Choosing a motorhome

There's greater choice than ever in the motorhome market, with a wide variety of
manufacturers having representation in the UK. With such a choice of what will be both your
means of transport and accommodation, it pays to take time, do your research and have a
good look around before you make that final decision to buy.

This Data Sheet is aimed primarily at those who are new to motorhomes. Whether you're
buying new or secondhand, and whatever your budget, this Data Sheet is a starting point,
giving basic guidelines on the key aspects involved in making sure you buy the right unit for
you. A great way to find out more, speak to like-minded individuals and to get out exploring is
to join the Club.

Types of motorhome
You'll have already noticed motorhomes come in many different shapes and sizes. Here are a
few of the main types:

Panel van conversions: These are vans with little in the way of exterior modifications (save
the addition of extra windows, usually) whose interiors have been kitted out for camping,
which is why they are also called campervans. Most panel van conversions have limited
headroom unless the original fixed roof is replaced with a high-top roof or an elevating roof
where hinged roof sections, with canvas or solid sides, lift up for extra headroom and/or beds
when on site. The advantage of elevating roofs is they can keep the vehicle at a height to
enable it to access car parks with height barriers.

Types of motorhome (continued)

Coachbuilts: These start life as a cab and chassis to

which a converter adds a caravan body. These are either low-profiles or overcab models - the
former offering a lower, more streamlined roofline over the cab area, the latter having
sufficient interior space for a double bed on top of the cab.
A-class: Here, a chassis cowl (just the engine and chassis) is the starting point, with a full
caravan shell added to make optimum use of the interior space. For example, a full-size, drop-
down double bed above the cab area is a common A-class feature.

RV (Recreational Vehicles): Bigger and pricier than most UK motorhomes, RVs usually
offer domestic quality facilities in more spacious surroundings. Many are imported from
America, though there are some European models available.
Others: Most motorhomes fit into these three categories, although there are niche vehicles
such as car-derived motorhomes and demountables - the latter where the caravan unit is fixed
to the back of a pick-up for travel. Also, self-built motorhomes are not uncommon. If the
vehicle is not from a well-known converter, it should come with an engineer's report proving
all gas and electrical installations are to the required safety standards.

Who makes motorhomes?

Just as there's a massive choice of motorhomes, there is an equally bewildering array of

motorhome converters. These range from large manufacturing concerns based throughout
Europe and beyond with networks of appointed retailers, to small converters, some of whom
will build to individual requirements and sell direct to the public.

Among the bigger brands, key names to look out for include Auto-Sleepers, Auto-Trail,
Bailey, Elddis, Romahome and the Swift Group (Swift, Bessacarr and Autocruise brands), as
well as a whole host of manufacturers from mainland Europe including Adria, Burstner,
Chausson, Dethleffs, Hobby, Pilote, Hymer. But note that some imported motorhomes may
have the habitation door (the entrance to the living quarters) on the UK offside.

Smaller, UK-based more bespoke outfits include the likes of Bilbo's, Murvi, IH, Nu Venture,
Reimo and more.

One key thing to remember is depreciation rates. Motorhomes generally have high residual
values, but standard models from mainstream makers are especially likely to hold their value.

Cabs

Typically, most motorhomes betray their commercial vehicle origins in the cabs. Although
most built since the late 1990s have come with power-assisted steering, it's only recently that
items such as twin airbags and air-conditioning have become more readily available. Plus, if
you want a better-than-average stereo system (although again bear in mind most motorhomes
are a lot noisier than modern-day cars), you'll probably have to specify it as an option.

The most popular motorhome base vehicles are the Fiat Ducato (also marketed as the Peugeot
Boxer), the Volkswagen Transporter, the Mercedes Sprinter, the Ford Transit and Renault's
Trafic and Master. Each come with an array of engine, overall specification and even payload
options - be sure to check these out carefully to ensure you know exactly what you are
getting.

You can request a test drive if you are close to making the decision to buy. If you're driving a
motorhome for the first time, remember motorhomes are based on commercial vehicles and
have different driving characteristics to cars. Larger motorhomes can have considerable tail
overhangs (the distance between the rear wheels and the end of the vehicle) that need to be
taken into consideration in general road use as well as for tight manoeuvres.

Layouts and facilities

In their role as - homes on wheels, all motorhome interiors are a compromise between space
and specification. Take into account the number of occupants, who will sleep where and
whether they can travel in seats designated for travel, as well as your priorities for kitchen and
washroom equipment and space.

Smaller motorhomes can be easier to park and store, while obviously larger units offer more
interior space that can be so vital, especially if you're considering using your vehicle over
longer periods of time.

Most motorhomes can accept an awning, which adds extra living space. Similarly, some
owners like to make their vehicles even more versatile with the addition of bike racks, extra
storage boxes and so forth.

Consider also when you'll be using your vehicle. For example, if you're planning extensive
winter use you'll need to ensure the location of water tanks and plumbing are capable of
coping with extremes of cold. In hotter climates you might consider an air-conditioning unit
for the living quarters.

The majority of motorhomes have their own mains hook-up, allowing you to plug into a 230V
electricity supply on a UK site. This is often allied to a charging system and a 12V leisure
battery supply. Here are some other aspects to consider:

 Sleeping berths and ease of bed making. Recent trends point towards the increasing
popularity of fixed beds, with bunk beds being especially popular with children. Make
sure you're happy not just with the size, but the location of the beds, especially the
overcab bed where head space can be limited and access not always easy. Ventilation
and heating can also be issues here.
 Kitchen facilities. You can expect to find fridge/freezers, full cookers, microwaves and
hot and cold running water in a modern motorhome, or just a couple of gas rings. As
well as the location of such items, check also for workspace and overall storage.
  Washroom facilities. Expect anything up to plumbed-in, water-flushing toilets and
large shower cubicles. Space is often at a premium here, especially if the washroom is
to double up as extra storage space or drying rooms for wet clothing and the like.
 Lounging. Seating is another matter of personal taste. If TV-watching is a priority,
consider where the TV will go as well as whether the seating arrangements are
suitable.
 Storage. Layout often dictates how much space is left for storage, and the other items
you want to take with you may determine your storage preferences (bikes, fishing
gear, outside chairs and tables, barbecues and more). Floor plans that include fixed
beds often mean large storage areas under the beds themselves, which may be
accessible from outside. Another fairly recent trend is for "garage" models, normally a
coachbuilt motorhome with a large exterior-access storage area at the rear.
 Winter travel. If you're likely to camp in colder weather consider choosing a unit with
an insulated water system so it will still work on a freezing morning.

Top tips

 Timing is important. Prices are likely to be at their highest immediately before Easter,
when the touring season starts. They'll generally be lower at the end of the season but
if you buy in the quieter season be sure to factor in any possible additional costs
incurred over the winter period, such as storage.
 After determining your budget and preferred layout, make a list of features and fittings
you want in your ideal motorhome - then decide whether you consider them essential.
 Consider hiring. This gives you a taster of the touring experience and will help you
make an informed choice on the type of layout you may wish to have. The Club's
website has a list of motorhome hire companies throughout the UK, you can find these
in our help and advice section.
 Make notes of the exact make and model you view and especially like. You'll be
amazed how easy it is to forget.
 Check if a secondhand motorhome has any outstanding payments due on it by
contacting HPI (0845 300 8905, hpicheck.com).
 Look into the logistics and possible costs for repairs. Spares availability may not
always be good - items of equipment such as heaters and fridges can be easy to source,
but often replacement body panels and items of trim are tricky to track down -
especially on vehicles no longer in production.

Where can I buy a motorhome?

Exhibitions can provide an ideal opportunity to see a range of units

There are a considerable number of ways to purchase a motorhome:

Specialist retailers. Use a business directory, the internet or listings in motorhome magazines
to find dealers near you. As well as benefiting from product knowledge and the ability to carry
out any servicing and repair work, purchasing from a specialist retailer gives you more legal
rights - all the way up to rejecting a vehicle if it's subsequently found to be "not fit for
purpose". Also, you'll probably get a warranty of anything from three to 12 months on
secondhand vehicles that usually covers both the mechanical and the conversion work of the
vehicle. Needless to say, the nearer a dealer is to your home base, the better in terms of travel
time and costs saved when any servicing is required.

Private purchase. Keep an eye out for the small ads in your local press as well as specialist
motorhome and Club magazines. There's usually a genuine reason for selling and prices
should be less than from a specialist, although you forego some legal rights as well as any
kind of official warranty when you buy privately. The same applies for motorhomes put up for
sale privately over the internet.

Auctions. These tend to be the preserve of those who are "in the know", yet nevertheless offer
the potential to pick up a bargain.

Shows and other special events. There are plenty of outdoor and indoor motorhome
exhibitions. They're often ideal for general "shopping around" and advice gathering - and you
can sometimes pick up end-of-season bargains here. Before you buy at an event, check where
the seller is based and whether you will need to travel far if you need to get something
checked under the warranty or for servicing.

Making your purchase

There is usually some leeway on price, but you'll probably strike a better deal if you ask for
extras and increased warranties rather than just hammering down the advertised price.

If you're happy with everything - from price to delivery times - you're in a position to pay a
deposit, the amount of which is negotiable. Remember that deposits are rarely returnable.
When you come to collect your vehicle, you should get a full handover when all the
equipment is explained. Some dealers even offer the facility to stay on a campsite locally - an
ideal opportunity to make sure everything works and that you know how to use it.

And remember, always get a receipt from the seller when you buy or pay a deposit.

Viewing secondhand motorhomes

Here are some handy viewing tips to consider when looking at previously-owned vehicles.

 Always make initial viewings during daylight hours. It's too easy to miss things in the
dark.
 It's not hard to find previously-owned motorhomes that have obviously been well
looked after. Exteriors should be free of any damage or signs of major repair work.
Check leading edges especially and scrape marks on wing mirrors. Slight changes of
colour can indicate panels have been replaced.
 Water ingress can be a problem with coachbuilt motorhomes. Check the exterior
sealant condition and ask for the results of any damp tests.
 Exterior locker doors should open and shut easily and locks should work.
 Check items such as corner steadies and retractable steps, if fitted, are fully
operational.
 Tyre condition. Many motorhomes have long periods of inactivity and though the tyres
may look serviceable they'll have aged. It may seem counter-intuitive but an idle tyre
ages much faster than one frequently use. For more detailed information about tyres
and tyre care, see Data Sheet 15.
 Inside, although you're unlikely to be able to use the living equipment, do go through
the motions of bedmaking (this will also ensure no cushions are missing), using the
kitchen (cooking, washing-up), washroom (shower, toilet, handbasin) and using other
facilities. Is there enough space? Do major items fall easily to hand?
 Try all the seats for comfort. Foam can lose its springiness over time. This, and indeed
upholstery, can be replaced, but at a price.
 In the cab, try the driving position for comfort as well as ergonomics, particularly the
external views via the mirrors.
 It might sound obvious, but make sure you are happy with interior colour schemes and
furnishings (or feel happy you can adapt them to your tastes - extra cushions, carpet
runners and similar can make a big difference).


 Secondhand motorhome dealers will often offer a warranty on the vehicle

Ask to see all documentation - full service history (covering both the base vehicle and
the conversion), uninterrupted record of MOT tests, receipts for any service, warranty
or repair work as well as the vehicle's own history (number of owners, etc).

 Motorhome dealers should be able to offer up to one year's MOT test certificate and
tax, as well as evidence that the vehicle has been fully inspected and any major repair
work undertaken. Warranties ranging from three months to a year or more are also
likely to be offered and can be a good bargaining point.
 Motorhome mileage is rarely an issue. Consider anything between 4,000 and 6,000 a
typical average annual mileage. MOT test certificates will verify any mileage claims.
 If you buy privately, the address at which you view should correspond with that on the
vehicle's V5C certificate (log book). Give yourself plenty of time to inspect a vehicle
in your own time as well as getting the seller to take you through it. Never arrange to
view a vehicle at a location such as a motorway service station.
 Consider using the services of an independent specialist motorhome inspector. If you
can't find one in your local telephone directory, your nearest motorhome retailer
should be able to offer a contact.
 Ask about options - determine whether they are factory-fitted or retrofit items. If the
latter, ensure they've been fitted by a specialist.
 Owners- manuals are usually vague, but can be a useful starting point. Any
motorhome should also come with operating manuals for all major items of equipment
in the conversion.
 Always leave room for negotiation on price, for example on additional items supplied
and extra warranty. If you're completely new to motorhome ownership you'll probably
need items such as gas cylinders, levelling ramps, etc.

Travelling in London

If you are planning to take your motorhome into Greater London you'll need to consider the
area's Low Emission Zone (LEZ). The restrictions of the LEZ are greater since 3 January
2012, motorhomes with a Gross Vehicle Weight of more than 2,500kg need to meet specific
environmental standards.

All vehicles registered as new after 1 October 2006 (1 January 2002 for vehicles between
2,500kg and 3,500kg) are assumed to meet these standards and those registered before 1
January 1973 are exempt. Others may need to pay a charge of £100 or more for each day they
drive in the LEZ, with high penalties if you don't pay.

For more information see www.tfl.gov.uk/lez or call 020 7310 8998.

Travelling

If you've not driven one before, you may be pleasantly surprised how easy it is to drive a
motorhome - whatever its size. Key benefits include being higher up (for superior views out)
and large wing mirrors. Other factors include:
  Diesel or petrol. For economy reasons, diesel has been the preferred fuel option in
recent years, usually with the added performance that turbocharging brings. Fuel
consumption varies from vehicle to vehicle as well as with individual driving styles.
Engine size isn't always the best indicator of its suitability - compare power and torque
outputs.
 Most motorhomes have a manual transmission though automatic is more widely
available now.

Further reading

Key magazines are: Motorcaravan Motorhome Monthly (MMM), Practical Motorhome and
Which Motorhome. Also, Motorhome & Caravan Trader and Caravan, Motorhome and
Camping Mart.

Books include The Motorcaravanning Handbook and The Motorcaravan Manual, both by
John Wickersham.

Motorhome safety and the law

There are several key aspects which could have significant impact on your choice of
motorhome:

 You'll need to check the limits of your driving licence before you take to the road with
a motorhome.
 Data Sheet 40 - driving licences has detailed information about the limitations of a
licence.
 Seat belts. You will still see some new motorhomes with more sleeping berths than
belted travelling seats. Since 20 October 2007 seat belts have not been permitted on
side facing seats because their use in the event of a crash can cause injury. It is not
recommended for passengers to travel without seat belts on the grounds of safety and
in some circumstances it could be considered illegal.
 Payload. As owner, it is your legal duty to ensure you do not overload the vehicle
beyond its rated gross weight or axle limit. Remember your available payload reduces
when items are added as fitted extras so check that sufficient payload is available for
the number of people and kit you intend to carry. For details see below.
 Speed limits. If your motorhome has an unladen weight of less than 3,050kg normal
car speed limits apply, unless you are towing. Above this (or if you have more than 9
seats) in most cases you'll be restricted to 50mph on single carriageways and 60mph
on dual carriageways, though the limit is still 70mph on motorways.

Loading your motorhome

It's tempting to think you can put as much as you like into your motorhome because it's based
on a large van that can carry heavy loads, but this isn't always the case.

Your unit will have a set user payload - the amount of extra kit you can transport - that
depends on its construction. In some cases this may be restricted because of the chassis it's
built on. In others it may be ar tificially limited so those with specific driving licences can
drive it or for other reasons. In these cases you can ask your motorhome supplier to uprate its
classification so you can carr y a larger payload.

It's also important to consider how you position the payload in your unit. Each axle has its
own loading limit, which you must not exceed when you're on the road. In most cases, the
majority of the weight of the engine, fuel and passengers will be over the front axle so your
luggage and other loads should be positioned over the rear axle (see the diagram above).

The best way to make sure you're motorhome is correctly loaded is to pack it and take it to a
weighbridge to check the loads on each axle. Contact your local Trading Standards office or
go to www.gov.uk/find-weighbridge to find your nearest public weighbridge.

If you have feedback on our new format Datasheet, please let us know, using our short
Feedback Form.

The Top 10 Questions Before You Choose

An RV
By Dee Montana

The first barrier to living the RV life, is discovering which type of RV is right for you. Do
you want a big rig or a camper van? Will you drive a Class A or a bus conversion? Should
you explore a Class C, or will a travel trailer work well with your truck? In the beginning,
there are lots of questions. Yet asking questions is a good thing! Here are the:

Top 10 Must Ask Question Every New RVer Needs To Ask BEFORE Buying A Rig:

When my husband and I first started shopping for RVs we were completely confused. We
didn’t know a Class A from a Class B. We spent months researching forums, consumer
reports, and Facebook. In the process, we discovered the top questions anyone new should
ask. (And very few do!)

1. What type of camping do I want to do?

As seen on CNN, New York Times, and CNBC: Find out how much money you can make
renting your RV Click Here

From the start, we knew we would be full-timing in our RV. We also knew we would be
glamping, not camping.

This should always be your primary focus. The type of camping you want to do will dictate
your rig. Do you like primitive camping? If so, you may want a pop tent or a travel trailer.
Do you prefer to GLAMP? You might want an airstream, vintage or a big Class A. Camping
is a lifestyle choice, and in this day and age it can be as fancy or basic as you want.

BEGINNERS GUIDE TO RVING Download

 GUIDE TO RV BOONDOCKING Download

RV LIVING A STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE Download

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2. Where do I want to camp?

Knowing the types of places you want to camp is critical when choosing an RV. If you love
the great outdoors, you may want to stay in the national or statewide park systems. There are
thousands of beautiful, affordable spaces all over the U.S. The problem? Most campsites
aren’t designed for big rigs. If you want to stay within the public park system, consider an RV
that is 35 feet or less. In fact, most people suggest 32 feet or under. The public park system is
a breeze if you are using a camper, a camper van, or a small travel trailer. With a small unit
you can park almost anywhere.

Do you want to park in full-amenity RV parks? If so, a large Class A would work great. RV
parks vary from place to place, and not all RV parks are big-rig friendly. The larger the RV,
the more things you need to consider. Will the park have 50-amp power? (Most new, big rigs
run on 50 amps as opposed to 30 amps, which is in many of the state parks.) Are the sites
pull-through, or will you have to back in? Is there room for a tow car or trailer?

For us, we knew that we would be less likely to stay in state parks due to the size restrictions.
We planned to full-time, and knew we would need a larger rig to do that. We also knew that
camping in the wild wasn’t as important to us as good internet and close proximity to towns.

Simple rule of thumb:

Small is easy for parking, but tight for living.

Large is easy for living and tight for parking.

3. Will I travel consistently or stay in one place?

The bigger the RV, the more fuel it will take. If you plan to stay full time on a lot or RV space
with full hookups, you will want an RV that meets your day-to-day, living needs. An RV is a
lot like a vehicle and less like a house. It won’t wear like a stick and brick residence, so be
prepared for the maintenance.

If you plan to live “off grid” on BLM or private land, you need an RV that has large holding
tanks and solar capabilities. Many recreational vehicles are low to the ground. Living off the
beaten path means choosing something that can go where you want to go, without damaging
the RV.

We looked at a ton of RVs. Most were flimsily built. Because we planned to call our new rig
home, we wanted to buy something that was built as much like a home as we could afford.
We planned to stay in one place for a few months at a time, and we wanted to have the ability
to “dry camp” off the grid, on the weeks that we were “on the road.” Once we had a clear
idea of our priorities, choosing an RV was a much easier process.
divinefactory.net

4. How many people/pets will I travel with?

Choose an RV that works well with your family unit. Do you have pets? Do they go
outside? Are they large or small? Do you have kids? Where will they sleep? Where will
they study? Do you need space for a play pen? Each of these questions will help refine your
list of perfect RVs. Remember, many RV parks have rules about pets and children. In
addition, extra bodies mean extra space. If you have children you may want to consider a
bunkhouse-style RV. If you have large dogs, you may want a large Class A or Class C, if they
will be inside.

We travel with four (yep, I said four!) indoor cats. This is our family, and we knew we would
not be leaving them behind. Needless to say, living in a camper van would not fit our family,
but that doesn’t mean it wouldn’t work for yours.

5. Do I have a truck to use? Is the truck BIG enough?

Lots of RVers choose to pull a travel trailer, or a fifth wheel, because they already own a
truck. This is a good idea in theory. Unfortunately, your truck size must match the size of the
fifth wheel or trailer you plan to pull. Many a time, new RVers find themselves needing to
purchase a new truck after they purchased their fifth wheel. Do the research first, and don’t
assume you will save money using the truck you have. You may discover that a fifth wheel
and truck (one that’s big enough to pull the fifth wheel) costs as much or more than the Class
A motorhome that you really wanted. Take the time to get the facts.
Initially, we planned to buy a fifth wheel and truck. Since we planned to full-time, we wanted
a big fifth wheel. The sturdier the fifth wheel, the heavier the unit and the heavier the unit,
the bigger the truck. By the time we had picked the right toy hauler, we found that we now
needed a dually diesel. That’s when we realized that a Class A motor coach was just as
affordable as a fifth wheel. This shifted our gears completely.

6. What is my budget?

Budget. The dreaded word. As a new RVer, you will need to decide on a budget. How much
can you afford to spend on your new unit? Remember, when you purchase an RV, you are
purchasing an apartment-on-wheels, and they are priced as such. Let’s say you plan to spend
under $50,000 on an RV and you do not have a truck. Great! You have just eliminated a
bunch of confusing choices. You will not be able to purchase a new class A or C Motorhome
for under $50,000, so you immediately know you need to buy used. If your budget is
$200,000, you have a variety of choices, but you may still not be able to buy the level of
motorhome you want. Decide on your budget first. This will help you determine whether
you will search for a new or a used rig.

Our initial decision to buy a fifth wheel and truck took a turn, when our budget was
unexpectedly cut. The good news is, because of the cut in our budget, we found the perfect
Class A, which we hadn’t considered before the change. You never know what the future
holds, but your budget is a key part of choosing the right RV.
7. Who’s going to drive?

Driving a big rig takes a certain finesse, and it is definitely NOT for everyone. If you plan to
share driving responsibilities with your loved one, you must choose an RV you are both
comfortable driving. If you aren’t sure, take a few test drives and see which type of unit feels
best. After all, you will soon be driving your home. Recreational vehicles are just like cars.
Each one handles differently. Find a style, size, and comfort level that fits your family’s
needs.

I knew from day one that I would NOT be driving a big rig. When pulling our car, we are 65
feet long, which is 50 feet too long for me! Decide what you are comfortable with and stick
to it.

Refrigerator bars Photo credit: Camco.net

8. What are the three most important features for my lifestyle?

Living in an RV is like living in a tiny house, and you will probably need to downsize. Some
items are easy to give up, while others seem more important. What so you consider essential?
Here are a few things to choose from:

Bunk beds

Dishwasher

Washer/Dryer

Porcelain toilet

Flat screen TV

Pantry

Diesel Engine

Storage

Adequate basement storage

The ability to go anywhere

The ability to tow

Desk

Multipurpose Areas

Multiple sleeping areas

Two bathrooms

Easy to Back Up

Our priorities were a solid build, a diesel engine, lots of storage, and a neutral palette that I
could customize to feel like home. Originally I wanted a washer/dryer in the unit, but
eventually decided that was less important to me than a solid build. Decide what’s most
important to you. You will have to make compromises, but know what you are willing to go
without, and what is a done deal.
9. Will I finance?

If you plan to finance a new or used RV, your first step is getting approved. Once you know
how much you can spend, it will be easier to shop. If you qualify for $25,000, remember that
it doesn’t mean you have to spend that much. Look at the monthly payments and create a
mock budget. Remember, in most cases you will need to pay to park somewhere. Don’t
forget to factor that into your monthly expenses. If you are buying with cash, then your
available cash will determine the type of RV you need. For instance, if you have $100,000 in
cash, and you want to buy new, you will not be able to purchase a new diesel pusher. Mark
that off your list and move on. What can you buy with your $100,000, and which one best fits
your needs?

Our goal was to minimize our payments in every area possible. We already had a car
payment, so we wanted to buy something with cash. Consider your personal financial goals,
and decide what’s best for your family BEFORE you pick the perfect RV.
10. How long do I plan to RV?

Will you RV on the weekends for a couple of years? Are you planning to sell it all and travel
full time? If you plan to make RVing your lifestyle, don’t be surprised if your “perfect rig”
changes over time. Many full-time RVers start with a big rig and downsize over time. Others
start small and move up. As they travel they discover the perfect fit for their personal
lifestyle. Don’t worry. You will too. If you are buying an RV for weekend getaways, think
about who you will be taking with you, and for how many years. If the kids are small now, do
you want an RV that will give them plenty of space as they grow? Or would you rather
upgrade when they get older? Your answer may determine your choice of rig.

Truth is, we have no idea how long we will RV. It might be one year and it might be ten. You
may not always have the answers, but it’s worth asking the questions. You never know what
new truth you will discover!

In the end, we found the perfect big rig for where we are right now. Your perfect RV may be
a converted van or an Airstream you can pull with your SUV. Your first step is to ask
yourself the hard questions, tally the answers, and see what you come up with. One answer
will lead you to the next. Before you know it, the right RV will be sitting in your driveway
ready for your first big adventure.

What questions did I forget? Any other suggestions for people picking an RV? Leave
your comments, share us, like us, and tweet us. We’d love to hear your thoughts!

Rhonda Garriott
So many great tips! Thank you for sharing this article.
Like · Reply · 1y

Kenneth Gladman
I like that you mentioned the size, not just for your family but storage as well. I would want
something that we could fit comfortably in. This makes being on the road so much easier.
http://www.pettibonerv.com
Like · Reply · 1y

Jackie Musiol
Thank you for writing these wonderful tips! I’m a first time RVer, and I needed to read this!
Like · Reply · 1y

Moira Blythe
My husband and I are looking to get an RV. We love camping and I think it would be helpful
to us to not have to set up a tent every single time we go camping. I appreciate your advice to
make sure that we know the type of places that we want to set up camp before we buy an RV
since not all campgrounds are built the same way.
http://www.ibuyrvmotorhomes.com/services
Like · Reply · 51w

Bill Rich
I think first and foremost is "keeping it real". Stop the dreams and get down to reality. And
much of this article covers just that. Thank you. I shook my head when I read that you will
NOT be driving the rig. That's an unfortunate thought. What happens when you're on the road
and your husband becomes unable to drive? Young or old, we don't know what life will bring
from one day to the next. I think it would be best to have the option, and the freedom, to
continue on, otherwise, it would appear that your options are limited. Don't want to be on the
road for a long time, having fun, then feel as if you're stuck. We are 65 and 62 thinking about
full time RV. In good health now, but medical needs is something to think about. All the "what
ifs" come into play. It's a big decision. Whatever move we make, will most likely be long
term. Thanks again.
Like · Reply · 39w

The Only Guide You Need to Buy an RV

Everything to consider when buying an RV for the first
time
By Melissa Popp

Updated 12/04/18

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ATU Images/Photographer's Choice/Getty Images

Buying an RV isn’t an easy decision to make. It’s more than just buying an RV. It’s learning
how to drive or tow it. It’s learning how to do your maintenance and when to take it to the
shop. It’s learning how to overcome the sticker shock of gas prices versus mileage.

Buying an RV is a long-term, adventurous investment that isn’t right for everyone. If you’re
considering buying an RV, this is the guide you need to understand the big picture that comes
with that investment.

© TripSavvy 2018
What to Consider When Buying an RV

When you're ready to make the plunge, you must consider the following before budgeting for
an RV:

 Why are you buying an RV?

 Who are you buying an RV for?
 Where do you plan to travel with the RV?
 Do you prefer to tow a trailer or drive a motorhome?
 What features do you need?
 What features do you want?

It's important to narrow down exactly what you need as opposed to what you want before you
buy an RV. One of the biggest benefits of owning an RV is that you can customize and add
features to it down the line, as you would a home or condominium. This means options you
might wait to invest in are projects for the future, which will save you money when budgeting
now.

What Type of RV Do You Need?

There are two things you need to consider before buying an RV: What type of RV do you
need, and do you want a new or used RV? There are motorhomes and towables.

Motorhomes can be driven and towables, well, they need to be towed by a separate vehicle.
Depending on your comfort level, towing can be as expensive as buying a motorhome. It
comes down to the towable you opt to buy, such as a fifth wheel RV or a travel trailer.

If you want to tow, that'll require you to invest in a towing vehicle, such as a truck or SUV. If
you don't already own a vehicle capable of towing an RV, this is an added expense to factor
into your budget. If you do own a towing vehicle, then it's a matter of getting comfortable
with driving while towing.

Pop up campers, truck campers and small travel trailers are often the best way to ease into the
RVing lifestyle. For those looking for more room, investing in a mid to large travel trailer or
fifth wheel RV is the way to go.

While most towables from campers to fifth wheel RVs offer the same functionality and
features, sometimes it’s all about the size of the trailer or RV due to the comfort level of those
traveling and using it.

Read more about RV types with our expert guide here.

Financing an RV

Once you’ve settled into what type of RV you need, you’ll need to work out your budget and
financing. Most RV dealers offer to finance through a variety of lenders. You can also take out
a vehicle loan from your bank or a third party to help finance it.

Depending on your credit score, how much you’re willing to put down for a down payment
and other factors, financing may be easier said than done.
If you can finance through your dealer, you’ll get interes rates closest to what your bank
would offer with good credit. If you finance through a third-party lender, you’ll often pay a
higher interest rate. It’s important to make sure you can afford the monthly payments on an
RV or trailer, along with looking to pay it off early whenever possible.

Read more about RV financing with our expert guide here.

What You Should Know About Buying New RVs

When buying a new RV, you're getting a model that's between a few weeks and a couple of
months off the assembly line. In some cases, you may even be getting an RV or trailer straight
from the manufacturer. This means that the RV is brand new with the features or
customizations you chose at the dealer. This is the most expensive option for buying an RV
beside building one from the ground up through a manufacturer.

Pros of Buying a New RV

 You get a brand new, top of the line RV off the assembly line
 Full manufacturer warranty starts the second you make the buy
 You don't have to worry about damage, wear, and tear or issues when driving off the
lot for the first time
 Custom options, such as color choice, room layout, and more are available
 Can get exactly what you want for the price you want off the line

Cons of Buying a New RV

 Can be expensive depending on the features you want

 Not all RVs and trailers are customized through the manufacturer, requiring more
expenses in the future
 May have to go out of your way to having a trailer or RV shipped if local dealers don't
have one in stock
 Insurance premiums will be higher
 May have to invest in a towing vehicle

What You Should Know About Buying Used RVs

When buying a used RV, there's no telling how long it's been since production. The wear and
tear on a used RV can cause issues you have to fix. Buying a used RV is done through a dealer
or a third party, such as on Craigslist or a private seller. When you buy a used RV, it is buyer
beware because you never know for sure what might be wrong or what you'll have to fix in
the future. These fixes can add up.

Pros of Buying a Used RV

 You save a significant amount of money

 Can opt to rebuild, redecorate and restore the RV to your liking
 May be able to find the exact RV you want that's not currently in production
 Insurance will be cheaper for a used RV
 Can take the time to customize, repair, and upgrade components
Cons of Buying a Used RV

 You never know what might be wrong with the RV

 You may not be aware of how depreciated the RV is in value
 Damage may not be visible, which means you'll invest more repairing the RV with or
without insurance deductibles
 Often the manufacturer’s warranty has run out
 Can spend a considerable amount of money on upgrades

Read more about avoiding scams with used RVs with our expert guide here.

Should You Buy a New RV or a Used RV?

New RVs and used RVs both have their place for RVers. When starting out, it's cost efficient
to buy a used RV. You're safer if you buy a used RV from a dealer than a private buyer, but
you can still run into issues that are a pain to deal with. When buying a new RV, you're
covered by the manufacturer's warranty and any extended warranty you buy through the
dealer. If something goes wrong, you have a safety net. That's not always true when you buy
used.

Other RV Expenses to Consider

Keep in mind that buying the RV itself is only half the battle. There are a handful of extra
expenses that come with buying an RV, such as:

 Insurance and gap coverage

 Maintenance and repair costs
 Insurance and registration
 Gas, propane, and fuel
 Access to cable and the internet
 Where you’ll park during trips
 How you’ll make meals

How to Get the Best Price on an RV

Want the best deal on an RV? Consider these nine tips for negotiating a better price on an RV
at the dealership:

 Leave all your options open when looking at RVs

 Watch auto finance rates from your bank and dealers
 Be patient and wait for the right deal to come along
 Consider an RV show to find a once in a lifetime deal
 Buy at the end of RV season or the end of the month
 Be friendly with your salesperson
 Take risks when asking for a better deal
 Find the right incentives that make the price tag more worthwhile

Read more about negotiating the best price on an RV with our expert guide here.
What's RV is Right for Your Travels?

When you get started RVing, it can come at a high price: Sticker shock. RVing is expensive.
It's not just buying a new or used RV. It's also parking, maintenance, repairs, insurance, and
everything between. It's food for on and off the road. It's entertainment once you park.

For some families, this may not be possible, and that’s why buying used might save them
money. For others, they’re ready to invest upfront and take advantage of the savings down the
line.

RVing is a long-term investment. If you go into the buying process understanding that you’ll
be able to make the right financial choice for you and your family. While RVing will save you
up to 50 percent in the future on vacations, you’re going to need to put a significant amount of
money upfront to get started.

Choosing a Motorhome
Selecting the best motorhome that meets your wants and needs
Article Date: November, 2017

Article and Photography by Mark Quasius

So, you've decided that you want to take the plunge and buy a motorhome. That's great! The
RV lifestyle is one of the best things you can do for yourself. It's proven that RV owners are
generally more healthy than the general public and deal with far less stress. You'll be able to
travel and see the country at your own pace, sleep in your own bed and just pick up and move
whenever you feel the urge or don't like the weather or surroundings.

But not every motorhome is alike and it's important to select the particular motorhome that
best suits your intended style of travel. If you wind up with a motorhome that doesn't mesh
with what you expect then it won't be an enjoyable experience and you won't be very happy.
Learning about the pros and cons of the various types of motorhomes will help you hit a
bullseye when choosing your motorhome.

Unlike a sticks and bricks residence, a motorhome is a depreciable asset and will lose value as
it ages. If you are looking for a great financial investment, an RV is not for you. However, you
can't take it with you and the investment of joy that it can bring you is priceless. The
memories you have of your travel will last forever and most buyers who take the plunge into
motorhome travel wish they would have started sooner in life.

Motorhome Classes

Motorhomes are categorized by classes, such as Class A, Class B, Class C, and a few
variations of these classes. Class A motorhomes are built on a commercial chassis and the RV
manufacturer mounts the house structure on top of this chassis. Class A coaches have a bus
style look with a flat front end although actual bus conversions are technically not class A
motorhomes. They are complete bus shells that have been converted to motorhome use and
are generally high end luxury coaches with the ultimate in amenities and stratospheric price
tags. A true Class A motorhome can be powered buy either gasoline or diesel engines and
these engines can be located in the front of the chassis or the rear of the chassis. Prices range
widely from entry level to high end luxury coaches.

Class C motorhomes are built on a cutaway chassis, which uses a truck cab section and open
frame rails behind for the RV manufacturer to build their coach bodywork. This cab has the
rear wall cutaway and blends into the main living area of the coach for access from the
cockpit area. Class C motorhomes have a cab-over section over the cab which increases space
and are less expensive than a similarly equipped Class A motorhome.

Class B motorhomes are the smallest and are basically passenger vans that have been
converted into compact motorhomes. Most of these units will have a raise roof for increased
interior space. Class B coaches will generally have basic comforts such as a sink, water heater
and sleeping facilities. A recent trend has been toward B+ motorhomes, which can be
identified by a cab-over section similar to a Class C motorhome.

Class A Diesel Pushers

Okay, lets start at the top of the list. A Class A diesel pusher is the ultimate Class A coach. The
diesel engine is located in the rear of the coach so is commonly referred to as a pusher. The
diesel engine drives the rear axle via a transmission and very short drive shaft. Air brakes do a
better job of stopping a heavy vehicle than hydraulic brakes so the majority of diesel pushers
will be equipped with air brakes although some smaller entry level coaches may come with
hydraulic brakes. Air-ride suspensions offer a smoother ride than leaf or coil springs and will
be found on all of the diesel pushers except for the most cost-conscious entry level units.

As the size of the coach goes up, so does the weight. Axles do have weight ratings that limit
how much can be safely carried. Longer and heavier coaches are often equipped with tag
axles which is an axle that is located just aft of the rear drive axle. It doesn't provide any
propulsion because it's not connected to the driveline but it does provide additional weight
carrying capacity. It also reduces the amount of rear overhang behind the drive axle which
makes for a more stable ride than a coach with a single rear axle. Lastly, it also adds a third
set of brakes to the coach, increasing its stopping power by approximately 50%. On coaches
over 40' in length a tag axle is a mandatory feature.

A diesel engine produces more torque than a gasoline powered engine. Torque is what gets
you up the hill and diesel engines produce torque and horsepower at a much lower RPM than
a gasoline powered engine. A gasoline engine will need to constantly downshift to increase its
revs as it climbs a hill or mountain grade. Coupled with the fact that gasoline engines are
located up front by the driver while diesel pusher engines are located in the rear of the coach a
diesel pusher offers a much quieter ride.
Diesel pusher cooling systems can be of two different designs, either rear radiator or side
radiator. Rear radiators aren't as effective at cooling because they are located in a low pressure
area of the coach when traveling so are typically quite large in size. They are generally used
on lower horsepower engines and block off access to the engine compartment from the rear of
the coach. Dipsticks and coolant overflow reservoirs are located within easy reach but any
major service work, such as a fan belt change, will need to be done by removing access panels
in the rear bedroom of the coach to gain access to the engine. As the horsepower of the engine
increases, so does it's need for improved cooling. For this reason the higher horsepower
coaches utilize a side radiator design which is more efficient. These radiators are located just
to the side of the coach where there is better airflow and will be physically smaller in size.
This also allows easy access to the engine from the rear engine access cover, making service
work much easier.

Diesel pushers can come with either solid I-beam front axles or independent front suspension
(IFS). On a typical highway it's hard to tell the difference between the two but once the road
gets a bit bumpy the IFS will give you a smoother ride because each wheel is independently
responding to potholes and bumps wheras a solid axle tends to transmit these vibrations
across the axle to both wheels. In addition, IFS gives you better control over the vehicle in the
event you experience a steer tire blowout and also minimizes the side to side rocking of the
coach when entering a driveway approach at an angle. IFS does add more complexity and cost
to the chassis so you'll see more IFS on higher end coaches than entry level pushers.

Large diesel pusher coaches actually are not hard to drive. In fact, the high view allows the
driver to better see what lies ahead and anticipate lane changes in advance. While most first
timers are wary about driving "such a big beast" they soon find out that their concerns were
unfounded and the coach was quite easy to drive. Obviously as the size increases, so does the
need for parking space. You won't have a problem driving through a place such as
Yellowstone National Park in a Class A motorhome but don't expect to be able to find a place
to park and watch the wildlife. For that you will need to tow a smaller vehicle behind the
motorhome, oftentimes referred to as a dinghy.

Class A Gasoline Powered Coaches

Class A motorhomes look much like their bigger diesel pusher brethren at first glance but
there are notable differences. Gasoline powered coaches generally are of a front engine
design. with a long drive shaft connecting the engine and transmission to the rear axle. Front
radiators are also used so it's easy to identify a gasoline powered Class A by looking for a
radiator grill at the front of the coach, which is not found on a diesel pusher. Gasoline Class A
motorhomes are very price sensitive so air-ride suspension and air brakes will not be found.
They are also lighter than diesel pushers so will be found in shorter lengths. Amenities are
limited to keep them affordable but some of these units are very well equipped indeed
including toy hauler versions with a rear garage as shown in the image above. While the
chassis of a gas Class A is quite different from a diesel pusher, many of the attributes are the
same. You'll still have the higher point of view, the need for a tow vehicle, and other attributes
so much of what applied to a diesel pusher will apply to a gasser.

Class C Motorhomes

Class C motorhomes are sometimes called mini-motorhomes and are easily identified by their
cab-over structure. The cutaway chassis plus a box offers a more affordable way to enter
motorized RV travel. In the past, the cab-over's overhead bunk offered enough additional
sleeping space that many larger families chose a Class C coach over a Class A just for that
reason. However, recent advances in Class A motorhome have resulted in the availability of
bunk bed floorplans as well as motorized beds that lower from the cockpit ceiling so the
advantage that Class C motorhomes once had has since been eclipsed by the latest Class A
coaches designed for these families. However, a Class C still has a lower cost than a similarly
appointed Class A so it remains a popular entry level coach.
For many years the Class C coach market was dominated by the Ford E350 or E450 series van
chassis, which is being phased out. Smaller Class C coaches are now being built on the Ford
Transit Van chassis or larger coachesd on the Ford F series chassis. One popular segment in
smaller Class C coaches is the Mercedes Sprinter chassis, which is equipped with a fuel
efficient 3.0 liter diesel engine that delivers excellent fuel economy. Class C motorhomes do
have smaller holding and fresh water tanks than their Class A cousins, which is something to
consider if you will be traveling or dry camping without regular campground hookups.

Super C Motorhomes
Super C motorhomes are still Class C motorhomes but instead of a lighter van style chassis
they are built on medium duty or even class 8 heavy duty truck chassis. This results in a diesel
powered Class C coach with serious towing power, cargo capacity and basement storage. A
Super C can offer the ultimate driving experience compared to a forward control Class A due
to the extended front axle but this also takes away some of the interior living space compared
to a Class A coach of the same length due to the extended hood and engine compartment. A
Super C can make a great toy hauler because there is plenty of room for the garage and plenty
of power and towing capacity plus the higher ground clearance can allow the Super C to get
into terrain that might damage a Class A coach.

Class B and B+ Motorhomes

Class B motorhomes are the original van campers and feature a van with a raised roof. Their
living space and amenities are limited but they make great touring coaches because they can
get into places and park where larger motorhomes can't fit. This market segment is growing
quite rapidly in recent years and a large percentage of these are the B+ motorhomes, which
feature a cab-over section that can be used for sleeping, storage or as an entertainment center.
You won't get a full suite of amenities in a motorhome of this size but not everyone needs the
extra room of a Class C or A motorhome and just wants something to tour with. If your travel
plans are based on two persons, you don't mind using campground showers and restrooms and
want your motorhome to be able to drive to your sightseeing destination without the hooking
up and unhooking of a towed vehicle a Class B or B+ can be a great choice. B+ motorhomes
are commonly found on either Ford or Mercedes Sprinter chassis and can be an excellent
bridge between a van camper and a Class C.

Slideouts

Slideouts are commonplace in the motorhome world and even offered on some Class B
motorhomes. Slideouts offer additional room when camping by extending the floor space.
Slideouts do add to the vehicle weight so lighter motorhomes may only have one or two slides
while the larger Class A coaches may have four slides or even a large full-wall slide. Full-wall
slides are different because they combine two adjacent slides into one large slide. This opens
up the entire area on one side of a coach, creating a more open look. This also creates some
structural concerns because that is a large open area in the sidewall and something has to hold
the roof up. Typically larger headers are employed to provide adequate support for the roof
but these headers can cut down on the slideout height which may necessitate having smaller
windows or eliminating overhead cabinetry. This varies from brand to brand but it is
something to consider when shopping the various motorhomes. Some manufacturers choose
not to use full-wall slides but instead have created quad slide floorplans that keep a small
center portion between the two slides to support the roof while still giving that open look to
the floorplan. Then again, you should ask yourself if you really need to stand at the front of
the coach and see all the way into the rear bathroom.

Floorplans

Anyone's number one criteria when selecting an RV is the floorplan. Not everyone has the
same ideas and tastes so RV manufacturers produce motorhomes with a number of different
floorplans that appeal to different buyers. You'll be living in this RV so you want to make sure
that the motorhome that you choose is best suited for your needs. There are only so many feet
in a motorhome and if you expand one area you take away from another so there are always
compromises. Take a look at the galley area. If the motorhome has a large lounge area with
wide sofas and a large entertainment center the odds are good that the galley has been made
smaller to allow for that. That's fine if you prefer to dine out for your major meals but not so
great if you plan on doing a lot of cooking. Finding the floorplan best suited for you will
undoubtedly be the most time consuming portion of your search for an RV.

When you shop for a motorhome at a dealer or RV show you will most likely see them on
display with the slideouts extended and some plastic fruit and photos added to give it more of
a lived in look. That's fine if you want to see how the floorplan lays out when camping but
doesn't show you what the coach will be like when driving. When you find a coach that you
are interested in be sure to view it with the slides retracted for travel. Some coaches can have
very narrow aisles that make it difficult for passengers to get to the bathroom when under
way. Imagine yourself eating lunch at a rest area in this situation. Also, loose furniture, such
as ottomans, have to go someplace when the slides are retracted. If you have to stack them
under the dinette table you won't have room for your legs while seated there for lunch and if
they sit on the sofa during travel your passengers won't be able to use it. Be sure that you can
still open cabinet drawers in the galley or bedroom when the slides are retracted as well.
These are all factors that need to be considered prior to the purchase rather than finding them
out the hard way once you get home.

Motorhome Length

The common statement is to buy your last motorhome first. But this rarely happens because
you never quite hit the target as to what you need or want until you've had some experience
with the various motorhome styles, floorplans and features. The most common misconception
is to not want to buy a motorhome longer than xx number of feet so that you can get into
some of the older state and private RV parks. However, the campsites at these older parks
generally were built back in the day when coaches were shorter and didn't have slideouts.
Since then, things have changed in the way RVs are made but the only thing that changed at
these campsites is that the trees and shrubs have grown up and filled out. Chances are good
that the length of your motorhome won't be the determining factor as to whether or not a
campsite is suitable. It's the width that will determine that. 8' wide motorhomes are now
commonly 8'-6" wide and have slideouts that you won't be able to extend without hitting trees
or brush that encroach on your campsite.

Maintenance
Any RV will require maintenance and motorized RVs also have a chassis and drive train to
service and maintain. These costs can vary depending on the type of motorhome as well as
your ability to perform DIY service work. Gasoline powered motorhomes aren't that much
different than a pickup truck when it comes to your basic oil changes. If you are now doing
this yourself the motorhome can also be another driveway project. If you have this done at a
service facility then you need to make sure that your coach fits into their service center. A
small class C can be handled by most places but a 12' tall Class A might be more challenging
and will require service at a truck service center, which has higher labor rates.

Diesel powered motorhomes with air brakes take service requirement to a whole new level.
The larger engines used in most diesel pushers can require 28 quarts of heavy duty oil rated
for diesel engines and some engines can hold as much as 50 quarts of oil. If you are handy
and have a few 5 gallon buckets and a place to dispose of the old drain oil you can still do this
yourself but if not, you'll need to visit a service center familiar with working on trucks or
large motorhomes and those costs can add up fast. There are also more filters to deal with on a
diesel pusher, which are larger and more expensive. The air brake systems also need regular
service of the air dryer so costs do add up. The good part is that diesel engine service intervals
are based on time or mileage, whichever happens first. The mileage interval of a diesel engine
is higher than a gasoline engine so you can rack up more mileage on a diesel powered coach
than on a gasser before requiring service. However, the majority of motorhome owners don't
put on that many miles so service becomes an annual thing based on time rather than mileage.
These are all things to consider but if you want to buy a larger motorhome you will want the
power and improved fuel economy of a diesel engine.

Summary

Choosing the best motorhome for you is an important step. Be sure to spend enough time
researching the various models and brands. Give the first impression time to wear off so that
you aren't being overly influenced by the glitze and glamour of a staged product. Give serious
consideration as to how you intend to use the motorhome and spend time searching for one
that best fits your criteria. Ther are lots of them out there so don't be locked into whatever a
dealer has in stock and wasnts to move. If you can't find what you want place an order for one
that will have what you want. Also, take test drive to find out how they handle. Some coaches
tend to wander around a bit while others drive straight as an arrow. Do your due diligence up
front and you'll have many happy miles of enjoyable travel.

Choose the right floorplan

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23rd September 2010

Benjamin Davies

See other Advice articles filed in ‘Buying a motorhome’ written by Benjamin Davies

With the vast number of floorplans out there, choosing which motorhome is right for you can
be a daunting decision. So follow our ten step guide for some handy pointers…

With the vast number of floorplans out there, choosing which motorhome is right for you can
be a daunting decision. So follow our ten step guide for some handy pointers…

Size

Among other decisions you must make are: what weight of vehicle you can legally drive, the
amount of space you have in which to park the motorhome, and what size of ’van you feel
most comfortable driving. Confirm these points before looking at any motorhomes because
you will invariably want to buy the biggest model possible to gain the maximum amount of
living space. Try to be realistic in your choice.

The future
Consider a change of circumstance. If your eldest child has just got married, or you plan to
have a child yourself, how could a floorplan cope with new occupants, or visitors for a day, or
a week? Maybe you will retire soon and take longer trips, or perhaps visit friends in the UK?
If you’re a couple, will there be enough room to keep out of each other’s hair?

Beds

Fixed beds are the most comfortable, but they have their limitations. Corner beds have cut-off
corners, reducing one partner’s legroom.

Overcab and garage beds may have restricted headroom and one partner will have to climb
over the other to leave the beds during the night. Mattress quality is worth checking, too.

Ambience

Colour is a matter of taste, but how might the fabrics wear over time, and would they be likely
to put off other buyers when you come to sell? Consider how different styles favour certain
seasons: dark woods can be a bit oppressive in summer, and bright colour schemes can appear
cold in winter. Try to assess how much daylight the windows and rooflight will provide on
dull or rainy days.

Washroom

If you plan to stay on sites all the time, the loo or shower space is not a major consideration.
Many washrooms are narrow, so the simplest way to test whether there’s enough room for
your needs is to physically act out showering and washing. If you plan to camp away from
facilities, how easily can all occupants get to the bathroom in the morning?
Internal design

Is there enough headroom for you to be able to stand up straight, or manoeuvre easily? Can
two people pass each other when one is seated or working in the kitchen? Can you get to the
loo when other occupants are asleep? If children will use the motorhome, are there separate
areas where they can read, sleep and keep their things?

Seatbelts

Many ’vans only have two belted seats; also, some travel seats are not permitted to be used on
a 3.5-tonne chassis (to which some drivers are restricted). But more seats don’t mean a bigger
motorhome: some campers can seat up to seven, while most coach-sized US RVs seat only
two. Using some or all of your travel seats will take up part of your payload.

Kitchen

Consider storage space, equipment and worksurface area. Are you likely to use an oven or a
separate freezer compartment enough to justify the space they take up? If you only plan to
stay on sites with electricity, think about a microwave. If you’re unsure about how much
space you will need, consider what you would cook in a week’s touring.

Dining

How many people can sit at the table and comfortably reach their plates? Check for table
extensions and adjustment mechanisms. If there are swivel cab seats, can the height be
adjusted so that shorter occupants can reach the table? Also, can both swivel seats be occupied
without neighbours knocking knees? Finally, how easy is it to serve food to the table from the
kitchen?

Lounge space

This becomes more crucial the longer you spend in the ’van. If you like reclining, is there
somewhere to rest your head or position a cushion? Could one of the beds be used as a sofa?
Could the swivel seats become recliners? If you plan to use your ’van for active family trips,
you may prefer a dinette (better for mealtimes than for lounging).