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Wet Shave Like A Professional – 3rd Edition 2018 – Copyright Real Men Real Style
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 3rd Edition 2018 – Copyright Real Men Real Style
Wet Shave Like A Professional
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 3rd Edition 2018 – Copyright Real Men Real Style
Contents
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 3rd Edition 2018 – Copyright Real Men Real Style
Step 1: Set Your Space Up
Step 2: Wet Your Beard
Step 3: Create Your Lather
Step 4: Apply the Lather
Step 5: Shave
Step 6: Rinse
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 3rd Edition 2018 – Copyright Real Men Real Style
One Week to A Wet Shave
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 3rd Edition 2018 – Copyright Real Men Real Style
One Week to a Wet Shave
In a heartening trend, men of all ages seem to be realizing that the
multi-bladed cartridge razor is an overpriced gimmick.
The same thing our fathers and our grandfathers did, before
disposable razor cartridges became widespread: the wet shave.
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 3rd Edition 2018 – Copyright Real Men Real Style
A Step-by-Step Guide to Wet Shaving
"Wet shave" is a cultural shorthand for a broad idea: shaving your
face with a single-bladed metal razor, generally with cake soap or
plain water instead of canned foam or gel.
There's quite a purist culture of wet shavers out there, and it can
intimidate a man who's used canned foam and a cartridge razor all
his adult life.
But these basic steps will get any guy shaving comfortably, without
having to devote his whole life to the skill.
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 3rd Edition 2018 – Copyright Real Men Real Style
D
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 3rd Edition 2018 – Copyright Real Men Real Style
Day 1: Get Educated
If you're reading this, you
probably already know the
basics of wet shaving, or have
at least some notion that
you'd like to change from
cartridge razors.
The case for cartridge razors is usually about convenience and shave
quality. If you believe the manufacturers, a cartridge with multiple
blades shaves closer and smoother than a single blade, and the
process is quicker and easier.
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 3rd Edition 2018 – Copyright Real Men Real Style
The convenience part is probably true. There's no denying that
spritzing on some gel or foam and running a cartridge razor over
your face a couple times is probably at least a little quicker than a
wet shave with a safety razor.
But the shave quality is pure hype -- you can get yourself baby-
smooth with a basic single-bladed razor, and you can get a terrible,
patchy shave with lots of painful nicks using a cartridge razor.
Your technique and the frequency with which you change your
blades have a lot more to do with your shave than the number of
blades you're using. And that brings us to the biggest problem with
cartridge razors -- those little bundles of extra blades are expensive.
For good shaves, you want to be changing your blades every week or
so. Maybe stretch it to two weeks if you don't shave every day, or if
you've got high-quality blades, but in general -- every week. Less
than that at the blade gets dulled and nicked, and those rough spots
will miss hairs (leaving stubble) and catch on your skin (leaving
cuts).
Single blades for safety razors cost maybe a buck a piece for the
classy brands; less if you go bulk. Cartridges, on the other hand, start
about around $20 for a pack of four or six, and go upwards from
there.
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 3rd Edition 2018 – Copyright Real Men Real Style
And that -- along with the general cheapness of the product and the
reliance on chemical gels and "soothing" strips -- is the big problem
with cartridge razors.
Not too much. A traditional wet shave requires four basic things:
In a pinch, you can even do without the soap and brush (more on
that later).
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 3rd Edition 2018 – Copyright Real Men Real Style
Further Reading
You don't need to know much more than that, but if you want to get
into the whole wet shaving culture thing, it's got a strong online
presence that you can check out.
Find sites you like and browse a bit, but don't get caught up trying to
remember every detail from every article you come across. Just
know what resources are out there, so that you can come back to
them if you have questions.
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 3rd Edition 2018 – Copyright Real Men Real Style
Day 2: Select & Purchase Your Razor
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 3rd Edition 2018 – Copyright Real Men Real Style
Day 2: Select & Purchase Your Razor
A whole day just to buy a razor?!
If you've done a lot of reading and you already know exactly what
brand and model you want, good for you -- you're ahead of the
game, here.
Go ahead and order your razor. If you're using a site like Amazon,
you can probably even have the shipping expedited to truly make
this a one-day task.
(Finding a good store in town that sells razors can also make it a
one-day purchase -- as convenient as the internet is, don't forget
that brick-and-mortar is often quicker, and keeps the money local!)
But if you don't know the exact razor you want, you're going to need
a couple hours and some information to figure it out.
There are a couple major features that come in varying styles, and
you want the one that's right for you.
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 3rd Edition 2018 – Copyright Real Men Real Style
Razor Types: Double-Edged, Single Edged,
and Straight
Virtually all of the razors we talk
about here are going to be single-
bladed, double-edged safety razor.
Straight razors, on the other hand, are still available many places.
These are not safety razors, and they require a different set of
equipment to maintain and use properly! A straight razor is a fixed
blade permanently attached to a handle, which is not replaced --
instead, it is sharpened and re-sharpened after use.
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 3rd Edition 2018 – Copyright Real Men Real Style
Gap Size and Adjustable vs. Set Gaps
The "gap" of a safety razor is the amount of blade exposed beyond
the cap-piece or safety bar (more on that in a minute).
The more blade you have exposed, the "rougher" the shave. You
have to work more carefully when the full width of the sharpened
section is exposed than when you're just working with the very edge
of the blade.
The comb or open comb is a row of small teeth on either side of the
head. The gaps in between the teeth help funnel lathered hairs into
small clusters for the razor to rim.
A safety bar razor works the opposite way -- it has a small, flat bar
that sits below the blade. The bar moves along the skin and pushes
hairs into the blade, while separating the skin slightly from the
cutting edge.
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 3rd Edition 2018 – Copyright Real Men Real Style
Both are effective. The open comb design can provide a slightly
closer shave, but is generally considered harsher on the skin. That
said, the gap size (see the previous subsection) is a major factor
here, so a safety razor with a large gap may shave closer and more
harshly than a comb razor with a small gap.
Other Issues
There are a few other minor concerns when selecting your razor.
The actual raw material is a good one to keep in mind -- you want a
metal handle and head if at all possible. Stainless steel gives the
razor enough weight that you don't have to apply any pressure
yourself when you're shaving, and keeps the razor from rusting in
the humid air of a bathroom as well.
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 3rd Edition 2018 – Copyright Real Men Real Style
There's no real advantage to one over the other (although one-piece
safety razors have more moving parts that can wear out or break,
and as a result aren't made much anymore -- they were sort of the
hot new gimmick just before cartridge razors hit the scene).
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 3rd Edition 2018 – Copyright Real Men Real Style
Razor Blades
When you buy your new razor, you'll also need to grab some blades
for it. Luckily, the blades are cheap and easy to find. That was one of
the big reasons to make the switch, remember?
Stainless steel is your basic material here. Some will come "plated"
with rust- or wear-resistant metals like titanium and platinum, but
the coating in question is usually so thin that you won't notice much
practical difference.
Plan on changing blades about once every week or two weeks. You
can do it more often than that if you're really obsessive, or stretch it
a little longer if you're not a daily shaver, but between one and two
weeks per blade is the ballpark.
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 3rd Edition 2018 – Copyright Real Men Real Style
Day 3: Pick Your Soaps and Creams
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 3rd Edition 2018 – Copyright Real Men Real Style
Day 3: Pick Your Soaps and Creams
Now we get to the "wet" part of the wet
shave.
Your basic equipment here is soap and a brush. Here are a few more
specifics to break it all down for you:
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 3rd Edition 2018 – Copyright Real Men Real Style
A good brush needs to be soft (for your skin's sake) and capable of
holding water (to keep the lather smooth). The best (and most
expensive) are made from badger hair, with boar's hair or a
badger/boar mix as a cheaper and more common alternative.
Synthetic bristles are usually made from nylon, and are the cheapest
option available.
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 3rd Edition 2018 – Copyright Real Men Real Style
Of the two, creams are faster to use, and easier on the wrists --
there's no "whisking" to build a lather -- but they tend to be stickier
and oilier, and often contain synthetic chemicals that can irritate
sensitive skins.
They're also cheaper -- a $5 soap cake could last you the better part
of a year, while you're likely to go through a $20 tin of shaving
cream in a month or two.
It may take a couple tries to find something that gives you the lather
you like. Start with a simple soap cake and go from there. If you have
sensitive skin, a glycerin soap may be easier on it, and you'll want to
avoid anything with chemical additives.
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 3rd Edition 2018 – Copyright Real Men Real Style
Shaving Mugs
There are countless shaving mugs, bowls, and scuttles out there, and
the difference between them is mostly aesthetic. As long as you've
got something large enough to contain the soap cake and an inch or
two of lather spread up the sides, you're in good shape.
An old coffee mug will do if you want to save some money. If you
buy something shaving-specific, expect to pay anywhere from $20
on up to $100 or more, depending on the materials.
It's up to you whether you want to use these or not. The lotions and
aftershave make for a slightly more luxurious experience, which
some men like, but you can get by just fine without them unless your
skin is particularly sensitive.
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 3rd Edition 2018 – Copyright Real Men Real Style
Day 4: Your First Wet Shave
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 3rd Edition 2018 – Copyright Real Men Real Style
Day 4: Your First Wet Shave
By this point you should know more about shaving products than
you ever expected to.
We're going to start with the most common and popular method:
warm skin and warm water. This is how most people prefer to
shave.
There are other methods, and they have their die-hard advocates!
But start with this one, and then experiment with variations to see
what you like.
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 3rd Edition 2018 – Copyright Real Men Real Style
Step 1: Set Your Space Up
Go ahead and carve out a permanent space for your shaving gear in
the bathroom. Butt up against other toiletries' territory as much as
you need to.
You'll want the mug with the soap in it on the sink, or somewhere
else easily accessible. The less chance of knocking it off an edge the
better, especially if you're using a porcelain mug.
You'll also need either a sink you can plug or a small basin of water
to rinse your razor. A running tap will do in a pinch, as will wiping it
on a cloth, but the easiest and best way to clean the razor as you go
is to swirl it in some standing water.
Lay everything out for your shave ahead of time: the razor, the mug
with soap in it, the brush, and any lotions or topical treatments you
plan to apply before or after the shave.
If you don't have the time to shower before your shave, or you
prefer not to, a cloth soaked in warm water can be laid over the
beard and left there for three or four minutes to soften the hairs.
A pre-shave lotion can also help prep your beard for a shave if you
don't have warm water available.
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 3rd Edition 2018 – Copyright Real Men Real Style
Step 3: Create Your Lather
If you're using a tinned shaving cream or an aerosol can, this step is
already done.
Once you've got the brush wet, lay the tips of the bristles against the
top of the soap cake and start whisking it around in little circles.
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 3rd Edition 2018 – Copyright Real Men Real Style
A good lather will be a thick, smooth foam. There should be plenty of
air and water in there (sort of like beaten eggs), not just soap. If it's
sticky to the touch, or thick and smeary like toothpaste, add more
water. If it's runny and drips off the brush, dump a little water out,
shake the brush off, and beat the lather some more.
Give a quick shake to get rid of any big clumps, and, using the tip of
the brush, start to dab the lather onto your beard.
The goal here is to coat your hairs without mashing them down
against the skin, and without piling on so much lather that it hides
everything completely.
You'll ideally end up with a nice, even coat of lather, with the tips of
the hairs visible through it. If it takes a couple tries to get it right,
don't be afraid to wash everything off with a wet washcloth and
start over.
Step 5: Shave
The moment of truth -- pick up your razor and go to.
Shaving with a good lather should be smooth and easy. Place the
razor at the top of the space you want to shave and move it gently
downward. Resist the temptation to press it against your skin! If the
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 3rd Edition 2018 – Copyright Real Men Real Style
blade is sharp, the weight of the head should be enough to shear
through your hairs without you applying pressure.
Use the most care underneath the chin, down near the Adam's apple.
This is the most fragile part of the neck, and the part where most
shavers nick themselves. Treat your razor with respect -- it's a heavy
piece of metal with an incredibly sharp edge!
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 3rd Edition 2018 – Copyright Real Men Real Style
Step 6: Rinse
Once you've shaved to your satisfaction, rinse your face with clean,
cold water (not with the water you've been rinsing your razor in).
Cold (or at least cool) water will help tighten the skin up and close
the pores, which helps prevent infections and razor burn. Make sure
you've washed off all the lather and stray hairs, as those are the
most likely things to cause irritation if they stay on the skin.
Use an alum block or styptic stick to dab any cuts, if you were
unfortunate enough to acquire them, and pat everything dry with a
soft cloth.
That's all there is to it -- you're done with your first wet shave.
Hopefully it didn't go too badly!
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 3rd Edition 2018 – Copyright Real Men Real Style
Day 5 (and Onward):
Vary Your Shaving Technique
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 3rd Edition 2018 – Copyright Real Men Real Style
Day 5 (and Onward): Vary Your
Shaving Technique
At this point you're familiar
with the default wet shave
technique: soften the skin and
beard, lather up, shave, rinse,
and go.
Here are some changes you can make to the basic routine:
Some men prefer to splash cold water on their face before lathering
up, or even to avoid using any water on the hair at all before
applying the lather. It all depends on the natural hardness of their
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 3rd Edition 2018 – Copyright Real Men Real Style
hairs -- if yours are already soft and silky, getting them warm and
wet may make them lie too flat to trim easily.
If you're having trouble with the razor gliding over hairs and leaving
them uncut, try applying a cool lather directly to the dry hairs. If
that's too harsh, soak them with cold water first.
Find the technique that gets a good shave, but doesn't have your
skin feeling tugged at when the razor passes through the hairs.
There's no real way to tell what works best for you except trial and
error.
Look around for some trial-sized lotions and aftershaves, and give
them a try. If you find something you really like, stick with it.
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 3rd Edition 2018 – Copyright Real Men Real Style
Try varying amounts and varying thicknesses to see what works
best for you. The upside of all that practice? You'll get very good at
controlling the consistency of your lather very quickly.
Look to change some of the factors that affect how the blade moves
across your skin: the weight of the head, the blade gap, and the style
of comb or safety bar used. It's worth the investment to get
something that works right for you.
Here are 7 tips to the best shave of your life. Click here to watch.
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 3rd Edition 2018 – Copyright Real Men Real Style
One Week to A Wet Shave: Conclusion
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 3rd Edition 2018 – Copyright Real Men Real Style
One Week to a Wet Shave: Conclusion
If you've followed the guide all the way through to this conclusion,
you should be a pro wet shaver!
Once you've got the right tools, getting a good shave every day is just
a matter of whipping your lather up and treating your face with
care. Pretty soon it'll be almost as fast as using cartridges and
canned foam -- and a whole lot better for your skin and your wallet.
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 3rd Edition 2018 – Copyright Real Men Real Style
Shave Maps – Direction of Hair Growth and
Blade Route
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 3rd Edition 2018 – Copyright Real Men Real Style
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 3rd Edition 2018 – Copyright Real Men Real Style
Check out my Podcasts and my App:
Wet Shave Like A Professional – 3rd Edition 2018 – Copyright Real Men Real Style