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AIR 63 cover_Layout 1 09/11/2015 15:49 Page 1

DECEMBER/JAN 2015 • £6.50 UK $15.99


Chen Zexi brings Hasegawa’s kit up to speed

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AIR 63 Dec-Jan 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 10/11/2015 12:46 Page 1

2 ‘Big Wing’ Ta-152 H1
Zoukei-Mura’s 1:32 kit modelled by Tristan Estoppey.

12 P-40 Warhawk, part 2

Daniel Zambarbide Suárez takes us step-by-step through his 1:32 project.

20 F/A-18C
Hasegawa’s 1:48 kit is reworked and detailed by Chen Zexi.

30 Man Overboard!
Jaen-Bernard Andre describes his dramatic F-8 diorama.

38 Westland Wessex HU5

Grega Krizman builds and details the 1:48 Italeri kit

48 Air Born
New releases.

56 IPMS Hellas 2015

The Editor presents a small photo report from the
Greek National Championships held in Athens.

58 F-5E Tiger II
Luc van den Ende reworks the veteran 1:32 Hasegawa kit
with spectacular results.

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AIR 63 Dec-Jan 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 09/11/2015 15:28 Page 2


Z O U K E I - M U R A’ S 1 : 3 2 K I T M O D E L L E D B Y T R I S TA N E S T O P P E Y

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aving missed the initial release of everyone's taste but eventually proved to be

H Zoukei-Mura's Ta-152H1, now sold-out

for some time, I used the so-called
"Slipstream Edition" of this gracious
airplane. Compared to the initial release, this
edition features optional decals for a manga-style
comfortable to work with.
As usual, I began by detaching from the sprues
and carefully cleaning up every piece, a time-
consuming task since many of them feature
prominent moulding lines and steps. This boring
black painted aircraft and a well rendered 300l stage is crucial as the typical Zukei-Mura
drop tank (unfortunately not the right type of tank modular assembly sequence requires a rigorous
and attachment system for an operational Ta- approach to minimize fit issues later in the build
152). Pieces are moulded in a soft black and (think butterfly effect).
silver-grey styrene which might not be to

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Assembly of the liquid-cooled Jumo engine
was trouble-free and only a couple of
enhancements were made: Alclad
• My references show that exhaust tips white aluminium,
must be flush with the side cowling panels (a steel and Tamiya Nato
noticeable difference with the FW-190D), Black (my ubiquitous scale
accordingly the exhaust shrouds rectangular black) were used as base colours. A thin
boxes were trimmed-down in order to place coat of Klear floor polish was sprayed on the
them closer to the engine sides. black parts for a semi-gloss finish and a coat Cockpit
• Once assembled in its mount, some of flat varnish over the aluminium parts to kill The cockpit is not the best area of the kit, both
pipes/cables were added to the engine as its the shine. Details were picked-up with in term of moulding finesse and details.
rear end is clearly exposed through the open acrylic aluminium paint and weathering was • Both kit seats (with and without moulded
wheel wells. achieved using black and brown washes and harness) are oddly shaped and softly defined
a 6B lead pencil. so I opted for the bare one and sanded it down

to a better shape and scale thickness. The

seat attachment points were scratchbuilt out of
styrene card and a cushion was sculpted in
• The harness was cut out of a Verlinden lead
foil and photoetched buckles were taken from
a HGW set (also used as reference for the
straps length/width). Lead is resistant to
manipulations and allows the harness to be
twisted and bent into natural shapes with great
ease. Once in place it was painted with an off-
white/sandy colour (but an olive green colour
would be appropriate too) and slightly
weathered with a brown wash.
• The instrument panel is crudely defined and
the kit instruments decals poorly printed. In
addition, most Airscale instruments decals I
was eager to use were much too large for the
ZM panel. I sorted this out by sanding flat the
dials contours and applied a mix of Airscale
and ZM decals. A compromise conveniently
4 hidden below the deep coving.
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• The kit gunsight was replaced with a Assembling and Dymo tape were used to keep rivet
Quickboost item, which fit nicely into the Assembling of the main parts started with rows regular and straight. Mr. Surfacer
coving hole. the multi-parts wings. Despite numerous was also required to tone down the
• The fuel and GM-1 tanks, placed below dry-fits, I ended-up with wide joint lines. predominant kit rivets on the cockpit
and behind the cockpit, respectively, are Cyanoacrylate glue and Mr. Surfacer were flanks.
totally invisible but I decided to give them a called into the rescue and eventually all Closing the main fuselage halves required
quick paint job anyway! engraved details, except the wing root some attention, mostly in the upper front
The cockpit base colour is Tamiya XF-66 panels, were filled and re-scribed. area. To make the windscreen sit flush with
German Grey. Chipping was applied using Once the wings were assembled I gave the the fuselage, the width of the portion
a small piece of foam dipped in Vallejo model a full rivet job, following the Model where it sits was reduced. On the rear end,
aluminium acrylic and further weathering Art 336 plan and references pictures. I the mating of the 2-parts tail with the half-
was done with black/brown washes as well used the small diameter MDC punch for fuselages required the locating tabs to be
as with my airbrush loaded with a highly this task. The provided MDC spacing ruler removed, a careful sanding and some
diluted black/brown mix.

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plastic card. Mr. Surfacer, wiped-off using Mr Hobby Leveling

Thinner to avoid any rivet damage, was used to complete the job.
Joining the wings to the fuselage required plastic card, spacers upper cowling was joined to the fuselage main parts.
(made from sprue sections) and Mr. Surfacer on both the belly sides The lateral cowlings fit perfectly but care must be taken to correctly
and wing roots. Allow yourself plenty of dry fits as this is the most align the exhausts on both sides. I removed the mesh from the air
complex assembly stage. Note that the MG tubes must be put in compressor as this an element added by the Americans on their
place before gluing their access hatch (MG are included should you captured Ta-152H stored at the NASM. Unveiled, the inside of the
want to hatches opened). intake was rebuilt using plastic card and filler. The small cowling
Unless you choose to leave a side cowling opened, I strongly advise bumps at the front of the exhaust shrouds were removed and
to depart form the assembly guide and glue the engine mount to replaced by a flat piece of plastic card, as observed on the Ta-
the upper cowling first. This will make sure the engine and its 152H0 stored at the NASM. The Ta-152H1 might have a small
mount, a crucial element for the assembly of all the other forward bump at this location but in any case much less pronounced than
elements, are correctly positioned. Once this done, the what which ZM provides.

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Painting Alclad dark aluminium was then sprayed on the wings undersides.
I started by priming the whole model with a good layer of Tamiya Some areas were then oversprayed with lighter shades.
TS-30 Spray Aluminium Paint decanted into my airbrush. A few Slightly lightened Gunze RLM65 (which was typically used on fabric
imperfections were corrected at this stage and primer re-sprayed covered structures) was then sprayed on the rudder and on the
locally. ailerons undersides. Note that on some aircrafts, flaps were made
Since main markings were painted, a layer of white was then out of wood and painted RLM76 or RLM65. Gunze RLM76 was then
applied at the wing upper crosses location. Tamiya tape, cut into applied on the fuselage sides and on the underside, following a W2
shape using an Hasegawa decal sheet as a template, was then scheme, i.e. leaving the 2nd half of the wings bare metal. This base
place at the cross locations. The same process was used for the colour was slightly reworked with a lighter shade to break uniformity.
fuselage numbers and RV bands. The swastikas and fuselage crosses were then painted using self-

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The markings applied and ready to start weathering the model.

The exhaust stains are built up gradually in thin layers and then areas of wear and
selective cleaning are created with scalpels and micromesh cloth to lift the colour.

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Worn paint on the wing roots is created in the same way.

made masks. They were painted at this stage since they were partially
overpainted with the upper camouflage shades.
Starting with the wings, the upper colours were applied freehand with a
tight demarcation. After having hesitated for ages, I opted for a
RLM81/82 combination, which was the standard camouflage pattern for
the TA-152C, and other German aircraft, from November 1944. Gunze
RLM83 was used, reworked with touches of dark green, violet and
brown to achieve the so-called green variant of RLM81. Gunze RLM82
was slightly darkened. The paint was applied in a slightly uneven
manner as a first weathering step.
The model then received a couple of coats of Future Floor polish,
applied straight from the bottle with my airbrush (to get an overall
slightly glossy finish) and then every spot where decals would be
applied was oversprayed with a good coat of Tamiya gloss varnish X-22
to obtain an ultra glossy finish, thus eradicating any silvering risk.
Decals were applied using a mix of the kit decals and those from and
EagleCals sheet. They were then sealed with Tamiya X-22 again.

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Oil stains are built up

along the belly of the
aircraft using these

Weathering Last bits

The exhausts were built up gradually using a 3:1 black/red brown • The Pitot probe, FuG 16ZY (both whip and direction finding loop
mix using photographic references. A browner mix (2:1 antenna) as well as the FuG 25a IFF (the rod under the fuselage)
black/brown) was used to indicate dirt on the whole aircraft. Oil were replaced by steel tubes, wire or fine straps.
stains on the underside were created using a similar mix, in • Undercarriage position indicators were made out of stretched
combination with black-brown oil paint applied with a brush. sprue and painted red.
Wing root chipping was done using scalpel blades (mostly a • Antenna wire was made of very fine brass wire. A material that
curved one) and micromesh pieces held in self-locking tweezers . allows the antenna to be coiled like the real thing at attachment
The area was then reworked with oil paint and airbrush. points. Isolators are small section of 0.4 mm steel tubes.
Micro-mesh was also used to wear selected parts (cockpit flanks,
cowling panels). This is particularly efficient when rivets rows can Conclusion
be exposed, if kept subtle. Finally, a coat of a 1:1 mix of matt and Slow progression, anticipation and plenty of dry fits are the key to
gloss Pébéo varnish was applied. obtain the best from Zoukei-Mura's second kit. With its beautiful
profile and endless wings, this aircraft won't go unnoticed in your
WWII aircraft collection!
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Curtiss P-40N
Warhawk PART TWO

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To begin the phase of painting, I always begin with the lighter colour
or underside colour, which in this case are the same and that is
none other than neutral grey (Tamiya XF-53). That colour was mixed
with other greys, lighter colours, cream or earthy colours or white in
small proportions, varying the tone of neutral gray in each of the
panels that will bring more rich colour to be painted with one colour
(Pic1). To the top, before you start applying olive green in the wing
roots I apply a layer of silver, in my case, I used a Enamel paint type
in silver (Tamiya X-11) (Pic 2) after one hour drying, I started
applying the olive. One of the most interesting effects of the P-40 is
worn weathered paint on the wing roots and for that I did the

1 2 3

1:32 MODELLED BY Daniel Zamarbide Suárez

Building up the tones of Olive drab on the upper

surfaces, leaving the aluminiums paint showing
through on the wing roots. Darker Olive drab 5
shading is then applied.

6 7

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8 9 10

1) diluted paint until it almost transparent, you just see the metallic undercoat at the but worth doing as you get as you apply
with a rough mix of these proportions: roots leaving it as nuanced as possible. them, various shades for each of the
90% solvent (Tamiya X-20) + 10% Olive At this point, the plane and the basic panels. The model greatly improves.
Drab (Tamiya XF-62) colour scheme are complete so the next
2) Then I applied successive almost step is degrading the olive green. To do The next job is to paint the shark’s mouth
transparent layers on the wing root area. this, I mix the base colour (Olive drab) with on the nose of the aircraft. To do this I
3) As I'm working away from the fuselage different shades of very light brown, made a copy of the mouth to the scale of
to the wing tips, I will thicken the paint mix cream-colours or sands that give more life the plane, and then, with scissors, I cut the
to stop the degradation of green paint until to model. This is a rather lengthy process teeth and the pattern from masking tape,

11 12 13

14 15 16

tracing over the scale copy. The masks
were then positioned on the model and the
painting began paint applying the colours
with the airbrush as you can see in the
step by step sequence. The black detail on
the eye was added using a fine drawing
Now with sand or cream Vallejo acrylics,
applied by brush I made small chips, (pic
19-22) especially in the areas of the
engine and weapons covers. This was

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repeated with the glossy surfaces I started the degradation of green and
in the same way on the undersides but with a clear or pearl grey. grey with various shades of those colours but this time using oil
I applied a coat of gloss varnish over all surfaces of the model in paints, which after going blending them, they create an
preparation for applying the decals and I positioned the decals appearance of wear and use on the plane and then sealing the
and small stencils before applying another coat of gloss varnish. entire process with a final layer of matt varnish (Pic 24).

19 20

21 22 23

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An interesting effect is adding the fuel stains around the

filler located near the cockpit glazing and this was done
using the set of AK-Interactive engine oils and grease. A
build up of different densities of stains follow the effects of
gravity and airflow from the filler point (pic 26). Gloss
varnish will add the feel of fresh spills and contrasts
perfectly with the matt finish of the rest of the airframe.

25 26

27 28

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29 30 31



Pics 29-30, panel line washes are applied to the underside and the pipes (pics 34-36). The drop tank was next to be weathered
blended for a subtle finished effect and deposits of dirt thrown up (pics 37-43) beginning with some graphite chips made using a
by the undercarriage are added to the wings around the wheel pencil and then a dark wash was applied. Assorted fuel stains
wells. The exhaust pipes are painted individually starting with a were added from the filler cap using different tones of AK
very dark red/brown and then stippling tan and brown shades over Interactive engine wash. Grey oil paint was used to break up the
this. The details on the exhausts are picked out with a high uniform grey paint of the tank before brown dirt washes were
contrast black wash (pics 31-33). The exhausts are glued into applied to the bottom of the tank. The final step was to apply a
place and pigments are then used to add the exhaust staining to matt varnish to the tank.

34 35 36

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37 38 39

40 41 42

43 44 45

46 47 48

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Finally, following the same steps of

painting as used on the fuselage, I
finished the landing gear with its covers
and wheels. For the wheels, the wheels
of the Hasegawa kit have poor detail,
especially in the tire tread, so I replaced
them with resin tires by Barracuda
Studios designed for the P-51 Mustang. I
was able to insert the plastic wheel hubs
into the tires which required some
sanding but with excellent results.
After having completed all the exterior
parts and the finished aircraft only the
final assembly of the detail parts that
complete the model, with the last job
being to add the antenna cables.

These 1:32 Hasegawa kits are
sensational, fun, simple and very
practical to do allowing the modeller to
enjoy in all the fields of this beautiful
hobby with this type of model. It is a
highly recommended kit that does not
give you problems and makes you want
to build another! Next time it would be
one with a skull instead of a shark's

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Hasegawa’s 1:48 Kit Modelled by Chen Zexi 陈泽熹
F/A-18C Hornet is one of the main fighters of modern U.S
Navy. It has great flight performance, climb rate, and is very
multifunctional. They have participated in many of the
regional conflicts and served as ground attacker and close
air support and established an excellent reputation.

As a modeller, my favourites subjects are modern jet

fighters, so the F/A-18 is definitely one of my greatest loves.
In 1:48 scale, Monogram and Hasegawa both have kits
which were released at the end of the last century.
Comparatively speaking, Hasegawa’s kit has the better
shape and details, and also supports various update sets
like the Aires cockpit, wheel bays, exhaust nozzles, radar
and electronic bays.
Wolfpack offer a set of folding wings and a Hornet upgrade
set and Eduard have a photoetched detail set all of which
enhance the details and accuracy of the model.

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Construction of depth very well. Some parts of the

I started with the cockpit and I used the control panel was made from photoetch
Aries replacement resin product which is and film After finishing the detail painting, I
very accurate and detailed. It is one piece applied a dark wash over the cockpit parts
with a tub for the sides and main floor. To and then it was ready to be assembled.
get this to fit into the fuselage it was
necessary to thin down the kit fuselage The next area I looked at was the radar, for
walls around the cockpit, which was done which I used Aires resin parts too. The F/A-
using a burr in a mini drill. I painted the 18's radar has a sliding structure which
cockpit with a light grey to balance the allows service crews to take it out for
visual effect since it usually looks darker in routine maintenance. Because the Aires
photos because of poor light. I painted the radar only shows the surface details before
smaller details with a brush, for example I radar is moved out from the fuselage, I
used 3 and 4 different deep greys for the planned to add more detail, showing the
control panel, which increased the illusion whole radar when it being serviced.

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First I cut the front part of radar out

carefully, sanded it thin. I used plastic card
to build up the rear structure of the radar
and I used a knife and hand drill to add
wires and rivet details to the radar, and
made the cooling grille on the top from PE
mesh. Thin plastic card and brass wire was
used to make small detail parts on the
radar which were made by working from
some pictures of the radar from the
internet. I spent a couple of days working
on the radar and adapting the fuselage and
nose cone to accept it.

Moving on with the assembly of the rest of

the fuselage and adding all the update
parts like the avionics bays and wheel
bays, I had to cut away the original parts
exactly to be the same size as the
aftermarket parts. I had to keep cutting and
dry fitting the parts and it took me a whole

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week of work to put them all together. I

also replaced the air intakes with new
resin parts from too since the Hasegawa
parts do not completely show the inside

One of the most challenging parts of the

model was to create the folding wing
structures, which I had to make from
scratch. I was about to use the Wolfpack
update parts but studying photos of the
real hinges I found them not entirely
accurate or neat so I decided to build it by

Photos of the real aircraft show the folding

wing hinges and wings panels are together
which means they are on the same level
after wings are folded. I used 0.5mm
plastic card glued to the top and bottom of
some plastic rod. Once this was dry I was
able to slice this into the individual hinge
sections. I made a total of 22 hinge parts
to show the main structure which was a
long process, plus some other small parts.
The Hasegawa kit replicates an early F/A-
18 and I wanted to make a later production
aircraft. I had to change some surface
details by myself and I used brass strip,
plastic card and photoetched mesh to
reshape the radiator openings. I sanded off
some vertical tails parts and add 6 small
reinforcing panels on certain areas.

The final parts of the work included the

scratchbuilt Air Refueling Probe, rear
radiator opening, formation lights,
deepening the panel lines and so on. This
is the hard, boring parts of the project,
however next is my favourite, which is
painting and weathering.

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The aircraft I built is from VFA-94 No. 401 from
between 2008 and 2009. I found some photos
of this plane from airliners.net which are from
2007 to 2012 and I also used Fightertown
decals. I used Gunze Mr. Color C307 mixed
with a little C325 to paint dark grey on up
surfaces and C308 mixed with C338 to paint
the light grey on underside after priming. I
used low pressure and low paint output to
define the borderline of these two colours
before I added few drops of red brown to both
colours to paint the shadows and dirty areas.
For colour fading I added a little white to both
and painted this on certain faded areas, giving
a mottled finish to the paint. After that I
masked the plane body to paint the avionics
bays, wheel bays and other parts which have
different colours. Some parts like the avionics
bays, I had to hand paint all the fine details.
The exhaust nozzle needed to be masked and
then freehand airbrushed again because the
edge was too sharp after masking these

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areas. I painted the whole airframe with gloss varnish for protect and also
make the surface smooth for the decals, and the Fightertown decals worked
beautifully, with excellent accurate details.

I painted the whole aircraft with flat varnish after decals were dry to unify the
gloss and also because oil paints for the weathering will stick better on this
surface. Modern carrier-borne aircraft are usually quite dirty and I used Mig
Productions oil colours for weathering. The first step was a filter using
Shadow Brown and Faded Blue then another flat base to protect them. The
second step is for dirty areas, those places which are not frequently
cleaned. I brushed these areas with a thin layer of deep brown oil color, then
I used a clean brush with zippo lighter fuel to brush away these colours. Oil
colour will stay on the edge more than the middle of the panel and I
gradually got the effect I wanted. Another coat of flat base was applied to
protect the effect. The last stage is leaking oil. I put oil paint on the leaking
panel area and use cotton swab to drag it in the direction of the air flow. I
repeated the process to get the required effects.

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Final thoughts
The accurate shape of the Hasegawa kit and
Aires parts' outstanding details saved me a lot of
time but the plane still took me the whole year
of my spare time to complete, but I feel it was
well worth it, after this turned out as a beautiful
F/A-18 model. I hear rumours that Kinetic will
release an all new F/A-18 kit in 2016 with folding
wings and air fuelling probe details. Let us see if
this kit can surpass Hasegawa's F/A-18.

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Man Overboard!
Jean-Bernard Andre’s dramatic diorama
of an F-8’s last crusade

he picture that inspired me to build this diorama is

T part of a series where you see an F-8 Crusader

basically blown off the bridge of it’s carrier. I was
particularly attracted by the big wave caused by the impact
and decided to make a large diorama where the F-8 would
appear somehow lost in the middle of an ocean. A friend
warned me that I would not be able to find the decals for
that particular aircraft on the market, so I went for the USS
Oriskany based F-8 decals provided in the Academy 1:72
kit, if only because the shark’s head was attractive, indeed,
it’s just like putting the shark back into it’s natural habitat!

I was told the Academy F-8 kit was rather good despite its
age, well detailed and accurate except perhaps where the
wheel wells were concerned. I decided only to buy the Aires
cockpit set in the belief those wells would not be visible
when the diorama was complete. On opening the box I was
struck by the large amount of parts and also by the deep
gaps between the panels. I did some basic work on the Kit
like thinning all the intakes and doing what I could with the
undercarriage doors. I had a rather hard time embedding
the new cockpit in place...lots of trimming and dry fitting as
is often the case with aftermarket sets. Thankfully Academy
provided the under-wing surface that raises up when the
Crusader lands, as the wings were stripped off during the
accident, I had to detail this part thoroughly which I did
using plasticard and thin wire using as a reference the very
same underwing part that Aires produces in 1:48.

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half a job...
With the fuselage closed I needed to paint your car in the morning, in the evening, which were too vivid and needed to be
the exposed areas left by the wings. I when the sun rises or at mid-day, it will toned down.
couldn’t get the finish perfect using only never appear the same colour. Therefore I After various tests, I mixed some of my
Aluminium and Smoke Alclad II paints, so I just had a glance at the painting base colours from Tamiya with Alclad
tried to perfect the shadows and highlights instructions and put them in the waste transparent thinner which has the great
using Uschi’s Metallic pigments. There are basket! advantage of making the Tamiya paint dry
only three shades available but they did the I used the Tamiya version of these base almost instantly. Using several strokes of
trick. They really work like regular pigments colours as a basis, but I added some sand airbrush over the decals I managed to tone
so applying the Steel tint with a brush to warm the tones to mimic a dusty reddish down these in a suitable fashion.
provided some highlights and I managed to atmosphere. The plane was not painted
create a high sheen by polishing the raised uniformly, indeed, as it was supposed to lie Only one area of work was left: what to do
surfaces with a cotton bud. on one side with the nose higher than the with those joints between the panels? I
tail, the nose part was painted in a lighter remembered an old interior decorating
As much as I respect the need to shade of my reddish grey mix, while the tail rule: “if you can’t hide something, better put
accurately paint the model with the itself and especially the area where it joins an emphasis on it” which I did, I wasn’t
authentic colours, when set in a diorama the fuselage, was painted in a much darker about to re-scribe all those panel lines! I
we have to adapt colours to harmonise with tint so as to mimic the shadows that would used the AMMO of Mig ‘Nature Kursk
the surroundings. Indeed a diorama is be caused by the sun and water. Then I hit Effects’ (for tanks) alongside their thinner
supposed to show an event at a particular a big problem that I didn’t foresee: the and white oil paints to put emphasis on the
time, under defined weather conditions and amount of decals that cover the F-8, and raised surfaces or outline the panels with a
in a particular light. If you have a look at especially all the red and blue markings wash.

all at sea...
Now for the water. The first task was to tape as a further guarantee to avoid leaks in about the same time, which was
create the sea surface. This was done by and thoroughly greased the plasticine. I fortunate as there must have been 12
using some very hard plasticine I found in then poured about 1 kg of silicon rubber coats here. An extra difficulty of course is
an art shop, this needs a hairdryer or a into the box to create my master-mould for having to work in negative, that is, layering
heat gun to allow it to be manipulated. The the water. the tips of the waves and surface first. I
plasticine was applied to a wooden base When the silicon mould was dry, I started used some oil paints to tint the resin,
and all the recesses and peaks with a layering coat after coat of tinted epoxy browns, blues, blacks... mostly subtle tints
modelling knife, using my fingers and resin. I use the Gedeo brand which is of colours. The trick I used to do the big
everything at my disposal to create the readily available in most art shops in wave and also some of the smaller ones
smaller waves and using the heat gun to Europe. It is expensive, but is fully cured near the Crusader, was to pour some
correct areas as I progressed. (and harmless to your health) in about one strong white- tinted resin over a heavy
Once happy with the form of the water, I week while the cheaper and faster drying transparent blue-green coat and then
greased one of the 2 halves of my yet polyester resin can produce fumes for long shaping the waves with a brush leaving
unbuilt Crusader and pressed it in the still periods. Even if the drying time of Gedeo both layers to dry together creating a
warm plasticine. I built a box around the resin is slow, you can manipulate it after realistic blend of fluid colours.
wooden base, using some Tamiya masking about 24 hours and pour a new coat over it
AIR 63 Dec-Jan 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 09/11/2015 17:03 Page 33

I finally had my resin ocean ready. The first cups which was left to dry for a good ripples which I did by tinting some Acrylic
job was to embed the wing into it which I dozen hours so that the mix got very sticky gel (Vallejo Water Effects) with various
did using frankly, brute force (ripping the and thick, perfect for blending the joints AMMO & Vallejo acrylics to make some
decal in the process). Then it was time for between the Crusader and the sea. variations around the white colour of the
embedding the fuselage which went well. I foam. I applied a stronger white at the tips
subsequently prepared some different When the resin was thoroughly dried it was of the wave crests with a smaller brush.
coloured resin quantities in small coffee the time to take care of the foam and

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Finally some subtle adjustment was needed getting the figure right, although very small
around the aircraft and this is where the he is really the focal point of the whole
Alclads were again used. In reality the scene.
colours from the sea reflect back onto the
fuselage and I replicated the effect with the This was my first aircraft model and
transparent Alclad colours by spraying diorama in more than 25 years, I found the
various mixes of green, blue and smoke whole affair expensive (about 140€ in
tints so as to make the transition between materials, kit and accessories), tedious at
sea and aircraft smoother. times (having to correct the panel lines after
joining the halves of the fuselage is
It was then the time to correct a few details something we expect from older kits) and
and areas that unfortunately got damaged complicated (1:72 is a very small scale
during the previous operations, fix the indeed) but in the end it makes a nice ‘flat’
wheels, the glass cockpit, the seat etc. diorama. I devised a unique way of
For the figure I modified one of the CMK displaying the diorama using a deep (kind of
Vietnam era pilots by repositioning almost reversed) picture frame complete with
every joint so that he would still have one glass. The completed scene can then be
foot inside the plane and one hand raised. wall-mounted as any regular framed picture
I thought it important to spend some time would be.

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The completed framed diorama

ready for wall mounting

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his iconic British helicopter was initially produced for the
Royal Navy and later for the Royal Air Force and even used
to transport of the British Royal family. The Wessex entered
operational service in 1961 and had a service life in excess of forty
years before being retired in Britain.
I seemed to have to wait a long time for the Italeri Wessex to hit
the shelves, and when it did, I just couldn’t resist building it as soon
as possible. The Italeri offering looks really nice built from the box,
details are crisp, decal sheet is extensive (although the markings
are a touch small) and it even includes a PE fret and plastic mesh
for the grilles. Larger parts do have a strange texture on plastic,
they are not super smooth and the rivets are too deep, but thats
never a problem after you lay down couple of layers of primer. For
good measure, (and after measuring my display cabinet !), I
decided to add some extra details – well, an entire Wessex PE
offering from Eduard and rotor fold set from Scalewarship.

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cockpit and interior

Starting with the cockpit and crew Westland Wessex book) there were a Eduard pre-painted self adhesive photo
compartment there is some work involved couple of missing parts in the cabin that etched parts were installed. For washes I
with removing the original moulded parts would be visible when model is complete, mostly use Ammo ready-made washes,
and replacing them with PE parts from so I had to make them from scratch using this time I used blue black wash followed
Eduard (although the kit itself is really, bits of styrene, copper wire and some lead by some light grey dry brushing and some
really nice). Working with Eduard’s foil. To be honest, I didn’t pay too much dust coloured pigment. Just before final
photoetch was a straightforward job, attention to the crew compartment as it is marriage of the fuselage halves, side
except for the seats – far too complicated almost invisible when closed. So after windows of the crew compartment were
in my opinion, but well worth almost losing initial coat of Mr. Surfacer primer, GSi H322 glued in place and it was time to turn my
my mind as they really look fantastic. After light aircraft grey colour was sprayed and attentions to the exterior.
going through my references (I really details were hand brushed with Vallejo
recommend the 4+ Publications No.8 paints. After basic painting, all of the

Eduard provide lots of

photoetch detail for the cabin.

Eduard’s pre-coloured
photoetch instument facia

Eduard’s photoetch
seats proved

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I really thought that the new tooling from glazing was masked with Eduard masks display cabinet!), they have to be
Italeri would save me from filling and (EX370). straightened up. Dipping the blades into
sanding the seams when fuselage was At this point I’d decided to make the HU.5 hot (not boiling) water for a couple of
glued together, but there are some areas version of the Wessex with all the exterior seconds, straightening them by hand and
(especially the nose section) on the kit that piping, so I tackled that using different cooling them off with cold water does the
need some attention. I re-scribed all the sized lead wire, strips of masking tape and job. The Scalewarship rotor fold set
panel lines with a CMK saw and removed some Albion Alloys tubing for the contains lovely PE blade holders, fuselage
all the details that were later replaced with connectors. Next all the Eduard PE parts support frame, 3D printed plastic parts and
PE parts. The windscreen was next on the were placed in position making the model rotor heads. Assembly was a bit tricky
list, and there are some fit issues there very fragile at this stage, so I made a though, as it is necessary to cut of the
also, especially the front section which simple stand saving damage to the small rotor and blade heads and glue the printed
didn’t fit at all. Milliput was used to fill the parts I’d just installed. Rotor assembly parts the right way in order to fold them
gaps between windscreen and nose; the followed. The rotor blades from the kit have perfectly at the end.
best way to smooth it out and remove a nice sag, but if you want to present them
excess is with a wet cotton swab. The folded (thus saving valuable space in your

The photoetched parts certainly enhance the detail of the

airframe. Be prepared for some filling and re-scribing 41
around the nose.
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Mr Surfacer provides an Gunze H330 provides a soft

excellent primer coat. sheen surface.

The bright bands on the blades were first sprayed and

then masked finishing with satin black.

Rotor fold from Scalewarship

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After priming the entire model with GSi to use kit ones, which are too big (and some parts from the spares box and
Mr.Surfacer 1000 primer, it was time for the sometimes with spelling errors). various Evergreen profiles to add some
base colour. Thin coats of GSi H330 Dark After another coat of clear; this time interest to my small base. All that was left
green followed by very dilute H330 semigloss, it was time for weathering. to do was to glue a pair of brass tubes into
lightened with tan for the top surfaces and According to the photos of the actual pre-drilled holes on the bottom of the
centre of panels to break up the uniformity subject (XT479/W-X), this was a well wheels and match them with holes
of colour. Darkened mixes of the base maintained machine, so weathering was previously drilled into the base and place
colour were applied next to the lower kept to a minimum. I did use a brown- my finished Wessex on it.
surfaces and everything was then sealed green filter to begin with, just to disrupt the
with Mr. Color Gloss Clear and the model monotony of the paint, followed by different I really enjoyed building my first ever
was ready for decals. After some Ammo panel line washes. After a final helicopter and it certainly won’t be the last
researching I decided not to use kit decals semigloss varnish, and attaching all the one. Although it did test my modelling skills
(it’s been noted the markings appear small parts, it was finally done. every now and then I enjoy a challenge in
small), so Xtradecals X48111 sheet came As with all my models, a simple base was our hobby. I would certainly build another
in handy. Perfectly printed and in register, built using balsa wood, some styrofoam version of the Italeri Wessex, an enjoyable
they settled down nicely with a little help of and printed concrete weathered with project I’d recommend.
microset/sol combination. It is a shame as pigments. I also decided to make a fire
there aren’t any stencils included, so I had extinguisher on a trolley from scratch using

Xtradecals provide the main markings while I had to rely on

the kit markings for stenciling which is a touch oversized.

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References and materials used:

Books: Paints:
4+ Publications No.08 Westland Wessex GSi H332, H330, C181, C46,
Acessories: Vallejo paints (various shades)
Eduard 48754 exterior Washes:
Eduard 49622 interior AK045, Ammo1615, 1612,1619
Eduard EX370 masks
Xtradecal X48111
Scalewarship Wessex blade fold detail set

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new releases

Revell 1:72 Halifax B Mk.III

It is great to see Revell follow up on their previous Halifax kit with the aircraft sit too high ? The bombay is partially detailed and can
this new version powered by the Bristol Hercules radial engines be modelled open of closed and comes with a bomb load too.
and as you therefore expect large parts of the kit are common to The glazing parts are carried over from the previous kit and you
the original kit. Surface detail is excellent with fine panel lines that have a choice of nose for MkIII and MKIV with the Z type nose
are in keeping with the scale. There is some minor sinkage around fairing. The gun turrets are quite basic with not much internal
the cockpit caused by internal details but it is very minor. A detail although the guns are very well handled and finely moulded.
remarkably complete interior is supplied with moulded main spars The kit comes with a choice of two schemes, one of which is
forming the fuselage floor for maximum strength when fitting the featured on the box art. The compact decal sheet features some
wings. The level of internal detail is certainly good inough to be very fine printing for the stencils but the decals supplied for the
built from the box considering what will be visible through the instrument panels are fairly simplified. Overall this is a really nice
glazing but moulded on seatbelts cry out to be replaced. The new rendition of the Halifax and certainly the best option in this scale.
engines are again well handled with two piece cylinders and a Some limited detailing work may be required but the excellent
level of detail that is better than you might expect for this scale. surface detail make this a winner. Revell model kits are available
Undercarriage offers a choice of main struts to allow you to build from all good toy and model retailers. For details visit
a Mk.III or Mk.V but it does look like the height of the www.revell.de/en
undercarriage is modelled in its unloaded configuration making
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Wingnut Wings 1:32 Bristol F.2b Fighter (Post War)

I think I am correct when I say that the Bristol Fighter was one the have to fold after annealing, (a clever design solution) and parts
first four kits to be released by Wingnut Wings back in 2008 and it for the gun scarff ring. If you want to add the internal bracing
makes a welcome return now in its post war guise. The wires and control lines there is a diagram in the instructions to
immediate visual change to the aircraft and shown on the box art guide you but as with all the rigging lines required for the kit these
is the silver doped finish which features on three of the marking are not supplied with the kit. The Rolls Royce Falcon engine is fully
schemes in the kit and which seems to suit the aircraft better replicated with great colour photos of the real engine so that there
than its drab wartime colours. Much of the original kit is of course is no excuse for leaving off the separately moulded engine
carried over but there is a big new sprue with the update parts cowlings. As usual the kit comes with a choice of five different
with include a choice of new exhaust manifolds, new engine marking schemes and a massive high quality Cartograf decal
cowlings, instrument panel, rudder and auxiliary radiator, along sheet which fills the box. Along with the three silver dope
with other smaller parts. Wingnut Wings are still the producers of schemes there is also a more traditional scheme for an aircraft
the finest kit instructions in the business with coloured diagrams operating in India in 1923 and a clear doped linen example
used to guide you right through the process supported by great operated by the Irish Free State Air Corps. The decal sheet also
walkaround details from the real aircraft and vintage pictures of provides all the assorted stencils, manufacturer’s logos and
the aircraft in service. The fully detailed cockpit tub design that markings for the bombs, everything that you need in fact.
has become such a feature of these beautiful kits is of course Top marks again for this kit which continues everything which we
included here and there is a photoetched fret which has the love about these superb kits which are always perfectly 49
assorted seat belts, a set of fabric storage pockets which you engineered and presented.
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Italeri 1:32 Mirage IIIc

considering the limitations of the injection moulded kit. A detailed
Here is one that many modellers have been waiting to see and it engine is provided and this can be displayed on a maintenance
is indeed great to see aircraft like the Mirage getting the modern trolley that is also provided in the kit. The engine suffers from the
treatment from the kit manufacturers so well done Italeri! First limitations of trying to mould wires and cables onto a tubular part
impressions are certainly good with some excellent surface detail but if you want to spend time in superdetailing it is a good starting
on the wings and tail fin assembly but as with other Italeri kits this point. Weighted tires are provided although I thought that the
varies across the kit with rather heavier panel lines in parts of the nosewheel tire looked under inflated? Underwing stores include a
main fuselage halves. The fuselage belly panel is another stunning choice of fuel tanks as well as Sidewinder, Matra R530 and JL
piece of moulding that will paint up superbly. Finer cockpit detail 100R pods and there is a guide to the different loading
also looks good with a multi-part seat with good textures and configurations along with some great colour diagrams showing
separate photoetched belts. Certainly a pretty respectable seat the markings for the weapons and pylons. Photoetched details like
straight from the box and the rest of the cockpit tub is also good mirrors are included for the canopy and its great to see a set of
with a three dimensional instrument panel rather than a flat crew ladders provided too! Two big Cartogarf decal sheets provide
photoetch version. Moulded cabling on the cockpit coving and the a generous choice of six different schemes, three camouflaged
panel behind the pilot have moulded on cabling which some may and three in bare metal. As you would expect the decals are
50 want to replace but with some careful painting this should good. superb with some extremely fine printwork for some of the stencil
Its a similar story with the wheel wells which moulded cables and details.
ducts ripe for the aftermarket resin upgrade sets but not bad
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Zvezda 1:48 Petlyakov PE-2

We've been mightily impressed with Zvezda's new-tooled kits of to be a shame to close the fuselage up as the interior detail is very
late and the sleek PE-2 will be most welcomed by Soviet aircraft comprehensive and beautifully done with fully detailed defensive
fans. A flimsy printed sleeve covers a stout corrugated carton MGs, bomb payload and bay. Landing gear and wheel well have
which is reassuring if you mail-order kits, believe us, you wouldn't the same levels of detail and the control surfaces are fully posable.
want any of these parts damaged- Zvezda have turned out a real A small detail, but testament to the effort that has gone into the
stunner here! The first of the ten sprues we lifted from the box are design of this kit, are the quality multi-part crew figures which
the upper and lower wings featuring some of the best surface come with optional heads wearing goggles should you choose the
detail you're likely to see, this extended to the rest of the parts on in flight display (stand is available separately). Zvezda have had
inspection, some beautiful sharp and fine moulding which is every criticism in the past for the quality of their clear parts and decals,
bit as good as the bigger kit manufacturers. It's not only the detail we're pleased to say the clear parts are excellent with sharp frame
and moulding finesse that impress with this kit, it's the depth of detail and the decals are better than we've seen in the past. If this
which Zvezda have gone to with full interior and engine detail kit builds as good as it looks it's set to be a classic, even if you
offering the option of leaving the engine(s) un-cowled or even paid twice the asking price it would still be good value…best pick 51
removed as detailed bulkheads and plumbing is included. It's going up a couple then…
AIR 63 Dec-Jan 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 10/11/2015 11:20 Page 52

As if the warm welcome to the IPMS Greek 52+,52M, 30 and Block 50 aircraft are
Nationals in Athens wasn't enough the featured and helpfully captioned with
Editor left with some splendid samples handy side-by-side images of the subtle
F-16 Fighting Falcon from Greek publisher Eagle Aviation. The differences with fantastic references of
first up is this superb out-and-out surface finishes for the modeller to try and
Viper Under The Skin
modelling reference photo book dedicated replicate. The coverage of the ordnance
Ioannis Lekkas and Ilias Gkonis to the latest F-16s operated by the HAF. and avionics is stunning and will lend itself
Published by Eagle Aviation You would be seriously hard pushed to perfectly to one of the 1:32 F-16s and the
Softback, 100 pages create a more comprehensive and Hellenic schemes may not be the most
ISBN 978-618-81376-4-6 compact reference with every element of obvious choices for many modellers but
the aircraft covered with high quality some of the grubby schemes here are
photography at suitable sizes to carry out guaranteed to get you excited. An absolute
endless amounts of detailing. Block must for the F-16 enthusiast.

Fighter Weapons School, HAF

Supreme Training Unit 1975 - The beautifully presented visual book featured. Text throughout (duel language) is
2015 celebrates forty years of the Hellenic Air quite brief but for modellers the images are
Force training and the aircraft which have certainly the main focus, a nice touch is
Ioannis K. Lekkas
served from 1975. There's some fantastic some original advertising features from
Published by Eagle Aviation images of the more modern aircraft in flight Dassault, Lockheed Martin and other
Hardback, 115 pages, Greek / (including F-16s and Phantoms) and great equipment suppliers. This book is sure to
52 English text studies of the crews. From earlier archives be popular with HAF fans and any
ISBN 978 618 81376 3 9 are F-5As, Mirage and F-7 and a good enthusiast of high quality aviation
selection of combat and rescue helicopters photography.
AIR 63 Dec-Jan 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 10/11/2015 11:20 Page 53

RB Productions
Wingnut Wings kits have been a saviour to Great War aircraft 1:32 Yokosuka MXY-7 Ohka Type 22
modellers for a good few years now, updates and detail sets have This is a beautiful little kit of the Japanese piloted bomb which
been quite limited (no doubt due to the kits being just so good!). measures in at around 200mm in 1:32. The majority of the kit is
RB Productions have produced some lovely quality and very very finely cast in resin which looks like it will prove a simple
worthy aftermarket parts for the 1:32 kits, this may well be the project. The two fuselage halves align perfectly and include
most challenging and spectacular to date. RB-32032 is a set of cockpit wall detail with a comprehensive photoetch fret forming
skeleton wings and tail for the Eindecker E.II, E.III and E.IV entirely the majority of the cockpit with a set of RB's seat harnesses
from photoetch! This will certainly sort the men from the boys and included. The canopy is moulded in clear resin and vac-formed
test your soldering skills to the maximum, this would make a clear styrene. our sample being nice and clean. A fully detailed
stunning display piece although you might be relieved at some ground trolly and boost rocket solves any display problems with
point that you're not working on a bi-plane! Instructions and great potential for a richly detailed vignette. Decals match the
reference are supplied as downloads. quality of the rest of the kit although are very minimal. Superb
quality throughout, go to www.radub.com and
www.radubstore.com for more details and secure shopping.

AMMO of Mig Jimenez Paint Sets

More metallics, this time the old favourite Alclad II which will be provide the best base coat. www.migjiminez.com and
widely available re-packaged by the AMMO brand in the familiar www.alclad2.com have more details. Number 11 in AMMO's Air
30ml bottles and familiar colours of Aluminium, Duraluminium, Weathering Sets provides a handy compilation of three panel line
Dark Aluminium, Chrome and Jet Exhaust. An important part of the washes for desert camo aircraft. These ready to use washes are
metal finishing (and any painting it has to be said) is the base and constant and convenient to use. Visit www.migjiminez.com for the 53
primer finish, Black Microfiller is available in the same 30ml jars to full range of finishing products.
AIR 63 Dec-Jan 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 10/11/2015 12:32 Page 54

DEF Model 1:32 F-4 Phantom Upgrades

An aftermarket producer from Korea, DEF, are held in very high decals to suit. For the same kit is DS32007 consisting of a full set
regard by armour modellers for their superbly designed and cast of sagged / weighted wheels which are beautifully detailed with
resin detailing and conversion sets. Turning their skills to aircraft the bonus of ready-cut painting masks. DEF can be found at
now, namely the Revell 1:32 Phantom II F-4 E/F is set DS32008 of www.defmodel.com which has a list of Worldwide distributors.
FOD covers (in resin) and a dozen RBF tags in photoetch including

AK Interactive
AK's Extreme Metal range is expanding at a pace, these ultra-fine Sticking with metallics we have a new book devoted to working
pigment effects spray beautifully with some stunning results. with them. The book starts by looking at the paint science behind
AK472 Gold ,AK474 Bronze, AK476 Steel, Ak483 Gun Metal, AK the colours, the different brands and types of paint on the market
488 Matt Aluminium, AK 478 White Aluminium, AK669 Titanium, and a look at the different types of metal finishes. There are then a
AK670 Stainless Steel, AK671 Smoke, AK672 Pale Brass and AK series of different modelling projects using different products to get
674 Metallic Purple. Another medium to achieve realistic metallic different effects with step by step photos. These cover various
effects are AK's 'True Metal' wax / pastes which are applied from modelling subjects with several aircraft examples as well as cars
the tube and buffed to the desired effect, blue and purple are two and Sci-fi subjects. This is a really useful guide and ideal for the
54 new colours which could work well on jet exhausts.www.ak- metallic novice or the experienced user looking to improve or
interactive.com diversify. The fact that is deals with all brands of paints is also very
AIR 63 Dec-Jan 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 10/11/2015 12:32 Page 55

Spitfire in my Workshop The subject of this large and impressive Mk.I). The author and modeller has applied
book steps away from our usual modelling a very light and humorous approach to the
By David Glen format of kit based modelling and into the text sharing his ups and downs of such a
Published by Brown and Brown realms of model engineering. Nevertheless, massive undertaking to create a rivet-by-
Books anyone with an interest in scale miniatures rivet accurate miniature, the depth of
Hardback, 191 pages cannot fail to be impressed by this research offers any modeller of the Spitfire
ISBN 9780952690726 staggering replica 1:5 Spitfire. Eleven years some superb reference with both in-
of work have gone into this completely progress images and original drawings. This
www.brownandbrown.co.uk scratch-built masterpiece which sits proudly is a real 'Coffee Table' book which any
www.spitfireinmyworkshop.net in a glass case at the RAF museum for all to aircraft modeller will be hugely impressed
see. The book is packed with superb by and a real wealth of information for
images of the finished model, we pity the Spitfire fans with the bonus of being able to
photographer shooting all of that polished view the iconic model at RAF Hendon. Our
bare metal (which is in fact printing litho thanks to the publishers for the sample
plate applied panel by panel as the actual copy.






48290 48289 72114

Scale Aircraft Conversions

We have plenty more replacement white metal undercarriage legs Guardian. In 1:72 scale 72110 is for the Airfix Boulton Paul Defiant,
from Scale Aircraft Conversions and starting with 1:32 we have 72111 is for the Academy F-8E Crusader, 72113 is for the Revell
32099 for the new Tamiya De Havilland Mosquito, 32100 for the C-54 Skymaster and 72114 to fit the Airfix Bristol Beaufighter.
Wingnut Wings Albatross D.V/Va and 32101 for the Kitty Hawk P- www.scaleaircraftconverions.com for details of these and the rest
39 Airacobra. In 1:48 there are two sets, 48289 for the F-86D/K of the extensive SAC range. 55
Sabre from Special Hobby and 48290 for the Special Hobby AF-2
AIR 63 Dec-Jan 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 09/11/2015 17:54 Page 56


The Editor giving a talk at the show and

trying to look like he knows what he is
talking about.

AIR 63 Dec-Jan 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 09/11/2015 17:54 Page 57

The Editor had the great pleasure of attending the Greek IPMS
National competition held in Athens at the beginning of October.
It was held in a former aircraft hanger designed to
accommodate a Boeing 747, making it the biggest venue I have
ever seen! It was a real pleasure to meet so many enthusiastic
and friendly modellers and to be able to study the World class
models displayed over the weekend. This small selection of
images will I hope give an indication of the superbly high
standard of work on the tables. My thanks to all the IPMS Hellas
team for the wonderfully warm hospitality and great weekend!

AIR 63 Dec-Jan 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 10/11/2015 10:56 Page 58

Tiger II
Modelled and described by Luc Van den Ende


AIR 63 Dec-Jan 2015_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 10/11/2015 10:56 Page 59

The story of this Tiger II started several years ago, when my good friend Luc Janssen
challenged me to build a 1:32 scale model for once instead of yet another in my preferred
1:48 scale. He suggested “a couple of those beautiful aggressor F-5Es Tiger II”, using the
Twobobs 32-004 decal sheet. I chose the #05 Blue/Grey Saints, Luc choosing one of the
Desert Cats. Both aircraft served in VFC-13 ‘Fighting Saints’. In the end, Luc lost interest but I
decided to soldier on.
At first considerable time was spent researching my topic in my and my friends’ libraries and
scouring the web. This made me realize just how inaccurate Hasegawa’s vintage model really
is, quite unacceptable for this large scale. On the other hand it is the only F-5E in 1:32 scale. I
decided to upgrade the kit to today’s standards, knowing this would mean a great deal of
scratch-built items and a lot of additional research. But I was determined to transform this kit
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into a masterpiece. kit parts were however not acceptable to (www.primeportal.net). Bill Spindle shared
Two of the most noticeable problems with me. I bought the aftermarket set from his report on F-5E #13 BuNo 74-1558
the Hasegawa kit are the intake and the Black Box but in the end I decided to restored by the OV-10 Bronco Association.
exhaust designs. In fact there were no simply use the heavy cockpit tub as a Walk Arounds like this are a modeller’s
intakes or exhaust pipes to speak of... I weight to keep the model on its nose dream. Needless to say, I spent a lot of
decided to go the hard way, instead of wheel. I scratch-built a complete ejection effort in realizing in plastic some of the
simply covering-up both problem areas. I seat as well as the complex mechanism highly detailed shots found on Prime Portal.
carved a mould from beech wood to behind it to operate the canopy. In the F- The next items to receive the scratchbuild
vacuform two halves for each intake. Today 5E this device is quite similar to the one treatment were
I clearly remember the trouble I had used in the Northrop T-38 Talon. There is the main and
getting a proper fit between the kit’s no better guide than Daco’s ‘Uncovering nose
fuselage halves. After that, creating the Series’ on the topic, photographed by Willy landing
first stage fan blades was relatively easy! Peeters. Another important source for gears,
Eye-catchers in this large scale are of detailed photographs proved to be the complete with
course the cockpit and ejection seat. The Prime Portal site on the web wells and doors. In

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front of the main landing gear are two invisible undersides on a model airplane is
speed brakes, which also needed close really only just for fun.
attention. I used Plastruct rod as a base for It almost proved a never-ending story, as I
the landing gear struts and built them as decided the following kit parts would never
accurately as possible, constantly referring be used on my F-5E Tiger. In view of the
to the photographs. For the oleos I used work already accomplished, Hasegawa’s
polished stainless steel, as I always do representation of the arrestor hook, the
because of the ultra realistic look of this centerline pylon, the wingtip missile
material. The wheel well doors and speed rails and the large hinge under the
brakes were made from styrene plastic flaps is just not acceptable, so
card. Copper wire of various thicknesses more work had to be spent on
was used to simulate hydraulic lines to those items. Accuracy and
complete the wheel wells. As everybody refinement were needed to
knows, detailing to this extent those replace all these kit parts.

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Engraving the panel lines was no big deal scratchbuilt from styrene tube using a of a solid bar. After determining the
and to simulate the many rivets I small lathe. Additional parts to complete dimensions from photographs I build up
fabricated a couple of templates from my model were also scratch-built. Photos this type of chocks with pieces of styrene.
brass strip. Ordinary tape fixated these taken at NAS Fallon showed safety The angles of each tiny rhomboid were
templates on the model while I ticked off containers for fuel draining underneath rounded off between sharp pointed
the rivets using a 0.3 mm drill. Simply more than one parked F-5E. I made this tweezers with a very fine stick of sanding
perforating the tape was an easy method tiny item from styrene and a lot of paper and glued in the right pattern on top
to distinguish between already and not yet patience. Very fine capillary tubes proved of the wheel chocks. A rope connected the
done. The results of this job will show to full very useful to connect the fuel draining chocks after painting.
advantage after painting and weathering. pipes to the red safety container. The left wingtip rail was decorated with a
The rivets on the exhaust were added one I also noticed from pictures that the NWC- bright coloured Air Combat Manoeuvring
by one with a 0.3 mm diameter 4 polyurethane wheel chocks were often in (ACMI) Pod. This instrument is used to
homemade Punch & Die. Several layers of the vicinity of an F-5E aircraft operating monitor air combat training for later
Alclad II were airbrushed on the tail pipes from land bases, the very same as used analysis and to provide a detailed report
and after fuselage to simulate the various on USS aircraft carriers but with the for crew and instructors on performances
tones of heated metal. The exhausts were chocks interconnected by a rope instead during air combat. Plastruct rod was used

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for its construction, while hypodermic

needles simulated the Air Data Sensor
Antenna. Thanks to the tiny hangers, made
from styrene, no glue was needed to
connect the pod to the rail.
The kit’s four-piece boarding ladder is not
really satisfying, so a new one was
constructed using brass rod and plate.
Instead of the usual superglue a simple
soldering iron was used for a much
stronger connection.
Painting my model, I used Model
Master enamels, following the
instructions of the Twobobs
decals. Let’s hope Bob and
Teri Sanchez did their

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homework... Because I am not a hero with panel lines were defined with a very diluted Airport, Minnesota.
the airbrush and really had no intention to medium grey mixture of oils. I also used
mess up the whole project at this stage, I different shades of pastels as finishing Without the goodwill of some people this
used masks for the camouflage pattern. touch, a hint from my friend Luc Janssen. model could never be what is it now.
After enlarging the drawings of the Thank you, Bill Spindle and Luc Colin, for
Twobobs instructions to 1:32, I glued each Building this old (and very basic) sharing your excellent Walk Arounds. They
pattern on stiff aluminium sheet. These Hasegawa kit brought about a lot of were very useful. Thanks Twobobs for
patterns could easily be attached to the frustrations and proved to be a real test of sending additional photographs. Thanks
model, millimeters from the surface, to patience, although in the end it was very Thomas Twedt from NAS Fallon for
create a realistic soft line between the enjoyable and awakened a real love for the providing information on colours for the
different tones. Then came a coat of gloss beautiful shapes of the Northrop F-5E Tiger intakes and landing gears. Thanks Danny
varnish to prepare for decaling. II. Researching on the web, I found a link to Coremans and Peter Gordts for your help
Note the small rasters just in front of the the final destination of this particular and assistance. And finally, thanks Luc
air intakes. These were created by my aircraft. #05 was saved from the scrap Janssen, good friend from the early days,
good friend Danny Coremans on his yard and was restored for display in the always ready to help with constructive
computer and printed on decal film. All American Air Wing Museum, Blaine ideas and discussions.

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