Cooling coil

Evaporator coils come in a variety of shapes and sizes, depending on the type of
installation, the amount of cooling capacity needed, and the manufacturer. It is the source
of cooling as air passes through the furnace or air handler. They are constructed of
aluminum finned copper tubing. The copper tubing runs perpendicular to the aluminum
fins, making U-turns back and forth until the desired coil size is achieved. Added cooling
capacity without an increase in length and width is accomplished by adding more rows of
copper tubing.

Slant coils and horizontal coils have a slab appearance, similar to the radiator in an
automobile. They can be installed in ductwork running horizontally or in an air handler.
An A-coil is shaped like a capital A without the crossbar. It can be installed on top of a
fuel burning furnace heat exchanger or in an air handler. The newest design is the multi-
flex coil which is a series of A-coils linked together at the base. The multi-flex coil can
be installed in any position when encased in a special cabinet. All evaporator coils must
have a drain pan to collect the water that condenses as the air flowing across the coil
cools. The water can drain away by gravity or be pumped away.

The cooling effect that takes place inside the coil requires a pressure drop in the
refrigerant. This drop can be accomplished in a number of ways: capillary tube, piston or
orifice, or thermostatic expansion valve.

A capillary tube is a thin copper tube of predetermined length into which the compressed
liquid refrigerant is pumped. The length of the tubing causes the pressure drop and
subsequent cooling effect of the refrigerant.

A piston or orifice blocks the flow of refrigerant and forces it through a tiny hole,
creating the needed pressure drop.

A thermostatic expansion valve meters the flow of refrigerant to meet the cooling
demand of the coil. It determines this demand by way of a sensing bulb attached to the
outlet tube on the coil. Because it can meter the flow to meet demand, the expansion
valve can keep the coil at optimum cooling potential.

Here are some common defects to look for at the evaporator coil (cooling coil) in an air
conditioner or heat

Dirt or debris blocking air flow through the coil (DIRTY COOLING COIL)
Damaged cooling / evaporator coil fins over more than 10% of the coil surface,
blocking air flow (shown in our photo at left in this case, the damage is to a condensing
coil, not an evaporator coil). Small areas of damaged cooling fins can be straightened and
cleaned-up using a cooling coil comb. Cooling coils with extensive physical damage such
as shown in our photograph need to be replaced.

Evidence of refrigerant leaks (visual evidence may include stains from refrigerant oil
left at the point of leakage) (REFRIGERANT LEAK DETECTION)
 Evidence of mold growth on organic debris on the coil or elsewhere in the blower
compartment (Mold Growth in Air Handlers)
 Presence of unusual materials on the coil surface such as rodent debris, bird
feathers and debris, fiberglass insulation, large trash fragments like paper or leaves
confirming a duct or air filter problem. Some of these may indicate potentially serious
health risks such as rodent or bird feces and debris which risk bacterial and viral hazards
in building air. (Leaks, Rodents In Air Handlers)
 Obvious coil-to-air-handler size mismatch of an add-on cooling coil onto an
existing warm air system (ADDING A/C: RETROFIT SIZING)
 Evaporator coil or cooling leaks or holes: if an evaporator coil is leaking (or also if
the condensing coil is leaking) you'll find out pretty quickly as refrigerant will be lost and
the cooling system will stop providing cool air. You'll need expert diagnosis by an
HVAC service technician.

• A lot depends on where the refrigerant leak has occurred and what caused the
leak. If the cooling coil has a single point leak caused by some mechanical
damage (one of our readers accidentally drilled a hole in his coil while trying to
drill a drain hole in his air handler), it may be possible to find the hole and repair
it using silver solder.

• If the refrigerant leak is in copper tubing anywhere in the cooling or heat pump
system that is not too close to an evaporator coil or condensing coil, it should be
possible to solder a repair, then evacuate and recharge the cooling system.
• If the refrigerant leak is in copper tubing in or close to the cooling coil (or in a
condensing coil) a solder repair is hard to complete because the heat of the
soldering process tends to de-solder other nearby connections. It might be
possible if the technician is very expert and if s/he knows how to keep nearby
surfaces cooled (we've used a wet rag).
• If the refrigerant leak is in an aluminum part, soldering aluminum is more
tricky and may not be feasible. Ordinary procedures using a torch, for example,
just melt the aluminum. Expert welders use inert gas welding methods.
• If the refrigerant leak is due to severe corrosion anywhere in an HVAC system
we're not optimistic that a solder repair is possible. The conditions that caused a
corrosion-related leak are likely to have thinned and weakened other parts. The
cost of an attempted repair may be wasted.
• Replacement of the cooling coil (or condensing coil) is more often going to be
recommended by your HVAC technician because of these difficulties.
How Air Conditioning & Heat Pump Evaporator Coils (Cooling coils) are
Cleaned

Evaporator coil cleaning often requires cutting refrigerant lines, removal of the coil
and other components for cleaning, and reinstallation, pulling a vacuum on the
refrigerant lines, and recharge with refrigerant. Such service and repair may
involve significant expense, although there are some "in place" cleaning methods
using foams and sprays that are a simpler procedure.

FROST BUILD-UP - Frost Build-up on the Evaporator Coil in an Air

Conditioner

The ice or frost formed on a cooling coil in an air conditioner air handler unit is usually
caused by an improper refrigerant charge, possibly by inadequate air flow across the
cooling coil, or by a thermostatic expansion valve (TEV) or other air conditioner or heat
pump control defect.

Ice blocks air flow through the coil, thus reducing air conditioner output; if the ice
formation is extreme nearly all of the airflow across the coil is blocked and the air
conditioner system runs but does not produce cool air flowing into the occupied space.

Frost and ice can also form on refrigerant tubing at other locations, and frost and ice can
form inside air conditioning duct work itself, leading to troublesome leaks into the
building.

Details of what causes frost on air conditioning equipment, what problems that creates,
and how to diagnose and repair icing or frost on cooling coils or other air conditioner
parts are provided at FROST BUILD-UP. There we discuss locations and causes of
condensate, frost or ice formation in air conditioning systems, air handlers,
compressor/condensers, refrigerant lines, and in air ducts.
BLOCKED COOLING COIL - Air Conditioner Evaporator Coil Blocked
by Debris

Ice is not the only (nor even the most common) cause of blocked air flow in an air
conditioner. This photograph shows how easily debris can stick to and clog the inlet side
of the cooling coil in an air conditioning system. This evaporator coil was nearly totally
blocked with dust and debris. How does this happen?

There was no air filter installed in the system. Ordinary house dust is comprised largely
of fabric fibers and skin cells.

These and other debris in building dust such as soot and organic particles like pollen and
mold spores all join to form a gray mat on the fins of the cooling coil in an air handler.

Debris sticks particularly quickly to this surface because of the combination of close
spacing of the cooling fins (about 1/16" apart) and the fact that condensate forming on the
coil keeps the surface damp.

Details about the detection and cleaning of dirt and debris which block an air conditioner
cooling coil are at DIRTY COOLING COIL.