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The following describes how to assemble your DIY Desktop CNC Machine Chassis:
Prep
You will need a perfectly flat surface to work
on, a 7/16” ratchet/wrench/socket and a
7/16” ring wrench (spanner). An 11mm
socket and wrench will work just as well.
1 - Frame
Lay out your chassis aluminum parts. Note
that the longest members are in two
matching pairs – each pair has a left and a
right piece (see step 2). For the shorter end-
members, the front member is the one with
the two small additional motor mounting
holes in between the row of three larger
holes (shown as the bottom tube in the
picture). The long flat bar is the diagonal
cross brace that will go on the bottom.
2
The top rails are the ones where the end
holes do not go all the way through the tube
(as indicated by the blue arrow). The bottom
rails have the end holes all the way through
in addition to a single hole in the side 4.5”
from the nearest end (as indicated by the red
arrow). That’s the registration hole for the
gantry uprights. That hole faces out on each
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©MyDIYCNC: Chassis Assembly Instructions
side as shown in the picture. The rear of your
CNC machine is the end nearest this hole.
3
You will be building the frame upside down.
Lay the two top side rails on a flat surface so
that their end holes face up. Place both short
end rails on the ends of the top side rails (as
shown) so that the end holes for side and
end rails all line up. The front rail has the
additional two small holes (see blue arrow).
The back rail has the line of three holes in
one side of the tube only, and these holes
face in (see picture).
On earlier kits, these three holes are not
centered in the bar (they are slightly closer to
one edge of the bar then the other). They
must be oriented on both ends such that the
holes are closest to your bench.
4
Place the remaining two bottom side rails as
shown in the picture such that all vertical
corner holes (blue arrow) are aligned
through all three stacked pieces. Make sure
that the side gantry uprights registration hole
is facing outward as shown. Remember, you
are building this upside down, so the long rail
with the gantry upright registration hole sits
on top of this assembly. Once bolted
together, you will flip the assembly over and
that hole will be on the bottom rail.
5
On one corner (doesn’t matter which you
start with) feed the corner bolt through the
black spacer into the frame and into the
nylon-insert hex locknut as shown in the
picture. The locknut goes inside the lower
tube. This is a tricky process best done by
hand/fingers to get it started. Once the
thread is started on the nut, use a 7/16” or
11mm ring wrench to hold the nut while you
tighten down the bolt. Do not tighten this
bolt down all the way yet. Repeat this on the
diagonally- opposite corner.
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6
Place the frame cross brace across the two
remaining corners, and using the same
techniques as in step 5, bolt the cross brace
through both diagonally-opposite corners.
Note that there is no spacer used on the
cross brace corners. Double check the
orientation of your frame members and snug
down the bolts on all four corners.
7
Flip the assembled chassis over. Check that
it is rigid and without movement in the
corners/members. Correct as necessary by
tightening the loose bolts.
8 – X Table
The four rubber grommets provided will be
inserted into the outer holes in the 3-hole
groups on the inside face of the front and
back cross members. These grommets will
hold the X axis rods in place. Check the holes
to make sure they are clean and that no
foreign material will obstruct the grommets.
Place the grommets in their respective holes.
Make sure that the lips of the grommet are
not pinched in the hole – the edges of the
hole must sit inside the groove in the
grommet.
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9
You will use a very small amount of soapy
water to prevent the grommets from
gripping the rods and pinching up in the
holes. Put a little soapy water on one end of
each X axis rod, and slide those ends of the
rods through the grommets in the front cross
member as shown in the picture.
10
Your kit comes with two pairs of bearing
support sub-frames with three large holes in
one face. The pair used for the X axis is the
pair with the smaller two mounting holes as
indicated by the blue arrow.
11
Using your fingers, press the Igus bearings
into the outer holes in the sub-frames, as
shown in the picture. The larger flange on
the bearing should face outwards as seen in
the picture.
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©MyDIYCNC: Chassis Assembly Instructions
12
Slide the bearing support sub-frames over
the rods as shown in the picture. The tops of
the sub-frames should be pointing towards
one another.
13
As you did in step 9, use a small amount of
soapy water to ease the rods into the
remaining two grommets in the back cross
member.
14
Lay the table HDPE on your flat surface.
Using the carpenter’s square make a
perpendicular pencil line 3.5 inches in from
either end of the table.
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15
Place the table into the frame and lay it on
the X bearing support sub-frames as shown.
Use the Y axis bearing support sub frames as
spacers to ensure that there is an even 1/8”
gap along each long side of the table.
16
Flip the entire frame and table over so that
the cross brace is facing upwards. Place the
assembly on a book or piece of wood so that
the table is flat against the bearing support
sub-frames as shown. Position the bearing
support sub frames on the lines. Both sub-
frames should be inside the lines.
17
Double-check that the bearing support sub-
frames are lined up with your perpendicular
pencil lines. Using a 1/8” drill bit, drill a pilot
hole through only one of each of the sub-
frame mounting holes and through the table.
You should have two holes in the table
aligned with the sub-frame holes.
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18
Flip the entire assembly over again, and
counter-sink the two holes you just made.
19
Flip the entire assembly upside down again.
The screws you just inserted will protrude
slightly past the bearing support sub-frame.
20
Once you have the sub-frames adjusted to
provide for easy movement, drill the
remaining holes two holes. As described in
step 18, countersink the holes and attach the
last two screws.
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©MyDIYCNC: Chassis Assembly Instructions
21
Your table is now attached to your X axis and
should look like the pictures shown.
22
You will now attach the X axis drivetrain and
anti-backlash assembly. This process has its
own pictorial step-by-step set of instructions.
23
Your kit comes with two nylon bushings.
They protect the ends of the X and Y axis
threaded rod from snagging on the frame.
The longer bushing inserts into the middle
hole of the back cross member as shown in
the picture.
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24
After following and completing the separate
Anti-backlash Assembly instructions, you are
done with the base.
25 Gantry
Uprights
Your kit includes two gantry support
uprights. The red side faces into the CNC
machine, with the black side facing out.
When attached, the red surface will contact
the aluminum frame rails. The large notch
faces the front of your machine, while the
sloping edge faces rearward.
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26
Align the bottom rear hole in the gantry
upright with the single registration hole in
the bottom side rail.
27 Y/Z Carriage
The Y Carriage back plate is the piece of
white HDPE with the angled cut on one
corner. You will be attaching the Y axis
bearing support sub-frames to the Y carriage
backplate.
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28
Drill 1/8” pilot holes through the sub-frame
mounting holes and screw the first sub frame
in position using the pan head 1/2” #6 screws
provided.
29
To attach the second sub –frame you will use
the larger of the two Z axis rod mounting
blocks (indicated with the red arrow) as a
spacer to locate the second sub-frame
position.
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30
Each of the Z rod mounting blocks mount to
the opposite side of the Y carriage backplate.
They match the width of the Y backplate
edges.
31
Flip the assembly over and insert the Z rods
into the pockets in the mounting block, as
shown. They will be a press-fit. With a little
effort and twisting, push them in until the
reach the bottom of the pockets.
32
The Z carriage consists of three pieces of
HDPE as shown in the picture. The two
smaller pieces hold the spindle in place. The
piece with the large hole holds the nose of
the spindle, while the other piece with the
semi-circular notch cradles the upper body of
the spindle.
33
Mark the center of the edge of the backplate
and the center of the matching edge of the
spindle nose mount. Using a right-angle
corner, such as the edge of a table, align
these marks as show to center the spindle
nose mount on the Z backplate, and drill
5/64” pilot holes through the holes provided
in the Z backplate and into the spindle nose
mount.
34
Using your work space/bench as a flat
surface, align one of the Z bearing support
sub-frames flush with the top of the Z
carriage backplate.
35
Use the Z rods lower mounting block as a
guide and locate the second Z bearings
support sub-frame 1” down from the edge of
the upper sub-frame.
36
Slide the Z carriage assembly over the Z rods
and insert the Z rods lower mounting block
over the ends of the Z rods. The rods are a
tight press fit in the mounting holes. The rod
ends should be flush in the holes when it is
aligned with the bottom edge of the Y
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©MyDIYCNC: Chassis Assembly Instructions
carriage backplate, as indicated by the blue
arrow.
37 Gantry
Assembly
TIP: Before installing the Y rods/carriage, you
may wish to install the Z motor mount (step
43) while the Y carriage is still on the bench
and you have access and clearance to all
sides. It can be installed in-situ, but accessing
screws is more challenging.
38
Insert the remaining nylon busing in the hole
centered between the rod in the right-hand
gantry support upright.
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39
Position the HDPE gantry backbrace between
the pair of vertical holes in the gantry
support uprights. Using your carpenter’s
square, ensure that the gantry backbrace is
vertical and drill 1/8” pilot holes through the
upright holes into the backbrace.
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40 Squaring
Using your carpenter’s square, check for
squareness between the Z axis and the X
table. Check along the length of the Y axis
rods and against the Z carriage backplate.
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41
Using a transfer punch, mark the center of
the gantry support upright mounting holes in
the frame side rails. A transfer punch will
ensure that your drilled hole in the frame will
align with the center of the upright’s
mounting hole.
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42
Follow the instructions in the separate Anti-
backlash Assembly instructions to complete
the Y axis.
43
Place the Z motor mounting plate over the
top corner of the Y carriage as shown in the
picture. Drill 1/8” pilot holes in the four
mounting holes in the top, and one in the
side of the Z motor mounting plate.
44
The last piece of aluminum is the small angle
that supports the Z anti-backlash assembly.
45
Following the instructions in the separate
step-by-step anti-backlash assembly
instructions, assemble the last remaining
anti-backlash assembly before mounting it in
position.
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46 Spindle
You can now attach your spindle.
47 Ta-daaa
Congratulations - your MyDIYCNC DIY
Desktop CNC Machine should now be
assembled.
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48
Troubleshooting
If your axis binds up at points along it’s
travel but moves freely at other points, then
your axis rods are most likely out of
alignment. Loosen the support mounts fro
that axis and follow the alignment processes
to align the rods.
49
If your axis is stiff along it’s entire travel, or
becomes stiff after some use, the bearings
may need lubrication. The Igus bearings used
on the MyDIYCNC Desktop CNC Machine are
designed to be run dry or lubricated. If they
become contaminated from work
dust/debris, a little lubrication can restore
free movement.
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50
If your axis seems loose or there is play in
one or more bearings.
For technical support and additional resources, please login to your account at www.MyDIYCNC.com
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