PAITHANI

Manufacturing Process

Dyeing:

1. The kali/vakhar is brought from Bangalore which is a bundle of silk threads ultimately known as
one thok. The weavers of Yeola themselves dye the yarn.
2. The raw material is dipped in hot water diluted in kharv (salt), for 15 min.
3. The material is then squeezed by putting a rod in between the kali to remove the excess of
impurities and again deep in cold water for about 2-3min.
4. The dye bath is prepared in which the proportion varies according to the hues and shapes.
5. Vat dyes and acid dyes are used because of their favourable properties. The government
provides a shade card of 400 plus samples, which acts as a collection for the buyer to choose
from.
6. Bleaching and dyeing is done in copper vessels. 20 to 30 grams of dye powder is used per kg of
yarn, which is mixed in water. Acid is used for fixation. Coconut oil is used to give a soft finish to
silk. The yarn are dipped in the dye bath for 30 to 40 min. using copper rods. It is then removed,
washed a few times in water and then squeezed. The yarn is dried in the shade.

image
7. The kali is dipped in the dye bath, removed, and dried completely. This is repeated 2 to 3 times.
8. It is then washed in cold water to make it much smoother and lustrous.
9. After the dyeing process is completed, the silk threads are wounded upon the Asari with a very
smooth touch which is done by the women. A Rahat was also used for wounding but since it was
very much time consuming, they started using machines made up of a cycle wheel which is less
time consuming.
10. From the asari, the silk threads are transferred on a kandi.
11. The silk threads are finally set onto the loom.

Traditional Colours:

The dominant traditional colours of vegetable dyes included.

 Pophati-Yellow
 Red
 Lavender
 Purple
 Neeligunji-sky blue
 Magenta
 Motiya-Peach pink
 Brinjal-Purple
 Pearl pink
 Peacock-blue/green
 Yellowish green
  Kusumbi-violet red
 Pasila-red and green
 Gujri-black and white
 Mirani-black and red

Loom

It takes approximately one day to set the silk threads on the loom.

“Tansal” is used to put the “wagi”.

The “pavda” works like the paddle to speed up the weaving.

The “jhatka” is used to push the “kandi” from one side to the other.

“Pushthe” is used in designing the border of Paithani in which it is punched according to design
application.

“Pagey” are tied to the loom. The threads are then passed through “fani”.

There are two types of motion:

Primary Motion:

1. Shedding
Dividing the warp sheet or shed into two layers, one above the other for the passage of shuttle
with the weft threads.

2. Picking
Passing a pick of weft from one selvage of cloth through the warp threads.

3. Beating
Dividing the last pick through the fell of cloth with the help of slay fixed to the reel.

Secondary Motion:

1. Take up Motion
Taking up the cloth when being woven and winding it on the roller.

2. Let off Motion

Letting the warp wound on a warp beam, when the cloth is taken up on the cloth roller beam.

Taking up and letting off the warp are done simultaneously.

Material used

1. Silk Yarn
2. Color Dyes

Dyer Yarn Availability:

 The silk yarn though imported from Bangalore-Karnataka, is locally made available in various
store across the town.

Also the number of vendors/dealers keep in touch with the weavers for providing yarn from
time to time. Also zari which is imported from Surat is made available easily in similar way through
vendors and stores.

The town consist of 3 to 4 Dyers who dye the yarns according to the requirement of the
weavers. Generslly yarn for 10 saris is dyed in one colour at one time.

Image dye yarn

Silk Yarn:

Filiature silk is used for wrap and Cidalgatta silk is used for weft. Filiature silk is soft and fine, For
warp, 18/20 denier high twist 2 ply yarns are used.

One is low quality Charakha silk which consist of broken length of silk yarn spun together to
form a yarn. This is widely used despite being dull and uneven, since it is cheap. The medium quality silk
is the Bangalore Cidalgatta silk, which is of fine quality, thin, shear, shiny, smooth and even. The highest
quality silk is the one imported from China, which is superior in quality to these, but very expensive to
use.

IMAGE silk yarn used in paithani weaving.

Zari Yarn:

There are 3 types of Zari threads available.

1. Real Zari:
It consist of some amount of silver in it.
2. Tested Zari:
It is made in copper base.
3. Half fine Zari:
It is the lowest quality if zari. Three to six ply zari is used in Paithani weaving.

All this material is either procured with the help of artisans who are experts in making this material and
it is made available locally or is procured through dealers and vendors who visit and keep in to touch
with weavers from time to time.

Raw Material used in making of Paithani Saree:

Mainly raw material used for Paithani is Silk yarn, Zari and colours. Preferably Filiature silk is
used as warp and Sidlaghatta or Charakha silk is used as weft. Another major raw used in production of
Paithani Silk sari is Zari.
 In olden days the zari was drawn for pure gold, but today silver is replaced for gold, thus making
the Paithani more affordable to medium class. Three types of zari is mostly used for border, butti and
Pallov.

Colors Used in making of Paithani Saree:

Paithani comes in various colors. Some are pure and some resulting from the blending of yarns
of different colors in the weave. Usually the dominant colors in the border and Pallov is different from
that of body.

The local name of Paithani colors are aboli (peach-pink), Firozi (White-red pale green), Gujri
(black white blend), kaali chandrakala, Mirani (black red blend), Morphakhi (Green-Blue-blend), Motia
(Pale pink) and Neeligunji (Blue), Pasila (red-pink green blend), Pophali (yellow), Samprus (aubegine
purple). The darker shades of tones of red, green, blue, yellow are more popular.

Unique Features and Dimensions of Paithani Sari:

A typical Paithani is heavy weight, bright colors, butti with pallov and solid zari border. Each
Paithani is woven to a standard size of 6⅟4 yard which also includes ⅟4 yard blousevpiece. One Paithani
consumes about 500-575 gms of silk and 200-250 gms of zari.

A finished Paithani depending upon its type may weight from 600-750 gms. The width of border
ranges from 7 to 9 inch. Borders are named after the motifs used in them or the name of the village
where they originates from, e.g. Asavalikath, Narlikath, Pankhakath. The Pallov is either single pallov of
18 inch or double pallov of 36 inch width.

Motifs Used in Paithani Sari:

The oldest traditional Paithani designs are Vine and Flowers (Asavali) and Squarish motifs (the
akruti). Some other traditional design are the Petal form (kalas), the fan (Pankha), Cocunut (Narali) and
cotton bud (Rui phul). Some of the motifs that where inspire by the Mughul influence were the
Humaparindas, the bangdimor (peacock in a bangle), the Tota-Miana (parrots), the Anarvel
(pomegranate flower) and the Behesti Parinda (the bird of paradise). The motifs which are still popular
are the Drakshavel (Vine and Grapes), the Kuyri (the paisleys).

Machine photo with description:

Model 450MS 500MS 600MS

Power Supply 1P-220V 1P-220V 1P-220V
Rated Current 18A 19A 20A
Rated 3.8kw 4kw 4.4kw

Output/Heater:

Rated output/motor 31w 33w 35w

Maximum Pressure 1.5kg 1.5kg 1.5kg
Fusing width 450mm 500mm 600mm
 Maximum 200C 200C 200C
Temperature
Heating time 5-20ssec 5-20sec 5-20sec

Raw Material 400000.00

Machine 1750000.00

Furniture 125000.00

Utility 60000.00

Other expenses 12000.00

Total cost of project 2347000.00