Quality seams

Tesco
August 11, 2016
 Thread

A large number of filaments spun together and made for stitching.

 Aesthetics
Color, luster and fineness/thickness are the primary factors.
Shade matching, color fastness etc. are secondary issues.

Performance

Evaluated from its seam strength, abrasion resistance, elasticity, chemical

resistance, flammability, durability, stretching and color fastness.
 Thread properties

1. Strength
2. Tenacity
3. Elongation
4. Shrinkage
5. Abrasion resistance
6. Color fastness
7. Fault levels - FTK (Faults / Ten Kilometers)
8. Lubrication - FI (Friction Index)
9. Twist - Per Inch/meter - TPI/TPM
 Tenacity

1. Strength:
 Normally expressed as STS – Single Thread Strength in gms.
 The load at which the thread breaks.

2. Tenacity:
 Defined as the strength to fineness ratio.
Avg. Strength in Gms. ÷ Grist in Tex

Expressed as gms/ Tex.

 Tenacity

70
67
60
60

50
48
44
40
36
30

25
20 22

15
10
C.F. Ray on Mecer. cotton Core spun C.F. Poly
Sof t cotton SSP CFN 6 CFN 6,6
 Thread properties
Elongation:
• Expressed as %
• Critical for seam stretch
• Critical in pucker free seaming
• Critical in forming skip stitches
• Contolled elongation is must for better loop formation
• Elastic threads – normally on loopers
 Thread properties
Abrasion resistance:

 Critical in heavy washes / applications

Durability factor for various substrates :
Rayon : 1 Shrinkage:
Cotton : 3  Expressed as %
SSP : 12
Core spun : 30  Critical in pucker free seaming
CF Nylon : 150  Dry shrinkage & wet shrinkage
 Synthetic threads – Dry shrinkage
 Cotton – Wet shrinkage
 Thread properties
Color fastness:
 Color withstanding capacity.
 Normally expressed with Grade 1 to Grade 4.
 Higher grade means better fastness properties
 Fastness could be measured under various parameters,
 Washing
 Water
 Rubbing
 Perspiration
 Saliva
 Light
 Ticket Numbers

 Just a reference number given by a sewing thread manufacturer for a

particular thread size.
 Not a technical number
 Varies from place to place / manufacturer to manufacturer
 Similar to indirect numbering system

 Higher the number – Finer the thread

 Lower the number – Thicker the thread
 Thread constructions
Continuous
Corespun Monofilament
filament
(3 ply)
(single)

Staple Continuous
spun Tri-lobal filament
(3 ply) filament (3 ply)

Continuous
Textured Air jet filament
(2 ply) textured (3 ply bonded)
 Thread Substrates & Brands

Poly/Cotton Core spun D Core

Poly/Poly Core spun Perma Core
Staple Spun polyester Perma Spun
Cont. Filament Polyester TerylB
Trilobal Polyester Stylo
Textured Polyester Wildcat
Microfilament textured Poly Permasoft
Cotton – mercerised Anecot
The most durable seams
Mercerised cotton for overdyeing
Filament polyester for neat and strong
seam
Water Soluble Thread
Strength & Elasticity together
Soft & Stretches seam
Buttons will
never fall apart
 Fuser

• Polyester corespun thread with special adhesive properties

• Activates at its melting temperature
• Adhesive properties gives increased button, beads security
• Stitch button and reverse it for ironing
• Recommended fusing temperature 110-120℃ for 10 secs
• T24 5000m 2ply and T40 2000m 2 ply
• MOQ 40, production lead time 3 weeks
 Anelock

• Prevent bottom hem falling apart on formal trouser and

skirt
• Provides enhanced durability
 Anelock Construction

 A Polyester/Polyamide multifilament
 Recommended to use as lower looper thread in
overlock seams
 Melts at 110℃ when fusing/iron
 Thread size Tex 35