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Build Your Own Hookah And Save

Plus
Shallow Water Diving Apparatus Helmets
Original 2004 Edition
Part 2
This file was downloaded from:
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This is the second part of a two part article.
Webmasters feel free to post this file on your website. Readers, distribute
like crazy.

By Carlos Silva
SECTION 3 OPEN END (CONTINUOUS FLOW, FREE FLOW) SYSTEMS
AND SHALLOW WATER DIVING
The Basics

The previous section showed you how to build a simple and inexpensive system of surface supplied air known as the
‘hookah type‘. By doing away with many components, the open ended system of surface supplied air is simpler and
less expensive,

Hookah complicates the system by using a regulator. The regulator maintains high pressure (80 psi +), requiring high
pressure rated hoses, and increasing the workload on the compressor, therefore requiring a larger compressor, and
drive. By switching to an open ended system the only impediment the compressor needs to overcome is the static water
pressure. No need for complicated valves, auto shut off switches, regulator, expensive hoses...

The purpose of the regulator in scuba gear is to conserve air. To a scuba diver air is limited to the amount stored in his
tank(s). Hookah divers have an unlimited supply of air, the regulator only makes gear more expensive, heavier, and
costlier. More on this later.

There are several types of open ended system out there we’ll discuss a few, including but not limited to:
Helmet diving
Regulator conversion
Vietnamese dive mask
Fireman’s mask conversion
Power Snorkel
Homemade apparatus

The helmet diving is one of the most exciting diving experiences you’ll ever have. Since you can only use this when
upright you are limited to the bottom at all times. You really don’t dive but climb down a rope or ladder. The air is fed
through a hose
replenishing the helmet with fresh breathable air, and exhaled air is expelled out
the bottom. Helmets are usually weighed down to overcome buoyancy, but few designers have begun to strap helmets
to divers.

The gutted out regulator, involves obtaining an old regulator, and removing a valve. That simple! The purge valve
keeps water from filling the mouthpiece
when you inhale and still lets out exhaled gas.

The Vietnamese mask starts out as an average diving mask where an orifice has been bored or punched, and a brass
fitting has been added connected to the hose. When you inhale air rushes though the brass fitting supplied by the hose,

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fitting has been added connected to the hose. When you inhale air rushes though the brass fitting supplied by the hose,
and the exhaled air purges out the sides of the mask. That simple. You must train yourself to breathe solely through
your nose. They are mostly used in third world countries where the natives don’t have money to purchase or build
adequate equipment, and they learn to breathe underwater through their noses. Anyone whose been accustomed to
regulators and snorkels, will never be comfortable with these masks.

The fireman’s mask conversion is a great hack. Besides giving you the ability to breathe with your nasal passage or
mouth, you are also able to talk under water. Imagine being able to talk to your diving partner, or the surface, when you
are working under water.

Home grown systems are variants of regulator hacks. Except these are built from scratch out of PVC or copper pipe
fittings and mouth pieces. Will review some of these later.

Shallow water diving is restricted to 30 feet/ 10 meters or less, and dives which pose no decompression risk, even after
long or multiple dives, from which the un-weighed diver can safely return to the surface by his own efforts. Consult
your diving chart accurate dive limits. The rules that apply to scuba also apply to shallow water diving.

BUILDING YOUR OWN CONTINUOUS FLOW SYSTEM

First you’ll need an oiless compressor. Almost anything will do. There are several good compressors on the market,
you may also use Gast vacuum pumps, or similar, use the exhaust side instead of the intake. If you plan on adapting
one to shallow water diving (shallow water means under 30 feet) then all you need is a 1/2 hp gas motor(a gas trimmer
will do). For a single diver the requirements are 40 psi at 120 cfm. Remember we are talking shallow water diving, do
not use open end gear for deep dives. A larger compressor with more horsepower can supply more divers and be used
with hookah equipment, for deep dives.

When buying a Gast pump/ compressor for shallow water diving choose one that will deliver high amounts of air at
low pressure. The rotary teflon vane type rated 45 psi are good to 35’. Remember shallow water diving is restricted to
30 feet/10 meters.

Safety: Install a check valve as a precaution on your air hose, preferably near the compressor. In case of
compressor malfunction will keep it from sucking the air out of hose.

THE MATH BEHIND OPEN END SYSTEMS

One way to measure the volume is how long it takes to empty an inverted container, corrected for a pressure of 15 psi,
the pressure at 32 feet deep, above atmospheric pressure at the surface of the water. One foot of water is about 1/2
psi.(Actually, it's closer to 14.7/32=0.459 psi per foot of water depth)

The absolute pressure(Pabs.) would be:

Pabs=14.7(sea level) + 1/2d, where d=the depth of water to the discharge depth
of the compressor hose.
Using:

(P1)(V1)(T1)=(P2)(V2)(T2) (gas law), where pis pressure, V is volume and T is temperature

in degrees absolute.

V2=(P1)(V1)/(P2) where T1=T2 and the pressures are absolute pressures.

Let P2=pressure of water at the discharge depth, and let P1 = 14.7

P2= (14.7 + 0.459d), so the equation becomes:

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P2= (14.7 + 0.459d), so the equation becomes:

V=(14.7)(V1)/(14.7 + 0.459d)

So, if your compressor produces 200 cuft/hr at the surface, at a depth of 20 feet,
it will produce:

V(@20 ft)=(14.7)(200)/(14.7 + 0.459 x 20)

=2940/(14-7 + 9.18)
=2940/23.88
=120(approx) cuft.

If there is any heating of the air, during compression and subsequent cooling
of the air, in the diver's supply line, then temperature must be taken into
consideration and the T2 = the discharge air temperature (measured) and
T1=exit air from the compressor output port. I don't think that the difference
is too significant to the calculation, pressures are the overriding
factors, since on the absolute temperature scale (459 degrees Absolute, Rankine,
= zero Fahrenheit, so (example) 60 degrees F =519 degrees R).

The minimum needed at 32 feet is 100-120 cuft/hour, but 150-180 cufh would
BE SAFER.

EXAMPLES OF HOMEBUILT APPARATUS

AIR FILTERS

Next item on your system should be two air filters. Your diving rig needs to comply with Type 1 group D Air
standards (see CGA pamphlet G-7). A simple air filter screwed into the intake will remove most particles from the air,
and your compressor will last longer. Filter such as the one pictured (black) on the right may satisfy the Federal
guidelines, but I recommend you pick up something like the one on the right (yellow). This one can be used on the
high pressure (exhaust) side of the compressor and meets or exceeds Federal guidelines. The filter itself is a roll of
toilet paper. No more trips to the hardware store only to find out your particular model is sold out. This simple filter
kit can be picked up at any automotive supply store. It’s a lifetime oil filter all you replace is the toilet roll when you
change the oil. All you need do to it is add a couple of pipe fittings to the filter, shown on the top right side. This filter
also suppresses the maddening sound put out by the compressor a must if you plan to use a helmet.

The one shown above is made from a Frantz oil cleaner. They are sold on eBay, starting at $9.99.

The hose should be at least 50 feet long. It should be rated higher psi than its intended use. I prefer water hose the
type approved for drinking water, not the garden type, although people have used those with no health hazards. The
hose should be at least 1/4“ ID (inner diameter). A hose that size will probably rob your rig of 7-8 psi. To avoid this
you can switch to a shorter hose say 40 feet and a slightly larger ID perhaps 5/8. The drawbacks to switching to the
latter is restriction of mobility, and expense. Don’t forget, keep your hoses clean! Should you not be able to

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latter is restriction of mobility, and expense. Don’t forget, keep your hoses clean! Should you not be able to
thoroughly clean them throw them away and buy new ones.

The Weight Belt/ Harness

Next piece of equipment is the dive belt. This is where you place you weights and an important piece of equipment,
the relief valve/ harness. To build it you need a thick sheet of aluminum 14 gauge will do. Cut a square at least 1/2”
wider than the belt. Then cut two slits on opposite sides of the square. Next bend the side down, and put it aside for
now. The relief valve is mounted on a tee, you can purchase a brass fitting or build one yourself out of a block of
brass or aluminum. To build one take a rectangular piece size not that important, drill a hole straight through on the
narrower side, and then drill the second hole from the top deep enough to meet the first hole. Next thread the holes. I
happened to use 5/8’ fittings on the sides and 1/4’on the top, you can build it to suit your needs. All you have left to
do is attach the block or tee to the aluminum part you built earlier. If you built out of a block of brass drill four holes
thread them and secure it with four small bolts. Depending on the type of metal used you may weld the parts together.

The weight belt acts as a strain relief for the air hose. This will prevent the helmet, mask, regulator... being tugged
off. The valve controls the air flow into the breathing apparatus. Surplus air is vented out, thereby providing
comfortable flow to the diver. Always point the exhaust vent down! This will expel any condensation along with
surplus air. The picture shows one of my prototypes with the discharge valve horizontally mounted, this flaw was
corrected in future models. Another inherent flaw with this design was the inability to quickly release the weight belt
in an emergency. while testing this belt I found it would take some effort to slip it off the harness. I would often have
to turn the harness perpendicular in order for the belt to fall off. Not good thing when you are 30 feet deep and
something goes wrong with the compressor, or the motor.

There’s an easier and safer way to build an harness using pipe fitting bought at any hardware store. You’ll need to
buy one 5/8” brass tee, two hose barbs a small section of brass pipe threaded on both sides, and a valve. You’ll have
to find barbs matching the inner diameter of your hoses. Also purchase aluminum strip 1/8” thick. To fabricate the
aluminum harness measure the width of your belt. Next measure and inch from the end of the strip and draw a line
across the strip using a square. Next add 1/4” to width of belt measure from the line you just drew and draw another
line. Last measure one more inch and draw another line.

You should have 3 lines as in the picture below. Now cut the piece off at the third line. round off all four corners, and
smooth out all rough edges. Centering the tee on the flat bar, mark four dots with a felt pen. First two should be on the
inside corners of the tee and do the same on the back side of the tee proportionately farter apart, than the first dots.
Now drill four holes that will accommodate four 10/24 bolts, or larger. Cut a section the same size as the middle
section, it can be slightly smaller this is not critical. Round off the corners and smooth down rough edges. Align this
piece over the first part and clamp both together. Using the four holes as guides drill four more on the smaller part.
Last install the bolts on the larger part securing them with four brass nuts.

The next step anneal one of the lines, order is unimportant, and bend it over a metal rod. A large mail fastened to a
vise will do. Bend the piece so that it’s parallel to the longer part, quickly dip the hot par in water so as to restore
rigidity to the metal. Repeat the process so that your part looks like a “C”, with the bolts sticking out of the left side.

The next step is to finish the tee assembly, if you haven’t done so already. Use Teflon tape to prevent leaks, and
thread the parts together. Place the tee inside the four bolts and cover it with the smaller section of aluminum letting
the bolts project through the holes. Tighten this down with four nuts, and ground the bolts off flush with the nuts. To
permanently secure the nuts and bolts, use loctite, or try soldering them.

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The improved Design Supply hose is located in the back, so as

not to interfere with the diver. Shown here attached to the tee.
The bleed off points down, this way moisture runs off and the last
part on the tee is the breathing apparatus connection,
conveniently pointing up. The “C” Strap is easier to fabricate,
and safer to dive with.

This type of an harness should be mounted opposite of the buckle with no other equipment restricting it. The idea
here is to let the belt slip off in case of an emergency.
In such an event hold on to the harness with one hand unbuckle the belt and let it slide off the harness.

Although buying off the shelf parts might seem like a time saver it is in reality more work. The part is also bulkier,
more cumbersome. The best possible combination is to build a “C” type harness, with a machined block of metal,
with the bleed off facing down

Diving helmets

Above is a rudimentary helmet made from a water heater. The

one on the right was manufactured in Wisconsin. Came with
electric compressor 12v or 110v, manual air pump, and could be
used to 35 feet, 11.5 meters.

Helmet diving offers a few advantages over conventional diving. Helmet divers are protected against impact. This is a
plus when working in confined places. The helmet also prevents water from coming into direct contact with the divers
face, hygienic while diving in polluted or contaminated water, thermo efficient in colder weather.

Shallow diving helmets are mere inverted vessels designed to hold an air bubble. The air bubble provides oxygen to
the diver, which is continuously replenished by the compressor. Almost any type of vessel will do, such as the
example above. This was built from a high pressure air tank cut in half, an acrylic window added, and a hose attached.
Regardless of the material used helmets will have a tendency to float, to compensate this lead weights are added to
the helmet. To figure out the amount of lead needed turn the helmet upside down and weigh it, then fill it with water
subtract the first figure from the latter. The figure you end up with is the amount of water the helmet displaces. The
amount of lead needed is higher than the figure otherwise the helmet will fly off your shoulders.

A well designed helmet will have an exhaust port in the back. This keeps the helmet from bobbing up and down, and
all air bubbles from interfering with the diving experience. The helmet should have the air supply line connect below
the diver’s nasal passage, this way if there’s a compressor failure an air bubble will remain in the helmet. Another
feature of a well designed helmet is the looping of the airline inside the helmet over and down on the window. This
keeps the window from fogging up.

One other feature incorporated into many helmets is a silencer. The sound of the compressor inside the helmet is quite
annoying, silencers make helmet diving bearable.
The silencers employed are porous brass plugs used to muffle compressed air tools. I came across some of them

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The silencers employed are porous brass plugs used to muffle compressed air tools. I came across some of them
several years ago, at a flea market. Since then have not been able to locate any sellers.

This is what you need to muzzle the roar.

If this seems overwhelming there are several types of sandblasting helmets easily made into shallow water diving.
many of them come with hose connections. If you purchase a used one you might have to replace the visor and seal it
against leaks.

POWER SNORKELS AND REGULATOR CONVERSIONS

A power snorkel differs from a regulator by eliminating the complex mechanism that regulates and conserves the air
supply. Internally a power snorkel is hollow, with no moving parts at all. The only mechanical part is the purge valve,
and this is situated in the exterior. This valve is very easy to make. these breathing pieces can be built by almost
anyone.

The power snorkel on the right was built, was made from a 1/2" copper plumbing tee, with a brass adapter in one end
(side arm) made from a brass reducer,
(which fit a 1/2" NPT hose barb), a turned brass valve plate in the other
side arm, that was pierced with a radial pattern of holes and a tapped hole
in the center (#8-32 threads) over which was placed a thin round rubber
diaphragm, which acted like a discharge valve, when the diver exhaled.
When he was not breathing, all the air exited this valve. The center arm
of the "tee" had a short length of 1/2" copper pipe brazed into it (all the
fittings were braced together) over which a replacement scuba regulator
mouth piece was slipped on and clamped with a plastic tie-wrap.

The picture on the right shows a regulator converted into a power snorkel.
First the diaphragm/ purge bottom assembly were removed, leaving two orifices. The two holes left were filled with
5 minute epoxy, after curing, the same process was repeated on the reverse side. The needle/ plug were next removed,
making this an open system. The orifice was still too small and the high pressure air flow assembly was cut off near
the hose, so as to leave a 1/4’ hole. The only part left untouched was the purge valve.

When converting scuba regulators into power snorkels, always remove the diaphragm, as these are not designed to
withstand internal high pressure. In an scuba or hookah regulator internal external pressure remains equal. Slight

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withstand internal high pressure. In an scuba or hookah regulator internal external pressure remains equal. Slight
deviations caused by divers inhalation or exhalation and ambient (diving, surfacing) results in air influx from the
tank, or purging and balance is restored. On the other hand a power snorkel operates at a higher pressure than the
ambient, a potential hazard to a thin diaphragm.

HOW POWER SNORKEL WORKS

The first picture (top left) shows the operation of the power snorkel during inhalation.
As the divers inhales pressure decreases inside the snorkel keeping the purge valve closed, pressure is equalized by the
supply line. The second picture (top right) shows the subsequent exhalation. As the diver exhales the pressure in the
mouthpiece becomes higher than the ambient, thereby opening the purge valve all spent air and some replenishing air
vents out. The process is then repeated.

The second set of pictures shows a similar type of power snorkel. Instead of the purge valve located in an exposed
setting, this one is protected. Another important departure from the prior example instead of a rubber circle a flexible
hose was used as a valve.
This hose is clamped down by a wire tie near the tee, so the air bubbles shoot away from the diver.

FITTING MOUTHPIECES

Mouth pieces are usually oblong, some old ones were round shaped
but finding them is difficult. Luckily they are made of very flexible
latex rubber, and can easily mold to any shape.

This shows an archaic breathing apparatus

about to be fitted with a modern mouthpiece. Notice how the
pieces seem impossible to mate?

First take a section of hose 3/4 “ and inset it into your breathing
apparatus. This may take some effort on your part, as this type of
clear hose is hard to conform. Having done that proceed to insert
the mouthpiece over the hose. Squeeze the sides of the mouthpiece
and push it in.

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The copper part happens to be 1/2 “ the same size as the power
snorkel, on 3/4 inch parts it fits like a glove. The only step left is to
strap a wire tie so the parts don’t come apart. If you want to spend
a little more money and buy a clamp from a dive shop, or extract
one from old octopus or BCD, and use it in place of a wire tie.

Vietnamese Dive Masks

Vietnamese dive masks are one of the easiest and cheapest diving apparatus one can build. All Vietnamese dive masks
start out as regular dive masks. The air supply has is then fed to it. The example above shows an old mask where a hole
has been punched out. and a 1/4” hose and 3/8” washer has been inserted. Holding the Barb is a bent piece of
aluminum that has been drilled on one side, and a 3/8” nut rethreaded to 1/8” NPT threads. This is connected to your
weight belt using a 1/4” hose.

The bent piece of aluminum keeps the lens clear of condensation, by diverting fresh air to the lens, at the same time
deflecting air away from the face. This minimizes dry eyes, one side effect of using these masks.

This type of breathing apparatus might be useful aboard small boats for underwater repairs. other uses of these masks
include pool lining repair, aquaculture, spear fishing or any other type of diving involving short, and shallow dives.

Fireman’s Mask
Fireman’s masks make great diving masks. With these you can breathe and talk at the same time. They also allow you
the comfort of breathing normally using both passages.

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the comfort of breathing normally using both passages.

The conversion of the fireman’s mask is simple. remove the hose from the mask. Using a circle cutter cut a plastic
plug. Almost any type of plastic will do, but softer material is easier to work with. Next thread a 1/4’ hose barb though
the hole, then insert this in the snout of the mask ( hole left by the removed hose), and secure it with a clamp. The last
step is to secure the air hose to the barb with a clamp.

Almost any type of a mask with a full face shield can be converted to diving use. Some industrial type respirators will
have two filters on both sides of the mask, use two plugs and clamps, and choose which side you’d prefer the hose
installed. If a mask doesn’t have a purge valve one can be built out of a Sevylor inflatable valve repair kit. To do this
extract the valve cap, so as to allow air to pass through, insert it in the hole left by one of the filters and clamp it.

This item was a free flowing mask used by the US Navy. It was a full face mask allowing
the diver to breathe normally. The mask featured a purge valve, similar to the Fireman’s
conversion mask.

PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER

A shallow water diving system dispenses with the compressed air tank by cooling the compressed air over a long
hose, and purging out any condensation at the harness. By removing the regulator from the system, high volume low
pressure compressors can be used. By operating at lower pressures almost any hose can be used, and anyone can build
a working hookah like rig.
First item on the list is the compressor #2, your filters #1 should
comply with Federal regulations, you don’t have to follow my
example. Next item is a check valve #3, then the hose #4, which
connects to the harness #5 and belt #6. Attached to your harness is a
small hose leading to a power snorkel #7, or helmet, mask etc. You’ll
also need one pressure gauge, to alert the monitor of any leaks or
malfunctions.

The item labeled #8 is your emergency air which will discuss in detail
next.

EMERGENCY AIR SUPPLY

Emergency air comes in two types, manual pump and compressed air cylinder. The manual pump needs to put out
enough volume to supply the diver. Suitable pumps include certain inflatable boat pumps. If you purchase a leaky air
pump then install a check valve, so as to stop compressed air from reaching the pump. The same can be accomplished
with a manual valve. The other type of emergency air is a bottle of compressed air. This can be a scuba tank, though it
is a little bulky, a pony bottle is more desirable. Some shallow water divers even use tanks used by the beverage
industry for this purpose.

The example above shows a manual system with a pony bottle. If the compressor fails the monitor open the valve of
the pony bottle and releases a comfortable amount of air depending on the amount of divers, a flow meter is helpful to
determine the amount but now necessary. For systems where surface monitors are impractical an automatic release is
needed.

Automatic systems are a bit more complicated, involving tying in a small compressed air tank with an adjustable
regulator set to a slightly lower head pressure than the compressor is generating, if the line pressure drops the valve
opens automatically releasing air into the system.

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An inexpensive system such as described can be built using a regulator from a propane grill. Gas regulators are those
UFO shaped metal objects at the end of the hose. They keep the same pressure flowing no matter how much pressure is
in the tank, if the pressure in the hose drops the regulator releases more gas. This is all we need to accomplish with our
automatic life saving device. Only problem is the wide range of pressures involved in different systems. Preferably if
your rig puts out on average 50 PSI
you’ll want the regulator to release air when pressure drops at 40 PSI. Typical gas regulators operate between 5-10 PSI,
adjustments are necessary to bring this up to our needs.

The type to buy is one that is bolted together so it can be adjusted. If you are not acquainted with these please take it to
someone who is competent. Typically gas regulators operate almost like a scuba regulator, to adjust them is a matter of
trial and error, you’ll need a pressure gauge, to determine the right setting. With any luck you might not even have to
tinker with it much.

To operate a rig with an automatic emergency air system, first start the compressor and then open the air valve. The
pressure in the line is higher than the set pressure of the regulator, no air is released from the tank. To shut off the
system turn the tank valve off first otherwise the regulator will sense a drop in pressure and release air.

I have bought two propane regulators, real beauties on eBay for $8 plus $4 S&H. they were brand new real gems. The
seller was selling a lot of six. You’re not going to find anything like that at any discount retailer who have the nerve to
charge $15 for cheap mass produced, metal stamped regulators.

A small tank will do for one diver, there are a few suitable, but not intended for scuba diving tanks, however there’s an
obstacle. Filling unconventional tanks can be a problem. Scuba shops will not handle them. They can be filled at home,
this is a complex subject. To recommend a list of tanks and going into details about putting together a compressor is
quite a task. Look for my upcoming ebook on filling your own scuba tanks, doing visual inspections and...

Another concern is over pressurizing these tanks. Most propane regulators operate with the inlet pressure of about 240
PSI. This figure might be different in some countries. When filling your tanks do not surpass violate the
manufacturer’s specifications. At 240 PSI a small tank will allow one diver to surface from a shallow dive without
running out of air. Some builders even go as low as having a tank with only 100 PSI, which is within most mass
produced oiless compressors range, and can be filled at home without having to build high pressure compressors, to
refill emergency air tanks.

SECTION 4 SNUBA

Snuba is a worldwide patented shallow water dive system that bridges the gap between snorkeling and scuba diving.
Since the introduction of Snuba in 1988, over 3.5 million people around the world have participated in a Snuba diving
adventure. A leading market research firm has estimated that the worldwide snorkeling market approaches 40 times
that of the scuba market. To tap this extremely large customer base, Snuba has incorporated four key elements in its
proven approach:

* Maximum possible safety

* Widest possible customer appeal
* Greatest profitability
* Ease of training and application to the snorkeling market

Typical training (it’s more of an orientation) and dive takes less than an hour, and costs $40! One of the last great
bargains on Earth.

The Equipment

The Snuba dive system has 2 major components: The flotation system and the air supply system.

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The flotation system consists of a custom inflatable raft with a recessed compartment in the raft keel, which houses a
compressed air cylinder. The cylinder compartment is designed to allow easy operator access and rapid cylinder
changes. The air cylinder location adds mass below the water line, providing added stability. The raft is inflated using
a custom air inflator nozzle which is connected to the air cylinder. At the bow, the raft flies either the U.S. or
international diver-down flag. The raft and diver-down flag clearly indicates the position of the raft and Snuba
participants to anyone on the surface. This visibility is particularly useful to surface-support staff and is a significant
safety feature in areas where boats or jet skis may be operating.

The air supply system employs a standard scuba compressed air cylinder. The Sherwood "Brut" air regulation
equipment is coupled to high quality, positively buoyant air lines, which limit the dive depth to a maximum of 20 feet
(6+ meters). The participants are trained to use the air lines for hand-over-hand controlled ascents to the surface. The
diver wears a lightweight, quick-release harness to dissipate the forces associated with towing the raft. The tow point is
located positioned between the divers shoulder blades. The design of the harness also prevents accidental removal of
the regulator from the diver's mouth. Each Snuba system is designed to accommodate up to three divers.

Raft Air delivery system A guide dragging two rafts ashore

Unfortunately the equipment isn’t sold to the public. Snuba type setup can be built using all the equipment discussed
earlier. There’s still those annoying scuba tanks you have to deal with, but everything else fits in with shallow water
diving. Some shallow water divers use rigs like these to test their equipment in the winter time at local YMCA’s indoor
swimming pools. These offer a safe alternative to hookah compressors, where their use pose a safety and health threat,
such as in confined spaces, including, under piers, grottoes, quarries...

Another advantage of snuba is that is relatively safe and easy requiring no certification. Making this type of sport
available to those not PADI certified. This does not mean you should dive without training. Remember compressed air
can be dangerous even at shallow depths. Snuba training icluding one dive is only $40, well worth every penny.

FINAL THOUGHTS
Dear friend, you have been presented with a treasure trove of information. Please use it responsibly. Though this is
titled final thoughts, it is by no means the final word. There are new ideas brewing.

According to the title of the auction this was a book on helmets. The helmet section however is very slim, other
sections take up most of the book. I’m not a great fan of helmet diving, but most diver have a nostalgic fascination with
them. I have some new approaches to helmet design, they were not incorporated into this book because this is not a
book about theories, and unproven designs have no place in practical diving.

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 file:///D:/My%20Documents/hookah/divinghelmet2004/buildhookah.htm

A year ago I wanted to write this but several setbacks kept me from finishing the project. Now that I have taken the
first step to accomplishing my goal. Future developments include, a check valve for the harness discharge. A new
helmet design.
Possible use of scuba tanks for helmet divers. Fireman mask’s intercom. Emergency air systems.

I’m also working on my next project refilling your own scuba tanks, doing your own visual testing, getting tanks hydro
tested without the steep fee...

I hope you liked the book and you took the time to leave feedback. Hopefully you’ll put this knowledge to good use.

12 of 12 10/1/2007 7:27 AM