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Ciba Specialty Chemicals

Value beyond chemistry

Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends


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Ciba TECTILON — Ciba ERIONYL® A — Ciba® LANASET® — Ciba® POLAR® dyes

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Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends

Content

CH 1 : Description 1
Characteristics and benefits of the Ciba concept for polyamide/elastane 1
General 2
Outlets 2
Polyamide fibers 2
Elastane fibers 3
General precautions (storage) 3
Processing routes 4
Relaxation 4
Heat setting 4
Processing of circular knits 4

Pretreatment 4
Scouring/relaxation 4
Bleaching/fluorescent whitening 5

Dyeing machines 5
Dye selection 6
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Ciba TECTILON acid dyes 7
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Ciba ERIONYL A acid dyes 8
Ciba® LANASET® acid/metal complex dyes 9
Recommendations for combination shades 10
Dyeing 12
Parameters influencing dyeing 12
Dissolving the dyes 12
Dyeing chemicals 13

Dyeing procedures 14
Ciba® TECTILON®, Ciba® ERIONYL® A and Ciba® POLAR® acid dyes 14
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Ciba LANASET acid/metal complex dyes 15
Modified dyeing method for good leveling 16

Improving wet fastness properties 17


Aftertreatment in a fresh bath 17
Double aftertreatment for very high requirements 18

Finishing 19
Shading 19
Partial and radical stripping of faulty dyeings 19

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Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends

Microfibers 20
Continuous dyeing of narrow fabrics 21
General 21
Steaming 22
Washing off and aftertreatment 22

Textile auxiliaries 23
Ciba® ALBEGAL® SET 23
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Ciba AVIVAN SO NEW 23
CIBAFAST® AO 23
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CIBAFIX CL 23
CIBAFIX® ECO 23
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CIBAFIX PAS 23
CIBAFLOW® CIR 23
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CIBAFLOW JET 23
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CIBAFLUID C 23
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CIBAFLUID U 23
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Ciba CLARITE PS 24
Ciba® FUMEXOL® DF 24
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Ciba HYDROPHOBOL XAN 24
Ciba® IRGAPADOL® PN NEW 24
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Ciba INVADINE DA 24
Ciba® INVADINE® LUN 24
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Ciba INVADINE PBN 24
Ciba® INVATEX® CS 24
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Ciba MEGASOFT JET-LF 25
Ciba® OLEOPHOBOL® S 25
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Ciba OLEOPHOBOL 7713 25
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Ciba TINEGAL W 25
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Ciba UNIVADINE DP 25
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Ciba UNIVADINE MC NEW 25
Ciba® UNIVADINE® PA NEW 25
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Ciba UNIVADINE NT NEW 25
Ciba® ULTRAVON® EL 25
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Ciba ULTRATEX UM NEW 25
Ciba® UVITEX® BHT liq. 115% 26
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Ciba UVITEX CF liq. 200% 26
Ciba® UVITEX® NFW liq. 26
Ciba® UVITEX® PLF liq. 26
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Ciba ZEROSTAT AT NEW 26

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Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends

CH 2 : Dyes 28
Ciba® TECTILON® acid dyes 28
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Ciba ERIONYL A acid dyes 32
Ciba® LANASET® acid/metal complex dyes 39
Ciba® POLAR® acid dyes 46
Notes on the pattern section 50
Standard dyeings 50
Fastness properties 50
Artificial light/Philips TL 84 51
Dischargeability 51
Build up 51
Migration 52
Barriness 52

CH 3 : Auxiliaries 53
Ciba® ALBEGAL® SET leveling agent 53
CIBAFAST® AO anti oxidant for polyamide 54
®
CIBAFIX CL chlorine fastness improver 55
CIBAFIX® PAS fixative for polyamide 56
CIBAFIX® ECO fixative for cellulose 57
CIBAFLOW® CIR penetration accelerant 58
CIBAFLOW® JET penetration accelerant 59
CIBAFLUID® C lubricant 60
Ciba® UNIVADINE® MC NEW leveling agent for polyamide 61
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Ciba UNIVADINE PA NEW leveling agent for acid dyes / Ciba UNIVADINE NT
NEW leveling agent for acid dyes 62

CH 4 : Miscellaneous 63

IV
Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends

CH 1 : Description
Characteristics and benefits of the Ciba concept for polyamide/elastane

Properties Customer benefits


Broad dye selection ● brilliant shades with high wet and light fastness
● brilliant and restrained combination shades at all
depths
● flexibility for meeting changing market needs and
fashion trends

3 compact ranges with similar dyeing ● targeted dye selection for all requirements
behavior ● excellent compatibility
Supported by selected brilliant acid dyes ● easy dye selection

High fastness properties fulfilling various ● high light fastness for pale shades (TECTILON)
requirements ● high wet fastness for deep shades (LANASET)
● tailor-made products for all requirements
● suitable for Oeko-Tex Standard 100

Simple dyeing procedures ● cost effective day-to-day production


● safe and robust processes

High exhaustion ● good laboratory-to-bulk transfer


● excellent reproducibility
● minimal effluent pollution

Controlled elastane staining for all ● dye selection for tone-in-tone staining
requirements ● selected dyes give good reservation of elastane

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Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends

General
This pattern card provides recommendations on dyeing polyamide/elastane blends. All dyes used for
polyamide stain elastane to a greater or lesser extent, therefore the wet fastness level on this blend is usually
lower than on pure polyamide.

The dyes recommended for polyamide /elastane in this pattern card are:
● TECTILON dyes (acid dyes)
● ERIONYL A dyes (acid dyes)
● LANASET dyes (modified 1:2 metal complex and reactive dyes)
● POLAR dyes (acid dyes)

The ranges complement each other in their dyeing properties, and enable the different requirements in the
various outlets for polyamide/elastane material to be met.

The pattern card contains useful information on pretreatment, bleaching/fluorescent whitening, dye selection,
compatibility, dyeing procedures and textile auxiliaries. Dyeing parameters are also detailed.

All dyes are illustrated as self shades on a representative swimwear fabric made from 40 denier extra dull PA
6 yarn blended with 20% elastane. All fastness data and details of application properties in this pattern card
were tested on this material.

Outlets
Textured and non-textured filament and staple fiber yarns are blended with elastane fibers to make a variety
of knitted and woven elastic apparel e.g.:
● sports and swimwear
● underwear and foundation garments
● pantyhose and therapeutic elastic stockings
● elastic ribbons and tapes
● tulle and lace

Polyamide fibers
Polyamide belongs to the polycondensate group of fibers, the most important of these being PA 6 (perlon type)
and PA 66 (nylon type), which differ somewhat in their physical and dyeing properties.

The perlon type is slightly less temperature-resistant, but easier to dye. Somewhat better fastness properties
can be expected with the nylon types.

The following fiber properties and/or pretreatment processes are among the parameters that can influence
the result.

Fiber surface/cross section (round, trilobal, etc.)


The more highly structured and the larger the surface, the lower the color strength and thus the lower the
light fastness.

Fineness (dtex)
The finer the fibers or fibrils, the lower the color strength and the wet fastness properties.

Delustring
The higher the degree of delustring, the lower the color strength and thus the lower the light fastness.

Texturing
Color strength is lower on textured than on smooth yarns.

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Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends

Elastane fibers
Elastane fibers (EL) consist of at least 85% polyurethane, built up of linear macromolecules arranged in
segments. The macromolecules contain alternating hard and soft segments. The hard segments (short
crystalline zones) impart stability to the fiber, the soft segments, which are long, unstructured and flexible,
give the polymer its rubber-like stretchiness. Elastane fibers can be stretched four to seven times their initial
length and spring back to the original length when the tension is released.

Elastane fibers are composed of fused filaments, fineness range 11–2500 dtex. They are available in dull
white, semi-transparent, bright and clear versions.

Elastane in blends with polyamide is used bare (foundation wear, swimwear, circular knits etc.) or covered by
PA (hosiery, socks, narrow fabrics, woven).

Elastane fibers are often stained by acid and metal complex dyes, but it is difficult to achieve tone-in-tone
effects, especially with the dull types used bare (not covered). Stretching such kind of fabrics can lead to
“grin through” of the elastic component. With the transparent types of elastane these undesirable features
are less marked.

Elastane fibers are resistant to acids, alkalis, oxidizing and reducing agents under the usual pretreatment,
dyeing and finishing conditions. Chlorine bleaching agents cause loss of strength and discoloration. There
are specific types of elastane, which are recommended for swimwear.

General precautions (storage)


During spinning and winding of elastane high amounts of silicone oils and other lubricants are used. During
weaving and knitting further oils and auxiliaries are applied for good running properties. Degradation of these
products during long-term storage can lead to yellowing or, even worse, to a reduction of elasticity. A further
problem could be so called “cold setting”, causing permanent crease marks. Circular knit goods with a high
content of elastane are preferably cut directly on the knitting machine and rolled in open-width form.

These problems are made worse by improper storage conditions in warehouses, which are in most cases not
air-conditioned or where exhaust fumes from trucks and forklifts are present. Sunlight can also aggravate
degradation (outdoor storage). If storage periods of more than 3 months are not avoidable, the fabrics
should be sealed in plastic film which is impervious to both air and light.

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Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends

Processing routes
Most commonly relaxation and heat setting are the first steps prior to scouring. This is the more economical
route but it entails risks:
● during heat setting impurities and degradation products of lubricants can be baked into the fabric, forming
stains which resist even harsh scouring.
● heavy fumes can be created during heat setting, causing environmental problems and staining of the
stenter by condensation products.

If the above problems occur, scouring (i.e. on a soft flow jet) before heat setting is a good remedy. This
scouring step will also induce proper relaxation of the fabric so that further steam relaxation before heat
setting is not necessary.

Setting after dyeing can cause color changes through fiber yellowing or reduction of wet fastness owing to
thermomigration of dyes. Pre-setting conditions are therefore always more severe in order to allow post-
setting under milder conditions.

Relaxation
During weaving or knitting the elastic yarns are under a certain tension, which is then incorporated in the
fabric. Relaxation prior to heat setting is an important part of processing elastic fabrics as it avoids rope
marks and puckering during dyeing and guarantees good dimensional stability. Depending on the processing
route, relaxation is done:
● by steaming (steam table or steam box in front of the stenter before heat-setting)
● in the pre-scouring bath before heat setting.

Heat setting
Open width heat setting controlled by temperature, overfeed and holding to width determines the desired
stretch level as well as the final fabric weight and width.
Circular knitted material shows less tendency to selvage curling during dyeing if properly heat-set prior to
dyeing.

Heat setting is performed at 180 ~ 190°C/356 ~ 374°F for 30 ~ 45 sec. Higher temperatures cause
yellowing of elastane and reduction of elasticity.

Processing of circular knits


Presetting of circular knitted fabrics necessitates slitting of the tubular rope. During dyeing the disadvantage
is curling of the selvages of the open width material, entailing a high risk of unlevelness. This risk can be
reduced by:
● gluing or gumming the selvages with water resistant products
● sewing the fabric into tubular form (labor intensive!)
● using air-flow type dyeing machines

Alternatively, if a special heat-setting machine for tubular material is used, the fabrics can be dyed in the
tubular make-up form without any problems.

Pretreatment
Scouring/relaxation
Silicone oils and lubricants should be thoroughly removed from the fabric before dyeing. They have a
negative influence on leveling of dyes, resulting in reduced fastness and limited build up.

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Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends

Suggested recipe 1.0–3.0 g/L INVADINE DA or ULTRAVON EL


0.5–2.0 g/L INVATEX CS
1.0–3.0 g/L soda ash

liquor ratio 10:1 to 20:1


20–30 min at 60–90°C/140–194°F
hot rinse

A very essential part of the scouring process is the following rinse. The scouring liquor should never be
cooled by rinsing with cold water because the emulsified oils will precipitate again, leaving spots on the textile.
The most efficient routine is to give a good overflow rinse with hot water, then drain the machine and use
cold water only in the final rinse before dyeing.

Bleaching/fluorescent whitening
A high proportion of polyamide goes into white goods. Typical items are locknit charmeuse for underwear,
lace and foundation garments. The usual reduction bleach is generally not sufficient to achieve the required
degree of whiteness. The goods must therefore be fluorescent whitened in addition, preferably using products
that are stable in the reduction bleach bath.

Suggested recipe 1.0–2.0 g/L INVADINE DA or ULTRAVON EL


3.0–5.0 g/L stabilized sodium dithionite, e.g. CLARITE PS
x g/L fluorescent whitening agent

liquor ratio 10:1 to 20:1


45–60 min at 75–80°C/167–176°F
Rinse and add 0.5 ml/L hydrogen peroxide 35% to the final rinsing bath to
remove residual sulfurous compounds.

If required, a fluorescent whitening agent (FWA) can be added to the reduction bleaching bath. The following
FWAs can be used, depending on required shade. Care must be taken to adjust the pH to that most suitable
for the respective product.

FWA Required amount pH Shade


UVITEX NFW liq. 0.5–2.0% 4–6 violet

UVITEX PLF liq. 0.5–2.5% 4–6 slightly reddish

UVITEX CF liq. 200% 0.5–2.0% 6–7 red

UVITEX BHT liq. 115% 0.75–3.0% 7 neutral blue

Dyeing machines
High temperature and mechanical stress on the material during the dyeing process are factors which can
cause a loss of elasticity. The sensitivity of the elastic material to the mechanical dyeing conditions is
dependent on the content of elastane. The most sensitive are fabrics with more than 25% elastane, and to
preserve their elasticity only beam dyeing machines are recommended for them.

Textiles containing more than 10% elastane should be dyed on so-called soft flow jets. The circulation of the
rope of textile is very smooth and soft for two reasons:
● very short distance between liquor surface and winch
● fully flooded material transportation through the dye liquor.

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Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends

Fabrics with less than 10% elastane can be dyed on modern air jets; they have a very low liquor ratio and
their high speed guarantees good levelness. They are more useful than conventional jets for elastane fabrics
because the air-flow used to transport the fabric reduces the liquor content in the textile, the wet fabric is
therefore lighter and less stretched when pulled through the transportation unit.

A further advantage of this machine type is better opening of the rope during dyeing; this means less curling
of the selvages of open width circular knits.

Soft flow jets Air flow jets


● very low stretch due to short distance between ● good opening of the material (air)
liquor and winch

● fully flooded material transportation ● guided transportation in layers through the


machine

● ideal for most sensitive material with a high ● higher tension on the material than in soft
elastane content flow jets

● fairly high liquor ratio ● very short liquor ratio

Dye selection
General
Widely varying substrate forms and end products mean that the different requirements of polyamide dyeing
cannot be covered by a single dye range. Selective use of the different ranges allows the different
requirements to be met.

Ciba® TECTILON® acid dyes


TECTILON dyes are recommended for pale and medium shades, as wet fastness of deep dyeings is too low.
The big advantage of these dyes lies in their outstanding leveling properties.

Ciba® ERIONYL® A acid dyes


ERIONYL A dyes have higher wet fastness than TECTILON dyes and are thus mainly used for medium and
deep shades. Deep dyeings may require aftertreatment to achieve the required wet fastness standard.

Ciba® LANASET® acid/metal complex dyes


LANASET dyes are used in particular for medium to very deep shades. They generally do not require
aftertreatment to achieve good wet fastness.

Ciba® POLAR® acid dyes


POLAR dyes are brilliant highly fast acid dyes and complement the PA concept in the very brilliant shade areas.

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Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends

Ciba® TECTILON® acid dyes


Main characteristics
Compact range for bright and dull shades at pale to medium depths.
Low-molecular, monosulfonated acid dyes with very good migration and leveling properties.

Properties
● High light fastness, including in pale shades
● Outstanding migration and excellent leveling properties
● Very good coverage of physical affinity differences
● Ideal for pantyhose shades and typical pale underwear shades
● Fully compatible (trichromatic systems)
● Metal-free
● Simple dyeing procedure

Property profile

Wet fastness properties: SD 1/1, staining of PA, assessment against gray scale
Other properties: 1 = lowest, 5 = highest rating

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Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends

Ciba® ERIONYL® A acid dyes


Main characteristics
A compatible range for a broad shade spectrum, including navy and black, and additional dyes for brilliant
fashion shades.

Monosulfonated and disulfonated acid dyes with medium to good migration and leveling properties.

Properties
● Good build up to deep shades on different types of polyamide
● Medium to very good light fastness properties
● Good wet fastness properties to medium shades; deep shades require aftertreatment
● Good coverage of physical barriness with the addition of a leveling agent
● Compatible dyes for a wide range of shades; on their own for brilliant fashion shades. Selected POLAR
dyes supplement this shade area.
● Medium to good migration

Property profile

Wet fastness properties: SD 1/1, staining of PA, assessment against gray scale
Other properties: 1 = lowest, 5 = highest rating

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Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends

Ciba® LANASET® acid/metal complex dyes


Main characteristics
Broad, well-balanced shade range; particularly suitable for deep shades.
Modified 1:2 metal complex and reactive dyes with medium migration and leveling properties.

Properties
● Very good build up on different types of polyamide (microfibers)
● High light fastness at all shade depths
● Very high wet fastness properties, including in deep shades
● Medium migration, moderate coverage of physical affinity differences in the fiber.
A new leveling agent and a modified dyeing procedure can help to overcome these limitations
● Good compatibility if recommendations are followed

Property profile

Wet fastness properties: SD 1/1, staining of PA, assessment against gray scale
Other properties: 1 = lowest, 5 = highest rating

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Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends

Recommendations for combination shades


TECTILON, ERIONYL and LANASET dyes have their specific properties and applications. Mixing products from
the different ranges is not recommended.

Ciba® TECTILON® acid dyes


All products within the range can be mixed with one another as required.

Trichromatic dyes: TECTILON Yellow 3R 200%


TECTILON Red 2B 200%
TECTILON Blue 4R-01 200%

Supplementary dyes: TECTILON Yellow 2G 200%


(for green shades and to correct TECTILON Blue 6G 200%
shade change in artificial light)

Ciba® ERIONYL® A acid dyes


This range contains trichromatic dyes for a wide shade spectrum and supplementary dyes for brilliant fashion
shades.

Trichromatic dyes: ERIONYL Yellow A-R


ERIONYL Red A-2BF
ERIONYL Bordeaux A-5B
ERIONYL Blue A-R

Ciba® LANASET® acid/metal complex dyes


When mixing LANASET dyes, certain rules should be observed. It is advisable to use the dye closest in color
to that required and to shade as appropriate. The following LANASET dyes are highly suitable for mixing and
shading, allowing a wide shade range to be covered:

LANASET Yellow 2R
LANASET Red G
LANASET Gray G

Ciba® POLAR® acid dyes


These dyes are used for self shades whenever high brilliancy is required.

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Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends

Table 1 : Recommendations for combination shades

Shade area Yellow Orange Scarlet/ Bor- Violet Blue Blue- Green/ Brown/ Navy Black
red deaux green/ olive beige/
tur- gray
quoise
TECTILON
Yellow 2G    
Yellow 3R ∆     
Red 2B ∆      
Blue 4R-01 ∆   
Blue 6G    

ERIONYL A
Yellow A-3G   
Yellow A-R ∆      
Red A-3G  
Red A-2BF ∆      
Red A-3B   
Bord. A-5B ∆    
Violet A-B      
Blue A-R ∆     
Blue A-4G      
Turquoise A-G 
Green A-BG 
Navy A-R   
Black M-R 
Black M-BN 

LANASET
Yellow 4GN     
Yellow 2R    
Orange RN    
Brown G-01 
Brown B 
Red G    
Red 2B    
Bordeaux B  
Violet B      
Blue 2R   
Blue 5G     
Green B  
Gray G 
Navy R  
Black B 

 = basis  = shading component ∆ = trichromatic dye

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Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends

Dyeing
Parameters influencing dyeing

Dyeing temperature
Elastane fibers are sensitive to high temperatures. To preserve their elasticity dyeing temperatures above the
boil are not recommended.

Dyeing pH
The optimum pH varies with type of dye, shade depth and type of fiber. It is advisable to adjust the pH with
a buffer.

pH 4.5 5 5.5 6 6.5 7 8


Sodium acetate or
g/L 0.5 1 2 2 2–3 — —
ammonium acetate
Acetic acid 80% ml/L 0.5 0.4 0.3 — — — —

Monosodium phosphate g/L — — — 2 1.5 0.5 —

Disodium phosphate g/L — — — 0.5 1 1.5 2

The pH depends closely on the process water, and the above figures should thus be regarded as guidelines. A
rise in pH is to be expected on heating permutit water.

Migration
The movement of the dye in or on the substrate from points of higher to points of lower concentration is
known as migration. Migration depends primarily on the constitution of the dye, but is also affected to a
varying degree by the type of fiber and treatment conditions (pH, auxiliaries, temperature, time). Migration
is an indication of the leveling power of a dye.

Barriness
Production-related physical and chemical differences in the fiber material and also stretching differences can
result in barriness. Barriness can be covered to varying degrees by selecting suitable dyes and using
appropriate dyeing auxiliaries and procedures.

Build up
Build up refers to the maximum shade depth achieved with a specific dye. It is primarily determined by the
dye’s chemical constitution. Fiber properties, especially the saturation limit, also play a role.

Blocking
Mutual displacement of individual acid dyes from the fiber during dyeing is known as blocking. This effect
depends mainly on dye constitution, but also on dye concentration, fiber saturation, auxiliaries, pH and
temperature. Thus disulfo dyes on polyamide are blocked to a varying degree by monosulfo dyes. Dye
selection plays an important role in preventing blocking (see『Recommendations for combination
shades』page 10, 『Table 1 : Recommendations for combination shades』page 11).

Dissolving the dyes


● Paste the dye cold with soft water
● Add hot water (60–90°C/140–194°F) and boil up briefly with live steam if necessary
● Stir thoroughly (with rapid stirrer if necessary)

Auxiliaries and chemicals should not be added during dissolving. The dye solution should always be added to
the dyebath through a strainer or sieve. For further details on solubility of the individual dyes, please see the
fastness tables in the pattern section. The temperature of dye solutions containing LANASET Red 2B should
not exceed 60°C/140°F.

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Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends

Dyeing chemicals
Penetration accelerants
These products are added to the dyebath to de-aerate and rapidly wet out the goods. They also have a foam-
suppressing effect. The penetration accelerants recommended here, CIBAFLOW CIR and CIBAFLOW JET,
have specific applications. CIBAFLOW CIR achieves a balance between wetting out, de-aerating and
defoaming. It is mainly used in circulating liquor dyeing (beam dyeing). CIBAFLOW JET has a durable
antifoam effect and is used in jet dyeing.

Leveling agents for acid dyes


These retard exhaustion of the dyes, promote migration and thus improve levelness. UNIVADINE PA NEW
and UNIVADINE NT NEW have affinity for the fiber and are used in dyeing with TECTILON, ERIONYL and
POLAR dyes. UNIVADINE PA NEW fulfils highest standards of levelness with balanced migration, covering
of barriness, and retarding effect.

Leveling agents for LANASET dyes


ALBEGAL SET, which has affinity for the dye and the fiber, is used with LANASET dyes. UNIVADINE MC
NEW is especially suitable for promoting coverage of barriness caused by physical differences in the fiber
structure (crystallinity, cross section).
The products are suitable for use in dyeing polyamide fibers in all forms at the boil and under HT conditions.

Crease prevention
CIBAFLUID U and CIBAFLUID C are used for crease prevention in piece dyeing. They prevent cracks,
creases and abrasion marks in winches and jets without impairing the quality of the dyeing. These products
also enhance the running properties of elastic fabrics, resulting in less tension during dyeing and therefore
better preservation of the elasticity.

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Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends

Dyeing procedures
Ciba® TECTILON®, Ciba® ERIONYL® A and Ciba® POLAR® acid dyes
Winch/overflow/jet
Beam/circulating liquor dyeing machine

A 0.3–0.5 g/L CIBAFLOW CIR or CIBAFLOW JET


1–2 g/L CIBAFLUID U or CIBAFLUID C
1.5–3 % UNIVADINE PA NEW or UNIVADINE NT NEW
0.5–2 g/L ammonium acetate or sodium acetate
pH 4.5–7 with acetic acid

B x % TECTILON or ERIONYL A dye

ERIONYL Black M-R:


2–4% acetic acid 80%

ERIONYL Black M-BN:


2% acetic acid 80% and 0.5–1.0 g/L UNIVADINE DP

Notes
TECTILON dyes are generally applied at pH 4.5–5.5, Ciba® ERIONYL® A dyes at slightly higher pH (5–6). For
Ciba® ERIONYL® Turquoise A-G see『ERIONYL Turquoise A-G』page 34. A pH at around the top limit is
advisable for pale dyeings. Wet fastness properties can be improved by aftertreatment (see『Improving
wet fastness properties』page 17).

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Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends

Ciba® LANASET® acid/metal complex dyes

Winch/overflow/jet
Beam/circulating liquor dyeing machine

* Same with『Ciba® TECTILON®, Ciba® ERIONYL® A and Ciba® POLAR® acid dyes』

A 0.3–0.5 g/L CIBAFLOW CIR or CIBAFLOW JET


1–2 g/L CIBAFLUID U or CIBAFLUID C
1–2 % ALBEGAL SET or UNIVADINE MC NEW
1–2 g/L ammonium acetate or sodium acetate
pH 4.5–7 with acetic acid

B x % LANASET dye

LANASET Black B:
1.5-3% acetic acid 80%, pH 4-4.5

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Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends

Modified dyeing method for good leveling

Winch/overflow/jet
Beam/circulating liquor dyeing machine

A 0.3–0.5 g/L CIBAFLOW CIR or CIBAFLOW JET


1–2 g/L CIBAFLUID U or CIBAFLUID C
1–2 % ALBEGAL SET or UNIVADINE MC NEW (for LANASET dyes)
1–3 % UNIVADINE PA NEW or UNIVADINE NT NEW (for acid dyes)
2 g/L disodium phosphate (Na2HPO4)
pH 8–8.5

B x % dyes

only for medium shades to ensure full exhaustion:


(C) y % diluted acetic acid or acid donor

Notes
Very high requirements for wash fastness at higher temperatures (60°C/140°F) force the dyer to switch to
high fastness dyes for shade areas where acid leveling dyes are normally used. High fastness dyes tend to be
unlevel and to accentuate physical affinity differences in polyamide fabrics, resulting in barriness. The reason
for this is the very fast first strike of such dyes if applied under slightly acid conditions. Their migration
properties are limited; this means that during heating and boiling there is not much chance to correct initial
unlevelness.

Experience has shown that dyeing at an alkaline pH is a very practical method of slowing down the exhaustion
rate and of greatly improving levelness. Typical pale underwear shades (skin shades) are dyed at pH 8 to 8.5.
This ensures outstanding slow tone-in-tone build up during heating, and full exhaustion at the boil, resulting
in excellent reproducibility.

Ciba Specialty Chemicals 16/63


Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends

Improving wet fastness properties


Aftertreatment with CIBAFIX PAS can improve wet fastness properties of the dyes. This is best performed in
a fresh bath.

Aftertreatment can be performed in the exhausted dyebath, but this procedure is not really recommended as
the pH and the presence of nonionic leveling and wetting agents and detergents can severely impair its
efficacy.

Aftertreatment in a fresh bath

A 2–3 % CIBAFIX PAS

B pH 4.5 with acetic acid

Dissolving/diluting CIBAFIX PAS


CIBAFIX PAS can be diluted with cold or warm water in all proportions. The product should not be mixed with
concentrated acetic acid, as this can result in precipitation.

Ciba Specialty Chemicals 17/63


Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends

Double aftertreatment for very high requirements

A 2–3 % CIBAFIX PAS


B pH 4.5 with acetic acid
C 3.0 % CIBAFIX ECO

Notes
With very deep shades as well as with black and navy (dyed with premetallized dyes) on polyamide / elastane
blends, a further aftertreatment enhances fastness still more. After anionic fixation with CIBAFIX PAS the
cationic fixing agent CIBAFIX ECO is applied.

Thorough rinsing after application of CIBAFIX PAS is essential; residues in the bath will cause precipitation
with cationic fixing agents.

As a time-saving alternative, CIBAFIX ECO can also be applied together with a softener in a final pad
treatment before drying on the stenter.

Ciba Specialty Chemicals 18/63


Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends

Finishing
Softening by exhaust method
1–4 g/L MEGASOFT JET-LF
x % acetic acid

pH 5–5.5
20 min at 30–40°C/86–104°F, drain without further rinsing

Softening (and antistatic finish) by padding


10–15 g/L ULTRATEX UM NEW or AVIVAN SO NEW
(5–20 g/L ZEROSTAT AT NEW)

pick up 60–80%, drying

Oil, water and stain repellent finish


5 ml/L INVADINE PBN
1 ml/L acetic acid 80%
40–60 g/L OLEOPHOBOL S or OLEOPHOBOL 7713
0–10 g/L HYDROPHOBOL XAN
pick up 60–80%, rapid curing at 110–180°C/230–356°F (in stages) for 30–40 sec.

Shading
If shading is required, the dyebath generally has to be cooled to 60–70°C/140–158°F before the dyes are
added. TECTILON dyes can also be added at temperatures close to the boil with the steam switched off.

Partial and radical stripping of faulty dyeings


Partial stripping
If the goods cannot be re-dyed, dyeings that have turned out too deep or slightly unlevel can be partially
stripped or leveled in a fresh bath. The aftertreatment products are removed at the same time.

0.5 g/L CIBAFLOW CIR or CIBAFLOW JET


1–3 % TINEGAL W

pH 8–10 with soda ash


30 min at 98°C/208°F

In critical cases, the treatment can be repeated. Before re-dyeing, the pH must be corrected with acetic acid.
The attainable effects are shown in the table in the pattern section.

Ciba Specialty Chemicals 19/63


Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends

Radical stripping
Dyes can be radically or completely stripped by the following method:
Reduction
3 g/L Decrolin (BASF)
2 % formic acid 85%
30 min at 98°C/208°F
rinse warm and cold

Oxidation stripping with sodium chlorite is unsuitable because elastane fibers are not stable to chlorine.

Stripping can impair light fastness and build up of the dyes. The most suitable method must be determined
by conducting preliminary trials.

Microfibers
General
High comfort in wear and easy care make woven and knitted goods of polyamide microfibers popular for
functional leisure and sports wear.

Polyamide microfibers, which are supplied by numerous manufacturers, vary widely in fineness, degree of
delustring, fiber profiles and surface modifications. Brand names include Supplex/Tactel (Du Pont), Meryl
Micro (Rhône-Poulenc, Viscosuisse) and Siks Micro (Snia Fibres).

Microfibers are polyamide filament yarns whose individual filament fineness is less than 1 dtex. Fabrics are
labeled “micro” if at least one system, warp or weft, consists of microfibers.

Fiber Fineness

Coarse > 7 dtex

Medium fine 7–2.4 dtex

Fine 2.4–1 dtex

Micro 1–0.3 dtex

Super fine < 0.3 dtex

Fastness properties
Light and wet fastness properties of polyamide microfibers are often considerably poorer (1/2 ~ 1 rating) than
those of conventional polyamide fibers. Fastness depends closely on the type of fiber.

Dyeing
On account of their extreme fineness, microfibers have several special dyeing characteristics, and these are
discussed below. For other information, please see the general section. Microfiber filament yarns require
higher amounts of dye than conventional filament yarns to achieve a given shade depth.

Fastness properties required of functional clothing are high and not always easy to achieve. TECTILON and
ERIONYL A dyes are suitable for pale and medium shades (procedures described on page 14『Dyeing
procedures』). For good build up and high fastness with medium and deep shades, LANASET dyes are
usually required.

Ciba Specialty Chemicals 20/63


Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends

Build up of LANASET dyes at SD 3/1


(on PA 66, standard filament, dtex approx. 0.8/F)

* referred to 2 × N/L or 2 × B/Dk

Continuous dyeing of narrow fabrics


General
Elastic tapes and ribbons constitute a very important segment in the field of narrow fabrics. They are mainly
made from PA/EL in various blend ratios and patterns.

The majority of these narrow fabrics are dyed by the continuous method, as this increases productivity and
allows orders to be fulfilled at short notice. The pad-steam procedure comprises the following steps:
● padding
● fixation
● washing off
● aftertreatment (if required)
● drying

Fastness requirements depend on the end product. As narrow fabrics are frequently used for underwear,
fastness to perspiration and washing are essential. Fastness to rubbing is important with deep dyeings.

Products from the TECTILON, ERIONYL A, LANASET and POLAR ranges are suitable for dyeing. TECTILON
dyes are recommended for pale shades, ERIONYL A and POLAR for medium and deep shades.

LANASET dyes meet very high wet fastness requirements.

The most important criterion for dye selection is adequate solubility at room temperature. Good build up in
the shortest possible steaming time is a major factor too.

Ciba Specialty Chemicals 21/63


Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends

Pad liquor

x g/L TECTILON, ERIONYL, LANASET or POLAR dyes


3–20 g/L IRGAPADOL PN NEW
1 g/L INVADINE LUN
0.5 g/L FUMEXOL DF
y g/L acid

pH adjustment of the pad liquor

Pale shades (< 0.5%)


0.2–0.5 g/L citric acid pH 6

Medium shades (< 1.5%)


1.0–2.0 g/L citric acid pH 5

Deep shades (> 1.5%)


4.0–5.0 g/L citric acid pH 4

Black
3.0 g/L citric acid
pH 4
3.0 ml/L acetic acid 80%

Steaming
The fixation of the dyes takes place during steaming. Steaming temperature and time are the key factors for
achieving sufficient build-up and fastness, but too high a steaming temperature can affect the handle.

The usual steaming conditions are 3–6 min. with superheated steam at 100–102°C/212–216°F, very deep
shades and black and navy need up to 8 min. at a temperature of 102–106°C/216–223°F.

Washing off and aftertreatment


Deep shades need efficient aftertreatment. Typical procedure:
● acid shock with 3 ml/L formic acid at 80°C/176°F
● hot rinse at 80°C/176°F with 2 g/L ERIOPON OS
● hot rinse at 80°C/176°F
● 30 g/L CIBAFIX PAS, pH 4.5 (acetic acid) at 70°C/158°F
● 30 g/L CIBAFIX PAS, pH 4.5 (acetic acid) at 70°C/158°F
● softening

Ciba Specialty Chemicals 22/63


Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends

Textile auxiliaries

Products Effects Benefits


® ®
Ciba ALBEGAL SET leveling of LANASET — prevents dye agglomeration
dyes — promotes migration and diffusion
amphoteric — promotes on-tone build-up with dye combinations

Ciba® AVIVAN® SO textile softener — gives fabrics a soft, smooth handle with a rich silky
NEW touch
nonionic/cationic — allows production of fabrics with a high whiteness and
minimal shade change
— minimal effect on wet fastness and crocking fastness
— improves tear strength, bursting strength and abrasion
resistance
— reduces risk of needle damage to fabric and hole
formation during garment manufacture and use
®
CIBAFAST AO fiber stabilizer, light — reduces fiber degradation due to light and especially
fastness improver heat
— improves light fastness of dyeings in pale and medium
anionic shades
— suitable for all PA6 and PA66
— very good affinity for the fiber and good liquor stability
— metal-free
®
CIBAFIX CL chlorine fastness — natural product to improve chlorine and wet fastness
improver (100% biodegradable)
— improves fastness properties of fiber and dyeing
anionic — recommended for all kinds of swimwear fabric
— excellent build up and leveling power
— applicable over a wide pH range (pH 3–6)
— high exhaustion rate

CIBAFIX® ECO fixative — for very deep shades to enhance wet fastness
— CIBAFIX ECO is applied on PA/EL after anionic fixation
cationic with CIBAFIX PAS

CIBAFIX® PAS fixative — maximum wet fastness improvement


anionic — good dye bath stability in presence of acid

CIBAFLOW® CIR penetration accelerant — instant penetration of dye liquor into the textile material
— especially recommended in circulating liquor dyeing
anionic machines (beam, package)
— APEO- and solvent-free
®
CIBAFLOW JET penetration, foam- — faultless cloth run in jets, no stoppage, no damage to
inhibiting, de-aerating goods (creases)
— durable antifoam effect
anionic — APEO- and solvent-free

CIBAFLUID® C lubricating, reducing — no formation of permanent creases during dyeing


® friction — ropes open and displace more easily, therefore
CIBAFLUID U
anionic/nonionic improving levelness

Ciba Specialty Chemicals 23/63


Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends

Products Effects Benefits


Ciba® CLARITE® PS stabilized reduction — improves whiteness on polyamide and in combination
bleaching agent with a peroxide bleach gives a higher and more stable
white on wool, cellulosics and silk
anionic — bleach baths containing CLARITE PS are active longer
than those containing a nonstabilized reduction agent
— high complexing power for heavy metals (e.g. iron)
and alkaline earth ions
— high cleaning action with booster effect on surfactants
— high stability in hard water
® ®
Ciba FUMEXOL DF foam controlling and — prevents and eliminates foam during textile processing
de-aerating agent in aqueous media
— strong de-aerating effect and wetting power
nonionic — applicable in different processes, in highly alkaline to
acid liquors and at all temperatures
— stable to electrolytes and compatible with enzymes
— free of APEO, solvents and mineral oils
® ®
Ciba HYDROPHOBOL extender — optimizing the oil and water repellent effects
XAN cationic

Ciba® IRGAPADOL® PN padding agent — quick and even penetration


NEW slightly anionic — good leveling, no frosting effect on structured material

Ciba® INVADINE® DA wetting agent and — low foaming


detergent — for batchwise pretreatment and continuous immersion
processes
anionic/nonionic — good detergency with excellent emulsifying properties
— all-round applicability through high stability to bleaching
chemicals
— APEO-free

Ciba® INVADINE® LUN detergent, wetting and — outstanding wetting and de-aerating properties,
de-aerating agent including in cold liquors
— enhanced rewetting power
weakly anionic — good detergency and dispersing action
— well suited for washing-off greasy, oily impurities and
pigment soil

Ciba® INVADINE® PBN special wetting agent — excellent wetting effect for oil and water repellent
finishes
anionic — avoids build up on rollers, particularly with paraffin
emulsions containing metal salt
— no influence on the water and oil repellent effect
® ®
Ciba INVATEX CS dispersing and — prevents precipitations of metal hydroxides, carbonates
complexing agent and silicates on goods and machinery
— crystallization-inhibiting properties (threshold-effect)
anionic — enhances the effect of simultaneously applied
detergents and dispersants
— high stability to alkali, oxidation and hydrolysis

Ciba Specialty Chemicals 24/63


Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends

Products Effects Benefits


Ciba® MEGASOFT® JET- textile softener — gives fabrics a warm luxurious feel
LF — very high mechanical stability reduces processing
nonionic/cationic problems
— improves tear strength, bursting strength and abrasion
resistance
— reduces risk of needle damage to fabric and hole
formation during garment manufacture and use
— applicable with TEFLON finishes

Ciba® OLEOPHOBOL® S oil, water, stain — excellent and durable protection against rain, stains,
repellency dust and dirt
cationic
® ®
Ciba OLEOPHOBOL oil, water, stain — good, long-lasting water and stain protection
7713 repellency — Laundry Air Dry properties (LAD)
cationic — dust and dirt can easily be shaken or brushed off

Ciba® TINEGAL® W leveling, dye affinity — high leveling promoting properties


— especially helpful for shade weakening and correction
slightly cationic of unlevelness
® ®
Ciba UNIVADINE DP dispersant — prevents filtration of dye dispersions in high density
muffs and packages
anionic — improves rubbing fastness
— promotes leveling
— suitable for acid and alkaline conditions
® ®
Ciba UNIVADINE MC leveling of LANASET — outstanding coverage of barriness
NEW dyes — improvement of migration of 1:2 metal complex dyes
anionic/nonionic
Ciba® UNIVADINE® PA leveling of acid dyes — excellent coverage of barriness
NEW — excellent leveling/migration
anionic — no negative blocking or retarding behavior
® ®
Ciba UNIVADINE NT leveling of acid dyes — good coverage of barriness
NEW anionic — good leveling/migration behavior

Ciba® ULTRAVON® EL detergent and — application in batchwise and underliquor pretreatments


dispersant, wetting — excellent washing and wetting power
agent — dispersing effect with crystallizationinhibiting
(threshold) effect
anionic — good cleaning and degreasing properties
— all-round applicability through high stability to bleaching
chemicals
— low foaming, contains no antifoam

Ciba® ULTRATEX® UM textile softener — gives fabrics a very specific soft, silicone-like and bulky
NEW handle
nonionic/cationic — improves tear strength, bursting strength and abrasion
resistance
— reduces risk of needle damage to fabric and hole
formation during garment manufacture and use
— increases fabric resilience

Ciba Specialty Chemicals 25/63


Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends

Products Effects Benefits


Ciba® UVITEX® BHT liq. fluorescent whitening — neutral to blue white shade
115% agent — for cellulose, polyamide, wool and silk
— particularly recommended for exhaust application in
anionic stilbene reduction bleaches
derivative — very good wash fastness

Ciba® UVITEX® CF liq. fluorescent whitening — reddish white shade


200% agent — for cellulose, polyamide, wool and silk
— particularly recommended for exhaust application in
anionic stilbene reduction bleaches
derivative — very good wash fastness

Ciba® UVITEX® NFW liq. fluorescent whitening — violet white shade


agent — for polyamide, wool, silk and cellulose
— suitable for exhaust and pad application
anionic distyryldiphenyl — very good stability to reducing agents and acids
derivative — outstanding fastness properties

Ciba® UVITEX® PLF liq. fluorescent whitening — slightly reddish white shade for polyamide and cellulosic
agent fibers
— especially recommended when high light fastness is
anionic stilbene required
derivative — suitable for exhaust processes, has good leveling
properties
— highly appropriate for whitening of swimwear fabrics

Ciba® ZEROSTAT® AT antistatic agent — reduces fabric processing problems especially in fabric
NEW cutting and sewing
anionic — reduces static cling during display and wearing of
garments

Ciba Specialty Chemicals 26/63


Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends

Edition 2001/2002

Copyright © 2001 Ciba Specialty Chemicals Inc. All rights reserved.

All product names in capital letters are either registered or pending trademarks and property of Ciba Specialty Chemicals.

IMPORTANT: The following supersedes Buyer’s documents. SELLER MAKES NO REPRESENTATION OR WARRANTY,
EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR
PURPOSE. No statements herein are to be construed as inducements to infringe any relevant patent. Under
no circumstances shall Seller be liable for incidental, consequential or indirect damages for alleged negligence,
breach of warranty, strict liability, tort or contract arising in connection with the product(s). Buyer’s sole
remedy and Seller’s sole liability for any claims shall be Buyer’s purchase price. Data and results are based on
controlled or lab work and must be confirmed by Buyer by testing for the intended conditions of use. The
product(s) has (have) not been tested for, and is (are) therefore not recommended for, uses for which
prolonged contact with mucous membranes, abraded skin, or blood is intended; or for uses for which
implantation within the human body is intended.

Please note that products may differ from country to country. If you have any queries, kindly contact your local Ciba
Specialty Chemicals representative. Further information at website: http://www.cibasc.com

Ciba Specialty Chemicals is a member of:

(Ecological and Toxicological Association of Dyes and Organic Pigments Manufacturers)


641001e.doc — Dec-01, Printed in Switzerland.

Ciba Specialty Chemicals 27/63


Ciba® TECTILON® dyes

CH 2 : Dyes

Ciba Specialty Chemicals

Value beyond chemistry

Ciba® TECTILON® acid dyes


Patterns and properties

Ciba Specialty Chemicals 28/63


Ciba® TECTILON® dyes

Ciba® Tectilon® acid dyes

Yellow 2G 200% Lightfast, bright yellow for self shades. In combination with TECTILON Blue 6G for
brilliant green shades. C.I. Acid Yellow 169

Yellow 3R 200% Highly lightfast trichromatic dye for combination with TECTILON Red 2B and TECTILON
Blue 4R-01. C.I. Acid Yellow 246

Red 2B 200% Trichromatic dye for combination with TECTILON Yellow 3R and TECTILON Blue 4R-01.
C.I. Acid Red 361

Blue 4R-01 200% Trichromatic dye for combination with TECTILON Yellow 3R and TECTILON Red 2B.
Shade shift towards red in artificial light. C.I. Acid Blue 27

Blue 6G 200% For combination with TECTILON Yellow 2G for brilliant green shades, and with
TECTILON Yellow 3R for dull green shades. Shade shift towards green in artificial light.
C.I. Acid Blue 258

Yellow 4R 200% New trichromatic dye for combination with TECTILON Red 2B and TECTILON Blue 4R-
01. C.I. Acid Yellow 219

Blue G-01 200%

Blue 3R KWL

Blue GC-G C.I. Acid Blue 344

Tectilon Tectilon
Yellow 2G 200% Blue 4R-01 200%

0.06% 0.8% 0.09% 1.1%

Tectilon Tectilon
Yellow 3R 200% Blue 6G 200%

0.05% 0.6% 0.14% 1.7%

TECTILON
Red 2B 200%

0.055% 0.65%

Ciba Specialty Chemicals 29/63


Ciba® TECTILON® dyes

Xenon lamp SD Solubility g/L Artifi-


Build Mi- Barri-
Tectilon % cial TL 84
up gration ness
EL staining
1/12 1/3 1/1 30°C 60°C 90°C light

Yellow 2G 200% 0 .8 5–6 6 6–7 40 100 100 R Br 4 3–4 3–4 2–3

Yellow 3R 200% 0 .6 6 6–7 7 100 100 100 R Br 4 3 3 1–2

Red 2B 200% 0.65 5–6 6 6–7 100 100 100 Y YBr 4 4 4 2

Blue 4R-01 200% 1 .1 5 5–6 6 80 80 100 R R 4 4–5 4–5 1–2

Blue 6G 200% 1 .7 6 6–7 7 10 10 15 G — 4 3 4–5 2–3

Washing Washing Washing


Water
Tectilon % C06 B2, 50°C C06 C2S, 60°C AATCC 2A, 49°C

Ch PA WO CO Ch PA WO CO Ch PA WO Ch PA CV

Yellow 2G 200% 0 .8 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 3–4 3–4 4 5 4–5 4–5 4 4–5 3 5

4–5 5 4–5 5 4–5 4 4 5 4–5 5 4–5 5 4–5 5

Yellow 3R 200% 0 .6 4 4 4–5 5 3 3 3–4 5 3–4 4 4 5 3 5

4–5 4–5 4–5 5 4 3–4 4 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 5

Red 2B 200% 0.65 4–5 3–4 4 4–5 3 2–3 3 4–5 4 2–3 3 4–5 2–3 4–5

4–5 4 4–5 5 4 3 3–4 5 4–5 4 4 4–5 4–5 5

Blue 4R-01 200% 1 .1 4 2–3 4 4 3 2–3 3 4–5 3–4 2–3 3 4–5 2–3 4–5

4–5 3–4 4–5 4–5 3–4 3 3–4 4–5 4 4 4 4–5 4–5 5

Blue 6G 200% 1 .7 3–4 2–3 4 4–5 2–3 2–3 3 5 3 2–3 2–3 4–5 2–3 5

4–5 3–4 4–5 5 3 3 3–4 5 4 4 3–4 5 4 5

= aftertreated with CIBAFIX® PAS

Chlorinated water
Sea water Perspiration, alkaline Rubbing
Tectilon % mg/L available chlorine

Ch PA CV Ch PA CV 20 50 100 dry wet

Yellow 2G 200% 0 .8 4–5 3–4 4–5 4–5 3–4 4–5 4 2–3 W 1–2 W 5 5

5 4–5 5 5 4–5 5 4–5 3 2W 5 5

Yellow 3R 200% 0 .6 4–5 3–4 4–5 4–5 3–4 4–5 3–4 2W 1W 5 5

4–5 4–5 5 5 4–5 5 4 2–3 W 1–2 W 5 5

Red 2B 200% 0.65 4–5 3 4–5 4–5 3 4–5 4–5 3W 1W 5 5

4–5 4–5 5 5 4–5 5 4–5 3–4 BW 1–2 W 5 5

Blue 4R-01 200% 1 .1 4–5 3 4 4–5 3 4 4 2–3 GW 1–2 GW 5 5

4–5 4–5 5 4–5 4 4–5 4 2–3 GDe 1–2 GDe 5 5

Blue 6G 200% 1 .7 4–5 3 4–5 4–5 3 4–5 4–5 2–3 GW 1–2 GW 5 5

4–5 4–5 5 4–5 4 5 4 2–3 GW 1–2 GW 5 5

= aftertreated with CIBAFIX® PAS

Ciba Specialty Chemicals 30/63


Ciba® TECTILON® dyes

Dry cleaning Dry heat Reservation staining


Discharge- Stripping
Tectilon % perchloreth. 30s/180°C of multifiber strip
ability
Ch Ch PA CO PES PAN partial % reduction oxidation

Yellow 2G 200% 0 .8 4–5 5 5 5 5 5 4 80  


4–5 5 5

Yellow 3R 200% 0 .6 4–5 5 5 4–5 5 5 5 65  


5 5 5

Red 2B 200% 0.65 4–5 5 5 4 5 5 4–5 65 ◨ ◨


4–5 5 5

Blue 4R-01 200% 1 .1 4–5 5 5 4 5 5 2 70 G ◨


4–5 5 5

Blue 6G 200% 1 .7 4–5 5 5 4–5 5 5 2 60 G 


4–5 5 5

= aftertreated with CIBAFIX® PAS

Stripping:  completely stripped ◨ partially stripped  no effect

Ciba Specialty Chemicals 31/63


Ciba® ERIONYL® A dyes

Ciba Specialty Chemicals

Value beyond chemistry

Ciba® ERIONYL® A acid dyes


Patterns and properties

32/63
Ciba® ERIONYL® A dyes

Ciba® ERIONYL® A acid dyes

Yellow A-3G For self shades, and in combination with ERIONYL Blue A-4G and ERIONYL Turquoise A-
G for brilliant green shades with good light fastness. Causes “catalytic fading” with
ERIONYL Blue A-R. C.I. Acid Yellow 262

Yellow A-R Trichromatic dye for combination with ERIONYL Red A-2BF, ERIONYL Bordeaux A-5B
and ERIONYL Blue A-R. Good build up and balanced dyeing behavior. C.I. Acid Orange
67

Red A-3G For self shades and as a basis for deep red shades with adequate light and wet
fastness. C.I. Acid Red 447

Red A-2BF Trichromatic dye for combination with ERIONYL Yellow A-R and ERIONYL Blue A-R.
Neutral red with high light fastness. C.I. Acid Red 127 ?

Red A-3B On its own for bright, bluish red fashion shades. Light fastness in deep shades
adequate. C.I. Acid Red 131

Bordeaux A-5B Trichromatic dye for combination with ERIONYL Yellow A-R and ERIONYL Blue A-R.
For deep and dull fashion shades with high fastness. C.I. Acid Red 299

Violet A-B On its own for highly lightfast violet shades. In combination with ERIONYL Red A-2BF,
(Lanaset Violet B) ERIONYL Red A-3B and ERIONYL Blue A-R for the fashion violet sector. C.I. Acid Violet
109

Blue A-R Trichromatic dye for combination with ERIONYL Yellow A-R, ERIONYL Red A-2BF and
ERIONYL Bordeaux A-5B.

For bright royal blue self shades. Very good levelness, high wet fastness. C.I. Acid
Blue 260

Blue A-4G Greenish blue for green shades in combination with ERIONYL Yellow A-3G and ERIONYL
Green A-BG. To correct shade shift towards green in artificial light.

Turquoise A-G For self shades. Can be shaded with ERIONYL Yellow A-3G for brilliant green shades.
Fairly good build-up on different types of polyamide. To achieve good exhaustion,
dyeing at pH 4.5–5.5 is recommended and the use of ALBEGAL SET instead of
UNIVADINE PA/NT. Barriness largely covered under HT conditions.

Green A-BG Basis for dull green and olive shades with shading dyes ERIONYL Blue A-4G, ERIONYL
Yellow A-3G and ERIONYL Yellow A-R.

Navy A-R Neutral, cost-effective navy blue. Can be shaded with ERIONYL Violet A-B, ERIONYL
(Navy R) Blue A-R and ERIONYL Blue A-4G. Blue component for deep olive shades. C.I. Acid
Blue 113

Black M-R Black with high wet fastness. Shade shift in artificial light towards red can be corrected
with ERIONYL Yellow A-R or ERIONYL Blue A-4G. C.I. Acid Black 172

Black M-BN Deep, neutral black with very good build up on different types of polyamide. High light
fastness, wet fastness slightly lower than that of ERIONYL Black M-R. C.I. Acid Black
63:1

33/63
Ciba® ERIONYL® A dyes

ERIONYL ERIONYL
Yellow A-3G Blue A-R

0.25% 0.75% 1.5% 0.32% 0.95% 1.9%

ERIONYL ERIONYL
Yellow A-R Blue A-4G

0.17% 0.5% 1.0% 0.33% 1.0% 2.0%

ERIONYL ERIONYL
Red A-3G Turquoise A-G

0.17% 0.5% 1.0% 0.13% 0.38% 0.75%

ERIONYL ERIONYL
Red A-2BF Green A-BG

0.23% 0.7% 1.4% 0.32% 0.95% 1.9%

ERIONYL ERIONYL
Red A-3B Navy A-R

0.15% 0.45% 0.9% 0.65% 1.0% 2.0%

ERIONYL ERIONYL
Bordeaux A-5B Black M-R

0.1% 0.3% 0.6% 2.0% 3.0% 4.0%

ERIONYL ERIONYL
Violet A-B Black M-BN

0.25% 0.75% 1.5% 1.9% 2.9% 3.8%

34/63
Ciba® ERIONYL® A dyes

Xenon lamp SD Solubility g/L Artifi-


Build Mi- Barri-
ERIONYL A % cial TL 84
up gration ness
EL staining
1/12 1/3 1/1 30°C 60°C 90°C light

Yellow A-3G 1 .5 5–6 6 6–7 40 40 50 R RBr 5 2 3–4 3

Yellow A-R 1 .0 5 5–6 6–7 20 25 100 R Br 5 2 4 1–2

Red A-3G 1 .0 2–3 3 3–4 30 70 100 Y YBr 4 1 3 2G

Red A-2BF 1 .4 4–5 5 5–6 80 100 100 Y Y 4 2 3–4 1–2

Red A-3B 0 .9 2–3 3 3–4 5 15 70 Y Y 3–4 3 3–4 1–2

Bordeaux A-5B 0 .6 4–5 4–5 5 15 15 80 Y BDe 5 3 3–4 1

Violet A-B 1 .5 5 5 5–6 40 40 70 R Bl 3–4 2 2–3 3

Blue A-R 1 .9 5–6 6 6–7 20 30 80 R R 4 3 3–4 2

Blue A-4G 2 .0 5–6 6 6 30 30 80 G Br 4 2 4 2–3

Turquoise A-G 0.75 1–2 2G 3G 30 30 30 G G 2 1 2–3 1–2

Green A-BG 1 .9 5–6 5–6 5–6 40 45 55 Y Y 4 2 2 2–3 B

N/L N/L N/Dk


Navy A-R — 100 100 100 R R 5 1 1 1–2
1 .0 4–5 5–6
B/Dk B/L B/Dk
Black M-R — 60 60 80 R G 4 — — 2–3 R
4 .0 6–7 7
B/Dk B/L B/Dk
Black M-BN — 30 30 70 R G 5 — — 3
3 .8 7 7–8

35/63
Ciba® ERIONYL® A dyes

Washing Washing Washing


Water
ERIONYL A % C06 B2, 50°C C06 C2S, 60°C AATCC 2A, 49°C

Ch PA WO CO Ch PA WO CO Ch PA WO Ch PA CV

Yellow A-3G 1 .5 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 4 5

5 5 5 5 5 4–5 5 5 5 5 4–5 5 4–5 5

Yellow A-R 1 .0 4 3–4 4–5 4–5 3 2-3 4 4–5 4 3 3–4 4–5 4 4–5

4–5 4–5 5 5 4 3 4–5 4–5 4–5 3–4 4–5 4–5 4–5 5

Red A-3G 1 .0 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 4 4–5 4 4–5 4 4–5 4–5 4 5

5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 5 4 5 5 4–5 5

Red A-2BF 1 .4 4–5 3 4–5 4–5 3–4 2 3 4 4 2–3 3 4–5 3 5

5 4 5 5 4 3 3–4 4–5 4–5 3 4 4–5 4–5 5

Red A-3B 0 .9 4-5 4-5 5 4 4 4 4 4 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 3–4 4–5

5 5 5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 5 5 5 4–5 5

Bordeaux A-5B 0 .6 4 3 4–5 3 4 2 3–4 3 4–5 2–3 4 5 4 5

4-5 4 5 4–5 4–5 2–3 4 3 5 3–4 4–5 5 5 5

Violet A-B 1 .5 4–5 4 5 5 4–5 3 4–5 5 4–5 3–4 4 4–5 4–5 5

5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4 4–5 5 5 4 4–5 5 5 5

Blue A-R 1 .9 4–5 2–3 4 4–5 4 2 2—3 4–5 4 2–3 3 4–5 3 5

5 4–5 5 5 4-5 3 3 5 4–5 4 4 4–5 4 5

Blue A-4G 2 .0 4–5 3–4 4–5 5 4 2–3 2–3 4–5 4 3 3 4–5 2–3 5

5 4–5 5 5 4–5 3 3 5 4–5 4 4 4–5 4 5

Turquoise A-G 0.75 4-5 5 5 4-5 4–5 5 5 4 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 5 5

5 5 5 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 5 4–5 5 5 5 5

Green A-BG 1 .9 4–5 4 4–5 4–5 4–5 2–3 4 4 4–5 3 4 5 4 5

4–5 4–5 5 5 4–5 3 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 4–5 5 4–5 5

Navy A-R 1 .0 4–5 3 5 4 4 2 4–5 3 4–5 2–3 4–5 4–5 4 5

4–5 4–5 5 5 4–5 3 5 4 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 5

Black M-R 4 .0 4–5 3 4–5 4–5 4–5 2 4 4 4–5 4 4–5 4–5 3 5

5 4 5 5 4–5 2–3 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 5

Black M-BN 3 .8 4–5 2 4–5 4–5 4–5 2 4 4–5 4–5 2 4–5 5 4–5 5

4–5 3 5 5 4–5 2–3 4–5 5 4–5 2–3 4 5 5 5

= aftertreated with CIBAFIX® PAS

36/63
Ciba® ERIONYL® A dyes

Chlorinated water
Sea water Perspiration, alkaline Rubbing
ERIONYL A % mg/L available chlorine

Ch PA CV Ch PA CV 20 50 100 dry wet

Yellow A-3G 1 .5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 4 4–5 4–5 4 3–4 5 5

4–5 5 5 5 5 5 4–5 4–5 4 5 5

Yellow A-R 1 .0 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 4–5 4 4 3 5 5

4–5 5 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4–5 3–4 5 5

Red A-3G 1 .0 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 4–5 4 4 4 5 5

4–5 5 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4 4 5 5

Red A-2BF 1 .4 4–5 4 4–5 4–5 3–4 4–5 3–4 3 2 5 5

4–5 5 5 4–5 4–5 5 4 3 2 5 5

Red A-3B 0 .9 4–5 4 4–5 4–5 3–4 4 4 4 4 5 5

4–5 5 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 5

Bordeaux A-5B 0 .6 4–5 4 4–5 4–5 4 4–5 3 1–2 1 5 5

4–5 5 5 4–5 5 5 3 1-2 1 5 5

Violet A-B 1 .5 5 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 3–4 2–3 1–2 5 5

5 5 5 5 5 5 3–4 2–3 2 5 5

Blue A-R 1 .9 4–5 4 4–5 4–5 3–4 4–5 4 3 1–2 5 5

4–5 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 3 2 5 5

Blue A-4G 2 .0 4–5 3–4 4–5 4–5 3 4–5 4 3 2 5 5

4–5 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 3 2 5 5

Turquoise A-G 0.75 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 3–4 2–3 1–2 5 5

4–5 5 5 4–5 5 5 3–4 2–3 1–2 5 5

Green A-BG 1 .9 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 3 2 5 5

5 5 5 5 5 5 4 3 2 5 5

Navy A-R 1 .0 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 3–4 2–3 1–2 5 5

4–5 5 5 5 5 5 3–4 2–3 1–2 4–5 5

Black M-R 4 .0 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 4–5 4–5

4–5 5 5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 4–5 5

Black M-BN 3 .8 4–5 5 5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 5

5 5 5 5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 5

= aftertreated with CIBAFIX® PAS

37/63
Ciba® ERIONYL® A dyes

Dry cleaning Dry heat Reservation staining


Discharge- Stripping
ERIONYL A % perchloreth. 30s/180°C of multifiber strip
ability
Ch Ch PA CO PES PAN partial % reduction oxidation

Yellow A-3G 1 .5 4–5 5 5 5 5 5 4–5 30  


4–5 5 5

Yellow A-R 1 .0 4 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 5 5 50  


4–5 4–5 5

Red A-3G 1 .0 4 4–5 4–5 4 3 4–5 4–5 35  ◨Y


4–5 4–5 4–5

Red A-2BF 1 .4 4 4–5 5 3–4 4–5 5 4–5 60  ◨Y


4 4–5 5

Red A-3B 0 .9 4 5 5 2–3 5 5 4–5 65 Bn 


4–5 4–5 5

Bordeaux A-5B 0 .6 4–5 5 5 4 5 5 5 20  ◨


4–5 4–5 5

Violet A-B 1 .5 4–5 5 5 3–4 3 5 2 15 G 


4–5 4–5 5

Blue A-R 1 .9 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 5 2 30 G 


4–5 4–5 5

Blue A-4G 2 .0 4–5 5 5 2–3 2–3 3 2 35 Bn 


4–5 5 5

Turquoise A-G 0.75 4–5 5 5 2–3 5 5 2 10 ◨G 


4–5 4–5 5

Green A-BG 1 .9 4–5 5 5 3 3 3–4 2 30 Bn ◨


4–5 4–5 5

Navy A-R 1 .0 4 4–5 5 3 5 5 2 30 ◨G ◨Bn


4–5 4–5 5

Black M-R 4 .0 4–5 5 5 3 3–4 3–4 1–2 10 Bn ◨


4–5 5 5

Black M-BN 3 .8 4–5 4–5 5 2–3 3–4 3–4 1 5  ◨Bn


4–5 5 5

= aftertreated with CIBAFIX® PAS

Stripping:  completely stripped ◨ partially stripped  no effect

38/63
Ciba® LANASET® dyes

Ciba Specialty Chemicals

Value beyond chemistry

Ciba® LANASET® acid/metal complex dyes


Patterns and properties

39/63
Ciba® LANASET® dyes

Ciba® LANASET® acid/metal complex dyes

Yellow 4GN Basis for bright yellow shades. In combination with LANASET Blue 5G for brilliant
green shades.

Yellow 2R For shading and combination with LANASET Red G and LANASET Gray G for dull
shades.

Orange RN Basis for brilliant orange shades with very good build up.

Brown G-01 Basis for medium beige and brown shades with good light fastness.

Brown B Basis for cost-effective dark brown shades with ultra high light fastness.

Red G Shading and combination dye for use with LANASET Yellow 2R and LANASET Gray G.

Red 2B For brilliant red self shades with high light and wet fastness.

Bordeaux B Basis for bordeaux shades. Limited suitability for pale shades on account of low light
fastness.

Violet B Highly lightfast violet dye for self shades. Can be shaded with LANASET Red 2B and
(ERIONYL Violet LANASET Blue 2R. C.I. Acid Violet 109

A-B)

Blue 2R Bright blue self dye for royal blue shades. Can be shaded with LANASET Violet B and
(POLAR Blue RLS LANASET Blue 5G. C.I. Acid Blue 225

200%)

Blue 5G Greenish blue. In combination with LANASET Yellow 4GN for brilliant green shades. To
correct shade shift towards green in artificial light. C.I. Acid Blue 239

Green B Basis for dull green and olive shades for combination with LANASET Blue 5G.

Gray G For shading and combination with LANASET Yellow 2R and LANASET Red G.

Navy R Cost-effective navy blue. Can be shaded with LANASET Blue 5G, LANASET Blue 2R and
LANASET Violet B.

Black B Neutral black with good build up. Also suitable for gray shades.

Blue 2RA

Yellow PA 125%

Red PA 200%

Blue PA

Blue PA2R 115%

40/63
Ciba® LANASET® dyes

LANASET LANASET
Yellow 4GN Violet B

0.65% 1.3% 2.6% 0.85% 1.7% 3.4%

LANASET LANASET
Yellow 2R Blue 2R

0.75% 1.5% 3.0% 1.0% 2.0% 4.0%

LANASET LANASET
Orange RN Blue 5G

0.9% 1.8% 3.6% 1.1% 2.2% 4.4%

LANASET LANASET
Brown G-01 Green B

0.7% 1.4% 2.8% 0.9% 1.8% 3.6%

LANASET LANASET
Brown B Gray G

0.6% 1.2% 2.4% 0.5% 1.0% 2.0%

LANASET LANASET
Red G Navy R

0.55% 1.1% 2.2% 1.5% 2.2% 4.4%

LANASET LANASET
Red 2B Black B

0.95% 1.9% 3.8% 2.0% 3.0% 4.0%

LANASET
Bordeaux B

0.48% 0.95% 1.9%

41/63
Ciba® LANASET® dyes

Xenon lamp SD Solubility g/L Artifi-


Build Mi- Barri-
LANASET % cial TL 84
up gration ness
EL staining
1/12 1/3 1/1 30°C 60°C 90°C light

Yellow 4GN 1 .3 5 6 6–7 100 100 100 R Br 4 2 4–5 2

Yellow 2R 1 .5 4–5 5–6 6 100 100 100 R Br 5 2 3 3–4

Orange RN 1 .8 4 5 5–6 65 80 80 Y RBr 4–5 2 3 2

Brown G-01 1 .4 5 5–6 6 70 80 80 Y RBr 5 2 2 2

Brown B 1 .2 5 6 6–7 100 100 100 R Y 5 1 2 2

Red G 1 .1 4–5 5–6 6–7 100 100 100 Y Y 4–5 2 3 2

Red 2B 1 .9 4 5 5–6 15 15 30 Y Y 4–5 2 4 3

Bordeaux B 0.95 3–4 5 5–6 20 40 100 Y Y 5 2 2–3 1–2

Violet B 1 .7 3–4 4–5 5–6 60 60 100 R R 3–4 2 2–3 4

Blue 2R 2 .0 4 5–6 6 100 100 100 R R 3–4 2 4 1

Blue 5G 2 .2 4–5 5–6 6–7 100 100 100 G Gde 5 1–2 3–4 3

Green B 1 .8 4 6 6–7 80 80 80 Y Y 3 2 4–5 2

Gray G 1 .0 4–5 6 6–7 80 80 100 R Y 5 1 2–3 2

N/L N/L N/Dk


Navy R — 100 100 100 R R 4 2 3 2–3
2 .2 5–6 6
B/Dk B/L B/Dk
Black B — 80 80 80 R G 4 — — 3
4 .0 6–7 7

42/63
Ciba® LANASET® dyes

Washing Washing Washing


Water
LANASET % C06 B2, 50°C C06 C2S, 60°C AATCC 2A, 49°C

Ch PA WO CO Ch PA WO CO Ch PA WO Ch PA CV

Yellow 4GN 1 .3 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 4 5

5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 5

Yellow 2R 1 .5 4–5 4–5 5 5 4–5 3 4 4–5 5 4 4 5 4–5 5

4–5 5 5 5 4–5 3–4 4–5 5 5 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 5

Orange RN 1 .8 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 3–4 4 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5

4–5 5 5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 5 5

Brown G-01 1 .4 5 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 3 4 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 5

5 5 5 5 4–5 4 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 5

Brown B 1 .2 4–5 4 5 4–5 4–5 3 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5

5 4–5 5 5 4-5 4 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 5

Red G 1 .1 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 3–4 4 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5

5 5 5 5 4–5 4–5 5 5 4–5 5 4–5 5 5 5

Red 2B 1 .9 4–5 3–4 4–5 4–5 4–5 2 4 4 4–5 3 4 4–5 3–4 5

4–5 4–5 5 5 4–5 3 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 4–5 4–5 4–5 5

Bordeaux B 0.95 4–5 4–5 5 5 4–5 3 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 4–5 5 4–5 5

5 5 5 5 4–5 4 5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 5 5

Violet B 1 .7 5 4 5 5 4–5 3 4 4–5 4–5 3 4 5 4–5 5

5 4–5 5 5 4–5 3–4 4–5 5 5 4 4–5 5 4–5 5

Blue 2R 2 .0 4–5 4 5 5 4–5 3 4 4–5 4–5 3–4 4 4–5 3 5

4–5 4–5 5 5 4–5 3–4 4–5 5 4–5 4 4–5 5 4–5 5

Blue 5G 2 .2 4–5 3–4 4–5 4–5 4–5 2–3 3–4 4 4–5 2–3 3 5 4 5

5 4–5 5 5 4–5 3 4 4–5 4–5 3 4 5 4–5 5

Green B 1 .8 5 4–5 5 4–5 4 3–4 4 4 4–5 4 4 4–5 4 5

5 5 5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 4 4–5 5 5 5

Gray G 1 .0 4–5 4 5 5 4–5 3 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 4–5 4–5 4–5 5

5 5 5 5 4–5 4 5 5 5 4 4–5 5 5 5

Navy R 2 .2 4–5 3–4 4–5 5 4 3 4–5 4–5 5 3–4 4 5 4–5 5

5 5 5 5 4–5 4 5 5 5 4 4–5 5 5 5

Black B 4 .0 4–5 2–3 4–5 4–5 4–5 1–2 4 4 5 2–3 4 5 3–4 5

5 3 4–5 4–5 4–5 2 4 4–5 5 3 4–5 5 4 5

= aftertreated with CIBAFIX® PAS

43/63
Ciba® LANASET® dyes

Chlorinated water
Sea water Perspiration, alkaline Rubbing
LANASET % mg/L available chlorine

Ch PA CV Ch PA CV 20 50 100 dry wet

Yellow 4GN 1 .3 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 3–4 1–2 5 5

5 5 5 5 5 5 4–5 3–4 1–2 5 5

Yellow 2R 1 .5 5 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 3–4 2–3 5 5

5 5 5 5 5 5 4–5 4 2–3 5 5

Orange RN 1 .8 5 4–5 4 4–5 4–5 4 4 3–4 2–3 5 5

5 5 4–5 5 5 5 4–5 4 2–3 5 5

Brown G-01 1 .4 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 2–3 5 5

4–5 5 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4–5 2–3 5 5

Brown B 1 .2 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 3–4 1–2 4–5 5

4–5 5 5 5 5 5 4–5 3–4 2 5 5

Red G 1 .1 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 4 2–3 5 4–5

4–5 5 5 4–5 5 5 4 4 2–3 5 5

Red 2B 1 .9 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 4–5 4–5 3–4 2–3 5 5

4–5 5 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4 2–3 5 5

Bordeaux B 0.95 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 2 5 5

5 5 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4 2 5 5

Violet B 1 .7 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4–5 4 3 1–2 5 5

5 5 5 5 5 5 4 3 2 5 5

Blue 2R 2 .0 4–5 4 4–5 4–5 3–4 4 4 3 1–2 5 5

4–5 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 5 4 3 2 5 5

Blue 5G 2 .2 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 3 2 5 5

4–5 5 5 4–5 5 5 4 3 2 5 5

Green B 1 .8 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 4 4 3 1–2 5 5

4–5 5 5 4–5 5 5 4 2–3 1–2 5 5

Gray G 1 .0 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 3 5 5

4–5 5 5 5 5 5 4–5 4 3 5 5

Navy R 2 .2 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 3 5 5

5 5 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4 3 5 5

Black B 4 .0 5 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 3–4 4–5 4–5

5 5 5 5 5 5 4–5 4 3–4 4–5 4–5

= aftertreated with CIBAFIX® PAS

44/63
Ciba® LANASET® dyes

Dry cleaning Dry heat Reservation staining


Discharge- Stripping
LANASET % perchloreth. 30s/180°C of multifiber strip
ability
Ch Ch PA CO PES PAN partial % reduction oxidation

Yellow 4GN 1 .3 4–5 5 5 4–5 4–5 5 5 20  


4–5 5 5

Yellow 2R 1 .5 4–5 5 5 4 4–5 5 4 35 ◨ ◨


4–5 5 5

Orange RN 1 .8 4–5 4–5 5 3–4 4 4–5 4 25 Bn ◨


4–5 4–5 5

Brown G-01 1 .4 4–5 4–5 5 3–4 4–5 4–5 4 30 V ◨


4–5 4–5 5

Brown B 1 .2 4–5 4–5 5 4 4 4–5 3 30 V ◨


4–5 4–5 5

Red G 1 .1 4–5 4–5 5 3 4 4–5 2–3 25 V ◨


4–5 5 5

Red 2B 1 .9 4–5 5 5 3–4 4 4–5 3–4 30 Bn ◨


4–5 5 5

Bordeaux B 0.95 4–5 5 5 3–4 4 4–5 2 25  ◨


4–5 5 5

Violet B 1 .7 4–5 5 5 3 2–3 4 2 20 G 


4–5 5 5

Blue 2R 2 .0 4–5 5 5 3–4 4–5 4–5 2 20 G 


4–5 4–5 5

Blue 5G 2 .2 4 5 5 3 3 3 2 25 Bn ◨
4–5 5 5

Green B 1 .8 4–5 5 5 3–4 3 4–5 2 35 Bn ◨


4–5 5 5

Gray G 1 .0 4–5 5 5 3–4 3–4 4–5 3–4 20 ◨ ◨


4–5 5 5

Navy R 2 .2 4–5 5 5 3–4 4 4–5 3 30 V ◨


4–5 5 5

Black B 4 .0 5 5 5 2–3 3–4 3–4 1–2 10  ◨


5 5 5

= aftertreated with CIBAFIX® PAS

Stripping:  completely stripped ◨ partially stripped  no effect

45/63
Ciba® POLAR® acid dyes

Ciba Specialty Chemicals

Value beyond chemistry

Ciba® POLAR® acid dyes


Patterns and properties

46/63
Ciba® POLAR® acid dyes

Ciba® POLAR® acid dyes

Orange GSN Very bright orange for self shades with moderate light fastness. Very high wet-
150% fastness properties.

Orange GRLS Highly lightfast bright orange for self shades. Very high wet-fastness properties, but
200% limited leveling.

Red B 125% Very brilliant, neutral red for self shades. Moderate light fastness. High wet-fastness
properties.

Red RLS 200% Highly lightfast brilliant, bluish red for self shades. Very high wet-fastness properties.

Red 10B 140% Brilliant, very bluish red for self shades with moderate light fastness. Very high wet-
fastness properties.

Yellow GN-01
400%

Yellow 5GN 280% C.I. Acid Yellow 110

Yellow 4G 160% C.I. Acid Yellow 79

Orange GRLS C.I. Acid Orange 94


200%

Red 3BN 140%

Red BL

Blue 3RN

Blue G 350%

Blue 6B 350%

Blue RAWL 150%

Blue RLS 200% C.I. Acid Blue 225 (LANASET Blue 2R)

POLAR
POLAR
Orange GSN
Red RLS 200%
150%

0.2% 0.6% 1.2% 0.2% 0.6% 1.2%

POLAR
POLAR
Orange GRLS
Red 10B 140%
200%

0.25% 0.75% 1.5% 0.16% 0.48% 0.95%

POLAR
Red B 125%

0.24% 0.73% 1.45%

47/63
Ciba® POLAR® acid dyes

Xenon lamp SD Solubility g/L Artifi-


Build Mi- Barri-
POLAR % cial TL 84
up gration ness
EL staining
1/12 1/3 1/1 30°C 60°C 90°C light

Orange GSN 150% 1 .2 3 3–4 4 100 100 100 F F 3 1 3–4 2

Orange GRLS 200% 1 .5 4–5 5 6 70 90 100 G F 4 1 2–3 2–3

Red B 125% 1.45 2–3 3 3–4 30 70 80 G G 3 3 3–4 2–3

Red RLS 200% 1 .2 4 4–5 5–6 40 70 80 G GF 4 1 2–3 2

Red 10B 140% 0.95 2–3 3 3–4 20 50 100 G G 4 1 3 2–3

Washing Washing Washing


Water
POLAR % C06 B2, 50°C C06 C2S, 60°C AATCC 2A, 49°C

Ch PA WO CO Ch PA WO CO Ch PA WO Ch PA CV

Orange GSN 150% 1 .2 4–5 5 5 5 4 4–5 5 5 4–5 5 5 5 4–5 4–5

4–5 5 5 5 4–5 5 5 5 4–5 5 5 5 5 5

Orange GRLS 200% 1 .5 4–5 4–5 5 5 4–5 3 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4–5 5

4–5 5 5 5 4–5 4 5 5 5 5 5 4–5 5 5

Red B 125% 1.45 4 4–5 5 5 4 4 4 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 2–3 4

4–5 5 5 5 4–5 4–5 5 5 5 5 5 4–5 5 5

Red RLS 200% 1 .5 4–5 4 5 4–5 4–5 2–3 4 4 4–5 4 5 5 4–5 5

5 4–5 5 5 4–5 3–4 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 5 5 5

Red 10B 140% 0.95 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 3–4 4 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 5 4 5

5 5 5 5 5 4–5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5

= aftertreated with CIBAFIX® PAS

Chlorinated water
Sea water Perspiration, alkaline Rubbing
POLAR % mg/L available chlorine

Ch PA CV Ch PA CV 20 50 100 dry wet

Orange GSN 150% 1 .2 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 4 4 3–4 D 2–3 D 5 5

5 5 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4 2–3 D 5 5

Orange GRLS 200% 1 .5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 2–3 WD 1 WD 5 5

5 5 5 4–5 5 5 4 2–3 WD 1–2 WD 5 5

Red B 125% 1.45 4–5 3–4 4–5 4–5 3–4 4 4 4 4 5 5

5 5 5 4–5 5 5 4 4 4 5 5

Red RLS 200% 1 .5 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 3D 2 WD 5 5

4–5 5 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 3D 2 WD 5 5

Red 10B 140% 0.95 5 4–5 4–5 5 4 4–5 4 4 3–4 5 5

5 5 5 5 5 5 4 4 4 5 5

= aftertreated with CIBAFIX® PAS

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Ciba® POLAR® acid dyes

Dry cleaning Dry heat Reservation staining


Discharge- Stripping
POLAR % perchloreth. 30s/180°C of multifiber strip
ability
Ch Ch PA CO PES PAN partial % reduction oxidation

Orange GSN 150% 1 .2 4 4–5 5 3–4 4 4–5 5 40  


4–5 4–5 5

Orange GRLS 200% 1 .5 4–5 5 5 3–4 3–4 4 5 25 ◨ 


4–5 4–5 5

Red B 125% 1.45 4–5 5 5 3 4 4–5 4–5 65 Br 


4–5 5 5

Red RLS 200% 1 .5 4–5 4–5 5 2–3 3 3–4 5 20 ◨ Br


4–5 4–5 5

Red 10B 140% 0.95 4–5 5 5 3 4 4 5 40 Br 


4–5 4–5 5

= aftertreated with CIBAFIX® PAS

Stripping:  completely stripped ◨ partially stripped  no effect

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Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends

Notes on the pattern section


Standard dyeings
TECTILON, ERIONYL A, LANASET and POLAR dyes were applied on polyamide/elastane tricot (80/20) at 2
or 3 different shade depths by the methods described, at 98°C/208°F, liquor ratio 20:1.

Fastness properties
Fastness properties were tested in accordance with SN-ISO 105 or international standards. Fastness
ratings refer to the material illustrated with and sometimes without aftertreatment. Where multifiber strip
is specified as adjacent fabric, such as in wash test C06 B2, adjacent fabric not mentioned in the table
attained rating 5 for staining.

Light fastness was tested at the given depths, wet fastness at 1/1 standard depth (SD) or as light navy
(N/L) and deep black (B/Dk). Standard depth 1/1 was determined colorimetrically in accordance with ISO
105-A06 (edition 1995, “Instrumental determination of standard depth 1/1”).

Results can differ, depending on fiber material, and for special requirements preliminary trials are
advisable.

Polyamide microfibers frequently have considerably lower fastness properties than conventional varieties.

Key to fastness tables

Ch = shade change Br = brighter


CO = staining of cotton De = deeper
CV = staining of viscose D = duller, flatter
PA = staining of polyamide 66 textured tricot W = weaker
PAN = staining of acrylics
PES = staining of polyester
WO = staining of wool

Bl = bluer BB = considerably bluer


Bn = browner
G = greener GG = considerably greener
R = redder RR = considerably redder
V = more violet
Y = yellower YY = considerably yellower

N/L = standard depth “light navy”


N/Dk = standard depth “dark navy”
B/L = standard depth “light black”
B/Dk = standard depth “dark black”

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Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends

Staining of elastane

EL = Elastane 0 = no staining of EL
PA = Polyamide 1 = poor dyeing of EL
2 = medium dyeing of EL
3 = tone-in-tone dyeing of EL
4 = heavy staining of EL (EL deeper than PA)

Bl = bluer
G = greener
R = redder
Y = yellower

Artificial light/Philips TL 84
Shade was assessed under a MacBeth lamp and a TL 84 tubular fluorescent lamp and compared with that
in daylight.

Dischargeability
Dischargeability was rated 1 to 5, rating 5 indicating “discharged to white” and rating 1 “no effect”.

Method:

thickening (Meyprogum NPS 8%, Meyhall) 550 g


cold water 275 g
Decrolin (BASF) 150 g
LYOPRINT APN 5 g
UVITEX NFW 1:2 20 g
1’000 g
- print
- dry
- fix (10 min air-excluded saturated steam)
- finish off

Build up
Exhaustion > 95%, referred to a dyeing without auxiliaries on polyamide/elastane tricot (80/20), 1h at
98°C/208°F, liquor ratio 20:1, at the following shade depths:

5 = very good (> 3/1 SD)


4 = good (> 2/1 SD)
3 = moderate ( 1/1 SD)
2 = poor (< 1/1 SD)

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Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends

Migration
Test method: treat dyed and non-dyed material (1/1 SD or pale navy) at a 1:1 ratio in a blank bath
without auxiliaries, 1h at 98°C/208°F, liquor ratio 20:1

5 = very good (40–50% dye migration)


4 = good (30–40% dye migration)
3 = moderate (20–30% dye migration)
2 = weak (10–20% dye migration)
1 = very weak (0–10% dye migration)

Barriness
This was tested on polyamide 66 test material without auxiliaries at shade depth 1/1 SD or pale navy.

5 = no barriness
4–5 = trace barry
4 = slightly barry
3–4 = noticeably barry
3 = considerably barry
2–3 = considerably to very barry
2 = highly barry

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Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends — auxiliaries

CH 3 : Auxiliaries

Ciba® ALBEGAL® SET leveling agent


● Leveling agent for the Ciba® LANASET® dyeing system on polyamide

● Affinity for the fiber and the dye

● Promotes migration, shade build up, leveling power and penetration

● Breaks down dye aggregations and speeds up dye diffusion

● Enhances bath exhaustion

● Low foaming

Migration/leveling on polyamide Breaking down dye aggregations

1% ALBEGAL SET without

without 1% ALBEGAL SET

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Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends — auxiliaries

CIBAFAST® AO anti oxidant for polyamide


● Reduces fiber degradation due to light and especially heat

● Improves light fastness of dyeings in pale and medium shades

● Suitable for all PA6 and PA66

● Very good affinity for the fiber and good liquor stability

● Metal-free

Fastness to molding on PA66 molded for 60s at 204°C/399°F

without product

2% CIBAFAST AO

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Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends — auxiliaries

CIBAFIX® CL chlorine fastness improver


● Natural product to improve chlorine and wet fastness (100% biodegradable)

● Improves fastness properties of fiber and dyeing

● Usable application for all kind of swimwear fabrics

● Excellent build up and leveling power

● Applicable over a large pH range (pH 3–6)

● High exhaustion rate

Fastness to chlorine on polyamide/Lycra 82:18


100 mg/L act. Cl (according to M&S C37)

1.4% Ciba® ERIONYL® Red A-2BF 1.9% Ciba® ERIONYL® Green A-BG

without 3% CIBAFIX CL without 3% CIBAFIX CL

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Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends — auxiliaries

CIBAFIX® PAS fixative for polyamide


● Improves wet fastness properties of dyeings and prints

● Much improved stability to concentrated acids — less danger of spotting in application

● Reserving agent for white ground in washing off prints

● High exhaustion rate

Aftertreatment method on PA66


1.8% Ciba® ERIONYL® Red 2B 154%

no auxiliary 1.0% 2.0%

Wash test 50°C/122°F

Water severe

Perspiration alkaline

Aftertreatment method on PA66


0.6% Ciba® TECTILON® Yellow 4R-01 200% / 1.2% Ciba® TECTILON® Blue 6G 200%

no auxiliary 1.0% 2.0%

Wash test 50°C/122°F

Water severe

Perspiration alkaline

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Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends — auxiliaries

CIBAFIX® ECO fixative for cellulose


● Fixative for very deep shades to enhance wet fastness

● Applied on PA/EL after anionic fixation with CIBAFIX PAS

Combined aftertreatment method on polyamide/elastane


7% Ciba® ERIONYL® Black M-BN — wash test 50°C/122°F, M&S C4A

PA

without
aftertreatment

with 1.5% CIBAFIX


PAS, rinse and
2.0% CIBAFIX ECO

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Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends — auxiliaries

CIBAFLOW® CIR penetration accelerant


● APEO- and solvent-free de-aerating agent with wetting and durable antifoam properties

● Instant penetration of goods, especially recommended for circulating liquor dyeing machines

● Adequate stability to shear forces

● Stable in acid and alkaline media

● Promotes constant liquor flow, hence inside-outside levelness and reduced risk of channeling

● Free from mineral oil and organic solvent

● Low odor

Wetting/deaerating/defoaming

wetting penetration wetting defoaming penetration


water
agent accelerant agent agent accelerant

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Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends — auxiliaries

CIBAFLOW® JET penetration accelerant


● APEO- and solvent-free product with strongly pronounced antifoaming action

● Specially recommended for jet and overflow machines and machines with short liquor or air stream
technology alternative

● Very stable to high alkali and electrolyte concentrations

● Highly stable to shear forces

● Free from mineral oil and organic solvent

● Low odor

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Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends — auxiliaries

CIBAFLUID® C lubricant
● Reduces creasing in piece dyeing
● Markedly reduces textile-to-textile friction
● Prevents cracks and abrasion marks
● No adverse effect on the stability of the dyebath
● No retarding effect

Reduction of textile-to-textile friction

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Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends — auxiliaries

Ciba® UNIVADINE® MC NEW leveling agent for polyamide


● Special designed for leveling 1:2 metal complex dyes e.g. Ciba® LANASET® dyes. Can also be used for
acid dyes

● Outstanding coverage of barriness and improvement of migration with 1:2 metal complex dyes

● Improves surface levelness on all polyamide qualities

● Adequate retarding action

● Very good wetting and precipitation inhibiting effect

Coverage of barriness/leveling
Ciba® LANASET® dyes

1%
UNIVADINE MC NEW

without leveler

2%
UNIVADINE MC NEW

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Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends — auxiliaries

Ciba® UNIVADINE PA NEW leveling agent for acid dyes / Ciba® UNIVADINE
NT NEW leveling agent for acid dyes
● Highly efficient HT-stable leveling agents with reproducible results

● UNIVADINE PA NEW helps to achieve highest standards of levelness with balanced migration and
coverage of barriness. Has no negative retarding and blocking effect

● UNIVADINE NT NEW promotes customary standards of levelness with very good coverage of barriness
and migration

Covering of barriness/leveling
Ciba® ERIONYL® A dyes

without

2% UNIVADINE PA NEW

2% UNIVADINE NT NEW

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CH 4 : Miscellaneous

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