MECHANICAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT

DECEMBER 2018 SESSION

DJA 2022 – AUTOMOTIVE PRACTICE 1

REPORT ASSESMENT SHEET
Evidence of Title,Introduction,Objective /5
Task Skills
Procedure /60

Trouble Shooting / Diagnosis Discussion /25

Conclusion and Recommendation /5

References /5

TOTAL 100

NAME: 1. WAN MOHAMAD AFNAN BIN WAN MOHAMED

2. MUHAMMAD HERRIS BIN HASIM
3. NADZMI HAZIQ BIN NASDRI

REGISTRATION NO: 1. 02DAD18F1054

2. 02DAD18F1062
3. 02DAD18F1074

PROGRAM/CLASS: DAD2A

TASK/GROUP: DISC BRAKE

DATE: 7 JANUARI 2019

 TITLE: REPORT CHASSIS (DISC BRAKE)

INTRODUCTION:

 A disc brake is a type of brake that uses calipers to

squeeze pairs of pads against a disc in order to
create friction that retards the rotation of a shaft,
such as a vehicle axle, either to reduce its rotational
speed or to hold it stationary. The energy of motion
is converted into waste heat which must be
dispersed. Hydraulic disc brakes are the most
commonly used form of brake for motor vehicles but
the principles of a disc brake are applicable to almost
any rotating shaft components.
OBJECTIVE
- The brakes are one of the most important control components of
vehicle. They are required to stop the vehicle within the smallest
possible distance and this is done by converting the kinetic energy of
the vehicle into the heat energy which is dissipated into the
atmosphere.

In our vehicle, two disc brakes are used on the front axle to be more
effective and drum brake on rear axle assisting to slow or stop the
vehicle instantly after applying the brakes. Tandem master cylinder is
used as a master cylinder in our vehicle because the tandem master
cylinder transforms applied brake force into hydraulic pressure which is
transferred to the wheel units through two separate Circuits. This
provides residual braking in the event of fluid loss.

PROCEDURE
1) Car disc brake
2) Open Brake Pads and Open Piston
We need to open the calliper to access the brake pads. There are two bolts that
hold the caliper in place. You only need to remove one of them to be able to
rotate the caliper away from the rotor. The brake line is usually short enough that
you will typically want to remove the lower bolt and rotate the caliper up as
shown in the photos. On some vehicles the caliper will rest in open position on its
own. However, on this vehicle it wanted to fall back closed so I had to hold it open
by hand.

Remove the bolt and the caliper should rotate up. You may need to use a second
wrench on the caliper bolt bushing to keep it from spinning. If it rotates with the
bolt, then you are not loosening the bolt yet. Some brake pads have small rivets
on the back that might catch on the edge of the piston. If this happens and you
cannot rotate the caliper, you may need to use a wrench, screw driver, etc. to try
to compress the piston enough to clear the rivets. To avoid risk of damaging
hydraulic components, open the bleeder screw on the back of the caliper before
compressing the piston.

With the caliper open, you can pull the old pads away from the rotor and remove
them from the brake assembly. As the pads wear, the piston continues to rest in a
more "closed" position. This process forces some of the brake fluid in the
hydraulic system back into the master cylinder. You can use alternative tools to
compress the piston.

3) Installing Brake Pads

Now we are ready to put the pads in place. There is typically a pair of notches,
top and bottom, that small tabs on each end of the pads will seat into. As shown
in the photos seat one tab in the bottom notch, the rotate the pad into place and
press into the upper tab into its notch. Repeat on the inside brake pad. Just make
sure you are installing the pads in the same way you saw them before you
started. On this specific vehicle, the inside and outside pads were identical.

You can apply some brake lubricant to the piston, bushings, bolts, etc. to improve
the life of the system. Do not apply lubricant on the friction surface of the pads or
rotors. The caliper bolt we removed could just some lubricant as well.

4) Close up the Caliper

With the pads in place, you are ready to close the caliper. Rotate it back down
into position. You might need to press in caliper bolt bushing and/or jostle the
caliper in or out to fit over the thick brake pads. Once you have the caliper lined
up, reinsert the bolt and tighten it back in place. You might need to use a second
wrench again to hold the bushing in place while tightening the bolt.

TROUBLE SHOOTING/DIAGNOSIS DISCUSSION:

The brakes on your car are probably the most important system, and due to the
difficult job they do and how often they are used, they are also one of the most
likely to wear and need service. Even when everything is working properly with
your brakes, and nothing is worn out, they can suddenly start making
disconcerting noises or develop a shudder under use. Modern cars use a power
assist (vacuum or otherwise) hydraulic system, with disc brakes on the front
wheels, and discs or drums on the back. All modern cars come with sophisticated
antilock braking systems (ABS) and brake based stability control, which
complicates some aspects of troubleshooting and repair, but those systems will
inform you when there is a problem and default to the old, simple system. There
is also typically a separate, mechanical parking/emergency brake, either cable or
electrically operated, that works only on the rear wheels.

So there few problems we found in using disc brake:

•Brakes not working well=Even today, your brakes can fail completely, but there
are failsafe built into the system to prevent that from happening in most cases.

•Brakes hanging up or dragging=The other major way brakes act up is when they
fail to disengage completely in one way or another. A common symptom of this
type of braking issue is a burning smell from the amount of heat the hung up
brake generates. Seldom does this result in a car that won't move at all, but
driving with the brakes dragging is unsafe and will result in even more damage in
a short amount of time if not repaired.

•Squealing/howling/squeaking noise=Typically, an annoying high pitched noise

coming from the brakes is the metal "wear indicator" tabs, meant to alert you
when there is less than 25% of the pad left. Sometimes brakes can become noisy
because of a glaze on the pads from stop and go traffic. Finally, because of the
different friction materials, manufacturer tolerances, and random wear factors,
pads can suddenly start making noise because they resonate in the range they
vibrate at during use.

•Shudder/vibration/pulsing under hard or repeated braking= This is caused by

warped/bent rotors, or sometimes just from a localized build-up of pad material
on the rotor surface

CONCLUSION & RECOMMENDATION

Conclusion
• The disc brake has its own advantages and one of them is easy inspection. The
car owner does not have to remove the wheels in order to look at the disc brake
system. This brake system also has better stopping power than the drum brake.
The disc brakes are completely self-adjusting and because this type of brake is so
common there’s a wide selection of disc brake pads from which to choose. There
are disc brake conversion kits available for anybody who wants to change over
the drum brakes to the more efficient disc system.

• The most apparent disadvantage is that disc brakes are much more prone to
noise. Their design tends to create squeals and squeaks, which can be very
annoying. Many technician has spent time servicing perfectly functional disc
brakes due to excessive noise complaints.

Recommendation

The brake disc system is better than drum brake system. It is because the disc
brake is totally exposed to outside air so it will reduce heat.

There is some solution for the troubleshooting:

•Brakes hanging up or dragging= changing a brake calliper is not a hard job, and
can be accomplished in about an hour.

•Squealing/howling/squeaking noise= Resurfacing the rotors, grinding them

smooth and flat again, can fix the issue if it isn't too bad, but often warped rotors
got that way because they were overheated, and they will warp again when
heated.

•Shudder/vibration/pulsing under hard or repeated braking= can be fixed with a

few hard applications of the brakes to clean it off or Anti-squeal paste also can
help.
REFERENCES
 https://haynes.com/en-us/tips-tutorials/troubleshooting-common-brake-
issues-and-cause
 https://www.researchgate.net/publication/267406127_A_LABORATORY_B
RAKE_FOR_THE_STUDY_OF_AUTOMOTIVE_BRAKE_NOISE
 https://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-parts/brakes/brake-types/disc-
brake1.htm
 https://www.britannica.com/technology/disk-brake