Brake System

C H A P T E R
© Cengage Learning 2014
1 3
Drum Brake System Inspection
and Service
Chapter Objectives
At the conclusion of this chapter you should be able to:
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t *OTQFDUBOESFQMBDFXIFFMDZMJOEFST
t %FUFSNJOFDPODFSOTTVDIBTQVMMJOH ESBHHJOH BOEOPJTFBTTPDJBUFEXJUIESVNCSBLFTZTUFNT
t *OTQFDUBOENFBTVSFCSBLFESVNT
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t *OTQFDUESVNQBSLJOHCSBLFDPNQPOFOUTBOEPQFSBUJPO
KEY TERMS
brake hardware drum in hat holddown spring tool
clearance gauge floating drum pulsation
drum brake micrometer grabbing return spring tool
Copyright 201 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part. Due to electronic rights, some third party content may be suppressed from the eBook and/or eChapter(s).
Editorial review has deemed that any suppressed content does not materially affect the overall learning experience. Cengage Learning reserves the right to remove additional content at any time if subsequent rights restrictions require it.
322 Chapter 13 • Drum Brake System Inspection and Service
B eing able to inspect and service the brake system

is often a requirement for entry-level technicians.
Even though brake system work is often thought of as
easy because of the relative ease with which many brake
system repairs are accomplished, it is critical that all
repairs are performed safely and properly.
Service Tools and Safety

As with disc brakes and other systems on modern vehi-
cles, there are special tools for drum brakes that make
their service safer and easier for the technician. Using
the correct tool for the job and using the tool safely are
important aspects of doing a job well. Incorrect tool
usage can damage the tool and the components being
worked on and can cause personal injury.

Brake service tools are used to make the process of
working with the brake system safer and easier. While
some technicians prefer to use basic hand tools when
working on brake springs and other components, it is
best to use the tools specifically designed to perform FIGURE 13-1 A wet sink is used to clean the drum brakes
certain tasks. and trap dust and to prevent the dust from becoming airborne.
Drum Brake Service Tools

A few tools are used to make drum brake spring removal Brake Service Precautions
and installation easier and safer. These tools, shown in Performing drum brake service involves working with
Figure 13-1 through Figure 13-5, can often be used on many small parts and springs, sometimes connected in ways
most types of servo and nonservo brake designs. that are not readily apparent. Take time to determine how
• A vacuum enclosure or a wet sink, like that shown the parts fit together before disassembling the shoes. Locate
in Figure 13-1, is used to clean brake dust from the a diagram of the brake assembly, or take pictures before
brake assembly. This is to trap airborne dust and you start to work; this will help you correctly reassemble
asbestos fibers that may be present in the linings. the components. In addition to wearing standard PPE such
as safety glasses and work boots, gloves are also recom-
• The return spring tool shown in Figure 13-2 is
mended when you are working on drum brake assemblies.
used to remove and install the high-tension return
Mechanics gloves will help protect your hands against cuts
springs.
and keep the brake dust from working into your skin.
• The holddown spring tool shown in Figure 13-3 is Before you begin working on the brakes:
used to remove coil-type holddown springs.
• Always allow the drum brakes to cool before begin-
• Used to set the shoe-to-drum clearance, the Safe-Set
ning to service them.
shown in Figure 13-4 measures the drum size so the
shoes can be adjusted properly after installation. • Familiarize yourself with the brake system before
attempting service. If necessary, research system
• A drum brake micrometer, shown in Figure 13-5,
operation before performing any type of work on
is used to measure drum diameter and to check for
the system.
out-of-round.
• Locate and follow all of the manufacturer’s service
procedures for working on the drum brake system.
Tool Safety
Drum brake service requires removing and replacing • Do not reuse damaged parts.
springs that can have a lot of tension on them. Because • Do not reuse drums that are damaged or worn
of this, improper tool use can result in damage to com- beyond their service limit.
ponents and personal injury. Do not use pliers and screw-
drivers in place of the proper brake tools. Pliers can Asbestos. Even though asbestos has been phased out of
damage or break springs, and screwdrivers can slip and brake lining materials, there is no way to know if a particu-
cause you to injure yourself. Proper tool use is demon- lar set of brakes contains asbestos, so treat all drum brakes
strated later in the service section of this chapter. with equal caution. Use an approved method of brake
Chapter 13 • Drum Brake System Inspection and Service323
R e u ; r n spring s
ns'allation s r d f
FIGURE 13-2 An example of a return spring tool.
FIGURE 13-3 This tool is used to remove coil-type holddown

springs.
a
FIGURE 13-5 A drum micrometer is used to measure drum
diameter and out-of-round.
Glovebag
collection system
FIGURE 13-4 The Safe-Set is used to measure the drum and

transfer the measurement to the shoes to set the initial shoe
adjustment.
dust collection. Many shops use a vacuum system, like

the type shown in Figure 13-6. These use high efficiency a
particulate air (HEPA) filters to trap brake dust so that it FIGURE 13-6 A special brake vacuum enclosure is used to
does not become airborne. Wet sinks, like that shown in remove and trap brake dust.
Copyright 2013 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part Due to electronic rights, some third party content may be suppressed from the eBook and/or eQiapter(s).
Figure 13-1 earlier, are another common method that traps

the dust and cleans the brake components. Regardless of
the type of system you use, follow the equipment’s direc-
tions for proper use. Never use compressed air to clean
off brake dust. Even if the linings do not contain asbestos,
they still contain other forms of lining fibers, dust, and
debris, and should not be inhaled.
Drum Brake Inspection

Any time a vehicle is checked for a brake system com-
plaint, all wheel brake assemblies should be inspected.
This will require removing the brake drums to fully

inspect the brake linings, wheel cylinders, springs, and
other components.
If the customer’s concern is not specific to the drum
brakes, such as noise or other issues that indicate prob-
lems with the disc brakes or hydraulic system, that does FIGURE 13-7 Removing a floating drum.
not mean that the drum brakes should not be inspected.
A full brake inspection, including the operation of the
parking brake and warning lights, should be performed Beginning A Drum Brake Inspection
any time a brake concern is present. Once you have an idea about what the concerns are and
what their possible causes may be, it is time to remove
Drum Brake Concerns
the wheels and begin to inspect the brake assemblies.
Problems related to the drum brake system include:
Before you attempt to remove the brake drum, check
• Noise: Because the brake dust generated by the wear the service information for the procedure to remove the
on the linings and drum does not escape the brake drum. Most vehicles use floating drums that slip over the
assembly, dust accumulation between the shoes and hub and are trapped by the wheel fasteners. An example
drums is a common source of noise. Trapped dust of a floating drum is shown in Figure 13-7. Some FWD
can cause groaning or grinding noise, particularly at vehicles hold the drums in place with the wheel bearing,
low speed brake applications. Other causes include which must be removed to remove the drum. An illustra-
severely worn linings as metal-on-metal contact, tion of this is shown in Figure 13-8.
squeaks from springs and from shoes moving over On larger pickup trucks and vans with one-ton
dry backing plate pads, and pieces of broken springs heavy-duty rear differentials, the rear axle shaft must be
and clips rattling around inside the drum. unbolted from the axle housing and the wheel bearings
• Grabbing: This is where the brake applies too removed to remove the drum. This generally involves
quickly or with too much force, which causes the removing the axle shaft to drum bolts. Pull the axle from
wheel to lock. This can be caused by overly tight the differential and set it aside. Next, remove the retain-
shoes and by fluid contaminating the linings, such ing nut holding the bearings and drum to the axle tube.
as that from a leaking wheel cylinder or axle seal. A special socket may be needed to remove the bearing
If the grabbing occurs under hard braking, a faulty nut. Be careful when removing the drum as it is quite a
proportioning valve may be the cause. bit heavier than an average passenger car drum. Be sure
you know how to remove and install the drum before
• Pulsation: This is felt as a shudder or pulsing of
attempting to do so. Refer to the service information for
the vehicle and/or brake pedal during stopping. It is
procedures specific to the vehicle.
commonly caused by an out-of-round brake drum.
• Parking brake does not hold: This can be caused Visual Inspection
by improperly adjusted shoes, a stuck or binding of External Components
parking brake lever, or frozen parking brake cables. Look at the outside of the brake drum and note any dam-
• Low, soft, or spongy brake pedal: A low brake age to the drum or cooling fins. Inspect the rear of the
pedal is usually caused by excessive shoe-to-drum backing plate for signs of damage, such as bending or
clearance or worn shoes and drums. If the pedal is rust-through. Check the brake lines and hoses for signs
spongy or drops very low, there is likely a leak in the of leaks and for kinks or damage. Locate and check the
hydraulic system. parking brake cables. In some cases you can tell if the
Chapter 13 • Drum Brake System Inspection and Service 325
Inner
Dust
bearing Brake drum
seal Thrust Cotter
cone
washer pin

Outer Brake drum Nut Grease
bearing retainer nut lock cap
cone
FIGURE 13-8 Some vehicles require removing the wheel bearings to remove the brake drums. Be careful when handling
bearings as dropping them can damage the outer race, requiring bearing replacement.
parking brake is used by looking at the cable where it Worn drum

enters or leaves the outer sheath. If the cable is clean Ridge
and not rusted, this usually indicates the cable is moving
in and out of the sheath and is operating normally. If the
cable appears rusted and uniform in color, the parking
brake is likely not being used and should be inspected
more closely.
Drum Removal
If a brake drum has never been removed for inspection,
you may find stamped steel retainers on the wheel studs,
as shown in Figure 13-9. These clips are used to hold
brake drums and rotors in place during vehicle assembly
Brake

shoe
FIGURE 13-10 Drums will often have two ridges, one on

the inside and one on the outside of the friction surface. The
outside ridge can make drum removal difficult.
and can be removed and discarded. If the drum has not

been removed before, mark the drum’s location to a wheel
stud so that it can be reinstalled in the same position.
Depending on the wear and how well the shoes are
adjusted, you may need to loosen or back off the self-

adjuster to remove the drum. As the shoes wear into the
drum, a ridge or lip is formed along the extreme inside
and outside edges of the drum’s friction surface, shown
FIGURE 13-9 The Tinnerman clips used to hold the drums in in Figure 13-10. To unadjust the shoes, use a brake
place during vehicle assembly can be discarded when remov- spoon or small screwdriver to back off the self-adjuster,
ing the drum. as shown in Figure 13-11.
Backing plate
Drum
Adjusting tool
Self-adjuster
lever

Star wheel

Welding
rod
FIGURE 13-11 If the drum will not slide over the shoes,
you may have to retract the self-adjuster to gain additional FIGURE 13-13 To remove the screws holding the drum in
clearance. place, an impact driver is often necessary. The impact driver
hammers and twists the screw when hit with a hammer. This
dual action usually will break tight screws loose.
Floating Drums. Floating drums are designed
to slide off the hub; however, years of exposure to the
weather tends to rust the drums to the hub, making
removal slightly more difficult. If the drum is rusted in
place, apply a penetrant to the hub and around the lug
studs. Use a wire brush to remove as much rust around
the hub as possible to ease the removal. Use a mallet to
tap on the drum to help break the rust bond. Do not use
a steel hammer. A steel hammer can damage the wheel
studs and brake drum. Do not pry the drum from between
the drum and backing plate as this can damage the brake

shoes and bend the backing plate. If the shoes are well
adjusted to the drum, you may need to retract the self-
adjuster to allow the drum to slide over the shoes.
On some drums, you may have to remove one or
two screws that hold the drum tight to the hub, like FIGURE 13-14 Place the correct bit in the impact driver and
those in Figure 13-12. These screws usually need to be hold the tool firmly against the screw. Hit the back of the driver
with a hammer to break the screw loose. Be careful not to hit
your hand.
removed with an impact driving screwdriver, as shown in

Figure 13-13 and Figure 13-14. Often drums also have
threaded holes in which bolts can be threaded to push the
drum from the hub. In most applications, thread a metric
8 ´ 1.25 bolt into each of the holes and tighten slowly
and evenly. This will push the drum from the hub.
Once the drum is removed, wash or vacuum any brake
dust from the drum and brake assembly. Do not use com-
pressed air to blow dust from the drum brake assembly.
Nonfloating Drum Removal. Some vehicles

secure the rear drums along with the rear wheel hub
FIGURE 13-12 Some drums have screws that hold the drum and bearings, which must be removed to remove the
in place. drum and inspect the brakes. The three most common
If the bearings, grease, grease seal, and hub are free

of dirt and debris and the bearings do not need to be
cleaned and repacked with new grease, you can reinstall
the drum and bearings. If the bearings need to be cleaned
and repacked, refer to Chapter 5 for the steps to service
these bearings. When you are reinstalling the drum and
bearings, follow the manufacturer’s adjustment proce-
dures to correctly load the bearings, and always use a
new cotter pin.
Full-floating rear axle assemblies found on many one-
ton series trucks and vans require you remove the axle

and axle bearings to remove the drum. An example is
shown in Figure 13-16. Always follow the manufac-
turer’s service procedures for the proper removal and
installation steps. A common method involves unbolt-
FIGURE 13-15 Some vehicles require removing the axle nut ing the axle flange from the hub and removing the axle.
to remove the drum. Some drums do not separate easily from Next, remove the bearing retaining nut and the axle bear-
the hub. Removing the hub bearing nut allows for easier drum ings. Once the bearings have been removed, the drum
removal. will slide off the brake shoes. Caution should be used as
these drums tend to be significantly heavier than those
on passenger cars.
arrangements are the sealed bearing, tapered wheel bear-

ing, and full-floating rear axle types.
Preliminary Inspection
Once the drums are removed, begin your inspection by
Sealed rear bearings are secured with a large axle nut
looking at the dust present in the drum and on the linings.
that must be removed before the drum can be removed.
Figure 13-17 shows what brake dust typically looks like.
Figure 13-15 shows one type of this rear bearing setup.
Figure 13-18 shows brake dust that is wet from a leak-
The axle nut may be staked to the axle; if this is so, use
ing wheel cylinder. As you can see, the brake dust in
a punch to unstake the nut before removing it. Staking
Figure 13-18 is much darker due to the presence of the
means that a thin portion of the nut is bent down into a
brake fluid. On RWD vehicles, look closely at the axle
groove cut into the spindle. This prevents the nut from
seal behind the hub, as these often leak rear differential
working itself loose and threading off the spindle. Many
lube onto the brakes, as shown in Figure 13-19. Any
manufacturers recommend replacing this type of axle nut
leak from either the wheel cylinder or axle seal must be
whenever it is removed, so refer to the service informa-
repaired before new brakes are installed.
tion to determine if the nut is reusable. Once the nut
is removed, the drum can be removed and the brakes
inspected. Lining Inspection
When the drum is reinstalled, axle nuts on this assem- The linings should show even wear along the length of
bly often have a high torque spec as the nut is used to the shoes. Check for cracks in the lining material, espe-
properly load the wheel bearing. Always refer to the cially around rivets, as this can be evidence of over-
manufacturer’s service information for proper installa- heated linings. Also, look for uneven wear across the
tion procedures and torque specs. inside to outside edges of the lining. Uneven wear across
For many years, tapered roller bearings were used on the shoe can indicate a bent backing plate or a problem
the rear hubs of FWD cars, which also held the drums with the drum. To accurately check lining wear, measure
in place. Figure 13-8 earlier in this chapter shows how the thickness of the linings above the shoe or rivets, as
these bearings are assembled and the order in which to shown in Figure 13-20. Brake lining thickness gauges
remove the parts. Remove the dust cap and cotter pin. or a tire tread depth gauge can provide an accurate mea-
Discard the cotter pin, as it will not be reused. Loosen surement of lining thickness. This will provide you with
the retaining nut and remove the washer and outer an actual measurement of the amount of lining remaining
bearing. Place the parts in the bearing cap or in a shop for comparison to the manufacturer’s service informa-
rag. Slide the drum off the spindle, and remove the brake tion. Typically, brake linings should be replaced when
dust from the drum and brake assembly using the appro- they are worn to the point that about 1 16 inch (1.5 mm)
priate procedures. remains.
Seal
Brake
drum
Bearing
Gasket
Bearing
Adjusting

nut
Axle
shaft
FIGURE 13-16 Removing the drum from a full-floating rear axle requires removing the axle shaft, axle nut,
and wheel bearings.
FIGURE 13-17 Dust accumulates in the drum as the linings

and drum wear. Use a brake vacuum or wet sink to collect FIGURE 13-18 Wet brake dust and components indicate a
the dust. leak, in this case, from the wheel cylinder.

A Hard or chill spots
FIGURE 13-19 Rear wheel drive vehicles can leak differen-

tial lubricant past the axle seals and onto the brake assembly.
B Heat checks
FIGURE 13-20 Measuring lining thickness. This technician is

using a tire tread depth gauge.
Drum Inspection

Check the friction surface of the drum for scoring, signs
of overheating—which often turns the metal blue—
and cracks.
Note any evidence of defects in the friction surface; see C Cracked drum web
Figure 13-21. Hard spots in the drum are caused by over- FIGURE 13-21 Examples of drum defects.
heating the brakes, causing the metal to change under heat
stress. Hard spot formation requires drum replacement.
Heat checks or cracks form from the drum overheating dur-
ing operation. Though not as deep into the metal as hard Other types of drum problems include scored, bell-
spots, these fine cracks typically require drum replacement mouthed, concave, and convex friction surfaces, as
to fix. Since both of these conditions are caused by exces- shown in Figure 13-22. Scoring results from worn lin-
sive heat, a thorough inspection of all other brake compo- ings, the content of the linings, such as metals and debris
nents is necessary. In addition, talking with the driver of being trapped between the drum and the brake linings.
the vehicle may help you determine how these problems A bell-mouthed drum is one in which the inside diam-
occurred and help to prevent their happening again. eter is less than the diameter around the outside of the
Cracks in the drum facing, such as around lug holes, can drum. This is caused when mechanical fade occurs and
occur from extreme stress or from a collision. Cracking in the drum expands. Increasing brake pressure expands
the friction surface is a result of overheating and extreme the drum, which does not contract back into its orig-
stress when braking. A cracked drum should be replaced. inal shape when it cools. Reusing drums with friction

A B C D
Scored Bell-mouthed Concave Convex
drum drum drum drum
FIGURE 13-22 Examples of drum wear patterns.
surfaces worn beyond service limits is a common cause

of bell-mouthing.
Concave wear results from extreme braking pressure
against the shoe distorting the shoe and lining so that
more pressure is exerted in the center of the lining than
at the inner and outer edges. Convex wear can occur
when the drum friction surface is too thin and/or too hot,
and the pressure of the shoe during braking widens the
open end of the drum.

Determining if a drum is bell-mouthed, concave, or
convex requires using a drum micrometer to measure the
drum diameter. This is discussed later in this chapter.
Inspect Brake Hardware

Drum brake hardware consists of the springs and FIGURE 13-23 Pull the wheel cylinder dust boot back to
related parts of the drum brake assembly. It is often dif- check for leaking cups.
ficult to determine the condition of these parts unless the
brakes are disassembled, which will be covered in more
Cup
detail in the Servicing section later in this chapter. Look
Piston
for obvious problems like broken springs or adjuster Rust buildup
cables. Try to rotate the star wheel adjuster in both direc-
tions to determine if it is operational. It is common for
the star wheel adjuster to seize. This prevents the shoes
from adjusting properly as the linings and drum wear.
Wheel Cylinder Inspection

Even if the wheel cylinder does not show any obvious
signs of leakage, this does not mean it is not faulty. Begin
by carefully pulling the dust boots away from the cylin-
der to check for fluid trapped under the boots, as shown
in Figure 13-23. If fluid drips from the dust boot, this

means the cups are leaking, and the cylinder needs to be
rebuilt or replaced. Next, carefully try to push the pis- Deposits and
tons back into the bore. Moisture in the brake fluid can, corrosion
over time, allow the wheel cylinder pistons to rust into FIGURE 13-24 Rust can build up in the wheel cylinder, seiz-
place in the bore. This is illustrated in Figure 13-24. This ing the pistons. The rust can also cause the cylinder to leak after
prevents the rear brakes from applying, which greatly shoe replacement as the cups are pushed back into the cylinder
increases lining life, but is not good for overall braking bore and over the rust.
performance as it causes the front brakes to perform

100 percent of the braking.
Though not as common now, some vehicles use a
spring clip to secure the wheel cylinder to the backing
plate instead of bolts. Make sure the wheel cylinder is
tightly secured to the backing plate and does not twist or
move at all. On vehicles that use clips to secure the wheel
cylinder, the clip becomes weak over time and does not

hold the cylinder tight. When the brakes are applied, the
torque of shoes trying to spin with the drum can twist the
wheel cylinder. This wears the hole in the backing plate
where the wheel cylinder is located. A backing plate that
is worn because of this problem must be replaced.
FIGURE 13-25 An example of using a wet sink to clean and
trap the brake dust.
Checking Parking Brake Operation
If you have not checked the parking brake operation yet,
inspect the cables and note signs of use as discussed Brake Service
earlier in this chapter. With the drum removed, have an Brake services are often among the first types of jobs
assistant slowly and carefully start to apply the parking given to entry-level technicians. Because of this, you
brake. If the parking brake is operating correctly, the need to be familiar with the operation and service of both
shoes will start to expand slightly. If they do, stop and servo and nonservo drum brake assemblies. You should
release the parking brake, and make sure the shoes retract also keep these service points in mind:
fully. A parking brake that is stuck and applied, even
• Use proper cleaning techniques to remove brake
slightly, can prevent you from reinstalling the drum after
dust.
the brake shoes have been replaced. Always check the
parking brake operation as part of the drum brake inspec- • Familiarize yourself with how the brakes are assem-
tion to determine if there are problems with the parking bled before taking them apart.
brake before you begin to estimate repairs and begin ser- • Have a parts diagram or picture of the brakes as they
vice. Both you and the customer will be unhappy if after are before disassembly.
you replace the shoes and hardware and resurface the • Take one side apart at a time; this allows you to keep
drums, and then find out the drums cannot be reinstalled the other side intact for reference.
because the parking brake is stuck partially applied.
• Use the appropriate brake tools for disassembly and
reassembly.
Drum Brake Disassembly • Carefully inspect all components as you take the
As stated at the beginning of the chapter, servicing either brakes apart.
servo or nonservo brakes often requires special brake
As each part is removed, lay it aside so that it is
spring tools, which should be used to help prevent dam-
arranged as the brakes are assembled.
age to components and personal injury.
Begin by cleaning as much brake dust from the linings Remove and Inspect Brake Servo Brake
and hardware as possible with either a wet sink or brake Components. There are many types and styles of servo
dust vacuum, as shown in Figure 13-25. Take a close brakes and many ways in which one can service them.
look at the brake assembly and note how the parts are The steps shown here represent one type of servo brake
arranged, which direction springs are placed, and how and common service steps. You may find that this pro-
the parts fit together. If you are working on brakes that cedure works for you, or you may develop your own. As
you are not familiar with, you may want to locate a parts you remove the components, place them on a work space
view diagram of the brake assembly from your service as they are arranged on the vehicle.
information. If a diagram is unavailable, you can draw a
rough sketch of how the brake is assembled. Also, you • Remove the return springs from the anchor, as shown
can use a digital camera or camera phone to take pictures in Figure 13-26. If the return springs hold the self-
before you begin disassembly. The reason for this is that adjuster cable guide, remove the guide also.
drum brakes can have many pieces that, although they • Remove the holddown spring on the shoe that
may go back together in many ways, really only have secures the self-adjuster lever, and remove the self-
one way that they are correctly assembled. adjuster links or guides.
332 Chapter 13t Drum Brake System Inspection and Service
Inspect the Backing Plate. Once the shoes and

hardware are removed, you will need to inspect the back-
ing plate. Use a wire brush to remove rust from the raised
pads and around the anchor. Check the pads for evidence
of wear, such as grooves or ridges worn into the pad.
Over time, the shoe moving on the pad can wear away

the metal and restrict the shoe from moving properly.
Make sure the backing plate is flat across the pads from
front to rear using a ruler or straightedge. Check the lab-
yrinth seal of the backing plate for damage. This area
of the backing plate can be damaged if someone tries to
FIGURE 13-26 Using a spring tool to remove the return remove a stuck drum by prying it off.
springs from the anchor.
Nonservo Brake Service. Just like servo brakes,
there are many styles of nonservo brakes, each with their
r 3FNPWFUIFTIPF TFMGBEKVTUFS BOEQBSLJOHCSBLF own service procedures. In general, servicing nonservo
strut. brakes is nearly identical to servicing servo brakes. The
r 3FNPWFUIFSFNBJOJOHIPMEEPXOTQSJOH TIPXOJO main differences are that nonservo brakes typically com-
Figure 13-27. bine the self-adjuster and parking brake strut functions.
r %JTDPOOFDUUIFQBSLJOHCSBLFMFWFSGSPNUIFTIPF This means that nonservo brakes usually do not have a
and remove the shoe. separate strut between the shoes for the parking brake.
The general steps to remove the shoes include:
r "SSBOHFUIFDPNQPOFOUTBTUIFZBSFJOTUBMMFE BT
shown in Figure 13-28. r 3FNPWFUIFVQQFSSFUVSOTQSJOHGJSTU5IJTJTVTV-
ally the spring near the self-adjuster, as shown in
Figure 13-29 with arrow 1.
r 3FNPWFUIFIPMEEPXOTQSJOHT MBCFMFEJO'JHVSF
13-29.
r 3FNPWFUIFTFMGBEKVTUFS MBCFMFEJO'JHVSF
r %JTDPOOFDU UIF QBSLJOH CSBLF MFWFS GSPN POF PG
the shoes. The shoes and lower spring may now be
removed while connected together.
FIGURE 13-27 Using a spring tool to remove coil-type

holddown springs.
FIGURE 13-28 Once the parts are removed, lay them out to
make sure you know how everything fits back together and to FIGURE 13-29 A suggested method of disassembling a
inspect the parts for wear and damage. nonservo brake.
Component Inspection Anti-noise

Once the shoes, springs, and other hardware are removed, spring washer
you will need to make a close inspection of the parts to Pivot
see if they can be reused or should be replaced. nut
Socket
Brake Linings. If you are removing the brake shoes, Identification
it is most likely because they are being replaced. However, grooves
brake shoes may be removed so that another component

can be replaced, such as a parking brake cable, and then
reinstalled if there is sufficient lining remaining. Adjusting
Inspect the linings for wear. Bonded linings should Thrust screw
be replaced when the lining reaches 1 16 inch or about washer
1.5 mm, and riveted linings should be replaced when
FIGURE 13-31 Inspect the self-adjuster for damage to
the lining is 1 16 inch or 1.5 mm above the rivet. Refer
the star wheel, and clean and lubricate the adjuster threads
to the manufacturer’s service information for the exact
and posts.
wear specification. Check for cracks in the lining, espe-
cially around the rivets. If the linings are shiny or blue,
Some parts are not usually replaced during routine
this indicates glazing. Glazed linings decrease stopping
brake service, such as the self-adjuster, levers, links,
performance and can make noise. Glazing can be caused
and parking brake components. That does not mean
by poor-quality brake lining materials or by the brakes
that these parts cannot sustain wear or damage or need
getting overheated.
replacement. All the components need to be carefully
Spring and Hardware Inspection. Springs and inspected, and any part that is damaged or worn beyond
hardware should be cleaned and inspected once the brake usefulness should be replaced.
is disassembled. Examples of spring damage are shown Self-Adjuster Inspection. Many vehicles use
in Figure 13-30. Many shops recommend replacing all threaded star wheel self-adjusters, similar to those in
of the springs and spring hardware every time the shoes Figure 13-31. Check the star wheel for wear on the con-
are replaced, and there is merit to this practice. Since the tact points. If the contacts are worn down, the adjuster
rear brakes tend to last longer than the front brakes, the lever may not be able to actuate the self-adjuster. Damage
springs and hardware are in service for a longer time and to the star wheel itself is common when pliers are used
are subject to many more heat cycles. This can weaken to turn the adjuster instead of a brake spoon or screw-
the springs. In addition, rust eventually eats away at the driver. Unscrew the threaded section from the body and
springs, further weakening them. Rear spring and hardware remove the unthreaded end. If there is a buildup of rust
kits are inexpensive and provide insurance against future on the internal parts, use a wire brush to clean off the
brake problems that can result from weak springs. rust. Before reassembly, apply a very light amount of
brake lubricant to the threads and the unthreaded end of
the adjuster. This will make the adjuster easier to operate
Spread or
and will slow rust formation.
collapsed Damaged On vehicles with ratcheting self-adjusters, move the
coils shank adjustment lever to ensure that it operates freely. If the
adjuster is severely rusted, you may need to disassem-
ble the pieces to completely remove the rust and lubri-
cate the parts. Inspect the teeth or splines on the adjuster.
Movement between the parts can wear away the teeth,
Hook
preventing the adjuster working properly.
Spread Brake Drum Inspection
and Measurement
Bent or Brake drums are inspected for problems just as brake
Discoloration twisted rotors are, but the types of problems are different.
shank As the drums wear, their inside diameter increases, and
FIGURE 13-30 Return springs rust, bend, and break. Many the amount of metal that makes up the friction surface
technicians replace the springs each time the shoes are decreases. This reduces the amount of heat the drum can
replaced. withstand before deforming or cracking.
Clean and Inspect Drum. Examine the outside

of the brake drum for damage, which is often caused by
a hammer being used to remove the drum for inspection.
Look at the friction surface and note signs of excessive
heat, cracks, or scoring. If the surface is blue, it means
that the brakes have been overheated. Cracked drums can
also be caused by overheating or by the friction surface
wearing beyond its service limit. Scoring is the result of
brake linings worn down into the shoe. If any of these
conditions exist, the drum should be replaced.
Drum Measurement. Unlike disc brake rotors,

brake drums become larger as they wear. As the friction
surface of the drum wears away, the space between the
shoes and the drum increases. Like brake rotors, drums
often have specifications for a machine-to limit, which is

the largest the drum can be and remain in service. Drums
have a maximum diameter spec, which is stamped into
the drum, as shown in Figure 13-32. Drum specifications
can also be found in brake specification guides and in the
vehicle’s service information. FIGURE 13-32 An example of a brake drum wear specification.
Drums often have two wear specifications, machine-
to and maximum diameter. The machine-to limit is typ-
ically about 0.030 inch (0.8 mm) less than maximum drum shown in Figure 13-32 will be used. The maximum
diameter. This is the wear buffer used to allow the drum diameter is 226.3 mm or 22.63 cm. A metric drum
to remain in service before it must be replaced. If a drum micrometer has two sets of graduated markings on the
is between the machine-to and maximum diameter during shaft, one set in odd centimeters, shown in Figure 13-33,
your inspection, it should be replaced. and the other in even centimeters on the opposite side of
Measuring the drum requires a brake drum micrometer. the shaft. Each small mark between the longer, numbered
To use a metric drum micrometer, begin by determining marks is equal to 2 mm or 0.2 cm. To measure this drum,
the maximum diameter of the drum. In this example, the the mic will be set initially at 220 mm.
Loosen the thumbscrews to slide the anvils

to the starting point of the measurement.
The major divisions represent 27 cm (270 mm), 25 cm (250 mm),
and so on. By placing each anvil on 25, the distance between the
two outside edges of the two anvils will equal 25 cm or 250 mm
with the plunger of the dial indicator at 0.
Each small division is .2 cm or 2 mm.

FIGURE 13-33 The metric micrometer has two scales on the shaft, even and odd numbered centimeters. Each mark
between centimeter marks is 2 millimeters.
Chapter 13t Drum Brake System Inspection and Service 335
The plunger, not shown,

moves the dial indicator
needle a total of 4 mm.
As the plunger moves
outward, the dial rotates
counterclockwise from
zero, showing an
increasing diameter, up to
a maximum of 3 mm. If the
plunger is pushed in, the
dial rotates clockwise and
reads a smaller diameter
of up to 1 mm.
Each minor division

between the whole
millimeter marks is 0.1 mm.

FIGURE 13-34 The dial indicator on the metric micrometer measures to 0.1 mm.
The dial-indicator part of the mic, shown in Place the micrometer into the drum as shown in
Figure 13-34, is used to fine-tune the diameter, down to Figure 13-36. Hold the dial indicator in place, and rotate
0.1 mm. As the plunger is pushed in, the needle swings the opposite end of the micrometer slightly back and forth
counterclockwise. The number indicated by the gauge, in the drum until the maximum diameter is shown on the
from 0 to 3 mm in 0.1 mm increments, is then added to the gauge. Add the gauge reading, shown in Figure 13-37,
initial size setup from the anvil positions on the main shaft. to the original setting to find the maximum diameter. In
For example, the micrometer is set at 22.4 cm (224 mm), this example, the drum is measuring 225.7 mm. This is
as shown in Figure 13-35, and the gauge needle is point- obtained by adding the 1.7 mm on the dial to the 224 mm
ing at the second minor mark, which equals 0.2 mm. setting on the mic between anvils. Note this reading,
remove the micrometer, and reinstall it 90 degrees from
the first position and remeasure. This is because drums
are checked for out-of-round. Out-of-round drums cause

FIGURE 13-36 Measuring the brake drum. Make sure you

move the mic slightly inside the drum to obtain the largest
FIGURE 13-35 Setting the micrometer to measure a drum. diameter reading.

FIGURE 13-37 A close-up of the dial indicator.
FIGURE 13-39 An example of brake lathe adapters.
of different types of lathe mounting adapters. Typically,

a floating drum will require using a hub adapter, spring,
11.3-inch and two open mounting adapters. Install an open adapter,
spring, and hub adapter onto the main arbor, shown in
Figure 13-40. Next, install the outer open adapter, spac-
ers, and arbor nut. Wrap the drum vibration damper belt
11-inch
around the outside of the drum and secure it in place, as

shown in Figure 13-41. Start the lathe and ensure that
the drum is not wobbling or vibrating as it spins.
Next, position the drum as close to the lathe as pos-
FIGURE 13-38 Measuring the drum twice, 90 degrees apart, sible by moving the arbor feed, then move the drum
checks for out-of-round. out slightly. Placing the drum close to the lathe helps
reduce vibration in the drum during machining. Place
the cutting arm near the inside edge of the drum where
brake pulsations when the brakes are applied. An out- the friction surface and face come together. Turn on the
of-round drum is shown in Figure 13-38. This second lathe, and slowly feed the cutting arm and bit until the
measurement is compared to the first to determine if the bit just contacts the drum surface. Now back the bit off
drum is out-of-round. the drum, and turn the lathe off. Loosen the drum on the
If the drum diameter is larger than machine-to or max- arbor, and reposition the drum 180 degrees on the arbor,
imum, it will need to be replaced. If the drum is out- then retighten the arbor nut. Turn the lathe on, and turn
of-round, has excessive scoring or other surface defects, the cutting arm until the bit just contacts the drum a sec-
but is within the wear specification, it will need to be ond time. Turn the lathe off, and compare the scratch
machined before returning to service.
Machining a Brake Drum. Because there are

different types of brake lathes in use, the steps shown
here are general and are not meant to be specific to any
lathe or drum type. Before you attempt to machine a
drum, read the lathe manufacturer’s safety and operating
manual. Brake lathes present a danger from the spinning
components and from the metal shavings coming off the
drum during the machining process. Always wear safety

glasses or a face shield while you are operating a brake
lathe.
To machine a brake drum, first determine the cor-
rect mounting method. Figure 13-39 shows examples FIGURE 13-40 Placing the drum adapters on the arbor.
just touches the drum. Next, move the drum so that the
cutting bit is positioned at the inside edge of the friction
surface. Turn the cutting arm feed so that the bit will
cut into the drum about 0.004 to 0.006 inches (0.1 to
0.15 mm) Engage the lathe feed speed for a rough or
fast cut. Once the cut is complete, turn the lathe off and
inspect the drum. If the surface defects and/or low spots
are removed, the drum is ready for the final slow cut. If
the drum shows surface defects or low spots, repeat the

rough cut until the surface is free of defects. Performing
the final slow cut is the same as a rough cut except the
arbor feed speed is much slower.
Once the final cut is done, turn the lathe off and
inspect the drum. The surface finish should be smooth
FIGURE 13-41 Once the drum is mounted, secure the vibra- and free of all defects. Dismount the drum from the lathe,
tion band around the drum, covering the entire width of the and clean the friction surface with soapy water to remove
friction surface. all metal dust. Dry the drum and remeasure its final
diameter. If the drum diameter is below the machine-to-
specification, the drum must be replaced.
cuts. Both cuts should be parallel on the drum surface,
as shown in Figure 13-42. If the cuts are parallel, the Wheel Cylinder Replacement
drum is mounted correctly and is ready to machine. If during your inspection you find a leaking wheel cyl-
If the cuts are opposite each other, 180 degrees apart inder, it must be either rebuilt or replaced. Most techni-
on the drum’s surface, dismount the drum and inspect cians replace leaking wheel cylinders, as the cost is often
the mounting components for damage. Scratch cuts less for a new cylinder than it is for a rebuild kit and the
opposite each other indicate there is runout in the drum labor to overhaul the cylinder.
setup. Remount the drum, and perform the two scratch To remove the wheel cylinder, first remove the brake
cuts again. line using a flare or line wrench. Next, remove the two
To machine the drum, position the cutting arm near bolts or the clip that secures the cylinder to the backing
the center of the drum surface, and move the bit until it plate. Remove the cylinder, and install the new one into
the backing plate. Thread the brake line fitting into the
cylinder by hand, make sure it threads in straight and sets
Second properly. Installing the fitting first allows you to make
scratch cut small adjustments to the cylinder’s position to make get-
ting the fitting started easier. Next, install the bolts or clip
First that secure the cylinder in place and tighten to specifi-
scratch cut cations, then tighten the brake line fitting. Do not over-
tighten the fitting as this can crack the flare or strip the
fitting’s threads. Once the brakes are reassembled, you
will need to bleed the hydraulic system of air. Bleeding
the brake system is discussed in Chapter 11.
Brake Reassembly
Before you start to reassemble the brakes, lay out all of
the parts as they appear when installed. This can help you
determine in what order the parts should be installed and
ensures that you have all the parts.

Apply a very light coating of brake lubricant to the
raised pads on the backing plate, as shown in Figure 13-43.
This allows the shoes to move back and forth without
FIGURE 13-42 An illustration of the scratch cut. This is per- making noise. Apply a very light coat of lube to any points
formed to ensure that the drum is mounted correctly on the where there is movement between components, such as at
lathe. pivot points for adjusters or parking brake levers.

FIGURE 13-43 Inspect the backing plate pads for wear and
straightness.
FIGURE 13-44 Many technicians tape the linings to keep dirt
from contaminating the new shoes.
There are several types of synthetic and silicone-based
brake lubricants available, designed for high-temperature
brake applications. For backing plates, high-temperature return spring. Install the parking brake strut, self-adjuster
synthetic grease is often used, but always refer to the man- levers or guides, and then the second return spring. Once
ufacturer’s service recommendations before applying any the shoes are in place, install the self-adjuster assem-
type of lubricant to brake parts. Do not use a low-tempera- bly. Check that all parts are installed correctly and that
ture grease or any grease not suited for brake applications. the shoes are seated on the pads and against the anchor.
Using the incorrect lubricant may cause the lube to migrate Nonservo brake reassembly is similar. Install the parts in
or move when hot, contaminating the brake linings. reverse order of disassembly.
Before attempting to install the shoes, many techni- Once the entire assembly is together, you will need to
cians will cover the linings with masking tape, as shown adjust the shoe-to-drum clearance. There are two ways
in Figure 13-44. This prevents lube and any leftover dirt this is done: using a clearance gauge or by repeating
from contaminating the linings during installation. installing and testing the drag of the drum.
Begin to reassemble the assembly in the reverse A clearance gauge like that shown in Figure 13-4
order from which you took it apart. For servo brakes, is used to measure the drum diameter and then trans-
install the shoes and holddown springs first, then attach a fer that dimension to the shoes, as in Figure 13-45.
1. Set to Drum Diameter 2. Find Correct Brake

Shoe Diameter
FIGURE 13-45 Using a Safe-Set to preadjust the brake shoes.
If the distance across the shoes is smaller than the drum’s

diameter, turn the self-adjuster until the two are about
the same. Then install the drum, and check the amount Wheel
of drag between the drum and the shoes. cylinder
Some technicians perform this adjustment by install-
ing the drum and feeling the drag between the drum and
the shoes. If the drum rotates freely without any drag
from the shoes, then the adjuster is moved out until there
is some drag between the drum and shoes. Many servo
brake designs have an access hole in the lower section

Starwheel
of the backing plate, shown in Figure 13-46. This allows
adjuster
access to adjust the shoes with the drum installed. The
self-adjuster on nonservo brakes is usually located up Adjustment hole
near the top of the brake shoes and an access hole is (rubber plug removed)
sometimes provided, as shown in Figure 13-47 and FIGURE 13-48 An illustration of the self-adjuster access on
Figure 13-48. a nonservo brake.
Regardless of how you perform this adjustment, it
is important that the manufacturer’s procedures are fol- It is important not to adjust the shoes out too far and cre-
lowed. Typically, the drum will have a small amount of ate excessive drag between the shoes and the drum. The
drag from contacting the shoes. However, the vehicle proper adjustment provides a high and firm brake pedal
manufacturer may specify adjusting the shoes to contact and allows the parking brake to be applied properly. If
the drum and then backing the adjustment in slightly. the shoe-to-drum clearance is excessive, the brake pedal
will be low and parking brake travel will be excessive.
It is important that the shoes are not adjusted too far,
making the drum tight. This can make the brakes grab,
overheat the brakes, and lead to glazing and damage.
Once the brakes are properly adjusted, remove the
drum and perform a final inspection of your work. If
everything is correct, reinstall the drum. If the wheel cyl-
inder was serviced, you will need to bleed the system.
This should be done before the wheel and tire are rein-
stalled. Once it is complete, install the wheel and tire,
and torque the wheel fasteners to specs.
Be sure to test-drive (if able) the vehicle before you
FIGURE 13-46 Adjusting the shoe-to-drum clearance return it to the customer. Ensure proper parking brake
through the backing plate on a servo brake. operation as specified by manufacturer.
Drum Parking Brake Service

The effectiveness of a parking brake on a vehicle with
rear drum brakes depends on how well the shoes are
adjusted. When the parking brake is applied, the rear
parking brake cables pull a lever attached to one of
the brake shoes, as shown in Figure 13-49. As the park-
ing brake lever moves, it pushes against either a parking
brake strut or the self-adjuster, depending on the partic-
ular style of brakes on the vehicle. If the shoe-to-drum
clearance is small, as with properly adjusted brakes, then
the parking brake will be able to force the shoes tightly

against the drum, locking it in place. However, if the
shoe-to-drum clearance is excessive, the parking brake
travel may not be sufficient to force the shoes tightly
FIGURE 13-47 The plug covers the access hole to the self- against the drum, and the parking brake will not hold the
adjuster. vehicle in place.
2. Lever moves link

3. Lever works against link, against primary shoe
and pivot forces secondary and shoe against drum.
shoe against the drum.
Spring
1. Cable pulls lever. Conduit

FIGURE 13-49 The parking brake cable passes through the backing plate and attaches to a lever, which attaches
to one of the shoes.
Because the parking brake cables are located on the If however, you are uncertain about the brake releas-
underside of the vehicle, they tend to rust and seize ing, you will need to advise the customer that testing
over time, making the parking brake inoperative. For the parking brake may result in it getting stuck and that
those who live in areas of the country where rust is an additional repair work will be required to correct the
issue, stuck parking brakes are a common problem. problem.
For technicians, it is important to check parking brake
operation before servicing the rear drum brakes. If the Inspect Cables
parking brake is stuck in the applied position, from Parking brake cables are strands of steel cable encased in
seized cables, and you replace the brake shoes, you a weather-resistant outer shell, as shown in Figure 13-50.
may not be able to reinstall the brake drum over the The cables are prone to rusting and seizing, as are the
new shoes. This is because the parking brake being adjusters that are mounted outside with the cables. You
applied forces the shoes apart, increasing the shoe can check cable operation, if you are careful, by pulling
diameter. the cable while you are under the vehicle. Figure 13-51
shows an exposed brake cable where you can attempt to
Inspect Parking Brake Operation pull to check cable operation. The cable should be tight
Checking parking brake operation can be tricky. If you and should move slightly when pulled. If the cable does
apply the parking brake on a vehicle in which the cus- not move, do not continue to pull. It does not take much
tomer does not regularly use the parking brake, you may force to actually pull the cable to start to set the parking
set the brake and find that it will not release. brake. If it feels tight and you find you will have to strain
Begin by asking the customer if he or she uses the to move the cable, the cable is probably seized.
parking brake. If it is not regularly used, you should warn It is sometimes possible to service a sticking cable
them that as part of a complete brake inspection, the and restore it to its proper working condition, although
parking brake must be checked, and that it is possible it is usually more cost and time effective to replace the
that when applied it may not release. cable.
To check parking brake operation and adjustment,
the vehicle manufacturer will have a procedure to fol- Replacing Parking Brake Cables
low. A common example is to raise the vehicle off the Because the type and location of parking brake cables
ground, and apply the parking brake a certain number varies from vehicle to vehicle, the steps described here
of clicks, then check to see if the brake has applied. If are general and are not specific to any particular make
you are confident that the parking brake is not seized, or model.
you should follow the service provided by the manu- Replacing a rear cable means removing the cable from
facturer. the drum brake assembly. This may require at least partial
Outer
conduit
cover
Adjusting
Conduit screw
Protector Spring Inner

cable
Outer
cable
FIGURE 13-50 An illustration of a shielded parking brake cable.
Parking
brake
lever

FIGURE 13-51 An example of a parking brake cable on a
Cable
FWD car.
FIGURE 13-52 Removing a parking brake cable from the
parking brake lever.
disassembly of the brake shoes to allow access to the
parking brake lever. To remove the cable from the lever,
hold the crimped end of the cable with pliers and pull the or where it connects to another cable. Once loose, pull
spring to allow the cable to slide out of the lever. This is the cable out of the parking brake actuator lever. Remove
shown in Figure 13-52. Once the lever is off the cable, the cable from its mounts and brackets, and remove the
you will need to remove the cable from the backing plate. cable from the vehicle.
Most cables use a three-pronged retainer, as shown in Before installing the new cable, match it to the old
Figure 13-53. Squeeze the prongs flat with pliers or a cable to ensure it is the correct length and has the same
hose clamp, and slide the cable from the backing plate. types of ends. Route the new cable into place, and secure
Some cables connect to an equalizer or adjuster while it into place. Connect the cable ends, and make sure the
others connect to other cables using a union, as shown end is secure in its connection.
in Figure 13-54. To separate the cable from the connec- Once it is installed, you need to adjust the parking
tor, hold each in a pair of pliers and pull the cable end brake. This is usually done by tightening an adjustment
from the union. The cable may require tapping out of the nut at the equalizer, as shown in Figure 13-55. To set the
union with a punch and hammer if the two do not easily final tension, refer to the manufacturer’s service informa-
separate. tion for the procedure to test parking brake operation.
Replacing the front cable will require removing the This usually requires setting the brake a certain num-
cable from the hand or foot brake. Begin by removing the ber of “clicks,” and then checking to see if the wheels
rear connection of the front cable, either at the equalizer spin. Proper adjustment of the parking brake is important
342 Chapter 13t Drum Brake System Inspection and Service
because if it is left too loose, the brake will not hold. If

the adjustment is too tight, this can cause the parking
brake to remain applied all the time.
DRUM IN HAT PARKING BRAKES

Retaining 4PNF SFBS EJTD CSBLF TZTUFNT VTF B TFU PG NJOJBUVSF
tabs
shoes housed within the hat of the rotor for the park-
ing brake. This arrangement, shown in Figure 13-56, is
called drum in hat.
4JODF JU JT VTFE BT B QBSLJOH CSBLF UIF TIPFT BSF
applied mechanically, through the parking brake lever
or pedal and parking brake cables. The cable pulls on
a cam, shown in Figure 13-57, which pushes the shoes
apart. The assembly uses two shoes, holddown springs,
return springs, and an adjuster mechanism nearly identi-
cal to a regular rear drum brake system.
Though it is used only as the parking brake, the
shoes and hardware will eventually wear and need to
Hose
clamp
Cable
assembly
FIGURE 13-53 An example of how a parking brake cable
attaches to a backing plate.

FIGURE 13-56 A drum in hat parking brake has a set of
small brake shoes housed inside the hat of a brake rotor.
FIGURE 13-54 A connection of two parking brake cables.
Parking
brake
equalizer
FIGURE 13-57 This shows the actuator that forces the shoes
FIGURE 13-55 Adjusting the parking brake. apart when the parking brake is applied.
Chapter 13t Drum Brake System Inspection and Service 343

FIGURE 13-58 Inspect the entire brake assembly. This vehicle FIGURE 13-60 An adjustment plug for the drum in hat park-
has severely rusted drum in hat brake shoes. ing brake.
CSBLFJTTFU4PNFWFIJDMFTBMTPVTFBOBVEJCMFXBSOJOH
such as beeping chime, to alert the driver if the brake is
set and the vehicle is in motion.
If the warning light does not illuminate with the park-
ing brake set, determine if the same light is used by the
brake fluid level sensor or pressure differential valve.
If it is the same light, try to trigger the light by unplug-
ging or grounding the level sensor or pressure differen-
tial switch. If the light still does not illuminate, suspect
a burned-out bulb, which requires at least partial instru-
ment panel disassembly to correct.

If the light illuminates from the fluid level or pres-
sure differential switch, locate the parking brake indi-
cator switch, which is located with the parking brake
lever or pedal. Using a wiring diagram, you can test the
FIGURE 13-59 An example of return and holddown springs
switch and wiring. Testing switches is covered in detail
in a drum in hat parking brake.
in Chapter 18.
be replaced. An example of a high-mileage drum in hat

system is shown in Figure 13-58. Note the linings have
deteriorated and fallen off the shoes. Another concern
with some vehicles is that the backing plate that holds
the drum in hat assembly tends to rust apart. To service
the rear brake system, the backing plate and all related
parts require replacement.
4FSWJDJOHUIFTFCSBLFTIPFTJTTJNJMBSUPSFHVMBSSFBS
drum brake assemblies. Remove the return springs and
holddown springs to remove the shoes, as shown in
Figure 13-59. Clean and lubricate the backing plate
and adjuster. Reinstall the shoes and rotor, and adjust

UIFTIPFDMFBSBODF4IPFDMFBSBODFNBZCFBEKVTUFE
through the backing plate, as shown in Figure 13-60.
PARKING BRAKE WARNING INDICATOR

When the parking brake is set, the red BRAKE warn- FIGURE 13-61 The BRAKE light should illuminate when the
ing light should illuminate on the dash, as shown in parking brake is set. If it does not, check the electrical switch
Figure 13-61. This alerts the driver that the parking mounted to the parking brake actuator for power.
SUMMARY
A special brake drum micrometer is used to measure the Lay out the old parts, and compare them with the new
wear of the drum’s friction surface. parts during lining replacement.
Drum brake pulsation occurs if the drum becomes Measure and adjust the rear shoe clearance before adjust-
out-of-round. ing the parking brake.
Dust accumulation in the drum brake assemblies can Refer to the manufacturer’s service information for the
cause noise complaints. correct type of lubricant to use on drum brake components.
When you are replacing brake shoes, take a picture of the Measure the brake drum with a micrometer to determine
brakes before disassembly. if it is within wear limits to remain in service.
REVIEW QUESTIONS
1. A or a wet sink can be used to clean 8. When the rear brake shoes are replaced, a return
brake dust from the brake assemblies. spring breaks from age and rust. Technician A
says only the broken spring should be replaced.
2. An out-of-round brake drum can cause a brake
Technician B says all of the brake springs should
pedal .
be replaced. Who is correct?
3. accumulation between the shoes and a. Technician A c. Both A and B
drum can be a source of brake noise.
b. Technician B d. Neither A nor B
4. Before adjusting the parking brake, a technician
9. The parking brake does not lock the rear wheels
should first check the
even if fully applied. Technician A says excessive
brake adjustment.
shoe-to-drum clearance may be the cause.
5. Full-floating rear differentials may require Technician B says rusted self-adjusters may be the
removing the to cause. Who is correct?
remove the drums to inspect the brakes. a. Technician A c. Both A and B
6. A vehicle with rear drum brakes has a grinding b. Technician B d. Neither A nor B
noise when the brakes are applied. Technician A
10. Technician A says to correct a brake pulsation
says excessive dust buildup in the drum brake
concern, the rear drums may need to be machined.
can cause this. Technician B says worn rear brake
Technician B says an on-car brake lathe can
linings can cause this. Who is correct?
be used to correct out-of-round drums. Who is
a. Technician A c. Both A and B correct?
b. Technician B d. Neither A nor B a. Technician A c. Both A and B
7. The service brake pedal is low but firm and the b. Technician B d. Neither A nor B
parking brake does not hold the vehicle in place.
Which is the most likely cause?
a. Misadjusted parking brake
b. Excessive shoe-to-drum clearance
c. Parking brake stuck on
d. Seized parking brake cable

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Brake System

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C H A P T E R

© Cengage Learning 2014

B eing able to inspect and service the brake system

Service Tools and Safety

© Cengage Learning 2014

Drum Brake Service Tools

FIGURE 13-2 An example of a return spring tool.

FIGURE 13-3 This tool is used to remove coil-type holddown

FIGURE 13-4 The Safe-Set is used to measure the drum and

dust collection. Many shops use a vacuum system, like

Figure 13-1 earlier, are another common method that traps

Drum Brake Inspection

© Cengage Learning 2014

© Cengage Learning 2014

parking brake is used by looking at the cable where it Worn drum

© Cengage Learning 2014

FIGURE 13-10 Drums will often have two ridges, one on

and can be removed and discarded. If the drum has not

adjusted, you may need to loosen or back off the self-

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© Cengage Learning 2014

© Cengage Learning 2014

removed with an impact driving screwdriver, as shown in

Nonfloating Drum Removal. Some vehicles

If the bearings, grease, grease seal, and hub are free

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arrangements are the sealed bearing, tapered wheel bear-

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© Cengage Learning 2014

FIGURE 13-17 Dust accumulates in the drum as the linings

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FIGURE 13-19 Rear wheel drive vehicles can leak differen-

FIGURE 13-20 Measuring lining thickness. This technician is

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© Cengage Learning 2014

surfaces worn beyond service limits is a common cause

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Inspect Brake Hardware

Wheel Cylinder Inspection

in Figure 13-23. If fluid drips from the dust boot, this

performance as it causes the front brakes to perform

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Inspect the Backing Plate. Once the shoes and

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FIGURE 13-27 Using a spring tool to remove coil-type

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Component Inspection Anti-noise

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Clean and Inspect Drum. Examine the outside

Drum Measurement. Unlike disc brake rotors,

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Loosen the thumbscrews to slide the anvils

Each small division is .2 cm or 2 mm.

The plunger, not shown,

Each minor division

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© Cengage Learning 2014

FIGURE 13-36 Measuring the brake drum. Make sure you

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© Cengage Learning 2014

FIGURE 13-39 An example of brake lathe adapters.

of different types of lathe mounting adapters. Typically,

around the outside of the drum and secure it in place, as

Machining a Brake Drum. Because there are