FASHION MATERIAL &

PRODUCTION MANAGEMENT FOR

MERCHANDISERS
PATTERN MAKING

SUBMITTED BY:
ANSHU KUMARI
(MFM SEM-II)
 PATTERN MAKING
Pattern making is an art of manipulating and shaping a flat piece of fabric to conform to one
or more curves of the human figure. Creating basic patterns begins with a two-dimensional
piece of paper (for drafting) or muslin (for draping). Patterns confine the dimensions of the
figure by a series of straight lines and curved lines. A completed pattern has seam allowance,
pattern symbols, grain line and pattern information.
Pattern for a garment can be achieved by two methods:
 Flat Pattern Method
 Draping Method
We used the Flat Pattern method because of its ease and accuracy of sizing. Flat Pattern
Method is a method where in body or dress form measurements are taken for developing a
pattern. Following a logical stepwise procedure, the measurements are then converted into a
pattern. Flat pattern making should be done in conjunction with a dress form so that as the
design evolves, proportion and balance in the garment can be checked side by side. It is
important to transfer the pattern on to a muslin to test the fit, on a dress form or a human
figure.

Terminology
 Block
It is a term given to a very basic set of pattern pieces used to make
additional patterns of any style. It refers to paper cutting of basic
bodice, skirt, sleeve or any such basic pattern from which all the
other designs are developed. The Block normally represents the
dimensions of a specific form or figure. It has darts to fit to the
contours of the body but has neither any design features nor seam
allowances. It is the foundation used to make the pattern of a
design.

 Pattern
Pattern is developed from the block that includes all the information
needed for cutting and production of the garment including seam
allowance.

 The following should be included on a pattern:

o Grain line
o Centre Front or Centre Back
o Style number or Code number of the pattern set may which be evolved.
o AB 01 here AB identifies type of the garment and 01 identifies the piece number of
complete set. If there are 5 pattern pieces in a garment, the pieces will be numbered
as AB 01, AB 02, and AB 03.
o Pattern piece e.g. skirt front, skirt back, side front etc.
o Size as 32, 34, 36, or S, M, L etc.
o Cutting information - It should be clearly mentioned as to how many pieces are
to be cut e.g. Cut 1, Cut 2, Cut on fold.
o Seam Allowances
 Muslin
Muslin is used for making test fits. This is basically an unbleached plain-woven cotton fabric
available in light, medium and heavy weight. Medium quality muslin is generally used for
test fitting and draping.
 Grain line
Grain line is a line drawn from end to end on each pattern piece to indicate how the pattern
should align with the lengthwise grain of the fabric. Whichever be the direction in which the
grain line is drawn on the pattern, it will always be placed parallel to the selvedge on the
fabric.
 Dart
Dart is a wedge-shape or triangular shape marked on the pattern that controls the fit of the
garment.
Dart legs-The two sides of the triangular shape &should be of the same length.
Dart point - The point at which the dart ends.
Dart intake - The amount of suppression taken between the dart legs.
Apex - The highest point on the bust.
Darts radiate from the highest point of a mount on a body, these mounts are generally
rounded. If the darts on front bodice are stitched till the apex they would create a point on the
apex and strain the garment. The body is rounded and not pointed hence to avoid these strains
or pulls on the garment the darts need to be finished away from apex.

TOOLS & EQUIPMENTS REQUIRED

For Measuring
 Dress Forms: A standardized duplication of a human form, cotton padded and canvas
covered, set on a movable, light adjustable stand and compressible shoulders and sloper.
It is used to take measurements, develop patterns, fit garment samples, to alter garments,
to establish style lines for the garment.
 Measuring Tape: Measuring tapes are very essential for acute drafting and perfection. It is
used to measure a figure or a model form as well as drafting patterns. It is 60'' long and
½'' wide with metal strip on one side. Metal tips on either side help the tape to flat and
keep the ends from fraying.

Paper and Marking

 Pattern Paper: A pattern paper to draw the pattern on.
 Rulers: It is a 12"/24'' ruler used for drawing straight lines as per measurements. Wooden,
metal and plastic rulers are available. The marking and divisions on the ruler should be
clear and accurate.
 'L' Square: A 24"X14" metal ruler with two arms that form a 90-degree angle. To find a
45-degree angle mark outside and inside corners extend line through corners.
 Hip Curve: A curved ruler to draw curved lines for women's wear. Hip curves are
available in different sizes.
 Tailors' Chalk: It is available in various colours with fine edges and used for accurate
marking. These types of chalks rub off easily and can be used on right side of the fabric.
 Tracing Wheel: it is used to transfer lines or symbols from one pattern to another or from
final pattern to muslin or other fabric.

Cutting and Attaching

 Scissors: A cutting instrument, ranging in size from 8" to 12", with two sharply pointed
straight blades. Used to cut paper patterns and fabric. Paper cutting scissors and cloth
cutting scissors are different.
 All pines to pin fabric pieces together
 Tracing paper for tracing the pattern from paper to muslin.
 Steam iron to iron out wrinkles.
 Muslin

MEASUREMENTS
1. Front length (17”) - Shoulder neck intersection to waistline over the bust, take care to
measure with a hand under the bust.
2. Centre front length (14.5”) - Centre front neck intersection to centre front waist
intersection.
3. Shoulder to waistline (14”) - Shoulder tip to side seam waistline intersection (over the
sides)
4. Underarm seam (8”) - From a point X, 1" below the armhole to waistline intersection
at the side seam.
5. Shoulder length (5”)- From shoulder neck intersection to princess line and from
princess line to shoulder tip.
6. Width of bust (9”)- Width of bust measurement is from centre front over the bust to
point X on side seam.
7. Front waistline (71/8”)- From centre front waistline intersection to side seam waist line
intersection.
8. Front hipline (95/8”)- Place a pin at 7" below the waistline on centre front line.
Using this measurement as a guide, from the floor, mark horizontally on the dress
form, starting at centre front and continue to side seam (keeping it uniform
throughout). Put a style tape for reference and this is the hip line. On this line
marked by style tape, take measurement from centre front intersection to side
seam intersection.
9. Apex measurement (4”)- From the centre front to the high bust point keeping the tape parallel to
the floor.
10. Centre Front to the Princess line (27/8”)- From centre front intersection to princess line
intersection at waistline.
11. Shoulder blade (7”)- Mark a point Y on centre back such that, centre back neck
intersection to point Y is equal to 1/4th of centre back length. Shoulder blade
measurement is taken from point Y to armhole ridge keeping the tape parallel to
the floor.
12. Width of back (81/2”)- From point X to centre back keeping the tape parallel to the floor.
13. Back waistline (63/8”)- From centre back waistline intersection to side seam waistline
intersection.
14. Back hip line (9”)- From centre back intersection to side seam intersection on hip line
marked by style tape.
15. Centre Back length (161/2”)- From centre back neck intersection to centre back waistline
intersection.
16. Centre back to princess (23/4”)- From centre back intersection to princess line
intersection at the Princess Line waistline.

17. Centre Front length for lower garment (15”)- From centre front waistline
intersection at centre front down to the desired length.
18. Centre Back length for lower garment (15.5”) - From centre back waistline
intersection at centre back down to the desired length.
 PATTERN MAKING FOR A BASIC ONE DART SKIRT

STEP-1: Taking Measurements of a size 8 Body Form (in inches)

FRONT BACK
Front Waist Line 71/8 Back waist Line 63/8
CF to Princess Line 27/8 CB to Princess line 23/4
Front Hip Line 9 Back Hip Line 9
CF length for lower 15 CB length for 15.5
Garment lower Garment

STEP-2: Draft the front skirt block

Starting with the front skirt block, draft a rectangle that is 15 inches long along the grain line
(parallel to the selvedge). The width of the half front skirt block is determined by the front waist
line measurement, i.e. 71/8 inches. Label the corners A, B, C, and D as shown. Mark centre front and
the side.

Waist Line 1 L 2
A B

7”
G H
M

Hip Level
F E
Centre Front

8”

Hem Line
C D
71/8”

Sample Pattern

STEP-3: Determine the front dart distance

With the following guide, use your full waist measurement including ease (28 inches) to determine
your front dart distance from centre front to the first dart leg, which is 3 1/4 inches Starting from
centre front at A, measure over the amount of your front dart distance (3 3/8 inches) and mark 1.
Determine your front dart width which is 26/8 inches.
STEP-4: Draw the front dart
Divide your front dart width (26/8 inch) in half to find the centre of your front dart width (13/8 inch)
and mark L. Draw a straight line down from L to indicate your front dart length and mark M. Fold
your dart in half along the line drawn for the front dart length (L to M) and, using a tracing wheel,
score across the waistline over the dart bulk so that it is flush
with the waistline. Unfold and draw in the new shaping.
STEP-5: Draw in your front side seam and add grainline,
cutting instructions, and seam and hem allowance
Connect all the points in a fairly straight shape to create your
front side seam. If necessary, smooth the pattern at the high
and low hip points, but do not shave off more than 1/16 inch.
Add 1/2-inch seam allowance for cutting and a 1 1/2-inch hem
allowance.
STEP-6: Draft the back-skirt block
In a similar manner as above, draft the back-skirt block along with the darts. Mark centre front,
centre back, sides, extension, and fold line.
STEP-7: Trace the pattern on muslin
Iron the fabric (muslin) and fold it in half selvage to selvage and pin down pattern pieces, making
sure that you will be cutting on the straight grain. Transfer the pattern from the paper to muslin with
the help of tracing paper and the tracing wheel.
Make ½ inch seam allowance and cut the fabric along the seam allowance. Once the pattern pieces
have been cut, pin the darts using all pins.
STEP-8: Test fit on the Dress Form
Pin the skirt on the dress form for a test fit so as to check whether the fit of the constructed pattern
is accurate or not. Make alterations if the measurements vary.
 DART MANIPULATION

Darts help in shaping the fabric to fit

the body and thus provide comfort to
the wearer. They provide fullness to
natural body curves. Darts are very
rarely used for decorative purposes
like providing a design line. The
fitting, marking, stitching and
pressing of darts should be done
accurately.

To create new designs for garments,

it is specially used for ladies’
garments. It saves fabric wastage and
also use to remove excess fabric.
Darts are needed to turn two-
dimensional shapes into three-
dimensional shapes and to fit clothes
closely to the body.
Applying Dart Manipulation
The technique is applied when the dart of working patterns (bodice, skirt, sleeve, or any working
pattern) are relocated in the process of creating design patterns. To create a design pattern, the
design is analysed first to identify the location of the dart or equivalent before manipulating the
pattern.
Different dart locations:
Darts can be located in a number of different
places on a bodice to alter its style.
There are two methods of dart manipulation:

1.Pivot Method: In the pivot method, the dart is

pivoted on apex and dart is closed and pattern
opens on new desired line, the pattern itself
spreads on the new position, to create the new
design.
o First place a working pattern on a piece of
paper which is wider and longer than the
pattern.
o Pin it down with a push pin at the bust
point.
o Mark a point on the pattern where the
relocation of dart has to be made. In the
picture given beside the relocation is done to
the midpoint of arm hole.
o Now place it on the paper and trace the pattern from dart leg (A) to the new located point on
the pattern (C).
 o After reaching point C, pivot or rotate the pattern in such a manner that the original dart legs
B meets A.
o At this point it can be seen that the dart is closed. At the same time, it can be observed that
point C also moves.
o Now trace the pattern from the new location of C to combined dart legs AB.
o Remove the top pattern and it can be seen that a new dart is seen on the paper at armhole
point only.

2. Slash and spread method:

In the slash and spread method, as the name implies the pattern is slashed or cut
on the desired line and as the old dart or excess is closed, the pattern itself spreads on the
new position, to create the new design. Some of the new dart positions are illustrated
here.
o So, you take a one dart block.
o Slash the new dart position and close the old dart.
o Put the pattern on a bigger paper and trace it to get the new dart.