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Zagreb
Spring 2016
TheMay TheSava
River Forts Be
Withthat
Rapids Youhave
Discover the history
reached generations
of Šibenik’s fortresses
Clubbing Zagreb
History
Movin’ In Spades
& groovin’ all
Ten must-see
night long
archeological sites
What Springs In
Spring?
Blossoming concerts
and festivals
E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S
Nightlife 38
Let the music take you higher
Foreword 4
A zesty editorial to unfold
Sightseeing 43
Discover what we’ve uncovered
Arrival & Getting Around 6
SOS! Have no fear, ZIYP is here
Shopping 52
Priceless places and buys
City Basics 9
The A-Z of Zagreb
Hotels 59
The true meaning of “do not disturb”
Tales of the Sava Riverbank 10
From past to the present day
Directory 61
Services you just may need
Culture & Events 12
A pick ‘n‘ mix list to brighten your stay
List of Small Features
The Foodie’s Guide 32
Restaurants 25 Tram N° 13 49
We give you the bread ‘n‘ butter of where to eat The Altar of St. Rocco 50
Affordable Art 54
Local Flavour 31
City Centre Shopping 57
Treat yourself or be treated
facebook.com/??City??InYourPocket
Editorial
youtube.com/inyourpocket Editor Višnja Arambašić
Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić,
Jonathan Bousfield, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić, Nikola Badovinac
Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac
Assistant Editor All the
Blanka Valićlatest news
www.inyourpocket.com
pinterest.com/inyourpocket Community Manager Eli Gajinov
Designfacebook.com/??City??InYourPocket
Lovro Boljat
Photography Zagreb In Your Pocket team unless otherwise
stated
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outside international arrivals, there is a Zagrebačka banka greb County and its surrounding area. Ticket prices in one must wear a muzzle and are charged at 50% of the stand-
office complete with a currency exchange (Open 08:00 - direction within a radius of 50 kilometres from the coun- ard price for tickets. 5 95
21:00) and ATM. In the departures hall there is an Informa- tries capital range from 26-77kn.
tion Centre (tel. 060 32 03 20), which is open 24 hours. Main Train Station (Glavni kolodvor) 5 75
Toilets: The toilets in the centre of the airport across from Main Bus Station (Autobusni kolodvor) QC‑4, Trg kralja Tomislava 12, tel. (+385-) 060 33 34 44,
the post office have a baby changing room, but do note QE‑4, Avenija M. Držića bb, tel. (+385-) 060 31 33 33, www.hzpp.hr.
that the ones on the top floor are less crowded. Getting to promet@akz.hr, www.akz.hr.
Town: Pleso prijevoz (www.plesoprijevoz.hr) runs a bus
service from Zagreb International Airport to the Zagreb Bus Public transport 5 25
Station (autobusni kolodvor), which leaves according to By train The Sljeme bus line
flight schedules from outside the international arrivals and Zagreb’s train station (željeznički kolodvor) is not very user- The Sljeme line numbered 140 takes off from Mihaljevac 5
costs 30kn/person. Those willing to part with a bit more friendly, but sees more traffic than other points of entry into Station and goes to the Tomislav’s dom Station, six times
cash can catch a taxi in front of the international arrivals. the city. Changing currency: When exiting the tracks walk a day throughout the week, and every hour on weekends 0
Due to the specific location of the Zagreb International Air- through the main hall to find an ATM machine in the left between 06:20 - 21:50.Qwww.zet.hr/userdocsimages/
port, taxi rates can differ significantly. Therefore, we recom- corner. A currency exchange is located in the international voznired/140.pdf.
mend you pre-book online prior to your arrival. Simply log ticketing area as is another ATM. The Information office
onto www.ekotaxi.hr and your taxi ride will be waiting for (Tel. 060 33 34 44. Open 06:00 - 22:00) is located between Trams & Buses
you with prices and comfort second to none. If you wish to the main hall and domestic ticketing area (to your right as Getting around town is made all the much easier via the
go solo and ride on your own, then the airport has over 10 you exit the tracks). Across from the Information window is city’s Tram and Bus Systems, both of which can take you
local and international rent-a-car agencies to choose from. a nifty tourist information touch screen - nifty, that is, if it from A to Z. Tramwise, the city has 15 tram lines that run
ever worked. The left luggage facilities (Garderoba) are from 04:00 - 24:00; the night trams (4 lines) run from 24:00
Zagreb International Airport available 24 hours and are to the left of the main hall as - 04:00. In terms of buses, a list of departure times can
(Međunarodna zračna luka Zagreb you exit the tracks. Each piece of luggage costs 15 - 25kn/ be found at all bus stops marked by the blue signs with
(MZLZ)) per day. Getting to Town: Walk out the main entrance a bus picture. The biggest bus stop is just south of C-4,
QRudolfa Fizira 1, tel. (+385-1) 456 22 22, www.zagreb- and survey your surroundings - this is the centre. To get Glavni kolodvor through the Importanne Mall passage.
airport.hr. to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, take tram There are 133 daily bus lines and 4 nightlines which link
N°6 towards Črnomerec or tram N°13 heading towards Zagreb, Sesvete, Velika Gorica and Zaprešić. The largest
The bus and train stations are not directly in close Žitnjak. Taxis queue in front of the main hall and a ride into and most known tram and bus stations are positioned at
proximity to one another but are within a 10 minute easy town will usually go along the most scenic of routes and Črnomerec, Dubec, Glavni kolodvor, and Savski most.
walk or a 2-4 minute drive by car. will cost around 30kn. Getting around Town: Railroads Tickets cost 10kn for daily transport and 15kn for night
are connected with almost all major cities in Croatia, train rides (00:00 - 04:00), each is valid for 90 minutes, while
rides within and around the Zagreb area are faster and less daily tickets are 30kn. Tickets are available from the driver
By bus expensive than other means of transport. There are also on buses, at kiosks or ZET stores. Children under six ride
The ground floor of the Zagreb Bus Station (autobusni seasonal discounts and organised day trips where guests free. Please validate your ticket once you board: an un-
kolodvor) is home to a series of shops where anything validated ticket is as good as no ticket at all, and getting
from bed linen to a cup of coffee can be procured. The caught without one is an embarrassing and costly00expe- 100
top floor is home to a post office (Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat Tourist Information rience, with inspectors operating on a random schedule.
08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun) and chapel. Window N°3, the For detailed schedules and route plans of ZET buses 5 and
Information centre (Open 00:00 - 24:00), usually is staffed Tourist Information Centre trams, simply visit www.zet.hr/default.aspx?id=290Qtel.
95
by someone with at least a minor command of English. Free info phone number 0800 53 53. Also at the Zagreb (+385-) 0800 20 00 60/(+385-) 060 10 00 01, javnost@
Changing currency: ATM machines are located in the Airport, next to the international arrivals area, at the Main zet.hr, www.zet.hr.
5 75
main hall next to the ticket office and outside the building Bus Station, at the Main Train Station and Lotršćak Tower.
along Avenija Marina Držića. There is a currency exchange QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 11, tel. (+385-) 0800
(mjenjačnica, Open 06:15 - 21:30, Sun 07:00 - 21:30) in the 53 53/(+385-1) 481 40 51, info@zagreb-touristinfo.hr, Biking
ticketing hall. Left luggage: Abandon your bags in the www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr. Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat Why not swap that four-wheeler for a two-wheeler? 5 In 25
Garderoba (Open 24hrs) located up the small staircase to 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. May - October Open what is becoming somewhat of a common trend, more
the right of the main hall for 5kn/hr unless your bag weighs 08:30 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. and more locals have thought wisely and have begun to 5
over 40kg in which case you’ll be paying 10kn/hr. Toilets choose the ecological route to town. Even though bike
are located up the small staircase to the left of the main Zagreb County Tourist Board routes haven’t fully been mapped, roads are marked for cy-
hall and cost 3kn. Getting to Town: Should you want to QC‑3, Preradovićeva 42, tel. (+385-1) 487 36 65, info@ clists with either red paint or are separated from the main
0
walk the 20 minutes into town, when your back is to the tzzz.hr, www.tzzz.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, road by yellow and white lines. Markings are very visible
station entrance the centre is to your left and behind you. Sun. and clear to both bike riders and car drivers. If you would
For proponents of public transportation a tram is your like to rent a bike (daily rental will cost 100kn), visit any of
6 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Spring 2016 7
Arrival & Getting Around City Basics
the following www.zagrebbybike.com, www.nextbike.
hr, www.bike.com.hr. For those seeking a recreational Customs Toilets
ride, then Maksimir, Bundek and Jarun are the ideal loca- As Croatia entered the EU on July 1 2013, there are no longer You ‘had to go’ forty-five minutes ago...public toilets or WCs
tions. True cycling enthusiasts who wish to be challenged custom limits between member states or tax return. For other (pronounced ‘vay-say’) are few, as one in the Cesarčeva
should know that the city surroundings are filled with alter- non-member states we recommend you to follow info at Street near the main city square, which is free of charge and
native bicycle routes that range in various levels of degree www.porezna-uprava.hr. wheelchair-accessible. Your best bet is to find and use one
as well as different types of surface. For all other informa- inside the shopping malls and bigger stores or take a seat
+385 1 1414 tion and maps, visit the Zagreb Tourist Association and
www.pedala.hr, www.mojbicikl.hr. Disabled travellers
at a café, order yourself a beverage and then hustle through
the appropriate door - gospoda or muški for men, dame
Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take shape or ženski for women.
and some improvements can be seen, but there is still a
Car rental loooong way to go. At the moment, all car parks have parking
Rent-a-car offices are located at airports and within the spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room adapt- Visas
co2 city’s large hotels (e.g., Sheraton, Panorama, Westin,...) or ed for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable access All citizens of states that need visas to enter other EU mem-
NEUTRAL within their immediate vicinity. Prices per day for an econo- with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings. In saying that, ber states need a visa to enter Croatia also. Therefore, make
hr
my or compact car class ranges from 250 to 550 kn. In order once you head outdoors one can expect problems on the sure to visit the Croatian consulate/embassy in your coun-
to rent a four wheeled vehicle, you need to have a credit streets, footpaths and access to most buildings. If you’re plan- try of origin, before visiting Croatia. In addition, if you are
xi.
card and be 18 years old (by law). If a problem occurs on ning to visit, we suggest you inquire about your destination flying to Dubrovnik and wish to visit other cities through-
ta
the road, first call your rent-a-car contact number, then the in relation to these matters and the majority will endeavour out Croatia, we recommend you obtain a visa for multiple
100% Co2 HAK roadside assistance service at (+ 385-1) 1987. to organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible. entries because of the border crossing through Bosnia and
ko
There are three parking zones in Zagreb, indicated by signs States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appli-
on the side of the street: zone 1(red) is 6kn/h with a maxi- ances. Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Zagreb signifi-
mum waiting time of 2 hours, zone 2 (yellow) is 3kn/h with cantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should
a maximum waiting time of 3 hours and zone 3 (green) keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of
pet friendly - order specially is 1.5kn/h. Purchase your ticket at the ticket machine box Water an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide
equiped car on hour before going to which is beside the parking sign and make sure you display Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking. Emergency Number 112 which then transfers you to
the desired destination it on your dashboard, or use your mobile to text message police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city
your registration number (no gaps) to the number shown district, in case you were involved in an accident or were
(including the international code if you’re using a foreign Money arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In
mobile (+385) 700101 (zone 1), 700102 (zone 2), 700103 There are plenty of exchange offices around Zagreb, as well that case, contact your embassy. The main building for ER
(zone 3). Your payment is confirmed when you receive a as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a is located in Heinzelova Street 88 (K-3) where everything
return text message from the appropriate authorities. As a day. Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards, but necessary will be done or you will be taken to the nearest
timely service, you’ll receive a text message reminding you not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on hospital if need. In case of an accident call HAK road help
to top up your parking ticket limit before it expires or to you. 24/7 (+385-1) 1987.
move your car. In case you don’t pay for your parking spot
baby friendly - order a car one or over-run your allotted time, you’ll be left a ticket valid
hour before going to the desired for 24 hours from the moment the beady-eyed inspector Tipping
destination spotted your naughtiness. The 24-hour ticket costs 100, Generally, Croatian people are not overly concerned about National Holidays
60 or 20kn respectively according to the zone, and can be tipping, but seeing how you’re a visitor to the country and
paid in any post office. all, you can practice some small-time diplomacy and throw a January 1 New Year’s Day
bit of goodwill to your server. Croatian people typically round January 6 Epiphany
their bill up to the nearest whole number when they want March 27 Easter
Taxis to tip, but leaving 10-15% for the staff’s efforts seems like a March 28 Easter Monday
Eko taxi classy thing for a visitor to do, doesn’t it? May 1 International Workers’ Day
QVodovodna 20a, tel. (+385-1) 14 14/(+385-) 099 456 May 26 Corpus Christi
04 55, rezervacija@ekotaxi.hr, www.ekotaxi.hr. T6
smartphone Roads June 22 Anti-Fascist Resistance Day
June 25 Statehood Day
Radio taksi Zagreb When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driv-
app QD‑6, Božidara Magovca 55, tel. (+385-) 060 80 08 00/ ing licence, traffic licence and green card with them. Stand-
August 5 Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day
(+385-1) 17 17, info@radio-taksi-zagreb.hr, www.radio- ard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no August 15 Feast of the Assumption
taksi-zagreb.hr. mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for October 8 Independence Day
drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is November 1 All Saints’ Day
Taxi Cammeo 50 km/ph unless otherwise marked, 80 km/ph on secondary December 25 Christmas
Qtel. (+385-1) 12 12/(+385-) 060 71 00, www.taxi- roads and 130 km/ph on highways. As they say, leave sooner, December 26 Saint Stephen’s Day
cammeo.hr. drive slower, live longer.
8 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Spring 2016 9
Tales of the Sava Riverbank Tales of the Sava Riverbank
down in the early evening hours and pedal the iron bikes Finally, see one fun filled part of Zagreb at the city’s larg-
for a lamp will begin to glow, oh so cool! If you love horses, est flea market named ‘Hrelić’ which takes place every
then you definitely need to visit the racetrack hippodrome Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday. The quickest way to
which is located on the right bank of the Sava before the get there is via bus number 295 which runs daily from
Most Slobode (Bridge of Freedom). A kids corner is per- Zapruđe Station, the timetable can be seen at www.zet.hr.
fectly placed next to the Boćarski dom with a large play- All in all, the Sava River still gives Zagrebians and its visi-
ground filled with slides, see saws, trampolines and more. tors so much to do and see, so take the time to visit the
Fancy a putt! Fans of golf can take a swing at the well-kept lifeline of the city. Have a picnic, or go for a walk, either
golf courses at the Golf & Country Club Zagreb (www. way, it’s a nice way to see an integral part of the past and
gcczagreb.hr) located near the Sava River. Fishing fans present!
won’t be disappointed because the waters of the Sava
River are risen with many fishing spots reachable by car.
The riverbed is rocky with deposits of sand and gravel. One
secret hotspot is perfect for špineraši (Spin Fishermen),
where the Eastern district Heating plant was reconstructed
with a stone dam over which rapids are created. Fish vari-
eties include bleak, chub, dace, nose carp, barbel, bream,
carp, pike, catfish and perch. Thanks to the diversity of fish
species, fishing is possible throughout the year. For any
additional information about fishing and licenses, visit the
Sports Fishing Association Piškor or contact them via
The Virgin - Photo by Lea Bogović mail or phone (www.srdpiskor-zg.hr).
Many of the world’s great cities have a river running became fashionable to wash your car from top to bottom On the right bank of the Sava River after the Most Slobode
through them, from the River Thames in London to the Yar- alongside the river. How eco-friendly is that? (Bridge of Freedom), there is the exquisite Lake Bundek
ra River in faraway Melbourne. Zagreb too has its own Sava In this day and age, you’ll be happy to know that swim- and park where one can enjoy various sports activities (cy- Zagreb 1978., washing cars on river Sava - Photo by Pavao Cajzek
River, a symbol of the city that has over the years shared its ming and car washing are strongly prohibited but in juxta- cling, inline skating, roller blading, walking and jogging).
ups and downs with Zagrebians. As opposed to many other position, there is an abundance of ‘sports and recreational Barbecues and small wooden cafes are about! Whilst on
rivers, the Sava River is not located centrally, but rather on activities’linked to the Sava River embankment and Lakes the left bank of the Sava and before the Savski Most there is
the outskirts of the city. It is one of the three longest riv- Jarun and Bundek. the Sports and Recreational Centre Jarun. At Lake Jarun
ers in Croatia running a length of 944km, whilst the width By walking the river embankment you can spot the so- visitors can row, sail, cycle, roller-blade, jog and do much
of the river spans more than 100 meters in parts. FYI, the called ‘Kockica’ building that was built in the early 1960’s, more. The Sports and Recreation Centre Mladost is just
Sava River along Zagreb is neither navigable nor drinkable, a thorough example of socialist architecture. It was built before Jarun and a top destination all year round with both
mostly because of industry and waste water treatment; yet according to a project created by the great Croatian archi- indoor and outdoor pool facilities.
despite this, it’s common to see some fishermen hoping for tect Ivan Vitić. Also, the ‘Croatian Radio and Television’ If you’re feeling peckish and fancy a meal, there are sev-
a catch along the riverbank. building isn’t hard to miss. The ‘Alley of Sculptures’ is the eral eateries along the Sava River and its embankment. For
Turning back the clock, the first public beach was opened largest open-air gallery in Zagreb with 11 sculptures of those wanting pizza and pasta, there is Stara Sava (Savska
in 1926 by the then mayor Vjekoslav Heinzel. The water Croatian sculptors to choose for that perfect selfie. Also, Street 208), or Pizzeria Helena Jarun (Županići Street
was crystal clear back then, drinkable in fact, and in ad- the Sava embankment has a view of the ‘greenbridge’ or 1). For something a bit meatier or off the BBQ, meaning
dition to swimming, the beach was a place where one Savski Most (Sava Bridge) which Zagrebians know as the meat rolls, burgers and kebabs, definitely visit NK Sava
would stroll, play cards, sing, mingle, socialise, play games... ‘Hendrix’ bridge because of the graffiti dedicated to the (Gredice 157). Feel like some Italian cuisine, then visit the
The area known as ‘Babinjak’ was primarily a sunbathing rock legend which has been written on it for years. De- Restaurant Pizzeria Oliva (Jarunska 5), or visit the res- Jarun Lake - Photo by Višnja Arambašić
area where many of Zagreb’s ladies would catch a tan. spite the number of times authorities have repainted the taurant Balon located near Boćarski dom (Prisavlje 2).
The swimming area had about 900 cabins, with one end bridge, graffiti artists always manage to respray the sign in Once dinner is done, coffee and dessert is calling and you Sound Art Inkubator 2013. - Photo by Sara B. Moritz
including the so-called ‘Gospodarić’s baths’ where wealthy its rightful place. In addition to the aforementioned bridge, can choose from the numerous cafes in and around Park Močvara Gallery Archives
citizens unconcerned with admission prices would seek lei- Zagreb’s Sava bridges are a set of road, rail and pedestrian Bundek, Lake Jarun and Boćarski dom.
sure and refreshments. Did someone say ticket price? Yes, bridges that connect the left and right banks of the Sava As for Nightlife on the river Sava, the once popular clubs
indeed, one had to pay to bathe in parts! To the right there River. on rafts ‘Papilon’ and ‘Sidro’ are in poor condition and not in
was a public beach with two wooden pools in the river it- The Sava River embankment also offers many opportuni- function. But, there is a retreat and that is in the newly reno-
self. At the time, ‘The Sava Riviera’ stretched all the way ties for sports activities where one can walk, jog solo or join vated ‘Brazil Boat’on the River and its open from Wednes-
to present-day Lake Jarun and the Sava Beach also held an an organised running group. Eager beavers who love to days to Saturdays, more information can be found on their
annual‘beauty pageant’. cycle can ride all the way to Sveta Nedelja along a route Facebook page. For those craving something purely
Things turned for the worse in the 1960’s when a huge that is 16km long (route details can be found at www.sve- heavier to alternative in terms of music, there are lots of
flood engulfed one third of Zagreb in 1964. The flood de- tanedelja.hr ). gigs and live performances to exhibitions at Club Močvara
stroyed many of the beach structures and with contamina- (Trnjanski nasip bb). Event details can be tracked down
tion detected, bathing in the river was prohibited and so There’s fun for everyone along the left bank where there are at: www.mochvara.hr or Pogon Jedinstvo - Zagreb’s
the beach was only used for sunbathing.To make matters several landscaped grounds for tennis, football, and bas- Centre for Independent Culture and Youth (Trnjanski
worse, a large number of cars began to invade the city at ketball. And on the embankment itself near the suburb of nasip bb ), www.upogoni.org/wp/.
the time and the Sava River served as a ‘car wash’, it even Savica, one can find 2 iron bikes and we dare you to head
10 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Spring 2016 11
Culture & Events Culture & Events
Rock & Pop Concerts 07.06 Tuesday
15.04 Friday Zakk Wylde
Gustafi - Maneštra To coincide with the 20th anniversary of ‘Book of Shad-
This cult Istrian band is touring in support of their elev- ows’, Wylde has recently released a Part 2 version of the
enth studio album spice fully named ‘Maneštra’, or in album and will tour the old continent; Wylde is known for
the English language ‘Minestrone’. From classics to latest his amazing finger tapping on the electric guitar and came
hits such as ‘Hiti se na mene’ and ‘Za ljubav se ne moli’, to fame when he began playing with Ozzy Osbourne in
a night of eclectic blues, Tex-Mex and folk can be ex- 1987. He is the founder of the band ‘Black Label Society’
pected at the Tvornica Kulture venue, just like a true min- and one of the most highly respected rock guitarists
estrone mix.QE‑3, Tvornica Kulture, Šubićeva 2, www. of this era.QE‑3, Tvornica Kulture, Šubićeva 2, www.
tvornicakulture.com. Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets tvornicakulture.com. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets
50 - 70kn. 150 - 210kn.
twitter.com/
Anna Calvi - Photo by Roger Deckker, Reflektor Festival Archives
inyourpocket
14 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com
Culture & Events
early Iron Age. These findings represent the remains of
the Hallstatt culture and show the economic wealth and
strength of this Iron Age population to be one of the rich-
est Iron Age findings in the southeastern area.QC‑1, Zagreb
City Museum, Opatička 20, www.mgz.hr.
APRIL - JUNE
Nives Kavurić Kurtović - Retrospective /
Prospective
A painter and academic who changed the view of Surreal-
ism and other ‘isms’ in Croatian fine arts of the 20th and 21st
century. Kurtović held her first exhibition in 1963 with paint-
ings, ink and pen on white paper. Her oeuvre and status
had changed with time where today’s audience can see her
paintings in oil, or in large format with over 200 of her com-
plex and most intriguing works presented.QC‑1, Klovićevi
Simply Red - Zagreb Calling Archives dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4, www.gkd.hr.
11.03 Friday - 24.04 Sunday
Bachrach & Krištofić 14.04 Thursday - 29.05 Sunday
As part of the local art scene, Sanja Bachrach and Mario Boris Bućan - Breakfast at the Printing
Krištofić, are one of the most popular artist couples and Factory - A selection from the Collec-
are well-known for their rock and roll style, which comes tion of Posters
to life in their designs and photography. This exhibition Bućan is one of the doyens of Croatian Graphic Design who
will display different works from their 35 year career.QB‑3, started his career in the late 60s. This chronological exhibi-
Arts and Crafts Museum, Trg maršala Tita 10, www. tion will present up to 80 posters in large format and many
muo.hr. more dating from the early 70s to the late 90’s. An accom-
panying catalogue will be printed with samples of his works
15.03 Tuesday - 17.04 Sunday and paintings, as well as responses from acclaimed foreign
Dražen Trogrlić - An Intimate Universe experts, writers and critics.QJ‑4, Contemporary Art Mu‑
2000 – 2015 (Paintings, Sculptures, Draw- seum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, www.msu.hr.
ings)
At this exhibition, more than one hundred different works, 26.04 Tuesday - 29.05 Sunday
including paintings, drawings, watercolors, prints and Dalibor Jelavić - a Critical Retrospective
sculptures from the period 2000 - 2015 by the artist Dražen 1976 - 2016
Trogrlić will be presented. Don’t miss out on seeing these As part of the series entitled ‘Painting retrospectives of the
great works by this modern artist.QC‑3, Modern Gallery, Modern Gallery’, a selection of 120 of the best works from
Andrije Hebranga 1, www.moderna-galerija.hr. Jelavić’s oeuvre, which is made up of oils, drawings, prints,
tapestries and enamels that were generated more than four
16.03 Wednesday - 15.05 Sunday decades ago, will be showcased. Jelavić is known for his
Budinjak – the field of tumuli: archaeo- expressive gestures and powerful colours making him one
logical investigations 1995 – 2014 of the most impressive verticals of contemporary Croatian
Budinjak is located in the central area of the Žumberak abstract art.QC‑3, Modern Gallery, Andrije Hebranga 1,
Mountains at a height of 740 m above sea level, about 50 www.moderna-galerija.hr.
km west of Zagreb. Near the village a plateau is located
where there is a large necropolis burial mound from the www.inyourpocket.com
16 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com
Culture & Events Culture & Events
28.04 Thursday - 26.06 Sunday
Ivo Dulčić’s Mediterranean – Marking
the centenary of the artist’s birth
A Dalmatian devotee to art most known for his religious
and earthly themes; in celebration of 100 years since
Dulčić’s birth, the exhibition focuses on one of the special
aspects of his work - motifs of Mediterranean landscapes,
regions, scenery and light, which too many is where he
achieved the fullness of his artistic potential.QC‑3, Art
Pavilion in Zagreb, Trg kralja Tomislava 22, www.
umjetnicki-paviljon.hr.
MAY - JULY
Dolomiti – National Geographic Croatia
and Georg Tappeiner
Get a first glance of the Dolomites with their spectacular
mountain ranges, romantic alpine meadows and deep blue
lakes. In this travelling photo exhibition, renowned photog-
rapher Georg Tappeiner even captures meteors dispersing
across the skyline above the mountains and lit like flames. In
this bond between man and mountains, we are also remind-
ed of the need to protect our planet.QC‑2, Archaeological
Museum In Zagreb, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, www.
amz.hr.
Lateral
Situated behind the Main Bus Station, Lateral is already
kod Žaca repast. Kitchen closes at 22:00QB‑2, Masarykova 11/1, tel.
getting pretty good press from, for the most part it must
be said, weary travellers glad of being able to enjoy a
If you’ve not heard of this place then you’ve not spoken (+385-1) 889 74 44/(+385-) 099 254 69 59, contactzagreb@
proper meal, and still be near their bus to the airport. The
to anyone living within its delivery radius. Known for its nishtarestaurant.com, www.nishtarestaurant.com. Open
food, the desserts, the wine list… No complaints can be
pizza and lasagne you could probably eat here all month 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (49 - 69kn). PTJA6
long and still have something new to try. Zagreb is truly GW
had. The hot chocolate brownie is definitely something
blessed when it comes to pizza, and it’s nigh impossible to
that will draw you back for seconds.QE‑4, Strojarska 22,
tel. (+385-1) 611 14 11/(+385-) 098 43 30 55, lateral@
suggest a must-try for here…but the biftek pizza probably Šumski Kuhar Bistro
edges it.QJ‑2, Nike Grškovića 4, tel. (+385-1) 468 41 78, Slap bang in the middle of the bustling centre, this first
cateringlisak.hr, www.cateringlisak.hr. Open 11:00
www.pizzakodzaca.hr. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (40 - 70kn). floor venue feels like it could be miles from any noise what-
- 22:00. Closed Sun. (45 - 150kn). PTAUGB
XW
PT6VNGSW soever. All ingredients are sourced in Croatia where pos-
sible, and the dessert menu would put many slastičarnice
O’Hara to shame.QC‑2, Tkalčićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 481 96 34,
Pod Zidom Coffee, Food & Wine Bar
Pod Zidom (Under the Wall) is a wine bar and bistro, it
O’Hara’s is well known throughout Zagreb, having seen sumskikuharbistro@gmail.com, www.sumskikuhar.com.
offers dishes made from the fresh groceries which it gets
their pizza chefs win award after award, after award. The Open 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (15 - 55kn). PJA
western suburbs of the capital might seem an odd place 6GBW
from the nearby Dolac market, a wide selection of Croatian
for a pizzeria such as this, but the locals aren’t complain-
indigenous wines, as well as the usual array of cocktails
and refreshments. A must try is Ručak s Dolca (Lunch from
ing, and nor are the many others who travel across the Zrno Bio Bistro
city to eat here. Everything tastes divine, and while you 100% organic food, the only place in Croatia which can
Dolac), as every ingredient is prepared with care, creativity,
might come away thinking you could have eaten more, boast such a thing, it also a decent selection of regional
and love. From 11:00 to 23:00, every day, Pod Zidom has
Cantina Archives you will not feel the least bit hungry. That’s a guarantee. wines available. The interior is warm in appearance, with
a special a la carte menu, featuring beef carpaccio, pork
QF‑3, I.B.Mažuranić 1b, tel. (+385-1) 379 21 12, www. a narrow terrace outside if the weather allows. There’s a
sliders, agnolotti with rabbit ragu, spring asparagus and
Time Restaurant & Bar oharazagreb.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (39 bookstore in the basement as well, for budding architects.
broad beans risotto, chicken drumstick-thigh cooked in a
Time, in a classical sense, might be fleeting, but this place - 86kn). PTAGBXS QB‑2, Medulićeva 20, tel. (+385-1) 484 75 40, restoran@
vacuum, liquid chocolate cake. QC‑2, Pod Zidom 5, tel.
certainly isn’t. Perhaps better known to many as a great bio-zrno.hr, www.zrnobiobistro.hr. Open 12:00 - 21:30.
(+385-) 098 66 96 90, info@podzidom.hr. Open 11:00 -
bar, Time is also a restaurant serving Asian fusion food, Zero Zero Closed Sun. (45 - 59kn). PA6GBW
23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (30 - 75kn). EB
something not so common in Zagreb even a few years Zero Zero sits near a corner of Vlaška, not far from the
ago. Whatever you order make sure you try the spring tramline, and it’s transport you’ll need after eating here…
rolls with duck.QC‑2, Petrinjska 7, tel. (+385-1) 333 36 Pizza The pizzas are HUGE, and taste of more. The food is Nea- Join the conversation with IYP
60. Open Mon - Thu 07:00 - 02:00, Fri 07:00 - 03:00, Sat politan, and we’d love to tell you more about the décor
09:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. (70 - 160kn). PTJA Franky’s
and general surrounds, but the meat and seafood pizzas
Eat in or have it delivered, Franky’s is situated just north
GBKX kept the reviewers glued to their plates. Great for dates,
of Zagreb’s nightlife district in the Kaptol Centre (2nd
family gatherings, or even a solo trip.QD‑2, Vlaška 35,
floor), so is a handy place to grab a bite (and have a drink)
tel. (+385-1) 889 70 00. Open 10:30 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 -
Lunches before heading home, and in relative peace and quiet
23:00. (20 - 69kn). PTJAUGBXW SYMBOL key
Bistro Jadranka too. Do your shopping, settle in for a meal, enjoy a glass
Perhaps not exactly central, Bistro Jadranka is near enough of wine. Franky’s does white pizza, which is not always
something you’ll see in any pizzeria.QI‑2, Nova ves 17, P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
to the centre to be accessible, but far enough away that
tel. (+385-1) 486 08 34, mguberina2@gmail.com. Open Vege Restaurants
your fellow guests are likely to be locals. Menu changes T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled
each Monday, with extra fish dishes added each Friday. 10:00 - 22:45. (22 - 63kn). PTJAULVGB Nishta
Has an active Facebook account where you can find out XSW The menu has adequate depth and variety, and you’ll see
a wonderful mix of cold raw, and hot cooked vegetarian B Outside seating L Guarded parking
what’s available in a given week. You can pick your own
wine from the shop next door, and have it with your meal dishes. The menu also contains vegan and gluten-free
dishes for those more in tune with Mother Nature. En- S Take away 6 Pet-friendly
for a small surcharge.QI‑3, Ulica Grada Vukovara 56, tel. facebook.com/ joy the local wines, beers, and home-made juices that
(+385-1) 611 35 18. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. zagrebinyourpocket Nishta has to offer. Staff is very helpful and will assist in
W Wifi J Old town location
Closed Sun. (30 - 129kn). Pi AGBS
choosing an option for those unfamiliar with vegetarian
28 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com 29 Zagreb
facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket
In Your Pocket Spring 2016 29
Restaurants Local Flavour
Potentially even more off-putting is the dairy section at
BREAKFAST hit the market Dolac, an enclosed area with an unmistakeably milky aroma.
If you love your food and enjoy cooking, you won’t want to There rows of ladies invite you to taste their wares, and we
Bistro Fotić
miss the farmers’ markets. Zagreb has over 20 of them; most strongly advise you to do so. Try slivers of supple young
Vegetarian quiche with ham, omelets, coffee, freshly
neighbourhoods have at least a few stalls selling fruit and cheese (svježi sir), rich sour cream (vrhnje), smoked cheese
squeezed oranges, fried bread, whole-grain groat, eggs,
vegetables, while at the larger markets you’ll also find meat, (dimljeni sir), cheese flavoured with paprika, nettle, herbs or
apple and cheese strudel.QC‑3, Gajeva 25, tel. (+385-1)
fish, dairy produce and a whole lot more. made with goat’s or sheep’s milk (kozji, ovčji sir). Also look out
481 04 76, kontakt@bistrofotic.com, www.bistrofotic.
for the Gligora stall selling highly-regarded cheese from Pag
com. Breakfast is served: Mon - Sat 08:00 - 11:00. Closed
The charms of open-air markets are known far and wide. island.
Sun. (20 - 40kn). iJ
Piles of produce gleaming in the sun; the local colour, the
lively atmosphere. However, for outsiders it can be a daunt- A trip to the fish section (ribarnica) is part culinary voyage,
Bistroteka
ing experience. You have to find a way to communicate with part natural history adventure. The creatures of the deep
Oatmeal, porridge, scrambled eggs, poached eggs, qui-
the stallholders. While the locals develop relationships with whose gaze you’ll meet you’ve probably never seen before.
noa, and sandwiches with avocado.QC‑2, Nikole Tesle 14,
their favourite stallholders over years, you’re here just for the Along with shimmering crates of sardines are plump pink
tel. (+385-1) 483 77 11, www.bistroteka.hr. Breakfast is
Bistroteka Archives weekend. How can you be sure you’re not short-changed or scorpion fish, exquisite yet ugly monkfish; jumbo Adriatic
served: Mon - Fri 08:00 - 11:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. Closed
given spoiled produce? squid, conger eel, river trout and huge, fearsomely-toothed,
Sun. (19 - 30kn). iJ
delicious and hideously expensive dentex. If you’re not sure
on’t be fooled into thinking that just because this is an
D how to prepare these things, ask the stallholder who will usu-
Johann Franck
open-air market everything is as local as it is picturesque. If ally gut them for you and offer advice on cooking. Look for
Homemade cheese and sour cream, bacon and onion, glu-
you look carefully you can spot the importers - the fruit is fish with plump flesh and bright (not sunken) eyes. There’s
ten-free bread, omelet with cheese and mushrooms, turkey
a little too regular in shape; the produce is not as fresh as it fish to suit every pocket, and the cheapest, the humble sar-
sandwich with mozzarella, toast, croissants with chocolate
might be; the produce on sale is out of season and its pack- dine (just 20kn a kilo), is the healthiest of them all.
and jam.QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 9, johann.franck@
aging belies its foreign origins. The beauty of the market is
johannfranck.hr, www.franck.eu/johann-franck/. Break‑
buying veg that was picked early this morning (or yesterday At the far end of the open-air part of Dolac market you’ll find
fast is served: Mon - Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. (25
at the latest). It’s travelled into town in a big chequered bag herbal teas and tinctures and traditional craft items such as
- 40kn). iJ
with the lady from the surrounding countryside - these ladies lace tablecloths, embroidered slippers and wooden toys.
are known as kumice and for their years spent supplying the Above is a plateau named after Petrica Kerempuh, a literary
Kava Tava
city’s markets they’ve earned their own statue at the top of character. The Kerempuh restaurant is a great spot for a tasty
How do you like your eggs? Cooked, scrambled or sunny-
the steps on Dolac market (C-2). Or it might be trucked in lunch, and the Potepuh café has been the meeting place of
side-up? Not to mention bacon ‘n’ eggs, sausages ‘n’ eggs,
from the coast where it’s spent its life under the warm Dal- artists and intellectuals for decades, including poet Tin Ujević
toasts, Yankee Doodle pancakes, cottage cheese with
matian sun. and novelist Miroslav Krleža. In summer, you can buy bedding
cream, tortillas.QA‑2; C‑2, Britanski trg & Tkalčićeva ulica
plants, herbs and other supplies for your garden or window
12, info@tomtom.hr, www.kavatava.com. Breakfast is
See that bit of mud on the roots of your spinach? That’s a box in this part of the market. Go a little further along Opa-
served: 07:00 - 24:00. (14 - 110kn). iJ
good sign that tells you this is the real deal. This food wasn’t tovina (C-1) and you’ll find stalls selling cheap clothing.
raised on artificial substrate so it’s full of flavour. With a bit
Johann Franck Archives Louie Cafe & Kitchen
of luck it’s not soaked with chemical fertilizers or pesticides Down the Dolac steps and towards the square are flower
English breakfast (eggs, bacon, sausages and mushrooms),
Cantina Archives either. Look out for people with a slightly motley selection of stalls, a mirror held up to the changing seasons. Along with
a protein smoothie, yogurt with chia seeds, croissants, muf-
goods that tell you they’re smallholders, not large-scale trad- hothouse staples there are always narcissi in the spring, chry-
fins, homemade focaccia with chicken, roast beef sand-
ers. Seek out imperfections in the produce - natural food is santhemums in autumn, and lavender and sunflowers to help
wiches and burgers.QC‑1, Nova Ves 19, tel. (+385-1) 466
not all the same size and shape. Look for a nice bit of mud you pay homage to the summer.
61 59. Breakfast is served: Mon - Thu, Sun 08:00 - 22:00,
(but not too much water, that’s a trick to add weight on the
Fri, Sat 08:00 - 23:00. (18 - 58kn). iJ
scales). As you can see, your shopping spree on Dolac is hard work
so you deserve a break. A legendary place for a light lunch is
Mundoaka Street Food - Food with
The aforementioned Dolac has been feeding the citizens of Bistro Amfora, strategically positioned under the arches by the
Heart and Soul
Zagreb since 1930, and it’s one of the liveliest spots in the fish market. The place hasn’t changed in the past 30 years; it’s
Poached eggs with salmon, brioche, toast, croissants, and
city. From 06:00 to around 14:00, it’s full of banter, barter, one of the last reminders of Zagreb in years gone by and the
muffin.QC‑2, Petrinjska 2, tel. (+385-1) 788 87 77, info@
chatter, shouting and laughter. It’s fringed by cafes and little locals gather from dawn to chew over the day’s gossip. The
mundoakastreetfood.com. Breakfast is served: Mon -
food outlets; a trip there is an unmissable part of the sight- smell of frying squid and sardines is irresistible. A main course
Sat 09:00 - 11:30. Closed Sun. (35 - 45kn). iJ
seeing schedule. (we suggest crni rižot, squid ink risotto) and a glass of wine
will set you back just a few euro.
The Brick Booze & Bites
If you’re a vegetarian, you’ll want to avoid the meat section
The menu sways more towards Istrian cuisine offering
where you’ll be confronted by bits of carcass swinging all The other main Zagreb markets include Britanski trg (A-2)
scrambled eggs with truffles, omul, asparagus, coffee,
over the place. The meat market is far from unsanitary but it’s (affectionately known as Britanac), which transforms into an
juice, champagne, bread with jam, pancakes, sandwiches
a far cry from the cellophane-wrapped sterility of the super- antiques market on Sundays; and Trešnjevački plac (H-3)
with Istrian prosciutto and cheese, and Istrian fritters
market; there’s no kidding you where that pork chop came and Kvatrić (Kvaternikov trg J-3) - also largeish markets
(pancake with Istrian curd and honey)QC‑1, Radićeva 36,
from. Here you can choose from fresh meat of all kinds, cured with good fish sections and much more.
thebrickboozeandbites@gmail.com. Breakfast is served:
hams, bones and tails for your soup, spicy Slavonian kulen (a
Mon - Thu, Sun 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. (35-
little like a giant chorizo), multitude salamis and the scourge So, pick up your basket and head for the market! Great food,
55kn). iJ
of children everywhere, offal. good cheer and some super photo opportunities await you.
30 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Spring 2016 31
Local Flavour Coffee & Cakes
The Foodie’s Guide 21.05 Saturday Coffee
12.05 Thursday - 22.05 Sunday Flavours and fragrances of Croatia A Most Unusual Garden
Zagreb Beer & Burger Festival Under the motto ‘fall in love with Croatian traditional cui- Enter a garden, not just any garden, a garden filled with
Many of you know the classic ‘two all beef paddies on a sine’, everyone is invited to this brand new event which decoration and as you begin to hear the chimes and
sesame seed bun commercial’ and you’ll be seeing plenty aims to promote the wide range of national foods and rhythm, you’ll stumble across a tree house turn café.
of buns and burgers at the Strossmayer Square in May. dishes that are distinguished by their unique taste, aroma This architectural masterpiece is decked out in a lush
Starve if you need to, but come with empty tummies and and consistency. Feel free to dabble and experiment in bohemian style, fancy yet rustic. Hot’n’cold beverages
full pockets so that you can eat and drink to your hearts premium foods and beverages and see why table culture are available all day round and you can choose to chill sky
content with the best Beers and Burgers in town, this is an is an indispensable part of Croatian life.Qwww.phs.hr. high or down to earth, if you know what we mean.QH‑4,
invite to our vegetarian friends too, there’s plenty of va- Horvaćanska 3, tel. (+385-) 091 464 69 00. Open 08:00
riety for everyone!QC‑3, Trg Josipa Jurja Strossmayera. 09.06 Thursday - 10.07 Sunday - 24:00. PGBXW
Foodbalerka - Retro Gourmet Football
Burger - Louie Cafe & Kitchen Archives Festival Booksa
The European Football Championships can be seen live Chill, laid back, Booksa could be a bookshop or library for
and on big screens at Park Ribnjak, just behind the Ca- all the reading material on offer. Come in, order from a
thedral. The name of the event is a cross between food wide selection of teas, pick a book off the shelf, and relax.
& football, and most of all the mullet hairstyles that soc- There are also readings and workshops on a regular basis.
cer players had in the 80s, named fudbalerka in Croatian. A far-reaching vision indeed.QD‑2, Martićeva 14d, tel.
Lots of food and beverage stands will have you pacing up (+385-1) 461 61 24, info@booksa.hr, www.booksa.hr.
and down the park, bring a blanket and get into the EURO Open 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. 6NGBW
championships in style!QD‑1, Ribnjak Park.
Dežman Bar
Cooking workshops for tourists with Dežmanova is surely Zagreb’s most hip street. Already
disabilities home to great fast food joints and cafes, it’s also where Velvet Archives
In the City Centre, at Nova Ves 10, the UNUO Association you’ll find Dežman Bar with its cocktails, snacks and pas-
has organised free culinary weekend workshops for tour- tries. It’s gluten free, if you’re concerned about allergens,
ists with disabilities. Groups are small, so reserve your and it stocks Croatian beers. But don’t worry if you think Express Bar
spot at www.unuo.hr (prijava) and learn how to make it’s somehow a ‘hippy’ bar… they have a BBQ sandwich It’s an unassuming looking place, but with friendly staff
traditional Croatian specialities in a comfortable environ- on the menu too!QB‑2, Dežmanova 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 (but oh so skilled), and a pretty decent selection of coffee
ment full of uninterrupted enjoyment, socialising, and fun. 61 60, info@dezman.hr, www.dezman.hr. Open 08:00 - and tea blends. Plenty of seating both indoors and outside,
Besides tourists with disabilities, everyone else can also 24:00, Fri - Sat 08:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. Pi TJ naturally, on the street. Coffee? Purely seasonal and is based
join the workshop!QC‑1, UNUO Association, Nova Ves BXW on fresh harvest and freshly roasted coffee. Express has
10, www.unuo.hr. ‘blends’, a mixture of coffee most often from different coun-
Photo by Višnja Arambašić Divas tries, so Costa Rica, Salvador and Brazil might be in blend
The Little Market from the Attic The yumminess of Divas cafe is at least in part a product of this week, whereas next weeks could be entirely different.
Many people feel they’d love to have better access to its previous life as a fashion boutique and its owner’s first They also have single origin coffee! So, if you devour coffee,
healthy, organically grown food. And at the same time, love in the world of design. Intimate and inspiring seating then you need to put the time aside to try a few cups.QC‑2,
producers of organic food need better access to custom- areas create a welcoming aura as an enticing prelude to Petrinjska 4. Open 07:00 – 23:00, Sat 08:00 – 22:00, Sun
ers. The Little Market from the Attic (Mali plac s Ta- drink selections complimented by cakes and munchies. 09:00 – 14:00.
vana) is an answer to this problem, enabling people to Tea, coffee and spirits lovers alike can savor the variety of
have a lot of fun along the way. Here you can find all kinds classic and unique selections listed at drinkably affordable Kino Europa
of interesting delicacies from the furthest corners of Croa- rates in the hand-sewn menu cards.QD‑2, Martićeva 17, Zagreb’s best known arthouse cinema, Kino Europa is
tia, plus natural cosmetics, eco-friendly cleaning products tel. (+385-1) 457 99 42, divasbar@mail.com. Open 07:00 so much more. Serving as a large café by day (with cakes
and a whole lot more. It’s also a meeting place where you - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. PNG and sandwiches available) the nights offer twice as much.
can learn from others about growing and enjoying natural BXW Two halls play host to events such as quizzes, music per-
healthy food. For locations and dates check their website. formances, and of course documentaries. Kino Europa is
Qwww.mali-plac.org. J Eli’s not only home to any number of film festivals but also to a
Any coffee aficionado would be mad not to pay this small rather kitsch shop where one can procure some very eclec-
Wine School by Jelena Šimić Valentić coffee shop a visit. Non-smoking, because the owner feels tic items indeed. It should be a weekly ritual to check the
Love wine! Wanna learn more? Enroll into these work- it ruins the taste, and serving nothing but coffee, Eli’s has cinema’s website for upcoming features.QB‑2, Varšavska
shops which provide for 15 to 20 people. They consist of one of the friendliest staff ever encountered in oft-gruff Za- 3, tel. (+385-1) 487 28 88, info@kinoeuropa.hr, www.
three 180 minute sessions per month with the exact dates greb. Coffee is seasonal so you can be sure of getting the kinoeuropa.hr. Open 08:30 - 02:00. PJBW
to be released two weeks prior to school starting. Classes right sort of coffee to match the time of year. Eli’s are care-
always begin at 18:30 and four international wines will al- ful about the quality of their product and only supply a few Palainovka
ways be tasted!Qtel. (+385-) 098 165 80 73, pupitres@ locations elsewhere in the city.QA‑2, Ilica 63, tel. (+385-) Situated on Ilirski trg, this is ideally placed to act as start-
pupitres.hr, www.pupitres.hr. 091 455 56 08, info@eliscaffe.com, www.eliscaffe.com. ing point, or finishing point, for those eager to explore the
Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. area outside the old walls of Zagreb. Around the corner
www.inyourpocket.com PJNGW you’ll find a path leading onto Dubravkin put, which in
Jazz
Bacchus Jazz Bar
Arrive early for a table close to the stage in the vaulted grotto,
but the music is still audible if you’re seated out in the courtyard
on a step or stone wall, in an alcove or niche, or under a fig tree. Zagreb 4U, Photo by Sanjin Kaštelan (TZGZ Archives)
The solitary can read one of the books from the shelves under
Tesla Power House Archives the bar.QC‑3, Trg kralja Tomislava 16, tel. (+385-) 098 32 28 most beautiful cemeteries in Europe. Lime-green cupolas
04, ejudnamo@yahoo.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. Essential Zagreb top the wall that surrounds the memorial park. Mirogoj is
TJ6NBXW Ban Josip Jelačić Square (Trg bana Josipa not only a burial place but also a beautiful park and open
Jelačića) art gallery. Not far from the present mortuary, in the period
Melin This Austro-Hungarian styled square is the true centre of between 1852 and 1895 there stood the summer house
Tucked away just off of one of Zagreb’s most famous streets, the city. There’s a phenomenal variety of cafés, shopping, of the Illyrian leader, Ljudevit Gaj. After his death the mu-
Tkalčićeva, Melin functions as a café by day and club by night feeding and people watching everywhere. It was named nicipality bought the complete estate and constructed
offering live jazz performances on Friday and Saturday evenings. after the impressive sculpture within its domain, that of the central Zagreb cemetery upon it. The well-known ar-
Decorated in a retro-chic style with old fashioned TV sets used as Count Jelačić, his deadly steed, and a sword so pointy chitect Herman Bollé designed the shape of the cemetery,
makeshift tables, the cozy outdoor patio is surrounded by trees and sharp that it could poke your eye out. Our count’s im- applying a monumental composition of arcades, pavilions
and greenery and adorned with old-time radios. Take a seat at age has inspired a number of political outbursts: in 1947 and domes, intermingled with rich vegetation, and add-
one of the mismatched, but stylish colourful chairs and tables it was dismantled and chucked into a corner somewhere ing a gallery of sculptures by Croatian sculptors. Getting
and enjoy a drink in this artsy atmosphere.QC‑1, Kožarska 19, because leaders found it overly representative of national- There Bus N°106 from the Cathedral to Mirogoj takes
tel. (+385-1) 488 02 98, melin.bar@gmail.com, www.melin. ism in the country. The year 1990 brought it back into its 15min and costs 10kn. You can also take tram N°14 from
hr. Open 10:00 - 02:00. TJA6EBXW current place, this time leaders believing it perfectly na- the main square heading east (to Mihaljevac) and get out
tionalistic.QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. at the fourth stop (Gupčeva zvijezda).QJ‑1, Mirogoj bb.
Chui - Antun Tony Zupanac
Sax! Pubs Maksimir Park & the City Zoo (Maksimir- St Mark’s Church (Crkva sv. Marka)
This is the place to take in some live music, for it plays Bikers Beer Factory ski park i Zoološki vrt) The spectrum of colours displayed on the roof beautifully
here every night and is an especially delicious and wide Located on Savska Street next to the restaurant Mex Cantina A perfect half-day outing for love birds, families, the four- depicts the Croatian, Dalmatian and Slavonian coats-of-
array of styles. Blues, jazz, rock, pop and much more are all and in a backyard encircled with garages and a big motorcycle legged, this place will revitalise a tired soul. Leaves, lakes, arms and also the Zagreb city emblem and provides for
featured, and the crowd tends to be especially happy for parking lot. High tables, good staff, the interior is full wood, bricks grasses and dirt are all a part of the equation as well as quite a lasting visual. Due to various natural disasters
their chance to take the night of fun in. Admission varies and lights with excerpts from any bikers’ world (helmets, exhaust clouds, a sky and periodically the very sun! Blaring car en- it has received a ton of reconstruction and not a whole
depending on the show - this place is a can’t miss.QD‑3, pipes etc). Jukebox and good choice of foreign beer. Sounds gines have been removed from this place and as such it’s a lot remains of the original 14th century building. Inside,
Palmotićeva 22, tel. (+385-1) 487 28 36, klub@sax-zg.hr, like a ZZ Top clip!QI‑4, Savska 150, tel. (+385-) 099 848 56 63, great escape. The 18 hectares of lush greenery and forest highlights include two works by Ivan Meštrović, Croatia’s
www.sax-zg.hr. Open 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, bikers.beer.factory@gmail.com, www.bikersbeerfactory.hr. was opened to the public in 1794 and was the first of its most famous sculptor, and frescoes by artist Jozo Kljaković.
Sun. NGW Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. kind in this part of Europe. An added bonus, the city zoo QC‑1, Trg svetog Marka 5, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 11.
PT6ENBXW is housed within it. Catch tram N°11 or 12 from Trg bana
Shock Show Industry - D Katran - Trim Josipa Jelačića east (Dubec) to the Bukovačka stop. The Stone Gate (Kamenita vrata)
kabinet 5reković Sheridan’s Pub entrance to Maksimir park is on the north side of the street. This archway was one of the four original entries into the
Located in an alleyway in Zagreb’s business district, this Croatia doesn’t really do pubs. Cafes and bistros abound, but QK‑1/2, Maksimirski perivoj bb, www.zgzoo.com. Zoo walled Gornji grad of the feudal period. In 1731 a terrible
grungy bar offers a variety of special events, including here you get to experience a little bit of the Emerald Isle for is open 09:00 - 19:00 (until April 24th), 09:00 - 20:00 fire destroyed much of the town, and legend has it that a
live concerts, film and dance nights. Shock Show Indus- yourself. This is Croatia’s only true Irish pub, run as it is by a (April - September), ticket office 09:00 - 18:00 (until vision of the Virgin Mary could be seen in the burnt ash
try, formerly Tvornica Katran, is still nicknamed, ‘Katran,’ by man from Offaly. You would not be short something to do of April 24th), 09:00 - 18:30 (April - September). Admission that remained in this entry. It was reconstructed in 1760
locals. It’s not just a regular club, but part of a cultural as- an evening were to drop in, with traditional Irish music regularly 15 - 20kn. and hasn’t been touched since. Today you’ll find ladies
sociation from Bjelovar, which was founded in 1972, with a featured, as well as the ubiquitous pub quiz and open mic ses- praying in the church pews, black-soot ceilings and can-
branch located in Zagreb. To attend an event, don’t forget sions. They’re also the only licenced premises in Zagreb running Mirogoj Cemetery dles glowing as a testament to a people and their faith.
to make a reservation ahead of time.QJ‑3, Radnička cesta a loyalty scheme, and if you’re fond of your pint of plain then Croats in the capital city don’t mess around with the hom- QC‑1, Kamenita bb.
27 (door No 17, 2nd floor left), tel. (+385-) 095 418 83 85, that’s a good thing.QI‑3, Savska 36, tel. (+385-) 095 868 85 53, age they pay to their lost loved ones. A trip to Mirogoj, Za-
industry1972@gmail.com, www.ssi.com.hr. Open Fri, Sat adriansheridan@gmail.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 15:00 - greb’s main cemetery, confirms this immediately. Situated
instagram.com/
23:00 - 06:00. J6ENXW 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. PT6NBXW on the slopes of the Medvednica mountain, it is one of the croatiainyourpocket
42 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket Spring 2016 43
Sightseeing Sightseeing
the next 21 years it’s heavily damaged in various sieges
zagreb’s grič cannon by the Tatars; 1624 - a series of sweeping fires practically
firer destroys it; 1645 - another wave of fires picks up where
the last left off. It’s reconstructed; 1880 - sustains serious
If you find yourself in the Upper Town a little before damage during an earthquake. A 12-year restoration takes
noon, do not be surprised when you see people with place, at which time the neo-Gothic bell towers are raised
fingers in their ears as they begin the countdown; ten, skyward; 1990 - exterior renovations set in motion to bat-
nine, eight, seven, six... Then BOOM! Smoke rises, pi- tle against the effects of time. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 09:00,
geons flock for shelter, people clap and you’re won- 18:00, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:30, 18:00.QC‑1,
dering if this is madness or reality. Fear not, it’s real Kaptol 31, tel. (+385-1) 481 47 27. Open 10:00 -17:00,
and has been every single day for 139 years. It is the Sun 13:00 - 17:00.
Grič Cannon, first fired in 1877 and was used as a sign
for the bell-ringers of the city’s churches to head off Tkalčićeva (Tkalčićeva street)
and do their job. Alem Tutundžić has had this duty for You mustn’t miss this street, for it is zoo-like, exhibiting
eight years and is the fifth person to carry out the job humans in full chill mode. It simultaneously encourages
since it first began; his predecessor did it for thirty-five you to wander, sit, sip, dance, chat, primp, preen, put out
years. The traditional gun powder method is still used the vibe, read, write or sleep. You’ll be amazed by the
and he often wears a light blue uniform as worn by the sheer number of people wandering around here late
first ever Zagreb cannon-firer. into the evening. It provides a unique visual for a city that
you’re starting to understand is very unique too!QC‑1,
Tkalčićeva.
Museums
Archaeological Museum in Zagreb
(Arheološki muzej u Zagrebu)
Arty and ambient, the offering at this place is brilliantly
enhanced by moody sounds and lighting. Philosophical
musings often accompany explanations of the materials,
moving you to wonder what the heck you’re doing on this
earth.QC‑2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, tel. (+385-1)
487 30 00, amz@amz.hr, www.amz.hr. Open 10:00 - Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski Meštrović Atelier - Ivan Meštrović
18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. muzej) Museums (Atelijer Meštrović - Muzeji
Alem Tutundžić - Photo by Višnja Arambašić
Admission 10 - 20kn. High fashion collides with odd impracticality to provide a Ivan Meštrović)
unique look at the people of this country through the ages. Meštrović is arguably Croatia’s most famous sculptor and
Arts and Crafts Museum (Muzej za um- Cool, curious and wacky all at the same time. Those who artist. He actually lived with his family and worked in this
jetnost i obrt) pre-book and request guides for individuals and groups house from 1920’s until 1942 when he left Croatia. And
This museum focuses on the lifestyle of the pampered in English will cost 150kn per tour.QB‑3, Trg Mažuranića it is here where he complited many of his art works and
aristocracy here through the ages. Expect to see amaz- 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 62 20, emz@emz.hr, www.emz.hr. monuments including The Indians - a monument in Chi-
ing furniture, artwork, dinnerware and much more. Very Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. cago.QB‑1, Mletačka 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 23, mim@
ornate and curious. Mobile guides in foreign languages Admission 10 - 15kn. U mestrovic.hr, www.mestrovic.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00,
are available. People with special needs also have guides. Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn.
These services do not cost extra.QB‑3, Trg maršala Tita
10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21 11, muo@muo.hr, www.muo.hr. botaNICAL GARDEN Modern Gallery (Moderna galerija)
Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Ad‑ The Modern Gallery is one of the richest of its kind in all
mission 20 - 30kn. U 01.04 FRIDAY - 01.11 TUESDAY of Croatia; rich in culture that is. Located in the centre of
Photo by Višnja Arambašić Zagreb, in the Vranyczany Palace built during the 1880s, it
PROMENADE CONCERTS
Contemporary Art Museum (Muzej su- The city’s natural oasis reopens in spring after the hosts permanent exhibits featuring more than 750 works
The Cathedral of Assumption of the
vremene umjetnosti) long winter hibernation period where it remains of modern and ultra-modern art from painters, sculptors,
Blessed Virgin Mary (Katedrala Marijina
Founded in 1954, the museum has relocated to a impres- closed to the public, and it opens in style. Amidst as well others who work in new media. From the staircase
Uznesenja)
sive building as you pass the Sava River. The collection the 10,000 different species of plants, the ponds, and grand lobby, to the halls on the first and second floors,
A wonder of neo-Gothic artistry, the impressive and sharp
here allows for the avant-garde to speak for itself with an artifical hills and bridges, concerts on Thursdays visitors are presented with a harmonious image of cohabi-
looking towers stand out from nearly anywhere you are in
excellent range of paintings, sculpture, video art and pho- at 17:30 will be a major attraction with artists of all tation of old and new, yesterday and today, as more than
the entire city. Though it’s in an evidently permanent state
tography. Mobile guides in foreign languages available as kinds booked to perform in what will be a true get- two centuries of Croatian modern art await.QC‑3, Andrije
of reconstruction, it’s undeniably overwhelming and will
well as free Wi-Fi connection.QJ‑4, Avenija Dubrovnik away from the hussle and bussle of the city. Hebranga 1, tel. (+385-1) 604 10 40/(+385-1) 604 10 55,
push you to ponder those larger things we can see you’ve
17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00, msu@msu.hr, www.msu.hr. QB‑3, Trg Marka Marulića 9a, tel. (+385-1) 489 info@moderna-galerija.hr, www.moderna-galerija.hr.
been avoiding. Go ahead and wander inside but don’t for-
Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Tick‑ 80 60, www.hirc.botanic.hr. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon.
get to turn the mobile off. A brief history: 1093 - founded;
ets 15 - 30kn. U Mon, Tue 09:00 - 14:30. Admission free. Admission 30 - 40kn. U
1242 - the initial Romanesque construction is finished. In
gifts
You may meet the Croatian version of the ‘Trotter It is a meat-lovers oasis!QE‑2, Vlaška 78, tel. (+385-1) 457
brothers’ here as this is the city’s largest Sunday flea 20 05, www.kulin-galovic.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat
market. Situated on the outskirts of the city, it is jam 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A
packed with goodies from cars, motor-cycles, clothes,
to thousands of other handy items. You name it, it’s Pinklec Delicija
sure to have it! Bargaining will be fun and do take the Unique, regional flavors fill cured meats, cheeses, olive 1
time to relish some of the authentic local food and oils, truffels are offered along with most any other palatte-
meat dishes on offer! Get in early as merchants leave pleasing product. Delight the senses with some cultural spe- 5
by noon. The quickest way to get to the Fair is to catch lunking and souvenir indulgence.QE‑2, Martićeva 14c, tel.
the bus number 295 at the Zapruđe Station, this line is (+385-1) 457 99 11. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A
available on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays. For
more info visit: www.zet.hr.QK‑5, Sajmišna cesta 8, Shatro Galeria Fashion Boutique DoraQC-1, Kamenita 2, tel. Ulični OrmarQD-2, Nikole Jurišića 16, tel. (+385-1)
Jakuševac. This lovely shop, stocks Croatian-only products - be they (+385-1) 485 17 63, modnisalonDORA@gmail.com, 492 65 00, info@mrav-dizajn.com. Open 10:00 -
picked or made by hand - from the islands of Mljet, Rab, Vis, www.dora-rubic.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00
Ulični Ormar as well as Nin, Buzet, and of course the capital itself. These - 14:00
The English translation means ‘Street Wardrobe’ and products include a wide range of liqueurs, jams from not so
accessories
this treasure of a store holds second hand vintage common fruits such as planika (Irish strawberry), and plavac -
and retro clothes that have stood the test of time. It’s a grape variety also present in wine form on the shelves. A full
purely vintage with some outstanding items up for rundown of everything available would take pages…QC‑2,
VINTAGE
grabs. Situated in a small courtyard, only few minutes Stara Vlaška 7, tel. (+385-1) 562 77 33. Open 09:00 - 21:00.
walking distance from the main square, come and en-
joy the atmosphere, music and authenticity of each
piece.QD‑2, Nikole Jurišića 16, tel. (+385-1) 492 65 Quirky Stores
00, info@mrav-dizajn.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat Glass Art Atelier Staklić - Gabriel Gal-
11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. From 50kn. JA6 lery
Founded in 1984, Glass Art Atelier “Staklić” is led by Academic
Ulični ormar Archives
painter Dominique Jurić. Original Zagreb souvenirs from the 2
Gabriel’s Gallery production are on sale which represents a se- 3
ries of city motifs (Šestine umbrellas, Lotrščak Tower...) made
in glass according to the Tiffany technique. Simply announce Galerija KerubinQC-1, Kamenita 15, tel. (+385-1) 485 StripoviQC-3, Preradovićeva 34, (+385-1) 483 77
yourself earlier by email: staklic@staklic.hr.QE‑1, Voćarska 16 98, galerija-kerubin@net.amis.hr, www.galerijakerubin. 77, prodaja@stripovi.hr, www.stripovi.hr
25, staklic@staklic.hr, www.vitrajidominique.com. Open com.hr. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00 Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00
09:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
Jasmina i lutkice
A beautiful and unique collection of handmade dolls and
Antiques
comics
stuffed animals.QD‑3, Petrinjska 40, tel. (+385-) 098 79 57
73, jasmina.i.lutkice@gmail.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 22:00.
Kloto
Accessorize with handmade designs inspired by Gothic, Lolita
and Pinup.QB‑2, Masarykova 14, tel. (+385-1) 487 26 59,
udrugakloto@gmail.com, www.udrugakloto.hr. Open
10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A
4
5
Jadran
QD‑2, Vlaška 50, tel. (+385-1) 455 37 77, fax (+385-1) 461
21 51, jadran@hup-zagreb.hr, www.hup-zagreb.com.
49 rooms (24 singles €74, 20 doubles €86, 5 triples €98).
Pi JAR6ULGKW hhh
Jägerhorn
QC‑2, Ilica 14, tel. (+385-1) 483 38 77, fax (+385-1) 483
35 73, info@hotel-jagerhorn.hr, www.hotel-jagerhorn.
hr. 18 rooms (3 singles €95 - 119, 13 doubles €115 - 125,
2 apartments €159). Pi JALGBKW hhh
tAX Degenova C-1 Kordunska A-2 Pavla Hatza D-3 Stančićeva E-3 Unska B-4
Demetrova B-1 Koturaška A-4 Pavla Šubića E-3 Starčevićev trg C-4 Varšavska B-2
Dežmanova B-2 Kovačića Ante C-3 Pavlinovićeva A-2 Streljačka B-1 Vinkovićeva C-1
Domagojeva D-4 Kozarčeva A-1 Perkovčeva B-3 Strojarska E-4 Visoka B-1
Strossmayerov trg C-3 Vitezovićeva C-1
VAT in Croatia is generally set at 25% and is due on most Đorđićeva D-2
Dubravkin put B-1
Kotarska C-1
Kralja Držislava D-3
Petrinjska C-2
Petrova E-1 Strossmayerovo šet. B-2 Vladimira Nazora A-1
goods and services. Lower rates of VAT are applicable to Dvoranski prečac C-1 Kralja Zvonimira E-2 Pierottijeva A-3 Svačićev trg C-3 Vlaška D-2
Erdödyeva E-3 Kraljice Jelene E-3 Pod zidom C-2 Švearova E-3 Voćarska cesta E-1
goods such as bread and milk, and the tourism sector. Em- Felbingerove stube C-1 Kranjčevićeva A-4 Posilovićeva E-1 Brezovačkoga B-1 Voćarsko naselje E-1
Tkalčićeva C-1 Vodnikova B-4
ployers are required to report, withhold and pay authorities Florijana Andrašeca A-4
Frane Petrića C-2
Križanićeva D-3
Kršnjavoga A-3
Praška C-2
Preobražanska C-2 Tomašićeva E-2 Vojnovićeva E-2
all taxes and contributions on behalf of employees for their Franje Račkog D-2 Krutićeva E-3 Preradovićeva C-3 Tomićeva B-2
Tratinska A-4
Vončininova D-1
Vramčeva D-1
Frankopanska B-3 Krvavi most C-2 Pr. Gjure Deželića A-2
incomes. Personal income tax on an employee‘s salary is Froudeova B-1 Kumičićeva C-4 Primorska A-2 Trg Ante Starčevića C-4 Vranicanijeva B-1
Trg bana Josipa Jelačića C-2 Vukotinovićeva B-3
determined at the following rates: 12% for a net income up Golubovac B-1
Grič B-2
Kurelčeva D-2
Kuševićeva B-1
Radićeva C-1
Radnička cesta J/K-3, K/L-4 Trg Biskupa J. Langa D-1 Weberova C-1
to 2 200kn, 25% for the difference between net 2 200kn and Grgura Ninskog C-4 Laginjina E-2 Radnički dol A-1 Trg braće Hrv. Zmaja C-1 Zamenhoffova A-1
11 000kn and 40% for a net income higher than 13 200kn.
Thresholds for tax rates are variable, meaning that the law
MREŽA DNEVNIH TRAMVAJSKIH LINIJA
ZAGREBAČKI
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Informacije: 060 100 001*
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Zagreb residents are taxed 18%. 20% of social contribu-
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tions are withheld from the employee‘s gross income and
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Borovje 2 3
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5 SAVIŠĆE
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E S S E N TI A L 17
TRAM stop - one direction
ti m
4 SAVSKI MOST Most mladosti Autobusni terminali
SO os vre
C I TY G U I D E S HORVAĆANSKA BUS terminal
tn u
PREČKO 7
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M m
PO
Naziv ulice
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HORVAĆANSKA
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a
Street name
aj
um uz
ko
ki
in
ed
es
8
vs
tr
ns
Sr
Arena Zagreb
U
6
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Sa
Ve
Tr
AVENIJA 7
ZAPRUĐE
DUBROVNIK 14
14
62 Zagreb In Your Pocket zagreb.inyourpocket.com ROUTES 1, 3 AND 8 DO NOT OPERATE ON SATURDAY, SUNDAY OR PUBLIC HOLIDAYS.
Boris Bućan: Breakfast at Printer’s
April 14th – May 29th 2016
The world would be a more beautiful place if it was
covered with Bućan's posters.
The great world msueums that keep his works know
this: MoMA, Cooper-Hewitt Museum, New York;
Staatliches Museum für Angewandte Kunst, Munich;
Deutches Plakat Museum, Essen; Victoria and Albert
Museum, London, and many others.
Hours: Tue–Sun: 11:00 a.m.–6:00 p.m. / Saturday: 11:00 a.m.–8:00 p.m. / Monday
and holidays: closed