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“The message
this spring?
Regulars Let your
41 Editor’s letter silhouette
52 Notices speak volumes”
Behind the scenes of the issue Taking shape, page 146
56 Vogue.co.uk
Introducing our columnists
131 Checklist
Muted hues and how to wear them
222 Stockists
Vogue trends
67 Modern way
This season’s coat? It’s a long story…
72 On your bike
Cycling shorts go off-road. The
question is, are you brave enough?
75 Square up
Spring’s shoe shape has some Leather cape,
serious edge £3,250. Cotton
dress, £1,390.
76 Check republic Both Valentino.
Clueless-style plaids are back. Mix Hand-carved
and match for maximum impact wooden choker,
£854. Hand-carved
wooden necklace,
80 Power pockets £1,587. Both Parts
It’s a hoarder’s dream come true – of Four. Wool and
pockets become a fashion statement leather cap, £230,
Noel Stewart
83 ON THE COVER
DAVID SIMS
Play ball
The chic globe-shaped bags making 84 Look, no hands 96 Heart strings
our world go round Once the preserve of tourists, belt Cellist Kelsey Lu on the emotional
bags become the accessory du jour significance of her debut album
85 Back to black Vogue living
Bags for the fashion ascetic: any
101 Life & style
colour so long as it’s…
COVER LOOK 88 Vogue Darling
Summer picks by Julia Sarr-Jamois
Naomi Scott A peek into the universe of VMA- 103 Artistic stronghold
wears silk-satin
winning choreographer Sherrie Silver A fairytale castle has become the
top, £1,020. Satin
headband, £170.
Scottish bolthole of an art-world
Both Prada. Diamond power couple. By Talib Choudhry.
earring, price on
Jewellery & watches Photographs by Kate Martin
request, Cartier.
90 Zip code
Get the look: 109 On the rise
make-up by Peter Close of play: the Van Cleef & Arpels
Forget carb-shaming – well-made
Philips for Dior Zip necklace gets a fun addition
Makeup using the bread has gained superfood status,
Backstage Collection discovers Julia Llewellyn Smith
Dior Lip Glow in 92 It’s our time
Coral and Dior As watch collecting grows in Mr Vogue
Backstage Glow
Face Palette. Hair
popularity among women, Rachel 111 Amazing pace
by Sam McKnight Garrahan examines the inner Footballer Héctor Bellerín is ahead
using Hair by Sam workings of the movement of his times, finds Ellie Pithers
McKnight Multi-Task
Styling Mist. Nails:
Marian Newman. Arts & culture Viewpoint
Set design: Andrew
Tomlinson. Digital 94 Her own mistress 115 Hold the moment
artwork: Epilogue After a difficult year, Suranne Jones Sharon Stone, Pandora Delevingne,
Imaging. Styling: talks to Rebecca Nicholson about Diane von Furstenberg, Slick Woods
Kate Phelan.
Photograph: finding freedom in her latest TV role. and Vogue’s Sarah Harris share their
Nick Knight Photographs by Chloé Le Drezen experiences of new motherhood > 32
27
CONTENTS Face sculpture, Yunus & Eliza.
Gold and diamond choker,
£5,934, Diane Kordas. Gold,
diamond and emerald
necklace. Coral, onyx and
diamond necklace. Both
“This season’s Cartier. Bracelets: right arm,
yellow- and white-diamond,
Vogue tech
120 My digital health
Model and actress Jourdan Dunn on 158 ON THE COVER brights. Photographs by Charlotte
the tech that helps her wellbeing “I am not an English rose” Wales. Styling by Poppy Kain
Londoner Naomi Scott is on the cusp
Spotlight 202 Digestive aid
of worldwide stardom in her role as
Could a revolutionary new probiotic
124 This is America Disney’s remodelled Princess Jasmine.
supplement help us live longer? When
Is Pyer Moss’s founder Kerby By Sophie Heawood. Photographs by
it comes to health, it may be time to
Jean-Raymond set for world Nick Knight. Styling by Kate Phelan
go with our gut, says Kate Spicer
domination, asks Alex Frank.
164 My seditious heart
Photographs by Amy Troost 204 ON THE COVER
Ruffles and frills, but not as you know
High splendour
them – sports-luxe touches add an
Beauty & wellness Christian Louboutin’s extravagantly
element of rebellion to soft, feminine
decorated Lisbon villa matches his
134 The illusionists looks. Photographs by Arthur Elgort.
shoe designs, discovers Ellie Pithers.
The creation of the perfect foundation. Fashion editor: Grace Coddington
Photographs by François Halard
Photographs by Richard Burbridge 176 ON THE COVER
210 From Byzantium
138 Director’s cut Singular vision
Unleash your inner empress with
Jessica Diner’s edit of the best As Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen
this season’s most coveted jewellery,
skincare boosters bring The Row to the UK, their
High says Carol Woolton. Photographs
splendour, shared purpose has never been
141 Floral arrangement by Nick Knight
page 204 stronger, finds Olivia Singer.
Spring’s freshest flowers made scent Photographs by Craig McDean. 216 ON THE COVER
142 Beauty musings Styling by Alastair McKimm End game
From a floating spa to multi-tasking As the world gears up for the final
lip products, Lauren Murdoch-Smith 182 Travelling light season of Game of Thrones, Zing
has all the updates you need to know Practicality meets insouciant Tsjeng meets four of the actresses
out-of-office style. Consider this your who have brought some of the
Fashion & features to-pack list. Photographs by Richard show’s most-loved characters to life.
Bush. Styling by Sarah Richardson Photographs by Jack Davison.
146 Taking shape
Styling by Nell Kalonji
Eschew colour and pattern and let 192 Danger! High voltage!
a striking silhouette do the talking. Take back the night in tight cuts, Back page
Photographs by David Sims. thigh-skimming hemlines and a What would Jeremy Scott do?
Styling by Joe McKenna heavy dose of ’80s-esque electric The designer takes our quiz
FRAN
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chloe.com
EDITOR’S LETTER
44
NOTICES
52
VOGUE.CO.UK
Paris Lees
On The Life-
changing
Power Of...
THINGS THAT
LAURA BAILEY
LOVES THIS
WEEK
Introducing the
Vogue columnists
News, reviews, opinion – the people who know most
about today’s world of style are only a click away
Sarah
Harris’s
Style Edit
THE WEEK
IN REVIEW
WITH RAVEN
SMITH
56 CHECK OUT THEIR COLUMNS AT VOGUE.CO.UK
EDWARD ENNINFUL
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
VOGUE.CO.UK
DIGITAL EDITOR ALICE CASELY-HAYFORD
ASSOCIATE DIGITAL EDITOR KATIE BERRINGTON
NETWORK EDITOR KERRY MC DERMOTT
BEAUTY & HEALTH EDITOR LISA NIVEN
MISS VOGUE EDITOR NAOMI PIKE
NEWS EDITOR ALICE NEWBOLD
ENGAGEMENT MANAGER ALYSON LOWE
ENTERTAINMENT WRITER HAYLEY MAITLAND
STAFF WRITER SUSAN DEVANEY
DIGITAL PICTURE EDITOR & CONTENT PRODUCER PARVEEN NAROWALIA
DIGITAL PICTURE ASSISTANT POPPY ROY
VIDEO PRODUCER MINNIE CARVER
SOCIAL MEDIA EDITOR SUE FUJIMOTO
ASSOCIATE SOCIAL MEDIA & SEO MANAGER LEXXI DUFFY
DIGITAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR-AT-LARGE ALEC MAXWELL
CONTRIBUTING EDITORS
ADWOA ABOAH, LAURA BAILEY, SINEAD BURKE, LAURA BURLINGTON, NAOMI CAMPBELL, ALEXA CHUNG, MICHAELA COEL,
RONNIE COOKE NEWHOUSE, CLAUDIA CROFT, TANIA FARES, ALEXANDER GILKES, NIGELLA LAWSON, PATRICK MACKIE,
ALASTAIR McKIMM, STEVE McQUEEN, JIMMY MOFFAT, KATE MOSS, SARAH MOWER, ROBIN MUIR, DURO OLOWU, LORRAINE PASCALE,
MAX PEARMAIN, HARRIET QUICK, CLARE RICHARDSON, ELIZABETH SALTZMAN, NONA SUMMERS, EMMA WEYMOUTH, HIKARI YOKOYAMA
Vogue is a member of the Independent Press Standards Organisation (which regulates the UK’s magazine and newspaper industry).
We abide by the Editors’ Code of Practice (www.ipso.co.uk/editors-code-of-practice) and are committed to upholding the highest standards of
journalism. If you think that we have not met those standards and want to make a complaint please see our Editorial Complaints Policy on the
Contact Us page of our website or contact us at complaints@condenast.co.uk or by post to Complaints, Editorial Business Department, The Condé
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information about IPSO or the Editors’ Code, contact IPSO on 0300 123 2220 or visit www.ipso.co.uk
VANESSA KINGORI
PUBLISHING DIRECTOR
ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER US
SHANNON TOLAR TCHKOTOUA
HEAD OF PARIS OFFICE HELENA KAWALEC
PARIS ADVERTISING MANAGER SIGRID LARRIVOIRE
REGIONAL SALES DIRECTOR KAREN ALLGOOD
REGIONAL ACCOUNT DIRECTOR HEATHER MITCHELL
ITALIAN OFFICE MIA SRL
MODERN WAY
coat, £2,490, Salvatore
Ferragamo. Shirt, £219.
Trousers, £995. Both
Boss. Shoes, £265,
Stuart Weitzman.
Right now, we’re crushing big on practicality. Melody wears coat,
£1,060, Kassl, at
From hands-free bags to multipocketed jackets, Browns. Body, £665.
Trousers, £1,005. Both
spring’s double-duty power players are Bottega Veneta. Shoes,
£360, Dorateymur.
designed to work hard – and look fabulous. Earrings, from £97,
AFRICA PENALVER, ZOE THAETS
Lizzie Fortunato.
Photographs by Stas Komarovski Clutch, £750,
Balenciaga. Juliane
wears coat, from £700,
Emporio Armani.
Trousers, £255, Marc
Cain. Shoes, £695,
Simone Rocha. Bag,
from £1,400, Givenchy
67
LONDON STORE, 278 BROMPTON ROAD — MSGM.IT
TRENDS
THE MACKINTOSH
“This
Quietly refined, the retro-infused
season’s slick
mac works best with a flash of leg mac is a
minimalist’s
dream”
Naomi Smart,
shopping editor
VALENTINO
From left: Zoë wears coat, £700, Nanushka. Top, £55, Cos. Bustier,
£500, Ermanno Scervino. Trousers, £1,200, Theory. Choker, £1,165,
Meadowlark. Ring, £410, Charlotte Chesnais. Africa wears coat,
£5,850, Versace. Top, £130, Nanushka. Bra top, £110. Skirt, £1,405.
Both Longchamp. Melody wears coat, £11,805, Salvatore Ferragamo. Mackintoshes:
Earrings, from £97, Lizzie Fortunato. Necklaces, from £240 each, Alighieri above, from top,
£190, Cos.
£1,045,
Great lengths
Mackintosh.
£845, Lemaire
THE TRENCH
PRADA
Leather coats:
Trenches: from left, right, from left,
£695, Kate Spade New
York. £325, Gerard
£2,343, Frame.
£1,797, Onar.
THE LEATHER COAT
Darel. £995, Joseph £239, Zara How to ace minimalism without the
anonymity? The only way is leather
69
/)2(%00.)22)6
ON YOUR BIKE
Cycling shorts are one of this summer’s
trickiest trends, says Ellie Pithers.
Will you dare to wear?
TRENDS
Left: Gigi
Hadid in
H
New York,
September
ow positive is your 2018
relationship with your
thighs? I only ask because,
this spring, it might need
a little therapy – thigh-rapy, if you will
– in preparation for the new short
shape. Don’t shoot the (bike) messenger
but it’s: cycling shorts.
The s/s ’19 shows contained enough
to clothe a peloton. At Chanel, Fendi,
Jacquemus, Jil Sander, Miu Miu,
Roberto Cavalli and Stella McCartney,
workout-ready shorts transformed
catwalks across Europe into veritable
velodromes. At Chanel – paired with
jaunty tweed jackets and straw hats –
they generated a madeleine moment:
micro shorts appeared under Chanel
couture dresses as recently as 2014,
but many showgoers were instantly
transported back to spring/summer
JACQUEMUS
bag on her arm, as inspiration. The Leandra Medine Cohen agree, wearing
shorts reached critical mass thanks to the cult shorts with a crew-neck black
Instagram – more specifically, Kim sweater and pointed ankle boots (Gigi),
Kardashian’s feed – where they garnered a crop top and white trainers (Kylie),
cultural cachet as the preferred method and an oversized sweater, a straw bag
of showing off toned legs and abs. By and ballet pumps (Leandra).
the time summer 2018 got underway, Bradley Wiggins need not apply. But
STAS KOMAROVSKI; JASON LLOYD-EVANS; JONATHAN DANIEL PRYCE;
they were the unanticipated shot in the should you? Could you? According to
leg the athleisure faithful never knew influencer Camille Charrière, who’s
they needed, a 1990s throwback that been ambling about Notting Hill in a
MITCHELL SAMS; GETTY IMAGES; INDIGITAL; PIXELATE.BIZ
was less Saved by the Bell, more, well, pair of Burberry cycling shorts, they are
Chanel. The conclusion: turns out surprisingly accessible. “They have a
cycling shorts look surprisingly chic retro feel that is very fun. I’ve been
when paired with barely-there sandals wearing mine with a belted blazer and
and one-size-up tailoring. kitten heels,” she says. “Worn with a
This season, Wardrobe NYC’s are baggy top or a cinched waist and the
the shorts to covet. Founded in 2017 by right shoes, they could work on 99 per
stylist Christine Centenera and the cent of people – but only if you feel
Australian designer Josh Goot, the label comfortable.” She counsels caution
Christine
proposes a concise, sports-influenced on the topic of fit. “Too tight or too Centenera
offering of high-quality basics – a black baggy and they look very wrong.” As at Paris
blazer, a white T-shirt, black leggings for the reaction? “My Burberry ones Fashion
FENDI
Week, July
– available in capsule edits of four or feature in one of my most-liked posts 2018
eight pieces (none of the items are of 2018.” Good luck. Q
73
TRENDS
Clockwise from
far left: satin
Mary-Janes, £515,
Miu Miu. Leather
mesh courts, £630,
Bottega Veneta.
Jewelled satin
slingbacks, £650,
Fendi. Leather
courts with
hardware, £755,
Balenciaga
SQUARE UP
Whether you’re climbing corporate ladders or kicking
back with cocktails, make sure the square toe is front of mind
when shopping spring’s shoe shapes
STAS KOMAROVSKI; PIXELATE.BIZ
75
TRENDS
77
INTRODUCING THE REEBOK X VICTORIA BECKHAM COLLECTION.
Available now at reebok.com/victoriabeckham
TRENDS Below, from left: Katia wears gilet, £2,670, Brunello Cucinelli. Dress, £209, Sandro.
Mismatched earrings, from £200, Timeless Pearly. Necklace, £240, Alighieri. Bracelet, £650,
Dior. Melody wears jacket, £450, Belstaff. Belt, £460, Tod’s. Trousers, £710, Ports 1961.
Earrings, £375, Jennifer Fisher. Zoë wears gilet, £1,058, Sacai, at Dover Street Market.
Trousers, £580, Jil Sander. Necklace, £169, Swarovski. Cuff, £265, Miansai. Bag, £3,650, Fendi
EXCESS BAGGAGE
One bag good, two bags
better: the spring catwalks
forecast doubling up STELLA MCCARTNEY
PROENZA SCHOULER
CHANEL
ALBERTA FERRETTI
CHANEL
FENDI
GIVENCHY
Power pockets
Fashion’s down-to-earth turn means everything from
STAS KOMAROVSKI; JASON LLOYD-EVANS; MITCHELL SAMS; PIXELATE.BIZ
handbags to shorts comes festooned with plus-sized pockets.
You will never lose your phone again
MAISON MARGIELA
PLAY
BALL
A pared-back
approach doesn’t
negate frivolity.
The new orb shape
is spring’s wild-
card arm candy
83
Clockwise from below: leather belt bag, £3,160,
Chanel. Top, £730, David Koma. Trousers, £627, Magda
Butrym. Leather belt bag, £1,090. Dress, £2,250. Both
Burberry. Leather belt bag, £750, Chloé. Dress, £1,535,
Miu Miu. Trousers, £495, Amanda Wakeley. Bracelets, from
£175 each, Miansai. Leather belt bag, from £1,055. Ring,
from £220. Both Givenchy. Shirt, £420, Holland & Holland.
Trousers, £210, Sandro. Bracelet, £144, Cornelia Webb
LOOK,
NO
HANDS
The ultimate in
functional accessorising,
the belt bag has had a
ladylike update for
s/s ’19. (Just don’t call
it a bumbag)
STAS KOMAROVSKI; PIXELATE.BIZ
84
TRENDS
Leather bag,
£2,500. Bustier dress,
£4,600. Both Celine
Leather, £590, Wandler, by Hedi Slimane
at Matchesfashion.com
BACK TO
BLACK
After seasons of extravagant colour,
aren’t you feeling ready for a gloriously
straightforward black bag again?
Leather, £2,100, Leather, £1,550,
Valentino Garavani Dolce & Gabbana Discreet is the word
85
ADWOA. Activist.
LUNA. Quadcross rider.
JOLIE. Artist.
D I S C O V E R M O R E N E W V O I C E S AT M A N G O . C O M
“NE W VOICE S” S S19
Let’s build the future, together.
VOGUE DARLING “When I started
Mac dancing, nobody
“My bag is a bright pink “My go-to
Cosmetics was listening to
Prada carry-all – my mother scent at the
eyelashes African music.
gave it to me and it totally moment is
in 32, It’s been phenomenal
suits my personality. It’s loaded Gucci Bloom
£11.50 to see that change.
with a million pairs of false [£125].”
I love Dotorado
eyelashes, Beats headphones Pro [left] and Gaia
by Dr Dre and my Bible, which Beat [right].”
I never leave home without.”
Sherrie
Wireless
headphones,
£250, Beats
by Dr Dre,
at Apple.com
Silver
With her encyclopedic knowledge of African
dance and trademark hypnotic style, Rwandan-
born, London-raised Sherrie Silver is quickly
PRODUCER: SYLVIA HONG. DIGITAL ARTWORK: ART POST LONDON. JAMES DUNCAN
becoming one of the world’s most sought-after
HAIR: RIO SREEDHARAN. MAKE-UP: ANNE SOPHIE COSTA. NAILS: JENNI DRAPER.
choreographers. Having launched her YouTube
channel in 2011, bringing her self-taught moves
Hi-tops,
£130, Nike
“I live between
London and New
York, but I’m on the
road constantly for
work. I just bought
a red case from
Calvin Klein, and
I’m hoping to get a “I’m obsessed
set of Louis Vuitton with having
luggage at some my clothes
point as well.” matching –
I will get the
same trainer in “I’ve never been much of a
five different reader, but I listen to Ted Talks
Holdall, £1,010, colours. Nike every morning. There’s one
“Rwanda is still my happy place. Whenever I Louis Vuitton Air Jordans to suit every possible mood,
land back in Kigali, I immediately go out for are still my whether you’re heartbroken
chicken, beans and ugali, then visit the safe favourites.” or on top of the world.”
house I created for street children with my
foundation, Children of Destiny. It’s important
to me that I never forget where I’m from.”
JEWELLERY
ZIP
CODE
Signal your preference
for sparkling wit with an
ingenious classic reworked
for now, says Rachel
Garrahan. Photograph by
Thomas Lohr. Styling
by Poppy Kain
N
o piece of jewellery
is a more perfect
expression of the
relationship between
haute couture and haute joaillerie
than Van Cleef & Arpels’ Zip
necklace. In 1930s Paris, Elsa
Schiaparelli thrilled the fashion
crowd with avant-garde couture
designs incorporating visible
zips, hitherto consigned to
utilitarian wear. It is believed
that it was one of Schiaparelli’s
clients, the Duchess of Windsor,
who challenged her friend
Renée Puissant, Van Cleef ’s
artistic director, to create a piece
of high jewellery that functioned
in the same way as a zip.
More than 10 years in the
making, the result – eventually
finished in 1950 – was a feat of
audacious design and engineering
that endures today. Featuring
interlocking gold teeth peppered
with precious gems, the Zip
could be worn as a necklace or,
when zipped up, as a bracelet –
perfectly timed, with the dawn of
international travel and the need
for a versatile wardrobe on the fly.
Fast-forward to today, and the
maison’s latest high-jewellery
collection pays tribute to the
unique majesty of the ruby –
exceptional examples of which
are said to be even rarer than
diamonds – with the Zip
necklace providing the perfect
Diamond and home for the dramatic allure of
ruby Zip necklace,
price on request, the so-called King of Gems.
Van Cleef & Arpels. “The ruby’s intense beauty brings
Sequined silk dress,
worn back to front,
the Zip to the next level,” says
£7,285, Saint Nicolas Bos, the company’s
Laurent by Anthony CEO. We predict it will also
Vaccarello. Hair:
Soichi Inagaki. garner this iconic design a new
Model: Kristin Drab generation of devotees. Q
Watches: from left,
Royal Oak Frosted
Gold Carolina
Bucci, £47,500,
Audemars Piguet.
Constellation
Manhattan, £6,000,
Omega. Automatic
Nautilus, £36,460,
Patek Philippe.
Octo Finissimo,
£37,700, Bulgari.
Satin dress, £1,290,
Fendi, at Browns.
Model: Eva S
W
hen Carolina Bucci turned 16, her parents The watch was a runaway hit and was recently followed
marked the occasion with a ladies’ Rolex. by the Frosted Gold Carolina Bucci Limited Edition. The
While its steel-and-gold bracelet was the latter boasts an ultra-chic silver-toned mirror dial that changes
height of 1990s fashion, she disliked its constantly, reflecting the wearer’s outfit and surroundings.
dainty proportions. The jewellery designer spent the next 20 Audemars Piguet is one of a number of Swiss watchmakers
years searching for her ideal watch, eventually finding it in to have woken up in recent years to the fact that, in an age
a perfectly proportioned vintage men’s Audemars Piguet Royal of female empowerment, women want a watch that works
Oak. “I’d finally found the perfect match,” she says. for their busy lives at the same time as expressing their style.
It was a love story that eventually led to the designer’s “Women are all different in terms of taste, shape, size and
own collaboration with the Swiss watchmaker. The 2016 opinion. You need to find what’s right for you,” says Bucci. And
Royal Oak Frosted Gold combined Audemars Piguet’s whether their look reads high fashion or boho chic, they are
unmistakable design codes with Bucci’s signature Florentine using their own purchasing power to make a statement through
finish, where the gold is beaten with a tiny diamond-tipped haute horlogerie, with more women than ever entering the
tool to subtly sparkling effect. traditionally male domain of serious mechanical timepieces.
WATCHES
Omega has an impressive history of women’s watches, from
its 1930s Medicus, designed for nurses, to its 1969 collection
with jeweller Andrew Grima. Answering the demands of its
female clientele, Omega’s new overhaul of its Constellation
Left: Carolina Bucci.
Manhattan collection includes a mechanical model, the 29mm Far left: Sandrine Stern.
Master Chronometer, for the first time since its launch in Left below: Fiona Krüger.
1982. Incorporating Omega’s Master Co-Axial movement, Below and opposite
below: designs for
each watch undergoes a minimum of 10 days of rigorous Richard Mille’s
independent testing, including resistance both to water and RM 71-01 tourbillon
to the magnets that crowd our handbags. “It’s about taking
care of what women want and
need from their watch today,”
says Raynald Aeschlimann,
CEO and president of Omega.
Complications, those feats of
engineering that deliver more
than time or date, are another
area of growth in women’s
watches. They come in myriad
forms: a moonphase depicts the
lunar passage; a minute repeater
chimes the time on demand.
Fa b r i z i o B u o n a m a s s a
Stigliani, Bulgari’s director of
watch design, has seen the
market for women’s complications evolve over
the past decade. For him, dazzling technical
features and aesthetics go hand in hand. “It’s
important for us to combine the two souls
of the brand: Swiss watchmaking expertise
and our Roman jewellery heritage,” he says. as well as fulfil their need for beauty make
For him, this marriage finds perfect women’s complications an even greater
expression in the new Diva’s Dream challenge than its men’s creations.
Finissima, an ultra-feminine gem-set watch “Everything is important for ladies:
incorporating Bulgari’s BVL 362 Finissimo aesthetic, comfort of wear, legibility,
calibre, the world’s thinnest minute repeater, dependability and precision,” she says,
which has a shimmering blue aventurine and pointing to the classical elegance of 2018’s
diamond dial crafted by hand in Bulgari’s Ladies’ Chronograph Ref 7150/250R.
jewellery workshop. “For us, the object must More than ever before, complications
first be beautiful. It has no soul without are now being created first for women’s
beauty,” he says. Clearly Bulgari’s clients agree. All 10 pieces watches, rather than adapted from a man’s. When the innovative,
of last year’s Diva Finissima sold out within hours of its undeniably masculine watchmaker Richard Mille unveiled its
unveiling. It is also the reason many women have opted for first in-house tourbillon last year, it chose to do so in the form
the ultra-thin, handsomely seductive Octo Finissimo in matt of a women’s timepiece. With a price tag of £389,500, the RM
rose gold, even though it was originally designed for men. 71-01 Automatic Tourbillon Talisman is for a successful woman
Twelve years ago, Van Cleef & Arpels introduced its Poetic who knows what she wants, says head of global client experience
Complications, a line of haute horlogerie that combines Amanda Mille Bey. “She will buy something in terms of
watchmaking mastery with exceptional craftsmanship. “We investment but she has to fall in love with it first.”
wanted to transfer the mindset of high jewellery, the storytelling Women are not only buying watches; more are working
magic, to high watchmaking,” says Nicolas Bos, president at in the industry, too. Two of the watchmakers at luxury giant
Van Cleef & Arpels. “When we started, people told us it was Richemont are now headed up by women – Chabi Nouri at
a stupid idea. Women weren’t interested in mechanisms.” Piaget and Catherine Rénier at Jaeger LeCoultre. Meanwhile,
Still Van Cleef persisted, and the response exceeded all Cécile Guenat, Richard Mille’s artistic director, has added a
expectations, explains Bos. In November the maison took home dose of fun into watchmaking with the new 10-piece Bonbon
the best complicated ladies’ watch prize at the Grand Prix collection, in which mastery of hi-tech materials has been
d’Horlogerie de Genève (the watchmaking Oscars) for its Lady combined with the candy colours of marshmallows and
Arpels Planétarium, in which the solar system is miniaturised liquorice allsorts in a collection that looks good enough to eat. “She will buy
to fit on your wrist: against an aventurine sky, a tiny turquoise Fiona Krüger, a Scottish independent watchmaker based in
something
MARC DUCREST; LUCA ROSSETTI
earth rotates around the golden sun in a full 365 days, while a France and Switzerland, believes things are heading in the
pink mother-of-pearl Mercury orbits in just 88. While the right direction, but says, “Women are so adventurous in fashion in terms of
technical mastery of the Planétarium is impressive, “the primary and jewellery, why should watches be any different?” She creates
thing is the visual impact and the story behind it,” says Bos. watches that are purposefully androgynous. The beauty of her investment,
“When we talk to a client, we don’t talk about the techniques Skull watch and the exploding shards of her new Chaos but she has
we’ve used. We talk about the stones, the inspiration, the stories.” movement are universally appealing. “It’s not true that women
For Sandrine Stern, Patek Philippe’s head of creation, the aren’t interested in the mechanics, they just relate to it in a
to fall in love
demands of female clients for a watch to fit their hectic lifestyles different way,” she says. “You have to make them dream.” Q with it first”
Suranne wears cotton
dress, £1,730, Emilia
Wickstead. Opal
and multicoloured-
sapphire earrings,
£2,425, Noor Fares.
Hair: Yumi Nakada-
Dingle. Make-up:
Vassilis Theotokis.
Nails: Robbie
Tomkins. Set design:
Anna Sbiera
HER OWN
MISTRESS
After an emotionally punishing year,
Suranne Jones tells Rebecca Nicholson
how her latest role – as wildly promiscuous
Regency lesbian Anne Lister – has been a revelation.
“Working, Photographs by Chloé Le Drezen.
working, Styling by Donna Wallace
working,
I
on all these n 2015, to an audience of 10 million gripped viewers, Anne Lister, a swaggering 19th-century landowner sometimes
very dark Suranne Jones snarled a line that became instant legend:
“Bitch is right. I’m a wolf tonight.” As Doctor Foster’s
referred to as “the first modern lesbian”.
There is already awards buzz surrounding Jones’s central
subjects… betrayed and vengeful GP, she had got the nation talking, turn, which required months of research – from perfecting
without never more so than when she poisoned the most uptight of Lister’s walk to nailing the 1830s social mores. If the first
suburban dinner parties with her raging spite. The performance episodes are anything to go by, it is as nuanced as it is
realising, elevated the former Coronation Street star into a headline act daring. “How can you not fall in love with someone, when
I was not for the small screen’s golden era. Meryl Street, if you will. you’re literally reading the day-to-day minute detail of their
Now there is talk of a global breakthrough. We meet in life and thoughts?” says Jones in her Lancashire tones after
dealing with London, shortly after Jones has finished shooting her gorgeous sitting for her Vogue portrait. Both her voice and her features
what I should and quietly revolutionary new period drama, Gentleman Jack. are instantly recognisable, the intimacy of television making
Created by dramatist Sally Wainwright (Happy Valley, Last her seem more familiar than most film stars. Dressed in
have been Tango in Halifax), and set to air simultaneously on the BBC dark denim and Chelsea boots, she apologises for getting
dealing with” and HBO, it is based on the four-million-word diaries of distracted by her phone (her son is two, and she’s currently
ARTS & CULTURE
monitoring his potty training from a distance), before therapy, and shutting down her Instagram account (she has
turning her attention to Lister. reopened it, but with a strict rule of work posts only).
“She built her own coal mines, she taught herself geology, When the crisis point came, Gentleman Jack was already
she spoke Greek, Latin and French… she self-educated,” she on the cards. It was no small undertaking – eight months in
explains. Originally, tales of her many lovers were written in Halifax in early 19th-century costume – so she had to decide
code, a mix of algebra and Ancient Greek that was deciphered if it was something she could do. “And it was, because it was
only after her death in 1840. She defied her times, dressing so uplifting, it was so life-affirming.”
in a masculine style and seducing plenty of women, eventually She moved to a farmhouse in Yorkshire with her husband
making one her de facto wife. Last year, a rainbow-edged and son for the duration of filming. “I found [a therapist]
LGBT blue plaque was erected at the church in York where who came to the house every week. We had lovely neighbours,
their “marriage ceremony” took place, considered the first and chickens and ducks and goats, and it was just… peace.
lesbian wedding in Britain. It is exactly the kind of work I needed that peace to deal with what had happened to me,
Jones has sought out in the second stage of her career. to say goodbye to my mum in the way that I needed to, and
Born Sarah Anne, she was brought up in Oldham, the to be around my baby boy who wanted his stories read, and
daughter of an engineer and a secretary, and started acting just be a mum. And then also be Gentleman Jack.”
professionally at 16, taking the name Suranne (her great- Being Gentleman Jack involved letting go, in every respect.
grandmother’s) for her Equity card. She turned up on various Jones wasn’t allowed to dye her hair for a year. “I grew my
shows and stages in the late ’90s, before getting her break on armpit hair, I had to grow out my legs, so they were out here
Coronation Street in 2000, to the delight of her family. One of and prickly. Until yesterday my hair was down here and
the finest actors forged in British soaps (Corrie fans still talk straggly.” It’s neat now, cropped to her shoulders. Someone
about her Karen McDonald – “a bulldog in hoop earrings” – in in the cast told her she should be more Gentleman Jack in
reverent tones), she left after four years and for a time seemed her life, because it really did seem to suit her. “It kind of gave
unsure of what to do next, like many actors after their stint in me a freedom to just not give a f**k as much as I did, and I
soaps. If there was one show that changed the course of her think that there had been a little light that had gone off in
career it was Wainwright’s Unforgiven, a 2009 crime thriller me, that just needed reigniting,” she says.
about a woman just released from prison after serving 15 years A co-production with HBO, it will introduce Jones to new
of a life sentence for murder. It set the tone for a series of American viewers. “I’ve no desire to go anywhere unless a
acclaimed but bleak dramas that turned Jones into the master job I love takes me, so I’m not about to go to America and
of misery. She reels them off: “Scott & Bailey had light touches, sell my wares,” she says cautiously. Instead, she’s taking a
but Rachel Bailey was a hard drinker, she was a shagger and break: four months off. She’s writing and
she was rough. And then Doctor Foster, betrayal. Save Me, producing scripts with her husband, and she’s
paedophilia. Frozen, paedophilia…” After all that, I ask, thinking about doing film for the first time, if
jokingly, is she OK? “Well,” she says, and takes a breath. “No.” the right thing appears. But there’s something
Jones is keen to talk honestly about what has happened to else, too, now that she’s beginning to move past
her over the past couple of years, yet wary, because she knows the darkness. “I’d love to do a musical. A big, fun
that, after Doctor Foster in particular, there’s a kind of fame song-and-dance piece,” she smiles. Q
attached to her that invites headlines. “I don’t want it to be, Gentleman Jack will air on BBC1 later this spring
‘Suranne Jones suffers with anxiety,’ ‘Suranne Jones had
depression,’” she says.
Doctor Foster’s success coincided with a difficult time in her
life. She married in 2015 (Laurence Akers, a scriptwriter), and
had a son in February 2016. Her mother died 10 months later,
having had Alzheimer’s for eight years. Jones kept working.
She signed up for Frozen, a harrowing West End play, in
February 2018, as the mother of a child abducted and murdered
by a paedophile. “Working, working, working, on all these
very dark subjects. So without realising, I was not dealing
BBC/LOOKOUT POINT/BEN BLACKALL; BBC/LOOKOUT POINT/JAY BROOKS
STRINGS
Cellist and singer Kelsey Lu’s debut album
make ends meet as African-Americans
living in the South, and the kind of hope
the Church must have provided.”
In the decade since, Lu has performed
with a hip-hop quartet between stints
is an ode to roots, religion and the healing as an exotic dancer, and collaborated
power of music, says Hayley Maitland with the likes of Solange, Kelela and
Sampha. Her unusual combination of
K
punchy millennial wokeness – speaking
elsey Lu has been up all night eloquently about everything from her
sequencing her debut album, bisexuality to the pitfalls of tokenism
Blood, and is still in work – and old-souled flower child (“In the
mode when she arrives, end, it’s all just about love”) is winning.
clutching a notebook full of ideas, for But the notion of roots remains
our interview at the Nobu Hotel in pertinent for her. She recorded her first
Shoreditch. She may not have slept, but EP, Church, live at Brooklyn’s Holy
she looks immaculate in a vintage Family Roman Catholic church.
Helmut Lang slip, logoed Gucci tights “Churches are strangely exotic to me,
and a pair of snakeskin cowboy boots because Jehovah’s Witnesses only ever
from Marfa, Texas. “Plus a bootstrap that worship in Kingdom Halls,” she says.
I took from a lover,” she adds, dreamily. Her new album is nothing short of
Lu’s haunting pop music has mesmeric – not to mention highly
TYLER MITCHELL/ART PARTNER; GETTY IMAGES
captivated the fashion world just as personal. Take “Pushing Against the
Her unusual much as her style has. The classically Wind”, a song honouring her father,
combination trained African-American cellist – who
lives in LA, but is in London for a gig
written during a thunderstorm after a
“healing” ayahuasca ceremony (naturally).
of punchy at the Southbank Centre before she The record, she explains, is “a sort of
millennial heads to Milan to give a private concert exorcism of my personal demons and a
– has produced soundtracks for Grace homecoming all at once”. Does she feel
wokeness and Wales Bonner’s shows and is a known a sense of closure now the album is finally
old-souled face on front rows from Gucci to Kenzo. about to drop? “Hell, no,” she replies,
No wonder there’s so much hype around laughing. “This is just the beginning.” Q
Above right: Lu performing at
the Brooklyn Artists Ball in 2017.
flower child Blood, due out this spring after more Blood, by Kelsey Lu, will be released on
Above: front row at Gucci is winning than three years in the making. Columbia Records later this spring
96
LIVING
“It’s a limited-edition piece, but
I want to get my hands on German
artist Silke Otto-Knapp’s hand-woven
Global Face flatweave rug for House of Voltaire.”
Serum, £75,
Lina Hanson,
at Content Rug, £1,200,
Beauty & Silke Otto-Knapp
Wellbeing for House of
Voltaire
Towelling bag,
£2,475, Chanel
“The Christopher
Kane collection
featured some of the
most mind-blowing
fabrics of the season –
this material looks like
tie-dyed chainmail.”
Skirt, £2,795,
Christopher Kane
Sofa, from £14,000, JP Demeyer
“Christina Tung’s
brand Svnr stands
for souvenir – her
handmade, upcycled
earrings remind me
of the keepsakes I find
on holidays.” Earring,
from £90, Svnr
ELGORT; NATHANIEL GOLDBERG; CRAIG
MCDEAN; GETTY IMAGES; PIXELATE.BIZ
DAVID BAILEY; CORINNE DAY; ARTHUR
Artistic stronghold
An artist and an art collector are revitalising
country-house style in a turreted castle in Angus.
By Talib Choudhry. Photographs by Kate Martin
I
ced with white render and topped with turrets, the house
looks fairytale-like from the approach through acres of
manicured grounds, the perfectly striped lawns, centuries-
old trees and ornamental hedges the result of an ongoing
battle to tame the wild beauty of the surrounding Scottish
countryside. The only noise is the rushing of the river that
snakes past the house and of dogs barking in the distance.
The lady of the house, the artist Indre Serpytyte-Roberts,
can be found taking her leisurely daily walk around the grounds
with the gamekeeper’s dogs, her cheeks flushed as she ushers
us into the entrance hall. Although the house is grand in
scale, with flagstone floors and soaring ceilings, the deep-grey
walls and a considered smattering
of contemporary art are a departure “Although
from the imposing architecture. It’s
the first sign that this is less a trad
it looks
Above: Indre Serpytyte-
country pile and more a bolthole for grand, it’s
Roberts roams the sprawling a modern, cultured crowd. not pompous.
gardens of her Scottish estate, “Although the exterior looks grand,
wearing a suit by Alex Eagle.
Right: the comfortable sitting
it’s not pompous,” says Serpytyte- Everyone
room boasts a Stella Vine
painting of Kate Moss entitled
Roberts, of the country retreat comments on
in Angus that she shares with her
Holy Water Cannot Help You
Now (Kate Moss), 2006 husband, the art collector and property how homely
developer David Roberts. “Anyone > it feels”
103
Clockwise from
below: open fires
in the bedrooms
engender cosiness;
the river was
incorporated in the
garden design and
a pond added in the
1800s; Stella Vine’s
Lady Hamilton and
Wonder Woman,
both 2005, add pep
to the hallway; Indre
takes a daily walk
through the grounds
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LIVING
AMAZING PACE
With his high-fashion looks and outspoken views, footballer
Héctor Bellerín is breaking the modern sportsman mould, finds Ellie
Pithers. Photograph by Tom Hoops. Styling by Florence Arnold
B
ritish football scandals are usually sparked by a grainy snap of a
player snorting a suspicious substance in a soupy Mayfair nightclub
or kissing someone who definitely isn’t his wife. But in December
2018, when a photograph of the Arsenal footballer Héctor
Bellerín went viral, the furore centred on a pair of micro-sunglasses.
“A lot of people didn’t get it,” the Spanish defender explains, smiling,
when I ask about the image, taken when he was watching his team
from the stands. In it, he is wearing a Burberry trench coat and
scarf, hair pulled into a ponytail, Blyszak sunnies perched on
the end of his nose. “I know a lot of people who support
football teams don’t care about fashion. For them, it can
be quite weird to see someone looking very different,”
he reasons. “But I’ve learnt not to read the comments.”
It’s a wise move. The 23-year-old’s Maison
Margiela PVC trench coats, Prada bucket hats
and double denim combinations are
frequently met with an abusive response
from fans. A fixture on the front row at
A Cold Wall and Christopher Raeburn,
he’s also regularly upbraided for “not
focusing on his football”. His
response? Train hard, play well and
wear something even more cutting-
edge. “I’m living my life the way I
want to live it, and not the way
people think I should,” he says.
If his clothing choices are unexpected,
then so are his outspoken views on everything
from climate change to education, delivered in a mellifluous
Cockney-meets-Catalonia accent. The son of a pattern-cutter mother
and a father who worked in insurance, he trained at Barcelona between
the ages of eight and 16, when he came to London to play for Arsenal.
He quickly broke into the first team – and, in keeping with football
tradition, bought a Gucci belt and Louis Vuitton wash bag. “I went to
Westfield, I was so excited!” he laughs. “Now, I’m more careful. I’ve learnt
that money comes very quickly, but it leaves even quicker.”
Bellerín’s first major purchase was a house for his parents in Spain.
He bought a Mercedes, but traded it in for a more eco-friendly second-
hand Tesla. In his spare time, he completed a marketing diploma, set
up a marketing agency with his housemate and invested in property.
“I was taught that education is the most important thing,” he recalls.
“You need a back-up plan.” It’s a philosophy that will stand him in
good stead as he recovers from a knee injury that will sideline him
for nine months.
Football is still Bellerín’s first love. If he loses a game, he can’t sleep.
Yoga, meditation and a vegan diet are all coping mechanisms for the
pressure. He spends weekends at art galleries and, although he has
largely curbed his shopping habit, he didn’t hold back on a recent Wool jacket, from
trip to Machine-A in Soho. “I got some very nice Raf Simons for £1,740. Matching
trousers, from £570.
Calvin Klein stuff,” he says sheepishly. “He’s a genius!” He’d love Both Givenchy.
to work in fashion post-retirement, and is currently completing a Poloneck, £155,
university course in branding and styling. “The creative process excites John Smedley.
Jewellery, his own.
me. As a kid I used to paint for, like, time. My mum bought me some Grooming:
painting things recently. It’s about what makes you happy.” Q Tyler Johnston
XXX
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I listen to Oprah talk,
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my soul goodness.”
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SPOTLIGHT
Shirt and trousers,
to order, Pyer Moss.
Brocade shoes,
£1,050, Roger Vivier.
Hoop earrings,
from £85, Tuza.
Hair: Shingo Shibata.
Make-up: Jen Myles.
Nails: Ami Vega. Model:
Hiandra Martinez
THIS IS
AMERICA
Kerby Jean-Raymond,
founder of Pyer Moss, has
big plans to deliver his
mighty vision of US fashion
to the world. By Alex Frank.
Photographs by Amy Troost.
Styling by Stella Greenspan
A
t the small Manhattan HQ
of Pyer Moss, reggae is
playing softly over the
speakers, and the smell of
pine is radiating from a candle on the
desk of the company’s founder and
designer, Kerby Jean-Raymond. But
though the 32-year-old designer has
created a relaxed aura in here – he says
he aims for a “Sunday morning vibe” in
the office – it is where he is developing
his plans for world domination. Beyond
the success of his brand, which has
now been running for six years and
was awarded $400,000 as the winner of
the 2018 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund,
Jean-Raymond – handsome and slim,
with almond eyes and a bushy beard –
wants to create his own holding company,
an umbrella of American fashion brands
to rival major conglomerates such as
LVMH. When asked why, as a designer
just coming into his own, he is already
thinking ahead to the biggest of big-
picture ideas, his answer is simple:
“Why shouldn’t I?”
That ambitious question has guided
Jean-Raymond’s career. With Pyer
Moss, he has built a brand both
dedicated to and reverent of what he
feels has been neglected in the world of
high fashion: the black American
experience. For his collections, which
he terms “spiritual sportswear”, he has
created renderings of his Haitian
immigrant father’s wardrobe, and
collaborated with the streetwear brands
he wore in his youth (such as Fubu and
Cross Colours). He makes smartly
cropped tailoring for men, breezy yet
sophisticated dresses and roomy, sporty
trousers for women, all in a confident
primary-coloured palette.
“Everything I’ve done has been Manhattan opened up my
personal,” explains Jean-Raymond, eyes. I saw what was possible.”
whose runway shows are joyous – He landed an internship with
typically featuring a full gospel choir department-store favourite
performing renditions of classics such Kay Unger, before opening
as Aretha Franklin’s “Ain’t No Way”. He and shuttering a series of
held his spring/summer ’19 show in the small brands, trying different
Brooklyn neighborhood of Weeksville, things without any of them
one of America’s first communities built really sticking until 2013,
for freed black landowners after the when a camo leather jacket
abolition of slavery, and collaborated he designed ended up on Rihanna. produced with clips of police violence
with the artist Derrick Adams on It received so much press that he cut against interviews with the families
paintings that appeared on clothing, quickly built a company around the of victims. By putting his point of view
such as a dress beaded with a glittering momentum, combining his mother’s right on the runway, he says that he
image of a father cradling a young baby. American and Haitian last names to scared away some retail buyers who
“Black people are portrayed tragically create the name Pyer Moss. were uncomfortable with the direction,
too often,” he says. “I want to show New ideas were inspired by real-world but he gained a devoted following.
things in another way.” events. By 2015, the Black Lives Matter “I felt like I had nothing to lose.”
Jean-Raymond grew up only about movement was ascendant, and cable A subtler depiction of his ethos is now
10 miles from the office he now news was awash with grainy filmed underway. Jean-Raymond designed his
inhabits, but explains it was a cultural accounts of black Americans being last two Pyer Moss seasons as part of a
world away – an ungentrified slice of killed, like “snuff films being played series he calls “American, Also”, which
deepest Brooklyn. His mother died all day, every day”, as Jean-Raymond attempts to understand the place of black
Top left and above:
when he was seven, and he was mostly remembers it. In the same year, he lives in US history and contemporary looks from the Pyer
raised by his father in a one-bedroom himself was on the wrong side of a trio life. He has pulled inspiration, for Moss spring/
summer ’19 show.
apartment. During middle school, he of cops’ guns after NYPD officers in instance, from 19th-century black Top right: Kerby
got knifed in the nose while defending Queens mistook a cast he was wearing cowboys. “Black people have been at the Jean-Raymond
a friend. A small scar is still visible, but on his arm as a weapon. “I’d had a gun heart of so many things that people think
“I’m lucky – I could’ve been blinded,” held on me before, but this was the first of as ‘white’,” he says. “Black people
he says. It was during that time, he time I thought they’d shoot,” he recalls. deserve to be patriotic, too.” He began
thinks, that he developed his insatiable Having always been interested in collaborating with Reebok in 2017,
hustle: he got his first job at a local politics, Jean-Raymond found that the and is now developing a standalone label
sneaker shop at 13, using forged papers shock of the times gave him clarity in within the sneaker company (something
to say he was old enough to work legally. his work. He put everything that had similar to what Yohji Yamamoto, one
JASON LLOYD-EVANS; MITCHELL SAMS
“I started working not out of choice, been swirling in his head on the runway, of his heroes, has created with Y-3 at
but necessity. My dad would give me creating a show for spring/summer ’16 Adidas). And though winning the
$10 each morning, and that was it for that featured boots splattered with red CFDA last year was undoubtedly a
food for the day,” he says. paint to give the impression of blood confidence boost, Jean-Raymond says
Soon, though, Jean-Raymond found stains, a jacket spray-painted with the he’s known for some time that Pyer Moss
his way to a high school in Manhattan word “Breathe” in homage to Eric is going to work, that he is at the dawn
that specialised in fashion, where he Garner (who was captured on film being of the next great American brand.
was surrounded by wealthier kids put in a fatal chokehold by the NYPD How is he so sure? “Because,” he says
and a creative atmosphere. “Being in in 2014), and a video Jean-Raymond with a steely deadpan, “I just am.” Q
125
HAIR: JOSH KNIGHT. MAKE UP: LUCY JOAN PEARSON. SET: PENNY MILLS.
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CHECKLIST
NEUTRAL
GROUND
From cream and biscuit to caramel
and coffee, deliciously muted hues
are the key to springtime dressing.
Edited by Holly Roberts
PHOTOGRAPH: JOHN GRIBBEN. SET DESIGN: VICENTE BEN
BACK TO NATURE
Giorgio Armani’s look this season presents a soft yet strong silhouette to be worn with
ease, and these earrings, £260, are no exception. Their modern geometric shape creates
a contrast with the organic feel of the marbled shell – perfect for spring soirées. >
Vogue,
October 1989
Jacket, £249,
Luisa Cerano
Skirt, £690,
Holland
& Holland
Stacking
rings set,
£169,
Trench coat,
Swarovski
£575, Boss
Sweet spot
Nestled in the heart of
Piccadilly – and offering
the ideal blend of
tradition and modernity
– renowned chef Albert
Adrià’s latest launch,
Cakes & Bubbles, serves
exquisite desserts paired
with a carefully curated
selection of champagnes.
Trousers,
£34.99,
Reserved
132
CHECKLIST
Tumbler, £65
Nude X Iris Pendant,
Apfel £1,700, Tasaki
Dress, £1,245,
Victoria Beckham
Earrings,
£113, Kate Spade
New York
Age Perfect
Manuka
Honey Serum,
£19.99,
L’Oréal Paris
EDUARDO BENITO; NEIL KIRK; ALASDAIR MCLELLAN
New classic
Ralph Lauren
has introduced Nude wool
the RL50 coat, £395,
handbag, £2,045, Gerard Darel
in a gorgeous
golden tan
leather – a new
icon silhouette
merging codes
from the
brand’s rich
heritage.
133
From left: Vincent
wears gabardine
minidress, £1,009,
Attico. Paloma
wears duchesse-
satin cape, £870,
MM6 Maison
Margiela. Meghan
wears jersey dress,
£1,045, Ellery, at
Farfetch.com. Hair:
Ward Stegerhoek.
Make-up: Diane
Kendal. Models:
Vincent Beier,
Paloma Elsesser,
Meghan Roche
THE ILLUSIONISTS
Does the perfect foundation now exist?
Quite possibly, says Jessica Diner.
Photographs by Richard Burbridge.
Styling by Stella Greenspan
BEAUTY
Edited by Jessica Diner
135
BEAUTY
I
s it too much to hope that all our foundation needs could perfect match can still be complex; nevertheless it is imperative,
be met with one product? Light to the touch, invisible, so take pride in the prep work.
but consistent and long-lasting when it comes to coverage? “You really need good light,” explains make-up artist Lisa
Well, technology has now caught up with our demands. Eldridge. “Take off all your make-up, go to a cosmetics
RICHARD BURBRIDGE; PIXELATE.BIZ
From top: Clarins Skin But the new wave of complexion enhancers are not tinted counter, find what you think is your shade and then go for
Illusion Natural Hydrating moisturisers, they are not “full-on” foundations, nor are they a walk outside. Let it settle, let it oxidise, look at it in natural
Foundation, £30.
Hourglass Illusion BB or CC creams. They are a little bit of all of the above. daylight. Don’t feel obliged to make your decision there and
Hyaluronic Skin Tint, £51. They have the colour-correcting capabilities of a full-coverage then. It’s OK to go back.” And the perfect part of the face
Clinique Moisture Surge
Sheer Tint Hydrator, £30.
foundation, but the weightlessness and mattifying capacity to shade-match? “On the jawline, one inch inwards from
Lancôme Teint Idole of a powder. To wear them is to understand their techy savoir- your ear lobe,” explains Eldridge. “Further back, skin has
Ultra Wear Nude, £34. faire and to see how well they can multi-task. But the perennial been protected by your hair, further forward, it’s been more
Estée Lauder Double Wear
Nude Water Fresh question of shade matching still applies. And in the current exposed to the sun. In this sweet spot, you will find the
Makeup, £34 market where – thankfully – options abound, finding the nuance of skin tone that will work for your whole face.” Q
*Clinical test on 31 volunteers **In vitro data
Available at Harrods and selected John Lewis, House of Fraser and Harvey Nichols.
Online at feelunique.com, lookfantastic.com, escentual.com, cultbeauty.co.uk and debenhams.com.
DIRECTOR’S CUT
JUMP START
For a radical overhaul or a morning
12 WEEKS
pick-me-up, think of this round-up of
treatments as a booster pack for your
skincare routine, says Jessica Diner
T
he “questions” function on Instagram Stories is, it
turns out, a brilliant way of crowdsourcing ideas
– and my first dalliance with it was illuminating.
“I have a spare hour, ask me your questions,” I wrote.
What came back was a flurry of skincare queries, many of
them about intensive treatments to give skin a lift either
when it’s tired or has “stopped responding to products”. So
this month’s column is dedicated to the super-charged skincare
boosters everyone should be incorporating in their regime
4 WEEKS four to six times a year.
Your level of boost will depend on the time and effort that
you are willing to dedicate. The 12-week Teresa Tarmey
Programme – from the facialist best known for her glow-
enhancing micro-needling treatments – is an at-home kit of
six products that comes with a step-by-step guide. Complete
with a lactic acid toner, a peptide treatment, a Dermaroller,
a massage tool, a reusable silicone sheet mask and a hyaluronic
acid gel, all designed to work together to improve collagen
production and plump skin, this is for the dedicated enthusiast
who is looking for skin changes akin to having a professional
facial. And if you can stick to it, it works.
For those who have an event looming but don’t have 12
10 DAYS weeks to spare, Bioeffect’s 30 Day Treatment uses EGF
(epidermal growth factor), a barley derivative that redefines
skin’s tone and texture, producing crazy-good results; while
the star ingredient of Elizabeth Arden’s four-week Prevage
Progressive Renewal Treatment is idebenone, a powerful
antioxidant, combined with gentle acids to resurface the skin
for radiance and diminished fine lines. Sisley’s Sisleÿa-Elixir
7 DAYS is another four-week programme that I can’t recommend
highly enough for a smoother, perkier, firmer effect. The only
effort required is remembering to apply these boosters after
cleansing and before moisturising, in place of serum.
Then there are the “short, sharp burst” kits, which are
better suited to seasonal changes, or for when skin is looking
12 weeks Teresa Tarmey dull and in need of reawakening. Dermalogica’s Rapid Reveal
Programme, £350. Peel restores radiance and brightens in 10 days, as does
4 weeks Bioeffect facialist Sarah Chapman’s Skinesis Power A Renewal System,
30 Day Treatment, £210;
Elizabeth Arden Prevage
DAILY which contains 10 vials of single-dose vitamin A and
Progressive Renewal hyaluronic acid – it promises to revive the complexion and
Treatment, £180;
Sisley Sisleÿa-Elixir
diminish dark spots. Lancôme’s one-week option is ideal
Intensive Skin Renewal for sensitive skin.
Program, £350. A skin boost can be part of your daily in-shower routine,
10 days Sarah Chapman
Skinesis Power A too. When skin is lacklustre, try Elemis’s Biotec Skin
Renewal System, £145; Energising Cleanser, which is turbo-charged with lactic,
Dermalogica Rapid ferulic and succinic acids as well as electrolytes to give the
Reveal Peel, £79.
7 days Lancôme complexion a wake-up call. Lixirskin’s Vitamin C Paste and
Rénergie Multi-Cica Liz Earle’s Brightening Treatment Mask are my well-loved
Soothing Gel, £66.
morning masks that rejuvenate skin in five minutes – ideal
Daily Elemis Biotec Skin
Energising Cleanser, £40.
5 MINUTES before a big presentation or an appearance on camera. As the
PIXELATE.BIZ
5 minutes Liz Earle saying goes, sometimes a change is as good as a rest – but
Brightening Treatment
Mask, £18; Lixirskin beauty boosters that make you look like you’ve actually had
Vitamin C Paste, £32 a rest? That is a change worth investing in. Q
138
EVERYTHING
IS ABOUT
TO
CHANGE
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SPECIAL EDITION
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ON NEWSSTANDS
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I N PARTN E RS HI P W ITH
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Tess Daly
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BEAUTY
FLORAL
ARRANGEMENT
Jasmine, lily, peony,
nettle and mimosa:
this spring’s fragrance
launches are taking
inspiration from gardens
in bloom, says Jessica
Diner. Photograph by
Joss McKinley
141
Skin renew
W
ith a host of new retinol
products on the scene,
it’s become much easier
to reap the vitamin C
derivative’s anti-ageing benefits. The
Vogue beauty desk’s favourites include:
111skin’s Celestial Black Diamond
Retinol Oil (1), £150; Estée Lauder’s
Perfectionist Pro Rapid Renewal Retinol
Treatment (2), £63; Sunday Riley’s A+
High-Dose Retinoid Serum (3), £85;
Origins Plantscription Retinol Night
Moisturiser (4), £49; Drunk Elephant’s
A-Passioni Retinol Cream (5), £62; and
Elizabeth Arden’s Retinol Ceramide
Capsules Line Erasing Night Serum (6),
from £30. Use in the evening, then make
sure you wear an SPF the next day to
protect freshly resurfaced skin.
BEAUTY MUSINGS
5
Retinol goes mainstream, a one-of-a-kind
workout studio and Insta-effect concealer…
April is shaping up to be a big month,
says Lauren Murdoch-Smith
LASHINGS 1
4
OF TLC
Eyelash extension treatments 3
are more popular than ever,
but over time, they can have a
damaging effect. The remedy? 2
L’Oréal Paris’s Lash Serum,
ART & COMMERCE; PIXELATE.BIZ
Laura Mercier
Flawless Lumière
Giorgio Armani Beauty Lip
Magnet Lip Freeze in Coral,
Radiance-Perfecting
Foundation, £36, Studio fix
uses “super crystal
£31, uses special “water in clear pearl” for its Kensington’s newly opened Body Machine
oil” technology to avoid light-reflecting Performance Studio is the first authentic,
drying out lips. properties.
YSL Face Palette
licensed TRX (Total-Body Resistance Exercise)
No filter
Owing to its blurring effect, Giorgio Armani Beauty’s
Face Fabric, a lightweight foundation, is a long-time
favourite of the beauty world – and now, with the launch
of the complementary Power Fabric Concealer, £32, the
brand adds another star to its line-up of expert coverage.
Available in 20 shades, it banishes everything from
imperfections and dark circles to pigmentation.
DRY CLEANERS
We’ve become a nation of dry
shampoo obsessives, so variations
on our beloved product are always
welcome. Redken’s new multitaskers
combine cleansing with styling benefits:
the Dry Shampoo Paste 05 is half-dry
shampoo, half-styling paste, so it’ll
refresh hair as well as adding texture and
Redken Dry Shampoo Redken Dry Shampoo hold, while the Dry Shampoo Powder
Powder 02, £20 Paste 05, £20 02 uses charcoal to absorb oil and
create volume at the roots.
143
Suede shirt, £2,175,
Loewe. Cotton shirt,
£89, Hugo. Suede
shorts, £2,390,
Brunello Cucinelli.
Leather belt, £1,130,
Hermès. Key ring
wallets, £290 each,
Jil Sander. Leather
sphere clutch,
£3,800, Moynat
STYLING: SARAH RICHARDSON. HAIR: NEIL MOODIE. MAKE-UP: MATHIAS VAN HOOFF
BROADEN
YOUR
HORIZONS
ONE OF THE BEST THINGS ABOUT THE BEGINNING OF A NEW SEASON IS MAPPING OUT A NEW WARDROBE.
WHERE WILL YOU TAKE IT? WHAT WILL YOU FALL IN LOVE WITH? RIGHT NOW, THE POSSIBILITIES ARE ENDLESS,
RUNNING FROM THE PRACTICAL TO THE ALL-OUT FANCIFUL. UTILITY WEAR GOES SUPER-UPSCALE, RENDERED IN THE
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SPIRIT. A BURST OF GENIUS ACCESSORIES ENTER THE LEXICON: THE BELT BAG, THE WRIST WALLET, THE PURSE
NECKLACE – SUDDENLY YOU’LL DISCOVER YOU NEED THEM ALL. AT THE OTHER END OF THE SARTORIAL SPECTRUM
ARE COCKTAIL DRESSES SATURATED IN COLOUR OR CRAFTED FROM FEATHERS AND SEQUINS. WATCH HOW THEY FLY!
SEE HOW THEY TRIP THE LIGHT! IT’S TIME TO NAVIGATE SUMMER. PHOTOGRAPH BY RICHARD BUSH
145
TAKING
SHAPE
The message this spring?
Whether it’s luscious leather
or paper-bag cotton canvas, let
your silhouette speak volumes.
Photographs by David Sims.
Styling by Joe McKenna
TOUGHEN DIOR’S
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147
PORTRAIT MODE:
AT CELINE, PRECIOUS
METALS DEMAND
CLOSER INSPECTION.
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SLIMANE. WOOL AND
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NOEL STEWART.
RICK OWENS OWNS
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JUST ADD A PAIR OF
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OPPOSITE: PEELED-SLEEVE
JACKET, £4,381. BIKINI
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HAT, AS BEFORE
NEW NOIR: GIVE
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PRESENTING THE MOST
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COAT, £5,280. LEATHER
SKIRT, £2,550. BOTH
BOTTEGA VENETA. BOOTS
AND CAP, AS BEFORE.
CHANEL HAS DESIGNS
ON CYCLING SHORTS –
IN AN ELEGANT VISCOSE
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FOR STOCKISTS, ALL PAGES,
SEE VOGUE INFORMATION.
HAIR: DUFFY. MAKE-UP:
LUCIA PIERONI. NAILS: AMA
QUASHIE. PRODUCTION:
ART HOUSE AGENCY.
DIGITAL ARTWORK:
SKN-LAB. MODEL:
SIGNE VEITEBERG
“LET ME
PUT THIS
OUT THERE...
I AM NOT AN
ENGLISH ROSE”
As Disney’s new Princess Jasmine, British actress
and singer Naomi Scott is redefining the fairy
tale for the modern age. Sophie Heawood meets a young
woman set for a global takeover.
Photographs by Nick Knight. Styling by Kate Phelan
T
he Disney princess walks across the road, peers Go”. “Oh gosh, I wouldn’t want to put that pressure on it,” she replies,
at her car windscreen, shouts “Yes! Come on!” which I take to mean, yes, this is absolutely what we’re gunning for,
because she hasn’t got a ticket, chucks her YSL 100 per cent. Then, this autumn, she will star as one of the new
handbag in the back, then dances in her seat as Charlie’s Angels alongside her new BFF Kristen Stewart (“We are
she drives through her native Essex, listening in love”), and after that she’s quite possibly taking over Hollywood
to the sexy new R’n’B song she’s written about and then the world.
wanting to be so close to her man that she can But before all that she has to go to her parents’ church this afternoon
smell his skin and have his babies. – “Brap brap, big up,” she says as we drive past it – and before that she
This is Naomi Scott, the 25-year-old British actress and singer who has to have breakfast with Vogue. So we sit down in her favourite Woodford
is about to be propelled to instant stardom as Princess Jasmine in Guy café, where she cheerily greets the staff by name, but nobody else recognises
Ritchie’s Aladdin, with Will Smith as the genie. Although she almost the girl with the sparkling brown eyes in jeans and a hoodie, ordering a
wasn’t, after the producers suggested she might want to try a dress mixed grill with extra sausage and laughing with all her wide-eyed sass.
and make-up for her second audition: “And I was like, ‘Crap, I don’t Safe to say, Scott isn’t like the British starlets that we used to send
own a dress.’ I had to run into Topshop on Oxford Street to buy one.” to Tinseltown. The daughter of a British-Indian mother and a white
Scott will not only act, but belt out the movie’s most eagerly awaited British pastor father, she was born in Hounslow and moved to
new song, a modern anthem about finding your voice so you can Woodford, Essex, in her teens. Aged 21, she married the British-
lead your people. I ask if it could be as big a hit as Frozen’s “Let It Jamaican footballer Jordan Spence, whom she met at her parents’ >
158
“I SAID TO THEM,
‘JUST TO LET YOU
KNOW, I WANT TO PLAY
[JASMINE] STRONG,
AND IF THAT’S NOT
WHAT YOU’RE LOOKING
FOR, THAT’S OK, BUT
IT’S NOT FOR ME.’”
COTTON DRESS
WITH SEQUINED NET
EMBROIDERY, £13,575,
LOUIS VUITTON. RESIN
EARRINGS, FROM £90,
COREY MORANIS. NEON
HEADPIECE, TO ORDER,
PIERS ATKINSON.
HAIR: SAM MCKNIGHT.
MAKE-UP: PETER
PHILIPS. NAILS: MARIAN
NEWMAN. SET DESIGN:
ANDREW TOMLINSON.
PRODUCTION: LIBERTE
PRODUCTIONS.
DIGITAL ARTWORK:
EPILOGUE IMAGING
THIS PAGE: JERSEY
DRESS, £1,165, STELLA
MCCARTNEY. PERSPEX
HELMET, COURTESY OF
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OPPOSITE: STRETCH-
SATIN DRESS, £3,490,
BALENCIAGA. PERSPEX
HEADPIECE, FROM £780,
RINALDY YUNARDI
church when she was 15, having grown up absolutely
obsessed with playing football herself. When she talks about
their youth she laughs, because he went to the posh private
school while she was at the comp, so they had to conduct
their big emotional chats in Nando’s.
Look at the pair of them on Instagram and you can’t
help but swoon a bit at their unsickly love for each other
– this Ipswich Town footballer bigging up his wife and
how excited he is “to do life” with her. In my experience, “THERE WERE
whatever the background, there are only two types of
celebrities in the end: those who succeed because they SOME HOLLYWOOD
know exactly who they are, and those who do so because
they’re willing to let the world tell them. Scott and Spence
MOMENTS
are clearly the former; a newly minted Posh and Becks.
Elizabeth Banks, director of the new Charlie’s Angels
WHERE I WAS
movie, explains Scott’s personal magic: “The audience roots TOO WHITE
for her to win, and she upgrades every scene she’s in. I just
fell in love with her spirit.” Guy Ritchie certainly saw FOR ONE PERSON,
something that convinced him to cast the relative unknown
in Aladdin after a global search. Twenty-seven years after AND TOO
the original cartoon’s release, the fascination with the story
endures. When I told my seven-year-old I wouldn’t be able NOT-WHITE
to pick her up from school, because I had a meeting with
Princess Jasmine, her jaw hit the floor. FOR ANOTHER”
Yet for any mother, the princess-as-role-model remains
a thorny issue, especially when it’s Jasmine, who in the
1992 set-up is a 16-year-old with an unsettling mix of
purity and seductiveness. Scott was adamant that she
would only play 2019 Jasmine on her terms. “I saw her
as a young woman, not a teenager, with a mature strength
that can cut you down. So I said to them, ‘Just to let you
know, I want to play her strong, and if that’s not what
you’re looking for, that’s OK, but it’s not for me.’”
She still boggles at how huge an opportunity she has
been given. Aged 11, she went to a singing summer school
and realised she “wasn’t delusional, that I could actually
do this”, later getting spotted singing a church solo by a
talent agent who decided that Scott could be an actress,
too, “which was news to me. I have a lot to thank her for.”
She acted in some ads and got work on Disney Channel
drama shows, sitting one of her GCSEs alone at 5am so
she could film that same morning. Then came the bigger
aspirations – and the bigger disappointments.
“I remember thinking in auditions, ‘OK, this is it, this
is the one.’ And then not getting it. And then the next
time thinking, ‘OK, this is the one.’ And not getting it
again. I was the Nearly Girl for a long time.” Still, she
did get a part in the Matt Damon movie The Martian
– though she discovered she’d been cut when the credits
rolled at the London preview, where she was sitting in
the audience with her best mate, all dressed up and slightly
confused. She signed a record deal with Island Records
and, finally, a big boost came when she was cast as the
pink Power Ranger in the 2017 film, after a couple of
episodes of Lewis on ITV and a lead role in the American
sci-fi TV series Terra Nova.
I tell her she’s as focused as a GPS, recalibrating the same
route after every diversion. She agrees, perhaps because she
knew that some of the rejection wasn’t really about her at
all. Race has always played a part; a section of the internet
believes a biracial woman of British and Gujarati descent
has no business playing Middle Eastern Jasmine (“I love
Naomi Scott but I don’t love the ‘brown ppl are
interchangeable’ idea,” read one tweet). Scott has often felt
that her colour came into casting debates. “I was maybe the
exotic choice for some people – I guess because I’m not >
She got back from filming Aladdin only the week before
the Christmas show at church, so she wasn’t in it but she
was there, doling out honey and lemon to the cast backstage.
“Those are my people. We’re not a super-slick megachurch.
We’re just a bunch of people who meet up in a school hall.”
Was Jordan her first boyfriend, I wonder nosily. “With
“WE’RE YOUNG the boy thing, it wasn’t that I wasn’t allowed, it’s that I
wasn’t thinking about it. I wasn’t expecting to meet someone
PEOPLE WITH BIG at that young an age. I had all these big things I wanted
to go and do, go and take over the world. But I met Jordan
ASPIRATIONS – at 15, 16 – he was a bit older – and I was like,” she does a
I WANT TO BE A big approving grin, nodding like she means business, “Yeah!
I feel like we could… do life together.”
My seditious
DISRUPTIVE SPORTY
ELEMENTS LEND
ROMANTIC FEMININITY
A REBELLIOUS
heart
ALL-ACTION ATTITUDE.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY
ARTHUR ELGORT.
FASHION EDITOR:
GRACE CODDINGTON
165
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ENSEMBLE OFFERS OPTIMUM
ROMANCE. THE BEST WAY
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ALL MARC JACOBS
CATCH OF THE DAY:
NET-DRESSING IS
A THING AND LOUIS
VUITTON’S, CRAFTED
IN RED SEQUINS, IS THE
MAIN PRIZE. LAYER OVER
SCULPTURAL COTTONS.
THIS PAGE: COTTON
DRESS WITH SEQUINED-
NET EMBROIDERY, £10,000.
LEATHER BOOTS, £1,100.
LEATHER BAG, £2,400.
ALL LOUIS VUITTON.
MIU MIU’S OVERSIZED
ROSETTES AND SPARKLING
HEADBANDS ARE SURE TO
INSPIRE JOY, NO MATTER
YOUR ENVIRONMENT.
OPPOSITE: WOOL JACKET
WITH ROSETTE DETAIL,
£2,265. ORGANZA SHIRT,
£470. SOCKS, £115.
LEATHER SANDALS, £605.
CRYSTAL HEADBAND,
£440. ALL MIU MIU
THE MESSAGE FROM
BALENCIAGA WHEN IT
COMES TO EVENINGWEAR?
SHORT, SHARP-EDGED
AND WITH SHEEN.
OPPOSITE: SATIN DRESS,
£3,700. LEATHER SHOES,
£665. LEATHER CLUTCH,
£1,290. EARRINGS, £635.
ALL BALENCIAGA.
CELINE’S NEW AFTER-DARK
VISION PRESENTS
GLITTERING PARTYWEAR
AT ITS MOST COVETABLE.
GOING OUT IS THE
NEW STAYING IN.
THIS PAGE: SEQUINED
SILK MINIDRESS, TO ORDER.
LEATHER BOOTS, £930.
BOTH CELINE BY
HEDI SLIMANE
VIA PAISLEY SEQUIN
SWIRLS AND FEATHERED
FRINGES, VALENTINO
WHIPS UP A MAGICAL MIX.
THIS PAGE: SILK TOP, £3,450.
SEQUINED SILK TROUSERS,
£4,500. SISAL HAT, TO ORDER.
ALL VALENTINO. SANDALS,
£540, VALENTINO GARAVANI.
MARNI’S DECONSTRUCTED
DRESSES ARE A MASTERCLASS
IN SUBVERSIVE FEMININITY.
OPPOSITE: EMBELLISHED
SILK DRESS, £4,000.
BRA, £195. BELT, £320.
LEATHER AND SNAKESKIN
SHOES, £690. LEATHER BAG,
£2,950. ALL MARNI.
FOR STOCKISTS, ALL PAGES,
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HAIR: JULIEN D’YS.
MAKE-UP: FRANCELLE DALY.
SET DESIGN: MARY HOWARD.
PROPS: HOOKPROPS.COM.
PRODUCTION: BRIAN CRESTO.
DIGITAL ARTWORK: SALLY
TAYLOR. MODEL: ADUT AKECH.
WITH THANKS TO INDUSTRY
CITY, NEW YORK
“WE ARE PROFESSIONAL
WOMEN, AND THAT’S
HOW WE CONDUCT
OURSELVES.” AFTER ALL,
“WE’VE BEEN WORKING
SINCE WE WERE NINE
MONTHS OLD.”
FROM LEFT: ASHLEY
AND MARY-KATE OLSEN,
PHOTOGRAPHED IN
NEW YORK
SINGULAR
VISION
I
t’s 11.29 on a blustery New York
morning when the doorbell rings
at Craig McDean’s studio. Instead
of being fashionably late, as one
might expect from Mary-Kate and
Ashley Olsen, the twin sisters arrive early,
clutching enormous exotic-skinned SOON, THE
handbags, their tiny frames swathed in ROW WILL
layers of black. “We are professional ARRIVE IN
women, and that’s how we conduct
ourselves,” they earnestly impress upon
LONDON,
me later in the day. After all, “we’ve been BRINGING
working since we were nine months old.” also because it determinedly shies away that, we started out that way,” sighs ASHLEY AND
That discipline has paid off. Now from the press: it never advertises Mary-Kate. “But this is the way we MARY-KATE
aged 32, they are esteemed designers (the Olsens themselves rarely grant chose to move forward in our lives: to
who have won a devoted customer base interviews) and this season it didn’t even not be in the spotlight, to really have OLSEN’S
the world over. With little training hold a fashion show (instead, a dozen something that speaks for itself.” UNIQUE
besides what they picked up in the rails of particularly lovely garments were The Row is clothing designed for PERSPECTIVE
wardrobe departments of Full House and quietly presented in its New York studio). women who identify with that spirit,
Two of a Kind (the American TV shows Throughout our day together – and who prefer subtle elegance, plays on
TO THOSE
that made them household names), or despite having known photographer proportion and luxurious fabrics to loud WHO PREFER
sitting in on meetings for the Walmart Craig McDean for years, and taken part or logo-embellished extravaganzas. In THEIR FASHION
clothing line they launched aged 12, in hundreds of shoots – the most fact, when the Olsens first started the METICULOUSLY
they have built something of a fashion apprehensive they appear is when brand in 2006 (originally as a side-
empire. It is one that includes The Row preparing to step in front of his camera. project while studying at New York
MADE AND
and Elizabeth & James, along with a (Later, they sweetly implore me to discard University), with the simple intention of UNDERSTATED.
handful of other projects, and is rooted the portrait of them in favour of an image creating the perfect white tee, they had BY OLIVIA
in the kind of good taste and refined he took of their interlinked hands.) no branding at all, just a hand-stamped SINGER.
aesthetics that may not have defined It’s hard to imagine that their rigorous gold chain sewn into each neckline.
their movie starlet beginnings but with discretion isn’t a repercussion of their “The whole exercise was to see whether, PHOTOGRAPHS
which they have become synonymous. celebutante years, that the scores of if something was made beautifully, in BY CRAIG
The Row, the brand we are here to Instagram accounts dedicated to their great fabric, with good fit, it would sell MCDEAN.
discuss, is unusual. Not only because it daily activities and the fervid fandom without a logo or a name on it,” they
is helmed by these two young women, that still surrounds them doesn’t play a explain. “And it worked.” That first
STYLING BY
whose every Starbucks trip has been role in their reluctance to retake centre T-shirt established a solid foundation, ALASTAIR
documented for decades now, but stage. “We’ve been there, we’ve done from which they grew their collection > MCKIMM
177
IN AN INDUSTRY
OFTEN SUSPICIOUS OF
CELEBRITY DESIGNERS,
IT IS NO SMALL FEAT
THAT THEY MADE THEIR
MARK. “IT WAS VERY HARD
AT THE BEGINNING,”
ASHLEY REMEMBERS.
“AND ACTUALLY,
PROBABLY UNTIL THE
PAST COUPLE OF YEARS.”
THIS PAGE: WOOL-
CANVAS DRESS, £1,980.
NYLON BAG, £1,200.
OPPOSITE: WOOL-
VISCOSE DRESS, £1,840.
LEATHER SLING BAG,
£1,775. LEATHER CLOGS,
£800. ALL THE ROW,
FROM A SELECTION,
AT MYTHERESA.COM,
NET-A-PORTER.COM AND
SAKS FIFTH AVENUE
piece by piece, first by selling to a Los heavy silk mikado or ethereal organza.
Angeles boutique. “For every T-shirt Shoes, bags and small leather goods are
sold, we could make two more,” smiles just as exquisite: from the enormous
Mary-Kate. “Then Barneys picked it up, crocodile or ostrich-skin handbags to tiny
and we developed some more pieces, wristlets crafted in polished, 3D-printed
took them to Paris, hired a salesperson… resin, distressed satin combat boots to
it was baby steps.” In an industry often those mink slippers. They pay little heed
suspicious of celebrity designers, it is no to trends – if anything, they seem to have
small feat that they made their mark. “It
was very hard at the beginning,” Ashley
remembers. “And actually, probably until
the past couple of years. But we don’t
really take things personally. For us, sell-
throughs were the only thing we really
cared about.” If that has been their main
concern, it is easily dismissed: sales have
been brilliant, thanks to the sort of
women for whom the Olsens’ former
careers are of little interest (anyone
spending £8,000 on a cashmere coat is
unlikely to be doing so because its
designers were in the 1999 comedy
Passport to Paris).
Money is often no object for The
Row’s customers; on one trip to the LA
store, I asked why there were no mink
slippers on display: the store attendant
explained that a woman had swooped
in and bought 15 pairs for her dinner
party guests to wear (at £1,450 apiece).
Natalie Kingham, buying director at
Matchesfashion.com, where the brand
is stocked heavily, says “there is no price
resistance to the collection” and that it
maintains a particularly loyal following.
In truth, part of the reason the Olsens
understand this world is because they
inhabit it: they were once the youngest
self-made millionaires in American
history, Mary-Kate is married to French
financier Olivier Sarkozy, and the sisters
have built their personal aesthetic on the
bohemian insouciance and artful
dishevelment only the monied can
afford. Equally, they are on first-name
terms with plenty of their best customers
– in their early years, they’d hold intimate
dinners with retailers to familiarise
themselves with their market. It was a
savvy move, and one that has informed
their business ever since. “I feel really
fortunate to be very close with those
women, and they really do dictate where
we go season to season,” says Mary-Kate.
“When we design, we’re designing for
specific clients… We understand what “WE LOVE
their day looks like, how and when they
travel…” Ashley takes over: “What
FABRICS –
they’re looking for at a certain time of set the fashion agenda in recent seasons, EVERYTHING
year, what events come up, their families.”
That understanding means that The
during which modern minimalism has
been the standout aesthetic.
COMES DOWN
Row covers all bases: collections comprise While The Row’s sometimes monastic TO THE WAY
everything from expertly crafted, minimal
tailoring (the recently launched menswear
silhouettes and strict palette can appear
austere on the hanger, there is nothing SOMETHING
has as many female fans as it does men) more sensual than wearing it on the FEELS”
to sumptuous, sculptural eveningwear in body. “We love fabrics – everything >
comes down to the way something of Savile Row. Each store has a different
feels,” says Ashley. These are clothes that feel, but they are united by a tasteful
drape weightlessly, are cut to flatter and eclecticism and the selection of products
on which every stitch, every fastening the sisters find to fill them.
is forensically considered. In fact, it’s “Whether presenting a collection in
difficult to leave a Row store without a Dover Street Market store alongside a
draining your bank account in an effort Jean Prouvé sculpture or notable piece
to channel the aspirational elegance with of furniture, The Row excels at quietly
communicating its values and aesthetic
beyond ready-to-wear by exploring the
Olsens’ taste in design as a broader
concept,” explains Dickon Bowden,
vice-president of Dover Street Market
(The Row does a roaring trade in five
of its global stores). “We love curating;
we love discovering new products and
vintage pieces,” says Ashley. “And
London will be totally different, but very
much The Row,” continues Mary-Kate.
They hope that moving here will
introduce London’s international elite to
their vision; that the creative energy of
the capital will permeate their new home
and the brand as a whole. “There’s still
a craft in London. There’s authenticity;
there are a lot of artisans that are based
there,” reflects Mary-Kate. “And the art
scene is amazing,” enthuses Ashley. “And
music! You’ve got such great music!”
Sitting with the Olsens is a bizarre
experience because, in spite of their huge
success – and the fact that neither has an
Instagram account, which only amplifies
their mystique – they seem remarkably
normal young women. Yes, they finish
each other’s sentences, brush each other’s
carefully tousled hair back from their
faces, and claim to spend “every waking
hour” together, but they are twins who
have grown up in each other’s pockets,
so that’s to be expected. Indeed, the
most curious thing about them is their
unrelenting drive. They don’t have to
work, yet regularly put in six-day weeks,
merchandise their stores themselves, and
are involved in each and every brand
decision – from fabric choices to the
nuances of developing an e-commerce
platform. “There is a lot of pressure we
put on ourselves,” says Mary-Kate. “I
feel like we’re really lucky that we have
a great partnership and that we can rely
on each other for support, because I can
imagine it can be so lonely.” When I ask
where that pressure comes from, they
“IF YOU WANT immediately answer in sync: “It’s self-
THINGS TO inflicted.” Mary-Kate continues, “If you
want things to be perfect or beautiful,
BE PERFECT, which each piece is saturated. Now, that it’s a lot of hard work… Nothing comes
IT’S A LOT OF terrifyingly appealing proposition is
coming to London.
easy. That’s just the way we were raised;
that’s what we believe is necessary to do
HARD WORK…” Pencilled to open this summer, the something different.”
British store will be The Row’s third In a time of frenetic pace and quick-fire
– after LA and New York – and is almost success, their quiet, meticulously curated
a homecoming, since the brand’s very world is just that: different. And for that
name is a nod to the precision tailoring reason, it’s entirely compelling. Q
“THERE IS A LOT OF
PRESSURE WE PUT ON
OURSELVES,” SAYS
MARY-KATE. “I FEEL LIKE
WE’RE REALLY LUCKY
THAT WE HAVE A GREAT
PARTNERSHIP, BECAUSE
I CAN IMAGINE IT
CAN BE SO LONELY.”
OPPOSITE: WOOL/
SILK BELTED JACKET,
£3,380. ORGANZA
SHIRTDRESS, £1,940.
THIS PAGE: STRETCH-
WOOL JUMPSUIT, £1,860.
SILK-ORGANZA TOP,
£800. ALL THE ROW,
FROM A SELECTION, AT
DOVER STREET MARKET,
MATCHESFASHION.COM,
NET-A-PORTER.COM AND
SAKS FIFTH AVENUE.
FOR STOCKISTS, ALL
PAGES, SEE VOGUE
INFORMATION.
HAIR: ORLANDO PITA.
MAKE-UP: FRANCELLE
DALY. NAILS: YUKO
TSUCHIHASHI. DIGITAL
ARTWORK: GLOSS.
MODELS: FREJA BEHA
ERICHSEN, BINX WALTON.
THE OLSENS’ HAIR
AND MAKE-UP: MARK
TOWNSEND AND
ANA MARIE RIZZIERI
TRAVELLING
LIGHT
UTILITY MEETS BOHEMIA
FOR A LUXE HOLIDAY
SPIRIT THAT TRANSLATES
PERFECTLY INTO
THE SEASON AHEAD.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY
RICHARD BUSH. STYLING
BY SARAH RICHARDSON
MERGERS AND ACQUISITIONS: BLUE-COLLAR SHIRTING
IS THE IDEAL FOIL TO CHLOE’S HIPPIE SUMMER COAT.
YOUR SUMMER SHOPPING LIST STARTS HERE.
TAPESTRY COAT, £4,745, CHLOE. SKY-BLUE SHIRT, £99,
BOSS. PALE BLUE OVERSIZED LINEN SHIRT, £315, MARGARET
HOWELL. LEATHER AND SNAKESKIN SLIDES, £620, MARNI.
EARRINGS, THROUGHOUT, FROM A LOCAL SOUK
HOW TO IMMEDIATELY
ELEVATE A HAND-HEWN
TEPEE? EASY: INTRODUCE
AN HERMES SHIRT AND
LOEWE’S PATCHWORK
SUEDE A-LINE TO THE MIX.
THIS PAGE: COTTON-TOILE
TUNIC, £4,036, HERMES.
PATCHWORK SUEDE
CULOTTES, £2,175, LOEWE.
SLIPPERS, £26, BOHEMIA
DESIGN. BRACELET WALLET,
£350, JIL SANDER. BOX
BAG, £6,250, MOYNAT.
DIOR’S INTRICATELY
EMBELLISHED KAFTAN IS
A HOMAGE TO THE TRAVEL
ESSENTIAL. WHEN IT’S
THIS GOOD, YOU NEEDN’T
WEAR ANYTHING ELSE.
OPPOSITE: EMBROIDERED
184 COTTON TUNIC, £5,500, DIOR
IN THE DESERT,
OR IN THE CITY,
SANDY NEUTRALS
ARE THE SURPRISE
HIT OF THE SEASON.
OPPOSITE: COTTON TUNIC
DRESS, £850, LOEWE.
COTTON TROUSERS,
TAPERED BY STYLIST, £765,
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO.
SLIDES, AS BEFORE.
PURSE NECKLACE, £695,
GABRIELA HEARST, AT
MATCHESFASHION.COM.
PYRAMID CLUTCH,
£3,800, MOYNAT.
LAYER UP: BOSS’S
PINSTRIPE SHIRTING
TAKES ON A WHOLE NEW
CHARACTER WHEN WORN
WITH INSOUCIANT EASE.
THIS PAGE: SUEDE CAPE,
£1,135, LONGCHAMP. SHIRT,
£295. SHIRTS, BUTTONED
TOGETHER AND WORN AS
SKIRT, £295 EACH. ALL
BOSS. SLIDES, PURSE
NECKLACE AND PYRAMID
CLUTCH, AS BEFORE 289
LOOSE-FITTING WHITES
PRESENT A SHORTCUT
TO NONCHALANCE. TEAM
WITH MOYNAT’S ORNATELY
STUDDED BOX BAG
FOR A TOUCH OF
ARTISANAL GLAMOUR.
FROM LEFT: GISELLE WEARS
LEATHER SHIRT, £2,575.
COTTON TROUSERS, £900.
LEATHER SHOES, £520.
ALL JIL SANDER. BOX
BAG, £4,000, MOYNAT.
REBECCA WEARS CAMEL
COTTON SHIRT, £720, JIL
SANDER. LINEN-CREPE
SHIRTDRESS, £1,750.
LINEN-CREPE TROUSERS,
TAPERED BY STYLIST,
£1,060. BOTH LORO
PIANA. UTILITY BELT BAG,
£995, GABRIELA HEARST,
AT MYTHERESA.COM.
MINI BELT BAG, £410.
CROSSBODY WALLET,
£390. BOTH JIL SANDER.
SLIDES, AS BEFORE
WHETHER THROWN
OVER A SHOULDER OR
WRAPPED UP WARM,
VETEMENTS’S TAPESTRY-
PRINT COAT IS THE
ULTIMATE LAYERING PIECE.
THIS PAGE: TRENCH COAT
WITH SCARF DETAIL, £2,300,
VETEMENTS, AT MATCHES
FASHION.COM. COTTON
SHIRTDRESS, £795,
AGNONA. SLIPPERS,
£26, BOHEMIA DESIGN.
BAG, AS BEFORE.
ANYONE WHO DOESN’T
BELIEVE IN THE
PRACTICALITY OF A
MICRO-BAG ISN’T TRYING
HARD ENOUGH. MULTIPLY
AND AFFIX TO EVERYTHING.
OPPOSITE: COTTON SHIRT,
£1,100, VALENTINO.
COTTON TROUSERS, £455,
DOLCE & GABBANA. SAFETY-
PIN MINI POUCH BAG, £210.
MINI WALLET, £350. BOTH
JIL SANDER. BOX BAG AND
SLIPPERS, AS BEFORE.
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HAIR: NEIL MOODIE.
MAKE-UP: MATHIAS VAN
HOOFF. LOCAL PRODUCER:
SUPER PRODUCTION.
DIGITAL ARTWORK: LOVE
RETOUCH. MODELS:
REBECCA LEIGH
LONGENDYKE, GISELLE
NORMAN. WITH THANKS
TO LA MAMOUNIA
292 HOTEL, MARRAKESH
DANGER!
HIGH
VOLTAGE!
SPRING’S TASTE FOR
1980S NOSTALGIA YIELDS
HIGHLY CHARGED
RESULTS. SHORT AND
TIGHT SPELLS SEXY AGAIN.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY
CHARLOTTE WALES.
STYLING BY POPPY KAIN
CELINE’S GLISTENING PUFFBALL REQUIRES
ONLY BARELY-THERE SHOES. SEQUINED TAFFETA
BUSTIER DRESS, TO ORDER, CELINE BY HEDI
SLIMANE. GOLD, DIAMOND, RUBELLITE AND EMERALD
CHOKER, BULGARI. LEATHER SANDALS, £450, GINA.
HAIR: JAWARA. MAKE-UP: HIROMI UEDA. NAILS:
PEBBLES AIKENS. CHOREOGRAPHY: PAT BOGUSLAWSKI.
PRODUCTION: MINI TITLE. DIGITAL ARTWORK:
STUDIO RM. MODEL: ANNA EWERS
192
ONE WORD: FEARLESS.
SAINT LAURENT’S CUT-AWAY
BODYSUIT IS CALLING
ALL EXHIBITIONISTS.
THIS PAGE: TWISTED
SILK-GEORGETTE BODY,
£2,565, SAINT LAURENT BY
ANTHONY VACCARELLO.
FELT HAT, £420, VICTORIA
GRANT. VINTAGE EARRINGS,
£38. VINTAGE BRACELETS,
FROM £45 EACH.
ALL GILLIAN HORSUP.
FLYING UNDER NEW
COLOURS, ESCADA IS
BURSTING WITH DARING
OPTIONS FOR SPRING.
OPPOSITE: LEATHER
BLAZER, £2,290, ESCADA.
LEATHER GLOVES, £120,
FRATELLI ORSINI, AT
AMAZON.CO.UK.
LEATHER BAG, FROM
£3,425, VERSACE
SKIRT SUITS ARE BACK
IN VOGUE BUT SOBER
PALETTES AREN’T
COMPULSORY. GUCCI’S
BUBBLEGUM TWO-PIECE IS
DECIDEDLY OUT-OF-OFFICE.
THIS PAGE: LEATHER
BLAZER, £3,120. LEATHER
SKIRT, £1,610. BOTH
GUCCI. LEATHER GLOVES,
£120, FRATELLI ORSINI,
AT AMAZON.CO.UK.
TAKE INSPIRATION FROM
SPRING’S ZESTY PALETTE
AND ADD A VIBRANT
ACID-WASH YELLOW TO
YOUR EYES. YSL BEAUTY’S
VERNIS A LEVRES PRIMARY
COLOUR LIP STAIN IN
YELLOW AMPLIFIER, £27, IS
THE PERFECT MATCH.
OPPOSITE: BRA AND
BANDEAU TOP, TO ORDER,
EMPORIO ARMANI.
YELLOW BELT, £324,
ATTICO. JERSEY
LEGGINGS, TO ORDER,
DOLCE & GABBANA.
LEATHER BAG, FROM
£1,075, VERSACE.
EARRINGS, £380,
OSCAR DE LA RENTA
DONATELLA VERSACE
IS A WHIZZ AT MICRO
PROPORTIONS. HER
RUCHED MINI DEMANDS
A FLASHBULB MOMENT.
THIS PAGE: LEATHER TOP,
FROM £1,789. LEATHER
SKIRT, FROM £1,200.
LEATHER BAG, FROM
£1,980. ALL VERSACE.
LEATHER SANDALS,
£385, STUART WEITZMAN.
DO YOU HAVE A SEDUCTION
DRESS? MODERN
COQUETTES SHOULD
TAP UP BALENCIAGA.
OPPOSITE: LYCRA DRESS,
£4,300, BALENCIAGA.
EARRINGS, AS BEFORE
MELLOW YELLOW?
AS IF. MAX MARA’S
BEROCCA DRESS IS
INSTANTLY ENERGISING.
OPPOSITE: ASYMMETRIC
DRESS, £380. PEPLUM BELT,
£340. BOTH MAX MARA.
LEATHER SANDALS, £575,
JIMMY CHOO. EARRINGS, AS
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£40, GILLIAN HORSUP.
BELT BAGS ARE THE BIG
NEW IDEA IN ACCESSORIES.
SET NEXT TO MOSCHINO’S
SHARPIE SQUIGGLES, THEY
FEEL WONDERFULLY FLIRTY.
THIS PAGE: CROPPED
COTTON TOP, £380.
COTTON SKIRT, £450.
BOTH MOSCHINO. LEATHER
BELT BAG, TO ORDER,
DOLCE & GABBANA.
EARRINGS, AS BEFORE.
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THE IRVING PENN FOUNDATION
I
am snooping in the larder at a breathwork retreat in (of inflammatory markers) in three months. What’s more – shock
Gloucestershire when I spot an enticing black-and- horror – he had not been sticking to the ketogenic diet.
gold glass bottle: “Klotho Formula, microbial complex, I have to get on that stuff. Supplies are limited, though.
food supplement, made in Switzerland.” I unscrew The Swiss clinic can make only enough for 800 people to
the lid. Empty! I was hoping to pinch one, though take it a year, and the cost is prohibitive at £5,000 for a three-
God knows, one probiotic wasn’t going to make a month supply of two capsules daily, presented in a satin-lined
difference, not even one called “Immortalis”. mahogany box. Most people, I am told, try it for three months
“What are these?” I ask our host. and then sign up for a year’s supply at £20,000. It’s got the
“Pull up a chair,” he says, stirring butter and coconut oil rarity of luxury goods, the promise of a magic bullet, and, far
into his “bulletproof ” coffee: a high-fat, low-carb, “clean” less irrationally, it exploits the potential for healing in our gut
ketogenic diet is part of the Immortalis protocol, along with microbiome, the place that is the future of medicine.
drinking water, meditation and exercise. If I want in, I’m Our microbiome is being compromised by the increase in
going to have to comply. antibiotic-resistant bugs, and Sally Davies, chief medical
In 2017 Marco Ruggiero, a retired professor of molecular advisor to the UK Government, has said we are headed for
biology, launched what we laypeople call a probiotic “post-antibiotic apocalypse”. The solution lies, says Eve
supplement, which contains 10 bacteria commonly found in Kalinik, nutritional therapist and author of Be Good to Your
the human microbiome, as well as vitamins D and E, Gut, “not in antibiotics but in probiotics”. Instead of killing
chondroitin sulphate, colostrum and kefir. These work together our microbiome, we can tweak it to fight all kinds of issues.
to produce something similar to the human protein Klotho. “The research is developing on a daily basis,” she says. “In
We need Klotho to repair cell damage, but you can’t eat it, 10 years, what we know now will look Neanderthal.”
inject it or transplant it, and until now, no one has claimed The human body contains many trillions of microbes. Their
to be able to get it into the human body. But, Ruggiero claims, interactions create vitamins, break down our food, fight
the Klotho these bacteria produce in your gut will in turn, infections and communicate with our genes: without a
through “quantum entanglement” (when unconnected cells microbiome we are royally buggered. A healthy person has
can communicate), instruct our bodies to make Klotho, too; several hundred different species of microbes in their gut; an
not just that, his concoction will also make time slow down unhealthy person can have as few as 30.
through “relative time dilation”, so that cells have a better Caroline Le Roy, a researcher at King’s College London,
chance of repairing themselves before they get damaged or has co-authored several studies on the microbiome. “The
mutated. In short, Ruggiero states that Klotho Formula “will microbiome has amazing potential. For example, it predicts
induce age-reversal”. It’s Benjamin Button stuff. your visceral fat mass,” she says. Like genes, it dictates who
Grappling with quantum physics is not normal behaviour we are to the point that some have mooted that we are
for me, but life changes when you start communing with completely steered by this quantum universe. Before the day
your microbiome. Could the science behind this bacterial when doctors start prescribing medical-grade probiotics
brew really stand up? If so, this is the secret of eternal youth. targeted to treat illnesses, she says, we will see them being
Surely it’s rubbish? My host insists that after a year on the prescribed alongside drugs. All drugs, not just antibiotics,
microbes, he is planning his 150th birthday. “All I know is I including over-the-counter ones, can affect the microbiome
feel great, and,” he removes his beanie, “my bald patch has gone.” to some extent. I tell Le Roy about Immortalis, and the claims
Only a few hundred people take it, including Middle Eastern that it can tweak the biome to create life-lengthening Klotho
and Hollywood royalty. This is fun to hear but unverifiable. and help us live to 150. She laughs cynically and shrugs (she
The Immortalis website is password protected after the first is French). “It is not impossible.” But she does not really take
page: “Welcome to the greatest health-science innovation in the claims seriously, and suggests the best thing we can do
history.” There are testimonials. Francine in England: “I am 57. is “eat organic seasonal veg, particularly cruciferous ones, and
I feel 35 again.” Jill in San Diego, 79: “… a subtle yet powerful Jerusalem artichokes – there is a lot of research into their
decrease in the jittery feeling of anxiousness and unease”. benefits on the microbiome. Eat lots of fibre and fruit,
Ruggiero, who left academia to found a Swiss company unpasteurised cheese, nuts, healthy fats, dark chocolate…”
developing microbiome medicine, has touted his theories at And what about probiotics and “symbiotics” (with added
conferences and in medical journals for some time. Is he snake- ingredients to activate the bacteria)? Their global market has
oil salesman or renegade scientist? He has done no clinical trials risen from nearly $15 billion in 2007 to over $40 billion in
because he doesn’t need to – it’s only a supplement – but 2017. “And expected to go to $66 billion in 2024. I’m not usually
customers are encouraged to do before-and-after blood tests. a probiotic fan,” says Le Roy. “Many introduce just a few bacterial
One man described a 70 per cent reduction in his PINI score strains in large numbers, but it is getting better.” > 222
203
This page: a Fritz Hansen
sofa and chairs add
cosiness to the library,
which leads on to a
cinema room – its walls
featuring hand-painted
The Hindustan wallpaper
by Zuber. Opposite:
Christian Louboutin
in “the party room”.
The shoe designer sourced
the tiles in Portugal and
found the rug at a Paris
auction house – it
originally came from the
Château de Groussay,
where, coincidentally,
he spent weekends as
a teenager. Grooming:
Jill Hornby. Production:
Bruno Delfino at Shoot
Portugal. Digital artwork:
Processus Photo. Sittings
editor: Gianluca Longo
204
High
splendour SHOE DESIGNER CHRISTIAN
LOUBOUTIN’S LISBON VILLA BEARS
ALL THE HALLMARKS OF HIS
EXTRAVAGANT TASTE, FINDS ELLIE PITHERS.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY FRANÇOIS HALARD
O
ne bright afternoon in Lisbon, Christian Louboutin
is trying to decide where to go for dinner. He
gives his guests three choices, denoted by the
letters “M”, “V” and “F”, and calls a vote. “M”
stands for the restaurant where the speciality is mushrooms.
“The staff are so rude, it’s not a very nice place, but the
mushrooms are amazing,” he says. “V” is for view. “It’s
traditional food and the view over Lisbon is incroyable.” “F”
is for fado, the mournful Portuguese folk music. “I hate fado,
it’s so depressing. But this is manageable – it’s almost like
flamenco.” Each person writes down a letter on a scrap of
paper and casts it into Louboutin’s trilby. I pull out the winner:
fado. “That’s the answer I wanted!” he yelps, merrily.
Louboutin, 56, likes options. How else to explain the eight
residences he flits between according to his whim? There is
an apartment near the Opéra area of Paris; a 13th-century
château in the Vendée region of France, co-owned with his
business partner Bruno Chambelland; a house and a dahabiya,
a traditional two-masted sailing boat, near Luxor in Egypt;
an apartment in LA; a Brazilian bolthole in Rio de Janeiro;
a semi-destroyed palace in Aleppo, Syria; a compound of
beach villas in Melides, on Portugal’s Alentejo coast; and this
villa in Lisbon’s historic old town, another joint venture with
Chambelland, in which we are sipping mint tea. “I have
houses in places where there has been a lot of culture,” he
shrugs. “I would never have a house on an island with two
coconuts.” He pauses. “But, I don’t consider that I have a
house in LA because I sort of gave it to a friend of mine.
And I haven’t been to Aleppo since 2010. A part of the house
is still standing, but I just feel bad about what has happened
in the country more than I care about the house.”
Louboutin spends most of his time in Paris, where he was
born, and where, in 1991, he set up his phenomenally
successful shoe business. Instantly recognisable by their blood-
red soles, more than 800,000 pairs of Louboutins are produced high in the Alfama neighbourhood and boasts an invigorating
a year. Those shoes, as well as the handbag, beauty and view of the Tagus Estuary. It dates from the 16th century,
perfume divisions they spawned, have financed his prodigious but was razed during the 1755 earthquake. The ruins were
wanderlust: weekends often involve jaunts to the Vendée, then bought by a Portuguese family who subsequently
where he has cultivated a magnificent garden (in his twenties, emigrated to Brazil to trade in precious wood. When they
he spent a year working as a landscape gardener). Every returned, they brought a Brazilian sensibility with them. “The
March, he travels to Egypt to check on the progress of the house is pretty traditional, but I like that it feels colourful,”
archaeological mission he co-sponsors: the restoration of the Louboutin says. “It’s lighter than all that very dark, dark
Colossi of Memnon and the Temple of Amenhotep III. Portuguese wood. The colours are more lively and playful.”
Summers are spent between Melides and Lisbon, where he Still, the house needed updating when Louboutin eventually
designs the winter collections. There are myriad work trips took possession of it. He immediately set about sourcing a
abroad – the company operates some 158 stores worldwide pair of figura de convite, life-size tiled cut-outs of footmen
– accompanied by his butler, Safquat. Somehow, he still finds that traditionally reside at the entrances of palaces to welcome
time to explore uncharted waters: when we meet, he is visitors. He also engaged a local architect, Maria Madalene
planning to see in the New Year in Senegal with his Portuguese Caiado, to help reunite the house, which had been split into
boyfriend, Rui Freitas, 33, a florist who has just opened an three separate apartments. Over a period of two and a half
interiors shop called Vida Dura in Melides. years, the ground floor was refurbished as a modern, self-
Opposite: clockwise
Their love affair partly explains his desire for a pad in contained living space; the first floor entirely redecorated from top left, an original
Lisbon, where Freitas is based. That said, Louboutin has with locally sourced tiled panels from the Napoleonic period Jean-Charles Moreux
table dominates the
been coming to Portugal since the early 1980s. “Lisbon has and stuccoed ceilings commissioned from nearby Cascais; library, which features
changed a lot, but it’s still beautiful,” he says. He wanted to and the second-floor bedrooms made over with ensuite an original wooden arch;
buy an apartment here, so that he could stop-over on his way bathrooms and modern-day heating. a detail inside the former
billiard room – now a
from Melides to Lisbon airport, but Chambelland said it was The result is jaw-dropping decadence. Upon entry, one sitting room filled with
madness. “I always rely on what Bruno says, because he’s ascends a grand staircase, its walls boasting a tropical mural Syrian tables; the terrace
definitely smarter than me, so I didn’t buy the apartment,” by the Bulgarian artist Boris Deltchev. Light streams through overlooks the Tagus
Estuary; Louboutin found
he recalls. “Then, a month later, he found this house. I said, jewel-toned glass windows, illuminating emerald-painted this French chandelier
‘Are you crazy? You wouldn’t let me buy an apartment, now leaves drifting into faint sketches in the farthest corners, an at a bazaar in India.
Above: the Wedgwood
you want me to buy a house?’ He said, ‘Oh, but it’s very pretty.’ effect that recalls the marks left by ivy when it’s prised away Room, where Louboutin
He was right, of course.” from an old wall. On we go to the tiled ballroom, empty added a fireplace lined
“Pretty” doesn’t do justice to the scale of this imposing save for a velvet-upholstered boudoir sofa, a couple of with panels from a
Portuguese fountain,
palace. Tiled with the elaborate azulejo tiles that have rendered cabinets topped with curiosities – a tribal marriage token offset by a bronze Janine
Lisbon an Instagrammer’s delight, it stands three storeys from Maprik, Papua New Guinea, an assortment of > Janet unicorn sculpture
blue-and-white Chinese porcelain, a papier-mâché lizard – Italy, I say, ‘Hold on a second, there was a prototype I was
and two Indo-Portuguese chairs purchased in a Parisian flea working on two seasons ago that I set aside because it could
market. “This is the party room,” Louboutin explains, recalling have been better. Where is it now?’ They are like, ‘Oh, God.
a recent celebration: a candlelit dinner for 80 guests in honour Out of 500 prototypes he’s talking about one he made a year
of the journalist Suzy Menkes. “It got so hot with all those and a half ago.’ But I absolutely remember things like that.”
candles, we had to throw open all the windows.” His aesthetic sensitivity is similarly acute and affects the
Then there are the chandeliers. Louboutin has a close friend mood with which he constructs his interior schemes. Murano
living and working in Murano, and it shows: curlicued glass chandeliers, for instance, would “never, never, never” work in
and huge beaded exemplars quiver beneath intricately painted his Paris apartment. “I like coloured glass with the transparency
ceilings throughout the house. “When it came to the ceilings, of the light going through – it needs to be in sunlight. Paris
I thought, well, we can’t hide them. So, we embraced them, is too grey.” Equally, the dark, heavy haute époque furniture
adding colour [fondant pink, pistachio, ruby red] and gold in his Lisbon dining room – the only pieces he kept when
leaf,” says Louboutin. “Once the ceilings were painted, I he inherited the property – works within the stencilled walls
decided not to have French crystal chandeliers, but more of this traditional gallery, “but it’s not something I would
colourful ones, so it felt super-pompous. I just thought, let’s consider anywhere else”.
go for it!” In the cinema room, its walls illustrated with scenes His impulsive desire to acquire coupled with a professional
of India, hangs a multi-pronged iteration smothered with eye explains the eclectic mix of decades and styles throughout
sea shells. “I have a history with chandeliers,” Louboutin his home. In the library, a set of fluffy armchairs by Fritz
sighs. “I bought this years ago – I found it in India but it’s Hansen sit alongside a Native American kachina doll and a
a French piece – and kept it in storage until now. It took 17th-century Peruvian Christ. In what Louboutin calls the
weeks to reassemble.” Wedgwood Room, on account of its pale jasperware-blue
Above, from left: the An auction nut, Louboutin is never more excited than ceiling, a Janine Janet bronze unicorn sits alongside a south
flower room, where
Louboutin’s florist
when truffling out antiques that others have overlooked. His Indian torso sculpture and an Indonesian crown purchased
boyfriend Rui Freitas best prize yet is the Jean-Charles Moreux marble table that when Louboutin visited Borobudur, the Buddhist temple in
assembles arrangements; sits in the library, which even he didn’t realise was an original Java. They are offset by a 1930s Mexican table and a pair of
the entrance hall, with its
grand staircase, features and almost chopped in half so that Freitas could use it as a satin-backed tub armchairs from America. On the wall hangs
a tropical mural by cuttings bench for his flowers. “Someone saw it outside in a 16th-century portrait of Louis de Beauvau, a smug-looking
Bulgarian artist Boris the rain and said, ‘This is one of the most important tables military man with extraordinarily shapely legs.
Deltchev. Opposite: the
billiard room-turned- in the world! Are you out of your mind?’ And then I realised The legs, it turns out, are the very thing that lured
sitting room, where he was right. It’s an original.” His bidding philosophy is Louboutin in. “I think his legs are incredible – so elegant.”
Louboutin takes coffee.
He added the ceiling
simple: if you adore it, buy it. “You only regret what you don’t He pauses. “When I am doing shoes, I am always thinking
fretwork after buying the get,” he says. What did he buy at the last auction? “A staircase. first of legs. The idea of having nude on your shoe gives you
house, commissioning I have no idea who it is by, but I know it’s incredible.” better legs. He has white stockings and white shoes – I was
artisans in nearby
Cascais to create the His visual memory is razor-sharp. “It drives everybody fascinated by that.” The only thing that could improve it?
intricate stucco design crazy,” he laughs. “For instance, when I go to the factory in A flash of red peeking out. “I owe a lot to red.” Q
THIS SEASON’S
GOLD AND PRECIOUS
STONES RESEMBLE
FROM
RICHES CRAFTED IN
AN ANCIENT WORLD.
IT’S TIME TO UNLEASH
BYZANTIUM
YOUR INNER EMPRESS,
SAYS CAROL WOOLTON.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY
NICK KNIGHT
212
OPPOSITE: TIARA,
SOLANGE AZAGURY-
PARTRIDGE. PERIDOT
AND SPINEL EARRINGS,
BULGARI. GOLD AND
DIAMOND NECKLACE,
HERMES. GOLD-VERMEIL
CUFF, £1,600, SHAUN
LEANE. WHITE-GOLD AND
AMETHYST CUFF, CHOPARD.
RUBELLITE RING, ARA
VARTANIAN. GOLD AND
SILVER COIN RING, BULGARI.
THIS PAGE: GOLD, OPAL,
TOPAZ AND PEARL EARRINGS,
WORN IN HAIR, £6,100, ELIE
TOP. GOLD HOOP NECKLACE,
ALEXANDRA JEFFORD.
MEYA PROSPERITY PEAR-
SHAPED DIAMOND, GRAFF.
PRICES ON REQUEST
UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED.
FOR STOCKISTS, ALL PAGES,
SEE VOGUE INFORMATION
END
GAME
IT WAS THE
PHENOMENON THAT
CHANGED THE FACE
OF TELEVISION – AND
THE LIVES OF THE
WOMEN WHO STARRED
IN IT. AS THE FINAL
SEASON AIRS, FOUR
LEADING BRITS BID
FAREWELL TO GAME
OF THRONES. BY ZING
TSJENG. PHOTOGRAPHS
BY JACK DAVISON.
STYLING BY
NELL KALONJI
The atmosphere
is less Red Wedding
massacre, more
congenial college
reunion. From left:
Sophie Turner wears
asymmetric jersey
dress, from £3,790,
Givenchy. Shirt,
£165, Richard James.
Poloneck, £109, Falke.
Gwendoline Christie
wears satin dress,
£5,700, Balenciaga.
Lena Headey wears
satin blouse, £1,295,
Balenciaga. Maisie
Williams wears
silk-crêpe dress, from
£6,170, Givenchy.
Poloneck, £109, Falke.
Hair: Mari Ohashi.
Make-up: Mathias van
Hooff. Nails: Michelle
Class. Set design:
Alice Kirkpatrick.
Digital artwork:
Studio RM
“NONE OF US KNEW…
YOU DO YOUR AUDITION,
YOU GET A JOB AND
THEN YOU THINK, ‘WILL
ANYONE WATCH THIS?’”
I
n leafy Dulwich, south London, four stars from Game
of Thrones convene in a Georgian house for Vogue.
With the sky outside a washed-out grey, the jewel-
like colours of their Balenciaga and Givenchy gowns
are almost obscenely bright.
In the fictional world of Westeros, a mighty
gathering such as this would be a prelude to war. After all,
these women play four of the strongest characters on the
blockbuster HBO series that helped revitalise the TV
landscape, launched a thousand water-cooler conversations,
won 47 Emmys and turned a generation of British talent,
including this foursome, into bankable global stars.
If Game of Thrones proves anything, it’s that it requires full
commitment – to gore, intricate plotting and gargantuan
world-building – to craft a cultural phenomenon. Same-day
viewers quadrupled since the first season, in 2011; cross-
platform numbers for the seventh season averaged 30.6 million
viewers per episode – more than the populations of Greece
and Belgium combined; and for seven consecutive years it
was the world’s most pirated TV show. Fans breathlessly pore
over every last detail that emerges from the notoriously tight-
lipped set, right down to the size of the green screens being
used or the choice of crown deployed for each character. The
series has dispelled the idea that fantasy is solely for male
dweebs. It’s no understatement to say that the forthcoming the musician Joe Jonas, while Williams has launched Daisie,
eighth season – the show’s final six instalments – is the most a social networking platform for creatives. “The older ones of
exciting TV comeback of the year. us always go, ‘Look, it’s f**king killed us!’” Headey laughs.
Lena Headey, 45, who plays merciless Queen Cersei, arrives “Then you watch Maisie, who arrived as a baby, and Soph,
first on set in a shaggy faux fur-trimmed Acne coat – a post- who are now these incredible women. It’s just bonkers.”
Christmas gift to herself, she tells me. Gwendoline Christie, It’s easy to forget this TV goliath was once a risky
whose 6ft 3in frame led to her casting as noble warrior Brienne, proposition. Game of Thrones arrived in 2011, a decidedly
appears in a necklace and dressing gown. “There she is! The unmagical time in entertainment. The Lord of the Rings trilogy
lady of the day!” Headey cries. Christie, 40, puts on her best had been and gone; the Harry Potter films had just wrapped.
fashion-assistant voice: “When you’re ready,” she demurs, as Critics turned up their noses at the idea of a fantasy series
if about to usher Headey on set. They burst into laughter. that combined CGI dragons with Tarantino-style violence
Sophie Turner, 23, now fronting the X-Men franchise with and West Wing-level political machinations. “None of us
a lead role in Dark Phoenix, shrieks when she sees Headey knew,” Headey says. “You do your audition, you get a job and
and zeroes in for a hug: “I haven’t seen you in ages!” Maisie then you think, ‘Will anyone watch this?’”
Williams, 21, who turned up earlier in leopard-print Dr But they did. After a slow-burning first season, executive
Martens, is already on the lookout for Turner. Both young producers David Benioff and Dan Weiss set the ratings on
actresses have fan armies of devoted teens who have jointly fire when they killed off their seeming central lead, Sean
crowned them #Mophie, but it appears no one is more devoted Bean’s ill-fated patriarch Ned Stark. Audiences were thrilled
to the pair than the girls are to each other. “Is she here yet?” to know that nobody on the show was safe – a fact confirmed “Maisie and Soph,
asks Williams, letting out an elated cry when she is informed by subsequent deaths in their multitudes. Beloved characters who arrived as
that her best friend from the show is, indeed, present. have been poisoned, stabbed, blown up, eaten by dogs, shot babies, are now these
incredible women.
The atmosphere is less Red Wedding massacre, more with arrows, starved, beheaded and burnt at the stake. It It’s just bonkers.”
congenial college reunion. The actors have been working makes for uniquely stressful viewing, with each instalment Opposite: Sophie
together for almost a decade. Thrones is a “big chunk of my of the final season costing a staggering $15 million (episodes wears wool/cotton
blazer, £1,700.
existence”, Christie says. Or, as Headey has it even more of Netflix’s big budget Stranger Things cost $8 million). Cashmere poloneck
directly, it’s been long enough for “two children and a divorce”. As the new season begins, Williams, Turner and Christie’s body, £1,400. Both
Louis Vuitton.
Williams and Turner were only 12 and 13 when they were characters are hunkered down in Winterfell, the ancestral Earring, price on
cast respectively as sisters Arya and Sansa Stark, the former a castle of the Stark clan. The army of the dead – led by request, Alan Crocetti.
tomboy turned assassin, the latter the brat who matured into terrifying supernatural warriors known as the White Walkers Above: Maisie wears
belted jacket, £1,395,
the queenly Lady Stark of Winterfell. Their lives have changed – are marching towards them. Further south, Cersei – newly Simone Rocha.
in real life, too, of course. Filming aside, Turner is engaged to pregnant by way of her long-term sexual relationship > Shirt, £109, Boss
219
“PEOPLE MAKE COMMENTS
LIKE, ‘IT’S A MISOGYNISTIC
SHOW.’ BUT THE PEOPLE
COMING OUT ON TOP
ARE WOMEN”
CONDÉ NAST INTERNATIONAL The merchandise featured editorially has been ordered from the following stores. Some shops For a really complex probiotic, you can’t get better
Chairman and Chief Executive:
Jonathan Newhouse
may carry a selection only. Prices and availability were checked at the time of going to press, than the faecal matter of a healthy person with a
President: Wolfgang Blau but we cannot guarantee that prices will not change or that specific items will be in stock when diverse gut flora. Faecal Microbiota Transplant
the magazine is published. We suggest that before visiting a shop you phone to make sure they
have your size. In case of difficulty, contact Vogue’s Merchandise Department (020 7499 (FMT), or poo transplants, have proved effective at
THE CONDÉ NAST
INTERNATIONAL 9080). Where unspecified, stockists are in London or general enquiry numbers are given. treating many conditions that modern medicine
GROUP OF BRANDS INCLUDES: cannot. Says Le Roy, “If you give someone obese
A Emporio Armani O
UK
Agnona 020 7225 5787 020 7491 8080 Omega 0845 272 3100 with type 2 diabetes an FMT from the microbiome
Vogue, House & Garden, Brides,
Tatler, The World of Interiors, GQ, Alancrocetti.com Erdem 020 3653 0360 Onarstudios.com of a skinny person, you can improve insulin sensitivity
Vanity Fair, Condé Nast Traveller, Alexandermcqueen.com Ermanno Scervino Oscar de la Renta
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GQ Style, Love, Wired, Condé Nast Alexandrevauthier.com Escada 020 7245 9800 Osmanlondon.com In the future, will a pill made of supermodel
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Ars Technica Amandawakeley.com Falke.com Pacorabanne.com droppings help the obese? Sadly, it’s not that simple.
Anissakermiche.com Fendi 020 7927 4178 Partsof4.com
FRANCE
Anndemeulemeester.com Frame-store.com Patek Philippe 020 7493 8866 There are hundreds of trials around the world into
Vogue, Vogue Hommes, AD,
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AD Collector, Vanity Fair, GQ Le Arket.com Ganni.com Piaget 0800 279 5110
Manuel du Style, Glamour Style Atelier Swarovski by Stephen Garrard 020 7518 1070 Piersatkinson.com diabetes, obesity, gut issues, autism, cancer and liver
ITALY
Webster Atelierswarovski.com Gerarddarel.com Pippasmall.com disease, a virus that sits quietly in one person’s gut
Atlein.com Gillianhorsup.com Pomellato 020 7355 0300
Vogue, Glamour, AD, Condé Atsukokudo.com Gina.com Ports1961.com can flare up when transplanted into another’s.
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Nevertheless, I nag my parents to consider FMT for
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B Goossens-paris.com R
Vogue, GQ, AD, Glamour,
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SPAIN Belmacz 020 7629 7863 H Richard-james.com
Vogue, GQ, Vogue Novias, Belstaff.co.uk Hermès 020 7499 8856 Rick Owens 020 7493 7145 mental health issues. The age of microbes for the
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Live at Television Centre
The restaurants are open. The studios are recording. The gym is buzzing.
And the apartments are completed and ready for living.
Centre Stage
PROPERTY | PROMOTION
Centre Stage
I
ABOVE, n the 17th and 18th centuries, Islington was considered
The design-led a tranquil retreat for holidaymakers seeking respite this Edwardian-meets-Modern masterpiece. The first
living spaces are from the mad flurry of life in central London. There were phase of penthouses sold out off-plan, but a second phase
finished to a high green fields, fine manors, a wine merchant and a spa resort, are also being released for sale. In addition, a collection of
standard of based around monastic springs on a former priory opposite maisonette apartments are available to buy. Interior finishes
refinement, style Sadler’s Wells Theatre. Roll forward several centuries… earn the Galliard ‘Platinum Collection’ stamp, with
and sustainability and, on a site tucked behind the 21st-century café culture of bespoke detailing such as brick feature walls, sleek oak
with outstanding Upper Street, you find Islington Square. Developed by flooring, coffered ceilings and period windows. Valcucine
and chic internal Cain International and Sager Group, in association with Artematica kitchen units with ‘A’-rated appliances and
specifications underfloor heating add contemporary style and comfort.
Galliard Homes, this new destination of 263 homes,
serviced apartments, retail outlets, restaurants and leisure With two covered shopping arcades linked by tree-lined
facilities taps into the historic association with wellbeing, boulevards to Upper Street, and a public realm spanning
matching contemporary design with debonair charm. 170,000 square feet – featuring a luxury cinema and a Third
Until 2015, the site was the North London Royal Mail Space health club, which boasts a 25m pool – Islington Square
sorting office. A trio of impressive buildings, with a spacious is being heralded as a £400million Covent Garden-style
reception area, comprise the residential element of this 4.5- destination. “We are pioneering the concept of wellness and
acre development, providing warehouse-style apartments, real estate working hand in hand, creating a much-needed,
luxury maisonettes and grand penthouses (each with a harmonious meditative space away from the hustle and
rooftop swimming pool and garden). As an architectural bustle of London and a wonderful line back to the site’s
entity, numbers 8, 11 and 17 Esther Anne Place merge historic focus on well-being,” says David Galman, Sales
Edwardian redbrick hallmarks with complementary new- Director at Galliard Homes.
build design. Peter Chan, the 21-time Chelsea Gold For further information, please call 020 3874 0927 or visit
medallist and Bonsai artist, will create London’s largest galliardhomes.com/islington-square
A Tale of Insta-appeal
What better way to mark 40 years as a forward-thinking, independent London agency than
to open a new office? Russell Simpson, established in Chelsea, predicts an exciting year ahead
for buyers and tenants with its expansion into Kensington and Notting Hill
S
pring, the season of renewal, is traditionally a time
when new homes are sought and the market blooms
with a flowering of properties available for sale or
to be let. For activity, opportunities, a forward-thinking
attitude and evidence of growth even in the challenging
environment of 2019, look no further than Russell
Simpson. The independent, family-run agency is
celebrating 40 years in prime central London with the
opening of a second office to meet the demands of its
flourishing sales and lettings departments.
For decades, Russell Simpson has sold and let some of
the most prestigious properties in Chelsea – exceptional
period mansions to luxury new-build apartments – from
an office based in a terraced house just off the King’s
Road. Not having a shop-front emphasised discretion and
considered service (the new office also operates from a we’ve created our own readership who follow our online
discreet location on Holland Street W8, between Notting magazine,” says Bertie. “People don’t read what’s landed
Hill and Kensington). The agency’s history of transactions through their letter box or even read their emails.
overseen with meticulous care translates into a depth of We WhatsApp and text clients. We’ve always taken a
experience and savviness that makes the close-knit team’s progressive approach to business.”
advice on all property matters highly valued. Established in Chelsea, Russell Simpson’s expertise has
“We have picked up a huge number of new enquiries,” long extended into Kensington and Notting Hill too. Busier
reports Bertie Russell, one of four of founder Alan Russell’s than ever, the second office will focus on expansion. The
CLOCKWISE
FROM TOP six children who work for the business, each developing familial manner that has always differentiated the agency
RIGHT, the different aspects of the boutique approach. “Clients like has added resonance today. “The recent downturn has
Russian House the fact that we’re not a big corporate giant and that we can made it much more of a residential market than an invest-
in The Vale; empathise with individual situations. Lettings have thrived ment market,” says Bertie. “We are dealing with more local
Leo, Hermione, off the back of Brexit. On the sales side, we have always buyers looking for family homes or convenient apartments
Alan, Bertie and been committed to giving advice for the long-term; we like and fewer speculative investors. Buyers are typically
Jake Russell; to present our clients with as many options as possible so becoming more and more open-minded about location.”
a grand artist’s that they are in a position to make the best decision.” For further information, please call Chelsea on 020 7225 0277
studio in Mallord Social media has proved vital in inspiring and or Kensington & Notting Hill on 020 3761 9691, email info@
Street, SW3 maintaining a connection with clients. “With Instagram, russellsimpson.co ussellsimpson.co
Centre Stage
T
he choices involved in buying a holiday home are a Your property details will be published on Zoopla and
combination of personal preferences – of location, Primelocation in the UK market, but also on powerful
style of property, climate and proximity to lifestyle international portals such as Wall Street Journal Real
passions. When it comes to selling your much-loved second Estate, Mansion Global, Prian, Mer et Demeures, Domaza,
home, the question arises: how many like-minded buyers Nidski, Wilhaben, Seloger, Immobiliare.it, to name a few.
are out there? How do you find someone else who will “The vendor simply uploads content and description,
appreciate your Tuscany farmhouse with artist’s studio, which we edit to maximise its ranking on search engine
your beachfront villa in Antigua, your Provencal retreat close results,” she says. “It’s a simple process, encouraging you
to prime golf courses, or your luxury condo in Phuket? to share the appeal of your property and area. A vendor
Frustrated owners of refurbished châteaux and off-the quote – such as ‘sipping wine, admiring the view to the
beaten-track idylls across France, Italy and Spain will sound of cicadas…bliss’ – draws out the unique allure.”
confirm that homes can languish for years with local A high-quality brochure is produced for each property.
WWW.PEAGREENBOATPHOTOGRAPHY.CO.UK
agents, who traditionally target the UK market. “To find a Viewings and transactions are left to the vendor, so you
buyer, you need to cast your net globally and reach out to remain in control, assisted by a list of useful advice on how
CLOCKWISE overseas buyers from the United States, China, Russia, the to show your property. Best of all, you save commission.
FROM ABOVE Middle East, India, Canada, Turkey and Europe,” says The standard agency commission to sell a million-euro
Estate with avocado Gemma Bruce, founder of The Viewing (the-viewing.com). property in Europe is € 72,000 (6% agency commission,
farm in Andalusia, With more than a decade of experience working as a plus 20% VAT), excluding legal, notary and survey fees.
Spain; chalet with broker for high-end overseas homes, Bruce’s brilliant Used exclusively, or to boost your marketing with another
views of the concept is to offer all the marketing tools of an overseas agent, a list on the-viewing.com is a savvy tactic.
Matterhorn, estate agency without charging commission. For a one- For further information, please visit the-viewing.com,
Cervinia, Italy; off fee (from £790 to £2,230 + VAT), you can select a call +44 (0) 20 7993 2722 or contact Gemma Bruce directly
Gemma Bruce package that gets your property global exposure to buyers. on gemma@the-viewing.com
Opportunities Galore
Renting remains the savvy choice for many people in a challenging property market.
So much so that Mark Tunstall, London’s Mr Super Prime, has expanded into new offices with
additional lettings specialists to deliver his trusted boutique service
T
here is attention to detail, and then there is forensic Brompton Cross. Extra staff, including an additional
perfectionism in road-testing a property to ensure property manager, will help deliver the Rolls-Royce service
it meets exceptional “turn-key” standards. In prepa- his clients seek.
ration for tenants moving into a large house in Belgravia, For landlords, for example, Mark can negotiate an
Mark Tunstall recently spent nine days systematically advantageous “bulk buy” deal with developers to save
checking every aspect of every amenity from shower stamp duty. “One client has just completed on a purchase
thermostats to wash-basin pop-ups. “Luxury properties can of brand-new properties listed for £110million for less than
have very complex heating, air-conditioning and security £70million,” he says. “And it is precisely this type of turn-
systems,” he says. “It is important we have a thorough key property that remains in vogue with tenants.”
understanding of all the details to help people move in For tenants, the standard of residential space now
without a hitch.” available to rent has never been more impressive – and
With expectations of quality higher than ever, it is no Mark’s network of key contacts opens up yet more
wonder that people flock to London’s Mr Super Prime for opportunities. “Although there have been fewer transactions
the management or rental of super-luxurious apartments in the sub-£6,000 per week category, there have been 20
and houses in the capital’s most exclusive postcodes. In per cent more above £7,000, and we are well positioned to
2018, he was involved in almost half of all deals in prime do a bit of creative engineering and put together deals for
central London above £15,000 per week, and probably all landlords and tenants alike. In some instances, our clients
of those with rents north of £20,000 per week. With an have never even considered renting out their homes. We’ve
understanding garnered from 20 years of experience in the been able to tempt them with the highest calibre tenants
lettings business – almost a generation’s worth of on-the- often prepared to pay two years of rent in advance.”
ground intelligence and in-the-air zeitgeists – he has For further information, please visit tunstallproperty.co.uk
Some of the instincts honed through both blue-sky and difficult climates.
super-luxurious “With challenges come opportunities, for both landlords
prime central and tenants,” he notes of spring 2019. “As an independent
London properties agency, working without the constant pressure of financial
available to rent targets like our more corporate contemporaries, we can
through Mark afford to give genuine, discreet and professional advice.”
Tunstall, pictured There is no one who understands better that the strength of
with colleagues the role of the trusted advisor is the cornerstone of a happy
Murdi van Hien landlord-tenant relationship. Indeed, the call for Mark’s
and Karen Asante inside knowledge has prompted a move to new offices in
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KING HENRY’S ROAD
PRIMROSE HILL NW3
£2,650,000
BEAUTIFULLY EXTENDED & INTERIOR DESIGNED, Leasehold with share of freehold
PROVIDING A STUNNING TWO BEDROOM APARTMENT Joint Sole Agents:
WITH AN IMPRESSIVE 80 FT LANDSCAPED GARDEN
32ft Open plan kitchen reception room Guest shower room
18ft Master bedroom Highest standard Gaggenau kitchen
En-suite bathroom with a steam shower Bio fuel fire places Rosy Khalastchy Peter Rosen
Walk in wardrobe High security front door rosy@beauchamp.com prosen@savills.com
Bedroom 2/study 80ft Private garden +44 (0)20 7722 9793 +44 (0)20 3428 2900
condenastjohansens.com
Layan Residences by Anantara, Phuket, Thailand
MA R R AK E CH ’S #1 LUXU RY LI FE STYLE
& R ES ID E N TI A L R ESO RT
Fairmont Residences promote a new way of living for all the family that blends home
comfort and 5-star hotel-style service, with views of a world-class golf course and the majestic
Atlas Mountains. All just 12km from the vibrant, cultural hub of Marrakech.
3-8 bed freehold villas and premium plots available now from €650,000.
Discover our early purchase incentives and inspection trip offers.
All Marketing Materials distributed or made available to any third parties shall include such disclaimers in form and substance as reasonably required by Licensor. As of the Effective Date, the disclaimers set forth
below have been approved by Licensor; provided, however, Licensor shall have the right to modify such disclaimers and provide new disclaimers from time to time upon written notice to Developer. Fairmont Royal
Palm Residences, Marrakech (the “Resort”) is not owned, developed, or sold by Fairmont or its affiliates. Domain Palm Marrakech S.A., a Moroccan company (the “Developer”), is independently owned and operated
and is solely responsible for the ownership, development, and operation of the Resort. The Developer uses the Fairmont brand name and certain Fairmont trademarks pursuant to a limited, non-exclusive, non-
transferable and non-sublicensable license from FRHI Hotels & Resorts S. à r.l. Under certain circumstances, the license may be terminated or revoked according to its terms in which case neither the Residences nor
any part of the Resort will be identified as a Fairmont branded project or have any rights to use the Fairmont trademarks. Fairmont does not make any representations or guarantees with respect to the Residences
or the Resort and is not responsible for the Developer’s marketing practices, advertising, and sales representations.
VOGUE ASKS
Who should
I be following
on Instagram?
“Following Cardi B
[right, with Scott]
is like watching TV.
She’s so authentic.
I’ve also started
following Cindy
Sherman, who
distorts selfies
with apps – it’s
like seeing an art
show every day.”
Where should I
stay in New York?
“I just stayed at The
Bowery [above] and
it was so cosy and
comfortable. It’s also
right in the middle of
town, next to all my
favourite vegetarian
restaurants.”
How can I be
braver with
fashion? “I think
lipstick changes
a look – it’s an
instant punch.”
Retro Matte
Lipstick in Ruby
Woo, £18, Mac
Cosmetics