Вы находитесь на странице: 1из 4

Essay

Big Food, Food Systems, and Global Health


David Stuckler1,2*, Marion Nestle3,4
1 Department of Sociology, University of Cambridge, Cambridge, United Kingdom, 2 Department of Public Health & Policy, London School of Hygiene & Tropical
Medicine, London, United Kingdom, 3 Department of Nutrition, Food Studies, and Public Health, New York University, New York, New York, United States of America,
4 Department of Nutritional Sciences, Cornell University, Ithaca, New York, United States of America

This article was commissioned for the place of small producers but an oligopoly. trition—to local partners [24]. The extent
PLoS Medicine series on Big Food that What people eat is increasingly driven by a of these benefits is debatable, however, in
examines the activities and influence of the few multinational food companies [12]. view of negative effects on farmers and on
food and beverage industry in the health Virtually all growth in Big Food’s sales domestic producers and food prices [25].
arena. occurs in developing countries [13] (see
Figure 1). The saturation of markets in Public Health Response to Big
As the PLoS Medicine series on Big Food developed countries [14], along with the Food: A Failure to Act
(www.ploscollections.org/bigfood) kicks lure of the 20% of income people spend on
off, let’s begin this Essay with a blunt average on food globally, has stimulated Public health professionals have been
conclusion: Global food systems are not Big Food to seek global expansion. Its rapid slow to respond to such nutritional threats
entry into markets in low- and middle- in developed countries and even slower
meeting the world’s dietary needs [1].
income countries (LMICs) is a result of still in developing countries. Thanks to
About one billion people are hungry, while
mass-marketing campaigns and foreign insights from tobacco company docu-
two billion people are overweight [2].
investment, principally through takeovers ments, we have learned a great deal about
India, for example, is experiencing rises in
of domestic food companies [15]. Trade how this industry sought to avoid or flout
both: since 1995 an additional 65 million
plays a minimal role and accounts for only public health interventions that might
people are malnourished, and one in five
about 6% of global processed food sales threaten their profits. We now have
adults is now overweight [3,4]. This
[15]. Global producers are the main reason considerable evidence that food and bev-
coexistence of food insecurity and obesity
why the ‘‘nutrition transition’’ from tradi- erage companies use similar tactics to
may seem like a paradox [5], but over-
tional, simple diets to highly processed undermine public health responses such
and undernutrition reflect two facets of
foods is accelerating [16,17]. as taxation and regulation [26,27,28,29],
malnutrition [6]. Underlying both is a
Big Food is a driving force behind the an unsurprising observation given the
common factor: food systems are not
global rise in consumption of sugar- flows of people, funds, and activities
driven to deliver optimal human diets
sweetened beverages (SSBs) and processed between Big Tobacco and Big Food. Yet
but to maximize profits. For people living
foods enriched in salt, sugar, and fat [13]. the public health response to Big Food has
in poverty, this means either exclusion
Increasing consumption of Big Food’s been minimal.
from development (and consequent food
products tracks closely with rising levels We can think of multiple reasons for the
insecurity) or eating low-cost, highly pro-
of obesity and diabetes [18]. Evidence failure to act [30]. One is the belated
cessed foods lacking in nutrition and rich
shows that SSBs are major contributors to recognition of the importance of obesity to
in sugar, salt, and saturated fats (and
childhood obesity [19,20], as well as to the burden of disease in LMICs [13]. The
consequent overweight and obesity).
long-term weight-gain, type 2 diabetes, 2011 Political Declaration of the United
To understand who is responsible for
and cardiovascular disease [21,22]. Stud- Nations High-Level Meeting on Prevention
these nutritional failures, it is first necessary
ies also link frequent consumption of and Control of Non-communicable Diseas-
to ask: Who rules global food systems? By and
highly processed foods with weight gain es (NCDs) recognized the urgent case for
large it’s ‘‘Big Food,’’ by which we refer to
and associated diseases [23]. addressing the major avoidable causes of
multinational food and beverage companies
Of course, Big Food may also bring death and disability [31], but did not even
with huge and concentrated market power
benefits—improved economic perfor- mention the roles of agribusiness and
[7,8]. In the United States, the ten largest
mance through increased technology and processed foods in obesity. Despite evi-
food companies control over half of all food
know-how and reduced risks of undernu- dence to the contrary, some development
sales [9] and worldwide this proportion is
about 15% and rising. More than half of
global soft drinks are produced by large Citation: Stuckler D, Nestle M (2012) Big Food, Food Systems, and Global Health. PLoS Med 9(6): e1001242.
doi:10.1371/journal.pmed.1001242
multinational companies, mainly Coca-
Cola and PepsiCo [10]. Three-fourths of Published June 19, 2012
world food sales involve processed foods, for Copyright: ß 2012 Stuckler, Nestle. This is an open-access article distributed under the terms of the Creative
Commons Attribution License, which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium,
which the largest manufacturers hold over a provided the original author and source are credited.
third of the global market [11]. The world’s
Funding: No specific funding was received for writing this article.
food system is not a competitive market-
Competing Interests: MN and DS are the guest editors of the PLoS Medicine series on Big Food.
Abbreviations: LMIC, low- and middle-income country; SSB, sugar-sweetened beverage
The Essay section contains opinion pieces on topics
of broad interest to a general medical audience. * E-mail: ds450@cam.ac.uk
Provenance: Commissioned; not externally peer reviewed.

PLoS Medicine | www.plosmedicine.org 1 June 2012 | Volume 9 | Issue 6 | e1001242


Engaging with Big Food—Three has a legal mandate to maximize wealth
Views for shareholders. We also see no obvious,
established, or legitimate mechanism
We see three possible ways to view this through which public health professionals
debate. The first favors voluntary self- might increase Big Food’s profits.
regulation, and requires no further engage- Big Food attains profit by expanding
ment by the public health community. markets to reach more people, increasing
Those who share this view argue that people’s sense of hunger so that they buy
market forces will self-correct the negative more food, and increasing profit margins
externalities resulting from higher intake of through encouraging consumption of
risky commodities. Informed individuals, products with higher price/cost surpluses
they say, will choose whether to eat [28–31,37]. Industry achieves these goals
unhealthy foods and need not be subjected through food processing and marketing,
to public health paternalism. On this basis, and we are aware of no evidence for
UN secretary-general Ban Ki Moon urged health gains through partnerships in either
industry to be more responsible: ‘‘I espe- domain. Although in theory minimal
cially call on corporations that profit from processing of foods can improve nutrition-
selling processed foods to children to act al content, in practice most processing is
with the utmost integrity. I refer not only to done so to increase palatability, shelf-life,
food manufacturers, but also the media, and transportability, processes that reduce
marketing and advertising companies that nutritional quality. Processed foods are not
play central roles in these enterprises’’ [35]. necessary for survival, and few individuals
Similarly, the UK Health Minister recently are sufficiently well-informed or even
said: ‘‘the food and drinks industry should capable of overcoming marketing and cost
be seen, not just as part of the problem, but hurdles [38]. Big Food companies have
part of the solution…An emphasis on the resources to recruit leading nutritional
prevention, physical activity and personal scientists and experts to guide product
and corporate responsibility could, along- development and reformulation, leaving
side unified Government action, make a big the role of public health advisors uncer-
Figure 1. Growth of Big Food and Big difference’’ [36]. tain.
Tobacco sales in developing countries: The second view favors partnerships with
An example. Shaded blue line is developed
To promote health, industry would
countries, dashed grey line is developing industry. Public health advocates who hold need to make and market healthier foods
countries. Source: Passport Global Market this view may take jobs with industry in so as to shift consumption away from
Information Database: EuroMonitor Interna- order to make positive changes from within, highly processed, unhealthy foods. Yet,
tional, 2011 [12]. or actively seek partnerships and alliances such healthier foods are inherently less
doi:10.1371/journal.pmed.1001242.g001 with food companies. Food, they say, is not profitable. The only ways the industry
tobacco. Whereas tobacco is demonstrably could preserve profit is either to under-
harmful in all forms and levels of consump- mine public health attempts to tax and
agencies continue to view obesity as a tion, food is not. We can live without regulate or to get people to eat more
‘‘disease of affluence’’ and a sign of progress tobacco, but we all must eat. Therefore, this healthy food while continuing to eat
in combating undernutrition [32]. view holds that we must work with Big Food profitable unhealthy foods [33,39]. Nei-
A more uncomfortable reason is that to make healthier products and market ther is desirable from a nutritional
action requires tackling vested interests, them more responsibly. standpoint. Whereas industry support
especially the powerful Big Food compa- The third approach is critical of both. It for research might be seen as one place
nies with strong ties to and influence over recognizes the inherent conflicts of interest to align interests, studies funded by
national governments. This is difficult between corporations that profit from industry are 4- to 8-fold more likely to
terrain for many public health scientists. unhealthy food and public health collab- support conclusions favorable to the
It took five decades after the initial studies orations. Because growth in profit is the industry [40].
linking tobacco and cancer for effective primary goal of corporations, self-regula- Our second reason to support the
public health policies to be put in place, tion and working from within are doomed critical view has to do with the ‘‘precau-
with enormous cost to human health. to fail. Most proponents of this viewpoint tionary principle’’ [41]. Because it is
Must we wait five decades to respond to support public regulation as the only unclear whether inherent conflicts of
the similar effects of Big Food? meaningful approach, although some pro- interest can be reconciled, we favor
If we are going to get serious about such pose having public health expert commit- proceeding on the basis of evidence. As
nutritional issues, we must make choices tees set standards and monitor industry George Orwell put it, ‘‘saints should always
about how to engage with Big Food. performance in improving the nutritional be judged guilty until they are proved
Whether, and under what circumstances, quality of food products and in marketing innocent.’’ We believe the onus of proof is
we should view food companies as ‘‘part- the products to children. on the food industry. If food companies
ners’’ or as part of the solution to rising We support the critical view, for several can rigorously and independently establish
rates of obesity and associated chronic reasons. First, we find no evidence for an self-regulation or private–public partner-
diseases is a matter of much current alignment of public health interest in ships as improving both health and profit,
debate, as indicated by the diverse views curbing obesity with that of the food these methods should be extended and
of officials of PepsiCo and nutrition and beverage industry. Any partnership replicated. But to date self-regulation has
scientists [24,27,28,33,34]. must create profit for the industry, which largely failed to meet stated objectives

PLoS Medicine | www.plosmedicine.org 2 June 2012 | Volume 9 | Issue 6 | e1001242


[42,43,44,45,46,47], and instead has re- Public health professionals must recog- SSBs. The central aim of public health must
sulted in significant pressure for public nize that Big Food’s influence on global be to bring into alignment Big Food’s profit
regulation. Kraft’s decision to ban trans food systems is a problem, and do what is motives with public health goals. Without
fats, for example, occurred under pressure needed to reach a consensus about how to taking direct and concerted action to expose
of lawsuits [48]. If industry believed that engage critically. The Conflicts of Interest and regulate the vested interests of Big
self-regulation would increase profit, it Coalition, which emerged from concerns Food, epidemics of poverty, hunger, and
would already be regulating itself. about Big Food’s influence on the U.N. obesity are likely to become more acute.
We believe the critical view has much to High-Level Meeting on NCDs, is a good
offer. It is a model of dynamic and place to start [29,49]. Public health profes- Author Contributions
dialectic engagement. It will increase sionals must place as high a priority on
pressures on industry to improve health nutrition as they do on HIV, infectious Analyzed the data: DS. Wrote the first draft of
the manuscript: DS. Contributed to the writing
performance, and it will encourage those diseases, and other disease threats. They
of the manuscript: DS MN. ICMJE criteria for
who are sympathetic to the first or second should support initiatives such as restrictions authorship read and met: DS MN. Agree with
views to effect change from within large on marketing to children, better nutrition manuscript results and conclusions: DS MN.
food and beverage companies. standards for school meals, and taxes on

References
1. De Schutter O (2011) Report submitted by the 15. Regmi A, Gehlhar M (2005) Processed food trade 29. Stuckler D, Basu S, McKee M (2011) UN high
Special Rapporteur on the right to food. Geneva: pressured by evolving global supply chains. Am- level meeting on non-communicable diseases: An
United Nations. Available: http://www2.ohchr. berwaves: US Department of Agriculture. Avail- opportunity for whom? BMJ 343: d5336. doi:
org/english/issues/food/docs/A-HRC-16-49. able: http://www.ers.usda.gov/amberwaves/ 10.1136/bmj.d5336.
pdf february05/features/processedfood.htm 30. Stuckler D (2008) Population causes and conse-
2. Patel R (2008) Stuffed and starved: The hidden 16. Popkin B (2002) Part II: What is unique about the quences of leading chronic diseases: A compara-
battle for the world food system: Melville House. experience in lower- and middle-income less- tive analysis of prevailing explanations. Milbank
448 p. industrialised countries compared with the very- Quarterly 86: 273–326.
3. Doak C, Adair LS, Bentley M (2005) The dual high income countries? The shift in the stages 31. UN General Assembly (2011) Political declaration
burden household and nutrition transition para- of the nutrition transition differ from past of the High-level Meeting of the General
dox. Int J Obesity 29: 129–136. experiences! Public Health Nutr 5: 205–214. Assembly on the Prevention and Control of
4. Stein AD, Thompson AM, Waters A (2005) doi:10.1079/PHN2001295. Non-communicable Diseases (NCDs). New York:
Childhood growth and chronic disease: evidence 17. Hawkes C (2005) The role of foreign direct UN. Available: http://www.un.org/en/ga/
from countries undergoing the nutrition transi- investment in the nutrition transition. Public ncdmeeting2011/
tion. Matern Child Nutr 1: 177–184. Available: Health Nutri 8: 357–365. 32. Mitchell A (2011) Letter to National Heart Forum
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/entrez/query.fcgi? 18. Basu S, Stuckler, D McKee M, Galea G (2012) about ‘Priority actions for the NCD crisis’. In:
cmd=Retrieve&db=PubMed&dopt=Citation&list_ Nutritional drivers of worldwide diabetes: An Lincoln P, editor. London: UK DFID.
uids=16881898 econometric study of food markets and diabetes 33. Monteiro C, Gomes FS, Cannon G (2009) The
5. Caballero B (2005) A nutrition paradox – prevalence in 173 countries. Public Health snack attack. Am J Public Health 100: 975–
underweight and obesity in developing countries. Nutrition. In press. 981.
N Engl J Med 352: 1514–1516. 19. Maliv V, Schulze MB, Hu FB (2006) Intake of 34. Acharya T, Fuller AC, Mensah GA, Yahc D
6. Eckholm E, Record F (1976) The two faces of sugar-sweetened beverages and weight gain: A (2011) The current and future role of the food
malnutrition. Worldwatch. Available: http:// systematic review. Am J Clin Nutr 84: 274– industry in the prevention and control of chronic
www.worldwatch.org/bookstore/publication/ 288. diseases: The case of PepsiCo. In: Stuckler D,
worldwatch-paper-9-two-faces-malnutrition 20. Moreno L, Rodriguez G (2007) Dietary risk Siegel, K, . Sick Societies: Responding to the
7. Pollan M (2003) The (agri)cultural contradictions global challenge of chronic disease. Oxford:
factors for development of childhood obesity.
of obesity. New York Times. Available: http:// Oxford University Press.
Curr Opin Clin Nutr Metab Care 10: 336–341.
www.nytimes.com/2003/10/12/magazine/ 35. Ki-Moon B (2011) Remarks to the General
21. Hu F, Malik VS (2010) Sugar-sweetened bever-
12WWLN.html Assembly meeting on the prevention and control
ages and risk of obesity and type 2 diabetes.
8. Brownell K, Warner KE (2009) The perils of of non-communicable disease. Geneva: UN. Avail-
Physiol Behav 100: 47–54.
ignoring history: Big Tobacco played dirty and able: http://www.un.org/apps/news/infocus/
22. Malik V, Popkin BM, Bray GA, Despres JP, Hu F
millions died. How similar is Big Food? Milbank sgspeeches/statments_full.asp?statID=1299
(2010) Sugar-sweetened beverages, obesity, type 2
Quarterly 87: 259–294. 36. Lansley A (2011) 4th plenary meeting. Geneva: UN.
diabetes mellitus, and cardiovascular disease risk. Available: http://www.ncdalliance.org/sites/
9. Lyson T, Raymer AL (2000) Stalking the wily
Circulation 121: 1356–1364. default/files/rfiles/Monday%20Sep%2019%203pm.
multinational: power and control in the US food
system. Agric Human Values 17: 199–208. 23. Pereira M, Kartashov AI, Ebbeling CB, Van pdf
10. Alexander E, Yach D, Mensah GA (2011) Major Horn L, Slattery ML, et al (2005) Fast food 37. Koplan J, Brownell KD (2010) Response of the
multinational food and beverage companies and habits, weight gain and insulin resistance in a 15- food and beverage industry to the obesity threat.
informal sector contributions to global food year prospective analysis of the CARDIA study. JAMA 304: 1487–1488.
consumption: Implications for nutrition policy. Lancet 365: 36–42. 38. Wansink B (2007) Mindless eating: Why we eat
Global Health 7: 26. 24. Yach D, Feldman ZA, Bradley DG, Khan M more than we think. Bantam Books.
11. Alfranca O, Rama R, Tunzelmann N (2003) (2010) Can the food industry help tackle the 39. Wilde P (2009) Self-regulation and the response to
Technological fields and concentration of inno- growing burden of undernutrition? Am J Public concerns about food and beverage marketing to
vation among food and beverage multinationals. Health 100: 974–980. children in the United States. Nutr Rev 67: 155–
International Food and Agribusiness Manage- 25. Evenett S, Jenny F (2011) Trade, competition, and 166.
ment Review 5. the pricing of commodities. Washington D.C.: 40. Lesser L, Ebbeling CB, Goozner M, Wypij D,
12. EuroMonitor International (2011) Passport Glob- Center for Economic Policy Research. Available: Ludwig DS (2008) Relationship between funding
al Market Information Database: EuroMonitor http://www.voxeu.org/reports/CEPR-CUTS_ source and conclusion among nutrition-related
International. report.pdf scientific articles. PLoS Med 4: e5. doi:10.1371/
13. Stuckler D, McKee M, Ebrahim S, Basu S (2012) 26. Chopra M, Darnton-Hill I (2004) Tobacco and journal.pmed.0040005.
Manufacturing Epidemics: The Role of Global obesity epidemics: Not so different after all? BMJ 41. Raffensperger C, Tickner J (1999) Protecting
Producers in Increased Consumption of Un- 328: 1558–1560. public health and the environment: implementing
healthy Commodities Including Processed Foods, 27. Ludwig D, Nestle M (2008) Can the food industry the precautionary principle. Washington D.C.:
Alcohol, and Tobacco. PLoS Med 6: e 1001235. play a constructive role in the obesity epidemic? Island Press.
doi:10.1371/journal.pmed.1001235. JAMA 300: 1808–1811. 42. Lewin A, Lindstrom L, Nestle M (2006) Food
14. Hawkes C (2002) Marketing activities of global 28. Wiist W (2011) The corporate playbook, health, industry promises to address childhood obesity:
soft drink and fast food companies in emer- and democracy: The snack food and beverage Preliminary evaluation. J Public Health Policy 27:
ging markets: A review. Geneva: World Health industry’s tactics in context. In: Stuckler D, 327–348.
Organization. Available: http://www.who.int/ Siegel, K, editor. Sick Societies: responding to 43. Lang T (2006) The food industry, diet, physical
hpr/NPH/docs/globalization.diet.and.ncds. the global challenge of chronic disease. Oxford: activity and health: A review of reported com-
pdf Oxford University Press. mitments and prctice of 25 of the world’s largest

PLoS Medicine | www.plosmedicine.org 3 June 2012 | Volume 9 | Issue 6 | e1001242


food companies. London: Oxford Health Alli- 46. Campbell D (2012) High street outlets ignoring York. Available: http://www.nytimes.com/
ance. guidelines on providing calorie information. The 2004/04/09/us/lawyers-shift-focus-from-big-
44. Sharma L, Teret SP, Brownell KD (2010) The Guardian. London. Available: http://www. tobacco-to-big-food.html
food industry and self-regulation: Standards to guardian.co.uk/business/2012/mar/15/high- 49. Conflicts of Interest Coalition (2011) Statement of
promote success and to avoid public health street-guidelines-calorie-information Concern.
failures. Am J Public Health 100: 240–246. 47. Hawkes C, Harris JL (2011) An analysis of the
45. Bonell C, McKee M, Fletcher A, Haines A, content of food industry pledges and marketing to
Wilkinson P (2011) The nudge smudge: misrepre- children. Public Health Nutr 14: 1403–1414.
sentation of the ‘‘nudge’’ concept in England’s 48. Zernike K (2004) Lawyers shift focus from Big
public health White Paper. Lancet 377: 2158–2159. Tobacco to Big Food. New York Times. New

PLoS Medicine | www.plosmedicine.org 4 June 2012 | Volume 9 | Issue 6 | e1001242

Вам также может понравиться