Handicraft: Leathercraft

Author: John Gabrielle D. Basbas

Coordinator: Leonora D. Basbas

Table of Contents:

Lesson 1: Preparation of Tools and Materials for Leathercraft

History and Development of Leathercraft …………………………………………. Page 3

Different Kinds of Leathercraft Projects ……………………………………………. Page 6
Materials in Leathercraft ………………………………………………………………….. Page 7
Basic Tools and Equipment in Leathercraft and Their Uses ………………. Page 10
Procedures and Techniques in Leathercraft ……………………………………… Page 13
Characteristics of High Quality Leathercraft …………………………………….. Page 26
Elements of Art and Principles of Design in Leathercraft ………………….. Page 26
Selecting Quality Supplies and Materials ………………………………………….. Page 31

Learning Outcomes:

L01 Trace the History and Development of Leathercraft

L02 Enumerate Different Kinds of Leathercraft Projects
L03 Select Materials in Leathercraft
L04 Identify Characteristics and Use of Some Leathers
L05 Identify Synthetic Substitute for Leather
L06 Use Basic Tools and Equipment in Leathercraft Making
L07 Follow Procedures and Techniques in Leathercraft Making
L08 Describe the Characteristics of High Quality Leathercraft
L09 Apply the Elements of Art and Principles of Design in Leathercraft
L10 Describe and Select Quality Supplies and Materials
L01: HISTORY AND DEVELOPMENT OF LEATHERCRAFT

In the early times, hunters already wore leather garments fitted with sleeves and trousers. This
only shows that mankind has already been fashioning animal skins into clothing. Aside from clothing,
leather has also been crafted in several ways for many centuries throughout the world like sandals from
Egyptian tombs, leather garments from Scotland, and water and grain containers from the Minoan
Crete. Leather was also used over the centuries for wines, casks, boats, tents, harness, slings, sheaths,
helmets, and shields.

Leather is made from hide or skin of mammals, reptiles, bird or fish. The hides and skins taken
from the animals are initially unattractive, hence the need for processing to achieve attributes of leather
that we know of. In order for these hides and skins to become pliable and resistant to decay, the hides
and skins undergo the following processes:

Step 1: One of the first steps in transforming hide into leather is to cut the hides into manageable sizes.
Workers slit the hide and remove any pieces of fat in preparation for the processing that follows.

Step 2: Hides and skins are salted liberally to prevent bacterial action, which causes deterioration and
putrefaction. Large hides are spread in layers for several days with salt in between each layer. A faster
process used on smaller hides and skin is brine-pickling, an immersion in a brine solution circulated by
pumps and agitators.

Step 3: At the tannery, the hides and skins are trimmed and sorted into batches of the similar size, type,
weight, and thickness. The purpose here is to uniformly produce the desired leather.

Step 4: After trimming and sorting, the hide is immersed in clean water for one night to remove its salt
content. This must be done so that the hide can absorb the dye during tanning. This is followed by
another immersion using a solution composed of lime and enzyme materials, which loosens the excess
hair that are still in the hide.

Step 5: Using a dehairing machine, excess hair form the hide is scraped off. This is a process called
scudding. Scudding allows the pattern of the hide to appear as well as create a smooth surface texture.
Scudding also prepares the hide for tanning.

Step 6: After scudding, a chemical treatment composed of tanning acid is applied to the hide. This
process is called tanning, which allows the hide to absorb the tanning solution. Tannic acid comes from a
plant extract from the bark and wood of several trees such as the South American quebracho, the
Bornean mangrove, the Indian and East Indian gambier, and the North American chestnut, oak, and
hemlock.

One of the traditional methods of tanning is called vegetable tanning. This type of tanning is
mostly used in heavy cattle hides and usually done in a span of a month. Vegetable tanning remained
the most used method until the 19th century in the western world.

Another method is oil tanning. In oil tanning, fish oil is rubbed onto the hide to create a soft and
supple leather. In fact, the Eskimos of Alaska adapted the oil tanning process because of the availability
of fish oil in the area.
 Mineral tanning is another method that was used by the Chinese about 2,000 years ago. Hides
and skins were placed in a vat and soaked in mud and alum combined with salt and allowed to cure for
months. Later, by about the 19th century, chromium salt was discovered, thus replacing alum salt. With
this discovery, the tanning process has been shortened from months to days.

Others tan the hide using a method called chromium tanning with chromium salt that eventually
provides strength and heat resistance to the leather. Chromium tanning is widely used for a variety of
leather types. In this process, the leather becomes softer and supple than the leather subjected to
vegetable tanning.

Step 7: The leather is drained, pressed, and put through splitting machines. Splitting the skin produces
uniform plies of required thickness. Splitting also produces material normally found in suede.

Step 8: After splitting, the hide is subjected to drying and stretching. To avoid shrinkage of the hide,
frames, glass, or metal plates are utilized to stretch the hide. In this process, the hide is flattened
between two glass panels or two metal plates, or stretched out using frames that hold the hide on all its
sides and left to dry. After the hide is dried, a conveyor is used to stretch and dry it further. Several run
through the conveyor is applied on the hide to ensure the desired quality of the leather. Dried leather is
commonly stiff and may be conditioned by spraying water until moist to attain desired flexibility.

Step 9: Various types of finishes are applied to the leather after it is properly stretched and dried. One
process uses fine abrasives to produce a suede finish. Other methods use wax or shellac to create a
semi-polished look to the leather. Another treatment uses pigment, dye, or resin that achieves a smooth
and polished look. Lacquer urethane can also be used if a glossy patent look is desired.

One alternative method to leather that is unique is called boarding. This process involves folding
and hand pressing of the hide using a board to produce texture on the surface. Tiny creases are imposed
on the hide that gives the leather depth in terms of surface quality.

Embossing is also another treatment on the hide that creates a unique textual quality.
Embossing is achieved by hard pressing a pattern or design to the hide. Oftentimes, this method gives
the hide an exotic grain such as that of an ostrich or a reptile.
L02: DIFFERENT KINDS OF LEATHERCRAFT PROJECTS

Source Market Name Uses

1. Cattle Cattle hide; untanned raw hide Shoe uppers and soles, luggage
Calf leather Upholstery, belts, handbags,
shoe uppers
2. Goat and Kid Goatskin and kidskin Shoe uppers, purses, apparel,
gloves
3. Sheep and Lamb Sheepskin, lambskin Shoe uppers, linings, gloves,
apparel, chamois, bookbinding
Shearling (wool is clipped and Coats, boots, slippers
left on the hide)
4. Wild Hog (peccary) and Pigskin Shoes, gloves, wallets, luggages
Domestic Hog
5. Asian Water Buffalo Buffalo skin Shoe uppers and soles,
handbags, luggage, belts
6. Reptile Snakeskin Shoe uppers, handbags
7. Deer Deerskin, buckskin Apparel, gloves, shoes
8. Shark Sharkskin Shoe uppers, small leather goods
9. Horse Horsehide, cordovan Shoe uppers, apparel, baseball
covers
10. Elephant Leather panels, ears and trunks Wallets, pool cues, boots, shoes,
car interiors, jackets

L03: MATERIALS IN LEATHERCRAFT

Animal hide or skin is the single most important material for leather and leathercraft. In the
process discussed, different steps are taken to ensure that the hide or skin of the animal is prepared
properly to become what we know as leather. This process also helps in the malleability of leather in
terms of cutting, folding, shaping, and embossing. Certain cuts or parts of the animal hide or skin works
well with specific leathercraft. Figure 1.1 shows a diagram of a cattle hide showing different cuts of
leather.
L04 : CHARACTERISTICS AND USE OF SOME LEATHERS:

Leathers used for arts and crafts may be used as excellent lining material.

 Kid and calfskin are most durable but expensive but sheepskin is very satisfactory as lining
material and less expensive.
 Skiver material is very suitable for lining of smaller projects
 Calf is of the finest grain and is the best leather for high grade tooled projects. Calfskin weighing
3-4 oz. per sq. foot is an excellent thickness with which to work. Skins are available in sizes 12-14
sq. feet.
 Steerhide (light weight) is ideal for billfolds and other smaller projects. It tools easily and
presents a good pattern because of its crinkle grain finish.
 Alligator or lizard-grain leather is a non-tooling material with handsome appearance – embossed
finish, which is produced during its manufacturing. It is inexpensive and is available in many
colors.
 Kidskin is fine, thin, soft, and good for lining leather projects. It is expensive and durable and
may be used for embellishment. It varies in sizes, 3-5 sq. feet.
 Carving and heavy tooling leathers are usually vegetable tanned; is of natural or russet color.
The dyed leather shows light color after surface treatment and embellishment.
 Strap leather from calf or buffalo skin is the most easily carved. It is also the most beautiful type
of thick leather for belts, brief case, bags, and holster. This is sold by hides, measured in square
foot and its weight is in ounces per sq. foot. The most commonly used strap leather weighs 9-10
oz. Strap hide is 16-21 sq. feet.
 Skirting leather is the heaviest and hardest leather. It is suitable for saddles and bridles. It is
tough and resistant.
 Lacing material usually comes from calf or young goat (kidskin). This may be purchased by yard
or spool.
 Pigskin is usually expensive. It is used for novelty projects, is toolable, and produces interesting
effect in its natural grain.
 Sheepskin is an excellent substitute for expensive tooling leathers. It is excellent for tooling and
dyeing. It is serviceable for lining materials. The skin measures 5-8 sq. feet.
 Suede comes from lamb or sheepskin. It is non tooling leather. It is ideal for small projects. It is
soft and has velvety quality finish. It is available in a variety of colors. It is ideal for good lining.
L05: SYNTHETIC SUBSTITUTE FOR LEATHER

Since the 1950s, plastic materials have been developed that resemble leather in many respect.
However, these plastic materials do not have the pliability of leather, a characteristic which allows the
leather to retain its shape. Neither does it have the ability to “breather.” True leather has microscopic
pores that enable air to pass through and prevent moisture from accumulating. With the prohibitive
cost of leather, these synthetic leather materials are used as substitutes replacing leather in some
projects. Today, they make up sizeable share of the many products in the market sold under the label
“leather goods”. In fact, about 80% of shoe sales, for instance, are made of synthetic leather. Since
synthetic leather is impermeable (that is, it cannot breather), most good quality shoe uppers are still
made of true leather.

L06: BASIC TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT IN LEATHERCRAFT AND THEIR USES

1. Ball-peen hammer – for setting rivets and snaps. Any metal hammer may be substituted.
2. Rawhide mallet – for driving stamping tools. Any good rawhide maul or wooden mallet will
suffice.
3. Thronging punch – to punch holes in equal sizes and equal distances. Available in sizes from
smallest (no.00) to largest (no.10).
4. Oblong punch – to make oblong holes; useful in making slots in belts, and buckles, in sizes from
½ to 1 inch.
5. Steel ruler – to measure straight line markings and layout works. For substitute, use a shop try
square or framing square.
6. Utility knife – an all-around know for cutting belts and straps.
7. Shoe knife – for cutting leather and skiving. Knives of similar shape can be used.
8. Press-stud setter – for setting fastening snap buttons.
9. Edge shaver – for shaving edges of leather to produce a finished edge.
10. Edge beveller – for dressing edges of leather.
11. Safety beveller – for skiving or thinning leather edges.
12. Revolving punch – to punch holes for lacing buckles, snap attachments, and adjustment holes.
13. Swivel knife – for carving leather. Several types of knives are available and all of them work on
swivel principle with interchangeable large and small blades used for various stages of carving
and decorating.
14. Awl – for piercing holes for sewing; as substitute, use an ice pick with an end that is slightly
blunt.
15. Edge slickers – for smoothing the cut edge of leather.
16. Grommet setter – for setting the eyelet in leather to strengthen or protect an opening.
17. Modelling tool – for making patterns on surface.
18. Stitch maker – for marking lines or edges on leather for stitching purposes.
19. Embossing punch – for piercing, cutting, stamping, forming raised work, or ornaments/design.
20. Stitching groover – a tool that forms grooves ready for stitching.
 21. Gouge – for making holes or groove (a long narrow channel).
22. V-gouge – is an adjustable tool used for gouging fold lines and stitch lines.
23. Strap cutter - for cutting leather into straps. This device consists of two graduated crossbars that
slide through a handle. A replaceable blade is fixed between the bars at one end and a
thumbscrew on the handle sets the cutting width.
24. Leather shears - for cutting arts and crafts leather and leather accessories, patterns, designs.
25. Hollow punch – for punching holes for lacing buckles, snap attachments, and adjustments holes.

(The Supplementary Tools or Aids and Stamping Tools were no longer included here)

L07: PROCEDURES AND TECHNIQUES IN LEATHERCRAFT

A. Cutting
a. Cutting Heavy Leather with a Draw-Gauge Knife
b. Cutting Heavy Leather with a Straight Knife
B. Edging
C. Edge Skiving
D. Tooling and Carving
 Preparing Lightweight Arts and Crafts Leather
 Preparing Heavy Leather

Techniques in Tooling and Carving

i. Transferring of Design
ii. Tooling and Carving the Leather
1. Tooling Lightweight Arts and Crafts Leather
a. Outline Tooling
b. Relief Tooling
iii. Carving and Tooling Heavy Leather
1. Carving and Cutting
2. Beveling
3. Shading
4. Backgrounding
5. Camouflaging
6. Other Surface Decorations
7. Final Touching Up
E. Stitching
a. Preparing the Leather for Stitching
b. Marking Stitching Holes
c. Punching the Holes
 Types of Stitching and Thonging Techniques
i. Spring thronging needle and thong
ii. How to fasten thread to a needle
iii. Single running stitch
iv. Double running stitch
v. Backstitch
vi. Single whipstitch
vii. Double whipstitch
viii. Saddle stitch
ix. Locked saddle stitch
F. Gluing

L08: CHARACTERISTICS OF HIGH QUALITY LEATHERCRAFT

Articles made of high quality leather have lustrous and clear-grained surface. They should not
show defects nor have so much finish that the character of the skin is obscured. The higher the quality,
the finer are the wrinkles in the leather when it is bent. The character of the wrinkles defines the
“break” of the leather in trade terms. By rubbing a piece of tissue over the surface, the staying quality of
the color can be tested. Leather garment and gloves are generally made of leather treated to prevent
transfer of color and should be guaranteed to wash and dry to their original size and softness.

Importance of High Quality Leathercraft

One of the oldest materials known to man, leather has many qualities that have made it
practical as well as beautiful. Doubtless primitive man who first tanned animal hides and skins with bark
extracts knew its toughness, warmness, and its resistance to wind. In the early Egyptian times, the art of
leather-making was already well advanced. An outstanding example of this is a cloak of white antelope
leather made in Egypt 4,000 years ago. To date, it is still in excellent condition and is in display at the
Boston Museum of Fine Arts. Tooled booking bindings, wall coverings, and shields made during the
Middle Ages have kept their appearances until today by their present owners despite their existence for
centuries.

History is full of testimonies on the durability and beauty of leather in many articles made by
man which have withstood the test of time. While leather is a variable material, it has become an
expensive material in our country for producing different leathercraft like bags, wallets, belts, brief
cases, luggages, shoes, furniture, and many fashion accessories. One reason is that our country does not
produce leather as it does wood.