em 'Ire .1C."Cuttllt
,Ind cle:l,l)' mart~
be- Itddcd.Oc""al'dll.
Se.am allO\loOtncc\\idlbS Vilr)' ,,·ith the ')PC ot TOILE ('1\,' ERNS
m"nurlll."u~ lind ttl.nncili. '1'1u~ tollowi"S c~lImpk\ II If; nOI nc.«'losaf)' 10 add seam 1I1t0\\1Intej; It (hi,
..~ III &n1C'f'ill gUIde, Stage. the)' can be Illlll'l:td dll'('(ll), on tbe C;;tbeo.
6a\l( Snll~
I.Scm.
t." ~tdtsc.lln~:II)'I( \(.Ints • I 10
INDUSTltlAL IJA1*1'~ltNS
£.Iosf'd ScanlS e.g, collars, cuO's .•. O.Scm. The $(':311) hncs are not marked on IhC':K'pilileru. The
HC'ftlS deplbdepcnd ..onll-h:'I>e:tnd fini~h •.• I 10 Scm. ~m allowance is usuntly .!lUlled In the maltln,: up
Deecranve scams usually require Inon: seam speeiflcation und only varying seam alJo-<lJK'CSwill be
al~ 'aace, marked b)' notches.
 33
A ~uon l)8t!erl'\. Pattern Instructions
s.m tlflO'S ftlfl
not ma.<ted

I$O/I~
alit! I ~
IIOC."',
",If I 1)& ..

• •
•
•
•

-.. •
SD/10.1..,.12 ,
tut1 (\I" "'"
•

•
Q 1SOllOOwe 12
i t~("'12pw

To ('nable' lbe' garment to be made tip cerreeuy 1M 1, Construction lines ••• these: include- d3tts.
foll""ln, in$tructioni m~1511)( mllrl:.c:don I~ bUltOl\t,(),e;s.. I'QCkcl plrl(:lniS- Iuck'k. pkoal lintS.
f'Qllrrn deecrative ,'ileh IInc;e.These linC')life m.. ,k.td on
I TM namr or each piece. the pauem or shown by punch hol«.
2. ('cnltt bit!:" .Ind centre from I, (.ifnln linc" ,. to It(:hk\t tt.< clTc<t )CHI f'fqUI~.
1 The num~for pi<'l."d 10 be CU, )'01.1nlUl(1 un~eKtllnd Ihe:('Irlllt:lpicof pLac.nl ~
~t raid,.. pauem (Ill II,., correct ,"lin or Ib~ r.tbric(\.((' U\'"CI
5. 6.al.ncx- mark. .• Ihr't nrc UM:d10 maL: 'ure ~~,,),~tltrl:the atintlhne
""tlh lln IIr~' ~1..tk
p;&lktn PK"CC':'Ire M:"~It lugetJh~r III 'hI!' COrfUt Ih(' tr.lin lint'son the "',}ri-.ina Jl"tkT'n bc(O((' II Is
point... on up inlo 'Ccll(lIl~,Onee In pl~ II Q.n be
6. Scam ilU()\\J1)Cc.s.~ these I,!UII be n'.ltk('d b) boo d,ffieuh 10 (hid the correct gruin on cocnpl......tnf
roUJ'JdlbI!' pauem Dr nDtchc:o.,II ellf.'hend or 1M pattern KCllons..
-e.. m If a poillem j( nell (has Ill,)1I1::ijnt 9. 1~llc:rn.lIil,e.
alro.~). mark this etc..rlr on tbc pauere 10. SI)1e no.. e.g. SI)/103.
 textilestudycenter.com
34

-, ,/V
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. "\ .

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\ /'
'\
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.--
1\ <,
.
.
.
. /} :-

)/ r ./
<
.
». I I\. <,

fabric Grain Lays

AU .-cn'C'n fabriC5 ha\'c warp threads and ~--d\ thrnds.
Tbe .'3tp thtudS run parallel to the scl\'edSCof lM
fabric ..nd an: the strongest: the \\'en threads run
across tbe fabric and arc weaker.
II ts good practice 10 have the vertical lines or the
pattern running p;tt"dUelto the w a rp thn:;;ds. r-"'krn
pi«csc:an be cut on the cross for the following ~.aJOn.s:
~ .'"HtUU!i .•. stripes lind checks CUI3t difrettnl
..tn,ks can pmdl..ccinteresting designs.
'l.'1mII1 SIll'cch ... rubric cut on the <;1\)5)hla~ n;atun.1
strttch characterisllc,.; lhi~ ullo"..s the pauem 10 be
(\11 .. IIh less ease, The dc"ign then ne the fisu~
<towly but ~mllinj ccmfortnble.
I),.", (old, dr..lf)CS:111(1softl)' Ranns sklrl~ h!ln,
betler \\hen (UI on the cress. 'rtu: c:O'C'CL'I
of cUII,n, on
1M crou are mcreased b)' the chclce of (.Ibn~ I Co
C1tpr:Jt. QUO" ;Jnd $Oft \\'oollcn~
O~ the grain haJJ been decided nnd nl;ttkal on tbe
pattern .• ~;ays check thut )·OU have laid it on (be
fllbril: corr«:tlr befon: cuulng out. or ... distortN
garment ",11 be produced,
Cost IS'~f)'hnportanr.tberefcre C'lvnomnl bys are
required b)' manufacturers. A '13:)"(or m:ttktt) is Ihe
plan of the pattern pic()(:$as they are placed on tbe
fabric. Fabrics that have 10 becut in one direction arc
usuallyvery uneconomical: fabria that 3UOIo' (he pieces
to be laid in bothdirectioes will reduce fabritCOSlS. The
pl"3C1K:cof S<1\tinSfabric by laying pattern ~ac:ross
the fabric or '00' the grain' should not be attempted~'
:l boca-inneras this practicecnn ruin lIl'lrmenl.
\\'hen II de~ig.ncrSlIbnlits 3 .ample. :I ~I b) plan
is made. usunll)' of two gannents, so that an accurate
co'i1in, ean be produl.'td, This mOt)'be dOn( In \at')ln;
""dlh, of Iabrlc,
If Inote than one fllbtM:' ISu.cd In a prmC'nl, more
than one hi)' ph.. ! ",ill be Inadc:.T~ c:otl«lion of
pauem pieces required for cafOh101.)'5 ""O\"n a~ ..
'model', La)' plllllnin5 and m:,rlt:c:r maLin, b)
eomputer nrc incl'Ctlsing I1IPldl) a!llhC' cost of )fotcmS
IS reducing. 'rhis method increases efficllC':DC)·.
t.h;al IS the
ptrocnl3gc ~lrt';lof fabric IISl.~b)' the pauem \tll)f.:l
mancfacrcrers nbu for 80"/. ulilization o( the' fabrIC.
 35
Part One: Classic Form Cutting
3 BASIC ADAP"fAl'10NS OF THE
BODICE BLOCKS

OAI\rlNO nl~ 9ODIC~ p:a~.J1>

I LOW CUT I'ROl'<TS 3$
2: S'fANOJ-\RO Ul.rrrO~l!O..RON" 38
J oousce BREASTED ~'I(or-.'T 38
'" Fl" FRONT 38
5 ASY~1~IETRlCALFRON1· J8
6 SHIRT FROr-.'T J8
7 OUST OART I, VERTICAL SEAMS .l()
S 8UST DART IN CURVED VERTICAL SE;\MS .l()
9 ausr O~\RTIN HORllONTAl SE~\~'IS ~o
10 OUST DART IN CURVED SEAMS .l()
II IlUST DART I!' TUCKS n
12 ausr DART IN OATliERS ~l
Il susr DART IN PLEATS 41
14 GA'IIII'RlD BUST St.AM ~4
IS \\1",1\1) O\'l:;R I RONT ~4
16 DIIAPEO ~ROl'<T
17 CLASSIC 8LOUSt
••.6
 textilestudycenter.com
36
Oi\RTIN(; THE BODICE 1-0
Positions of bust and shoulder darts Give SHAl'E FOR THE OUST
ANI) SllOUlDER BLADES
~ It I, n«c"S.~r')to (Oft~IC'r the
shape (If tM body 'AMn cki:i£f'hnS
II OOdh.~ ~.\tIhl1 ~lll~ do nOIhi:
t.-onctrncd ...111'1 "ilJ'" d.Jnf" the)'
1111:UIIc"\lIO ;h.apc lhe- ";lJ..' onl)'.
f).ptruu.:nl 'A-11hIbe bu~'and
sbculder d.lrt) ...h....b p.1wJdt: the

..... ~hapillg (or bml and sboukkr

blllde~
"r1lC11J)<W11o~ on the boWcf
blo<:k 1lA! shewn the dr.u\inp.
00

Armscye Tbese pcsmces (Ilft bit moved

Centre shoulder Underarm IlTOUOcj the bod) lIS Ionf .u the
point of the dart rc:nuins at the
pohn or the bust or shoaJdC'r
blades, Sec di:.gr.:lM oppo5ite. Tt)'
I>\Vin&ln~tbe darb to 01:\\'
position~

0 u" O"r'
''''lrl" Slrau/fh·r tmtt round (mnt

.... .... bodlce blocl.. Dr~ ~lane rrom

c~nlrc ~h()uldl:r 10 Ihe polht
bU\I, CUI up the Imt' ClCho(
or 11'1('
orlghll.' d"rl OInd1oC'(U~ _lIh .upe.
Neckline Centre front French 'I'II~bust d.an "now an ernl~
~hou~jc, f'W)1iuon P, tbe _"",n,c
method li"n.srct bu~d~n lui
U"(lrlur,,, AmUlJ" ,\ rric'II".'
:tlld Qr",I't' fitJltt
,,"t'//I:h OUtt Ihi<e cb.n ccmbmes
bust dart and rron' "'''il.61dart.

""'" " nl
.... 'Iraee round fronl bodt«" block.
dr;t\\' In the \';list ;Chaping. One"" a
line from a. point ott .-ai-it side seam
to bu\it perm, CUI up tht: fiDe.
CIO$C bU!(1darl ;.and front "'<1i)1
dan 10 fna"!: II \cry brgc dm ttl
base or side seam, This tars" dart
Neckline Armscye ~'II"be p~ce.J 4'1the- -'1liQ posiljon

~
<,
':0, N(lIt \\fheft lhe bu}1 dOl" ,. 1ftlh't'
filial po!thion tor the do;i,gn.
shor",:n h by 2nn

U~ek Sbolllck'f f)lIrt

J\'c'(/i, IrQ" MuDd ~~ bud~'t
hhx:k. On,\\ a line (ronl n«k to
ba'« of ,h..,uldcf dlltl. CUI uplbe
line. C'lo/IC &houktu-doln. 8) the
I" f- • SlUR!.: m-clhlXllr.&n.'i(Cf
durt to:
shoulder

"'tIIU(IT OlltU SlkJuhkr lillllll,

 37
Other positions of bust and shoulder darts

--
''''''''''' ,
, ,

,---------
--:1--
,;1.....
-i---:,-"'" -

,-.--"---
_.... ....
«fill ....ffOt'lt

Centre shoulder Underarm Armscye

t
r
::',
•

- " ....

Neckline Centre front Combined bust and waist darts

•
J-_,
c_••
"01'1
',
....
J
_~J --
f

Neckline Armscye Outer shoulder

'·Ot.
 textilestudycenter.com
38
1 2 Ol)cninl:~
10\\ ft; r rRO' 'rs
I (J'IIII;I.IIIK'\\." can ppr »I (rocl T.
"",«<t. Mt'\C..,...., .uri 10..sen ....
po..llillnI),•• na:lltnc_ 'tde uu1l
dllli ~I"rl'\\ It ben1.. uScfrum M\:\'hnr
to b\l'" I"Iunl (1o~dla" Cor~t
~lIlIhll)'d'~ll'rlal n«k"n.:.
-o
l S rANIli\RI)UUTrO/'.~O
-o I lION I

00
.\'1ur" button hoki
(bultontwl<, O\(1'bp
II~ bUlton~nd
._1iM
OR crntft (.ronll.anc'
by 0.1em t.
..J'PRU... Uc;Id.; lhts
\;lt1(1. .llb Utto( boltoa. Fold 00lC'I

line. .-h«t tbrougb the oatli:ar ad

I. (lIt.nallne10m....C'«lC'Odcd r~

) I)OUHLl BREASTED fRO:-'l

3 AIII:r I'l'tlllfl( to .b;:tpc rcq~ D,~ ..
in ,"" hullon bn(!I.,~-wl dIStaD«'
clleh lude ur t'eliltC (ront ~tll,1r:
hUllon1luk", (~, \IOInd;aN fronl) Add
bUlh'ln~'!lnd\Yh«lthmugh ~p;lIf"IC
filc:j"tI
-o
0
0 o
•Mlxh,Il'IRO:-'1
.. ,., \<hI
_I01N.Jnd lO
a;1.'I1f'f
In,nl I".... • ~ \tllI;"
0 o 4 l.nt A~ In C'\1,nUoMto (n.t cdpt
~(nl bell'*' "111~hhft(.Dd ~.SaD ... ,
Ih'.11 \\nhh f1r tttitchtn( \\1ted lhmvp
n fncing \Io'llhthe same t:1~
~11.11 k \'cl'1kJ' bunon.hoks on eeeue
rlOllt lme l.t racing.
ert I-rent Con<tfUC'litA. (ront u "
I....
'it.llld.lrd buttoned (mnL

l ,\SYMlIIlTRICAL FROl>'T
rrl*~C'complete(ront 0( ~ ......
bullO" Ilnl'. ma,\' bqllOaMIo.. ...
butlolst.nd Or:w.III~ \Iw.
iotpilrllC ',,(lns·
lr;ti,'t Itn ('~nt to hulWil .... .dd
5 butlon ..l ..niJ anJ ntC'nd r......
'
-o
0
o t, SIIIRI I RO)'.T
Itl}thl I:,nfll .llIt! bllltOft}tand I ~~m
-o \\'J\li! I)rllw II hne I jcm In (rom eenue
('\1,11 \Vh('~llhrou.h (root str,Jr ~,,,,t.
ill \'~IIIi,111bUII~n hoki- on «n1A' (ronl
lin('.
1,.('(1I>ronl Add buuomu.ad Md A.ft
C.\tcndtd (....aft. )t'ftl .-.de.
 39
1 low cut front
,
,,
f~flfl""

~."I ....

•, , -,
-_I ...,
..\,
, ~,
I
u.
.... ,_ J~
u •

3 Double breastedfront
,
...
c.'It' •

,
• , ,, ' ,
,
•
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..
,, '
) ·••
,•
.....I .... - I
• • I •
~
• • '/ •
• •• ~
.... u
,
,- loft-

5 Asymmetrical front
~_r·.,
.... __ .. "
;r-~
6 Shirt front
-
•
•
I
•
·
I
·•

-- -
I

....
~n
.,.,
••
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bWlIQllIiN

, I

...,, • •
.' .. ..._
I,
•,n
,.
..... '11 ... '
U'

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f
,, ,..,.,
.to
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hn_
•
 textilestudycenter.com
40
I)~RT~ I' SF \ \IS
7 8 O.irl,(;lft 1w p...ad. iQ,01. if ,h(:II('"m
1('0 Ihrou,h IhrblHt poutl If l(';UR e
II~") fron'l ttkbu" poIl\l.I ,..ndM, Pf
fol\oC ~ ,11.1,11 he r'nl'Ilftld to pc ~pc ,~,
thchu\',tll •

7 IIU,lf)\RTI'\lRTI( \1.
Sl",MS
trace RUln,,1"''''ICC bkM:k R'quu\'d
I)r.lw Il hlte (rum boa"l sboukkr ~r,
10 lUI' or \10 •• 1.";1iJ:ln_ Tran$ler bu,l d.. r,
In centre shouJdc:r. Cut OVIf'iilMI
~llon" and Irok"'C' mUDd.
Cunc p.lttcl aDd SlICksc:ams~,sho<Ir. II
o St."pc" ".;aJsthac .d. ba:sc d' ~
o
o 8 8l.ST DARTI' CLR\ED
"~RlICAL SE<\MS
1 raee round bodKC' bkJd;. rcoqvltCd
DN\\ In OIled SIde ~~ ud t'UI''C'd
p.melhn~; dl"il'A in fC'qlJlrtd "mount
nf \~III\t~h.lp'n,
onI~ hrl("\. Dr;~.1
Huett\)ln (ronl pancllo tM base of
hu~1dll'I
('ijII.UUl'-1ncl ~Itoru..lra« round
('I,,~ bu...' dol" ~ lnn"(tf II to ",,*1
I IInC'~h .. pe ~"Jn_",~pc _"blllrlC' .I.'
N\(' or J'olMt"
9 HI \1 DARr I' HORlLO'lAL
Sf A \1\
1 (.Ice round bodJ« bkJcok rcqw.rnl
fI""k ,o~C! OIll'A 1D tack )'P,"" 11M,
9 10 )11lJ'(II d~n 'em IOG.l'llUC)~cd.Ic
from b.;1~ or $houkkrd3t1_ CU1.1V.0'I)
)ok(; cto-e lIhouldcr d...rt, Ora_ In
Sl.lu,I!''eneckline,
Il:u·r.: OntA' paMl hn.:., potnJ$. I 1
0,..,'01.~h,bl "olD' sbptn" Cut up
p,lMI Trace muod b;ad. pialltent
.f~t rr..
nilct" bIIsl d:m to 5ak p.tJKI
o • linor ,),..,. tn "q~ acd:_ ..ad (tont
00
00 )"'''(hM(:8.I"~ )W Mdtr.«
00 {\-lund (1oll< bu't d:ut.

fU III sr o, R\
D \RT 1100 (1)
SlIlM~
I race r\ulnd th.ldl...
~ b5od; ''''luuC'd
1)'11\\III l"'ln~l hue" on bIoc-~ (·UI Inlo
~\l,h1"\'Irilt.""("round tcw.C'r~,junto.
IIjl~k \ .."" L:\IC'mJ ~c..dAn to C\J$t:
01 )okc t·lo~ lWrt
Ck>;< buSI cbJt
','rofll \0"'(,
 41
7 The bust dart in vertical seams

n
..... .-
.....
,
,
'''''''
GI
""
• od
I ,,
,,
-
.... ,,
J~
u

- .- - --
L

8 The bust dart in curved vertical seams

~. trOt'll

,
.... ..
" ,
I ,I
'

,
......,.......,'c...::..:;..;.:J
~__''''''''',.aJ .._
• "'" ,-
9 The bust dart in horizontal...seams
'" ....." - _......."';:iI>Hl!~II.
,~ " .. ~ro----
" .. '
"\. ,, ~,
't, \l .. &1 0 ~ ('O~ r1
, ~

-,.
.-"\

I~
...
.
'~ ,, ,,
"
..... ...,
I
. ..
e

~
v \~-,-,.
(
~

!
~
u
J~_ - ...........
10 The bust dart in curved ~seams
, _10 yOI<,

:;:II:

•
..
-
n ,,
, bon1
, , I
,
.. .. _ ... -
..," tld~bodl' ,,- ~
u
1.
 textilestudycenter.com
42
OAKI ~ I' f~Ll'ESS
11 OJr,,, can be- pbl."C\J in fu.~,- '.
tuc,"", ,;aIMh ,ad ~

II IIl .. r Oi\RT I' TLC,,"S

, r,K't lilund tIodl« bladlt'qUUN
1'lIfI,fer hu\t d"" to uftdnwm
C!,!,ltdo\~n ~Idc W' .. m 10top 0( ct.n.
,'ukC'Ii 1)101" In )'OL( 1an6. evl 11\\"').
c;1()~"bltck dllft. Orol\\ In ncC'~hM I-or
wid" IH.\:Llinc" n.lffO"· sboukkr .,
IIfltl'C)t: or b.t(k and (ronl )'Ok.-a
Oat'" ') r;ICC round back ioettlOG •
Or~ \ crtlClllloc
.. ,(Hit ttuo..a,. buSt
pomt. (ul up Ihl\ lillie C10st ~
dan. Tracerood (roat ~
.Uo-tn, 2an pp bct1ro"'ClC!J \~
1 ( bnei. ~1..rt. four Iuds 011tk lOP'"
of (ront SILC!or tua b l~ c1isu.nct

12 I 2 d" rded b) 4

12 IIUST DART 11\ GATHERS

1)1'11"'ruund bodkc btock requimj,
('lIl up ,Ide seam
I'~~k 1)l'I*w", 1M(l. J'lQ-nri. CUI up
linc", 'I'r.ltX olund p;lMb.. Ckwc d."n
.ron' "'lIft'{C' bujl4;an to ..ndc-r.a,m
I)rjl~'In )~LclaM;.. It baJa.Dc'C
poln., Iln,p .. \Cft..:al_ (nlCD )v,"c
Ih,,,u,'" bu\1 poult C.t a-a) )"U
('UI up \ctt.al .... opca.3aa C10tr
undcnirm dart, InKX~ J*kr'a.
~'lI,k buuonhoks. \dod bu110niUnd
\ .Ind r"Ctn, 10 centre front..

\ 13 !lUST I)ART IN PLEATS

Trace round bodwe bkH:k R'qulrcd.
1,..,,\\'ln (ront panel line, Cut up p;locl
line. 1'rlln.5(cr bust dan 10 pand seam.
Dr,l" In bile," )"0"( line. slope: dowt.o
Ic:m at armSC)" (rom b;,uc 0( sboukkT
dla,t. Or". front )'Ok IiDe.. CUI
13 1ft
)oln ...ed t~ roved C'\oic
:' • .1)
bKt.:d;ln O,.._ 10 (root Md_
1i00i1<<''''''_ O...... pbt ......
C2efn "MJt) on both bodit\-s nil ur
rl~,"IInc'"In~n"em bc1"CC1II the-
pic,,' 111,(,; 1 "1"
mund ft('tt. ~ll(m""
c:1()~C
\ln~ltf\,lrm d.." ..oW pk",~ CUI
out llilUl,1rn,
NOI~ 1'1~111'on rtonl bodl« C'Olnbe
~lju:Il\."(ldown 100buM line.
 43
11 The bust dart in tucks
,
,,
, 1>,"
yo"
._....
,,
,
..i
n

... • _. ,,..,.

C)'=
,, .
"
. n
=
-_ "" "I
•
•
•

...,.
..... ~

[ """ "~
u...
,
....,
-.-
13 The bust dart in pleats

,, I
.
•,
;
I

-:
• •,

Ii
'.ac\ I

L._~,. ....
~_I...
, _
I •
•
•
•

..
n
J
f
 textilestudycenter.com
44
14 GATHERED RUST SF~\~I
14 'rrllCt rnllnJ fined bc:>d~ baod.
-rrllnsr"r bU'i1dan 10 annSC)~ draw In
lOhupt'dhu~t seam Ilnd ell.lrnd ,",1\')",
bllck. ~111rkbol.,n,,\:, .,.,inls 601'pM'IIOn
(II' 1P'IIII:r~1)':1\\ a line- (rom (rnnl
anuscye 10 :.h:.ncd b~1 k~m ..s
~hl)\\'n,
Stlttpt'd I"l'(Inl1'lIntl (Ul nil)' ~~r
St.'(ti0I11Ilnd place ,.tbc-r a..~'~1).
overlap 2..5 ern Jl lOP or we seam,
Trace Rl\lnd m:ikins a smoolb hne
Illong top c:dgc.1'1~t" butl(lnhob lind
c-
e- I add buuonstaad. lit centre boKk.
$Idr Fr.,.u Close bust chn. CU1up
dr-t\\'n tine, opc:n 2(1]] al bottom fOf
c- I extra rlllll1~Tr.1t:cround p;lIlern.
BIIC!k-Slnligbt('o sid" st:31IL~f3rt
buttonhole$. add bIJIIOn"(~Qd..~1,kc- 3;
t'omhlned (ile-inS (or boK-k:and ""-'l:"r
pnnel.

15 WR,\P OVER FROl'T

Trace found Jhh."tl bodt« bk>cl Cbolh
~Ides (If' fro"I,. Tr.anifcr cbn to
Ilrfl)~)'t'. On,", in "tap (,)\~f (ronl and
nlidrln'linr 1\1;1'" b;lIan« potntf (or
po~i'hln~ or 'lither;. ~ill\."C'
~wlIli
(I:lr, in neckline In:r to\\ CUI JOronl,
page 3M).
Ilfl)lI( CUI liP sid4:" Ka m$ ;and cui
""'II)' Jowce sn.110n, CJ~ ardUC)'e and
neck dllr18 on upper SC(II'OQ.traee
round. :ctr;aighlc:n IK'Cklme. Close' dart
on lower section, trace round.
IlliC'S. Trace round bact pall~ rub
oul \\':lU;t d.lrl,

16 DR....
\PED FRONT
Trace round bcdiee block RiQuirc:d
(both sides of front). bol:trkdr.lpC lin~
16 across fmnt bod~ Cat up side ~.:tm.
n:,('1; Trace rOllnd batk p.aUC"'l"n.
lo,",c( nC\;klillC'.In;,r" tM.illonhob. tldd
hultonsl(lnd lind extcndl.*d (xinS. rub
(lUI dart •
•,'rOil! ,'utlllon, drolpc Itnn. C'lo~
\\'ni", dlu,,,- CIC)'M:both bu,1 d.;anJ.
0lwn drape IIno uppro~ -I em...,.,....0:
(ound 1):lltern. LO\\~rnC'i:kline. Extend
I(I~C:('«'tian to kn,th r«au,lmJ {Of lit,
'l'fIlCC Ii.., pit'('C"(01' fltt'IOg and bltck ue
pattern
 4S
14 Gathered bust seam
•
•, •
•
·•, ".•
I
s-,:

I '"..
..•
;':_-A-:-:fl
~
- --
•,

t:=1J-__ ~~._~f~~"~'~~~j

16 Wrap over front

~
t- -- ---
• •
~l:
" .
-.
\
,••
....
'flonl
, I

16
Draped
front

-
""

_ ...J __

-.~
r
•
Y'
r

....
I
·...,..tf'ICIItNdri'tf .. •
".
...
- -
 textilestudycenter.com
46
17 Classic blouse
r-"'h
_r<'
(' I
I

-/-
".I /
..
.~ -
il b"" u

5~
.-
--

.. -- -...
~)'.

..
II
~
" .
.... I....

-
I

'tj U ~
,~". ft I !I
tl
~I
I

CLASSIC BI.OUSE SliAI'~S ease ,RIO O.Scm dfJl'I. Draw b;tc:k)ob-lInt: d,\'idc the
Tk dOISA illu.)lrnIC$lhc: 1)rcH."Cdutc .lltd antcr fer lhe- bnC'InlO four JoC(:llon~::C(.lIa~dU\'n CUI up ~
umpl~ ndllptlliionof n bID~IS(l sh:ll~ whh 11set it! sI«\-e ie:Jm,
l"hc b'.4Sic sh;II'C' is sviu,blc: (Qf .)1)'1.:\ thtu Mful~ nlrk CUI :I\\.ty yok,\ c,\Ic:l1dd:.rll0 )\}le lane: do\C
the ",1('Ol,On of bu" IIhtll'lfi. nnd Ihc:n:rt)tc f«jlllR' ;t dan Iirt~1t (UI hllck 'k\.'1ion. opt'" IIIMWO\lent,
(.-"1 UI'
bIocl .llh • bu\1 dnrt, Stice! lilt:elese tillin, btock Rcdrn\\' >",kc line (IIr ..c.
ror (uU bu" "hllplns. the:(,lIil)' Ilulnlt (Of:.n c;aj!cr fit .'roll' Trlllll'rCrdnrt 10undcntttn. ;ho,'C'n d~rt
~otC' If. (""$Sic: 'hirt !I>"C whhout bll\1 d.lrlln,. IS 0,.1'11'In r:.lcing line: l.'On~IIUCllln ctlc.ndcd r.. can, etcr
reqUired \(:kcllb~ boa.)i!; ~hirlhlQ('k 01' P;I.I~IJJ l IMt< J~).
S~\l' Sbln stecvc (I'tr: 2: rl1~ oS.!) or rcr 24 ~(' .$4).
17 CLASSIC ULOUSll Coli., Ccnvertlble collar (ref. S JMI('iO)
Tr.a« f01,Indbod," blocl. I"(;quired It) hipline. O,~ In
butlonhob: add buttcnatand. Place litll)' shoulckr
 -17

Part One: Classic Form Cutting

4 SLEEVE ADAPTATIONS

STRAIGII r SLbEVI;
"''''
4$
27 J)ROPJ>I,OSfiOULObR WI ru PU~~
2 SHIRT SLI:..f,\11! .IlJ SLEFVE ~
3 SEMI,~rn'~O SLbP'V~ 48 28 EXT~NOEO SL£JlVb ss
4 SLEEVE WITII B,\CK SE,\M .IlJ 29 FLARED EXTENDED SLEEVE ~
S CLOSE FIlTING SLEEVE .IlJ JO EXTENDED SLeEVE Willi YOKE ~
6 SIIORT SLEEVE .IlJ JI BASIC RJ.\(iL s\N SLI!EVI:. 58
7 FITTED SIIORT SLEEVE 48 Jl F'LAREO I(J\GlAN SLEEVE 58
8 PADDED SI10UU)€RS .IlJ 33 DEEJ) R,\GLJ\N SLEEvE S8
9 SlEE\'E \VITli suoar FI....
\RE 50 34 R.<\(iLf\N \\'TTI·ISQUARE SHOULDER 58
10 \'ERY FLARED SLEE\/E 54J
II GATIl ERED INTO A CUI'!' 50 ruE SIlAI'ED KIMONO BLOCKS
12 SLEEVE WITH FLARED SECTION 50 KIMONO SI.EEVES (,()

n SLEEvE WITH MOCK CUFF 50 l5 JlASIC KIMONO IlLOCK (,C)

J4 RISIIOP SLRJ1VE so 36 eLOS!; PITTING KIMONO BLOCK (,()

IS iJ\I'TER ~ SLFEVE 50 17 EASY FJ'rTlr-IO KIM!)!"O BLOCK

I. PL frSL~eve
11 G,\lI1ERED ilEAl}
S2 1. DOLMAN SI.EEve
)9 SIIA I'EI) SI,l!JlVE
60
61
(.2
S2
18 Jh\ R'rLI) "r;A I) 52 40 SQUAR t ,\II MS(,YE 61
19 StAMLD "EAD jZ 'I lJA'~\lINO 62
~o INSET CAl' SLEE"ij 52 4' KIMONO Sl'\'LE WI ru YOKI 62
21 STRAPPeD H1!.'D 52 '3 CAP SlJ!bVE 64
n RAISED SEAM 52 ,J CAP SLEEVE WI1'" GUSSET (>4
23 LOWER en ARMSCYE 5-1 .j CAP SLEEVE WIT" PANEL 64
14 E.>\SYFlTIlNO 'SHll(T' Al>t~ISCYE
15 DR01'PED SHOULDER WI1'1-I
5-1
..,
46 FLARED CAPE
FI1TED CAI'E
64
64
LO\\1EREO AR~1SCYI! 5-1 CUFFS 66
26 "ROI'PED SHOUI,DER ~
 textilestudycenter.com
48

r- 1
I qR,\IGHT SLEEVE
Trk.'Ct»w..:: ~'C' bloc".
hol~
0 ~('IIt SIIon ~'C' hoc
M'.fft~
.""iC)~
sKk
1~
r:
r-,
m......., kf,r,CC1S aad (Ibm. 6
I hftC qv.llkf lmt rs """11)

I-'
~ bc,.«n (~ and.n" ,~
2 ,
• \IIIKI Slll:.\'[
)..
5
I-" ,~ snorttn \',...I,hl \m~ bydepthof
cun 1\1",.. bote"
optninllnid"'t'" '-
b(,.ftO «nIl'(' hoc and sede '(.IIU
SIIN'\)Vo at .nSl 1_5cn' 1
I
J S~'II·IITTEO SL£E\'E
I' Tr.I('Cscnupt ~"'e ~""" slt'C_.\~
at_rna b) lea. ~ ttan'I. Cut
.__ vi
(rom 1Mc); c:IbcM liar: to pm.al I .. nd
(rom pamt I 10."risl bDC. 1')\'01 thts I
I

.._
lC'CtMlft (ora;ud "em. 10 tn. te • d~
itt t'lbo-a LIne. li.h.'C' the knsth of
dan ""'~ I CID. \tart in new centre
line (rom l tOernlKof"rilil,
n

lI_ I I
I

4su i VI Willi BACK S~AM

r~,~
\C'ml·fitlcd ,ke\e. I)mv. line
(ttMn twlo:l. lwbDC.'t fIOl"t Ih,ol.l&h l-
..s.. ,1 ~nt In.n,' (II. "tl'"

4
I lYW'.lU~tl fI1Ict \.Ide 'C'i&m,
'Offlhn ..I ....Jna:nD and .. fl"
(~"""t
7
~ (LO'>l ~11T"G SL~\ L

1\ 3 r
']
\
rra« wm .. 611ed ~--e. TalC' 1 lScm
011'c;K'h Jikko 1QIlL CUI up centre
"~m. O'I'C'rbpI em. Drop line froln
poll'll or d:.'l" to _TiSI. Cut line. close 8
elbow d;art_ Shorten dart. ~1 =lke \\·ti:ll
openln,. Ra~annsc:yC' I.Scm. Cu,
..... lIke'\C ()n ,he cross in ...·O\·~ fabriC'!o.
"l
I 6 StiORT SLEE\"E
Ttai,~ un.p.t dtr\~patlnn to shorl
1l«\c'" Sbapt aD t...s¢l.'ft at 1hot
\...--'- t.,,.... 0( exb Mdc ileam

1 I ITTfD ~1I0RT SLFI \ I

l)rA 1em doln OQ «nln: lane (loloC
tI01 r, frJ« tOg"" ~1tcm.

M 1'1\1)1)11)SIlOULDbRS
rr~Ct bodl<t and ,kc\c bloc"",
Sl•• h (ronl .,mKyc 10 o«k of
bOOkC Opm ckplh of r.1d CUI
1I-=~,Jcoc\C bad and up eeetre
'- laM Ope-. o.a t.bc- SiUDC' :&mounI
In:l('f1ui ... ar.. scye
1 Straight sleeve 2 Shirt sleeve 3 Semi-fitted sleeve

_.
r
r

r
•
r
I
I.
I: <,' .,
I
:1 •,
, .
r....... =... _-~-..1 . .. : 2.5c.m·i'.l.......l_-:----::-:-..L.: ~"""
l .. - - --~
'<1ft
5 Close fitting sleeve
11:..

/ .........

,
\' ,to.
/
••
._
• •
-. ·••
•
•,
•,
I

. '..
- -,~
~
,•
-,
-
, • -,. •
,,,
.,. '
,,
,, ,,
,,
,,
6 Short sleeve 8 Padded shoulders

, .. ~
•
:_I' ------- ..... -

•
..•
I ,....
..
•

"~
 textilestudycenter.com
so
 51
9 Sleeve with slight flare 10 Very flared sleeve
• •
• •

1\
/ l"-
.....
I I
•
.. S
,
ICkno

12 Sleeve with flared section

11 Gathered into a cuff

._......
r ~':'~.:1-:- i
13 Sleeve with mock cuff ,

15 Lantern sleeve

14 Bishop sleeve

......
l\• ---
._ - -
I
l' '. J •

"'.. •
 textilestudycenter.com
52
AOAf''TIN(; THE BODICEANI)
SLEEVE
Rniscd :il«"\~ h~d~ CI\'\:'a wsde-
chould.:mlIooL If not f\'quirtd take
21
I enl ofT s.houlder NrC" "" ..hewn.
,Itlt! I em 10 1.1«\(' kO'l.d

16 I'l H· SLEtVE
'T'ru« ..h~tl1Jt'('\(' J)I\ldc: mto ")1.
secuces, Cut oul. ofXn SOC1..on.lt
:U1)ouol ~wrnl AdIJ CAlrol depth It)
steeve hc",d and bem as s.ho~\n
17 20
11 GATHERED HEAD
Trace shan !dtt\"'t", 0,\ ide sleeve head
into fi\C' .s«tioos;lbo\e back balance
po,nt. 1\,.. .rk babOlX ~lntS for-
g:tlber.s 31 top 0( s«tions I and 5.
CUI up ktCton). open OUI.

18 OARTED HEAO
PI"IX'«d :lS (or plhet\"d head, Uelfl~
roul' .«llont.. t)r.nv in d!"fl.. Tnu,-e
round p3tlern shaptng dart edge$.

I') SF/\~"EDliE,,\D
'frIll."( 1:hOtl ~e. DmJ' three
\'C11h.'tlllrl1C'\
(rom J~\'C he.ld. 1)1'11\\'
n j(;uJ1 lIAC'"em d~ n \Vhtto,
IhrouJ}t I~ reeee, nil OUI. OI)('tI ('lll'lI
K'Ct.lun I ,Scm. (race rounll. CUI oul
('tHllpl,.,,. ~"C. Opc'n out O.1Senl. 10 ~
lit irl.S(l I \
Z<l L'ISET CAP SLEEVE
Truce shen ~'t- t_o.-er <;Jee\"C bead
lan. Drawin dc:9thor ap. Divide 22
into $C\.'tion$.-CUI out and open tlU
10\lo"l'rIUk is $lr:liJh L

21 STRAPrED IlEAD I
'Trace shun sI«\'t",. Ol1J\\' simp
~Irpro., Jc:m ~ •• di\",(k InlOfour
~Iion,. Tab- 2ern C-,I\(' froln a;1C'C'\'t
head CUI up 'Slr.ap11nb and «ntre
line. opc:n 0"1 .... .mO'kn. R.11~..leeve
helld "em

22 RAISED SE,,'~1
Trace ~ml·htttd """''(' ~llh U
..Ifllrrwd h(~d I-rom "Irup. drop IllIe"
II,)qWtflC:t elbow. hOG.then 10 quaner
....
wtl~t lane. Cut oul. CUIup lines. 'rtacc
ecetee S«'tlOft_ Close txI(k d.'fl, J(lin
outer sectlOBSor sJ«..'C' al underarm
und wrist, Shape III rront SC'lUO I em.
 53
Adapting the 16 Puff sleeve 17 Gathered head
bodice
and
sleeve

......
.......
19 Seamedhead 20 Inset cap sleeve

c'i~
21 Strapped head 22 Raisedseam
n:Ci~
"""
,.

.tOlWt II,
•••
bf!;it •
T
,. ,
"
".
'"
. •

l' -I " .
I' ,. - ,.

• ~"..-1t:::::,L_,__.J
._ -
<GO ._
 textilestudycenter.com
54
23 LOWERED ARMSCVI;
for II" C';I~)fill'P, bod) ""Ad ;arm!\Cyc:
~h,apc.compkt~ lhl.'ladllptatlon (or ihe
23 lo\\'ff\\.l "rm~"C btfore "'''O"""Uln~"'l1h
IIny further IId)J)4.tuon
Ilody 8«150 .. Irace bod)' )(\."Iinn Ilr hIC'l~1"
requlrC'd: CUI ufl sKI" )(,.\11\. I)pcn 4 en,:
\1101\\ ftl"\\ sid" sum do-n eemre.1.(1\\'('t
~yc depth IJn~1.$C'm
1\1tttk I ltIud 2: em c~b loC)1: d(Plh hue OInd
.\ and" lit $&tt\~ pilch polnls.
O"'.W in n('\\ :arn'QC)'C ,m.~:a.sshu\\'n,
S,l"f:1\' Tnc:e Onc-·pKU ~CC'\'( bloc.k.
Dnt"" II pa.ralkl but bC'tow armscye depth.
the dlstance is b.:sJf1M measurement 1-2.
,\1atk- p<l,nlJ-S and 6 Q.t front lind back
pitch points.
"'" Draw the ecrve S-1 to eew armseye deprb
line. 1M curve Should cq~1the:
me;a;urcmcnl co(Ihe !;Un(' 1-2..
24
,_. Draw the curve 6-8 to cqu31 (,U"1:' 4--1.
Draw und('rat'm ~m. earrow .11 wnst if
r.:qu.ttd. ,
rcme rhC' llmounl 1M bl«l. IS wrdened I

.1111:1I ht II rm "1II: I~( IN can be va rled.

but propoftk",s mu'" ~",,,,n 1,,'OI1\U.l\1

24 cASI' HTnNG 'SlllRr

,\ilMSCI E
COlllplC:ltUd~pla(lnn fCit I~'(~ :'fln..c),(. hOI'll
~1lJrkpolnls 2. J.• .t. 5. 6.
l'J.ody S«fioa E.'llen4 1m \boulder
llpprO:o. l.S",,",. r.aise .thoU-ldtt 0.5C:.11.• ' -9
ilniJ 4 10 hill( the: measuremem or the •
shoulder- C'.:<.lenJ'oo.
•
IJr.:I\\,' nn\ shoukkr 3nd .,rmsc:)~shape.
•
25 SI«,(" ~fark point t I ::II~C' head,
11-12 ;amount 'boulder is extended.
$-1.) half the' me:t5UrrtIlrnl 3--9.
6 14 hoalr (he me:asun=-mcnl", 10.
f' n"y.. In n~'~"'C' kad from 11--14.
_,
,- DROPPED SHOt;LDER WITH
LOWERED ARMSCVE
Construct as for lIhlrt tlMnilC)"e If Ihe
'Jiho~llder~I("nd,.. more Ib..n l.3cm 11ill
u\ulIlI) n4~ns.ar)10 •• den the sleeve,
.\1ark 1,0101. IS ilnd 16 at IIholllder~
13 12 )hould C'qwa191$ plu",0 $(:111.
101 12 s.hould cqu.:a110 16 phl\ O.$4:'ln
If ..leeve n:qu,"", .... enill•• ('UIup C(IIII~
line lind open rcqwR!d .U'lOunl. II is
.... f'I'OMlblc (0 open tbe )ft\C' .11the.- m~~
head (lnl)'
 55
23 Lowered armscye

.",...r - - 1
, I
•I I
I •
I
, I
I
\ I

'''''
I
1 ._, I
I

24 Easy fitting 'shirt' armscye

•I
I

,.• I

I
....
"'1 "'--
~ ......

25 Dropped shoulder ~"'~"~"T

with lowered armscye l.
\
~s

I
• I
'I • , L-_I---.J
•

It ....'
 textilestudycenter.com
56
lei PRorPED SHOU~DER
Truce bodi..--e ~ndJkIe'\"C black~ ~1'lfli:
balance polnl~I. !.). .a btC!od
shal.ltdcr 10 ,tmpc rcoqUII"C'd.~1ark
26 b~1I1114'tpoinlJ S .nd 6. ~1.1"(7 3 equill 27
Ilu:dl\l:an« I S."I~l.( 8 -4 ~uul Ihe:
diilllO('c 1 6, 9 b d~'n O'orn the ~I('c\'(:
..... hC'ad. ahc "moUJI.1~OUklC1 tt: (:'(IC'l\dc:d •
I)m\\ tl«\C hc-.td7. 9. II
f..1 \Vldc'J:IC'd RoW(' outer ""'"uklcl'): I tin,
\Video centre ike,,! 2:cm. Cht'('k the O.
or the slCC'\"\: bead

21 DROPPEDSHOU~DER WITH
rUI'F S~EEVE
TI"'u ee round bod.ice and ).}Jon sleeve
block. J\d;apt rW:I dropped .shoulder.
Divide sI.."'C'\~into four secdcns end open
!'¢Quite<! :amC)un,. <h"Ctbp ~t.:h $C<:1~1)
\
O.SfOm:II bottom 1b1)Ct sleeve hl:;ld for
eXira (ullness..

18 F.XTENDfD SLEEVE
Trace round bodilx ;andslrnlght SICl"\'C'
bloc" I~ ~Ul.~ kftJlb Rub 0111back
1f.hnuldtt d .. n and ~m()\'(' I em tronl
h.u:k lIhuuki.:r:a1 ~rm~(' C'dse On,,,, In
Ih."(khne Of1lw. In ,boulder \_lhP\ 2,$ClIl

29 r-
/
wide on b;t('k .and front ~t;,trl:ecntre
line 4)t'~I«\~. (\tend It 2t Ihe tOjl. 1)IIIC':
baek ..nd rront shoulckt !l.trips to lhl!!
hne, rrace round..all out
30
.:
29 FL,\RED EXTEl-oDED SLI!£VI!
DiagrdIll s!KM., bred sleeve,
\'
so EXTENDED SLEEVE WITH

I '-
YOKE
Frace round ~ Md short sleeve
r
btock. Cut up ""tn: tine of t:Set\'C. Draw
28 neck. 0,..", )'okc hDC'S(m:ll~'nllimI.2Cfll
feoru lOp or block). dmp bacl: yoke line
I em rrom dlft 10:lrmK)'c. Rlti'kl
.)h(luhl~r I.Scm III ara'l\C)'(' edgc,"
sleeves 10 bodK'CS. m3tch balance poiellll,.
sICI:\(' he-..de louche", )<>Lt hnC'. ;lnd
I em (fum ~ ihoukkr poilu'( Tr,I~'C
l'lut'c

',OI\t
---
"'"
")lln ..1 )'okCIlnd ~'( OOlnhlnM. ('u,
out. close bile" dOl" Tr.tOc' round tower
bodK'n.
()lu,.. I)~~ ~''t ')ray, \(,MICltIhn(,
plaee lIln."\b together 111\l."raie:.aJtlee, to
umke .shoulda OrL
 57
26 Dropped shoulder 27 Dropped shoulder with puff
sleeve

I
- •

Widened

,,,"..
1Hc'
I
\

I
1 I

28 Extended sleeve 29 Flared extended sleeve

•
-.
I
"

One-piece sleeve

." _. ..... •
...
•
I .....
I
 textilestudycenter.com
58
JI BASICR\(lI.A'~lHVI
Tr.t4"Crouad bodll.':C' hI«1,; ~ujmJ
lind uoc-JItC'C'! s.lu-.It t*'lt" Tile' tlU
orr front dtoMlJtt Imt Add I tm I,.
~..t ~ 1iac \IJtl fKMnt' I
..ltd l. )aa ,. t,.,. lin! ~'IoI1d(,
potolt. Pl.c'C '1a) ts..;l. .a-.""Idr, C'.. ~
lnlO d.art \10\( 'rool ~lan..~ J'01nt\
fOf"'"Jrd lna '1.u\ bllaJk."C I'C'N'U\ \
and.a Jcu I l ..... .!..a .,Ih.c:unN
hee. CUI .. ., ~
OftC'oPk« ~~t' l>r.... eentre hne
or~~ lem (o",a'" \1l1tkrt'Inl~.
tern da-'n (rom ,,"'<"
hc..d. l'll,cc
seencns to sl«\"(" m..ltt:tllng blltBncc
point'S. pl.l('( sboukkr poIlU. to sleeve
head. CI<»e INck cLan.. Trace (ountl
making :a srtghl~ sha~ shoulder
hue (0 point S. .'01'1.
T"...PicttS,""C"0". )I~.:\( l'I
ceeue line. add I em 10 c4ch centre
--
_-
htlC': tunc •• '0 point .s,
I~ fUR~D R\GL.\100Mil \ I
01\:• .-coptCO:' ",""c Into {.lUI
1«1101ti. C:.... ~ ,,,,\urN .me",n'

JJOf.EP 1lA<'1.A' \1 1 1 \ I
T~ ro.c:t bodllro.-C bind (CSlUlrcd
..tkI ()I"IIt.~ ~c ~"'\ "iM'C Wn)
~k. ~ Cbt InlO 41 ..... 1
Add .lao 10 CM..... bodJl.--c ,,!d( ~"I1'
\1,Jtk J III on"nal fronl .,.I\.it IleU'U
Ux dJft'CtMl'IU(Of cia,._"",r.,l ..n. bll!
CUT\'"C n.iJ;ao hon: bcto..' OI,n,)C)c JUI!;'
~larJt poinl$.6, 7. 9 *.
SI('C\~ Pb« ~',on~ 1~ 1«\( ~I'
..
1100\1:. nutC' •.be: 'KOl)' .he: und('rann
pieces la~'on t.IIc sm·C'. Inateh
oobncc points. Onl .. " hDC below
IIrnuq"C hoc h;al( abe d''''''n« th<
bcdiee 3f'M5iC)'" Us bcxn "'-'('tnt
b 10 =- 6>--&. ... 11 =- 7 II ....'1n _lib 34
,,",cd ~ CU'"' •.",.. ..1f'ilI.hl
ban (toID..tr..I) kl_ftG 6 10.00
'T II ","(1ft kIoa uJWtr.,.." ","AI
CUI Ul'
Tr-~ ro..J
* ~.ad (10""", "t "em
1« I"~ ~'C' """'" d'ff\;tjdft\
Cor ~ r:...... I_O-~ J«\(

'" RAGU:-" l'flt l>Ql'\KI

~HOLLD~R
DI"!I~ ',nee rrom
~uktC'r nnlth 10
ruglilO bon: open I,S.:rn. .rptt'l'
RaDe moulder appro' 1em
 S9
31 Basic raglan sleeve

••

_. I....
-, I I_
I ......
I
I
I
33 Deep raglan sleeve
32 Flared raglan

~I
/ I

l
- I ....

I 34 Raglan with square shoulder

I
f\
\
I
I
• ,
J
,
-
.._.

,
,,
-
I

-
I
I :I , ,
I I
,
I I
..,. I
I ......

60
The Shaped Kimono Blocks
KIMONO SI.I'tVI!S
Kimono b~l. ..aanbe u",""(1 ("r d~iln' Ih.u \.lr) (rom
do~fi11InS30haptl' to c:~~ic.. tiulna "h"pcd ,:armoCnt,
Ill< ".mC'no ad.1l'1l1lCjnnllin lhl~ th.lplcr dcmon3lta'c
dcsian"' Iboll ttl!! rellun the b~t lIarl. ltiinllhl: (~
filllOS b&oc.k. the ('as), (I,IUII:Iblock or (he m.cl}I,o&rmlenl
bIo<~~
For kitn(Jno dCllilLnSbased (til II simple shape "'thoul
danmg sex page 136 Vihi!':h demonstrates khncnc
~pes ~31cd by Onl cuning \\ ilh eo blL$tdOlt'
$b!lpm,
,5 BASIC KIMONO BLOCK
Traee round ~c.k !lnd from ,~lioIlJo( ("'oUrfillm,
bodkc block 01 overgarment block as required.
rrsee sIet:\e blodt. narrow underarm seam at "'"l'\st If
~Ulf'ftl
6aC'k ~tark POIIlIl10 ,,"d I on ~Jtl(' 10(.111):
S<I";t.f'C"
OUt
1_1 ).Scm: ~UJu·tlip 10 ).
~1.,r" .& lit ,ho"ldcr polnt, S 111IIC:~" pOlnl
Ot\ldc the sleeve blO('k do~\''' the centre IIn<
Pta« b"cL ,~c: Ilc;,d 1\1h')uch ,hould-:r ~In' .& lind
und~".1N" or deeve If) l(luch line 2 ·3, ~1"rl.ralnt 6
0..7 one third Ih, IUeil)urtr:fllCIU 0 I mlnu10.$(m,
Jotn 7 10 "rut polnl ~.
7-9 6em.
' .. 10 6crn:j()ln 9 10",lIh;1 cu.'\t.
J.,.11 I.SCIrt:jain S II nnd 11 12 ttl ,...rlsl pmnl.
"'ront Traru.f'er bust dart fruln shoulder to ,,~iSlbnc.
~tar1 point~ 13 :"nd 14(1) S}(lt ~1I1l.
13-IS 35cm.
1~16 l..5Olll:joio1}-16.
~iork point 17 at shoulder pujnl. IS III n«t point
16-19 Ib< m~')ul't'me:1\1 1 6 un b;lck tl«lion Mac<
undcr.arm or (mnt ~J('(Ycto point 19 and llu: :)Icc-\'C'
bdtd 10$houldrr hi ,viii rl5c !Ib()\c $h()ulderpolnlt.
textilestudycenter.com
.".20 Ihe mt~l.surC:lnelll{) 7: JOin 20 to .n..~tfIO,nl
21
lO-ll 6cII\.
W..ll (lent. Join 22 lJ "'lth.1 (~Ir'~
17-.2,.1 I.Scm:Join 18 l.a'lnd 2012S;at"",,'pvlftl
iran~rCf bUJlIdllrl to posulon rrquiml
.16 CI.oSE FI'ITING KIMONO BLOCK
,.~ ruund close lilting bodJCCblock :and cne-peece
5~tI:\'Cbl<'(:lc I)ividc $1C\:v~ do\\ n ttnl~line..
CORStf,,(:1 as b..'1sll;kimono block", lib the rortov.1nS
alterations: 0-7 und tll-20 quarter nKasurnnCIJl 0-1
miuU$O.Scm. Dr.IWn ttne Scm Ions. rrom«ntTeo(
I,Inder.tl"n)(Jireelcd 1Q\',:ltd~tht n«k)
CU~, Druw u hori7.onl:lllin~ mllri::points lanG 2.
IJcm apart. Drew a "enical hne mid\\""3)hChi'ttn I
and 2. drn\\' liues from I lind 1, Scm lonr., 10 touch
Ibe 'erli.;;" lint' above IllId tx:lov.'. \Vhc-n Ihe' hlock ''''
CIOmplclC'dtransfer bust dart 10 rcqulrn! posulOn
I'or \\.II-s-t JharainJi, refer 10 ra,l::t 21.
l1 Io,\Sy~1"'TlN(I KIMONO IlLOCK
lllC' the CiS)'fillIng hodl« blocl (If (nttprmc:nt
bloc"
('on)lruct a~ for bU,lu,:kin,ollo bt«k "lib Ihe'
rt)Uo\\·ln. Illinor .11i~rll'lun§,
Add 2.Scnl to Ihe xidc scamanti mark polnt\ 0 lind t
and I} ntl~1I~ en the new !llde:seams,
~1a~C'0 7 one Illird the n1c.~I~un:tn(nl 0 I plus I.San,
SHOULI)ER /\O;.\''TATION
The s.houldc.r line elill be brought r(lt'\\~td10 $.1\"( ~
good line 31 shoulder, For Ibis :ldapl31.aD lbe haste'
block is adaptcd before d.r.ltiing a kimono bIoc:t.
Bod~'5«lll)n 'r;)k(' I tm Orr front ~hou-kkt line: add
I em lO b3Ck ~houldcr line.
S~'(' l)r:1\\'ctlUtC lino or sl~"tI em (onord.
 61
• 35 Basic kimono block ,.
•"
_, I

,.• _' _' I,-

\
" '"
, •,.
\,
- " 10
\
-'-'~-~.-.- " n
• 21

• 1~

"
1 2

36Close fitting kimono block

•,
, •
11
"

...'
\
, ,
I
._
I
, I
I
o

Shoulder adaptation
,....

- - I

I
 textilestudycenter.com
62
)8 001-\1 A , SLFF\ I
Tt')ce round LItnC'*O NcKL I\"QUIR'\I, ,n.rk
pellnl" 10 ~nd!~
Onrw ~C' ~rc 10 eenue 01
an .....
u~ wt'\cfllllt d~.u.ft«It"'" 39
iht,uldrr IWtdI ~ld he thr ... nk tl"
boKk aDd front K'C\JOIII,.
~csLlipcd~~fl """'_~JI_O
Ih.nl\. n,ah Qf rlUCle.rrn,",,)c. Ihrcc
'1"",,1",kDslk01 ~L um~(' \1..,k
b.'tbDtt pCKDb ~ eeeue of 'It\,:lwlnl. 1),.1\11
Llnc:s(rom blabn« poI"1, 1(' rou,!. 10 lind
23
Cut off' sm"C' .5C'ct.am.. JOin al "<"'n.-.
Cut up ,ussel I.t.oc:J )nd open 4"n"
Trace ~C'C\'C. raise sleeve head 0_5Cln.

39 SHAPEDSLEE"~
&llmpk shO'\ll'l\.lId;apkd doh,,;;" ..5tto\'C
b;.~ on debe fill'D, ... mof'l.O tt-Inclr:
ConslJ'Od dot.un Jiml' .,Ih s,h"J'('d
lIrmSC)" mawm!
1),\Kk l()fled$lr 0( ~" .nln (,lur
40 SC'CIIOllSand t'IJ.'m ~JDOUnl ,t\lU,R'd
bl~ ~ l' k.J,J IIrt-"V\ I S l."
DltC'I.-C
*1 , .... ~ clan tn .,mtlC)(
'h;arl
....~~n

4U !>QU\Rl \k\l\( \I
Tr .. « rouftIJ "UlIk'IIIIoI,) boI.,," IC\jUIIW
0,""", In sqUil~ ..naK)c to cenueof
unden,. carse. RnDO\'tih..pt'd ~IIOrl~
frlJm IIrm."')c li\. k~r~{)Im,ln ,ke\c. 1)r\IW
!lAO (rom b;a.L;antt' points 10 centre or
underarm curve,
('onlpktc $1("('\." a, for dctm.." "I('c\~

41 8r\T\\'1NG
Trace kimono bkld noqulrcd 0,..\\ line
41 from cent" 0( Uncknrm CUI"\-CIn n«k.
Cut .l&lon~ fine. OpMI rtqu.1't'd .. nUlunt
RnlnM' unlk'Drm cun~

41 Kl\10'Osnlf "ITII \OKI

Trace t1*Dd taa.o Wack tna,,,rnI ..... --.
0". ~okbftCS,.C\tmd O'... n ~('t.
DroM In laaa (ro. ...tn..,.. I" )\,~
fdltUt(d lora<U'd, ..n
fIOIAI'
Till« ro..ttW CM" ..,wk'. ~('
1RfC11 ~CIIIIU»C1 ~"r.t u~('",n,
:--o.~ Oa.t.gm. _Ith ntr. hoJ) fullnC'",,"01
Iho!iC' b.utd OD tk _tdt tln,onn h ..lc,:l. do
nOI n:qUIr( • ,U).t('1 an.)(n
 63

38 Dolman 39 Shaped
sleeve sleeve

..... /
.....
.....
.~ u

23
••

40 Square
armscye

41 Batwing

"",
'"'"'
n
~
....~
.... •
•
•
It
•
42 Kimono style with yoke
,, &ld. "0",1
/
/
,,
,
~IIICII.
I lOP ffOl'lI

/
/
/

•
I~
I ...
1M'
-/ •
 textilestudycenter.com
64
43 CAP SLEEVE
Trace bf~k required, talk ~houldcr
I em ~I:a,t. b;a1~rK't'points Jem
bch,w. IIrm"'C)'C. £'\Ie-nd s;houldcr 1(1
43 ",deb rtq,uircd Dr;)'" 111oUIf:r cd!;!:
(I( filP Yrllh .. ,-mnoth hne. 45
•• CAP SU,[V~ Willi GUSS~i·
'trace k.mono bJo('" rtqull't'iJ ""jib
lIho,. Jke\'C l,bollldC'r Icogtb IIPPrO);.
32cm). WllbOUIcunyal undenam,
\Viden 5ltw;:\~ lern. IJr,)-.· a line (rom
undcrolrnu (dlf'C'(ted al eemre
,houkicn). mark points I and 2. 1
em alon, IlM.. 'Iart points 3 and 4.
4.5ct11 in from sli:c\c: ubdcrdrm
seam, Cut out J«tioM.

44
Clh.'set Draw- \C'n:ictJ line. place
under:arm~s of SC'(':lions 10 Ihis
line JOIn I lu 2. COQ)Irvt1;, lri~nglc
f'ollol

"".
shape equat te (he one formed ebeve
the line CUI C)Ul.

4S C'i\l· SU:£\'E wuu I)ANI~I_

Cun~ltutl 'C'Jrsl«\ (' \to hh Cb'i'k"
rallern (1\0 .lIi,., d.tn.~.,Trnn(fct
hUit dOlrl 10 n«lUnC'_ 0111" In p<1I1t11
lin,,'\. Or;~ ""1).1 d:an\ on Iheln. CUI
aVo,I)' IlK four 'tCtIOQJ. CloM:'nc~:k
dlIN. CUI out bod~ r~lIC'rn~
"',noelMith GIbW.' 0",\\ round
~u$.\C'. Ptace i«-1Joru. 1.1. 3. 4 mUlld
aUjS(!t :.s sh.O\"ft.Tta« mund.

46 FLARED CAPE
46 Truce kimono bl«k r«Iwn.-d. 47
'rrnnst'er bU$' dan 10 n«kllnc. 01.1\\'
in cape. 1\'111ri: (root slr.&pline and
cut tt\\"'a)'. Drop "''C'rtk.:tl tines frern
backned ;and ~bouldcr:from frol\!
lihoukkT ;lnd tKb.I point. CUI oul.
Cut up bees, Close bust dart. open
Olhcr li~10 m~"c tbe same lIMounl
or Ran:. -rrac:cround

47 FITTED CAPE
Dnafi ~ L.mono p;111C'tn Ircru blo<:k
n:\IUI~.tNl.c (b:;\l:' O\~rl.lp
"~lIm2.Jem Draw In p.1n~lllnc4.
"ide ....
Orllw u (".apt Ol,td(' eape deeve
head InlO i«IJonto. CUI ntr P,t"")""
('Ul ups~'C' hc.d S«1K'ln). Draw
vc,ti"algtIlJo hee, I'L"I1,"t'
«JI(~ lI'I."('\'('
line, 10 (hi) lin¢, nail(: ht'lSdStCliolts
liS .!ihO\\'n.T'*"! round
'''''
 65
43 Cap sleeve 44 Cap sleeve with gusset

,
I." .." •
"MIl
~
u _. 3
, •• ,-
~
v

II
I I I '~_I
b.cII
R _1_
:
,
2_
flollt

I tIISMI

45 Cap sleeve with panel

"

I "•

46 Flared cape

_. , ,
.., '
1 '

'
'

,, ,
, , ,
.1
1
,, • ......
• 1
•
- =!
,~.
47 Fitted cape .."'.

"•
- ...••••
'
r,
.... •
• '- ,
I~,
I
~
u,
,

~ ... • , •,
t
,
t
,
...... • l....__ -
-
 textilestudycenter.com
66

1 1 - . •,•
I, I
fl n~
~ltfn(_If - -~~--~
10. i.
0-
Dr
I.:~n,
","""aPr t.acr 1Mdt-rIh 0( hnl\~
dlh •• 0'" mc1'-u~1 ptu,
....
0- !\,m, rl...
~I ~C"'U~ToII" lor button,
i\tl*,L bUltuntk.)b and bl.itlon !"OInt\-
2
-,.. _-_._-
I I~ 'uld
-I
o.;ublC! ~'r' ("If
......
OflJ'A cuff .llb butwD:Stud at b(uh c-nd"
\f.,L bul1~'lD~ T1t.ascuff ISdn_n (~l.Ir
tnnn thot dtS"'b 0( fbi: iIIlsJwod eufT"a,t.
1'oIJ1_ .. _
•
~---- ... .....
• -,
-+

3
..... - - .... 3
.....
uo.:---- Skc., ..."..
Trace round~'C:r edge
C'di~ ur
\,( (.1\1"1bn
"kc\c mU\1be
,m('
or sleeveLO~~'r
even. 1)1";.1""III Uno
Wb~1 throufh Gillfl
o-
j

•
i
nC'''''r.JJ'IC'f ('ut OUI and marl. htlilonholl:
''''''I';--...Jf· Q

4
4 't,,..tp, (tI, •If. t-MiII:I I •
Or.... h:\'" !'.Ie. ",.-it" 0( ~'C btl"UI" -~"':"
..nd ,."'-.: lhe ~ 0( fino.bN cull \dJ
.-f....ln' ILlio-cr cd~ tdcjtlh IlpprO\ ~"
'an, •
• '\.

5
Sh evn I I I I I ],
Ora'" n:ct;anpc- I ~ = depth of 6ni~bt-d
cult. 2 1 • .,..dlll 0( boalom 0( ,,!et\-r. •
01\* rmc ~\ ~t.. Cutout. oJ)(n 01.11 •
7 .., tor t'dJf 'tl
_,.,sIb ~1IIR'd.at lOp o(
cull" Tr...~ ro..d.. evl oat..
6
6 ,. - r I I I_I O.
..,ill"d (urt
1)'\1.....If fn:tun,r.r I 1. dcrlh ot ti'lhh~~
Quff.2:' .l1.Ith at the bollom of .I('~\'~·
I)'\<I~I~InlO f.,hl secuon ....OI'lCII IlUI "\0
""'lion, utatlAIht)' ~k I (omplelt (1n.-lc
, race lOUrW. -':11' out.
 67
Part One: Classic Form Cutting
5 CONSTRUC'fING COLLARS

CO~LARS Oel'>hRAL PRINCIPLhS

... " (08
I)l;.'-ER P#\N' ' .. LAT. COLL,., R 1>8
1 IlTON ("OLLAR (08
J f'LJ-\T COLLAR wrru lO'" NI~CKLINl! AND SLIGII r
51'AND 68
SAI~OR COL(.,\R 68
"s ~iJ\NDARtN'COLLAR 70
6 Sl-f\NDIN(; STRAIGHT C()LLAR 70
7 I'OLO COLIJ\R 70
8 CONVEllTIBLE COLIJ\R 70
9 SIHRT COL(.,\R 70
10 \\'1 NG COLlJ\R 70
II REVER FRONT 12
12 CLASSIC ROLL COLLAR 12
IJ CIIANGII-oG Tilt STYI,I, LlNf- n
14 $IIAIVL COLLAR 12
IS IIiGII 511AI'hO COLLAR 12
16 IIOLI.OIVED I'>EC"KLINI 12
17 CLASSIC GI!.' rs COLLAR 7.
18 CLASSIC RIiE~ER COLLAR 74
19 5T,\NI>ARO RhVFR 74
10 S1-t\Nl)J-\RD RE\'ER WITH (-ONCEJ\I.EI) STf\ND 74
21 COLLAR A~D REVER \\tIT)" CO~1PLI~-rE
STAND 74
n COLLAR SET AIVAYFROM NECK 74
2J FRllLeo COLLAR 76
2' PRJLtED RE\'ER 76
25 SIMPLE CO\\'L COLLAR 76
 textilestudycenter.com
68
Collars - General Principles
TER~1S usedwhen~iI~tru4:linlJcoltllX
Vt'rli./I"t' the line where cell a r 1\ JOined 10 nee:}.
,....
..
,
_ ...... $,1/,./111(' outer I.:<I,C ot' cottar er rr'l~r
Roll 1./",. 11'1:line whct( coll.lt roll) 0\'"(1
Stur,,! '1.."0of the(ftthl" ftoln n«,"lln~10 roU line
~',( depth of c,'ollat from roll'lnc- 10 lJl)'k hn(
H,.,~(J" "UIII' where the N\Cr illtn) b.)<-l 10 (unn Jape'l.
Im·ol/.. 1.11tt' IInc jd()n~ ""hleb l.lpc'1 mil, bac:L
"",rOtr I),.....rlln~ ~ C.,U.r 10\\'(1 ,"-"('kline If rcqU.In:d.
nlark buncntine. butll)nhob bUltorutand.
A{ln Omnia!: :1(~ollar add O.lScm letout« aI$C ot
lOp coll:lr and fronl l)Oint l-l:1) $h~n In dt:a:gr.am.
This ensures dUll scam line of eutet edge or r;ollar
will nOI show when made up. end 1M oo.ck DtCk: of
collllr \\,11 sit properly. Add O.Scm (or thkt fabms.
S~tl&l ;\'(11(' diag_ntnl QPI)Q3IlC s~"'S" princ:ipk
thai applies tn the making (If all .:olbrs. \\'bm
dm\li tng the style line. enow for deptb or
colbr- stand
F~pt"l!ncn' en 11 .. h'!ss lOIn"\!cr figure r()r fil\~1c:ffC'\"b.
Collar 1'~'~coll:'11'S("II into (our b.&s.ic groups: 1101
rollllN ,II 11:11 (or :Ihno~t' ::.ruund ShDUldeN.
SItu,Jllill ftll/urs ;'illlltd up Qru"n~1the
roll ever. (hen f:111.
n«"
0' ..,."tW.

(,oJlof,t (;" lit fJlI,' 1,,(,11 ,ht' 1l"'Jf~jill

CqJlur, ""II 'rl'tr~,gc~lrol(' (Ollar-and 1"C'\1('f,

Flat Cellars
I'ETFR rAN (FI.Al) COLLAR
paacc ~ouldcl of but'k bodice to !houkkrQ( fronl
bodice. nccl: pcine tOUChing, outer ,houidt'n.
(t\'Crlapplng b>' ~c:m. Or:'"' in collar sh."lpt' \\'betlolr
coUaJ'~

2 ETON COLLI-\I{
CC)n)1,uet a Pel1;1'Pan t'ollat. OJ, ide oo.l"br inlo .ix
seetiens. CUI out. cut up Jines.o\'erbp IIIoUler edg.e
O.75cm. Tr a CC! round cottar wirh a smoo1h hne,

1 I LA1'COLLAR '1iITI! LOW NECKLll>EAND

SUOIIT STAND
TrdCCrouna (1\'1\1 bodlee, druYo u, 0«,,11.1\('.Tal.c: a
0_6cm dan \,,,t df neckhne (ref Lo....ftn"l"n.. raltt' 12'_
1'llIcc bac" ~hlluldcr to In.n, shaulder. n«1t fIOlnc~
tourhll)lI l)r.I"'11i t."('lilar.\\lh«1 aO'colbt 1),\ ide' InlO
fl\e' \o(\.1ion~ cut up 11I1C~oo,-c:,I<tpI etn at eerer <d(;e
or ('011#, "nl\"(' tOIUIt.! ~4JlIl1r,

• SAILOR C'OI.'-'\R
Placc blll:k bodi(.~10 fronl bochc:t :._s rot p(ttT P;an
.... ('Ollar, Ora'" In 'V' nlS:l:line, DOl'" in cGILtr as sh(M-n..
'\'~I00' plltlcl'l1 !uul CUI out
.t ~
011 "'
,ttwt'-' .. ,-d.l(.d
~V.ll#'4
• P-
I!t
~ 01J P''''''''-fQO I..... ~
~ ' .... IloC"', rfdt,.oc:.... "'''' tuncJ
69

"
.11
,v-, ...'1 ",_.

'-
-
-
Top Collars 1 Peter ,
Pancollar 2 Eton collar
......
[_

- 3 Flat collar -low neck

•,
•
4 Sailor collar ,
\
•
. .
, •
~_,...;-'T-;.
~
y-
,:I
,
"r,
I

,• •
•• ••

....
 textilestudycenter.com
70

r
6 ...8
-o o

Standing Collars = collar dep,h lIPI'r-OX,.!)(m. 3 i..Ihr« qu:;tr,eo.

diil .. M'C" I 2. Shnpe n,,'(l:IIfIf:O.5(M up I.(t 5. Sh.,pc:10
"r:II~ 1bt-1\~k ocwr t'dgt'
If na:ktln(' R'quH('\.lo\\criIlS. complete Ihi", then 011";.1"2 Ih(! SI)'It' Lint! SqulI~ up (rom ) 10 6 l'hc
m<~.)urtn«kllne. SUlnlllnlt.:oll:1rsnlU~1be m<')\umt ~)I(' hne \.'\111be (lulIIgedfrom6 ils,tw.n In dlJ1"..,IU,
OK'Cur;llIc:I)'
"jlh tape UI)tlgJlI (3oCC
dlll~r.tlu). Place biKL Shllpt'CI('Olilif - ('uncl'lIk'd Stllnd COn"'fUl.'t
10 (ront "lib ~houldc'" tflullhln,: 1l1C~SUrt (rom eeeee <Otr\'Cftlblr I:ollllr. I 7. J.$cm. dnM C:Uf\e<l IJne(roft"!
~l. '0 ctnlR" front ror IUlif ncck ft\c:.lJiun:mtnl 7103. Diode I ) hllo ("ut :s«llOra.. (.~"'I0'101\ coll~r
:I.nd ~Ialld. CUI \IP IIn(,1I.O\Ctblp~land al oulut'dae
, ~1ANI)ARljI.I('_~LLAR O.lc:m oneach line.Ol~n dUI('r c:d~t of culJ~tO.4c:tn.
I ! (uJJ neck measurement, 2-3 approx. 4cm. Ora\\ CUI O.6c:m froln centre bilck or ,"ultar. TroK*:'collar
~aagk. Cun'r (Juleredges,~Inrk centre b~cl Md 5land.
Oi\icJe into SlA sections. cut OUI. Cut up r"ur OUICf'
Imes, m...:rbp O,1cm. Trace round. 9 SlilRT CO~I.AR
LO'l''tTfronl neckline O..Scm (not shirt biod:).
6 STASDING STRAIGI'IT COLLAR I J: = hul( n","'Ckmeasurement: Mlua,rc:up.
l.aKtt ned:linc approx. I em til eeuue rock nnd I.j = (.)1IIIr $"lnd and depth nl('asumncnt: sq~n
shoulders and 2.Scm '" centre feont. ~'e-J'(Urtncv. aero ss.
IK<kIin<. 1-4 = three qU:lrlcN "u::-n1iu~nCnl I 2: 2-$ = U,Scm,
Squ:tre both 'II;~y!ifrom). I 2 hflli ueckliae I 6 = hjllf n'eju;:lI(tnlelU I ..lrninliS I C'M! $QI.I~~
n\a)CUf('ftK'nl (lC'tOSi 101.
2-3 huttons.tllnd; square up. 1-4 c\,llar depth. square 7 II = 0 7Scl": draw 11'1 (ollar nul""'" (ron, .J ...
~'i 10S. J 6 - I<In: , 7. 1.51.'Iu:J ...un 6-1. S 9. hlllltll\)Ulnd:joln 8 Ij flftd" ""llh cu,,~
7 It. mt..~urc1n('n' 1 J:joln 1--8. ~t:all:bunonhole,
I 9 half m(;1)ur(lncnl 1 J: Join (. 9 \0, IIh 1II(~In't &,a,.n·SuIl1d ·lr.'<:.:~hlrl\"OII;J.r
6 10 07,cm
Sh.pe line (rolll 10 tu line fron,;\, Tr.I~C'Olb, ~nd\l ..nd
7 I'OLO COLLAK Sb"pNl $1.11'1CUllllf 'I'tlll.'Cshlu eoll;llr and 'I.tud
I J: (ulJ n«l D1COIa.ut(nlCIIi.2 1 fOllt IlIn(!) liru~hed D,\·,dc. ShllPC IItCi'l1 U$ rl)r c:on\crtlb~ colbr.nd -SYnd.
depth of (.aU.Draw l'ttt:ln$k'. \\1"rl.: centre Jeom, (old
bne, roll hlk'$. CUt coll:&ron cro",~in \\'U\'(n (lIbrn 10 WINO COlLAR
CO,"Iru,"1 tin;' rectangle wld stllnd for u b;ask ~JI1
8 CON\'ERT18LE COLLAR ('Qltar.~1l1rkpolnts 1.2. 3," 5.5 half 1-4. Squ.aR up
COostnltt r«t1W,gJt' 1-2 half neck measurement, 1---1 (rom 3-6. Draw in eoller ~h.aJk' :ti sho."""ft..
 71
Measure the neck 5 Mandarin collar

- rl • I
I•

0,1 • [
c~ I• I :3:
ci i. '1 =:J
._ ~ ,,
,
..........
""'-
G. ~., I
6 Standing 51raight collar
• ~

,
I , 8 ,.
,
I
-,0

Ii collt.

,
•
j). 2 J

7 Polo collar 8 Convertible collar-,

...... • " - ,.....-.I~~I
,011 I,,.. , I
--------------r-------------
, • I

"" I

...
(Olbor
~
~ .~
Lotll~
•.,. - , ,•
"-----"---r4
•
I
......
'rt-l-J

•
10 --..&._
.1-.:....::==;;="..,
.._.
~. «111"
IQ ,,"'"
•
10 Wing collar
r-~~~ __ ~---4~~1

,
-- ,
 textilestudycenter.com
72

e 0
e 0 0
<> 0
0
., 16
12 14 .,
-e
11 ., -e

e
:113 .,
e
15

Collars CUI in One with the Garment

lk'«m dr.ft,na t:losc flIIilia collr,(,) With 10\\ Jt'\(_Nr. 13 ('lIANGINOrus srvcs LINE
m;akcO,6cm neck dart, U'lul~(Qrthis to bu" dan or
The OU1('( IIllC' Ih~ '<ill (:oll.lI can be chlnJC"CIln
m.n) dlOcl'tnl \\.1)'11 to pn:xhlt'f n(",\ d('''I~n,,"
II lltVtR I'RON1'
-rract' round front bodice. mark ooltonholn. :add I. SIIAWL COLLAR
bullon~l .. nd. ~1:t.r5::bre:lk puinl lewl with tOp Colll.r" tlltU are \\'Id~ ,'lUllnd Ihl: ~houkkn and b"c:1.
bullonhok. Onf\\ line- Irom neck pclru to brt"<tk point mlU' have :smaJlt'1'5\\'ing (el: 3cm) 50 tboat ,he' cuter
Dntw-Il:\Tr shape on bodice. Foftl alonp. brcuk lint'. «Ige becomes \\'id~r. Continue as (or roll co1br.
\\'bed .hmur.h r~'er s.httl)C.Unfold. unee round ShtVlI CoUfir ,rilh Seam 00)\\' d hOC': (rom n«k
p.l'tlC'm. CUIout. Truce otT Inclng. Add O.25-0.5cm to J'IOIDI 10 centre. br n"erlnp III collar c:d~~ Sc.~mtC'
cuter edge of rever faclug. back collar. Shupe shoulder seam or
front :and back
colt:tr,
11 CLASSIC ROlLCOLL,\R
Tr,," round fronl bodice (lew revers dan n«k). I~ HIGIi Sf"'I'EI) COLLAR
~lut bUllonhoks.Itddbuuonsmnd. t>.larkpoint I Trace round (ronl bodice, mart ballonh~ks Md
:.1 \)ff'-.tk J'W)lnt.IU~lrk neck point 2. Extend (toft, beuenstand. ~11.ll'kbftak poinl I k1.<1"-lib lOp
~tdC'1 lin!:. PIJ,,,'C' n:\'Cr~'tI b.lck bodil:c 10 f!'One beuen, ~,tlltk1111rI~,(),;point, 2 J; t ,Scm Dra\j,
bodll« 81 0«1: pcnu Sv(ing b:l~k so Ih;u the OU1c:'( dan par.III("110 brl'ul; lint as ~hown, 1)1'11(1
lOUcollar,
~uJdC', «1Ft O\'('rI ••~ ('(I(lId~llitl( b) 8.S",-m U)( IWOI,nt;\ alCne~" point. Orol" ,n h.t(k of ecu .. r and
~tllll. b:K''' nctl. point ,. 2 '"-l<:ill. J S. 'an. S. 6 "h:tprd Iot)'lc Une.'f'rIICCon' r;I~I". ~nd compk,tC' ... for
6~, 6 1 0 5(,ln, Dmw In ",)11bne S ... :.nd bn-a" roll rolilir.
hne''' I, Dr.e\j,·In \t) Ie hll(l (rom 7 I
tad.1>! TOIcc 0(1" nlcins,. Allow 0.25-0_5(0' round 16 BOLI.OWEI) NP.(·KLIN~
eerer <'d.,: of ('oth.r. 1.)r;I" line ~Icro~;(It':IO, b<'10\\ Con,,1ru(111 c.'la»11,.:rull.:ol1ar dr..n Dr-... In ,I»)t hno.
1"I:'\"tf, Ttl» _110\\'$l'le r'lc:ing 10 be cur iu two patl.4,. o:.unplt' liho\\'J dc!dgn with notch On... lux (rom
io-"C.T bl( on tbe slrOlight I:l,uin o( Inbnc. top h.aLr ca n poinl 2: at nl'C~ 10 l"tnlr~ lme 5C'm IIbcn-c top
1'1:;1\( eeeue h.1ck 1I1,e:1"<1<;«1l0 OJ (old Qr tilt: r::.brM:10 buttorlhol('. l.)r.I"· in I.Scm d;,rl on ,hit; line Tr.Jf;'.toff
"''Old. back seem. (liang Including tlnrl. complete as (or roO ("Ollar,
 73
Low revers 11 Rever front 12 Classic roll collar

"'" .....
',,,"

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•
•..
-,• "
.... , t

;;; ...,
..!.

-,
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I,,,,,, ~,
u.
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...,,
u'

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•
1
1
~
1

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•
13 Changing the style 14 Shawl /collar
line

I
\
"...
, -c,
•
,
\

\ •,
,
,,
,I
, -,
,
• .....
.....•
\
;;:r ~.
-!.
~, •
I -
v,
I
u.
--,
~ , , •
-. --;

15 High sha~ collar 16 Hollowed neckline

,
\
1 1
\
,, ,
, ,,
\
\

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\

\
-.,.,
\

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,,

."" ~,
u,
.. ,.... ,,
,
...
\

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,
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..., I

74
o
o 0,
18
17
Collars with Revers
17 {LAS8IC GI(N1S (,01.1.,\11 rrAILOR~DI
'('f'ik~mund rrom hodt«. Rai'\( I'rOll1 nt:ek O,S,","
~\.n.p<Nnll. sqU'If'e .U:rol>ll.rub out I:Kh.'Jn,
ocekllM.. ~1llrk in buttonhole. udll bUItOn.lolllnd.
E~tcnd ihoulckt line. 2 l = 2enl !lIons Ih.: line" =
bR'Oll perm, Jcm 4 h) .1 with II dOIH.od tine, extend tme,
3--S. mel: ncck_ measurement plus I em, S-6.!cm
(~3 i$ S,1mt- measurement a$ 5-3);square a tme
a::ros:s sl righl anglc:s to the;line (._3. 6-1 = Jan. 6-$
.c Scm Draw .. lint Irorn should", point parallet tc
bR2k line 9 =- J.Scm up rrQnl the line from 1_
Onw in nccl:linc l. 9. I aud outline of ~\'C'ras sho-'O
(cbcd wpc by folding back alol)!; break hnej,
I>r.n\' in cottar 1.9.1.8 and Qutl!'r lIlyle nne, 0,.... in
roll line rf\')n:'I 610 brellk litle. C.'I,lrk bataeee pojnt'\ on
D«k .and Clollat.
fop Colla"" and f'aehlj,!\ necuuse under collal'S an
1~lloftd s,.trm.cnl.llare CUIUI1the (I\)'\S .Iod stulptd
.'lh Ih~ nOll, CUI 101\ COIlIIN ftOfn ihapcd un,!tr
('OI1;),... dd Ih~ extrn I(IIIounl1110 ollh:r wacs cpa,.:
~,. Add 0.Se11110 rever on nn:lna. rto", bre.... polnl
to c(IoUAfpoint
18 CLASSIC R~EfI"R (,OI_LMI (rAILORED
DOU8LE 8R""51"EI)1
The COn"lrtl('1l0n ft., Ihe $:tlnt u~ ror 1'1 gentj (oll..1t
~otc: (b~dlfTc-~nt1-hlipc nt the top o( the rc"""CD.
textilestudycenter.com
20
......
-e
19 21
19 ~IAND"RI) RI'VPR
Con~lruel 115for gClu~\:()lIllr. but use C,'lStlDl ncx:khot
or bkJd. .111(1jonl 7 to I In CUI"\~a~8hn.-n
Cou., ",ltll IJ(I"·~·f~t~rlll ~'!llk J'lC)inlIon 0,11 11"(.
O,\.jdc roll;Jf between (Cfltn: bJf;1.;31ld potnl I Into
rour ~14)n~ CUI out, C:UI tip hnc, open O.S~ «('.lCIN
(or "ider CQII:If'$),"I"r1l« round rattem
~ STANDARD ReVER WITti CONCeAL~D
STANO
C(loOSlru(:1 )ulnd,lro rever pauern, u,ilh coll:ar. Dna.. ' in
cceeealed rutnd n1id\\·.lf between shoulder bataece
)"IOinllind roll line, Proceed as (or sJu:ped C'OJl\~rtib1e
collar (tef: 8 page 70..
21 COLLAR J\NO (-lEVER \V(TI-t CO~IPLETE
STAN!)
Censeruct It standllrd rever pauem "'llh colLl~ bUl
mC.llsun:'n)~nt2-3 • -'em (or Jl.'plh or
i"IOlnd~Ulft'd).
Col!!tf ,nU\' I1I('CIft!\'cr In hre"lline pc'Ilnl I
CoUar AndS':II)II Iruce collar, Join 6 to I ",Ih limit-hi
nee, "halK' neck CdatcIe) pOlnl 9, ~,$c:md~n (men I
ProeC'CtlI$ (or I'hUllCd l'hlrt L'UII.lr {~( 9 r;.,rc: 70).
l: COLLJ\(-l $f'I'I\\\',\Y FRO~' NECK
Tract round (rolll bcdiee, kr\\'C.t n«"'u'K t\"qu,R'd
.In,ounl ~"n(rur" arul back pauern ('un~lun
~t~ndtll"d I"<\'.:ron new 1\lXkline. ~hh 0('(10botc'k tl«1:
lDC'.asul'elllcnl.
 75
•
17 18
Gents collar Facings Reefer collar

,
, , ...,
, , , ,
- .-..'
,' , I
I ,
'' '..... \
"", ,
I
, ,\
,."",
,, • •,
-, ,
,
t ....-
~ , ->'
•, ~.
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I I - , I , I
I
,--_...u....,;._lJ1 _ .....

19 Standard Rever 20 Standard rever with

-r concealed
\ ~""', ....
stand [:f1~
,, \ ,
"
Collar with lower stand ,,
\
\• •
8±IJ \ ,,

-
I

• .'-
u,
f~
•
• • i"'t!CP";--:
.....
-' "
•
22 Collar set
away
__ , from neck
_-

,
-
,,
"

•
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-,,
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•
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•
 textilestudycenter.com
76
23 FRIUro COlLAR n 23 Frilled collar
t()I\~lrUl:I
., nat c:oIbr of t"Cq\lired m
•
lIhapc lrer: I page ~). D,,·td( rrnc
-c:l' )t;'('lionl. CUI
S\.... OUI. CUI up uee,
lind open tilt n«l. ~l;('( .Imolil II 1',,11
•,
23 tln..'I.: Dace round colilif mJllallS a
litnOOlh bne, rhiS m,alc:~ont)' h.alf I'
ooll3r so roU.lr R"qUJrtS. bl.clr.seam.
, ..
24 ~RILL[I) R~Y"R
Tmce round bod," bloc,". construct t'I
,"QII",rlind r('\(.f b.1~ on the mcthod
ur mak.Jft¥ ... Pi.) ~lbr tt(( 17p;'lgc '_--:~;>
74). Cut ofT rever; dnid< mte sections, •
cut up itn1:$and opm out 6an as
sho,,·n. Tr.Kc roued panern,

15 SI~IPl£ C-O\\tLCOLLAR
L()\\'c:r O«klinc- ;appn)l:~3et'n III th~
"h.ouldcr~ 1.5c:m:.11 ""I~
~ck. 3.Stm 24 Frilled rever
31 centre (rODI.
~1,!\tkne.... nedcbne ,...1(115I. 1. 3. 4.
Sclu.11'Cup and "eRn:.., from 5. S (. =-
.ltm.
6 1-= the mt'.a'umncftl I 1 tmc~5ul'('d
24 ill " (:\1(\':' minu~Itm: tqu~reup
I)r:l\\' It p;lr.alkIItM 2cm bcln\lt hue
(rom $.
7 a. the m~:t,urc:mml ) -4 (nl(,Mul'td /,'
In II t'ur,.:) mlnu, 0 ~em: M41.1.'rc up,
7 9 UIIC Ihlrd the' me:uu~mClll 6- 7.
-- ,
7 10 one: thud thC' me:41ltW\'IUe:ol 1-8.
Curve tile n«kll~ O.San on e.l('h
seencn M sh~ d. 1.....
-
\ "'
. ~
5--11 is (he- depth of c:oJt.r (a:tmp'e is
17(m~.squ.are:across.o 12.
F()td IIlong. (he: line 11-12. CUI 01.11
pauern \\ itb paper foktt"d to f('PC-.l1 the
Sh!lpt..

-.
25 Simple cowl collar
3'- ..
,
,,

.... ..•
~

.... 'fO"
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"
--
•
•
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 77
Part One: Classic Form Cutting
6 THE BASIC FITTED SKIRT BLOCK
AND ADAPTATIONS

T~IE TAILORED SKIRT ULOCK p:a~<73

I S1'RAleB r SKIRT 110
J l'ANt:..L SKI_Ri !IO
l s,'RAlGtIT SKIRT WITli VEr-'T I'LIlAT - "OX PLEAT so
" Sl'R;-\IGHT SKIRT JNVERTED PLIi,\TS 82
5 SKIRT \VITH ALL~ROUNO l)LEA·I"S 82
6 KILT 82
7 GATIIERED SKIRT 8.
S GATflERED SKIRT WITH PANELS SA
9 CIR(:UL\R SKIRT SA
10 1)/\SIC ",'LINE SKIRT 86
II FOUR GOREDSKIRT 86
12 SKIRT WITti EXTRA FLARE 86
13 (iORlD ;\+ LI~E SKIRT 88
14 GOR~D AND PLEATr.I) W LINI, SK 11<'1 IS
IS 'i\' LII'I SKIRT (iATIII'RED INSlir IS
16 C;ORbD SKIR1 90
17 GORED SKIRT W!TII LOW I·LARli 90
IS FLARED SKIRT Ur-I'RESS£I) I'LEATS 90
19 SKIRT WITH BIP POCKET 92
20 COWL SKIRT 92
21 SKIRT wrrn CiATI-tERED I'RONi 92
~2 SKIRT WITH GODETS
23 J.\SYM~1ETRIC,\LSKIRT ""
94
24 SKIRT WITH A FLOUNCE 9.1
2$ \Vt\ISTBANDS %
 textilestudycenter.com
78
The Tailored Skirt Block

i..uSl'tl \\'III:n the "tlr' as ltDl

TIl< 'ill1omd ~kin hlc>c1rr; 9-10 1.2Sem:join 10 to poinls I ;and 71'iJ'th dolted
rcqu.r'C'd10 be anached ro :, bodic e, LC:I$"a'le: h:... linCio.
tJnon Idd«i 10 Ihr hil)\ of Itlc skirt and Ihi.. il'O a 1)I\idt' the line I 10 into theee ".lrl~ marl. poInts II
doscr fit. The ..~c se.rm i..11)0\'1..'(1 for\\.lrd. ..nd 12.
'"Olf ThC!'rt l) lem elise It! the \\'lll~lIint:of lhe' o..ln, U~inltht line: I 10.~'Iuarc .,)o"n (rom polnb 11 .nd
The ".. isthne of 3 skirt should 3hv,I)$ be C'".LSCd onto 12,~...th dolled Unes.
Ibt ","In .~istbilndor IXICNh,un. II_I.' 14(''1n•
•2-14 12,Seln.
Construct 1\\'0 darts on these lines, each 2an ,,--.de.
MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED TO DRAFfTHE
DNI'" in the waisutne with a sJi,hl CUr'\(':dnr. in lhc:
Ti\ILORED SKIRT BLOCK (example size 12)
.side $C:amcurving it oUl\\'ards 0.5 ern.
R~(cr- to the size:chart (page II) for :lIandard
measurements,
f.'ront
2-15 qeener the:\\·:,iSImeasurement plus 2.2Scm.
" .. rt.t lOan
15-16 1,25clu.join 16 to points 2 and 1\\;Ih dotted
!ups <).Ian
line£.
..~i$:110 hip 20.6"" 16-17 is one third the distance:2 16: usm, the line
".kin knSlh (;.lTeclcd b)' fashion)
2 16. square do\\'n from 17\\ IIh II dotted line.
17-18 IOe-m.
SqU;J~ d(l'lA;n aed across from I,
Construct "drlrt on thislinc: 2cm l'iid('.
1..1 half Itte hif' I'Acasurcnlenl 1"10$1.5em. sqUII~
Draw in the "'lli,llinc ,vith II shahl cunC'. dn." In the
~n; Ihl\ line ilo the centre Iront Hne,
1-.) slin 11:'";,h. square 11(;1'0115 10" on the- eeetre
~de $C:;,mcur"jll$ C)ul\\'urd" O.Scm
(ronlhoe.
Spc"dal j\lolr ((lr Indhillufli f'lllllrb
I..S "111)110 hip Inc:l~urcnlcnl, MIlI,l1'(.w:ro(S 10 6 on
If the "1)i~ti~ ~ln«11in J)ropc>rllon 10 the hIp ~lI:C'of
the «nttl: front llue,
thr ~Iand.lrd blcx:k. Il1tf\:l1sc Ihe "Jdlh 0( lbe d~n) 10
2.Scn1. This, "ill require you to dr.. n:
Back t-9 quaf1tt waist 1)1\1$S.2Sc",.
5-7 quarter the hip Ihe<&JiUrCIUCn, plus I.Scm C'~. 2-15 quarler "1.list piull 2,7Scm.
square dO\\'R to 8 on the hemline, Tbjs ensures a 1l1UrC even suppression around the
1-9 quaner ";IISI me.. SI,lI'(111CIUplus 4.25 em. "'2iSlline,
 79

.- _...
10
-.
~.--.--~
"
.11
" ---
~ " ... " -- 7
- .
•, ••
,
•• ,•
•
, •
, •
••
• ,,
•, ,, I
,
•I , • •
, I.
,. •
• ,• ,,•
I •• ,• I
• •
", I • •
•
•
•
• ••, ••
•
•
,• •
• tlip!1M
•

l
I "'" ',nn, !
•t
!
~ "
i

l • •
 textilestudycenter.com
80
1 2 Skirt Patterns - Examples
I... -c
.....;II;:
.. ~
~J ('hfl~Ih~ (d,",:1 u'lrt Nod If the
,LI,I 1\ II IIC'pantt.c" 100nKal ux Ilk

,I \,.~
1.llIor('d _..I" blo..:" If Ik \1"t h 10 be
IItUlch~dto a bod",~Uie lhe ,..,,, of
, Ih(lI"'O'llIl~( df()" bkxk.
\"111" 1)lItl.. AU "',1lsl dms an b.,(
•
r- ...' II '1t'.J F-
I 'l ~ <.. I
their pU\llion\ tnO\td. but 1M dan an,
nlu~1be e,enl) d~lnbul«l.

,'I \ \ ~
I STRAIGHT SKIRT
Trace round to"'" bIoet,.
I I
~farl:"omti I and ! oa eeeee bird:
line" 1 J. I em. JoiD I to J. This

I I bttomn nn. (Ulltr ~ inc: it snn

It sh,hl )~ln,IO lbe-bact skirt to

I pre"cnt )(,llln,_ to...t"' ,Au NMt ...

.I,rfl'Nhl '*1", (Jill"
1\(1\1 2.S(m nOli'll 10 'Itd~'lCafru:a1 Mln

L-
I
I
I
1'1111~ I'KJinl" JOin 4 10 hlp point
NOh.' ,\ completely JlnlltJ.h1 itltt can
be CUIwithout ''*111' or tbR'

I 1 I';-\NII SKIRT
I f~"t tM \If.,,pt "'-'It p.at~ Dr...
I ",nC" hnc"\ on (ftIonl• ..s
bkL T,.. ....N

L (ron I .. nd Unt bikk d.&n QACOtkw

lin« ( ut up p.lMI
dlill
a.o
ud ....
,hlll"n. 10ttratalc 1_ ~
rrllc~ roundn~ pr;alltm 'I«tJoru._
...... ,. .ct.
r'l1, 3
,I 3 S rR,\IGfIT SKIRT '''ITH VEI\T
I'LbAr 1I0X I'LE;'T

( •
~1
Trace Iht: lIlt"dighi ski.rt pattern.
1\11('1.; (\I:lrL centre ~t tme.

I
"Irat .o;,i,ffl JJn,. J\deI a pbt to .hfi
line San _.de. Fokt patkra OIl pkal
'iltch hne ~ndcut COL

I
I
,
j \
I
I
I
fron' \lar1 pit-atbee, tnasfn d.an
10Ihl' lit)( ~".r"IC'.,.._"m.
I'k« or p.Ioprr dra Ih~ p:an:J1d
8.:m MIYI«n ~
~
0. a ...

PI-It to the ouler

hnt' ,1\ 1ft'he d,..,r.tm. trot« rounJ
p,IIIi:I", I old p.tllcrn IIlonl pic... 'I~
IIU Ih.11 pll.'.1t ")Id~ 100001rdS «nl~
rn(UIl. ('111111.11J'llIlIcrn

I
 81
1 Straight skirts
r'"""I r-
..,... - "r-_
---- ... - ... - ...... _-- .. - ~-------
••
~

.....
I ~
u

.....
I.....
tlC)nl ,
, .:::a- '.--t::~:__
__
,.... ~'.,.----' L- ..J
J > • •
2 Panel skirt
r-,",n---,
"•,
•,

I
....
I.......
I,e l -" .....
--
3 Straight skirt with vent pleat - box pleat
r-. ""r--,
~-,
"•,

-- -.
- -1 ..
• 1
s
l-• I II
r I - ..
I~
1

- ... , "". ,-
 textilestudycenter.com
82
, S' RAIGIIT SI"RT
4 'NV, Rill) PLE \TS
-c Irece ~tr"I'''1i"ln ptilrttm
01(,1t. ()n. ~ ~ 01 p.t.pcT d,.
'- 0 .f c II I f- 111ft'CJ'lr.alltl linn ~""' bc1.. ~ r&.ct-
t'o;I~~~~In ,,"Ufm t., ~ant1'.........
,,
,,
.... ;::; U.!C(!:.mulllI loW P"Iktn atoAi the
plc.11lint \,('I ,h .., pic ... (.:an,. Io. .. n.l\
~t\h:\(.lIn ('UI OI,JI
~ltC'rn
1"(1111'~I.lrk plcotl tme. Inuu(C'r dot"
1(1Ihl, lin(\.~p.lr~lC' pmcb. On a nC'\~
1)I~e of I"-'I:letdl'Ul. h\C ~DlkIItM~ S
em between p"," p;anch 10OUt«
I~
II.)in dl.l.r ..m. trace rouad puch.
I·otd the P;Ultm JO Wt pkat I (old>
to-a,di ~ \oQID. Bt.J pIAl !f,oI,.!j
l()Y.ilrd~eemre (rool. ClIl 001 pilllct'a.
'ote' If illl$hl bl ts tequuoJ lbc'
("(nlf'( ~nC'l~or Ilk plea.t QII bt an as
« the- pial QR be
;) IICri1r.,lc p."'t~1
1l"I~hC'J III rbe line t 2.

5 SK'R' WI ru ALL·ROU'D
I'I!'AIS WORK D'REC1lY
UNm ('Lon,
I).:.:kle 1l1~"1\10 .dth, _ott out the:

6 6 the hlp IRC.liun:1IICni "iii

nUlnbl:r or pkill\ mau1t'td 10 nult- ul'

..... :arPR'\ !'11'

\\'d'" dlm:lt) (ionIC'llie docb. elM •

I"«<.f I,,,,,,, dc1"~• sUn !no,..
r1u\, hC'm lind 1<;tJD....ua.<UIICT': "ldlil.
three' IImn.h1r"" ('it""'.
plw., ~ .. m
"IIO\\;tnlY rtK- (;lbOC' .. -.II ~c '0 \It
~unlcd II) obl.!ln IhlJ ,,-.dtb ~I.rk
pl~.ll(\I, Itb pini a~shM\~ in dl:.snnl
Fold plc.lllIlJnd IIIC,"to hip line. To
IIhapt \I,'11istluke: tbe- C'dge of each pk.11
and .ar it M'Cr1he r~wrtd ;amount 10
obh,in correct "aist ~t.

b KIL.T "ORK D'RECTL'

ONTO CI OTH
Tht rK..It" .. ,e- nuJ.C'"" ~,c.
lip, rk.." ~~~rrttq1llftd for ..
i\tll'" 10,111(,ok" ~ 01 «ft~ (h~t
"t.
(Ct, UtI" \\'..11'· IIIlhw. ~'*am,'una f(w-
untie,"" 'II".
 83
4 Straight skirt - inverted pleats
r-fk.... ~~

n or"'----,
"
o

.... .,.
-
5 Skirt with all-round pleats
COIQ, -'<Ilh
I----i
, , ,
,
0 0
L
0

"
0
L
•
L
0

I :'r'!:,
, I ,

\ .\
I 1
~ L

, ,, ,
I
0
•.J. ~I
:-1f .:.-' ,

_!t -!I.. -
,

I
,

I
I

f
,J
I

I
>"1 1 J , I I I

• I , I J I I I
I~'
"111JA.l
L..!,.' , ~
I
,
,

6 Kilt
lOtm; tCU\:- J l(lc:no! I 1Or;~ _lit btlOAc It..
w.. nK,,,~
•• ,
•, ,
, , 0

f'
~.
-' f:
~,
u, U o
,
,

-~
..
••
,
,
I
,
,
~W.f'"
0
0
0
0
0
0

0
 textilestudycenter.com

7 (;" (lURED SKIRT

41ff:' ,,~
I ,
,,
~tI,l"ft)(;.t~

~llLIrtcr
COl ""'\t t'CC'tAn,sn.
Ik",h d,,, Iml'b. -.il' _
h~~. I~mt C~C' t.k
•• II\lhM I ~<mbl,tkr ". t~...de-
7 .... '4:,lrn
\"r) (;lIlbtrtet ("\II dtttal) Ie doth
0' tilbnc; depth .. Ulft
7 C'ut " plece
hln",ltI1)lu~hcn,dnd ~m .lkt • .ant~
\\'idlh 11""ro\ Ihm: t.lme!.blJl \1J'c."
I he:I'ubrlc -.111bII\"C"tc be ~mrd In
(11)11.1"the ",dIll..tPbo:: "'~lilltnt 10
.... M.'I\«lic on !o\llt.lbkr~ onl)_11old
fllbrlC"I'Ll« ceetre (roat to raid 't~ll
,, ', ;.,d" 'l('i)nb .l1 ba¥" lhe mU3ntt
,,
,. I ~ O,\rHlREDSKIRT\\1TH
I
I
,~. I f',\t\ELS
I Triac( h.'uftd ~ block..
0r.1\\ In P4hC'1 II""=,,Tra:u(('f (ront
d.I" :Ind One bae" dtrt 10 tiw:st I.tn~
\, rub 0111 the al~r baeL d..an DI\tdc
back tlnd ftdn. ude ~nd(lq bl1lr "nh

I II dOlled lint. mlltlri 81 and 81. J I tim!

'''1 (. III out
('tn,r(!I'ronl" (~dlrt 8ac<1. r.lKl..
I l'(jll~ ,,-'und r;aMI, ~ ;arr"f'('\
~f.·nln>&.n: I' htm 01 r»nd .....
I
,
I
I
I
''''.I .....
."r"-"
h "'_,."..,._II,odd
~C'm e..~ ..t"O( r-tiwlm
OrA. lute ,..r-dd '" tk do4kd bnt.
'Aldlh 121.'m PId« ~! 10 .hI" hIK
lInd 1'.11."':ruund \lId.~ Scrn
Ito!!'1
N<'
tlare at hem or I.hc .SIde: sa ..
9 i\'Oll' \VhcnuddlRl fb" uu Ibft'
'" Hue 10 hipline:

'I t'IKCULAR SKIRT

The eonlll.rul.'tJonor .! rittubr skin 1\
b.1~ en lhe ort'1c. ~t;l~ lhe ";Ii'"
tbe: ~(aalC'C.
Inc-a'-Urt",,,nl
(.~.k·"l;at('1M ndru:s (!« Appc!ldIJi.
""'~ 1117, ~l.Urc bQ.clll.1')' (roM I
I 2 lhe r-wtIJ'" I J ~ ..... .....w."
Or~ It. '1UrlC'r ardC' (mas ! J 2 ...
\11" l('n,Ib \It Ilk • _..~ ,.\. m..rL
IIUI Itl<"Ie ~ t;1n:k;b~.
111t1(('ir"CIII.. , ~lJrt ('Oft\CfW't che
,.."IIl.n U\ (", the (~n;u"r 1L.rt bul
111IIkOthe fClllow,,., WII:t'""INJon'
I 2 I"'H.~ 1M ";ldlu~
I 1 t\\t\:(.he t ..dlUi.
 85
7 Gathered skirts
• _r..;..
...... "''"'" --- ~"'Vf'f1

"1'"
,,
n
• J n I: J
I &
• i:,
" ,_
&

1, "
00<'
""'" ,
I
''''''

8 Gathered skirt with panels ,- ''''''

,, r.I f71. ,fllr""1
, Of
F~~ "I ;;~,t
., ,
•• "
,,

•
'• ..
....
,T
.....

.,..,
 textilestudycenter.com
86
10 II.'~IC '" U'E SKIRT
h- 'M 10 Tr.K'C R'Und N"" b&od.-.
..,.", (·h.Jn~ lk!c. (n.1d..rt
,nl0 ."., I em tUrts ~ ~ J'IOI8"
"'heR "all~lllnt." d".sed IbRT 1ft'"
I ron' .hc b.lK ,,( IhI:d~"~ drw.

....- ..
----.;.~
~ 11
\~rll~111IIIK.~to bc:m C~l out PoIllc,n
II"d
dll'l,
cut uJ'll,-cr,,, .. lllrIC'J. Ckbt Uf1

,,, ,
••
"1111.";:on II IH:'o\ P'(\'e
0( p;I~" InI~
ruund new outline. ~111~('SUR"1m-ftllt('
, • opcliin¥~.11 bern ..re ~u~1 Add 2 ~fm
• • nllr(' In hem .it Side lIQID.
•• 1).",10; Red,," lhe '''-0
_-.usa cb.rts 10
•• I em dnd dlil\\ 1ft .... leal cbn
•, mKh\-aybd'AC'O From oopW <bru
,
··., ,,
drop \('rtK':allll'la 10 kat... Close tbc-
'''0 Out"r I em cbrts.. 111m prott'Oi as
(or Ihc (ront peltlem The liaR:
••
------ opcnln,'\ :,' tlk lkm an be ~
-- l-qU.IIIO the rront pcuem if required
,I
, -,

,
I ,\dd 2.~C:ln 11.:I1l:10 hem al $Ide: seam
I
I
\ \
II l'OUlt GOR~DSKIRT
.I I
I
,
A four tI.fll'(d 'A'ilne i.~an...llh the
,r.-in !lIthe «nlf'( Or the- piMI_.1I
.;
, - tu&\(' II belle'r 'h;an,'
IJItf''' 'Iilrlo in hipLDC'!m&t1 po.nl' I
12 ..• •.
,
,
"nd 2. , 1\ m~,1) bct.ft'III I ..... !
\lilfL ,n o,,"n.al ..s.t ~
bloc ... n'-l'"potnb " ~ S_
01 ...
"'''Dt.
,,

,..
•, • 10
) bet. co ...ud , Jo.. J
6 1\ nlld......
6 'rh., '"1< ~ Ilk rraal IIGot.
·,
..•
• •
frolll
.'!(lh'
1~NC'C(dII' for- biKk.
'hl~;~Irt ean be cut on the.-
",nlillht or cross,
•
• • 12 SKIR'rWITfi EXTRAFLARe
• •
• • Trace round baSiC block.
· I)rop \crllcal hnd from aD <bm and a
I POilU nu®." bct."CCU froot cb.rt &Ad
«nlr'f front CUI out b&oct HId (VI .p
\l:n.al liMit. C10w Ibn.,.-.0 p"l: I&r'f
at hemlll'W', op¢ft 'C'rta '- 00 fron'
r>'lItm to .,'COan cqal a.moa8l 0(
O.. ,t
1"01,-( r,Il.lnd ntvo OUttalk'!>oa .. tIC'Yo
"k c--e of 1l.lpcr Add 2.San fbl'C' 10
lien, "I !i1,1~\(,In,,,,
 87

-
10 Basic 'A'iine skirt
......'I
,f{ ,
t .- '"...
'"
I

·'1"
I

-- -I -. '- ..
,
II
I
... I 01 ~

,
I

11 Four gored skirt

-- ,, -0- •
I {
\ -
..
~

,f
.I ...,
J
1-

• • • •
12 Skirt with extra flare
clw:dJlb
, b
"nn r-

.-
n •
!
• •u
1
~,
I
'. ,
,_ J
 textilestudycenter.com
88
-o 13 C;OItED 'A' LINE SKIRT

- o
,.()
...,
trace round 'A'lint' skirt pJttc:1lt •
t)II('1.;Ora" In hirh~ 3nd ori,in:aJ
\itle ~;1In (I.'I"t I'Olnl\ 1.1.,).4, on
hip lind hen,hne, I S If one ItUrd I J,
13 I (\ h. one third J '" Ot'irA ,ft p.tnc:1
line. IJ.ln,rtt the b:lcl. dOltlceto lb.,

"I 0 11"1 I..ie. 7 1<01 Rlhl\lrll)'.s 2 8 o m~".." 6 .. ,

rill, rocthe it-din line: (Qr ,Kfc ~OC'I
10 _ CUI up 1""11.'.1 line "nd d~rl \h:lPlQ$
.._ I -' rn,,,·( Mun,) n(\\ po'ltem ptc«tr..
10''''(111( Preeeedt,&j ror ba<"~Ih~ if DO
'It ,0 .1 dnrt In (ront I'l'llicm.
14 NOIt: \Vh(1'I~klrl ~ no, e\cnty dl\tdcd
by panel lint'. square d4.)M;n rtOU'I
fupfine on slde panel to find gram.

14 GORED AND PLEATED 'I(

LINE SKIRT
Tmee ""lund S<'Ir¢dstirt plilent.
lillcir: F-Xfcn\l pte.., $(itch fine to \\~i'l
o b)' ruling :l :Stf'3lght hne (J;co;t\",(, sh-aplng
,, :U Ille walsr m:tt1cd). ~fart points 1 III

, \\'.lj)llinc; and 2 oil hemline. t J = 6cm

2 4.9('111. Join J lo.a t~ktalons
plc~u Une end CUI OUI palilem.
"
Sid!.' Untk EXh:l1drlC"1 "Iuc:h line to

., \\'ui,llIl1d n',1k~pl..:al (Of »de boIeL..,

~h:S<lnbl:dabove,
I)h~"lilUil~'klll;t I)m" II \t:'r1":..a bne
j\'lurk poinl~ $ ..nd 6. 5 6 _Ic:n,th of
Ih~ plC~ll)lh.:h hne. ~ 7 lind ~--8
6c:m, 6-9 Ilnd 6--10 • 9an. Jo,,\ 7 109
and ~ 10 10.
CUI ()Ut l'r.1("kin~
p1t'C):.
'''rollt P~lferus Proc."«d 115. for bote&:
pauems, there Is no wursl :shapmg in
the (ronl,

'5 'A' Lr~ESK'RT -GATHERED

INSET
Traee round ,/\'Iin< ~kln
p.lllC'm
U:ICl: ntlStc ';.\'110-":pcuem.
Il'r011i Or,I\\' in the d~p of 1DU'1on
1"1'\)111I",n(;m. O,\i<k In~ into lhl't'C'
CUI oul In-,d (rom (ronl
equul 11'11'1)0,.
pauern. CUI up the \e'tl\"*.IIlltn~ PIICe'
onto 111:\\' p3f)1:r; opcn OUI the SC'(1lon(,
hl~'lln,g IIC1" ,II lOp rOt plhC':r'llind
7ern IIIbcuum (or IlJ~ (~'Ok('..;1ft be-
lnscrted lf I1:1:luln:d.l1'N~ rou.nd ee ....
olliline: or in.~1
 89
13 Gored 'A' line skirt

••• I
_- •
, 1-- - ......, -
• •
"
I !
m

\ i •u
I , ,•
I

t.Ia
I
•\ ,
• • r ....
\ •
3
• 8

14 Gored and pleated 'A' line sk.irt

6cnt&1'I'I 6:m
'1 .:.. oJ 8 i'f'-'r--1
',""

I
..."'"
15 'A' line skirt - gathered inset
 textilestudycenter.com
90
16 OORgO SKIRT
16 17 (If ullilli Ih(:tllilorN siln b1oc:l:

ilJ ,J ./
- <,
tfiln$l'er complete 1.de SC'3mto eeeue
llf bh",,·k.• Rub QUI """'tSld;lln~ OJ'ide:
f'OOl und b,ltk ~kir' into oJ'. <'Qual
, )oI.,(II,ln"(In hiplin\' Squurt up

":
,
lUl(l ,101,\+0.
Nc" 1)llrlll,,, 0,1'1.) 10 lou..:b II dcued
\ , line 14('111i.l«>"n (rom \Io;ai~lhM~Add

/'
- .,

r-,
I em to \\'I1J~thn(" III (ronland ~(k
slde seem, t\llllox'_0 2.5nn darb on
back I}!lnc:l1uu:slind l\iliO I.St'm d:llrts
(UI frunt rml'lcl linn.. Add Jan 6.m:
I ~'
to hem of nil panel ~-"
-0
17 OORED SKIRT WITH lOW
" I'LilRE
"
"
" »i Trace round basic skin btod.
Draw in sh"ped )0"< and drop \~ttic.a1
11111:$
(rom the 6h.;lpcd point", ~1;aTk
balance points hlll( ....~) dO'rt-nthe 1t:ngtb
of the skit., E~t~(ld 'IIoaii(d:)n$10
>'C\kcline,
~k y.,fr(M CUI )'O~I."from JXlttttn, clo)("
~ dll"" lind trace round ~ dUlllt'c on
'-t " new piece or P.I~'.
(70''''' CUI out uln :and CUI up
\cl'IIcill hue;. 'rrucC' round the- (our
t:0rc~ I\dd 1(I" nia~la! bern, JOt" IQ
IIWIIbulnnee poinl\'
Nl)ll' Sklrl eau be Cu' 01'1lhe C~

Ig FLARED SKIRT
UNPRESSED I'LEflTS
.., rrut'c ruund b;uic bkld •
'laC''' Drew '" pk::u tree, mo\~ inner

'\• 18 dllrl onto Ihi.:.lin~CutoulP'ltlCrn;and

cut up pleat liDe. On a new pic\x-of

\" I
... "
paper draw vertical lines 1-2 1-3 and
3-4 = $cln: 2~Sand 5- 6 =-7em. Join lines
3-5 "n~4 6,
Plnce Ihe pieces or b:tck C'.lcl! side' or
line,; 4 e aod 1f\1(C round.. I\dd Scm
\ [lure to hl:'l'nhnc III c."Cl'llrc tw:...and
\ 7,$(.'ID 10 hemline: ut sick seam "'old
paueru un 1'111:':'1 hnc)" one pkal ro&dcd
IOw\lrrli eceue b.ac:l. the othtr IC)'lIo .;JNi
"ttJc~;un CUI out p.altcrn
11'r011iOnl\\ ,n pk-JIIIn<~1",1'1.)("
f'\')111d.I(1 10 ,hi" hne, pfOCftd ,)), (PI
I
\ Ihe: bl•.:...
Nore Sklrl can be- CUIon tbe- cro-'1.

l J
 91
16 Gored skirt

I
.
L"rl"
'.
, ,
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,

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I I
:lan
17 Gored skirt with low flare
r-I,,~n
--

I :~{ ,f.
I

,t'I .},
• , ~, ..., -
.... ~ ..,
'ront , : 'tOI'III

-
7,m
18 Flared skirt - unpressed pleats
Udl6c~
I ; .
,,"!rr-~ , J
• I
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"

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J+~
,
..
or,
, ~
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Cr A~
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....,trt..
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 textilestudycenter.com
92
19 ~KIRI II ITH HIP POCKET
19 lr;1"'C round Not it," bIoc:l
O~ In front .tnd bkt pmd ~
T.II",(r, (ront ~n ADdOW b..... d..an
onln IhC1C!11M". Dt~ 1ft po:Lc1 _
\1lo1r" ""fltb of (Mllt;k,rl .".
p.1"td 11111:'
up C.,
1,111('"," IIIICI Io,fllil Ieaee f'OUlW b...
~1f1~1(u'nl ",~'iun, Il~ 51."m ft.. re 10
HUh!" (die: (If plt"I:' :al the- bem
1....~I+rSldf 1'lIlwl r",CC' round ...d~
20 1).1",,1:L'UI.,w,1) alan, pocLtt bn,r \dd
~("nl n"'1: hi Sidt 't('.;un at ..
lop SWt 1'.1td Trao:' rcn.d Skk
pond '0
depth of poWt bof _ \dd
0.",
Iv"tl .ac'-J Tr.1IID:roUMIlOP silk
paMI. (VI ""-:1) a:Ioa.! podd lDk,

~o rOil L SKIRT
rflll,'CNund baSIC stltt bIod.
~1nlk p<lInlI mid",..~'bec"~ (toni
ddr, 1111\1 cc,n"" (ltH'!1 Dcack the dt'rtlh
IIf the cnwllirn.":trr.drn" 1M 00.1 hn('"
IIIIIll Ihe ba~ u( the: ihr" IU1dPOUlt I
C'UI\11'1 ,,!{Ie '("In~ "n\J.. 10ft"
row. I
II"!:\,,
On A new ,,~~ o{ p.r'C1 d,~
21 h"'I/~u.llj~ P1.Iocc w..k SQab (II
;1

,t;a'i Itt Ihl\ 11DC'.1Id ....... qI ..we

k·..m'Iolou.;1iII-nuOf)a"l_~1
Itn~
rt;It,,'t' round ~tlt"ft ...,.dm.. tt ..sood
cur'c III the hem,

ZI SKIKr wrru GATHERED

I'R~)NI
Frnee "utllIJ )ll'lllJbt st.,rt pauem
I)m\', 111),Q"'(' hOC".number ,5ttI:tollS I,
!..t," 1'1\Ide fro'" )kirl .'0 ltu~
:K'C,jnnli ~. 6. ,
"Clkt CUI )'O\.t &om: ~;;. dtJot;c-
4art.;.rat"'( mund pwllCT1l .. tth &GOd
\:101"'("
11.(" ('ut out.llftd In« bxl ~tOft
"'0111 (loll UUI r"'ftl. CUI .p ~I.o.
1,11(';,
Oren '\(\lldn~ IN .. ;& .... , ~~
1.II''''l'' 4\:m).tril~ roiIM r;ttlttn
 93
n r:,
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21 Skirt with gathered frOn~j"

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 textilestudycenter.com

rr-...
- .....
n... 22 ~KIRT \\ IT" GOOETS

22 ...
, ••
••
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Tr.l\'C fO.nd btiIc Sltn bboL
1),.-•• m (Qlk't I....... lrD.ikt (toftl An
-::...--" to 'r,~nl I"'IrwIIIW. ~rl J'O'kt 1"-'lAI'"
('"I "UI bkM;L .ftd At vr JMId JJah,
It.(to.I'll''''''' rr.a«
ro.nd _L .n.J
,)de I).:I(l fh'ncl"
IorOl1i Itl' c~ rouod (toftl p.MI
SldIJ ""nllll O',kfe .... ~ntllnhl fi\~'
23 'Icctlul\\ h. hipline. C~,
lI'on,lhc\('
IInt'li.tl~n each)0;00. ~rrru.\ 2cm.tt
Inner t'\l¥~
I rll~Ymurk! (lallcm
Codfl Drli'\. \U1JC:OaJ _: .. Ii;
pc'Il"'" I 2, lhe JDdd JcoartIL Orrcack
_tdlh 0( ,odd. dn. tbe .. -...1" C'\C'ut)
1.• cx-h ')Mk 0( I... muk pcw.u 3 ad ~
I SqU;IR' up frua tt.cx paiats. \iart

I
polnl) ,. ..nd 6 <NIl tbcsc lines. I S.aDd

J
I~_E I 6 al"( the I(M,lh 0( tbe pdct. JO.n
poilU:) ~. 1. 6•• 'lm

2) ASYMMFTRIC,\L SKIRT
.1 cerve,

'I'rll~ found ba'l"lc,kift bwt tdolOlb-io

" "' \04;1.:11011,),

I I)"j~ In h""(t p,and 11M\.dl,!IIk 10"("

Po"1,,1, ""0 fIt'(1Hlnlo.('UI .. .., tM,(1'
I"ntl, {VI"I" kaM>M.
I..rtf 'Ideo.~ 0.,. .... IW":~
(If "'*J'lCf d' ..... \enG 11MPII« \ide
~\" "'''m) .,r ~('I' f!Ud &0 lk 1l.tK Oprn
OUItoleb ~tJOa c:q-....tl} ... lk hmI tb(-
1I"",,,nl mauamJ _ .... ee, TfiII(C f\JUnJ
".tllctl1
Stnl'll! hhl" ","IKe- Repeat t.t.r
Inil rU";liof\) 10create snuB So,*-nCC'

l. SKIRr wrru A FLOUNC~

rrn~ round"r.U!!bl sbn P:UI~
Draw In lhe Io",~r p-.Dd tiDa: d,,'Kk

I hw."'('rroanel\ Inlo ~ Cut ~OI)

,
I
I
I
24
J
\ l(WoerrJndt.; cut np
rt«t or pa(J(1 ~
.a,..", .althe l\}orMd 7a..t
!ieC'tJOetr,. 011 •
1«11001 ~rI'""
Ik bc'I4lom
ftC'

I
I
I "1'lI« rolUld nnr
c.: IJr\('I,.
~t)lC"
fQlltfll

II" Iw\"f'\.\,)t') to nI~1Y thai

1ft.J.l:1ftJ ~

",bltll l:ur.-ftI p'ltC'rn ~.rc tlJWAc\I

lit ItlC lor. e.l\:h ..0.,,0.. l) bfIJ (Ion• hnc
"'Iuurcd oul (rum the' line (If IhC'
III(lvjC)lI~"C'I;hUII(tl lane I! •.
(
 95
22 Skirt with godets
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{:I:: :\~

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- - .... t,OI'I\

23 Asvmmetrical skirt 24 Skirt with a flounce

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 textilestudycenter.com
96
as
Straight
waistbands I.•
• A f : :I
WAISTBANDS
Slrlllglli \\'uh.lb:tl:ld"
\\'lIi~tbllllCJS
Tl\ac
are SlII1\fllC'IOry I( IhC') are
'-'---c?'l:.--~~-ji-.,C~''-_...J· ~I 011 'hI." v,01i"{lhn.c
~ftdIIR'nudein
•, ......_ \\'hhhll frt)lU l.S-Seen
Draw \\'lIi>I"-lnd ('"an Icn,lh and
double the wuhh ~Ijlft C'C'nU't b:i('k.
cenue (rone find stde ~,jm~ In.;&r\ (old
hne, ~\dd lin undC''"''r;tp or .('", ).1;1tl

e. _ .... OF
un)' buuonholes RqUlml,
Tbe "ai~lhn(' landv.alJltN.odof .a "l.;:lrt
can be dr"O\,."(!10 includt.J 'Ubs,13nli:11
;uuaUIiI (lr ell.$((c.", IUon) to cnable-
the "'l1islband 10 be C'lalllC;ltai.

ShI,lJ~.'d'\'uislb:lods 'Vo.tislbat'lds.sct
below the wo:lislUnc or "....utbands tb.;lt
reach high abeve tbe ",'3is,t RqUJ..r-(:
$1ulpillS 10 fil the bod).
Ikll)n' "'III", RC'm'O""C'1M \\-;Jlj.lb;and
depth fram tOP or skin panere.
r-.le.J)u(' Ihe n(\\ ~ "~islli:ac. \lake
tI 1tfl'Iiahi v."j,tb;lnd the norm ..t .... 1... 1
measuremenr: and singk .idlb Cui

,_ "'lli"b,Ind 1I11;'(Olrcbitet. ..nd MiC'

:Jeal\lll, open the: lo\l,'l'f C'dJ( "U It
bfoX'C')InC\
the 10\\ "~I\thn('
1I1~'II:tut(Intnl Add undeN nap lind
IOI)\\lfltp, nl.lrlr. buttonhoki.
..\bOll' \\".1\1 r'lI~ \hitptd bodt«
bl(x:k, 0,1&\\' in \\:&IMtwnd on bIoc~.
CUl 0111'\'IJI.!llband; CIDK d;J.Jb and
"'"~ o\'crilll) side so;-am) 4~m aIIOp.lcm:a1
bottom. rrace round pilltcrtt. Add
\ tI.lI)\\ttuPand uodc", rap. mark

Hipster
....\ buuonhetes,
NOlc AU.sbapcd \\lIi'Stbizncb:1m'C 10
hi: cut !lingJy:tnd faced,
waistbands
•
co
·--;----11 l-iipSI~'"\,'Dislbands ~llIrt to-""««l
\\'lIis,line on :tkart P'1IICf'QS-6an bclO\\'
v.'uistlille and tlU I'I~ .--a:m
nlctl~ut(ln.;nl rot n;JlSlbtand,
Onl)' \l:ty nllrnl'A ~lfilJfhl ";tI)Ib;ind"
""" Faced CIII, he used (ma:4:InIUm~.Sc:mJ.+cr
d~'(I')(!r
~"Inds u\C the ).~pcd "~i'tbllnd
waistbands
rr--m--,,-, dcM;,lth:d abm.c.
""'- "0'11
•.- "'11('~'"\Vlll ..tb;li...." Tf1II« round ,tlrl
"
" pnllfolrn10 hiphne. ~'tarL In the to"''C'f
cdS!)or facin"
ellt out ("(IDIS: (to)(' darts.ad pl.K.'C
stdc Sl,'lImj logclhc.r. Trace rouDd
rallern (facing C'.snbe cut 1ft 1""'0
SCpllrllte pil."CC5)
 97
Part One: Classic Form Cutting
7 FITTED TROUSER BLOCKS
AND ADAPTATIONS

T~IE CLASSIC TAILORED TROUScH 81.oCK p:a~.98

TAILOKEP SIIORTS vs
I CUL01TES 100
1 I'LEA'rEP CULOTTES 100
) FLARED CULOTTES 100
4 l·ROUSERS \\~ITHPLEATED \VAIS1'LINE IO:!
S FL/\RED AND GAn~EREf)l'ROUSEI~S 102
TI'IE VERY CLOSE FITTING TROUSER/JEANS BLOCK 10<
6 I),\SIC JEI\~S,\o...-\PTATION 10<
1 1-111'Sl'ERJEANS AO.r\PT ..\TION 106
 textilestudycenter.com
98
The Clnssic Tailored Trouser Block

MEASURI,\lLI\1'S RI<QUIR!;1l 1'0 DRA~T Till 20",21 2~'Ul

8ASIC TROUSLR III.Ol'l( ("""nple ."'. Il~ 1:1-21 qUIlrlC.'rwaist phi} 4..1S(m:jotft 2' 2! to
Rerer 10 the ..v.r char' rl);lj.:c II) (\,r &1undanJ touch thr hotif,ont>ll linr from G.
m("il)lJrtm('nl~ , ..2.;\ h.llr the: In~t\'Ulrtn'tnt S 9
l.l-l.4 Q,5cm,
'of~ ThCK 1$ I em elise III the \\1115Ihnc the or Joll1 21 19 und 19-24 whh ,I curve lOlK'lung a poln,:
trou\('",- The \\.II",llne Ol~tht Iruu~~ ,.:houldaht..." ~Il~ 8 14 -I.~5~m rrotn 16
be: ('~scdeme IhC' v.ni.~lb:llld. ~,. 16 20 4.Scln Irem 16
sees 22-24 "'.1Scm rrom 16
",,,iSl 70cm bod)' ri", 2$,,", t7-~ quarter hil' ptus I,ScJu.
hoI'" 94thl \\':ti~1to Iloot I~em 12..26 I em,
.,.~ lohtp 20.6c:m trouser bottom 1~111em.

~-
,,'w,h 22cm 01':1\\'in side $I::lIU ibrcugh polnl$ 22. 25. 21. 26:
ewve hipline out\\'"rd, O,)t:m,l.:ut\'\"2$-21 in"'3rd5
Q,Scm.
l-l-lfJ
I em,
SqIUrt' both \1,.\)'11frc,m 0,
1!-19 I em.
0... bod)' ri$('! S<1"1It'l: tlc:t()$~
Om" Inside: leg )11;';1111 24,29. 28;c:u,,~.::~N ,n.--;t_rd,.
0-1 ""1St 10 hip; square acress,
l,lScm.
B-.3 .. ~i~'
10 Ileor luclt~lIrcmC"I:square ~'t'O$J,.
Oi\ide thr lint 21 22 lme 'hr« P:I", ~fart POlO!$"JO
1-& h"tf ltte mea~lIrcnltl'll I ) mlnu\ 5,,-"f'I',square
..".,.,
ilnd 31 U\inN Ihl" Hne 21 12. "'IUlln.'l dO-n {run, .~lI
And .JJ,
1-5 eee twettth hip nlC~I"UI'Cnl('nl "hl~ I Scm: JqUOlrc
('on)lrU(I dlln!t(0_' these hn~ :!tm • Ide; knSlh rronl
upto6and7
point 3Ul1C:ln,lcnaith froll' 1)01111
31 lOan
c-...a qUoIncf hip n1c.I>\I1'('nl('n'l1hl\ O,$en, (Uf\'C hemline dOVo'u 1(11' :11point J.
S-9 OOC' ~1"H.·'Ccuh till' Illetl!llU'em('nl phl~ O.5m
1-10 lan:Join 10 6.Joln ts <} \"Ith IIcune loudln\. :'\011' I':of extra ~':'lIC III the crulch 11ft('iC"C: ,he.
.. poln,:
.uJaruatl~ln tin ('I.lge IO~. r.:r. 4.
klCj. 8 ,4 3t..I1' from S
mo t6 20 l.:!5cm frornS
Tr~ orr back .Ind front sections. II ISusuOlJfor the
,wl"S 11-2-1 J.Senl from S ~'ei: hloc-I: 10 face h) the leO Ol,d Ihe: rith' Moe). IQ
10-11 quarter ....-aist plus 2.2Scm.
Comtrvct ;II d.ilr1 on the line: from 0; length lOan.
f.c:c Ihr right, f)<1J'licul:1tl)ir the: desipt requiteS
10
complicatrd ndaprarlons,
..."idrh 2an .
.3-t! half IfOu~t OOlt0111 \\tjdlb 111inU$O.Stm_
TAI~OREI) SHORTS
..1-13 lhe: rnc.;;uuttmcnl 3-11 plu:s 1.3,,'1" «i"lQ 16---20
Shorts can be constructed from lin)' 0( tbe lJUUSt"f"
I-Scm; 11-14 1.7cm).
blocks (Icpcndlns on Ihe s,),Ie.
~. in ~c...eum Ihmllsh p(linlt~ l I, 8-. 13. 12: (\Inc
Tt'3OC'mllnd tl't,uscr blC'llCkrequited,
hiplnK' OUI\\1IrdS O,Selll, Draw a hllr pllfrtlll'110 me bod) rrse hne lit depth
.l-l.a tulf trouser bottom width minus 0.501\_
requU'fd •
.. IS Ihe fftC""'~bre1nt:nl'; I).
Cesve the: hJcl: hefUlh'Q d~\'11"".lrds I t"M.
Ot"0l\lInsult leg )C;ln19. IS. t,!: curve ~ t511\\\itN.
Conlinu!: ud:lpinlitlll,
07Snn
ALTI;.KN"1IVI; LEO SIIAPING
I~.,"" The (..~hlnl'i outhne ttl' CMIJ~('rI('~'$coo'<ol..nll) .11it'n.;
s-t6 qu.;tru:r the n'c;lsurcnlenl t 5~,"",uaf(' up '017 ,be dl.ilgfilm IIho\\,$lIhorl'I.UI\>c!('. ib.lplna. If d..~~
on the tupllne. 18 {)I' Ihe \\'I)I"llin~, ~hOlplna ito t\.'tjUIII,)iI. equal .nnOunb 111Caddal c.r
16-19 half the n'~~lSUf'C_nlenl
16 18. ~ublru('tc:d to t:.II,:hlidc: of t,lch I('tt -" mCNIll In the
18-20 2,."m, dlo1,11.rn_11
 99
The classic tailored trouser block Tailoredshorts
,. -.-.- hOt'll

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 textilestudycenter.com
100
cUI.o-n'ES
Draw rtlll1,d <itrlaight ..l.in palt~·rtI..
mark the hipline. ~11l,l hc-mhnt' depth.
1 oil':
(."111
1\!lck ~IIlfk 0.11CC'nl~wL .. ;tl"1
o I body It'\( plu~ I ~....m_
o 2 tlnl~hcd I(n,lh.
I' I",I( 0 I plu$I an
I oS one ciah1h hip tnC'"o1."urcm(ntpi u ,
Z~'(ll;$(IU,ttc do" n 10 hoCmlmc.
Joln j It)" "!th II. (:un"l:'d bM touching
a pohuJem (rOI11I.
1:"JlII .'tlarkj IIIa:nl~ (ronl"alsL
S-6 hody rise:'plus I.Sma.
s- 7 finlshed Icn£lb; sqeare eeress,
8 is Itlid\\';,) between S 1l1'ld 6
6-9 one C-lghlb hip mcasumncal jess
Jcm: square down 10 bnnlmc.
Join S 10 9 \\ilh ~ C'Uf\'ed lin< louching
,,~ II 1)01111acrn rruln 6,

2
I \\,
\
I 1 PI.EAT_I) Cl1LO'ITF.s
Traee Mun,1 cufuue r-allcm
Separate Inside leg seeuees (ronl lht'
..,11'1 Ik:I.llil)n
On ~Int\\' piece of ~rcftnt« round
,kin 1I«lion, Add un aem ''fn' pit;'!'
floud I(lc,") 10centee (ront ..nd centre
back,
"Iat( il1,jiJe I¢I '«lion, to <Ore ",r
pica!! truce roul1d
.told plcat~ to\loJrw the Mdc se..ms and
eut (lUI p:ntl!r""

3 ) J'l,\REO CULO'tll:S
Truce round cufoue p:ut(m.
Buck Drop \'crtkal bnes rrom Ibe
base or da.rtS 10 hem, Cut ou1 ~tt('m
and eur up the bees, Close d:l11$ 10
mnke nal'C at the "('nl1ine. Tr.K'lr round
pauem on .1 lie:"' pscce or paper CUI
out.
f'rl)ni I)rop \'('rtIQlllinn ftOm thl>"
rrolll diU t .. nd .1point "''''''-;I)
bct.-em
dart lind ,h~ centee rron, Clost d:.Tt 10
make nIt'!: '" Ihl: hemlu'f. opt.. ,1'1('
other Vc:tliCIII hne: 10 Ift.a~c lhe ,."mc
:1I1l0unt or n.II'C:. rrace round p:iIlCn,
(Ill II new PII."CCor p"per ell' OUI
 101

1 Culottes
o r- r-_,'
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....
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---~.-.~~
....
.
r--------
,11'\1""
2 ,
L____-- __.\,_/ _"O"__J

2 Pleated culottes 3 Flared culottes

r 'Tl

..../\
.".
-
 textilestudycenter.com
102
4 rROt ~FRS WITH PLEATED

4 ~{rt?
J \
WAI~TlI"f
rn'u~"
.nd .h",pnlln
Ih•• lit'( (.1 M tk ..-ant_
.I'Ib.r bc-a-
rrsce round b".,... If04I'C'f' bled.
II.," ('Ul~Ion. 1Mhlrtuw·.and (trrn
II \Iotdp ..I'tl'lrux'an ... at ~
(I utch IIn~
~1111 ~ 1'101111" I ilnd 1on hnnhn~
'.'(In In (R)m klll«OIm.
Dmw Iinc1 from I lind l to lncc IIrIo(.
"rollt rrsce round ft\)l1t trou:SCf
I bltk:k. (_'UIII~ross Lncc be. dJ'* lOp
~I~n ilion,the ,r.ambac:. Ope. 'an

I .t (ide lCoI m
""'2'tSIJiDto b) J.5cm
III."I~bM. ~'{Icnd
\\ alb dut aBoaUI(C Ihu
on.
I p''O IO.San (gjlncss.
three ),San pIoli.
~t:atl. polnl~land" Oft beaI_
this IIItO

1.5cln In from q K.UIt DfP bnei

from 1ilnd .. 10 knee tree,

• NOll' Mnl\l fllllnc~~ coin bt added "

L •
the \Io,II'lline b) openlft' lhe .... '0 hne
rurlhc:r III Ihe:.. 1t1~lhnc3nd INL,,,,

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,14Ic:~rplc.I''-

) "Ihlbllnd (·on'I"'I.;&J1I~Dd
i, f- tnjulrN (~96,

$ !lARIO ,'OGATl.I:.RLD
IROl .. IR ..
I race round ~~w: It'O\IStt bIod
Square do¥. n 10 IKm (rom (JO'Qu 1. 2.
5 3. " on knee hues,
Dmw )'010.0hne:,.on back and (tofll
Irou~r~Cut ~~-ay )'Okcs. C~ darts,
Dr" ....·round new shapes,
Divide b;at~lind front rrousns mto
four \('(lion) lit .."CC' fiee, SqQ.;&K up
lind dO'An En_j(" cbr1.iag..
C·ut up \('11(";11~ 09C'D S«UOD5 so
th.u the orwnlR, at Ik beta tI doubk
....., or 1M ....."1 fC'umpk ~"i 'em
at ""I)', IlC1ft II hnn.
'he \\'11...,,1tme 101_ b:l nvl",h
lin" I. ollCned onl) ii'
,be bmI
Add scm flllr'C 10 htm or llll~ ka
"1.'11111\
IIlId \Id( )(';Imi.
"rlt"' round new,h,lpc1
 103
4 Trousers with pleated waistline 5 Flared and gathered trousers
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104
The Very Close Filling Trouserrdeans Block

\I"',Sl HEM HNTS Rt:QUIllf,ll TO 1I11,\~'1'"IIE 21_12 quarter waet plu'l"cm (-i,Scm) join 21 2210
l,L()C~ (cWMplc \j".: 12) touch Ihe: IIn(, ~qlJlIl\!tJ OUIIrcm 0.
TI'OUitN or )C.ll'lj made Item close jilln'liJ btcJot"~are ...l.l Ih( nlC'IIKul'CnlC:1I1 5 9 rnlnlli O.Scm
orten m"d( IrOI1' r"brl('II \\'1111~lIl!:hl~trch:h 10 rl'O\id( ,u...14 O.$\'m. Join J 1 19 lind IIJ ~.t"11h a C'Uf'\'C
01 'c:om/on fil', touchlllll ~I 1)()I.,t:
The ('to)(' fil1lng Irou!>crJJclln.s bltlCk I!I dnan~.so sI;CC'!I 1I.Sc.ln Irurn 1lY.
,,(:I
thai the: lOp of the ","j,lb:UI" ~h" on Ih( \\.I;~ll1ne ~'CII 16;!4 ".7$CIU fronl 16.
bn$ ean be drafted to ,it l em bctow II (see 17-15 (IUillttrhip .nl::l)un:I'I,.:ftt plus I.Scm.
mstrudioM 10 bnK'kt'I.s). The \\'I!tig~ ln tbe- bact 12-2.6 lcm.
(flItcb tint: (see the ~In$ ;ulapulliou, pointS 17 J.l) 13--17 len,.
shou1d ;also be: "f;C'd Ior elcse filling. ItOu:K'N. 01':1""srde ~:1I1122. 2S.l1, 26: curve l~-z.sOUI
Refer to fhe size chart (page It) Icr standard O.Scm. continue the- side seem ('U_J1,~ to !7 as mo..'n.
measureeserns, 14-18 Jcm.
15-29 lcm.
Yo... lSt 101.~1 bOd)' rise 28cm Draw inside leg scam 24. 29. 28. curve 2+-.29 In I em
hips 94col wai$1 10 Ilccr 164"" 21-.10 hJIlr the mcasuremem 1l-21;.squattdm\1l
""3i~t10 hip 20.6cn1 jcrtnll holtom fmm line ll-~,C(ln~ltUct It d3rl ~)n Ihis ftne. ... dlll
.-;lt$lb;and depth 4 em width 19"" 1,1Scm Clem), length scm.

.--
Set"Olr\" both "'~}" Irom O.
6 IIASI(' JEANS AO,II""ATIOr-
.ronl Ttlll.'e oW frolu IICCII"n. n'iI'" p(Unl 6.
0..1 Ii$(' mrnus -tem (6\:n')~ ~u:lrr lIeNS"-
bod)' Omv. In ('un-cd 1)()I.·k.,:,Hne ) I )2 lind l'JOC~t b.l"
1),.1 "~'Sl 10 hlp nlinl,l,) .Icnl (6cnl): !i~llu"f('a(1'(K\. Cut oil" sid", 11ic<C (lions thc tine 31 Jl; add !.5cm
O...J ",;aI" to n')of nlC:I\U~1l1t'IU: "'IU.l~aero",. (ron, 31 Jl
..... hair 'hI: nl('asurc:'I1t'IU I 3 lI'unu~ Scm: SQu~rc Or.r.v. 111 fl)' "1C'C1i!II1UII)( to IlOlnl J,.
1ern bclooa e, 11)'
pie« \\,dlh .1.S olen" '1'rlu,:con' 11)'PI(\.Y..Irace off
.'''''~
1-5 coe I\\'t'lfih hrp rneasurcmeuu square up 106 pocket b:,g :1101)8the: line 31 32.
.1Id ,
6-8 quaner hip m~I~\U'tnh:nllninU$ 1.'<:In. ll.cl.:Trace ofT buck $I:<:tions:M.lrk point}, 17. 21.
~9 00(' SlXIct'Dlhhip rncesurcmem minus 1 em. !!.24. 25. CUI :dong hipline- 17-25. epee a ..~gc
7_10 lcm ....ppro,. J.S~n\ wide OIl 17.
JoIn to 6 :llnd 6 ~ "4th I' curve IOl,lching 3 POltlt: .7~ 1cm: draw In new crulch line- from 21 24.
sizes S-I~ 3.2Scm(rom S; Draw in pocket design.
sUts ,6-24 }.S('lnIrom S. 21-.\5 quarter the Inc:)$Uf"¢lnC-nlll-).:.
to-II qUIlf1cr \v:li'l phl~ l.Sem (2,:m,. 12..J.6 qusner It\C InC3SUrtnl(n, :2>1$.
3-11 hair jeans bottom width minus t cm. CUI ofT yoke IIlong, the: line 35-36: dose- <brt. Cun'('
4-1) 1M me;._s;urcmcnt 3--12 plu$ 2an tM tlnc... 11-22 !'Iud 35 36.
~.30idtsc~tm I l, 8.13, Il:cur\'(' tl-'Jour
f>.lScm.
)-1..h-'llrjeJnsOOlioln wklth ,ninu'i I enl
4-15 Ihe mr.l'urcnu:nl lem.
)--14 1'11,1$ \\'lit!s,bnnd The str:ughl \\'I,i)lb:.nd is; (UI
On" In\tde I"g seam 9. IS, 14. CU'\'C in 9 I~ O.1Scm 8,,"", (lll:tn) 1.lr¥uf 11,lU' the w;tj~1me.l~r'C'm('nl 10 fil
1M k>v.'(r "'ni~1,)()liltionll.
B""k SqUIIR:: buill "oIlY" front 37
S--16 qU:J.fl('rmei&,IIn-nlc:nlI S: .)41t1II,eup 10 110ft 37-38 t\\'i,,~\\'lli~Ib;lIld dtllth, i(ju;t.n:;aC'n»\.
lbe: htpltne. 18 on ~ \\'llj.)tUnc. 38 ....'9 "l'Iis.1 ttle:lllll"'(lnC;"1 plU! 11) .....ldth; )o(tWlf'Cup.
16-1' hllr Ib(' mea!>Urelncllt 16 18 plus 11,'TnIlan,. .39-40 p)' ",I~lth: 11'1"111':up.
18-20 2m't.
20-11 11,"IS'I,
Jt4-". h:llr lh~
~t:&r1: fold line
Illc.l.);u!'enu:IlI)8 ~.); SlIwait' up.
cJtl\\'n Ihe cenlt\'
 105

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 107
Part One: Classic Form Cutting
8 COMPLEX ADAPTATIONS OF THE
BODICE BLOC.KS:DRESSES-
JACKETS-COA'fS

1 h~:)~I.:Id.,pl;tllOm1,I~ all m~on (ann cUlling with the bu\t cbtl .'0'\''(:\'(1-, the
mnount or darnnr tbal 1bC'dl"!ii~ncruses should depend (In the rabflC .sC'kdC'd
F.lbrlC) \\'ilh )Ifl:lch '(:~raC1crh.ltes \\ ill c~plltl(l t\. cover Ibe rorm so m.Jn)' )In:lch
prmtlll~ br\':fbi cut. Ho-'C\'\"f,II c.,n be: vct)' f\:\\'(u'd!nllIO USCthem "'Ih tall kin.d~
of form cutuug. Thts illJm\.-:s the designer 10 cut closer to the form ~'('Istill (,fC'~tIC
seinestructure1ft 1M ~~n.
\\'hibt ~IP)' casu:.1 Prm¢l'!\$ are 'n:11 CUI', IhCY1,',llnalso be ('UI to the bod)' $b.,pc
csee _124)

UXC£RIE A;\O "OR~I rrrnxc IlKt:SSES page lOR

I 'ORA'TOP lOR
1 VERTICAL SEAMS lOR
J STRA PLESS BODIC" 1011
J CAM ISOLf. TOP 110
s 'Y' NECK 110

I)R£s.sf~ ANI) ·ORy•.;s)IA~~K· ,IAC~"'I'S III

I bASIC SHI~r DRF-!>S III
2 STYLED SHI~ I DR~ It!
,I I>IUNCESS LISE 114
4 SEMl,FlrrED l'I\"Ct.SS LIN!; 114
S CLASSICSfllRTORESS 116
6 EASY rrrnxc DRESS 116
1 J/\CKET - PLEATED PEPWM us
8 IlASIC rrrreo JACKET 118
9 JACKET - FLARED PEPLUM IIR

J,\CKEl'S l\XD COATS 120

I SEMI,FITTEOJACKETOR COAT 110
1 CLASSIC OVERCOAT 110
J H rrro JACKET III
4 FI rreo COAT III
5 H rruo CASI.AL J,\CKIlT 11.
C~ASSIC t'O/\T AND JA(,KI'T 1I1'~IS ANI) SEi\M AU ()WAl>C"" 11S
('LASSIC ('OAr AND JACKhT IININO~ 116

1'1", bouk hJl~been """'ten rOt btglllnCI'1t. Ahhough a t.UIOtN pek.e' btock t!
lnetuded, 1~(lh(r ""th a ("' tailorrd style Ih.: book Puttcm l'uJ11lft I'"~'rOiMrM
or
J(}(J.'"/,,. C'/(I'u/C unciC""'~'npoton \.'()\c" the ~ubj(c, lai10redg.atmcnlSin mu<h
gl't;JICr depth.
 textilestudycenter.com
108
lingerie and Form Filling Dresses
For (10$('lilting IInacrie. dtl,."OII~I('dlSht lind (\Chln;
"'~:'r. wedeu "IC tllit. 01' the ~I'h< lilian, df'l"b block
.aniJ reduce some (If Iht' ~l*~
ll'-ilot rOlln" thecloS( linin, iJrcq bloc'"
R~\Ic."C("II:h sill!: \C.UlI I.SeRI lat bu"t. 0 Scm .It the
'4;ah.l to 0.25cnl :11 the hips.
O{)ubk Ih" "Idih or
the"bU)1 dll~
SC)'n~ IIna;crie and "10\' 'hnJCtlC ')'pt"' dfd.<et
made In rllhrl(s wuh Slfl!lCh. Ih;tllllrt CUI on Ihc:'
CTO!o!lor are body·skunmllil Clth(.t lbaa bod)·fillinc
2 do nOI aJ\\';ty~lIlt'Cdthe ,vider dart !lnd SoOmC' truI),
('\('n use II rcdtli:<d dan

I 'ORA'TOP
TI"iI~ round Jingt'rtc block to requeed kn~h. Drew
In s.hnpcd lOP of' front and ba tt br.l. Om~
horizontal Line through bus' point. Tr.tCC'od' bra
sections. CUI OUt.
8fll Setlluns Close ba..:k d:lr\. trace round..
widen bust dnrl by I.Scln. CUI aero» \'C"rt.ic:allinC'.
Clnse top r,nc.!bouom d;trl'i. Trace mund uppt':t and
10000<r
~cll)n~.
Silirl Rub oul ,\.II~t dorl\, toke ..mount cqUI\--;aknl
or dl!rI Id'i;lpln~ nut '" the gam, h.)l( "l side sc-amJ
arid h-lil( lit eentre (ront and c.:"II'C'back "C'ottn'- Add
S"nl nllfC' 10 ht'11lof front and b;t,l. )C;lm", It".",
nllfC 10 lIide S(,llnt\,

:2 V~R-IICAI. SI;'I\~IS
TralX' round hugcrie bhxk 10 rtqUlrtd tc"llh Om'"
III shnpe of pcuic:oal lOP. \\tidcu bloUlWI b) I em.
IJrop vertical line.~from the base ot \\.•~ datll. Cui
out panels. trace rnund, Shftpe.$Omso( panel",
f'\dd 2cm ital'C 10 luau of panel SQms. 3an OaR' to

1
hem o( side seam.

\I ~Ol(' TIleskirts Ofpanels or Ihl;p:1lic~IS an be

cui on the cress in woven (abric or 00 tbe stt:!lgbllft
knillcd (t1brics. It nUll-streich t3bric is used .a !irrutU
I openins muy be t.... qulrcd tal lhot ~ ot.MdC'seam

J STRAJ'li!SS HODICE
t.4)\\'cr \,.Ir~lin(t ern lit centre fronl Oft bnter~
block: join to cclUre backline
Complcte Iidapt:ttioll or
the prin«,~ IinC'petlK'Oat
to ""II~llint: or dcplll kquircd TrllC't ofT f'I1ncllo.
Sh:lfl( III b:t\:l. p:ulI:1IU(cnlf': ~oIC"" ..~.hn( I em.
Rcdu(:t \'loth ~id~ S~llIn~by I em '" lOp «f,e onl)·.
redraw lOp edge shal)j_ng.
Sh.11X'"ui\IOI' 1'«1111panel ~.tm on (ront otnd "ide
rroul I em.
~1l1rk points I, 2. .) on fronl panel,
1--4 -= one third measurement I 1::1 S -= on...fifth
measuremcut 2-J, l')r:,v.' In nC\\. th:;tp!ng!ll lOp td;e
 109

Increasing the dart 1 'Bra' top

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110
The ,11,11 h.IR, bc"('t If .O\eft Cabo..; 1\
(ul on 1M cr,,,,,,

~ (',\'II\()I r TOr
TBll,:c",und IInr('fte W.,,;L I>f't"J' '«tol
hnt'~lrom 1't.1"C or _;iI\1 d.;an\, Om •
""ml"(}lt'tIIP \h.lr'IC the- hi," ."IJI"oc
.llh
,haJu (ur\(. C'ut II"'''), lOp I«'t.om. Sh.pt
"de "~II"Ii,Shll,.e In rl'()nt i3nd b..~"
2ean.
.~'I.t
5
'1'(.11'Sec:tiu,,\
t'lollC' balk doIlt. IntCIc:round
secuen, wnten bU~1 ..La,.
I.Scm C'IcN' bu"
dllrl. traee ",uml pa,taIL
Sklr' Rt,h"VC''Io-;tI:U cb:rts fro. lup
_ill,lIlne 10 b.-~or cbn~Cul out stln
CUI up \<rt)Qltuao. Cloec cbns *- mJtt1
7em Rate;a, hrm. Gr.ua '-: nu:tS 00..
«aIR of oprnin.... \dd 'em 10bem 01
.. '(An, Ami 4cm fLaK 10 c.:c:all'C'front
;andC(11IR' l\;tcl searre,

s 'V' Nl~('K
l"mc:e 'Ilund ~,-,,"plcle ,."""rico bI(I('l .)NV.
In .'tllpi"il \\'Ui\llinc frcm bati: "~I'" p"'lnl
"j'/J \t·",/ItIl,
Itack !>r...w UI 'V' nc\;lllM ')'nn'l<)(,
,h ..pe ~III"~ , tom 401 .." ,. n«tllK ('loIlout
",,"lion. t Ii)\(' nC't" ct..,1 ;aIId • .anc dMI
1 r~c ",urW .IIh \IQOO4h...W'at ~
"fOlit 1)'11""11\~"haf tdla:-L dd&ark.~
from "t'(L. r-:~lnlcqu..ab ~t.,. bad. (.\
(Io"'t )('C;ltnn.tIO\ot \tv,.. an. treee road
VtUh\,notllh tur\t'd 1,nt"L
~liltL\ Rub oul""l~'<bru. ~ 10~
and (rutU !i('lmli II~ \h01'D. the same'
alnounlItuuI, r(lno\oo b)' closanC1b('
\IntiS In the upper l>«110lU.CUI out !J.,fl,
"r.I(C found Add 1ern t1are 10 bc:Ol of
centre rrorlllind c.'('nllt b3d sarru.. 10em
R:.1't 10 hem o( )idc InI1l.
 III
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112
Dresses and 'Dressmaker'
Jackets
1
~1\lny ~tyleJ(ure b.l\tCd(In lhe- )hln dro~
;unllhc: iii \h:pent.l>on "httb<t a c~
Ullin» o. CI':;Y flllins bl«k t) chC))('ft(or
Ihe ad.lllU,hOIi Sh.lpin, III Ik "~I\,hn~
1::111be: \,1I,il:d,

Ili\SIC SIIIF1 DRESS

'truec rOllndOIlI!'PIi:Wd~ bIod.. l)r:II"
tn cut...ed Une fmm IIrmK)'t to rronl darl.
CUI up side $IC;Ull,cut out block.
J'rOIiI CUI up eurved hee, cios.t'bust dan.
trace round, Lower neckline. Sb:tpc .side
_'ilC.".1I11 and top of dart, ..\dd 30n .bn- to
ht'ln ttl ~idC'seem.
lJack Rub 0111 ba(;k ....~kSI 43rt. l.o\\'Cl'
,, neckline, Shnpe side seam, Add Jcm ftal'l'.
,, (0 hem nt side seam,
CCIIluf .'iagr:lm $h""" l\4o-pm fbi
• cottar (r..:f. I p"",< 68).
$1«""" I:klugn.sho\\'SI('~'hmed shor'
(rt': 6 rx1se-48) ~nd 'Irotl,hl culT
IIIc:c\'~
\\ hh 1\1(.'1I1g("ago: 66),

,, , 2 STV~IH) SHIFr DRESS

Tru~" rount.! C'II~)'fitlinl .1m) bIoc;,l
, \\ hhnut WIll..! 'ihllpin. CUIup ~c '\tam,
•, Ir4lIl!>l'cr bU'1 d"r' to undcr.ttm
011(" und ",'NIIIISt'(llon.. ~ In "lUllfC
• 1Ii,..cktinc.
)'olu,)lines aed I~ .. ",,"b:lnd
OroI' pnrullcl pl!!":I!bnn (rom ~('l and
(r<,nt )'Oka
~I:-Irk poinu. I 'Ind 1 on b:IIckyale bot.
8uc1: Bodlce Truce oW b"d; bodice.. cut
up pltUI lines. open approx. Scm: murk
fold line dewn eemre Q( pJou.
•• 2 Utlcl.:\'ok.: Trace:off bat.:k)ol.;e':mark
•• point "3 at.centre back. 1-4 is lhe-
meosuremem 1-2 on back )'Ol:r line..
Mcrk buuonbole poSltlOO')"
J'rollt lli,ditt Trace ocr (ronl bodsee, CUI
up plcut lines, of)('n IJpprox. Scm: mark
(old line 410\\'11centre uf plc"",,- (0)(' bu"t
!JIlt' (the d:lrl then becomC'S4 p;art or
cuter ),kjll.
1"r(1I1I ,'okc TI1IC:C: ofT ftoftl )()l.C.
IIIIc:kIIflii rttlnl Skin."l'r~ utT',l.if1
)o\"'lil.n~;(UI up plC41hI\() oandop(n
appl'Ox.Scru, (\tar'k fold IuK do-Aneenue
"I' ~:\I.:h,,1t~,lt.
1..0"'\\'I1I,lb..nd rraee ~ffb;a..:kand {ronl
Wolislbllnd!. JOin OILside $GIRl.
SI«~II' Short sleece (ret. 6 P',$t .a,.
NOll' The yokes ere $CI{r~
 113

1 Basic shift dress

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2 Styled shift dress

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,,-I
] I)RI~CfSS LI'E
3 'trace round
drn) bl«L T;JL"(
OM-'p!C'C'C dchc-
1cm 011' bKt.
"I....
\.hnukkr tlkl\ *tudd dan """'aD«J
and Iem urr (ront .tkxJlder Tran,r«
bu~,dar, 10 centre ~houkkr. clr.. an
('\)111 end bol(L nn:k;III)C, t.o..C'f bitc'L
~\.II'll1olnl 31."111, ..b;apc 1ft • .scm
Reduce b.leLdart I ,S~
1)1'01' I'lu1el hne) from bo&w or fronl
IlIhl hllck ""liS' d.trl,. Cat out bloe:L.
cut up !lnt"~.Inl).
10'0111IIltd IllIIc" CUI up pud Ima.
traee found panek. sb:lpc KaIIIS..cW
3,SI.""' tI~rc10 hc!1a 0( pa.ad sa.ms.
Scm R.Jf"Cto hem ol si6r: ~ and
2C'mIbn: to hem 0( bKt SI.".3&
Add Qlcndcd f3rinp EOtop 01 (root
.Ind bocLposnel,cms~.s 10 oed
4 edit or ede polncttams.
SIt"t',,, 1)c~I,n"h~s '"'ttY ftaR'd
",lee\'1)(rer 10 raSe 50).

4 SI,MI.I'I rn,n ('RI"CIOSS Li"1

Irlll.'lll"nundoee-peced~ bIocl
Rub OUI ,jJe ~.am ..nd "aIS' d.ln~
1""'" bJt.fk."C pCllnt'\I' ~rm
Orjl~' In IIltk PoIACh')nd\!upt ."'~
I e 1 5("1 on C';I~hp.aod On..: III
nn:1hRC". loiLe • O.an cbn (NaIl (,onl

,, :1 , n«"hM I),... .a ... (COlD p&Dd

to bU)1 !'IOtnt ('ut ovt bIod. ADd u'_
'*
, e
~ ,
I ~Incl;c.m,
"roll! ('Iolt(' bu.)t aDd rwxk <b.ru..
Ih.ICCround, ~Iar\. buttonbolcs.. add
bUI(Oli~Ulnd... nlall reser Add Jan

II Oan: to 30idepanel ~ a m. Shape paocl

)0(11111.
Side 1111,,111 'Iraee round. add Jan
0:11'(to !,-Incl ~;&mJ. add a 1"Ut ~I
I (6cnl ,It lOr. 9cm aI bottom~ 10bkk
I I p.tncl k;am
j\dd C'\ten"on Ilc. .... SO.. ('IIt ••
I
I ro.- pocLct Slupc-camt..
I Il.. ,1rr, Tract round. add laD late' • .t
"IC'.JI In IYne' 1o(';amI~lOr _ pilnrl
Shlll"C:jl(ilm
"',1\10 bell .h.f)C' a' lop 0( ."'a~tllnc
1,,'1t .,ul 1"lC'Lt'1 TDCc orr beh t-h.lJ'l('
1'1,1"' flOck4'l \104'1112cm &On,.nd "",n1
wlde.
C.,IIII' I 1.11coll.Jr (0::( 1 P4C 68)
SIf<t\I' Shorl ...1('t'\""C'
(not 6 p;a&C' 43)
I'IIC'I,," 'r,atc .. ~P'lra~(.a('lft.
 115

3 Princess line

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116
s CI.i\SSIC SHIRT DRESS
T",cc (';\s)' fil1il'lt C\\iJowpam:drn'lO bIoc1
~~ (slml~ht ~hfeseams on bodltt).
v ~ 6
('\1n\'(rl U.5<:measeon ~['k '\hotlkkr Jnto II
8rn:11I dIU 1
... ~
Or:I~' III rilnlp linc an rront ,t'rt lind bc)dM;'C
:!c,n claClh!ihlt (II' t.'CIU~ line
Orufl ~hit'l i'IIIUo((:)'(C"" .den bodICe' 2(11"
--~~ -,-. k;),.
- ... _--- --- I()\\'c-r 3rnl:lC)1: t c:m; n:r l.a ~ ~).
ii" ~ I'll \'1'
...
I II,'
Murk panel Hue On '"'"I .LIM
"okl',) Draw blt..:k JO"~ line. slope down
~ O.5Cln from shoutder dart 10 3rm'C)~ cdsc-
Om'" front yoke 11114:. CUI off )·okn.. Close
• shoulder d(lrt~ Place'(ron I yok~ 10 b&c~
yoke :)1shoulder line. 'reee round pntem.
J 0)9.
-------
Bael.:~.lIdFrul1l Bodices Troia: bodied.
Cut off front strap, Square: dc.'Mu from bu."l
-------

It;r t'1~
dart; CUIup line. open appmx, ~cm.
r. Add "en) to centre b;,u;k t>odi«.
.f
WI Sklr, Traee rounl.l ~klrl block
Construct pleats (ref. -l pa~ 31'. :\dd

< ( - ••
:: )
2,'Cln il.,(~ 10side seam.
~I('('\C' Shirl sleeve (~(. 2 ~i¢.aS).
COUll' Shin ~)ll:lt (~f.9 pa~ 70,
6J' "\ Simi' lind Ikll COft,Inw;1 front "rr"p.
1-')(1111
dl)uhlo ,o'''''ll ,",'Id,h: join
belt, hul( It'nllh and t\~lee
;It "",1).1, COl'l(lfU(I
"Jdlh rrqu,t'(d
~~:o- ~1.ltk (old nne ;11 L"tnlf't.

H (, ~i\SV I'll flNOI)RLSS

'[race t~I"Ylining one-piece dr'O) bkKk Ind

K one-piece sleeve 10 rcqUIn.-d le:ngth

8(1dl~eS(~Ii(.II" CQmpkle ...da". ..tion for
dropped ~hOllld(,f wnh lowered antUC)'t'
(ref. 2S pogo 54)_
Draw in yoke! line on back and (ron t.
BlIc~ "nd Oack "(lkf: Di\'Kk b:K'k )'O"e
line intb ueee sections, squa~ dooA"'D from
each point.
Trace orr back )'oke:.Trntt off b.atk: ~ion.
cui up Ihho'" :111(1open ;tPPtO~. -'em: redr.l\\·
curve,
FrtHIII~.dlCt' 'rmc.'C' off (!'Oftl bodi«.
CUI iJlt)llS )'l)~ellne 10 bil~of bu.t.1 dan;
clC)$('bust dnn.
~1"rk 1)ll1lonhalf:.~: ~1I.fJbut,nn~l..nd
('()n~I"'CI cl.I...~ic roll coll~t (rtf tl p;.~c 72.,
Ur.,,,' III 'iu:in, line
uff )'Okeand (tOl1l bod~
TrII(.T1:
("OUllt J!:.tc:I"~ Jmee 00' (.l('en,
trcilil Sklr. Traee off (ront ".:In
SIC'c\(' Complete I.Idapuauon for dropped
5houldl'f ,,'ltb lowered iarmSC)'C.
l'tlt C()Il~tt\.tel ben. h:Jlr knil'" lind ,,,-joe
width requacd, Mark rotd line.
 117

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118
For 'dressln,tkf:"ja(tcls usea d~
7 block constructed from the etosc fillin,
or ~;tS)t filling bodjce blocks.

7 JACKET PLEATED PEPLUM

Trnee drelili bloc .. \\lth \\~I,.t).h<1pin& 10
Icngth requited. IlolIO'A centee ""(1:
"'Ilist I <:"1;drop front ",al)(bnc I em.
Draw in panel !l(an'~ and <'01I<1r.Clo~
bU)1dnrt, Ora\\ in neckline. Cut akJna
"'ai~1scum. panel. sid,. K;un~ ThiCC'
round Sl~'tion\and ectlar Sha~ $I!:tms;
mark buncnhcles and butlonstand •
.0 Cut facing as fronl.
.0 1)~I)luln Cut up centre or
sid~p3-neJs:
(1)(:') 2"n for flare, ..\dd 4an ,-cnl
.0
pleats to panel tines and San at centre
.0 back for inverted pleat. Trace round.
fold l)leats. cut out. Add C"xtmded
facing to centre front.

8 IIASIC rrrren JACKET

Trace drells block \\lthoul "';1I)t
shlll)ingto lenglh~ui~ Lewerback
"'IliSI 2.$(11). :;1'1"('11: in I an, Dnr- In
p.lnclliuc~ art shown. 1.11".1'\' tn 1'C'q,"red
"'I,i~t shapinJ on Ihc)t: linea ;and :I
small dne luld\\II) bcl14ttft stdc seam
lind I'ron' panel,
IJr:l\\' in f'O"kct lind ,,'tit from 'm;all
.0 8 d,II" to back rancllinc. TOKe' oR'
pocket welt and bag. CUI Up p;locls.
.0 I.Jnck Trace ro,lnd, shapr ~m,"
Side Panel Tra~ round. shape' sc:.;ams.
-O Extcnd side seam at top or pockd the
same measurements as ...Klth or d3.n .
.0 Cut along lin'('$,I and 2.
Frent Close bU51dan. trace round.
shape panel seam, nurt beucuholes,
add buucnstand. CUI (;leil'l, as fronto

o 9 JACK ET - FLARED PEPLUM

o 9 Trace dress bloc.:k"rithout "'.list
o shal)ina 101":l'Iglhrtquim! Dr.a\\'
o shaped peplum liee, Dm In dAns ''''-0
o ;11b.\ck lind ftOnl It" shown CUI up
o ,IoidcS(';\lU. ~nd :llona peplum line.
o I 'JI"ok 'I'FoIC:ero"nd. 5hJpc S(:01Im",dltttlL
I ,troll I Clo", bU)1 dan. 101", round.
o Shupe )leillru.. shorten darts, i\dd
M:.IUOI)l.,\1blltton:u:)nd. mark
buucnheles, TraCt: lelXll"aec (.K1n,.
I)cphnns Close dares ulon. waethne
lind open 0111hem 10 ,1\'( tYqUIned
amount or nare. Tr.a'X round pattern.
 119

7 Pleated peplum

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8 Basic fitted jacket

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.lackets and Coats
"" ... 1rTlOJ\CItET
OR COAT
1·,.-....'" ...,Lci lilac..
Of U'CTpnDnIt
J(j'I(ndu'l' pn fil ~r pnIIC'M m.tU1ftd
1 l)r,ln hlll~;l..tlh rT'duccd buq doIn
,,.In,I., !Jlltl 10 ,"entre "'_04,I1r.k,
nod,\'S,,",'llofl" Drop \cf1cl bn('t (rom
bllclllflil (rOIlII"I(4:h polnl~~tilrll. 2.
' • .a l"'Ick: ~. 6. 1 en (ronl. , 1\
illl
nlld\\'<lYI 1: ~U.lrca('r~ 109,} 10
.tnll (, II I , c m. 4 12 ud ., l.llc:m
I)'.I~ hdck seam tmes9, l. 12;9. 10."
1101\1, (ronl seam Imn S. 6. 11,5. '1,7
Or;s .... In ....~h
podd.
~f!lrL OOlloo.bo&ri. add battoosuad. for
doubk b~;;asttd{root ftc( 3 p;I!.'C' h.
LCJlAt't n((\ltn< ,lod"_' iD ~uamI
m~r sh.lpc.Comtruct staDd:ud coIbt
lind rever (fl:r 19 p.lIC (4) 00 ~
neckline. l)r.I\I, In (oA'1nsb.ne.
"11('1.: l'r-.lce on' ba~"
Sldt, I'alwl Iraee olY sede p;tnt'1
.'11111 rrllt.'e Ircru iC'('liOn~
rnn,(n I em
of bll)( d.ltl IU p~I)('11t1k {u~ a~('".JtC'I.
Ihe fCll1101l1ul,,rttl il d~rt In the" hCC'LIIft(
(ctll., .nd 1.C'l,. rnt« 0« """t1.v "nd
fa'I"$
~kY'C' T"\)-r~
I-M"n
'\Icr\<'''' ,:.al
orr f"Od;d -cit. doubW
Irlol'-"'C'
the \\klth, """l ("*I ........ C"tntt't'

2 ('I ,\S"C O\'~RCOAT

1',"(:(, U\crlll.lrmt"nt bkxl with rtduccd
bU~ldIuI (~,\.unrlcts h:al(dm SflCI If
eltlrll e.l,\( IJ rcquin:d tn bod~draft
lowered annscye (m_
2lp3gc $.11
1)11('1,;"'-;II:e orr bae" 5t'C(i;)ft. Add ~an
(or vern ~t«lUte back. Add 2aa ft.an.-
and potlet r..CU1p lD Sldc sealL
.'0111 T,.tASf('., bvsa ibn lD sdC' se;a;m
Dr.1....In \\clt (l«'tC1 If req.nd l.oan
{runt hemline- Iaa;. JOlD to s.ade so.-
\t ..,.. NlUooholn. ;add bultoasUftid
0, ••"" (,l... n,bile. ...w
o~ r...on,
1\\llll\:A\ R.tf'<'- • .IId poekd (.K'Inr I"" w.J(
2 '1(,1"1, 1)',1\\ pot1<-t biaJ. arM%" off'
SIC'C\,+Il~~t OM'PIC« \kc'I.c.. ({Imrkl~
lil\\(rcd ", 11"10:)<'-.f ~Ulrtd
('ollfl' {'on\lru~t\."On\(rtJbk roU .. r (t(1
I( 1':')14' 7(1.
Ih'lI ('un\tru\!t h<'-h. kn,lh " tt.alf ... 1"
'"(;I.u~nlt'tU 1'11.,,,, ~S('Jft and 1\\tee _t4tth
rftIlurtd ~tilrl;foki at «DIn.
S''''P'''.,MlI"«ln \\dt Otafi dflh
ftqUlmf lind '_Itt fold
.ldlh ~t;,t\.
 121

\ 1 Semi-fitted jacket or coat

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, II rn 0 J"I-ET
1,014.'('" olT ullorcd ~ h6od. 10

'r-. 3
knllh rf'qUIR"d I)a.. t.c.i; ... _1
linn..f(m ..rt. 'Uok W'Ut ~_j(ftll" ..rd.
holt" Sholpe .-;lISt ilInd ;;-.k 'tC'...... ,
)__I 'h~i"""
I>."hle IrQnt doIn Illto ...;aOt,X Inlo ,,,_')
dll,l\ Add I \"m "oan: 10 hC'mor b..!.l
,,1111('1~jllll Om* in pockct \t,r\
(Ii
bUll0nhok,. IIdd bullons'and,
':,-,I1"'UI,:I .. \1.tndAnJ noc(u ~I.l and
re\e, eft-I 11t p.lI( 7'&,
1'r-oICC orr .. II JC'(lJODJ. ~ bw.t dan,
~huptd.Jn! aad pMd $QJM. ~ll.tcl
olT It (ronl (;lIOO&-Add 11c. 10ceetre
t...;~ or ""'.,boc:l pad for _
In\n'ltd pkolL
SI«,c DaO. ~pca- sJcr\~

• IlrrEOCO\TISLIGHTL'
4 IIiGIl W"'ST)
'1"-.1<:0
fOlllld (l\(tpnnttll bIoc:L 10 the
k'l\Klh rt:lluin:d (The- 11I.1oRd JA4"a.C'1
hlll('- can be used for a C'I~ fil ,
~111rl.:I., \Ir.u,hl \\;al,thnc. ['Icnd In
fcquin."\I kn,lh 01"'..- ... pdd ~..nl"
"illll"" .n centre bK.. tQm I em I'
~..j'l and h<m Sb.lpt •• ppm). '~m
Al irtl1'll ••• \1 dati .act r-d cam"
I),." '" btll\h.a~
I or ~ h,:'\c1 d.ra- • 06c. un _,
IK.-,;LI,lW'(~t>r.: .. "It_ltnn,.
0-0 mil'" bulwnlwla. ¥Ad bullc>nw-nd
<:on\,r\Kl. roll c:oILu ....... iI bolkMt"I.l
0-0 nIX" (r.:r 16 POQ'C'11:•• ~'Ull bote..
~(1n,I')ru\\' In notcb. Trace (1fT >111
",'tli'lo~
llllt'&: Alid 16c-m tc eeetre bxt "kUl
(or an nweeted piaL ShJ:pt JUMI
warn. .,dd "em fL." t.o beaI.
I rotlt .1'Ie1:,-. rod Shape p;.:ad
SC.\n" ..dJ St.-m Ibn- at Item. Add
1: Scom ft;art •• (toile C'dJC Add pocbi
("'In,,~(n).' k_, C'1ot.e ~ ~r1
rf'.I"~ufT (root (.,0J..
~Iff'" I)DC. ,_\)o~ ~C' tl'*1<
1") (\In,trw..:, """'pcd cuff ''''''co tI6)
'(lIt' Iur ('oldJ<d ,hoo~ nil""
IIlhIUh,h". "Md .I«\C' hc;ad; I"f X
,,11M\) .. tt)

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'roee
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Ihe C!:;)~)'flllinp. bodlee ht(l(k. --- -- CD

- EJ
l'k' the-: I\\'O'P'«I." ~JC'\'\'C'block (pll....
2"~, fot;\n C3\.cr (II. Inodl!), Ihe ~Il'f,.,,'e
.and l.he :s.tur1IIrnlK)(' ednpnnlon C~t:
24 _,Sol)
ES
y
-- -
Stp;.nt(' front .)('(lion <rrllu"rct d;lrt h.,
underarm.
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E1tmd block LO Jength required.
\\~ftkn"«1: I,Scm, 1()\\'cr fl'(lnl fleck
l cm. Take.Jan off fronl shoulder; add
10 back shoulder. Roo,.1\" annscye,
Dr.t", in )ooke and ~lnt-Jlises, Oro!:"' in
waisa maping cu required or exnrnpte.
n
Shorten dan 10 side: panel tine. •
Sqntr dO'ilin (rom the cemre or (':Icl1 ~ "
d .. r1mg ililhe' Y,;lilol to heMIIi"e,
Add I em Rare 10 side seams urlt! Ii)
lhe p3neb where Indlc:ltcd.
front ,\dd bUllun~lal)d. ,nll,k
bullonhokt. and (:u:inl; lin,..
t.o-c, b(n\hne III frcru l rm.
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.and paclC't,. C"lo~ Jail on ~idi: '1I.)nl.
J!t;(k TnK'e )'C')kcand pall!!l,.
(".lb., .net "~.rililt Traee (lIT(lIcln~.
C'OUst.rut1. 1lI0011\ I."rliblr eollnr ~ref 8
~70'.
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 127

Part Two: Flat Cutting

9 EASY FITTING GARMENTS
(woven fabrics)

1beseIld:&pt,IUOn)art' ~11~)((t on nat (UIIIII~ \\'lIhool \1.\lf'I~bus, d.. n lh.!trtl\g Of

~Io~ lill.n. \1001,)1 '$
Job..lptn, Tht' I«hniquc UM:1'1I1for g;lt",~nb Ihlll art Ib,·
packed
The b:u:fIO block, ;It'C 1h't'd mOl.nl)' lor gi.4r"'tnl) of ("oJ)" tilllnf 'h:apc: in "",.;n
rabrk:$ as Ihc) hll'\'(. wbslAnllo11 amOU111of ease IIIChldl!d. Thc) arc. panJC:ua.rl)
useful for spcstswear- And wearbcrwcar cvcrgarrncnts,
Steeve Ia"d c:olb:rIIcbpll1littn> rrom I~fl One can be used. Some $ty~ C'l.lmp~
:11'(shQ\\ n 10 dC;tnOtlj,lt:llCIh(,lr applic:;alion •• \10$t (,.'(:Implc~shQ\\. lhe b.ad: .. tad
front sections (3C1ngtbe same way, This L'"used so thnt the ~mdlng pcmts ~nd
\'111lx- the seme. Flat cunin!;; t!n"l~~ the use of
inslruColiDn, 1'(" balh p:tllC1'ft-l-
lhC$CsImple snadins IcclIttiques.

EAS\' rrrnxc 1"ROLSER ASD $1< IH1' SIII\I'I>:.I:) ~C' lag

TilE Ei\SY FJTTIr-G TROUSER III.oCK 12$
EASE Ir- TilE o,\CK CRUTCI1 Ill<
Til E SI~tI'LE TROUSER BLOCK 1)1)
Till' SIMI'L"~KIRI IllOCK IJlI
I 'lIi\OGY' rKOUSI KS IJl
1 ()NI"I'I~CE TROlS~R~ 13l

I-:ASV FI rnvo HOO\ SII"I'ES I,.

"11 t UASIC SfllRT BLOCK I,.
THE UASIC 'FIAT OVEROARMENT I!LOCKS 136
T~I E 'FIAT KIMOr-O BLOCK 136
I JACKEl -INSET SLEEVE 133
1 TRENCH COAT -INSET SLEEVE IlJI
3 S\YIN(i Jl\CKETICO)\T - KI~.cn,-:O SLEE\'E 140
4 \VEA1'I-IER\\'EAR - KI4\tONO gLJ!EVI~ 140

SIZING
Spcnswear and some aru;tl "eat mnnuftlclUrtno u.sunUyuse swng bralrr:~ or
Sr>.IA LL. ~IEDIU,\t. LARGe lind XL ..\JtOE. '111eexample sillnp used In the
foll()win~ dr.lflll;In: Mkd on )u-c ~ic..1.• l'IiSh Slft;CI filfh/nll aurmcnl\. Set plgc:
12.
 textilestudycenter.com
128
Easy fitting Trouser lind Skirt Shapes
The Easy Fitting Trouser Block
J-or 'bam'· ffOUSC'f'$ :and dunS;:lrecs

MEASURI, \ltN1'S REQUIREI' TO DRAI-T ....1$ Ihe n't:I\~uNttIClu·1l3.

TIll 81 OCK DF.'I~111)jdcll:~:;Cllln.j()in14 1~.joln9 1$('ur\ln,
The blocl:.s (lIn be> drllJi ed It) ,Iz,,- l-ml~,8. 10. 12. '''. lbe line 1""III'tls O.7j\·ln.
etc. or SmJ. :>.1cd. Lg.I!'.XLgI'.
Example sb()\\'O i~for II eize Med.: refer to the $Uc 8..c:1o:
<-bnS t~C' 12) (1.)( s'Jlndllrd IIIt:asul"c.lnenl\ (or tllp $-16 quarter the Il1ell:l.utc.tnC'nlI S:.§QLW~up to 11
Strt:dj.uiJlfJR garments. on the' hipline. IS on the waistline,
16-19 h~lt(the measurement 1~18.
.....Ut 70em body ri.s(o 18-.20 2(.'m~
b'l" 94('m to Ooor-
\\':1iS1 10-1.1 zcm,
....
~ lohip M.6cm trouser bottom 11-21 quarter \\':list plu.s6cm:join 21-~ to tooth
\vicJlh (page 11) thl: hoozontnllinc feom O.
9-2:3 11:llfthe meusurentent S 9.
Ftoft" 23-24 0.251:'111,
SqU.lft' both from O.
\'oJ>\ JoIn ll-19:join 11J...24 wnh u ccrve IOQ(hln, a POIOl
0-1 bod)lli)(: ph.!! I etn: toqlll1rt "c.'J\)~~ "j/C'1I ~ '4 or SIUI. ~Ic:d ".S4'm (rom 16
0-1 \'Ill"t 10 hip; square ncross, ~7~S 16-14 or l.ge, XLge. 4_1Sc:m rrom 16
0..3 "21M to nour In('I'li"urcnuHU:~U;lr( llo('l"O"-\' 11-25 qUilrlcf' hil' 'nC;ISun:IUCnl plu~ 2cm
1-1 balf the mclt(UrCfflt'U I ) rninus $CI": \qu.;tt'C' 12-26 I em.
><-, 1J-17 1em
14 une ' ....'Clnhhi," I'Ilc:tSUI,,=nlt'IU phis I 8\"m~~u ..tt Dn1'" In ...Ide kt"n; 22 ~~ curve out".lrd~ ~11.th11)'.
up 10 6 apd 1 25 21 curve Inwltrds ,loll"hll),.
Join 21 26.
64J quarter hip "'(,.,,,'.(ltlcnl phi' I (In t4-1A I CIIl.
S-9 onco .i,lttlllh hip rncueurumem plll.J I an. 15-29 I em.
1-10 lem Il,.""" [ujildc 'l.1g Sciun: juin 28~19: J010 29 14 cun'WI
joIn 10 , ~Ind6 9 \\'jjh a curve !iJI,lc:hil'I a poln!; the line in" :Ird~ I(III.
iIlU 8 14 or Sml. Med. 3.5.:n1 from ~
sUo. 16-2~or Lgc, XLge. j.7SC1U (rom S EAse IN T~IE HACK CRUTCII
ID-II qearter \\-:lls, plus Stln. ~tOSI
('!I.(Y jillin& trousers, panicl.lt:trly dUrl~
3-12 half neuser bouom \~'idlh Ininu) O.5an~jolD require extra C:JM:in Ihe back c:rutch hOC'.
8-11. ~I;ut;. point 13on knee line, Tnt()c 00" back 1r(1I.15CN of requlred block.
Dr.rw in sidt seacu join $-11 with a slight eerse, JouI CUI alons 111ehipline and open :1 ",'-edge :tppro.L
S I! lind 1312. 3.Sem "ide at back crutch line.
l-I.J h;alf trouser bouom \\'tdlh I"inuj O.San. ked"I\\· bac," .:rulch tine .L" ~hown
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130
The Simple Trouser Block

MEASURI,\lLl\l'S RI<QUIR!;1l I'() PRAtT ~7.("S 8 I" or Sml, ~I(d 2.7St'm (rom.a
lll~ 8LOCK ;.i/Cto Il, 24 (II' LAte.XL,Co Jem (rom"
n.c bit""'" c~n be dl'llfil"t1to (hOecodc' 8.10. 12.1.&, 1...9 hr.lr hillh :ulklc nl('.I~urcmcnt plus 6",,",
etC' Sm1. ~tl'<l, 1,,;..; XLgc
(M" J...IU Ihr« qunrlcrs Ih~ rnca,urc""(ftt 1 ,"' plQ):
laamplt Ioho\\n iJ lor II ~jz(' ~,t('tJ.~
«fer to tM Mit O,)c:m.
~ar'l~ (page 12, (or staadnrd IIlC':L~\Jrcmcnt.s (or .IJ,h Dr.I\\' inside leg.lK'l.tln:JOin? 10 ",th " ,.r.aIPl 11M.
SlrC't1/"JiIOlI c.,rmcl'ltll. JOin t 10 c-un·1111!the hue in\\ :Itd\ I em

lbck
hips C).ac:rn s.-Il 3.S!! nt.
bod)nsc 2SCrll 11-12 3.Sc;mjoiI'l12·0.
"'~tofloor I04cm -'-13 half the meesurement 4--S.
bigh a:nklt: 21cm 8-14 tbe measurement .t-8 plus O.Scm..
......15 I ern.
)Pin 12-13 and 13-15 wuh it curve louo:hlng a peunl:
Front S'l2eS N-I.t or Srnl, ~Ied. Scm (rom"
SqU3ft' dO'll.n and l'Itm.(s f(,()11I 0, .QJlCS 16-2.&or tSe-. XI.sc- S.Scm (rum"
0-1 bod)' nse ph"': I ell);llqlHI~ncress, 9-16 2cnl,
0-1 ,,-;Jist 10 noor: squun: across, 16-17 Jcm.
1-3 balf ,be measurcm('lu I 1: ..qUlin: ~et"(lSS, Or..",· I"lidt leg $C;II":Join 16 17 .."ilh " "Iralfh, line.
1-1 qU.. rter hip nl('tI'UI'(,nl:tll phi' 4cm: ~U.lr'C' up ),l)ln I~ 17 eurv in» the line In\\"rdi 'em
toS.
s-6 lem. Cn"lllulC 11()ItC'.ll,C'l't ""II"'"
.&...7 qu.au('r the IU(,II!lu(..:n)cnl '" S. Tr.,~ 10UII(IbIll:"~\!tll)n ~h~.~...)' ,,~)
.a...s one ,,"1111(1' thQ nll!lI\\lrt:nlcnt I .a '"lnu1 U.Scm TrulX round (rolll section (doll4.'d hnej
Jorn 6-7 .nd 7 8 \\'illl tI carve 10ll(hl1l& Ia pomt: 'iltror 'hc frol\! 11111.1
1,lllct Ihe: -'jade: ~.ImJIOSClhtt

The Simple Skirt Block

The block hils meee ease ~h"n lile oosi..: <kit' b1oc:l. 11 0-5 "·.{I~I11It'a$tll'Cl'nc:nl plus "em: ,qu.lrt' up I.!Sem
can be used for ):~irl$wuh c:1;'lSII¢IIICd"~i'{lband.s. to 6. Joil\ 6 3.
\\fbcn mcd (or tnpster skirts, shnpe the side scam in Curve the .hipline (lUI O.2.scm.
further to fit a 10\\' waist meesurement, Jojn 0-6 \\'1111 it curve.

F,oot Ibc;k
Square d(l'fo'n Irom O. 3-1 1C'm~square down 10 8.
dei" len~lh required: Mlul'lf'Cout.
Q...t 0-9 ~'bl,~1nl(,U~UI'l:melllplu~ 6.Scm: 'iqU,3f('ur
0-1 \1t,41»110 hrp measurement: square OUI I 2Scm 10 10, Join 1 10.
~3 qUilncr hlp mcn",IN:lnl.lnl plus c).Sent;: iiquan: Cunc the hipline (lUI U.l.s~'ln.
d~rt.'o" JQin 0 10 w ilh u curve,
 131
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132
I '!IAGOY'T~OUSI'.RS
Trace ofT tbe back lind fr-\)nt I)f rbe t';I~)fil1in.
trou~r block.
Shftr1tn 10 the requlred 1I,'!n~1I',
If '\"1")' !)up») U'CUIi(C"" ure '''''<IUin:d.('UI ur the «ntre
line ... nd open r'e.,utr~'tIllnlounl
.....
1'O1l1 I)m\\ in $WC; p.lllel litle.
\1I1I'k (lOin,; 0 I on Ih" In~kl(' leI SC'<tm
1'>.11:11(1the IIl1e troll I I.
4)...2 I~ one thll'd di'lUIIIC.X'0-1: :lqu:.re d~n 10 J
+-S • 1-3: lIqutlre up 10 (I.
Draw 111the r,.ckel bas Irem rhe Jude:p;lml hac.
Or.l"" In Ihe fmnl !>O'k~l..
Dr.:I\Io·in the side pocket: nlurk po,nlS 1 lind 8_
Trace off front !lnd skte (ront.
6¥c~ 9-IQ4nd II J2~lretbemc»un:mcn' 1-3:
square lip to the iniildelegseam andJlck~.
Draw LOtbe side panel line. width ~ 1M meuumnenl
7.s 011Ihe side: !,,<,ckc:t.Mark side poel:CL.
Tra.I:c 00- ~ck nnd ,~idl:'biu:".
l'oct"ls Trace 00' pocket Ixtg. (ront pocUt and side
pocket,
\\':,i ...'bllnd t;On~ltut'l
II ":II'lb,.lnd~ ~a'u~mrnl or
1M Yo';lisllin{'of the ptltterns created lind •• nee Iht'
v.J(Jlh tcqull'<!d. ~i"fk fcJl~ line do",n ""In:

! ON!;·I'II cr 1'ROUS~KS
Tt~ (10~the \'cry t:!I~YI1l1ln, r(OU'!oC'r
btOtL
n.~l:.nd l~r(1I1t Sht1rlcn 10 the ~Ulmt ~n'lh_
Squal'C dU"'1\ from () al Iltl: c"Cnlrt fron' '0 1
SqUIJI'\' eeress 102. Square up to l.lau .bo\c
v.1IIMbnc,
EXIt-nd Iho bO!ck\\'uhalil\¢ to ).
Cu....::st:iDraw II \'~rliclll bne, kn,gth IIUem.
~i rk point" "~Ithe ccentre: square OUl.
..
+-5 ~ppro,;,24c.'m.
Om\!' a line 8tnl lon,g. p:lr.tl!cl lO (be:: top 0( the
verucal fine.
Dnlv.':' line f leu Ion!:,pamuel to the bottom o( the
\'C1'1itolllir'lc.
5-6 III the nleit~un:nl(nl 0 I; ~1UiU't"0ICRt$'S.
5-7 is the measuremem 2-3; square eercss,
""h,Ib:lnd COn:f.IOICI(I w;ai'fOlb;tnd'IS 1Ibo\-e
 133

1 Baggy Trousers , 2 One-piece trousers

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134
Eusy Filling Body Shapes
The Basic Shirl Block

MI:,\SUR."lI,Nl'S RIiQUIRIiIl TO DRAIT "1~ J 1)

the 1I11;JSUI'Cnlt11t n'lInU$ 0 lcm: sqWlrc up
lll~ SLOCK to 26,
~ blc~L) c:.n be llraOed te) size cWe, 8.10, 12. 1.&, 1.~17 h:.lr the n1e';l,lIl'(fficnl I J 25: :tqWlrc d""n 10
cIC.~or Sml, ~1C'd,Li;e. XLi"" 28 .nd 29. Draw Ilnn~)'e 11l11lbo\\ n 1,1'1 ua;qnun.
E:tampk )ohO\\1)is for Il !lile 1\lcll: reler to (he:.sue touching pouu$ 16. I~. 27.26.23; and 10 IOucb point;
C"h;.ttJ (~pc J 2) ror Sli1l1d:.rdIl1t:bUr(m~nts (or Hllh 1.1Scm troln 131lnd J,'2Sc:m (rom 25.
S'tc'dJUMIIWf Sl.ro\c.nL'l. 21-30 l..scln bUU(,u1sltlnd~cqu..~ dO'AD..
30-31 1.Scm f!lcing: square down. Shape n«lr.:JitK,
1m.. 88cm neck SIze 37an 12-31 Jcm (b.'lek r!cat): square down.
eape 10 U,Oltsl 4J crm steeve Jeoglh SS""
:umscyc <kplh llcm tulT ~17..e- shir1s 21.3cm Sttt-,'t
back wid1h 34,4cm (I"'gc II) Square down from 0,
0-1 one qll,lrlcr :lrl'u«<:yc:mc:ssut(l:J\Cnt (SC'C'
6odySmio~ mc';t)."Unllg;1 curve on POIgt" 25); $qP,1;lR ilCfO:>S,
SqU3t'C up and dO'Yo'Rfronl 0: square tic-ross epprex. 0-1 sieeve length nlinus cuff deplh pJu~2cm GUC:
10em. $qu"r'C aeress,
C)..t ~rm..qetleplhplll~2.~cln:lI(IUltfC
"'roi\- 1-,) half 'he m~'n~lIr\'n'cnt I 2: \(fU;lr'C 1lCh)1,.-""
0-1 nt'tt 10 wai ..l; square IIcrU:i$. C)....4hult armscye measurement: square do"..n co S.
0..3 (hin lC'nalh Icqulred; ~U"I'( 11C-ro~'. 01 half :tf01"'yO nll:.I~Ur(ml:nt. ~u.al't"do-n 10 1
1-1 balf ec« pili" 'J.Sefll: square up. _,qu;aR'do'" n 10 DI\ide 0 01illlO It1Ut .secllon~ Inarl polnl( S. 9. 10
S. I»)\'ide (J 6 intn lour 'IC..:tia,,~In:ark point" II. 11.
Q..6 J.Scm: ..q\llife aCross 101. I)
&4 one fifih neck ~Il(!plu~ 0.2en,; 'quare dOVon10 g...o ml~ IC:I" ",9:
the C:UI'\'<:: 1.75tm Ilt '0.
y Raj)C'.tht (.un( I'll II. I en.
0-10 one Ih.rd rncasurcmeur 0 9: dru....•(un~ rrom ItoU(7\\' 1he curve (11I): I em.
11-10. 5-1<4 one quarter Ihe mecsureeaem Z 5 nunu.
6-11 one firth .Ifn~<ocy(depth Inil\ll$ 0.5c",: lIqU,Ire O.S.:m: join 4 14,
cat, 7-15 one qUllrtcr (be measurement 2 7 mJnUJ
~11 one fifth ihe measurement O-i plus Iem: O.Scm:joiIl6-IS.
1q1l:tn: h!ltr "1Iy aeecss the: block. ~1arl: J)Qlnl~ 16 lind 1'1 on the hue (rom 3•
1-13 blf back "'idlh plus 2•.scm; sqU11I'Cup 10 1"- t.'-18 I cm:join 16-1S Yo [th ;a eurve
on<! IS. 1.5-19 Icm:joln 11-19 wnh a curve,
1.5-16 1.2Scm; join 8-16. 20 midway 2-IS; squllre up (0 21.
1"-17 balf the meaSUft::nlcnt 12 14 l!linus. t.see. 21-22 one tbird Ihe n)e.ISUrtlnl:ntlO 21.
l.a.-IS O,Sc;m;)(lJn 11 18 whh it curve %:0....23 O.75cl1l;joln 19....2with a I:U,",~
7-19 Scm:square across,
1,...10 one finh netk size nlh)u$ 0.6('11) Cuff
19.-21 OAe finh neck >ile' nlil1u\ 1.6(111 ("on.)iru~ )hllpcd cuO': lc:n,lh -= C"ufr""IC ph.!) lC'm.

..,
~ 8«"k cun~from 20 21.
19-22 one t1nh ;Ifnl~)'e cleflill plu\ O.5 e-m. sqU<Att

lG-.lJ ,be n'C'III~lIlenu:nl l:oi I fl. l)fI"\'.1 lme (rom 20

leJ touch the hne fr('uu 22.
cuff d~pth II! upprox. f cm. "1arl. bullOnhok.
Dnlv. c:un('!! ~Itlo\\'(tt ,,"t.I$~•

con.r
COA)ttUC1 It (hlft coll.lt (rtf. 9 P,llc iO)
21-,t.I half the ml.'ttllutcllhlti\ '" :11 plu~ I tin: "IWlR' I)(plh of ,hirt <:ollar nnd ~t.lnd Ilppm, SC!M
.....,..
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136
The Busic 'Flal' Overgarment Blocks
For CBS}filtin,pckcls and a\~rg_~lrn1('nl'i

MEASURI,\lLl\l'S RI<QUIRt;1l I'() PRAtT OD\IoIn Ihl! (rQllt annllC)'C"ha~~" sha.:n In d145fil1m
lll~ 8LOCK to ,ouch point" 18. 17. ~.
n.c bit""'" c~n be dl'llfil"t1to (hOecodc' 8.10. 12.1.&,
etC' (M" Sm1. ~tl'<l,1,,;..; XLgc s......
laamplc Ioho\\niJ lor II ~jz(' ~,t('tJ.~
«fer to tM Mit 0..1 hllir Iht' Mtjt);uttl11cnl 6 1on bod) l*KL plus
~ar'l~ (page 12, (Ot staadnrd IIlC':L~\Jrcmcnt.sfer .IJ,h Iem. sqUJU\' across,
Slt«1 ftlt./ilf'lt ",.rmel'llll. 0,..2 ~\(' lenglh pili" Iern: :f,(lu.t~M"nN.o
The to;U" fI,gurc:seousucet the Jlu;)(:1 block. the W theInelJ:lurc'Ucnl of ttlll: lIrmk')c CUf'\(' (rom
figurn 10 bmckets the overgarment block. 15.. 8.
2...... 1\\'I)·lhirds the. measuremeer 1 3 plll') O.S-cm:
bu" 8Scm sJlould<:f Il.Jcm jClln l-I.
Q;lPC: to •• ist -'Iem buck width ~ •.Jcm Oi\ide 0-3 into six sections: mark. points S. 6. 1. S. 9.
""'ai$t 10 hip 20.(icm armscye deplh llcm 01"3\'1in the back.sleeve head:
a«kuu: }ian «tee....(' l~ng'h ;Scm ho1l~' the (UNe O.)cm :.t 5:
raise the: CUI'\'C' 1.5clll at 8 uud 9.
Sa,," .00. Frobt~riOClS Ora",' lu the (ront steeve bead:
Squ~rc d~ n and eeross {(,(UII O. bcncw Ihl."cun"C: O.7$cm 111$:
0-1 txu;k n<xl to \\'Ililil plu} Jcnu square ;lCrQ),." rollll('use curve 1.1Stlll tlt 8 and 9.
1-1 .... is'! 10 hlpc fqUt'lr"Cacross,
0-3 qUIner bU~1mcasurenlcnl plus 4.5cm Clcm~ S","t' .'itt,b I·olllt..;
,.qu.J~d~'n 10 .a and S. '\.om", ,ltc:\~IId"l'tlltiOII'i require pit<i:h potnl, on 'he
()..6 lan. '(Iec\'(, 1tnd body ~l,(ljQU~
6-7 *rmlC)'C depth plu~ 4cm (6en1):MatU"" IICross10 ~t"r1: pc')inl Ii on Ihc sleeve .." II pllI:b polnl "IIh ..
•
6--9 hJlr .he me ...sI.lIC:IIlC:IU6 1: )Iqul,lr.: \)1.11
1be rneasuremem 6--9 minus U.25..m:
..... 0 f.lloLoilnc.r
nalch ~1e'I),lIkthe sleeve curve (rum 1 6
~tC'3r.U"" Iliolljllhc nrlnsc)c o( ItIe bcMJ) ')c(1K'm
same di\lanCC, Murk die; plh!h p(nnl..) "'Ib .. nOlth •
...,he;

JqIU;~ cut.
0-11 one: fifth n« .. ,.I_i'~ J'llu~0.4'0' (O.7('m).dr.....
~l n«1: curve, The 'Flat' Kimono Block
1-12 hal( across back plus Scm (4.jrnl); squ:afC:up
1013,,,d I... Rod~'St'(lions
......'5 I.Sen':jcun 11 15. 'T'r3c:c- !'<'lundOO;iJCb~tl,';kbcJ.c.ly
stUIPC of }oIcktt. or
~. in b3d arm.sc..")"C shape 10 touch points IS. 13. o\crganncnl blocks with the front ntt:klinc and
S. ~nnscy(' dc_plhline n'nrkcd.
~i"rI:poinls U. 1. 2. 3. J. S.
Frool S«lion ~ I.Scm. Join 1-6: extend the line
~16 one: fiflh neck slae ptus O,.acm (O,7cmk a,.... in 6-1 the sleeve Icng.lh.
1M (toni n«l. curve, Squ.:src out fmnl Ihl.1linc 2 7 th~ mc:.t$lJrcmtnl 2---4on
1)-11 O.7Scm(I ern). lhe block slt'(:ve used plu$1cm. ~1ark po,nlB
Dtwv.' a bnc O.15cm below Ihe line squ~rtd QUt (rom "-9 quaner the ml';t$urC:Jncnt0 I
10. 9.10 21.""':$(11l.1~dc~\\'n10 II, Jofft 10-8.
II-IS ,he'me.-::"un:nlc,UII 15; dm\\ (mnt ,houlde'r
IJn(' to louc.-:hIhe new IInc al pnilu 18.
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138
I J,\CK ar INSETSLEEVE
Tr~ afT the back, fft)11I 1!1,d l'1C'C'\1;
of.he 'tb\·Qi),
filUn! jacker block.
Rae!.: #tld .:""11 Shun en IQ th(' t't'qutrcd knSlh.
0,..,,,, in \'Cflit'llllinc:t ilt the side ",",nel ~tlO"S.
IJac.-k Stilipc' in Ille ~"(nln: h.1ck seam l('m .:andlem('r
thr "~:d'i pC>lIition 2,,-01
Shil('ll: 11'11\1 lilt' ",.II~( (II' the back p,lncl lane lO'ft.
Trxc 00" tht bll~·k.
front .nd Fr.1l11 Vokt Sh ..pe In the "ilUl or
tbC'(ronl
panel hnC' 2ellll square down to the hlrl:tac.
Dm ..' in Ihe (rQnl )'Ok~tine.
Drill'" In tbe bUlt(lI,~ullld.mllr. butlQnhole:s;: milrt tbe
ny hoe.
On'''' in the (!leine, Hnc, Oray,· In the: pockC'1 bag..
Trace off lhe front {Inti frol'll yoke.
Sik P:lD(' TrJC't'ojl' rronl.s.idc paml and reverse abC'
section.
Tt'dCCoff Ixlck side panel and join to I~ fronl ~nd
:ll the ,ide: seam.
·•• S~l-'S Reverse (ront sleeve alon,!;.the
\10,11:('lbcM' hnt hl'U\\';\), dO'4'n the uftdfnrm
crnlR line,
~m
·
• 1)1";:1.'~ h;,ck
~r3mlc
Kltnl 11111:.
the skoevts. Shape both sl('C'\~ I em QUI at
clbo\\' lind I em III !II Ihe hClIt
"."ifl1,t 1I1M1Fly I"h"\'(! 'I"rnccolf rllclnl- Ttu« off 8)
PJI."eX .,Iolllt the Ry fine: I'(\(h( the pIt'« :&~n. thot
(old line.
Collar COfllltr-UCt cOI\\'crtlbk (olbr C"" 3 ~ltC' ft)).
l'OC'Lc' 1I1It:. trace aO' "1K'~e, b.ll,

2 ilt~NCH COAT-INS~rSLJ±VE
TI"'J(:JC
olr the baek. front :l1\~ "Jec\'( of ,hi( "tJ.lI·
O\'('rprmcnl block.
S.d; a.nd l~r01lC Lengthen 10 tbe ~uu''C'd kugtb.
~\dd ;lern nare 10 $idc seam hem,
Dr.I\Ioin back .!lld (ronl nap,..
Bar,., Add S"'Jn pleat extension, Conslntd IOcol
pleat (.,aas- TOtl'C on' \lack- nap'
Front ,-,""cr front neck I em.
0(;:1"" In bl.lllonlin(:~ add bUllon.)liAnd and f('\C'f. m ..rk
bencnhcles. Drew in (:lcinS tine,
Trace oIT from Ollp.
Dr...· in pi'ltkel lind puckcl n"",
Sk<"'Il"S Construct D$ llbe1\(' cXllmpk. Dr:.:rw In sleeve
).ttap 3.S~·I))."!'r'llce on' ).I'"P
... ,,1"1:IIl1dCt)II~f 'I'nl~ ulT 1:1\:1n,
~1C!1,urt (I(c); 'n (\In,IC (ronl. Ccn:tltu.:a a Shift coJll4r
\\,thoul button~~Itn~i()n (n:r. 9 P:alc 7Oj.
COn\lrUel II ,un.11Ieoltar lab Ihe \\idlh 0( colbrs&and
I)MLtC, rrll~'" (l0' 1'(K'k(,1;Intl poc:k(1 n:.ll'
Shouldt'r Slnll' ConStruCt .)houtdC'1'"r ..r. ko,th or
shoulder lind twice the width n.-qUJrni.
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140
J SWINOJ,\CKIIT/COAT KIMONO SLEEVE
Trace oil 'he back lind frunt I)f rbe rt'qUIY'td ~tI"3t'
kimono blO('Ir:.
Rlat''' _tid ':ro.u I;XI4!nd10 the n"'qulI'~d1tft~lb,
~tllrt; !'<lint 11.'I11h~'Indl.:1'u r...,. I Z Scm; I .)Scm;
JOIn 1 J wuh II ('ur\,< I)rll~ In rnslan se..m~
\1",i: -1 one lhlrt.ll~nalb or rn"l;&o ~m. Jotn " "".
Cunt the: ~lce\'C: .k.lln,
I)m" In \Itlt' 1',lnel1inc.,.. l)i",ItJe NICk tnlO IhtU
SCltIIC.1I1!1.rf('"C IUlt.l side pi1ntl~ IDIU ,\\'O~,.
I)",,,,, In the-buucnstaud, huuunbo&o and fileD,.
otr bll~'k
O.. C'k Tt'UC:1! section. Cut up IhC' di\"klln,
boC'" IIJ)d open 111the hell\ the n:qulred amount.
,....ronl TrdCCon' front scctlcn, Cut up tbe di,-.din&
tine and open al tile hem the reqetred o.mOIlOL
Draw to pocket \\'<:11llluJ pocket ~.
8::u.k _nd .~ronl Side l,t:1nc:ts- CUI up Ihe dividing nne
md epee at the: hem the required :amounL
S~'(' Truce off $I¢C'\'~ R,cv(Ne fronl 5kc;:\-.;:
aed
JOin on the: centre line, CUI illong. lhe: Imn: )-4 ;and
epen :tpprox, -tcm. Redraw the sleevecurves,
0,.,,,, lo\\'tr sleeve line. Traee olT lo"'tf :dee\c.
("oU;1lrlind F"cll1):: True.: r.Ie'ln;. ('Oft!Iruc1 fhapc'd
converuble ccllnr v..ithcut stand (rer 8 page 10),
110C"l.cl),Trill.O(ufl' \10'1:11IUld pocket bot$.
4 \\IEA 1111!tt\\'EAM KI:OI()~O SLtF\'1
:otll")' \.Irlillion~ Or Ihi" $1)'lc('lin be tlpphtd
\\.:.tthcr\\"('."I~u~unlly(ull)' ~I( linN;
Tr.t('(' fliT rue hllCk, l'r~111lInd il«'o't or the (':;I})' fitlU'1
'0.,' kimono hlo~k.
Altached hood ollly: lewer bac!!. oa:k O.Scm: _ickD
b:lcl: :tnd rf()UI nt(:k I ern: tower rront n«L I em
s..ck ItQdFront Draw in IITnliC}(' sbilpe (rom .pproA.
Scm past sh('lukierl)()int J on the onllu=..J bIoc:k..
Take I em dnns from sjeeve~1I0ns:1\\0 .blnls k:nSth
of back armscye, hair the length or fmnt OltmSC')'c"
~12ri; pcmt I ttl the underarm. 1-2 Scm: 1-3 lOan,
Join 1-3.
8.xck Draw in b~.ckyoke linl:,Tn:u:coff )ol:c.
Fro"' S«tlclIl~ Il¢\·('~ rront Or.." III (ronl yoke
and 10\\"Trpanel line, Druw in pocL~t I\:tps ud pod~t
b;z~,Or.'!,\, in 1'Ioc)(:t:Cl ?jl) bee, Orll'A' In 1M 0) "'CCC
:lppml. 2.!icnl (':s~h 'Iide of eemre 11I'ltr
Tr.tL"C'(Iii the 11In.'(:freut p:tn('l~ Reduce lbt' fronl edge
or 'he: r_lIltlli b)' lhe \!,lid!h or 1M 11r-
Skt-\'O Tfil~ oW ~lcc\'C1r.JOIIIon thc «nl~ liM
CUI alOII!; the lil1~:;2 ) tHut fI~n IIPpro:\ )ern
ReeJl1l\\' IJI."t\"'('h~j,d lind undcrlltm \\llb "'\I"'~
Dr_,.' III buck se.nn Hne. Tnlt.'Coil' b;a.,,'t ~c.
"1~ 1'1(\('\'Jilld ZII' I~XI(II..I(lfl 'I ";1« an It) PM"«lions
lhe 0) hue. Ttace 01T LIp P'l"CCfrom the eeeue hnc.
Rc\e~ IXlIhpleces atcng the raid lmes,
1'Ml.ccs ., rllt'( ..,0' pocket b<I,I$IlInd p«Let O;)pt..
I-tOOlS Con"lnu;'1 hood (ref. 5: page 149,
 1-' 1
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kimono sleeve

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4 Weatherwear -
kimono sleeve
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Part Two: Flat Cutting

10 EASY FITTING GARMENTS
(jersey and knitted fabrics)

EASY 1'II"nNC BLOCKS ~OR Jf:HSEI' WEAR _I ••

TEE SI·IIRT.TRACK SUIT liND JERSI,V UI.OCKS I....
R_;\(iL.i\N ADAP'rATION I••
I TRACK SUIT TOV - INSET SLEEVE 1.6
l FLEECE JACKET RAGLAN SLI,EVE IJ6
l TRACKSUIT TROUSERS 1.8

HOODS 1.9
4 SIMPLE 11000 1'9
S GUSSETED HOOD 1.9

KNI1WEAR "LOCKS 1$0

TtlE IlASICGRID 150
I UASIC SIIOU LOER 150
1 EXl END~I) SIlO~LOlR IS2
J I(AOLA)" SL~EVL 152
COMI'U'r~RS A!';O Kr-ITThl) GARM~NT SIIAPES 154

SIZING
Spo't~'Vo~arlIud ~ ~u~J wear Jnanu(lIclurers U.!oUlilly use sUing braks of
Sr-.-IJ\LL.~IEOIU~t. L\ROE ~nd XI_I\R(iE. The e.1llmptc.' ~wn" ~ 1ft
lilt l'ollov,lngdn..fi$ are based on eee ~4cd.. J'lIgb SUlXtjumifHtl;trmctlu.. See
p;tgc. 12.
 textilestudycenter.com
144
Easy Fitting Blocks for Jersey \Vcar
Illnc:l:s(or T~ Sbin~ Track Suits and Jersey J:ICktIS

MI:,\SUR."lI,Nl'S RIiQUIRIiIl TO DRAIT SW\('

lll~ SLOCK SqUlIl'\' dewn (((lill 15.
The blc~L, rnh be tlruOed to ~i'l,cI-we, 8.10, 12. 1.&,
cle'..or Sml. ~icd.l.~c.Xlgl.' ......,~
1!t-16 h:.l( Ihe measurement 0 :\ plu\ Iem. M4u,,-,_rr

E:,ampk )'ho\\1)i!i for II size Mcll: reler to (he:.sue lS-11 skc\c kngtl' (jeney) plus 2(111(Scm): ",Wife'
C"h;.ttJ (~pc J 2) (or Sli1l1d:.rdIl1t:bUr(m~nts(or Hllh seress,
S'tc'd/whl(Nf ... mt....
nL"- 1S-18 tbe me..euremeru elf rhe d.:ag<)tlal bnc from
The main fi~ure$eonstruct 'he Tee Shirl Block. tbe 11-12 on body section plus 2cm! square <10-'11 to 19.
6_gu.~ in brackets the TrQcl>Suit (It f"1ictu ,beket 18-10 cne third Ihe measurement 1$-15:.
8I0<Il, Om"" in sleeve head.
18-20 hollow llle curve O.6cm.
bun 8S<m shoulder l2..1c:m 2O-L'" rouse the curve 1.750-'''.
D..pc: to "';allil 41 1;11' b;.n:1{ width ).a"",,em 19....z1 one third the "'C~I$UI'C'mcnt 11 19:joita 18 21
~....i):t to hip lO.6c"1 urmscye df:plh 21 em
ll«'k siu J7cnl Sbort SW\l'
...... e ... S'h 52cm 1s..21 $I«\'C lel'&lh ~llUII·C',t'\Quu«' :.etOSS10 ll.
(J<O<)') l.t..U l,~c:m:
)l~hl IS 24

Rod) Sffiioth I\AO ~,\ N AI)/\I'1',\ TION

Squ.;t~ do'" n ""d .1C-O)"iI ffOl1i O. TntCIt' (lIT hJcx:... I'cqllirc:d.
0-1 n«k 10 \\:11111;
S4.IUllrcIlcril~j. '111ft: I",it",. 1,1),12.18.2(1
u...1 (inbJit'\l knatb: )I(IIiArenero«.
0-3 arm),C)'c: 4k)Jlh plu~ I ern (4,$cnll; lIquoare~-ro~'I.. Dod,. SCC!tluos
O-t h~l( 1hem(',J(u!'CnlCn! IJ ~: li<IIlIII': ',eN». EXltt!:' thC curve ,',onl I) 12.
0-$ one: qU.llnCI' the measurement 0--4: square 12-15 Ihl:' measurement II!t-~Oun skc'''C': CUf\C lhe

...-""'"
(),..6 (KIefinh n~k -Jzc (plu~I cln): ~'Iuare up,
UncI> 1I1\\.lrd$ 0,75,,'1))
7-26 3cln:join 25 ·26.
6-7 l ctn: dril....
' in nl'tk curve. Cut 11\\'1)' :!Ihildc:ds«tlon.s.
3-8 ball' back wadth plus t).SClll t3~Scnl): square up
10 9-and 10. Sk-M't'
to-II O.5ro1(I.5Cln): join 1-11. Trace sleeve ,Ili r'llI sectlen,
~Il one qU3rt('r bust plus 2CLU(4jcm): square E.,,'cod the centre lint:of steeve,
doK'D 10 13. Drew par.aUcllines each side of 1Meeetee bne; the
Dr.I,,' in ~rm$C)'C' (U"'I: (1'01n II throllgh 9 co 12. rae...'uN:ment of (I~lthlitle from the: «nttll: line is. Jem,
0-1.. one fiflh neck :;L7.CInIlIU~ I.Stm (O.Srnt);dr;)\\ W-17 the measurement 25 26 on lh~ b;sd;
in (ron, DCC'L. 10-18 rbe measuremem 2S-16 on the (root.
&cl: ~nd (ro.1'11are the $:lnlC eXCCI)1 (0' Itte nccl: JClln 27 28 ",jib (I curve,
cunc.
 145
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 textilestudycenter.com
146
I TR/'CK SUIT TOI' -INSET SLEEVE
Trece ofT the tt'!lcl>: $Uil blotlo..
8:1('10;lind I,'rolll Shorten co the- maultro Icneth.
ShC'Jl1cn 11,t;IIjll b)' rlh depth 1nt"'oIJUf¢ment.
\\ilden the: neckline Ic:n\ at Ih\! ~houkkr: met (ront
n«klint;' I(In.
T.k" " strip IlprU'OK. 3en, r'\)IU tbe rront 1-boulder ~nd
.dd to h;,~kSholiider,
U1tC'k I)nl\\' In b\Ji;kyoke hne.
Tral."Coff b.ltk yoke. 'rn ...::cul1' the boaC'k5C'C1lOn
foronl Dmw in ptx:lci SIUlpc.
Dr:.w In (;lcinS line.
Trace nIT the (ronl ~cli()n.
Steeces Reverse (mnt sleeve lI'ong the centre line.
HoIIO\\' fronl curve or sleeve 0.7cm._
Shone" sleeve by fib dCl)lh m(,.I~umneOI.
FJldn;: Trace oIT fach)g. Re-dureceolrc ftQnt b). half
the %ip width.
Hood C(Hl$1nu!llhc: Simpk Hood to fIC\\ ncdo:lint'
mc';t).'\IR'nlc:nl (ref••, (><Igc: 1"9)
I)Ot"k« trace ofl" the From pocket..

2 FLEf.CF. JACKET II/IOLAN SLEEVE

Trace ('Iff ,tic Ir.,ck $uit block.
n.ICl. and .'(1'" Shortt's'l to tht' ~uircd kn,th
Sho.lcn IIsaiu by rill dl,1pthfftl:;lJUfcn'ICnl
("(\n\lrU\'1 b:~!lil:rlllll.11\ :uJllpt>lllon (p;I~loiS).
Cu,,~ the rJlll'''" lines OUI\\.ltd~ 0 7tm
Ulu,~k 'rraee ofT thl: bl,,:t IIC'CllOn
• runt I)m\\' in p\l\:t;Ct IIhllpt lind ;lIp po('\.ct pG3Il~l1.
Rcduee ('(1)10: rrorll by hulf lht l.Jp ",KIth.
0,..... In rueing 11111:'. 1'".. e1:ofT the (ront X('bon.
Slt('\f:( rtC\'C~¢ (h,nt"I~\c Ilion, ttl< «nlr-~line.
lioll"",' the rilgilin linn O.Sm.
Shortm sleeve by rib depth measurement,
~42f"l:point 1 ai poilu 25 on ,hc block.
~t:u'k point 2. Scm from the underarm poUaL
CUI along the line 1-2 and open approx l.S-an 10.3.
Rtdr.!.w the r.lgl:tll and underarm line.
r.dog Trace (lIT faeins;, Redcee cemre front ~. balf
tbe 7jp "'Jd(h.
CoDar Construct strui.shl rib collar t\\"'O thirds the
Mcasurcnlenl of the .ltek nlt'{J\urcnltnt or a St..nding
Strol'lIhl f;tbril: cuUnl' (I'tf 6 page 10J
l"ockt!t 'l'r;It.'t (Iff pocket.
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1 Track suit top - inset sleeve

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Hoods
~lEASURb TI-Ir: SIi.CK
'I'h~ntdhn{' or hoodl"tJ gill nll:llt~ I.) tI'>UlaUylu",~n:d
and .kJ('n.~ \icuti\lf( tho ne\'. IIcc:kllnC',

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- Measure the neck

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SqUJrt d~-n oInd .U:NS$ t'f\1111Q.
()..I Ihtl'(' qUAncr.loIbt' nllpc to \\jl~lolm~d)U~mt"nt
pia.. .al'1n;
1-2 6tm;
~U;&I'C
f,qua~01011,
(luI.

Or.m:• line (rom I. IDelUun'nlcnl of front ilnd bild

no.--thnc.. 10 louch the line from 2.
1\1aB POIDt 3: Mlul1re up 10 4.
l-;5 batt ncd:linc measurement.
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Onra in neck curve,
Raise t'be rune O.5cm from 1-5. • 7 11
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LO'III'Cr the- eeoe I ern from 30 S. -,
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~ balr the measumnent 0-1.
~1 quarter measurement 0-1 plus 2cm.
1--8 lan. DMI\'.in the head curve I. 8.6.4
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E'-tcnd the (mnt line "PPR)X.. tcm for n racing.

5 GUS$F.TEI) BOOI)
SqUll~ dCM'nand llcro"'.. troru 0,
6-1 Ihft'C'qU_lInc~the IIIIPC10\','IIl\1Inc.lju~mmt
ptu\6cm
1..2 mC';'II,urc:ml.'l1lof (NUll IllId bltck nC\:Lhne
~UO.l~ up 10 .\ •
2-1 1.San:Joln '-4.
1-3 8:.c).neekh~rnea-uremeur.
Raasr ttl,(- eerve 6.Senl Irorn I S.
t..u.'U I~ curve 1cru Irom 4 S.
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7.

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one fifth the measurement 0 ); squan: d()Yo'1lto

O-S half the measun-Inctlt Ow6.

qeaner 0-1 plus Zenl. •
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6-11
Jem.
2cm. 'V ,
,,: " 7"
t I-U lcm. Draw in bead CUI"\'t' I. 10.8. 11. / .... ,

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6-13 half the measurement 6-1.
..... " 1cm. Or..\~'in rNnt curve 1~.13. '4
Add bu"OMI:tnd~ mark 101UdpoSilioni.
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"l4th.6enl.
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0.1 01'1( third the n\tll\lIrC01Qtlt 0 I: Mju.tl'C 1M:'1\))) ·••, , \ •
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Knitwear Blocks

\'el") (01iS)fitill', &,lIfn'C:ln~can be eut (rom "mptt
b.'ik'shaf'l""; lh,' i, IlJlrliculllfly :10 i( )'1)1.1 are "Of kin,
",lb "nilled garment ..h:lI)CSOf "11h jc:NCt r:.brk:. ~
IiIhr..: ,*,,11Jlr(u::h ever Ih~' ~'olnl'k)Cran:a"or ItI< bod)
'I Co. the bu,l) or u ttll" or the bml)' lh.'l hli:\"CC,\f'("mc
mevemem (LC. ('100"·')'
lltc:- bl.lliic »rid I(H' knlt\\(,llf ean ee uS«J (Of
dcslpina slu,pc~li,r hnnd knith", or machu\(
~Iutllna. The ~'XIHUf)lcs t.hl)\\' h;a~I(,M\:lptI.. but (:af
"'0r( ('(l,upJt<),.hal)l.!'~em be dc\ttopcd

Tbe Basic Grid

~Ot(' 1~1 Ihi> ,rid ba)! 1'1,1 case lnclui.lc:d; it I$-basK 6-8 qcaner bUS1 nll1t$uI'tIUct'll: $qulin: up 10 Ihe
bod,. masurt'meflls. Substantial extra (3jC must be armscj'c,
:added ror mM'tmenl aed $l)'ling.. Ot:t\\·. line from 7 fer Ihc shouldcr len;lh
mca,.u~n1e1U: Cdn!llrUC11hcline: "' .l J r llngk from
MEASUREMENTS REQUrRED TO DRAFT the line (ron'l 0,
THE BLOCK 7-9 s)'Qukier measurcrneut.
The block$ eM be dranl,."(llt) !oi'lccodes 8,10. '2. 14.
etc.".01 Sml.. \1C"d. Lge, Xlgl:. I l(~l~VFAR AI)AI'T,'TION SLEfVE !I.'SIC
Eumplc sho'o\'ni< (or a size \\4c:d.:refer t.o Ihe see SIIOULDER
cb:tt1~(pale 12) rOf Stlln(hlrd Ille~I.sU'cmt:nIS(or .ltVa Trace the b:l~icsrid; n,:.rl; point$O.I. 2. 6. 7. 9
SlrC"t't /4fJrilM 5'lrlI1COI... ~tllJ't poinl 10(In ihe centre b;a~l.lin't .., IC'CIUI~
I~nllh: $qUillc IIC"')$$.
1>01" ~8('nl I1cl.'lk ~l/t J7cm 16-1 1 I~ one qunrlcr ~'hc:slphl~ the "moun, or CASC'
n;)pc to "011,,1 41 till deeve le"ilb a.nd 'I) linlt rt'1,lul(clllcnli.: square up.
oarm"')'Cdepth 21 em O<""Y) SIan ~tarll f'Olrll 12 .ill'lrnl"Cye dl:plh rtqulrcd.
)b-m.aJd« 12:.2tul \\'Ili!ll 10 hi~ W6<n! Squ.n:: IIcroS!! hoth \\'11)'$;119. u.\il1,u.c shoulder line
back "'ldlh J4.4crll to ~Ilafl: froln.
\1:.r1: poinl IJ ,,'he~ the 'lIqUllfe 1l(1'~ hne:' meet,.
604) S«tiom tbe tine (run' O.
Squarr dMi n and across from b. Draw a line, 10 create the armscye shape. rrom 11 to
0.1 I.S(>O. IQl.I(:bthC '$(1\1'1,«1across line', 1\1~rl. lh~ POlftt ,.1.
o-Z 00«: fiflh neck sec n11l'\I$O,2crn, Squ~r.: Out from 9 the j~rsc)' "ICI:\'c mcasu.rtrnc:nl. 10
1-3 artnSC)'c depth measurement:square :ac~ to point IS.
IlUrk Iltm$(")'e JiM. 15-16 = euO'depth.
,.l..4 l.$em: SCi,llItt :.tCI't'S'J10 Inill'k bust tine, 16-11 = width requiml III the lOp o( the ~C'C:\'C n"b:
1-5 n«" to ,,'''1111 measurement: square IICroj,$10 square across to 18. Join 11-12..
ro:.uk .3tslbn«:. Fold the .scction 1. 13. I) :llona tbe sboukkr I.tnc': nur"
5-w6 "~m10 hip lue!t~III'enlCItI:squ .. ee tlCTO~~1(1 point 19,
m:arl. Ihe h'pllne, Trace bae.li uSing th e .shoulder hne 1 19
~1 one finh neck size "linu, O.2cm: dr.,V!.in boact Tr.lCCfmnlllslllS the ,shDuhler-linc 1-IJ,
0«1: carve ff'()M 7 I: draw in J'mnt nl."(;1:cune from TnlCCsleeve: Inirror the i!c'C'\'(' on Ihe ""tre Me.
7 2. join point 14 Ii) ' ..,
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2 KNmVEAR i\O,\p'rA1'IONINSET J KNIT\\'EAR AI) ..\PT..\TION
SLEEVE F.xTENI)F.DS~IOU~DF.R R"Ol.AN S~EEVE
Tra« the msic grid; mark points O. I. 2.6, 1. 9. Tra« the:'bllsic grid; mark points O. I. 2, 6. 7. 9,
~iQrk poinl 10 01'1 the: cemre back line: III I'fqUI~ ~111r\:point 10 on Ihe centre back line III "",uired
lcns,h; sqPJ4~ IICroj.~ knlth: ~1\ulrClIIcrol(.",
10-11 ,ft one:q~I:Ir1crclh..,t I'lu\ tlu: amount o( ~.J.~ 14)..11 '\ one quarter chest pi".. 11'1('amount or f:;I~
.nd SI)lanan'quil'tmcnl!l: :fqUtltt up. and St) lillS requirements: MIU.IKup.
~tllr\ poll'll 12 at utlnsc)'cdepth rc:qulrt\l. ~tlltL:. point 12 :11tlrnl.SIC)'cdepth ~u,mJ
t,'\Ic:nd Ihr lohoulcJcrhne to Ilollilion n:quircd; m;ari. "'lend the ,houldcr line froln 9, the Jet'll:) U«\'C'
point 13. Ora"' In armseyc sbnpe from 12-1311$ mca}uJ'(!nl(nt, to pohu 13.
reqUired. 1.\-1-1 • cuff depth.
Square out (rom 131h('jcrsc)' slce\c rncasuremeet, 14-15 = width rcquiret.1 :at the top or
1M sI«\~rib;
mloUJ the ).h(Juldcl' CJlICII~ionto point IS. Squar< square' across 10 16. Join lS--l2.
down. On...·a linc from the underarm point 12 to point 17
1S-16 -= cuR' depth. on 1M front neck.
16-17 -= ",tdlh required a' the top or the:sleeve rib: 01";1"' a line frotn the underarm point 1210 poll'lt 18
square' <Kross to 18. Join 17-12. on the back neck.
T~ (mnl. back and sleevesections, Truce off front, back and steeve secuoes as sbmt.-n,
~tirror the fronl sleeve (tnd place the $l('C'\"C s«1ion$
~t)tC' Some: knitted gatlnenls do not have an)' together ~I()IISthe centre slet'\-~linc.
3rm~'e sbaping. "he bod)' section side: scam
(Oftlinue$ (rom 12 until it nleclslhe e;llcnd(d Note I\lthoug.h this 51XIion ccncernretes on lh(' basiC'
~ouJd('r ~m. The steeveis mendroned from 'hi> ih~pi",. many "I,ria1ions of lihapecan t~Lc pbce b)
DC"a'POll'll, the use of \';Ir),jng stitctlcslo create ddl'e-rt'nt I) pes or
~ocC' Ih:lt Ittl .. nle,hod produces :. vcr)' dropp«! fabric. '-his IllClhod can shape- Ihc: prmen1 lnt(,M.'tIl),.
Shoulder and ",,\"plu' fl.lbrilJin the Ilr.:a or the For c.J(llmple.Inos.~~tilch creates " nat rllbr~. ThIS tJ.n
UDd('Drm be used with t1 form or ril)binl th.u ",III "hap«: the
~Inn('ntinto tht bOlly.
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154
Computers and Knitted Garment Shapes

The "ttl,lInc indU)lfY j" IU,,\' hil(hl)' t:{)111rUlcrlltd l"hc el1l(1 kllhuns lIuluSlty. \\htch USC"S
do~tC
~i"n)' miKhinC'.)can Ltlll ,"nnt:Ill.~ ,hlU tmrlO) \nlll1nC1n;,chuu:, ,,, now ere..lln. :.d,C'nlutou) )hapc-~
r.ihJou,n, to C~:llc:inletlull $h(lfJill~.Prrm .Ind stable otl'H1 Jc.''4iJI'I\. CQI111)111Cr
1)(olu'lnl. "hK"h :t~
10 cHn~lrUl:llhl) I) pe or
lr.n~ttt<l( ..bnc j\ uOC(d >urprl\ina1y incXI~n!iI\'41.Ilr.: :.,\..llllb.!(.. ~ PCOIMlm.li
pnnd'1 Garmentll eOIl)lfll~'c:d in loose or un-slllbk offer b;»Je lihl1ptf. which \.'nn ,11(n be modlfk'd. Of th.c
kOltlcd (abn.r:. or highly l);tllCrneli r,lbrll:. u..'IUltIl)f'(")' progmm \\'111"now you 10 create )vur O"D Wpe1.
M tbe C'1.l.)~.)Implc. kni'l~ IIhllP!:$,lihi)Wnon Ih~ Soll~(,prow-nln\~1111\(.'
11 ~rl'lIln~ ~>li.trn (C)f- "Mln,,,~
prt'\iou-," pages, ~lutu)fu.l!tufCfS of c:hlUlptf knil\\'e;lt. "'ell as individunl siting .
...1tK"b 1$ cut from 'body bll,nks' and then o\'l'rfockro.
:also uSC:$Implc sh:lp¢$ in Qrder 10 luinimilc r,.bric
"',",1~
 155

Part Two: Flat Cutting

II CLOSE FITTLNG GARMENTS
(stretch and jersey fabrics)

CLOS~ rrn II'-G DOD' BLOCKS _ISO

Li!()CiINOS BLOCK 156
I CLOSE rrrnxo RIBBeD ,01' 158
1 BASIC CAP SLEEVED TEE ISS
3 SPORTS SKIRT \\rITH PANTS 158
4 STRETCH DRESS 153
U()I)YS'-'Al>ERS 160
S\Vl:vt \VE,\R 160

SPECI/\I..~O'TE.c;
'+h(,:04'blocl:1 3rt" cons.rueted (0 be ~Jnilncr .thlll Ihe boo) mC:l5urcml:'nl. ~tld10
!Urtll.1hto t~ bod) sb::tpe Scme 4dju\lmentS 10thl: Itori-zonlal measurnncnls
m~y have In be m:.d( (IhiS should be related 1(1Ihe $I~tch "nod rcl:..~lion of
dltltrenl r"br ..."'l f"r more t«hnieu.1 ,nformation ulld bluc~ ("(lI\,..""",llon W"C'
('har1t'N 2 land 'In I"ub¥k. /'fKIf' IlIrlll''1t1t 1~/Jtt'rll (·I./I,J,,~abe b) the ilulMr.
~tOSt dC'...I",(;n 'Im('h f..bric'li '1fC slm"le nlotlilicluiol14 of the b;aJ.i( blocls.
the (')l.lllnpK111\thts dwPCCf dcm()ft,'r.llo some 1,.lrli~ul.lrIc..:hnlqu('",
'Ibe ..1«\'( n~.;t\ur<n'('nl u..c<l j) Ille jcr'IC'y;.ll"\'C tenalh. but IlIl\ m:.) \Idl h.r\('
10 be IIdju1tro '0 r.a_bri( J(fttt"h .lnd n:.1.1.AlJlionPI'OPC:rI'~

SI7.INC:
Spotl~'I'(d.t lind SO11M'C<lMW"'('UT mOilluOu.:tun:r$ u~ulllI)' U~ swng b~k.s or
S~II-'LL ~IEOll1~t.l..AkGE. ~nd XLAltGb, 1'11C exampte "i:nap IJ.SC'd In the-
lollo\\·jng drafLs::a~ baiaj on sill' ~t('(t.."liSh Street (u,/,Io" prm('nb. S«
IXI~12.
 textilestudycenter.com
156
Close Filting Body Blocks
'f'bNc hI()C'kJlere drafiC'd ror maxtumm l'tn:tcb. fine Sbort Sk-tt,'C
ntlbcd ,chC)' I>t 1.)'C'(3 fllhfics. f.;\tr.1('_a~nmJ«I ror 1' .. l.1 steeve lena1h n:iIUln:d; ~qU"f~ lIem'li( 10 14
ks" fI~lbIe )CN) (111)rl($i:. 1I110n""in bm~t(l~ :U-15 I.$('m:j(>in 20 lS wnh u eutve,

MI~'SURI!M~N'rs IU:QUIREO TO ORA~'T

TBI SLOCK Leggings Ulock
11w: ~OI:k.)cun be I.Ir:at\('{Ito $il.~coo~ 8.10. 12. '4,
etc or Sntl.
Eumrtc ,hn\\n i~
~'cd. Lge. Xlgl·.
lilr I' :cite \\rIcd.:re,'(r to Iht
h,1"
bod)'ri"'C
'''tm
!lout 2S""
(bal1$ (P'I~Il) for stllnllllrd fl'lC-;I$Ul"I:mcnts tOt Illp "-a;)l 10 Ilcor 104(n,
Slrtttfo,sJUM garments. bigb ankk 21 em

bu" tlttcn, neck $1)'(; 37cm .·n)tl1

nape- to • .isc 411:m armscye depth llcm SquaT('down nnd IlCroSS from 0.
bxk "idlh 3J,-'cnl "'riSt 16"" 0-1 body rise minus J orn; square ;.erOS$.

>1«\,<
ti<n<»
"""h 52cnl 0-.2 \\'Ai.\t10 nOelr Ininu~ Sent.; iqu.t~-:tC~
1-3 bult tbe measurement 1-2: squ:;u'C'aercss,
1-1 quarter hip mcasurcmem minus 2cm.;square up
llood) StflinrK to 5.
Squa." dO'l' n ;Ind ~IC{O'''Sfrom (~. S-6 icnl
0-1 nl);}. to ",'ai~tplus I em (O,Scm)"; square ocros.s.. +-7 qUI. ncr the measurement oI-S.
O-l finished Icn,lh: squltt\' :\cr(r,\J, 4-11 eee Sill:lh the measurement I......
~.l armK':)'C'depth Illil1U~ 3 tin (11;'11\; M4u.lrc UCf'C)')t.. '*
Join 6 7 ,Inll 7 \.,.1111
u eurve tou~hln,. J)C'lnt
~ hair the mClJsurement 0 ): "'lu,lIr¢ IICI'O"S. SllC$ 8 ,.. 2.2~~n'(ron,"
1)..5 eee "'aJuh lit" rneasurcment 0 4: liq"ar( ~ sl/C'C 16 22 2.S('n, (ron,"
0-6 CHICMl:th nctk ~i~(' (1)1U1II en.): lIqu:,~ u", 2--9 hllit hi~h nnkle (nc:.I~u~nlCnl mlnv, 0 ~c:m.
... , t.Jem: dr.I'" JI\ 1I~'(1i:euree l-IO t"'O thir~s Ihl.) IIlt.LS\I~lncnt , .... mlnu, 0 Scm
U bolLr~d.\\'Illth mif'lu~ 2,Scm (1I;'n')~lIqUil1'C up Draw lrulde leg !lei"": j01l1I) 10 ""Ih a .tr'il~1 hnt.
to 9;and 10 JOin 8 10 ('Un ing tbc line in"'II'W O.'Scm
III-II I an: Jo,n 7 II.
J...t 1 qlRlnc:t b1JStminQ~ ~c:ln (I ('ttl): MjUOLrc dC)\\n to n..c'_
13 em the ..-;tlstllne., 1-1on 1111:hemline .5-11 4"",,
tP~"
1ft arm.st..')( (\It\'¢. frOIl' II Ihrtlush 9 10 12. Il_ll Jcn':join 12 O.
lJ-tS :lcm (2Ctn~ draw III ssde k<'Illl 12. IS. loa, .....13 cue Ihitd rneaauremcnt -4 5.
~16 QIl(' sixth neck size Ininu, I em (U.S-em): 8--14 one finh measuremeurt-a.
01":1\\'in fronl neck curve. Join 12-1J tlnd 13...1·1"'ilb " curve louchin; .. pcian
Ibtlr: ~ndIrcnt ;.'It(' lh( $:Inlc c-\r:epl for ftont n«l si«:$ 8.-1.. 3.1Sl.!nl from':
curve. "aes 16-22 4em from 4,
9-15 2cm
S,""" 1(}..16 .l('m.
Squ~R' dtNn rrom 17. Draw mside leg /leiU»; jcm 15-16 ",Ih a 'Ilnugbt hne,
.7-18 tulf Ihe In~!u,un:.n'ent0-3 rlu\ I em lO,5cm). join 101-16. cur\'c lho line In\l,-'"rd$O.15cm
11-19 jC'~y liJC't\'e lcn2th plu~ .tem f2('m); SQ\lltrot
x'o,...,_ Crt'MlllIj:• Oni··I"jC'((, 1).lltrn
11-20 .he mell)urt'1l1CIU or ,he:,ll.l,l:l,)nl&llin( rrom rr..c."'< mun,1 bllck lOI.,,'1inn
(hea\) line)
II 12onbod)S«tlonJJ1u~O.5cl'n Tr~ round (roll1 $(<.,,1011(doued IIn~.
lG-2:t onr Ilurd mc:l<O;\lr~"'~'l1t 11 2{). \llrror ,11('(",I)llllul plItt'( Ihl: 1id~ ~~m'\ 1000lhrr
Oru\\ 1ft ikc\"t h(,lId. IlolI(l\\' the C"f\~' Q,64..'ttt(roaa Add l.Scm f;acl"" al Ih~ 1<'(1). Zero (jl('tft,III th( hem
20 21: r..l.~Ih(' C'Ut\( 21,;In rn)m 11 21
1'-12 hal(" flsi phl5 O,S ...nl (I ('n,'; j0111 20 12.
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158
I CLOSE Fln-INO RUI8F.D TOI' 1 81\SIC CAP SI.EEVF.1l TEE
Troll:<01Tlh~ block (Of l1ul;<ln111111.lfc:l.:h rllbtic 10 tbe Trece niT Ihe blcx:k for ,1.".... tlesibl\': jerk) rabnc to the
f't'qUlmj kngth ~Ultt'd length.
Bact and Fro"' SC'<'II(ltli' l)rll\V In Ihe 1()\\<n:'J Rae" IItld .:«UII Sl'CII4)n.; l)rll\\' In ~'(mIn«""ne
MeL'inc JLa~ ("Ulo;l\\jl)' ftfln~)'CItn", Draw in .he :a-,. rC'ClU Irc(!.
.tdlh or nhbcd cd6!u,S around the nccL and ~tc'\'C.... ~IC"('\(' I~rllw III the: ('liP -ccrlon on Ih(' ~'('
Trace orr .he back and fl'Oll1 sccucns, \1"1'10poin,,, • ;'1'1<1 2. ~1clIsu((, Ihe konlth.
'1C:;lSIl~ Ibt: t;al"CIKIl81h On 'he bod,« ..rm.tot)c po,nl
.\ .a fl.1olk u nOh.'h III poilu 4.
Trace ofl' the ,op CliPsection of IhC'~~ Ol\m mte
(our sectlons,
Om.' u vertical 1111..1
hbriwlu!11 h«
CUI bod open Ihe.sI.'Clion; ;l~
1ho....n,
TicMXround the new sleeve shape,

) SI'OR1'S SK IRT IVI1'H PANTS

8::a:c-k.lId .~ronlSkirt s..lU:II~ out and dO'll>Dfrom O.
~J \\"1lisl 10 hip minur.. 6cm..
0-2 skif' It1l8-lh.
1-3 qUilntr hip nt~a!lll~nl(ni minw Len,
Square down 10 -I.
quarter \\'(lISI m,,"a..~Ufem¢ntplus '.Scm.
0..-$
!-6 1(In: dl'l\\\' in ""!li:u curve.
4-7 2cln:join 3-7. Join 3 ~ 'Witha (.'Un"'t".
0r.J\I. i* \(nlt.,1 hue from 11'Ic: "nttC' or Ihe " ..i"dln('
to the hctn
Cut and open "I the h~'n IlPpro\ J $em
I:-'n'c 6qU!1I'Cdo\\'n frOln 0
0-1 \Io1l«'IIOlUI' mlnu$ 6cn,: ~u ..re ouL
0..2 body r.Sl· 11I11IU1o j" 1:111:~U."T out
1-.1. '-Iquarter' hlp luc:aIUn:m~nl m.nw 3.5c:m.
Square' up H't S .111416. IIl1d down tc 1 and •.
5-9 2(''1n.Join.1 9.
1-IU qU01rtt'r 1..._l plus I tn'l: join 3--10 with .. nan-eo
10--11 SC.nl.
11-12 2.Scm: JOIn 10-12.
6-13 Ion;join ().,.13.
8--14 3.2Scm; sqUllR out.
14-15 quarter 1-8 plu$-2.5c:m:ja-lft4-15 "ith:a

15-16 SCfU,
16-17 2.5c:m:dra,\' l1:gcurve 11.!' 12..

4 STRI;T('li DRESS
Tr.ux' off the block (or tl'iS tre:xibit'Ff'K)' I:,bm to tbr
r('quu~dleegrh.
Illl~l. 110«1
l')Ollf &'(1100" 01'11.' In Io,,~k'd n«l.""e
.a~tequlred, 1)(11\\' ill tll'nl$<;)( bne,
0,..\10 in fro,.t Ilo.H1CIIiI\e.
Tr.r.oc<,Ir b.;lck nnd ftonl ~11(,"'
IJIt'1.. ~hllpt "'al~1ill I ('In ",t .. J'W)lnl lnn bt~ It\<
n..lurll' \\ililltUIil'!. Add I .s cn.. flJIT to btm
fmnl Sh.ll>C'Volli~lO.S-cm. Add l.5cm t].1.rt= to hem
CUI und o\'trll'1l) the ncekUn~ O,~cm
Sid(' P••K'1 Shape \\'Wlit III I em. Add I.Scm B~rC'to
b<11L
 159

1 Close fitting ribbed top

, J

-
i II
•
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i
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pants •
1
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--
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. dress _1"1) _.
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 textilestudycenter.com
160
Bod~shilpers ll-21 r;lltC Ih.:tun(' 2,,_
%'90-3%hAI( wti'll "luJon ~tm, JOltt JO..l! "-llh
MEASllRI Ml "TS RP,QUIIUU 1'0 DRAFT a curve
TIlE810("
n.t~~~'"""bronnnJ In~l/~c,'odn:!t.
10.I!.'" 'iWt :\.....,..
... s.I. "<d. I.,.. XL..
0< Z'7-).,\ .~c k-n,lh maUlft\J. ""w...1't ....-",,10 lot
fuer't • .".. I~ror II\b(t 'ltd "rer &0 Ik ~ J.I-l$ I ~cm,)OIn 10 JS "llh.a cunc.
cUn, (~ IJ. (or "1:lnd~,,1tn(.l'UR'm(nl> S\)r.11'"
~1tU\j.l;AI(~.",mtnllii, !')ftt,'C'h.......nod) ...hlll~"r
1l-J.6 2.$\,,.1
bu..
"*
~."'1ll nf\-'" !)./C )1(.. 11-37 .. ~efn. draw tn IIC',""
IIIRI....')C' cgnlt'6 ~,
~ &0 ..... 'Ian ,I«\(~
~~dtprb lion (pw)1 5:...
bar.* "'lh ~"cm \1,1"'" If)"... Swimwear - Basic Shape
Bad< 8111("1:
Sqw:~d"" n And across (mnl O. Coru.lrU(,1 ;i\\·j,n\\'car
block Il~lor bod)~r blocl:
.... ned; ttl _~I'I plus I em, s;qu.lrc .ICI'OS$. up to poll'll 7.
1-1 bod) n\t. "IWlre- :sC'wss.
t-J U'DbC)C *rtb plus 1.5fJft;iqu~~
).4: tu!lr b&ck ~'idth min.u.,..a Scm; .,q1W"C'.p
_ 10 OD lit< hnt' from 0 Mn T 10
10'
1--4 .... 1M mc",Utt'nk'nl 0 3. ~u ..~ II~ ~II qUArl~f bust mmus "an. tqlUt'C' do.--ft to 12 on
0--.5 one fiOh ItI< measurement 0 4. square ;acr\)ol." tM ... t1Ihnc. 1.100 (he bod) rl~ hne.
0-6 up.
one ~Iklh nl'C). stzc; 0;(11111'': Ilr';lVo In Ilrln'~)'t: curve, from 10 Ihtl)uJ,h 9 to II
6--, I .5 C1'n + d r.IW in eeek c:ut\ e 1-1-1 qUoItll'r tneasurement I 2, JQU.t~ JIoC."'fO"-'\ In I~
.l-8 1uIj( bML "tdth mlnu,0 ~lnl, "Iu"", up to" ISo-I' 0 ~(,In
,.nd 10 1z..17 llnl 1"41" In ~MU"".am
1.... 11 lem ,..,,, 1 II 1-11 6em. ".tn
161M
J....Z 4;1'""'"' ~.I mlnu, I ~..m. "IU.1ft'dorr.a
lJo" It\( .'I\llIn(', 14on the bod)' rl~(llln('
hI.' DD- In botl'" k$. l."lIt''" ItQ~16 •• OIlC.. ,vd, 0 4"m
l.oY.c:r btllloin \'U"'I: rmm I' III U 4icm bek.,. roll'll.!
0t1M ID.rn,'C)( curve, from II Ihroulh 91012
1-15 '1W1n('f med'Ufl'nlCIU I 1; \4\'"~:tc:'fth\ 1(1I. Irunl
....., Jm 3--J9 lulr mC.I\\l.I\'_u,cnl, .. llrw"- lroDJ.c\L cun<.
._)....I$ "!(nn 0,.", WI ede i<;lm 1-21 ('nt s."t«nlh ~I mf..'uraD('ft1 phi) 0 (ca:
1-1' eee C1Jhthbust mt'asuttmenl pm 1aft. 'tlIIt1lMl' JQ""'"' .K'm\., \ .san to 21 ~Wlt'C' up laa to 12 k1tD
.;across J -Scm lQ 20 16-,'n_
1-21 squ"f('~ut 6(", fur gusll~tIlIt('~Jl>iD21 17 !l-l~ h;llf I"l!' measurement 16 12_
~. m b3t'k It:~;curve line 21 17l"'utwards O.Scm Orau In (R.nl Ir;K:curve line InYlludJ. 1.1Scm ;112)
I>nrtrr in. fU\Sd CUf'C, eerve line 20 21 IOv.--atd$O,~ca 2.-24 rnea)Ur('nl~nl 2-20~ "quoin: but 'em to 2$

._
TDCc' o(f flbw:\ D~ ~ CI,H''C.''d lme from 21 CO~
poctUc:m

~ll one
.b(w.~2. Add 1nn to lhe ilIk 19-~

JI)jlh neck size minull I t:1I1,dr.l~·ln rl'\W\l

eun? hnc.21 .2$ in\lo"".lLro.>O_lcm.
Looa"n' botlom C'Ur'\'C from 2~10 0 ~(tD bckM
poIDt 2.:

a«l;. can't. Swimwcnr - Bra TOil

:..U a...tf' Ihe m(.A\Ul'('lnenl 1 1'1. "IUolIrc UT\h.. 1"",",
w 2" .tqUA~up!an co l.s.jntft ~S 11 Tf;k~ l,1l 1M (,(\nl bllXk. mlr'l)f II"OftI.ti~.
l-~l6 ai' lk In(';a~ureln('nl2~11. l ..16 hotl'mh,utnnc-nl 1 II mu., lCIII.~ 7 ~
0nIv. .. 'r1'nl k,. lOune IIn(' '"".tN,
1.1Sea 1t116 \."1'" ~ hi'll: th~ knllh af , !~.
10 Cft';It~~ IO('M
dot" .:at 1ft \1.IIk J'Ohu 11,
~~t' D,~y, •• UII(, 011:111lung 10 lou\:h tht 11M (,om ~ ...t l~
~ured""'n from:7. I).....In iin"~C)'t:line II 23
n-ll b.al(
Ibt rnn..~u.rt1nC'nt0 l rlu, Iem I)rp. In b,1lI "lllIpt.l.Inr\foo oc'\Jr.llllt aM )('~ ... 1ft
17-l'9 ~ .trc-,It k'Q~.. b r'uf, letn. ~uan:: ","row. .... cur
J"hliI t.k ~'umnc:nt o( 1M d~1OOi&J Imr froM Tra« vlf top .n'll boctom ttt1.on, uf aht bra
II 12 on bod) \(\;11011"lu", O,Sl;m Close- IhC'dOJtt ,n the lOp ~M)n
.».JI hol~ Ihe' Cllr'~ 1I,(I(nl RairoM bottom line and n«k'lnc: If dlSlorted.
 161

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 163

Part Three: Size and Fit

12 BASIC GRADJNG TECl-rNIQUES

CR,\I)ING '·OUR Sll..hS p,oj,,<l64

GRAOING ONE srzs UI' I ORM CUTTINO I....
{jl{I\I)INC ONt:. SitE UI' I--LAr C'lJ1-rINO 167

diniC'uh subject. Therefore, a.., thi$ ts: :an

(l.lau)'l'tud(hl\ find pdtnS:'
inll'oductory book. cnmpJcs o( )lnlple gnldln!! are dellJOnslr..tN usm. 1M
$ifhpliJIcd SIZe' cb;ub 00 p;agf: 12-
(;Nldin_e.(or fol'fll eNllint il1 ,his chttpu~ris based on we size' charI rot" codes. 10.
I:!. 14. etc. ThIS ch;ir1 Il.~ Scm inlC'rv;tls and an even grade' bel"'CCn most W.e:s.
(;r:1I1io~(orflol cu,'ittx b based on the size chart for "lith Slrttt fashion~-:
Sml. .Mcd. 19c..XLg~ This chan O~ bern intervals and an even grade between
,III siaes,
 textilestudycenter.com
164

Grading Measuring
four sizes

-- -
, , I

I' ..uere ,radin, iJ 11tcchnt(ltI( \I$(d re "prodUCt' lit.
pattern In other $;Zd,. JI must be dooc accun ..tc.l}~
sm~1I errors unnQIlt.'\'d "'h~11one ~j_ui1 SCldcd
become diff)(uities "hen m(ll\), !iJ.C$ are required An
KCUulc mrthod i.s 10 drn" the 5millicst size, gnde the
bf!l."":Sisiu.. then stop 00' the sixes bct..~..een on lines
df':l\\"lllhmuGh ibe busic pcims (sec diaSl'3m).
Grading machines and C()lhpUICC'S ;an: a\"'3ibblc. but
it is necessary for students 10 understand ~ pnncipk
of padins p:tllem!l Althaush Itl!l.llufaClurrrsh3R
IMiI own gr;win_g S)".SICll1ll. once the principk is ~mt
one Clln undcl"(llIl1d 111:\\'lutlhud$ quk'll) The
mC'lhod used «)r findlug II point by mGiSunDj!
to, sho",n abo\-e. frol'n b.'ti(
horilonHilly ,JII!'tI\~rlit:~III)'
PQinl I UletlSUrehQI'i7.()ru~Urrc:quind m~urcmcnt
~tilrkpoint 2:. square across. ~lc:;uun:- n:f1JGtlI)
~ulrro measurementpo!nt 3. Ora", !lliM Ibrough
the point....J and J fOT n ~~(Un' line Poml$.(Ot
funbcr grading can be made aJon» lh"Dtine.
The-meibcds .shl)\\'ndernousrsategrading. ~ b3sit-
J'I'I-llrm cee SIU: up. Fhe linC'$througb tbe b:tsic pomls
can be u~ 10 cOlltinue t:rllding into furtbtt sUd.

Grading One Size Up - Form Cutting (5 em intervals: size chart page 12)
Skirt for dr ... block

..-,,
Bodice ,
-- --- _ .... '"
-"-- -
........
~
block

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_. .... ---_
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"I..

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...
,~
~-...- ----
;._-
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.. _--._ ..
..
_-----. __-,'.,
~ . __-.-.--;.i - - -~
- - .. - ... - - -_
.. I ,
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_ .... -_ .. -
.;It _.. •

- --_ -.., .... _ ,~

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•o
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CMAU"C: 0:>1£ SIZ" UP "OR SIZES 1;>'18,\1\1) Illlt"

lfj...1oI4(u.(' chart Poage 12). I mC':.sul'C' 5 nun 110f.
J-\ppJ) Ib( fi,Uf1:'tt 10 1111"h'es. It)(:(pl tor the front 1 me-.._,urc' mm her 2.Smm \'cr'
bodl« between )l1C' 10 I:lnd 12. refer 10 the- inlrUC1~M 3" 5 n~calluro".Snrm hot.lmm '~rL
III bf'ol,(~l!. 6 mea,_urc "nun hot. ·..~nlm ven,
1 me:.,u", 2nnn llQr.60lnl \Cn
8; 9 measure 10 111mvert,
101111 lUea)un: 3Jnln'crt.
 165
Front SIC't",e
13." 1$ MC'.;a)\Jrt! 5.Slnul hoI', • rnt'aS"urc 6,~lnlllvcet
16 measure 6n1Ol(Joun, hal'. 2 measure g,SmR'1 \'I.'rt •
I 1 m(.I~UI'('• rum t5mnl. hoI'. l.Sn'I" \<1'1. J fnnl'UI"Clmnl hoI', 2.$nlln ,'(no
18 m~.;asufCSnll'll (SmAl, hoe, 8.Smnl \'(1'1 .. rne;t~ure I mill hor, ).5mm vert
19 ma,ull' ~ ~tntn (4rnll1) hor. Il)lunl \'(rl ~ Inc~"rr4,S""1t hoe.
20 measure J mm hal'. 101l1ln \~11. 6 ~oI~UfC I mill hoI'. 71lun vcn
till Mc'''~UfCISm!'n \'I,l(I, 1 n\(';tS"rcImm her, 8.' rum \(1'1
Skirt Btock to (II UOO;~.,.Ultl(k ror 'twe-I..tece
O"",lIIook
Dod<
nK"")~ .3 mm bor
Sleeve Block
1: 3 ~ S 6 1 measure 1 mm her• .)rum vert.
8 mea.<;ort' 3mm bor, IOmm vert.
9 tnl:.Mun: 12..Smm vert. ."
10 menurc?rom bOI. 12.51nn1vert.
t t messure 1mm hor.

"~roat
12 me01SUn' 3 mm her.
13 I" IS
me.."-urt'lilun 110r. IOmm ven,
16 mU'Ufe 1mm hllr.• 5 rum vert.
17 measure 12_S1nm ven,
18 mu,5Urt 1mm her, 12.$1111'11
19 mc.. ,ure 1ml'. h6r.
\~rI
-- ..... -- ... -- ... --~

Tailored Skirt Block

~1
TliliionodSkirt Block
82C't
t me:tsu~ 3mm bor.
1 J ~ me:asure 3mm bor, "rom vert.
567 mQ'UI'r llnm hor. $11'11'11 vert,
S tm'Ol$U~ 3mm hor. Il.S"un vert
9 mt1l~urc11.,Srnnl vert ..... -;,.t .. _ .. - - ...
10 mc .. ,ure 7mn' her; IJ.5ulIn vcrl
1I mC'a'u~1mm hilI'.
fron,
12 mcuufC Jmm hor;
IJ I" I~ n't41,urt: 31111Qhor, 3nlll' ven.
16 mCDUI\' Jmm hor; 12.51110' \crl
17 masurc' IUmm vert.
18 m~~ure 7m", hOI', 13.5nll1' vcrl
19 mc~surc'imm hor, - I
 textilestudycenter.com
166

, ~ ;r---::-",:-:--::-::--.:_:-:_~_'::--=-:-:-:-:-:-:. 7..7.."f~;"-:--c-"'-",-",-",-:-,-=--=_=_ -=- t::--=-=_ ":"'l:<'/

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'tbt- <:t~ 'Iailored 'l'ru\I.\tf UI(K'k "roflt
illicit; 16 n't';:t,ul't' 1111nl hut, 4111m \t'rt.
I measure 7mnl bor; ).5n1ln vert, 171819 measure ',urn hor.
ll.a measure 1mnl hut. I nun vert. 10 measure 7nll11 her, S.Snlm vert,
567 measuee 1mnl hot. ".5nun 'crt. 11 mt':a"ul'C' 4 nun her; 8.5 mm \"('n.
S measure ?rom ho-r. 91)1111 "crt. 21 measure I,S1l1l11 hoI'. Jmm vert,
9 measure -tmm hor; 9nuo Vert. II 24 measure J nun her, 2.S mm vert,
10 me:wcre 1.5 rum hor. 3Ull11ven. 15 measure t.Smm hor. Smm vert,
II 12 mc;lL.~urc'lmm hor, 2.S mrn vert, 26 measure 7n~'n her;
13 mc:-.tSun: l.5mm hot. jmm vert, 27 measure 'mnl hor. "mm vert.
l" measure 9mm vert.
I~ tn.o»ure 4 mm hot. 3.SU1111vert,
 167
Grading One Size UII - FIliI
CUlling
ORADIl'-G FOR SMALl•• MEOIUM.
lAR()~ Al'-D I:X'I R,\ lAII(I€ SitiNG
Rc(c1' 10 both C'r Ihe '11..4' (h'lrl~ fin 1),1&(12 j
Gnldinl SJlC'!o- \'lIln"r ...
lun (~lIrtllt'nl...
t
Sm.II. ~ltI. ~1\-dhutl.11-104. 1...llt),lt. 16--18. ,_ J •
Xu,... _lU-ll.
The me-A.lUIt'1ncnl.,for (l.1'Jdil\~c'II('ul"ti(tlt$
shook! be u~ fron) Iht :.htMtftli\'( sicc$ in Ih~
Scm me: chart.j.e, 10. 14. IS. 22 for each of the-
llbo\~\.'Ode$.
•
CncUa: Sacs - Hi:;:h Strc('1 Fasbiou
Sm.aU =- :I.pprox. 8-10. ro,'looiunl=- 12. Ln.r!!e =-
.p~. 1... 16, XI.Attt =- tlp"roX. IS.
~tan)' PnDC'"otsin this group are :oiud In Ihis ·• •
W"ol)'. TIns ,"'Cs a 6('m gr..dc beiwecu the bust
~ild.E.x..lmpb Of IhiS t)'f'I'C! (If ~mdin& JI~ ·•
sho--n on 1Mncxll\\o Jl~lg(.~

..·s
-
,-.'_ ....-'...~....... ..... ..
n:ltt .tId Fronl ••• 0 •
,
1 mc.l\UR 6 nlm 1101
1 mr;uUft: 6mm hOt. ;!,SlIlnl ven.
l mQjure S.S nun hot. Atum v('r.
J mea.wfl> 2mln hOf 9.$nll'1 vlolft
~6 mc...sure ISIIUh\'\!rl,
.
.. :..
, mc-oUUR.a n'm hor. IS mm vert :~
~
B
I)
mC'olSUfC .. min hor
nk"4WI'C' J "~m hOf :
:. '
•
~'l' ,• ·
·• ·
t ~SUR' J nun bOt
2 tn(':lwn::' mm hOT, 611U)l vert,
:·
3 mcasun:-9mm vert.
.. 5 measure 7nlm hor, 61nm vert.
6 ~urr 9mln ,crt. •
·
7 mca5UR:' I mm hor. 6mnl vert. :
:
fbi Kimono Rioel.; •
I fn(";Uurt' 6 mm hot.
I ~~ 6 mm hot. l.S ram vert
.
I

l hor. ven •
tne1.Wrt" S,$n'ln
I "'m hot. 17.5nun ven
ISlum
·· ;';;'"·····1····
..·..•····.. ;:1
.. mt'"ol)Urc
~ mr,,'utr I.jnun hor. l,Snun ven. I• .
6 mQSU~ 15mn) vert , I
., mGl\UR:''' mm hot. I ~Inln vert. · ! !
8 _"SUIt.4 nun hur. ·•
•• !
., nK".uurr 3 min bcr. ·
•
~:-
c-.
J
." ,\.
11 ""\ ••,
 textilestudycenter.com
168

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.,
,,
, .. .... -... . .. ...... ..... ,
. ..... .......
•
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1
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-,

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E
E

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c c
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 169
Part Three: Size and Fit
13 DRAFTING BLOCKS AND
FITTING FOR INDIVIDUAL
FIGURES

OI\A~-rIN(; BLOCKSlOR INOIVIl)IiAL FIGURES pog< 170

TAKING MI:ASURt,MliN'I'S 170
MAKING TOILES 111
[JJ\TrERN ALTERATIONS TO FIT 173
 textilestudycenter.com
170
Drafting Blocks for lndividual Figures

I)mf'lln, block, (or IU' Individual fi~Uft:1\:. \In,ptC'
qpcnlltOn UK Ihe I"~tfu('t()n\I\'f tue b~l~ic~ocL~
('b"plC'r I). but U~ IlCt:'''n:tI '"l.".lll'un:n1\~nIJIn'\t('~d
or tbe bMK' !>I/~ Chl'f'
r."e the bU.)1 nlCIlSUlc,ncill. Unle..~ du,
measurement is \'tlY llirge in proportion 10 the: rt'Sl
or the- fi~uf't.the hu;;, nlC:'~lI(cnlcnl ..h:tcrolin~ the
dn..rung$lIe. bampk bulll l(Mern =' ~uc:2:0.
"01,", Var II 'C'l') largl: bu)' or lor It 'd()l,\age(
hl,lmp' ~ek set' ~~<:118 bcJOI'¢be~inning
Ib( dr.afr
COOPYthe lij~('c:h.lrI1hQ" n bel" ..... 1-.11tn 1M
mtaloUrtm(,U ...I(hll\\'U.n normal I),,,,, (rom IhI: ~U'x
or
chan on l)ag_cII. For" bU~IIIILe IO),Scm UlC
IhOSt rtquil'l!~ (.1r II ~iJ:~ 20, ...\11 fn<.t.)utnn(nl.) )ho\\'n
,n bCiI\')' t)'J)C are Ih(l~c Iliken from the' indJ\ tdWlI
figure and then written on the ch:trt.
I, 1.!l1J _g01)l.1WC:il to Ij~1
the ~UlndllnJ me.a~U~I'MnI-'l
"'l1h(' ,sidl; 10 «lInpafC 'hem If there .. ee __Jdt
difl'eff"nCC§.the figure lIhoulll be ftmea.sumi al Ih(':SC
points .and eh«l'td 10 $01."'( if it ls h, fdCt much \\'ider
cr nAtro'\\tr rban :1ftoffllullisuN'.

_.1 SlilndarJ ComnxnlS on figvno

lnQ,.arcmcnl) mC'lI)lIn:lncnl."
I. 8t'ST IOJ.5 ICll ~wC'
1. \\AIST 88 86 l.a'lttr "',till
J. IUf'S III 11(I l;a~r llifJ':'
.a. BACI' \\ 10 rtf )8.. 38.'
5. CIIEST J1.l 17.%
6. SIIQll.IlER 13.6 1.1.25 "I&r~h
,. '.:cK SJzr .1 41
8 IlARt
9. l'OP AM.\'
••
Jl.l
9.·1
ll.~ ...1mun" ;am
10. \\MISI 11.$ 18 iJunmcr .. rm
II••\'~l.t! l$.9
21.9
26 "JI~ ... ""k
11. IIICII "1\11:1.£ II
1.1. 'APE 10 \\'i\IS'r 4.l.$ •l IonCd' *"l. •• ait Me'.1" •
, .... FROl\,' SIIOUI.1)I!R TO \VAIS'I' 46 43.9 !oalCr a6J mC'atr.
(Nnt ....
11.AR~iSC\'EDEP'r~1 llS 2.'
16. SKIRT LE."'G'l"li
11 \'AISTTO I'IIP
IS. \\AIS'rTO FLOOK
"
llJt
110
JI.S
lOS
IiruWk\! stm n,tlh

CJ.lr.&kntth
1.9.BOI)\ RiSE 32.5 30.8 Jongu bod} f1$C'
lO.. SLE£\CE LE..~Gll-1 61S 60.5 IMtcr arm

Taking Measurements
for C'~ImI-uid"nce ,I"" ,bo f\)Ul)\\'Ull,lln,lr\l(11"n~ ..nd l 11I11i. nlC'II\lItc tho ~id~'1 pan o( 1he:hipS
Ib( d"'V.t"' Olllw)lIllC "!'Pro). 21 eru (r(un Iht: \v;II~thn~ I-or h1p$ Ih:al "Iff""
I 8us. nl"'-"U", the fillurcIQI Ill" f\III~I poU\t 0( fn>m SI""dcll'd n\~"!'lIfCIlICIU(hi'" Scm btlt'f Ih.ln
1M Me(t. do nOI ilUO\\' rhc 11111010nail "I the b.tc:l. butt) see r"11t;1: 180 li~, dl~lI!i blO(k"
1 \\_1", lak( tltll. '"I!.ll.lJ\l",nll:nlfound tht _"'\I~ .. 1)11('1(\"Ichll •• nlc.I\Uft Ih.c b...-c-l. .·,dlh ISnn
ma t.c SUR!,I I~ 4"Olnfortllbic. down (ron) the neek bone III Ihe eemre b.u.:1... ~1C"..uurc
After laklng the ,,';willtmeasurement tie a ~lr'RIfinnl) (rom 3nnsc~·c 10 nrmscye,
"-'W'd tbe "",j"'l: Ihi, 3111)\Vlllhc \Crlj,c-dl nlC.l$un:tnC'nl~
to be laken act"ur.alcly.
 171
5 Chrq • mtaji.U",
I.Jo-n (rom Ihe nccl! (loint .11the
the chc:.1 7(m
/T, ..,
ftftlrr (mnl (~rm~C' to :,rnlsc)"e),
, : \
6 Should....... mea)"f'C (ronl tilt
neck 10 1he shouldcr bone,
/ , "'\
,, I
\ ,
7 'f('1t St/t ,ntCUltur"Cthe bl'~c
or neck lou<hln, f«lIl' colhlr hone,
SO.,.. ,3111ndard IIIClllllltCI'n\,1tll. +, ,
9 rap Attn,
1he:lIrnl n100l:1h~ •
;-•,
bent. tnQ~ure the'bl~J~i.
to \\ mi..
m('O\sutanl'nl
II An"k..
I..ke the "'rilll
\\ilh sJiEht C.I~
mellsure Ilto\ll'Id Ihl!
r• I

, ,•
r-,
,
I
I
/'.
I
r
,
. ., . •
I
:lDkk O\Tr ankle bone, •
11 HJr." Anklt •.• measure nrouad ,
k1just 4bcn--e the 'lI'Iklc. •,
lJ ,;\::J~ 10 \\'"b.1 , •• measure Ircm
w nret.:bone at the centre back It)
,be: .-rinG licodaround tbc \\~i$l.
( .. •,I
. 2. .
I~ Froal SbouIdC"r10 \\'lIist , , • •
tnel:SOn:'(rom the centre or
the fmnt •
"
shC'lukkt O\'C:t the hl,l~1polllll~ waut ,
~
IS ;\rm'<')'t'
m~n:mC'nl
Il\1,ch. , ' ~Ulndllrd ~ • ,
-.-
16 4itlrt lA"ft'!:Ih,. nlCllllurc ~h~
'!ok,n &tat::1hfrom the tolrh'i 111the
*..,\1 dO'l''h 10 the required hem \
kn,lh
'Ole' \t(~'lurc froln the WlnSII"
Root .., the tgc&: .Ind from 10che-.:k
lhat'hor ~bm'C or
the I1gul'Cis even. " [) \
17 \\aisl lu I·lip. standard
tne3WtenlC'nl
18 '\·.~I to Floor, • , mc~l.Surcfrcrn
"llUIIO door at the centre back,
19 Bod~ Rise. .jhe ~ubjC('t $ll()uld
sit OR a hotrd chitlr. Take the
rnc:;uurc:olenl at the side from the
\QW 10 the chair. "
20 S,"",C' ~Ib •• , pllu."Clile h:Uld
on hip !iO ,h.;l1 lbc ann IS.belli.
~1G\S1Itt"(rum WCliboukler bone ever -~-~-~~
the ('Ibcn\ 10 the \\'rit:tbolle above Ihe
bilk finger- ,• "
"",Ilsi or Indl\ldufll mC'lIl'"r(ml!nr ..
jhoukl bt COlK"fuUychecked 1I1I1Ih)\1
Ih"('II" o( JIJlnd.llrdIne.1~\ll'tnICnl"
lind lin)' ,";at dnloili{ln I\~~outltl.'d
(or 1lIc blo.:k" coin then be tlt'lIrt~"t!
I'
11 r: ...
~ r I-
ri-' 1\
Ul,nf.tb( pc!NOn·.INOIVII')UAI ..
masu~m(ntS. If 3 I'lSUr'C lilult Is \c,')'
\ I
pecnoueeed consult tbe (\)1I0,",'UI8
~""lOn Glnd"d".pt lhl' block before
maklD! lM IOIJc..
 textilestudycenter.com
172

The two-piece dress block Making Toiles

The- b.t.\k Noc1i IMJt lit pn'(<<1t,:.
chcf'((urC".t " ""-~I') to ~k.r tkm
/, loll' Inl\l ~..Ih:." ""In '~cho.:L Iht fl.

•
.... J
I \1.I"\llk .. III"C" .. en "" .... UI. up 'hC'
1011c-Io ur
I. I he ,,;\u·Pfn.'(drrt.' blot ...".It1 Ih(
lIlt,.I,I'n .'('t\(
Z. I ht: tilll(tlC'd "k.,t
bkxk Cru'C' 71',
~, "Itt: \:11I~"u:'OldonO ,mustr bkKl.
...., 1,\11,( 98)

/?11"==l , III r\\ O·PIIXE DRESS BlOC It

,, Or.lO the' C'~ filM,. bodiic¥ <&ad
iJC'C'\ (' t.l«L. ~ tbC' Ia5U'DC'lKlM
I
I on ~ '-' • .u ..nd 1$ ID prordD.."It lhe
l';\o-ptC'C'fd~.s block..
AdJu;1 ""I)I cbrnog if' YOUT.. --alSl
d.trl:r'l frem t.hc: Sl.ll'lCbrd
,I
I-.
nle~"IJ~nl(nl"Ir hip' diffff..)('C p;a,gf"
180. 1'r;I,,~f(rthe busl d:oln10 th<

. ,_
underu'ln 10 'nllke the- 61110, of the'
",hIIUldt:r\ (Il,ier dnrr. It hrk (rom
lit" \lnde'loIrnl seam 10 lhe- bu,,1 ,,",unc
('ulltlurI, ,hi' lmeClose .. ~klN'
d,"I: Ihl\ wtll "f'IC'I' tbe .... U1kknlr.
d.. rt \h"flC'n lhe d.ar1 b) ! $CM • thf
The tailored skirt block Classic tailored
trouser block
bu'l Pl"nl
( "I up lhe:
I\,kll <10mILtfC- to
"*~'* 0( tk tlU1
tQM .. lhot
,
I twn" ,oln to ~upfIOInl
I
\ 1'111 I'AILOKlcD SKIRT BLOCK
I'o( ....:p;lr~le'''Ilts at)( :&llKhoJ co
•
.~
budlCC' I he , ..dol'1:d ikin pl'O\1dcs •

:: , .... ~
beth,r Iii. ,L"It ~1\TSmore stupms 10
I.U: bUIIOI.'L... ltl.\ usd'uJ to h3\~a

, • I\ b.1);C ..km bllK:k~

, OmO tbe: block I~C" '7iit_ Separalt

-
•
•, Jt the side JC'~"'_ Add 1.5cm fbft' 10
,
II \, I
the ,KJc '\('oIim ~I lhe ...
lOin 10 hip poInt
01 tk "'-an.

\
,,
I L
C'I ,\~\I< T\llORFD TIIOl ~FR
I

1
~
,
I I
11,0(1<.
1)(Ilftthe
(ll,ll)." ')".
10:1
.. ,,-.: IAIk-red
I~ blol.L

I
" II ('\I' tl!.llthehl«", a\ ~~n In
dhIMtllIll'l, I"I~I,<,1m "11"",,n.:c ~(
• I $1:111 (110~ .. ru 1Il1~ ..eee a' nee.. or
,•
I
"l1li\\
heln ~.r ,",rl. tNu~n ilnd ~(,.~
• 1'IIt:k hllX' II.)".illot 0( In:MI_y('~
• J and '''It I
 173
Pattern Aherlllions for Fit
1 Balance
II Ik bIocl. h41ihttn d'o,'ll"IIO
J!It""".1\&I mr."urcn'C'nl, It 14111 Id~ ",0\
• ~'" it ...atu Ibc(~.re \fWdal
lPft' (.ulb. ~Imc\ 11tt)art
~I .md (be N«L ,,'" be .IIJ.aptC'd
_~~ &Jw wile .e m"dc ur onen the)"
"" nClI 10,"", unllllhC' 1f111~I" seen on
1M fiB-lire. The f.lull" tu't Itu,:n IItarktd
... 61ttn:c.wtgil' .lull tile hlOtk t" Upright figure
rorlUl«!

HlTlXG TllE TOILE

'flIIr pertOCI bcitI, filted ~ould be:
'fIIc;uarll1ht COrTU1uft!.k,..arme:nt~ :.nd
~()Cj" She shou:W shlnd ru her nernml
{('baAN poUlinn 1)11\1111) npcnlng$.

I 110"-
n..r reno- ban" fillN moukl "Ilind J
dl'-'JI"~A-"; ff(tm the- Ililet10atto.•
fCt'"IJ "1C'a ~ht,h"Ukf turn \~.)
'ole ..O) oM ~US''-1.111, Stud) the "we l:..:..=IStoopingfigure
~;lm. ihhouah the I~r~~'nIna) hQ\C'
lin 1*\"C'r.~fitl,ulVhel lillll,,,( ""IY c.-.IU'\4:
tbe lode 10 ,;~ In, Iud difl:ltlll ihe ~idc:
w.am ~ du,r.m """I)\IIC.
,_ '1..v.un Ih., II " Iht pD"lurr (~
v( IIIIt ~ lUI" aU\lnllhc'
lrJ
dnaoruoo .ad 00l ,he h,lI'"
tr
JM'Otll~
m.tUI~a
c.,
I:lr~bu,t. :.IS(htS
different

L ....... 'i::w"r
~nlw)
- --_
.......
CUl across front bkx"1r. .u bultt nnd •
I
-- - -
daN.. op:2I aMOunl ntt'dN 10 brine
r".1 _-.sttmc- cto.....10 .I_' l."OfftC'I
The ~her.ll('I.n
pcl!Jolttoa m~) be n~cd
/ ••
a' chht Of'lIu"l' """t)
Trace round Ihe: • ..._.
-""!
ne- )h._ Side bu~,d,l'l \~III",illeRlIO •
tb.la aM j~~ SC,.Jm(llRl IIr (qlud l(nSlh •
••
.,...,.."fl••,.
(lit iIC"IO\.' the- (l'(Ift' blOl" ~ti('(plalned
.ta.l"ic. Cll'C"riap (he- &mOunt ,~ be
'~rd Tr;trr."'C' rMind 1M "" ,h ... pe
fbe '* bIbc ct.r, ",II ha:"m~,ntdlkf
·
.-
•,
-....-
-
\0 lbal lbe "ad( -"C.lm\I"~ (\f (quill ,
kn,l,h

.l ..•
•
J "
,,

~t
l •
" \. -,
 textilestudycenter.com
174
SI.~I'VES ME,\SURE~Ia-,
2 3 I'ROIlI.I'MS

1 1.11',,-"Ar," • , • the ~"'C pull).

lill-July"cross ann and "nnk~ CUI
blocl. up ,-,'nlr.: 11"(lind 1IK'fCK'\ 'he'
sleeve hC:<ltl UOO\C hac&. ~Lt~polnl,
Open requited omou.I'IIIIJ u, d~m.
Itcdrt\\\' the ..~14~\'Chead fhK Incru.~
Ihe ,I~~,';; h.:ad mt"'.l3oun:m('nlso 'be
1l11nlJC)'1: i~lo"'crcd "ppm'- I em,
Iteml". the balance poinb 10 nu.1C'h

-- l sleeve.
~1(l1t" If top arm ont) is too light.
narrow the side seams to ~nSl,,(ter

j aheml ion,

J Stin, Arm ••. the sm-c sags :and ts

shspeless;
CUI bIQ~;k up centre line ;1Ind cn'Crl"Jl
requiredamcum as in dragr:am.
RedrawIhest«.\¢ head,ThK~um
Ihe 1I11."'e\C:
h(lld rne;a.,un:·mCftI $0 the
anuscye is ml$('d approx. I em. RC'll'Ulrt
bllll,nee point' "t
m,lt(.b i~C.

SI,lll!V~S FIGURE PRODI tMS

.. :\Il't"'t 11('lIdIt"1 Shor, dillon,,'
line..' l,ull (ronl s:houklcr andpeNni
thl.lI'Ci..IOU hllie (.,~ In ~kc'( h(.tid.
Slush IIcros, 1Ik.'f"t'hC'oldand eeen tl'tt-
required lun()unl rhas VIoIU
JJ'(' the
("lbC. rc.'quir.:'" 10 $1('C'\"( h( ..d
SIt'Cl"C 1'lt'lId too Ilia".. 100 muc-h
ease in the !IkeVI:' head whicb ~
SIl4h across skc!r~ he-ad llnd O\('ri:ap '0
reduce stCC\'C head.

5 SIet"1'I)ltch... the sm'e OR drug

10 Ihl; left or 10 the riPI. RanO\~
steeve Irom g:lrlnCnl :and pn at ,he-
shoulder point so Ih31 Ihr ~e bangs
~)"f'e(ill)',
I~en'u"kthe balance point, 01'1Ihe
steeve,
'rhl( UOI.'II '''cans Ihe' undc-ratm \ot':ltth.
fno\'.: c)1It 1)1' line If ~ m.lrk. ~I ..nee
poilu on 1I1ce\'~to n,.lh:h to underarm
 175
Sleeves - measurement problems

, , 2 Largearm

,
,

.....
. , '.

i , . \
I

3 Slimarm
,•
,
" "

..... , ..... ......

Sleeves - figure problems

4 Sleeve head 5 Sleeve pitch
too short

.. -.:..

...... .....
 textilestudycenter.com
176
,,~( KI 1" r~ HGURE PROBLF\l\
6 \' Ide''«"flH DCCl_ .......100
r..r 11_01)(tt,m Ilw a:a11lf1l8td1llDe
MlliK 'he b.K\ ..n,J froe. ft«th.. of
bI",.. '" '~UlrN

7 Ilithl ;'\wkhtlt' D«kllnt If\r'\ Iht

nc-.;~11,lul) lind "nnLln. &....0.1" the
1'1'0l1111lllJ h..1\.k n~""ne,,( I~ bIoc-\ th~
llnllllllU '':llulr('\!

H Ihu~l;~t(1. 1MTlltle D«l:lIM

\lru,' 1\) the t:-lItl. c;..u.wtl-~
~rln"~ pulling (romtile oed.. \\ iI.irn
bac" o«k~IIdJ u.mc .ImOUIU 10 ou.ta
cd,c or ,buulder 100 tku ~
I mc",",~C'nt maUlS die ~

8 i9 9 • ronl vee .. 100 ~

teo (~11I;.1 the front
ftcd.l&Dt- IS

l.o\\'t'l the \hould~ hne sliAbtl) a' t~

nrc" pnilu ~uldfiUIn the (ronl ft(C:t
,litlhll), "\ In Ihllffi.11'1\T ....e 1M tafM
~Inluunlflonl 'he oureredge or ~ukfc-r
ll) th~llIhotlhJc, Md~U~",,",'
.-lIi)' 1M
""1\(

~IIOlll)l R' HGl.RE PR08lL\lS

10 ~~r~ MMIu,,",
f,,'m "ulef ~clVkkT
_no"'" rd
st.'" .,m ..~C' h) ned. p;Mat., ID
dWi".lrn Ind opm rTq1UR'd .uDOUIlt
1t"1~ under,lnn ~ Ib.oltlite:_na<)1'
mCo&i!oUI'(nlcnl \1.1)-' ,be- NmC. fiII!j(
b••III eeeIn..r~s.
If \hfluldrr, ,,~ \\('11d('\-c.1op:d t«p
orl$lullll'nn~Yl: .Ind raise ),",'C br:.d
(n:f ~ pt'@-: 174),

II Slop'nl Sew..WC'n •• sat tiacs

oaPP<'" III Ih~ ,.do or :l.flPSC)o.
s("Jh arm,..')c 10n«L pomt as UI
dtjiJNm. """ft.p ~ulrcd ~tftC*ft,
• 0"('( undrr.arm j() ....... &Ilc .,...,...,..,'"
mC'a)ul'tmtn, rfmllin. thr sa.t. IoIIIon
h.t1.1ft\:C mol.L,
12 13 11 lutl't'n hbouWtn ahc:r nnt "Kit'
uf WI"nrnl 0111)

I~ l'rn,,,hlt'llltiNt" ~houJd""
WlUnlenl (lull" .1~rOS~the: proal1OC1l1Irol1'
,h('luld~rhon~
....
~1.1"llIl'nl"")( IU n«t polDI .a.'\
tJklJ1Iln,. ore-a n:qUlmJ L4C
I.
R.I.... h<.w .. r r..... ~ tIqIol).
 177
Necklines- figure problems
6 Wide neckline 7 Tight neckline

NO' Itl)lIl
"'"

8 Back neck too tight __ "

9 Front neck too loose
,

."" ....
Shoulders - figure problems
10 Square shoulders 11 Sloping shoulders

12 Unevenshoulders 13 Prominent front shoulders

 textilestudycenter.com
178

14 1I01)1{~ F1GI.RE
15 I'Ronl ~'lS
"(t\' ma""~t\ sJ:to.Id bt
,"-'Ofm;t .. , tM h&oct _.a~dnflCd
to Ind" 1'11 ....1~l\. The
... Ill h.J\~to bt ..."..'IN
~Iltrtll'l
un the dmi bk>d rt .. .aJJl Ma
lIlO"~r, f'(lm the- SI.. ndanJ

14 Ilfllh UI.I'" • S4fiUn and

"I '"~I~ sbO'AotCRm high bu\.l
..... \ ~
" lint'.
* Iu,btt
.-...
,;;;;;- • ~ .\'1•• r.. 'II.. " rouat 111
p
..... 1('\(1required. mInrw dut to lh.~
rC'nnl

I 15 lA. ~~ •. 6bncQpoa
norm,,1bust __ omd paJh .. Qn
point )1 ..,1 ~npoiDl at 10.'(',
Ie\(t R'~UlmJaad red.". 4brt eo
16 Ihl.) pomt.

16 1101161'1 C"", . ,he'rllhrtc

!ll'a~ IICTUt" the ChM lar\"Ol
the4~lIftl 10 be-
1)(.lcrn1lnlll
r"",o\«I • ~cr (ronlO«'Land
",huuldC'1 fIO*nt 'hK :anaounl
Rt\lr.w. na:k lee, JouI ...
,houldcT ~l to OUk'f ~,
"'II'" luw
17 l)o•• l.tr "_, .. dduul~
""nIp unI~ b:Kt J*Oi Iht (;ltmc
17 11("1»>:the "IP ~k bDC'~ bodK\"
,ISCII 1Ip '"tbe biKL If abe: Ibot of
I'
tho '\11.11'" eormat, dnlr, ~L.
10 II iUln~'lfd b;ltk k.n,:lb .tnd
nllt,""th("~pcciaJ :a.tkr.llion LilI~r
SI,a\h deroo;;" the b:!gh b.xt L.nc:.
open up the ~m.oloUll ~t.Dted_
Str-AI,hltn b.ar;k .;am 10 ~
1 poquoa.
\l"ftK .... tlus ,.iIIlL1tc- •
v.Kkr \houJdC'r dan Tract round

""I"'"
1I001(L Mf \SL RF\lF' T
1'N,t)nt.f ~IS
,It 1..,1C«' UU'\t fa"rK' ~II~
b\!'ll'hf.aml
lu:r~~\_~ n~ UJ'111
~\lIIU\!fronl If 6.u~" II b.tuc:
":lIlIltlrl '1/r (\~J't r""
LlI.rJ< bl.l\l.
thr:...... 1,;('
i.1(l1(\ " "-'" .mollle,.
Illt(tlIill)n Sl.ash bodaor ~"l'r1tcaU)
1l1l~horvunt.alt)". opca thr
amount n:q1iU1'C"lil TIau • ..u
(nt."c but. ADd .-ant cbru.
 179
Bodice - figure problems
14 High bust 15 Low bust

16 Hollow chest 17 Dowager hump

--~ ,-"'---
If'.,
'_
...
, , "", "",

Bodice - measurement problems

18 Large bust

,
•

, 01" I
."'"

•
 textilestudycenter.com
180
SKIRTS - "ROUSERS OR"-"5 BLOCKS

p-
\\ "'fOC ""(j<t-1O.,.,
I MEASURF.M~NT PROBLEMS
'''~ and \\,;11,1 sizes 5hould be ceerect ., 1M)
~It" drllnt.!d In il1dividllal meltSUmTlltftl;,"'"'('Pi
o."
""' the stendard hlp l)lC,"l.Ircmcnl,. and ......_I.~1
.""plng Oil "II: tJ,~·jo"
bl(I\:" used (or d'fi~ and

I ! jllcl;clS.
20
I 19 l)""~ IlIcK:Io:OI
"~II_I'
.."
j Dllrl.1lldJu$1 t.!;lrl,. 10 me ..:turcft.lC_OI~

tllU.. .-mo'.nt......
(j!(I\lil1!d
;
'
,..,", -- requncd keeping (he ,haplnl even.
Illp' /(u~l'r (II' ,llllllller Ilttut jrl)nJr.,n/ cut up 1be
limeseam of the dre), block. ~..ork
difference between your hip$ and tbe- slllDdard
0101' the

hlps rcr your bust Size. Add or $ubtr.!C'1 cee

~ qu .. ncr the difference to bJC:Jc:bloc:L aDd one
quarter l]l(' difference to (mnl bIoc:.lc. from
hipline IQ hcmllue, Shape in to ~ """3.IRPOlftL
N(lte On d\:sign:o \\'h.crc: lhc: P'ltlctn ba) no side
K."1'I. cC)llIple.ICthe design th('n d6lnllulC' thC'
diiY'C'rencesevenly on the panel lmes,

- - 21 20
pull
t",,::e
'H,'roSS
Iluuockll Ot .\bdon~ ., "ptnle'n'I'
the I1gurc. drill ~tthe crutch m
tmllloC-r.., ur.I ~klr' heln will rl)C at eeeee boIc:k
or ccutee r'Olll. Ahhtlll£h hip i:i.lC' it: co(r~' III<'
g:arnlt'nl may dbten bttau'f( Ih< ,h:lPt' of ,be
n,ure 110'UIC,'I)JI,
j-\dd ,~uil\.'tllenlllh to thl:' ,,,<ntre blK-l. or centre

._ (rollt \\'I,llIllInc .IIUJ:Il crutch on tmw.tCr,

t~1(,:ll'utc (entre bacL 10centre r«tlli ~1"C'l'1l
qll.J Ir Ihl: gtlrn,cnt )Ijll dUlorlJ QlfiI ""KIth
eau bt in)Crccd by..1~lshina the p;t'Icm \'('tlcl~
and opening 11$ $-ho\vn. Tht'S \\'1IIIl\'t a l;aIier
hip measurement. but an CIl.SicT 6100g pnncnl
i$better for nn ebvioes figure Iaah
22 ~'tJtt Al1UJ sec "EII$C in the Nd- match·, ~g.:"
\ 128.

SKIRTS ANI) TROUSERS FIGURE

I'ROUL"MS
21 'I"hi;::hOul~t'•. ~tru~1'$ or $kin puUUi."1'OSS
Ihe thigh Hue.
SI.", .nJd N:llllin:d :lIUounl 10 \lde -eam (ton,

. \ this,h to hem, shape the lme 10 tOUC'h""3u.lhne

IU norn'(tl pt'lll\I.

,,' '..... r"'I/-l,",11Idd (''<iUIf'elII,mount to Ih'lh" II ~Inl

I 0",\\':1 line from ,,'al'" Ihroup potftl I Ie)
touch knee pOilll.

22 S-. jlY 11I1c:l:

or Ilrllnl • INIJ\(t1 or s\.In ....,
JUjot below \\'IIi.';I,
Reduce Iht '\\'IU~IIn blp'l~n'lh the' rcqUIR'd
.,mounl nt eentee bllC;k er ((nit'( (ronl
 181

Measurement problems
19 The dress blocks 20 Large buttocks or abdomen
~ VNI!.:.I.,p ~

, (' ~

,./
~
..
"
,_ -....
- 1- --- -- - - Extra amounts
...............,-r-1
•,

,.
,
,- .... ..... -{..,
- --

-
-'
... ,,,
, ',,
,-~,,
,, ,,
I ",.:.
- -- -
I....'
.....1

,
,, ,, Skirts and trousers - figure problems
,, , .---.r--
, ,

21 Thigh bulge

•,
I
r
I
,,, ,
•,
,
,
,,,
\

, , •,
, I

22 Sway back Sway front

r- ~.. ..

-
.....
 textilestudycenter.com
182

Swayback long back FITl'ING ONE·PIECEDRESSes

~r "...
~
V'
,\NO JI\CKETS
I.)I'\!$~ nnd ):u:kct$ ..,thout
tIC Ihl: v,llt'ilhnc
II scam
$(ln1CfU'\cs' f\"CIUI(C a

, , , :<pcti:11Jlhcrati()Q
a"uft:
1'1u\ I~ .. he'll the
ba(l.. or Qlft\C'NI)
-, ,,
hll\ :1'""II)
-, -, 1\ lonw bou:llo;flllh In I~ eemre al'(I
, ,
or the body ~t\\ccn buMaad 1'1I~
,, ,, S~"YIJIt('k Thedrc~'or JKL-tl~dl
,
,, I
, , ,, ~\vinghUD the b~(" of the 6pf"C.
~---- , - -- ,, •
,
-- 1 ,• -- - ,
,
(l)frri'I"'1I1 ~1('~urcrront aDdtuck
leni,thtl 10the Roor 10 "oJ OUIbo"
, ,, , much 'he b::lcLmaul be ta.scd CUI
,, the puuem across the ,,1liSt.li.M and

""" ,
,,
,, .... \
overlap the amOUD110 be rnno\'Od.
Draw t1 \~I'li".al tine on ~ new. piece
of paper; place 1.'1«" and b<m of
:dlcrctI panem lO thts-lme. "Iraee
tl)und p.lllcm. R.t;,;h:.fIt't~ side-
~~:1I1lthe same ;lInount Ih;al iJ ;lidded
I'
'y;J"
I'
\ \ " by the distoftlon lit the- eeetre rock

,..., -- \ \ Yr I.(lill: llnc:k TM dms or }.I(:"('I "IU

- )-
~\'ins 11"'1)' (rom the bolek of tlk'
fisure.
- ~l'" -- 1\ _ . ('(I"I"C111)11 ""r;I\un: rronl ..net
11'1I1t11h\ 10thl;' door 10hnd out hn"
~t"
nluch m\I.)~be Insened IntO I»c:k:
f- Il.'nlilb. {'ut p.lttcrn ilLthe .....,'llIOC

tw._. totol,1rI ....... / •,

••
1111(1
op;'l'Ilhc n:qUlmJ IIn.aunt,
(l'hll ..'C11pic\:'.:or paper undcfm'alh
the Jlauern Ilud pm to lbl.) to hold
,, •• the OJ')cnit11in pl;u:t.). Om "
verllt:1I hee on ill ncv. psece or p"pt'f:
•1 place neck and hem or altered
,
, 1
•,
paueru 10 this line, Trace round
· , pattern, ;-\tltI to ludc M"-limtbe same

- --
•,
, --
1
1
•
- -
I,.."
-i~----r---- 1
amount that O\'\:rlaps t.h<. cesare
back seam,

•
.' =.J I
.' J
THE 8U)("K l'ArrFRN
\\'hnllittlfl' the tollc. pin the Ilhernl.ani thaI are A block pauern ~h4)uld be m:lll~ in c;a,d Of ~tron¥
rcqUIR'd 'ti1rk on liI(l h)llt lin)' In1otrU\!tion) >ou n«d; hi""'" ~"'J'IC'
iai II \\'111be uS(d man) limes. Some
tm.rl. ",Ih .. !"'nCll.N(lIt$ 01' bil$ of p.lp.:r ,,~on~ <tudrnl~ ",~rcr
bloc)" ".II(('rn$ ~ut out 10 ~rd)o() that
ml~L'KI LhC') can trace round lhcm; olhC:r) pf't(ef In h;;n-e them
Ant'1' r;ull1g the toile "II the IIhCrtllfon) mlljl be' d~" n on ,I (lkeC of P:1,~f 10 .....11«1'the OIl,lIne (»111)
made to lhe block pauem. l.:or "cr)' dlni('uh a separate sheet underneath.
.;KIJGSUncnt!t. alter the block. alter me lolle lind re-fit
10 cOSUtt' Ib'lt it OtS pcr(('(lly.
 183

Part Four: Computer-Aided Design

14 COMPUTER-GENERA1'ED
DESIGN AND PAT1'ERN MAKING

USINO CAl) IN CLOTlHNO MANUI'ACI URI, _18.

1)F..SI(iN AND ~11\RKETING I'"
I'R()OUtIIO~D..\T",\ ~lt\NAG~1l!N"r 1116
I';\"'ERN CREATIONAi'D ~'IOOI"'ICA'rIUN" 187
SIZINO AND MAOE-TO""IEASUI(E 191
P;\'J'-ERN GRADING 192
LAY I'LANNING ."'-'~D
~1ARKER-~1AKIN(~ 195

184
USING CAD TNCLOTHlNG MANUFACTURE
\\'bm compulC't ••ndccl dcsillil (C,'AU) v..t.._, fir..,
bUbhj.hC'd In cWllung InllllUn,cnlrc. h ~,It\\oct')
c:-cptfttt\'C lind could Ihc~rol'" only be bou,ht b)
La.'F con\r;ani"- The r'lli pr(.'u."t.;sfmln dtSl,n 10
m.nvf.ac1unis u~u~lI)'au Inv~tln~rum.rdeb) :.
m:;uw(:acturcr ,,110 rnnkes t1 PlIflicuhlr type:'or ,annen1
In brge qUIIJUhtn.. J 1~w.·t\4:r.:cnHIIi (on1p.;ln~ C.,Jn
btncfil from po.tueu'ar CICIU¢IIISor C,,\ D. The
ddl'c('("ru pflX't'S.SCS of CAD C;IO be uf g~allld\;wQ~C
Design and Marketing
Tcdmolosieal ad\"nCt$ durin!) the 1990shave
prodUCX'd ~otulionaJ)fcbtlnges in ,,-cmmunicalton.
The l.ft:t~ linl.:$ 'he difl'cl'tlu $t'Ctl'11'Sor the clDlhinl
mduul)· !and halt become t, vim! l)lltl or m:anr
compan,"· (JJXrallon~ The Internet can hnL the
IksifDtf with (ahnc Ilnd trlln'llins "SlIl)pltCf"S, the
pnncnl munurl:lCIUrerlC:lnd the reuliltrs. man) (If
~htC"hc~n be' ()\(,f'IC.lI\'
Tbe _'(lm 'dcllia;ncr' if :l brnnt.! dC".)(nrltlon IMI
4~'('N man)' dln·C~It1(unction" i he nt'(";1il desl,""
1lLI) C'O\"('f can 111t'~ermlll the prc-di ....tii,n or
~n('NltOn or IIII!"Ilt,I.t ~tlliO":~ fanac 10 (Mllern
\'U1lln,aOO n-~POI1)ib"'I)' n,r the. Ilni"hl."\I &o&mrk..rhb
h~ 1.0be- ma-led in 1111 Si1'-'$,.,.ith ~llay plans,
«WIn" :.nd n1:.nuf:II:IUnlll? $1')(C"in~:",IIQnj,. A d¢)illkr
'*
In a liI~ (Omplln) may lI~i ...li/'¢in I'Xltlie'ulllran:~
;and be pan or a team, \\'hilsl in 3 \'Ct)' $maIJ compolD)
a dt9,pcr m:I>'ba\c 10 Ix:tform (,IIlhc :.tbo\'cl.~
I.
The introduction or CAD into comp;..n) "ppt;\1"$
to b3\""C tbe effect or incmI.sing tbc di\,ision bC"t\\"U'Il
the ~miion of $lyle.t;~nd p;..lItC:TI) c:ulling. P211C1'tl
("1,I1UO$ is l!('t'n in~~I~'ng:I)' :'1$:1 1\.'(hniQl rachtr Imn
-ll design process. ,\'hen It company ,ldoPIS n('\\
rtebnoic)sy. 3 dM~;on often OC:CUI'S bcetUSt dirfeteftl
I)~ of ~fi".~rc: pI'()S'nlnl~ h~lfhll~Sl'lIphlCd.;!.tlllin
6ilTcn:-nl _""aY'"
1IItuxln,( pNIg""t!\ mnnipulall;" .he d.111.tuSing SCrffft
pi'(CIi. ~ pmFtl'Im\ (,t(: ~sc:d for id~ gcncflAtion.
"'Of") bootrd, iUustfullon and Inan), forn" (If 1('\llk
"-»,a. Tht Mlfl"~rc CIIiIbO',-'r n'lIch 1I"('001CI
Ink"CntllOn bc.t"ot'n rabric: lln~1aurnltnl dCl-lfVl,
ofTcllnt nc. pO\\lbilhicj 10 Ihe d~\i~nef 1\ n('.
J("ncQi.on or d('~I,ncllf ill ttlleralll~rrom .he I."OUC'at;i.
..00 nwn)' or .hem fC(l1"'\)ltlfOrtllbl~ \~ ith the
cfCbnoSol!): tbe)' "·ill unduubtedl), inC"tttllC the
mUfMnCumof It,. .1PI~ljC'lIcion. Ct.llnp\lccf1I. thclt
textilestudycenter.com
10:' complul)': Ihey cnn IX'd~n~ under lk
(0110"in, ht"ldll'~:
• OC'Iil;o nud ~11U'kcliIlD
• P,oducllol\ 01\11\~hln;Jg\!ttlc"1
• Pilltel'n Creation 'Ind ~1udlfl<.tl)()n
• SiZingand ~1adc·lu·l\tl':lsu~
PIlUcrn Or;uJlng
• U.)' 1)1;lnning lint.! ~1:lrkf;t·tIot3klnl:
~,:ttcd "C.llnner$"nd printc~ 3nd ~e ~rl\\atc
progmml> arc 110\\'r.:lutt\ ely <:h~..p and llff"oiJdabk even
b) \'C.I")' SlnaU cornpanle s lind Ireetmce desiJOC'f$.
So(t\\rlll'(' pl\)Smnl~ thai ,\'Ork In \'cl)' hi£!!
1"C'3011I'IOnan: now :lv'HI~lbfl:.'rbt} produce h'lh,
qU!lht)' line OUtput nnd phclIo,naphec- Imal<'-- Tod3~'.
(:I\hion ceulilc:rlldc:nlani.lll fa"l t""$pon~ lhe
~'lInlaG(" of nunHf)'inJj dr:I\\ln, .... nd pnncln, them
wnh \i.lril\li(')l\$or cillnur ned p:lllcm ..t'C" Ihcft'forc
ob\'iour.. RCI\1iICN lUll!.:"Allin)' dtd"lonJ (rom \lnual
rab,," und \'1I1Ull1~.'ftnl:lll" CI't.II«ib) 20 ~nd '0
l(:\Ulc lind drul'ICj:)ro,runl~ \\'(\\'(n. knll.cd Of pnnted
r.tt~ can be rt.lhtl'tl on 3(1\X1l ,lAd ptlnlcd b) inkJ(t
princcr$ onto fllhri~sfor inslant ~mpbnl CoUtt'IN,n$
can be \-!.»U"UI.¢IJ b>' mllppln~ ("btl(.) ontO ~1.('Cd'lCi
flnd ph(llograph~, rhus (tc'.luin.: \itlu~1modris and
R'dueJng Ihe amount or sampjes eeeded GKb fC.O!I.50D.
The 13rgc tlnd nl(;diunl $fte con1p;1ni(-1. Ih:.t <uppt) the
muhip.c I'tlal1cl'$-"em' sec paint '):i-kmj.:» ~n ~nl,:.1
demeot of the ('"rly scJection sw.gC'So( lbc: design
proc<$~
f\N' dc,·clol,mcnls in ,-11lwal rt.:.alil) :a.rc '"""ling
moving modell-lind clcetmnioC"las-hion shcwo"io or
\.,.nu31 store dl!<pla~. It is now pos,nble 10 1t«U$
\'inual ",odell! onlinc Ihruush the Inl('tn('l antl.SC'C
Ihrm ffl:~nl:111angles .1' the)' ,0t;ltc In real tinlc.. The
pnncnt ilnl'lSc C:UI~ ~·nll!pp:d wuh lift) o( 'bC'
difl'c!'tIU (.,brl",;: sho"'" on the s,ct'ffn
I'ullrrn (""UIN /ll"fJX'""'\ .Ire b~~ 00 \«ton 'hat
tcs,i)lcr and mllnip\IIIIIC the daulln tM k"")rmor
ml!lhc1""lic:.11 to'l)rtillll'tl.'lC. Ie 1I.1k("$lime: '0 bc<'omt"
",,-"'"1«1 In \\'0'''''15 l.'I.)I1'))lIlcr prol"'~m-...; ItKn:ro«, ::I
cho.ct or Chn:Cllo1\ ha' 10 l)( Made: land lbctt W
b«omc " direct dl~llntllt)n btt\\~n tbe do!pKf. ftO\I,
"'<t'na~ II ~t>'listfU!lifllt in.(/.~t"i:I'rot,unt" • .and l.he
~t'(mc,nltr
 185

A 21) tilor)'bollrd incorpomllRJ

CAO imIlS~~
In~II\)'
/}hlJlogrllph h)' prr,,,iJ.flo,, 0/
(I~'(J,('Ill/Un/I'r

l)rftJ)ins {I ~urnlcnlim.li< ",ib II

fabrit hnaac:.
/'/ttllogrrlpll\ It)' parn,iJ.JltJn oj
jVl'tl (J rtfI''' I rs

•
 textilestudycenter.com
186
Production Data Management

!)1U(kn'i enlenn, Ihtlr I'lr'ildcsl~n pO~IIi)n

i*~ ~n('" .,1onJ,hcd It! the lunOl"n or
dO(Umcrtt;alton lh:al 1\ requltC'd rrcU'Ilthe
6tSl&ft(f OrpnlJ'Jltloli j" cenuat te the
docsilacr', \\'0'''; rlt;orouJ l1otlllh)n of dc:'loign
st)h r.otbncs. tnmnungs and speclflcatlcns art
reqUired
l~tOdt,K'uon d!1la n"ln(lgeMenl Cl)D~'r)
son ....tare control~ the whole production process
of lbe £.armtnl. The prcducnen (),(JI: of ...
ptmCftI rtqUIte$ ecccrate infcrmauce lh:'1
am be aeeessed by all the depanmems in the
comrun~' A PD~1SySlcn) eliminates the
rtpclillon of identical inf()rln:Jtion heins
processed. The infonnalion given by the
dcsigoa- on C3cit )1)'lcfonns rhe Ioundatlen fee
1M U)~ 10 lQ\'(1 thrall,h the (1!IIflh:l~:ISiI
("ftkf"( Ihe
production ,,·yele.'I'he- SQn\\.I~ ...1tV4~
""U
~ulhariud users 10UIXCliS nlad,')' the -'
si:clmN ar phOl0&r.lpht: Ihe p:.u(rn, silinlll.lnd
ma~u~mr-nl ..: the r:sb(I~,Ilnln~ Inlc,(;1I,';IO&;"
and Irtmm;nl~ Infol rumlon: Iht: 11I),.p1.lnand
C'O'(.IIntokulJ1110PIO, I\swRlhly il1i,ltUCllon~Qnd
m;t"ln. up protaJu(C~ l~xtell\.11'1,:111, n'.I"c I.1nd
"ICO' (Klbilib ,n other r"el,'rl~1I~ll1dother
souJ'Cln,ln(OtmJlhfJtI can Ill~()be IJIO«~, rhc
In(orma'iion c..n be eenstantly upd,IIt.-d, \\;lth
(\('I)bod) being In(('Ir-nlc,lln~lunll)' IIbuut
l'l'Iodi6c;.;alioaa.

---
- ---. -
..., ..
....

_:... -- --- _._._

,

-- --- -
l·~ m,," " 1·1)~1~»H:nl~how1n
ecesvlcw, n'C"~u",mcnl dllt~lind.
ill)
construction sheet.
..

P/wIOJ!.I'(I/"I\ hJ' f'I'fl1l(J.11.1I10/ Grt~t

Tcxhllf,/og ..'
_:...•
•

...
 187
Pattern Creation lind Modification

SI'ECIIICAlION DRAWINGS MEAN~ or l'AI"n'RN I)~VLLOPM~"r

[)CS.. ~ h:l''( to fQ(Ord )1)'11:'b)' n\l:·.ln~or Dc51,ncl") 1J'toe II fl1I1Ve:
of 1\'Chnl~\I(~
\p«1ti('.;&ltondnt" In,;. 1'hi~Is p.. tt1c:ul.atl) Import.nl I ~i~C'lIillllthe ~~"'nlcllis un che:dtn.s (t..nd
(or 1M d~J!·,u ..r '""ho dl.'h:lt'111.".S
'h¢ plllt~fn 2 Dir«t nl~·.LS\ll'(nlCIU,
dC'\'dupmc-nl or II )I)'I~ 10 U 1),Utero Culler orhe' J. COft;lfUc:1JOII of 1){III\1rn.!S
by In;l(U(lions (u)-UAU)'
dt:sl.Jocr hils to dcvelcp a concise nlCan$ ef" 011'>1('\Iylcl in menswear),
("CIommun.c~hon ....hilin Iht' "i:ii$fl tCUIl'tiC\II(IIl.l\ ... Cnp), or lin t"i~tlni I"IIU':(",
"jlh the production )-1110:TI,,, u:.;:hniquc o( precise S. Ad.u.pt(JlioI1 (If n I)~\'i()"'$pallc:tn.
t«hnn.) dr.l'\\·in~.In correctpropcrticu and 6 Adaptation of blocks,
tn<.3'suremenl$..can be: uided by the use or .. comPII"''''. Some clesigncl"$uS( II Sill~e I~hnjq ue. others
The draa;", ~t'I usen be Il«btnh:ly lIucrpttled Into 2 ecmbme chct'nto aclneve the final pall('''''. 4nd ill'
first. working pattern. possible' to combine any ,,( the above mdhods with
.<\.«:urou.e 3cbpl:llions from sl>eci1ic:u.ion dt:.lWlUIS the erearlon or
eempmer-geeeened p;atlems. Bul •
C2ftbe m:.d(' or Ihe ')'PC or de"ign IlIll~lr.sttd.B.:t~k ~d:,pl';'lion~ or bl«l:') or J'lr~,'io\l')p3u.cfft$ a~ IU
seam and pocket po.!'ilions can be marked, p:attcm ....
"';lysmost ecmpanies use their pauem g"mention
pSCttS on be traced orr nod Illodifitd ~"Stcm$(PGS) ~:IUM! the), an= a means or quality
ronlml !tn-dsi:ting "Iiln{htttl~

'-_
------
AI~"Ncl))dl1l'IMg
NOW IIoOW ttl. ~
ere c:cJIOCt.heft
,,","plirod WI'"
~.

ItIcJ pan.m
, ..
...
:\y
~
(oppo$lle pooe),

i
i
Itonl .lcHIve

-
•
I
,_____----<l •
j
A t~hni"'I)1 dl\lWin,,-.Int,l the: dC'\"dopmC'fttor the: p.lu~rfl on the eonlplJ1Cr
Note bow the proportions of t.bc p;lttem retatC' 10 the dmwmg.

188
~~'~'/('. GC'rber'~1':11Ienl
Onytopmenl S)'!itC'm.
Pattem dC'\'ClopnlC'IUt,nd
mod,(QI.ons.
NtIU~'"Pb, b,l'pr"'''/If.'f/1J1I(if Gt'r~r
T«It.. /ott.
PATrERN CENERATION SYSTEMS (PeS)
The ,)",ilernS are "0\\' very sophisli<;alcd. The 'nat",....
co\ironmenf of the work table has been rcprodUCt'd
b)' w.-ori::ingon :3 digitiser with personal tools and
m:lleri3ls. The designer \\'011:$in the:same I'n;lOD«
manual polliem culling. but the lines nre recordC'd
dcc1ronnUy. Sample calico toiles modelled on the
stand or m.unu:tll)' ('UI paucrns can be traced into
the $)"$tem. refined It) n production II:\'el ned $tam
a.lkn\~ncnadded.
Althoup ~1IC'rn~ canbe dr;aflcd dir«tly on the
~n. Ihe s)"stC'm~ arc particularly lldep' at adaJuu1,
hl«LJ or modif, in, p:ltlcrn~ ~10(.:d\\ ithin the
~PUlcr. The)canperformIllllnysHand.IN palkm
mpu*twn. weh I'~ $iV,jllging darts, .ltldill5 plcatJ lind
(ullnes.,- eee. l-he)' 111~operform repetitive t:.,~.,,uch
iU addln, seam allo\\'antel. i"~t"UCliol\~ and Labl:lbn,.
Thr ad:no-Ic:dSc:d value of I'OS i$ Ih~lllhl:}
textilestudycenter.com
--.~
S)'!ilemiU' the procedure of creating an accurate
J)l.llern wuh In~tI')'~in'ilarbUI sliJhtly differin,. I)3rts,
sueh aslined jackets and coats, The- abiJiI)'IO o\'C-Tb.y
and check the pans is crucial ill this pf'OC't'SS.They can
as also assoecue parts so that any modifiealion to the
cuter garment during the dt'\"(lopmcnl pl'1XC$Scan be
programmed to occur on associated pieces. such as
the in1crlilling or lining, Some 5)':\lems (rOf' C'umpk
I~ ;&SS),"')1
sofl\\,;}tc) have 'macro,' ....heft tbe eperaior
can teach the system to perform :some dr.aOinJ:
or
o-p:tUlions that arc rcpetlttve, The \"311.AC these
~'Sl(m$ for c:omp!lnj.e'(produl:ill, ~I:&ndatdt)'pe$ of
d('~iln. for example career wear, jj n't'OInilt'd
Some or the InOte lld\"I,,"d $Or-l\\"~ (.;anptOCnln
the eomnercr w'hh in~lr\lC:lion"(or dtlllhn,.
P.ITltC"t:lr (1)'14:.l'hi~meurcd ('lin ereate poall('rn~ 10
Indl\'idulil $CISof 111('a5ut(:l'nc:",,,IhuJ cn:;Illn,
bnpol;c pauerns for individual 'ILlOI.
 189

textites, Rt~1i7.3li(lnon the dress $Isnd.

I'lrologroph bJ' pem,isskWI 0/ Lectra

,,'Ilulflus (200 I)
Compul("r..aided
tn(lk design C:~3Ied
in ~J/J/~ ~1r3.

j\'uuliht, (200 I J
mo6clScd on the slltnd
usan. digitally pnuted
rotbnc produced "'Ih
Siort A'~'bcT
I«hnoklg)'.

N~'Design Concepts: expcrimeural and integrated garment and print design.

bJ' KIJlhc-ruU' Townsend. Phol".rr.rup)'!: s/uw.-n .I,b Ik-r pn'n';SS,;Oil.
Dnlzn

8",1. there it a temptation 10 Illodif)' pn:\'iOUl Styles.
The m«'T pact' of the desig.n cycle gives Hule Span'
for inncn'ali\Y st)'ling. II is not only the creatlon of
lhe dC'iip. but Ihe lIolltcint;, (o~ljna. new prodU(llOn
proc:'l'du~ and re-toolin, or machinery '" hK'h
lII«ompancs 101:111), new concepts. ~I()~t or the
J) ,teM) ~I G"pauern I'Ilodillt:lllion or the:
d('\'Ctopmcnt of ba!IJc \Iyle, (f(UI1bloc .... or pn:\IOU,
Plllern", 11000(\.:r. Ihe a;cncralioll of il,nQ\':Jtl\C
(.uhlOn dn.lgn of comple" cut or Iabnc dfllf)C'~.utbe
:lch~~ (:arbeuer by nuuuud nlcthexl" \\h(R: Iht' 3D
form 0( ItI(: "hnpe: call be mOllified during the pa.ltCtn
dc\-dopmcnl PfOl"CSS. Ilut. the computer docs not ha\'C'
to be dismissed frorn (hi:! or :11'1)'other ..rn of pattC'm
culling. It can be USI."das a pan or
un) o( the
mcthods or
pauern dewlopmeru.
The possibilities of intcsrolina f,lbrt( des.en InlO
pattern IIhllPC (.111 be I't'lllilCd b) u$ln, dl, .....1ponllna.
~1CbIof thi~ fonu of "Jintina h:~ been uloC'd(or thc
qulltk lL.lnlpli1l8 or II-:Itlucnt.~ by c:r~,lttnl'hon Itnlll\):
of fabrtC or b)' pll~tins fabric nua,,,'1 ,nto ptmtnt
p;tl1crn ",hapc, 11000'C\ltf, n (C\lo lIc"lIln(1) arc (ft'iliins
~' concepts or 21) 1(, 30 d~jiRn. KII\hC'rinc
TO\\n~nd uses the drape manlpulatlcn aunbutes of
thc t«hnoIOj;)' 10 develop lind ch"n,e Ihl('pont thirutl:
Ik plVH'C'SSof g<lr'''t'",lleJiglt.
 textilestudycenter.com
190

't he A)lIhl vil1uullitand

whh 21) pauern pleccs,
created in Gerber Pattern
l)c~i@.li.then mal)pc:d to
the stnnd.

III'OS·)D is u prot/llet "'/

Asaht L((L. liC('Jlst'd
t'XNIl.(il'(·')' h)' Gerb'C'r
T('rllfl~)/"J!J:
IJh%grllph h)' pt'rnJission
01 Gerber "erhnnlog)'

The program V.llitCIr..r i.n

which the 21) , ..ement
pieces created in 1,lr.-stn,a,k
can be "'irtuall)' stitched'
together 10 (it the garment
on a virtual model.
/'holl}grllph h)' pt"tllwion
o/IIlI't',sIlY1l1ilYl

3D SOFTWARE rROGRAMS 1M body form. The ~ttllid or ,jtlual bod) an be

CAD suppliers ba\'e been \\-or1:;ng on tcSC."'.1rcb to
ereateprmcnl p.'IlItniSdjrectl)'on the JO d~ ~I,nd
ror dtadC')" ;\. ICJ.)1four C A 0 lilillplie~ an: ol1'Cfln,
or about 10 rclca.)( dinedng \'cr~fons or "orkin,
.. lthln a 31) cn\'ltOl'llnetti. ~'lo,);1or these arc bawd on
20 drns PlltCl'nl>,h ••I can be InlnJfcrrcti onto II 3D
body to I!i\'( 1'("Ii/a.ionl or hO\\
)land or '1111.1,11
(he m.lck·up ptmcnt "'ill look. Ahhougb the
c:h:tnclcostics of the fabric. J)tlrticul:lrly its droplng
qU3bltC:;.. ean be emercd 10 give ;1 r,,·ali.sliein, •• 1hC'
most succc» has been with garnll:nts that 61 clOS("_ 10
modifi-ed to different shnpes and sbes and SO~
pro;rums show Ihe CiISt: di~tnb.l1ion.
The: aim is 10 reduce the number of ).iImpk's
or IOIleJ.made 1I1'in the dClIi&nroom )-IO"'~"'U.
compllnic~ have 1I110\\'n linlt: cnthusm'M (Of' IhC'30
pl'()t;r";lnt~.Th!, is bct.llI!fC cxp!:rienccd dtilPC'D ~nd
p..tltem C'lItcr .., who hnve "'O,kcd "'llh piaU«TI~h..pt:S
and rabrl~ can vi.!ou(IIi'/'c 20 $h.tpc" at 3D un_go.
They are then-lore uble 10 use the eerrem 20
«)mputcr programs \\ illl i;n:at skill.
 191
Sizing and Made-to-Measure
,\n In(,n:'.'~tnJ. number of I.Ylnll):UUC':II"CIncludlns MrAtriumncni$ !Ire Slvcn, rhe S)'~lcm 'UIOm:lIK'.;J;U)
m;ack-to-mC';,\uf'l:' In Ihc:!' prr .. luC:1nnlilC' DiO"h:nl mucJificli the 1',lltem 10 the new I'IICil'UfC'mrnl", :'\01'1'
ckm('nl~ of the CAl) Jlr'~'ts~ have Intuit chi",dlR'ClN)n ,t:J.nd.JnJ :.dJulllnl0n,s (';10 be 1l1.lde In p.attern dtlip
(C-4'lblc.\ta)~u",olnj7Jtlinfl o!l','j1;not oilly II beuer iOn.llk, An)' Itllln~ Of ltll('rhnin$ ptCt'n 1Ir'r
fil, but also It \\ld('t choice of style....r.lbrics. hnl"1;'" pil"a.~ ~u(_b a .. pock"lt.
IIUIOln .. lK-nlly 11<UII~tcd; 11111(111
I-"d Inmmlnp lind ('(.lIl1r~ rately ntell UII)'ndJU'iln'(Rt.s. A loa) pl..:11 j~
ron).lfU(,led ror the Inudifled I).JU(fft. this B !ll:nl
THE. PROCtSS dln:cd) to ;1511181"-111)'
cutler \\'hkh cutl,nd....adwal
The: f'I~ he'p",: ""Ih Ih~ (U:Iol(uncriLInta(uh:'~l~ ~rmcIUl\ :.1high 1I1X.~d
bcln$ t.al.cnmli.nulllI)' or by 3D $t':tnnins s)'i1<Il'I"
whICh ddinc nOI onl) uie mettsurClncnts 0" the. NE\V SO..-r\VARI! OE.\ftilOPi\1E.NTS
CUSIOm(r.but also tile 6b:tpc in the form of :, virtu;aJ The dan.n,d fur mnde-se-measueesofl";Jrc ~rams
figure v.hith cen be «loll'l:nuly updated, has led ICt tIC\V v,'1ly,)uf dC\IC'IOPIR'tbe m,atht'm;a;lb of
f~ricsand styles can be selected \\·ithtn a store pauern construction. parametncs, The pauems are
or \U the Internet, Once the style is ~1..ected, tM constructed and defined b)' :1 stt of dim.cn.Oons......iUcb
tll,tlocner-\ mt'3l.urtmeftl$ IlI'1!C(ln,p;J~d 10 abe ~m.1 Oft then be Inodifie-~ b)' typing in new mQJUretn(lll.).
sr« of panern stored in the system. A second b)1.'1" If ;J:poini -is drJ.g£ed by the IUOUse.. the $)'1tc:m
or p:tdc rules is then LlM!d10 cover most b.l..~ K'C'JIlcullllClithe eutire model aec:ordinsl)
\Vht'n n..~
lIh'd'J;lions and \llrialions In hod)' ~1!III~.

t\1t'.I'(Ul'tlnents taken by bod) st3nruns,. And st)'lc 5eJeelitln (or made-to-measure,

Phl)/(JgIYIJ,h b)' ~r"rWIt),'4t/ L«1ra

192
Pattern Grading
O\'I;RVII;\V
(;nad~nll~ eee or Iht rn'lin n:1I~(ln4,\\ h) eomr-'nlC.i
bu) .. CAD s)\lI:m. II \\'111()O(r them 11101'\: '1Pf'Cd.
ok"C'Ul'J() and ron,l\tcncy in !iilln~ their patlttnJ ,b"n
trUl'luaJl)' ,,..dln,llu:_111. AI\cr tile 5"lnpt~ <ldlln h.:u
been accepted and the retailer h,IS plllccd au (lnkr. tbe:
,..nnC'", h.Olt,10 be prochll..'<:din 11rllll~c or ,\VCl'. ~tc.Mt
I..uJ<:r ecmpanies are gtlldlng 1);'111~'n!S by CAD.
P.tlt~ created "..thin I·GS can pass duttti) mlo
,he ,r...din$- seclor. However; SQI1lecomp.ltli.:$ IJ$in,
CAl) .)y.)lcm~are still c\lulnS pattern$: m:.nl,l;).U_).ThC)
ba\"(' to input ttKir patterns b)' digiti-ang the ecmear
(see inus!tolion ~ISt' IS$).
In order 10SCIthc Inff)rnullion 10 (c)n'l"J'uet ;mdl:d
peuems, the' following sources an: used:
• S,!? ~hans(II /hlJJ' UIP{I-\lIft1J1,enl1
Gd/lnMI J.pt't'ijif"tllilJlI,1
.""n_lI,. n('J;/NI,IfIIU"t1,f
(i,UIk rw/c'J; pr"~kINI bJ' :fIlillt' C'/ID !1l1pplk"h
Ct)ftJ ihJ: ~I'tld.'fIf HilI " /'1'(',(/'''/)(1' j!ftJ(£;>(/ .chili/fir
ptJI'tTn ~Ilapr'. "hln Ihr ,).\1.'111
1'he ,r.tdlnIJ or P!III(I'n, by 1110$1CAl) .)"Icm:s IS
b.l-S<'d on IJenllf)In, where sl~ll1c I)oint'l on Ilk
palin" h.1\-eh" be> cxtended or reduced to ereare ~
~ 'IlCo Tht')(' POIIU~ 111"'!I(lved by X lind \ CC)o
ordJn.tn "hl~'h leillhe CI(IIIII}Uh:rIbe Jil'tcti(ln 0(
$i\'cl1 to
mo'IOl'Icnl~mCJI.~urcml·I1I~:l1\! idclltlr} tbe
~'tOn or thl: ncw point. '1 hi~ (,'o·oNlnlllt mO\Cmenl
tJ k~n asa ,rude rule,
bach.Il. t2AnClI.
fUllY 111111'10blOek
textilestudycenter.com
('AI.CUI,.i\TIN(; A 'i~"DI, RULl
Gr:tdc rule," orc usually l..'IIICIJ~lh:d10 onc~lcnlh or
a mtlllmetre, The :.IInOIlIlItJf ml)\c:rncnlln tht X
dlR'Ctlon I.. \'0 riucn lin-I. (oll,')"I..'d b) tbe Y dlr«'l.on,
t-:or C''tumplc, dIUmovcmem or Iht ~OUkkf pernt
MI\\(,(11 sbcs 111-4n1n1Iu')"1:00I"II) and 4 nun
\'trt.rJIUy ('W:I.' dillgmln),
nle grade Iute 1."1111 be wriuen in on~.\(fIlh or "
mllbmrtre (e.g.. -10 40) or In cenumctres (t"..!- -0.4 4)
O,4tnl).II is the in:lolruclion u.c~s:a mn_'e C)( si«s.
Inconsis'C:I'I1smdes 1)\::'"'('('1) sim ("011'1be tq)S1('rtd
The same grade rule: can be used tal ~y point thai
rrquiRS the same grade. On-cgrade rule I.i wrmee as
tctO (00.0 00.0>: It ill used "here no;:r.t<k is ~uif't'd..
Companies often c.. kulate many or lhe: ndc:!.
din.x:'ll)' (ronl "izC'Ch:I'ISor garment spt'cificalion~
Ho\\'C'\'cr. manuotly BnutC\1 'nC5IS' or bIoc"~ean be
1.I~d, n,e 1Ie:;stil' 'stacked' on one point. USU;llU)'on
lhe armsc)c !;h~I'thline, the dil'\."'C'llOn~ o( the: X :.00. Y
co"()rdin)tc!I .:an: r(~jslcrc,,'d ft(lm thi~ polnl f...ch
gr;)dt'tl poilU on the uert ~lhc"Clin: bc',lnnlnp ;lind
ends or lin~tI41nd,~pc<:i(lepoC)inl'l.I e. contlOl point) or
nou!h('~)i.lC mc~~ul'td,l'hlo:m\'O'I,lImncnIS ~ft'C'h«l;('(l
"'th v.adinl-l inc:ttll'~I1I~ 011~LC chit'.,
Gmdt' nllrs~.ln be: copied from olhtr p.tllcrn ..
r.lltct'n .. \, hh ~mdt: tul~!j all.lch('(l ('..10be modalK'd,
and Ihe.c.csnIde!! wlll be n:IUlnL'CIon tbe nt:\l "~'Il'.
IflOUldor pOinl grlWo
,,
~ (malJnliloo)
"'" gn!ode- 11'1miBiltlilltCS
Silo 14
.•
•
v v
.._
back.y. '2
Gaty fllt."O blocil.
 193
GR \O~ Rl LE LIBRARIES
\ ,t....-cd"'lie.. lhot ,r.idt- points. \\he'n Itt< fI'*bc', I"
,*, ..
IIIhrilt'} i( C'Ompilntor numhotR"d11"*

.rf'iItc'd: ttl • ",""I. It..111 optrll'c lhe ,,-.dc' See

d.... AM C'rr- ....IC
rhe """'Mr of 101ft', lhe 'I/C ~rt~k, ~l'kIlhc....~
",f Ik '\.I/~ hol\e to be- entered nUu the' I\r''I,.;m rb(
" ..de: Rlk-\ toethe " ...nt:rn lite:then I)pttlln I" ~","I('
II liN"'" (,.,Ih.lt 1111'(r.tns!:,
()nc(o the 'U~ lur" block or pattern lire(nlel"«l.
an) \.anl.LlI,or .d.plt!d pattern calli 1.I1~1be ".uJed
u~n. lhot 'lime V ..d«, However,fc" rolu~rn~&lR'
("Yeti) Iht \1m" "blipc'. This .nCllns thai new ,,..
roan tunC' tC' be a..kubr,lt'd by the grader .nd Ibt:w
"*'~ k» ..... vade ruk libror)

" .. _--
l:O.I.6"IiiI. , ...... ~
......
" I
~ .. -
D;:g
-
sar. "a. M4 ..... x~

,- ..~.
',-:I
-- -
"•
• ••
••

,
- .. -
t:.'~mpln. of the M."'n."CIl displays of the Input or \VCj .tad grade rules.
B) "".'njj.'~hIntif (iflfh'r T.>r-hllllfl}Jl)'

C!4"_

DI(;ITt'I'(i PAn LR!\S

It. P*fltfn hA~been Nt m.tnu.ll1)II hoi' to tic
dl"'~ Into the ")lt~m The p;1I1<rnI' pl...,,,,d un the-
I

/
0
(!J
8
'(.i) ~
-

€
e
e
I

dlll"\Cf .fMJ ItI< r;11t~rnprofile I"(nleml'Rlo I~

,:(IomrU1tfu...nl( t1 (u~r. The Co<e,ure of the (UN"\ 0< ,...
'h.~\ h.j,,, " placed on the floillt~to 1'Ierfi.ld~l..nd
the ,r.de fUk-t. (ntctcd. 11'1:\': f",inltllll,d \l1her POin" (» 0
or
denee th( lu'~, CU"'~lIand OOI'nt:r" Ih~ fI"'lerll
..~\ .,... the 1)041" llne sre t-tlw CIUtl«l '1(~II;tk:~.. r-s
dr,a ho~k:",." (K'Cletf'Osition~0'- buttonhole, can
Alto M r«Of'I.kd

194
GRADING THE l'ArrERN
p.",tc'rft peees cons-true'cd in the ras !X.neftl cullin,
JOn.-;ttl.' or diglli~ Into the ')'SICm can be K'.tllzcd
on~, Grade~inl$canbe identified",ilh Q
~n cursorandthegraderult numbereanbe
Cnl(tW_ Some $)'1I1CIlIS do net U~ srade ruk IIb""rtn
but a'LI(h the ,,,Ie) to the pallern piece lind cop)'
rub from one pauem plecc 10 Iinother, \\'hen ,he
Inldc point\. have been l'uJded. :In hl~lruC:1ion10,r.ack
1M peee I~a:i\l:o.,'lu5 order will t;c:ncratc II nnlo(
p-ado O\-cr the runge or
slees. using thl:' grade rulo
::r.uaehtd to the piece or from «ucs $tored in the It:.Jdc
rule bbracy. The pauerns can be dtu\\ n out on II
pk>c.lcr(or checking. or sent directly through the
S)~em (or fir)' planning: end cutting.
FCRTHER GRADING TECHNIQUES
Sophis.tatl!d grading recbnlques are now included in
m;ln)' prop-am$. Perpendicular grading tak\!l<ltes ,be-
gr.Jd('$ .·jlb reference to the (Ingle of another line:
fan~' ,","ding tecbnlques control points 310ng "liM
or Ihe JenSlh of the line itsclf. If a p'lntrn i$1\"plil,the
...... ,.. ,... , I ..... IW~II
EX:lnll,lc o( a )('ff(n dlspb) or graded Ilie;."t!l.
IJ)' ""rmi.u""" 0{
textilestudycenter.com
")$Iem will grade the new llees
$(~In proponion311)"
If :I line is filtered (In II pauern. il is POSSIblefor it 10
be modified amomntlcalty through lIllithe p;ldtt
'\\'111kin;: smdcd pk'C('( allo\\' $(';,m'i 10 be' cb«kC'd for
fit II10ns tile 1));lkhlg up linc"
A number of ccmpanlee :II'\' dc\cloptn, ~)~cm"
bii..~on l).lrllnlclrl~'S.J\n)' lil~"sIIrt based on ttk
me..~uR'nlenl<!o 1II,I(Icto con)Otrucl lhe p;alkrn. "")'
n~ "11(:1 :11'( !lCnerillcd nOI throuah point mO\cmcul\,
but through measurement chanla.
Some iOlnilUclolhing c:onJpanic:-:sdo nOi b;;r\~pauem
('tItting or .srl.ding expertise, SOsome soO\\'3rot
companlC$ oifera range of patterns of bull: pnneols
("'itb alternative sleeves and collan). ;alrcad) graded.
Instead of copying individual grade points (rom other
patterns. Eos)'Grtltling from In\'CS.ronc aJlo-s ~
company to lay a panem ever a similar gmdcd shape
in the system to COl»)'all the grades, 'Ibese shon-cu:t
lec:hniques;Ire useful for companies "ith :a n~~
prodUC;l base: however. they do res.rict their Sl)'lin,
cepabili ties,
Gc-rlw T«llttQIIIg)'
 195

A nllt,.kcr-mukln, <W)Ov.;ar"C:'
progrllm screen dl~phlY,
fJJ' P4·f",/.II/I~ 11(Ul.tl,ll I-ulfn,,.,

Lay Planning nnd Mnrkcr-lVlllking

CRI,J\TI~O MODELS dlSlnbult' the )1/J.1SullO dlflerem m:arun 10 ,nC' Ibe

Thtoupoul the elC)thin. indU:Slry.n051 "'Qnlp.lni~ bc$1 fahrie uulil.,.lion for tbe order
rrutkJol ~ub5tllnllUl qUllnlitib or garments ate' U1ln, ThC' marker for cilch Inbric nttd, th(' rou",,,.,..
CAD 'S)'Jk'~ ThC'} bougln tbem princIpally fer Instructions:
mllrUf-m:tking_. 'Yi'hiehoffers accuraey, speed and I. I'ie('.e Ram¢$-
r"bric ulilit.alion. 2. 5uC$
To CUI iii. garment by CI\I) the tiNt procedure is 10 3. Number of pioc<:'!(
create 'modd$' (or the styJ!:'. A Inudel ts created b) .4. Fabric constminu s (sins,leoor doubk·pl). rll~lO-
(!allinl up the $Iyle's pattern pieces (.!llo1l=d in the reee, n~p)
$)1>tC'm)thai b.."l\'C to be (;ul in :l pal'ltcul:tr ("bric~ .r S. 1\1'1)' blocking or jlfC'Lt'
there :IIf\" different fabrics us'ed in the st)'k. or i( thC=R 6. An)' bun'C'rin~"round pieces
are inln1ining.i. 01' lilli,.&$." nllmbet or '1'Iloocls' -. in " ~iatchina(\r c-he(;k~paueras,
hll\C' 10 ~ madt:
~lARKI!R·~iJ\K'NO
1\ MARKER ORDP.R The pauem piece~ Ii)r 'he fftllrktt ,Ippc~r on lhe
Ol\l('r ~"jnJl. ror produl.!liC'lnlit)' pl.'Il$ can br \C1)' \('~n lind can l)ll'l\ he Illil«'tl 111,111110111) by >In
romrk,. (hcrt!' ean be JUi nUUI>':I~ ci$ht rabrloC1 In .. opcnltor 'dr"Sa,nl' the 11ICL'UInln f'J(Kltt(ln 'Iany
j;ack<t.c.K'h~uirina ~InlodlL'll'IndIItl)af'\llC' t..) pbA (!option"allow th'" ~.r()l1l'1lnt; of pl\!«':,\..nd the- d)_tnk
'm.;t,LC'f •. In addition. " Itlrgc order with 1'I1,Iny ii.lC1' 1I1tf.....l'on (II' mlltchlng or pieces. Ttk ~hll'ld..rd or
"llIu'I('f'(';ut Iht 11ufllbcrflrnlllll;c:N. r'lc
I(,flath o( IUt(\",,,'M: 111nt~e:r'nl{jkinG h.I' In,pru\'(d In ,peed olnd
,he altura, 'Ibid r't..'i-ltK"lIIthe marker h~I)Kth rab~ utiHOlllllon"lid 1$now u!oCd more ofteo l.b;.tn
TbC'rd'OR:,the: di.!.lnbulion or
the number o( garment\ manual runtllons. 'l he:~ ..tent "IU II) dlfl'C~l "'3l~
lind j1U'j. in ;I ml\rker is (1l1cild 10 the rnbric or pI~dnc. Ihe pteces In tbe Ill)"unlillbc ~I f.1bric:
utilization figures. CUI Order J)J;uullng 5On,,·OIrc tolD Ullhz.atlon IS achieved,

196
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0i1«1 web-based nlllrl.:ttolllOkinS i~ n(')\\' (I\ailoabtc
(rom 3»)'SI butmer; lind it offers the SC:f"\ lee to
eM,hlns mlinuflt(,IUre"f'I.lis IId\'3'1I"$( it the f)O'A'l't of
the: INln CO"'I'Ulcr \\'Iuch On'Crli qUl.\hl)· marler'S
1\\""(111)' (our houfl> per d.IY every tiny, It \\or"" at a.
\n)' (.a51 ,peed 1't'C-i.rtllcs) of ,...-h<:ther or 1'101II
a.stomt'T ha' brolld~1I1(1i,"(lnlll.."Ction.). The' '4:(''" tJ
.urru:d at m:anUr.tCIUI'tI'S",.110:11'()hurt or '\.Iall. h:t\~
pc..k \\'Orl:lOlld!. are \\'tInting 10 expand productIOn.
or thOSle ,,1'10 have production spread nround the-
."rid II 1$ ,nl!)OMan! (or nlanuf\tclurert 10 tt<.alil"(
thai compallbilit), between systems i,no longer :.II
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l>rcC'p-pl)' ('Ullina on thc
"Turbocut' knife plotter.
'liolfll,..plt It) /H'N.tl.\JJOII tlj
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textilestudycenter.com
problem. Ih:lt d"ul can be transferred btl\\"'(IItft
different CAD systems,
PLO'ITINGANI) CU'I,'ING
The' markeI'~can be: pleued OUI or ('ut lIulom.aluU)'
on hi,lh·"'petd. dl,'tll.ply (ul((", that (an cut man)'
b)l'tJ of fubric_ or on lJins:Jt:-pl) (UIICf'( (01(Uslom·
made ,,,rmelu$. (;ctbcr'i. 11I1"Jhm UJ("Soilntntctheent
\ rcon ,,>,Icln 10 ~inll)lif)' ,tntJ unpN'l't plOIKIand ~'''pc
rnalchllli. "he olwrlilor U~; the ad\"aDa:dcamcD
and OpltO'~y$Il!l1lto precisscn match the fabric
('Utting.
u.comeeree ;tulOmllltc
nlnrki.':r·nulklng
l'h(JI('j:fOpl. It)· JIC'"nkf,qn ('/
u\\)wr h"llnUff
 197
Appendix: Aliquot Parts

If II c.leulalOf I~ nfU ..v.. ill1ble (or \\'urlr.l". OUI HI ST. WAIST 1\ Nil 1111' ,en"
'1'It: follo'o\,illlf, table \:JI1 be- u~
(,....C'lIon;a1Plrl,
tabk CO\-cnm(l~1 of Ihe pcpulnr lIl)'(1". ("t,UI'ej re
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'<ECK SIZE (em) 63 39 5.! 10.5 1'.7~ JI~
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.',
to obtaII'!the ,..diu) required to ~)I'I~ltU(1 Il \'1n:k. Xl S.2 tt ') IlK lOi~ 'IS
84 !.! 7 I' 11 '1
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rm.- f'lldIUSlS:t. hne from Usc centre of the cwcle to t.bc $7
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89 5.6 , .oJ 14.8 lUS ".5
90 S.6 7.S IS .,., S
Radius =: circumference: divided by 6.28. '5
91 S.7 7.6 IS.! 22.15- 'S,5
on 5.8 7.1 15.3 )3 -'6
\\';:,i ..,line ,nell$l,u~m('nli:s 6S<rn.a
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ciniC' is n:oqWred whose circumference is 68\,'111.
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COa$IN(1 ;a Clte,le; r!ldiu$ IO.Scl'n. its ..iteum(ctcno: 96 6 8 16 24 48
"fit tIC 68cm. 97 6.1 8.1 16.2- !-.&,1S '&'5
9S 6.1 8.2 16.3 2.&5 49

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99
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textilestudycenter.com
 199

CHAPTER INDEX
Part One: Classic Form Cutting
I I Ill: IIASIC I)"U I Ell OOIJICI: 1I1,()C~S 4 SLFI'\'11 \\11'111 nAC''': S6/\~t 4R
lOOLSAl\tl eQUIPMENT FOR MAKING .s CLOSI IIT"I'INO SLEEVL 48
P\TTER"'S S 6 SIIORT SI,I'I.VE 4R
I'II)USTRIAL SI7.INO SYSTeMS 9 7 ~I ri ~I) SIIORT SI,EEVF 4$
STA",I)ARI) SODY MI:.ASIJIU;M~NrS 10 8 rADllED SIIOIJLI)EIIS 48
COI\S'TRUCiING OI.()C;KS n 9 SLEEVE WIl'U SLI(,II r "I.ARE .so
THE CUlSE I'ITTING BOI)ICE IILOCK 14 10 "EI{'~ I:Lt\I{EI) SLEEVE .so
rilE EASY HTTING BODICE BLOCK 16 II GATlIEREI) 11'1'1'0 A CU~F .so
THE TAILORED JACKET OLOCKS 18 I~ SLEEVE WITII FLARED SECiIOI\ .so
SHAPING THE BLOCKS 18 I} SLEEVE W., H MOCK CUFF so
THE CLASSIC COAT BLOCKS 10 I' BISlior SLEEVE se
TUE ONE· PIECE SLEEVE BLOCK 22 15 LANTERN SLlmVE .so
THE n\'().PIECE SLEEVE ULOCK 2" 16 PU~FSL£EVE 52
THE SI.EEVEI.ESS IILOCKS 26 17 GATHERED HEAD ;1
SHAPING THE WAIST' 27 18 DARTED HEAD 52
19 SEAMED HEAl)
TIlE DRESS BLOCKS 28
10 I~SE1' C/\I.) SI~I!.EVE ,_52.,
1 FRO)I BLOCK TO IWrl'ERN 21 Sl'RAI'I'I!O 116AD 52
FROM BLOCK TO IWI1'~RN :ro 22 RAISI~O SI!A~'1 ~2
SEAM ALLOWANC~S )2 II lOWERI;1) ARMSC"" 54
p,\mRN INSTRlJCTIOI'lS ~:l ~4 fASY l·rl1'INc, 'slIurr ARMSC't E 54
fo'l\ORIC OR;\I N \4 lS I)ROI'pel) SIiOULO~R wrru
L,\'yS ).I lOWERI,I) ,\RMSCY~ 54
26 ()ROI'I'(;I) SIIOU LD~R 56
J 8,\$1(' ,'0,\ I'I'A n{lNS Of rllt :7 I)ROI'PEI) SIIOUI,I)ER wrru PlH
BODICE BLOCKS Sl.EEVE S6
DAR nxo ...111·Ubl'I('E 16 :!8 EXTp.NI)eO SLal!VF ~6
I lOW CUT FRONTS 31 ;:<) ~lARED EXT~NI)ED SLEEVE 56
2 STAi'DARD aurrosso ~RON1' .l8 JO I!XThNDEO SL6I!V~ WITti YOKE 56
3 I)()UBLE URE,\$1't;O I'RON'r lS 31 HASIC R.t\(iLf\N SLf!eVE ss
4 ~lY FRONT 3S 32 FLARED RAGLAN SLEEVE sx
5 ASY)IMETRICAl FllON'r )S 33 DEEr' RACLM'I SLEEVE 58
6 SHIRT FRONT as ).I RAGLAN WITH SQUARE SHOULDER 58
7 BUST D..\RT '''' \'ERTIC-,\l S£.-,\~1S 40
8 BUST DART IN CURVED VERTICAL Tin: SIiAPEf) KIMONO BLOCKS
SEA)IS 40 KIMONO SLEEVES
9 Ilt;ST DART IN HORIZON-r,\l S£A~1S .;0 ,5 IIASIC KIMONO BLOCK 60
10 Bt'ST DM!T IN CIJRVIlO SE,\MS 40 36 CLOSE FITTING KIMONO BLOCK 61'
I I OL;STDART IN ,'UCKS 42 37 l:ASY 1~111·IN(.1KJ~10NO "LOCK 60
12 BUSTD... \ItT IN (i,\'l'lll~ItS 42 38 I)OlMAN SLEEVE 62
I) 8~ST DART IN PLE,\TS 42 )9 Sl-I,.\rt£l) SI~H~\IE 62
14 OATIII.RED nUST SI,,\M 44 40 SQUARE ARMSCYf 62
IS \\IRAI' OVI::.R I'RON',. 44 41 IIA'IWINO 6Z
I. tlRAI'F.I) ~RONT 44 42 KIMONO STYI.E WI I'fl VOKL .2
17 ('I.ASSIC" 1I1.0USE 46 43 CAl. SIITI:.VI: 1.4
44 CAl' sua. VI' WITII c;USSt r 64
• SLI::EV[ .\OAl"I'" !'IONS
I STR \ICH r SLEEV., 4S
45 CAli SLI!I::VI~\VITIII'i-\NEL
4~ fl,J\kl~O ('~AI'e
64
64
2 SHIRT SlEI·\,E 4$ 47 t-.1TEI) ('I\I'E 64
3 SEM I·HTTI!O scaeve <s 4S CUI'~S 66
 textilestudycenter.com
200

Part One: Classic Form Cutting - Continued

5 CO"5'1 RIIC1Ii':G COI.I.ARS 19 SKIRT WITII 1111'POCKET 92
COLtARS CbNI;llAi_ I'R INCII'LES 1>8 2(1 COWl. SKill" 9~
I PI,TI:R P,\N (11.1\,-, COI_LAR 68 21 SKIRT WII'II OA'I'lIhREI) FRO"T 92
2 (10N('OLI.;\11 6tI 11 SKIR I' wrru OODr rs 9-1
1 IlAT COLlAR WITII I.OW N~CKLINb 21 1\.~YMM~"RIC'AI.SKIRr 94
ANO sue 111' Sl'ANI) 6tI 24 SKIRT W!TII A FLOUNCt 9'
4 SAILOR COl I All 68 2S wAISTaANI)S 96
, ~tANl)j\RINCOLLAK 10
6 ~TANI)ING 5111AI(;II1' COLlAR 70 7 .1'1t:o 'fROUSf:11 OLUC'KSA;\O
1 POLO COLLAR 10 J\I)AlvrA'rIONS
~ CONVER"rlBLE COllAl1 70 Till! CI.i\SSIC T,\llORED TROUSER
9 SIlIRT COLlAR 10 BLOCK 98
10 WING COLlAR 70 TAII,ORE" SNORTS 98
" REVER fRONT 12 I CULDrI'ES 100
12 ClASSIC ROLL COLLAR 71 2 PLEATED CULOTTES 100
13 CHANGING THE S'r,'LE LINE 12 .I FI.i\REO CULoTTES 100
14 SHAWL COLLAR 12 • TROUSERS WI'rH l'lEATED
15 tllGli SliAPED COI.LAR 12 \\'AISTLINE 102
16 HOLLOWED NECKLINE 12 s fl.i\RLD AN!) GATHERED rROUSERS 102
17 CLASSIC GF.N"S COI.I.I\l1 14 THE VER" CLose FITTING TROUSER!
I~ ClASSIC RP.EFER COI.LAII 14 JEo\NS UI.OCK 104
19 STANI)AND REVI,ll 14 6 IIASIC J~ANS ADAI''I'A' ION 104
20 STAsnAllD IlEVEll wrru 7 IHf'STI.II JllilNS ADAPTATION 106
CONCF.AI.EI) STAND 7.
21 COLLAR ANI) Il~Vlm WITII 3 C().\lf'I.£X AI)J\I)"fl\ II()~S0 .. rue
COMPI.~TF. S1'ANI) 74 1l(1)(t'f.1J~0(;K.s:ORES.'ES-
22 (OLlAR ssr AWAYI'ROM NECK 7' JAC~f. I'S-COA'I'S
2.1 ~RILLI,D COLl_AR 16 I..INGENII>; ,\NI) t:()N~1 rrrnxc ORl:s."E.'i
24 HULLU> RbVER 76 I 'ORA' '1'01' 108
1$ SI~tI1U:CO,\IL C·{)LI..J\i{ 76 ~ VllRilCAl. SI5}-\~IS 109
.I ~'TRI\I'LESS nOI)IC~ lOS
6 TlI£ IlASIC ."rEO S~IR'r ULOCK "',",0 • CAMISOLE 1'01' 110
ADAPTATIONS 5 -v: NeCK 110
TIlE TAILORE!) SKIRT IlLOCK ,. 1)1tES.')F"s J\i\'1} ·1)R":S.')~ls\
KER' .li\CKETS
I STRAIGHTSKIRT ~ I "'\SIC SHIFT DRESS 112
1 PANEL SKIRT so 2 STYI.ED SIIII~r !)RESS III
3 STRAIGHT SKIRT \VI1'''' ,rENT 3 PRINC£SS llNE 114
PLEo\T BOX PI.EAT SO 4 SE.\tl..FrrrEI) I)RINCESS L.INE 114
• STRAIGIIT SKIRT - INVERTEI) PLEATS 82 S CLASSIC SIIIRT !)RESS 116
s SKIRl \\'11 H ALL·ltOUNO PLEATS S~ b EASY ~1'l,'INODRESS 116
6 KILT S2 7 JACKET I'LEII'rED PEPLUM 118
7 GATHERFD SKIRT 8' S BASIC "ITT!!I) JilC'K er 118
8 GAfll"RI," SKIR'r WITIII'ANlL8 $4 9 JACKHr f'1.,\llel) f'I'.PLUM 118
9 CIRCUI.i\R SKIR" ... JAC~ I;lOSANO COATS
10 HASIC'A' LINll SK mr 86 I SEMI,I'lrfEl~JA(,KETOR CO..\T 120
" lOUR GORI,I) SKUll' 116 2 CLASSIC OveReOA I 120
12 SKIRl Willi EX' Ril FLAR~ 16 1 I'ITT"O JiI(,K~l' In
Il GORP.D'A'~IN"SKIII1' gS 4 FITI"I)(,OAT 122
14
IS
GOR.,D ANI) I'I.P.'\T"" 'I\' lINt SKIRr
;\' Lll-I, SKII{T O'\'I'I~£REO INSET &~
*~ S IIrn'I)CASV"~JI\CKtr
ClASSIC COA'I' AND JACKET 1IE.\IS At-D
124

16 OOR "" SK IRl' 90 SEAM ALLOWANCES IlS

11 GOR!''' SKIRT WITH I,OW H,I\RE 90 ClASSIC t'OA'I' I\NO JACKET LINIl'.(lS 126
18 flARED SKIR'r - UNI'RESSEI) PLEATS 90
 201
Part Two: Flat Cutting
, .!A.S\' .11·111\(: (;ARj\lf.!J~1'S I TRACK surr ron INSCrSUo~\'E IJ6
(_ml'll r.brl<") ~ I LEEC~ J"CKET RAOLAN Slbl:.EVI:. 146
I:',SI II rJ I:-'C: 1'1101 Sf:11 AND SKIRT SIIAI'I:;; J TRACK Min' TR()USbRS IJ~
IIIL ""S, II ruso 1 ROVSIiR IILOCK 118 1I0ClOS
LASJ; 11'- 11l1:.1lACK CIIU1'CII 113 J SIMPL.IIOOO 149
lifE SIMPII, ,'ROIlSEK IlLOCK 110 $ C:;USS~l £1) 1I0~)I) 149
riu, Sl\tI'LI:. SK IRT ULOCK 1)0 K:-I 1"\\ tAR flU)CKS
I 'B,'OOY' 1ROUSERS I,'~ TIfE BASIC GIIiO 1$(1
1 ONE,PII£~ 'I ROUSEIIS III I BASIC SIIOlJUlEII ISO
1:,1$1 ITn'I:-C uOO\' SHAI'ES ~ EXTENOEI) SHOlJI.06R ISl
TIfE BASIC SI1IRT LlLOCK I.~ J RAGL,IN SI.lmVI! I~l
TIfE BASIC 'FLA'I" OVSROARMENT COMPUTERS AND KNITTED GARMENT
BLOCKS IU SHAPES 1;.1
THE 'FL,IT KIMONO ULOCK 136
I JACKET -INSE1' SLEEVE 138 II CLOSE FI'ITING GAR~I£:'\TS
z TRENCH COAT -INSET SLEEVE 118 (ilrilrt'lch Ilnd jCr$t)' rllbtits)
J SWING j,\CKET/COAT KIMONO CLoSE FITrING 11001' BLOCKS I~
SLEEVE 1..0 LEGGINGS IILOCK I~
01 WEATliER\VEAR - K ([vIONO SLEEVE 1.:6 I CLOSE Frn'ING RI88EO TOP ISR
1 8,'SIC C;\I' SI.EEVED TEE 1;.<1
10 £.\5\' .~l"'I.N'GCAI~t'1F.N1'S J SPORTS SKIRT WITIII'ANTS 158
(~ and knl1r('d rllbrlc.s) J Sl'IIIiTCIl "RESS 15S
"-,,SI' 11 n INC; 11I,(ICKS l'OIl,If.RSI:V \I foAR f10DYSII,\I'eRS 160
JI:.RSEY JACKrTS '''' SWIM"'I!A II 11.0
RAGLAN AI)A,llA1'ION ,.....

Part Three: Size and Fit

11 u..,SIC' GKAOIN(; -rf:(~IINIQUt:S 13 OIl"",.,N(; IfLDCKS AND FITrI:-.G lOR
GRADING FOUR SIZES I().I I~OlVfl)UAL FIGURES
GRADING 01>£ SIZE VI' - FORM ORAl' INtO BLOCKS FOR INDIVUlUAL
CLrrT1NO I().I fiGURES 170
ORAI)ING ONE SIZE VI' Fl.".,. TAKING M~o\Sl)IIEMENTS 170
CUTfI~G 167 ~1f'KING 1'OlLES 172
PAlTERN Ar:rEflA1'IONS TO FIT 173

Part Four: Computer-Aided Design

." OESlt-:~ AXO
CO~II) n:R.(;€.!~£R.t\·I'I;:() PAl1 ERN CJ{t:A'f'ION AN"D
l'AlTERN ~IAK1N(: MOOIFI('A TION 187
USI'G C/\O IN Cl01'l11N(i SIZII\G ANI) MADE,TO,MEASURE 191
MA:,\L FACTlJR E IS. I'ATIERN ORAI,'NO 1~2
DESIGN ANI) MARK" nNe; IS. LAY I'LANNING ANI) MARKER,MAKING 195
PRODUCTION I)ATA M;'N;'(;IlMENT 1116

Appendix: Aliquot Parts