How-To: NTRAK Module Frame

July 13, 2015

By Jim Davis
A quality frame for a module, either a standard four foot NTRAK module or a one foot
T-TRAK module can be built in a relatively short time, compared to the effort involved
in getting the track and scenery “show ready”. Experience has shown that a weak frame
makes a module difficult to set up, easily damaged, and hard to maintain. Several
NVNTRAK club modules had to be retired when the frame became so weak it could not
support the legs, even though the track and scenery were still serviceable.
NVNTRAK used the construction of a new club module, at our monthly Back Shops, as
a training exercise for club members. A proven design was selected that has been used
on several modules over the last 10 years. Some modules with this frame design have
been in more than 100 shows and are still in good shape.
Module Design Considerations: There is no perfect module, only compromises to
achieve the best design for a particular circumstance.
 Module weight is one of the challenges most of us worry about. A module made
of ¾ inch plywood will be very rugged, but will be very heavy. Too thin and the
module gets flimsy. The top, which is 8 square feet, has the greatest ability to
influence weight. For example, using the recommended ½ inch plywood top adds
12.5 pounds to the module while using luan adds only 4.5 pounds.
 Leg Support: Module legs are 39 inches long with only 3.5 inches on the module
for leg support. The design problem for both wood and metal legs is leverage and
force. A force of 10 pounds at the bottom of a leg will result in 100 pounds of
force in the support structure. The frame needs to be able to take this stress.
 Durability: How will the module stand up over time? For example, our
experience indicates that “open frame construction”, where insulating foam is
installed directly to the frame without underlying support, is not durable. The
foam insulation will sag over time and is easily damaged. A layer of foam on top
of a module has edges that are easily damaged if not protected.
 Materials: The design needs to be consistent with the materials you choose.
Consider the case where dimensional pine is to be used for the frame. The pine
you buy will be relatively green and subject to warping as it dries. The design
must compensate for this tendency.
Dos and Don’ts: Here are some things to consider.
 Do Not use dry wall screws in module construction. Wood screws, which require
a pilot hole, are designed to pull the pieces tightly together, improving alignment
and strength of glued joints.
 Do use the top quality lumber available if you are using 1 x 4 pine for the sides.
Every knot represents a discontinuity that invites the wood to warp. Top quality
pine does not split as easily as lower grades.
 Do not cut the 4 by 8 foot sheet of plywood for the top into four equal pieces. The
saw cut results in pieces that are 23 7/8 by 47 7/8. There is more discussion of
this later.
Frame: Construction started with two 8 foot lengths of 1 by 4 premium grade pine (3 ½
by ¾ actual). A number of boards were examined at the hardware store to find ones with
a straight edge and minimum bow. A little bow can be handled, but the edge must be
straight so the top of the module will be flat.
1. A 48 inch side, a 22 ½ inch end and a 22 ½ inch cross brace were
cut from each board. It is important that all cuts be square and
that the two side pieces are the same length. The four short
pieces also need to be the same length.
2. Three one inch holes, to be used for electrical wiring, were drilled
in the front edge of the cross braces.
3. The cross braces were then trimmed to 1 ½ inches thick in the
middle, as shown in the picture, to provide an area for module leg
storage and to reduce weight.
4. The completed module will have one inch of foam added on top.
To protect the edge of the foam, a strip of plywood will be added
on the front and two ends. At this point in construction, a router
was used to cut a groove along the top edge of the front and the
two ends. The groove is 7/8 inches wide and the depth of the
piece of plywood to be used, in this case 3/16 of an inch. The sky
board will protect the back.
Note: Poplar has been used for the ends of some modules. It is a fairly light
hardwood that will stand up to clamping well, but adds a little to the overall weight.
Good quality one-half inch plywood can also be used, but requires the right tools to
make straight cuts and requires more precision in screwing the pieces together.
5. The cross braces are located 16
inches from each end of the
module. As seen in some of the
later pictures, the location of each
end and cross brace was marked
on the sides before assembly.
This allowed easy alignment and
helps to get screws in the right
place.
6. Significant attention was placed on
insuring 90 degree angles at the corners
during assembly. A set of 24 inch clamps
were a help in holding the pieces together.
As shown, a Carpenters Square clamped in
one corner ensured that the entire frame
was square.
7. The sides to the ends were glued and
screwed together using two 1 ½ inch #8
wood screws for each joint. A pilot hole is
essential to keep from splitting the wood. Before screwing the end was also
checked to make sure it was vertical. The 24 inch clamp keeps the joint from
 slipping while it is being screwed together. The screw heads also need to be fully
countersunk.
Note: #6 wood screws can be used, but a power tool will twist the head off easily, so
a lot more care is required.
8. The two cross braces were installed next, also using two 1 ½ inch #8 wood screws
on each side. The cross braces need to be square and the top edge level with the
top of the side.
Here is the frame ready for installation of the
top. At this point it is not very rigid and can
easily be twisted out of alignment.

Top: The top, or deck, was made using 3/16 luan or “underlay” plywood.
This type of plywood is used under soft flooring material, such as
linoleum, and does not have any “inclusions” (i.e. knot holes). It is made
with waterproof glue and is also relatively light.
1. The first problem was cutting the 4 foot by 8 foot sheet. If the
sheet is cut into four equal pieces the dimensions will be 23 7/8 by
47 7/8 because of the saw cut. This would leave an annoying gap
at the ends when installed on the frame.
2. The top also needs to have one side and one end that are straight
and perpendicular to each other. This can be achieved by cutting
across the sheet as shown. If the hardware store makes the cuts,
the additional ½ inch allows for slight
variation in the cut and the rough edge the
power saw usually leaves.
3. The top surface was first marked to show
the frame layout to facilitate screwing the
top down. The corner that has the two
straight edges and an exact 90 degree
angle was used as a starting point to help
ensure that the module will be fully
square.
4. Wood glue was spread on top of the frame and the square corner was attached
using two #6 by ¾ wood screws as shown.
5. Next the far corner of the front was
aligned and attached with a #6 by ¾”
wood screw.
6. The end of the module at the square
corner is checked to make sure the frame
is square and screwed down with screws
at about a 6 inch spacing.
 7. The front of the frame on the club module was bowed out about 1/8 inch and had
to be pushed back into place and held while the front was screwed down.
8. Wood screws were then added
to the back, cross braces and
the other end of the module.
9. These steps need to be
completed relatively quickly
so adjustments can be made
before the glue sets.
10. After the glue dried any
screws that were not fully
countersunk needed to be
removed, the hole drilled deeper and the screw reinstalled. This is particularly
important on the ends of the module that will mate with the next module.
11. The top’s overhang was trimmed flush with the base using a router.
Note: It may seem that too much attention has been put on how to install the top. The
frame is relatively weak until the top is installed. It then becomes a very strong and
stable unit. The top is used to ensure that the frame is square and to remove any bow in
the sides, since almost all pine boards will have some bow.
Leg Supports: The next step was to add the leg supports to the module. For the club
module ¾ inch Electric Metal Tube (EMT) legs are to be used. A separate how-to article
discusses leg construction.
1. The four leg blocks were glued and
clamped in place and attached with four
1 ½ inch #8 wood screws. Note that a
piece of framing material was used to
protect the corner during clamping.
2. Care was required to make sure the
wood screws are far enough out to miss
the leg insert.
Note: The leg blocks also significantly increase
the strength of the corner joint allowing it to
handle the stress the legs will put on the
module.
Foam Top: For the club module one inch of
foam was added, increasing the complexity of
the project.
1. A 1 ¾ inch strip of plywood was added
to the front and to one end of the
module, held in place with #6 by ¾”
screws. The end piece was glued in
place. The front will be glued later
when the scenery is completed.
2. Foam board comes in 8 foot lengths and is 24 inches wide. There are several
varieties and some are not quite 24 inches, so they need to be measured. Blue or
pink extruded foam works, but white foam board is not acceptable. Some foam
board, blue in particular, has a layer of plastic on the surface that needs to be
removed.
3. A 48 inch length of foam was cut. The cut needs to be made carefully if the other
piece is to be used on a second module.
4. Using the two edges as a guide, the foam was glued down using foam board glue,
PL 300 in this case.
5. The foam was weighted and let dry for 24 hours.
6. The foam was trimmed at the second end and back and the second end glued and
screwed in place.
7. The addition of the foam layer results in the module
exceeding the 4 ½ inch requirement for the clamping
area, a requirement that is often missed. Two 1 inch
by 4 inch notches were cut in the ends as shown.

Painting: Before any hardware was added the underside of the module was painted
with a flat latex paint. Sealing the wood reduces the risk of damage if the module
ever gets wet and makes it
easier to see if you have to
work under the module to fix
a problem at a show.
Once dry, the track plan was
marked on the underside of
the module. This will help
when wiring the module and
later with any
troubleshooting.