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TRAVEL

SUNDAY, JANUARY 27, 2019 L

TRAVEL

Photo of the Grand Plaza martini bar on Celebrity Edge by Rosemary McClure

CRUISING ON THE EDGE


The maiden voyages of the avant-garde Celebrity Edge and Holland America’s musically marvelous
Nieuw Statendam impress. Also, we sail the Mediterranean with five children, experiment with
onboard spa treatments, and detail the trends you’ll see on cruises — or at least on Instagram. L3-7

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L2 S U N DAY , JA N UA RY 27 , 2 019 L AT I M E S. C O M /T R AV E L

BEFORE YOU GO
NEED TO KNOW ON THE SPOT CATHARINE HAMM

Ontario airport offering


discount parking online Learning another language
The Inland Empire’s Ontario International Airport
just raised the bar for convenience in parking. A new park-
ing reservation program allows travelers to go online,
book a space and pay in advance.
Reservations are accepted for daily and/or valet park-
ing at the airport through a system that tracks available
is so fun it’s embarrassing
spaces. To make a reservation, travelers may go to book A reader recently wrote to ask about a language-immersion program. How in the world do you narrow your choices and
ing.flyontario.com and select a check-in and check-out
figure out whether that program is right for you? Will the Spanish you learn in Mexico be comprehensible in Spain and vice
date, just as you would for a hotel reservation.
A bar code sent by email allows you to enter and exit versa? What if you make horrible mistakes and embarrass yourself?
the parking lot on the selected dates.
If visitors don’t want to use the new digital program, Learning a second lan-
they can still park without a reservation, but online prices guage puts you in good com-
will be cheaper. Posted lot prices start at $13 a day at econ- pany these days, Francois
omy Lot 3, and $18 to $24 a day at Lot 2. Grosjean wrote in Psychology
LAX doesn’t offer online booking for airport parking Today: In 1980, about 11% of
but is on track to adopt such upgrades, which could go the U.S. population was
into effect as soon as 2020. bilingual. Today it’s nearly
— Mary Forgione double that.
“The position of promi-
nence that English has in the

Sea-Tac alternative airport delay U.S. is in no danger, but some


room is now being made for
other languages,” he wrote.
Alaska Airlines had planned to start commercial serv- “This can only lead to a per-
ice at Seattle’s alternative airport on Feb. 11. But opera- son’s personal enrichment,
tions at the small airport in Everett, Wash., stalled be- increased ties between gen-
cause the workers needed to complete Federal Aviation erations and cultures, and
Administration requirements had been furloughed be- more diversity in job opportu-
cause of the partial government shutdown. nities.”
On Friday, President Trump announced a deal to fund Some pretty great reasons
the government through Feb. 15. to undertake this, but before
Paine Field, about 30 miles north of Seattle in Sno- you plunge headlong into this
homish County, is a small private-public airport posi- adventure for yourself or your
tioning itself as an alternative to busy Sea-Tac Interna- child, consider these factors
tional Airport. Alaska and United were the first two air- that you may need to be Cat O’Neil For the Times
lines to sign on. successful:
As the shutdown lingered, Alaska moved the start •Interest in the language. Marc L. Greenberg, a classes. for it and know you will need
date for service to March 4 for select flights, with service to Taking on a new language professor of Slavic languages “Students have greater to substitute some expres-
L.A. starting March 5 and to Orange County starting isn’t easy, but if you have the and director of the School of gains in oral proficiency and sions for others.
March 12. desire — the interest — your Languages, Literatures and higher self-confidence,” when •Be prepared to make mis-
Before the shutdown compromise was reached, chances are better. (Attention Cultures at the University of they are immersed, she said. takes.
Alaska told passengers who were supposed to fly between parents who are forcing their Kansas in Lawrence, noted “They have larger gains in Having the confidence to
Feb. 11 and March 4 that they would be rebooked on a Sea- kids to learn [fill in blank]). that language learning is an cultural competence.” speak the language helps you
Tac flight as close to their original flight times as possible •Time. Language acquisition exercise in “humility.” Interestingly, buddying up forge ahead, even if you err,
or that they would be given a refund. takes time for formal classes if So why subject yourself with a person in another such as insisting you need
It was not clear by midday Friday, the deadline for the you pursue that route, but to such an ordeal these country who speaks some of “squid — like you wear on
Travel section, how quickly Alaska could be up and run- hanging out with people who days? Aren’t there trans- your language is a bigger help your feet” to the extremely
ning at Paine Field. are native speakers can be lators that will turn another than someone who knows puzzled shopkeeper in Quito,
United Airlines service set to connect with hubs time-intensive too. Both are language into yours? Doesn’t none, Bryant said. Ecuador, if what you really
in Denver and San Francisco is scheduled to begin time well spent, but they are much of the world speak How do you begin narrow- wanted were socks. Not that
March 31. time. English? ing the choices? anything like that ever hap-
The partial government shutdown, which began Dec. •Resilience. Admitting what Both of these things may •Ask friends who have done pened to me.
22, also affected other airline operations. you don’t know is often more be true to a certain extent, an immersion. Don’t be shy. •Even knowing you will stum-
Southwest Airlines’ California-Hawaii service has difficult than showing off but there’s also a sense of They have no reason not to ble, be fearless, Greenberg
been delayed because the long-haul certification what you do know. pride in accomplishment and be frank. said. Your mistakes are un-
could not be completed while FAA workers were fur- “To learn a language, you a sense of belonging to a •If you have a specific lan- likely to be fatal. Unless you
loughed. have to humble yourself,” said community that’s different guage in mind, check with die of embarrassment.
The government could shut down again if lawmakers Julianne Bryant, an associate from your own. the faculty at a community He told this story:
fail to reach an agreement on border security. professor of Spanish at Biola Further, Bryant said, college or university and get He was in Croatia and was
— Mary Forgione University in La Mirada. having a second language can their advice on what works, ordering a pizza in Croatian,
benefit your brain. Greenberg said. which he read and wrote
Making the commitment You may notice different pretty well, he said. He asked
may be more difficult than words are used in different for various toppings, none of
finding the right fit for you, countries to mean the same which was available. In frus-
but here are some of the ways thing; just as American and tration he asked the woman

UP TO
you can begin to explore: British English differ (trunk what was available to put on
•Classes do help. You can do vs. boot, diaper vs. nappy), the pizza.
some online learning other languages do as well. At least, that’s what he

2,300
through, say, extension How do you adjust what thought he said. Instead he

$ 1 classes to help with language you’ve learned to the lan- had just asked her what was
basics or with such learning guage you’ll now be hearing? available to put on a specific
tools as Rosetta Stone. Bryant, who studied in female body part.
•Immersion helps too. There Spain, ended up working in a “She cracked up,” he said.
are different ways to immerse community that spoke Carib- He realized what he had
yourself, Bryant and Green- bean Spanish. Here are her done, and although it was

IN SAVINGS
berg said. You might listen to suggestions: cringe worthy, laughter
TV programs or watch mov- •If you have the basic struc- knows no language barrier.
ies in that language or listen ture of the language, you can Plus he will always have a
to music. You might hang out do two things: learn to tune story to tell.

Sale !
PER STATEROOM ON SELECT 2019 AMAWATERWAYS SAILINGS. with people in your commu- your ear to that accent or way Like squid. You know.
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AAA TRAVEL
But an away-from-home stand. Have a travel dilemma or
stint in which you are sur- It’s less important, she question? Write to
rounded by that language said, to learn strictly the travel@latimes.com. We
GET A may be the best teacher of all, language you will be speaking regret we cannot answer

$50 OR $100
perhaps aided by formal than to have the framework every inquiry.

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elmvilla Getty Images


A CRUISE SHIP moors in the Bay of Villefranche, France, which was recently named the most beautiful Mediterranean port, with Cap Ferrat on the left.

TEN DAYS, FIVE KIDS


BY BLAKE SNOW >>> Cruising the Mediterranean is an excellent way for families to explore Europe. The landlocked sea touches many of the
continent’s most popular destinations, including major ports of Spain, France and Italy in the west, and cozy ports of Croatia, the Balkans and
Greece in the east. ¶ Port-hopping also removes much of the logistical and (linguistic) hassle of crossing borders and planning schedules. The
“floating hotel,” all-inclusive food and entertainment travel with you, and getting on and off the ship typically requires only your key card
instead of a passport, paperwork and long immigration lines. ¶ Does cruising the Med with children live up to its reputation? After recently
doing so with our five children on a Celebrity Mediterranean excursion, my wife, Lindsey, and I can say yes. ¶ You’ll need to budget more (plus
the cost of transatlantic flights) than you would, say, for a Mexico or Caribbean cruise. ¶ Cruising Europe also comes with trade-offs; some
experiences are not as deep as if you were on foot. ¶ Before booking your family cruise to the Mediterranean, here’s what you need to know.

Choosing sides with a straight face, if Rome was


Do you want a quieter cruise to built before or after he was born.
smaller ports, or would you rather
In their own words
expose your kids to lots of iconic
points of interest? Cruising the For this story, I asked our chil-
Med forces you to answer that dren what they enjoyed most
question, because most of the itin- about the cruise. Here are their re-
eraries are divided into eastern or sponses.
western routes. “I liked silent disco,” said my 8-
Because we wanted iconic Eu- year-old, referring to the popular
rope, Lindsey and I chose a west- onboard activity in which you don
ern route with stops in Rome; Bar- headphones and choose one of
celona, Spain; Florence, Italy; and three dance music stations to en-
Nice, France, among others. joy privately. Part of the fun is see-
Although the eastern and west- ing which color-coded station the
ern routes are equally picturesque crowd is most enjoying, not to men-
and relaxing, I’m glad we started tion walking up on a bunch of
on the western route. Another silent, headphone-wearing danc-
American family, who had done ers.
both, confirmed our choice. “I liked how kid-friendly the
ship was,” my 10-year-old said. “I
felt safe at the kids club and while
Favorite destinations navigating the ship without you
We didn’t have a single dud and mom.”
among the eight ports we visited. The others had simpler an-
Rome was wonderful, made even swers. “I liked the arcade,” my 6-
better with the “skip-the-line” year-old said.
tours of the Vatican and Col- “I liked the pool,” said my 5-
osseum that we booked through year-old.
Get Your Guide. “I liked the food,” added my 12-
Barcelona was as bright, col- year-old — a sentiment I would
orful and tapas-filled as I had mostly agree with, although there
imagined. Villefranche-sur-Mer on Timothy Knox Getty Images were some misses.
the French Riviera lived up to its BARBARY MACAQUE monkeys in Gibraltar, one of the ports of call on the Celebrity itinerary.
recent selection as the most beau- Worthwhile trade-offs
tiful port in the Mediterranean. Because you’re staying on a
We couldn’t have chosen a bet- cruise ship with included meals,
ter place to hire a catamaran for you’ll experience fewer food, enter-
the afternoon than in Palma de tainment and lodging options than
Mallorca. And the monkeys and you would if traveling by land. This
tunnels of Gibraltar Rock Tours results in fewer encounters with lo-
were an unexpected hit for parents cals and ultimately less depth.
and children. That’s not to say the crew didn’t
On 11 nights and only two full try. One night in Barcelona, staff
days at sea, we saw and did more brought in a local flamenco group
than we had on our Caribbean and to perform in the ship’s audito-
Alaskan cruises. rium. And every day, the cooks
served local dishes of the ports we
Culture clashes were headed to, sometimes with
Different societies behave dif- spectacular results.
ferently, and Europe is proof of As for the unauthentic experi-
that. I wanted our children to expe- ences, we still had a good time.
rience this — and the cruise did not Highlights included the aforemen-
disappoint. tioned disco dancing, outdoor
On a beach in Spain, we saw movies under the stars and kids
men in the briefest of swim trunks club “babysitting” that the kids ac-
and women wearing nothing at all tually enjoyed.
on top. In parts of Italy, we saw
more scooters on the road than Final judgment
cars and learned what it’s like to be Is cruising the Mediterranean
without air conditioning in 100-de- the best way to expose kids to Eu-
gree heat. We saw strangers eating rope? Not necessarily. But it is cul-
hamburgers with cutlery and were turally rich, highly educational and
delighted by every bidet we en- convenient.
countered. Cruising the Med lets you kill
There’s nothing wrong with any two birds (a top-rated ocean and a
of that. I’m grateful our kids got a Giulio_dgr Getty Images culturally rich continent) with one
chance to see another way of life. THE FOUNTAIN in the Piazza della Rotonda in Rome with the Pantheon in the background. stone (a cruise ship). The attempt
to showcase the continent suc-
Priceless moments saw Pope Francis speaking im- sweltering Mediterranean heat deck. ceeded far more often than it failed.
I won’t forget many things mediately after we left St. Peter’s with bottomless soft-serve ice More than anything, though, I’ll Bottom line: If you appreciate
about our trip, some of which we Basilica. cream on the ship; seeing Italy’s remember the pride I felt hearing cruising, your family will like it. If
were lucky to have experienced Other things were simple but Tuscan countryside full of green my kids say “Grazie,” “Merci” and not, you might feel constricted by
firsthand. We stumbled upon a pri- just as memorable: indulging in ge- hills and tall columns, and watch- “Gracias” without my prompting. the predictable format. As for me
vate Mass in Rome’s Pantheon and lato and street pizza; surviving the ing golden sunsets from the ship’s That and my 5-year-old asking me, and my household, we believe.
L4 S U N DAY , JA N UA RY 27 , 2 019 L AT I ME S . CO M / T RAVE L L AT I ME S . CO M / T R AV E L S U N DAY, JA N UA RY 27 , 2 019 L5

Steve Dunlop
THE EDEN BAR is characterized by a towering display of plants, some used as cocktail garnishes.

Michel Verdure Celebrity Cruises Rosemary McClure


A ROOFTOP GARDEN sits atop the Celebrity Edge. The 1,004-foot-long vessel was launched in December with an array of ballyhooed features, including a “10 minutes from car to bar” boarding process powered by facial recognition and an app. A PLATFORM called the Magic Carpet serves upper decks as an open-air restaurant or lounge.

CELEBRITY AIMS TO BE CUTTING-EDGE


The line launches a $1-billion ship with tall windows instead of balconies, reimagined dining rooms and an exterior platform that changes functions, personalities
have people in the cruise industry wegian and MSC Cruises. Carnival Magic Carpet such as a Laser Maze that passen-
By Rosemary McClure — and travelers alike — talking Cruise Line will launch the Carni- gers can try to navigate. (Think
A 90-ton platform, called the
about it for a long time. val Panorama, which in December If you go Magic Carpet, hangs over the side “Ocean’s 12.”) At night Undercover
ABOARD THE CELEBRITY The ship, Celebrity’s first in six will make its home port in South- of the ship, slides up and down at the Club takes over, a space-age
EDGE — I peered through the years, is the initial vessel of four ern California. from Decks 2 to 16, and acts as an venue with a bar and live music.
open window of my stateroom and scheduled to launch through 2022. All of these will have plenty of To book, contact your travel But the edgiest — there’s that
agent or Celebrity Cruises, (888) open-air restaurant or lounge on
watched the lights of southern It’s aimed at people who aren’t nec- bells and whistles, but it may be dif- the higher floors. On Deck 2, it be- word again — venue is the Eden bar
Florida grow smaller by the second essarily cruisers. ficult to best Edge in the near fu- 751-7804, celebritycruises.com. and dining room at the back of the
Edge is currently sailing in the comes a transit area for passengers
and finally disappear. “People tell us they haven’t con- ture in terms of trailblazing ideas. waiting to board tenders that will ship.
Caribbean; rates for a weeklong
We had left the dock about 15 sidered cruising before, but they take them to shore. It’s a stunning space; three
western Caribbean cruise (Feb. 17
minutes earlier. I usually celebrate want to be on this ship,” said Lisa Quick boarding and other dates) start at $1,299 decks tall with enormous windows,
The Magic Carpet is the size of a
the beginning of a cruise from my Lutoff-Perlo, Celebrity’s chief exe- My introduction to the 2,900- per person, double occupancy, tennis court and offers great views incredible views and a terraced
balcony, where I would do a happy cutive and president. “Edge is the passenger ship came during a for an inside room; rates for the from the higher decks. It also lounge that begins on Deck 3 and
dance as the land grew smaller and future of cruising.” three-day, round-trip cruise that Infinite Veranda cabin start at makes access to a tender much ends on Deck 5. In between, there’s
the sea grew larger. Edge, selected in December by sailed from Fort Lauderdale’s Port $2,699 per person, double easier because there are no stairs a bar with a 20-foot-tall wall of
But a major innovation in the CruiseCritic.com as the best new Everglades in Florida, where we occupancy. to descend. Passengers who use plants and day-to-night entertain-
design of this ship has eliminated ship, is as avant-garde as its name boarded through a new, $125-mil- wheelchairs can make the transi- ment that includes aerialists and
standard balconies in favor of en- implies, a groundbreaking vessel lion terminal built for Celebrity. tion without much trouble. performance artists who interact
larged cabins with floor-to-ceiling that may convince non-cruisers — True to promise, we spent little the edge of the ship, almost like an The tangerine-colored platform with the audience.
windows. The top half of the win- especially travelers who picture time waiting in line. Lutoff-Perlo infinity pool — thus the Infinite Ve- is being called the world’s first can-
dow slides down with the touch of a themselves as trendsetters — to had said before the ship’s launch randa moniker. Dining
tilevered venue at sea and makes
button. I could still do a happy hop onboard. that the goal for passengers would The design adds about 23% the ship recognizable from miles There isn’t one main dining
dance, but no one would see me. There are innovative design im- be “10 minutes from car to bar” — more space to the cabins. Floor-to- away. It’s a fun place to have a drink room on Edge. Instead, there are
More than a thousand of us had provements throughout the ship, and we made it. ceiling windows open, offering pan- and socialize. On the flip side, four new-to-the-line themed din-
set sail earlier in the day on the plus sexy new entertainment and The secret: Facial recognition oramic views. At night, passengers some passengers complained that ing rooms: Normandie, inspired by
maiden voyage of Celebrity Edge, culinary upgrades. But Edge may teamed with an app that speeds can close bi-fold doors to shut out the wait to board a tender is longer Murano, Celebrity’s French spe-
the most ballyhooed vessel of 2018- not be as popular with veteran the process for guests who have light and sound. using the Magic Carpet. cialty restaurant; Tuscan, featur-
19. cruisers and thrill seekers who pre- checked in, scanned their pass- Edge has more than 900 Infinite ing dishes from southern Italy;
The hype had been nonstop for fer lots of top-deck toys; Celebrity’s ports and taken a selfie. Even with- staterooms, most of which are 243 Cyprus, offering Mediterranean
more than a year before the De- persona is “modern luxury” — no out completing these steps in ad- square feet. A smaller version, at New spaces dishes; and Cosmopolitan, with
cember launch. Celebrity Edge, its water slides or climbing walls in- vance, I was onboard within10 min- 131 square feet, is available for sin- As the Edge was being de- choices from the line’s other main
marketing staff had said, would be cluded. utes. gle travelers. signed, one of the goals was to in- dining-room menus.
“revolutionary,” “game-changing,” Adventurers may be happier Although the cruise was short, I like the design and the extra crease passengers’ connection to Other specialty restaurants
“visionary” and “transform how we with Royal Caribbean’s Symphony it was historic because it included space, but some fellow passen- the sea, Lutoff-Perlo said. Conse- and a host of bars bring to 29 the to-
experience the world.” of the Seas, which hit the water the ship’s christening and naming Michel Verdure Celebrity Cruises gers complained that opening a quently, floor-to-ceiling windows tal number of places to dine or
And then there’s the name: It three months ago and was the larg- party, a splashy event that in- A MOVABLE , tangerine-colored platform is called the Magic Carpet. On Deck 2, it becomes a transit area for passengers boarding tenders. window — even a cabin-wide win- can be found in the fitness center, drink.
had been chosen “to leave the fu- est ship in the world when it cluded bagpipers; singer Andra dow — isn’t the same as going out- spa and many other areas. There’s much more to explore
ture behind.” launched, or Norwegian Cruise Day; and the ship’s godmother, No- her public stance on education for ship. Many of us hustled up and stop at a destination: We spent sev- Infinite Veranda side. An unusual open-air Rooftop on Edge — two-deck-tall, martini-
How does the billion-dollar ship Line’s Bliss, which launched earlier bel Peace Prize winner Malala women. She is now 21and a student down the 16-deck vessel, eager to eral hours anchored off the Baha- Will we see this type of room on Garden, featuring metal sculp- glass-shaped hot tubs, a Grand
stack up? in 2018 and often sails out of West Yousafzai, co-founder of the at Oxford University. Lutoff-Perlo get a look at its innovations. There mas but never went ashore. Cruise In the1970s, balconies were rela- other ships? I got a quick “Yes” tures and live plants, has ocean Plaza with a combination bar/light
It’s a high-seas hit for Celebrity Coast ports. Malala Fund, which supports edu- said she was chosen because she were too many to see that day, and lines assume passengers are more tively unknown on ships; today, when I asked Richard Fain, chief views during the day; at night it show, and two-story suites with
and its corporate parent, Royal Ca- The coming year will bring a cation for girls and young women. exemplifies Celebrity’s focus on the hustling went on for the rest of interested in learning about a new some high-end ships advertise executive of Royal Caribbean changes into a dining room and plunge pools.
ribbean Cruises Ltd. There are host of other new ships to chal- At 15, Yousafzai survived an as- women as employees and leaders. the cruise. ship than learning about a port. that all cabins have balconies. Cruises Ltd. They will next appear club with live music. But try the ship for a week: a
plenty of wow factors packed into lenge Celebrity Edge, including sassination attempt by the Tali- Before the christening, passen- That’s one reason short inaugu- Here’s a quick look at some of Edge has flipped this trend inside on a new Royal Caribbean ship, he The Club, another day-to-night three-day cruise isn’t enough time
its 1,004-foot length; the vessel will vessels from Princess Cruises, Nor- ban, which targeted her because of gers had a few hours to survey the ral cruises like this one often don’t Edge’s innovations: out by expanding rooms right to said. venue, offers daytime activities to see it all.
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NEW PORTS,
FOOD, TECH,
ACTIVITIES
By Rosemary McClure

Where will your passport take you this year? Thanks to the booming
cruise industry, you can choose from a bumper crop of destinations.
More than 20 new ships will launch in 2019, bringing the number of
cruise vessels to more than 300. They’ll visit more than 1,200 ports and
will carry an estimated 3 million passengers.
As the popularity of cruising has increased, the industry has devel-
oped new ways to appeal to passengers of varying ages: new itineraries,
entertainment, technologies and adventures.
Here’s a look at some trends cruisers will find this year, according to
Cruise Lines International Assn. and other cruise industry insiders.

Health and wellness players are investing millions of


If you’re a runner, Weight dollars in systems that offer in-
Watcher, CrossFit fan or vegan, creasingly reliable Wi-Fi service.
there’s a cruise with your name on Some are making Wi-Fi more
it. affordable: Carnival Corp.’s cruise
Themed sailings occur year- ships, for instance, offer passen-
round; you’ll find a list of more gers a package that offers access
than 500 at ThemeCruiseFinder to all social media sites for $5 a
.com. day.
Cruise lines are tapping into Technology is improving other
America’s fitness and wellness elements of the cruise experience
desires by offering more health- too. Princess Cruises now offers
related classes and excursions on the Ocean Medallion, a wearable
most sailings. device that can be used to order
Among the new options: Learn food, drinks and custom enter-
the flowing motions of tai chi on tainment and participate in inter-
the beach of the Spanish island of active gaming. Other lines, such
Mallorca with Regent Seven Seas; as MSC Cruises, have developed
practice yoga at dawn on the deck similar systems.
of Lindblad Expeditions’ National
Solo travel
Geographic Venture on the Gulf of
California; or spend a day medi- Traveling solo can be addic-
tating with a monk in a golden tive. You can do exactly what you
temple in Bangkok with Oceania want, when you want. Cruise
Cruises. companies are making it easier
and less expensive.
Steve Dunlop Although some lines still force
CELEBRITY EDGE’S spa has 11 heated tile loungers with panoramic views for relaxing.
Instagrammable single travelers to pay two fares,
cruise travel an increasing number of cruise

SPA TREATMENT
Along with improved Wi-Fi is a companies are creating solo cab-
greater use of Instagram, which is ins with lower fares.
changing the way people travel. Norwegian Cruise Line is a
They’re not just looking for beau- leader, with studio cabins on
tiful places and cultures to dis- many of its ships. It also gives solo
cover for themselves; they also travelers access to a lounge where

WASHES AWAY ...


want to show their friends where they can meet other single trav-
they are and what they’re eating. elers. Holland America, Royal
That’s why culinary travel, on Caribbean International and
board and ashore, will continue to Celebrity Cruises also offer solo
draw travelers. Most lines are cabins.
tapping into this trend by seeking Other lines sometimes dis-
outside experts. count fees for single travelers.
Holland America Line, for
sage room, I stopped at the acu- instance, has developed an inter- Girlfriend getaways
The services offered are puncturist’s suite for a consulta- national culinary council made up Spend time in the spa, shop
expansive and expensive. tion. “Stick out your tongue,” he Cruise to comfort of celebrity chefs who bring a until you drop or laze by the pool:
told me. “Oh,” he said, shaking his global flavor to dining venues Sometimes it’s easier to indulge
A teeth-whitening session head when I did so.
Here’s a quick Spa 101 course:
across the fleet. without guilt when you travel with
“What?” I asked. girlfriends instead of a spouse or
is brilliant — until dinner. “In Chinese medicine, tongue boyfriend.
8 You can request a male or Experiential and
quality indicates a diagnosis as female technician. As the number of women trav-
By Rosemary McClure well as symptoms,” he said, add- achievement travel elers continues to grow, many
8 Some treatments may not
ing that he would tell me more Experiential travel — a popu- travel companies are creating
be safe for you, depending on
ABOARD THE CELEBRITY with a $169 treatment. I declined. health issues. Skin problems lar form of tourism that focuses on female-centered itineraries based
EDGE — Luxurious rooms lined Next on my tour was the such as dermatitis, psoriasis or experiencing a place by engaging on interests and connecting with
the hallway ahead of me. A woman MedSpa room, where I learned even a bad sunburn can its history, people, culture and other women.
or a man stood in each doorway about the ship’s aesthetic treat- heighten the risk of infection. food — will continue to grow in
beckoning; each wanted to tell me ments: injectable fillers such as Seaweed wraps have a high 2019. So will achievement travel, New destinations
about a service they could pro- Botox, Restylane and Dysport to iodine content so check with the cruise line association said in Cruise lines are having to find
vide. combat wrinkles, CoolSculpting your doctor about that or its “2019 Cruise Trends and Indus- new ports and adventures to
For a few moments I wondered to freeze fat away and Thermage anything else that’s new try Outlook” report. attract passengers as the number
whether I had taken a wrong turn to tighten skin. to you. “Vacationers are looking for of ships increases. Earth’s polar
and wandered into a chichi red- I looked closely at the Ther- 8 Some customers say that experiences beyond sightseeing,” regions are a prime draw; places
light district somewhere. mage before-and-after pictures technicians use high-pressure the CLIA report said. that once were too remote to
No, I was definitely in a cruise- the MedSpa doctor was holding. A sales techniques after a “Bucket lists have become explore are now being opened up
ship spa, I thought, walking into woman’s double chin had seem- treatment to sell products. To goal-oriented and cruise lines are by new Polar Class icebreaker
the nearest room, where a woman ingly disappeared. avoid this, tell your technician in meeting these demands. Passen- vessels.
urged me to try a quartz table “What about this?” I asked. advance you don’t want to buy gers can conquer Machu Picchu The Norwegian line
massage. “That’s not for you,” he said. anything and you don’t want to [in Peru] or complete culinary Hurtigruten, with a new ship in
“Warm crystals will mold and “You’re beyond the place where hear why you should. workshops hosted by Le Cordon 2018 and another this year, is a
shape around your body to release Thermage could help.” 8 Check your receipt: You’ve Bleu chefs.” prime example, and Ponant,
muscle tension,” she said. It would Ouch. I tried to make myself probably been billed for a Lindblad Expeditions and
cost only $169 for a 50-minute feel better by thinking about the gratuity. Smart tech Silversea are among other lines
treatment. money I was saving by not having — Rosemary McClure The days when cruise passen- offering passengers a chance to
It was the first of several the $2,750 Thermage treatment. gers felt disconnected from the see these frozen landscapes.
pitches I heard as I explored the Later that day I ran into a fel- rest of the world are almost gone. Four polar ships are expected
spa on Celebrity Edge, a ship that low traveler who had been ac- to look at my teeth. Some of the industry’s biggest to launch by 2020.
debuted in December. cepted for the treatment (yes, I Wow! They were super white.
Some of the world's toniest was jealous) and paid big bucks But my excitement was short-
spas are now located offshore on for it. My new acquaintance, a 46- lived. The bright-white look dis-
cruise ships like this one. year-old woman from Manhattan, appeared when I ate dinner.
Everything about the beauti- had thought the fee was fine but
fully designed Edge spa is over the was unhappy about the $400 tip to Dental reality
top: 22,000 square feet of space, the doctor. She said she didn’t “The effects of a quick treat-
124 different treatments, a think she should have to tip a doc- ment like that wouldn’t last long,”
MedSpa that offers fillers and tor and said she hadn’t been told said Dr. Ed Hewlett, a professor at
other therapies that can cost about the gratuity. the UCLA School of Dentistry.
thousands of dollars. To the spa’s credit, it refunded The combined light and bleach
But it’s not all that different the money when she complained treatment would have caused de-
from other new cruise-ship spas. later that day. hydration that made my teeth ap-
Today every major cruise line It also responded quickly to me pear whiter, he said.
offers amazing spa facilities that when I asked for a refund. “As soon as you ate or drank, Mark Katzman Mark Katzman
include dozens of treatments, your teeth would have lost that YOGA on the deck of Prin- PRINCESS’ wearable Ocean
thermal suites, pools, ice rooms, Bright smile look,” he added. cess Cruises’ Ocean Medal- Medallion can be used to
Turkish hammam steam baths, I’d decided to book a Go Smile Hewlett said cruise-ship whit- lion is part of a fitness trend. order food and drinks.
salons and fitness centers. teeth whitening treatment in- ening treatments, like the whit-
In fact, most cruise-ship spas stead of a massage. It was $149; the ening treatments now available in
are operated by the same Miami- least expensive massage cost $169. mall shops, are too brief to be ef-
based company, OneSpaWorld, Why not try something that cost fective and recommended cus-
which opened its first facility on less and would last longer than tom-made whitening trays, avail-
Cunard’s Queen Elizabeth 2 more the effects of a massage? able from dentists.
than a half-a-century ago. It now After I was seated the techni- Even though my teeth had lost
runs spas on more than 160 cruise cian told me the effects would last their original whiteness, I duti-
ships, including Edge. only a few days unless I spent $249 fully used my $259 Go Smile
Cruisers love spas, and cruise more for Go Smile treatment bleach for two weeks, stopping
lines love to provide these money- packs that I would apply twice only when my gums started to
makers. Prices usually exceed daily to my teeth for a month. hurt. My teeth looked the same as
those of land-based spas, not sur- “Then it will last for years,” she when I started.
prising when you consider there’s said. When I called to ask for a re-
no competition in the middle of I told her no, then I said yes, fund, I was assured there would be
the ocean. then I said no again. no problem.
The facilities are so popular I was at war with myself, “If you’re not happy with your
that treatments sometimes book mainly because I was unhappy service, we refund the money
up the day of embarkation, which about being told I needed to spend immediately,” said Cristina
is why experienced spa-goers rush more money. On the other hand, Sorondo, marketing director for
to register for treatments when why should I go through an un- OneSpaWorld. “Our job is to
they board, even before going to comfortable dental treatment for assure that everyone leaves
see their cabins. results that lasted only a few happy.”
I was among those who hit the days? I agreed to spend the addi- She added that the company
spa early on Celebrity Edge. Eager tional money. also has a full-time customer serv-
passengers crowded inside to tour During the treatment, the ice department to help passen-
the facility, learn about services technician dabbed something on gers post cruise.
and make appointments. Equally my teeth, then darkened the room “Whether it’s a massage or a fa-
eager technicians made their and focused a brilliant light on my cial or whatever it is, everything is
pitches, hoping to book massages teeth. After several minutes she 100% guaranteed,” she said. Nathalie Michel Studio Ponant
and sell products. came back into the room, whip- A massage would have been ANTARCTICA is a destination for Ponant cruises, as interest
After visiting the crystal mas- ped out a hand mirror and told me the better choice after all. grows for trips to remote areas such as the polar regions.
L AT I ME S . C OM / T R AV E L S U N DAY, JA N UA RY 27 , 2 019 L7

Photographs by Karl Zimmermann


HOLLAND AMERICA’S sleek, new ship, the Nieuw Statendam, caters to “modern explorers.” The ship’s maiden voyage in December took it from Italy to Florida.

THE SHIP’S many allures include the World Stage, left, which incorporates wrap-around screens in productions, and a tasting bar with a wide variety of whiskeys.

A ‘LANE’ CHANGE
On the Nieuw Statendam’s maiden voyage, a pair of ‘Mariners’ find plenty to love
about the Holland America ship, including its many musical and culinary experiences
the voyage from Civitavecchia, siastic followers. flourishes and, because it is fully a
By Karl Zimmermann Rome’s port, to Fort Lauderdale, la carte, pricey.
Fla., we would see how well the ship Neptune and Pinnacle Suite If you go
ABOARD THE NIEUW STAT- and its crew performed. Dining report passengers (or others paying a
ENDAM — Maiden voyages are Our group of nine chose the sec- daily $50 per person fee) can
catnip for ship enthusiasts and Music for all ond sitting in the dining room choose the intimate Club Orange, Holland America, (855) 932-1711,
cruise-line loyalists. Of the 2,093 “Our goal is to have the best live (open seating was also available), new with this ship, featuring the hollandamerica.com. HAL’s 15
passengers aboard the Nieuw Stat- music at sea,” Ashford said. The and we tried four of the five spe- regular dining room menu with ships call at 450 ports worldwide.
The Nieuw Statendam will sail
endam on its December maiden anchor is Music Walk, with live cialty restaurants. a few additions such as surf and
from Fort Lauderdale, Fla., to the
voyage, only 178 had never sailed performance venues: B.B. King’s Maiden-voyage glitches were turf, and enjoy some other perks
Caribbean through April 21, when
with Holland America. Blues Club, the Lincoln Center minimal, because 85% of the crew such as priority check-in and dedi- it will reposition to Amsterdam
The rest of us were repeat pas- Stage (sharing the same space) had come from HAL ships, half cated lines. for Baltic and Norway cruises. In
sengers whom the cruise line calls and Billboard Onboard. from the Konigsdam alone. At Blend, passengers can create September, it will cruise the
Mariners. The Nieuw Statendam All were introduced on the The food was good to great, their own wine styles, and at Notes, Mediterranean from
can carry 2,666, but this voyage was Konigsdam and are being added and the presentation was sophis- sample fine whiskeys. Civitavecchia and on Oct. 27 will
underbooked in case of vessel-re- to most of the 15-ship HAL fleet. ticated: Soups were always poured For breakfast and lunch, we pa- leave that port for Fort
lated teething problems, which The Rolling Stone Rock Room, a from pitcher to bowl at table, and tronized the Lido Market, well or- Lauderdale on a crossing similar
turned out to be few. classic rock club, is new to the the logo china was gone in favor ganized and a cut above average. to the one we took.
Holland America’s demo- Nieuw Statendam. of unadorned pieces suitable for For our morning cappuccino, we
graphic trends older and more tra- We caught most of the Lincoln the meals selected. usually chose the Grand Dutch
ditional. Because my wife, Laurel, Center performances, its pro- The dining room has intro- Café, a pretty Delft jewel box that In Cartegena, Spain, we visited
and I know the line well, especially grams set and musicians selected duced upselling, with a $20 charge nods to the line’s heritage with its the Spanish Civil War Museum and
the Konigsdam, Nieuw Stat- by New York City’s Lincoln for a broiled whole Maine lobster menu, décor and Dutch staff. Casa Romana de la Fortuna, de-
endam’s sister ship, we expected Center. We heard a quintet, made and $75 for a 36-ounce, bone-in picting family life in the Roman pe-
the familiar, but we discovered new up of a string quartet called Atlys rib-eye. Shore excursions riod.
features as well. and a pianist, that played pro- The specialty restaurants carry The Crow’s Nest was our other In Malagá, Spain, we went to Picas-
Besides the thrill of a maiden grams such as “Masterworks by a surcharge of $15 to $35, with coffee spot. Repurposed on Nieuw so’s birthplace.
voyage, a bonus was the presence Brahms,” “Movie Classics” and some discounts available for mem- Statendam, it’s now a place for Best of all was a van we hired
for three days of Orlando Ashford, “A Night at the Ballet.” bers of the Mariners loyalty club drinking, viewing or borrowing at the port of Funchal to take us
Holland America’s 48-year-old We also liked Billboard On- and others. a book from the ship’s skimpy li- into the mountains for a walk along
president. When he joined the now board, which featured a young Our favorite was the Asian-fu- brary. one of the island’s many levadas,
145-year-old line in 2014, he had ne- married couple playing dueling pi- sion Tamarind, which shares space It’s also home to Explorations small, open canals.
ver been on a ship. anos. Any song that “charted” was with a la carte Nami Sushi (the one Central, dubbed Exc, the shore Among the other highlights of
His presentation left no doubt eligible, and themes included “One specialty restaurant we did not excursions department that is our journey: Calm seas and perfect
that this was not our grand- Hit Wonders” and “British Inva- try). Canaletto, with an Italian ac- focusing on smaller-group on- weather for basking on our port-
parents’ Holland America Line. sion.” cent, is an evening venue carved shore experiences geared to spe- side cabin’s spacious veranda; two
“I avoid focusing on demo- Our crossing also featured the out of the Lido Market, as the buf- cial interests such as food, wine or performances by the Step One
graphics,” Ashford said, preferring Netherlands-based Tiny Little fet is now called. art. Dance Company, which made
“psychographics, matching the Bigband: vocalist Franklin Brown Pinnacle Grill, featuring Pacific This is a good direction, be- spectacular use of background vid-
brand personality with the person- backed by an excellent jazz trio. Northwest cuisine, seafood and cause it distributes passengers eos that washed across the 270-de-
ality of our guests.” Also marvelous was vocalist and steaks, is the longest-running through a port and mitigates their gree video screen; and the circular
He also identified what he stride pianist Judy Carmichael, Holland America specialty restau- effect to a certain extent. Promenade Deck, which made ex-
called the line’s “swim lanes”: whose two shows in the World rant and better than ever. Rudi’s We prefer to explore on our own, ercise inviting.
catering to music and food lovers Stage we wouldn’t have missed. Sel de Mer, an intimate brasserie and by docking downtown at all All were ingredients in a cross-
as well as “modern explorers.” For And the Rock Room and Blues conceived by master chef Rudi three ports, the Nieuw Statendam ing that was always satisfying and
the better part of two weeks on Club certainly had their enthu- Sodamin, is heavy on dramatic made this easy. mostly splendid.
L8 S U NDAY , JA N UA RY 27 , 2 019 L AT I M E S . C O M/ T R AV E L

THE CONCIERGE
GEO QUIZ TOURS &
CRUISES
The Jura mountain IRELAND
range extends along
the border between
France and which
Celebrate
landlocked country? St. Patrick
* Switzerland
* Austria
at a parade
* Hungary Celebrate St. Patrick’s Day
in Dublin on a six-day tour
Answer below. Source: offered by CIE Tours Inter-
National Geographic Bee national. Participants will
get a behind-the-scenes
look at preparations for the
TIPSHEET city’s parade and join a
Monster Towel FitKicks private party in the General

Dig into Post Office, one of Dublin’s


most famous buildings,
where they will watch the

the Year parade. Other highlights


include visits to the Wicklow

of the Pig
Mountains, Stone Age
tombs at Newgrange and
the ruins of Glendalough.
Dates: March 14-19
By Mary Forgione Price: From $1,490 per
person, double occupancy.
On the lunar calendar, the Includes five nights’ accom-
Year of the Pig starts Feb. 5. modations, five breakfasts
Here are five places to em- and two dinners, and trans-
brace the Pig, which rules portation. International
until Jan. 24, 2020, when the airfare not included.
Rat takes over. Info: CIE Tours Interna-
tional, (800) 243-8687,
Portland, Ore. lat.ms/stpatricksdaydublin
Head to Portland for a — Anne Harnagel
chance to meet Shadow, a
friendly New Zealand Biaggi My Audio Pet

Kunekune pig. The long- MONSTER TOWEL , clockwise from top left, is good for a crowd; foldable FitKicks allow full range of
NORWAY
haired creature will be hold- foot motion; golf-ball-size My Audio Pet generates a big sound; Biaggi is easy to stash and expandable.
ing court at the Lan Su
Chinese Garden from 2-4 GEAR
Ferry to fiords

Small things, big effects


p.m. Feb. 5, 8 and 15 (in-
Explore the rugged coast-
cluded with $10 general
line, fiords and islands of
admission). Feb. 17-19, you
western Norway on an inde-
can see glowing red lanterns
pendent tour that features
and an illuminated dragon
coastal travel by ferry and
($15-$45).
inland transportation by
Info: lansugarden.org private minivan. This new,
eight-day 50 Degrees North
BY JUDI DASH >>> Discover hidden pockets in a big towel that packs small; get plenty of tour begins in Bergen,
Toronto
Activist and sculptor Ai
traction with featherweight amphibious footwear; power up cute acoustics from tiny, ani- where participants tour the
city and then board a ferry
Weiwei created bronze sculp- mal-shaped Bluetooth speakers; and grow a stashable pouch into a wheel-aboard bag. to Kalvag, a picturesque
tures of the 12 creatures in
fishing community. From
the Chinese zodiac that Big spread shoe has stretchy, breathable span- An LED indicator light and
there, they travel overland
toured the world’s museums. A large lightweight microfiber dex uppers that allow plenty of toe- chimes show when the animal is up
on a hop-on, hop-off mini-
Last year he used colorful towel can be a great multitasking wiggle room. and running — about four contin-
van. Travelers can hike
Lego pieces to create por- take-along, good for lying on the Black pebble-ridged rubber soles uous hours on a charge — and a
glaciers, see waterfalls and
traits of the Pig, Monkey, Rat beach and drying off. A big towel also provide protection and traction yet built-in microphone can be used for
visit small towns and local
and others in a work called can cushion delicate items in your allow full range of foot motion, so phone calls. The power button can
museums.
“Zodiac.” See them Feb. luggage, fold into a pillow and double you can point, twist or flex. They activate a cellphone’s camera func-
28-June 9 at the Gardiner fold in half for packing. FitKicks tion for selfies on the go. Date: Weekly from May to
as a wrap-around bathrobe twisted September, with Friday
Museum in Toronto. and tied behind the neck. come in solid colors and whimsical My Audio Pets are available in 17
patterns in men’s, women’s and big-eyed animal shapes and include departures from Bergen.
Info: gardinermuseum.on.ca The Monster Towel is a 100-foot-
square (roomier than a king-size children’s sizes. a lanyard. Price: From $2,207 per
bed) multitasker made of suede-like For extra warmth, a version called person, double occupancy.
Seattle Cost, info: My Audio Pet Animal-
absorbent microfiber. The towel rolls KoziKicks (available in women’s Includes seven nights’ hotel
Shaped Wireless Bluetooth Mini
Money and prosperity are up to 15 by 5 inches. An included sizes) is lined with fleece. A women’s accommodations, some
Speakers cost about $30 at
themes for Chinese New carry strap secures the roll tight at Maritime model has white pebbled meals, transportation be-
myaudiopet.com
Year, which is why a visit to both ends. soles to prevent scuffing boat sur- tween destinations, activ-
Seattle’s 550-pound bronze The towel has large corner anchor faces. ities and tours. Interna-
piggy bank should be on your pockets you can fill with sand to keep Cost, info: FitKicks cost $20 to $24 Space changer tional airfare not included.
calendar. Rachel the Pig has it weighed down in place at the in men’s and women’s sizes; $18 in Most expandable luggage has a Info: Fifty Degrees North,
stood beneath the Pike Place beach. You can stash your keys, FitKids styles; Fleece-lined Kozi- zipper around the perimeter, that, (888) 880-0286, lat.ms/west
Market sign since 1986, col- wallet and other small items in an Kicks are about $30; Maritime mod- when unzipped, provides an inch or ernfiordstour
lecting about $20,000 a year inconspicuous sewn-in zippered el, $23; fitkicks.com so of extra storage room. The new — Rosemary McClure
to help the needy in her pocket (although the towel can be Zipsak Boost from Biaggi starts as a
community. Add your dona- stolen). Bluetooth buddy stashable nylon pouch, unzips to
tion, then share a selfie on The Monster Towel comes in become a 22-by-14-by-9-inch-deep MEXICO
Rachel’s Instagram site. seven colors, air-dries quickly and is The penguin, goldfish, monkey
carry-on with four spinner wheels,
Info: lat.ms/rachelpiggy
bank
machine washable and dryable.
Cost, info: The Monster Towel costs
and panda Bluetooth speakers from
My Audio Pet can boom surprisingly
handles on the side and top, and two
exterior zippered pockets.
Cleansing detox
big sound for such tiny audio devices,
about $90; monstertowel.com Unzip the wrap-around zipper Kick off your wellness goals
which are about the size of a golf ball.
Las Vegas just above the wheels, and the Boost for 2019 with a detox pro-
The colorful creatures have multiple
A shoe-in for comfort lengthens to a 28-inch check-through gram at Rancho la Puerta in
Eight is considered lucky in little holes in their heads for belting
suitcase. The Boost weighs less than Tecate, Mexico. Choose one-
the Year of the Pig, which is Imagine your feet could roam free out whatever’s streaming plus a
4 pounds. to three-day juice cleanses,
why the Bellagio Conserva- and unencumbered by shoes but built-in rechargeable lithium-ion
tory and Botanical Garden shielded from hazards. FitKicks may battery that charges using an inte- Cost, info: Biaggi Zipsak Boost, in a offered Saturdays through
created eight piglets as part be the next best thing. The light- grated micro USB port (cable in- choice of six colors, lists for $95; Wednesdays through Feb-
of its Chinese New Year floral weight hybrid slipper/loafer/water cluded). lat.ms/biaggiboost ruary, or try a two-week
display. The show features retreat in March or Septem-
other good-luck new year ber. . Five spa therapies and
icons: blooming cherry trees, consultations with Michael
Chinese Fu dogs and giant DEAL OF THE WEEK Finkelstein, author of the
ancient coins. It’s free and book “Slow Medicine,” also
continues until March 9.
Info: lat.ms/bellagiogarden Tahiti airfare and are offered during the detox
retreats.

San Francisco
The golden dragon Gum
hotel from $1,499 Dates: Short-term retreats
in January and February,
two-week courses are March
Lung is the star of San Fran- Want a tropical escape? Air Tahiti 16-30 and Sept. 14-28.
cisco’s Chinese New Year Nui has an airfare-and-hotel Tahiti
Parade, one of the oldest and deal that starts at $1,499 per person. Price: From $2,959 for one
biggest in the U.S. It takes person for a four-night stay,
more than 180 men and The deal: The Take Me to Tahiti va- including a one-day juice
women to carry the 288-foot cation includes round-trip airfare cleanse, in January or Feb-
figure through city streets. from Los Angeles and round-trip ruary. Rates for the 14-day
The parade will be 6 -8 p.m. ferry transportation to the neighbor- detox programs start at
Feb. 23; you can watch for ing island of Moorea. Visitors spend $12,200 per person, double
free or buy $35 tickets for five nights on Moorea at the Manava occupancy. Includes fitness
seats in the viewing stands. Moorea Beach Resort and Spa, classes, meals, accommoda-
which includes a daily buffet break- tions and transportation
Info: chineseparade.com from San Diego Interna-
fast. You must book by Feb. 15 for
stays through Aug.13. Blackout dates tional Airport on Saturdays.
apply; offer is based on availability. Info: Rancho la Puerta,
Manava Beach Resort and Spa
(858) 764-5500, rancho
GEO QUIZ ANSWER: Info: lat.ms/airtahitinuideal DOES FIVE NIGHTS at the Manava Beach Resort and Spa sound lapuerta.com
Switzerland — Mary Forgione good? The Air Tahiti Nui deal also includes a daily buffet breakfast. — Rosemary McClure

AIRFARES

ATLANTA CHICAGO DENVER HONOLULU LAS VEGAS NEW YORK/NEWARK, N.J. PHOENIX SAN FRANCISCO SEATTLE WASHINGTON, D.C. $699 TO AUSTRALIA
Fare: From LAX, $699
LAX $318 $254 $202 $449 $98 $388 $138 $88 $157 $303
round trip, including all
SNA 326 318 222 552 122 388 166 88 158 348 taxes and fees, to various
cities in Australia and New
BUR 326 294 242 521 146 384 167 92 168 356 Zealand, which allows a
LGB 335 318 232 409 119 364 186 104 158 353 stopover of 72 hours or less,
on Fiji Airways.
ONT 318 303 222 560 192 379 167 112 160 378 Restrictions: The fare,
subject to availability, is for
INT’L AUCKLAND, NEW ZEALAND* CABO SAN LUCAS, MEXICO LONDON* PARIS* SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA* TOKYO* VANCOUVER, CANADA travel from Wednesday to
Dec. 10. Tickets must be
LAX $903-$1,326 $228 $546-$1,171 $752-$1,241 $747-$1,312 $766-$1,257 $270 purchased by Feb. 8.
Info: (800) 227 4446,
Restricted round-trip airfares are researched on Thursday, the day before the Travel section goes to press. Fares change daily, and availability is not assured. Fares, which may involve a change of
planes, are for airlines serving Los Angeles International (LAX), Orange County/John Wayne (SNA), Hollywood Burbank (BUR), Long Beach (LGB) and Ontario (ONT). Domestic fares and interna- fijiairways.com
tional airfares include taxes and fees. *These international fares vary because of differing fuel surcharges on different airlines. Sources: Sabre reservation system, airlines and Web. Source: Airfarewatchdog

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