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10 True Repair Case

Histories of LCD Monitors
Volume I

Brought to you by Jestine Yong

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1. No Power in Acer V203H 20” LCD Monitor………………...4

2. No Power in Dell 19”X 193W LCD Monitor…………………7

3. No Power In Dell 19” E198WFPF LCD Monitor…………..14

4. No Power in HP 2009F 20” LCD Monitor…………………..18

5. No Power in Viewsonic VA1901WM 19” LCD Monitor……25

6. White Display In Acer 17” AL1717A LCD Monitor………..29

7. Display Shutdown After Few Minutes In HP L1706 17” LCD


8. Display Shutdown After Few Seconds In Samsung 22” 2233sw

LCD Monitor…………………………………………………..37

9. Power Blinks with Display On/Off Intermittently and Key

Locked Problem in Dell E173fpb LCD Monitor ….………...46

10. Missing OSD Menu in Benq 19” Q9W LCD Monitor……....51

11. Conclusion……………………………………………………..56

12. Recommended Electronics Repairing Related Information..57

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1) No Power in Acer V203H 20” LCD

The Monitor came in with no power symptom. As usual the first thing to
check is the main fuse and I found it to be open circuited. Whenever if the
main fuse have problem, I will pay more attention on semiconductors to
see if there is any crack or burn in the semiconductors outer area. Since
this power supply area is small and contain fewer components, I could
easily notice that the power IC already burnt.

The power board number is 4H.0UH02.A21

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Since the fuse and power IC already have problem thus I have to check
all the components in the primary side because sometimes the burnt
power IC could cause other corresponding components to go bad too.
Bridge rectifier, big filter capacitor, thermistor, non ceramic capacitor,
primary winding of power transformer and even secondary output diodes
all checked to be good except the current sense resistor in the primary
side. The value of the current sense resistor had changed from 0.47 Ohm
to 0.54 Ohm. If you are weak in testing electronic components then you
can get my ebook on how to accurately test electronic components:

Normal digital multimeter can’t detect very low Ohm resistor and it has
to be tested by using a low ohm meter or Blue ESR meter.

Note: If you did not replace this resistor, the output voltages will drop 30
to 50%. For example, the normal output voltage of 12 volt could only
measure 9 to 10 volt instead of 12 volt. Sometimes it can cause power
blinks too. Pay special attention to this low ohm resistor whenever you
found a shorted power IC or power FET in any switch mode power

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After the replacement of the main fuse (2 amperes slow blow fuse), 0.47
ohm resistor and the power IC (STRW6262), the LCD Monitor came
back to life. For your information I bought the power IC from Ebay.com
and the cost was USD18.00.

Note: If you want to be really good in troubleshooting and repairing

switch mode power supply you can get my ebook about power supply
repair at:


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2) No Power In DELL 19”X 193W
LCD Monitor
The complaint was no power. As usual we need to think of a way to
remove the cover first before we could see the board. Remove the two
small covers located near the side of the base. Once the 4 screws had
been removed you could now apply some force to lift up the bottom front
cover. Once it is opened you then can open the side of the cover.

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Since the complaint was no power, I focused on the power side. I did not
see any bulged caps and it seems that all components are intact. In order
to know if the primary section or the secondary section have problem I
check the secondary side to see if there is any output voltages.
Surprisingly there were voltages but the voltages were a bit low. The 5
volt rail have only 3.3 volt while the 14 volt rail have about 7.7 volt.

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In this case, it could be the power supply itself have problem or the
mainboard/inverter board have components shorted that pulls down the
voltages. I began to isolate the problem by removing the mainboard.
Once the mainboard was removed the 3.3 volt slowly rise back to 5 volt
while the 7.7 volt to 14 volt.

Note: a good power supply should have the voltages rise up very fast but
in the above case, it slowly rise which I think was a bit abnormal.

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In this situation, the mainboard and the power supply still can be a
suspect. In order to guess which board having problem I used an external
adjustable dc power supply to make a test. I connected the 5 volt from the
external power supply to the mainboard 3.3 v and 1.8 v voltage regulator
ICs to see if there are output or not.

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If there is no output in either one of the voltage regulator ICs we know
that there must be something shorted. The result was both voltage
regulator ICs produced good and stable output voltages. So this means it
is not the mainboard that had pulled down the power supply output
voltages. It was the power supply itself that cannot sustain the
current draw.

I did not suspect the inverter board because once the main board was
removed the output voltages slowly risen back to normal. If the
mainboard was removed and the output voltages still remain the same
(low output) then I will suspect the inverter board.

For your information there are not many components in the power side. I
have checked the Optoisolator IC, direct replaced the TL431 IC, checked
all e-caps with ESR meter, checked power FET and secondary diodes and
even have direct replaced the 0.22 ohm current sense resistor. The
outcome was still the same which was low output voltage.

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The only component that I have not replaced was the EA1530A SMD 8
pins power IC. Since I do not have the parts, I ordered it from
http://www.logictoyz.com and it reached my office in 5 days (I used DHL

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The power IC was replaced with the help of a rework station. You can
remove the SMD Power IC with normal solder gun if you wanted to.
Once the replacement was done I powered On the monitor and the LCD
monitor came back to life!

Note: If the output filter capacitors at the secondary power supply side
have high ESR Ohm, the output voltage also could go low. Please take
note on this.

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3) No Power In Dell 19” E198WFPF
LCD Monitor
Three LCD Monitors came in with the same problem which was no
power. As usual once the covers have been removed I checked on the
main fuse and it was found to be good. I then checked on the output
voltages with power On. The output voltages were good and stable so my
focus now is in the SMD voltage regulator 3.3 and 1.8 volts ICs in the
mainboard. Surprisingly both output voltages were also good and stable.

Note: For your information the power LED light signal is coming from
the MCU and if the mainboard have problem the power LED will not
light up. Not necessary when the power LED did not light up must be the
problem of power supply.

In this case the problem is either in the MCU/EEPROM/Flash memory

ICs or the front panel button or front panel circuit board have problem.
Since front panel control board is easier to check than the Mainboard thus
I focused on this board first. When I looked at the small front control
board there were some rusty parts especially near the 3 small screws.
Careful inspection with my X4 magnifying glass I saw some of the track
had broken as seen from the below picture.

Since this small board have tiny circuit track I can’t use my Hakko 981
solder gun to do the job. You need a solder gun that has a small solder
tip. I used Antex with the smallest head tip to do the job.

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First, remove or gently scrap away the outer layer of the circuit track so
that the copper part can be exposed. Now, apply some solder on the
circuit track and the tiny wire first before joining them together.

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Note: The tiny wire I took it from cable wire and you could see lots of
tiny wire in it.

After joining the two points you need to clean it with Thinner solution
and make sure this Thinner did not touch on the front panel plastic cover
otherwise it will melt. Once everything is done, place the front panel
back to its location and cover the top circuit board with black tape to
prevent the rusty metal casing of LCD panel from touching the 3 small
screws. The LCD monitor worked perfectly good without having to
replace the whole front panel board.

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When you do this kind of repair work you have to be patience because
soldering tiny things is not easy as compare to troubleshooting the bigger
components like replacing the capacitors and etc.

Conclusion- If all the voltages in the mainboard check to be good then

you should either concentrate your troubleshooting on the
MCU/EEPROM/Flash Memory ICs or the front control panel.
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4) No Power In HP 2009F 20” LCD


Monitor came in with no power symptom. As usual one needs to open the
cover in order to access the circuit boards. There are so many LCD
Monitors in the market and I could say that this HP Model and the family
series have one of the toughest LCD covers to open. It is very difficult to
open this model cover if you are new to this model and many repair
technicians had broken the cover.

Before you remove the cover, you must remove the monitor base and the
small back square cover first as seen from the photo in the next page.

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For other types of LCD Monitor cover you usually will open the back
cover first-am I right? But for this model you have to remove the front
cover first and not the back cover. Apply some gentle force to lift up the
front cover as seen from the photo below.

If you afraid that the cover will break then don’t put too much force on
lifting the front cover instead use a flat type screw driver and press on the
small rectangular hole in either one side of the cover-see the photo again
in the next page.

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Once the cover is opened you can starts to check on the power board for
any bulged e-caps and etc. Since there were no bulged e-caps, I checked
on the fuse and found it to be good as well. Using my analog meter, set to
x 1 ohm and checks on the secondary output diodes I found that both the
diodes have shorted reading. For your information the diodes are
connected parallel and one of them has shorted reading and the part
number was SR520 and it was a Schottky diode.

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Since I do not have this diode I used MBRF20100 Schottky diode
(3 pins) as replacement. If you look at the photo in the next page you
could actually see that the board already has holes for the 3 pins Schottky
diode and heatsink leg holes.

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Fortunately I found a heatsink where I could place the 3 pins Schottky
diode onto the board-see the photo in the next page.

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After everything was installed I turned on the LCD Monitor and it was
working fine. I put it for burn in test on my office table for many days
and there was no problem.

Conclusion-Usually I will use only original part number as replacement.

Since I do not have the part, I have to use the 3 pins package as
substitution. Before the replacement I have actually checked on the
original Schottky diode data (SR520) and it was rated as 20 volts 5
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ampere but the MBRF20100 has 100 volts with 10 amperes on each
diode inside the package. For your information, the no power symptom in
this LCD Monitor is a common fault which means there are many units
that came in with the same fault and replacement part.

Note: I bought the MBRF20100 schottky diode from


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5) No Power in Viewsonic
VA1901WM 19” LCD Monitor

LCD Monitor came in with no power symptom. As usual one needs to

open the cover in order to access the circuit boards. In order to
successfully open this Monitor cover, you must remove the two small
covers at the sides of the base as seen from the below photo. You have to
slide it out and not to pull it out.

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The first thing I do in any no power case was to check on the main fuse
and scan to see if there are any bulge electrolytic capacitors. There were
no burnt components in the power supply board and looked “clean”. The
fuse checked to be good so my next component to check were the big
filter capacitor, primary winding of power transformer and the 4 pieces
of secondary output diodes. These are the procedure for me to check on
those components once I found the main fuse to be good. All of the above
components checked to be good. I did not check on the bridge rectifier
because the main fuse was good.

Note: Make sure you discharge the big filter capacitor first before
checking it with your ESR meter.

As for the power FET, I have to remove it to check off board for accuracy
purpose. An open or leaky power FET can’t be tested on board. It may
give you a false reading so the best is to check it off board. The power
FET also tested good when checked off board.

Now, left only the SMD resistors and capacitors that I have not check yet.
So I proceeded to check on the Start up SMD resistors. Both start up
resistors found to be good too.

Note: Did you observe that I did not use the voltage testing method to do
the troubleshooting? I mean to check on the big filter capacitor and the
supply voltage to the power IC-why? Repairing is a dynamic thing and
you always have a choice to use whatever way to troubleshoot an

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electronic circuit. I did not download the power IC schematic because
from experience, whenever if the fuse is good and no other bad
components in the corresponding circuit the biggest suspect will be the
power IC.

I have the power IC (OB2269CP) in stock and I bought it from

http://www.iccfl.com. Once the power IC was replaced the two secondary
output voltages came back. The outputs were 5volts and 14 volts and I
could test it without connecting to the mainboard.

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Conclusion-It is not tough to troubleshoot any LCD monitor power
supply. If you have good skills in testing electronic components together
with some good test meters and know where to find parts, your chances
of success will be very high. Remember, I have not even mention of “On”
board voltage checking, Scope troubleshooting and understanding
schematic diagram. Your repair rate will shoot to the roof if you know all
the above methods.

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6) White Display In Acer 17”
AL1717A LCD Monitor

Monitor came in with the complaint of white display. White display

problem can be caused by bad output voltages from power supply, faulty
mainboard, bad LCD panel and loose cable connection between the
mainboard and the LCD panel. The easiest to check is the cable
connection and I found it to be intact. Testing the output voltages of the
power supply with my voltmeter found the voltages to be good and there
were no bad e-caps. So the suspect was on mainboard and the LCD panel.

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From past repair experiences, if there is no supply voltage to the LCD
panel controller board the display will become white.

Checking the mainboard on board was quite difficult because it was

covered by the metal shielding. What I’ve done, I removed the power
supply board, mainboard and the front panel control board and placed it
on a sponge pad. The mainboard was exposed and it is easy to perform
the voltage test.

Upon turning on the monitor, I could see from behind the LCD panel that
it was bright. This means it has a white display problem. When I touched
on the MCU in the mainboard I found it to be quite hot but not extreme
hot. There were two voltage regulator ICs i.e. AS1117-3.3 (output is 3.3
volt) and AS1117- 1.8 (output is 1.8 volt).

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Good result was obtained when checking on the 3.3 volt regulator IC but
the 1.8 volt IC had an output of 3.41 volt! It supposed to have 1.8 volt
output! This voltage was too high causing the MCU to run HOT.

I have the 1.8 volt IC in stock but the part number was EH13A. The
EH13A is the same with AZ1117-1.8 (1.8 volt output) after checking the
information from the Internet. Please see the information in the next page.

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I removed the 1.8 volt SMD IC with the help of SMD rework station.
After the replacement was done and the power was applied the output of
the IC was 1.8 volt and crystal clear picture can be seen from the screen.

Conclusion- No matter what type of LCD Monitor mainboard you are

repairing always check the output of the voltage regulator ICs. For your
information 3.3 volt and 1.8 volt voltage regulator ICs breakdown are
quite common in LCD Monitors. Besides white display problem,
sometimes the bad 1.8 volt IC could cause the display to be distorted with
many horizontal lines across the screen. You have to take note on this.

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7) Display Shutdown After Few
Minutes In HP L1706 17” LCD
I noticed that this LCD Monitor already been repaired by my customer.
There were some fresh solder marks on the circuit board especially the
secondary side of the power supply. I suspect that he changed the two
bulged filter capacitors and when the LCD monitor still having problem
of display shutdown after few minutes he put back the bad capacitors.
The reason I said that was because he was also a repair technician but
only specializes in Printer Repairs.

After I have replaced the two filter capacitors, the LCD Monitor still
don’t work. I believe there must be some other components that had
caused the LCD Monitor to shutdown after few minutes. So I began to
trace along the output line and noticed a SMD diode SX34 had a small
cracked (please see the photo below).

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When I tested it with my Ohmmeter set to x 10 k Ohm, it registered no
reading on both ways. In other word, this SMD diode was open circuit.
From the datasheet that I’ve got from the Internet, the SX34 was a 40
volts, 3 amperes Schottky Diode.

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This small SMD diode was part of the Buck DC converter circuit in the
secondary side of the LCD Monitor. The part number for the buck circuit
IC was AP1506 and it was very hot due to the open circuit of the SMD
diode. The output voltage measured at the Buck circuit was not constant.
It was fluctuating and this had caused the MCU in the mainboard to stop
working. That is why the LCD Monitor shutdown after few minutes.

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Since I do not have the SMD diode original part number for replacement
I put in UF5404 (400 volts, 3 amperes) as a test. It turns out to be
working fine after burn in for long hour. And the AP1506 IC runs warm
and not too hot to be touched. In this repair I only replaced the two filter
capacitors and a diode.

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8) Display Shutdown After Few
Seconds In Samsung 22” 2233sw
LCD Monitor
The complaint of this 22” LCD Monitor was display shutdown after 1 to
2 seconds. Whenever this kind of problem happen, the first thing in my
mind to check were
1) Bulged filter capacitors in secondary side.
2) Dry joints in high voltage transformer pins
3) Bad high voltage transformer (resistance value changed or shorted
windings in secondary winding ) and
4) Backlight (one of the backlights could have problem)

If you want to try opening this LCD monitor cover, always start from the
bottom first. Remove the screw at both the left and right side and then
start to gently peel out the bottom cover with a flat metal. Once opened,
you can start to open the side cover and eventually lift out the whole front

The first thing I saw on the power/inverter board was a dark patch in the
high voltage transformer area. But when I checked on the high voltage
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transformer with my blue ring tester and with Ohm test on secondary
winding it was found to be good. There were no dry joints in the high
voltage transformer pins. The electrolytic capacitors looked good too!
The only suspect now could be one of the backlights have problem.
In order to test the backlight, the fastest way is to use another good
working backlight for comparison. I have a good 22” backlight in my
store and after tested it on the faulty LCD Monitor I found one of the
bottom backlight have problem.

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Note: I did try to use a 17” LCD panel that have a built in backlight to
test on the faulty LCD Monitor and the faulty LCD Monitor worked and
did not shutdown. This means you can try to use a 17” LCD Monitor
backlight to test on a 19”, 21” and even 22” LCD Monitor assuming if
you do not have stock for the bigger inches of LCD Monitor backlights.
If it is confirmed to be working you then can order the parts. For your
information you can order the backlights from http://www.iccfl.com

You have to pay special attention when replacing the backlight. You have
to do it the gentle way otherwise if the TCP package at the side broken
then it will cause a big horizontal bar across the screen. If you are
replacing the top backlight then pay special attention to the LCD
controller board TCP package that link to the LCD panel. If it is broken it
could cause vertical line or even vertical bar with few inches wide.

The first thing you need to do is to check if there is any small screw, if
there are screws then you need to remove it first before you peel out the
aluminum casing. In this LCD Monitor, I found only a small screw and
then I slowly peeling off the front metal cover and back aluminum cover
with the help of my small flat screw driver until I could see the backlight.

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Note: Please do not use great force and don’t try to pull out the backlight
because some backlights could easily break at the tip. If the backlight is
broken then you need to move away from it for a while and quickly wash
your hand. A broken backlight is very harmful to our health due to the
mercury content found inside the backlight. Once the metal cover in the
front and back aluminum cover has been lifted up, the backlight will be
exposed. Now you can gently pull it out from the LCD panel (remember-
don’t pull it out with great force because I have broken a few, trust me).

If you have the same exact backlight for replacement then it is an easy
job. Just replace and close back the panel and your job is done. What if
the replacement backlight is slightly wider in width? You have to think of
a way to fit in the backlight. In my case the replacement backlight is
slightly thicker due to the two backlights wires were located behind the
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“L” shape metal. The original one had both the backlights wires at the
side and not underneath it. Because of this, I have a hard time to close the
aluminum cover back. If I force it in, the wires will be surely
broken/crushed by the aluminum cover.

Remember, when working on backlights; please do not apply pressure on

any points. The only way to solve this is to cut away part of the
aluminum cover so that it can be closed. I could now easily fit in the

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replacement backlight and I used the aluminum foil tape to cover and
secure it as seen from the photo below.

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You can get the aluminum foil tape from http://www.iccfl.com

Note: Make sure no dust or debris enters inside the LCD screen otherwise
user could notice some black dots (especially white background) in the
screen once it is turned on.
When you order the backlights, they usually come in a pair.

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This means one for the top and the other for the bottom. The question
now is should you replace the top backlight also if you found only the
bottom backlight have problem or vice versa?

This is very subjective. Backlights have life span thus if the bottom
backlight have problem generally the top backlight also would not last
long. If you would like to replace the top backlight also then you must
take into consideration of your cost and there might be a chance that you
may break the top LCD controller TCP package. If it is broken that’s the
end of the LCD Monitor.

In many cases, a replacement only one backlight (either the top or

bottom) the LCD monitor could still last.
In this repair case, I did not replace the top backlight and just hope that
the LCD Monitor will last. If it comes back for warranty claim then the
only choice I have is to replace the top backlight free for the customer.

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Conclusion- Keep some spare backlights for future use and for
troubleshooting purposes. You can keep a pair of backlight for 15”, 17”,
19”, 21”, 22” and even a 24” backlight.

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9) Power Blinks With Display On/Off
Intermittently And Key Locked
Problem In Dell E173fpb LCD

When you see the power LED blinks this mean that the problem can be
caused by the power side or the mainboard. In order to confirm which
section is actually giving the problem one needs to test the output
voltages from the power supply. If the output voltages are good and
stable then we know the problem is in the mainboard. If the output
voltages fluctuate then we know the problem is in the power supply side.
In the above case, sometimes you can’t power it on and you need to plug
and unplug the main ac few times then only the power LED will lights up
and display will appear.

Once you could see the display (before the display shutdown again) and
when you press some of the front control buttons especially the MENU
button you could see a LOCKED symbol in the center of the display.
There was no OSD menu appears.

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Note: Power LED signal is coming from the MCU of the mainboard. If
the MCU or related components have problem in the mainboard the MCU
will send an error signal to the power LED thus you see a blinking power

In the above case I have checked with my voltmeter and found that the
output voltages from the power supply are good and stable. I’ve got
stable 5 volt, 3.3 and even 1.8 volt in the mainboard. For your
information if there is a slight increase or decrease in output voltage from
voltage regulator ICs, the performance of the mainboard will be affected.
The output voltages have to be within the tolerance range.
Since now the voltages found to be steady then there are few possibilities
that I can suspect on this monitor:

2) Bad MCU
3) Bad corresponding components in the mainboard
4) Bad control board

Note: I did not suspect voltage regulator ICs in the mainboard since they
already have good output voltages.
Before I start to investigate the problem in 1,2 and 3 I will check on item
4 first since this is the easiest one to diagnose.

Mainboard have a memory chip which is the EEPROM IC. This

EEPROM IC will remember the last action that you have taken and save
it. Whenever you turn on a LCD Monitor the EEPROM IC will execute
the last action before the power is turn off. With this in mind it is easy to
confirm if the control panel is faulty or not.
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Now turn the set On and see if the display will appear or not. If it appears
(before shutting down again) then quickly turn off the main AC and then
pull out the control panel connector from the mainboard. Once you
are done, turn the monitor On again and see if there is any display (by
right it should have display because the EEPROM IC will save the last
action before the power was turned off) and yes I did see a display. I left
the display on for a minute or two and it was stable and it did not
shutdown! I could conclude now that the problem was in the control
panel board.

Note: If the display still shutting down intermittently then we know that
the problem is in the mainboard and it can be the problem in item 1,2 or

My concentration now is in the control board because it already proven

that by removing the front panel cable from the mainboard the display
appeared. There were 4 push buttons (micro switch) in the board and
when I used my analog meter set to x 10 k ohm to check on board the
pins of the buttons I found one (On/Off button) shorted and the other two
have leakage.

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Leakage means even I did not press the button there was a slight reading
in the Ohm range. A good button should not show any Ohm reading if the
button is not pressed.

Replacement of the 3 push buttons solved the problem.

Actually you are not done yet. Yes the monitor can be turned On and
have a stable display with no more power LED blinking problem. But the
moment you press on the MENU button the same “Locked” picture came
out again. In order to solve the problem, press the MENU button (with
power already on) for 20 to 30 seconds and another picture of

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“Unlocked” will appear. Now you can begin to use the LCD Monitor like
normal again.

Note: Assuming if the control board does not have faulty components
then I suggest that you check all the SMD capacitors/resistors at the
mainboard control board connector area as seen from photo below.

Note: Some control panel board have SMD resistors/capacitors built into
it. In this LCD Monitor, it consists only of 4 micro switches.

Conclusion- Any component shorted in the control panel or in the

mainboard could cause the LCD Monitor would not start or have
intermittent blinking with/without display. Not necessary it must be the
fault of bad MCU or the EEprom IC.

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10) Missing OSD Menu in Benq 19”
Model Q9W LCD Monitor

Initial complaint was no power and it was solved by replacing two

1000uf 16 volt filter capacitors at the secondary side of power supply. I
thought I have solved the problem but when power on the LCD Monitor,
the display appeared to be fine except no OSD menu. There were 7
control buttons and only the Input and the On/Off button were
functioning. Pressing other buttons no OSD menu appears. I have
checked the continuity of the cable between the front panel and the
mainboard and it was working fine.

Even all the 7 buttons (microswitch) were tested good using Ohmmeter.
This confirms that the mainboard have problem. It can be caused by
either a bad MCU or EEPROM data. However, in this repair case the
EEPROM was the cause of the problem.

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How do you know the EEPROM IC was at fault?

Usually when you power on a working LCD Monitor the display will
appear and when you pull out the AC cable and connect it back the
MCU/EEPROM IC will remember the last action thus it will
automatically power On the LCD Monitor once you put back the AC
cable (even without pressing the On/Off button).

Note: You can try this on a working LCD Monitor.

In this repair case, the LCD Monitor did not power On by itself after I
had pulled out and insert the AC cable back. That’s why I suspect the
EEPROM IC have problem.

Another way to confirm if the EEPROM was the cause of the problem is
by removing it from the board and power On. If there is no EEPROM IC
in the mainboard, then the MCU will take over the job of EEPROM IC.
So now the power was On and I pulled out the AC cable and placed it
back guess what? The power On by itself and the display appeared.

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Note: This MCU part number is MTV152GMG. Please be reminded not
all MCU can take over the job of EEPROM IC. This means in certain
model, once the EEPROM IC is removed there will be no power/display
at all when you turn on the LCD Monitor. The part number of the
EEPROM IC is 24C04.

Since this model MCU could take over the job of the EEPROM IC this
means it has the ability to copy out the programs in it to a blank
EEPROM IC. So in this case, you do not need the original EEPROM
hex file to work.

Usually when an EEPROM IC have problem, the main cause was the data
itself and not the physical IC. In order to solve the above problem, you
can either get a new blank EEPROM IC or have the original EEPROM IC
data be totally erased by using an EEPROM programmer.

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After making the original EEPROM IC to become blank I soldered it
back to the mainboard and power ON the LCD Monitor. The OSD menu
immediately appeared once the menu button was pressed.

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11) Conclusion
I strongly suggest you to reread this information for few times and start
right away all of the tips and tricks you have learned from this E-book.

If you have questions about LCD Monitor Repairs, please do not hesitate
to email me at


I wish you all the best and look forward to hearing your success story.

To your success,

Jestine Yong
Bsc. Eng UK
Author of “10 True Case Histories Of LCD Monitors”


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11) Recommended Electronics
Repairing Related Information

1. Samuel M. Goldwasser “Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ”. Here is the

website link http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/

2. List of Electronic Spare Parts Suppliers at JestineYong.com. Here

is the website link

3. LCD TVs, LCD Monitors, Laptops and Plasma TVs spare part
supplier: http://www.iccfl.com

4. List Of Schematic Diagram Websites:


Electronics Repair Ebooks

1) Power Supply Repair

2) Testing Electronic Components
3) Electronics Repair Articles
4) LCD Monitor Repair
5) Laptop Repair for Beginners
6) Laptop Motherboard Repair
7) Laptop Repair Video Course
8) Basic Electronics
10) LCD TV Repair Tips
11) CRT TV Repair
13) DVD Player Repair
14) Find Burnt Resistor Value
15) Plasma Television Repair
16) Basic LaserJet Printer Repair
17) Epson Dot Matrix Repair
18) Mobile Phone Repair
19) Automobile Electronics Repair
20) Computer Repair Mastery Course

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Electronics Repair Website-Free Monthly Repair Newsletter

1) www.ElectronicRepairGuide.com

Electronics Repair Membership Websites

1) www.ElectronicRepairGuide.com/Recommend/PlasmaTelevisionR
2) www.ElectronicRepairGuide.com/Recommend/LCDTelevisionRep
3) www.ElectronicRepairGuide.com/Recommend/ProjectionTelevisio


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