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Chassis Assembly

The following describes how to assemble your DIY Desktop CNC Machine Chassis:

Prep
You will need a perfectly flat surface to work
on, a 7/16” ratchet/wrench/socket and a
7/16” ring wrench (spanner). An 11mm
socket and wrench will work just as well.

You will need a sharp pencil, a carpenter’s or


machinist’s square, a ruler or tape measure,
a crosshead screwdriver, an electric drill, a
small pliers, 1/8” and 5/64” drill bits and
some liquid soap and water. Optional tolls
include a 12”+ ratchet bar clamp and a
transfer punch set.

Optionally, you may want to protect your


parts from scratches or scuffing by laying a
piece of paper or foam on your work surface.

1 - Frame
Lay out your chassis aluminum parts. Note
that the longest members are in two
matching pairs – each pair has a left and a
right piece (see step 2). For the shorter end-
members, the front member is the one with
the two small additional motor mounting
holes in between the row of three larger
holes (shown as the bottom tube in the
picture). The long flat bar is the diagonal
cross brace that will go on the bottom.

2
The top rails are the ones where the end
holes do not go all the way through the tube
(as indicated by the blue arrow). The bottom
rails have the end holes all the way through
in addition to a single hole in the side 4.5”
from the nearest end (as indicated by the red
arrow). That’s the registration hole for the
gantry uprights. That hole faces out on each
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©MyDIYCNC: Chassis Assembly Instructions
side as shown in the picture. The rear of your
CNC machine is the end nearest this hole.

3
You will be building the frame upside down.
Lay the two top side rails on a flat surface so
that their end holes face up. Place both short
end rails on the ends of the top side rails (as
shown) so that the end holes for side and
end rails all line up. The front rail has the
additional two small holes (see blue arrow).
The back rail has the line of three holes in
one side of the tube only, and these holes
face in (see picture).
On earlier kits, these three holes are not
centered in the bar (they are slightly closer to
one edge of the bar then the other). They
must be oriented on both ends such that the
holes are closest to your bench.

4
Place the remaining two bottom side rails as
shown in the picture such that all vertical
corner holes (blue arrow) are aligned
through all three stacked pieces. Make sure
that the side gantry uprights registration hole
is facing outward as shown. Remember, you
are building this upside down, so the long rail
with the gantry upright registration hole sits
on top of this assembly. Once bolted
together, you will flip the assembly over and
that hole will be on the bottom rail.

5
On one corner (doesn’t matter which you
start with) feed the corner bolt through the
black spacer into the frame and into the
nylon-insert hex locknut as shown in the
picture. The locknut goes inside the lower
tube. This is a tricky process best done by
hand/fingers to get it started. Once the
thread is started on the nut, use a 7/16” or
11mm ring wrench to hold the nut while you
tighten down the bolt. Do not tighten this
bolt down all the way yet. Repeat this on the
diagonally- opposite corner.

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©MyDIYCNC: Chassis Assembly Instructions
6
Place the frame cross brace across the two
remaining corners, and using the same
techniques as in step 5, bolt the cross brace
through both diagonally-opposite corners.
Note that there is no spacer used on the
cross brace corners. Double check the
orientation of your frame members and snug
down the bolts on all four corners.

7
Flip the assembled chassis over. Check that
it is rigid and without movement in the
corners/members. Correct as necessary by
tightening the loose bolts.

Your assembly should now look as shown.

8 – X Table
The four rubber grommets provided will be
inserted into the outer holes in the 3-hole
groups on the inside face of the front and
back cross members. These grommets will
hold the X axis rods in place. Check the holes
to make sure they are clean and that no
foreign material will obstruct the grommets.
Place the grommets in their respective holes.
Make sure that the lips of the grommet are
not pinched in the hole – the edges of the
hole must sit inside the groove in the
grommet.

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©MyDIYCNC: Chassis Assembly Instructions
9
You will use a very small amount of soapy
water to prevent the grommets from
gripping the rods and pinching up in the
holes. Put a little soapy water on one end of
each X axis rod, and slide those ends of the
rods through the grommets in the front cross
member as shown in the picture.

The rods will protrude out the front of the


chassis frame. This will allow sufficient
clearance to lower the rods into the frame,
attach the bearing support sub-frames and
then insert the rods into the back cross
member.

10
Your kit comes with two pairs of bearing
support sub-frames with three large holes in
one face. The pair used for the X axis is the
pair with the smaller two mounting holes as
indicated by the blue arrow.

The pair of sub-frames with the larger


mounting holes will be used later to mount
the Y carriage.

11
Using your fingers, press the Igus bearings
into the outer holes in the sub-frames, as
shown in the picture. The larger flange on
the bearing should face outwards as seen in
the picture.

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12
Slide the bearing support sub-frames over
the rods as shown in the picture. The tops of
the sub-frames should be pointing towards
one another.

13
As you did in step 9, use a small amount of
soapy water to ease the rods into the
remaining two grommets in the back cross
member.

Your chassis frame should now look like the


one in the picture.

14
Lay the table HDPE on your flat surface.
Using the carpenter’s square make a
perpendicular pencil line 3.5 inches in from
either end of the table.

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15
Place the table into the frame and lay it on
the X bearing support sub-frames as shown.
Use the Y axis bearing support sub frames as
spacers to ensure that there is an even 1/8”
gap along each long side of the table.

16
Flip the entire frame and table over so that
the cross brace is facing upwards. Place the
assembly on a book or piece of wood so that
the table is flat against the bearing support
sub-frames as shown. Position the bearing
support sub frames on the lines. Both sub-
frames should be inside the lines.

17
Double-check that the bearing support sub-
frames are lined up with your perpendicular
pencil lines. Using a 1/8” drill bit, drill a pilot
hole through only one of each of the sub-
frame mounting holes and through the table.
You should have two holes in the table
aligned with the sub-frame holes.

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©MyDIYCNC: Chassis Assembly Instructions
18
Flip the entire assembly over again, and
counter-sink the two holes you just made.

Using the #6 flat-head ½” screws provided,


attach the sub-frames to the table through
the one hole in each sub-frame.

19
Flip the entire assembly upside down again.
The screws you just inserted will protrude
slightly past the bearing support sub-frame.

Using your carpenter’s square, double-check


again for squareness of the bearing support
sub-frames. Adjust the sub-frames as
necessary.

Your table should be able to slide easily and


freely up and down the rods.

20
Once you have the sub-frames adjusted to
provide for easy movement, drill the
remaining holes two holes. As described in
step 18, countersink the holes and attach the
last two screws.

Double-check your table for free and easy


movement.

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21
Your table is now attached to your X axis and
should look like the pictures shown.

Make sure that your screw heads are


countersunk below the surface level of the
table and that there are no ridges of plastic
around the hole that are higher than the
surface of the table.

22
You will now attach the X axis drivetrain and
anti-backlash assembly. This process has its
own pictorial step-by-step set of instructions.

If you do not have those instructions already,


they are available as a download through
your MyDIYCNC account.

23
Your kit comes with two nylon bushings.
They protect the ends of the X and Y axis
threaded rod from snagging on the frame.
The longer bushing inserts into the middle
hole of the back cross member as shown in
the picture.

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24
After following and completing the separate
Anti-backlash Assembly instructions, you are
done with the base.

25 Gantry
Uprights
Your kit includes two gantry support
uprights. The red side faces into the CNC
machine, with the black side facing out.
When attached, the red surface will contact
the aluminum frame rails. The large notch
faces the front of your machine, while the
sloping edge faces rearward.

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26
Align the bottom rear hole in the gantry
upright with the single registration hole in
the bottom side rail.

Using the ¾” #8 pan head screws provided,


attach the gantry uprights to the frame
through the bottom rear hole into the single
registration hole in the bottom side rail.
Screw it down snug, but not tight. You want
it moveable around that screw to allow you
to adjust the gantry uprights later into their
final position before attaching the remaining
screws.

For now you will only attach that one screw


on each gantry upright.

27 Y/Z Carriage
The Y Carriage back plate is the piece of
white HDPE with the angled cut on one
corner. You will be attaching the Y axis
bearing support sub-frames to the Y carriage
backplate.

Use either of the Z axis rod mounting blocks


(the ones with the 3/8” holes/pockets for the
Z rods) as a spacer.

Position one of the sub-frames flush with the


longest edge of the Y carriage backplate. You
can use the other sub-frame to keep the one
you’re mounting flush with the edge.

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28
Drill 1/8” pilot holes through the sub-frame
mounting holes and screw the first sub frame
in position using the pan head 1/2” #6 screws
provided.

29
To attach the second sub –frame you will use
the larger of the two Z axis rod mounting
blocks (indicated with the red arrow) as a
spacer to locate the second sub-frame
position.

Insert the Igus bearings into the outer holes


in the bearing support sub-frames.

Use the gantry backbrace to support and


space the bottom of the sub-frames (as
shown in the picture), and insert the two
small Z axis rods through the bearings in each
sub-frame. Space the sub-frames with the
upper Z rod mounting blocks as shown.

With a 1/8” bit drill pilot holes through the


mounting holes of the remaining sub-frame.
Attach the sub-frame to the Y carriage
backplate with the pan head 1/2” #6 screws
provided.

Your Y carriage now should look like the one


shown.

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30
Each of the Z rod mounting blocks mount to
the opposite side of the Y carriage backplate.
They match the width of the Y backplate
edges.

The larger block mounts with the rod


mounting pockets facing inwards. The pocket
nearest the block edge is located at the
longer edge of Y carriage backplate as
indicated by the blue arrow.

Drill three 1/8” pilot holes through the top


edge of the Y carriage backplate into the
edge of the upper Z rod mounting block.
Space the holes approximately 3/16” in from
the top and 1 1/8” apart from the longer
edge.

Using the ¾” pan head #6 screws attach the


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©MyDIYCNC: Chassis Assembly Instructions
upper Z rod mounting plate to the Y carriage
backplate.

31
Flip the assembly over and insert the Z rods
into the pockets in the mounting block, as
shown. They will be a press-fit. With a little
effort and twisting, push them in until the
reach the bottom of the pockets.

32
The Z carriage consists of three pieces of
HDPE as shown in the picture. The two
smaller pieces hold the spindle in place. The
piece with the large hole holds the nose of
the spindle, while the other piece with the
semi-circular notch cradles the upper body of
the spindle.

33
Mark the center of the edge of the backplate
and the center of the matching edge of the
spindle nose mount. Using a right-angle
corner, such as the edge of a table, align
these marks as show to center the spindle
nose mount on the Z backplate, and drill
5/64” pilot holes through the holes provided
in the Z backplate and into the spindle nose
mount.

Attach the spindle nose mount with the1/2”


pan head #6 screws.

Attach the upper spindle cradle by drilling


5/64” pilot holes into the cradle through the
upper pair of holes in the Z backplate. Attach
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©MyDIYCNC: Chassis Assembly Instructions
the cradle mount using the provided 1/2”
pan head #6 screws.

Your Z carriage should now look like the one


pictured.

34
Using your work space/bench as a flat
surface, align one of the Z bearing support
sub-frames flush with the top of the Z
carriage backplate.

Drill 5/64” pilot holes through the mounting


holes of the sub-frame and attach the sub-
frame to the Z backplate with the 3/8” pan
head #4 screws provided.

35
Use the Z rods lower mounting block as a
guide and locate the second Z bearings
support sub-frame 1” down from the edge of
the upper sub-frame.

Drill 5/64” pilot holes through the mounting


holes of the lower sub-frame and attach the
sub-frame to the Z backplate with the 3/8”
pan head #4 screws provided.

36
Slide the Z carriage assembly over the Z rods
and insert the Z rods lower mounting block
over the ends of the Z rods. The rods are a
tight press fit in the mounting holes. The rod
ends should be flush in the holes when it is
aligned with the bottom edge of the Y
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©MyDIYCNC: Chassis Assembly Instructions
carriage backplate, as indicated by the blue
arrow.

Ensure that the Z carriage can move freely


and easily up and down the Z rods. Move the
lower Z rod mounting block until you find the
location that provides free travel on the Z
axis. Hold that position while drilling pilot
holes into the lower rod mounting block.

Drill two 1/8” pilot holes evenly spaced


through the Z backplate into the lower Z rod
mounting block. With your electric
screwdriver, attach the lower Z rod mounting
block with the 1/2” pan head #6 screws
provided.

Your final Y/Z axis assembly should look like


the one shown in the picture.

37 Gantry
Assembly
TIP: Before installing the Y rods/carriage, you
may wish to install the Z motor mount (step
43) while the Y carriage is still on the bench
and you have access and clearance to all
sides. It can be installed in-situ, but accessing
screws is more challenging.

Slide the two Y axis rods through their


bearings in the Y/Z Carriage assembly.

Hold the complete assembly between the


two gantry support uprights, and insert the
rods first into the pockets of the right-hand
(when viewed from the rear) gantry support
upright, and then into the corresponding
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©MyDIYCNC: Chassis Assembly Instructions
holes in the left-hand upright. The rods will
be a tight fit in these pockets and holes. It
may be necessary to loosen the single screws
holding the uprights to the frame to allow
clearance to insert the rods.

Using a ratchet bar clamp, squeeze the


gantry support uprights together over the
ends of the rods until the rods are flush in
the left-hand gantry support uprights as
shown.

In the absence of a ratchet bar clamp, using


the gantry brace piece to protect the upright
surface and spread the load, lay the assembly
down on the right-hand gantry support
upright and tap the left-hand upright until
the rod ends are flush in the holes as shown.

38
Insert the remaining nylon busing in the hole
centered between the rod in the right-hand
gantry support upright.

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39
Position the HDPE gantry backbrace between
the pair of vertical holes in the gantry
support uprights. Using your carpenter’s
square, ensure that the gantry backbrace is
vertical and drill 1/8” pilot holes through the
upright holes into the backbrace.

Using the 3/4” pan head #6 screws provided,


attach the gantry backbrace between the
gantry support uprights as shown.

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©MyDIYCNC: Chassis Assembly Instructions
40 Squaring
Using your carpenter’s square, check for
squareness between the Z axis and the X
table. Check along the length of the Y axis
rods and against the Z carriage backplate.

Each of the gantry support uprights can pivot


on the single screw mounting them to the
frame. Adjust their position until you achieve
squareness between the Z axis backplate
across the entire Y axis travel. Ensure that
the Y axis travels easily and freely across the
length of the Y axis rods.

Once your Y axis rods are parallel and the Y


axis travels freely, and the Z axis backplate is
perpendicular to the X table, use your
ratchet bar clamp to lock in that position for
the gantry support uprights.

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41
Using a transfer punch, mark the center of
the gantry support upright mounting holes in
the frame side rails. A transfer punch will
ensure that your drilled hole in the frame will
align with the center of the upright’s
mounting hole.

Drill 9/64” holes in each of the remaining


three mounting hole locations in each
upright.

In the absence of a transfer punch, carefully


drill through the gantry support uprights into
the frame side rails. Take care to drill at right-
angles to the rails.

Using an electric screwdriver, secure the


gantry support uprights to the chassis frame
with the ¾” pan head #8 screws provided.

Your Y/Z axes should now be mounted at


right angles to your X table.

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42
Follow the instructions in the separate Anti-
backlash Assembly instructions to complete
the Y axis.

43
Place the Z motor mounting plate over the
top corner of the Y carriage as shown in the
picture. Drill 1/8” pilot holes in the four
mounting holes in the top, and one in the
side of the Z motor mounting plate.

Using the 3/8” pan head #4 screws provided,


attach the Z motor mounting plate to the Y
carriage.

Attach one of the stepper motors to the Z


motor mounting plate using the M3 machine
screws provided.

44
The last piece of aluminum is the small angle
that supports the Z anti-backlash assembly.

It is located directly under the upper spindle


support cradle and flush with the edge of the
Z backplate directly under the Z motor.
Locate the support bracket and drill two
5/64” pilot holes through the mounting holes
in the aluminum into the Z backplate. Attach
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©MyDIYCNC: Chassis Assembly Instructions
the bracket with the 3/8” pan head #4
screws provided.

45
Following the instructions in the separate
step-by-step anti-backlash assembly
instructions, assemble the last remaining
anti-backlash assembly before mounting it in
position.

With the anti-backlash assembly on the


threaded rod attached to the Z motor,
position the anti-backlash block against the
support bracket such that the anti-backlash
assembly and Z drivetrain is aligned vertically
beneath the Z motor.

Drill two 5/64” pilot holes into the anti-


backlash mounting block and affix it to the
bracket with the 3/8” pan head #4 screws
provided.

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46 Spindle
You can now attach your spindle.

The spindle nose should fit snugly in the


lower spindle nose support. Press it in until it
is firmly held in place.

Pass one of the mini cable ties through the


hole that runs the length of the upper
spindle support cradle and behind the
spindle. Attach the second cable tie to the
protruding end of the first tie, and then
thread the tail of the second tie through the
clamp on the end of the first tie.

Once done, both ties should be attached to


each other and loop through the support
cradle and over the spindle. The cable tie
should be located in the channel beneath the
switch bezel and the spindle body as shown
in the picture.

Using a pliers, pull the cable ties tight so that


the spindle is held securely in place.

47 Ta-daaa
Congratulations - your MyDIYCNC DIY
Desktop CNC Machine should now be
assembled.

To complete your installation, follow the


separate step-by-step electronics and wiring
assembly instructions.

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48
Troubleshooting
If your axis binds up at points along it’s
travel but moves freely at other points, then
your axis rods are most likely out of
alignment. Loosen the support mounts fro
that axis and follow the alignment processes
to align the rods.

49
If your axis is stiff along it’s entire travel, or
becomes stiff after some use, the bearings
may need lubrication. The Igus bearings used
on the MyDIYCNC Desktop CNC Machine are
designed to be run dry or lubricated. If they
become contaminated from work
dust/debris, a little lubrication can restore
free movement.

Using a light machine oil (such as air tool oil


or light 3-in-1 oil), squeeze a drop of oil onto
the tip of a small crosshead screwdriver. Use
the point of the screwdriver to transfer the
drop of oil to the top of the axis rod where it
contacts the bearing. Let the oil wick into
bearing-rod contact surface. Repeat for all
four bearings for that axis.

Do not use WD-40 or spray silicone


lubricants. These lubricants evaporate and
use solvents that can remove the self-
lubricating properties of your bearings
making your condition worse rather then
improved.

Using the same technique, place a drop of oil


onto the axis’ threaded rod where it enters
each end of the anti-backlash assemblies.

Use the jogging controls of your CNC


application to exercise the axis and work the
oil into the bearings and anti-backlash
mechanism.

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50
If your axis seems loose or there is play in
one or more bearings.

Having checked that all of your mounting


screws are tight, investigate the source of
the play/looseness. If the source is
movement of the Igus bearings in their
mounting sub-frame holes, then follow the
following technique.

Igus bearings can have slight variances that


can translate into minute movement in the
bearing mount. Also, any slight variance in
the mounting hole can also appear as minute
movement. However, in a machine whose
tolerance is within 0.001” this tiny variance
can appear as larger movement all the way
down at the spindle tip.

Igus provides a solution for these variances.


They specify that Loctite 480 compound be
carefully used to fill in and set any minute
variance in the bearing/mounting hole
interface. Loctite 480 is available on Amazon
.com (click here). You may find a local source
for Loctite 480 should you need it.

Loctite 480 is the Igus-recommended


solution. Please do not substitute
alternative adhesive filler compounds.

This procedure must be performed on the


offending bearing in-situ on your assembled
and aligned DIY Desktop CNC Machine. Do
not disassemble your machine to perform
this function. Doing so can render the
bearing assembly useless.

Rotate the bearing around the rod so that


the diagonal slit in the bearing is away from
you on the opposite side of the rod.

This is important, as you do not want any


Loctite 480 to get between the bearing and
rod as it will bind the bearing to the rod and
require replacement of the assembly.

Using a knife/blade, pull the Igus bearing out


from the bearing support sub-frame so that
you can see inside the mounting groove, as
indicated by the red arrow in the picture.
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©MyDIYCNC: Chassis Assembly Instructions
This is to allow access for the Loctite 480 to
wick into the groove between the bearing
and it’s support sub-frame.

Be sure to read the instructions on the


Loctite 480 bottle carefully before
application. Shake the bottle thoroughly
before applying. Take a moment to test
squeezing and flow from the Loctite

Take any caution necessary to prevent any


of the Loctite 480 compound from getting
on any part of your DIY Desktop CNC
Machine other than the groove specified in
the loose bearing.

Carefully squeeze a small amount of the


compound into the bearing groove. It will
flow into the groove without any assistance.
Do not apply too much compound as you will
run the risk of dripping over onto the rods.

Allow the Loctite 480 to set for about an


hour. Thereafter any play between the
bearing and the sub-frame will be
eliminated.

For technical support and additional resources, please login to your account at www.MyDIYCNC.com

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