Gen 2 table holder plans

An attachment for the 2x72” tilting belt grinder

Some important notes:

1. To use this attachment, you will first have to build my 2x72” tilting belt grinder. Plans for it
and the platen attachment (the grayed out parts shown above) are available here: http://
etsy.me/2sm5uvg Plans & Sketchup models for all other attachments & jigs are available on
my website, here: http://jerswoodshop.com/2x72-tilting-belt-grinder/
2. It is assumed that you will build and use the belt grinder and this attachment in a safe
manner, therefore, few safety precautions are set forth in these plans. Build and use at your
own risk. I am not responsible for any injuries caused by the manufacture and use of the belt
grinder or this attachment.
3. Building assumptions: It is assumed that you have a basic knowledge of fabricating and
metalworking. These plans will give you a few pointers and what techniques worked best for
me, but they will not tell you how to set your welder, etc., since I assume you already know
how to do that. All welds on the build may be ground & touched up for looks, so long as you
don't grind away the structure of the weld. Everything should be checked with a square prior
to welding, and all parts should be built with good precision, for best results.
4. Painting should be left to the end of the build, after testing is complete. Some parts may
need to be modified slightly, so it’s best to leave painting for after that’s done.
5. If you haven't seen the YouTube build video for this attachment, please watch it prior to
building the attachment: https://youtu.be/6lbUuRWsiFg
6. If you have any questions, or if you find any errors in these plans, you can contact me at
jerswoodshop@gmail.com.

Page 1 Gen 2 table holder plans © 2018 Jeremy Schmidt

Parts list:
“Used in…” indicates which step(s) in the plans use this part. Refer to that step or steps for
more information about that part.
Part/material name Size Quantity Used in…

Steel flatbar 3/8” x 1-1/2” 20” Steps 1 & 9

Steel flatbar 3/8” x 2” 16” Steps 1, 8, &10

Steel plate 3/8” thick 5” x 8” minimum Step 5

Steel square bar 1-1/2” x 1-1/2” 16-1/2” Steps 2 & 6

Steel plate for tables 3/8” thick recommended Approx. 8” x 8” for each Making tables, page 9

Steel tube for tables 1-1/2” square, 1/4” wall Approx. 9” for each Making tables, page 9

Grade 8 nut 3/8"-16 1 Step 4

Grade 8 bolts 3/8”-16 x 3/4” 4 Step 13

Flat washers 3/8" 4 Step 13

Bolt or handle 3/8”-16 x 1” 1 Step 13

Nomenclature:
 Table

Tool arm

Table holder

Mounting
plate
Locking Table
handle
Connecting
structure

Support
structure

Table post
Table tube

Page 2 Gen 2 table holder plans © 2018 Jeremy Schmidt

Step 1 1-1/4” 3/4”
Start by cutting out the parts to make the table tube. The
left and right sides of the tube are made from 3/8 x 2”
flatbar, and the front and back of the tube are 3/8 x 1-1/2” 45°
flatbar. Cut out the sides according to the drawing on the 1:1 scale
right. This drawing may be printed and used as a template,
but be sure to confirm the dimensions after printing. After
tapping the holes in the left side plate, remove any burrs
from them so the surfaces are perfectly flat. The back plate
of the tube is 4-1/2” long, and the front plate is 4” long
overall, with the end beveled to 45°.

4-1/2”
3/8”-16
tapped holes

3”
(left plate only)

1/2”
1/2” 1”

Step 2 2”
Set the tube up to be welded together. Clamp the four parts around
a piece of 1-1/2” square bar, using a 0.030-0.050” thick shim on
two sides, so the inside dimensions of the tube will be at least 1.53
x 1.53”. I used utility knife blades as shims. Tack weld each edge in
3 or 4 places, but do not weld it solid yet. Remove the clamps and
slide the tube off the 1-1/2” bar (this will take significant force). 0.030”
Once it is removed from the bar you can finish welding it solid. To shims
prevent the tube from warping into a rhombus shape, you should
only weld about 1” per edge before moving to a different corner.
This will cause the whole tube to heat up more evenly, rather than
getting a build-up of heat in one area.


Offset leaves
space to fill
with weld

Page 3 Gen 2 table holder plans © 2018 Jeremy Schmidt

Step 3
Tables will be secured in the table tube by a locking handle
installed in the right front corner of the tube, so you need to weld
in a nut to accept that locking handle. Start by grinding/filing a flat
spot on a 45° angle into the corner of the tube. The center of the
flat spot should be 2-1/4” up from the bottom of the tube, and the
flat area should be about 3/4” square. Note: because of the
angled weld on
the corner of
the tube, the
flat spot may
appear to be at
the wrong
angle even if
it’s right, so ~3/4”
trust your
protractor,
not your 2-1/4”
eyes.

Step 4
Find the center of the flat spot,
and drill a 7/16” hole through
the corner of the tube at a 45°
angle. Use caution when
drilling, since the bit may catch
in the corner of the tube.
Remove any burrs from the
hole. Place a 3/8”-16 nut in the
center of the flat spot, and
carefully weld it in place. The
table tube is now complete.


Tip: You can use a bolt to hold

the nut in place while you weld. Nut
Use a 3/8”-16 x 1” bolt with a Washer
washer, threaded into the nut
from inside the tube. The bolt
also keeps weld spatter from Bolt
getting in the nut.

Page 4 Gen 2 table holder plans © 2018 Jeremy Schmidt

Step 5
Get started on the connecting structure by cutting
out the left & right sides from 3/8” thick steel
plate, according to the template below. The left
side is identical to the right, except that it lacks
the 1-3/4” bit that extends forward, as shown.

3/4” 1-1/4”

45°
2-1/2”

Ri
Le

gh
ft
7/8”
2”

si

t
si
de

de
1:1 scale

45°
1-3/4”
1”
1-3/4”

45°
5/8”

2-3/8” 2-3/8”

Step 6
Cut your 1-1/2” solid square bar to 16-1/2” length to use for the tool arm. Cut a 45° bevel on
the end, as shown below.


Tool arm 45°

16-1/2”
overall length
1/4”
1-1/4”

Page 5 Gen 2 table holder plans © 2018 Jeremy Schmidt

Step 7
The sides of the connecting structure will be welded to the tool Chamfers
arm as shown on the right, but before welding, you need to
chamfer the edges of the tool arm and the side plates to create
a “V” to fill with weld. Once the chamfers are created, remove
any burrs and make sure the mating surfaces are clean. Then
clamp the two side plates to the tool arm, make sure they’re
square, and tack them in place. Don’t weld them solid yet.

V to fill
with weld

Step 8
Tack weld a 1-3/4” long
piece of 3/8 x 2” flatbar
into the front of the
connecting structure,
angled to join both of the
sides together as seen in
the pictures on the right.
Don’t weld it solid yet.

Step 9
Fill in the top and bottom
of the connecting structure with small pieces of steel to create a tube. I used 3/8 x 1-1/2”
flatbar for this since I had it on hand, but thinner material would work as well. These pieces
close in the structure, which helps it resist twisting forces, and makes it look nicer. The exact
placement of the pieces is not critical as long as they close up the tube. Once all the pieces are
tacked in place, you can finish welding all of the seams on the
connecting structure, including welding the sides onto the tool arm.


Page 6 Gen 2 table holder plans © 2018 Jeremy Schmidt

Step 10 2”
Cut out the mounting plate from 3/8 x 2” flatbar, according
to the template on the right. Drill the 7/16” holes and
remove any burrs left by the drill.

Step 11 1/2” 1”
The mounting plate will be Shim
welded to the right side of the
connecting structure, but it
needs to be spaced away from
the connecting structure by
1/8”. Cut a 1-1/2 x 1-3/4”
1:1 scale

4”
shim, from 1/8” thick steel.

3”
Make sure the shim doesn’t
have any burrs or bumps that
prevent it from sitting flat.

Place the shim on the 7/16”

right side of the holes

connecting structure
with a ~1/8” reveal
on 3 sides, as
shown below.

Step 12
Place the mounting plate centered on top of the shim
and clamp it lightly. The mounting plate should be centered
~1/8” vertically on the end of the connecting structure and the front
reveal edge of it should be flush with the front edge of the connecting
structure. Be sure it is square to the tool arm, then tack the mounting
plate in place on all four corners. Then weld the mounting plate
solidly to the connecting structure on all four sides.

Vertically
centered

Page 7 Gen 2 table holder plans © 2018 Jeremy Schmidt

Step 13
Assemble the table tube onto the connecting structure
using four 3/8-16 x 3/4” bolts and flat washers. With the
bolts loose, you should be able to rock the tube back
and forth a couple degrees. Thread a 3/8”-16 locking
handle or bolt into the corner of the table tube, and be
sure you can slide a piece of 1-1/2” square tube into the
tube and lock it in place. If everything works as designed,
you can disassemble and paint the parts. Mask off the
tool arm and the inside of the table tube, as well as the
threaded holes.
Reassemble, but leave
the bolts loose for now.

Step 14
Your new table holder
attachment is now
complete, but it needs
to be adjusted so the
table tube is parallel to
the platen. Secure a
piece of 1-1/2” square
tube in the table holder
as shown below, and
use a scrap of wood or
metal as a feeler gauge to check the gap between the square tube and the platen. Slide the
block up and down the platen, adjusting the angle as needed until the square tube is parallel to
the platen. Once parallel, tighten the four bolts securely.
Note: you’ll see in the photo that I left the belt on the
grinder during this
operation. This
keeps the platen
“preloaded” to be
sure it is in its 1/2” thick
normal use “feeler gauge”
position. This may
not be necessary,
but that explains
why I did it. Your
table holder is
now complete and
ready to use.


Page 8 Gen 2 table holder plans © 2018 Jeremy Schmidt

Making tables
The purpose of the table holder is to allow you to
cheaply and easily make whatever sort of tables you
want, therefore this section is only a few guidelines &
pointers to help you make your tables. The table post
is made from 1-1/2” thick-walled square tubing, and
in most cases 9” length seems to work about right.
Too far; may
I made my primary table from 3/8” steel plate, 8”
cause chatter
square. Ideally, the table post should be close to
the belt. If the post is too far from the belt, the thin
table that spans that distance will flex minutely and
cause chatter. You can also help prevent chatter by
adding a support structure under the table, such as a few
pieces of flatbar standing on edge, welded to the table post.
You can make tables at any angle, and since the table
holder’s vertical tube is parallel to the belt, the angle just Tube is close to
needs to be correct relative to the table post. Be careful belt; prevents
when welding the table to the post to prevent excessively chatter
warping the table. Of course, there is really no limit to what
can be mounted in the table holder; it is not restricted to just
tables. Get creative, and I’ll be interested to see what kind of
jigs you can come up with!

Support structure

Page 9 Gen 2 table holder plans © 2018 Jeremy Schmidt