WAVE DATA ANALYSIS AND STATISTICS

Wave data are transmitted from the Waverider buoy to a shore station where it is processed to
produce wave data statistics. The recorded bursts of wave data (normally 34 minutes long
starting on the hour) are digitised at 0.5-second intervals (or 0.78-second for Directional
Waverider buoys) and the data are conditioned to remove any erroneous data points. The
data are then analysed by two procedures, zero crossing analysis and spectral analysis.

ZERO CROSSING ANALYSIS

A widely accepted method to extract representative statistics from the raw wave data is the
zero crossing method. For this method, a ‘wave’ is defined as the portion of a record between
two successive zero up crossings.

Zero Crossing Wave

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From the recorded bursts of wave data the waves are ranked in order of their height (with their
corresponding periods), and the following statistics computed:

Hsig : Significant wave height = average height of the waves which comprise the top
33%
H10 : Average height of the waves, which comprise the top 10%
Hmax : Maximum wave height in the recorded burst
Hrms : Root mean square wave height
Hmean : Mean wave height
Tz : Zero crossing period = mean period
Tsig : Significant period = average period of the waves used to define Hsig
Tc : Crest period = average time between successive crests (this involves a
different definition of a wave)

SPECTRAL ANALYSIS

One of the limitations of the zero crossing method, however, is the poor definition of wave
period. For example, a swell with a dominant period of 10 seconds will suffer a reduction in Tz
with a superimposed locally generated sea. Both cases may, however, have a similar effect
on a coastal structure. Further, the response of a structure, harbour or beach may be strongly
dependent on wave period. In these cases an analysis that accounts for all components of
wave period should be used.

The spectral analysis procedure is more complex than the zero crossing analysis and a
detailed explanation is beyond the scope of these notes. However, put simply, spectral
analysis provides a method to examine the energy level of a range of wave periods. Using
spectral analysis it is therefore possible to determine the period of the waves with the most
energy. This statistic, known as TP1, provides a more representative wave period for ocean
waves than the zero crossing analysis.

WAVE DIRECTION

The offshore wave direction greatly influences the exposure of a beach, harbour or coastal
structure to wave activity. Wave direction is therefore an important parameter in most coastal
zone studies.

Directional Waverider buoys are used to collect wave direction information. The buoy utilises
accelerometers and a compass to measure both vertical and horizontal motion. An onboard
processor converts the buoy’s motion to three orthogonal (vertical, north-south, east-west)
translation signals that are telemetered to a shore station. The directional spectrum is also
routinely calculated by the buoy and also transmitted to the receiving station for processing.

The NSW Waverider buoy network now utilises Directional Waverider buoys at all seven
offshore wave monitoring stations.

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USE OF ANALYSED WAVE STATISTICS

The analysed wave statistics define the wave conditions at the Waverider buoy site. The
height and direction of waves propagating from the Waverider buoy location to the shoreline
are altered due to refraction, diffraction, shoaling, attenuation due to seabed friction losses and
wave breaking. Wave statistics therefore can only provide an indication of wave conditions at
locations other than the Waverider buoy site. Further, within protected waters such as bays
and harbours there is often no relationship with offshore wave conditions due to the sheltering
effects of headlands and reefs and the influence of locally generated wind waves.

Often users of wave data are interested in the ocean swell height and period. The wave
statistics which best define the swell are the Significant Wave Height (Hsig) and Peak Spectral
Period (TP1). It is important to note that the Hsig represents an average of many wave heights
recorded during a sampling period. The individual Maximum Wave Height (Hmax) recorded
during the same sampling period may be up to twice the height of the calculated Hsig.

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