Mariposa

Lovey Blanket
R1: With light pink, ch 4, join to form ring, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc here and throughout), 11
dc in ring, join w/sl st to top of beginning ch 3 (12 dc)
R2: Ch 3, 1 dc in same st, 2 dc in ea st around (24 dc)
R3: Ch 3, *skip next st (1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc) in next st, repeat from * around. End row with a
dc in base of ch 3, ch 2, join with sl st to top of ch 3.
R4: Sl st into ch 2 sp, ch 3 (1 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch 2 sp, *(2 dc, ch 2, 2dc) in next ch 2 sp,
repeat from * around. Join. Fasten off light pink.
R5: Attach dark pink to next ch 2 sp. *(2sc, ch 2, 2 sc) in ch 2 sp, 1 sc in next st, skip next
2 st, 1 sc in next st, repeat from * around, end w/sc. Join. Fasten off dark pink.
R6: With white, join w/sl st in next ch 2 sp, ch 3 (1dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch 2 sp, 1dc in next 2
st, skip 2 st, 1 dc in next 2 st, *(2dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch 2 sp, 1dc in next 2 st, skip 2 st, 1 dc in
next 2 st, repeat from * around. End w/2 dc. Join.
R7: Ch 3, dc in next dc, *(1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc) in ch 2 sp, dc in next 3 st, skip 2 st, dc in next 3
st, repeat from *, end with dc in last st and join.
R8: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc, *(2 dc, ch 2, 2dc) in 2 sp, dc in next 3 st, skip 2 st, dc in next 3
st. Repeat from * around. Join w/top of ch 3. Fasten off white
R9: With dark pink, join w/sl st in next ch 2 sp, ch 1, *(2sc, ch 2, 2 sc) in ch 2 sp, sc in
next 4 st, skip 2 st, sc in next 4 st, repeat from * around. Join. Fasten off dark pink
R10: With light pink, join w/sl st in st before a ch 2 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), *(1dc, ch 2, 1
dc) in ch 2 sp, 1dc in next 5 st, skip 2 st, 1 dc in next 5 st, repeat from * around. End by dc
in last 4 st, join.
R11: Ch 3, dc in next dc, *(2 dc, ch 2, 2dc) in ch 2 sp, dc in next 5 st, skip 2 dc, dc in next
5 st, repeat from * around and end by dc in last 3 st & join.
R12: Ch 3, dc in next dc 3 st, *(2 dc, ch 2, 2dc) in ch 2 sp, dc in next 6 st, skip 2 st, dc in
next 6 st, repeat from * around and end by dc in last 2 st & join. Fasten off light pink.
R13: Join dark pink in ch 2 sp, ch1, *(sc, ch 2, sc) in ch 2 sp, sc in next 7 st, skip 2 st, sc in
next 7 st, repeat from * around. Join. Fasten off dark pink.
R14: Join white in sc before a ch 2 sp, ch 3, *(2 dc, ch 2, 2dc) in ch 2 sp, dc in next 7 st,
skip 2 sc, dc in next 7 st, repeat from * around. End row by dc in last 6 st & join.
R15: Ch 3, dc in next 2 dc, *(2 dc, ch 2, 2dc) in ch 2 sp, dc in next 8 st, skip 2 st, dc in next
8 st, repeat from * around. End row by dc in last 5 st & join.
R16: Ch 3, dc in next 4 dc, *(dc, ch 2, dc) in ch 2 sp, dc in next 9 st, skip 2 st, dc in next 9
st, repeat from * around. End row by dc in last 5 st & join. Fasten off white.
R17: Join dark pink in ch 2 sp, ch1, *(2sc, ch 2, 2sc) in ch 2 sp, sc in next 9 st, skip 2 st, sc
in next 9 st, repeat from * around. Join. Fasten off and weave in ends
What you need:
Worsted weight acrylic yarn

I used Red Heart Super Saver
A scrap of black acrylic yarn
Size 7 (4.5 mm) hook
Polyester fiber fill
Yarn needle
Clip to keep place
Scissors
*EDIT 7/31/12
Lately I have been using a F (3.75mm) hook
The finished octo is just about 2 inches tall
Body:
Work in continuous rounds
 Chain 2
 Round 1: Work 6 sc in first chain
 Round 2: Work 2 sc in each sc around - 12 st
 Round 3: *2 sc in next st, sc in next st, rep from * around - 18 st
 Round 4: *2 sc in next st, sc in each of next 2 sts, rep from * around - 24 st
 Round 5-10: Sc in each sc around
 Round 11: *Sc2tog, sc in each of next 2 sts, rep from * around - 18 st
 Round 12: *Sc2tog, sc in next st, rep from * around - 12 st
 Stuff firmly
 Round 13: Sc2tog around -6 st
 Sew up end
Tentacles:
 Chain 7
 sl st into first ch to create ring
 * ch 9
 3 hdc in second chain from hook
 3 hdc in each chain
 sc around center ring
 repeat from * till you have 8 tentacles, you may need to scrunch tentacles closer
together to fit all on the ring
After all eight tentacles are finished your bottom will be kind of ruffly.
To combat this I use the tail from the beginning of the work to do a running
stitch around the circle to help it lay flat. Use tail from finished end to sew tentacles to
body.
Knot and weave in end. Embroider eyes with black yarn.

I use 3 stitches per eye.
 Tienen que saber tejer la cadena, el medio punto y el punto raso (no sé cómo se
llaman estos puntos en sus países, así que si me cuentan, los agrego).
 Comienza con un anillo mágico (o deslizable).
 Se teje todo con medios puntos (mp) en espiral, sin unir las vueltas, con la técnica
de amigurumi.
Van a necesitar:
 vellón siliconado para rellenar

 2 ojos de seguridad (o cuentas negras pero no será apto para niños pequeños)
 hilo rosa para bordar
 aguja de coser lana
 mucho mucho mucho amor♥
Vamos con el cuerpo:
1° vuelta: en anillo deslizable tejer 1 cadena y 6 mp.

2° vuelta: 6 aumentos (aumento=dos mp en el mismo punto), hasta tener 12 puntos.
3° vuelta: 1 aumento, 1 mp, hasta tener 18 puntos.
Les va a quedar algo así:

Marquen el último punto de esta 7° vuelta con un marcador de vueltas o un hilo
contrastante así saben que ahí comienza la vuelta y se ahorran el tener que contar por un
buen ratito. Así lo hago yo:
Ahora empiecen a tejer sin aumentos por 10 vueltas. Son 42 puntos por vuelta, pero para
hacerlo más fácil ¡vayan contando las vueltas a partir del marcador!
Así que llegamos a la vuelta N° 18 con 42 puntos, como teníamos en la N° 10.
Y empezamos a disminuir. [¿Cómo se hace?: Pasamos la aguja por la lazada de adelante del
punto donde va la disminución y luego por la lazada de adelante del punto que le sigue,
tomamos el hilo, lo sacamos por ambas lazadas, tomamos hilo de nuevo y cerramos ambos
puntos de la aguja.]
Empezamos a disminuir así:
19° vuelta: 1 disminución, 5 mp (Quedan 36 puntos).
20°- 22° vuelta: Tejemos estas 3 vueltas sin disminuir (36 mp cada vuelta).
23° vuelta: 1 disminución, 4 mp (Quedan 30 puntos).
24°- 26° vuelta: Volvemos a tejer estas 3 vueltas sin disminuir (30 mp cada vuelta).
Tejemos 1 punto raso en el siguiente punto y rematamos dejando lana para coser (yo dejo
muuuucha, así coso y tejo las orejas sin tener que unir nueva lana. Nunca la medí, pero creo
que son más de 2 metros... Todo es cuestión de probar).
Les va a quedar algo así:
Bordamos la nariz y ponemos los ojos en su lugar, como en la foto de abajo: Fíjense dónde
hice el punto raso final. ¿Lo ven? Tengan en cuenta que si ponen los ojos y la nariz en
otro lugar, cuando cosan la abertura les va a quedar torcido... ¡A menos que quieran un
Gato Picasso!
Ahora sí, rellenan con el vellón ¡o con lo que quieran rellenar! Vero, de Teje Lupita
Crochet contó que ella usa un poco de arroz antes de poner el relleno, así el amigurumi
queda parado. Y yo todavía no lo probé ¡pero es una genialidad! Este gato apoya muy bien,
pero si por ahí quieren darle más peso o asegurar que no se caiga, prueben con el arroz.
¿Vienen bien? Seguro que sí.
Ahora cosemos los 5 puntos centrales de la cabeza, así dejamos los espacios para las orejas.
Miren que en las fotos les muestro cómo coserlos tomando las lazadas externas de cada
punto, así no quedan agujeros, pero cada una tendrá su técnica:
Primero, tomo ambas lazadas y aseguro bien:
Luego, coso solamente las lazadas externas:

Y me queda así. ¿Ven ahora por qué pusimos los ojos JUSTO donde les dije? Así quedan
las orejas en su lugar:
Ahora, pasamos a las orejas:
Si no dejaron los más de 2 metros que les comenté, unan lana junto al último punto que
cosimos, y tomen el hilo así:
tráiganlo para adelante pasándolo por el punto...
...y tejan en redondo 11 mp, 1 disminución, 1 mp, 1 punto raso en siguiente (el punto raso
debería quedar en la punta de la oreja).
Rellenamos la oreja con un poquito más de vellón y cosemos la abertura.
Repetimos con la otra oreja, rematamos, escondemos cualquier hilo que nos haya quedado
dando vueltas por ahí y ¡YA TENEMOS UN GATO SIN COLA!
Créanme... Tengo uno que ha quedado sin cola (para compensar, le puse un corazón) y
anda lo más bien. De hecho es famoso porque es el que salió en la foto del tutorial de la
revista y posó en Córdoba con el almohadón corazón para el día de los enamorados y va a
posar aquí cuando termine el tutorial, ya lo verán: es mi amada Gatita Mú.
Seguimos, que ya falta nada:
Para la cola (o rabo, no sé de qué otra forma la llaman y espero que me perdonen si uso
alguna palabra inapropiada en sus países):
Tejemos en un anillo ajustable 6 mp y seguimos, también, todo en espiral, sin unir vuelta:
6 aumentos (12 puntos en total),
12 mp,
salteamos 1 punto, tejemos 3 mp,
salteamos 1 punto, tejemos 3 mp,
salteamos 1 punto, tejemos 3 mp (Nos quedan 9 puntos en total).
Y ahora tejemos derechito, todo en espiral, hasta que tenemos el largo deseado:
Cosemos la abertura y luego cosemos la cola al cuerpo:

Y aquí, cuando termino de coser la cola, saco la aguja por acá: ¿ven?
le doy una puntada a la cola, paso hacia el otro lado y doy otra puntada más, así la cola me
queda paradita:
Sólo queda rematar y esconder el hilo sobrante y ¡LISTO! ¿Vieron que era fácil? Parece
complicado pero en la práctica, todo cobra sentido y se teje rapidísimo.
Les muestro cómo queda de adelante, miren qué bello, todo un ♥Ashton Cuchi♥:
Don’t join rounds throughout this project unless otherwise stated
Face:
With ecru and 2mm crochet hook, make a magic ring, Ch 1, 6 Sc in ring (6)
Round 2: 2 Sc in each around (12)
Round 3: 2 Sc, Sc in next, repeat around (18)
Round 4: 2 Sc, Sc in next 5, repeat around (21)
Rounds 5-6: Sc in each around (21)
Rounds 9-14: Sc in each around (35)
-Finish off and weave ends.
-With pink yarn sew on nose and mouth. Add safety eyes.
-Proceed with head.
Head:
With white and E crochet hook, make a magic ring, Ch 1, 10 Sc inside ring (10)
Round 2: Sc in first, (bobble st, Sc) in next, repeat around (15)
Round 3: Sc in next 2, 2 Sc in next, repeat around (20)
Round 4: Sc in next, (bobble st, Sc) in next, repeat around (30)
Round 5: Sc around (30)
Round 6: (bobble st, Sc) in next, Sc in next, repeat around (45)
Round 7: Sc in next 4, 2 Sc in next, repeat around (54)
Round 8: Sc in next 2, bobble st in next, repeat around (54)
Round 10: bobble st, Sc, Sc decrease, repeat around until 2 sts left to work, bobble st, Sc
(41)
Round 12: bobble st, Sc in next 2, repeat around (41)
Round 14: bobble st, Sc, Sc decrease, repeat around, Sc in last (31)
-Break yarn leaving a long tail for sewing
-Stuff with polyfil and sew head to face (sew through back loops only of Round 14 of face
-Weave ends
Ears:
*make 2
With ecru and 2mm hook, Ch 8, Hdc in 2nd from hook and across, make 2 Hdc in last st of
the row, turn the work to Hdc in each stitch up the other side of the foundation Ch, sl st to
first st of the round to join, Ch 2 (14)
Round 2: 2 Dc in next 3, 2 Hdc in next, 2 Sc in next 6, 2 Hdc in next, 2 Dc in next 2, sl st to
join, finish off leaving a long tail.
-Using a makeup brush and cheap blush, apply softly to the inner part of the ear just over
Round 1
-Pinch the wide end closed and sew onto the head (the pinched part of the ear should be
sewn about halfway down the head)
Body:
With white and E hook, make a magic ring, 6 sc in ring (6)
Round 2: 2 Sc in each around (12)
Round 3: (Bobble st, Sc) in each around (24)
Round 5: (Bobble st, Sc) in next, Sc in next, repeat around (36)
Round 7: (Bobble st, Sc) in next, Sc in next 2, repeat around (48)
Round 9: (Bobble st, Sc) in next, Sc in next 2, repeat around (64)
Round 11: Bobble st, Sc in next 2, repeat around (64)
Round 16: Sc decrease, Sc next 2, repeat around (48)
Round 17: Bobble st, Sc next 2, repeat around (48)

-Stuff with polyfil to desired firmness
Round 20: Sc decrease, Sc, repeat around (18)
Round 21: Sc decrease around (9)
-Finish off leaving a long tail, sew bottom closed and weave ends
Legs:
*make 2
With ecru and a 2mm hook, make a magic ring, Ch 1, 6 Sc inside ring (6)
Round 2: 2 Sc around (12)
Round 3: 2 Sc, Sc in next, repeat around (18)
Rounds 4-5: Sc around (18)
Round 6: Sc decrease, Sc next, repeat around (12)
-Start adding polyfil every few rounds from here on
-Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing
-Smoosh Round 19 flat and whip stitch closed, then sew to Round 18 of body
-With a small piece of taupe or brown yarn, sew through magic ring of each leg and back
out through Round 7 a few times and pull tight (to create a “hoof). Repeat on other leg.
Arms:
*make 2
With ecru and a 2mm hook, make a magic ring, Ch 1, 6 Sc inside ring (6)
Round 2: 2 Sc around (12)
Round 3-4: Sc around (12)
Round 5: Sc decrease, Sc next, repeat around (9)
-Start adding polyfil every few rounds from here on
-Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing
-Smoosh Round 18 flat and whip stitch closed, then sew to Round 4 of body
Abbreviations (US terms):
ch – chain
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
rpt – repeat
Skill Level: 2 Easy

Pattern Notes
-Flower pot will be made wit 4 parts – pot, top soil, flowers, and leaves.
-Do not join rounds throughout the pattern.
CROCHET FLOWER POT

Flower Pot:
With brown yarn, make a magic ring, ch 1, sc 6
Row 1: 2 sc in each around (12)
Row 2: 2 sc, sc, rpt around (18)
Row 3: 2 sc, sc 2, rpt around (24)
Row 5: back loop only sc around (30)
Row 7: sc around (33)
Row 14: front loop only around- 2 sc, sc 6, rpt around (48)
Row 15: back loop only sc around (48)
Row 16-17: sc around (48)

Top Soil:
With brown yarn, repeat flower pot Rows 1-4
Row 6: 2 sc, sc in next 5, rpt around (42)
Row 7: 2 sc, sc in next 6, rpt around (48)
Row 8-13: sc in each around (48)
Finish off leaving a long tail.
Flower:
*make 30
With either purple or cream yarn, make a magic ring.
Row 1: *(ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2, sl st) into ring, repeat from * 3 more times.
Tighten magic ring and finish off leaving long tails.
Sew or knot onto top piece.
Leaves:
*make 10
With green yarn, ch 4
2 dc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, 3 sc in last ch, turn to work down other side of
chain
Hdc in next ch, 2 dc in next ch, sl st into last ch, finish off
Sew or knot onto flower pot top after flowers are attached.
You need:
 Hook size D, or 3
 Yarn in at least 2 matching colours appropriate for hook size
 Scraps of white, black and orange yarn for eyes and beak
 Needle for sewing and weaving in ends
 Round elastic band in colour matching your yarn. (See pic below)
 Stitch marker or safety pin.
 Stuffing for owl and balls.
 2 rings to fasten decoration onto baby carriage.
Stitches:
 Chain stitches (ch)

 Single Crochets (sc)
 Single Crochets 2 together (sc2tog)
Wings, make 2:
Ch 6
R 1: Turn. 1 sc in every stitch starting with second stitch (st) from hook. (5 st)
R 2-4: Turn. Ch 1. 1 sc in every st. (5 st)
R 5-6: Ch 1. Skip first st. 1 sc in each st. (4 st in r 5 and 3 st in r 6)
Using second colour, crochet sc around the wing on 3 sides, leaving bottom without (see
pictures). To avoid weaving in ends you can crochet over the ends as in picture.
Leave a long tail, about 32 inches, or 80 cm on one of the wings. This will be used to
embroider the small v’s on the owl’s tummy.
Owl body:
You will be crocheting in rounds without joining the rounds
Ch 2
R 1: 6 sc in second ch from hook.
R 2: 2 sc in every stitch. Place a marker in first sc to know were round starts and move it
along as you crochet. (Annika does not move hers along as you can see in her pics.) (12st)
R 3: 1 sc in first st, 2 sc in next. Repeat rest of round. (18 st)
R 4: 1 sc in each of first 2 st, 2 sc in next. Repeat rest of round. (24 st)
R 8- 17: 1 sc in every st.

In next round you will fasten wings by inserting needle in both wing and body when doing
your sc. Start with wing with long yarn end. You will also be making the holes were the
elastic band will go.
R 1: Add wing starting with first st: 2 sc, ch 1, skip 1 st, 2 sc. Now do 16 sc between
wings. Start adding second wing. 2 sc, ch 1 skip 1 st, 2 sc. 16 sc between the wings.
R 2: 1 sc in each of first 3 st, 1 sc2tog. Repeat rest of round. For instruction of sc2tog see
pic below.
R 3: 1 sc in first of 2 st, 1 sc2tog. Repeat rest of round.
Use long yarn tail to embroider the small v’s on owl tummy. Space evenly.
Weave in ends on inside of owl and leave tail in bottom of owl’s inside.
Continue with body. 7 rounds with 1 sc in every st.
Eyes:
White of eye, make 2:
With white yarn, ch 2.
R 1: Ch 6 in second sc from hook.
R 2: 2 sc in every st. (12 st). Fasten off. Leave tail long enough to sew eye onto owl. Weave
in middle yarn end.
Pupil,make 2:
With black yarn ch 2.
R 1: 4 sc in second ch from hook. Fasten off. Leave tail long enough to sew pupil to white
of eye. Weave in middle yarn end.
Sew pupil to white of eye.
If you want your owl to have closed eyes, skip pupil and just embroider white of eye.
Now place and sew eyes to body of owl. Embroider a small beak. The pic below shows
weaving in ends on wrong side of work.
Fill lower part of owl with stuffing.

Cut about 28 inches, or 70 cm, of elastic band. To prevent elastic band to unravel and make
it easier to pull through owl you could paint the ends with small amount of clear nail polish.
Pull elastic band through owl.

Add more stuffing.
Close owl by crocheting together. See pic below.
Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Balls:
The rounds are not joined.
Ch 2
R 1: 6 sc in second ch from hook.
R 2 2 sc in every st. Place stitch marker in first st and move it along your work, to keep
track of first st. (12 st)
R 3: 1 sc in first st, 2 sc in next. Repeat rest of round. (18 st)
R 4: 1 sc in first 2 st, 2 sc in next. Repeat rest of round. (24 st)

R 5-7: 1 sc in every st.
R 8: 1 sc in each of first 2 st, 1 sc2tog, repeat rest of round.
R 9: 1 sc in first st, 1 sc2tog in next, repeat rest of round.
Pull elastic band through ball (bottom to top, se second pic below) and fill with stuffing.
R 10: sc2tog the whole round. Fasten off. Weave in ends,
Make more owls and balls as needed.
When done with all owls and balls it is time for ear tassels.
Fold 4 pieces of yarn double. Thread loop throug ear, back to front. Pull yarn ends through
loop. Pull tight. Cut ear tassels to good looking length.
Add rings to to fasten decoration on baby carriage.
Here are som inspiration pics by Annika:

A medida que el corazón está tejido de ganchillo en círculos, coloque un marcador en
la primera puntada de cada fila como marcador o coloque un hilo de tejer de diferente
color alrededor del lazo en el gancho antes de tejer la primera puntada. de cada
rango:
Abreviaturas: puntada de deslizamiento: mc / costura cerrada: ms / aumentar

(crochet 2 ms en la última fila): aumentar / disminuir (coser el crochet en 1 ms de la
fila anterior, traer 1 vuelta, coser el crochet en la siguiente ms) de la fila anterior,
traiga 1 bucle de vuelta, haga 1 lanzamiento y tráigalo de vuelta a través de los 3
bucles en el gancho): oscuro.
Haz 1 círculo mágico.
Rango 1: 9 ms atascado en el círculo mágico. Apriete el círculo mágico tirando del

extremo del hilo de tejer (9 m)
Fila 2: 2 sc en cada sc de la fila anterior (18 pts)
Fila 3: 9 veces * 2 sc en el primer sc, 1 sc en el siguiente sc * (27 pts)
Rango 4 a Rango 8: 1 sc en cada sc de la fila anterior (27 pts)
Cortar el hilo y tirar del lazo en el gancho para recuperarlo. Retrae los 2 hilos
con una aguja de lana. Tire bien del hilo del principio para apretar el círculo mágico
tanto como sea posible y para evitar que se escape el relleno: Ha obtenido 1 media
esfera. El final del último rango es claramente visible: esta demarcación se colocará
contra la segunda media esfera en el momento del ensamblaje y, por lo tanto,
desaparecerá:
Haz una segunda media esfera a ganchillo, pero no cortes el hilo:

4Coloca las 2 medias esferas cara a cara:
Tomar la primera media esfera: coser el gancho por debajo de 1 ms del rango anterior,
1 ms antes de la demarcación formada al final de la última fila
Cosa el gancho en el bucle de la segunda media esfera que queda en espera:
Traiga las 2 medias esferas juntas y vuelva a colocar el lazo a través de la malla
apretada en el gancho (1 cm):
Continúe el ensamblaje haciendo crochet 1 costura de hendidura debajo de 1 sc de
cada media esfera 2 veces:
Rango 9: Coloque un marcador para marcar el primer ms ubicado después del

ensamblaje (en la segunda media esfera anterior): 1 sc en cada sc de la última fila de
las 2 semiesferas combinadas (48 m o 27 m por la mitad -esfera - los 6 m comunes a
causa del montaje)
Rango 10: 11ms, 1 dim, 22ms, 1 dim, 11ms (46m)
Rango 11: 11ms, 1 dim, 21ms, 1 dim, 10ms (44m)

Rango 12: 10 ms, 2 dim, 18 ms, 2 dim, 8 ms (40 m)
Rango 13: 9ms, 2dials, 16ms, 2dials, 7ms (36m)
Rango 14: 8 ms, 2 sol, 14 ms, 2 sol, 6 ms (32 m)
Rango 15: 7ms, 2dim, 12ms, 2dim, 5ms (28m). Comenzar a rellenar el corazón
con firmeza.
Rango 16: 6 ms, 2 dim, 10 ms, 2 dim, 4 ms (24 m)
Rango 17: 5 ms, 2 diales, 8 ms, 2ds, 3 ms (20 m)
Rango 18: 4 ms, 2 dim, 6 ms, 2 dim, 2 ms (16 m). Continuar el relleno a
medida que avanza.
Rango 19: 3ms, 2dim, 4ms, 2dim, 1ms (12m)
Rango 20: 2 ms, 2 ms, 2 ms, 2 s (8 m)
Rango 21: quitar la marca. 4 veces * 1 tenue *
Cortar el hilo, tirar del lazo en el gancho para recuperarlo. Enrosque el hilo en una
aguja de lana, apriete la última fila asegurándose de formar un buen punto. Detener el
hilo.
ch – chain
– sc – single crochet
– hdc – half double crochet
– dc – double crochet
– slst – slip stitch
Start by making 10 chain.
1st round:
Make dc in the third chain from the hook, make another 6 dc in next 6 ch, make 4 dc in last
ch, make 7 dc on the other side of foundation chain, join with slst in ch 2 space from
beginning.
2nd round:
Ch 1, make 2 sc in each next 2 dc from previous round, 1 sc in next 4 dc, 2 sc in each next
6 dc, 5 sc, 2 sc in next dc, 2 sc in slst, slst in first sc from beginning.
3rd round:
Ch 1, make 2 sc in each next 3 sc from previous round, 6 sc, *1 hdc in next sc, 2 hdc in
next sc (repeat from * 4 more times), 1 hdc, 6 sc, 2 sc in the each next 2 sc, 2 sc in slst, slst
in first sc from beginning. Fasten off.
Now you will join two soles facing them rear to rear like shown on the picture.
Make ch 1 and go around soles joining them with sc, slst in ch1 from beginning.
Ch 1, 9 sc, ch 8, dc in last of four dc’s of sole like shown on the picture, ch 6, 9 sc, slst
in ch1 from beginning, ch 15 and again slst in ch1 from beginning (this will give you
loop where you will put metal key ring. Fasten off, wave in ends and you’re done!
Stitches and Abbreviations:
I use US terms, so single crochet= same as UK double crochet here.
Chain (ch)
Single crochet (sc)
Stitches (sts)
Single Crochet 2 Together (sc2tog)
To single crochet 2 together:

Insert hook into next stitch.
Yarn over, pull up a loop. (2 loops on hook)
Insert hook into next stitch.
Yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook)
Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.
Pattern
Starting from the bottom and working up
Make 6 sc in magic ring OR
ch2, 6 sc in 2nd chain from hook.
1. 2sc in each sc (12 sts)

2. 2sc in each sc (24)
3. Sc 24
4. (Sc 1, 2scs in next st) repeat around (36)
5. Sc 36

8-21. Sc 60
22. (Sc 2, sc2tog) repeat around (45)
Begin stuffing /add your bag of sand

25. Sc 24

27-28. Sc 36

30-33. Sc 42

35-36. Sc 36
Ear 1
To make the ears, you will work both 'halves' of the head separately
37. Sc 9, make 1 sc stitch across to the other side (see photo), then sc 8 back to the stitch
marker 18)
Add eyes and stitch nose.

Stuff as you go.
38. Sc2tog, sc 5, sc2tog, sc2tog, sc 5, sc2tog (14)

39. Sc2tog, sc 4, sc2tog, sc 6 (12)
40. Sc2tog, sc 3, sc2tog, sc 5 (10)
41. Sc2tog around (5)
Sew closed.
Ear 2
Repeat rows 37-41
You will have a slight gap between the ears, which can be sewn closed at the end.
Tail
Make 6 sc in magic ring OR

ch2, 6 sc in 2nd chain from hook.

2. Sc 9
4. Sc 12
6-9. Sc18
11. Sc 12
12. (Sc2, sc2tog) repeat around (9)
13-14. Sc9
Fasten off, leaving 30cm tail for sewing on later.

Stuff
Finishing off
Sew the tail to the side of the body.
Add a ribbon to your Moggy's neck.
Sew the gap between the ears closed.
nomenclatura:
pb= punto bajo o medio punto
aum= aumento
dim= disminución
GENERICO:
(Estas partes son comunes a los tres muñequitos)
Cabeza:
1: 6pb en un anillo mágico (6)
2: 6aum (12)
3: *1pb, 1aum* rep todo alrededor (18)
9-13: 1pb en cada pb (48)
14: *6pb, 1dim* rep todo alrededor (42)
20: 6dim (6)
Cuerpo:
2: 7aum (14)
Brazos (x2):
3: 1pb en cada pb (9)
Patas (x2):
(en un color)
2: 6aum (12)
(cambiar color para hacer el efecto de la patita)
8: 6dim (6)
9: 1pb en cada pb (6) Para hacer el conejito:
Orejas (x2):
2: 5aum (10)
10-11: 1pb en cada pb (12)
Cola:
2: 6aum (12)
4: 6dim (6)
Flor:
En rosa, trabajar por filas, hacer una cadeneta de 21pc,
1: *1pa, 1pc 1pa* en quinto pc de la cadeneta, *1pc, saltarse un pc, 1pa, 1pc, 1pa* rep todo
alrededor, 3pc y girar la pieza
Para hacer el gatito:
Orejas (x2)
2: *1 pb, 1 aum* rep todo alrededor (9)
3: *2 pb, 1 aum* rep todo alrededor (12)
4: 2 pb, 2 aum, 4 pb, 2 aume, 2 pb (16)
5: 3 pb, 2 aum, 6 pb, 2 aum, 3 pb (20)
6: 5 pb, 1 aum, 8 pb, 1 aum, 5 pb(22)
Cola:
2-14: 6pb (6)
(con lana bebe simple y aguja 00, en color violeta)
Flor: (blanco)
1: 6 pb en un aro deslizado (6)
2: 6 aum (12)
La flor fucsia en un agregado de una flor de resina

Para hacer el osito:
Orejas:
2: 6aum (12)
4-6: 1pb en cada punto 18)
Hocico:
2: 6aum (12)
Cola:
2: 6aum (12)
4: 6dim (6)
(con lana bebe simple y aguja 00, en color violeta)
Flor: (verde)
2: 6 aum (12)
4: *1 pb y 3 pc* repetir de * a*
Flor: (violeta)
2: 6 aum (12)
La flor fucsia en un agregado de una flor de resina

Mariposa

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Lovey Blanket

R2: Ch 3, 1 dc in same st, 2 dc in ea st around (24 dc)

Worsted weight acrylic yarn

Knot and weave in end. Embroider eyes with black yarn.

 vellón siliconado para rellenar

Vamos con el cuerpo:

1° vuelta: en anillo deslizable tejer 1 cadena y 6 mp.

3° vuelta: 1 aumento, 1 mp, hasta tener 18 puntos.

4° vuelta: 1 aumento, 2 mp, hasta tener 24 puntos.

5° vuelta: 1 aumento, 3 mp, hasta tener 30 puntos.

6° vuelta: 1 aumento, 4 mp, hasta tener 36 puntos.

7° vuelta: 1 aumento, 5 mp, hasta tener 42 puntos.

Les va a quedar algo así:

Empezamos a disminuir así:

19° vuelta: 1 disminución, 5 mp (Quedan 36 puntos).

23° vuelta: 1 disminución, 4 mp (Quedan 30 puntos).

Primero, tomo ambas lazadas y aseguro bien:

Luego, coso solamente las lazadas externas:

Ahora, pasamos a las orejas:

Seguimos, que ya falta nada:

Cosemos la abertura y luego cosemos la cola al cuerpo:

Round 2: 2 Sc in each around (12)

Round 3: 2 Sc, Sc in next, repeat around (18)

Round 4: 2 Sc, Sc in next 5, repeat around (21)

Rounds 5-6: Sc in each around (21)

Round 7: 2 Sc, Sc in next 2, repeat around (28)

Round 8: 2 Sc, Sc in next 3, repeat around (35)

Rounds 9-14: Sc in each around (35)

-Finish off and weave ends.

-Proceed with head.

Round 2: Sc in first, (bobble st, Sc) in next, repeat around (15)

Round 3: Sc in next 2, 2 Sc in next, repeat around (20)

Round 4: Sc in next, (bobble st, Sc) in next, repeat around (30)

Round 5: Sc around (30)

Round 6: (bobble st, Sc) in next, Sc in next, repeat around (45)

Round 7: Sc in next 4, 2 Sc in next, repeat around (54)

Round 8: Sc in next 2, bobble st in next, repeat around (54)

Round 9: Sc around (54)

Round 11: Sc around (41)

Round 12: bobble st, Sc in next 2, repeat around (41)

Round 13: Sc around (41)

-Break yarn leaving a long tail for sewing

With white and E hook, make a magic ring, 6 sc in ring (6)

Round 2: 2 Sc in each around (12)

Round 3: (Bobble st, Sc) in each around (24)

Round 4: Sc around (24)

Round 5: (Bobble st, Sc) in next, Sc in next, repeat around (36)

Round 6: Sc around (36)

Round 7: (Bobble st, Sc) in next, Sc in next 2, repeat around (48)

Round 8: Sc around (48)

Round 9: (Bobble st, Sc) in next, Sc in next 2, repeat around (64)

Round 10: Sc around (64)

Round 11: Bobble st, Sc in next 2, repeat around (64)

Round 12: Sc around (64)

Round 13: Bobble st, Sc in next 2, repeat around (64)

Round 14: Sc around (64)

Round 15: Bobble st, Sc in next 2, repeat around (64)

Round 16: Sc decrease, Sc next 2, repeat around (48)

Round 17: Bobble st, Sc next 2, repeat around (48)

Round 18: Sc decrease, Sc next 2, repeat around (36)

Round 19: Sc decrease, Sc next 2, repeat around (27)

Round 20: Sc decrease, Sc, repeat around (18)

Round 21: Sc decrease around (9)