Академический Документы
Профессиональный Документы
Культура Документы
UNDERWRITERS – 6
RISK MANAGEMENT OF
TEXTILE MILLS
HDFC ERGO GENERAL INSURANCE CO LTD
TEXTILE MILLS
PROCESSES OF TEXTILE MANUFACTURING
Textile manufacturing begins with the production or harvesting of raw fiber. Fiber used
in textiles can be harvested from natural sources (e.g. wool, cotton) or manufactured
from regenerative cellulose materials (e.g. rayon, acetate), or it can be entirely
synthetic (e.g. polyester, nylon). After the raw natural or manufactured fibers are
shipped from the farm or the chemical plant, they pass through four main stages of
processing :
Yarn production
Fabric production
Wet process
Garment Manufacturing
Yarn fabrication is the process, which converts raw fiber into yarn or thread. The
fibers are prepared and then drawn out and twisted to form the yarn, which is then
wound onto a bobbin or cone. The yarn fabrication is entirely dry, although some
yarns maybe dyed and finished as a final customer product.r
Natural Fibers
Natural fiber must be opened, blended, carded and/or combed, and drafted
before spinning. The main steps for processing wool and cotton are illustrated
in figure above. Although equipment used for the production of cotton is
designed somewhat differently from that used for wool, the machinery operates in
essentially the same fashion.
Opening/Blending
Cleaning
Carding
Combing
Drawing
The main function of the roving is to attenuate the sliver. In this process draw
frame sliver is fed to the drafting arrangement, which attenuate the sliver with a
draft of between 5-20. The delivered strand is too thin to hold, which is
strengthened by imparting twist immediately at the exit form the drafting
arrangement. The twisted (rove) is finally wound on the bobbin, so that it is easy to
transport to next process, stored and crelled on ring frame.
Spinning Roving
Spinning
In this process rove is fed to drafting arrangement, which further attenuate to spin
into final yarn. The delivered stand of fine fiber from the drafting arrangement, is
strengthened by inserting twist in it. This twist is generated by the spindle, which
rotate at a higher speed. Each revolution of spindle import one turn of twist to the
strand. Finally the yarn (twisted fiber strand) is wound on bobbin mounted on
spindle with the help of traveler.
Manmade fibers
Manmade fibers are often shipped as staple (similar
in length to natural fibers), which is ready for spinning,
or as filament yarn, which may be used directly or
following further shaping or texturising. Both synthetic
and cellulose are manufactured by processes that
simulate or resemble the manufacture of silk (i.e.,
forcing a liquid through a small opening where the
l i q u i d solidifies to form a continuous filament). Three
main methods of fiber manufacture are described
below:
Wet spinning
Dry spinning
Dry spinning uses a solvent that evaporates in air. The dissolved polymer is
extruded through the spinnerete into a chamber of heated air or gas; the solvent is
generally recovered for reuse. Acrylic is produced by dissolving the polymer in
dimethyl formamide before dry spinning. Other fibers formed by dry spinning
include acetate, triacetate, spandex, and aramid.
Melt spinning
Some polymeric fibers are spun by melting the polymer to a liquid state. The liquid
is forced through the spinner opening under pressure and cooled by a jet of air to
form the filament. Melt spinning requires no chemical reactions and no solvent
recovery system.
FABRIC PRODUCTION
Fabric production, the second step, involves weaving, knitting, tufting and non-
woven. Tufting and non-woven are used in the fabric manufacturing but not as
widely as weaving and knitting.
Weaving
Knitting
Tufting
Tufting is the process of inserting additional yarns into fabric to create a pile fabric. The
substrate fabric can range from a thin backing to heavy burlap-type material and may
be woven, knitted, or web. In modern tufting machines, a set of hollow needles
carries the yarn from a series of spools held in a creel and inserts the yarn through the
substrate cloth. Patterns may be formed by varying the height of the tuft loops. Tufting
is used for apparel fabrics, upholstery, and blankets, although most tufting machines
are used for carpeting. Well over 90 percent of broadloom carpeting is made by tufting.
Non-woven
Non-woven fabrics are comparatively new in the range of fabrics manufactured. Non-
woven fabric has a strong appeal to both the manufacturer and the public for generally;
it can be produced rapidly and cheaply and gives consumer satisfaction. Non-woven is
described as a fiber products arranged in parallel, cross or randomly distributed, bonded
either by mechanical means or by adhesive or thermoplastic fibers under the influence
of heat and pressure. For the production of non-woven fabrics, initially a mixture of
different type of fibers is made. One of the fibers which is evenly distributed within the
mixture is a special type of fiber which can, at any suitable stage of processing, be
brought into a tacky condition, enabling it to play the role of an adhesive or bonding
substance. Then the fiber mixture is brought into the form of a comparatively thick layer
or web of width corresponding to the desired width of the fabric, which will ultimately be
formed. In the final stage, the fiber layer is hot pressed, so that the special fibers within
it partially melt and become securely bonded together.When the pressure is removed,
the non-woven fabric is formed in which the fibers are simply held together by the
bonding fibers.
The fabric produced from the weaving or knitting is in rough condition and is often
termed 'grey' fabric. The material is rough to the touch and contains impurities, which
are either natural in the fibers or added to facilitate the process of fabric manufacture.
Fabric processing (wet processing) is done to improve the appearance and
serviceability of the fabric in many ways. The main operations carried out in this step
include pre-treatment, dyeing, printing and finishing as given below in the process
charts:
As is evident from the description of the textile manufacturing process, the first two
stages of manufacturing, that is, yarn manufacture and fabric preparation, involve
mainly dry operations, which consume very little water and chemicals. The third
stage of manufacturing, that is, wet processing, involves wet operations. The quantum
of waste generated is relatively high in this stage.
Pre-treatment
The pre-treatment process is carried out to prepare the textile material for subsequent
processing, which includes dyeing, printing and finishing. The main operations include:
Desizing
In this process, the sizing ingredients are removed from the grey fabric by dissolving
them. Desizing, with acid or enzymes etc., then removes size from the fabric, so that
chemical penetration of the fabric in later stages is not inhibited.
Scouring
The scouring process is carried out to remove impurities such as wax, fatty acids, oils,
etc, present in the fabric. Scouring is carried out in alkaline conditions (with sodium
hydroxide) under high pressure and temperature (above 100oC).
Bleaching
Mercerizing
Mercerizing increases the tensile strength, luster and dye uptake of the cotton fabric or
yarn. In this process, the cotton yarn or fabric is treated with cold sodium hydroxide
solution. This causes swelling of the fiber, which results in an increase in the dye
intake. Excess sodium hydroxide is normally recovered for reuse in either the scouring
or other mercerization stages.
Dyeing
Batch technique:
The liquor and the textile are placed together in a vessel and the required amount of
dye is added.
Continuous technique:
The dye is dissolved or dispersed in the liquor. A definite quantity of dye liquor is
locally applied to the textile.
The major classes of dyestuffs used in the textile industry are as follows:
• Acid Dyes: Mainly used on wool, silk and polyamide fibers. They give very
bright colors, whose fastness ranges from very poor (allowing colors to run) to very
good.
• Reactive Dyes: This group produces a range of bright shades, and commonly
used for cellulose textiles.
• Sulphur Dyes: Most commonly used for dyeing cotton, rayon and cotton-
synthetic blends and produce strong, deep colors in the final fabric.
• Vat Dyes: These cover an almost full range of shades and are particularly
important in the dyeing of cellulose fibers (such as cotton).
• Azoic Dyes: Produce deep shades of blue, violet, yellow, orange and reddish.
Printing
Printing is a process by which colored patterns are produced on the fabric. Unlike
dyeing, it is usually only carried out on prepared fabric where it is applied to specific
areas to achieve a planned design. The color is applied to the fabric and then treated
with steam, heat or chemicals to fix the color on the fabric. The most commonly used
printing techniques are:
• Wet printing: Uses reactive dyes for cotton and generally has a softer feel
than pigment printed fabrics.
• Discharge printing: Creates patterns by first applying color to the fabric and
then removing selected areas.
Final washing of the fabric is carried out to remove excess paste and leave a uniform
color.
Finishing
This stage includes the final operations necessary for making the textile presentable
and attractive. It imparts the final aesthetic, chemical and mechanical properties to the
fabric as per the end use requirements. The finishing operations include:
Drying
Drying removes the moisture from the fabric using the drying machine.
This is one of the most important finishing operations. The fabric, which is in a
distorted condition, is brought to the required dimensions of width and length.
Calendering
A kind of glossy skin is formed on the fabric surface during calendering. The damp
fabric is pressed hard against a hot, polished metal surface until it dries.
Softening
After calendering, the fabric becomes a little stiff. Breaking down this stiffness is called
softening. The fabric is led through the softening machine so that it touches the
studded rollers lightly and drags them around. In this way, the surface of the fabric is
lightly disturbed making it much softer.
Apart from the above mentioned finishing operations many other special properties
depending upon requirements such as protection from rain, wind, cold, sunlight, fire
resistance, etc., are provided. The properties are done by passing the fabric through a
trough of chemicals (for providing special finishes) followed by drying.
Depending upon the type of fabric to be processed and the final product, any or all of
the above processing operations can be carried out. Each of these operations
involves consumption of huge quantities of water and chemicals.
Conditions
Process
Size formulation depends on the type of
yarn. Size concentration is governed by the
Sizing yarn count (8-15%). Temperature ranges
from 80- 90 °C. Drying at 100-130 °C.
Singeing Direct or indirect flames are used to remove
fuzzy fibers, followed by quenching.
Desize formulation depends on the nature
of the sizing agents, i.e. enzymatic or
oxidative treatments are used for starch
sized fabrics, whilst CMC, CMS or acrylate
Desizing sizes can be removed by hot water (80-90
°C). PVA can be removed by using hot
water in the presence or absence of
peroxygens.
The finished cloths are fabricated into a variety of apparel and household industrial
products. The simpler of these products, such as bags, sheets, towels, blanket, and
draperies often produced by the textile mills themselves, but apparel or more complex
house-wares are usually fabricated by cutting trades.
Yarn dyeing and finishing are different from woven fabric finishing because there is no
sizing and desizing operation. They are different from knit fabric finishing because of
their mercerising operation and water use. The main processes involved are
cleaning, scouring, bleaching, mercerizing, dyeing and special finishing. Sewing
thread, textile and carpet yarn are typical product in this category. Several techniques
are available for processing raw yarn into the finished product. The most common
process is probably package dyeing, but other processes, such as space dyeing, are
widely used. In package dyeing, yarn wound on perforated tubes is placed in a large
vessel, which is sealed. The dye solution, at an appropriate temperature, is circulated
through the yarn.
The dyed yarn is washed, rinsed and dried. Finally, the yarn is unraveled and then
wound on cons for the subsequent use by other mills.
CARPET FABRICATION
Carpet mills use mostly manmade fibers (synthetic fibers: nylon, acrylic and polyester),
but some wool and cotton is also processed. This category is characterized by any or
all of the following operational units: bleaching, scouring, carbonizing, dyeing, printing
resin treatment, water proofing, flam proofing, soil repellency, backing with
foamed and unfoamed latex or jute. Carpet backing without other carpet
manufacturing operation may be included in the dry processing mill category. Some
carpet is backed with latex in a separate plant, other carpet mills do latexing in the
same plant with the finishing.
Tufted carpet consist of face yarn that is looped through a woven mat backing (mostly
polypropylene some jute) dyed or printed and then backed with either latex foam or
coated with latex and a burlap-type woven fabric backing but over latex.
The dominant face yarn is nylon, followed by acrylic and polyester. The latter two
groups taken together are about equal to nylon. Since dyeing of these fibers in carpet
differs little from dyeing fabric, the dyeing description for these fibers is similar to the
one described in. The yarn is tufted into woven or non-woven polypropylene or jute
primary backing in a dry operation. Following this, the tufted carpet can be either
printed or dyed. If printed, a semi continuous screen printing operation is performed,
followed by wash and rinse in the same machine. If dyed, the most common method
is beck dyeing, in manner quite similar to that described in previous categories for yarn
and goods. After it is dyed the carpet is dried in a tunnel drier. The carpet is then ready
for application of adhesive and secondary backing.
Machinery
Ginning & Cleaning Section, Spinning Section, Weaving Section, Knitting
Section,Fabrication Section, Finishing Section the detailed processes of which
are explained above.
Storage Godowns for Raw Material and Finished Products.
Electrical Distribution Assembly & Panels.
DCS Control Panels.
The electrical distribution control panels and DCS control panels should be
housed in a noncombustible construction.
All the structural elements of the building and all installations should be fire-
proofed up to a height of 0.5 m. Some of the fire-proof bricks used in refractory
linings like dolomite are very delicate. If they are stored improperly, they may
absorb moisture from the atmosphere and disintegrate in a matter of days.
Particular attention must therefore be given to protecting them during storage.
Long periods of storage on construction sites should be avoided. Fire clay bricks
are less of a problem. Refractory linings must be dried carefully in accordance
with a set schedule.
Plastic tubs and trays have become common and need appropriate protection.
Enclosed production equipment has resulted in the need for internal protection
systems in many situations.
Compressors are essential to continued operation of air jet looms; cooling towers
are needed to maintain temperature and humidity within operating limits.
Make floors water resistant above valuable storage or sensitive high value
equipment.
c) If a keyed abort switch is used for maintenance have the key under the
control of either the department head or maintenance personnel.
d) Have replacement agent available on site to enable protection to be
restored immediately.
Insurance Aspects
The first thing is to determine whether the process is a conventional one or whether it is
still a form of prototype. The erection of this type of plant involves large scale
construction sites with high sums insured. As with all long-term projects, a construction
time schedule should be obtained for the purpose of risk assessment.
The physical weight of the furnaces, reactors and other machines is high, therefore
quality of the subsoil and the type of foundations used should be taken into
consideration. A subsoil report should be obtained.
Danger of flooding always exists at construction sites as the drainage system comes at a
later stage. The windstorm risk is also high on account of the many lifting operations
using heavy cranes.
Machinery Insurance
The first step is to find out whether the process is a conventional one or a prototype. A
more general list of plants is more suitable. The deductible should not be too low in this
case.
Refractory linings have a very limited service life and must be replaced regularly,
therefore depreciation should be applied adequately or if possible there should be a
predefined schedule for the same mentioned in the policy.
The usual maintenance and depreciation endorsements for electric motors, transformers
are to be applied. Risk inspections are recommended.
Based on the type of processes involved, spare machines are often on stand – by and
there is usually a stock of spare parts is maintained the same reason. It is common to
have a relatively large maintenance and inspection department. In the event of a
breakdown in operations, it is often possible to purchase semi-finished products from
other manufacturers. These factors are important in rating the risk.