TRAVEL

SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 24, 2019 L

TRAVEL

Photo of Gyeongbokgung Palace in Seoul by Joe Sohm Visions of America / UIG via Getty Images

YOUR ASIAN ADVENTURE

Seoul for beginners, Japan for baseball fans, Laos for river cruisers, China for hikers and more. L3-13

DINE & RELAX

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L2 S U NDAY , F E B RUA RY 2 4 , 2 019 L AT I M E S. C O M /T R AV E L

BEFORE YOU GO
NEED TO KNOW FLY GUY

Storms bring snow but

play havoc with roads Delayed? The real wonder
The slopes at Snow Valley ski area in the San Bernar-
dino Mountains are covered in fresh powder, which
makes for an outstanding season but for one thing: The
same storms that brought snow also damaged California
18, cutting off access to the resort. California 18, the most
is that the flight leaves at all
popular route to Big Bear Lake, has been closed from
Green Valley Lake Road to Big Bear Dam since Feb.14 be-
cause of a rock slide and other storm-related damage. By Elliott Hester
A Caltrans update last week said California 18 would
remain closed for at least two weeks while damaged parts Besides death and taxes,
of the road are repaired at an estimated cost of $2.5 mil- add “late flights” to the tru-
lion. isms of life. The first two
California 18 also is one of the ways to get to Snow platitudes usually are attrib-
Summit and Bear Mountain in Big Bear Lake. But Cali- uted to Benjamin Franklin.
fornia 38 through Redlands or California 18 from Vic- You can attribute the last one
torville will get you to those sister resorts. to me.
— Mary Forgione Having worked more than
30 years as a flight attendant,
I’ve endured thousands of

A $32 Golden Gate Bridge fee? hours of flight delays. I’ve

waited for hydraulic leaks to
be repaired and for snow to be
Those who drove a Hertz rental car across the Golden plowed off the runway. I’ve
Gate Bridge and later discovered that the company waited for lightning strikes to
charged them as much as $32 for the pleasure won’t face cease so baggage handlers
that kind of bill anymore after a $3.65-million settlement could resume loading the
with the San Francisco City Attorney’s Office, it an- aircraft without fearing for
nounced last week. their lives. I’ve waited for a
The suit, filed in March 2017, stemmed from the use of captain who showed up late
PlatePass, a device included in some Hertz rental cars because of traffic on Inter-
that allows tolls to be assessed electronically. state 95. I’ve waited for police
Consumers often had sticker shock when they re- to board the aircraft and
turned the car because using one toll road then triggered remove a disruptive passen-
a use fee for each day the car was rented, not just the days ger.
on which a toll road was driven. Service fees were often Like many veteran flight
added. attendants, I’ve experienced
Drivers do not have the option of paying cash on a virtually every type of flight
Golden Gate Bridge crossing. delay. All that waiting has
“Many Hertz customers were unwittingly paying taught me an important
more than quadruple the actual toll just to cross the lesson: Getting flights out on
Golden Gate Bridge once,” City Atty. Dennis Herrera time isn’t easy; it takes some-
said in a statement. thing akin to a miracle.
“The Golden Gate Bridge is an international icon, but In 2018, North America’s
charging someone $32 to cross it is simply wrong. We put largest carriers — Delta,
a stop to that. And because of this case, Hertz has re- Southwest, United and
duced its toll service fee nationwide.” American — posted on-time
Consumers will not receive refunds for the wrongly performance numbers of
assessed and higher fees, said John Cote, communica- 83.08%, 78.20%, 78.06% and
tions director for the City Attorney’s Office. Instead, the 77.65%, respectively, accord-
money will go to “future enforcement,” Cote said in an ing to the OAG Punctuality
email. League report. The numbers
Other terms of the settlement mean that Hertz will aren’t as bad as they seem,
distribute a brochure called “Crossing the Golden Gate considering all the moving
Bridge in a Rented Vehicle.” parts necessary to get flights
Renters also can go to Golden Gate’s toll payment in and out on schedule.
option page. Those who do not use the bridge frequently First and perhaps most
can use a one-time payment plan that allows them to important, the aircraft needs
use a credit card online or by phone or pay cash in to be positioned at the depar-
person. ture gate on time. Many flight
To learn more: bit.ly/goldengateonetimepay departures are predicated on
— Catharine Hamm the arrival of an inbound
GROUNDED when you should be flying? There are many possible reasons why.
aircraft that will then become
your outbound aircraft. If
you’re booked on a 3 p.m.
flight from LAX to Chicago,
for example, your aircraft will
most likely be arriving from
elsewhere.
That inbound plane may
be scheduled to land at 1:30
p.m., just 90 minutes before
your outbound flight is to
depart. If your inbound flight
is late, there’s a good chance
your departure to Chicago
will be delayed accordingly.
Even when an inbound
aircraft lands as scheduled, it
takes a herculean effort from
a variety of airline personnel
to get your flight out on time.
Think about cargo and
checked baggage. Each flight
has tons of it. As soon as the
inbound pulls up to the ar-
rival gate, a team of baggage
handlers descends on the
aircraft like bees on a honey-
comb.
The speed at which the
team moves is directly corre-
lated to the weather. Extreme
cold or heat, rain, snow, ice,
high winds and lightning
strikes (which force the ramp
area to temporarily shut
down) can lengthen loading
times and create flight delays.
As cargo and passenger
bags are offloaded, cabin
service personnel swarm the
aircraft to clean, often start-
ing in the business-class
cabin before main-cabin
passengers have disem-
barked. Cabin service em-
ployees vacuum, remove
trash stuffed in the seat-back
pockets and tossed on the
floor, and clean and restock
the lavatories.
At some point, a catering
truck pulls up to the aircraft.
At least, the catering truck
tries to pull up to the aircraft.
Often, baggage carts and
other equipment block ac-
cess. The catering truck,
packed with meals, snacks
and beverages to be con-
sumed aboard the aircraft,
must wait until baggage
handlers finish unloading.
The clock keeps ticking.
The aircraft must be
fueled. Human waste is re-
moved from the lavatories
using a long hose attached to
the aircraft disposal port and
connected to a waste disposal
truck. The baggage handlers
haul away the inbound cargo
and baggage and return
minutes later with outbound
cargo and baggage.
While this is happening,
the pilots and flight attend-
ants arrive. If one of my flight
attendant colleagues fails to
show up, the crew scheduling
department will summon a
reserve from a pool of stand-
bys waiting in the airport
operations area.
If one of the pilots fails to
make the flight, you can kiss
an on-time departure good-
bye. Most airlines do not
require reserve pilots to serve
on standby at the airport
because the costs would be
too great. If a pilot gets sick
an hour or so before your 3
p.m. flight to Chicago, crew
scheduling will call a replace-
ment pilot who is allowed a
couple hours or more (de-
pending on the airline) to
report.
Meanwhile, the boarding
process begins. It can take 30
to 40 minutes for the 300 or so
passengers to board a Boeing
777-300. If there are seat
assignment issues or a flight
attendant gets bitten by a
passenger’s dog (yes, it has
happened), the flight may be
delayed.
vitapix Getty Images / iStockphoto
One of the most aggravat-
ing delays: a passenger who
checks his or her bag at the
ticket counter and fails to
board the aircraft. Federal
Aviation Administration
security protocols require
airlines to remove checked
baggage, a time-consuming
process. When the captain
announces the reason for the
delay, passengers often glare
at the flight attendants, who
rarely, if ever, are the culprits.
Once boarding is com-
plete, the crew is present and
accounted for and any unac-
companied bags have been
removed, the plane pushes
back from the gate.
End of story? No. Mur-
phy’s Law is always in play.
While taxiing to the run-
way, other things can go
south. Weather may turn
ugly, wreaking havoc on
airline operations. An
aircraft maintenance issue
can force the plane to
return to the gate. Air traffic
control can issue a departure
hold because of traffic con-
gestion. If dispatch fails to
forward weight and balance
numbers (the gross weight of
cargo and the relative posi-
tions at which that cargo is
distributed throughout
the aircraft), the plane will
have to wait on the taxiway
until pilots receive and con-
firm that data.
Considering all the things
that can and do happen to a
commercial flight, it’s no
small feat that any carrier,
never mind North America’s
four largest, takes off or lands
on schedule at least three-
quarters of the time.
And, frustrated fliers, I
feel your pain. After all, I’m
the one you yell at when your
flight gets delayed.

FEEDBACK

Timely advice
from $1998 FOR 2 for calling doc
9 - 24 Day Tours The article “Welcome-
Vietnam & Asia Home Illnesses” [On the
Spot, by Catharine Hamm,
Includes international air, Feb. 17] was informative and
escorted tours, quality helpful. But I would caution
hotels, meals those who become ill to
contact medical help after
three days, not five.
After a South American
cruise, my husband and I
5-Star Trips, 3-Star Prices developed severe intestinal
100% Ethical, No shopping traps problems. Imodium and a
Promo Code: LAT19VT bland diet did not help. We
contacted our physician
after three days.
Tests showed we con-
tracted two forms of E. coli,
and I also had shigella. It
took a long time to recover.
Be careful when eating
and drinking abroad, moni-
tor symptoms carefully
and take action within
three days.
Libby J. Awater
Ventura

::

As I approached my
77th birthday, I interpreted
the double sevens as a hint
to spend it in Vegas, which
I did.
Playing blackjack, video
poker and various slots, I
most likely came into con-
tact with germs that found
me to be a perfect host.
On top of getting sick,
I parted with a large amount
of cash — an ample reason
World Spree Travel to be sick.
1-866-652-5656 Bill Spitalnick
www.worldspree.com Newport Beach
CST2075458-40
L AT I ME S . CO M / T RAVE L
ASIA
TRY WATCHING THE SUN RISE at the Buddhist temple of Borobudur on the island of Java in Indonesia. There are 50 countries’ worth of adventures in Asia.
DRAWN TO THE EAST
Sometimes confounding and often chaotic, Asia challenges but also rewards its visitors
By Susan Spano
When I was a staff writer for the
Los Angeles Times Travel section,
my editors knew of my affection for
Asia and sent me to Vietnam,
Thailand, Malaysia, Indonesia,
Cambodia and China, where I lived
and studied Mandarin for about
six months before the 2008 Beijing
Olympics.
I was as happy as the pearl in an
oyster.
As an adolescent, I was com-
pelled by the notion that another
place could be so utterly different
from life as I knew it then.That
remains a big part of the reason I
love Asia, which is good because I
live here now.
“Here” is Ho Chi Minh City,
where I teach English in a second-
ary school. I live in District 11,
where dirt, noise and crowds mean
I’m not exactly living the dream.
In Ho Chi Minh City, construc-
tion is booming. Every block seems
to have an international chain
store or restaurant, every hand a
mobile phone.
When the school holidays come
around, I reclaim the dream, tak-
ing off for Thailand or Laos or the
beach at Da Nang City.
Asia covers more than 17 million
square miles and has about 4.5
billion people, according to World
Population Review, making it the
world’s largest continent by land
mass and the most populous. It’s
composed of 50 countries, includ-
ing, by most tallies, Russia, Arme-
nia and Kazakhstan.
There are few things you can
say about Asia that hold true for all
its parts.
Deals to be had
But here is one thing these
countries have in common: They
are welcoming increasing numbers
of tourists. China, for instance,
recorded 126.8 million interna-
tional visitor arrivals in 2018, a 12%
increase from 2017. South Korea
saw a 9.6% increase for a total of
30.7 million in the same time pe-
riod, according to the Pacific Asia
Travel Assn.
Low airfares are at least part of
that allure. Last year we saw
round-trip prices from LAX as low
as $548 to Tokyo, $387 to Hong
Kong and $515 to Singapore, ac-
cording to Airfarewatchdog, which
supplies weekly airfare deals to the
L.A. Times Travel section.
Granted, some of those tickets
came with restrictions, and fares,
domestic and international, may
increase this year because of rising
fuel prices, but the careful traveler
can score some good deals.
Moreover, domestic and re-
gional air travel in Asia is cheap,
thanks partly to the emergence of
small budget carriers such as
AirAsia, Jetstar Asia and Nok Air.
It’s not unusual for me to find
round-trip fares from Ho Chi Minh
City to Hanoi for less than $100 on
Vietnam Airlines. That’s about the
same distance from LAX to Los
Cabos, Mexico, for which flights
cost at least double that fare and
sometimes more.
S U NDAY , F E B RUA RY 2 4 , 2 019
Although prices for accommo-
dations, food and entertainment
are climbing, as they are every-
where, parts of Asia remain a
bargain. In Ho Chi Minh City, I can
have noodle soup at a sidewalk
stand for less than $1, indulge in a
60-minute massage for $20, buy
about 7 ounces of the finest Viet-
namese coffee beans for $3 or take
a 45-minute taxi ride from the
airport to downtown for $10.
As leisure travelers, we want to
be careful in our spending of every
dong (Vietnam), kip (Laos), kyat
(Myanmar), baht (Thailand), yuan
(China), won (South Korea), riel
(Cambodia) and ringgit
(Malaysia) because those curren-
cies help fund our memories, the
real treasure of travel.
Unforgettable trips
In my mind’s eye, I can see the
sunrise at the Buddhist temple of
Borobudur in Indonesia, remem-
ber how orange-robed monks
pushed my vehicle out of the mud
in northern Cambodia, recall
L3
Nur Yunianto Getty Images/EyeEm
sipping a martini at the fabled
Peninsula Hotel in Bangkok. I
cruised blissfully on a vintage
French colonial steamer through
Ha Long Bay in Vietnam, and slept
in a hut on the beach on Malaysia’s
minuscule Tioman Island in the
Gulf of Thailand. From the window
of a long-distance train, I saw the
frozen Tibetan Plateau, a singular
vision and experience.
I could go on but instead will
direct you to the pages in this
section, a sort of sampler platter of
ideas for memories of your own: a
beginner’s guide to Seoul, a base-
ball barnstorming trip to Japan, a
deeper look at a Chinese city
known mostly for an amazing
archaeological find.
Too many time zones to con-
sider? Sleep on the way there (or
when you’re dead, as rocker War-
ren Zevon once said). Leave your
comfort zone. Try Asia. It isn’t as
far away from home as you can get,
but sometimes it feels that way.
And that is a very good feeling
indeed.
L4 S U N DAY, FE B RUARY 2 4 , 2 019
JAPAN
IT’S A
BALL TO
CATCH
A GAME
Baseball, America’s pastime, takes on a
different but delicious flavor here. Feel
like a kid again with these fun crowds.
By Gregory Leporati
TOKYO — Another Major
League Baseball season is right
around the corner, and some of us
already are dreading another me-
diocre Angels season or the same
old Dodger dogs.
If you’re looking to rekindle
your passion for MLB, the answer
may be 6,000 miles away in beauti-
ful Japan, where Nippon Profes-
sional Baseball, the country’s
highest level of pro ball, will have
you viewing America’s pastime in
a whole new light.
I set out in July for the Land of
the Rising Sun to see whether I
could cure my baseball blues. NPB
did not disappoint, as the second-
most-competitive league in the
world behind MLB. Nippon base-
ball’s brightest stars, among them
Hideo Nomo and current phenom
Shohei Ohtani, have often shone
in the U.S.
The caliber of play is impres-
sive, but NPB’s unique rituals, en-
thusiastic crowds and flavorful
food make it a must for any sports
fan.
Crosstown rivals
I started my journey in Tokyo,
setting out for Jingu Stadium, less
than half an hour by train from
Shinjuku Station. (English is used
throughout Tokyo’s transit sys-
tem, making travel a breeze.)
The small ballpark, built in
1926, hosted Babe Ruth during his
1934 barnstorming tour and is now
home to the Yakult Swallows, a
lovable squad that plays in the
shadow of its more popular
crosstown rival, the Yomiuri
Giants.
The energy at the stadium was
fantastic from start to finish.
The sold-out crowd cheered
their hearts out, chanting songs
and banging drums in honor of
each batter. Per tradition, the fans
performed the umbrella dance,
raising their umbrellas in unison
while singing an upbeat J-pop
song each time the Swallows
scored.
Perhaps most surprising: Japa-
nese baseball fans did not stare at
their smartphones during the
game or mill about the stadium
looking for distractions. A particu-
larly enthusiastic young boy next
to me remained seated for all nine
innings, cheering, singing and
even offering me a few of his squid
snacks.
There was no booing or yelling
at the umpires — even when a call
was reversed against the home
team — and the crowd roared in
delight when a batter laid down a
perfect sacrifice bunt.
The Big Egg
A few days later, I traveled
across the city to watch the Giants
host the Yokohama DeNa
BayStars at the Tokyo Dome,
which locals call “The Big Egg.”
The stadium is much larger
than Jingu, seating nearly 20,000
more fans, and offers some of the
most bizarre yet enticing food
items I have seen in a ballpark. The
bento boxes and fresh sushi were
delicious, but you’ll want to save
yourself for an outlandish option,
such as a hot dog covered with na-
chos, roast pork, mayo and lemon
curd or tuna mayo, among the
crazy toppings.
Don’t be intimidated: It’s all de-
licious.
When NPB fans are thirsty,
they don’t have to wait long be-
tween drinks. “Beer girls” roam
the stands with kegs strapped to
their backs, eager to dispense
cheap draft beer — or, in some
cases, highballs — to anyone in
need of a refill.
I wondered why MLB hadn’t
thought of this.
As an added bonus, Japan’s
Baseball Hall of Fame and an
L AT I M E S. C O M /T R AV E L
CHINA
RUSSIA
Hokkaido
N. KOREA
Sea of Japan
(East Sea) JAPAN
S. KOREA Honshu
Tokyo
Hiroshima
Osaka
Kyushu Shikoku Pacific Ocean
250 MILES
Sources: Nextzen, OpenStreetMap
Los Angeles Times
amusement park are around the
corner from the Tokyo Dome,
making a Giants game a terrific
way to spend a day.
Bullet train west
No trip to Japan is complete
without a ride on the bullet train,
which whisked me 400 miles
across the countryside to Osaka,
the charming big city known for its
exquisite food, picturesque castles
and, of course, die-hard baseball
fans.
The Hanshin Tigers are the
most popular team in the area,
playing in Koshien Stadium,
about a half-an-hour train ride
from Osaka. The ballpark, built in
1924 and modeled after Wrigley
Field, was visited by the Babe in
’34, and a museum within the sta-
dium commemorates this mo-
ment.
But you’ll quickly forget about
Babe Ruth, and MLB in general,
when you start watching the ball-
game.
Fans wearing tiger-striped fe-
doras will surround you, chowing
down on okonomiyaki (a savory
pancake filled with pork, oysters,
noodles and much more) and
other local delicacies as they cheer
for the home team.
One man in the front row
proudly wore a tiger mask and STRIPED FEDORAS are a common sight at Koshien Stadium near Osaka, where the lively fans root on
danced all nine innings, leading
chants while gyrating wildly. Dur-
ing the seventh-inning stretch,
fans blew up red and yellow bal-
loons, waving them as they sang
an up-tempo fight song.
I was entranced as the crowd
released the balloons, a stream
of yellows and reds winding
through the night sky and, for
a few minutes, I felt like a kid
again.
Historic Hiroshima
I continued my journey west to
the final stop, Hiroshima, a city
steeped in history. The museums
and attractions keep visitors occu-
pied, but locals are focused on
their beloved Hiroshima Toyo
Carp. It’s the only community-
owned team in NPB, and it shows.
You cannot walk more than a few
feet in Hiroshima without seeing
Carp flags, ornaments and street
art. TOKYO DOME concessions include sushi meals and Asahi beer.
The team had to cancel the
homestand because of deadly
flooding that plagued western Hi-
roshima last summer, but I still
visited the Carp’s home — Mazda
“Zoom Zoom” Stadium — and
checked out its team store. I
was particularly amused by the
Carp’s primary logo: a giant C very
similar to that of the Cincinnati
Reds.
Around the horn
I felt like a changed man on my
flight back to the States.
I had visited a baseball wonder-
land, a hardball utopia where rival
fans were fervent yet amicable,
food was fresh and exotic, and
wild, singsong cheers were as
much a spectacle as the game it-
self.
MLB, eat your heart out.
Did Japan completely cure my
baseball malaise?
I was on the road to recovery. HANSHIN Tigers fans inflate balloons in the seventh-inning stretch. WHEN THE YAKULT
 L AT I M ES . C O M / TR AV E L S U N DAY, F E B RUARY 2 4 , 2 019
their Hanshin Tigers, who play in Nippon Professional Baseball’s Central League. The ballpark, which dates to 1924, is modeled after Chicago’s Wrigley Field.
If you go
THE BEST WAY TO TOKYO
From LAX, JAL, American, All
Nippon, Singapore and United
offer nonstop service to Tokyo,
and American, United, Delta,
Asiana, Air Canada and Hawaiian
have connecting service (change
of planes). Restricted round-trip
airfare from $747, including taxes
and fees.
THE BEST WAY TO BUY
BASEBALL TICKETS
Visit JapanBall, japanball.com, a
trustworthy site where you can
buy tickets and have them
delivered to your hotel concierge
or Airbnb. Prices vary but start at
about $17 per ticket. Or use the
site to book a complete Japanese
baseball tour, starting at $1,085
per person (does not include
airfare and most meals). Tickets
are also available at Japanese
convenience stores and at the
stadiums on game day, but go
early because they often sell out.
THE BEST WAY TO TRAVEL
BY BULLET TRAIN
Japan Rail Pass, japan-rail-pass
.com, offers unlimited access to
the Shinkansen bullet train for
seven, 14 or 21 days, starting at
$262 for a seven-day pass.
WHERE TO STAY
Hotel Sunroute Plaza Shinjuku,
2-3-1 Yoyogi, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo;
en.sunrouteplazashinjuku.jp.
Small rooms in the heart of
Shinjuku with easy access to
public transportation. Doubles
from about $147 a night.
Hotel Monterey Osaka, 3-3-45
Umeda, Kita-ku, Osaka, Japan;
SWALLOWS SCORE , their fans wave umbrellas to celebrate at the cozy, classic Jingu Stadium in Tokyo.
L5
Photographs by Gregory Leporati
bit.ly/hotelmontereyosaka. A cozy
European-themed hotel minutes
from local train stations. Doubles
from about $108 a night.
Mitsui Garden Hotel Hiroshima,
9-12 Naka-machi, Naka,
Hiroshima, Japan; bit.ly/
mitsuigardenhiroshima. Elegant
hotel a few blocks from the
A-Bomb Dome and Peace
Memorial Park. Doubles from
about $122.
WHERE TO EAT
Manten Sushi Marunouchi, 2
Chome-6-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda,
Tokyo; manten-sushi.com. An
exquisite, 24-course omakase
sushi dinner reasonably priced at
$53 per person.
Bella Bocca, 1-3-13 Shibata,
Kita-ku, B1 Shibata Building,
Osaka, Japan; bella-bocca.com.
An organic Italian restaurant with
a Japanese twist. Small plates
and entrees $8-$35.
Okonomi-mura, 5-13 Shintenchi,
Naka-ku, Hiroshima Prefecture,
Japan; bit.ly/okonomimura. A
large food court featuring 24
restaurants specializing in
okonomiyaki, a savory pancake.
Each restaurant makes the dish
using its own ingredients,
including mochi cheese, kimchi
and fresh Hiroshima oysters.
Prices start at about $6.
TO LEARN MORE
Japan National Tourism
Organization, www.japan
.travel/en
A Brief History of Japanese
Baseball, bit.ly/japanbaseball
overview
L8 S U NDAY , F E B RUARY 2 4 , 2 019 L AT I M ES . C O M /T R AV E L

VIETNAM

Alamy Stock Photo

THE WORLD’S LONGEST nonstop three-rope cable car runs for nearly five miles high above Phu Quoc, Vietnam. That mark is an official Guinness World Record.

GRACE AND GRIT

Phu Quoc wears its past unabashedly — its scars are part of the island’s magnetism
By Elizabeth Mehren

PHU QUOC, Vietnam — There

are times, as your plane swoops
down over someplace you have
longed to visit, you wonder: Did we
get here just in time, or are we too
late?
Thus it was that we capped a
three-week visit in December to
Vietnam and Cambodia with a stay
on Phu Quoc, a vacation island off
Vietnam’s southwest coast.
The trip had been filled with
nostalgia and harsh collisions with
reality because it was my husband
Fox’s first return to Vietnam since
he was airlifted by helicopter out of
Saigon on April 29, 1975, the final
day of what is known here as the
American War.
Ambivalence and a closet full of
ghosts from that past had kept him
from returning until, one day, he
said, if not now, when?
Phu Quoc — pronounced “foo
wok” — was planned as the dessert
course of a carefully balanced vaca-
tion meal.
We had history, starting with Vi-
etnam’s long background of co-
lonization and then, of course, the
war. We had politics, including
questions about the state of the
U.S. government, as well as trou-
bling discussions about the dram-
atic effects of climate change in
Southeast Asia.
We had religion in the form of
visits to temples and a private
blessing by a young Buddhist AsianDream Getty Images
monk. We had art, architecture TOURISTS AND LOCALS alike can enjoy fresh seafood at the Duong Dong night market on Phu Quoc Island in southern Vietnam.
and local culture.
We had endless repasts of suc- snorkeling on an island the war’s hopped over from the mainland for prisoners, Cay Dua became South
CHINA 200 MILES
culent vegetables and bountiful battles seemed to have overlooked. long weekends. Vietnam’s largest incarceration
breakfasts that began with rich Vi- True enough, Phu Quoc was the The biggest influx of tourists in center. During the war, it held as
etnamese coffee. We even had site of an infamous prison that recent years has come from Russia. many as 40,000 North Vietnamese
sports when the whole country — Hanoi housed the largest number of pris- Vodka, along with copious displays prisoners.
or so it seemed — took to the oners during the war, but what my of sunblock, enjoyed brisk sales at The building became a national
streets to celebrate Vietnam’s vic- husband remembered were miles the local convenience marts. historic monument in 1993 and is
LAOS
tory over Malaysia in the ASEAN of silken sand, clear waters and As a genuine tropical island now a museum, offering testimony
Football Federation champi- vast coral reefs where so many where the sub-equatorial climate to the “indomitable struggle of rev-
onship. tropical fish fed that he practically averages 82 degrees, Phu Quoc olutionary soldiers” during the
South had to ask some of them to move on beckons visitors to mellow out. But war.
Parks and prison China so he could view the rest of the mar- just in case the compulsive tourist Mention Phu Quoc elsewhere in
Sea
So now it was time for fun. Dur- THAILAND
ine mob. gets bored, there are sights to see. Vietnam, and before anyone com-
ing the war, my husband — a jour- Other Vietnam War-era trav- Much of the island’s interior is a ments on its unusual geological
nalist who had spent three years in elers had warned us that Phu Quoc mountainous national park, ideal configuration — Phu Quoc is an ar-
Vietnam — had established a VIETNAM had changed. That much was obvi- for hardy hikers who don’t mind chipelago of 28 islands, most unin-
friendship/source relationship ous as the 50-minute flight from Ho the heat. At Bai Dai, on the island’s habited — the first thing anyone is
with a member of the South Viet- CAMBODIA Chi Minh City circled over con- northwest corner, the Vinpearl Sa- likely to say is fish sauce.
namese Cabinet. struction cranes and hotels fari Park promotes itself as Viet- On Phu Quoc, 85 producers
PHU QUOC
The Cabinet minister’s access ISLAND & wedged close to one another in the nam’s largest zoological park, with manufacture this vital component
PHU QUOC Ho Chi
to a military plane made it easy for ARCHIPELAGO Minh City
fashion of Miami Beach and Wai- 2,000 wild animals and many of Vietnamese cooking. High in
him to pursue his passions for kiki. species of indigenous fauna. protein, salty and pungent to all
swimming and deep-sea diving. Gulf of Nonstop flights to Phu Quoc More sobering is the Cay Dua but the most chronically congested
Thailand
He would sometimes round up from London’s Gatwick Airport (or Coconut Tree) Prison at the is- nasal passages, fish sauce — or
his favorite U.S. journalists and Sources: Nextzen, OpenStreetMap deposited scores of sun-starved land’s south end. Built by French nuoc mam — is made by layering
spirit them off for a day of diving or Los Angeles Times Brits, and Vietnamese families colonialists to house Vietnamese [See Vietnam, L9]
L AT I ME S . CO M / T RAVE L S U N DAY, F E B RUARY 2 4 , 2 019 L9

VIETNAM

HISTORY AND TODAY ENTWINE

[Vietnam, from L8]
fish and sea salt in an oxygen-free
container. Fermentation can take
up to two years.
Tours are available at many of
Phu Quoc’s fish sauce factories.
Note that many airlines forbid pas-
sengers to bring fish sauce on
board, lest the bottle break and
sicken the entire plane with its
fierce aroma.

Around the reefs

But neither fish sauce nor the
water park had brought us to Phu
Quoc. My husband, buoyed by his
memories of spectacular snorkel-
ing, had signed up for an ambitious
outing to one of the island’s many
reefs.
Luxury hotels such as La
Veranda, where we stayed, will ar-
range private expeditions for a not-
small fortune. Instead, my hus-
band chose an established diving
company.
At 7:30 in the morning, he
waited at the top of the small road
that led to our beachfront hotel,
armed with snorkeling gear and a
head full of memories.
What he found was that climate
change had killed the coral. With
nothing to feed on, the fish had
gone elsewhere. His total viewing
score for the day was two clownfish
— lovely, he said, but lonely with
only the two of them.
Climate change is not men-
tioned in the many brochures de-
scribing Phu Quoc. For my hus- Elizabeth Mehren
band, it was evidence of the rapid AT THE BEACH in Phu Quoc, Vietnam, visitors can receive massages. The tropical island beckons guests to hang out and chill out.
changes that have overtaken Viet-
nam since the war. Further proof:
The site of his newspaper’s office
during the war in Ho Chi Minh City If you go
is now a Versace boutique. Traffic
abounds, and suburban sprawl has
gobbled up much of the unoccu- THE BEST WAY TO PHU to the 70 rooms. Doubles from $265 Doubles from $195 a night. in the garden of the Hieu family
QUOC ISLAND, VIETNAM a night. home. Main dishes about $7-$15.
pied land outside the major cities.
Far from capitalistic enemies of From LAX, Asiana, United, JAL, Phu Quoc Night Market, Vo Thi
Salinda Resort Phu Quoc Island, WHERE TO EAT
the communist state, Americans Korean and Air China offer Sau St., Duong Dong, Phu Quoc
Cua Lap Hamlet, Duong To Pepper Tree Restaurant, La
connecting service (change of Island, Vietnam; phuquocisland
are usually welcomed as cash cows Commune, Phu Quoc Island, Veranda Hotel (see above). Dine
planes) to Phu Quoc. Restricted guide.com. Almost 100 stalls
who will enhance the country’s Vietnam; salindaresort on a plantation-style balcony
round-trip fares from $880, make this market a street food
economy and bolster its global .com. Boutique hotel with 121 overlooking the sea. The Pepper
including taxes and fees. lover’s Garden of Eden.
status. rooms, suites and villas. Doubles in Tree also sometimes hosts a
As we sat on the beach on our fi- high season from $428 a night. spectacular beachfront barbecue.
nal day in Phu Quoc, we heard a Main dishes $20-$65.
WHERE TO STAY Peppercorn Beach, Ganh Dau, Phu TO LEARN MORE
Babel of languages spoken around La Veranda Resort, Tran Hung Quoc Island, Vietnam; peppercorn Hieu’s Family Restaurant, 103
us, a firm indication of just how Phu Quoc Island Guide,
Dao St., Ward 7, Duong Dong beach.com. A British Vietnamese/ Tran Hung Dao St., Phu Quoc
global this once-obscure destina- phuquocislandguide
Town, Phu Quoc Island, Vietnam; Australian couple quit their day jobs Island, Vietnam; facebook.com/
tion has become. Had we gotten .com
laverandraresorts.com. This in London, and the result of their hieufamily. Stuffed squid and
here just in time, or were we too beachfront hotel, built in the style wanderlust was this 5-year-old, freshly caught fish steamed in Vietnam Guide,
late? of a 1920s French Colonial manor, 30-room beachfront hotel with a lemon grass are among the vietnam-guide/phu-quoc
Perhaps a little of both. But did has labyrinthine gardens leading dormitory-style suite for families. specialties of this casual spot -island
it matter?
L10 S U NDAY , F E B RUA RY 2 4 , 2 019 L AT I ME S . CO M / T R AV E L

LAOS

Mekong Cruises Susan Spano

Mekong Cruises

25 MILES
LAOS

Pakxé
THAILAND
Champasak

Mekong
River

Si Phan Don
CAMBODIA
@latimestravel
CHINA

Hanoi
VIETNAM
LAOS

Vientiane

THAILAND

100 MILES

CAMBODIA
Sources: Nextzen, OpenStreetMap
Mekong Cruises Susan Spano Los Angeles Times

VAT PHOU , clockwise from top left, is a ruined Khmer Hindu temple in southern Laos; children in a fishing village near the Mekong; a floating hotel, also named Vat
Phou, cruises the Mekong; a stonemason in Champasak town makes Buddha figurines and Khmer-style sculpture; Khong Pha Pheng is a waterfall in southern Laos.

ON THE LAZY RIVER

Staying beside and cruising the Mekong in Laos is a dreamy diversion from modernity
By Susan Spano
As most of Southeast Asia rushes into the future — new
development is seemingly everywhere — Laos continues to
feel quiet, dreamy, old-fashioned.
No place seems more so than southern Laos along the
wide, slow Mekong River, where time seems to stand still.
You’ll see Khmer-era ruins, glittering gold Buddhist tem-
ples, crumbling French Colonial mansions, myriad islands,
emerald rice paddies, and perhaps sample fish curry and
coconut ice cream.
I needed a break from living in hot, congested Ho Chi
Minh City in neighboring Vietnam, so I spent a week during
the Lunar New Year holiday in Laos. I was suffering from
what a doctor had diagnosed as an allergy to HCMC pollu-
tion. He said Laos would be just the ticket.
It took about an hour to fly to the city of Pakxe, or Pakse,
as it’s sometimes spelled, in Laos from HCMC and cost
about $100 each way. At the Pakxe airport, I was picked up
by the River Resort, an enchanting small hotel on the banks
of the Mekong River just north of Champasak town.
My second-floor room had a wrap-around terrace over-
looking the river, which is why I eagerly awakened for sun-
rise, a gorgeous, milky-pink affair reflected in the water. I
also liked to watch the river from the resort’s swimming
pools and terrace restaurant. Actually, I liked to watch the
river from almost anywhere.
The River Resort also booked my two-night cruise on the
handsome old Vat Phou, which took me sightseeing farther
down the river toward the 4,000 Islands region at the Laos-
Cambodia border. I joined about 20 other tourists, most of
them French, German and American, installed in a snug
wooden cabin with a window and private bath.
Together with five nights at the hotel (including two spa
services, a sunset cruise and free use of bicycles) the trip
cost about $2,000. Well worth it, I’d say.
Info: The River Resort, theriverresortlaos.com; Mekong
Cruises, mekong-cruises.com
L12 S U N DAY, FE B RUARY 2 4, 2 019
CHINA
BIG WILD GOOSE PAGODA stands tall in an older section of Xian, China, and dates to 652. The fashionable newer areas of what was once Chinese emperors’ seat of power
HISTORIC CAPITAL
Xian is about so much more than just those famous terra-cotta warriors. Its rich history
By David Swanson
XIAN, China — On a rainy
morning, pedestrians and cars
darted in and out as a bus began
climbing a switchbacking road into
a steep, narrow canyon that would
take us to the base of Mt. Hua, or
Hua Shan, as it is known here.
The no-nonsense driver didn’t
hesitate to lean on the horn at the
slightest provocation, his lack of
patience suggesting he might not
be the person you want at the
wheel on a mountain road where
the wet asphalt abruptly slips into
a ravine.
As we ascended into the clouds,
it appeared that Mother Nature
might be just as cranky as the
driver. I checked the trail map I had
just picked up at a gift shop, look-
ing for the Plank Walk, my hoped-
for destination and the reason for
my return here.
By the time we reached a cable
car station for the ride to the top,
the rocky walls surrounding the
building wore a dusting of snow,
Hua Shan’s first of the season.
Silly Southern Californian that
I am, I was not dressed for this. Was
my trip to Xian, to tackle what is
sometimes called the most danger-
ous hike in the world, a pointless
exercise?
Warriors — and beyond
On my first trip to Xian (shee-
ahn) in 2002, I came to see what ev-
eryone comes here to see: the terra-
cotta warriors, an army of life-size
clay figures standing guard at the
tomb of the first emperor of the Qin
Dynasty.
But like many group tours, the
overall itinerary was perfunctory
— a checklist of must-sees that fre-
quently made me want context
and unheralded discoveries. I left
wondering whether there was
more to see.
“Compared with Beijing and
Shanghai, Xian has a very long his-
tory,” said Li Lei, a Beijing-based
news reporter at Global Times and
a friend. Li was raised in Xian, and
she returns often to visit family. “It
is said that China’s roots are also in
Xian. Chinese culture and cultiva-
tion started there, and Xian pre-
serves lots of its historic sites very
well.”
L AT I M E S. C O M /T R AV E L
In November, I took advantage
of rock-bottom airfares to China,
with a goal to see more of Xian —
and to try that Plank Walk.
The weather was mild when I
arrived, ideal for surveying Xian
from the beautifully restored City
Wall, a 40-foot-tall edifice that
boxes the central city into a rectan-
gle.
I rented a serviceable bike for a
few dollars and spent more than an
hour circumnavigating the nearly
flat nine-mile loop, eye-to-eye with
rooftops on one side and modern
towers on the other.
The dynastic history of Xian
started a few miles northwest of
the City Wall, I learned from my
Lonely Planet guidebook. Here, 23
centuries ago, Emperor Qin Shi
Huang was the first to unify what
would become modern China.
Xian was the country’s ruling capi-
tal until the 10th century.
During that time, the Big Wild
Goose Pagoda was built a couple of
miles outside the wall, an elegant
seven-story monument that leans
perceptibly away from Xian’s fash-
ionable new sections. The pagoda,
which dates to 652, was the tallest
building in central China for more
than 12 centuries. Today, monks EMPEROR QIN SHI HUANG unified what would become modern China 23 centuries ago and ruled
manage the serene site.
From the top of the pagoda, Xi- This pedestrian marketplace is extend beneath a Quonset hut-like
Yellow
an’s sprawl reveals itself. My view of River lined with restaurants and vendors structure that appeared to be big-
this urban area of 8.6 million was selling a mouthwatering array of ger than a football field. Archaeo-
muted — smog in Xian can be HUA snacks — skewers of lamb cooked logical work continues, but only
SHAN
breathtaking at times — but it was Xian MUSEUM over coals; chewy persimmon at night to minimize dust for visi-
OF THE
worth the hike. TERRRACOTTA doughnuts; crunchy Arabic bread tors.
ARMY
I spent the late afternoon riding 20 MILES with a generous helping of sesame It is said that Emperor Qin
Xian’s modern subway to other seeds; and roujiamo, braised beef wanted the warriors to guard him
sites worth seeing: the Bell Tower brisket stuffed into a sandwich and in the afterlife, but they mostly
and the Drum Tower (built about RUSSIA lathered with chile paste. have served as ambassadors for
1380 during the Ming Dynasty), The Muslim Quarter is undeni- China, touring the world’s muse-
adjacent monuments of the same KAZAK. MONGOLIA ably touristy. But the smells, the ums and helping put a face on the
time period at the center of the old energy and the friendly vibe were country. Swarms of visitors are not
city. Originally, the bell would Bejing reason enough for a return visit. uncommon. (Tip: Visit in the late
sound at the start of each day, afternoon after the hordes have
CHINA
and the drum was pounded at the left.)
end. Emperor’s guards “There are two things first-time
The bronze bell is long gone, but INDIA The Museum of the Terracotta visitors to China need to experi-
the still-impressive Bell Tower Army, 25 miles east of the city, was ence,” my friend Li told me. “One is
Sources: Nextzen, OpenStreetMap
rises at the center of a traffic circle also worth a return visit. The fig- history. The other is the modern
Los Angeles Times
amid a snarl of vehicles. ures are part of the mausoleum of side of China. Xian offers both.”
A block away, the Drum Tower Emperor Qin, China’s first ruler, Xian fits well into President Xi
is a kind of gateway to the Muslim mosques serve a community of who ascended the throne at age 13 Jinping’s economic plans for
Quarter. 50,000 Muslims; among these is the in 246 B.C. China.
Xian was the first city in China beautiful Great Mosque, the oldest A series of pits contains as A massive Belt and Road initia-
where Islam took hold about 1,400 in China. many as 8,000 of the clay figures — tive underway is designed to con-
years ago, funneled here by way of It was here that Xian’s Silk the first was unearthed in 1974 — nect China with other parts of
the Silk Road along with other cul- Road influences started to jell for and no two are alike. The main pits Asia, Europe and Africa, that will
tures and religions. Half a dozen me. are still only partly excavated and create infrastructure for a trade
L AT I ME S . CO M / T RAVE L
ASIA
OUT FROM THE SHADOWS
A Beijing hotel teaches
its guests about an ancient
Chinese form of puppetry
to help keep the art alive.
By Anna Mindess
BEIJING — My brush was tiny,
more like something you’d use for
nail polish. That was apt because I
was struggling to paint the toenails
of my dragon shadow puppet.
Dipping the silken brush into
royal-blue ink, I tried to give its
curving talons a proper pedicure.
Mao Zhongbo, our soft-spoken
teacher, noticed my struggle and
showed me how to keep my brush
from becoming overloaded with
pigment. It was an unexpected
personal touch from the resident
master at a Beijing hotel that
strives to save the dying art of Chi-
nese shadow puppet theater.
Shichahai Shadow Art Per-
formance Hotel is a step back in
time. Surrounded by a forest of
ultramodern skyscrapers, this lit-
tle inn is in a hutong, a neighbor-
hood formed by a maze of alleys.
Once you open the inn’s massive
wooden doors, studded with deco-
rative cast iron and heavy ring
knockers, you enter a calm space
with clean lines that direct your
gaze to the framed shadow puppet
art that decorates the walls. The
mission here is clear: to educate
guests about a vanishing part of
Chinese culture before it’s too late.
Preserving an art form
UNESCO’s list of Intangible
Cultural Heritage describes Chi-
nese shadow puppetry as a “tradi-
tional performance art transmit-
ted from generation to genera-
tion.”
Until now, it has been difficult
for foreigners to understand be-
cause its dialogue was delivered
through an ancient form of Chi-
nese operatic singing. “Even Chi-
nese audiences would not under-
stand the dialogue without subti-
tles,” said Dave Bae, the hotel man-
ager. “Now that the special kind of
singing traditionally used is dying
out.”
Those who are most skilled at
this puppet artistry are in their 70s
and 80s, Bae said, and interest is
waning.
“Since Chinese people aren’t
that interested anymore, we open
it up to foreign guests. We welcome
people from all over America, Eu-
rope and Asia.”
This is why I visited last winter.
As a longtime theater lover, I
hoped to get a behind-the-scenes
peek into a completely different
performing art.
The 25-room inn provides Eng-
lish interpreters who help make
the cultural offerings accessible.
These include performances in the
intimate puppet theater at the
center of the hotel and several
classes a week taught by Mao.
One night, I watched Mao and
several other hotel employees per-
form “Turtle and Crane,” the clas-
sic in which a crane helps a frog
cross a river. When a sneaky turtle
tries to bite the frog, the crane
grabs the turtle and flings it into
the water. The animals’ supple
movements made me forget that
puppeteers controlled them.
Afterward, I joined other spec-
OPEN MIND,
NOT WALLET
Backpacking in Vietnam,
Cambodia, Laos, Thailand
and Indonesia isn’t rough.
Don’t let age discourage.
By Sue Sanders
For years, I thought interna-
tional travel was an out-of-reach
luxury, like owning cashmere long
johns: something I coveted but
couldn’t justify wasting money on.
Then my husband, Jeff, and I up-
dated our passports, dug out our
old backpacks and headed to Cam-
bodia and Vietnam using 20 years’
worth of credit card points.
That trip was our gateway drug.
We have been back to Asia many
times. Although we’re decades
from traditional backpacker age,
we’re convinced it’s the best way to
see that region. Besides, why
should younger backpackers have
all the fun? With an open mind and
semi-closed wallet, traveling in
Southeast Asia can be comfortable
— and an adventure for those of us
with more than a few gray hairs.
Jeff and I encountered few
Americans, but we met dozens of
Australians and Europeans in
their 50s, 60s and 70s who were
traveling the way we were. If you
haven’t done it, you may think
budget travel means sleeping next
SHADOW PUPPETRY has traditionally been in an ancient form of Chinese operatic singing.
SHOWS are presented at the puppet theater inside the Shichahai Shadow Art Performance Hotel.
If you go
THE BEST WAY TO BEIJING
From LAX, Air China and
American offer nonstop service to
Beijing, and Air Canada, All
Nippon, American, China
Eastern, China Southern, China,
Delta, Hong Kong, JAL and
United offer connecting service
(change of planes). Restricted
round-trip fares from $484,
including all taxes and fees.
TELEPHONES
To call the numbers below from
the United States, dial 011 (the
international calling code), 86
(the country code for China) and
to gap-year kids. This wasn’t the
case. We slept comfortably and en-
joyed inexpensive transportation,
meals and culture.
Getting around is usually easy.
We often bought bus and train tick-
ets at the stations, where destina-
tions usually are marked in English
as well as the language of the coun-
try. Occasionally, we spent a little
more and obtained tickets online
or through a travel agent because
stations in large urban areas could
be overwhelming.
An eight-hour train trip from
Ninh Binh to Dong Hoi was one of
the highlights of a Vietnam trip,
thanks to karst mountains and rice
paddies, all admired from our com-
fortable assigned seats.
We loved getting to meet our fel-
low passengers. Men seemed espe-
cially interested in practicing their
English and taking photos with
Jeff.
Sometimes we hired a car to get
from city to city. That cost about
what we might pay for a dinner for
two at home. For instance, a trip
from Dong Hoi to Hue in Vietnam,
a 105-mile excursion that included
stops to visit the Vinh Moc tunnels
in Quang Tri, cost $70.
Carrying a backpack made tak-
ing any transportation — buses,
cars, boats, trains and once, a giant
tricycle — a breeze. We pack only a
week’s worth of clothing because
laundry is generally a bargain. In
the local number.
WHERE TO STAY
Shichahai Shadow Art
Performance Hotel, 24 Songshujie
St., ShiChaHai, Xicheng Qu,
Beijing; 10-8328-7847, bit.ly/
shadowpuppethotel. Doubles from
$110, breakfast included.
WHERE TO EAT
KaoRouJi Beijing style BBQ, 14
Qian Hai Dong Yan, Beijing;
10-6404-2554. On Houhai Lake in
central Beijing. Lamb is a specialty.
Main dishes $13-$30
TRAIN TRAVEL in Southeast Asia, here in Cambodia, is inexpensive but doesn’t feel like it.
the morning, we dropped off dirty
clothes next to our Bangkok hotel
and they were washed and ironed
by evening. Total bill: less than $5.
Our hotel in Siem Reap, Cambo-
dia, washed an outfit for free each
night we stayed.
When an acquaintance said she
could never afford to travel exten-
sively, I recalled she had traveled to
a Disney World resort and to New
York City. But it’s cheaper to fly to
many Asian destinations and trav-
el for three weeks, especially during
the off-season, than it is to stay for
a week at one of the less-expensive
Disney resorts or a New York City
budget hotel.
That’s not to say these aren’t
terrific destinations — they’re just
different types of trips.
Our Southeast Asian destina-
tions offered us far more bang for
our baht. For example, we spent
S U NDAY , F E B RUARY 2 4 , 2 019
Max Shen Getty Images
Anna Mindess
Hongyuan Nanmen Shuan Rou Hot
Pot No. 1, Nanguanmen Alley,
Xicheng District, Beijing;
10-8233-7033. Traditional
coal-fired bronze pots to cook your
own meat and vegetables. From
about $20.
Quanjude Peking Roast Duck, 57
Dianmen West Main St,, Xicheng
District, Beijing; 10-6612-8557;
bit.ly/quanjudeBeijing. A150-year
history serving Peking duck. Main
dishes $16-$44
TO LEARN MORE
China National Tourist Office,
cnto.org
four nights at a comfortable spa
outside Chiang Mai, Thailand, for
$15 a night. We found it through
Agoda, an online booking site in
Asia.
In Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos
and Thailand, we spent $20 to $50 a
night for a clean air-conditioned
room with a private bathroom. In
Ubud, Bali, in the off-season, we
found a beautiful room with a pool
for $30 a night. Other places in In-
donesia were less expensive. In
Sumatra, we spent $11 for a room
overlooking Lake Toba, in the cal-
dera of a supervolcano.
Food is one of the many pleas-
ures of traveling in this region. We
ate at basic restaurants, where we
enjoyed noodles such as mie
goreng and rice dishes such as
khao man gai for about a dollar.
Although language was occa-
sionally an issue, eating well was
L11
tators behind the translucent
screen and, with Mao’s guidance,
tried my hand at manipulating the
many rods needed to make each
puppet glide effortlessly. My awk-
ward attempts to operate several
sticks at once showed why it takes
years to master something that
looks deceptively simple.
I was more successful in the
puppet painting class, my favorite
activity. It required patience and
concentration, like a moving medi-
tation.
My jointed dragon, made of vel-
lum-like leather and lacy filigree,
was a challenge to paint. I modeled
it after one in various shades of
blue that Mao showed us at the be-
ginning of class. That meant I
needed to add just the right
amount of water to my pot of blue
ink to differentiate the colors of its
scales, nostrils and claws.
Mine wasn’t quite as subtly
shaded as the model I worked
from, but it did have, to my eye, an
otherworldly charm.
Mao attached its rods. Holding
it gave me a visceral sense of con-
nection to a timeless art form.
Roadshow roots
No one knows for sure how
shadow puppetry started thou-
sands of years ago, but in China it
has served many purposes. In its
heyday, it was the most popular
form of entertainment, thanks to
its simplicity and portability. Trav-
eling troupes of musicians and
puppeteers set up temporary
stages in villages across the coun-
try to entertain the people, provid-
ing a sort of precursor to movies.
Shadow puppet plays were an
essential part of birthdays, wed-
dings and funerals. Although
much of it was aimed at the mas-
ses, members of nobility enjoyed it
too, but they traveled with person-
al shadow puppet theater compa-
nies to keep entertained.
Mao was 18 when he saw his first
shadow play — it happened to be
“Turtle and Crane” — in northern
China. He found it “vivid and alive,”
he said. The traveling company
was recruiting new members and
accepted him.
He studied for three years with
a master of the art, learning the
skills that make the motions look
fluid. “The right hand controls the
puppet’s arm and leg,” he said,
“your left hand does the head.
“But cutting out the puppet fig-
ures is the real art,” he said, his face
lighting up.
Mao worked with various
troupes before joining the Shicha-
hai Hotel when it opened in 2011. I
asked him whether anyone could
learn to be a shadow puppet per-
former. He paused, then answered,
“Like ballet, some have a talent for
this and some don’t. Making a pup-
pet seem real comes from the
hands, the heart and the brain.”
It also takes a passion.
“Nowadays, the younger gener-
ation has movies, TV, video
games,” Bae said. “They are less in-
terested in keeping this art alive.”
At the end of my stay, I went to
the lobby to retrieve my dragon
shadow puppet. It was in a padded
red satin envelope decorated with
brocade dragons for the journey
home. I noticed Mao teaching an-
other class, speaking in animated
Chinese to a group of local young-
sters, hoping, perhaps, to inspire a
new generation of masters.
Tanes Ngamsom Getty Images/iStockphoto
not. Smaller places typically sell
only a few items, so pointing is easy,
and larger restaurants often have
photo-driven menus. I never got
sick from street food but I did after
a buffet in a fancy Ho Chi Minh City
hotel. (We travel with antibiotics.)
We dine well and safely for about
$10 or less a night for two.
Cultural events are usually rea-
sonable. Some treasures are pricey
(Angkor Wat in Cambodia costs
about $40 a person for a one-day
admission), but a night of Khmer
dance from Cambodian Living
Arts, an organization dedicated to
reviving dance, cost $15 per person.
Admission to the War Remnants
Museum in Ho Chi Minh City was
less than $2.
Traveling is a luxury but in
many places in Southeast Asia it’s
an affordable luxury. We’re already
saving for our next trip.
 L AT I M ES . C O M / TR AV E L
tower in the distance. The city is in the center of the nation, a natural link in developing infrastructure between China’s larger cities and international trade partners.
AND MODERN HUB
mixes with contemporary cultural appeal and the natural attraction of Mt. Hua’s peaks
from Xian. His tomb here is guarded by thousands of terra-cotta warriors that were rediscovered in 1974.
network linking two-thirds of the
world’s population. Xian, in the
center of the country, is a natural
hub; most of China’s biggest cities
sit to the east.
That evening, I explored Qu-
jiang New District, an upscale de-
velopment just southeast of the
central city. Here, a royal garden
dating to the Tang Dynasty (618-
907) is surrounded by swank mod-
ern architecture. The development
would not be out of place in the U.S.
There was a gorgeous Star-
bucks complete with a soaring ceil-
ing and acres of wood finishing. At
the Xian Brewery, I sipped a citrus
IPA and found it a refreshing
change from the usual watery, low-
alcohol beers served in China.
I wandered into the W Hotel,
which opened in August. Unlike
other hipster W hotels, which are
not my scene, this one was seduc-
tive and subdued, and it oozed
cool, starting with a voluptuous
light installation that hovered over
the lobby atrium like a giant puls-
ing spaceship.
Hiking on Hua Shan
Hua Shan, about 75 miles east
of Xian, is revered as one of the five
great mountains of China. I
learned about the Plank Walk on
my previous visit, when I’d ridden a
cable car to a crest near the sum-
mits — “summits” plural because
Hua Shan is five distinct granite
peaks surrounding a vast dome
structure, much of which was vis-
ible on that trip.
An extensive network of trails
laced the peaks, some cut directly
into the stone at angles that would
give a Yosemite ranger pause. Peo-
ple of all ages clambered along the
cliffs, clinging to heavy metal
chains that lined the riskier sec-
tions.
The Plank Walk was a side trip
near the South Peak. Photos
showed a board walkway attached
to a dead-vertical cliff face. Hikers
would wear a harness and clip onto
a cable strung along the route.
I didn’t have time on my previ-
ous trip. On this visit, the long West
David Swanson
Peak cable car route rose into
morning clouds, down into a valley
and back up, eventually arriving at
a station cloaked in snow and ice.
Lacking gloves, hat or scarf, I made
my way into a frozen wonderland.
Ice covered most of the paths
cut into the granite, leaving them
slippery. They were bordered —
sometimes on both sides of a knife-
edge ridge — by cliffs dropping
hundreds of feet.
Somehow, Chinese could navi-
gate these treacherous tracks. I
gripped the frozen chains, thinking
frostbite or a plunge into the
depths was just ahead.
I covered a good bit of Hua
Shan’s trails, ascending three of
the five peaks. But when I arrived
at the Plank Walk, it was closed.
Still, the long day — covering
miles of wintry tracks — was re-
warding, replete with smiling faces
experiencing China’s scenery on a
more micro level.
And the Plank Walk? It just
might be reason enough to return
again.
S U N DAY, F E B RUARY 2 4 , 2 019
If you go
THE BEST WAY
TO XIAN, CHINA
From LAX, Hainan offers nonstop
service to Xian, and Air China,
American, China Southern, China
Eastern, Delta and United offer
connecting service (change of
planes). Restricted round-trip
fares from $935, including all
taxes and fees.
Xian’s airport is 25 miles
northwest of the city center. If you
have not prearranged a transfer
with your hotel, taxis are usually
the easiest route into the city.
Allow at least 45 minutes, and be
sure to have a copy of the
address of your destination in
Chinese characters (few taxi
drivers speak or read English).
The fare is about $20, slightly
more at night. Airport buses to
the city center depart every 20
minutes until the last flight of the
evening lands; the fare is $4.
A subway line linking the airport
with downtown Xian is expected
to open later this year.
ENTRY REQUIREMENTS
A visa is required for U.S. citizens
visiting China. You can obtain one
through a visa service or by
applying in person at the
Consulate-General of the
People’s Republic of China, Third
Floor, 500 Shatto Place, Los
Angeles. It costs $140, whether
for a single entry or a
multiple-entry visa valid for 10
years.
If you will be staying three nights
or fewer and you will be traveling
to a third country, you may be
eligible for a free 72-hour transit
visa, allowing you to visit Xian
(only) without a standard tourist
visa.
TELEPHONES
To call the numbers below from
the U.S., dial 011 (the
international dialing code), 86
(the country code for China) and
the local number.
WHERE TO STAY
Lodging prices below are starting
rates for April, which is the start
L13
zhangshuang Getty Images
of high season.
Sheraton Xian North City Hotel,
32 Wei Yang Road, Xian; 29-
8886-6888, bit.ly/sheratonxian.
Just north of the City Wall;
convenient to the North Railway
Station and Xian Metro’s Line 2.
Doubles from $89.
Tang Dynasty Art Garden Hotel,
6-1 East Furong Road, Xian; 29-
8556-3333, tangdynastyartgar
denhotel.com. Great location
next to the Big Wild Goose
Pagoda, with one-story
bungalows facing gardens.
Doubles from $114.
Wyndham Grand Xian South,
No. 208 Cien East Road, Qujiang
New Area, Xian; 29-6821-9999,
wyndhamgrandxian.com.
Upscale hotel in modern area of
Xian just south of the City Wall.
Lots of shopping and restaurants
within walking distance, along
with the Big Wild Goose Pagoda.
Doubles from $118.
W Xian, 333 Qujiang Chi East
Road, Qujiang New District,
Xian; 29-8966-9999, bit.ly/
WinXian. Design-forward hotel
in chic new residential-business
district southeast of the city
center. Doubles from $165.
WHERE TO EAT
De Fa Chang, 28 Pingan Market,
Bell Tower Square, Xian; 29-
8767-6615, bit.ly/defachang.
Xian is famed for dumplings, and
80-year-old De Fa Chang offers
some of the best, with more than
200 varieties. Near the Bell and
Drum Tower Square.
Multicourse meal dumpling
meal about $19.
JiaSan, 93 Bei Yuan Men, Xian;
29-8725-7507. Large, popular
venue in the Muslim Quarter,
specializing in spicy lamb
soup dumplings, made to
order. Main dishes from $7.
TO LEARN MORE
Travel China Guide:
bit.ly/travelxian
China National Tourist Office:
cnto.org
L6 S U NDAY , F E B RUARY 2 4 , 2 019
SOUTH KOREA
GETTING TO THE HEART OF SEOUL
A beginner finds the big and busy South Korean capital welcoming and comfortable, even away from the more touristy areas — and samples some seafood that’s still moving
By Christopher Reynolds
SEOUL — The flight from LAX
took about 13 hours. The alphabet
had 24 letters, none familiar from
my youth. Lunch squirmed on my
plate. And an unpredictable ene-
my waited 35 miles to the north.
Yet Seoul soothed me.
In five January days as a rookie
among Seoul’s palaces, parks and
marketplaces, I gained 4 pounds
despite walking countless miles
down alleys full of people but
empty of graffiti and litter.
For two of those days, I relied on
translator/guides for help. Other-
wise I trusted Seoul’s multilingual-
ism, which includes subway signs
and museum labels in Korean,
English, Japanese and Chinese.
That worked fine.
In fact, for anyone accustomed
to Greater Los Angeles (popula-
tion about 13 million), the hospital-
ity, cosmopolitanism, technolog-
ical acumen, influential popular
culture and relentless tidiness of
South Korea’s capital (population
about 26 million) are likely to feel
inviting, humbling and tranquiliz-
ing.
Here are a few things a first-
timer learns in Seoul:
Start with a palace. One of the as-
tonishing things about Seoul is
that nearly all of it has been built
in the last 65 years. South Korea
since 1953 has gone from scorched
earth to one of the world’s strong-
est economies, cranking out Sam-
sung and LG phones and Hyundai
and Kia cars, along with pop music
and TV dramas that entertain mil-
lions of people beyond its bounda-
ries.
But the city does have five re-
stored palaces, all traceable to the
Joseon Dynasty that ruled Korea
from the 1390s to the 1890s.
In those five centuries, the Jo-
seon kings, their civil servants and
soldiers created a language,
spread Confucian philosophy and
built a culture that endured a sev-
en-year Japanese invasion in the
1590s; a Japanese occupation from
1910 to 1945; and the Korean War of
1950-53, which killed at least 2.5 mil-
lion people (by Encyclopedia Bri-
tannica’s estimate) and separated
Russian-backed North Korea (offi-
cially the Democratic People’s Re-
public of Korea) from U.S.-backed
South Korea (officially the Repub-
lic of Korea).
It makes sense to start with a
tour of the reconstructed Gyeong-
bokgung Palace, where the first Jo-
seon king presided. There are
stately tiled roofs. Elaborately
painted ceilings. Expansive
grounds. And if you can be here at
10 a.m. or 2 p.m., you’ll see a cere-
monial changing of the guard at
the palace’s Gwanghwamun Gate.
Check the mustaches. You’ll know
the 20-minute ceremony is starting
when you hear the slow beat of a
booming bass drum and see
sumunjang (guardsmen) in bright
colors bearing flags through the
Gyeongbokgung courtyard. Notice
the scimitars, the spears and
the fake mustaches — a clue
that these are re-enactors, not sol-
diers.
The changing of the guard is a
tourism-driven tradition because
there is no Korean royal family left
to protect. Enjoy it and grab a selfie
or two with an unsmiling guards-
man.
But also remember that South
Korea has a very real, very busy
military at work along the Demili-
tarized Zone 35 miles north and be-
yond.
Maybe one more palace. If it’s
Tuesday, Gyeongbokgung Palace
is closed. In that case — or if you’re
keenly interested in design —head
for Changdeokgung Palace.
This palace (closed Mondays) is
bigger than Gyeongbokgung, and
many of its buildings date to the
17th century.
Its gardens, where the royal
family spent idle hours among pa-
vilions, ponds and foliage, have
been singled out by UNESCO for
their harmonious design and have
their own tour.
But don’t imagine that this pal-
ace has always been placid and
happy. If you sign on for a tour of
the palace or gardens, ask the
guide how Jeongjo of Joseon came
to the throne in the 1770s and brace
yourself for a tale of palace intrigue
and filicide as horrifying as any
gothic drama.
Sample the action in Myeong-
dong. This is one of the city’s fore-
most shopping districts, packed
with hotels, restaurants, food
stalls and visitor favorites such as
the Nanta Theater, which offers a
wordless, kid-friendly musical
comedy about a kitchen crew pre-
paring a wedding feast.
A network of narrow alleys be-
tween the skyscrapers compresses
people, bright lights and food
GWANGJANG MARKET in Seoul is considered the biggest food market in the city, with more than 200 vendor booths, many of which are particularly known for their mung bean pancakes. If you can find a common language, take a seat and shoot the breeze with your cook.
CROWDS GATHER twice daily for the changing of the guard (actually actors) at Gwanghwamun Gate of Gyeongbokgung Palace.
smells in a dramatic way. In the
restaurants, you’ll find kimchi
(salted and fermented vegetables),
gochujang (fermented bean
paste), bulgogi (marinated beef
and pork) and bibimbap (rice
dishes). Out among the stalls,
you’ll glimpse corn, sausage,
seafood, fruit, churros, lobster,
chocolate and more, sometimes in
startling combinations.
The people-watching is top-
notch too. (That man in the cat
costume? He’s advertising one of
the two cat cafes in the neighbor-
hood.)
Or you could just shop. Myeong-
dong includes Shinsegae and
Lotte, two of the country’s biggest
luxury department stores.
Chow down at Gwangjang Mar-
ket, then stroll along the stream.
Myeong-dong and other Seoul dis-
tricts have plenty of intriguing al-
leys. But Gwangjang is renowned
for having the most food stalls,
about 200, many offering mung
bean pancakes, the market’s signa-
ture dish. Two people can dine on a
sampler plate stacked with bean,
fish and beef cakes for about $10.
Take a seat, watch the world
squeeze by and, if you can find a
common language, shoot the
breeze with your cook.
For a change of pace, take a
stroll along the market-adjacent
Cheonggyecheon Stream, a park
L AT I M ES . C O M /T R AV E L
(with walkways and burbling
waters) that offers a measure of
calm in the middle of the city, cov-
ering several miles and passing be-
neath about two dozen bridges.
Check out an old folk village.
Glimpses of Seoul as it stood be-
fore 1953 are rare, so it’s a good idea
to visit Bukchon Hanok Folk
Village, a neighborhood of homes
from centuries past, ingeniously
restored and still occupied. Resi-
L AT I ME S . CO M / T R AV E L
dents post signs in four languages
to discourage tourists from tres-
passing and urge them to whisper.
Which, remarkably, they do.
The main street leads to a hill-
top with splendid views of the old
tile roofs in the foreground, the
modern skyline beyond.
You might want to rent clothes.
When you approach a palace or his-
toric neighborhood, you can count
on seeing fellow tourists in hanbok
— historical costumes designed to
mimic fashions of the Joseon Dy-
nasty.
These are especially popular
among selfie-snapping young
women and families from Asia, but
all nationalities are welcome at the
hanbok shops that rent costumes
by the hour or day; $15-$20 for four
hours is typical.
As an American who doesn’t
have Korean roots or take a lot of
selfies, I wasn’t ready to suit up.
But you (or your teenage daugh-
ter) might like to. If so, you get free
admission to the palaces.
Ascend Namsan. Namsan Seoul
Tower, completed in 1969, rises 777
feet above 800-foot-high Namsan
Mountain. The result is an un-
bounded view of skyscrapers
(nearly all built since 1969), the sur-
rounding hills and valleys of the
city, the Han River and the wealthy,
modern commercial district of
Gangnam (which means “south of
the river” in Korean).
The Namsan Cable Car can
take you to the top of Namsan
Mountain for about $9 round trip.
There’s plenty to see and snack on,
but for the biggest views, pay $10
more for the elevator ride to the
tower’s wraparound observation
deck.
Draw your line between trendy
and touristy. Many sources
warned me about the touristy and
expat-centric nature of the
Itaewon area, so I left it off my itin-
erary. Despite similar warnings, I
kept on the Insa-dong area be-
cause its legions of souvenir shops
are neighbored by many art gal-
leries and the Buddhist Jogyesa
Temple.
If your kitsch threshold is low,
you might want to advance
straight to Samcheong-dong. I
landed in this trendy neighbor-
hood because I wanted to try the
widely praised barbecue at the
Maple Tree House restaurant.
But as my guide circled the
neighborhood in search of a park-
ing space (a common and difficult
activity in Seoul), I found myself
wishing I had another hour to
knock around Samcheong-dong’s
dozens of shops, galleries and ca-
fes, as many young, trendy Seoul
locals were doing.
Buy seafood downstairs. Eat
seafood upstairs. The Noryangjin
Fisheries Wholesale Market, easily
reached by subway, is mostly
within a slick building that opened
in 2016.
You step inside, confront a diz-
zying array of sea creatures, chal-
lenge yourself to eat adventur-
ously, then make purchases. If you
like, vendors will immediately send
those purchases upstairs to be
cooked per your request.
It isn’t cheap, but you will re-
member the day. My guide and I
spent about $130 browsing and
consuming a massive late lunch of
crab (steamed), abalone (roasted)
and octopus tentacles (raw), still
coiling and uncoiling though no
longer attached to their original
owner.
Some people claim to love them,
and I felt obliged to try them. I
didn’t get the appeal beyond the
novelty of eating something that’s
still moving. They’re very chewy
and not nearly as satisfying as aba-
lone and crab. (For the record:
They’re not alive despite the
twitching. The posthumous coiling
has to do with how their nervous
Photographs by
Pyongyang Sea of Japan
(East Sea)
NORTH KOREA
DEMILITARIZED
ZONE
Seoul
SOUTH KOREA
Yellow Sea
50 MILES
Sources: Nextzen, OpenStreetMap
Los Angeles Times
systems are wired.)
If you’re a photographer, you’ll
also want to step into the old fish
market building, which dates to
1971 and, during my visit, still had
more than a dozen merchants. It’s
a smellier, moodier, darker, more
cinematic place, well-suited to a
Jason Bourne chase scene.
Inspect the wall, climb Naksan.
For a good walk, start at the Seoul
City Wall Museum in the Dongdae-
mun District. From there, follow
the path along the wall, which
dates to 1396.
The route will take you through
blue-collar neighborhoods of old
low-rise houses with increasingly
grand views. You’ll eventually
reach Naksan Park, at the top of
Naksan mountain, where several
footpaths converge and there are
courts for badminton and foot vol-
leyball.
You’ll also see the boldly colored
walls of the Ihwa-dong Mural
Village, which includes the Noh
Bak Gallery, Lock Museum and an
immaculately decorated cafe that
specializes in coffee, sausages and
beer.
Step into the belly of the DDP.
Dongdaemun Design Plaza, a sinu-
S U N DAY, F E B RUARY 2 4 , 2 019 L7
TO VISIT
THE DMZ
The Demilitarized Zone, which
separates North and South Korea
about 35 miles north of Seoul, has
become one of the world’s most
austere tourist attractions.
It can be visited only on a
guided tour. One of the zone’s most
popular elements, the Joint Secu-
rity Area (Panmunjom) where
troops faced off for more than 60
years, was closed in October.
Tour operators continue to
pitch other DMZ itineraries, in-
cluding Imjingak Park/Resort,
Dora Observatory, a DMZ Muse-
um, the Dorasan train station and
the Third Tunnel, discovered
under the South Korean side in
1978. Prices range from $40 (for a
half day) to $140 (for a daylong vis-
it). Book at least a few days in ad-
vance and bring your passport.
Among the tour operators that
serve the DMZ:
Koridoor Tours, koridoor.co.kr
Panmunjom Travel Center, pan-
munjomtour.com
Joongang Express Tour, jsatour-
.com
International Cultural Service
Club, tourdmz.com
DMZ Tours, dmztours.com
Cosmojin Tour, cosmojin.com
If you go
THE BEST WAY TO SEOUL
From LAX, Korean and Asiana
offer nonstop service to Seoul’s
Incheon airport, and JAL, Delta,
United, Air China, All Nippon, Air
Canada and EVA offer connecting
service (change of planes).
Restricted round-trip airfare
from $961, including taxes and
fees.
WHERE TO STAY
Hotel 28, 13 Myeong-dong 7-gil,
Jung-gu, Seoul; hotel28.co.kr.
This sleek spot in Myeong-dong
has Korean film as its theme.
Doubles about $200 a night.
Inside is a Din Tai Fung
restaurant.
TMark Grand Hotel Myeong-
dong, 52 Toegye-roe, Jung-gu,
Seoul; tmarkgrandhotel.com.
Popular with tour groups, well-
suited for families. Doubles from
$114.
Lotte City Hotel Myeong-dong,
362 Samil-daero, Jung-gu, Seoul;
bit.ly/lottecitymyeongdong. In
business district near
Myeong-dong. Two restaurants,
one European-style. Lower rates
on weekends. Doubles from
$150.
The Plaza, 119 Sogong-ro,
Jung-gu, Seoul; hoteltheplaza
Christopher Reynolds Los Angeles Times .com/en. Ideal for well-fixed
first-timers in Seoul. Staffers
speak lots of English. Five
ous metal-and-concrete beast of a restaurants and bars. Part of
building by architect Zaha Hadid, Marriott’s Autograph collection.
takes up a big chunk of the low Doubles from $185.
ground in the Dongdaemun Dis-
trict. Hadid’s blank walls were a bit WHERE TO EAT
much for me — why not let artists Myeong-dong Kyoja, 29
use a few square feet of those big, Myeong-dong 10-gil, Jung-gu,
empty spaces? — but it’s visually Seoul; mdkj.co.kr. Noodle house
fascinating. famous for kalguksu, a vegetable
On one side is a design museum broth with noodles, dumplings
and on the other a collection of de- and meat. Very busy, well-suited
sign-oriented shops. to a quick bite. Most noodle
dishes $7-$10. There’s a second
Savor these public spaces, but be- branch at 8 Myeong-dong 10-gil
ware the spotlight. I wanted to and another in Itaewon.
take in a few more architectural Very Street Kitchen, 205
landmarks so I strolled past Mallijae-ro, Jungnim-dong,
Seoul’s gleaming blue-glass City Jung-gu, Seoul; veryrice.co.kr.
Hall (completed in 2013), which Korean fusion cooking for a hip
rises above the old stone Art Deco crowd in an old stone building.
City Hall (completed in 1926 and Good for a romantic dinner.
now a library). Dinner only. English spoken.
These two cool buildings are Noryangjin Fisheries Wholesale
neighbored by a public plaza where Market, 674, Nodeul-ro,
political demonstrators often Dongjak-gu, Seoul; bit.ly/noryang
gather. jinmarket. Expensive but
The only off-note of my stop oc- memorable.
curred as I walked past an anti- Food court, Shinsegae
North Korea demonstration, when Department Store, 63 Sogong-ro,
one young man faced me and said, Jung-gu, Seoul; bit.ly/shinsegae
“Yankee, go home.” departmentstore. Five upscale
I ignored him and caught a sub- restaurants fill the fifth floor of
way to the Old Seoul Station, site the store’s main building, with
of another 1920s building neigh- another on the sixth, and about a
bored by a modern addition. Here, dozen more casual eateries in the
too, demonstrators crowded the basement of the newer building. I
area — but this group was older liked Maruteo, which specializes
in bulgogi — grilled, marinated
and, as the images on their signs
beef. Main dishes $12-$18.
showed, seemingly happier with
U.S. policy.
In fact, spotting a likely Ameri- TO LEARN MORE
can at the edge of the crowd, one South Korea's biggest tour
demonstrator rushed up to give operator, Hanatour ([800]
me chocolates. Then others offered 455-8965, hanatour.us), offers
me a Korean flag pin. A calendar. day trips with English-speaking
An offer to buy me coffee. Two more guides in Seoul and the DMZ, as
took selfies with me, all within 15 well as multiday itineraries
covering multiple cities.
minutes.
This was far better than being Korea Tourism Organization,
told to go home, but I nevertheless english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu
stepped away as soon as I could. /index.kto
Public protests are treacherous Seoul Tourism Organization,
enough when you know the lan- english.visitseoul.net/index
guage. When you don’t — eating oc-
topus is safer, even if it squirms.
L14 S U N DAY, F E B RUARY 2 4 , 2 019
GEO QUIZ
The ancient ruins of
Volubilis are in
which present-day
country in North
Africa?
* Morocco
* Tunis
* Egypt
Answer below. Source:
National Geographic Bee
TIPSHEET
Museums
as designer
showplaces
By Mary Forgione
The designer gowns at Sun-
day’s Academy Awards have
one night of fame. Fans who
want to keep the high-fash-
ion conversation flowing will
find inspiration at these five
museums.
New York
In 2018, Metropolitan Muse-
um of Art’s Costume
Institute looked to medieval
Catholic traditions to inspire
its annual spring exhibition.
Now it’s embracing how
campiness affects fashion.
The 175 objects will include
designs by Rudi Gernreich,
Gucci, Karl Lagerfeld and
others. It opens May 9, pre-
ceded by the Met Gala.
Info: bit.ly/campnoteson
fashion
Los Angeles
Costumes will play a starring
role in the flashy new Renzo
Piano-designed Academy
Museum of Motion Pictures
taking shape at Wilshire
Boulevard and Fairfax Ave-
nue. The museum’s collec-
tion includes the striped suit
Jack Nicholson wore in 1974’s
“Chinatown.” A pair of ruby
slippers from “The Wizard of
Oz” (1939) also is among the
2,500 items that promise to
take visitors inside the mov-
ies when the museum opens
later this year.
Info: academymuseum.org
London
In the 1960s, Mary Quant
gave London girls plastic
knee-high boots, miniskirts
and ribbed tights. Terence
Conran designed a shop for
her. Together they shaped
the look of a new youth cul-
ture.“Swinging London: A
Lifestyle Revolution” at the
Fashion and Textile Museum
tells the story of how fashion,
furniture, ceramics and other
design elements changed a
generation. The show runs
until June 2.
Info: bit.ly/swinginglondon
show
Milan, Italy
The Armani/Silos museum
showcases Giorgio Armani’s
four decades of creative
endeavors. Pieces from vari-
ous collections are on perma-
nent display.
Info: bit.ly/armanimuseum
Paris
Through the end of the year,
50 haute couture YSL de-
signs are on display at Musée
Yves Saint Laurent, includ-
ing the famed Mondrian
dresses (autumn-winter
1965) and gowns made in
collaboration with sculptor
Claude Lalanne.
Info: bit.ly/yslmuseum
GEO QUIZ ANSWER:
Morocco
AIRFARES
ATLANTA CHICAGO
LAX $278 $226
SNA 298 258
BUR 350 288
LGB 338 308
ONT 354 318
INT’L AUCKLAND, NEW ZEALAND*
LAX $795-$1,321
Restricted round-trip airfares are researched on Thursday, the day before the Travel section goes to press. Fares change daily, and availability is not assured. Fares, which may involve a change of
planes, are for airlines serving Los Angeles International (LAX), Orange County/John Wayne (SNA), Hollywood Burbank (BUR), Long Beach (LGB) and Ontario (ONT). Domestic fares and interna-
tional airfares include taxes and fees. *These international fares vary because of differing fuel surcharges on different airlines. Sources: Sabre reservation system, airlines and Web.
THE CONCIERGE
A VISIT to Beit Guvrin National Park in Israel brought out a brave spirit. This cave has niches for doves.
DEPARTURE POINTS
Be brave and keep going
I was afraid of so much, but I
made a vow before a trip to
Israel: I would not be a wuss.
It paid off in satisfaction.
By Julie Steinschriber
I have always been a coward. When
my husband’s Israeli cousin asked
when I was going to visit his country, I
told him I was afraid to go.
But when our rabbi announced he
was planning a trip to Israel in 2013,
the emotional pull of visiting the Holy
Land outweighed my fears.
Speaking at a travel show, guide-
book author, TV personality and tour
leader Rick Steves once said he didn’t
want grouches on his trips. I decided I
wouldn’t be the Israel trip com-
plainer. Anything my fellow travelers
did, I would do. I would not be a wuss.
We flew El Al, on which the pre-
boarding security was reassuringly
thorough. Each of us was carrying
several prayer books to donate to a
synagogue. When the boarding agent
asked whether anyone had given us
anything to carry, I said, “No.”
“Your rabbi didn’t give you
books?” I was asked.
“Yes, but he’s not a stranger,” I
replied. I was allowed to board.
Once in Israel, I faced my first test
of bravery when we rafted the Jordan
River. Ordinarily, I would have been
afraid. Could I get in and out of the
raft? Realizing I wouldn’t be left in
that raft forever, that someone would
DEAL OF THE WEEK
California camping
guide for free or $5
If you’re planning a spring road trip,
the 2019 Camp-California guide can
help. It highlights RV, camping and
cabin sites in California and Nevada,
along with road-trip
ideas and suggestions on offbeat
places to visit.
The deal: The 92-page guide includes
a map showing where sites are and a
grid showing amenities for each site.
Private, state and county parks and
campgrounds are included. You can
download the guide or request a
printed copy ($5 by mail).
Info: bit.ly/2019campingguide
— Mary Forgione
DENVER HONOLULU LAS VEGAS NEW YORK/NEWARK, N.J.
$202 $382 $98
222 412 122
242 499 146
232 387 119
222 542 192
CABO SAN LUCAS, MEXICO
$224
help me get in and out, I climbed in.
“I am not a wuss,” I repeated out
loud. Then I enjoyed the ride.
Before this trip, I would never have
ridden a camel. At Genesis Land,
whose website describes it as a place
where visitors can “experience life as
it was in biblical times,” everyone
rode camels to Abraham’s Tent,
where we would have dinner.
A friend had once posted on Face-
book a picture of himself riding a
camel. He lived to tell about it, so I de-
cided I would do it too. (Postscript on
that: That friend later posted a Face-
book “memory” about the runaway
camel he had ridden. Had I known
runaway camels were a thing … well,
I’m glad I didn’t know.)
The most adventurous part of the
trip occurred in the caves of Beit Gu-
vrin National Park. First, we partici-
pated in a dig uncovering pottery
from the Hellenistic period about
2,300 years ago. After that, we could
go spelunking in a cave or sit under a
pop-up tent waiting for the others to
finish. Newly courageous, I chose
spelunking.
The cave where the dig took place
was well lighted. You went only into
the first room. The spelunking cave
was more treacherous. We had to
light candles that sat in holes in the
walls as we made our way. Once I had
begun, there was no turning back.
I was the slowest one of our group,
but I eventually arrived at a hole,
about 2 feet in diameter, through
which I was somehow supposed to
lower myself. It was completely dark
beneath the hole. I couldn’t tell how
RANCHO OSO Guest Ranch & Stables in Santa Barbara, one of the
properties profiled in the 2019 Camp-California guide, has cottages.
PHOENIX SAN FRANCISCO
$289 $138
312 138
293 148
296 186
284 167
LONDON* PARIS* SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA*
$664-$1,275 $689-$1,236 $786-$1,280
L AT I ME S . CO M / T RAVE L
TOURS &
CRUISES
MOROCCO
Desert,
age-old
culture
Spend a night in the Sahara
Desert and visit the ancient
cities of Marrakech and Fez
on a 10-day journey to Mo-
rocco. The Naya Traveler
tour will be led by its found-
er, Sarah Casewit. Destina-
tions include Fez, an oasis in
Ouarzazate and Marrakech,
known for its colorful
markets, gardens, palaces
and mosques. Participants
will stay in private accom-
modations and meet with
artisans, craftsmen and
other locals. Group limited
to 12.
Dates: June 3-12
Price: From $4,990 per
person, double occupancy.
Includes accommodations,
some meals, tour leader,
private transport, activities,
entrance fees and tourism
taxes. International
airfare and gratuities not
included.
Info: Naya Traveler, (301)
358-5096, nayatraveler.com
— Rosemary McClure
suprunvitaly Getty Images
COLOMBIA
Cultural walks
Get a fresh look at Colombia
on week-long tour offered by
Classic Journeys. The itiner-
ary includes a walking tour
of Medellín; visits to the
resort town of Guatapé,
far I would drop. I wasn’t even sure I known for its vividly painted
would fit through the hole. buildings, and a family-
I yelled for the guide, who had owned coffee plantation;
gone ahead. She returned with her and a jungle walk and picnic
flashlight, and I could see below. No in Tayrona National Natural
longer a wuss, I lowered my feet into Park, home to hundreds of
the hole and wiggled to the ground, bird species. The tour con-
feeling as though I had been born cludes in Cartagena, where
again. I navigated the rest of the cave participants will visit a
by crawling, walking and scooting on school founded by the sing-
my tush. er Shakira and learn to
Waiting near the exit, our group make traditional dishes.
cheered for me. At the pop-up tent, Dates: June 30-July 6, Aug.
those who heard the story of my brav- 4-10, Sept. 22-28
ery gave me a standing ovation.
We saw and did amazing things on Price: From $5,995 per
that trip. We met 30 relatives and U.N. person; single supplement
peacekeepers, floated on the Dead available. Includes accom-
Sea, heard our voices echo from the modations, all breakfasts
valley below Masada and much more. and most other meals,
The trip was life-changing. Not admission to events and
historic sites, and land
only did I find my repository of brav-
ery, but so did my friends. Last win- transportation. Interna-
ter, when a California friend visited tional airfare and one intra-
her grandchildren in New York, she country flight not included.
had to drive one of them to preschool Info: Classic Journeys, (800)
in the snow. 200-3887, bit.ly/colombia
As she drove, she repeated, “I am walkingtour
not a wuss.” — Anne Harnagel
You should try it sometime.
Departure Points explores the ways SOUTH GEORGIA
traveling changes us, whether it’s a ISLAND
lesson learned or a truth uncovered.
You may submit a first-person essay
of 700 or fewer words to
Photo voyages
travel@latimes.com using Say hello to thousands of
“Departure Points” in the subject king penguins on a two-
line. Please include your first and week photo expedition to
last names and your contact South Georgia Island,
information for editorial known as the Serengeti of
consideration. the southern Atlantic be-
cause of its bountiful wild-
life. Two fall voyages, organ-
ized by One Ocean Expedi-
tions, will each spend seven
days in South Georgia,
viewing fur and elephant
seals, whales, albatross and
other sea birds. Passengers
also visit the South Georgia
Museum and the grave site
of explorer Ernest Shackle-
ton.
Dates: Oct. 26-Nov. 9 and
Nov. 7-21
Price: From $10,295 for the
Oct. 26 voyage and $13,195
for the Nov. 7 trip. Includes
accommodations, meals,
transfers, excursions, pho-
tography workshops, pre-
sentations and a gear pack-
age. International airfare
not included.
Info: One Ocean Expedi-
Jeff Crider tions, (855) 416-2326, bit.ly
/southgeorgiaphototour
— Rosemary McClure
SEATTLE WASHINGTON, D.C. $726 TO FIJI
Fare: From LAX, $726
$88 $157 $295
round trip, including all
88 158 324 taxes and fees, to Nadi, Fiji,
on Fiji Airways
92 168 318 Restrictions: Subject to
104 198 288 availability. For travel
March 1-Dec. 11. Tickets
112 148 388 must be purchased by
Wednesday.
TOKYO* VANCOUVER, CANADA Info: (800) 227-4446,
fijiairways.com
$747-$1,242 $262 Source: Airfarewatchdog
.com