I.

INTRODUCTION

Export houses carry out most of the export-related activities overseas, via their own agents and
distributors who are in place in the country where the product is being exported. In most cases,
Export houses are used by manufacturers when the manufacturers do not want their own export
team in place, or when having an in-house team is much more costlier rather then hiring
someone from outside – such as an export house. Because of the very nature of this business,
export houses are specially focused on the export market and know the ins and outs of this
industry very well. This is why, in many cases, export houses are preferred over in-house export
teams.

The following are 6 major functions which export houses are expected to carry out in the market.

1) Representation

The first function is to represent the parent manufacturing company in the market where the
product is being exported. In overseas market, the manufacturing company might not have any
sales presence or market presence. The export house takes care of all that via representing itself
as the main contact point for the manufacturer.

2) Competitive and market intelligence

An export house not only carries out sales work or representations for the manufacturer,
gathering market intelligence, competitive intelligence and the work of other competitors in the
market is also a task carried out by the export house. This flow of information happens naturally
via agents or distributors to the export house. However, it is important that the flow of
information also reaches the manufacturer so that he is able to make decisions and change
strategies as per the market.

3) Procedures and documentation

In the export business, there are many procedures and documentation involved. Export is the
interaction point of 2 different countries with 2 different laws and procedures. As a result, both
laws and both procedures have to be followed by exports. In fact, more then focus on export,
many exporters complain that their core focus is on documentation so that the export is not
rejected or any problems do not arise in the target country.

Also, export happens in large containers and the volume is huge. Thus, any export house which
is improper with its document handling or procedure handling will not receive many orders from
manufacturers.

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4) Market penetration

In sectors like Pharmaceuticals and chemicals, export houses are chosen on the basis of their
market penetration in the target country. Each export house has a setup of agents and
distributors. The more the market coverage of an export house, the more will be the market
penetration. Hence, ensuring that they are present widely in the target country is a service which
has to be provided by the export house.

5) Manpower for Order management

Collecting orders, ensuring the papers are in place, arranging finance or taking care of credit,
shipping, docking and undocking, labour and law issues – There are many things which take
place in a single order when export is ordered. It runs like a well oiled machine and for this you
require huge manpower. This manpower is provided by the export house in each stage of the
export.

6) Arbitration, Finance and credit

There are a few types of payments and handling which are used in export. In handling, One is
FOB origin means seller is liable only till material is shipped. FOB destination means seller is
liable till buyer receives the goods. In such cases, there is huge financial implications,
arbitrations and credit terms involved. Such risks are borne by the Export houses in many cases

Departments

Fabric department

Washing and Dyeing department

Fabric checking department

Cutting department

Stitching department

Finishing and Packaging department

Production planning and control department

Fig1: Departments in an Export House

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ORDER DETAILS:
The order details which have been given in prior are:

ORDER DETAILS
Buyer Ny, Usa
Order Date 01-10-2018
Supplier Bengaluru, India
Product Style Half Sleeve Shirt
Fabric Power Loom, Yarn Dyed
Pattern Checks
Peak Productivity Per Line 500
Wash Softener Wash
Order Quantity 1,00,000
Shipment Date 31-03-2019
TABLE1: Order Details

PRINCIPAL ASSUMPTIONS:
A couple of assumptions which have been made are:

Fabric consumption per

unit 1.9 metres
Fabric cost per unit Rs.100/-
Fabric composition 43% poly, 57% cotton
Pattern checks
GSM 107
Fabric width 60 inches
Fabric sourcing lead time 45 days
Trims sourching lead time 30 days
1:1:2:2:1
Size set (S,M,L,XL,XXL)
Production time 40 days
No of pieces 100000
Production per day 2500
Line efficiency 500 per day
No of sewing lines 5
No of operators per sewing
line 25
Table2: Assumptions about Order

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 II. SHIRT SPEC SHEET
A garment specification sheet or spec sheet is a technical document that contains the construction
details of the product, a technical diagram/ sketch of the garment and the measurements of a
product. Specification sheets are the blueprint of a product, sometimes referred to as the
technical pack or tech pack, and should be as comprehensive as possible. Garments specification
sheet is an important document for manufacturing any garments. The main objects of providing
garments spec sheet to the manufacturer is to facilitate the whole processes of garments
manufacturing. It is provided by the buyer to the garment merchandisers at the beginning of a
garment export order and are normally receive garments specification sheet in soft copy (PDF
file) from the buyer.

TABLE3: Spec Sheet

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Placement of Trims
MAIN STYLE CARE TAPE TAPE SNAP
LABEL LABEL LABEL BUTTON

Size : 2 3⁄4” X Size : 3⁄4” X 3 Size : 3⁄4” X Size : 1⁄4” X 1 Size : 3/8” Size :
2” 1⁄2” 1 1⁄4” X 18
16 3⁄4” lignes
Position: Position: Position: Position: Position: Position:
3⁄4” below 1 3/8” above 5 3⁄4” Middle of Along the Second
centre back hem on right above hem collar band neckline on Button on
neck front placket inside right collar band centre
front front
placket

Fabric Details
TYPE MATERIAL WEAVE DESIGN COLOR

Shell fabric Plain Checked Green & White

Under collar band Cotton Solid White

Yoke patch Cotton Solid White

Thread Details
TYPE MATERIAL COLOR
Main thread Cotton Black

Second thread Cotton White

Second thread Cotton Brown

Button Details
TYPE MATERIAL COLOUR LIGNES
4 Hole sew- Plastic Transparent with 20
through button white base

Other trims details

Type Material Color Measurement

Tape Red and white 1 1⁄4”x 1⁄4”
Tape Brown, red and black 16 3/4”x 3/8”

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COST SHEET

The cost sheet for the order is as follows:

Table4: Cost Sheet

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 III. TIME AND ACTION PLAN

The time and action plan (TNA or T&A Plan) is an important tool for a merchandiser to enlist
his day-to-day activities or to enlist the different operations involved in the process of
completing an order. TNA is most important activity for timely shipment. T&A calendar / plan
helps the merchandiser to analyze every individual operation with the aspect of, when to start?
When to end? Is the process according to the plan? Or is there any deviation with the activity? In
short, a time and action calendar defines the ideal date/time period within which the major
activities of an order should occur against a scheduled delivery. In general, the
merchandisers will develop list of activities need to be performed for an order in a spreadsheet in
a column, the expected date of completion on next column and the actual completion date.

However, this time and action plan is not simply a data entering process; it is also about
scientifically working out the activity duration, logically determining the preceding and
succeeding activities. The main purpose of time and action plan is to cross check the each
activity related to a particular order in frequent interval. After the preparation of TNA
calendar, merchandiser can list down their daily “to-do-list” and taking it one by one. As per
TNA schedule processes can be executed on timely basis to track whether an order is on track or
it will get delayed

Details required in the making of a time and action plan:

 Extensive process flow of an order from the sampling to dispatch with tasks to be
performed on each activity
 Detailed production capacity of various departments of their unit. In some cases, the
merchandiser needs to know their vendor’s production capacity also
 Tentative lead time details of various raw material and buffer time required for each
department
 Style complication in each department level, both in technical aspects and also in terms
of throughput time of different departments
 Duration of transportation, shipment and logistic facility for the particular customer and
exact delivery date to the customer
 Availability of the special machines / technology and their possible influences
 Details regarding the local and national level holidays – in his/ her company and also
holiday information about customers / vendors, from where the raw material imported or
to whom the products need to be delivered
 Complication associated with the trims and accessories sourcing and manufacturing
 Government and political policies of concerned countries
 Response time of customer / buyer at various stages.

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The below time and action calendar has been prepared after careful consideration of the order
details, lead time for various processes and shipping date.

Table5 : Time and Action Calendar

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Factors to be considered while making Time and action Plan:
Some important factors to be considered are as follows:

 Production capacity of plant

 Style type of merchandise
 Festivals of manufacturing country
 Holidays
 Shipment details
 Festivals of country from where raw material is imported
 Logistics facilities
 Lead time estimated by buyer
 Style complications
 Fabric and trims manufacturing complications
 Buffer required from each department
 Political stability of the country
 Flexibility of freight forwarder
 Response time from buyer at different stages
 Lead times of various activities like L/C payment, custom clearance, etc.
 Cut-off dates for shipments

Benefits of Time & Action Calendar for merchandiser:

 It helps a smart merchandiser to make out the critical tasks in an industry.
 It enhances productivity as a result, also improve a company profits.
 It is an essential element for a smooth shipment order.
 It is essential for timely shipment an export order
 It is useful to know the status of the order processing at different level in
the apparel industry.
 It helps proper the execution process of export order.
 It provides the idea about the position of running order.
 It helps to optimize the factory inventory.
 It gives the apparent plan about the Export order.
 It improves efficiency due to proper time schedule.
 It enhances the factory inventory management.

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 IV. FABRIC SAMPLING PROCESS
In the apparel supply chain, apparel buyers need to ensure that the products they are sourcing
from their supplier across the world meet their designs, construction, material quality and fit
requirement. To ensure the finished product quality, buyers keep in close contact with their
suppliers and in every stage from sampling to shipment they inspect the garment for a given
order

Major types of samples needed for completing a garment order are:

 Proto sample,
 Fit sample,
 Size set sample,
 Salesman sample (SMS),
 Pre-production sample (PPS),
 Top over production sample (TOP),
 Shipment sample.

All the above garments samples are discussed below:

1. Proto sample:
It is the very first sample given into the buyer. It is prepared according to the buyer’s
specification. It is a trial sample prepared on product development department. Buyer wants to
see here that how its look likes after applying new design on it. Any types of fabric and color can
be used here. For this type of sample, 2-3pcs garments should be made where 1pc for
manufacturer and rest of those are sent to the buyer for correction.

2. Fit sample:
After approving proto sample, fit sample should be made by following buyer provided
measurement sheet. It can be made by using similar fabric, nearer GSM and any color. In Fit
sample, stitching and measurement must be 100% accurate. Here fabrication and color can be
changed but no compromise on stitching and measurement. 2-3 garments are used in fit sample
where 1pc kept by the manufacturer and rest of those are sent to the buyer.

3. Size set sample:

After approving fit sample, based on the patterns of approved sample, all the other sizes samples
should be graded here and make pattern for different sizes. After that, make 2-3pcs sample for
each size of that order. Manufacturer keeps 1pc sample for him and send 1pc or 2pc samples to
the buyer for cutting approval. Here, it should be noted that, without the size set sample
approval, cutting should not be started.

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5. Salesman sample (SMS):
Salesman sample is used by sales team of buyer to enhance the sales of any garment. Buyer
sends the sample by salesman in the market to receive market feedback from the customers. It is
done approximately 200-500pcs depending on the customers and season. The main objects of
SMS sample are to check market, feedback, Buyer’s design etc.

6. Pre-production sample (PPS):

P.P sample should be made in actual production line by maintaining all actual of an order
specification. It is the main stage of a garments order where any sample may be approved or
rejected. PP sample approval means that the supplier can go ahead with production. But if
rejected then there will be the revision of previous processes. PPC (Planning production and
control) department is also involved in this stage

7. Top of production sample (TOP):

During running an order in production line, a few samples sent to the buyer or buyers Q, C as
TOP sample. TOP sample has a great importance in achieving certification of whole order. If
TOP sample failed to approve its required quality then whole order will be resumed.

8. Shipment sample:
Shipment sample is needed after completing final inspection, when goods are ready for the
shipment. It is a sample that reflects what buyers will receive down to Q.C, folding, tagging,
bagging, labeling and final packaging included.

SAMPLING PLAN
PLANNED
S.NO ACTIVITY DATE
1 Proto Sample Submission 10/10/2018
2 Proto Sample Approval 17/10/2018
3 Fit sample Submission 1/11/2018
4 Fit sample Approval 9/11/2018
5 Salesman sample submission 10/11/2018
6 Salesman sample Approval 17/11/2018
7 Size set sample submission 10/1/2019
8 Size set sample Approval 17/1/2019
9 Pre Production Sample Submission 27/1/2019
10 Pre Production Sample Approval 5/2/2019
Top of Production Sample
11 Submission 25/2/2019
12 Top of Production sample Approval 5/3/2019
13 Shipment sample submission 30/3/2019

Table 6: Sampling Plan

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 V. FABRIC SOURCING
Sourcing is basically determining the most cost efficient vendor of materials, production, or
finished goods at the specified quality and service level. It is closely associated and an important
part of apparel merchandiser’s responsibility. Materials basically include piece goods that will be
cut and converted into the garments. Not only does the fabric have to be appropriate and suited to
the garment design and end use but it must also be made available at the precise time when it is
needed. Thus, lead times play an important role in the sourcing and placing orders for the
materials required for the production. Lead times required from a supplier can vary from as little
as two weeks to as much as nine months.Fabric sourcing department is basically engaged in
determining how and where its merchandise i.e. fabric will be obtained within the scheduled time
and cost. A sourcing manager must have knowledge about all varieties of fabrics and trims in
order to execute their functions effectively. The different parameters in sourcing i.e. lead time,
process of fabric and trim approvals, cost of logistics and incoterms need to keep in mind while
deciding the sourcing tactics for particular export order.

Fabric details required for sourcing

 Fabric design (desk-loom)
 Fabric swatch(if provided by buyer)
 Lab-dip/colour standard
 GSM (Gauge in case of knitted)
 Yarn count
 Cuttable fabric width
 EPI/PPI
 Fabric finish
 Requirements of dyes and finishing chemicals
 Unit of measurement i.e. meter/ yard for woven and KG for knitted
 Order quantity
 Shrinkage tolerance
 Fastness properties

Factors affecting sourcing of fabrics and trims

Lead time:
Fabric and trim sourcing is very time consuming process which includes desk loom and lab-dip
approvals, trim and art work approval, FPT approval.

Logistics:
Logistics is one of the main factors which affects the fabric sourcing drastically. There are
several aspects those are

1. Time required for transportation

2. Infrastructure for logistics

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 3. Cost of logistics

Merchandiser needs to keep in mind these factors while placing the order for fabric.

Quality parameters:
The demand for high-quality low-cost fabric/trims coupled with the need to reduce costs to
increase operating profits is driving more companies to outsource manufacturing overseas.

Sourcing costs:
The sourcing cost depends upon following factors

 Labour wages
 Manufacturing cost
 Cost of logistics/transportation

Minimum Order Quantity (MOQ):

This is the important factor that affects the sourcing. For sourcing of fabric and trims there is
always a MOQ for which directly affects the cost. Every supplier requires a certain MOQ to
produce the fabric and trim economically; otherwise the cost of running the production is higher
if production is below MOQ.

SOURCING PLAN
PLANNED
S NO ACTIVITY DATE
1 Request fabric sample 19/10/2018
2 Sample fabric in store 29/10/2018

3 Lab Dip sent for approval 20/11/2018

4 Lab Dip approved 27/11/2018

5 P.O for fabric 28/11/2018
6 Fabric in House 8/1/2019
FABRIC SOURCING REQUIREMENTS
per unit total(1 lakh units)
Fabric Required 1.9 m 1,90,000 m
Lead Time 40 days

Table7 : Fabric Sourcing Requirements and Plan

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 VI. TRIMS AND ACCESSORIES
To make complete garment different types of auxiliary materials are used. These auxiliary
materials are called trims and accessories. Garment trims and accessories are very important to
make garments aesthetic, functional and commercially acceptance.

Garment trims
Trims are attached with the body of garments by sewing. These materials are used in sewing
room with fabric. Trims are directly attached with garments. These are used for functional
purposes.

List of Trimmings Required for Making a Shirt:

 Sewing thread,
 Button,
 Lining,
 Interlining
 Motif,
 Label i.e. main label, care label, size label, price label and composition label.

Garment accessories
Accessories are not directly attached with garment by sewing. These are used to make a garment
attractive for sale and packing. In a word, accessories are used for decorative purposes.

List of Accessories Required for Making a Shirt:

 Neck board,
 Back board,
 Plastic collar insert,
 Hang tag,
 Ball head pin,
 Tissue paper,
 Poly bag
 Carton
 Carton sticker,
 Safety sticker,
 String,
 Hanger,
 Butterfly,
 Collar stay,
 Price ticket,

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 TRIMS SOURCING PLAN

S.NO ACTIVITY PLANNED DATE

1 Request Sample of Trims and Accessories 19/10/2018

2 Sample trims in store 29/10/2018
3 Trim card sent for approval 20/11/2018
4 Trims Approved 27/11/2018
5 P.O. for Trims 28/11/2018
6 Trims in House 8/1/2019

Table8: Trims & accessories sourcing plan

VII. FABRIC SPREADING

This is a preparatory operation for cutting and consists of laying plies of cloth one on top of the
other in a predetermined direction and relationship between the right and wrong sides of the
cloth. The composition of each spread i.e. the number of plies of each color is obtained from the
cut order plan.The lay order slip provides all relevant details to the spreader for the lay i.e. style,
fabric width, no. of plies, marker way, consumption for that lay etc. The spreader has to follow
the lay-order slip for considerations during spreading & if she founds any deviations in the
actual, it should be reported to the cutting executive.

Number of plies depends on:

1.Capacity of the cutting machine

2.Volume of production
3.Type of fabric itself (rough or slippery)
4.Thickness of fabric

Spreading labour cost:

Labour cost is determined by the following formula:

Labour cost per hour x Spreading time

Spreading labour cost = ------------------------------------------------------------
Garments/marker

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Types of Fabric Spreading:
The spreads can be of two basic types:
1. Flat spreads- all plies are of the same length.
2. Stepped spreads- this as the name suggests, is built up in steps, with all the plies in one step
having the same length

Requirements of Spreading Process:

The requirements for spreading process are as follows,
1. Alignment of plies in both length and width direction- length and width of fabric must be at
least equal to marker length and width.
2. Elimination of fabric defects/flaws- any faults identified on the incoming fabrics will be
tagged and will be avoided.
3. Correct ply direction (especially for asymmetrically printed fabrics)- all faces up, all faces
down, face to face etc.
4. Correct ply tension- ply tension must be uniform and as much less as possible.
5. Avoidance of distortion in the spread during cutting- polythene sheets are used under the
bottom ply to resist friction of the bottom ply with the base plate of the knife.
6. Fabrics must be flat and free from any crinkle & crease- these cause defect in garments due to
variation in dimension.
7. Checks and stripes should be matched.

Manual Spreading Process:

During manual spreading two workers move the fabric plies over the spreading table, ensuring
the correct placement of each ply. As they do so, they look for faults in the fabric and make the
decision to leave them or cut them out. They also count the plies required and cut the fabric at
the end of the spread. If the fabric has an intricate pattern, they ensure the pattern matches in all
the fabric plies in the spread

Semi-automated spreading Process:

The operator smoothens the surface of the lay, identifies faults in the spread fabric and decides
whether to leave faults in the spread or to cut them out. The operator uses a manually operated
speed control handle to change the spreading speed and to reduce the speed in problematic areas,
or even to stop the spreading process if it is necessary to define the location of a fault and to cut
it out

Fully automated spreading Process:

The fully automated spreading process is used for high quality materials which are easily spread.
An operator sets the necessary parameters (the length of the lay, the spreading speed, the fabric
tension, etc.). The spreading machine automatically performs the following operations: lays the
fabric in the required length of the spread, cuts the material at the end of every ply, counts the
number of plies and stops after laying the required number of plies

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 VIII. FABRIC MARKER MAKING

Marker:
It is an illustration of accurate and precise planning of patterns for a particular style of garment
and the sizes to be cut from a single spread on a marker paper. To prepare an efficient marker,
the width of the fabric to be spread in a lay as well as the number of pattern pieces to be included
in the marker plan for all the required sizes should be known prior to it. Marker width that is less
than fabric width leads to more fabric wastage while marker width that is wider than fabric
results in incomplete cut components. The individual marker has to be prepared for linings and
interfacing materials.

Marker Making Modes:

Generally, markers are made in several modes. The direction of the nap on the fabric is used to
define the mode of spreading.

 Nap/One/Way marker:
The Nap/One/Way marker (N/O/W) is produced with every pattern placed in the ‘down’
direction of the pattern in the identical direction. This kind of mode is required for
asymmetric fabrics.

 Nap/Either/Way marker:
When there is no restriction of orientation of pattern placement this kind of marker could
be used. The patterns could be placed in ‘up’ or ‘down’ direction but as parallel to the
fabric grain. It is the most efficient marker yielding the highest fabric utilization.

 Nap/Up/and Down marker:

The Nap/Up/and down marker (N/U/D) is more effective than the Nap/One/Way marker;
however, it is not as efficient as the Nap/Either/Way. In order to get a better fit between
the patterns, alternating sizes of patterns are oriented in opposite directions.

Marker Planning:
Marker making is the process of finding out the most proficient arrangement of pattern pieces for
a particular garment style, fabric and range of sizes. This process requires skill, time and
concentration to get the maximum efficiency. The process of marker making can be explained in
two aspects:

Marker planning: It is the placement of patterns in a paper to meet the technical requirements
as well to minimize wastage of fabric.

Marker production/marker utilization: This involves drawing of a marker plan directly on

fabric or creating it on a paper marker, or copying information related to the pattern piece on the
fabric without drawing any pattern lines over it as in computerized cutting.

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Methods Of Marker Planning

Manual marker planning:

It is the conventional marker planning method and is still used by the garment industries where
they make single garment markers. The marker planner works easily by moving around the full-
size patterns until an acceptable marker plan is obtained. Multiple copies of the marker are
usually required, which can be done by reproducing the master marker with a range of
duplicating methods.

Computerized marker planning:

This method is generally a part of an integrated system that comprises digitizing of full-size
patterns into the computer, conveniences for pattern alteration, and by inputting suitable grading
rules to create all the required sizes. The various components involved are visual display unit
with keyboard, tablet, data pen and mouse

IX. FABRIC CUTTING

The main purpose of cutting section involves cutting of garment panels precisely, consistent with
the pattern shape and size as well as economically and in a necessary volume to keep the sewing
department supplied with work.

Process flow chart in cutting section

Marker making

Fabric spreading

Placing marker paper on the lay

100% inspection of parts and replacement of

parts if needed

Numbering

Fabric cutting

sorting and bundling

Input to sewing department

Fig2: Cutting Room Flowchart

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The four main operations or processes involved in the cutting section are:
Marker planning
Fabric spreading
Fabric cutting
Preparation for the assembling process
.

Table9: Cut order Plan Format

Fabric Cutting Process:

Cutting is the process of separating a spread into garment components as a replica of pattern
pieces on a marker. It also involves transferring marks and notches from the marker to garment
components to facilitate sewing. The cutting process is frequently done in two stages: rough
cutting and the final accurate cutting.

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Objectives of cutting:
The main purpose of cutting is to separate fabric plies as replicas of the patterns in the marker
plan. In attaining this objective, certain requirements must be fulfilled.

Accuracy of cut:
The garment components have to be cut accurately and precisely as per the shape of the pattern
to facilitate assembling process and for better fitting of garments. The effortlessness in achieving
this accuracy is based on the cutting method engaged and on the marker.

Clean edges:
The fabric edges after cutting should not show fraying or snagging. These defects are due to an
imperfectly sharpened knife, which could result in heat generation due to friction with fabric
which leads to fabric damage. The heat generation during cutting with knives could be reduced
by means of using sharpened knife blades, serrated or wavy edge knife, utilisation of anti-fusion
paper between fabric, spraying of lubricant over the blades and reducing the lay height and
blade.

Consistent cutting:
Based on the method of cutting employed, the lay height will vary. To get a consistent quality of
cutting, the lay height should be as low as possible without affecting the production planning and
quality of cutting.

Working procedure in fabric cutting section

1. By following production planning at first sample is collected from the sample section
with pattern and garments approved.
2. Lay order sheet/ratio sheet fill up by cutting section
3. Item, fabric width, color, etc.
4. After putting all information in order sheet then send to CAD section for marker making.
Or if it is to do manually than make marker manually.
5. Checking marker after getting a marker.
6. Sending fabric requisition from cutting section to store for cutting according to plan.
7. Receiving fabric in cutting table as per marker and cutting plan.
8. Matching fabric to trim card by merchandiser approved fabric.
9. Then starting layering manually or with the machine.
10. Completing layering then spread marker upon on the fabric.
11. Marker checking by quality people & keep all document of style, size wise report to send
to the store & sewing section.
12. Before cutting attaching clamp and gum tape on the layer.
13. If there is any drill mark in marker then need to drill.
14. Starting cutting by cutter man.
15. Then dividing group and ratio wise.
16. Make bundle chart as per lay order sheet and sending for bundle card printing.
17. Numbering as per bundle chart-wise.

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 18. Panel checking.
19. If there is any fault need to replace cut bundle roll and shade wise then bundle and send
to sewing section.
20. If there is any fusing or embroidery then send for this process.

Different Types of Fabric Cutting Machine:

According to the working process, the cutting machine may be classified in three categories.
Such as-
1) Manual Cutting Machine:
 Hand Operated Scissor

2) Semi-Automatic Cutting Machine:

 Straight knife of Cutting Machine.
 Round Knife Cutting Machine.
 Band Knife Cutting Machine.
 Die Cutting Machine.
 Notcher Machine.
 Drill Machine.
3) Fully Automatic / Computerized Cutting Machine:
 Computer Controlled Knife Cutting Machine.
 Laser Cutting Machine.
 Water Jet Cutting Machine.
 Rib Cutting Machine
 Air jet Cutting Machine.
 Ultrasonic Cutting Machine.
 Plasma Torch Cutting Machine

X. LINE PLANNING
Line planning is scheduling and allocating of orders to production lines according to product
setting (product is being made in the line) and due dates of production completion. A line plan
defines when a style is going to be loaded to the line, how many pieces to be expected (target)
from the line and when order to be completed. For example, please refer to the following Table-
1, where a simple line planning has been shown in spread sheet.
During booking orders or allocating orders to the production line, planners must check what is
running on the line and how many days it will take to complete the running style.
Benefit of Line planning
It helps production manager as well as line supervisor with information such as what is the daily
production target for line. They set their line (machines and manpower) accordingly. Line plan

21
also provides information such as how many days style would run, what is the next style going to
be loaded?
Each line contains a set of machines to make garments for mass production and set of machines
vary depending on product category.

Line plan for the order:

Table10: Line Plan

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 XI. SEWING

Tailors or sewing operators make shirts using sewing machine(s). First, Shirt parts are made.

Parts making: Collar, Cuff, Pockets, Front part, and Sleeves are made separately. Main label
(Brand labels) is attached inside back yoke or collar band during part preparation.

Assembly: Once different parts of a shirt are made, shirt parts are assembled. In assembly
section, wash care label attached to side seam.

In industrial production shirts are made in sewing lines. In a tailoring shop, full shirt is made by
one person. There are various options for setting a sewing line for shirt manufacturing with
different line layout and production method. In assembly line instead of single piece, shirt are
made bundle wise. And most interesting thing is that one operator only sews one operation. 40 to
45 tailors are involved making the complete shirt. Different types of sewing machines are used in
a sewing line to make the shirt with consistency in quality and higher speed.

In Garment Factory: In the small and medium shirt making factories, industrial sewing
machines with latest technology is used to make shirts in large volume (mass production).
Industrial sewing machines are used for getting production per day per person, to get consistency
in quality and workmanship. In another post I have mentioned detailed list of sewing machines
and non-sewing machine used for making shirt in a factory. Also I have mentioned list of
operations to be made by different types of sewing machine.

A list of sewing machines are shown:

 Single Needle Lock Stitch (three different types of SNLS machines are used depending
on operation. Normal lock stitch machine, with under bed trimmer and equipped with
edge cutter)
 Feed off the Arm
 Multi-needle chain stitch machine (e.g. Kansai Special)
 Double needle lock stitch machine
 Button holing machine
 Button Sewing machine

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Sequence of operations for a shirt: (SAM)

Table11: SAM for Shirt sewing

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 XII. WASHING
Objectives of Garment Washing:

1. To remove dirt, dust and waste materials from garments.

2. To remove size materials from garments.
3. To increase the brightness of garments.
4. To increase the smoothness of garments.
5. To change the appearance of garments.
6. To make directly wearable after purchase.
7. To make garments become soft and handy.
8. To remove harmful materials from garments.
9. For garments wash shrinkage occurs, so accurate measurement can be found by customers.
10. Fading effect is varied here by variation of an amount of detergent used, processing time
and processing temperature.

Machines used in washing plant

 Garments washing machine for sample

 Garments washing machine for bulk

 Hydro extractor

 Tumble dryer: a)Gas dryer b)Steam dryer

 Boiler

 Compressor

Flowchart of washing
Garments from store house

Count

Washing

Hydro extractor

Drying

Quality check

Packing

Delivery

Fig3: Flowchart for washing

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Softener
Softeners provide their main effects on the surface of the fibres. Softeners and lubricants are used
to improve handle, drape, cutting, sewing, etc. and to help retain the final hand and touch of the
fabric. Fabric softening is carried out during the final stages of wet processing, usually in the
final wash bath. A wide variety of softeners can be applied to garments; recently the use of
multi-functional silicone softeners has become popular, particularly amino functional
Poly siloxanes in Micro emulsion form .

WASH PLAN
WASH
INPUT CAPACITY
DATE PER DAY
20/3/2019 25,000
21/3/2019 25,000
22/3/2019 25,000
23/3/2019 25,000
TOTAL=
1,00,000
Table12: Wash Plan

Softener Silicon Wash:

For this washing we can use softener and silicon together. To make the surface slippery silicone
is used and softener is used to make the cellulose soft. We can get both hand feel and soft feel at
a time. The softener can be cationic and nonionic.

Recipe:
 Wash Type : Softener Silicone Wash
 Fabric : Twill
 Color : Leo Print
 Quantity : 150 Pcs

Flowchart of Softener SiliconWash

Softener

Hot dry

Cool dry

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Softener
For softening 5 kg Mesoft-CCS Flakes (Cationic) and 500 liter water are used. It is done for 5
minutes at cool temperature.

Hot dry
It is done for 60 minutes at 700C temperature.

Cool dry
It is done for 20 minutes at cool temperature.

Problems of softener silicon wash

 Sometimes garments hand feel is less.
 Sometimes color bleeding may occur.
 Color can also be changed.

Solutions of softener silicon wash

 Before the washing has been completed, hand feel need to be checked.
 We should select the softener according to fabric nature.

XIII. FINISHING

Shirt Finishing
In finishing stage, buttons are attached to collar, cuffs and in front placket. Button holing is done
on these parts. Uncut thread tails are trimmed. Other finishing sub-processes include stain
removing, alteration of defective shirts and pressing. In case washing of shirt is required,
factories wash shirt to give desired hand feel and aesthetic look.

Pressing
Pressing is a finishing process done by a cloth to heat and pressure with or without steam to
remove creases and to impart a flat appearance to the cloth or garments. In garment industries
pressing is also called ironing. After completing pressing the garments have to be folded.
Folding
After completing pressing, the garments are folded with a predetermine area. Garments are
folded according to the buyers direction, requirements in a standard area.

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XIV. GARMENT PACKAGING:
Garment packaging is the process of wrapping, compressing, filling or creating of goods for the
purpose of protection and their appropriate handling. This is the final process in the production
of garments, which prepares the finished merchandise for delivery to the customer

Packaging has two major functions:

The main purpose of distribution packaging is packaging the garment in a way that it allows the
garment manufacturers to transport the garment at a minimum cost and in the shortest time to the
retailer or purchaser, without deteriorating the quality of the product. The merchandising
function deals with showcasing the garment product in a way that it stimulates consumer desire
for purchasing the particular product.

Flowchart of garment packaging

Received garments from the finished section

Iron

Fold

Hang tagging

Folding with inserting back board, tissue

Poly Bagging

Cartooning

Applied adhesive tape on the pack

Bar-coding

Packing complete

Fig4: Packaging Flowchart

Stand-up pack:
This type of packing is commonly used for shirts and hence termed as ‘shirt packing’. For this
type of packing, the garments have to be pressed prior to packing and are packed with additional
packing materials like tissue paper, back support, pins or clips, inner collar patty, outer patty, etc.
The stand-up garment package and the accessories used are shown in Figure

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 Fig5: Standup Packaging

The advantages of the stand-up pack are:

 It
is an attractive pack so it enhances the appeal of the garments to the customer.
 It
is a safer pack as it has inner and outer cartons, therefore the packed garments can be
handled easily.
 On account of its better presentation, it can increase the sales of a product.

The disadvantages of the stand-up pack are:

 It is costlier.
 It needs many packing materials.
 It involves a lot of effort as well as time.
 Unpacking of this kind of package needs more time and once unpacked it is tough to
repack.
 In case it is crushed by any source, creases and wrinkles are formed on the garments
and thus the pressed condition is disturbed.

Carton packaging

After packing, cartoning is done according to apparel size and color. Most used packing types
are given below:

 Solid color Solid size pack

 Solid color Assorted size pack
 Assorted color Solid size pack
 Assort color Assort size pack

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 Table13: Packaging Details

XV. QUALITY AUDIT

With right kind of process we can achieve desired quality production. Buyer quality department
follows below process –

 internal pp meeting
 factory pp meeting
 fabric inspection
 accessories inspection
 pilot production
 in-line inspection
 pre-final inspection
 final inspection for auditing process

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Types of Audits
There are two kinds of audits:
1. Process Audit
2. Product Audit

Process Audit:
Process audit is basically auditing the already set processes. This is to establish that correct
processes are being followed. During audit if any process is missing then corrective action plans
need to be set for continues improvement.

Internal Quality Audit Procedure:

Quality audit has to be done on random selection bases.This is to establish that the production is
matched as per approved standard by the customer. In buyer we do following quality audits:-
 Pilot run inspection
 Inline inspection
 Batch audits
 Pre final
 Final inspection

Objectives of Garments Buyer Technical Audit

1. Ensure the QMS is effectively
2. Audit quality control system
3. Ensure compliance with customer quality standard
4. Ensure customer manufacturing and process control requirement
5. Apply best practice in garments manufacturing.
6. Ensuring effectiveness, efficiency, improvement and customer satisfaction.
7. To get excellence & sustainable results in the long run of customer product quality
and as a supplier.

Types of Technical Audit (TA)

Internal Audit/ 1st Party Audit

Performed by factory internal Auditor assigned by factory management. Internal auditor report
for factory management, management evaluates the report and take corrective action. Here
supplier has a scope of improvement as per customer quality and technical requirement by their
own (internal) audit system.

Customer Audit/ 2nd Party Audit

Performed by customer/ buyer own self, report to their supplier and ask for corrective action,
available scoring or rating system to classify supplier. Customer audit is very important for the
supplier.

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External Audit/ 3rd Party Audit
Third party audit is an external independent audit performed by a party hired or approved by the
customer to verify their process standard and requirement. 3rd party is a contracted organization
work on behalf of the customer, make a report or certify supplier for a certain period.

Technical Audit Categories/Sections for Apparel

1. Factory Warehouse (Incoming Goods Storage)
2. Trims & accessories area
3. Fabric Inspection
4. CAD
5. Cutting
6. Pre-Production
7. Fusing
8. Sewing
9. Finishing
10. Final Inspection
11. Quality Control
12. Packing/ Finished Goods

Technical Audit Criteria for Garments

Factory Warehouse
1. Product identification, Fifo-Lifo, storage items tracking system and inventory
2. Mold prevention system, relative humidity %, and controlling system
3. Trims, accessories and fabrics storage using pallet or rack

Trims and Accessories Inspection

1. Approved trim card for every running style
2. Inspection procedure and lighting
3. Rejected items isolation and keeping an isolated area
4. Third party or supplier internal test report of all Trims and Accessories.
5. Complain against the failed product to the supplier and replace, show documents.

Fabrics Inspection and Procedures

1. Fabrics inspection system, procedure, and Report (Follow 4 point or 10-point system)
2. Shrinkage test accuracy
3. Lightbox for shade evaluation
4. Color evaluation, shade grading as per customer requirement

CAD
1. Pattern Library and E-pattern library
2. Marker calibration, verification (pattern or dies, bundles, direction) and Report
3. Making separate pattern as per shrinkage variation

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Cutting
1. Grainline/notch indication, cut mold, stripe & check matching indication
2. Pattern measurement for verification
3. The process sequence of fabric cutting
4. Fabric relaxation procedure and report documentation
5. Spreading quality control- Table marking –Ends-Leaning-Tension-Narrow Goods-
Remnants-Counts-Ply High-Marker placing-Fabric Flaws
6. Cutting quality control- Miss cut –Rugged Cutting –Notches-Matching Plies and
pattern check
7. Bundling and numbering separation, its accuracy and proper report to sewing
8. Cut panel inspection
9. Preventive Maintenance system and report
10. 5S implementation effort
11. Using all types of personal protective equipment. Cutting safety materials: Hand
gloves, musk,

Sampling and Pre-production

1. Pre- Production meeting for very style and keeping the document
2. Sampling and pattern correction before bulk start

Sewing
1. Proper sewing allowance vs. machines and making before wash measurement spec
2. Needle Control Policy; Sharps tools and Staples control
3. Preventive Maintenance system and report
4. Roaming QC Audit system
5. Overclock machine fabric trimming check, keep guide for maintaining proper seam
allowance
6. Approved trim card and approved sample for each running style
7. In-process quality checkpoint, defects type record, and alteration
8. Mockup (with written instruction) or JQS (job quality standard) for every sewing
operation
9. Checking garments for construction, seam quality, and overall garments appearance.
10. Garments measurement and construction checking comparing with approved sample
and customer provided spec
11. Seam puckering, SPI, stitch tension, needle mark and all others stitching quality
12. Approved lighting condition in all QC checkpoint, the customer required lux and
checking report
13. 5S implementation effort

Fusing
1. Interlining bonding strength, temperature, time and pressure

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Finishing
1. Pull test of snap and shank button and pull tester machine calibration
2. Quality inspection system and report
3. Metal and needle detection in place and effectiveness
4. Garments measurement procedure as per customer requirement
5. Preventive Maintenance system and report
6. Excessive WIP, dumping garments in finishing workplace
7. Approved lighting condition in all QC checkpoint, the customer required lux and
checking report
8. Pressing system. (Temperature, steam, Iron shoe, and head)
9. Show the approved sample or customer provided data for attaching finishing sticker
and folding.
10. Garments AQL Audit
11. 5S implementation effort

Carton Warehouse
1. Carton keeping system
2. Mold prevention system, relative humidity %, and controlling system
3. Packing, inventory and delivery/shipment system
4. Moisture percentage checking in garments
5. Carton weight report, scan and pack system

Final Quality Audit Room

1. Location of Audit room, separated from the production area or not
2. Available necessary for final Audit; approved sample, trim card, inspection table.

XVI. SHIPPING

The mode of transportation is an important consideration when planning the shipment process.
Besides the costs, the urgency of the shipment, the value of the goods being shipped as well as
the size and weight of the goods need to be evaluated when determining the form of
transportation.

SHIPPIING MODES

Ocean

Ocean freight is a less expensive method of shipping goods, but the drawback is a longer transit
time. Another benefit for ocean freight is while size and weight may be an issue for air; it is not
for ocean freight.

There are 2 ways of shipping ocean; FCL(Full Container Load) or LCL (Less Than Container
Load)
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FULL CONTAINER LOAD OCEAN FREIGHT: It is the most efficient way to ship your cargo.
Commonly used container sizes are 20STD, 40STD and 40HC. There are also numerous types of
ocean containers used for international ocean freight transportation, including 45HC. open top,
flat racks etc. Based on your volume and type of product, your logistics partner can suggest what
type of container will be more suitable and cost saving for you.

LESS THAN CONTAINER LOAD OCEAN FREIGHT:It is commonly used if you don’t have
enough cargo to fill a container load. You pay only for the space used in the container. Typically
LCL rate is calculated by volume but not by weight. Always discuss with your logistics partner if
you need LCL or FCL service. There is always a breaking point where LCL or FCL shipment
might be more cost savings for you. Once you ship LCL you share the containers with other
importers and there are more add on costs since the container needs to go CFS (Container Freight
Station) to be split. Shipping the container with a little bit empty space but as FCL might be
cheaper then sharing with others as LCL.

Ocean + Rail :
It is always better to transport cargo to the location that is as close to the ultimate destination as
possible. Sometimes you might need to use a combination of services. Using rail service in
addition to ocean freight service will cost more then using solely ocean freight. Suitable for wide
range of products with long lead times and large volumes. A single, ultra-large container ship
can carry +/-20,000 twenty-foot equivalent units (TEU).Most environmental friendly among all
modes of transport.

Air

It serves markets and supply chains that demand speed. But air freight also has its own
disadvantages such as being one of the most expensive due to the requirement of speed and the
fuel that is used.

It also has its size and weight limitations. Regulatory bodies limit what can and cannot be
transported by air, and as such, oddly shaped or very large items may be more suitable for other
modes of transport. It requires quick transit, less handling of cargo, less documentation, reliable
arrival and departures and enhanced level of security for your cargo

Rail

Trains burn less fuel per ton-mile than road vehicles and a train, which can have as many than
100 wagons, only needs one driver. It is considered as a green option.There are, however, some
additional costs which are incurred in a rail journey: at each end of the rail transit, a road
delivery will be needed, and there will be a lift cost to transfer the container between the train
and the road vehicle. Railroads are the most efficient form of land transportation. One train can
haul the equivalent of over 400 trucks. Reliable transit times and schedules and Fast and cost-
effective deliveries over long distances typically over 500 miles

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Road

Road freight is one of the most common of all modes of transportation. It is widely used in
continents such as Europe, Africa, and North America. The single customs document process
provides a seamless movement of goods even across various states and countries. Complete
door-to-door service and it is one of the more economical means of transport.However, truck
transport is limited somewhat as to what it can carry by the size of the vehicles used and by size
and weight restrictions. Another limitation is that it is affected by weather, road conditions and
traffic.

Shipment Procedure

Final inspection by Q.A

Hand over to forwarder

Forwarder function

 Take approval certificate from buyer

 Send goods from factory to Doc
 Custom clearance

Hand over to freight company

Freight company function

 Send goods from port to final destination

Documents Required For Shipment

1)Certificate of approval

This is sent by the forwarder to the buyer. This certificate of approval is issued with respect to
the submitted sample only.Final inspection of the merchandise is subjected to a separate
inspection and approval thereof

It must include P.O.NO , LC NO and STYLE NO.

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2)Documentation audit certificate

This is approved by buying agent and send to buyer. It shows all required documents, port of
loading, sailing date, document receiving date .This certificates that the buyer has received all
original documents plus three copies from the vendor within three days of vessel sailing date.

3)Delay document demand notice

It shows buyer has not received a complete set of documents from the vendor for the specific
shipment.Buyer informs the vendor to send all documents three days prior to vessel sailing date

4)Commercial invoice

The invoice must mention the following information

a) Bill to address
b) Ship to address
c) P.O.No
d) SKU reference
e) Description of merchandise
f) Delivery terms
g) Country of origin
h) No of cartons
i) Shipping detail

5)Packing list

It must include the following information

a) Details of the contents of each carton(P.O.NO , SKU reference and quantity)

b) Total summary per P.O.NO and per SKU
c) Total weight and volume

6)Bill of landing/air way bill

a. Consignee name
b. Notified party

7)Export/Certificate of origin

8)Visa with dox stamp: contains visa no and visa date

9)Quota statement: shows quota category and charge and quota license number

10)Single/Multiple country declaration: It shows country of origin and any OPT

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 XVII. CONCLUSION:
An export house plays an integral role in the fashion supply chain by facilitating production. In
the fast changing nature of the garment industry, Time& Action plan helps a merchandiser keep
track of various activities and ensures that it is completed on time.

XVIII. REFERENCES
BOOKS:
 Apparel Merchandising by R. Rathinamoorthy and R. Surjit
 Garment Exports by Darlie O Koshy
 How to successfully export garments by R S Shukla
 Apparel Manufacturing Technology

WEBLINKS:
 http://textilemerchandising.com/how-maintain-time-action-tna-plan/
 https://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2018/08/14-different-types-of-garment-samples.html
 https://www.textiletoday.com.bd/fashion-merchandising-sourcing/
 http://fashion2apparel.blogspot.com/2017/02/trims-accessories-used-garment.html
 https://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/07/fabric-spreading-types-of-fabric.html
 https://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2011/12/operation-break-down-and-sam-of-full.html
 https://clothingindustry.blogspot.com/2018/01/marker-making-garment-industry.html
 https://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2014/03/garments-finishing-process.html

 https://clothingindustry.blogspot.com/2018/10/time-action-plan-apparel-merchandiser.html

 https://www.textiletoday.com.bd/fashion-merchandising-time-and-action-calendar/

 https://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2012/07/time-action-calender-format-for.html

 http://content.inflibnet.ac.in/data-server/eacharya-
documents/56b0853a8ae36ca7bfe81449_INFIEP_79/56/ET/79-56-ET-V1-S1__unit_10.pdf

 https://www.apparelsearch.com/terms/t/time_action_calendar.html

 http://www.garmentsmerchandising.com/flow-chart-of-garments-export-process/

 https://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2016/05/how-to-calculate-lead-time-of-apparel.html

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