The Deardre “Dee” Johnstone Suzuki Sidekick front aluminum differential mount modification

Materials:
1. Length of ¼” steel flat stock at least 2 ½” wide and 24” long
2. Thick rubber strip at least 2 ½” wide
3. A M8 bolt, nut, and washer
4. Roll Duct tape or Gorilla tape
5. Cable ties

Tools.
1. Grinder with cut off wheels.
2. Basic hand tools
3. Welder
4. Drill
5. Bender (optional)
6. Bench vise
7. Clamps and welding vice grips ( Mole Grips)

3rd member preparation:

1. Figure out the approximate length of flat bar by using a piece of string,
a. Wrap the string it around the third member in line with where the original mount is.
b. Mark or cut the string then measure the length of the string.
c. Once you have that number ( the thirds diameter ) you need to add at least 5 to 6 inches
or more to allow enough length for the flat bend on the open end of the hoop where you
run the bolt through to clamp it together.
i. Also always remember when figuring out the measurements of the materials you
need for any build it is always better to have too much then not enough, so figure
the length you need and then add a couple inches.
Note: If your own welding skills are questionable you're best to borrow a friend who is really good at
welding as with the torsional stresses involved strong welds are important with this mod.

2. Take your grinder and shave the original factory mount off of the third member so it is flush with
the housing then you can accurately determine the sizing of the hoop. (when you’re close to
grinding it flush with the housing be careful not to grind to far, it’s better to leave a little nub then
to weaken the housing and remember aluminum is quite soft)
3. Heat up the flat bar and bend it into a circle, as mentioned above ,if you have a bender available
to you it makes this process a lot easier!
4. Once you have your circle "clamp" shape bend the open ends flat so you can drill a hole for a bolt
to secure the hoop once installed.
5. You are basically building a big clamp for the third member. Your bent hoop should be just slightly
bigger then the third member where the factory mount is/was.
a. What I did when installing my hoop was I wrapped the third member where the hoop was
going to seat with a piece of rubber (I used a slice of an old tire sidewall) and secured the
rubber with lots of duct tape. A couple of extra large zip-ties or pipe/hose clamps would
work too.
b. You can instead secure the rubber to the hoop it’s self with zip ties and duct tape, which
ever is easiest for you. The rubber allows the third to flex slightly when the truck torques
up and also acts like a shim so your hoop is more secure once installed. You'll want to
give the third a good cleaning before trying to tape down the rubber.
c. I recommend giving it a good once over with a wire cup on your grinder and then spray it
down this a degreaser or even better some brake cleaner!
d. You'll want to secure the rubber on the third for the final sizing of your hoop before you
go welding anything.
 6. When you bolt the hoop down around the third with the rubber in-between the hoop should be
quite tight on the third.
7. Once you have confirmed the sizing of your hoop is correct you're going to clean up the third
member mount that bolts to the frame crossmember as well as the approximate section of the
hoop where the third mount will be welded onto.
8. Remove any paint rust or debris from both surfaces. When prepping a surface for welding I like to
finish off by giving the surface a good spray with brake cleaner and wipe with a clean cloth to
make sure it's free of any oil or grease as for a good weld you want nice clean bare metal.
9. Now you weld your hoop to the mount where the original mount that you shaved off the third used
to bolt into it.
a. Make sure to be as accurate as possible with the position of the mount on the hoop
before you weld it. I recommend bolting the third mount to the crossmember then line up
the hoop while it's around the third and mark your position well.
b. You could also throw a couple of tacks on it to make sure the position is right and negate
the possibility of it shifting on you before you can lay a good bead on it.
c. You can weld it in place but then you run the risk of melting your rubber shim or cooking
the bearings and gear oil in the third, so better to do it on the ground or a bench away
from the third member.
d. This is where you need a really goods strong welds! When built and installed properly this
is a great mod that reduces a lot of the breakage that is inevitable when lifting and off
roading these otherwise tough little guys.
e. Not only does it stop the front housing/third member from breaking loose and getting
smashed to bits but it also reduces CV breakage, you’ll still snap CV’s just not as often!
This is a fairly advanced fabrication/mod so if you don't have the skills find someone who
does to help you! Good luck ! If you have any questions feel free to ask away! ;)

Note: I make no guarantees or promises regarding safety or durability. If you do this mod it is at your own
risk and I am in no way responsible for any improper fabrication , installation or damages that may occur.
Modifying and offroading any vehicle comes with risks. When you choose to partake in these activities
you must be aware of said risks and fully accept the consequences as your sole responsibility. With that
said... happy moding/fabricating and good luck! ;)Manage