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Clothing is one among the most important three basic needs in every human life. It
protects our body from various climates and gives us a good appearance. Consumers are
becoming increasingly very much conscious to environmental friendly goods and much
concerned about the green activities. This tendency for eco-friendly come into contact with the
skin for a prolonged period of the time.
Bamboo is an important forest biomass resource. Bamboo textiles have many fanatics’
properties when used as textile materials such as high tenacity, excellent thermal conductivity,
resistant to bacteria, and high water and perspiration absorption. Yarns of bamboo fibre provide
the desirable properties of high absorbency, antibacterial and soft feel in textiles and made ups.
Bamboo textile products are having high demands in the market because of their
antibacterial nature, biodegradable properties, high moisture absorption capacity, softness and
UV protective capacity, breathability and fast drying behaviour. Bamboo fibre ensure comfort
in various applications currently, regenerated bamboo fibres are used in apparels including
undergarments, sports textile, t-shirts and socks. They are also suitable for hygienic products
and sanitary napkins, absorbing pads, masks, bandages and surgical gowns.
Cellulose is one of the most abundant natural resources on earth and for the
majority of the last century, commercial routes to regenerated cellulose fibers have coped with
the difficulties of making a good cellulose solution by using an easy to dissolve derivative.
Modal fiber is a second generation regenerated cellulosic fiber for manufactured fibers of
cellulose having a high breaking strength and high wet modulus.
Modal fibers were developed in Japan in 1951 and Lenzing started selling
its version of them in 1964. Modal is also referred to as High Wet Modulus viscose fibers or
polynosic rayon.
Modal fibers are defined in International Standard ISO 206: 999 (E) as high
wet modulus, high breaking strength regenerated cellulose fibers produced by using particular
viscose rayon, and regeneration bath compositions which allows greater molecular orientation
during stretch and coagulation of the fibers.
OBJECTIVES
1. Production of 100% Bamboo, Modal.
Bamboo
Introduction
Bamboo botanically categorized as a grass not a tree. It is the world’s fastest growing
‘Woody Plant’. Bamboo has more than 1000 species that grows very fast at the rate of 3-4ft
per day depends on its species and atmospheric conditions. It can be found all over the world
i.e. Asia, Africa, Australia and some parts of USA. Some of Bamboos becomes flowers but the
bamboo used in fabrics is not the same as bamboo eaten by panda bears. It belongs to perennial
group of plants. Some of ancient species of bamboo have height up to 250 ft.
Bamboo grows naturally without using any herbicides, pesticides and irrigation, it
grows with natural rainfall. There is no need of planting of Bamboo because it grows from
stalks cut off and buried it in the ground and these starts to grow after a short time period. As
compared to the other trees that take approximately 70 years to become mature, bamboo plant
matures within 3-4 years and have all the eco-friendly properties. Bamboo has very vast root
system that helps in its growth faster as compared to normal plant.
Bamboo is a regenerated cellulose fibre produces from bamboo pulp. Bamboo fibre is
biodegradable textile material. As a natural cellulose fibre, it can be 100% biodegraded in soil
by microorganism and sunshine. Its decomposition process doesn't cause any pollution to
environment.
"Bamboo fibre comes from nature, and completely returns to nature in the end"
therefore bamboo fibre is praised as "the natural, green, and eco-friendly new-type textile
material of 21st century".
Bamboo fibre has been used in various applications such as building and construction,
decoration, slope maintenance and high performance composites for the past many years.
With its high moisture absorption capacity, breathability and fast drying behaviour,
regenerated bamboo cellulose fibre ensures excellent comfort in various applications.
Currently regenerated bamboo fibre is used in intimate apparels, hygienic products and sanitary
materials, nonwovens and home furnishings.
It is the fastest growing grass and can shoot up a yard or more a day. Bamboo reaches
maturity quickly and is ready for harvesting in about four years. Bamboo does not require
replanting after harvesting because of its vast root network. For the first 15 years or so
everything in your grove is one plant. The root mass will usually double in size each year.
The most enticing aspect of bamboo fibre is that it is the most eco-friendly fibre on the
planet. Bamboo, a type of tropical grass, has an extensive rooting system that grows on average
four to six new shoots a year, naturally replenishing itself. It is also 100% biodegradable, the
most renewable resource on our planet, and provides an abundance of usable oxygen making
it a crucial element in the balance between oxygen and carbon dioxide in the atmosphere. As
bamboo fabric is gaining popularity, there will naturally be an increase in growth and demand
for more bamboo plants. This could ultimately lead to an increased amount of photosynthesis
and result in another alternative to combating greenhouse gases.
2.4 Unique Properties of Bamboo Fibre
2.4.1 Anti –Bacterial Property
Bamboo fibre has natural functions of anti-bacteria and deodorization character.
Bamboos possess a unique anti-bacteria agent named “bamboo Kun". This substance imparts
the natural functions of anti-bacteria and deodorization.
There are many different opinions on how many species of bamboo that there are. Some
experts say there are approximately 1000 or more than 1600 species on the planet growing
naturally. All these species of bamboo are both decorative and useful when they are used in the
homes and industries in countries around the world.
Percentage of growth
Asia
America
Africa
Cellulose – 42-43%
Hemi cellulose – 31-32%
Lignin – 24-24.5%
Wax – 0-0.5%
Pure bamboo
Bamboo charcoal
Bamboo viscose
a. Manufacturing Process
In this method ‘woody’ part of bamboo plant crushed and treated with natural enzymes
to break down the bamboo in to the soggy substance and then this material is combed-out into
spun yarn. It is the most reasonable method of manufacturing bamboo yarn and the bamboo
produced by this method is very rough like linen. The problem with this method is that it’s a
little expensive method. Although it is expensive, this process is eco-friendly.
b. Manufacturing Process
Select 4-5 years old bamboo grown and it is dried and heated at 800oc until it becomes
bamboo charcoal. The bamboo charcoal is taken for further processing to be turned into nano
particle. Ultrafine bamboo charcoal nano particles are embedded into cotton or polyester fiber.
Bamboo Viscose
c. Manufacturing Process
It is basically hydrolysis alkalization. The crushed bamboo is "cooked" with the help of
Sodium hydroxide (NaoH) which is also known as caustic soda or lye into a form of regenerated
cellulose fiber. Hydrolysis alkalization is then done through carbon disulphide combined with
multi-phase bleaching. Although chemical processing is not environmental friendly but it is
preferred by many manufacturers as it is a less time consuming process.
There is some misconception in people about sodium hydroxide, but it does not cause
any harm to environment and health of workers. It is approved by Global Organic textile
Standards (GOTS) and the soil association that it can be used in Organic Cotton processing and
it cannot stay on bamboo fabric as residue and easily remove after washing and can be
neutralize to non-toxic sodium salt.
2.9 FLOW CHART OF PROCESSING OF BAMBOO FIBRES
Softer than cotton, with a texture similar to a blend of cashmere and silk.
Because the cross-section of the fibre is filled with various micro-gaps and micro-
holes, it has much better moisture absorption and ventilation. Moisture absorbency
is twice than that of cotton with extraordinary soil release.
Natural antibacterial elements (bio-agent “bamboo Kun”) in bamboo fibre keep
bacteria away from bamboo fabrics.
Garment of bamboo fibre can absorb and evaporate human sweat in a split of
second just like breathing. Such a garment makes people feel extremely cool,
comfortable and never sticking to skin even in hot summer.
100% bamboo yarns show a great elasticity i.e. nearly 20%. Even in 100% bamboo
woven fabrics a remarkable elasticity can be obtained wherein the use of
elastomeric fibres like elastanes may be eliminated.
Bamboo fabrics need less dyestuff than cotton, modal or viscose. It seems that the
absorption of dyestuffs is remarkably better. Bamboo absorbs the dyestuffs faster
and shows the colours better.
Anti-ultraviolet nature of bamboo fibre has made it suitable for summer clothing,
especially for the protection of pregnant ladies and children from the effect of
ultraviolet radiation.
Product of bamboo fibre is eco-friendly and bio-degradable.
After gaining popularity as a green fibre, bamboo has found place in significant fashion
circles. Bamboo Clothing: The inherent anti-fungal and antibacterial properties of bamboo
fabrics make it suitable for such clothing as underwear, t-shirt and socks. It is especially
preferred for making summer clothing as it gives protection against UV rays and for being
naturally cool. The softness, sheen and drapeability of bamboo fabric make it suitable for
fashion clothing and fashion accessories like scarves. As it has good absorption and is
breathable, it can be used in making any type of garments especially sportswear and inner wear.
In fact, some manufacturers use a blend of 4% Lycra with bamboo to make sportswear. The
softness of bamboo yam also makes it ideal for making infant wear.
Bamboo fabric has also come to occupy important place in manufacturing of home
furnishings due its many qualities including, softness, strength, & durability among others. It
is used in making cushion covers, table linen, bed linen, curtains, beddings and pillow, kitchen
linen etc. Wallpapers and curtains made from bamboo fabric can absorb ultraviolet radiation
very well. Upholstery fabrics are usually made with bamboo blends.
Bathroom textiles:
Bamboo fabric is increasingly being used in making bathroom furnishings. Bamboo
bath towels and bath robes have soft and comfortable feel and excellent moisture absorption
capability. The natural antibiotic property provides hygienic conditions as well as prevents bad
odour. They are also suitable for making bath mats due to good absorbency.
Non-woven fabrics:
Bamboo pulp is also used for making non-woven fabrics that are then used in making
hygiene products such as sanitary napkin, masks, mattress, absorbent pads, and food-packing
bags. Again, they are preferred for such products due to anti-bacteria and absorption properties.
Apart from non-woven, bamboo fabric itself is also used in the production of such items
as textiles for surgical practices including masks, bandage, gowns etc. apart from linens, towels
and drapes in hospitals.
This includes sweaters, bath suits, mats, blankets, towels, tight t-shirts, socks best for summer
clothing.
These include fields of hygiene materials such as sanitary napkins, masks, mattress, and food
packing bags due to its anti-bacterial nature.
The bamboo fibre has a natural effect of sterilization. Include bandages, masks, surgical cloths,
nurse wears, bamboo towels and bath-robes.
Good moisture absorption, soft feel splendid colours, anti-bacterial properties makes these very
popular for home textiles. Its natural antibiosis function keeps bacterium away so that it will
not produce bad odour.
They have the functions of antibiosis, bacteriostatic and ultraviolet proof this includes curtains,
television covers, wallpapers and sofa slip covers.
Bamboo composites
Bamboo fibre is also a good candidate for natural fibres in composites materials. It is used to
make bamboo biodegradable polymer composites in injection moulding.
Bamboo fibres fabric is made of 100% bamboo pulp fibre. It is characterised by its good
hygroscopicity, excellent permeability, and soft feel, easiness to straighten and dye splendid
colour effect of pigmentation.
Modal
Modal fabric, which is also known as HWM rayon, is a type of rayon that is commonly used in
consumer textiles. This fabric is considered to be semi-synthetic since it is made from a
combination of organic and synthetic materials. The base material for modal rayon is cellulose
from hardwood trees like birch and oak, but this raw tree material goes through a complex
manufacturing process before it is rendered into a weavable fiber.
This version of rayon represents a significant evolution in the history of this fabric. The original
forms of rayon that were developed toward the end of the 19th century were expensive to
produce, and many of them were flammable. With the development of viscose rayon in the early
20th century, the majority of the cost and safety concerns regarding rayon were solved, but the
process of making viscose rayon is unnecessarily complicated, and it produces a large amount
of waste.
Modal rayon was first developed in 1951 in Japan, and in many ways, this type of rayon is nearly
identical to viscose rayon. However, a simpler process is used to make modal rayon that doesn't
produce as much waste, and many consumers note a significant difference in the feel of modal
rayon as compared to viscose rayon.
The regenerated cellulosic fibers have come a long way. Cupro, acetate and
Viscose fibers were developed more than 100 years ago. The use of high tenacity
Viscose and Modal fibers has come a long way showing that these cellulosic
regenerated fibers are well-established nowadays. The Historical development is
given by Reinhard Kampl (1995).
First generation
1894 Large scale production of the first cellulosic filaments according to the
Viscose process (Viscose Synd. Ltd./London)
1916 First production of Viscose staple fibers (Glanzstoff AG)
1950 Considerable tenacity improvements of Viscose staple fibers
particularly in the years between1950 and 1970 resulted in an extended application range
Second Generation
Ca. 1960 Development and production of Modal staple fiber types according
to the Viscose process.
Around 1970 the HWM type was prevailed on the European market -
the US only produced
HWM. The Far East produces Polynosic and Viscose.
Ca 1975/1980 Development of fine-denier Viscose fibers with higher tenacity
1986 Development of Micro-Modal (HWM)
Third Generation
Ca. 1980 P -process (AM. ENKA)
1987 License agreement Lenzing/Akzo- Pilot production since 1990
1990 1990 License agreement Courtaulds/Akzo- Bulk production since 1992
Modal fibers come in two varieties- polynosic and High Wet Modulus (HWM). Both are based
on higher quality viscose than regular staple (6-8% cellulose, 6.5-8.5% sodium hydroxide, 40-
50% carbon disulfide). Modal fibers are always cut into staple lengths and spun on oriented
structure so that the dry fiber is relatively strong. It has greater durability, stability and strength
when compared to cotton. They can be mercerized and finished to minimize shrinkage. They
also wrinkle less than regular rayon in washing
There is only one type of modal rayon, but this fabric is highly similar to other forms of rayon,
which makes it necessary to delineate it from other textiles in the rayon family. Some
examples of types of rayon that are similar to modal include:
Viscose rayon: This type of rayon was the first form of this cellulose-based textile to enter
into worldwide mass production. Before the invention of viscose rayon, this fabric was
expensive to produce, but the invention of the viscose process made it easy for factories
around the world to recreate this fabric based on simple formulas.
Viscose rayon is highly similar to modal rayon, and it should be considered a predecessor
to modal fabric. The process of creating viscose rayon is highly complicated, and it
involves more chemical treatment processes. Therefore, viscose rayon should be
considered more harmful to the environment and workers than modal rayon. While many
factories continue to make viscose rayon, others have updated their processes to
manufacture more advanced forms of this semi-synthetic fabric.
Lyocell: This rayon derivative is another updated form of this fabric that has a number of
unique benefits. Lyocell is the only form of rayon that can be considered to be purely
organic; since the cellulose used to make this fabric isn't chemically altered during the
production process, it is made from pure tree fibers.
The process of producing lyocell uses a closed-loop solvent system, which means that no
solvent is wasted or dumped into the ecosystem. On the other hand, even the modal rayon
production process uses a solvent system that introduces chemical waste into the
environment. Almost all of the world's lyocell is made by an Austrian international
corporation called Lenzing AG.
Production of modal
The process of making modal fabric is highly similar to the process used to make viscose rayon.
Essentially, modal fabric is an update of viscose rayon that eliminates some of the most wasteful or
harmful aspects of the viscose production process. Most consumers and manufacturers also agree that
modal rayon is a structurally superior product to viscose rayon.
The modal fabric production process begins with the harvesting of trees to be rendered into cellulose.
These trees are broken down into chips that are approximately the size of postage stamps, and they are
transferred to the manufacturing floor. These chips are then purified to extract their cellulose content,
and the leftover tree products are discarded.
Next, this extracted cellulose is formed into sheets, and these sheets are then immersed or "steeped" in
vats of sodium hydroxide, which is also called caustic soda. It's important to note that far lesser
concentrations of sodium hydroxide are used to create modal rayon than are used to create viscose rayon,
which results in the production of less toxic waste.
After steeping is complete, the sheets are broken down into crumbs. Unlike the case in the production of
viscose rayon, these crumbs are not aged, and they are instead directly immersed in carbon disulfide,
which transforms the white crumbs into an orange substance called sodium cellulose xanthate. It is at
this point that the tree-derived cellulose can no longer be considered a purely organic substance.
This cellulose xanthate is then immersed in caustic soda once more to create a syrupy solution. The
modal fabric production process again bypasses the aging process that usually occurs at this
point, and this syrupy substance is immediately forced through a spinneret to create fibers.
These fibers are then immersed in sulfuric acid, stretched, and formed into yarn. The resulting yarn is
then washed, bleached, rinsed, dried, and loaded onto spools. At this point, the modal yarn is ready to be
subjected to pre-shrinking, fire resistance, wrinkle resistance, or a number of other treatments that may
be applied before it is woven into a fabric.
MATERIALS
AND
METHODOLOGY
CHAPTER 3
MATERIALS AND METHODOLOGY
3.1. Introduction
a. Yarn Count
Count of the yarns was found out using Quadrant balance by standard procedure. Ten
readings were taken for each and their mean was calculated.
The twist per inch in the cotton, bamboo yarns were determined using untwist n twist
method and the TM for both the yams were also found out. In this method the given length of
the yam was untwisted at a certain tension and then again twisting the yam to the same level
of original tension and the number of revolution gives the TPI of the yam and the average of
10 readings gives the TPI of the yams.
Single yarn strength and extension was tested by using Universal testing machine.
CREASE RECOVERY
Warp and weft crease recovery angle was found using Eureka Recovery Tester
by standard procedure and 15 trails were takn in both warp and weft direction
and their mean was calculated
FABRIC STIFFNESS
Bending length of the fabric both warp and weft were determined using
EUREKA STIFFNESS TESTER. The size of the was 6X1 inch. Each specimen
was tested 4 times at each end again with the strip turned over. Mean value for
the bending length in warp and weft direction are calculated and the value for
flexural rigidity was calculated.
BENDING MODULUS
The stiffness of the fabric is the very dependent on its thickness, the thicker the
fabric, the stiffer if all other factor remain the same. The bending modulus is
independent of dimwnsuion the strip tested so that by analogy with solid
materials it is a measure intrinsic stiffness.
Flexural Rigidity:
Drape:
The term used to describe the way a fabric hangs under its own weight
determines how good a garment looks in use.
Crease Recovery:
Creasing of a fabric during wear is not change in appearance that is
generally desired. The ability of a fabric to resist creasing is in the first
instance dependent on the type of fiber used in its construction.
Wool and silk have a good resistance to creasing whereas cellulosic
materials such as cotton, viscose, and linen have very poor resistance to
creasing.
Tensile strength
The resistance of a material to a force tending to tear it apart, measured as
the maximum tension the material can withstand without tearing.
Air Permeability
The air permeability of a fabric is a measure of how well it allows the
passage of air through it. The ease or otherwise of passage of air is of
importance for a number of fabric end uses such as industrial filters, tents,
sailcloths, parachutes, raincoat materials, shirtings, downproof fabrics and
airbags.
Wrinkle Recovery
It is the ability of a fabric to bounce back after it has been twisted, wrinkled, or
distorted in any way. Some fabrics are able to eliminate wrinkles because of
their own resilience. Wool is among those, as are thermo- plastic manufactured fibers and
chemically-treated cottons. Laboratory tests are made to determine the amount or degree a
fabric will recover from wrinkling.