GOLD AND SILVER JEWELERY

Craft of old Lucknow

Lucknow owes its social and

historic advancement to the
Mughal Empire. Lucknow
supported the line of the
Nawabs in the main portion of
the eighteenth century when
the then Mughal Emperors
delegated Nawabs for smooth
organization of Awadh. The
seat of organization was moved
from Awadh to Lucknow amid
the British time of India.

Beginning of a period more than 100 years from 1732 to 1856

Ruled in turns by the Delhi Sultanate, Mughals,
Nawabs of Awadh and later the British Empire,
it is a confluence of multicultural heritage.

The Nawabs of Awadh are credited with having

the most influence on the city’s culture and
heritage.

The language is a beautiful mix of Awadhi,

Hindi, and Urdu.

Nawabs upheld communal harmony among the

Muslims and the Hindus eg- Dewa Sharif.

They were secular and encouraged arts, music,

dance and architecture among many other
things.

 Last Nawab of Lucknow Wajid Ali Shah

Begum Hazrat Mahal

She represented the modern woman, she

was multi faceted. Started of life as a
courtesan (sold by her aunt).
She wanted respect for her art.

She rose later in ranks and became the

king's, Nawab Wajid Ali’s, favourite. She
then convinced him to marry her. Then
she was declared the Queen when their
son was born.
Before British rule in Lucknow, the
courtesans were the chief preservers
and performers of high court
culture.

Nobility lavished these women with

jewels and gold coins and they
became among the highest earners
in Lucknow.

Colonial authorities called the

women ‘singing and dancing girls’.

An invitation to a salon for a cultural

soiree brought great prestige.

Umrao Jaan was a Lucknowi

courtesan, born in 1840 as Amiran
to a modest family in Faizabad.
During the Mughal rule, jewelry-making was given utmost importance.

The Mughal emperors conquered most of India, and as a result, their influence extended
well beyond North India.

Following the Mughals, their style of jewellery-making was carried forward and indulged
in by the successive Indian rulers as well.

This art gave birth to unique jewelry pieces studded with chunky gemstones and
enamelled with motif designs.

Royal family members and people of high rank proudly displayed such jewelry all over
their bodies, from jeweled turbans and head-jewelry to thick-set toe rings.

Wearing expensive jewelry marked one's position.

Emperors and empresses as well as courtiers and other people of high ranks were adorned
with heavy jewelry beset with massive stones and beads.
BegumHazrat Mahal adorned with the
following ornamnets:

• Maang tika
• Jhoomer
• Nath
• Bangles
• Guluband
• Lara haar, Patri Haar, Rupaya Haar
• Hand piece or ‘hand candy

Indian gold work with Middle Eastern

floral designs. Birds, flowers and paisley
are the most common designs used in
this jewelry technique.

Motifs were naturalistic in appearance.

 Chowk, the oldest part of the city, it is at right angle of Gomti River. It was often
celebrated as the street of entertainment, elegance, witty courtesans, music and poetry,
patronised by wealthy men. Post the Nawab era, there were little workshops on both sides
of the street.

The market is a perfect blend of showrooms of international brands and local brands as
well now.

Sarafa Bazaar

It is one of the most popular jewelry

and gold shopping destinations in
Lucknow.
The vendors deal in gold, silver, and
precious gemstones in a variety of
ornaments. The jewellery sold in the
Sarafa Market have a diverse range
when it comes to aesthetics, quality,
and traditions.
LAYOUT OF SHOPS
 IMPORTANT PROCESSES

SMELTING AND INGOT STAGE

Graphite crucible used

Clockwise (From left)
Cast iron ingot molds
1. Coals stored in the shop
Heavy duty tongs
2. Furnace with crucible inside
.3. Heavy duty tongs are used
The open ingot mold is kept close to the
furnace so it automatically heats up

As the metal is poures, borax is added to it to

give it a shine. The very hot metal is after a
while taken out from tongs
RAW MATERIAL

Raw material is drawn into wires of varying thickness and

used accordingly. The wrie drawing machine is worth
90,000/- and can take out wire of varied thikness.
STAMPING/BLANKING

Clockwise (from left)

1. Hand press die cutter

2.Die cutting cross section
3. Mechanism
Dies and more dies
A die from Mumbai
Sample dies made of brass.
Hand Press die cutters
The side view of the die where
the metal strip goes

The stamping and blanking

operation, emboseed first and
then cut
Sample dies numbered and named yearwise
 A range of ornamnets and
1000’s of sample dies to
choose from . These die
cutting samples are made
from brass (for gold)and
plastic
The antique plaques safely kept in a sid shelf while the rest are displayed
at the very front of the shop.
SAWING AND FILING

Saw blades (top)

And files (bottom)
SOLDERING

Keeping in mind-
• Melting point of silver solder 183 °C.
• Melting point of gold solder 450 °C.
• Melting point of gold 1064 °C.
• Melting point of silver 961.8 °C.
Ceramic dish

Mix of solder (alloy) and flux (borax)

Neutral flame, with an even mix of oxygen and gas Asbestos sheet
POLISHING AND BUFFING

Beeswax as a polishing compound

SILVER RING MAKING (ANGOOTHEE)

After getting a ring size from a ring sizer gauge, the artist
cuts silver wire from the roll.
Marks are put on the mandrel for a particular size.
He puts it on the mandrel and beats it with a mallet. As the
ends flaten the shank gets ready.
Ring sizers and mandrel used to start the process. Two baths are kept(water and acid). Smelting pan.

Ring mandrel is used to check the size

 A thin silver wire is cut to provide the secure base for the stone.

Soldering is done here once the shank is made. A solder +flux is used to attach shank to
compartment.
A compartment is made for the stone from silver which is later soldered to thee shank of
the ring via solder and flame directed toward it from blower. Hen it is filed using hand
files, needle files placing the piece on the wooden anvil.
Once the filing is done, the stone is set inside and the outer
edge of the container is bent by placing it on the wooden
support.

The finishing is done at last on the buffer machine using

beeswax as the compound on the wheel. This gives it a
shine.
The pieces are ready to be worn
JHUMKI MAKING

The order is taken and the design is set by the

artisan on clay plate. Dies are fixed togerthhre
on asbestos.

Brass doming jewellery tool worth 250/- is

used to shape metal into hollow beads and in
any desired size. The small silver balls made
will be later attached within a time span of 5
minutes on the dome (umbrella like structure)
of jhumki

When using a torch, you need to protect the

surface upon which you are working and also
protect the area directly under the item you
are soldering.
Gold solder is placed in flux in a ceramic dish, then placed on earring top part

Some tools used for soldering

Brass doming set for the dome

Silver balls are added at next stage

Hollow gold balls are made on the rotatory machine from tiny gold chips, they are later joined by soldering

The small balls are attached to the dome by small wires which are manually
bent in loops. They are kept together on asbestos sheet so they wont move
.
After, polishing, finishing and cleaning the finished
products will look like this (right)
TOOLS SHOP IN CHOWK
Thank You