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Drift Trike Industrial Build Plans

Revision B May 18, 2015

Congratulations and thank you for purchasing the build plans for the Drift Trike Industrial. This
document was prepared based on the prototype vehicle you see in the picture above.
Sections of this document include:

Section 1: Legal Disclaimer

Section 2: General Information

-Capabilities and Limitations
-Design Themes
-Tools Required
-Approximate Cost
-Build Notes
-Part Number Definition and Structure
-Spreadsheet of Components
-Alternate Suppliers

Section 3: Available Sheet Metal Kit

- Authorized Sheet Metal Kit Supplier
- Local Sheet Metal Kit Supplier
- Cut Your Own Parts
- Advanced Option

Section 4: Construction
- Deburring
- Tab-in-Slot Construction

Section 5: Assembly

Section 6: Operation

Section 7: Maintenance
Section 1: Legal Disclaimer
It is necessary to read this document from start to finish, more than once if necessary, before
purchasing components or beginning construction. The author of these plans cannot guarantee
that components used in this design will be available at all times. Therefore you should check
the availability of ALL specified components to ensure they are available before committing to
buy ANY components. If you have any doubt to whether you can obtain all parts, whether you
have the budget to complete the project, or doubt about your ability/build skill level, it is best to
stop now, and cut your losses at only the cost of these plans.
Although the information and recommendations in this document are presented in good faith and
believed to be correct, this document is provided on an “as is” basis. No representations or
warranties, either expressed or implied, of fitness for any purpose or of any other nature are
made hereunder.
Information is supplied upon the condition that the persons receiving same will make their own
determination as to its suitability for their purposes prior to use. In no event will we be
responsible for damages or personal injuries of any nature whatsoever resulting from the use of
or reliance upon information from this document or the products to which the information refers.

The construction and use of this information may be dangerous, even deadly. The purchaser
of these plans takes the responsibility to fully and properly guard all moving parts including but
not limited to chains and sprockets, wheels, etc. to ensure no injury is sustained. Purchase of
these build plans or any parts kits offered assumes you agree to all risks related to and/or arising
from your construction, ownership and use of these plans or the resulting vehicle and agree to
indemnify and hold us harmless from any and all claims brought by any person or entity against
us related to and/or arising from your construction, ownership and/or use of these plans.

This or these documents are a guideline only. Final detailed design and selection of
components must be investigated and made by the purchaser of these plans and the
purchaser assumes all risks of personal injury or losses.

This document is protected by international copyright laws and therefore cannot be

forwarded in the form of an email or by any other means, and cannot be resold. This
design is intended to be used by the hobbyist to build a drift trike for their own use only.
These plans or this design cannot be used for production of these vehicles in quantities and
offered for sale without written consent of the supplier of these plans. The Drift Trike
Industrial name and logo cannot be used without written consent of the inventor.

The inventor of the Drift Trike has this email address: baumail2000@yahoo.com. If this
document was received from an email address other than above they have been purchased
from someone other than the inventor, and have been sold to you illegally. The fraudulent
seller will not be able to answer your technical questions. Please report any of these
instances to the inventor.
Section 2: General Information

Drift Trike Capabilities and Limitations:

This vehicle can be unstable and can roll over on hills. Since this vehicle can turn so sharply,
abrupt turns at high speed may also cause the trike to roll over. It is recommended that the rider
wear appropriate protective gear when riding, including but not limited a helmet, boots, etc. This
vehicle is intended for occasional use and should not be expected to be used for reliable daily
Design Themes:
It will be explained here and in Section 3 that different design themes are available. The design
theme refers to the decorative cutouts that are part of the frame, front fork, and drive assembly,
giving each drift trike a unique look. The prototype built and shown in these plans is the
“hexagon” theme, but .dxf files are included with the purchase of these plans for all of these
 Hexagons
 Circles
 Diamonds
 Hearts
 Spades
 Clubs

This vehicle, with the components specified, could go over 25 miles per hour. This top speed
can vary by the use of other engines and other sprockets in the drive train the weight of the
driver, but going faster is not recommended. This trike as shown here will weigh around 145
pounds, depending on how much you vary from these plans. The overall approximate
dimensions are shown on drawing DT-200 (Main Assembly).
Tools Required:
There are of course many variations and uses of tools, so the builder will have to make their own
judgments on the proper tool for the job. The unique feature of this trike’s construction is the
tab-in-slot design, which allows the components to mostly self-fixture to simplify the
construction and welding process. If purchasing a kit from either the recommended supplier or
your local supplier, you will drastically reduce the number of tools required to build this vehicle.
Build kits will be explained in Section 3.
Assuming a kit is obtained, you will need the following tools:
 welder capable of welding together adjoining plates of 1/8 inch thickness
 angle grinder, with cut off wheel and sanding flap wheel (for cleaning up welds,
separating the drive chain, and making cuts in steel tube)
 hammer and punch (for separating the drive chain, unless a chain separator tool is
 hand tools such as wrenches, socket/ratchets, screwdrivers, etc.
 various weld clamps and typical weld fixture tools
If you do not purchase a kit, and plan on cutting sheet metal shapes, you will need these
additional tools at a minimum:
 jig saw capable of cutting metal, plasma cutter, or oxy-acetylene cutting torch
Advanced tools such as a lathe, milling machine, pipe bender, etc. are not required.
Approximate Cost:
The cost of the vehicle will vary from builder to builder because of many reasons, including
material shipping costs, cost of kits between suppliers, paint selection, etc. The prototype
depicted in this document cost approximately $1,050 to build (at the time of this revision), which
of course doesn’t include labor, shipping costs, and doesn’t account for the inevitable increases
in component and material costs. You can expect to spend around 25 to 35 hours building this
You will find that you can significantly reduce the cost by purchasing common hardware (such
as bolts, nuts, and washers) locally as opposed to ordering from McMaster Carr, as McMaster
often forces you to buy in packs of large quantities. Also, the purchase of steel sheet metal, and
other stock locally will likely reduce your total build cost (assuming you choose not to purchase
the kit, or have the sheet metal components CNC cut/ made locally.) For the prototype, these
materials were purchased online from Discount Steel so the part numbers and proper quantities
could be documented. There is significant savings to be had from the shipping costs associated
with heavy raw materials that you won’t incur if purchased locally or from a kit.
Build Notes:
It cannot be stressed enough that the builder will need to have at least an average amount of
mechanical aptitude when building this trike from these plans. It is advised that pieces are tack
welded together first to ensure fit-up of all components. To make your build easier and to save
considerable time, you may want to purchase a kit, as described in Section 3. The purchase of a
sheet metal kit can reduce the need for some tools, save time, and increase your chances of a
successful build.
It also cannot be stressed enough the use of guarding around moving components including but
not limited to chains and sprockets, pinch points, and all areas where there is risk of personal
injury. It is your responsibility to determine where guards are needed and how they should be
designed and constructed, and therefore no guard design or components are offered or supplied.
Final guard design must be determined and constructed by the builder. Pictures and drawings
here are all shown free of covers and guards so you can clearly see the construction and
The components shown in the drawings are recommendations that should work, but the builder is
free to improvise or use other components in its place, and required to investigate if it is the
proper component for their particular build. Every effort has been made to find the components
from the lowest cost supplier.
Please keep in mind that as you look at the pictures shown later in this document, some
improvements were made and incorporated into the build plans after photos of build progress
were taken, so not all photos will exactly match what is in the drawings. Use the information
contained in the drawings whenever possible unless specifically directed otherwise.
Part Number Definition and Structure:
The components required to build the Drift Trike are identified and tied together two ways, the
Bill of Material (BOM) in each drawing, and the Spreadsheet of Components (SOC). The SOC
contains detailed information about the component, the vendor, overall quantities required, and
component cost across the spectrum of all drawings. The BOM (the table found on each
drawing) is specific to each drawing and contains an item number, part number, shorter
description, and quantity required just for the drawing. The part number identifies the vendor,
vendor part number, spreadsheet item number (tying it back to the SOC), and whether or not the
component is available in a kit. A complete part number is made up of all of these pieces.
The first piece of the part number is the vendor ID, which is simply the supplier’s initials. The
second piece, following the “_” (underscore) is the supplier’s own part number. See examples in
the table below.

Part number Supplier Supplier Website

MMC_xxx McMaster Carr Supply www.mcmaster.com
BMI_xxx Barhorst Manuf, Inc. (BMI Karts) www.bmikarts.com
DS_xxx Discount Steel www.discountsteel.com
MJG_xxx MJG email: matthewjgolden@hotmail.com
TLR_xxx Top Lowrider www.toplowrider.com
FP_xxx Farmall Parts.com www.farmallparts.com
HF_xxx Harbor Freight Tools www.harborfreight.com
BSW_xxx Bike Some Where www.bikesomewhere.com
BD_xxx Bicycle Designer www.bicycledesigner.com

The third piece of the part number is the item number in the SOC, which is found after the “/”
(slash) symbol. Furthermore, if the component also happens to be an item that is supplied when
purchasing a sheet metal kit, there will be an additional slash followed by the letter “K”. An
example of a complete part number is shown below:


Vendor ID Vendor Part # SOC Item # Supplied in Sheet Metal Kit (if purchased)

Note in the table above, the Supplier “MJG”. This is the authorized supplier of the sheet metal kit, and is
also offering the PVC sleeves for sale for $19.00 plus shipping. This supplier has no website, but their
email address is listed in the Supplier Website column. If interested in purchasing the sleeves from this
supplier, simply send an email to the supplier with “PVC Sleeves” in the email subject line and you will
receive a return email with estimated shipping costs, anticipated delivery, and purchasing details. If
purchasing both the sheet metal kit and the PVC sleeves, please indicate that you wish to receive both
the sheet metal kit (specify which design theme) and the PVC Sleeves in the body of the email. The
items will be shipped in the same box to save costs. More details on the sheet metal kit are in Section 3.
Spreadsheet of Components (SOC):

Item description part/item number vendor unit cost qty total cost drawing where used
100 7/8" Throttle Twist Grip Assembly (includes hand grip for both hands) 300300 BMI Karts $18.95 1 $18.95 DT-201
101 Clutch: #41 chain, 3/4" shaft 400941 BMI Karts $25.95 1 $25.95 DT-209
102 Drift Trike Axle Kit with Tires & Rims (333020) 333020 BMI Karts $308.95 1 $308.95 DT-205, DT-206, DT-207, DT-208, DT-209
103 Throttle Cable with Swaged Ball, 84" long, 5/64" diameter for 1/4" conduit 400797 BMI Karts $5.50 1 $5.50 DT-201
104 Bulk Cable Conduit, 1/4", (order 7 total feet @ $1.50/foot) AZ2315 BMI Karts $10.50 1 $10.50 DT-201

200 PVC sleeves, 10" SCH 40 X 6" no P/N assigned MJG $19.99 1 $19.99 DT-207

300 Wheel: Sta-Tru 20 x 1.75 Rear FW Black Steel Bicycle Wheel - RW2075BS 86908_0_0 Bike Some Where $35.99 1 $35.99 DT-202
301 Tube: Kenda Mountain Bicycle, 32mm Schrader Valve (20 x 1.75/2.125 - Low Lead) 82389_0_0 Bike Some Where $4.59 1 $4.59 DT-202
302 Tire: Impac Crosspac BS 108 Bicycle Tire (Black - 20 x 1.75) 53552_0_0 Bike Some Where $8.99 1 $8.99 DT-202
303 Rim Tape: Schwalbe High Pressure Bicycle Rim Tape - 1 Roll, 20in X 22mm 48481_0_0 Bike Some Where $3.30 1 $3.30 DT-202
304 Brake Kit: includes caliper, hand lever, 160 mm disc, cable, screws 113911 Top Low Rider $34.99 1 $34.99 DT-200, DT-201, DT-202, DT-203
305 Disc Brake Adapter, free or flip-flip hub, for 160 mm disc 505215 BicycleDesigner $19.00 1 $19.00 DT-202

400 Cap Screw, Grade 5 Zinc-Plated, 3/4"-16 Thread, 8" Long 91247A492 McMaster $7.99 1 $7.99 DT-103
401 Ribbed Finishing Plug for Tubing, Fits 2" Tube OD and 1.74"-1.83" Tube ID (package of 20) 9283K39 McMaster $13.37 1 $13.37 DT-200
402 Locknut, Nylon-Insert, 3/4"-16 Thread Size (package of 5) 90630A170 McMaster $4.45 1 $4.45 DT-200
403 Steel Ball Bearing, Flanged Double Sealed for 3/4" Shaft Diameter, 1-3/4" OD 6384K369 McMaster $11.63 2 $23.26 DT-200
404 Cap Screw, Grade 5 Zinc-Plated Steel, 1/4"-20 Fully Threaded, 7/8" Long (package of 100) 92865A541 McMaster $9.83 1 $9.83 DT-205
405 Locknut, Nylon-Insert, Zinc-Plated, 1/4"-20 Thread Size, 7/16" Wide, 5/16" High (package of 100) 90640A129 McMaster $4.27 1 $4.27 DT-205
406 Cap Screw, Grade 5 Zinc-Plated 5/16"-18 Thread, 1-1/2" Long (package of 50) 91247A587 McMaster $8.64 1 $8.64 DT-209
407 Locknut, Serrated-Flange, Zinc-Plated, 5/16-18 Thread Size, 43/64" Flange Diameter (package of 100) 94831A030 McMaster $6.55 1 $6.55 DT-209
408 Zinc-Plated Steel SAE Flat Washer, 5/16" Screw Size, 0.344" ID, 0.688" OD (package of 190) 90126A030 McMaster $4.77 1 $4.77 DT-209
409 Steel Shim, Round, 0.025" Thick, 1-3/8" ID, 1-7/8" OD (package of 10) 3088A419 McMaster $7.30 1 $7.30 DT-202
410 Low-Strength Steel Thin Hex Nut, Black Oxide, 3/4"-16 Thread Size, 1-1/8" Wide, 5/16" High 90475A036 McMaster $2.05 1 $2.05 DT-200
411 Add-and-Connect Link for ANSI Number 41 Roller Chain 6261K262 McMaster $1.97 1 $1.97 DT-209
412 Locknut, Nylon-Insert , Zinc-Plated, 1/2"-13 Thread Size, 3/4" Wide, 19/32" High (package of 50) 90640A133 McMaster $9.42 1 $9.42 DT-204

500 Universal Black Padded Seat - two bolt FP24645 Farmall Parts.com $49.55 1 $49.55 DT-204

600 6.5 HP (212cc) OHV Horizontal Shaft Gas Engine EPA 69730 Harbor Freight $119.99 1 $119.99 DT-209

700 ASTM A1011 Hot Rolled Steel Sheet, 11 ga x 4'-0" x 5'-8" 01196 Discount Steel $101.80 1 $101.80 DT-100, DT-101, DT-102, DT-103
701 ASTM A513 1020 Drawn Over Mandrel (DOM) Steel Round Tube 2" OD x 1/8" wall x 2' long 13536 Discount Steel $16.01 1 $16.01 DT-100, DT-102, DT-103
702 ASTM A513 1020 Drawn Over Mandrel (DOM) Steel Round Tube 7/8" OD x 11ga wall x 2' long 12431 Discount Steel $10.61 1 $10.61 DT-100, DT-204
Alternate Suppliers:

Some of the components listed in the SOC can be purchased from other suppliers. You should
check with these alternate suppliers when any of the available items in the SOC are out of stock,
or when shipping costs are prohibitive due to your location. Also, at any time component prices
can change, and the alternate component may now be less expensive. Some of the suppliers are
Ebay sellers who may have limited quantity offerings, so although the item was available at the
time of this writing, they may not be available now (links are provided, but may not be active in
the future). Ebay is an excellent source to find components, and you can copy and paste the item
description directly from the SOC into the Ebay search field. Of course it is possible for any of
the suppliers to discontinue offering of any component at any time, which is why it is important
to be sure you can identify and locate ALL components before purchasing ANY components.

Remember as explained under the Approximate Cost section above, much money can be saved
by purchasing fasteners like nuts and bolts and raw materials at your local hardware store where
you will have the option of buying only the quantities you need as opposed to large quantity
packs that are often required when purchasing through McMaster Carr.

Below are a few alternate suppliers for some components (referenced by the item number in the
SOC.) With some diligent internet searching and time and patience, you may find many more
alternatives to these and all components.

 Item 200: PVC Sleeves: Flatout Drift Trikes, 10” PVC replacement sleeves,
 Item 200: PVC Sleeves: Madazz Trikes, http://madazztrikeshop.com/products/pvc
 Item 305: Disc Brake Adapter: ebay seller name “apar_ebikes” E-bike Double Hub Nut ISO 44mm dia
Thread Disc Brake Rotor Adaptor Mount Left Aluminum,
 Item 500: Seat: ebay seller name “reliableaftermarketpartsinc.” TS1200 New Universal Products Tractor
Vinyl Padded Pan Seat,
 Item 600: Engine: Surplus Center, part number 28-1849, http://www.surpluscenter.com/Engines/Gas-

Section 3: Available Sheet Metal Kit

As was mentioned in Section 2 under build notes, you will need to have a better than average
amount of mechanical aptitude and skill to build this go kart. Building this kart will also take a
significant amount of time. The prototype took approximately 30 hours to build utilizing CNC
plasma cut parts from the authorized suppler. The build time will be many times longer if
making all the parts by hand. Much time can be saved, and the need for some tools can be
eliminated by purchasing a sheet metal kit. The purchase of a kit will also eliminate the need to
order some raw materials. This trike utilizes many sheet metal components that need to be cut
into complex geometric shapes. These components can be purchased in kit form, pre-cut, from
an authorized independent supplier, or a local supplier of your choice as explained below.
Authorized Sheet Metal Kit Supplier:
The authorized supplier for the Drift Trike Industrial “MJG” is independent of the supplier of
these plans and therefore sets their own pricing. A complete sheet metal kit will include all
components in the build plans with the “/K” designation at the end of its part number, as
explained in Section 2 under build notes. The current estimated price is $250 plus shipping
charges. This price will vary with fluctuations in material costs. Please email
matthewjgolden@hotmail.com for current (exact) pricing, shipping costs, estimated delivery, and
purchasing details. Type “Drift Trike Kit” in the subject line. In the body of the email, please
specify which design theme (hearts, diamonds, etc.) you wish to purchase. By ordering the kit
from this supplier, be advised that you are agreeing to the same conditions expressed in Section
1. Note that this supplier provides CNC (Computer Numerical Control) plasma cut parts, and
some de-burring/clean-up of the parts will be required.
Spreadsheet of Components items 700, 701, and 702 do not need purchased if ordering a sheet
metal kit from the authorized supplier only. If you utilize the option to send your dxf files to a
local supplier (explained below), be advised that you will need to purchase and cut the tubing
that is listed as Spreadsheet of Components items 701 and 702.
If using the authorized supplier, it is not necessary to send the .dxf files, as the supplier will
always have the most up to date official files, in compliance with any and all revisions.
Remember, if you wish to also purchase the PVC Sleeves from this supplier to include that
inquiry in your email.

Local Sheet Metal Kit Supplier:

An option to purchasing the sheet metal components in kit form from the above supplier is to
have the components produced at a capable manufacturing house near you with a CNC
controlled plasma, laser, or waterjet cutter. This can be accomplished by using the .dxf files
included with the purchase of these plans. Each .dxf file contains all the geometry needed to
produce the parts for your kit. There is a separate file for each specific design theme (hearts,
diamonds, etc.). If choosing this option, you should forward only the file specific for your
design theme to your local supplier for a cost quotation and tell them the file contains the “flat
patterns.” Request that the components be made from 11 gauge sheet metal, or equivalent
material that is 1/8 inch thick. The figure below is an example of the flat pattern file you would
send to your local supplier. You will not be able to open the .dxf file yourself unless you have
CAD software that is capable of reading it. After receiving a cost quotation, add that cost to the
cost of all other components to produce a total cost, and ensure you have not exceeded your build
budget. Remember as stated in the first paragraph of Section 1, it is recommended that you
check the availability and cost of ALL components before purchasing ANY components. And
remember, if utilizing this option, you will not need to purchase SOC item 700, but you will still
need to purchase and cut SOC items 701 and 702.
Example flat pattern (shown for hexagon design theme).

Cut Your Own Parts:

Another option is to use the drawings included in these build plans to create your own parts by
purchasing large sheets of metal, and cutting the sheet metal by some other means, such as a
jigsaw, or a manually manipulated plasma cutter. This would be by far the most difficult and
time consuming of all options, would require many more tools, would require the transporting
and handling of a heavy and large sheet of steel, and likely would produce the least desirable
results. The fine cutting resolution needed to take advantage of the tab-in-slot construction
would most likely not be achievable, and the self-fixturing nature would be lost.

Advanced Option:
If you have access to CAD software such as AutoCad and others, and have the capability of
operating it, you can create your own design theme (example: skulls instead of diamonds, or
your favorite team logo) by modifying the supplied .dxf files using your CAD software.

Section 4: Construction
This section will include the drawings to make the components (weldment drawings). The
section will also include some photographs of the prototype during construction. Recall as
mentioned earlier, these plans may have some changes (improvements) to them from the
prototype so the pictures can vary slightly sometimes from the drawings. It is recommended that
you start by manufacturing the components directly from the drawings and use the photographs
as additional reference. Tack weld all components to ensure fit-up prior to final welding. After
all components are made using the weldment drawings, the assembly drawings will be used to
put the drift trike together.
The table below includes a list of all drawings included in these build plans.

Drawing List Table:

Drawing Description Drawing Number Drawing Type

Handlebar Weldment DT-100 Weldment
Drive Weldment DT-101 Weldment
Frame Weldment DT-102 Weldment
Fork Weldment DT-103 Weldment
Drift Trike Main Assembly DT-200 Assembly
Handlebar Assembly DT-201 Assembly
Front Wheel Assembly DT-202 Assembly
Fork Assembly DT-203 Assembly
Seat Assembly DT-204 Assembly
Sprocket Assembly DT-205 Assembly
Bearing Assembly DT-206 Assembly
Rear Wheel Assembly DT-207 Assembly
Rear Axle Assembly DT-208 Assembly
Drive Assembly DT-209 Assembly

The Deburring and Tab-in-Slot Construction sections below will provide helpful hints for a more
trouble free build with better fit-up and results. These sections are relevant to all of the
weldment drawings.

Whenever a sheet metal kit is supplied from a vendor who cuts your parts with a CNC plasma
cutter, you will likely need to debur them due to slag that can sometimes form during the cutting
process. You will be responsible for removing the slag, to create a smooth finish for fitting and
welding. This is most easily accomplished by knocking the larger pieces off with a screwdriver
or chisel, then using an angle grinder with a sanding flap wheel to finish it off. Deburring is less
likely needed when parts are cut using a CNC laser cutter, as the laser typically provides a better
quality edge, although sometimes at a higher cost. The figures below provide examples of
before and after deburring.
If CNC plasma cutting is used, some slag can be After deburring (slag
expected. You will be responsible for removing removed)

Tab-in-Slot Construction:
The unique feature of the Drift Trike Industrial’s construction is the tab-in-slot design, which
allows the components to mostly self-fixture to simplify the construction and welding process.
Mating parts contain either a “tab” or a “slot” (or sometimes both). This feature avoids the need
to measure the proper location and orientation of most parts. The feature also allows the
components to better remain in place during tack welding, using right angle magnets and clamps
to assist in the welding process.
In order to take full advantage of the tab-in-slot design, you must first ensure all parts are
deburred as explained in the above section. Then you must make sure the tab fully engages the
slot, such that the two parts rest completely against each other between the intended edge and the
intended surface. Failure to do so will make for weldments that may become out of square,
difficult to fit together, difficult to clamp, and weaker after welding.
If the two parts do not fully rest against each other along the intended edge, the likely culprit is a
fillet that is left at the root of the tab due to the plasma cutting process. If the parts are laser cut,
there will be less of a chance for a fillet issue. The fillet can be easily removed using either a flat
file, or an angle grinder with a cutting wheel.
See the illustrations of an improper and proper tab-in-slot mating below for further clarification.
Use the exploded views in each drawing to determine which tabs engage which slots. Observe
the guide lines that lead from the tab of one component to the slot of the other. In most cases this
will be self-explanatory, and the pieces will only fit together one way.
Improper tab-in-slot connection:

Parts do not rest completely against each other along

the intended edge and the intended surface, leaving a
Fillets must be removed gap because the fillets interfere with the slot opening.


Proper tab-in-slot connection:

Both parts rest completely against each other

along the intended edge and the intended
surface. (No Gap).

Intended edge Tab Slot Intended surface

Tab-in-slot guidelines

Typical exploded view

Now, start by manufacturing all of the weldments (drawings (DT-100 through DT-103)). After
each drawing or a group of drawings of the components, there will be a page or two showing
photos of the prototype build to provide additional clarity, and helpful hints for your build.
Drawing DT-100
Insert tab-in-slot components,
Item 2 ensuring proper engagement Item 4
of parts as specified in Tab-in
Slot section.

Item 3

Item 1
Temporarily slide tube (item 3) in place
as shown to assist in the fixturing of Use paint marker or sharpie marker to
Debur all parts according to Center item 2 in hole above items 1, 2, and 4. Then tack weld all lay out weld bead lengths for a nice
the Deburring Section. item 1 as shown items except item 3. even look.

Remove item 3, and continue stitch welding

of items 1 and 4 together in the areas that
are under the tube. Slide item 3 back in
place, and weld to items 1 and 4 inside the
tube as shown. Now also weld item 3 to
items 1 and 4 at the other end of the tube.

Complete welding and clean welds as shown

Weld tube (item 3) to items 1
and 4 on both ends as shown
Drawing DT-101

Lay out your parts to ensure you have all Begin dry fitting parts as shown above. Insert tab-in- Use magnetic weld angles to hold the items while tack
components. Arrange them as they are in the slot components, ensuring proper engagement of parts welding if available. Otherwise, use a small square. A
exploded view as shown in drawing DT-101 as specified in Tab-in Slot section. set of helper hands can also be used.

Complete stitch welding of the interior Complete stitch welding of the exterior. Use
components as shown before flipping the paint marker or sharpie marker to lay out weld
weldment over. bead lengths for a nice even look.
Drawing DT-102

Item 2

Item 5

Lay out your parts to ensure you have all Begin by welding all of the frame spacers (item 2) to the frame side You may make final welds in this area as shown, as this area will be
components. Debur all parts according to the plates (item 5). Insert tab-in-slot components, ensuring proper difficult to access with your welder later.
Deburring Section. engagement of parts as specified in Tab-in Slot section. Use
magnetic weld angles or a square when tack welding in place.

Add the other frame side plate as shown. Use clamps

to hold in place. Be sure to use a square in several
areas along the curvature to ensure the side plates are Clamp item 13 to items 5 as shown. Stitch weld along Slide item 6 into the long slots of item 5. Then install rib (item 11),
properly aligned. both edges. then tube, (item 10). Tack weld items in place.

Item 10 Item 11
Item 5

Item 6

Item 13
Measure down 1 inch from
the top of the tube and Item 7
make a sharpie mark. Use Item 7
this mark and the marks
from the previous photo to Item 3
align the tube (item 7) Item 5
properly with the frame
side plates (items 5).

Item 7

Use a framing square and a tape measure to measure Clamp the items in place and tack weld. Tack weld the upper frame spine (item 3) to the
back 1 inch on both sides of the steering tube (item 7). steering tube (item 7) as shown.
Make two marks indicating the center of the tube.

Use clamps to bend and form the upper frame spine (item 3) along the When arriving at the bottom, allow item 3 to overlap the previously Measure (or locate as preferred) the upper cup holder (item 8). Use a
contour of the frame side plates (item 5). Make continuous welds all welded item 13. Item 3 will be made intentionally too long to take up small level to tack weld in place, then continuous weld along the top.
along the seam where items 3 and 5 meet. Continue to move the clamps variations in fabrication. Use a sharpie marker to mark item 3 where it will With item 8 welded in place, measure down 3.625 inches (or your
down along the curvature, while welding the seam behind. These need cut in order to butt flush against item 13 when clamped down. Use preferred location) and install the lower cup holder (item 9). Use a level
continuous welds will be blended later for a smooth box frame look. an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel to cut item 3, and then weld. to ensure proper alignment, then continuous weld for strength.

Item 3 Item 5

Continuous welds

Item 8
Continuous welds
Item 13 Item 3

Item 9
Item 4
Item 6
Item 1

Item 4

Item 5

Start the upper end of the lower underside spine (item 4) by welding the Using the same clamping and welding technique as described above, form Completed frame weldment per drawing DT-102
end into the pocket created by items 5, 6, and 2. One end of item 4 has item 4 along the curvature, working your way to the bottom of the frame.
cuts to narrow its width. This is the end shown here, and should be the All welds to be continuous. Grind and blend welds using the angle grinder
only end that fits in the pocket. with a sanding flapper wheel. Fit, weld, and finish item 1 in the same
Drawing DT-103

1 inch
Item 8

Item 8
Item 1

Lay out your parts to ensure you have all Begin by grinding away any plating on the bolt in the area where welding will occur to ensure a quality weld. This would be the head area, and a length
components. Debur all parts according to the along the bolt of about 1 inch. Weld the steering bolt (item 8) to the large top plate (item 1) as shown. Be sure the bolt head is squarely and firmly
Deburring Section. seated on item 1, so that it is perpendicular to item 1 in all planes.

Turn the weldment of items 5 and 6 from the previous photo upside down and slide over the bolt. Note the correct and incorrect orientation using the
Weld the small top plate (item 5) and the photos below. Now weld the two assemblies together by welding the unwelded end of the tube (item 6) to the large top plate (item 1). When looking
spacer tube (item 6) together as shown. straight down on the parts, the edges should be flush, and not sticking out to one side.

Weldment of Weldment of
Item 5 and 6 Item 1 and 8

Item 6
Item 5
Incorrect Correct
Item 2

Item 7

Insert tab-in-slot components, ensuring proper engagement of Use clamps to install and hold the weldment from the previous Use clamps to install and hold the opposite end plate to the welded
parts as specified in Tab-in Slot section. Use magnetic weld angles page into two fork side plates and end plate, engaging the tab in assembly as shown.
or a square when tack welding in place. Make sure the edges of the the welded assembly with the slot in the end plate. Tack weld.
two fork side plates (items 2 and 7) are in alignment as confirmed
by the use of a small framing square.

Before completing anything other than tack welds, install the front It is imperative that the weld be ground completely flush with the
wheel rim (drawing DT-202 item 1, SOC item 300 to ensure the Weld the bolt (item 8) to the small top plate (item 5) as shown to plate, so that the steering bearing (drawing DT-200 item 3, SOC
spacing/width of the fork is correct. provide additional support for the steering bolt/shaft. item 403) rests all the way down on item 5.

Apply this weld

Front wheel rim
Item 5
Grind this flush

Steering bearing
Section 5: Assembly

This section will include all the assembly drawings. The Main Assembly (drawing DT-200) must be completed last, as all other assemblies and weldments are required in order to complete it. So, therefore begin working through
each of the other assembly drawings, assembling components as directed on the drawings. The only welding to be conducted now is to connect the Drive Assembly (drawing DT-209) to the remainder of the completed vehicle. The
reason for this is to allow the builder to position the Seat Assembly (drawing DT-204) in the best ergonomic position, then locate and weld the Drive Assembly (drawing DT-209), front to rear, such that there is sufficient clearance
behind the seat. For this reason, there will be temporary or partial assemblies that will occur prior to painting. Some disassembly will be required for painting. Follow the instructions in the order they appear below.

BMI Parts Kit:

BMI Karts provides the drift trike axle kit containing all of the F (qty of 2)
components you see depicted. Many of the drawings you will be
referencing in this section will contain components from this kit.
The kit is located on the Spreadsheet of Components as item 102, F (qty of 2)
F (qty of 2)
with BMI part number 333020. But since the kit contains so
many components under a single part number, there was a need to
break the single part number down into the smaller individual
components in order to make clear drawings. In many of the
drawings that follow, you will see in the Bill of Material, a letter
designation for these individual components. For example, you
will see part number BMI_333020-D/102 as item 3 in the BOM
for drawing DT-208. This means that the item being referred to is
a “wheel hub” in this case, designated with the “-D”. Refer to the
A (qty of 1)
photo on the right to identify all letter designations.
C (qty of 1)
Q (qty of 1)
L (qty of 1) P (qty of 6)

O (qty of 6)
R (qty of 1)
M (qty of 6)

H (qty of 2)

N (qty of 6)

D (qty of 2)
G (qty of 4) I (qty of 4) B (qty of 1) K (qty of 2) J (qty of 2)
Front Wheel Assembly: Drawing DT-202
Item 5

Item 1

Item 2

Item 3 Item 7
Item 4

Item 8 Item 6
Item 2 (under the rotor)
Item 2 Item 3 Item 6
Item 7

The components necessary to assemble the Front Wheel Assembly One side of the hub of the rim (item 1) will have a threaded boss. This is The Disc Brake Adapter Nut (item 2) threads onto the boss on the wheel and
(drawing DT-202) are shown above. Assemble the components as you the side in which you will assemble the brake rotor (item 3) using the has the rotor fastened to it as shown below. During prototype construction,
would a standard bicycle wheel. above hardware. Item 2 will thread onto this boss. it was observed that there was interference between the rotor and the boss
on the wheel. It is unclear why this occurred, or if it is an isolated incident, as
bicycle parts are generally standardized. If this is the case in your build, you
These items used in must grind the rotor in the small interference area (where shown with the
These items used in drawing DT-203
Item 1 pencil point) to allow the rotor to clear the hub, allowing item 2 to fully seat.
drawing DT-201

Item 2
Item 7

Item 6

These items used in

drawing DT-202 Item 3

Shown in the photo above is the brake kit, which is SOC item 304. Like the You may need a certain quantity of spacers (item 7) or no spacers, in order
BMI Drift Trike Axle Kit, this kit has components that will be utilized across to ensure the rotor is able to align with the brake caliper when installing the
multiple assemblies. However the number of components is minimal, so wheel into the fork. Start with no spacers and trial fit the wheel in the fork
no lettering system was assigned. assembly. The fork assembly (drawing DT-203 is detailed in the pages
Fork Assembly: Drawing DT-203
Item 3

Item 4
Cut these mounting screws
(item 4) to proper length to
avoid rotor interference.

Start by installing the brake caliper (item 3) that is part of the brake kit using The mounting screws are too long for this application; therefore you will have Use the proper quantity of spacers/shims (drawing DT-202 item 7)
the included hardware. Note that the entire caliper is on the inside of the fork to shorten these or they will interfere with the brake rotor as indicated by the behind the Disc Brake Adapter Nut (drawing DT-202 item 2) to align
(with the exception of the mounting screws (item 4), of course). pencil tip. A disc grinder with a cut off wheel will work for this, or a hacksaw, the brake rotor between the disc pads as shown.
or a bench grinder.

Drawing DT-202, item 7

The photo above shows the completed fork assembly. Although shown here, install
the brake cable at final assembly only, as this is a temporary assembly.
Rear Wheel Assembly: Drawing DT-207
Item 2

Item 1

Put tire (item 1) on a workbench. Be sure to put the side of the tire that Spread liquid dish soap around the bead of the tire and underside of the Use a multitude of clamps and straps to force the bead of the tire down
you want to be seen the most (on the outside of the trike) facing up. Push rim as shown. over the rim. If you have a local tire shop willing to seat these tires, which
rim (item 2) into the tire as shown. can be a convenient option as this was found to be fairly difficult to
Inflate the tire to “seat” the tire bead on the rim on both sides as seen on
the right of the photo below. DO NOT OVERINFLATE TIRES! These wheels Remove the valve guts from the valve stem to allow the tire to fully After the sleeve is about half way down over the tire, flip the assembly
will still be used for a temporary assembly at this point, so you may install collapse. Squeeze the tire all around in order to get the PVC sleeve started over and use a smooth tipped tire iron or pry bar to evenly pry the tire
the PVC sleeves now or sometime in the future. The installation is shown down over the tire. Push firmly and evenly around the circumference of upward within the sleeve. At this point you can inflate the tire and roll it
here. Sand item 3 on the inside circumference as shown to eliminate any the sleeve, working the sleeve down the tire. There are YouTube videos along the floor to check for evenness. Deflate adjust, and re-inflate as
sharp edges that will make installation more difficult. that you can find that demonstrate this concept if more clarity is needed. many times as necessary to make a nice straight installation.

Item 3
Bearing Assembly: Drawing DT-206

Item 2 Item 1
Rear Axle Assembly: Drawing DT-208
Drive Assembly: Drawing DT-209
Temporary Drive Assembly
Rear Wheel Assembly (drawing DT-207)

Recall that at this point, you are still doing a

temporary assembly of some components. The
temporary assembly step is necessary to locate
and weld the drive assembly in the correct
location that best fits the rider. Therefore, in this Item 1
step you will only be using enough components
from drawings DT-208 and DT-209 to install the
wheels so that you can sit on the unit and adjust
your seat and drive clearances.

Drive Weldment (drawing DT-101)

Place the drive weldment that you created using drawing DT-101 upside down on a workbench. Install the axle (drawing DT-208 item 1) through the openings in the ribs and endplates as
shown. Install the bearing mounting plate (drawing DT-208 item 9) and the bearing assembly (drawing DT-206 complete) as shown. Use the hardware items (DT-208 items 12 and 13) to
sandwich the bearing mounting plate and the bearing assembly to the endplate of the weldment in the order shown. Install the wheel mounting studs (drawing DT-208 item 10) into the
wheel hub (drawing DT-208 item 3) and install on the axle. Next install the rear wheel assembly you created using drawing DT-207, and secure with the wheel mounting nuts (drawing DT-208
item 11). Repeat for both ends of the axle.

Item 9

Item 10
Item 12 Item 1

Bearing Assembly (drawing DT-206) Item 3 Item 13

Handlebar Assembly: Drawing DT-201
Item 4 Swaged lead ball

Cylindrical lead end

“Pancake” lead end

Item 5

Pocket in black plastic

Brass barrel

As mentioned in drawing DT-201, the throttle cable will likely be too short, due to the long length of the vehicle, so you will be required to modify the Now look at both ends of the new, longer cable (item 5). You will notice that
assembly to add a longer cable and conduit. Start by removing the two Philips head screws (in item 4) to open the assembly as shown above. Note the one end has a cylindrical swaged lead shape, that is closer to a ball shape and
brass barrel that surrounds the swaged lead ball on the end of the cable is embedded in a pocket in the black plastic piece. will fit better in the brass barrel, and one has a more “pancake” shaped end.

Next you will need to cut the “pancake” end off of the new, longer cable Thread the cut end of the cable down through the components as shown to reassemble the new, longer throttle assembly. Note, you will be utilizing the
(item 5). Be sure to cut the correct end off! new longer cable conduit as well (item 6)

Item 6
Item 6

“Pancake” lead end

Item 5
Item 5
The photo below shows the components necessary to assemble the handlebar (drawing DT-201). Although Install all items onto the handlebar weldment you created using drawing DT-100. Do not worry about the final
shown painted in the photo, you may elect to hold off on painting until later, when you can paint all components adjustment of these at this point; they can be fine-tuned later. IMPORTANT NOTE: If you have not yet painted
at the same time. Note that the brake lever and cable (item 2) are part of the kit furnished as SOC item 304, and your weldment, do not install the hand grip on the brake side, as it will be difficult or impossible to remove. If you
you will be using only part of that kit during this assembly. Note also that the hand grip on the brake side (item 3) have painted your weldment, and plan on this being a permanent assembly, then add some liquid dish soap to the
comes as part of the throttle with cable (item 4). inside of the grip to assist with assembly.

Handle bar Weldment (drawing DT-101)

Item 4

Item 1

Item 2

Item 3
Seat Assembly: Drawing DT-204

Item 1 Item 2 Item 3

Temporary Main Assembly for Locating Drive, and Welding of the Drive Weldment (No Drawing)
Drawing DT-200, Item 10

Handlebar Assembly (drawing DT-201)

Frame Weldment (drawing DT-102)

Fork Assembly (drawing DT-103)

Drawing DT-200, Item 3

Drawing DT-200, Item 4

Although this temporary main assembly has not formal drawing, you should Install the Fork Assembly that you created using drawing DT-203 up through Set the Handlebar Assembly that you created using drawing DT-201 over the
refer to the Main Assembly drawing DT-200 below as a reference right now. the two steering bearings. Install the jam nut (drawing DT-200 item 10) as steering bolt. Install the locking nut (drawing DT-200 item 4) using a socket
Start out by tapping the steering bearings (drawing DT-200 item 3) into the shown. Tighten to remove all play and slop from the fork assembly. DO and ratchet. Don’t be concerned with handlebar alignment at this time, and
top and bottom steering tube in the frame weldment that you created using NOT OVERTIGHTEN or you could damage the bearings. At final assembly just snug the assembly for now. At final assembly you will need to make this
drawing DT-102. If you choose to leave the bearings in place, you will need you will use a liquid thread locker here, but not during this temporary nut extremely tight.
to mask them before painting. assembly.

Slide the Temporary Drive Assembly, which you created above, over the Set the engine (drawing DT-209 item 2) on top of the Temporary Drive Assembly in the most forward location as possible within the mounting slots. (You
rectangular box end of the frame weldment. may loosely install a bolt or two if you’d like). Install the Seat Assembly (drawing DT-204) temporarily. Move the seat assembly and the drive assembly
forward and back, and sit on the trike in the various positions until you determine the best seat ergonomic location. Then be sure to allow a safe clearance
between the seat and the engine and moving parts. Clamp the temporary drive assembly to the frame as shown and mark the location with a sharpie.

Drawing DT-209, Item 2 Seat Assembly (drawing DT-204)




Now move to the front side of the temporary drive assembly, and make a You can remove the rear wheels at this point to reduce the risk of damage from weld splatter. Make sure the Drive Weldment is located front to back
sharpie mark on the front as shown. within both sharpie marks. First level the front half of the trike on your workbench, and then level the drive weldment. Use shims if necessary to ensure
both items are level, which makes them parallel. Clamp in place and weld continuously as shown below.
Painting (No Drawing)
Remove the axle and all drive components from the Temporary Drive Assembly,
and at this point, you should have an assembly that looks like the photo below.
Break this assembly down into the Fork Weldment (make it look exactly like
drawing DT-103), Handlebar Weldment (make it look like drawing DT-100) and
the Frame Weldment/Drive Weldment (drawings DT-102 and DT-101)
Hang the Fork Weldment
and the Handlebar
Weldment using scrap
wire to make it easy to
paint, whether brushing,
rolling, or spraying. Be
sure to mask off the
exposed bolt shaft. Paint
on the shaft will interfere
with assembly in the
bearings. In the frame
Weldment below, be sure
to mask off the steering
bearings as well.

Mask steering bolt shaft

The prototype was painted

Mask steering bearings with Rust Oleum Hammered
Finish, Silver. This paint is
available in both a 1 quart
can, and also in spray cans.
The hammered finish variety
is available in a few colors.
This paint goes on thick to
cover flaws, dries fast, and is
very durable. The
hammered finish promotes
the “industrial” look. Of
course you are encouraged
to paint with whatever you
like to fully customize your
Sprocket Assembly: Drawing DT-205
While the painted items are drying, you can begin assembling again. Below are all the components necessary to build the Sprocket Assembly (drawing DT-205). Start by cutting the key stock (item
3) to length. You can do this easily using a vice, and your angle grinder with a cut off wheel. Use vice grips or pliers to grasp the key stock if a vice is not available. The length should be equal to,
or just very slightly less, than the length of the key slot in the hub. Assemble the sprocket as shown. Evenly tighten the bolts (item 4) and nuts (item 5) in a cross pattern as if you were changing
the tire on your car. Tape the key to the assembly for now so it is not misplaced. Save the remaining portion of the key stock, as it will be needed again soon.

Item 5

Item 4

Cut key stock (item 3) to

length as described above Item 1

Item 3
Item 2

CAUTION: This sprocket was included as

part of a Drift Trike Axle Kit as explained
previously in this document. This suggests
that the parts are well suited to be used
together. However, this large of a sprocket
diameter results in a very low ground
clearance between the chain and the road
surface. Any raised bumps in the road
could cause severe damage to your
sprocket, chain, axle (not to mention your
spine). If this concerns you, you may wish
Very low ground clearance to use a smaller diameter sprocket in place
of the one supplied in the kit.
Axle Assembly: Drawing DT-208
Drive Assembly: Drawing DT-209
Item 10 Item 8

Item 9

Item 7
Item 3

Item 13 Item 12

At this point you can begin to assemble the Drive Assembly for the final Just as during the temporary drive assembly, slide the axle (item 1) through Tighten the fasteners that sandwich items 7 & 9 to the drive weldment.
time. Start by installing the screw from The BMI Karts Drift Trike Axle Kit, the openings in the drive weldment ribs and end plate. Install the bearing Temporarily remove the wheel hub, and measure the exposed shaft from the
part number BMI_333020-D/102 (SOC item 102) into the wheel hub mounting plate (item 9), the bearing assembly (item 7) shaft collars (item edge of the bearing to the end of the shaft. Compare the measurements on
(drawing DT-208 item 3) as shown above. Then install 3 wheel mounting 8), hardware (items 12 & 13), the Sprocket Assembly (item 2), and the both ends of the shaft and use a rubber mallet (or a regular hammer and a
studs (drawing DT-208 item 10) as shown. Next, cut a piece of key stock assembled wheel hub from the previous step. Use the exploded view in block of wood) to center the shaft, by leaving an even amount on each end.
(drawing DT-208 item 6) to a length equal to or slightly less than the length drawing DT-208 and the surrounding photos to ensure the components are Lock the shaft in place by tightening the set screws on the bearings.
of the key slot in item 3. in the right order.

Reinstall the wheel hub with the key stock. Measure about a 1/2 inch gap
Use the photo below to compare against the exploded view. Install the locking nut (item 4) and tighten.
between the bearing and the hub as shown. Lock down the hub.

Item 4
Item 2
Item 11

Item 4

Install the wheels (drawing DT-208, item 5) using the 3 wheel mounting Now we will start referring to the Drive Assembly (drawing DT-209). Align the internal key with the key slot on the shaft and push the clutch all
nuts (drawing DT-208, item 11). Remove the key that was supplied with the engine (drawing DT-209, item the way back on the engine shaft. Tighten the set screw.
2), as it will not be necessary. The Clutch (drawing DT-209, item 4) has an
Set the engine (item 2) on the drive weldment. Add engine mounting
internal key built in.
hardware (items 8, 9, 10) through the engine flange and the slots in the
weldment but do not fully tighten. Use a small framing square to ensure With the engine all the way forward in the mounting slots, wrap the chain around both sprockets. Locate the proper location to split the chain. Keep in
the sprocket faces are aligned as shown below. If necessary, move the mind that you also have the option to use the add-to-connect link (item 7) if necessary. Avoid using item 7 if possible as it may have reduced strength.
sprocket assembly left or right along the axle.

Align sprocket faces

Item 10

Item 9

Item 8
Reinstall the chain using the master link (item 6). Slide the engine all the way back in the slots, apply tension to
the chain, and tighten the engine mounting hardware. If the engine runs out of adjustment before the chain is
Remove the chain and take it to a work area. Separate the chain at the mark using a chain separating tool if
tight enough, you can use the add-to-connect link (item 7), or add shims (such as flat washers) under the
you have one. Otherwise, use your angle grinder to grind the surface of the chain pins, and punch them
through with a hammer and punch as shown below.

Chain separating tool

Item 6
Main Assembly: Drawing DT-200
Item 10
Item 4

Item 3

Now that all assemblies have been completed, it is time to complete the
Now install the handle bar assembly you created using drawing DT-201. Place the handlebar over the exposed bolt shaft. Install the steering locknut
Main Assembly using drawing DT-200. Start by reassembling the Fork
(item 4). Hold the handlebar perpendicular to the front wheel and lock it in position by tightening nut (item 4) using a socket and ratchet as shown. Be
Assembly (drawing DT-203) if you haven’t already done so. If not still
sure to tighten item 4 extremely tight.
installed from the temporary assembly, install the steering bearings (item
3) Slide the steering bolt up through both steering bearings. Install the
.steering jam nut (item 10) using liquid thread locker. Tighten the nut tight
enough to remove any play from the front end, but be careful not to
destroy the bearings.

Route the throttle cable through the design pattern holes in the frame (in Use a rubber hammer to tap 2 decorative tube caps (item 7) into the end
this case, hexagons). See photos below for routing at the rear end of your Connect the lower end of the brake cable (item 9) to the caliper as shown. of the foot rests, and 1 covering the steering nut on the handlebar.
throttle cable

Item 9 Item 7
Item 7

Item 6

Throttle cable routing

Item 5
Item 1

Item 7 Item 2
Item 8

The photo above shows most items of the Bill of Material items for the Main Assembly, drawing DT-200 Rear end throttle cable routing is as shown from the underside.

To complete the throttle

hookup, insert the end of
Conduit bracket the conduit into the
bracket provided on the
engine. Insert the plain
end of the cable through
Plain end of the cable
the swiveling connector
provided, and fasten the
screw. You will need to
loosen the locknut to
Loosen this locknut allow the throttle spring to
return the throttle back to
idle. Adjust as needed to
obtain full throttle range,
and to ensure a properly
operating throttle.
Swiveling connector
Throttle cable routing
Photo Gallery: Use these photos as additional reference for your build.
Section 6: Operation

The controls for the Drift Trike include the handlebar to steer left and right, a brake, and a throttle. A kill switch is not shown, but is
highly recommended and should be located on the handlebar or somewhere it is easily accessible in an emergency or panic situation. Seat
belts are not shown, but are also highly recommended. The Drift Trike is only powered in the forward direction. This vehicle can turn
very sharply, and with the PVC covered wheels can quickly lose traction causing the vehicle to slide or spin out. Be careful of roll overs.
Drive the Drift Trike only on smooth surfaces. Keep feet on foot rests at all times. Always wear a helmet, boots, and other appropriate
safety gear. See the photo below for details of the controls.

Brake Handlebar Throttle

Foot rest Foot rest

Cup holder
Note, a kill switch with
tether, and seat belts are
not shown but are highly
recommended. View from rider position

Section 7: Maintenance
Follow the maintenance instructions included with the components purchased. Maintain proper chain tension and lubricate
chain as needed. Maintain engine oil level. Maintain proper tire inflation. Check that tires and brake pads are in good
condition and replace when necessary.

Good luck and have fun building your own customized Drift Trike Industrial! Consider building our other vehicle designs:

The Personal Tracked Vehicle (PTV) The Magic Carpet The Mantis

(end of document) Revision B, May 18, 2015. This document is protected by international copyright laws and therefore
cannot be forwarded in the form of an email or by any other means, and cannot be resold. This design is intended to be
used by the hobbyist to build a drift trike for their own use only. These plans or this design cannot be used for production
of these vehicles in quantities and offered for sale without written consent of the supplier of these plans. The Drift Trike
Industrial name and logo cannot be used without written consent of the inventor.