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9/30/2017 Category: Gear - Connecticut Custom Airguns
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Controlling Harmonics in a Barrel Hector Medina

(//www.ctcustomairguns.com/hectors-airgun- 2012 US National WFTF
blog/controlling-harmonics-in-a-barrel) Spring Piston Champion

2012 WFTF Spring Piston
10/4/2016 2 Comments (//www.ctcustomairguns.com/hectors-airgun-blog/controlling-harmonics-in-a-barrel#comments)
Grand Prix Winner
2013 World's WFTF Spring
I am often asked in relation to spring-piston airguns:
Piston 7th place
2014 Texas State WFTF
¿Why does my airgun shoot heavier/lighter pellets lower/higher and/or to one side? ¿Shouldn't the difference in
Piston Champion
trajectory simply be up or down?
2014 World's WFTF Spring
Piston 5th place.
The thing is further complicated when a heavier pellet shoots higher than a lighter one.
2015 Maine State Champion
WFTF Piston
¿What is happening here?
2015 Massachusetts State
Champion WFTF Piston
Well, several things could be happening, for example: I have found guns that shoot heavier pellets to higher
2015 New York State
POI's, even when the chrono tells us that the gun has a lower MV.
Champion WFTF Piston
Sometimes that happens when the rearwards recoil of the gun is pronounced. And there is the clue.
2015 US National WFTF
By the time the pellet leaves the muzzle the gun is halfway through the rearwards recoil cycle and the muzzle is
Piston 2nd Place
pointing a little higher up.
2016 Canadian WFTF
Because it seems that the pellets land higher, some shooters are convinced that a long first stage recoil cycle is
Piston Champion
better than a short snappy one.
2016 Pyramyd Air Cup
They demand that their guns be tuned to "push into the shoulder" rather than give the shooter a fast rap. And
WFTF Piston 1st Place
they maintain that a snappy cycle is no good,
Reality is that most of the difference in this case lies within the shooter's head. Archives
There is another effect that baffles shooters even more and that is when a heavier or lighter pellet prints not September 2017 (/hectors-
only with a vertical variation, that was expected, but also with a LATERAL variation. airgun-blog/archives/09-
2017)
Well, what is happening here is that the harmonics of the barrel make the barrel point to a different direction at March 2017 (/hectors-
every instant during the firing cycle. airgun-blog/archives/03-
2017)
Again, I've heard arguments that the harmonics can only be vertical oscillations because, after all, the barrel is December 2016 (/hectors-
held in place by the gun and the gun by the hands of the shooter, so ¿how can it move sideways? airgun-blog/archives/12-
2016)
Reality is that it can and it DOES. I am sure that if we could take a graphical reading of how the muzzle dances October 2016 (/hectors-
all over the place we would wonder at how can we even land a pellet or two in the target. airgun-blog/archives/10-
2016)
There have been in the past different "Muzzle Tamers", "HOTS" systems, "BOSS" systems and simple limb- September 2016 (/hectors-
savers borrowed from the archery world. airgun-blog/archives/09-
2016)
Most of them are complicated and require long shooting sessions to ascertain whether the small movement July 2016 (/hectors-airgun-
applied to a counterweight is beneficial or not to the harmony between barrel and pellet. blog/archives/07-2016)
June 2016 (/hectors-airgun-
In the firearms world there is still another system that controls the location of the forward pressure bedding point blog/archives/06-2016)
common in many sporters, and does quite a creditable job with just one screw and one plastic barrel support March 2016 (/hectors-
inletted into the forearm of the stock. But there is nothing like that for the airgun world. airgun-blog/archives/03-
2016)
For one, most airguns have what would be otherwise called "Free-floating barrels" especially the spring-piston January 2016 (/hectors-
ones. airgun-blog/archives/01-
2016)
Some years ago, Diana came out with the T/H series and then the Pro-Compact series. In both these lines the December 2015 (/hectors-
rifles bear a very heavy muzzle weight that is sometimes beneficial, sometimes not so much. airgun-blog/archives/12-
Part of the Diana problems lie in that the fit between barrel and weight is somewhat loose and that the grub 2015)
screws that attach the rather large weight are quite small. So, I have found some movement during the shot November 2015 (/hectors-
cycle of the weight, and there is no rifle that can be accurate with a large weight that moves differently each airgun-blog/archives/11-
shot. 2015)
October 2015 (/hectors-
The challenge then was to design something that was simple, robust, would not come out of adjustment easily, airgun-blog/archives/10-
but would still allow for the inevitable change of batch when the stash of "magic pellets" has been exhausted 2015)
and a new batch needs to be acquired. September 2015 (/hectors-
airgun-blog/archives/09-
After a few disasters with the commercially available units of the past and the present, I settled on two carefully 2015)
dimensioned muzzle weights. Much lighter than the OEM Diana ones; one that is appropriate for power levels August 2015 (/hectors-
of around 12 ft-lbs. and another that is suitable for full power rifles. The weights have a "hollow section" where airgun-blog/archives/08-
thin ORings can be inserted and then the muzzle piece is tightened. To get out of adjustment you would have to 2015)
loose an ORing or two and that is almost impossible without completely removing the muzzle weight itself. June 2015 (/hectors-airgun-
blog/archives/06-2015)
Now, what is interesting here is not the resulting gadget, that will have a place in the products section, but what May 2015 (/hectors-airgun-
is interesting is how the process of tuning out the harmonics of a given barrel demonstrate that the barrel blog/archives/05-2015)
vibrates in all directions. April 2015 (/hectors-airgun-
Let's see the target that shows the process: March 2015 (/hectors-
http://www.ctcustomairguns.com/hectors-airgun-blog/category/gear 1/24
2015)
February 2015 (/hectors-
2015)
January 2015 (/hectors-
2015)
December 2014 (/hectors-
2014)
November 2014 (/hectors-
2014)
2014)
August 2014 (/hectors-
2014)
July 2014 (/hectors-airgun-
June 2014 (/hectors-airgun-
May 2014 (/hectors-airgun-
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2014)
February 2014 (/hectors-
2014)
December 2013 (/hectors-
2013)
November 2013 (/hectors-
These are 5 shot groups shot at 19 yards (first zero in most of CCA guns). The numbers indicate the center to
center size of the group taken along the red lines.
2013)
For each group the muzzle piece was removed and one ORing inserted.
Starting on top left bullseye and using one of the holdover points, the group printed was 3.12 mm's.
2013)
Next on top right but still aiming low, the group opens to 3.81 mm's
September 2013 (/hectors-
Adding one more ORing and coming to the center bullseye, the group now opens to 4.77 mm's
Next is the bottom left bullseye where we add one more ORing and the group opens to 5.44 mm's
2013)
One more ORing (4 by now) and the group now closes to 3.43 mm's.
One more ORing (5) on the top left but at the center of the bullseye tells us that the goup opens again to 5.93
mm's
Categories
On 6 ORings the groups reach the 5.9 mm's
All (/hectors-airgun-
By 7 they close again to almost original size: 3.21 mm's
blog/category/all)
Events (/hectors-airgun-
Now, the sizes of the group tell us that the harmonics are cyclical, that is you may find a few sweet spots in the
blog/category/events)
middle but if you persevere you will find an overall minimum.
Gear (/hectors-airgun-
blog/category/gear)
Granted that these groups were shot with the pellet that the gun had chosen as its favourite pellet, but still the
Hunting (/hectors-airgun-
differences are somewhat big.
blog/category/hunting)
Tests (/hectors-airgun-
Now, MORE important than the size of the groups is the "Major Direction" that direction where you find the most
blog/category/tests)
distant shots in a group.
RSS Feed (/1/feed)

In groups with 0, 1, and 2, ORings the spread is horizontal, while on 3, 4 and 5 are almost vertical, by 6 things
go back to the horizontal; 7 is vertical again.
This rotation of the axes of the groups tells us that the barrel oscillates in all possible directions.
And that is something that is worth noting.
Keep well and shoot straight!
Héctor Medina
2 Comments (//www.ctcustomairguns.com/hectors-airgun-blog/controlling-harmonics-in-a-barrel#comments)
Converting a spring powered D34 into an N-Tec rifle

(//www.ctcustomairguns.com/hectors-airgun-
blog/converting-a-spring-powered-d34-into-an-n-tec-rifle)
9/2/2016
6 Comments (//www.ctcustomairguns.com/hectors-airgun-blog/converting-a-spring-powered-d34-into-an-n-tec-
rifle#comments)
First of all, and upon the good advice of the corporate counsel, the disclaimer:
The conversion done here was carried out by a professional gunsmith. No warranties implied, or
otherwise are intended in this article. The milling operations carried are sensitive, not devoid of
dangers and of a high precision nature.
Do NOT attempt this conversion if you are not completely qualified to do so.
This conversion has NOT been sanctioned by Diana nor by Mayer & Grammelspacher.
This conversion proved safe IN THE GUN that it was performed. We cannot guarantee that all other
guns will receive the conversion in the same way.
Please do not ask for measurements or dimensions, Connecticut Custom Airguns cannot provide these
data.
All designs and parts' shapes and dimensions are proprietary to Mayer & Grammelspacher and their
Diana brand.
UUufff! That was a mouthful!
Anyway, let's start at the beginning:
Many years ago, an Argentinian designer came up with the idea that a piston airgun could be a far simpler
device. So he set to work and came up with a peculiar gun where the lever moved the BARREL back. The
barrel, in turn, pushed a floating piston that to its rear had a closed cavity that could be pumped up with air, or
the air could be let out to reduce the energy stored in the compressed gas.
The lever then pushed forward the barrel and the loading was through a turn-cock arrangement like many old
German guns.
That prototype evolved and eventually became a commercial model, BUT, as it sometimes happens in life, a
pair of British subjects (we must remember they are not citizens), was also working on what they termed a
"superior device". Superior in the sense that it utilized the TRADITIONAL piston airgun architecture with all its
moving parts and peculiar triggers. So, in their zeal, they took the Argentinian designer to court and won the
case.
I have always suspected strongly of all litigations around "inventions". Lately, the world has adopted the
convention that the patent belongs to the FIRST TO PUBLISH, thereby eliminating the need to demonstrate the
specific date of the "invention". Again, I dislike this because it plays into the hands of those corporations that
have patent lawyers on retainer and whether they work or not, they charge a minimum monthly fee.
More and more we see all patents in our life (and death) owned by large corporations that can then jack up
prices as they want (the pharmaceuticals are a perfect example)
Perhaps, coming back to the "gas-ram" invention litigation, the Falklands war was also a determining factor.
Whatever it may be, it is an undisputable fact that the Argentinians already had a "Gas-Ram" rifle in commercial
production and being sold in their market when the idea was patented in the UK.
To the victor go the spoils.
Fast forward to the present day and after a little over two decades of exploitation, the patent expired.
And so, all of a sudden gas springs (different from Gas Rams) began cropping up everywhere. From the
Crosman's of a few years ago to the Hatsans and Diana's of present day and interest.
DO note that HW made their own Gas Ram model under license of the Brits, whether sold as HW or as
Beeman, it is the same gun.
Another thing that has evolved enormously is the science of materials. We now have materials that 25 years
ago would have been unthinkable. From Titanium, steel and high strength aluminum alloys to highly complex
polymers for seals we have at our disposal in economic terms things that in years past would have costed
hundreds, if not thousands, of dollars and would probably have required a National Security clearance to buy.
The improvement in materials and availability of pure, dry gases has changed substantially what the old Gas
Ram was.
I still remember about 17 years ago that I gifted a 0.20" cal. RX2 to my good friend Mike Pearson, airgun hunter
extraordinaire.
As soon as he received it he took the pump and pumped it up to the max. Then he complained about how hard
it was to cock and how inefficient the machine was.
That experience colored my perception of Gas Ram's (and gas springs, by extension) till the present.
I still fix the occasional RX-2 or HW-90, but after this experience I know that the REAL problem is that those
designs and specifications are simply obsolete.
I have to admit that I tackled this project with some trepidation. The modifications made to the gun would be
non-reversible, so the gun was modified forever. Something that IN GENERAL, I do not like to do. But the thirst
for knowledge and the long term route that I have planned needed this first stepping stone and so we took a
gun that was worth the effort.
And here comes another fact that should not surprise anyone: If you want an N-Tec gun, BUY an N-Tec gun.
Between the cost of the parts, the original gun, and the labour you would end up paying TWICE what the
original N-Tec equivalent gun would cost.
The only valid reason to attempt this conversion is if you have a superbly accurate 34 and you want to up the
power.
Of course, it could be argued that it would easier to swap barrels, but sometimes the accuracy is also a function
of how the stock fits the shooter and so, swapping barrels while expedient, reversible and economically savvy,
does not resolve all the issues.
And there are no lessons learned in a purchase.
So, having explained a little of the background, let's get to the technical aspects
On the TOP, the N-Tec powerplant, at bottom, the traditional steel spring power plant utilizing a Vortek PG-2 kit with a Vortek
Black-Ops seal specially designed for these guns.
The first thing that should call our attention is that the N-Tec unit is shorter than the traditional setup. This
means that the pre-compression is very short.
This is one of the virtues of the gas springs: they keep a constant pressure on the end of the stroke and do not
rebound as much as the steel arrangement of individual coils that we call steel springs. By eliminating the
rebound of the piston, the gun is much more efficient, specially on long transfer port models, like the 34.
The second thing that should call our attention is that Diana ships their N-Tec triggers with TWO dumb pins.
And the reason is simple: some parts could get out of place and cause severe problems upon assembly.
I have found that the usage of dumb pins, while not a necessity is a desirability because it speeds the process
and helps prevent problems.
Some people say that they NEVER use dumb pins in the disassembly of their guns, of course, when queried,
they have to admit that sometimes guns don't get assembled at first try, and the some pieces have become
damaged when they fell out of place and the gun was assembled like that.
My grandma used to say that "to those that die of their own will, death is but sweet nectar". Let everyone
disassemble their guns in whichever way they like, LOL!
The N-Tec assembly is composed of 4 parts:

The piston
The gas spring
A plastic spacer/washer that fits between the gas spring and the trigger unit
The T-06 trigger unit.
In opposition to the traditional T-06 trigger, the N-Tec T-06 trigger is an "interference" trigger. That is, it grips the
base of the piston's skirt and does not allow the piston itself to go forward. There is no claw, no plates, no balls.
Just a ramp that, when the sear releases, allows the piston to slip forward, much like an archer's release
While some have complained about the N-Tec T-06 trigger, I found my units to be surprisingly smooth and
consistent in their release. A true pleasure to shoot with, like the other T-06 triggers in the Diana lineup.
The piston lacks the stem and has a little longer body:
But all other dimensions are identical. Seal is the same.
Lever engagement and spacing are also identical.
At the bottom of its excursion, the piston aligns well.
But the point of insertion for the interference sear showed that there was a need for some relief.
The complete piston travel is also the same.
The trigger housing, however is wider. And so it needs to be. The forces that this trigger is subject to are greater
than the forces exerted by the steel spring one.
An interesting characteristic of all T-06 triggers is that they can be adjusted out of the gun. By pushing forward
the lever that is visible in this picture, the trigger is armed and the release can then be set to the user's wants.
Do note that the trigger housing is also longer, so that means relieving the stock inletting, but we'll see that later.
The receiver being milled.
Now the trigger can go in (tests performed without the gas spring). But there is something that does not quite
allow full insertion, Yup!, the interference sear needs relieving.
And then the stock gets milled to the proper depth, width and the shelf that the trigger has is also incorporated.
After the rough milling some scraping got rid of all those whiskers and shavings.
Because the trigger housing is larger, the rear stock screw needed is much shorter.
Because the piston has a recess where the head of the gas spring goes into, it is important to assemble
everything in a "train" in one continuous motion.
Don't forget to lube lightly the gas spring stem in any N-Tec system.
By the end of the day, nothing belies the fact that the originally sedate 12 ft-lbs carbine is now a 16 ft-lbs
powerhouse.
While 16 ft-lbs may not seem much, do consider that it's twice the rifle's weight with the Vortex Crossbow scope
installed..
Shot cycle is not harsh. Sudden, yes. Quick and Forceful. Very convincing. It also suprised me that the recoil is
straight in line. No jump. Of course the rifle's architecture has something to do with this, and it is one of the
reasons I am not in love with the current N-Tec offerings.
Apart from the 33.33% increase in power, the gun is easy to cock, even with the carbine's short barrel.
I cannot judgea accuracy right now. Some fantastic groups (3/8"@ 35 yards) and some not so good (1" at 35
yards). I think we need to let the old girl settle down to her new powerplant.
The N-Tec architecture is interesting even without the Nitrogen piston. Future work will involve doing the
conversion in a D48. I do not expect the same level of energy output increase in the short transfer port models
as opposed to the long transfer port models, but it will be interesting to see what happens there. Of course, the
aim in the long run is to have a short-stroked, gas springed Diana 54, shall we call it the 540? LOL!
The new interference trigger opens a whole new avenue of interesting possibilities, so we will be doing some
work there in the future.
The gas springs have come a long way from the old RX-2 / HW-90 technology.
New gas spring guns are smooth to cock and efficient in the use of energy, unlike the older specimens.
Hopefully, one day, Diana will offer a true Gas Ram, where the power output can be regulated by regulating the
initial pressure in the gas spring.
Whatever happens, I am glad to have been corrected about my bad impressions of the gas springs.
Héctor Medina
6 Comments (//www.ctcustomairguns.com/hectors-airgun-blog/converting-a-spring-powered-d34-into-an-n-tec-
rifle#comments)
A detailed look into how effective are ZR Mounts in

protecting a scope in a spring-piston rifle.
(//www.ctcustomairguns.com/hectors-airgun-blog/march-
14th-2016)
3/14/2016 9 Comments (//www.ctcustomairguns.com/hectors-airgun-blog/march-14th-2016#comments)
There have been doubts expressed about how effective the ZR Mounts are.
Some people have had broken scopes using the 2nd generation, some people have had scope slippage using
the 1st generation of these mounts. So, let's take a look at them.
The 1st generation mounts suffered from a lack of absolute repeatabilty, which we corrected with our
"Accurized" version.
The 2nd generation increased the diameter of the pins (from around 0.237" to 0.257") where the top section of
the mount slides on as a means to overcome the lack of "register", and added a very viscous lubricant in order
to provide some "dampening". Sadly, these improvements have proven fatal flaws.
The mounts can become so hard, that they do not eliminate ANY recoil, acting more like solid mounts than like
floating mounts.
And this is the operative word: Float.
If you look at our High Speed Analysis of How ZR Mounts Work (http://www.ctcustomairguns.com/hectors-
airgun-blog/a-high-speed-analysis-of-the-way-the-zr-mounts-work), you can see that what in effect happens is
that the initial REARWARD recoil originated by the spring pushing the piston forward separates the floating
section from the fixed section of the mount. This separation enables the piston to end its race towards the end
of the compression chamber and the pellet to exit BEFORE the scope is affected. In other words, by the time
the FORWARD recoil that kills scopes begins, the scope is not in a rigid relation to the bottom section of the
mount. Therefore, the lower section of the mount CANNOT transmit the FORWARD recoil generated by the
piston's race coming to an end. And so, the scope is saved from the brutal forward recoil.
Let's take a second first to think about what a recoil is.

In essence it is a force, but forces by themselves seldom break things. Even a china cup can bear enormous
weights (forces) as long as the stress comes to the cup in a slow and constant manner.
What breaks things, in reality is when one section of that thing undergoes one acceleration while another
section undergoes a different acceleration.
That is why destructive forces are measured in "g"s.
Of course the quantity that relates forces and accelerations is the mass (usually constant), so heavier objects
suffer more from the same "g"s than a lighter object.
Sometimes people tell me that their rifles (specially the NP's) do NOT have a forwards acceleration. And some
videos tend to show that NP's recoil BACK but suddenly stand still. There seems to be no apparent movement
FORWARD.
What we tend to forget is that once an object starts moving, according to the Newtonian laws prevalent in OUR
world, that object should keep on moving in the same direction and at the same speed that it was.
IF that object suddenly stops, it can only stop because a force, a "g times X" has acted on the object.
So, those NP's that SEEM to have no forward recoil because they do not feel to jump forward, may have a quite
appreciable forward recoil; at least enough to stop the rifle, scope, and shooter's arms in its tracks once they
had started to move to the rear.
But coming back to the ZR mounts our problem is HOW to look into how effectively the mounts isolate the
scope from the rifle's recoil.
Someone suggested getting some accelerometers and instrumenting a scope. Sadly that is an economical
hurdle we cannot overcome, BUT in the discussions that ensued, my Brazilian friend said something, ALMOST,
tongue in cheek that clicked in my head; he said "if the recoil felt by the scope was Zero, then the scope could
be simply lying on the mount and it should not move".
Hmmm, interesting point of view. Of course, even though the mounts are called ZR (zero recoil), it does not
mean ABSOLUTE ZERO. The rifle moves, therefore the scope needs to move a little. We cannot simply put a
scope in the bottom rings and expect it not to move. NOTHING is absolute.
BUT, some tests could be performed by starting at a VERY LOW torque of the rings' screws and increasing the
torque till the scope did not move.
And that was the start of it! LOL!
I went and bought a FAT Wrench (FAT stands, supposedly, for Firearms Accurizing Torque). Basically it is a
screwdriver shaped torque meter that accepts hex bits like we use in all the interchangeable bit drivers. What
drew me to that, was it was the only fairly economical device that offered a calibration certificate.
Since I am working on creating a "Universal Rifle" that will do everything a reasonable airgun can do, I had
ahead of me a torture test of some components inside the gun ("torture test" for CCA means 300 shots fired
over the course of a morning, or afternoon, about 4 hours). We have found that components that survive this
test usually survive well into years of common usage by FT shooters and that means decades of usage by
hobby airgunners. So, it is our standard test of "endurance".
And I thought I would use the opportunity to test the idea: Start with the LOWEST setting on a torque wrench (in
this case, the 10 in-lbs. setting has been calibrated by the manufacturer to be in reality 10.4 in-lbs), and shoot a
lot with the ZR mounts in a D54 and see if the scope crept in either direction. IF the scope crept I was prepared
to go to 12½ in-lbs and see if it crept; if it crept, then I would go to 15 in-lbs. and see what happened there.
Since 15 in-lbs is what "economy" scope makers think is the max they want their scopes torqued to, I would
stop there for public consumption, but I would test at 20, 25, 30 and 35 in-lbs, which is the value that good
scopes can take (on metric mounts with 3 mm's screws).
So I gathered all the necessary equipment:
A close up of the rings and the scope:
Picture
The scope in question is a Sightron Benchrest 36X42 (http://info.sightron.com/Riflescopes/SII-

Series/SII36x42BRD/]http://info.sightron.com/Riflescopes/SII-Series/SII36x42BRD/) scope it is a 1" scope and
in no way is it too light, nor too strong. I would say it is the most "garden variety" of the scopes in the Sightron
line.
I degreased ALL mating surfaces with Lacquer Thinner:
Do note how much "GUNK" came out with the degreasing. All this gunk can and will aid the scope in slipping
the rings. Once the scope and the rings are clean DO NOT TOUCH THEM!
DISCLAIMER.- Newer scopes have finishes that are not as resistant, so do NOT use lacquer thinner, but use
rubbing alcohol to degrease instead.
Set my FAT wrench to the 10 in-lbs value planned:
And set the BASE screws to that torque:
To make it easy to detect if the BASE had slipped I aligned the front of the base to the end of the rail:
And then using just TWO fingers, I started tightening the ring screws in a zig-zag pattern. It is IMPORTANT to
NEVER tighten a screw more than 1/16th of a turn. Then move over and to the next screw, then over and to the
next. Viewed from above it is a zig-zag that goes across the scope tube 7 times.
If you tighten one screw more than the counterpart of the opposite side, the scope may twist, and when it twists,
it locks the slide. I have also found scopes that are NOT STRAIGHT, especially those that are made in 3 parts
(foretube, afttube and saddle).
IF a freely sliding ZR Mount locks, SOMETHING IS WRONG. Back off and analyze calmly what may be wrong.
The Gen 1 ZR mounts slide freely, the Gen 2 need complete disassembly, then cleaning with Lacquer Thinner,
and then you're back to a "functioning" ZR mount.
Anyway, continuing:
After ALL the screws have been snugged down EVENLY, then you start torqueing the screws into place:
Again, FOLLOW the Zig-Zag pattern!
And when the wrench "cracks", go back two or three times around all the 8 screws to make sure that you have
not missed or stressed any screw above any other.
After I finished torqueing all the screws to the LOWEST setting possible, I made two "witness marks" in the
scope with white grease china marker:
And then I proceeded to shoot.
After the first 10 shots, nothing had moved.
After the first 50 shots, nothing had moved.
I stopped worrying and proceeded with the 300 shots test, this is the result:
As you can see, NOTHING MOVED.
We can, therefore, safely conclude that ZR mounts, when properly setup, DO work.
I cannot stress enough that in airgunning what seems simple is, usually, an illusion.
The most basic things like tightening a screw can have repercussions in how the whole system behaves.
That is why there are a LOT of "EXPERTS" out there, but very few Pros.
Anyway, I hope this helps in making a good idea more functional to the majority of shooters.
Héctor Medina
9 Comments (//www.ctcustomairguns.com/hectors-airgun-blog/march-14th-2016#comments)
What links airgunners to the Chinese warriors of the 13th

Century? (//www.ctcustomairguns.com/hectors-airgun-
blog/what-links-airgunners-to-the-chinese-warriors-of-the-
13th-century)
1/30/2016
7 Comments (//www.ctcustomairguns.com/hectors-airgun-blog/what-links-airgunners-to-the-chinese-warriors-of-the-
13th-century#comments)
If I told you that the Industrial Revolution started in China around the year 500 BEFORE the Common Era
(BCE), would it be too difficult to believe?
And yet, it is true.
It is widely accepted that one of the premises of industrial production is the concept of "standard parts". I.E.
parts that can be interchanged between assemblies and still maintain function of said assemblies; in a larger
sense: parts that can be manufactured in large numbers by specialists, running special tools, jigs and gauges
that allow them to ensure that the bunch of parts they make when assembled with the bunch of other parts that
a bunch of other specialists like them have made, will produce a big bunch of assembled devices that work as
intended. Enough to provide for an army.
Up until the 19th Century in the western world, all manufacturing was made by hand. Some parts were farmed
out between different artisans and they each agreed on how to do things.
Large arms manufacturing regions grew up around this concept like Suhl and Styria in Europe, the
Pennsylvania and Connecticut riflemaking areas in the USA and Tanegashima in Japan.
It is not uncommon in older guns (made between the 1400's and the 1800's) to find rifles that had one maker for
the barrel, another for the lock and another for the stock. And that was good. It allowed for a number of
independent makers to pool their resources to tackle a government contract. BUT there was also a downside:
large parts were pretty much made all the same, or within certain practices and customs but, when even the
screws had to be made by hand not all nuts screwed onto all screws! This created a peculiar situation where
armies had real issues with maintenance.
Eli Whitney was the first western entrepreneur-politician to get the idea on the political map by getting Congress
to give him money for the development of a standardized musket. The first successful demonstration of
interchangeable parts to make long guns was done in front of a Congress committee in 1801 (the
demonstration was rigged but), it allowed Whitney to get more funds and get the idea firmly rooted in the
Industrial mind to the extent that it was from thereon, called the "American System".
By 1825 John Hall had implemented the idea of parts interchangeability and gauges for quality control at the
Harper's Ferry Arsenal in Virginia.
It was not till just before the Mexican War (1846) that Joseph Whitworth in England standardized threads and
screw sizes. By the Civil War, it was a common concept.
BUT, in the Far East, the idea of gauges, standard parts, standard metallurgy, and interchangeability had been
born about 2,300 years before:
Sorry about the quality of the picture, but it is not easy to come across good, HD pictures from Chinese
journals. Let's take a look at a diagram:
When the trigger is in the released position (as in the lower section of the diagram above), you can see that the
locking lever and the sear are down, the trigger is in the back position.
As the bowstring is drawn (or the piston's stem pushed back), the locking lever is raised by turning on its axle
pin, which in turn raises a stationary pin at the front of the bottom lobe of the locking lever. This stationary pin
then acts on the slot of the sear to bring it up. The trigger notch then can engage the sear and lock everything in
place, until the trigger is pulled.
Those of you that are observant will ask ¿How is the trigger moved forward to engage the sear? there is no
spring to do that!
And while they would be right, they are forgetting how a crossbow is cocked: USUALLY, the bow is fitted to a
stock that has a nose, and that nose is set on the ground so that the shooter can pull the string with both hands,
Therefore it is gravity what pulls the trigger "forward" (down in reality) when the sear and trigger notch get
aligned.
Chinese crossbows had no butt section in the stock, that was invented in the middle east many years later
(remember we are talking 500 BCE for the time being) and so the shooter took aim with the crossbow held in
front of his eyes, held with both hands in the air.
In this position, the upper bar of the cocking lever aligned the eye and the point of the arrow, and if suitable
markings were applied to the rear end of the cocking lever, it would also allow the firing officials to tell their
soldiers how high to aim.
When you field thousands of crossbows you are not really interested in the accuracy of a single bolt, but you
are rather more interested in an approximate DISTANCE to impact.
Military records show that the Chinese had perfected the "rising curtain" barrage and knew how to coordinate
that with their cavalry charges. Not bad for a time when the Romans were still fighting in "turtle formation".
As time went by, the arrows became also more and more standardized, and then the bows. By the times of
China's First Emperor (Shi-Huang-Ti of the western world's literature, roughly 210 BCE), things were pretty
uniform, to the point where we can identify who made what in his tomb by the measurements of the pieces:
It would take eight more centuries till the increased perfection of bows, arrows, and technique allowed some
smart officers to dedicate corps of expert crossbowmen to pick off enemy officers and "decapitate" the efforts of
the enemy army. By the year 1004 of the Common Era, the value of the well placed single shot became very
apparent in the battle of Shanzhou.
From there, it took another 773 years till single marksmen could make a dramatic impact in the course of
human history, and another 200 years to get to the point where "surgical snipers" were a valued element of all
armed forces.
But, we digress, let's come back to the airgun world.
¿What links the crossbow and the airgun as far as the triggers are concerned?
For one is the MAIN function: BOTH need to hold back rather impressive forces, while at the same time
allowing for relatively smooth release of a well positioned (if not aimed) shot.
I do not know if modern airgun trigger designers had read, heard, or seen these examples. The Western
crossbow trigger is radically different (and inferior IMHO) and yet, when you see the diagrams of the finest of
the early airguns in modern times you cannot but see the resemblance:
In this diagram of the BSF "Bavaria Match Pistole" by TW Chambers, we can see that the part that is labelled
SR221 in the pin DP416 looks uncannily similar to the sear of the Chinese trigger.
Apart from the form, and basic functions, there is one more area where crossbow triggers also resemble most
airgun triggers: It is the rearward motion of the string (or Piston Stem), what initiates the cocking action in the
trigger.
Let's look now at the Rekord trigger:
The piston stem pushes rearward on part 50d, which in turn forces part 50a "down/forward" and clicks part 52a
under spring pressure.
When the trigger pushes part 52a UP, that allows part 50a to move "back" and allows part 50d to release the
piston to move forward.
The TX-200 trigger is almost identical:
And the Walther LGU/LGV trigger is not far as can be seen in the photo hereunder.
In all these triggers the SHAPE of the parts may be a little different, but in essence it is the same trigger.
For years and years triggers had been simple affairs, limiting the power of air rifles, like the old Meteor:
Diana, for reasons all of their own have never followed too closely the general trends in the rest of the airgun
world, they started with the non-unitized triggers made up of loose parts but evolved into the unitized T-01
trigger shown here:
The T-01 is a fine trigger for most purposes, it did open the field to higher powered airguns. The three ball sear
is extraordinarily strong (strong enough to be used in some firearms as a bolt/chamber closing device) and
allowed the use of very stout mainsprings and long strokes which meant that rifles were able to achieve muzzle
energies in the region of the 20 ft-lbs in those countries where it was legal, but it has one disadvantage: it is
slow for some type of precision work.
As is normal in companies, Diana developed new triggers that were numbered successively. The next major
trigger was the T-05:
The T-05 is a "lawyer's trigger" because it takes considerable effort from the users to make it release at low
forces, and therefore protects the company from any liability by ensuring that it is clear that any accidental
discharge is the responsibility of the user, not of the company.
The T-05 CAN be made into a fine trigger, but it can never achieve the speed of release or the lightness of
release that a Rekord/TX-200/LGV/LGU/Quattro. . . can achieve. The sliding plates simply take too much time
in getting out of the way.
Enter the T-06 trigger:
The T-06 is a "gunsmith's trigger".
It operates well from the start and it gets better with use. The parts that are REALLY under stress are hard steel
castings and forgings. The process of fabrication itself yields parts that are tough cored and yet surface hard.
Which is exactly what you want: inner strength and smoothly surfaced.
Seeing all the parts involved may frighten at first, but if we go to the core of the trigger, we see that we still have
3 basic levers interacting with each other to cock the rifle, and then release the spring.
Let's look at a simpler diagram:
In the case of the T-06, the piston does not have to push back on the locking lever because the locking lever is
a hook.
The piston just needs to go past the hook to be latched/locked. The cocking of the trigger itself takes a lot less
force than in the case of the typical airgun trigger.
Once the piston goes past the hook/locking lever, the sear engages and is blocked from allowing the hook to let
go of the piston by the sear lever.
The sear lever is held in place by the spring and the trigger blade. As screw #1 is adjusted in, the degree of
engagement of the first stage is set, and then the the additional force required to release the sear lever that
then releases the sear is regulated by the second stage screw.
There is space in this trigger to add a true first stage travel regulation screw, but that is truly a job for a
professional:
As it comes from the factory, the T-06 is a good trigger, but a trigger job can make it into a GREAT trigger.
Selective additional parts, polishings and some tuning/changing of the screws will yield a trigger that is as good
as any Match trigger. It has the speed to work well for offhand shots and the precision and repeatability for
precision supported shots.
It CAN be made very light, but you really do NOT want too light a trigger. It is not only hard to control, but also
VERY EMBARRASSING to loose points to a trigger that goes off with a thought.
A good trigger weight is around 1# give or take ½ of it. Some of us like triggers in the 2# region and with a good
second stage because the "taking up" of the first stage is where we finish our mental preparation to release the
shot.
Triggers have been advancing for almost 2,300 years, and we are lucky to be standing on the shoulders of
giants. That first locksmith that designed the relatively complicated mechanism that performs all needed
functions without hassle, day in day out; that will hold forces in the region of hundreds of pounds and, still,
release those great forces with the exertion of a pound or two of our index fingers. Yes, if we can see far it is
because we are standing on the shoulders of giants.
And so, next time that you are about to break a shot. Think for a moment about all those Chinese crossbowmen
that enjoyed what in THEIR time was the epitome of the shooting art, and feel yourself in good company.
Héctor Medina
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At the Moment of Firing and Fit of pellet to the rifling

(//www.ctcustomairguns.com/hectors-airgun-blog/at-the-
moment-of-firing-and-fit-of-pellet-to-the-rifling)
1/19/2016
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INTRODUCTION.- One of the most misunderstood aspects of airgunning is

the series of small, but important events that take place at the moment we pull
the trigger.
Firearms enthusiasts know well the series of events that transpire inside the
brass case the moment the trigger is pulled, but let us review them for the
sake of those that are not so familiar with powder burners: the firing pin
impacts the primer, the pre-stressed mixture ignites, sending a jet of very hot
gases through a small hole into the main/powder charge cavity of the case
where the granules of smokeless or the flakes of black/synthetic powder ignite
in a somewhat random fashion. The further high temperature and pressure of
the gases defeat the coating of the granules and ignite them in somewhat of a
chain reaction. This makes the pressure inside the case soar to levels that are
high to really grasp in our normal everyday mind as we never encounter in our
everyday lives things that work at between 16,000 and 55,000 pounds per
square inch (PSI).
Just to put that into perspective: imagine in your mind’s eye a 27 ton Sperm
Whale (like Moby Dick) standing on its nose supported by a steel billet that is
1” on each side, square.
If you think Uncle Ted stepping on your toes was bad this last Christmas, I can
assure you this would be many times worse.
So, there is a lot of pressure, and that pressure impinges on the BASE of the
bullet. That base may be solid, or hollow; flat or boattail, but in general we are
talking of something substantial and even the Minnie style hollow base bullets
are solid at most 1/6 of the way forward. Yes lead is “soft”; anywhere from
Brinell 5 to Brinell 22, and if it is a jacketed bullet, then you are talking of
Brinell 35-125 (if the jacket is pure copper - gilding metal). Main point to
remember here is that NOTHING in the firearms world approaches the
softness of a skirted pellet that is hollow almost halfway through its length and
made of alloys that, in the hardest of cases, contain still less than 3%
antimonium (non-lead pellets are different, and while those require special
attention, they still are much softer than the softest jacketed or plated bullet).
But, let’s go back to the point where gases are starting to impinge on the base
of the bullet, and this pressure, exerted over an area means a force. The force
created thus pushes the bullet out of the case, pushes the case walls out into
the chamber walls and seals the neck of the brass case to the steel neck of
the chamber, thereby providing a really good seal. This is what keeps us safe
from all the mayhem inside the brass case when we shoot.
The bullet is forced forward VERY rapidly. So rapidly that the front section of
the bullet does not want to move and this forces the rear section of the bullet
to expand into the rifling, sealing the gases behind. If the bullet is solid, there
is little “upset” as this phenomenon is called, but if the bullet is hollow based
or soft, this upset has to be taken into account when designing the bullet.
Some is good, too much might not. For a short while, under these pressures
and forces, the metal of the bullet is in almost a malleable/fluid state; and in a
short time after this, the front of the bullet finally gets accelerated and also
upsets, filling the rifling completely.
In the cast bullet world, it is generally understood that bullets have to fit within
0.001” of the LAND / CALIBER / GROOVE diameter, and that the hardness of
the alloy has to be such that no material gets stripped off the projectile and
gets embedded into the rifling. At present, we do not use as many rifling
designs as we used to: Pope, Forsyth, Alex Henry, Segmental, Obermeyer,

Ballard, Green, Ratchet, MicroGroove, Enfield, Polygonal, Elliptical, Whitworth
and a host of other styles, but, for the present, the list is quite shorter: MOST
airgun manufacturers will use the land and groove style with equal angular
spreads for lands and grooves called Enfield or Ballard or the Polygonal style
now in use by Lothar Walther (http://lothar-walther.com/454.php) barrels,
VERY FEW manufacturers will go to the trouble of designing a barrel for a
specific projectile, as it has been proven that the general style does work over
a wider range of speeds, shapes, materials and duties.
The exception, of course, are those barrels designed for military projectiles
(where the potential of a government contract makes sense to go through the
development process) and, to our knowledge, the 0.20" cal CCA barrel
designed specifically for the JSB 13.7 grains Exacts (and made by Lothar
Walther (http://lothar-walther.com/454.php)).
The MAIN duty of the rifling is to swage the projectile to its final shape and
make it turn.
Why so many styles for such a simple duty? you may ask.
The reality is that the design of the rifling is also responsible for a number of
things:
How much energy is needed to get that projectile swaged to its final shape?
How much interference there is between the original shape and the final
shape and therefore, how much cleaning the barrel will need.
How UNIFORM can the barrel be built or made.
For a time, I experimented a bit with the Forsyth rifling (in airguns also known
as the "Career" rifling. But that experiment, alas, was not as successful as I
wanted. And yet it produced an interesting result (more on that later).
IN THE AIRGUN WORLD.- What happens is, perhaps less dramatic from the
numbers and units standpoint, but given the SHAPE of the classic Diabolo
Pellet, the proportion of forces, pressures and temperatures (especially in the
spring-piston airguns), AND the extremely low level of available energy it is
probably much more important than in the case of firearms where energy is
plentiful. So, let’s analyze step by step the events inside the barrel when we
pull the trigger. We will need to divide the discussion between Springers and
PCP’s because the pellets suffer a slightly different process and even within
the springer class the process is slightly different in the case of those guns
with long transfer ports and those with short transfer ports. But let’s take it
case by case:
In a PCP, when the trigger is pulled this releases, in MOST cases, a hammer
that impinges on a valve that then pops open, allows some quantity of high
pressure gas to flow through it and then closes. Depending on whether it is a
regulated or a non-regulated gun, the pressure admitted into the expansion
chamber may be anything between 3,000 PSI’s and 1,150 PSI’s. Some guns
work at very high chamber pressures (like the Walther 300, the HW-100, or
the Talon), some guns work at very low chamber pressures like the USFT. But
we are still dealing with a force that in the BEST of cases (1,150 PSI’s applied
over 0.177” diameter means around 28 lbs), is still substantial in relation to
the pellet’s material and shape.
Go back to the mental image of the whale and now imagine a single pellet
supporting the weight of a young child. Yes we are not dealing with the
fantastic numbers of the 7X66 Vom Hoffe but, for a humble pellet, this is
indeed a great stress.
The saving grace is that, like some things in life nothing lasts forever, and this
force is applied over a VERY short time to the pellet. So short that if you could
apply the same proportion of force in a step in the same amount of time, you
could walk on water. As a matter of fact, that is how some lizards actually walk
on water.
So, the high pressure gas impinges on the pellet’s hollow skirt and drives
forward the pellet. Just as in the case of the bullet, the pellet’s front section
(the head) wants to stay put through inertia, and while the skirt is pushing
forward, the head is resisting and this places all the stress in the waist or in
the column that links the two parts (head and skirt) of the pellet.
As is the case in firearms, the high pressure gases also exert sideways forces
and these tend to blow out the skirts of our pellets:
On the Left a fired Marksman pellet, on the right an unfired one. Look at the skirt and how it deformed (blew out). This pellet
was fired from a Talon SS with a Lothar Walther barrel.
Careful experiments have shown that pellets DO DEFORM upon firing. And
one of my preferred methods of choosing the best possible pellet for a barrel
involves soft-capturing fired pellets and measuring how much they expand at
the waist or the column. The more they expand, the less are we in control of
the final shape of the pellet once we have pulled the trigger.
Once the pellet starts to move, depending on how the chamber was machined
(or not), the head engages the rifling before the skirt and this also exerts a
TORSIONAL stress on the waist or the column. At times, this stress may be
enough to deform the pellet substantially, in most cases it is not, but it is still
mentioned here to point out to problematic barrels that, in reality, need only to
have their chambers fitted to the pellet the shooter wants to use.
The JSB Heavy MkI (original model) unfired on the left, fired from a Talon in the middle and fired from a Steyr LG-100 on the
right.
By now, our pellet has been pushed, it has already upset in the rifling, and is
travelling down the bore. And then, it reaches the choke. The choke is a
constriction at the muzzle that is used to improve on the accuracy of the
pellets. It is a historical aspect that came about when ranges were short (think
less than 30 yards/meters) and the lack of standardization in the
manufacturing of pellets was so blatantly lacking that some countries even
went to a numbered bore system instead of a caliber. Back in those days the
waisted pellet was an anomaly, it was produced in roller dies and the most
common pellet was a slug, sometimes with a felt base (for lubrication).
Chokes then made some guns shoot well a variety of pellets that could
deviate in caliber almost a thousandth of an inch either way from what was
SUPPOSED to be the NOMINAL caliber.
We now keep the choke not only as a historical habit and custom, but in part
to STILL handle the differences in manufacturers’ specifications. The choke’s
constriction, then becomes the last obstacle in the race of the pellet from
chamber to target. In this case, it is the HEAD the one that suddenly
encounters a resistance and it is the inertia of the skirt what tries to deform
further the waist.
So, by now, our pellet has been pushed, shoved, blown out and squeezed.
And we still expect it to have the same original shape and ballistic coefficient?
I think that is a little naïve on our part. And if we think that is extreme
treatment of our favourite projectiles, let’s look now at what happens in a
springer.
In the case of the springer, when we release the trigger, the large mass of the
piston gets accelerated forward, the seal seals when the pressure between
the pellet’s resistance and the reducing chamber of the compression chamber
reaches the point where the parachute opens (unless it is an ORing’ed
piston). The piston continues to move not only due to the constant force
applied by the mainspring, but also due to the inertia it has now acquired. By
the time the piston reaches the end of the compression stroke, the pressure
inside the compression chamber can be as high as 3,000 PSI’s and the
TEMPERATURE can reach up to 2-3,000 F. Ideally, this set of conditions turn
the air into a plasma and this plasma has very little internal friction (viscosity),
so that it can flow through the transfer port and into the chamber.
IF the transfer port is too long, then the plasma has time to expand, cool down
and return to a state of highly compressed gas. This MAY be beneficial in
some guns shooting particularly thin skirted pellets, but in general, it reduces
the efficiency of an airgun substantially. In those cases where the transfer port
is short (most instances of sliding compression chamber guns), the plasma
hits the pellet’s base not only with a blast of air, but with a blast of very hot air.
The higher the temperatures and pressures getting to the chamber, the higher
the efficiency of the gun will be. Once the gases hit the pellet and the pellet
starts to move, the rapid expansion of the available volume cools down the
air, so the pellet does not suffer from the high temperatures BUT, what DOES
suffer from the high temperatures is the breech seal. Even the smallest of
defects in the seal will begin allowing the hot plasma to exit between the seal
and the barrel’s breech and this will create real “flame cutting” grooves in
seals that do not fit well, are ill designed, suffer from poor quality materials, or
are overstressed in relation to their initial operating parameters.
Picture
What the pellet DOES suffer is the incredibly more abrupt acceleration that a
springer applies in relation to what PCP’s do.
Those shooters that have been shooting airguns for more than 15 years will
remember the “Flying Trash Can” pellets, and how they sometimes blew up so
badly as to become complete cylinders.
Luckily, the pellet making industry has advanced by leaps and bounds and we
no longer have to worry with such extreme cases as long as we stick to
quality ammunition and reasonable operating regimes. But it is still a concern
where extreme precision is looked for with a spring-piston airgun, as paying
attention to the internal ballistic aspects of the shot cycle is a must for those
endeavours.
After the first, initial, blast starts expanding, the course of the pellet’s life
inside the bore is pretty similar in either powerplant. The pellet will still travel
through the bore and will still encounter the choke.
A completely blown up pellet
What we can do with this information.-

If you are a user/shooter:
Do note that the pellet designers have two basic ways of thinking. Let’s say,
two “philosophies”:
In the case of JSB, H&N, RWS, and others, pellets are designed so that the
head, USUALLY, rides the bore, but the SEAL is performed by the skirt at the
groove. This allows for a little more efficiency from the system, as less energy
is expended on re-shaping the hardest part of the pellet to the rifling.
It also implies that the skirt size needs to be closely matched to the GROOVE,
depending on the specific design of the rifling. For example, if one rifle seems
to be accurate with very large pellets (4.53’s or 5.55’s), then it MIGHT be
worthwhile to test that rifle with pellets in the 4.50 or 5.51 sizes, as the
difference is to make the head engage the rifling, or just ride on it.
On the left are Crosman Premiers. Do note how deep the head engages the rifling, as opposed to the Marksman pellets.
Both pellets were equally accurate out to 50 meters from this Talon, even though the Premiers look less deformed.
BUT, In the case of the Crosman Premier, the Defiants, and others, the
obturation (seal) is done AT THE HEAD, and the skirt is just along for the ride.
The pellet is not as “hollow” as other designs and it has to be made of harder
alloys. It is impossible to make these pellets “ride the lands”, as there would
not be an effective seal and much energy would be lost.
So, each shooter has to decide what he wants to try and be prepared for
behaviours that do not necessarily match pre-conceived notions of what
'should' work and what should not.
SOME guns may benefit, from the accuracy standpoint, of using one design
style over another, BUT what is critical is that the consistency of the
manufacturing demands is much higher when BOTH functions are assigned
to one side of the pellet, as opposed to splitting the duties. On top of that,
there will be a small efficiency drop, but a few fps is not important when you
consider that the objectives of the airgunner are achieved through precision,
not power.
Another important factor is that pellets that are designed to seal and guide at
the head also impose a higher degree of stress to the material. And that is
why they are made of harder alloys, either by adding antimonium to the lead,
or using tin. In those cases, the harder alloys benefit MOST from using a good
bore lubricant; applied directly to the bearing surfaces of the pellet, it will not
only reduce the energy available for the generation of harmonics, but will also
protect the bore from leading.
If you ever get interested in designing a rifling.-

You need to define what "philosophy" you want to use: will your rifling engage
the head fully all the way to the grooves? Will the rifling be designed to make
the head "ride the lands" and only the skirt needs to seal? What rifling pitch
will you use? What metal spec will you use to manufacture the barrels?
Ordinary mild steel? What happens in the case of breakbarrels where the
barrel is the cocking lever? Are you sure of the REAL, not the NOMINAL
dimensions of the pellet you selected?
If, by some reason, you want it to shoot well ALL the pellets, by now it must
be clear that such a magic barrel would be almost impossible.
Just to give you an idea, here is a figure from a rifling patent, showing how
many dimensions need to be specified for a rifling:
And in addition to the seven dimensions hereabove noted, you need to

specify the material, the rifling pitch, and the manufacturing tolerances.
Now, all the theory in the world (even when proven by a few experiments) is
useless in the field if in YOUR particular gun pellet ‘A’ shoots better than pellet
‘B’. So, ALWAYS test a number of pellets. ALWAYS keep an eye out for new
introductions, ALWAYS keep an open mind as to what the future may bring,
and ALWAYS remember that YOUR gun is really unique. It is up to YOU to
discover what is BEST for you and your system.
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Controlling Harmonics in a Barrel Hector Medina

blog/controlling-harmonics-in-a-barrel) Spring Piston Champion

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And that is something that is worth noting.

Keep well and shoot straight!

Converting a spring powered D34 into an N-Tec rifle

UUufff! That was a mouthful!

Anyway, let's start at the beginning:

To the victor go the spoils.

And there are no lessons learned in a purchase.

The N-Tec assembly is composed of 4 parts:

But all other dimensions are identical. Seal is the same.

Lever engagement and spacing are also identical.

At the bottom of its excursion, the piston aligns well.

The complete piston travel is also the same.

The receiver being milled.

Keep well and shoot straight!

A detailed look into how effective are ZR Mounts in

And this is the operative word: Float.

Let's take a second first to think about what a recoil is.

And that was the start of it! LOL!

So I gathered all the necessary equipment:

A close up of the rings and the scope:

The scope in question is a Sightron Benchrest 36X42 (http://info.sightron.com/Riflescopes/SII-

I degreased ALL mating surfaces with Lacquer Thinner:

Set my FAT wrench to the 10 in-lbs value planned:

And set the BASE screws to that torque:

Again, FOLLOW the Zig-Zag pattern!

And then I proceeded to shoot.

After the first 10 shots, nothing had moved.

After the first 50 shots, nothing had moved.

As you can see, NOTHING MOVED.

Keep well and shoot straight!

What links airgunners to the Chinese warriors of the 13th

And yet, it is true.

But, we digress, let's come back to the airgun world.

Let's look now at the Rekord trigger:

The TX-200 trigger is almost identical:

Enter the T-06 trigger:

The T-06 is a "gunsmith's trigger".

Let's look at a simpler diagram:

Keep well and shoot straight!

At the Moment of Firing and Fit of pellet to the rifling

INTRODUCTION.- One of the most misunderstood aspects of airgunning is

designs as we used to: Pope, Forsyth, Alex Henry, Segmental, Obermeyer,

A completely blown up pellet

What we can do with this information.-

If you ever get interested in designing a rifling.-

And in addition to the seven dimensions hereabove noted, you need to

Keep well and shoot straight!

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