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TABLE OF CONTENTS
1. INTRODUCTION 4
5. PATTERNS
5.1 PATTERNS FOR BEGINNERS 17-25
5.1.1 V-Stitch Crochet Scarf
5.1.2 Beach Mat
5.1.3 Beginner Baby Blanket
5.1.4 Flower Free Crochet Pattern
5.1.5 Tote Bag
5.1.6 Granny Square Heart Pattern:
INTRODUCTION
Crochet is fun, it’s versatile, quick to learn: and it’s nowhere near as difficult as many people
think! With the help of this useful guide, you can learn to crochet even if you’ve never picked
up a hook before.
Learning to crochet has been made even simpler with today’s technology. Within this eBook,
you’ve got a powerful collection of videos to get you started down the right track.
Sometimes it’s a bit confusing to know where to start, and with so many patterns available, it
can be pretty overwhelming. There’s such a variety of patterns and styles to choose from that
we can become lost, confused, and even a little apprehensive to pick one! It can be a real
challenge to find something that is right for your skill level and the amount of free time you
Luckily for you, we’ve picked out some of the most popular patterns on AllFreeCrochet,
compiled them, and now they’re yours at no extra cost! Could it get any better than that? You
won’t have to worry yourself searching for projects or wasting time anymore: just take a quick
look at our table of contents to see which category seems right for you, and start moving those
hooks!
You may have a favourite chair that you like to sit in when you crochet or maybe you’ve never
thought about it. The type of chair you choose matters when it comes to maximizing your
comfort while you crochet. Crocheting requires you to keep your head down continuously, so
your body posture is of the utmost importance if you want to avoid pain in your neck, arms,
The angle of your body and your positioning is also important. For example, if you’re sitting
on a loveseat while you crochet, it’s best to center yourself in the middle with pillows tucked
under your elbows. This will give you the best arm support.
TheCrochetCrowd is going to teach you how to sit most properly while crocheting. Finding
the right position will determine your overall level of comfort. Mikey is going to give you
some winning tips for releasing pressure from your back, shoulders and arms. He’s also going
to show you where to place your yarn balls when you are crocheting to control the tension.
Finally, he’ll give you the lowdown on holding a hook and positioning yarn in your hands.
You may have a favourite set of general hooks that you use most of the time, but there are
some hooks used for specific projects: and many niche crochet techniques require special
1. Tunisian crochet requires a specific hook type that is longer than a standard crochet
hook.
2. Thread crochet uses small steel crochet hooks.
3. Broomstick lace requires drawing loops up onto a larger hook; a big plastic crochet
hook is smoothest for this job.
4. Bullion stitch may require a smoother hook or specific hook head for easier
crocheting.
5. Wire crochet work can be hard on hooks--especially bamboo ones--so you’ll need a
separate set of tools for these projects.
6. Double-ended crochet projects require hooks that have a head on each end.
Specialty Hooks
7. Besides the normal hooks, there are specialty ones to work with Tunisian crochet and
Crochet on the Double.
8. The Afghan hook uses the same basic sizing system as a regular 5" to 7" hook, but it
is generally much longer at 10" or 14" long. You can also get afghan hooks with a
flexible wire so you can hold more stitches. It is similar to the knitting system of using
circular needles.
9. The hook used for Crochet on the Double and Croche tnit has a hook on both ends of
the tool. The hook is the same size on both ends.
10. A new tool on the market is the Knook. It is generally made of bamboo and has
a hole at the top where you thread cord. It is used to "knit" with a crochet hook.
The head or hook is the most essential part of the tool and a large
There are two basic hook types. They are often referred to as Bates
and Boye, but they are really in-line and tapered. This refers to the
honesty, neither is really better than the other: it’s just a matter of
personal preference.
You’ll notice the difference in Bates and Boye hooks as you look to
the shafts of each type. Bates has a very small shaft, whereas Boye
has a longer shaft. Working with both types should help you
Not all crochet hooks have a grip or thumb rest section. Some are straight or made in other
The handle is often the part of the hook where the designers let their creativity flow. Many
crochet hook designers take aluminum hooks and add clay or plastic handles in various colors
and designs.
If you’re wondering about which crochet hooks other crocheters consider to be the best, you’ll
be glad to know that the general consensus seems to stand behind the ergonomic hooks with
soft rubberized handles. If it’s not already clear in your mind, here are just a few of the
• Soft rubber design is comfortable on the hands for prolonged periods of crocheting
• Combination of rubber and aluminum makes these durable, long-lasting crochet hooks
The ergonomic design that allows for lengthy crocheting time without hand or wrist pain is
the number one reason people favour these crochet hooks: and you can buy them direct from
us at
Loveartscrafts! They are color coded in 9 different sizes, and the sizes are printed right on the
If you want to invest in your own color-coded soft grip hooks, head to LovesArtsCrafts.com!
Crochet Yarn
The yarn you’re using in your project is just as important as the needles you work with.
Different projects will call for different weights of yarn, and there’s a quite a few types that
you should be familiar with right off the bat. Most often, you’ll be working with a yarn made
1. Lace and Fingering yarn weights are the thinnest and most delicate that you can
find.
2. Sport yarn is also fine, but it’s very suitable for blanket-making or clothing for babies
and toddlers.
3. Light Worsted yarn has a more substantial feel to it, and it’s ideal for a lot of
4. Worsted yarn is more commonly used for crafting winter clothing and heavy
blankets.
5. Bulky yarn is perfect for making scarves and other household statement pieces: like a
It’s vital that you pay attention to the pattern that you’re working with. Strive to get the same
yarn weight used in the pattern you’re following for the best results possible. If you don’t
follow that pattern closely, your final product could turn out less than exciting. There’s
endless yarn colors that you can buy: and if you’re unsure about what size crochet hook you
might need, just refer to the pattern or the label on your yarn package for a quick reminder.
There are times when you’ll be working on a huge project that requires a whole bunch of
yarn. In these instances, it’s a good idea for you to pay attention to the dye lot labeled on your
yarn’s packaging. Make note of it just in case you need to buy more from the same lot: and if
you can, just buy some backup yarn to avoid running out. Sometimes, combining different
dye lots in your projects can have a negative effect. If you’re just beginning to learn with
crochet, you should focus on lighter colors of yarns so you can clearly identify your stitches.
As you become more skilled, you can feel free to experiment with more and more colors!
Before you can do any crochet stitches, you need to know how to hold
the yarn and the hook.
The traditional technique is to hold the hook is as though it were a pen,
gripping it between your thumb and first finger just near the actual
hook section – the same way as you would hold a knitting needle. The
traditional method to work is by holding the yarn and the base of the
working loop in your left hand. Start by gripping the base of the starting
slipknot underneath the hook and between the thumb and first finger of
your left hand.
Leave the cut end of the yarn to dangle free and take the ball end over
your fingers, wrapping it round your little finger. To make each stitch,
you either twist the hook clockwise around the yarn, or loop the yarn
over the hook to wrap the yarn around the hook, ready for the next
stitch. Extend your middle finger to regulate the flow of the yarn, taking
care not to pull the yarn too tightly.
Before you begin, you will need to make your first stitch. This will form
the basis for all the following stitches.
We will begin by making a slip knot on the crochet hook about 6 inches
from the free end of the yarn. You will first start by creating a loop with
the yarn. Be sure that the free end of the yarn is dangling behind your
loop
Insert the crochet hook through the center of the loop and hook the free
end.
Pull this through and up onto the working area of the crochet hook.
Pull the free yarn end to tighten the loop. The loop on the crochet hook
should be firm, but loose enough to slide back and forth easily on the
hook. Be sure you still have about a 6-inch yarn end.
You have completed one half double crochet; one loop remains on
the hook.
To finish the row, continue to work one half double crochet in each
remaining chain across the row. Now that we have completed the
row, you should stop and count your stitches. You should have 12
half double crochets, counting the first two chains you skipped at
the beginning of the row as a half double crochet. Turn your work
counterclockwise.
Watch this Half-Double Crochet Stitch Tutorial Video.
Step 2: Bring the yarn over the crochet hook from back to front and
draw it through the chain stitch and up onto the working area of the
hook; you now have three loops on the hook.
Step 3: Bring the yarn over the crochet hook from back to front and
draw through the first two loops on the hook. You now have two
loops on the hook.
Step 4: Bring the yarn over the crochet hook from back to front and
draw through both loops on the hook.
Continue working one double crochet in each remaining chain
across.
After working in each chain across, count your double crochet
stitches. There should be 12 of them, counting the first three chain
stitches you skipped at the beginning of the row as a double crochet
(see illustration 32).
Step 2: Bring the yarn over the crochet hook (from back to
front) and draw it through the chain stitch and up onto the
working area of the hook; you now have four loops on the
hook.
Step 4: Bring the yarn over the crochet hook again and draw it
through the next two loops on the hook. Two loops remain on
the hook.
Step 5: Bring the yarn over the crochet hook and draw it
through both remaining loops on the hook.
You now have completed one treble crochet; one loop remains
on the hook.
Continue working the 5 steps in each of the remaining chains
across. When you have worked your last chain, count your
stitches: there should be 12 treble crochets, counting the first
four chains you skipped at the beginning of the row as a treble.
Wrap the yarn around the hook again and draw this new loop
through the work. There are now 4 loops on the hook. Take
the yarn around the hook once more and draw this new loop
through just the first 2 loops on the hook.
There are now 3 loops on the hook. Wrap the yarn around the
hook again and draw this new loop through the first 2 loops
on the hook, leaving just 2 loops on the hook.
On the next row, you are going to slip stitch across the first
four stitches before beginning to work double crochet again.
5. PATTERNS
5.1 Patterns for Beginners
5.1.1 V-Stitch Crochet Scarf
By: Barbara Badder from Barb's Crochet
MATERIAL
Crochet Hook:
I/9 or 5.5 mm hook
Yarn Weight:
(4) Medium Weight/Worsted
Weight and Aran (16-20 stitches
to 4 inches)
Abbreviations:
Materials:
ch st chain stitch 5 1/2 oz worsted weight yarn
dc double crochet Size I hook
hdc half-double crochet
sc single crochet Measurements:
sl st slip stitch 6 ½ inches wide by 46 ¾ inches
trc triple crochet long or desired length
yo yarn over
tr treble crochet
Pattern:
Ch 28 loosely.
Row 1: (Dc, ch 1, dc) in the fifth ch from hook (V-st made). *skip the next 2 chs, work a V-st
in next ch. Repeat from * across to the last 2 ch, dc in last ch. (8 V-sts).
Row 2: Ch 3, turn. (Counts as turning chain and first dc). Work a V-st in each ch 1 sp across,
dc in top of beginning ch.
Row 3–83: Repeat Row 2 for 81 rows or until the scarf is the desired length.
MATERIAL
Material:
Bernat Handicrafter Cotton
Main Color (MC) 5
Contrast A 4
Contrast B 4
Pattern: Contrast C 4
With MC, ch 99. Size 4.5 mm (U.S. 7) crochet hook or
size needed to obtain gauge.
Row 1: (RS). 1 dc in 4th ch from hook
(counts as 2 dc). 1 dc in each ch across. 97 Measurements:
sts. Join A. Turn. Approx 28 x 60 ins [71 x 152 cm].
Edging: 1st Round: With RS facing, join MC with sl st to any corner of Mat and work 1 row of
sc evenly around outer edge, working 3 sc in corners. Join with sl st to first sc.
2nd Round: Ch 1. Working from left to right, instead of from right to left as usual, work 1
reverse sc in each sc around. Join with sl st to first sc.
Fasten off.
Ties: (make 2)
With MC, make a chain 36 ins [91.5 cm] long. Turn ch sideways and sl st in each ‘bump’ at
side of chain. Fasten off. Fold each tie in half and sew to short end of Mat 2½ ins [6 cm] in
from side edges.
MATERIAL
Pattern:
Row 1: With A, FDC 94. (If you do not want to learn this stitch, you can also complete this
row by chaining 96, then DC in 3rd ch from hook and DC across.)
Switch to Color B.
Next DC (repeat the following steps for as many DCs as you need): Yo and insert hk into the
loops of the last. DC. It’s a little hard to see at first, but
you’ll get the hang of it once you get going.
Draw up the loop and Ch 1 from the loop.
Yo, draw through the first two loops. Yo again and draw
through remaining two loops.
Instructions:
Row 1: With A, FDC 94. (If you don’t want to learn this stitch, you can also complete this row
by chaining 96, then DC in 3rd ch from hook and DC across.)
Switch to Color B.
The rest of this blanket, until you get to the edging, is worked in the back loops only.
EDGING:
With Color A (which you should have ended on in row 47),Ch 1. SC evenly around the entire
blanket, using 3 SC in each corner. Ch 2. 1 DC in each SC around, using 4 DC in each corner.
Fasten off. Weave in all ends.
MATERIAL
Pattern:
Step 1. With center color, start with a magic ring.
MATERIAL
NOTE:
The chain 2 at the beginning of
the first four rounds does NOT
count as the first stitch – you will
need to work in that stitch you
Abbreviations: would normally skip. You will be
ch st chain stitch joining rounds in the first true
dc double crochet DC stitch rather than the top of
hdc half-double crochet the turning chain.
sc single crochet
sl st slip stitch
trc triple crochet
yo yarn over
tr treble crochet
sp space
sk skip
pat st pattern stitch
Pattern:
Round 1: Work 12 DC in the first chain from hook. Join in the top of the first DC. (12)
Round 2: ch 2. 2 DC in each stitch around. Join to the top of the first DC. (24)
Round 3: ch 2. *DC in the next stitch, 2 DC in the next* around. Join in the top of the first
DC. (36)
Round 4: ch 2. *DC in the next 2 stitches, 2 DC in the next* around. Join in the top of the
first DC.(48)
Round 5: Ch 3. *DC, ch 1* in each stitch. Do not slip stitch to the top of the starting chain.
Instead, insert your hook in the first ch1 space of round 5 and continue with round 6 (see
photo above).
NOTE: Please understand that since you’re working in spiral, there will
be a gap when you first transition to working in spiral. If you’d like to
minimize this gap, make the last stitch of round 5 and the first stitch of
round 6 a hdc.
Handles will be worked in rows. The Ch 2 does count as a stitch here. I work between stitches,
but you could work in the stitches, too.
Row 2: ch 2, turn. DC decrease in the next two stitches. DC in the next 5. DC decrease in the
last two stitches. (8)
Row 3: ch 2, turn. DC decrease in the next two stitches. DC in the next 3. DC decrease in the
last two stitches. (6)
Rows 4-15: ch 2, turn. DC in the next 5 stitches (6). (Continue on if you’d like longer straps)
Cut yarn and weave ends. Fold your bag in half as evenly as possible to determine where to
start the other side of the handle (I skipped 15 stitches) and work the handle on the other side
of the bag. Single crochet the two sides of the handle together on the wrong side.
MATERIAL
H Crochet Hook
Starting Triple Crochet Cluster (STCC): ch 3, wrap yarn around hook twice. Insert hook into
a dc from the previous round. Pull up a loop; yarn over, pull through 2 loops; yarn over, pull through
two loops. There should be 2 loops remaining on your hook. Yarn over twice, insert hook into the
SAME stitch; pull up a loop; yarn over, pull through 2 loops; yarn over, pull through 2 loops. There
should now be 3 loops on your hook. Yarn over, pull through all loops.
Triple Crochet Cluster (TCC): Wrap yarn around hook twice. Insert hook into a dc from the
previous round. Pull up a loop; yarn over, pull through 2 loops; yarn over, pull through two loops.
There should be 2 loops remaining on your hook. Yarn over twice, insert hook into the SAME stitch;
pull up a loop; yarn over, pull through 2 loops; yarn over, pull through 2 loops. There should now be
3 loops on your hook. Yarn over twice, insert hook into the SAME stitch. Pull up a loop; yarn over,
pull through 2 loops; yarn over, pull through 2 loops; There should now be 4 loops on your hook.
Yarn over, pull through all loops.
Half Treble Crochet (HTC): Bunny Mummy’s pattern calls for half treble crochets. Here’s how
you do those: Wrap yarn around hook twice. Insert hook into a stitch on the previous round. Pull up
a loop. yarn over, pull through 2 loops. You should now have 3 loops on your hook. Yarn over, pull
through
Daisyall three loops.
Center:
Now that
Ch 3 we’ve got all that out of the way, we’re ready to get started.
Round 1: 12 dc into the first ch. Sl st to the top of the first dc (not the chains). Cut yarn and
weave ends. (12)
Round 2: ch 3, STCC in the same stitch, ch 2. *TCC in the next stitch, ch 2* around. Sl st to
the top of the STCC. Cut yarn and weave ends. (12 clusters and 12 ch 2 spaces made)
Final Round:
sc in the first 5 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch, *sc in the next 2
stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch* two more times. Sc in the next 24
stitches (this includes the ch 1 spaces). At the bottom of the heart, sc,
ch 2, sc. Sc in the next 24 stitches. 2 sc in the next stitch, *sc in the
next 2 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch* two more times. Sc in the next
5 stitches. Sl st to the first sc. Cut yarn and weave ends.
MATERIAL
I crochet hook
Abbreviations:
F crochet hook
ch st chain stitch
dc double crochet
hdc half-double crochet Favorite Findings Buttons (434 –
sc single crochet Blue Ocean)
sl st slip stitch thread for sewing on buttons
trc triple crochet
yo yarn over
tr treble crochet tapestry needle
sp space
sk skip Notes:
Chains do NOT count as the first
Pattern: stitch.
Hat Pattern:
Using an I hook and blue yarn, ch 2.
Round 1: 8 sc into the first chain. Sl st to the top of the first sc. ch 2 (8)
Round 2: 2 dc into each stitch. Sl st to the top of the first dc. ch 2. (16)
Round 3: 2 dc into each stitch. Sl st to the top of the first dc. Cut yarn and weave ends. (32)
Round 4: Join white yarn with a sl st. Ch 2. 1 dc in the same stitch, 2 dc into the next stitch.
*1 dc into the next stitch, 2 dc into the next stitch* around. Sl st to the top of the first dc. Ch 2.
(48)
Rounds 5‐10: dc in each stitch around. Sl st to the top of the first dc. Ch 2. At the end of
round 10, cut yarn and weave ends. (48)
Round 11: Join blue yarn with a sl st. ch 2, dc in each stitch around. Sl st to the top of the
first dc. Ch 2. (48)
Round 12: dc in each stitch around. Sl st to the top of th efirst dc. (48)Stop here and add one
round of sc if you want a beanie. If you’d like an earflap hat, keep going without cutting yarn.
Earflap Directions:
Ch 1.
Row 1: hdc in the same stitch and in the next 11 stitches. Ch 1, turn. (12)
Row 2: hdc 2 together, hdc in the next 8 stitches, hdc 2 together. Ch 1, turn. (10)
Row 3: hdc 2 together, hdc in the next 6 stitches, hdc 2 together. Ch 1, turn. (8)
Row 4: hdc 2 together, hdc in the next 4 stitches, hdc 2 together. Ch 1, turn. (6)
Row 5: hdc 2 together, hdc in the next 2 stitches, hdc 2 together. Ch 1, turn. (4)
Row 7: hdc 2 together, hdc 2 together. Cut yarn and weave ends. (2)
You will now need to work the second earflap. On the front of the hat, skip 13 stitches and
join blue yarn. You will work it exactly as you did the one above.
To finish the hat, sc evenly around the entire hat working two stitches in
the corners of the earflaps. Cut yarn and weave all ends.
Goldfish Appliqué:
Braids:
For each side of the hat, cut 9 strands of yarn (I do three strands of 3 different colors)
approximately 40 inches long. Fold them in half and pull the “loop” through the hat. Pull the
loose ends through the loop to attach the yarn. Separate each color to make three strands.
Then braid and knot at the end to secure. Cut yarn to make the ends even.
MATERIAL
3.77 mm Hook
Tapestry
Abbreviations: Needle
ch st chain stitch
dc double crochet
hdc half-double crochet
sc single crochet
sl st slip stitch
trc triple crochet
yo yarn over
tr treble crochet
sp space
sk skip
pat st pattern stitch
Pattern:
Sole:
Round 1: Ch 15, dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in each of next 10 chs, 4 dc in last ch, working on
opposite side of foundation ch, dc in each of the next 10 chs, join in top of beg ch. (26 dc)
Round 3: Ch 3, dc in same st as beg ch-3, dc in each of next 13 dc, [2dc in next dc, dc in next
dc] 3 times, dc in each of next 11 dc, 2 dc in next dc, join in 3rd ch of beg ch-3. (37dc)
Round 4: Ch 2 (counts as first hdc throughout), working in back loops for this round only,
hdc in each st around, join in 2nd ch of beg ch-2. Round 5: Ch 2, hdc in each hdc around, join
in 2nd ch of beg ch-2, fasten off.
Top:
Assemble Booties:
Set flower on top of sole so that one petal is centered over the toe. Thread the same color yarn
through a tapestry needle and folding the petals over the outer edge of the sole, sew 5 petals
of the flower to the sole creating the top of the shoe. Be sure to sew it very securely,
particularly the edges.
MATERIAL
US – J, 6.00 mm hook
Pattern:
Starting with the skirt, which is worked sideways.
Row 2: CSDC, dc in the next 26(28, 30, 32, 34) sts. Turn. Remove the hook from the loop
(place st marker in loop if desired so it doesn’t pull back through). (27(29, 31, 33, 35) sts)
Row 3: With Color B, join to BLO of 3rd st of previous row with a sl st. Working in BLO, sl st
in the same st and next st, sc in the next 7(7, 8, 8, 10) sts, hdc in the next 7(9, 9, 10, 10) sts, dc
in the last 9(9, 10, 11, 11) sts. Turn. (25(27, 29, 31, 33) sts)
Row 4: CSDC, dc in the next 8(8, 9, 10, 10) sts, hdc in the next 7(9, 9, 10, 10) sts, sc in the
next 7(7, 8, 8, 10) sts, sl st in the next st (first sl st of previous row remains unworked). Break
yarn B. Turn. (24(26, 28, 30, 32) sts)
Row 5: Pick up loop of A from Row 2, CSDC, dc in the BLO of next and each st to end. Turn.
(27(29. 31, 33, 35) sts)
Row 6: CSDC, dc in the next 26(28, 30, 32, 34) sts. Turn. Remove the hook from the loop.
(27(29, 31, 33, 35) sts)
Row 7: With Color C, join to BLO of 3rd st of previous row with a sl st. Working in BLO, sl st
in the same st and next st, sc in the next 7(7, 8, 8, 10) sts, hdc in the next 7(9, 9, 10, 10) sts, dc
in the last 9(9, 10, 11, 11) sts. Turn. (25(27, 29, 31, 33) sts)
Row 8: CSDC, dc in the next 8(8, 9, 10, 10) sts, hdc in the next 7(9, 9, 10, 10) sts, sc in the
next 7(7, 8, 8, 10) sts, sl st in the next st. Break yarn C. Turn. (24(26, 28, 30, 32) sts)
Row 9: Pick up loop of A from Row 6, CSDC, dc in the BLO of next and each st to end. Turn.
(27(29, 31, 33, 35) sts)
Row 10: CSDC, dc in the next 26(28, 30, 32, 34) sts. Turn. Remove the hook from the loop.
(27(29, 31, 33, 35) sts)
Row 11: 54(58, 62, 66, 70): Repeat Rows 7 – 10, alternating between colors B through E for
the Row 7-8 repeats. Do not break Color A.
NOTE: For 6mths there will be 13 color stripes, for 12mths there will be 14 color stripes, for
18mths there will be 15 color stripes, for 2T there will be 16 color stripes, and for 3T there will
be 17 color stripes.
Moving to the yoke: turn the skirt 90° so that you are crocheting across the all-Color A, or
shorter edge of the skirt – this side becomes the top of the skirt. The WS is facing you.
Row 4: CSDC, dc in the next 14(15, 16, 17, 18) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 16(16, 18, 18, 18) sts,
dc3tog, dc in the next 19(21, 23, 25, 27) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 16(16, 18, 18, 18) sts,
dc3tog, dc in the last 8(9, 10, 11, 12) sts. Turn. (78(82, 90, 94, 98) sts)
Row 5: CSDC, dc in the next 6(7, 8, 9, 10) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 14(14, 16, 16, 16) sts,
dc3tog, dc in the next 17(19, 21, 23, 25) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 14(14, 16, 16, 16) sts, dc3tog,
dc in the last 14(15, 16, 17, 18) sts. Turn. (70(74, 82, 86, 90) sts)
NOTE: If the neckline seems to large here for the larger sizes, turn and work another row of
sc sts, following the decreasing pattern established.
Make the sleeves: Sleeves are crocheted right onto the yoke.
Though they are crocheted in the round, after the join at the end of
each round, you’ll turn – so that even numbered rows will be
worked from the “inside” of the sleeve.
Round 2: Ch 2, dc2tog, dc in each remaining st around. Join to 1st st with sl st. Turn. (31(31,
33, 33, 33) sts)
Round 3 – 11: Repeat Round 2, decreasing 1 st per round, so that at the end of
Round 11 you’ll have 22(22, 24, 24, 24) sts.
For size 0-6 mths: Break yarn and go to Cuff Instructions below.
For size 6-12 mths, 18 mths, 2T and 3T: go to Round 12 below.
Round 12: CSDC, dc in next st and each st around, join to 1st st with a sl st. Turn. (22(22,
24, 24) sts)
For size 6-12 mths: Repeat Round 12 1x. Break yarn, go to Cuff Instructions below. For
size 18 mths: Repeat Round 12 2x. Break yarn, go to Cuff Instructions below. For sizes
2T and 3T: Repeat Round 12 3x.
Eloise Baby Sweater: free pattern in 0-6 mths, 6-12 mths, 18mths, 2T and 3T!
Round 1: With Color B, from RS of sleeve, join to BLO of joining st of previous row with a sl
st. Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around. (22(22, 24, 24, 24 sts) Break yarn, seamless join in 2nd
st of the round.
Round 2: With Color C, repeat previous round. (22(22, 24, 24, 24 sts)
Round 3: With Color D, repeat previous round. (22(22, 24, 24, 24 sts)
Round 4: With Color E, repeat previous round. (22(22, 24, 24, 24 sts) Weave in ends.
With Color A, join to RS front opening at the bottom of the skirt with a sl st. Sc evenly up the
side, sc in the BLO around the neck opening, and sc down the other side, leaving the bottom
of the skirt un-edged.
Add Buttons.
Sew buttons to sweater so that they fit between dc sts of the yoke, as shown. As opposed to
fixed button holes, this will allow for a more adjustable fit!
MATERIAL
Medium Weight/Worsted
Weight and Aran (16-20 stitches
to 4 inches)
Color A: 250-450 yds (Oxford Grey
Size H hook
shown)
Yarn needle
Color B: 20-40 yds (Cranberry shown)
Scissors
Color C: 20-40 yds (Paprika shown)
Pattern:
Links:
ch 16
Round 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across (15 st)
Fasten off.
Leave a 12" tail.
Fold the link in half lengthwise (like a hot dog) and whipstitch the sides together. Curl the
link into a circle and whipstitch the ends together to finish the circle. Weave in the ends.
Make 7 more, forming them into a chain by linking them together before whipstitching the
ends closed.
Tie:
Using all 4 colors (or 4 strands of a single color) chain 65. Fasten off. Trim the tails to 1/2" to
make tassels. Tie the tie through the top loop of the links (you don't have to tie it in a bow,
but it looks cute if you do!)
MATERIAL
K Hook
ch st chain stitch
dc double crochet
hdc half-double crochet
sc single crochet
sl st slip stitch
trc triple crochet
yo yarn over
tr treble crochet
sp space
sk skip
pat st pattern stitch
Pattern:
Round 1: ch3, 11 dc in 3rd ch from hook join to top of first dc (11dc)
Round 2: ch2, (does not count as dc now and throughout) dc in same st as joining, 2dc in
next st, *dc in next st, 2dc in next st repeat from * around, join to top of first dc
Round 3: ch2, dc in same st and in next dc, 2dc in next st, *dc in next 2sts, 2dc in next st,
repeat from * around, join
Round 4: ch2, dc in same st, dc in next 2sts, 2dc in next st, * dc in next 3sts, 2dc in next st,
repeat from * around
Round 5: ch2, dc in same st, dc in next 3sts, 2dc in next st, * dc in next 4sts, 2dc in next st,
repeat from * around
Round 6: ch2, dc in same st, dc in next 4sts, 2dc in next st, * dc in next 5sts, 2dc in next st,
repeat from * around
Round 7-23: ch2 dc in same sta and in each st around. (mine is about 17 inches long here)
Hat:
Round 1: ch3, 7dc in 3rd ch from hook, join to top of first
dc, (7dc)
Round 16: ch2, dc in same st and next st, 2dc in next st, * dc in next 2sts, 2dc in next st,
repeat from * around
Round 17: ch2, dc in same st and in next 2sts, 2dc in next st, *dc in next 3sts, 2dc in next st,
repeat from * around
Round 18: ch2, dc in same st and in next 3sts, 2dc in next st, * dc in next 4sts, 2dc in next st,
repeat from * around
Round 19: ch2, dc in same st and in next 4sts, 2dc in next st, * dc in next 5sts, 2dc in next st,
repeat from * around
Round 20: ch2, dc in same st and in next 5sts, 2dc in next st, * dc in next 6sts, 2dc in next st,
repeat from * around
Round 21: ch2, dc in same st and in next 6sts, 2dc in next st, * dc in next 7sts, 2dc in next st,
repeat from * around
Round 23 and 24: ch2 (now counts as first st) * FPDC in next st, BPDC in next st, repeat
from * around
Join, fasten off and weave in ends.
Add pom pom to end of hat.
MATERIAL
1 ball
3540 Currant
Crochet Hook:
5.5mm [US I-9]
Yarn needle
GAUGE:
Round 1 of Hat = 1½” across;
Rounds 1 and 2 of Hat = 2½” across
Cl = Cluster
Yo, insert hook in indicated st and draw up a loop, yo and draw through 2 loops on hook, yo,
insert hook in same st and draw up a loop, [yo and draw through 2 loops on hook] twice (2 loops
remain on hook).
NOTE:
Hat and flower are worked with right side facing at all
times. Do not turn at the end of rounds.
HAT:
Round 2:
Ch 3, dc in same st as join, 2 dc in each remaining dc around; join with slip st in top of
beginning ch—22 dc.
Round 3:
Ch 2, Beg-Cl working first leg in same st as join, ch 3, Cl in back bar of 3rd ch from hook
(horizontal Cl made – 2 loops remain on hook), Cl in same st as 2nd leg of previous Beg-Cl (3
loops remain on hook), Cl in next dc, yo and draw through all 4 loops on hook, *ch 3;
3Cltog working first leg in back bar of 3rd ch from hook, 2nd leg in same dc as last leg of
previous Cl, 3rd leg in next dc; repeat from * 18 more times, ch 3; 3Cltog working first leg in
back bar of 3rd ch from hook, 2nd leg in same dc as last leg of previous Cl, and 3rd leg in slip
st join of previous round; ch 3, Beg-Cl in back bar of 3rd ch from hook; join with slip st in
base of first horizontal Cl—22 horizontal Cl.
Rounds 4–12:
Ch 2, 2Cltog working first leg in same st as join and 2nd leg at base of next horizontal Cl, *ch
3; 3Cltog working first leg in back bar of 3rd ch from hook, 2nd leg in same st as
last leg of previous Cl, and 3rd leg in base of next horizontal Cl; repeat from * 18 more times,
ch 3; 3Cltog working first leg in back bar of 3rd ch from hook, 2nd leg in same st as last leg of
previous Cl, and 3rd leg in slip st join of previous round, ch 3,
Beg-Cl in back bar of 3rd ch from hook; join with slip st in base of first horizontal Cl—22
horizontal Cl.
Fasten off.
FLOWER:
Ch 3; slip st in first ch to form a ring.
Round 1:[Sc in ring, ch 3] 6 times; join with slip st in first ch-3
space—6 sc and 6 ch-3 spaces.
Round 2:
Ch 1, 5 sc in each ch-3 space around; join with slip st in first sc—6 petals.
Round 3:
Working behind the petals of Round 2, [slip st around post of next sc of Round 1, ch 3] 6
times; join with slip st in first ch-3 space.
Round 4:
Ch 1, (sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc) in each ch-3 space around; join with slip st in first sc—6 petals.
Round 5:
Working behind petals of Round 4, ch 5, [skip next sc of Round 4, slip st around post of next
sc of Round 4, ch 5] 5 times; join with slip st in first ch-5 space.
Round 6:
Ch 1, (sc, hdc, 5 dc, hdc, sc) in each ch-5 space around; join with slip st in first sc—6 petals.
Fasten off.
FINISHING
Fold back brim. Using photograph as a guide, sew flower to hat.
Weave in ends.
MATERIAL
Finished measurements:
Cast on 39 stitches.
48-inches long by approximately
K2, p2, repeat to last 3 stitches, k2, p1.
8-inches wide
Repeat this row. That’s it!
Sew in ends, wash gently by hand, block and let air dry.
MATERIAL
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Hat measures approximately
21"/53.5cm circumference (at band)
MATERIALS
Caron International's Simply Soft
(100% acrylic; 6 oz/170 g, 315
yds/288 m skein): 4 oz
Yarn needle
GAUGE
In single crochet worked in the round, 15
sts and 14 rows = 4"/10cm
rev sc (reverse single crochet): Work
single crochet in opposite direction by inserting STITCHES USED
hook in next stitch (to the right if right- Chain (ch), single crochet (sc), slip stitch (sl
handed,and to the left if left-handed), yarn over st)
and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through
both loops on hook.
NOTES
1. Hat is worked in continuous rounds, with RS facing throughout. Do not turn and do not join
at the end of rounds, unless otherwiseinstructed. Place a marker to indicate the end of the
round and move the marker up as work progresses.
HAT:
Ch 2.
Round 1 (RS): Work 4 sc in 2nd ch from hook; do not join and do not
turn—4 sc.
Round 6: Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, [sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc] 3 times, sc in next 6
sc—36 sc.
Round 7: Sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, [sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc innext sc] 3 times, sc in next 4
sc—40 sc.
Round 8: Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, [sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in nextsc] 7 times, sc in last 3 sc—
48 sc.
Round 9: Sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, [sc in next 11 sc, 2 sc in next sc] 3 times, sc in next 6
sc—52 sc.
Round 10: Sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, [sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc in next sc] 3 times, sc in next
10 sc—56 sc.
Round 11: Sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, [sc in next 6 sc next sc] 7 times, sc in next 2 sc—64
sc.
Round 12: Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, [sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc] 7 times, sc in next 6
sc—72 sc.
Round 13: Sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, [sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc] 7 times, sc in next 3
sc—80 sc.
Band Base
Note: The band base rounds are joined with sl st at the end of each round.
Rounds 26–28: Ch 1, working in back loops only, sc in each sc around; join with sl st in first
sc.
Round 30: Sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, [sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc in next sc] 7 times, sc in next 7
sc—88 sc.
Round 31: Sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, [sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in next sc] 7 times, sc in next
5 sc—96 sc.
BAND
With RS facing, join yarn with sl st in free front loop of any sc in Round 25, ch 1, rev sc in each
free front loop around; join with sl st in first sc. Repeat this process, working rev sc in free
front loops of Rounds 26 and 27.
MATERIAL
MATERIALS
Patons Canadiana (100 g/3.5 oz;220
m/241 yds)
Main Color (MC) Dark Grey Mix (00312)
Size 5 mm (U.S. H/8) crochet hook or size
needed to obtain tension.
Note: 2 buttons.
Ch 2 at beg of Round does not count One size to fit average woman's head.
as st.
GAUGE
Beg at crown, ch 3. Join with sl st to 14 sc and 17 rows = 4" [10 cm].
first ch to form a ring.
Pattern:
Round 2: Ch 2. 2 dcfp around each dc around. Join with sl st to first dcfp. 16 sts.
Round 3: Ch 2. *1 dcfp around each of next 2 dcfp. 1 dc in sp between last dcfp and next
dcfp. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to first dcfp. 24 sts.
Round 4: Ch 2. *1 dcfp around next dcfp. 1 dc in sp between last dcfp and next dcfp. 1 dcfp
around next dcfp. 1 dc in next dc. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to first dcfp. 32 sts.
Round 5: Ch 2. *1 dcfp around next dcfp. 1 dc in next dc. 1 dcfp around next dcfp. 2 dc in
next dc. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to first dcfp. 40 sts.
Round 6: Ch 2. *1 dcfp around next dcfp. 2 dc in next dc. 1 dcfp around next dcfp. 1 dc in
each of next 2 dc. Rep from * around. Join with sl st tofirst dcfp. 48 sts.
Round 7: Ch 2. *1 dcfp around next dcfp. 1 dc in each of next 2 dc. 1 dcfp around next dcfp. 2
dc in next dc. 1 dc in next dc. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to first dcfp. 56 sts.
Round 12: Sl st in next st. Ch 3 (counts as dc). Miss next sc. 3 dcfp around dc 2 rows below.
Miss next sc. *1 dc in next sc. Miss next sc. 3 dcfparound dc 2 rows below. Miss next sc. Rep
from * 14 times more. Join with sl st to top of ch 3.
Round 14: Sl st in each of next 2 sts. Ch 3 (counts as dc). Miss next sc. 3 dcfp around dc 2
rows below. Miss next sc. *1 dc in next sc. Miss next sc. 3 dcfp around dc 2 rows below
. Miss next sc. Rep from * 14 timesmore. Join with sl st to top of ch 3.
Rep 13th and 14th Rounds until work from beg measures 8" [20.5 cm], ending on a 14th
Round. Do not fasten off.
Brim: Beg working in rows: 1st row: Ch 1. 1 sc in each of next 46 sc. Turn. Leave rem sc
unworked.
2nd to 10th rows: Ch 1. 1 sc in each sc to end of row. Turn.
Fasten off at end of last row.
FINISHING
Fold Brim of Hat at corners and sew into place with button on each side as shown in photo.
MATERIAL
I crochet hook
Scissors
Abbreviations: Tapestry
Pattern:
Round 1: Using your first color, ch 3. 2 dc into the first ch, ch 1. *dc
cluster into the same stitch, ch 1* 3 times. Sl st to the top of the beginning
ch. You will have four dc clusters and 4 ch 1 spaces at the endof this round.
Round 3: Sl st in the next two stitches and into the ch 1 space. Ch 2, 2 dc into the same ch 1
space. Ch 1, dc cluster into the same ch 1 space. Dc cluster into the space between the clusters
on the previous round. *dc cluster, ch 1, dc cluster in the next ch 1 space. dc cluster into the
space between the clusters on the previous row* around. Sl st to the top of the first ch 2. At
the end of this round you should shave 12 dc clusters and 4 ch 1 spaces.
For all of the remaining rounds, you will be continuing in the same
manner. You will work two double crochet clusters into each corner, with
a ch 1 in between them. You will work 1 dc cluster into each space
between the clusters in the previous round.
When it’s time to change colors, cut your first color and weave ends. Join
your second color in any of the ch 1 spaces. You will then continue the
same pattern with the next color.
Border:
Round 1: hdc around the entire blanket working 3 hdc into each corner stitch. Cut yarn and
weave ends.
Round 2: You’ll now be working a picot edging. Join white yarn using a slip stitch *sc in the
next five stitches, ch 3, hdc in the first chain* around. I like to have a picot in each corner so I
fiddle with the stitches between picots to make that happen. I used to have a cow if the spaces
weren’t exact, but I’ve come to realize that once the blanket is finished, you won’t even notice.
MATERIAL
Measurements:
Abbreviations:
Finished size: 48 ins x 54 ins
ch st chain stitch
Materials:
dc double crochet
hdc half-double crochet
Simply Soft (170 g/6. oz;288
sc single crochet
m/315 yds)
sl st slip stitch
trc triple crochet
Contrast A Dark Sage (9707) - 3
yo yarn over
tr treble crochet
sp space Simply Soft Paints (113 g/4.
sk skip oz;190 m/208 yds)
pat st pattern stitch
Contrast B Spring Break
(0004) - 7
Row 4: Ch 2, sk first dc, dc, hdc, sc, * ch 2, sk 2 ch, sc, hdc, 2 dc, 2 tr, 2 dc, hdc, sc, rep from *
to within last 6 sts, ch 2, sk 2 ch, sc, hdc, 2 dc, changing to CA, turn.
Row 5: With CA, ch 1, 4 sc, * working around ch-2 sps of previous 2 rows, dc in second
skipped sc 3 rows below, working around ch-2 sps of previous 2 rows, dc in first skipped sc 3
rows below (2-dc crossed worked), 10 sc, rep from * to within last 6 sts, 2-dc crossed in
skipped sc 3 rows below, 4 sc, turn.
Row 7: With CB, ch 1, * sc, hdc, 2 dc, 2 tr, 2 dc, hdc, sc, ch 2, sk 2 sc, rep from * to within last
10 sc, sc, hdc, 2 dc, 2 tr, 2 dc, hdc, sc, turn.
Row 8: Ch 1, * sc, hdc, 2 dc, 2 tr, 2 dc, hdc, sc, ch 2, sk 2 ch, rep from * to within last 10 sts,
sc, hdc, 2 dc, 2 tr, 2 dc, hdc, sc, changing to CA, turn.
Row 9: With CA, ch 1, * 10 sc, 2-dc crossed in skipped sc 3 rows below, rep from * to within
last 10 sts, 10 sc, turn.
SIDE TRIM:
Row 1: With CA and with WS facing, ch 1, sc evenly along sides of rows, turn.
MATERIAL
Pattern:
Ch 11.
Round 1: 1 dc in 5th ch from hook (cts as 1st V-st), ch 2, V-st in same ch, ch 1, sk next 2, V-st
in next, ch 1, sk next 2, [V-st, ch 2, V-st, ch 2, V-st] in last ch; working along opposite side of
chain, ch 1, sk 2, V-st in next, ch 1, sk 2, V-st in same ch as 1st st made, ch 2, join in 3rd ch of
beginning ch 4, fasten off.
Round 2: Join new color in next ch-2 corner, [ch 4, 1 dc (counts as V-st), ch 2, V-st] in same
corner, working behind and in the middle of V-st below, dtr2dwn in same chain as next V-st
below was made, *V-st in next ch-1sp, dtr2dwn in same chain as next V-st below, rep from *
once more, [V-st, ch 2, V-st] in ch-2sp, dtr2dwn in same chain as next V-st below, [V-st, ch 2,
V-st] in ch-2sp, dtr2dwn same chain as next V-st below, **V-st in next ch-1sp, dtr2dwn in
same chain as next V-st below, rep from ** once more, [V-st, ch 2, V-st] in ch-2sp, dtr2dwn in
same chain as next V-st below, join in 3rd ch of beginning ch 4, fasten off.
made, rep from ** twice more [V-st, ch 2, V-st] in ch-2sp, dtr2dwn in same ch-sp as next V-st
below, 1 dc in space before next dtr, ch 1, 1 dc in space after next dtr, dtr2dwn in same ch-sp
as next V-st below, join in 3rd ch of beginning ch 4, fasten off.
Round 4: Join new color in next ch-2 corner, [ch 4, 1 dc (counts as V-st), ch 2, V-st] in same
corner, working behind V-st below, dtr2dwn in same ch-sp as next V-st below was made, 1 dc
in space before next dtr, ch 1, 1 dc in space after next dtr, *dtr2dwn in top of dtr below, 1 dc in
space before next dtr, ch 1, 1 dc in
space after next dtr, rep from * twice more, dtr2dwn in same ch-sp as next V-st below was
made, [V-st, ch 2, V-st] in ch-2sp, dtr2dwn in same ch-sp as next V-st below, 1 dc in space
before next dtr, ch 1, 1 dc in space after next dtr, dtr2dwn in top of dtr below,1 dc in space
before next dtr, ch 1, 1 dc in space after next dtr, dtr2dwn in same ch-sp as next V-st below
was made, [V-st, ch 2, V-st] in ch-2sp, dtr2dwn in same ch-sp as next V-st below, 1 dc in space
before next dtr, ch 1, 1 dc in space after next dtr, **dtr2dwn in top of dtr below, 1 dc in space
before next dtr, ch 1, 1 dc in space after next dtr, rep from ** twice more, dtr2dwn in same ch-
sp as next V-st below was made, [V-st, ch 2, V-st] in ch-2sp, dtr2dwn in same ch-sp as next V-
st below, 1 dc in space before next dtr, ch 1, 1 dc in space after next dtr, dtr2dwn in top of dtr
below,1 dc in space before next dtr, ch 1, 1 dc in space after next dtr, dtr2dwn in same ch-sp as
next V-st below was made, join in 3rd ch of beginning ch 4, fasten off.
MATERIAL
Yarn weight
Pattern:
Row 1: Ch 47, sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. (46 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, (sc, 2 dc) in first st, *skip 2 sc, (sc, 2 dc) in next st * across. Sc in last st.
Row 3-33: Ch 1, (sc, 2 dc) in each single crochet across ending with a sc in the last st.
Row 34: sc in each st across. Do not fasten off. Sc evenly around square working 3 sc in each
corner. Fasten off.
Join squares together using a simplified Lattice Technique (origin unknown) as follows:
Round 1: With contrasting color join with a sc in any corner, work 2 more sc in same st,
work 47 sc on each side and work 3 sc in each corner. Join with a slip st.
Round 2: Slip st into corner st. Ch1, (sc, ch 4, sc) in same st. (Ch 3, skip 2 sc, sc in next st)
around, working (sc, ch 4, sc) in each corner st. Slip st to first sc, fasten off.
Lay the squares out in a 3 by 4 pattern. First join squares together to make three long strips
with four squares each. Then join the three strips together to create ghan. Join by making a sc
in corner loop, ch 3, sc in corresponding loop on opposite square. Ch 3, sc in next loop of first
square, ch 3, sc in corresponding loop of opposite square, and so on back and forth.Once
joined, edge entire afghan by working three rounds of (sc, ch 3) in each loop.
MATERIAL
BLANKET:
With A, ch 51.
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in next 8 sts, 4-dc Cl in next st, [sc in next 7 sts, 4-dc Cl in next st] 4
times, sc in next 8 sts.
Row 5: Ch 3 (counts as first dc here and throughout), turn, dc in next st and in each
remaining st across.
Row 7: Ch 1, turn, sc in next 4 sts, 4-dc Cl in next st, [sc in next 7 sts, 4-dc Cl in next st] 5
times, sc in last 4 sts.
Border:
Join A with sc in any stitch, sc evenly around entire blanket, working 4 sc in each corner and
working over carried sections of yarn alongside.
FINISHING:
Weave in ends.
6. Stitch Library
We have given a name for each stitch shown in this stitch library for ease of identification. You may
recognize some of these stitches and know them by a different name. This is because there is no
overall consensus on what stitches ‘should’ be called, but don’t worry: the main point is learning how
to create the stitch.
Abbreviations:
Crochet patterns use abbreviations as shorthand to describe each stitch, and each type of stitch is
abbreviated to a few letters. Many of these abbreviations are the same whatever crochet pattern you
follow. Below you will find a list of all the standard abbreviations that are used throughout this book.
Some of these abbreviations relate to the actual stitches being worked (such as a treble), and some
relate to the way you are working (such as continuing in a certain way).
Special abbreviations:
Some crochet patterns use a special group or combination of crochet stitches to create a
particular effect. This group of stitches will be given a name within the pattern, and this name
will often be abbreviated as well. You will find the special abbreviation detailed with the
pattern it relates to, along with instructions for how this stitch or group of stitches should be
worked. Before you begin, take time to read this special abbreviation so you fully understand
what stitches to work and how to place them for the design you are making. This is