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France
Loire – Pays Nantais
Domaine de la Bregeonnette
Joseph Orieux founded this domaine in the town of Vallet in the 1960's and has been organic from the start, recently becoming certified (only 12
producers out of 600+ actually have the certification). Today, Joseph's grandson, Stéphane Orieux upholds his family's traditions of organic farming,
hand-harvesting, wild yeast fermentations, and long, sur-lie aging. Due to the many decades of experience, Bregeonnette has become a reference
point for other winemakers in the region who want to learn how to work organically in the vines. Even Marc Ollivier of Domaine de la Pépière consults
Stéphane when he has questions about organic treatments. The same care and dedication to quality is present throughout the entire range of wines.
Everything is harvested by hand, including the Gros Plant, and the top, single-parcel wine, "Clos de la Coudray", spends 18 months sur-lie.
Loire – Anjou-Saumur
Bertin-Delatte
In the past decade or so, the town of Rablay-sur-Layon has become a small hub for dedicated young winemakers in the Loire Valley. There’s a strong
community spirit – each year the town organizes a small music festival, and there is a cooperative grocery store in the town center. Geneviève Delatte
and Nicolas Bertin started out in the area working for other winemakers, and in 2008, they purchased their own small vineyard, a 1.5ha lieu-dit named
"L’Echalier". In 2012 they built a small home and winery at the edge of their vines and found a few other small vineyards in the hills around Rablay.
The winemaking philosophy is to keep things simple; accompany the vines, the grapes, and the wine. Spend a lot of time observing, intervene as little
as possible.
Mary Taylor
When founding partner Mary Taylor first fell in love with wine in the early 90s, it was the European classics that truly spoke to her and stole her heart.
As a young professional selling wine, she quickly learned to appreciate wine in the “Old World” way — not as a luxury good reserved for special
occasions, but a living agricultural product that belongs to everyday life. After many years working with the wines of Europe, Mary arrived at an
important insight. Left in the dark by decades of simplistic marketing efforts that placed grape above geography, American consumers needed a
brand they could trust to decipher the complex notion of terroir in a clear and straightforward way. Out of this realization, the “White Label” series
was born. Today, it is Mary’s mission to unlock the world of European appellation wines by working with individual growers in multiple villages — from
Bordeaux to Nîmes to Valençay to the Douro and beyond — who produce exceptional, regionally-distinctive wines at extremely accessible prices. In
the traditional spirit of the Old World, each Mary Taylor wine has been selected as a faithful ambassador of its geographic origin, true to local traditions
and the vision of the individual farmer who bottled it. All fruit is farmed sustainably or organically, only indigenous varieties are used, fermentations are
with native yeast, and only inert vessels are used for aging to yield a set of wines of genuine quality and integrity that will bring the magic of their
terroirs to life wherever you choose to enjoy them.
Vins Hodgson
The Hodgsons' story is irresistibly bizarre: they're Japanese-Canadian winemakers who've settled in Rablay-sur-Layon via Vancouver and the Tochigi
prefecture of Japan. Kenji and Mai met in Vancouver, where Kenji studied engineering before abandoning it to work as a wine writer. Further curiosity
led them to intern at wineries in BC and Japan. Along the way, they became interested in natural wine, experimenting with low-sulfur use and natural
fermentation, and tasting widely among the plethora of French natural wines imported in Japan. So in 2009, Kenji and Mai decided to up and move to
France to work harvest with the legendary Mark Angéli of Ferme de la Sansonnière in Anjou. A year later, with encouragement from natural Loire
luminaries like Olivier Cousin and Claude Courtois, they purchased their first 3ha of vineyards in Rablay-sur-Layon, and are finally producing their first
wines under their own labels.
Loire – Touraine
Domaine Courtault-Tardieux
As a teenager, Simon Tardieux began working in the vines of Catherine Roussel and Didier Barrouillet of Clos Roche Blanche. After university and a
short stint as a social worker, Simon decided to return to his hometown and get back to his true calling: working outside in the vines. The only problem
was that he didn’t have any vineyards. So, he teamed up with his neighbor, Alain Courtault, who has long been practicing organics (Alain was the
third producer in the region to practice organic viticulture, starting back in 1998). Together, they make a range of simple, eminently drinkable wines.
Domaine Guion
There are few properties in France that can boast such a great pioneering legacy in organic farming as Domaine Guion. In the 1950’s, the Guion
family established their farm in the heart of the Bourgueil appellation, a stone’s throw from the banks of the Loire River. Since it was a polycultural
estate, the family was able to live almost entirely off the land. By 1965, they began farming organically, with a holistic understanding of its effects far
ahead of their time. Since taking the reins from his father in 1990, Stéphane Guion has a put a much greater emphasis on viticulture, managing 8.5ha
of land. Quiet and curious, he is a well-respected member of the vigneron community in Bourgueil and is often consulted by other growers eager to
adopt organic farming practices. While Stéphane rarely appears at tastings and trade shows, it is clear that the extra time in the vineyards and cellars
is well spent. Situated on meticulously cultivated clay and limestone soils, the Guions’ vineyards range from 10-80 years old, with the younger vines
designated for the “Cuvée Domaine” and the older for the “Cuvée Prestige”. Stéphane prunes the buds rather than clusters to achieve a judicious
yield and hand harvests all of his fruit. In the cellar, he only employs native yeasts and allows a moderate maceration of the grapes. Once the bottles
are ready for aging, they are stored in a large cave shared with six other families that once served as a historic Resistance hideout during World War
II. Rustic, focused, and lively, with fresh acidity and minerality, the wines of Domaine Guion are known for their fine tannins, great aging potential, and
terrific price.
Le Sot de l'Ange
Quentin Bourse took over his friend's property in the Touraine subzone of Azay-le-Rideau, a winery that had been certified organic for years, and
started vinifying the way he learned. We originally met him years ago, and we've seen him working all over in various cellars and vineyards, listening
and watching those people we admire: The naturalists, the biodynamists (his last gig before setting up his own shop was at the legendary Domaine
Huet in Vouvray)… Basically, he's worked with everyone except the big, bad guys. Now, the work in his own vineyards is respectful of the earth it's
grown on, and what happens in the cellar is unobtrusive to the point where it's impossible to categorize a style of the wines other than "just damn
good". Well priced, super clean sans souffre (or just a little SO2 in the case of the Chenin), biodynamic wine, made by a new winemaker that we
believe will be one to watch in the years to come.
Ludovic Chanson
Having always had a passion for wine, Ludovic Chanson decided to leave his job in pharmaceutical research in 2007 and went to work for the
renowned Vouvray producer Vincent Carême. In 2008, he was able to purchase a 6.2ha property on the plateau near the village of Husseau, about a
five-minute drive outside of Montlouis on the left bank of the Loire River opposite Vouvray. The property is primarily planted to Chenin Blanc (5ha), but
there are also small plots of both Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. Soils here are very clay heavy with a deep limestone base, and many of the
parcels are littered with silex and flint. The average vine age is 40 years-old, and the estate was converted to organic farming in 2006 before Ludovic
took over, and he has since achieved organic certification. Harvesting is done by hand in small baskets in one pass for the Sauvignon Blanc and
Chardonnay, and multiple passes for the Chenin Blanc depending on the cuvée for which the grapes are being picked. Since Chanson’s first solo
vintage in 2009, he has always used native yeasts for fermentations, with no chaptalization, no enzymes or bentonite, and low to no sulfur additions.
Ludovic makes a full range of wines ranging from bone dry to demi-sec to pét-nats, all of which are pure expressions of Montlouis terrior.
Mary Taylor
When founding partner Mary Taylor first fell in love with wine in the early 90s, it was the European classics that truly spoke to her and stole her heart.
As a young professional selling wine, she quickly learned to appreciate wine in the “Old World” way — not as a luxury good reserved for special
occasions, but a living agricultural product that belongs to everyday life. After many years working with the wines of Europe, Mary arrived at an
important insight. Left in the dark by decades of simplistic marketing efforts that placed grape above geography, American consumers needed a
brand they could trust to decipher the complex notion of terroir in a clear and straightforward way. Out of this realization, the “White Label” series
was born. Today, it is Mary’s mission to unlock the world of European appellation wines by working with individual growers in multiple villages — from
Bordeaux to Nîmes to Valençay to the Douro and beyond — who produce exceptional, regionally-distinctive wines at extremely accessible prices. In
the traditional spirit of the Old World, each Mary Taylor wine has been selected as a faithful ambassador of its geographic origin, true to local traditions
and the vision of the individual farmer who bottled it. All fruit is farmed sustainably or organically, only indigenous varieties are used, fermentations are
with native yeast, and only inert vessels are used for aging to yield a set of wines of genuine quality and integrity that will bring the magic of their
terroirs to life wherever you choose to enjoy them.
Michel Autran
Although his first official vintage wasn’t until 2013, Michel Autran is already making a name for himself as one of the top producers in Vouvray. This
didn’t just happen out of the blue though, as Michel has quietly been putting in the work behind the scenes for many years now. Michel started off as
a doctor, working in emergency medicine for nearly 20 years, but somewhere along the way the wine bug bit. Despite being in his 40s, Michel
eventually decided a career change was the only solution and he set about acquiring the necessary experience, working with and learning from some
of the top Chenin producers in the world, people like François Pinon, Vincent Carême, the Joussets, Frantz Saumon, Ludovic Chanson, and more. In
2011, he was able to purchase just under 1ha of prime vineyards in Noizay to start, and slowly expanded to 3.8ha today. Farming is completely
organic, and due to the steepness of some of the plots a horse is necessary for the vineyard work. The vines are all very old, between 50-70 years,
and all replanting is with massale selection of old vines from Pinon. Harvesting is by hand and with multiple tries to ensure the small team of workers
make the best selection in the vineyard. Fermentation begins with native yeast in stainless steel before immediately being racked off by gravity into
barrel, some new, but most 4-12 years old and coming from friends like Carême or the late Stéphane Cossais. A small amount of sulfur is used at
débourbage if necessary, otherwise the wines are raised completely sans souffre. The resulting wines have it all: purity, elegant fruit, incredible length,
richness balanced by enamel-stripping acidity, and off-the-charts minerality.
Loire – Centre
Vincent Grall
Since 1999, Vincent Grall has quietly been making tiny amounts of Sancerre in his garage from 3.8ha of vines, making him the second smallest
producer in the region. The production is split between two white cuvées coming from two distinct sites that are each vinified and aged differently, per
the soil type. While the sites are blended, "Cuvée Tradition" is mostly from the silex soils around the main hill of Sancerre, Le Plateau, and is done
entirely in stainless. "Le Manoir" comes mostly from Le Manoir de L’Etang where the soils are more marl and clay, and is aged in 600L barrels that
are 3-4 years old. Although not certified, the soils are worked manually and organic treatments are used. The intention is to work as naturally as
possible in both the vineyards and the cellar, but they will intervene if they risk losing their crop in bad vintages. Unlike most Sancerre producers, all
harvesting is done by hand.
Mary Taylor
When founding partner Mary Taylor first fell in love with wine in the early 90s, it was the European classics that truly spoke to her and stole her heart.
As a young professional selling wine, she quickly learned to appreciate wine in the “Old World” way — not as a luxury good reserved for special
occasions, but a living agricultural product that belongs to everyday life. After many years working with the wines of Europe, Mary arrived at an
important insight. Left in the dark by decades of simplistic marketing efforts that placed grape above geography, American consumers needed a
brand they could trust to decipher the complex notion of terroir in a clear and straightforward way. Out of this realization, the “White Label” series
was born. Today, it is Mary’s mission to unlock the world of European appellation wines by working with individual growers in multiple villages — from
Bordeaux to Nîmes to Valençay to the Douro and beyond — who produce exceptional, regionally-distinctive wines at extremely accessible prices. In
the traditional spirit of the Old World, each Mary Taylor wine has been selected as a faithful ambassador of its geographic origin, true to local traditions
and the vision of the individual farmer who bottled it. All fruit is farmed sustainably or organically, only indigenous varieties are used, fermentations are
with native yeast, and only inert vessels are used for aging to yield a set of wines of genuine quality and integrity that will bring the magic of their
terroirs to life wherever you choose to enjoy them.
Burgundy – Chablis
Domaine Gérard Duplessis
A family domaine for five generations now, Lilian is the latest vigneron of an estate created in 1895, taking over for his father Gérard in 1999. After
going to school and internships in the region (“There was no point in making Sauvignon blanc in New Zealand, I needed to know how to work
Chardonnay in Burgundy” he says), Lilian has turned the domaine into one of the very few organic estates in Chablis. Vinifications are done in
stainless steel, then most of the Premier Crus (all but Vaugiraut) and Grand Cru spend time in old barriques for élevage. All the wines are fermented
naturally and sulfured between 20 and 30 ppm at bottling. Lilian makes some of the purest, most terroir-driven wines in the region. "If there was a
category for the "best kept secret in Chablis", Domaine Duplessis would be one of my top two picks." - Allen Meadows, Burghound
Burgundy – Mâconnais
Domaine des Gandines
Domaine des Gandines was founded by Joseph Dananchet at the beginning of the 20th century. At the time, it was a polycultural farm like most
others in the area with cows, pigs, sheep, wheat, and a couple of hectares of vines. The property slowly expanded over the years, and in 2003,
Benjamin Dananchet – the 4th Dananchet generation – joined forces with his father, Robert, slowly bringing the vineyard holdings to 13ha they farm
today while also converting to organic viticulture (certified in 2009). Since 2011, they have even begun working biodynamically, which they feel helps
retain higher natural acidities. Benjamin was recently joined by his brother, Florent, who is now assisting in the cellar. Soils are an important focus of
the Dananchets' methodology for the enhancing the vine's nutrition. The family uses no herbicides on the ground, and the soils are plowed to give air
to the microorganisms while eliminating the grass without weed killers. In order to preserve the integrity of the grapes and avoid oxidation, all grapes
are harvested by hand. Grapes are pressed whole-cluster (no destemming) and are allowed to ferment slowly with native yeast, with the only addition
being a small amount of sulfur just before bottling.
Jura
Domaine de Saint Pierre
After studying enology in Beaune and working several years at the cooperative in Pupillin, Fabrice Dodane started working at Domaine de Saint Pierre
in 1989 as manager. Fabrice took full control of the estate in 2011 after the untimely death of the former owner. The winery is based in the small town
of Mathenay and covers approximately 6ha in the Arbois and Côtes du Jura AOCs with the vines planted in limestone and marl soils. Saint Pierre
achieved organic certification in 2012, having started conversion in 2002. All wines are fermented with native yeasts either in tank or neutral barrel.
Vinifications for the reds are done without the addition of sulfur, and the whites are done flawlessly in both the traditional sous voile method, as well
as topped-up, or ouillé style. These are clean, balanced expressions of their terroir, and drink almost too easily.
Savoie/Isère
Domaine Belluard
In all likelihood, you've never heard of Ayze or it's local, rather obscure, indigenous grape, Gringet. After all, there are only 22ha of it left in the world
(of which Dominique owns 12ha). The obscurity is too bad, because Dominique Belluard tireless works here, with this grape, striving to create some
of the most singular, compelling wines around. In 2001, Dominique decided to convert his vineyards to biodynamics, which he feels interferes the
least with the 700-year history of viticulture in Ayze (some people speculate that Gringet pre-dates the Roman influence in the area). When he didn't
like what wood and steel were doing to his wines, he switched to concrete eggs, as he felt the smaller volumes and controlled aeration they provided
yielded the best results for his small, unique parcels. Prior to Dom rediscovering the variety, Gringet was used almost exclusively for sparkling wine
intended for casual chugging. Dom honors that heritage and makes beautiful sparkling Gringet (made entirely in-house, a rarity for the region). He
also explores the grape’s potential for still wines, making some of the truest expressions of Ayze’s mountain terroir.
Nicolas Gonin
Located between Lyon and Grenoble, the Isère is just now gaining attention for its wines. Part of the attention is because of young growers like
Nicolas, who are seeking out and rediscovering the great, noble grapes of the past that (mostly for political and economic reasons) have been
abandoned in favor of the more well-known grapes of France. Nicolas discovered the 'cépages anciens' while working at Domaine Tempier in Bandol,
where he found a book that outlined the great old grapes of all the regions of France. Nicolas was hooked, and he now spends his weekends seeking
out old vineyards in France to find cuttings of these grapes. Nicolas currently owns part of the only 10ha of Persan that exist in the world, and will
soon make wine from grapes like Bia and Mècle de Bourgin. The vineyards are all certified organic, and fermentation and aging are exclusively in
enamel tank in order to give a true, unobstructed taste of these ancient varieties.
Beaujolais
Bernard Vallette
From the deep south of Beaujolais in the village of Lachassagne, where the soils are clay and limestone as opposed to granite, Bernard Vallette is
biodynamically farming 6.5ha of land passed down through his family from his grandparents. The grapes are all hand harvested and fermented
with native yeasts using carbonic maceration and a comparatively lengthy aging in stainless steel. The resulting wines are charming and
immensely drinkable in their youth, but also develop nicely with a few years of age. No additions in the cellar (including sugar) and just a touch of
SO2 at bottling.
Roland Pignard
Hardly a newcomer to winemaking, Roland Pignard took over the family estate in 1977 and immediately turned towards organic practices. In 2004,
he and his wife Joëlle sold off most of the estate, retaining only 4.5ha to concentrate on better farming, and received organic (Ecocert) and then
biodynamic (Demeter) certification. Vineyard treatments rely on biodynamic preparations with minimal copper-sulfate, and all tilling is done by horse-
drawn implements so as to not compact the soil. Picking is done by a crew of 20 (the same pickers each year, which is very important says Roland)
and carbonic macerations are short (only 6 to 12 days depending on the cuvée) as Roland feels that long macerations can result in the development
of undesirable yeasts and bacterias, and gives wines that are too extracted. All the wines are aged in cement cuves (except one cuvée of Morgon
called "Tradition"), and no SO2 is used during fermentation or élevage, with a minimal dose added before bottling, giving a total of about 8-10mg/L.
The resulting wines have subtle, pure fruit with perfect acidity and a pronounced mineral character with graphite, stone and earthy qualities.
Domaine du Chapitre
Frédéric Dorthe runs his family's 20ha of vineyards located on the right bank of the Rhône River in the picturesque town of Saint-Marcel d'Ardèche.
Due to long-standing contracts to sell most of his fruit, Fred's domaine has flown under the radar for a long time. On the bright side, this allows him
to make small amounts of honest, highly-drinkable wines from Southern Rhône grapes fermented and aged in cement with no additions except a
small amount of SO2 at bottling, and sell them for a song.
Domaine du Trapadis
The history of Domaine du Trapadis dates back four generations to 1850, with present vineyard owner Helen Durand’s two great-grandfathers each
owning a part of the land that together forms the 23ha of the domaine today. Trapadis is derived from the word 'trapalas', which means 'hole' in the
local dialect, a reference to the underground cave and natural spring located below the vines that provides water to the surrounding hamlet near the
village of Rasteau. Helen began to produce and bottle the wines of Trapadis at the young age of 16, and since 1996, he has complete control of the
domaine. The average age of the vines is 35 years, with the oldest parcel having been planted in 1922. Farming is all organic (certified since 2010),
with some biodynamic principles applied, and much of the work in the vineyards is carried out by horse. All the fruit is carefully hand harvested and
sorted before natural fermentation and aging in the original concrete vats.
Four Tuesdays
Some people hesitate to open a great bottle of wine on a weekday. Not us! We decided that Four Tuesdays would give you a great wine for every
night of the week at a fantastic price. Our box contains the equivalent of four 750mL bottles and stays fresh for four weeks once opened. Sourcing
great wine at friendly prices requires a fair amount of time and good luck. It comes down to finding winemakers who strive for quality regardless of
the perceived potential of their wine region or appellation. They stand out from their neighbors by going far beyond what the local winemaking rules
require – better farming, lower yields, and serious, honest winemaking.
Langeudoc
Le Clos des Jarres
Les Clos de Jarres is an ambitious new domaine in Minervois started by the young Vivien Hemelsdael. Vivien’s parents had originally farmed the land
here for over 25 years, selling the fruit to the local cooperative. After studying winemaking around the world and in France in Alsace, where he initially
became interested in organic farming, Vivien returned home in 2010 and immediately converted the family's 12ha of vineyards to organics (now
certified), and has even begun incorporating some biodynamic treatments and principals. Vivien is working with a range of traditional red and white
varieties, with some of the vineyards over 80 years old. The vines are planted in the foothills of the Montagne Noire (Black Mountains), where the
cooling breezes combined with the limestone subsoil of the area helps give these wines extra freshness. The grapes are all hand harvested into small
crates to help sort the fruit in the vineyard. Fermentations are all with native yeast, and the wines are not fined or filtered, with the only addition being
a minimal amount of SO2 at bottling. These are delicious wines full of life, and we are glad to see all of Vivien’s hard work paying off.
Mas Foulaquier
Winemaker Pierre Jéquier, a native of Switzerland and formerly an architect, created Mas Foulaquier in 1998 following an exhaustive search for his
dream wine estate. Situated in the most northerly corner of Languedoc's most northerly appellation, Pic Saint-Loup, the 8ha of existing vines were at
the time just 8 years old, but happened to be planted on some great terroir. Now, at more than 25 years of age, those vines are the source of a quite
brilliant set of wines. Pierre's wife and fellow winemaker, Blandine Chauchet, joined the team in 2003, bringing with her the ownership of a further 3ha
of 50+ year-old Grenache and Carignan in the lieu-dit of "Les Tonillières". The vines are certified organic, and since 2007, are also certified
biodynamic by Demeter. In the cellar, the wines all are raised in Foulaquier’s signature, low-intervention style – native yeasts, no filtering, and minimal
sulfur added only at bottling.
Bordeaux – Entre-Deux-Mers
Mary Taylor
When founding partner Mary Taylor first fell in love with wine in the early 90s, it was the European classics that truly spoke to her and stole her heart.
As a young professional selling wine, she quickly learned to appreciate wine in the “Old World” way — not as a luxury good reserved for special
occasions, but a living agricultural product that belongs to everyday life. After many years working with the wines of Europe, Mary arrived at an
important insight. Left in the dark by decades of simplistic marketing efforts that placed grape above geography, American consumers needed a
brand they could trust to decipher the complex notion of terroir in a clear and straightforward way. Out of this realization, the “White Label” series
was born. Today, it is Mary’s mission to unlock the world of European appellation wines by working with individual growers in multiple villages — from
Bordeaux to Nîmes to Valençay to the Douro and beyond — who produce exceptional, regionally-distinctive wines at extremely accessible prices. In
the traditional spirit of the Old World, each Mary Taylor wine has been selected as a faithful ambassador of its geographic origin, true to local traditions
and the vision of the individual farmer who bottled it. All fruit is farmed sustainably or organically, only indigenous varieties are used, fermentations are
with native yeast, and only inert vessels are used for aging to yield a set of wines of genuine quality and integrity that will bring the magic of their
terroirs to life wherever you choose to enjoy them.
Château La Colombière
Diane and Philippe Cauvin run Château La Colombière in the Fronton AOP of southwest France. After taking over the family domaine in 2005, the
Cauvins have worked tremendously hard to get the vineyards to where they are today and continue to work in a natural direction, favoring quality over
quantity (a rarity in this area). There are a total of 13ha of vines farmed organically (Ecocert certified), and they have even worked biodynamically
since 2010. Most of the plantings are of the local Négrette grape, but there is also some Gamay, Malbec, and Syrah, plus a white grape that is
technically not yet allowed to appear on a label, called Bouysselet. All of the wines come from 15-55 year old vines and ferment in cement or stainless
with no additions other than SO2 at bottling. Always experimenting, the Cauvins have even begun making a pét-nat rosé from Négrette!
Domaine Séailles
Domaine Séailles is one of the pioneers of organic viticulture in the Côtes de Gascogne region of Southwest France. A family-owned estate since
1961, Séailles is now run by Jean Labérenne, who lead the domaine to Ecocert organic certification in 1997, swearing off all chemical fertilizers,
herbicides, insecticides, and synthetic chemical products. Located in the town of Ténarèze, which is unique in the region for its limestone soils, Jean
farms a total of 25ha of hillside vineyards with help the of Julien Lanclet and Laurent Lefèvre, even saving 2ha of vines to make the traditional spirit
of the region, Armagnac. Both native yeast fermented, the reds are aged in cement tank, while the whites are all done in stainless.
Elian Da Ros
Historically, the region around Marmande has been more famous for tomatoes than for wine, but Elian Da Ros might change all that. Returning to
his native town of Cocumont in 1998, Elian constructed a simple winery and took the daring step of being the first winemaker to produce and bottle
his own wine under the Côtes du Marmandais AOP. Crafting superb, biodynamic wines from Bordeaux varieties as well as the local Abouriou,
Elian is one of those French vignerons that is universally respected by just about every other vigneron you talk with, regardless of their views on
agriculture and winemaking. These are some of the purest expressions of the limestone and gravel soils of the region, and display tremendous
elegance and finesse, even when working with grape varieties more famous for their masculinity and strength.
Corsica
Clos Marfisi
If you aren’t familiar with Corsica, the main event is Patrimonio. This AOP covers 400ha, with half of them being owned by the two largest producers,
and the other half split up amongst thirty smaller growers. If you haven’t already guessed, Clos Marfisi is part of the latter. Brother and sister Mathieu
and Julie Marfisi are the fifth generation at the helm of this estate, having taken over from their father, Touissant, when Julie returned in 2001, and her
brother in 2012, from having careers elsewhere in France. Clos Marfisi’s vineyards (which Touissant planted about 40-50 years ago) rise up from the
Mediterranean with southern and western exposures on steep slopes that are practically white with large chunks of broken up limestone. Equally
impressive is the fact that they never gave into outside pressure and the entirety of the estate is planted to local varieties; you won’t find any Grenache
here. Their father is still very active in the vineyards and is the main reason that the estate has also never been touched by pesticides or herbicides
(they will be certified organic by the 2018 vintage). Vestiges of the old guard remain in the cellar as well where native yeasts have always been used
for fermentations, and sulfur levels are kept to a minimum. Their commitment to honoring the past while shaping their own future is incredibly exciting
to us, and after years of not paying attention to Corsica, finding out what it really has to offer couldn’t make us happier.
Germany
Mosel
Hild
You’ve probably never heard of the “upper Mosel". I really hadn’t either, aside from mildly derogatory remarks made in passing. Some of this derision
is probably deserved: the upper Mosel has had a long tradition of selling grapes en masse to cooperatives interested in high yields, irrespective of
quality. However, this is also a fascinating place, a vision of the Mosel that has nothing to do with Riesling or slate. Here we find limestone (this is the
beginning of the Paris Basin, the geological reality that informs places like Chablis and Sancerre) and a winemaking culture based on one of Europe’s
oldest grapes: Elbling. Matthias Hild farms 5ha in the upper Mosel doing something that makes almost zero financial sense: saving old, terraced
parcels of Elbling. In this area, however, it’s important to understand Elbling is something of a religion. It’s a culture, a regional dialect that is spoken
through this wine of rigorous purity, of joyous simplicity, of toothsome acidity. Even at its best, Elbling is not a grape of “greatness” as much as it is a
grape of refreshment and honesty and conviviality. The comparisons are plenty, though none of them are quite right: If Riesling is Pinot Noir, then
Elbling is Gamay. If Riesling is Chenin Blanc, then Elbling is Muscadet. You get the idea. The joy of Elbling is its raucous acidity, the vigor and energy,
the fact that it is so low in alcohol you could probably drink a bottle and still operate heavy machinery.
Stein
While Ulli Stein’s wines are not widely known in the U.S., he has nothing less than a fanatical following in Europe. He could likely sell every last bottle
to his friends in Germany alone, yet there are places of some importance, like Noma in Copenhagen, that put in sizable orders for Stein wine. He
farms meaningful parcels of land that have a few important things in common: They are not easy to work. They are commercially unknown. And,
most importantly, Ulli loves them. In fact, Stein is more than a winemaker – he is a passionate advocate for the traditional, steep, slate vineyards
of the Mosel. In 2010, Ulli published a manifesto warning of the threats to the region’s 2000 years old viticultural tradition. Winemaking with Ulli is
refreshingly light on “style,” instead focusing on what the vineyards say to him. Certainly there is a focus on wines that are dry; lightness and zip are
more important than gobs of fruit. Complexity is good, but not at the expense of the whole – better to be simple and well done than overdone and,
well, a mess. Cut is more important than size.
Weiser-Künstler
Konstantin Weiser and Alexandra Künstler are as soulful as the vineyards they farm; this is a micro-estate with only 3ha under vine. Konstantin
and Alexandra do everything here, working in the vineyards daily. Situated in Traben-Trarbach, many of their vineyards fell into obscurity in the
latter half of the 20th century, which is not necessarily a bad thing. The fact is that these vines have not seen the “modernization” that many sites
in the Mosel have, which means these cliff-vineyards still have their jutting, ladder-like terraces. On these terraces, they have a high density of
very old, un-grafted vines. Weiser-Künstler makes wines exceptional Prädikat wines, but they also make dry wines – dainty angels carved from
mineral and slate that feel like porcelain in their weight and purity. As of 2015, they are moving towards complete organic certification.
Saar
Hofgut Falkenstein
The Weber family farms about 8ha of mainly old Riesling vines — over 40% ungrafted — in a side valley of the Saar, known as Tälchen (“little valley”).
In 1985, Erich Weber and his wife, Marita, built up the property of the then-dilapidated Falkensteinerhof (established in 1901) from scratch. All the
Riesling grapes are hand-harvested and the whole grapes are gently pressed in a pneumatic press for two to three hours. The musts are left
overnight to settle naturally and are vinified with ambient yeasts exclusively in old oak 1,000-liter Fuder casks. Their top vineyard sites are located on
various south-facing hillsides of primarily gray slate with some quartz, including the once highly prized sites of Niedermenniger Herrenberg,
Niedermenniger Sonnenberg, Krettnacher Euchariusberg, and Krettnacher Altenberg. The father-and-son team of Erich and Johannes Weber don’t
use herbicides and believe in low yields (one flat cane per vine) to produce an array of green-tinted, light-bodied, high-acid, unchaptalized dry
(trocken), off-dry (feinherb), and sweet Saar wines — all of which are cask-by-cask bottlings.
Rheingau
J.B. Becker
These wines taste like nothing else coming out of the Rheingau (or most anywhere for that matter) and Hans-Josef Becker just doesn’t give a fuck.
We struggled with a more elegant way of introducing this estate, some poignant lines describing the dirty-fingered, weathered-skin, mess-of-a-tasting-
room aesthetic of J.B. Becker. But at the heart of the matter, "HaJo", as his friends call him, will get up in the morning, go into his vineyards, and make
the kinds of wines he wants to make. And that’s about it. They are unflaggingly honest and present a vocabulary that few white wines can match: dried
earth and rocks, herbs, something vaguely subterranean, a savory, briny, smoky atmosphere that slowly reveals fine layers of bright citrus. They flaunt
a rather prominent acidity that recalls the more nervy wines of the Mosel, Saar, and Ruwer, though there is a weight, a density that speaks of the
Rheingau. They seem to have more to do with great, aged Chablis than with what we often think of as German Riesling. If there is any grand system
here, it is inscrutable. Consider, on the one hand, that Becker (and his father before him) has worked the vineyards organically for many, many years
(they finally became certified in 2011). On the other hand, this rather important fact is mentioned exactly nowhere so far as I can tell. Becker believes
the Rheingau has been particularly devastated by the decades of commercial agriculture; he says it took him many years to bring back to life a
healthy, diverse population of yeasts in the vineyards and the cellars. Thus, he is a strong advocate of wild yeast fermentations. This practice puts the
graying, wild statesman of German winemaking right next to the young German hipster-growers, as obsessed with natural yeasts as anything else. On
the other hand, since vintage 2003, Becker has bottled his wine with glass closures, which of course alienates him from this same population. Becker
prefers to use pressurized tanks for fermentation, relishing a quick, warm fermentation (a similar method is used at places like J.J. Prüm, Keller, etc).
Then he racks the juice into the traditional barrels of the Rheingau for at least two years of barrel age before bottling. Even with these very long
élevages, Becker seems to release wines willy-nilly – he keeps older vintages around because, in a way, the wines demand it. The wines all have
enormous aging potential, but even a couple of years in bottle unlocks their soul. These are Rieslings that make no concessions to modernity or to
fashion and are defiantly old school. They are living fossils, the likes of which we may never see again.
Pfalz
Brand
Young brothers Daniel and Jonas Brand (both in their twenties) recently took over their family’s century-old estate, and are quickly breathing new life
into this former workhorse of the Northern Pfalz. The kids are smart, eager, and dialed into the growing natural wine scene both in Germany and in
neighboring France. They’re just starting to make waves –– converting all their viticulture to organic (certified as of 2015) and are experimenting like
crazy in the cellar. They have a pét-nat that’s so popular it sells out before they’ve even made it, and they make the best organic, entry-level liters of
dry Riesling and Weissburgunder you’ll ever find. The Nordpfalz borders the Rheinessen (their village is closer to Keller’s than to anybody famous in
the Pfalz), and that airy but firm sensibility informs these bright and mineral-laden wines.
Franken
Vetter
Stefan Vetter is f-ing punk rock. He has done nothing that has even the slightest commercial logic to it. His old friend Andreas Adam (of the celebrated
Mosel estate A.J. Adam) must shake his head, watching Stefan, like a wild hermit, run himself up into the terraced vineyards of Franconia. Yet from a
scant few hectares of old terraced vineyards, Stefan is redefining what Sylvaner can be. These are quite simply the greatest Sylvaners I’ve ever
tasted, from anywhere, ever. Stefan is at the forefront of the natural wine movement in Germany. As such, he farms both organically and
biodynamically, working only old vines in steep, terraced sites. Pressing is done gently and can take four to six hours. The juice may see a short bit of
skin contact, but for the most part it is just moved directly into old barrels. Stefan has bought 300 and 600-liter barrels from Stockinger. During the
élevage, the wine is topped off but that’s about it. The wines are bottled without fining or filtering.
Shelter Winery
Hans-Bert Espe and Silke Wolf farm roughly 5ha in the not-so-famous region of Baden. Let’s go ahead and equate not-so-famous with not-so-ripe
and we get, immediately, a sense of the philosophy here. There are lots of words we would use to describe the bulldozer-Pinots we’ve tasted from
Baden over the years; delicacy would not be one of them. Until we tasted with Hans-Bert and Silke. This husband-and-wife team has spent the last
decade in the nooks and crannies of the wine-geek world, slowly building a reputation for pristine, delicate Pinot Noirs from Baden (there, we’ve used
the word). You might call them understated, though the rather petite structure and lively animation of the wines gives way to a mid-palate that is
awash with sweet perfumed fruit, transparent and mineral. In style, sensibility and size, they remind us quite a bit of Weiser-Künstler in the Mosel
(indeed they are all friends) – except this is Pinot Noir, from Baden. You may have to remind yourself of this when you’re tasting the wines.
Württemberg
Weingut Beurer
A one time European BMX champion running a small garagiste estate in Württemberg, at the farthest southern end of Germany, Jochen Beurer could
hardly be farther removed from the staid, landed traditions of his more Northern neighbors. His dry, terroir saturated wines from a variety of Jurassic
and Triassic soils on the hills around Kernen im Remstal have similarly little in common with historical conceptions of "German Riesling". These are,
first and foremost, "Swabian" wines, steeped in the traditions of a region that has long remained outside the national mainstream. The Beurer family
have farmed their land just outside of Stuttgart for generations, growing fruit and making wine that typically ended up in the bottles of the local coop.
Then, in 1997, Jochen, his wife, Marion, and father, Sigfried, set out on their own, making and bottling the wine for themselves. In 2003, Jochen
started experimenting with organic viticulture and spontaneous fermentations, converting fully to biodynamics over the next few years (now certified
by Demeter). Today, we can think of no other winemaker whose wines speak of the soil – a mixture of ancient lime and sandstones, and the ancient
Keuper soils beneath them – as much as Jochen’s do. Respect for nature and patience are reflected everywhere: in cool years, Jochen is inevitably
the last to pick, successive tries are the norm, and spontaneous fermentations follow their own course, usually including malolactic. Élevages are
similarly slow and careful, with wines being committed to bottle only when Jochen feels that the time is exactly right. The results are singular: a range
of completely unforced yet strikingly intense wines that are long, structured, and saturated in Swabian minerality.
Austria
Niederösterreich – Weinviertel
Weingut Martinshof
“Innovation, stubbornness and a bit of madness.” This, according to Michael Martin, the young wine making dynamo of Weingut Martinshof, is the
secret to his success. The trend to buck conservative thought was started even by his great grandfather, who insisted on growing Burgundian
grapes in the 13ha of vineyards many years before they were popular in Austria. The Martin family has owned and operated the Heuriger “Zum
Martin Sepp” for generations and it still remains one of the most popular wine taverns of Vienna’s Grinzing district. As Michael took over the
winemaking in the late '80s, it was his desire to bring the Martinshof name back from quantity to quality. “Food friendly” is the first thought that
comes to mind when sipping any of the Martinshof wines; whether light and elegant or rich and structured, all of Michael’s wines scream for food.
Niederösterreich – Kremstal
Weingut Müller-Grossmann
At the foot of Göttweig Mountain in the traditional winegrowing region Kremstal, the mother/daughter team of Helma and Marlies Müller-
Grossmann sustainably farm 10ha of vineyards. Focusing nearly exclusively on white wines, Müller-Grossmann lets the gravelly, loess soils do the
talking, choosing to bottle their wines by vineyard site. Everything is harvested by hand, and the same desire to express the unique characteristics
of their vineyards follows through to the cellar, where Müller-Grossman takes a traditional, hands-off approach. Helma and Marlies are even part of
an organization called "11 Frauen & Ihre Weine", a group of eleven female winemakers in Austria, banded together to support each other.
Niederösterreich – Wachau
Weingut Josef Jamek
Jamek is one of the historic estates of the Wachau; along with FX Pichler, Hirtzberger and Prager, they were the force behind the group known as
the Vinea Wachau, which demanded the highest quality of the region and created the language we use to talk about the great wines of the Wachau
today (Smaragd for the most powerful of the wines, Federspiel for the more delicate, etc.). Jamek was, without a doubt, at the forefront of this
renaissance, and it should not come as a surprise: Jamek has some of the most coveted vineyards in the Wachau, including the terraced titans of
Klaus and Achleiten. Harvested by hand and fermented in stainless before aging in large, old barrels, these are very "grown-up" kinds of wines;
solid, durable, and authoritative, they are sometimes hard to read just because they aren’t sheet-metal brilliant. But with age, the wines truly shine.
Burgenland – Leithaberg
Tinhof
After studying wine in Vienna, Montpelier, and a stint at the legendary Mas de Daumas-Gassac in Southern France, Erwin Tinhof has returned to
farm the 14ha of vineyards on the slopes of the Leitha Mountains that have been passed down through his family for 11 generations. Farming
organically since 2008 (certification came in 2012), Erwin carefully dry-farms the estate, which is home to vines that are up to 50 years old. There
is no use of insecticides, herbicides, or artificial fertilizers, and after hand harvesting the grapes, the wines are all made with minimal intervention
in the cellar.
Italy
Valle d'Aosta
Bouquetin
Project Fuso21: regional, terroir-driven, daily drinkers, from farmers we know here in Italy – from their vineyards to your table. These are like the
wines you’ll find in a good trattoria when traveling in Italy, made from the native varieties that the locals drink. Keeping true to vini quotidiani, we
choose deliciousness over complexity and polish. All are vinified in cement or steel, lightly or not filtered, and delicious. The project connects growers
in small towns throughout Italy to folks just like us who don’t want industrial plonk for daily drinkers. This Alpine Gamay is from Italy’s northwest corner
in Valle d’Aosta, so it speaks Italian and French, but there’s nothing Nouveau about Gamay in this valley: It was brought here a thousand years ago
during the reign of the Dukes of Burgundy. The vineyards sit at 650-800 meters in the Alta Valle west of the city of Aosta. Soils are alluvial with glacial
moraine. Hand-harvested grapes are macerated for eight days and then aged for eight months, all in stainless steel. The wine has a pretty, lightly
floral nose with a palate of sour cherry and minerals. Drink it with barbecue or quaff it slightly chilled après-ski-hike-bike-work. Its name, Bouquetin
(boo-kuh-TAN) is after the ibex, the local mountain goat.
Piero Brunet
Morgex and La Salle are neighboring villages at the foot of Mont Blanc in the Alta Valle, or High Valley, of the Vallée d’Aoste. The local grape variety,
Prié Blanc, was brought to fame by Alexandre Bougeat who, besides serving as parish priest of Morgex, began bottling wine in 1964. In 1985, Piero
Brunet took over his family’s vineyards and purchased a part of the original vineyards of "Curé Bougeat". Piero, his wife, and their two daughters now
farm 4ha of high-altitude (1000-1200m), steeply-terraced, pergola-trained, own-rooted, organic vines and make just over 300 cases of their single and
singular wine. Lovers of heroic viticulture and Alpine wines, take note!
Piemonte
Cascina Fornace
We drink lots of Roero wines, and we’re friends with quite a few producers there. But we’ve yet to taste wines more lithe and pure, with more of that
famed Roero 'profumato' nose, than those of Enrico Cauda. His family has farmed for generations and used to sell grapes and make wine for their
own consumption. Skip forward to 2011, and Enrico decides to start bottling wine under his own label, naming it after the old fornace, or brick kiln,
that was on the property. Enrico and his brother Manuele now farm 3ha of old-vine Arneis and Nebbiolo (50-60 years old) organically, with certification
in process. The vineyards are in the village of Santo Stefano Roero, and thus higher in altitude than most others in the Roero. Soils are classic
Roero, with a high percentage of sand. Native yeasts, super-meticulous farming, all work in the vineyard is done by hand, in part because the
vineyards are too steep for a tractor.
M. Sokolin
After working as a sommelier in San Francisco at Michael Mina and Acquarello, Mitchell Sokolin decided to spend the last several years traveling the
globe learning to make in both hemispheres, at places like Mac Forbes in Australia. Finally, for his first solo project, he settled down in the southern
part of Castilla y León in Sierra de Salamanca. Always searching for new and interesting opportunities, Mitchell began sniffing around the Langhe
for his second project. Inspired by producers like Vajra, Olek Bondonio, Chionetti, and Abonna, Mitchell decided to search out interesting parcels of
Dolcetto, convinced that in the right hands, it can producer floral, perfumed wines full of interest and character. He eventually found the right site, a
beautiful north-facing slope on white soils, just on the Dogliani side of Monforte. The fruit was fermented in stainless steel with almost half as whole
bunches and the rest destemmed on top. After two weeks in tank, it was pressed off into old 300L barrels to finish fermentation. The wine made it to
bottle with no fining, no filtration, and no additions besides SO2.
Mauro Franchino
Gattinara is the most renowned DOCG of nine tiny but geographically complex appellations, collectively known as Alto Piemonte. The three largest
producers collectively have around 90 of the 100 hectares of vineyard in the appellation. That leaves 10 highly fractionalized hectares for some
hobbyists and a handful of nearly forgotten vignaioli. These vignerons still hold onto the tradition of using a sketch of the crumbling Gattinara tower on
their labels. Signor Franchino is one of these old-schoolers – no faxes or emails. Most of the time when we call or visit, he’s in the vineyard, while his
Nebbiolo sits patiently in the old garagiste cellar in Gattinara’s centro storico. This Nebbiolo has little color. It’s pale, concise, honest, and comfortable
with long stretches of silence between its notes of salt, iron, red currants, and rose hip tea. Both the Gattinara and Coste della Sesia are 100%
Nebbiolo. Go on and bring a little old world Gattinara soul to your Nebbiolo fix.
Stefano Vegis
Stefano Vegis is a traditional Gattinara garagiste, with rows of vines in multiple vineyards, including 0.6ha in Gattinara’s historically most famous cru
called "Osso", or ‘Bone’. His part of "Osso" is locally called "Osso del Sasso", or ‘Bone of Rock’, on account of a huge porphyritic-granitic rock in the
middle of the vineyard. "Osso" fruit is known to give nervous and vertical wines, and Vegis’ wines echo that. They also have that alluring crepuscular,
lighter-than-air, quality that Nebbiolo can have. All of which is pretty amazing, since his first bottled vintage was 2013. Stefano is moving away from
conventional farming, which is the norm in Gattinara. He uses only fungicides or Bordeaux mixture when necessary in humid years, so no herbicides
or pesticides. We applaud his direction toward more natural wines in an area difficult to do that. We’re curious to see what the following vintages will
bring from Stefano as we believe he is one of the rising stars in the area.
Tenuta Monolo
Tenuta Monolo is an eccentric little Italian story. We’re in the Bramaterra growing area of Alto Piemonte, an area dear to our hearts, with its wild
volcanic and marine soils, just north of Barolo at the base of the Alps. Here Nebbiolo is more harpsichord, rather than cello-Barolo in tone, with spicy
notes from the additional varieties of Vespolina and Croatina. The cantina was once part of a villa that contained over 40,000 volumes of manuscripts
and books on philosophy, classical music (especially Baroque and Renaissance), and art. Surrounded by 0.75ha of vineyards, the villa on the hill
acted as the home for the eccentric musician Umberto Gilodi, and his lifelong friend and cellar master Orlando Cremonini. Gilodi was often called the
‘Padre di Bramaterra’ for his role in creating the Bramaterra DOC in 1979. Since he was the main voice and impetus in creating the DOC, he decided
never to sell his wine so he wouldn’t have a conflict of interest with the other producers in the area. Thus, we have bottles of multiple vintages, directly
from the cantina. We’ve acquired the entire cellar, with vintages from 1982 to 2004, as a way to give homage to these men, and also to fill in a missing
piece of Bramaterra’s enological history – no other winery in Bramaterra has such a large stock of back vintages. The wines differ wildly from year to
year, and they can be a bit (charmingly) rustic. They lived a simple life, all farming was organic. Gilodi was a meticulous note taker and we have his
documents that attest to not using pesticides or herbicides in a time when most in that area were. Fermentation was in large wood botti, using native
yeasts. The vineyards, and so too probably the wines, were 60% Nebbiolo, 20% Croatina, 10% Vespolina, 10% Uva Rara. These are historic wines
with lots of character and represent the first labeled Bramaterra bottles.
Umberto Fracassi
Umberto Fracassi’s family has been producing Barolo since 1880, a time when Barolo went from being 'un vino dolce' to the grande vino secco that
we all know today. After the Second World War, Marchese Fracassi, or simply Umberto, dedicated himself to carrying on the family tradition of
producing old-school Barolo in Slavonian oak botti. The town of Cherasco sits at the northwest corner of the Barolo zone, just west of La Morra and
Verduno, and its growing area includes Fracassi’s 2ha Barolo monopole cru, Mantoetto. This area is also known as Italy’s capital of snail production.
Umberto also produces some white Favorita (Vermentino) that’s a good way to start a meal, as the Barolo is opening up in the decanter.
Valli Unite
In southeast Piemonte, Valli Unite may be Italy’s only natural wine cooperative, where vineyards lie amid beehives, farm animals, orchards, and
truffle-filled woodlands. From honey to homemade salame and wine between, 30 members work on the 100ha farm and call it home. During harvest,
you can still stomp grapes with your bare feet here. Their wines range from the glou glou bottlings of Alessandrino, Bianchino, and a crown cap
farmer fizz, to more complex natural wines, such as their lithesome Derthona with the local Timorasso variety. “We believe natural vinification is a
social responsibility,” is the philosophy; soil humus, livestock manure, native yeasts, local grapes, time, and parsimonious sulfur compose the winning
formula. Visit one morning, work hard, and then stay for the communal lunch. It’s a visit unlike any other winery – I mean working farm – that I’ve
been to.
Vigneti Massa
It’s hard not to get worked up about Walter Massa’s wines. He had a vision for a variety nobody wanted (Timorasso), worked in obscurity for years,
rescued the grape, and doesn’t talk about himself but instead about the territory of Colli Tortonesi. When you get lost going there, start asking people
100 kilometers out; they all know and love him, from the gas station guy to the producer next door. You'll often hear it bandied about: "There are
thousands of native grape varieties in Italy!" That's true, but a lot of them are merely cute. Timorasso, however, deserves another category (and it’s
white to boot). It’s utterly unique, complex, capable of aging, and transparent to where it's grown. Walter is the 'contadino straordinario' who started to
replant the variety in the 1980s and remains the leading producer and go-to grower for Timorasso today. We often say that Timorasso is like Ali: 'Float
like a butterfly (baroque fruit and honeyed minerality) and sting like a bee (lots of well-integrated acidity). Remarkable and distinctive red wines made
from Barbera, Croatina, and Freisa demonstrate that Walter is more than just the "King of Timorasso".
Veneto
Bella Vita
While our focus is on small growers that work well in the vineyard and the cellar, we also understand the realities and needs of our customers. So,
we found a Pinot Grigio from Treviso that fits in qualitatively with our portfolio, and that we feel good about offering at a great price. Made by the third
generation, sibling winemaking team of Annalisa, Alessandro, Carlo, and Luca Botter (also responsible for Bella Vita Montepulciano from their
holdings in Abruzzo).
Le Vigne di Alice
Sisters-in-law Cinzia Canzian and Pier Francesca Bonicelli started Alice in 2004 to fulfill their dream of bottling artisanal Prosecco thatʼs all their own:
estate fruit, pre-Dolomite, grower Prosecco. We call it Prosecco for non-Prosecco lovers (a category that includes us). It didnʼt take long to understand
that these women are joyful, caring, and have a passion for real wine (including the grower Champagne and Jura wines they also import to Italy). At
the same time, they are utterly serious, precise, and determined to produce amazing Prosecchi. Their 9ha of vineyards are worked without herbicides
or pesticides and all weeding is done by hand. Soils are of glacial moraine origin: chalky, rocky, lean, and full of minerals. They have taken their
sustainability even further by constructing a green winery with grass on the roof and solar panels that supply more than half of their energy. Their work
in the cellar mirrors their dedication in the vineyards. From an incredibly long Charmat for their single-vineyard wine, "Doro", to using Metodo Classico
on ".g", to experimenting with Metodo Integrale (i.e. not disgorged) on "P.S.", these women are truly pushing the boundaries of quality in this often
unfairly criticized region.
Serata
While our focus is on small growers that work well in the vineyard and the cellar, we also understand the realities and needs of our customers. So, we
found a Prosecco that fits in qualitatively with our portfolio, and that we feel good about offering at a great price. Made by a family winery outside of
Vittoria Veneto in the foothills of the Dolomites. Their vineyards are farmed sustainably without herbicides, solar panels are used for electricity, and
large amounts of the property are left as woodlands to encourage biodiversity.
Liguria
Vio
In the tiny village of Vendone, just 12km inland and 300m above the sea, Ettore and Natalina Vio planted vines and olive trees amidst the Ligurian
mountain scrub in the 1970s. Today, their son, Claudio, and his wife, Maria Grazia, now tend the family farm. The dispersed patchwork of tiny,
terraced vineyard plots adding up to just 2ha — mostly Pigato, with a little Vermentino and some local red varieties — yield just enough wine for us to
bring in a few hundred cases a year. A hectare of olive orchards gives even less of their beautifully delicate olive oil (ask us nicely, and we might be
able to get you a little). Farming is 'lotta integrata' (manual weeding, no treatments besides Bordeaux mixture), all harvesting is by hand (by necessity
of the small, steep terraced parcels), and fermentations are with native yeasts.
Gradizzolo
On weekends, Antonio Ognibene's wife cooks up some delicious tortellini in brodo in their agriturismo for the city dwellers from Bologna looking to
pass a bucolic Sunday in the countryside. It's the perfect dish to eat with these earthy wines grown on top of Monteveglio in the Colli Bolognesi.
Antonio heads up the winery and is a man of few words, most of which he saves for his vines. He works primarily with the native white Pignoletto
(aka Grechetto Gentile), and the rare red Negrettino, of which Antonio is one of only two producers in the region. The surrounding marl soils give
these wines a touch more tension and structure than others in the area. Rigorously organic, Antonio fought with all the local producers on the merits
of native yeasts, and his wines are more interesting for it. Antonio is also an intuitive and sensitive taster and cultivator of vines; he has names for
many of the vines and holds them as his own children, knowing which gave two bunches one year and none the next. These are traditional and
charming wines for a lazy Sunday lunch, wines that have been left to ferment and decant naturally with the seasons, and released when they are
ready. You can taste the wholeness of the fruit, the depth and texture of work well done in the vineyards. Start rolling out that tortellini dough.
Mariotti
Mirco Mariotti's vineyards are located in the eastern ‘Romagna’ part of Emilia-Romagna, an area much less known than the western Lambrusco area
of Emilia. In fact, you’ll notice that Mirco’s wines use an Emilia IGP designation for what should be Romagna IGP – if only it existed. Nevertheless, it’s
a place with lots of local color, there’s a beach nearby, and folks often play cards here into the night, accompanied by sweating bottles of their own
DIY sparkling wines from the local grapes. Mirco, too, had started off making some of these DIY wines made from his own vineyards in the Bosco
Eliceo area. The vines are old, some planted in 1952, some well over 100 years old. All are on native rootstock (piede franco), as they are planted in
the beach sand, just 300 meters from the waves. Mirco chooses to work exclusively with the local varieties: Fortana, the low alcohol, high acid red
with some pretty rustic-rusty tannins, ideal for a refreshing rosato, and Trebbiano Romagnolo and Malvasia di Candia for the bianco, where the
savory, herbal, salty aspect of growing vines so close to the beach really comes through. After hand harvesting, the first fermentations are all with
native yeasts in concrete tank. Secondary fermentation is in bottle, using must from the same harvest instead of adding sugar. There is one gentle
decantation, but other than that, the wines are not filtered or disgorged. Kick off your sandals, light up the grill, deal the cards. This farmer fizz is a
good bet on rare, local varieties that are unique, delicious, and without pretense.
Il Borghetto
If you think you’ve seen all of Chianti’s expressions, Il Borghetto’s extremely detailed and ethereal Sangiovese may surprise you. Owner Antonio
Cavallini is an outsider, as the Chianti consortium has often denied him DOCG status for his wines. They cite his use of Burgundy bottles and other
"problems" with the wine. As Bob Dylan sings in Absolutely Sweet Marie, "To live outside the law, you must be honest." And it’s no secret that some
of Italy’s best producers, some of it's most honest producers, are living "outside the [DOC/G] law." Antonio organically farms 5ha of vineyards and
12ha of olive groves in Montefiridolfi, a hilltop town in the northwest corner of Chianti Classico. The area could be considered a 'sottozona' or
subzone of the San Casciano zone. The clay soil with some limestone has excellent water retention and gives wines with finesse, freshness, and
elegance, even during hot and dry vintages. The vineyard consists of an interesting mix of Sangiovese clones and biotypes (e.g. F9/R24 Biondi Santi
clone). The harvest takes place in multiple passes row by row. The musts are then fermented in multiple parcels in the cellar before a final blending.
Antonio ferments using a percentage of whole clusters, which is unusual in Italy. This technique gives the wines a distinctive aromatic elegance and
silky tannins. The approach in the cellar, in general, is minimal intervention, including native yeast fermentations in large open concrete vats or plastic
containers. There are no pumps, and all racking is with gravity. Herbal notes, crushed flowers, and elegant fruit describe the wines in general. If these
Sangiovese wines are made by a Chianti outsider, I say let him in.
Le Masse di Lamole
Lamole could be thought of as a sub-zone of Chianti Classico with its unique, high altitude vineyards (400-650m), grown on marl and sandstone soils.
Lamole produces elegant wines that are often described as 'profumati' or aromatic (red fruits, rosa canina, Iris flower, orange zest), with structure built
more on acidity rather than tannins. Toscana, yes, but nothing rustic here. Le Masse di Lamole has the highest vineyards in the area at 650m. The
mountaintop vineyards are unprotected and are home to some 100+ year-old, albarello (bush) vines, many of which are planted on their own roots
(thanks to the sandstone soils in the area). Sometimes I think owners Anna Maria and Giuliano worship Zeus, for their Sangiovese is electric. A very
humble cellar is cut out of the wall of a medieval borgo. Vinification is done in steel without temperature controls, then botti di castagno (Chestnut, not
Slavonian oak) of 15 and 25 HL that don’t have a manufacturer’s name since they were made by local artisans over 100 years ago. Lamole is a
special area and there are few wines I wouldn’t want to drink there. But, I have to put an extra wink in for Le Masse. Maybe it’s just me and a perverse
desire to swallow Sangiovese-lightning and live to tell about it.
Ranchelle
The best wine producers have their own brand of authenticity, and it comes through in the wines. Christoph Fischer is a long-time German expat
who’s fixated on a preservation project (recupero) of Maremma’s abandoned vineyards and varieties. The Maremma area lies mostly along the
Tuscan coast. It’s a place where the ancient Etruscans once cultivated vines and where the Butteri (Tuscan cowboys) still roam. Morello di Scansano
is perhaps the best-known wine from the Maremma. It can offer juicy fun, but the old local varieties here are way more soulful. We know of no one
doing such interesting work as Christoph in the area: all organic farming, all native yeasts, extremely low sulfur. Soils are an even mix of sand,
limestone, and clay. Christof works from a one hectare plot of 60 year-old albarello (bush) vines in an area named on old maps as Millocchio: literally
a ‘thousand-eyes’ (mille + occhio). According to locals, it was an area where there were once so many vineyards on the hills that thousands of vine
buds would look down on you. From that one abandoned vineyard, he has planted two more hectares using massale selection. Both wines (one white
and one red) ferment to dryness in open-topped fermenters with skin contact for about three weeks and punchdowns twice a day using a multi-
pronged mandrone stick that he got from an old farmer in the area. Christoph’s makeshift cellar was a Super Alimentari (corner grocery store) in the
1970s. It’s extremely clean now. After a light pressing, most of the juice goes into used 500-liter tonneaux; about 30% goes into stainless steel tanks.
A tiny amount of sulfur is used only when he blends the two parts.
Umbria
Marco Merli
Marco is a naturalista in Umbria, just outside of Perugia, in a town called the House of the Devil (Casa del Diavolo). He has taken over various high-
altitude vineyards around him that have a mix of native grapes such as Grechetto, Malvasia, Verdicchio, Moscato, Trebbiano, and Sangiovese. His
cellar is filled with re-conditioned small cement tanks – the kinds that farmers would use for home production – except Marco has dozens of them, so
he can follow each parcel per tank up to bottling. The wines are a bit of eco-chic rustic, with punchy acidity and just a touch of fruit. A great addition to
the portfolio from a region in which it’s not easy to find something that really shines.
Marche
Borgo Paglianetto
Borgo Paglianetto is a village of ancient farmhouses and hillside vineyards locals have brought together to form a new winery that highlights natural
and organic viticulture. The winery is located in the Matelica growing area of the Marche region, where the high-acid Verdicchio variety reigns
supreme. "Terravignata" is textbook Matelica: green apples and tangerines, framed by savory botanical herbs. "Ergon" ferments with native yeasts,
giving a subtle wine that shows muted stone fruits, botanical herbs, and a tapering saline finish. The top wine, "Vertis", is from an old, high-altitude
vineyard that produces a more structured wine, with notes of botanicals herbs and perfectly ripe tangerines. More info coming soon!
Le Salse
Project Fuso21: regional, terroir-driven, daily drinkers, from farmers we know here in Italy – from their vineyards to your table. These are like the
wines you’ll find in a good trattoria when traveling in Italy, made from the native varieties that the locals drink. Keeping true to vini quotidiani, we
choose deliciousness over complexity and polish. All are vinified in cement or steel, lightly or not filtered, and delicious. The project connects growers
in small towns throughout Italy to folks just like us who don’t want industrial plonk for daily drinkers. This wine is made by Cantine Belisario, a high-
quality co-op in Matelica, whose members are all committed to working sustainably and organically in the vineyards. It’s our response to the ocean of
Pinot Grigio that has washed up on U.S. shores: refreshing, versatile, glug-able, but with the real character that most Pinot Grigios lack. The
vineyards are on top of a Jurassic-period raised seabed, near saltwater springs called 'le salse' (from 'sale' meaning salt) at an altitude of 450 meters.
Abruzzo
Bella Vita
While our focus is on small growers that work well in the vineyard and the cellar, we also understand the realities and needs of our customers. So, we
found an old vine Montepulciano that fits in qualitatively with our portfolio, and that we feel good about offering at a great price. Made by the third
generation, sibling winemaking team of Annalisa, Alessandro, Carlo, and Luca Botter (also responsible for Bella Vita Pinot Grigio from their holdings
in the Veneto).
Emidio Pepe
Emidio Pepe is one of the true legends in Italian wine – a man who set out in 1964 to make some of the best wines in the world through entirely
natural and manual methods in the vineyard and cellar. The family farms 15ha of vineyards and olive trees, all clustered around their cantina and
home in the village of Torano Nuovo, in the northern-most part of Abruzzo. All work in the vineyard is organic and now biodynamic, and everything is
harvested by hand. In the cantina as well, the Pepe family works entirely by hand – or by foot. Both the Montepulciano and Trebbiano grapes are
pressed by foot before being fermented with native yeast, and then aged entirely in 50 year-old, glass-lined cement tanks. The Pepe family are great
believers in cement – specifically in glass-lined cement (Il vetro è sincero, they like to say: “Glass is honest.”). No sulfur is added to any of the wines
at any point in the cellar, including before bottling. These are wines made to age for decades, and for Pepe, it’s equilibrium (rather than sulfur or aging
in wood) that enables a wine to age and improve. The 350,000-bottle library of both Montepulciano and Trebbiano date back to Emidio’s first vintage
in 1964. When they receive an order for an older vintage, Emidio’s wife, Rosa, goes down to the cellar, opens the requisite number of bottles, decants
them by hand, and recorks the bottles (13 opened bottles make 12 finished bottles). This hand decantation just before sale is for the Pepes a more
natural and gentle way to remove sediment than filtration, and the brief exposure to air is beneficial to Montepulciano, which is prone to reduction. The
family’s total production is about 70,000 bottles per year, each of which is a hand-made part of the history that Emidio Pepe began creating more than
50 years ago.
Q500
In 2006, Maurizio di Nicola aided by his great-nephew began the work of recuperating a century-old farm in the village of Colle Trotta, situated in the
shadow of the 2900m Gran Sasso mountain in Abruzzo. The crops include farro fields, fruit and olive trees, and 3.5ha of vineyards. Maurizio calls the
wines Q500 (Quota 500) because all of the vineyards sit at 500m or higher (and incidentally, they look down on Valentini’s). Farming is certified
organic, fermentations are indigenous, and the wines are unfiltered.
Cantine Matrone
The Matrone family has been cultivating vines on the slopes of Mount Vesuvius, just east of Naples, since the 1700s. Fast forward to this century,
when Andrea Matrone and his cousin Francesco reappropriated the original 18th-century family cantina and 2.3ha of vineyards on the southern
slopes of Vesuvius. If Etna’s volcanic wines are noble, Vesuvius’ are wild, with potassium and iron-rich volcanic soils providing more funky bitter and
salt notes. There’s a bianco made mostly from Caprettone (which may be none other than Trebbiano d’Abruzzo according to Andrea), a part of which
sees two days of skin contact, and a rosso made mostly from Piedirosso with other local varieties. Farming is uncertified organic and fermentations
are with a pied de cuve from the local vineyard yeasts. This is another compelling, young producer springing from an old family tradition — a
combination that increasingly is making some of the most exciting wines in Italy.
Luigi Tecce
A visit to Luigi Tecce can get you emotional. Luigi himself is a ball of them, and his Aglianico from Taurasi elicits them. His grandfather’s 'masseria'
(farmhouse) and vineyards are located in the Taurasi subzone known as Sud-Alta Valle (South-High Valley). It’s one of Taurasi’s highest altitude
growing areas, with a soil that’s layered with sand, limestone and Vesuvius’ pumice; it’s also the dwelling of Luigi’s 80+ year old vine-trees. There’s no
enologist and no agronomist, Luigi works here in relative solitude. Maybe that’s why there’s such an affinity between him and the wines. Strangely
enough, Luigi wasn’t groomed to be a farmer or 'vignaiolo'. After university, he worked in Rome as an assistant to a member of the Italian parliament.
Then suddenly in 1997, his father died and it caused Luigi’s homecoming back to the 4th generation farmhouse to take care of the property, which
included olive trees, goats, sheep, and of course vines. All this left no time for any practical knowledge to be handed down to him from his father or
grandfather. He didn’t know how to manage the property, let alone how to vinify wine, but he did have many memories from living there as a child, and
these guided him. So, in the sadness and loss of 1997, he started bottling for friends and family. He now has a total of 5ha of vines in two communes
(Paternopoli and Castelfranci) dispersed over seven plots. Luigi’s wines ferment with native yeasts, and nothing is added to or subtracted from the
wine. His craftiness comes from vineyard selection and mixing of the final barrels, and from the time-consuming and careful tending during harvest,
where he makes three passes. The first picking is in early October, when the grapes are not completely ripe, to add extra acidity and freshness. The
majority of the grapes are then picked in late October. In the early days of November, he picks the final bunches, which have grown throughout not
only the summer days and nights, but also the fading autumn sun. These are wines that have savory qualities, fleshy fruit, and structured tannins;
grand age-worthy wines, Monforte-esque, Barolo as the Aglianico of the North.
Pierluigi Zampaglione
Pierluigi Zampaglione’s family has farmed tomatoes, grains, and beans for generations in the town of Calitri, located 75 miles east of Avellino in the
Alta Irpinia. In 2002, Pierluigi decided to plant 2ha of Fiano vines at 800 meters of elevation and to make a single wine called "Don Chisciotte" (Don
Quixote – among other things, Pierluigi sees his vineyards and himself as tilting at the windmill farms that dot the Alta Irpinia landscape). Farming is
certified organic. All stainless steel, native yeasts, extended skin contact, very little sulfur, no other additives, and no filtration. The wine is complex
and chock full of character on the highest elevation Fiano vineyards we know of.
Calabria
Giuseppe Calabrese
Giuseppe Calabrese tends 4ha of mostly bush-trained old vines in the Pollino Mountains of northern Calabria, in the ancient town of Saracena. He
works without peer in this remote area; to say he’s plowing the rough road is an understatement. The winter’s here are bracing, summers are fresh,
thanks to the nearby mountains and high altitude (400 meters). The soil is a mix of Neogene marine deposits and limestone, as seen by the many
ancient limestone caves you find in the area. Giuseppe’s wines are an echo of the local wildness, and the ancient Saracean civilization, which still
imbues the area. His works focuses on the local native grapes. The red is the intriguing and moody Magliocco Dolce: smoky and salty, with black
fruits and grainy tannins. The limestone and 40+ year old bush vines make a difference. His white is from Guarnaccia (a synonym for the Campanian
variety Coda di Volpe) and Malvasia, and it is an exercise in controlled oxidation that will be a stunner for fans of the Jura ouillé genre who are looking
for more than roasted nuts. These are exciting times for Calabria, and exciting wines from a place far away and relatively unknown.
Sardegna
Cardedu
The vineyards of Cardedu (car-DAY-do) are in the area of Ogliastra, the most mountainous and least populous province on the island; a land of
turquoise shimmer and ragged-dry cliffs. Here on the southeast coast of Sardegna the Loi family grows and makes wines from the native varieties
Vermentino, Cannonau, and Monica. Cardedu is one of the island's better-known (in Sardegna, at least), traditional producers. The Loi family doesn’t
think of itself as a natural wine producer; they are not in that hipster 'giro'/circle. Yet, all wines are fermented with native yeasts in temperature
controlled tanks (if needed), and there’s dry farming without the use of herbicides or pesticides.
Silvio Carta
The Carta family has been making (and storing) wine in the sleepy coastal town of Oristano for generations. The local grape is Vernaccia (though not
the one from Gimignano). The vine was possibly introduced by the Phoenicians or it was cultivated from wild vines of the Tirso valley. The style is
"oxidative", but no Englishman created or discovered this wine (as happened in Marsala). And maybe that’s a shame because these wines deserve
to be better known outside their home. The wine is vinified dry, and the nose is chalky and intriguing. Multiple aged vintages are available. The
register is something new for us, falling somewhere amid the mineral tones of Fino, the nuttiness of Marsala, and a bit of passito fruit.
I Custodi
Mount Etna is a current darling of the Italian wine scene, and I Custodi is among the 21st-century Etna Renaissance producers who are now making
wines as compelling as the active volcano’s cooled lava flows. Founder Mario Paoluzi has teamed up with Etna guru Salvo Foti and I Vigneri, the local
vineyard workers who tend the ancient albarello vines and volcanic terracing. The Etna Rosso "Pistus" (mostly Nerello Mascalese) comes from Etna’s
north slope, where the wines are known to be structured and savoury. In 1774, the Florentine scholar Sestini called them ‘navigabile’ or ship-worthy,
keeping after long voyages. Don’t miss 150+ year-old vines mostly-Nerello cru "Aetneus". The racy Etna Bianco "Ante" (mostly Carricante) comes
from 1200m high vineyards on the sea-influenced eastern slopes; raw fish come alive with this wine. "Alnus" is the traditional ‘pista e mutta’ (press
and rack) Etna rosato. Organic.
Mortellito
Val di Noto sits in the southeast corner of the Sicilian triangle, dipping down to the latitude of North Africa. In spite of the warm climate, the local
varieties (especially Grillo and Frappato) and white limestone soils are capable of producing balanced wines with tension and moderate alcohol. Dario
Serrentino, after years of selling off his grapes (to naturalistas Frank Cornelissen, Lamoresca, inter alia), started to vinify and bottle his own wines in
2014 as Mortellito. Dario is a naturalista as well, but he insists on making clean wines that taste extreme only in their deliciousness. He works his
family’s 25ha, 15 of which are under vine; the rest are a mix of ancient olive groves and heirloom almond varieties. His wines have a tempered
hedonism, a mix of 'taking' in the sun (as the Italian idiom goes), and then 'taking a bath' in the salty-cool sea.
Spain
Basque Country/País Vasco
Bengoetxe
Bengoetxe means “come home” in Basque, and that is exactly what Iñaki and Rosa Maria Etxeberria did when they established their tiny, 3.5ha estate
in 2001. It turns out that the Etxeberria’s farm has a long history and unique terruño to go along with the singular wines they produce. Perched high up
on a clay slope, their ancient farmhouse has been handed down through the family for generations. After both phylloxera and civil war hit the area, the
vineyards were ripped out, only to be replanted to the native Hondarribi Zuri and Gros Manseng once the Etxeberrias returned. Organic from the
beginning, certification came in 2007, the first producer in the Basque Country to do so. Bengoetxe is one of the few producers in the DO that's not
located right next to the coast or directly near the town of Getaria. Using historic evidence of pre-phylloxera plantings in their town of Olaberria, Iñaki
fought for years to be included in the DO, finally achieving the status in 2008. Olaberria is a little warmer, especially in the summer, and the soils more
clay dominated than their coastal neighbors, leading to riper, sturdier grapes. Thankfully, the Etxeberrias do not intend to make a copy-cat Txakolina.
Classic and slow wild yeast fermentation takes place in small 3000 liter vats located in their home garage. The wine is then raised on the lees up to a
year with no batonnage. Sulfur levels are kept to a minimum, and because all CO2 is natural (not injected), the wine often does not show the spritzy
character of other Txakolis from Getaria. We can’t help but feel like this was how the Txakolis of the past tasted before commercial yeast, chemicals,
and heavy filtration took hold of the region. With Bengoetxe, we feel we have unearthed an authentic and treasured puzzle piece of Basque
winegrowing history.
Envínate
Envínate (meaning 'wine yourself') is the brainchild of four friends, winemakers Roberto Santana, Alfonso Torrente, Laura Ramos, and José Martínez.
This gang of four formed back in 2005 while studying enology at the University of Miguel Hernández in Alicante. Upon graduation, they formed a
winemaking consultancy, which eventually evolved into Envínate, a project that mainly focuses on exploring distinctive parcels in the Atlantic-inflected
regions of Ribeira Sacra and the Canary Islands, as well as other exceptional vineyard plots across the Iberian Peninsula. Their collective aim is to
make profoundly pure and authentic wines that express the terruño of each parcel in a clear and concise manner. To this end, no chemicals are used
in any of the Envínate vineyards, all parcels are picked by hand, the grapes are foot-trodden, and the wines are fermented exclusively with wild yeasts
with a varying proportion of whole grape clusters included. For aging, the wines are raised in old barrels and sulfur is only added at bottling if needed.
The results are some of the most exciting and honest wines being produced in Spain today.
Guímaro
Cultivated since Roman times, Ribeira Sacra’s steep, terraced vineyards are some of the most picturesque and treacherous in the world of wine —
think Douro, Côte-Rôtie, or the Mosel. Like those most dramatic terruños, wine-growing here is not for the faint of heart; it takes spirited determination,
unwieldy optimism, a sense of tradition, and a willingness to collaborate. All of these qualities are embodied by the young Pedro Rodríguez of
Guímaro. Pedro descends from a long line of colleteiros working in the Amandi area, Ribeira Sacra’s most prime sub-zone with south facing vineyards
planted on slate just above the river Sil. His parents, Manolo and Carmen, still work the vineyards daily and also maintain a small finca of mixed
agriculture. In 1991, Pedro decided to take over the family winery and named it Guímaro, which means "rebel" in Gallego and was a nickname of
Pedro’s grandfather, and became one of the first adegas to join the Ribeira Sacra DO in 1996. Pedro immediately set about making significant
improvements in the vineyards, such as reducing yields of the commonly over-cropped Mencía grape, eliminating chemicals, and paying attention to
the different plots’ expositions, which greatly helps to preserve natural acidity in the grapes. Old-fashioned winemaking methods were reclaimed as
well: wild yeast fermentation, foot treading in open-top vessels, stem inclusion, working with low sulfur, and aging in used barrels. Never resting on his
laurels, Pedro is leading his estate to organic certification and has undertaken a massive project of planting heirloom grape varieties at the highest
elevations in Amandi. With this ever-evolving approach, there is no doubt the future is looking bright at Guímaro. 152.76
Luis Rodriguez
Luis Rodriguez has been quietly crafting remarkable Ribeiro wines since 1988. From the beginning, Luis' aim has been to showcase the enormous
potential for the once nearly extinct native grapes to produce distinctive and age-worthy wines. Luis studied enology and philosophy in Madrid, took
the time to visit many of Europe’s great wine regions, and even served as the president of the Ribeiro DO for many years. Over time, Luis has
accumulated just over 5ha of vineyards scattered over nearly 100 micro-plots primarily located in the town of Arnoia, a village with some of the
steepest south-facing vineyards in Ribeiro. Here, the soils are decomposed granite with sandy topsoil. Luis' vines range from 10-50 years old, with
many of them being planted by Luis himself. Having grown up in the village of Arnoia and by focusing his work there, Luis knows where the good
vineyards are located. He has been steadily converting these plots from the bulk wine grapes Palomino and Garnacha Tintorera to the native
Treixadura, Brancellao, Lado, and Ferrol just to name a few. His philosophy in the vineyard is to maintain balance, with no herbicides ever used, and
treatments applied only if absolutely necessary, and never for a month before the harvest to help preserve the native yeasts existent on the grapes
that help start fermentation. Luis works in the same tiny adega originally built by his grandfather, utilizing a mixture of temperature-controlled
equipment and a variety of sizes of oak barrels, with a small amount of new barrels reserved for the top "Escolma" wines that are only made in
certain vintages. It is time for the world to notice that fine Ribeiro wine prevails!
Nanclares
Located in Cambados right on the Atlantic Ocean, Alberto Nanclares has been quietly crafting some of the most serious, ocean-infused, age-worthy
Albariños in the Val do Salnés subzone of Rías Baixas. After a career as an economist for many years, in 1992, Alberto and his wife wanted to unwind
their careers near the ocean. As happenstance, the small home they purchased came with some vineyard land. Initially, Alberto had no plans to make
wine, but the idea of farming grew on him, so he invested in some winemaking tools and set up a tiny winery in his garage. In the beginning, Alberto
farmed conventionally but quickly became disenchanted with the use of chemicals. Gradually, he moved away from the systematic herbicide and
pesticide use and has now eliminated chemicals altogether with full-fledged organic farming and some work with biodynamics, a rarity in this humid,
Atlantic-influenced region. Alberto currently tends 2.5ha of vines, all trained in the traditional pergola style, and divided into 12 small parcels in the
parroquias of Cambados and Meaño. Some of the vines are so close to the ocean that Alberto gathers seaweed to use for compost, and he does not
plow in order to keep the surrounding flora and fauna in their natural habitat. After harvesting by hand, all of his wines are fermented with wild yeasts
by parcel, and he chooses not to de-acidify, preferring the edginess of the naturally high acidity. Malolactic fermentation rarely occurs, and the wines
spend a good amount of time (usually more than one year) on their lees before being bottled without clarification or filtration and only a minimal dose
of sulfur. Nanclares wines are angular and 'vin de garde' in style with great concentration, crystalline precision, and a distinct saline character that
pairs effortlessly with the abundant fresh seafood the region is known for.
La Rioja
Bodega Akutain
The story of Bodega Akutain begins over four decades ago when Rioja’s storied estates were consistently producing Spain’s most highly sought-after
wines. At this time, Juan Peñagaricano Akutain was an engineer in nearby Basque Country, working for a company that sold cooling units to wineries.
Juan developed personal relationships with many Rioja bodegas and spent time tasting and learning in the region, most notably in the cellars of two
of the great traditionalists of yesteryear – CVNE and La Rioja Alta. These experiences gave him the confidence to plant his first vineyard in 1975,
located 5km west of Haro at Rioja’s epicenter. With a desire to work in the château style, Juan acquired a horse stable adjacent to the vineyard and
converted it into a small bodega, and Akutain has been making wine here in this small but highly functional bodega ever since. They strive to produce
wines in the traditional style set forth by the Grand Bodegas, but on a much smaller scale, and most importantly, to singularly reflect the wind-swept,
high-elevation terruño of Rioja Alta. Today the property is comprised of 6.5ha of four distinct vineyard plots, all estate-owned and located in the Rioja
Alta subzone, ranging from 25-40 years of age. Juan’s son, the young and ambitious Jon Peñagaricano, is now handling the day-to-day operations.
Today, Jon is leading the estate into the 21st century, converting their highest elevation vineyard to organic viticulture, with the rest of the estate
following suit. Harvesting is by hand, all fermentations are with natural yeasts in fiberglass vats (with no temperature control), and all aging is in used
American oak. They bottle age for a significant amount of time in natural caves that the Akutains built under the first vineyard they planted back in
1975. The resultant wines are throwbacks to Rioja’s past – 12.5 to 13% alcohol, beautifully aromatic, nuanced, and age-worthy; traditional Grower
Rioja at its best!
Siete
Siete Rioja comes from a second generation family farm using environmentally friendly methods for producing the best wines. Vineyards are divided
among several municipalities – Calahorra, Andosilla, and San Adrián – all within Rioja Baja. The soils are diverse, with limestone dominating, but also
sand, clay, and gravel. Siete is a wine made especially for Vinos de Terruños in collaboration with brothers Andrés and Ramón Serrano, pioneers in
organic farming in Rioja Baja. Tempranillo, Garnacha, and Mazuelo are each vinified separately in stainless steel before final blending.
Navarra
Verasol
The region of Navarra sits just northeast of the bordering Rioja. It is a region that enjoys three distinct climate influences – Atlantic, Continental, and
Mediteranean – as well as a myriad of soil types and elevations. This makes Navarra one of the most interesting regions for winegrowing in all of
Spain. The fruit for this cuvée is sourced from organically farmed vines around the town of Olite, a winemaking town in the Ribera Alta subzone of
Navarra. Due to its limestone sub-soils, high elevation, and accompanying fluctuations between daytime and nighttime temperatures, this is an area
known to produce excellent Tempranillo and Garnacha based wines. Verasol is a cuvée made especially for Vinos de Terruños in collaboration with
Charo Moriones, a vintner with deep roots and intimate knowledge of the Navarra region. Fermented and raised in old cement vats. Bottled unfiltered.
Goyo García
Goyo García Viadero, the son of one of the most respected winemaking families in the Ribera del Duero, has been crafting iconoclastic, naturally-
made wines since the 1980s. Greatly inspired by natural winemakers, like Pierre Overnoy from the Jura, Goyo started his current project of reviving
old vineyards to produce his own naturally made wines in 2003. With the help of his wife Diana, Goyo farms three, tiny single-plots in the heart of
Ribera del Duero near the town of Roa, all on different soil types and altitudes. The vineyards here are very old (the youngest vines are 80 years old),
and all the vines are head-trained and interplanted with white grapes. Goyo harvests first for acidity, and then coferments red and white grapes
together, just as things were done in Ribera del Duero back in the good old days. In the cellar, the grapes are all destemmed, fermented exclusively
with wild yeast, and nothing is added during élevage (including SO2). The wines are then raised in old French barrels at an underground, century-old
cellar. Goyo also makes wine in Cantabria, the region where his mother comes from, high up in the Picos de Europa mountain range, where there is a
little-known outcropping of old-vine Mencía and Palomino planted on pure broken slate. Using similar practices as his Duero reds, Goyo produces
beautiful mountain-laden, mineral-inflected wines from here. That’s right, Palomino gone Wild!
Isaac Cantalapiedra
The Cantalapiedras descend from several generations of winegrowers working in the municipality of La Seca, a dusty town of 1,000 people that is
considered to be the heart of the Rueda appellation. While most producers in the region have embraced the ultra-modern styles of Verdejo (high
yields, machine harvesting, selected yeasts, cold fermentation, heavy filtration, and copious amounts of sulfur) to make an internationally appealing
wine, the Cantalapiedras have taken a decidedly different approach. Although there are records of the Cantalapiedras’ grape-growing dating to the
19th century, the birth of the current estate can be traced to 1949 when patriarch Heliodoro planted his first vineyard plot at the age of 15. For many
years, Heliodoro’s son Isaac worked alongside him, and together they built a 20ha domaine that is now certified organic. In the past, they sold the
bulk of their grape production to larger producers in the area. It is with the third generation – Helio has since passed away and Isaac’s son Manuel
has joined – that the family has established a small cellar of their own, bottling their first vintage in 2014. Being farmers first, they strive to go beyond
organic and incorporate many biodynamic practices into their viticulture. Their grapes are oftentimes harvested later than other producers in the
region, and they keep about 7ha of their vines to vinify themselves, selling the rest to the old relationships of the family. In the cellar, Manuel utilizes
wild yeasts for fermentation, minimal amounts of sulfur, and no other additions. They produce a wide range of wines, from more soil-driven, single-plot
wines, to flor-aged wines (historically traditional for the region), as well as skin-contact wines and pét-nats with no added SO2. These are winegrowers
who promise to be dynamic and forward thinking. Given the excellent quality of the wines right out of the gate, we are beyond excited to see what the
future holds for Manuel and Isaac Cantalapiedra.
La Senda
Bierzo, located in the northwest province of León, is known for its Mencía-based wines with plenty of fruit and spice, as well as an important stop for
travelers who walk the Camino de Santiago. Here, the travel-weary pilgrim will find hearty Castellana food and much-needed repose before crossing
the Cantabrian Mountains into Galicia toward the North Atlantic coast. Diego Losada is in many ways a fellow pilgrim, in search of the "Atlantic" in his
wines, and even named his project La Senda, meaning "the path". Diego originally studied organic chemistry at university, acquainting himself with
winegrowing through a scientific perspective. Eventually, Diego rejected the rigid nature of science, turning to the open-ended and intuitive philosophy
of natural winegrowing. After working at a few larger wineries in the region, Diego decided that he needed to make wine his own way. In 2013, Diego
began by recuperating three small parcels to bottle his first wine. Today, he currently rents 15 parcels totaling just over 5ha, focusing on bush-trained
vines that are at least 60 years old at high elevation, in sites relatively isolated from other vineyards so any chemical treatments cannot taint his soils.
Using organic viticulture, Diego encourages biodiversity, letting the natural flora grow amongst the vines. In the winery, Diego works with extremely
low-intervention since he wants his wines to retain the energy and life of the vineyards. As such, he employs a mix of unlined concrete vats and older
oak and chestnut casks and foudre for fermentation and aging, and there are no pumps, no battonage, and no additives besides minimal amounts of
SO2 when necessary. The results are simply some of the most revolutionary Bierzo wines that we have encountered.
M. Sokolin
After working as a sommelier in San Francisco at Michael Mina and Acquarello, Mitchell Sokolin decided to spend the last several years traveling the
globe learning to make in both hemispheres, at places like Mac Forbes in Australia. Finally, for his first solo project, he has settled down in the
southern part of Castilla y León in Sierra de Salamanca. The grapes for this wine come from a vineyard planted in 2004 as part of research
collaboration with the regional government. Called "La Espaldera" ('trellis' in English), it represents the most comprehensive collection of the known
clones of Rufete. While the trellised, cordon-pruned vines are a departure from the more traditional bush vines of the region, it is tightly planted on a
steep WNW-facing slope of decomposed granite and quartz, supported by hand-built stone terraces. It has been farmed organically (and certified as
such) since it was planted, and the winemaking follows a very minimalist approach, with SO2 as the only addition.
Vevi
The wine region Rueda is located in the heart of Spain, in the southwestern part of Castilla y León. It is high in elevation and possesses a continental
climate with wide shifts between very warm days and cold nights. Rueda has a long tradition of winegrowing and is the ancestral home of the noble
Verdejo grape. Verdejo makes one of the most distinctive white wines in all of Spain. Vevi Rueda is a cuvée made especially for Vinos de Terruños in
collaboration with Silvia García, an organic farmer and vintner with deep roots and intimate knowledge of the Rueda region. Vevi expresses the
unique personality of the native Verdejo grape, along with the inherent qualities of the Rueda terruño. It is a balanced, drinkable, and food-friendly
vino blanco. Fermented in stainless steel vat and raised on the lees 6-8 months before bottling.
Aragón
Bielsa
The wine region Cariñena is located just southeast of Navarra in the province of Zaragoza. It is part of the larger political region of Aragón, the area
considered to be the ancestral home of the Garnacha grape. Cariñena possesses an ideal terruño for growing and making wine from old vine
Garnacha. The soils are poor and limestone based. The climate is continental, with hot days to ensure ripening and cool nights to preserve acidity,
along with a unique cooling influence from a wind that blows from the north, called Cierzo. This cooling influence helps give unusually delicate
aromatics and elegant wines from the late-ripening and potentially alcoholic Garnacha grape. Bielsa Garnacha is meant to be a drinkable and food-
friendly wine that expresses the unique personality and inherent qualities of self-sustaining, old vine viticulture and the Cariñena terruño. It is a cuvée
made especially for Vinos de Terruños in collaboration with Ana Becoechea, a vintner with deep roots and intimate knowledge of the Cariñena region.
Fermented and raised 3 months in American barrels. Bottled unfiltered.
Catalonia
German Gilabert
Cava is Spain’s most famous sparkling wine. In order to be called Cava, the wine has to be made using 'método tradicional', where the secondary
fermentation happens in the bottle. 95% of Cava is produced in the Penedès area of Catalonia, located just southwest of Barcelona. It is no wonder
that Cava is the drink of choice in the many tapas bars of the great city. The grapes used for German Gilabert come from the subzone Alt Penedès,
where the highest elevation plots are located. Only native grapes are used, the vines are farmed organically, and the wine is bottled without added
sugar or Brut Nature. German Gilabert is a cuvée made especially for Vinos de Terruños in collaboration with a vintner who has deep roots and
intimate knowledge of Cava production. Primary fermentation in stainless steel vats. Secondary fermentation in the bottle, and it is raised on the lees
18-20 months before disgorgement. Bottled with no dosage.
Extremadura
Envínate
Envínate (meaning 'wine yourself') is the brainchild of four friends, winemakers Roberto Santana, Alfonso Torrente, Laura Ramos, and José Martínez.
This gang of four formed back in 2005 while studying enology at the University of Miguel Hernández in Alicante. Upon graduation, they formed a
winemaking consultancy, which eventually evolved into Envínate, a project that mainly focuses on exploring distinctive parcels in the Atlantic-inflected
regions of Ribeira Sacra and the Canary Islands, as well as other exceptional vineyard plots across the Iberian Peninsula. Their collective aim is to
make profoundly pure and authentic wines that express the terruño of each parcel in a clear and concise manner. To this end, no chemicals are used
in any of the Envínate vineyards, all parcels are picked by hand, the grapes are foot-trodden, and the wines are fermented exclusively with wild yeasts
with a varying proportion of whole grape clusters included. For aging, the wines are raised in old barrels and sulfur is only added at bottling if needed.
The results are some of the most exciting and honest wines being produced in Spain today.
Castilla-La Mancha
Deya
Sourced from an organic grower in Castilla with a large collection of relatively old, bush-trained vines, Deya comes from several vineyards, between
40 and 50 years old. After a 10 day maceration, the wine is fermented and aged entirely in stainless steel. A fresh take on 100% Tempranillo from
Castilla-La Mancha for a great price.
Envínate
Envínate (meaning 'wine yourself') is the brainchild of four friends, winemakers Roberto Santana, Alfonso Torrente, Laura Ramos, and José Martínez.
This gang of four formed back in 2005 while studying enology at the University of Miguel Hernández in Alicante. Upon graduation, they formed a
winemaking consultancy, which eventually evolved into Envínate, a project that mainly focuses on exploring distinctive parcels in the Atlantic-inflected
regions of Ribeira Sacra and the Canary Islands, as well as other exceptional vineyard plots across the Iberian Peninsula. Their collective aim is to
make profoundly pure and authentic wines that express the terruño of each parcel in a clear and concise manner. To this end, no chemicals are used
in any of the Envínate vineyards, all parcels are picked by hand, the grapes are foot-trodden, and the wines are fermented exclusively with wild yeasts
with a varying proportion of whole grape clusters included. For aging, the wines are raised in old barrels and sulfur is only added at bottling if needed.
The results are some of the most exciting and honest wines being produced in Spain today.
Gutiérrez de la Vega
For nearly 40 years, Felipe Gutiérrez de la Vega and his wife, Pilar, have championed traditional winegrowing in the sun-soaked region of coastal
Alicante. Inspired by the historical wine styles of their area and the artists and writers who enliven their cuvée labels and names, the family produces
a diverse range of 'vinos mediterraneos' from dry to sweet. In 1982, the couple moved the winery into an old Almazara (olive mill) in the secluded
village of Parcent to have better access to the diverse range of vineyard sites throughout their region. They currently farm 10ha (2 owned, 8 rented)
of head-pruned vines with a variety of parcel sizes, expositions, and elevations around La Marina Alta, as well as inland in the Sierra de Salinas
mountains. Since they are only a few kilometers from the sea, the nearby Mediterranean brings breezes and a pleasant humidity to their rugged
mountainside. Organic farming combined with the earthy soils, high elevations, and proximity to the ocean allow the grapes to fully ripen while
maintaining very good acidity. The grape varieties are as varied as the climates. Moscatel comes from the lower lying areas close to the ocean and is
planted on ancient terraces of chalky, iron-rich clay soils. Monastrell makes its home in the ungrafted sandy soils of the Sierra de Salinas. Giró, the
local clone of Garnacha, comes from coastal mountain vineyards planted on clay-calcareous soils. Their winemaking approach has always been
artisan: natural yeasts are employed for fermentation, and no other products are used in the winery except for judicious amounts of sulfur. Soleras are
maintained for their highly acclaimed noble sweet wines, and based on the direction of Felipe, there will be a bottling periodically with an age
designation. Clearly, the results are worth the effort, as these wines are nothing short of brilliant and show the truly authentic approach that Gutiérrez
de la Vega has brought to fine winemaking in Alicante.
Vera de Estenas
Historically, the high-yielding Bobal grape was regarded as only useful for simple, acidic red and rosé wines destined for the local co-op. Recently, a
handful of quality-minded growers, using artisanal farming and vinification, are producing highly individual wines of true Mediterranean complexity,
with remarkable freshness, moderate alcohol, and calcareous soil-inflected tension. One of the torchbearers of Bobal is Vera de Estenas, possibly the
most traditional producer in the Utiel-Requena DO of Valencia, with some of the oldest Bobal holdings in Spain. Founded in 1945 by Francisco
Martinez Bermell, Vera de Estenas has been crafting wines from their 47ha of organic estate vineyards since their inception. Situated at 800m
elevation near the mouth of the Estenas river near the foot of the Sierra del Remedio mountains, their 'en vaso' trained vineyards run northwest to
southeast along a broad swath of calcareous clay soils. Summer brings scorching heat, but a cooling wind called the 'Solano' brings relief, and
nighttime temperatures can drop substantially due to the high elevation, helping to preserve acidity in the grapes. Under the current leadership of
Felix Martinez, Vera de Estenas is producing some of the region's most compelling wines, from Bobal vines as old as 100 years.
Andalucía
Bodegas Alonso
After years working as a construction engineer, Seville native Fran Asencio and his brother, Fernando, have embarked on one of the most ambitious
projects in the region, attempting to resurrect the historic Pedro Romero bodega after its unfortunate economic collapse in 2014. Located in the
“barrio bajo” in downtown Sanlúcar de Barrameda, the Pedro Romero cellars cover an area of almost 1ha and are full of nearly 10,000 butts of
Sherry dating back to the winery’s founding in 1860, including soleras for legendary brands such as Gaspar Florido, Ánsar Real, and Fernando
Méndez. Located close to the Guadalquivir river in the almost at sea level, the bodega has almost perfect exposure to the west wind, making the
conditions ideal for producing and aging Manzanilla. Aside from these incredible old stocks, the Asencios have also purchased 13ha of their own
vineyards in the Pagos Balbaina and Miraflores, which they will use to refresh 40 old butts from Pedro Romero to make their own Manzanilla with
true vineyard-to-bottle traceability. Meanwhile, they have already bought Manzanilla from other almacenistas to establish a separate solera, which
they are using to help fund their work with the old stocks. The Asencio brothers are acutely aware of the enormous scale of the work needed and
that they are now responsible for a piece of Sanlúcar history, but they are dedicated to the task of keeping these wine jewels alive.
Canary Islands
Carmelo Peña Santana
A native to the Canary Islands, Carmelo Peña Santana worked in Chile, the Douro, and Bierzo before settling back in his native Gran Canaria to start
his personal project. The second most populous of the volcanic Canary Islands after Tenerife, Gran Canaria is home to Las Palmas, one of the two
capitals of the islands, and is peaked by Pico de las Nieves at 1949m elevation. It is considered a desert climate due to its consistent warm
temperatures and minimal precipitation (around 9 inches per year) and has extreme variations in climate and landscape. Carmelo focuses on the
upper area of San Mateo just northeast of the peak, where there are old vineyards at 1200m elevation and higher. His goals are to contribute to the
recovery of abandoned vineyards here, to respect the terrain and work in an ecological and biodynamic way, and interpret the land, focusing on
making the best possible wine that can come from each plot. To this end, everything is worked in a very artisanal way in the cellar: native yeasts,
destemming by hand, judicious use of SO2, and long macerations with little extraction are preferred. The wines are not clarified or filtered, and all
work is done manually, from harvesting to bottling to labeling.
Portugal
Duriense
Mary Taylor
When founding partner Mary Taylor first fell in love with wine in the early 90s, it was the European classics that truly spoke to her and stole her heart.
As a young professional selling wine, she quickly learned to appreciate wine in the “Old World” way — not as a luxury good reserved for special
occasions, but a living agricultural product that belongs to everyday life. After many years working with the wines of Europe, Mary arrived at an
important insight. Left in the dark by decades of simplistic marketing efforts that placed grape above geography, American consumers needed a
brand they could trust to decipher the complex notion of terroir in a clear and straightforward way. Out of this realization, the “White Label” series
was born. Today, it is Mary’s mission to unlock the world of European appellation wines by working with individual growers in multiple villages — from
Bordeaux to Nîmes to Valençay to the Douro and beyond — who produce exceptional, regionally-distinctive wines at extremely accessible prices. In
the traditional spirit of the Old World, each Mary Taylor wine has been selected as a faithful ambassador of its geographic origin, true to local traditions
and the vision of the individual farmer who bottled it. All fruit is farmed sustainably or organically, only indigenous varieties are used, fermentations are
with native yeast, and only inert vessels are used for aging to yield a set of wines of genuine quality and integrity that will bring the magic of their
terroirs to life wherever you choose to enjoy them.
Domaine Tatsis
"Our family is as steeped in winemaking history as anyone could imagine," says Periklis Tatsis, one half of the sibling team that owns and operates
Domaine Tatsis with his younger brother Stergios. During the disintegration of the Ottoman Empire and the forced population exchanges in 1924, the
Tatsis’ grandparents came from Ano Vodeno in Eastern Romylia, an area of Thrace that equates roughly to today’s southern Bulgaria. Periklis
explains that his people were always grape growers and winemakers and it had been the trade of the family since time immemorial. When the Tatsis
family was moved to Greece, they chose to settle in Goumenissa, an area (and appellation) that was covered in vines and spoke to their values and
history. The fit was natural, and the Tatsis family property started with a scant 4ha that has now grown into 14ha today with additions that they’ve
made since taking over the domaine from their father in 1996. Periklis works the land and oversees the vines with Stergios in charge of making the
wine, although the lines often blur as with any family endeavor. The wines are certified organic and many biodynamic principals are applied, but the
best way to describe them is as one of the small group (three or four at most) of original natural winemakers in Greece to pop up in the 1990s, at a
time when international varieties, commercial yeasts, and 100% new oak was the norm in the rest of the country. Domaine Tatsis wines can easily be
seen as traditionalist in nature but that would be only a part of the story. They constantly experiment, doing long macerations of their native white
varieties and long élevage for roses. They release their appellation Goumenissa with significant bottle aging for a true representation of the wine as it
should be enjoyed. They are both a throwback as well as on the forefront of the wine scene in Greece with nary a care of what anyone else is doing.
Thessalia
Domaine Zafeirakis
Domaine Zafeirakis represents one of the most exciting new domaines of Greece. Nestled in the foothills of Mount Olympus in the region of Thessaly,
Christos Zafeirakis has built a winery both in honor and continuation of the four generations of winemakers in his family that preceded him. Having an
impressive resume including completing his enology degree at the University of Milan and consecutive years of work in Tuscany, Piedmont, and Alto
Adige, Christos returned to his home of Tyrnavos and immediately started to set new standards by creating the first organic vineyard in the area in
2005. As if that weren't enough, he extended the family's holdings to 8ha and worked tirelessly to reintroduce the obscure, native variety Limniona,
which was nearly extinct due to the phylloxera epidemic 80 years prior. Zafeirakis' obsession is first and foremost with the soil. The area of Tyrnavos
has high clay deposits which dominate the overall terrior, with sand, flint, and limestone scattered throughout due to the fact that this area once had
an ancient river run through it. Christos' wines are now all certified organic. Spontaneous yeast fermentation is a must, whether the vinification occurs
in stainless steel or in the 1200L Austrian oak fermentors he uses for his reds. Additionally, an intensive massale selection is taking place in the
vineyards, and Christos continues to refine the clonal selection through this process to raise the bar of his wines year after year.
Koutsoyannopoulos
Koutsoyannopoulos Winery, founded in the late 19th century by brothers Gregoris and Dimitris Koutsoyannopoulos on the island of Santorini, is one
of the oldest continuously producing winemaking families in Greece. From 1870 to 1917 the bulk of Koutsoyannopoulos’ exports went to Odessa in
Ukraine. And while the Russian revolution in 1917 closed this chapter of exportation, the market opened up in France, Italy, and the rest of Western
Europe. Today, four generations later, this winery continues to operate under the care and supervision of its present owner, Georgios
Koutsoyannopoulos. The estate vineyards are comprised of 15ha of vines, which continue to be cultivated in the traditional way of weaving them into
baskets or crowns. These vineyards lie in the areas of Vothonas, Megalochori, and Fira. Long-term contracts with farming families on the island also
bolster the amount of fruit available in this bare and sparse land. What makes the vineyards in Santorini unique is the volcanic soil on which they
grow. The soil consists of white volcanic ash mixed with schist and limestone, with hardly any organic matter. The ash soil traps the moisture in the
air during the nighttime and early morning hours, acting as a kind of reservoir, initially storing water and then providing necessary moisture to the vine.
The combination of the especially hot and dry climate with the volcanic soil works to keep disease in check; phylloxera cannot survive here, so
rootstocks are ungrafted, with some of the oldest continually producing vines on the island estimated at nearly 400 years old. Koutsoyannopoulos’
traditional renditions of Assyrtiko bring all of the pedigree of the variety, terroir, and history of Santorini together flawlessly.
Crete
Domaine Economou
Domaine Economou is one of Greece's most artisanal and sought-after wineries. Yiannis Economou, the heart and soul of the estate, is a 'vin de
terroir' natural winemaker of extraordinary ability. With an enology degree from Alba, years of cellar work in Germany, Bordeaux (at Château
Margaux), and Piedmont under the guidance of Nebbiolo maestros such as Ceretto and Scavino, he returned to Crete in 1994. Upon resurrecting
the family vineyards, Yiannis brought his considerable winemaking experience to bear on the rare, native varieties of eastern Crete. Yiannis treats
his wines with a kind of obsessive care rarely seen in modern winemaking: selling off lesser vintages when not satisfied with a year, suffering through
incredibly low yields rather than chemically treating the vines, and bottling and releasing his wines when he feels they are ready instead of being
dictated by market principles. The domaine’s 16ha of organic vineyards are located in the villages of Ziros, Katsidoni, and Etia at 600-650m altitude
in what is otherwise known as the Ziros plateau. It is a sparse, ethereal place, a terroir of such a singularly exposed nature (we wore sweaters at
night in July) as to lend itself to absolutely lunar comparisons. In its main part, the vineyard is cultivated with 35-70-year-old, ungrafted vines. Domaine
Economou’s red Sitias are made predominately from the local clone of Liatiko, found nowhere else in Crete (let alone Greece or the rest of the
Mediterranean). It is a small-berried clone that diverges greatly from other Liatikos in the central and western parts of the island. Other local varieties
such as Mandilari, Vilana, and Thrapsathiri make up the rest of the production. These are natural wines with nothing added in the winery besides a
small dose of sulfur before bottling. Domaine Economou releases wines only when Yiannis deems them ready; consequently, many vintages are held
back for 10-15 years after harvest. Needless to say, these are some of the most idiosyncratic and distinctive wines in the world.
Brea
Brea is a collaboration between "New California Wine" OG, Chris Brockway of Broc Cellars, and wine importer and logistics veteran, Tim Elenteny.
Their goal is to craft site-specific, terroir-driven, sustainably-farmed versions of beloved California grape varieties, such as Chardonnay, Cabernet
Sauvignon, and Pinot Noir. By working closely with farmers and choosing unique vineyard sites, the two are able to craft classic expressions of these
grapes while also keeping them accessible in both price and quality, ready to drink now but also suitable for short term aging. The work is natural in
the cellar, utilizing only native yeasts for fermentation, with no added bacteria, enzymes, or powdered tannins, no new oak, and minimal use of sulfur.
These are real deal, unadulterated expressions of Cali fruit that we believe are a big step above most “private labels”.
Broc Cellars
After growing up in Nebraska and working in Seattle, Chris Brockway arrived in California to study winemaking. Following a textbook education at UC
Davis and Fresno State, Chris’ experience of drinking and enjoying more low-intervention, natural wines persuaded him to take a somewhat different
path than most of his classmates. In 2002, he began working at an urban winery in Oakland before leaving in 2006 to set up his own label from a
small industrial unit in Berkeley. Today, he runs his operation from a slightly bigger premises around the corner, but the focus remains the same:
producing site-specific wines from off-the-beaten-path vineyards or with unique, heritage grapes varieties, working only with fruit that is organically or
biodynamically grown, and taking a decidedly hands-off approach in the cellar, with only natural ferments and no additions other than sulfur when
needed. Chris' work continues to push the boundaries of "The New California", and his wines are some of the most compelling, terroir-expressive
examples being produced in the state today.
Keep Wines
Winemakers Jack Roberts (assistant winemaker at Matthiasson) and his wife, Johanna Jensen (formerly of Scholium Project and Broc Cellars), have
come together to create Keep Wines. They are influenced by the old world, with a focus on less-ripe fruit, organic farming (all vineyards are either
working or certified), minimal manipulation in the cellar, and great ageability. In the vigneron tradition, they do as much of the work themselves as
possible from vineyard to bottling. Jack, who originally hails from England, references his heritage in the name and label of the wine; the image is of
Beverstone Castle, an 11th century Norman stronghold in Gloucestershire, England where Jack’s father was born and raised. All that remains of
Beverstone today is what you see on the label; the moat and the tall ‘keep’ (from the Middle English 'kype', meaning barrel or cask), which was the
defenders' last resort in a siege. It was also where they stored their most precious possessions, especially their wine.
Oregon
Analemma
The analemma is a figure 8 shape made by the Sun’s annual migratory path between the northern and southern hemispheres as seen from the Earth.
This pattern is caused by the tilt of the Earth’s axis and is a visual cue of the Sun’s movement through the calendar year. To winemakers Steven
Thompson and Kris Fade, the analemma is a symbol that reflects their focus on place. After all, every place on Earth has its own unique analemma – a
kind of place-based fingerprint. After years working as a cycling guide, Steven Thompson decided to switch to wine full-time in 2000 after graduating
from the Enology and Viticulture program at Walla Walla Community College. It was in Walla Walla that Steven met Kris Fade, his wife and business
partner, and the two embarked on a one-year overseas adventure, making wine as far away as New Zealand. They would eventually return home to
Oregon to start Analemma in 2010 when they received an opportunity to lease one of the oldest vineyards in the Pacific Northwest, Atavus Vineyard,
high up in the Columbia Gorge. The years to follow led them to the Mosier Hills, and in 2012, they began planting their own estate vineyard right outside
of their winery where they are experimenting with everything from Godello to Mencía to Trousseau (in addition to their cherry orchards). All of the
vineyards are farmed organically and they have begun incorporating biodynamic treatments of nettle, seaweed, and ground silica to boost the plants’
immune system. In the cellar, they work methodically to minimize their fingerprints on the wines, working only with native yeasts and keeping heavy oak
and filtering to a minimum. Through deliberate handling, they strive to capture the essence of each of the unique vineyards they work with, creating a
window into the site’s soil, microclimate, and culture.
Holden
Sterling Whitted and Michael Garofola continue to push the boundaries of Oregon wine working out of the Medici cellar in the hills north of Newberg.
They work primarily with Northern Italian varieties like Vermentino, Dolcetto, Nebbiolo, and a Friuli-style Sauvignon Blanc while also producing
detailed, elegant renditions of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Sterling previously worked at Owen Roe, Cameron, and Teutonic Wine Company while
studying advanced enology at Oregon State University. He started the Holden in 2011 and for several years made micro bottlings in a range of styles.
Michael, one of Portland’s most esteemed sommeliers, joined the business a few years later. The current line up maintains an adventurous spirit but
with a new level of sophistication. All fermentations are with native yeast, and SO2 use is kept to a minimum leading to some of the freshest, most
compelling wines coming out of the state today.
Omero Cellars
Established in 2009, Omero is a small (10ha) family owned vineyard and winery located in the heart of the Ribbon Ridge AVA in the northern
Willamette Valley. The estate is farmed organically, with a focus on maintaining the natural biodiversity of the land through minimal intervention, dry
farming, native cover crops, and the integration of livestock, most notably the 21 sheep that roam the property. In 2014, Omero brought on Chad
Stock of Minimus to take over all winemaking duties and increase their focus on making distinctive, authentic, natural wines. Chad has incorporated
some biodynamic principles, native yeast fermentations, and more transparent, minimalist winemaking to create a range of acid driven, food friendly
wines that truly reflect the terroir of this unique place.
Mexico
Baja California
Bichi
Mexico has a centuries-long history of winemaking that has mostly gone under the radar. Spanish conquistadores planted vines in the early 1500’s
(before both Chile and Argentina) and Baja California represents about 90% of the vines in the entire country due to the ideal climate and geography.
The soils are mainly sandy loam over granite, and some of the most distinctive vineyards are planted as high as 2500ft in elevation. The nearby
Pacific Ocean brings a lovely spine of salinity into the wines and helps moderate temperatures. Brothers Noel and Jair Téllez, with the help of Chilean
(by way of Burgundy) winemaker Louis-Antoine Luyt, are producing amazingly fresh and energetic wines from very old, recently recovered vineyards
of Misión (aka Listán Prieto), Rosa del Peru (aka Moscatel Negro), Tempranillo, and Cariñena, among other unknown varieties. Bichi means "naked"
in some parts of northern Mexico, and for Téllez and Luyt, it thus seemed like an appropriate name to give their new natural wine project. Bichi farms
10ha of their own vineyards biodynamically and collaborates with a growing family of organic farmers working vineyard land in Tecate and around
Valle de Guadalupe. In the winery, grapes are destemmed by hand and gently trodden by foot, and fermentations are carried out by wild yeast in
locally-made concrete amphorae. Inside the bottles are incredibly vibrant and transparent wines that evoke the nearby Pacific Ocean, the granite
soils, and rugged mountain vineyards of their region. Through the persistent work of the family and their farmers and collaborators, lively Baja wine is
officially on the map.
Argentina
Mendoza
Campo
We are proud to introduce Campo. Old-vine, organically-farmed fruit, made with low intervention: wild yeast fermentation, no acid adjustments, no new
oak... Pure, straight-forward Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon from Argentina that don’t taste like blueberry pie!
Cider
France – Normandy
Cyril Zangs
After a career as a book sales rep in Paris, Cyril Zangs decided to go back to his native Normandy with his family and started making cider. All of his
ciders come from organically grown apples, about 70 different varieties in total, some of which have yet to be identified, and are picked from the tree
by hand, not from the floor where they already started the process of rotting. Zangs tells us the idea is to have apples that are sweet, bittersweet, and
tartly acidic to balance everything out, instead of some growers who have switched to a mono-cépage where single flavors (usually sweet) can
dominate. After harvest, Cyril puts his apples through greniers, or aging in an attic, for one or two months depending on the year, an old practice that
gives the resulting cider much more depth of both color and flavor. After the greniers aging, the apples are crushed, pressed off, and transferred to
stainless steel tanks where fermentation starts naturally. The cider is then bottled while still fermenting and aged in pupitres for up to a year, with no
filtering and no sulfur added. For those of you accustomed to sweet cider, this is going to be a new experience. This is a dry, age worthy (hence, the
vintage dating), fuller bodied cider.
Spain – Asturias
Ramos del Valle
Ramos del Valle from Sidra Fran is an all-natural hard cider made with traditional methods using apples from the Asturias region of northern Spain.
Founded in 1918, Roberto Ramos is the third generation of his family to make cider. Sidra Fran is currently owned and operated by Roberto and his
four siblings. Sidra Fran uses only native apples from the region. The apples are hand harvested in September from the family's own orchards on
mountain slopes. There are over 800 native apple varietals in Asturias and 22 varieties authorized in the region. Sidra Fran is in the process of
recovering additional ancient apple varietals. Fermentation occurs naturally and spontaneously with native yeasts. The cider then rests in large
chestnut wooden vats in contact with lees for over five months. No sugar or carbonation is added.
France – Southwest
Domaine Séailles
Domaine Séailles is one of the pioneers of organic viticulture in the Côtes de Gascogne region of Southwest France. A family-owned estate since
1961, Séailles is now run by Jean Labérenne, who lead the domaine to Ecocert organic certification in 1997, swearing off all chemical fertilizers,
herbicides, insecticides, and synthetic chemical products. Located in the town of Ténarèze, which is unique in the region for its limestone soils, Jean
farms a total of 25ha of hillside vineyards with help the of Julien Lanclet and Laurent Lefèvre, even saving 2ha of vines to make the traditional spirit
of the region, Armagnac. The distillation is carried out at the domaine using an old, direct wood flame heated still, and the resulting spirits are aged
in 400L barrels for a minimum of 20 years.
Italy – Veneto
Le Vigne di Alice
Sisters-in-law Cinzia Canzian and Pier Francesca Bonicelli started Alice in 2004 to fulfill their dream of bottling artisanal Prosecco thatʼs all their
own: estate fruit, pre-Dolomite, grower Prosecco. We call it Prosecco for non-Prosecco lovers (a category that includes us). In addition to their
exceptional sparkling wines, the women also continue on the tradition of producing a small amount of Amaro. Previously, this Amaro was reserved
just for friends and family that came to visit at Cinzia's grandmother's osteria in Vittorio Veneto (she is the 'Alice' in 'Le Vigne di Alice'). Luckily, we
managed to convince them to sell us whatever extra they could so we have a small amount to share with you today. Cinzia’s aunt’s nickname was
'Nina' and she was the one who composed the amaro recipe with over 30 different medicinal (and mountain) herbs. The bitter cut comes from
Gentiana lutea, known in English as bitter root. The herb grows in grassy alpine and sub-Alpine pastures, usually on calcareous soil. You may
recognize its bitterness, as it is the main ingredient in Angostura bitters. Mint, orange rind, sage, fennel fronds, and more give aromatic nuance.
Italy – Piemonte
Monterosa
Monterosa is a new, artisanal Vermouth project in Alto Piemonte from Daniele Garella, brother of Cristiano Garella of Colombera & Garella fame.
Daniele hand-picks herbs in Alto Piemonte around Mount Rosa, including “muttolina”, a local biotype of genepy. Cold extractions of the herbs help
preserve their delicate volatile oils. The base wines for both Vermouths are grown and made locally: Erbaluce for the white, and mostly Nebbiolo for
the red. These are an exciting, new chapter in the century-and-a-half-old tradition of Piemontese Vermouths.
Scarpa
We sometimes assume that the great, historic producers in Italy are all well-known in the U.S. But ask the old timers: "I remember Scarpa…"
Antica Casa Vinicola Scarpa has been producing traditional, aristocratic wines in the Monferrato hills of southeast Piemonte for 150 years. They
have vineyards, farmed organically, in the Langhe as well as the Monferrato. Mario Pesce, admired by both Giacosa and Gaja, made Scarpa’s
reputation in the late 20th century, and today Maria Pier Zola and her family carry on his tradition of aging all the wines for years, and sometimes
decades before release. Traditional sometimes means 'rustic', but that's not the case here; Scarpa produces elegant wines with arrow-like acidity
and well-aged tannins. Bottle evolution and vintage characteristics emerge instead of pointillist fruit. Be on the lookout for releases from the
family's 45,000+ bottle library.
Spain – Valencia
Vidte
Vidte Vermouths come from the La Marina Alta sub-zone of Alicante, a region with many years of history in both wine and vermouth production. The
climate is Mediterranean giving these vermouths distinctive herbal characteristics. The soils of La Marina Alta are very limy, with low levels of clay
and very little organic material, giving very high-quality base wines. Vidte Vermouths are made in collaboration with winemaker Pedro Sarrión, an
oenologist with extensive knowledge in the production of wines from Alicante and Castilla-La Mancha. The base wines are made from the traditional
varieties Muscatel and Merseguera and are then macerated for several months with a combination of local Mediterranean aromatic herbs.
Dessert
Name Vintage Grapes Size Pack Importer SLO Code
France
Domaine du Trapadis Rasteau Vin Doux Naturel Grenat 2015 Grenache/Carignan 500mL 6* MFW 553343
Domaine de Saint Pierre Vin de Liqueur "Les Larmes du Paradis" NV Chardonnay/Trousseau 750mL 6* MFW 570474
Mélaric Coteaux de Saumur "Funambule" 2013 Chenin Blanc 500mL 6* MFW 603343
Julien Thurel "Cydromel" 2014 Apples/Honey 750mL 6* MFW 562075
Guirardel Jurançon "Marrote" 2012 Petit Manseng 750mL 12* MFW 581526
Mélaric "Liquoreux de la Cerisaie" VdF Blanc 2011 Chenin Blanc 500mL 6* MFW 603342
Austria
Tinhof Burgenland Aperitiv NV Weißburgunder/Neuburger 500mL 8 CH 542553
Italy
Sorrelle Palazzi Bianco Pisano di San Torpè Vin Santo Riserva 2011 Trebbiano/Malvasia/++ 375mL 6 PV 602524
Spain
Alfredo Maestro "La Cosa – The Thing" VdlT Castilla y León 2014 Moscatel de Alejandría 375mL 6 JPS 574442
Gutiérrez de la Vega "Casta Diva Cosecha Miel" VdM 2013 Moscatel de Alejandría 500mL 12* JPS 590583
Gutiérrez de la Vega "Recóndita Armonía" VdM Tinto 2013 Monastrell 500mL 12* JPS 593665
United States
East Hollow Cider "A Bee and A Tree" Imperial Cyser NV Wild Apples/Honey 375mL 12* MFW 592290
Old Westminster Winery Maryland "Solera Batch No. 1" NV Cabernet Franc/Petit Verdot 500mL 12* MFW 602464
Eden Ice Cider "Heirloom Blend" NV ('13) Empire/McIntosh/++ 375mL 6* MFW 569675
Eden Ice Cider "Windfall Orchard" NV Heirloom Blend 375mL 6* MFW 569676
Eden Ice Cider "Northern Spy Barrel-Aged" NV ('13) Northern Spy 375mL 6* MFW 569677
Big Bottles
Name Vintage Grapes Size Pack Importer SLO Code
Sparkling/Pét-Nat
France
Bernard Vallette "Née Bulleuse" VMQ Rosé NV Gamay 1.5L 6 MFW 562442
Julien Thurel Cidre "Champêtre" 2016 Apples 1.5L 1 MFW 590060
Julien Thurel Cidre "Nectar" 2016 Apple 1.5L 1 MFW 590060
White Wine
France
Mélaric Saumur Blanc "Billes de Roche" 2014 Chenin Blanc 1.5L 6* MFW 603344
Domaine des Rouges-Queues Bourgogne Aligoté "L'Aligator" 2016 Aligoté 1.5L 3 MFW 597999
Domaine de Saint Pierre Arbois "Savagnin Autrement" 2016 Savagnin 1.5L 6* MFW 600431
Germany
Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Spätlese Feinherb (15) 2017 Riesling 1.5L 6 MFW 584439
Italy
Bella Vita Pinot Grigio IGP Veneto 2018 Pinot Grigio 1.5L 6 MFW 538943
Spain
Luis Rodriguez Ribeiro Blanco "Viña de Martin Os Pasás" 2016 Treixadura/Albariño/++ 1.5L 4 JPS 605721
Envínate "Benje" VdM Blanco 2017 Listán Blanco 1.5L 3 JPS 589408
Envínate "Táganan" VdM Blanco 2017 Albillo/Marmajuelo/Gual/++ 1.5L 3 JPS 589411
Luis Rodriguez Ribeiro Blanco "Viña de Martin Escolma" 2013 Treixadura/Albariño/++ 1.5L 4 JPS 605716
United States
Bow & Arrow Eola-Amity Hills Sauvignon Blanc "Le Chénaie Vnyd" 2016 Sauvignon Blanc 1.5L 6* MFW 601238
Rosé Wine
France
Domaine du Chapitre Côtes du Rhône Rosé 2017 Grenache/Clairette Rose/++ 1.5L 12 MFW 601365
Bernard Vallette "La Rose Gorge" VdF Rosé 2017 Gamay 1.5L 6 MFW 582812
Germany
Weingut Beurer Württemberg Rosé Trocken 2018 Trollinger/Portugieser/++ 1.5L 6 VB 607450
Stein Mosel Rosé Trocken 2018 Pinot Noir/Cab Sauv/Merlot 1.5L 6 VB 607442
United States
Division-Villages Columbia Valley Rosé of Gamay Noir "L'Avoiron" 2018 Gamay Noir 1.5L 6 MFW 596035
Italy
Bella Vita Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2017 Montepulciano 1.5L 6 MFW 538945
I Custodi Etna Rosso "Aetneus" 2010 N. Mascalese/N. Capuccio/+ 1.5L 6* PV 600750
Spain
Goyo García Ribera del Duero "Joven de Viñas Viejas" 2017 Tinto Fino 1.5L 6 JPS 608143
Envínate "Albahra" VdM Tinto 2017 Garnacha Tintorera/Moravia 1.5L 3 JPS 596099
Daterra Viticultores "Portela do Vento" VdM Tinto 2017 Mencía/Garnacha Tintorera 1.5L 4* JPS 596122
Luis Rodriguez Ribeiro Tinto "A Torna Dos Pasás" 2015 Brancellao/Caiño Longo/++ 1.5L 4 JPS 605719
Envínate "Benje" VdM Tinto 2017 Listán Prieto/Tintilla 1.5L 3 JPS 589410
United States
Bow & Arrow Willamette Valley "Air Guitar" 2016 Cab Franc/Cab Sauvignon 1.5L 6* MFW 601236
Order Details
Order deadline:
− Philadelphia: Tuesday, 3:00 PM
− Pittsburgh: Monday, 3:00 PM
Order approval deadline in LOOP:
− Tuesday, 3:00 PM
Delivery schedule:
− Philadelphia and Suburbs: Wednesday
− Pittsburgh: Friday
Full cases sales only, except wines with a pack size marked with *
For items less than $25/btl, a case can be split, as long as the
remainder of the case is filled (i.e. 6+6, or 4+4+4, etc.).