FedEx Ground Body Service Manual

Body
Service
Manual
FedEx Ground
Read First: Top Tips on Using This On-line Manual
Browse pages with Bookmarks (hyperlinks)
A Bookmark is a hyperlink (to Table of Contents, Index, and Menu entries) appearing at the
left of the screen. From any page in a document, you can use Bookmarks to jump to
any section heading in the same document.
To jump to a topic by using its Bookmark, point to the Bookmark name, and when the arrow
becomes a pointing hand, click on the name. (If a + sign appears to the left of the Bookmark,
click the + sign to show subordinate Bookmarks.)
Use the Zoom and Fit tools for magnification of page sections
Select the Zoom tool. (When the Hand tool is selected, you can temporarily change to the
Zoom tool by holding down the Ctrl key and the space bar at the same time.) Click and drag
to draw a rectangle around the area you want to magnify.
To return to an overview, you can click on one of the following buttons:
The Fit Page button scales the entire page to display within the main window.
The Fit Width button scales the page width to display within the main window.
Use the Text tool for copying selected text into other applications
You can select text, copy it to the Clipboard, and paste it into another application. By pasting parts descrip-
tions and numbers into your email application, you can order parts much faster than through phoning
or faxing. To select text and copy it to the Clipboard:
1. Click the Text Selection tool.
2. Click and drag over the text you want to select. When you release the mouse button, the se-
lected text stays highlighted.
3. Hold down the Ctrl key and press C on the keyboard to copy the selected text to the Clipboard.
Find parts or procedures with Find tool
Within a manual, use the Find tool to find a fragment of a word, a complete word, or multiple words in
the active document. To find a word:
1. Click the Find tool.
2. In the Find What text box, enter the text to be found and click Find. When the program finds
the text, the Find dialog box closes, and the page containing the text is displayed with the text high-
lighted.
3. To find the next occurrence of the word, press F3.
2 FedEx Ground Body Service Manual

Part Number: 03102236
Revision Control
Revision Print Date
Rev. A March 2001
As updates are released, revisions of this manual will be available in Adobe Acrobat PDF format at
www.utilimaster.com/fedexupd. Check that page for the latest information.
Important Notices
©2001, Utilimaster.®
Printed in U.S.A.
Title: FedEx Ground Body Service Manual
Utilimaster Corporation attempts to provide information that is accurate, complete, and useful. All information
contained in this manual is based on the latest product information available at the time of publication. However,
because of the Utilimaster policy of continual product improvement, Utilimaster reserves the right to amend the
information in this document at any time without prior notice. Should you find inadequacies in the text, please
send your comments to the following address:
Utilimaster
Attn: Designer of Technical Publications
65906 State Road 19, P.O. Box 585
Wakarusa, Indiana, 465730585 U.S.A.
2198624561, FAX 2198623961
This material is confidential and the property of Utilimaster. It is shared with your company for the sole purpose
of helping you with the operation of the described equipment. The information contained in this document is
subject to change without notice.
Utilimaster makes no warranty of any kind with regard to this material, including, but not limited to, the implied
warranties of merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose. Utilimaster shall not be liable for errors
contained herein or for incidental or consequential damages in connection with the furnishing, performance, or
use of this material.
Utilimaster expressly disclaims all responsibility and liability for the installation, use, performance, maintenance,
and support of third-party products. Customers are advised to make their independent evaluation of such
products.
No part of this document may be photocopied, reproduced, or translated to another language without the prior
written consent of Utilimaster.
Utilimaster® is a registered trademark of Utilimaster Corporation. All other product names in this manual are
trademarks, registered trademarks, or service marks of their respective owners.
Browse the web site www.utilimaster.com for more information about Utilimaster and its products.
FedEx Ground Body Service Manual 3

Contents
Revision Control......................................................................................................................... 3
Important Notices ....................................................................................................................... 3
Introduction ................................................................................................................................. 7
Exterior Overview ........................................................................................................................ 7
VIN and Utilimaster Body Serial Number ................................................................................... 8
Ordering Parts ............................................................................................................................ 9
Warranty ..................................................................................................................................... 9
Filing Warranty Claims ............................................................................................................. 10
Safety Considerations .............................................................................................................. 11
Towing and Emergency Repairs ............................................................................................... 12
Reporting Safety Defects (U.S. Only) ....................................................................................... 12
Service Information .................................................................................................................. 13
1.0 Maintenance Checklist.................................................................................................. 13
1.1 Pre-Trip Inspection (daily) .................................................................................................................... 13
1.2 Routine Body Maintenance (every three to four months) ...................................................................... 13
2.0 Tools and Fasteners...................................................................................................... 16
2.1 Common Tools .................................................................................................................................... 16
2.2 Removal and Replacement of Fasteners ............................................................................................. 17
2.3 Lengths of Buck Rivets ....................................................................................................................... 20
2.4 Torque Values ..................................................................................................................................... 21
2.5 Body Sealants ..................................................................................................................................... 22
3.0 Windows ........................................................................................................................ 23
3.1 Windshield and Quarter-Windows ........................................................................................................ 23
3.2 Sliding Side Door Windows .................................................................................................................. 30
4.0 Wiper/Washer System .................................................................................................. 33
4.1 Wiper System Troubleshooting Procedure ........................................................................................... 34
4.2 Wiper Motor ......................................................................................................................................... 36

4.3 Pivot and Link Assembly ..................................................................................................................... 38
4.4 Wiper Blade ........................................................................................................................................ 40
4.5 Wiper Arm ........................................................................................................................................... 40
4.6 Pivot Assembly ................................................................................................................................... 42
4.7 Washer Bottle ..................................................................................................................................... 43
5.0 Doors ............................................................................................................................ 44
5.1 Keys .................................................................................................................................................... 44
5.2 Vehicle Access Control System (VACS) .............................................................................................. 44
5.3 Rear Roll-Up Door ................................................................................................................................ 45
5.4 Side Sliding Door ................................................................................................................................. 55
5.5 Bulkhead Door .................................................................................................................................... 64
6.0 Hood ............................................................................................................................. 65
6.1 Hood Repair ........................................................................................................................................ 65
6.2 Gas Spring .......................................................................................................................................... 66
6.3 Hood Removal and Replacement ......................................................................................................... 66
7.0 Seats and Seat Belts ..................................................................................................... 69
7.1 Drivers Pedestal ................................................................................................................................. 69
7.2 Drivers Seat ........................................................................................................................................ 69
7.3 Seat Belt Maintenance ........................................................................................................................ 72
7.4 Drivers Seat Belt ................................................................................................................................. 74
7.5 Jump Seat ........................................................................................................................................... 75
7.6 Jump Seat Belts ................................................................................................................................. 78
8.0 Heating System ............................................................................................................ 80
8.1 Blower Motor ........................................................................................................................................ 81
8.2 Heater Resistor ................................................................................................................................... 81
9.0 Lights and Wiring ..........................................................................................................82
9.1 Wiring ................................................................................................................................................. 82
9.2 Battery ................................................................................................................................................ 82
9.3 Headlight Replacement and Adjustment .............................................................................................. 83
9.4 Forward Turn Signal Light .................................................................................................................... 84
9.5 Front Side Marker Light ....................................................................................................................... 85
9.6 Clearance Lights (Rear, Side, and Front) ............................................................................................. 85
9.7 Taillights (Brake, Back-up, Hazard, and Turn) ..................................................................................... 86
9.8 License Plate Light .............................................................................................................................. 86
9.9 Dome (Cab) Light ................................................................................................................................ 86
9.10 Cargo Lights ...................................................................................................................................... 87
9.11 Cargo Area Light Switch ..................................................................................................................... 88
9.12 Dash Switch (Cargo, Dome) ............................................................................................................... 88

10.0 Miscellaneous Repairs ............................................................................................... 89
10.1 Grab Handle ...................................................................................................................................... 89
10.2 Side Vent .......................................................................................................................................... 89
10.3 Sun Visor .......................................................................................................................................... 90
10.4 Mirrors ............................................................................................................................................... 91
10.5 Rear Kazoo Drain Valves ................................................................................................................... 92
10.6 Dash Panel ........................................................................................................................................ 93
11.0 Body Repairs .............................................................................................................. 96
11.1 Roof Cap ........................................................................................................................................... 97
11.2 Corner Castings ................................................................................................................................ 102
11.3 Exterior Roof Panel ........................................................................................................................... 102
11.4 A-post ............................................................................................................................................... 105
11.5 Center Post ...................................................................................................................................... 105
11.6 Quarter Panel ................................................................................................................................... 106
11.7 Rear Bumper .................................................................................................................................... 107
Glossary of Terms .................................................................................................................. 108
Index ...................................................................................................................................... 110

Introduction
This manual lists service and maintenance procedures for FedEx Ground Walk-in
Van bodies. It contains drawings and procedures to aid in servicing the vehicle. This
manual covers only those assemblies manufactured by or installed by Utilimaster®
Corporation. Items such as chassis and drive train components or certain interior
furnishings are covered by separate manufacturer-supplied information.
All information, specifications, and illustrations contained in this manual are based on
the latest product information available at the time of publication. Utilimaster reserves
the right to amend the information in this document at any time without prior notice.
See the FedEx Ground Body Parts Manual (P/N 03102305) for more information about ordering replace-
ment parts.
Exterior Overview
Identification Clearance Identification Rear Cargo Door
Lights Lights Lights
265752
265752
Side
Mirrors Brake/Tail
Light
Hazard/Turn/
Tail Lights
Headlights Hood Backup Lights

Turn Signal
VACS
Rear
Sensor
Bumper
Side Marker Light
265752 Cab Vent
VACS
Sensor
Reflector
US DOT 265752 Side Marker

Light
Reflector Fuel Fill Port

VIN and Utilimaster Body Serial Number
You will need the VIN or Utilimaster Body Serial Number to make warranty
claims or order parts.
The chassis Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is the legal identifier for
this vehicle and is the number recorded in the license plate registration. The
VIN appears on a small metal plate beside the dash on the drivers side. You
can read the VIN if you look through the windshield or quarter-panel window.
The number is also recorded on the Federal Certification Label.
The Utilimaster Unit (or Body) Serial Number is recorded on the Federal Certification Label. This label is a
plastic decal (about 11 inches long and 2 inches high) that contains a variety of manufacturing information
(including the VIN). This label is near the top of the door frame between the drivers sliding window and the
quarter-panel window.
Federal Certification Label

Ordering Parts
To order parts for this vehicle, gather the following information:
· Year and Model of Vehicle (200_ FedEx Ground).
· Chassis VIN, Utilimaster Body Serial Number, or Asset Number (see
previous page).
· Complete shipping address.
· Preferred method of shipping.
· Method of payment.*
· Complete description of all the parts necessary (see the FedEx Ground
Body Parts Manual, P/N 03102305).
Then contact Utilimaster Customer Service by one of the following methods:
· Call 8002377806 (or 2198623219) and ask for the Parts Department.
· Fax your order with the above information to 2198627637.
· Email your order with the above information to FGparts@Utilimaster.com.
· You may also send the order via mail or express service to the following address:
Utilimaster
Attn: Parts Department
65528 State Road 19
P.O. Box 585
Wakarusa, IN 465730585
U.S.A.
*Customer Service prefers payment by Visa, MasterCard, Discover, or American Express credit cards. Pur-
chase Orders are also accepted from customers with established open accounts or with prior approval.
To return parts for credit, call the Customer Service Department for prior authorization. All returns must be
shipped prepaid freight. A restocking fee will be charged to all returns. Special-order parts are not returnable.
Warranty
The warranty is issued to the original purchaser and is neither transferable to
nor enforceable by any other person. Utilimaster Corporation warrants that
the body shall be free from defects in factory materials and workmanship
made or supplied by Utilimaster under normal use and service, in accordance
with and for the specified period.
The warranty begins on the in-service date. The chassis, engine, tires, battery,
and drive train are warranted separately by the manufacturers of those
components.

Filing Warranty Claims
If a problem on the Utilimaster body is caused by a defect in materials or workmanship, it will be covered by
our Limited Warranty Policy. (Chassis, engine, tires, battery, and drive train failures are covered by the indi-
vidual manufacturers.
Claims must meet the requirements listed below. Failure to meet these requirements may result in a denied or
delayed claim.
Complete a repair order with the following information:
· Owners and/or service facilitys name.
· Service center representatives signature.
· Chassis VIN or Utilimaster Body Serial Number or Asset Number. (See page 8.)
· Date vehicle was repaired.
· Mileage at time of failure.
· Itemized description of the problem, including:
Complaint
Cause of failure (if known)
Correction (describe in detail)
· Service center labor rate and total time of repair.
· Total claim amount, including cost of parts, labor, miscellaneous charges, and sales tax (if
applicable).
· Your claim or repair order number.
Note: Your claim or repair order number is the number used to match Utilimaster payment
with the work done. It will be noted on your payment.
· Utilimaster authorization number (for repairs costing over $500).
The claim can be mailed, faxed, emailed, or performed on-line on our web site (assuming all required
information is included).
· Warranty claims should be mailed to:
Utilimaster
Attn: Warranty Department
65528 State Road 19
P.O. Box 585
Wakarusa, IN 46573-0585
· Alternately, you can fax your claim (if no photographs are involved) with the above information to 219-
862-7637. (The resolution of the received copies must be acceptable, or you will be asked to mail your
hard copies.)
· Or you can email your claim with the above information to CustSvc@Utilimaster.com.
· You can also fill out the on-line warranty claim form on the Utilimaster web site
www.utilimaster.com.
Other claim requirements:

· Any repairs over $500.00 or for structural warranty require prior authorization from Utilimaster,
and that number must appear on the repair order.
· Any claim that is not legible and complete will be returned for completion.

· All paint claims require pictures, two estimates, and prior authorization.
· Shipping damage claims also require pictures, two estimates, and prior authorization. The damage
must also be noted on the Delivery Acceptance form. This form requires the signature of the carrier
driver.
· Sublet work must have the sublet repair order attached to the service facilitys repair order that is being
submitted.
· Claims must be submitted within 30 days after the repair is completed.
If the return of a failed part is requested, contact a Utilimaster warranty representative for a return goods
authorization (RGA). Please reference that number with the returned part and enclose a copy of the repair
order. Shipping charges should be entered on the same repair order that is submitted for warranty payment.
COD charges for a returned parts will not be accepted, and the part will be returned.
Chassis, engine, tires, and battery failures are covered by the individual manufacturers.
Claims are paid semimonthly. Utilimaster generally does not pay sales tax on claims (dependent on state law).
If you do not have our tax exemption number on file, please call 800-528-3454 or 219-862-4561 and ask for
the accounting department to obtain the number.
Safety Considerations
As you read through the procedures, you will come across NOTES, CAUTIONS, and
WARNINGS. Each one is there for a specific purpose. NOTES give you added
information that will help you to complete a particular procedure. CAUTIONS are
given to prevent you from making an error that could damage the vehicle. WARNINGS
remind you to be especially careful in those areas where carelessness can cause personal
injury.
The following list contains some general WARNINGS that you should follow when you work on a vehicle.
· Always wear safety glasses for eye protection.
· Use safety stands whenever a procedure requires you to be under the vehicle.
· Be sure that the ignition switch is always in the OFF position, unless otherwise required by the proce-
dure.
· Set the parking brake when working on the vehicle and if the vehicle has an automatic transmission, put
the transmission in PARK .
· Operate the engine only in a well-ventilated area to avoid the danger of carbon monoxide.
· Keep yourself and your clothing away from moving parts when the engine is running, especially the fan
and belts.
· To prevent serious burns, avoid contact with hot metal parts such as the radiator, exhaust manifold, tail
pipe, catalytic converter, and muffler.
· Do not smoke while working on the vehicle.

· To avoid injury, always remove rings, watches, loose hanging jewelry, and loose clothing before begin-
ning to work on a vehicle. Tie long hair securely behind your head.
· Even though the ignition is in the OFF position, electric radiator fan can start to operate at any time by
an increase in under-hood temperatures. Make sure the radiator fan is completely disconnected when
working under the hood.
Reporting Safety Defects (U.S. Only)

If you believe that your vehicle has a defect that could cause a crash, or could cause injury or death, you should
immediately inform the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) in addition to notifying Utili-
master.
If NHTSA receives similar complaints, it may open an investigation, and if it finds that a safety defect exists in a
group of vehicles, it may order a recall and remedy campaign. However, NHTSA cannot become involved in
individual problems between you, your dealer, or Utilimaster.
To contact NHTSA, you may either call the Auto Safety Hotline toll-free at 1-800-424-9393; in the Washing-
ton, D.C., area call 202-366-0123 or write to:
NHTSA
U.S. Department of Transportation
400 Seventh Street
Washington, DC 20590
You can also obtain other information about motor vehicle safety from the Hotline.
Towing and Emergency Repairs

See the Chassis Operators Manual for more complete information on
towing procedures.
Utilimaster recommends the vehicle be unloaded before towing to reduce
stress on the chassis.

Service Information
To prevent damage to the body finish, avoid using harsh
cleaning solutions or high pressure wash systems when clean-
ing the vehicle. Do not use a high-pressure wash during the
1.0 Maintenance Checklist

See the list below for basic inspection and maintenance items to check. Unless
another time frame is stated, the maintenance items generally should be checked
every three to four months. Check the relevant section of the manual for details.
1.1 Pre-Trip Inspection (daily)

The driver should perform the following checks each day:
q Check washer fluid level.
q Adjust the drivers seat position.
q Adjust all mirrors.
q Check operation of all exterior and interior lights.
q Check ease and operation of heater and defroster controls.
q Check dash switches and accessories for proper operation.
q Check operation of doors for ease of use.
1.2 Routine Body Maintenance (every three to four months)

The service mechanic should do the above pre-trip inspection to verify all elements in the drivers check before
performing the following body maintenance checks:
1.2.1 Seats and Belts
q Check tightness of seat belt and pedestal bolts.
q Check seat belt for proper operation and signs of fraying or wear.
1.2.2 Interior Driver Conveniences
q Check heating system for operation and ease of use.
q Check all switches for operation.
q Check cab fan for operation and tightness of mounting.
1.2.3 Windshield Washer and Wipers
q Check tightness of the wiper linkage connections.
q Check wiper operation.
q Check washer operation and spray pattern.
q Check that the blades wipe clean and are streak-free.
1.2.4 Hood
q Check release latches for alignment and excessive wear.
q Check hood guides for alignment and excessive wear.
q Check hood struts and hood prop rod for proper operation.

1.2.5 Bumpers
q Check bolts on the bumper brackets for tight- FRONT
ness.
q Check for damaged or bent components.
1.2.6 Other Body Parts
q Check for loose or missing fasteners underneath
the chassis, particularly the body mounting bolts
on the outside of the riser on either side of the
chassis rails, the bolts on the crossmember plate Look for loose or missing
and the Huck rivets on the drop floor bracket. Huck rivets on the drop floor bracket.
(See Illustrations 11 and 12.)

Illustration 11 Check Drop Floor Bracket
Check bolts on the crossmember plate.
Check body mounting bolts along risers.
Front
Illustration 12 Check for Loose Bolts on the Chassis
q Check that all reflective tape is securely attached.

q Clean rear threshold drains and drain troughs.
q Check grab handle mounting bolts for tightness.
q Check mirror mounting bolts for tightness.
1.2.7 Doors
Catch
q Check the sliding window and window latch operation. Plate
q Check that doors open easily and close tightly.
q Check interior and exterior handles for tightness.
1/8"
q Check for wear on bulkhead and sliding door catch plates.
At least 1/8 of the Kason latch tongue needs to engage the
catch plate. (See Illustration 13.)
q Check for wear on the Kason latch tongue. At least 1/8 of Latch
the tongue needs to engage the catch plate. (See Illustration Tongue
13.)
q Check operation of locks. Illustration 13 Check the Latch
Tongue and Catch Plate for Wear

q Check condition of the pull-down strap on rear door.
q Check that the rear door is centered in the opening.
q Apply lock antifreeze in the winter.
q Lubricate locks and latches with a lightweight oil. (Utilimaster
recommends Exxon Hydraulic oil type NUTO #68, or equiva-
lent, for the lock cylinders.)
q On VACS-equipped vehicles only: check for wear on the
deadbolt on the rear rollup latch solenoid. Deadbolt must
extend a minimum of 1/2 from track. Grease the deadbolt with
#2 grease every six months under normal conditions, every
three months in hot or dusty conditions. (See Illustration 14.)
Illustration 14 Check Roll-up
NOTE: Do not use grease on the door. Do not get oil on Door Latch Deadbolt for Wear
rubber seals. Wipe up any drips immediately.
q Lubricate rear door with a light oil (Utilimaster P/N 04202540):
Springslube both springs, their entire length to prevent rusting. (See Illustration 115.)
Hinges (center and end)wipe off excess oil.
Roller shaftswipe off excess oil.
Rollers.
Latches.
Lock cylinderwipe off excess oil.
Illustration 15 Places to be Lubricated on a Rear Roll-up Door

2.0 Tools and Fasteners
2.1 Common Tools
Below are tools, including recommended brands and models, commonly used in Walk-in Van repairs:
Phillips and flathead screw driver set
Metric and standard box and open-end wrench set
3/8 drill (Dewalt® DW221 recommended)
1/2 drill (Dewalt® DW231 recommended)
Drill bit set (3/16 or #11 bits commonly used)
Screw gun (Dewalt® DW281 recommended)
Pop riveter (Emhart® PRG 540 recommended as it does both pop rivet and monobolt installation)
Monobolter (Emhart® PRG 540 w/ 1/4 nose assembly (this nose assembly consists of Jaws PRG 540-
44, Jaw Pusher PRG 740-7A, and 1/4 Nose Tip BRN-811)
Buck riveter (Sioux 270 w/ 3/16 Ajax rivet set #1620) and bucking bar
Huck riveter (Huck 229 w/ 1/4 nose assembly 99-1458)
Saber saw (Porter Cable 548)
DVOM (Digital Voltmeter)
Terminal tool kit (Snap-On TT600 recommended)
Locking pliers (VISE-GRIP® recommended, 9 or 10 inches long)
Multigrips or tongue and groove pliers (Any standard model about 9 or 10 inches long)
Needle-nose pliers
Torque wrenches (any quality sets with inlb and ftlb measurements)
Drill stop
Hand punch or an air hammer with a punch attachment
Disk Air sander with 220 grit sandpaper
Tape measure
Fine-pointed marker
Razor knife

2.2 Removal and Replacement of Fasteners
2.2.1 Buck (Small, Solid Brazier-Head) Rivet
Use a #11 (3/16 if #11 is not available) drill bit to drill off the head
of the rivet, starting at the dimple located in the center. Continue to
drill the rivet until the head pops off. Take a punch and knock out the
stems.
NOTE: Brazier-head 3/16 buck rivets of varying lengths Illustration 21 Buck Rivet
are used on most locations on the body.
Use a buck riveter to replace the rivet.
2.2.2 Pop Rivet

Removal
Drill off the head of the rivet using a #11 (3/16 if #11 is not avail-
able) drill bit. The back stem should fall off.
Replacement Illustration 22 Pop Rivet
Use a pop rivet gun to replace it.

2.2.3 Monobolt (Magna-Bulb® and Magna-Lok®)
Removal
1. With a punch (or an air hammer with a punch attachment),
knock the stems out of the fasteners. See Illustration 24.
Illustration 23 Magna-Bulb®
2. Drill off the head of the rivet using a #11 (3/16 if #11 is not
available) or F (1/4 if F is not available) drill bit (depending
on size). The back stem should fall off.
Replacement
Illustration 24 Magna-Lok®
Use a monobolt rivet gun to replace it.
2.2.3 Pin and Collar Rivet (Magna-Grip® with or without Collar)
Removal
From the head side, using the appropriate-size drill bit (1/4, 3/16,
or 3/8), drill off the head of the pin. The collar should then fall off.
NOTE: Be extremely careful not to overheat the steel pin Illustration 25 Magna-Grip®
and collar. Use low-RPM drill speed.
Or from the collar side, the rivet can be cut off with a die grinder or a
reciprocating saw. Punch out the center and the remaining ring.
Replacement
Use a Huck rivet gun to replace it. Illustration 26 Magna-Grip®
If a Huck rivet gun is not available, replace the fastener with a Grade with Collar
8 bolt of like diameter and a Grade 8 locking nut. For additional
locking capacity, use Loc-Tite.
NOTE: Flat washers are required against aluminum surfaces.

2.2.4 BOM® Fastener
Removal
A BOM® fastener must be cut off with a die grinder or a reciprocating

saw. Punch out the center. The remaining ring should be punched
out.
Replacement Illustration 27 BOM® Fastener
Replace with a Grade 8 bolt of like diameter and a Grade 8 locking
nut. For additional locking capacity, use Loc-Tite.
2.2.5 Locknuts
Removal
Locknuts can be removed with an appropriate open-end or box-end

wrench.
Replacement
Since used locknuts distort the threads, they should be discarded and
replaced with new locknuts. The bolt should be discarded as well.
2.2.6 Nutsert
NOTE: A nutsert is a threaded insert that is

crimped into place. A nutsert need only to be
removed if it is damaged and cannot be retapped.
Removal
Cut off with a die grinder.

Replacement
Using a nutsert insert tool, replace the nutsert with one meeting
original specifications. Do not use Loc-Tite on the threads of a Illustration 28 Nutsert
nutsert.
If a nutsert of original specifications or the tool to install nutserts is not
available, the nutsert may be replaced with another form of threaded
insert or a nut and bolt. This depends upon application and should be
approved by Utilimaster Customer Service. If it is to be replaced
with a nut and bolt, it is important to use flat washers on both sides of
the material.

2.2.8 Vinyl Barrier Tape
This white vinyl tape is used wherever steel and aluminum surfaces mate in order to prevent corrosion of the
surfaces.
Removal
Peel or scrape off.

Replacement
Apply to mating surfaces from a fresh roll.

NOTE: Tape rolls can be ordered with the following part numbers:
1-wide roll P/N 12303707 2-wide roll P/N 12303706
3-wide roll P/N 12303705 4-wide roll P/N 12605947
2.2.9 Double-faced Adhesive Tape
Removal
With a razor knife, cut along the length of the tape while pulling apart the joined flat surfaces. Scrape off rem-
nants as much as possible. Clean with a solvent.
Replacement
Apply to one surface from a fresh roll. Do not remove the tape paper until the other surface is in the proper
position. Once the tape sticks to a surface, you will not be able to reposition it without starting over.
2.2.10 Bolts with Thread Adhesive

Removal
Bolts with thread adhesive cannot be reused. After the bolt is removed with the appropriate wrench, scrape off
any adhesive residue from the seal if present on a reusable surface.
Replacement
1. Slowly torque the new bolt to the appropriate value. (Using a power tool to spin the fastener quickly
may lower the effectiveness of the seal.)
2. Apply torque seal to the bolt. (See Section 2.2.11.)
2.2.11 Torque Seal
Torque seal appears as a small painted line across a bolt thread and nut or across a bolt and washer seam. If
the seal line is broken (out of alignment), the fastener has loosened.
Removal
After the bolt is removed, if any residue from the seal is present on a reusable surface, scrape off the residue.

Replacement
Apply a small bead of torque seal or paint stick across the new bolt threads, nut, head, and/or washer.
NOTE: Torque seal or paint stick may be used in the following locations:
Front and Rear Bumpers
Body Mounting Bolts (See Illustration 12, Section 1.2.6.)
Seat Restraint System
Seat Pedestal
2.3 Lengths of Buck Rivets
Rivet diameter, in. 1/16 3/32 1/8 3/32 3/16 1/4 5/16 3/8
Hole diameter, in. 0.067 0.096 0.1285 0.159 0.191 0.257 0.323 0.386
Drill no. 51 41 30 21 11 F P W
Rivet length, in. Maximum rivet grips for given lengths in inches*
1/16 0.110 0.091 0.061 0.033 ..... ..... ...... .....
1/4 0.164 0.151 0.120 0.094 0.064 ..... ..... .....
3/16 0.218 0.210 0.180 0.153 0.124 0.062 ..... .....
3/8 0.272 0.270 0.239 0.214 0.184 0.122 0.062 .....
7/16 ..... 0.330 0.297 0.275 0.244 0.182 0.122 0.067
1/2 ..... 0.389 0.356 0.334 0.305 0.240 0.181 0.124
9/16 ..... 0.449 0.416 0.395 0.364 0.300 0.241 0.184
5/8 ..... ..... 0.475 0.456 0.424 0.360 0.299 0.244
3/4 ..... ..... 0.594 0.577 0.545 0.477 0.416 0.360
7/8 ..... ..... ..... 0.697 0.665 0.595 0.534 0.476
1 ..... ..... ..... ..... 0.785 0.715 0.650 0.596
1-1/4 ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... 0.950 0.884 0.832
1-1/2 ..... ..... ..... ..... ..... 1.187 1.120 1.069
NOTE: *Assuming driven head is flat with diameter and depth of 1.4 and 0.5 respectively, times original rivet diameter.
LENGTH OF BUCK RIVETS
RIVET DIAMETER 3/16
Rivet Length Metal Rivet Grips Metal Thickness

7/16 .244 3/16 to 15/64
1/2 .305 1/4 to 19/64
9/16 .364 5/16 to 23/64
5/8 .424 3/8 to 27/64
3/4 .545 7/16 to 17/32
7/8 .665 35/64 to 21/32

2.4 Torque Values
NOTE: These torque values are only suggested values. Specific Utilimaster instructions
override these values.
Bolt Size S.A.E. Grade 2 S.A.E. Grade 5 S.A.E. Grade 8

Load** Torque Load** Torque Load** Torque
1/4-20 1,300 lbs. 5 ft.lbs. 2,000 lbs. 8 ft.lbs 2,850 lbs. 12 ft.lbs
1/4-28 1,500 lbs. 6 ft.lbs. 2,300 lbs. 10 ft.lbs. 3,250 lbs. 14 ft.lbs.
3/8-16 3,200 lbs. 20 ft.lbs. 4,950 lbs. 30 ft.lbs 6,950 lbs. 45 ft.lbs.
7/16-20 4,900 lbs. 35 ft.lbs 7,550 lbs. 55 ft.lbs 10,700 lbs. 80 ft.lbs.
1”-8 15,000 lbs. 250 ft.lbs. 38,700 lbs. 645 ft.lbs. 54,600 lbs. 910 ft.lbs.
1”-12 16,400 lbs. 270 ft.lbs. 42,300 lbs. 705 ft.lbs. 59,700 lbs. 1,000 ft.lbs.
1”-14 16,800 lbs. 280 ft.lbs. 43,300 lbs. 720 ft.lbs. 61,100 lbs. 1,015 ft.lbs.
* Torque listed are suggested values on parts carrying residual oil of manufacture. These values do not
apply to plated or otherwise lubricated parts.
** Clamp load (lbs.) equal to 75% of bolt Proof Load.
Reprinted from 1969 S.A.E. Handbook.

2.5 Body Sealants
One-compound polyurethanes are very effective sealants. They remain permanently elastic (less cracking due
to shrinkage), they can be painted, and they require no mixing. They bond as well as seal, thus reducing the
number of mechanical fasteners needed, and they also reduce noise and corrosion.
The following statements provide an overview of what to look for when working with polyurethane sealants:
1. Manufacturers Recommendations: Always follow manufacturers cautions and recommendations
for application and cleanup.
2. Conditions: Recommended application temperatures are 40º to 100º F. For cold-weather applica-
tions, store sealants at approximately 70º F, and remove them just prior to using. Make sure joint is
frost-free.
3. Surface: Clean the surface with a strong jet of compressed air, sandblast, or solvent. Remove all
loose particles. The surface must be clean, dry, free of grease or rust, and of sound quality.
4. Priming: Usually no priming is required. Since substrate type and uniformity can vary, a pretest is
recommended. Sealant manufactures have primers when substrates require them. Since compatibility
between manufacturers is in question, do not mix and match different manufacturers primers and
sealants.
5. Application: Cut the tip of the plastic nozzle to joint size. Puncture the airtight seal. Install with a
hand- or power-operated caulking gun. For best performance, sealant should be gunned in the joint
where the joint slot is at the midpoint of its designed expansion and contraction. Dip the Poly-stick in a
soapy solution to ease spreading the adhesive to seal any gaps.
Limitations:
Since the system is moisture-cured, permit sufficient exposure to air.
Do not apply over silicones or in the presence of curing silicones.
Avoid contact with alcohol, and alcohol-containing solvents during cure.
For best results, use open cartridges in the same day.

3.0 Windows
3.1 Windshield and Quarter-Windows
A properly bonded windshield is critical to the overall structural integrity of the vehicle.
Utilimaster recommends professional automotive glass specialists replace the windshield and
windows.
NOTE: Glass adhesives and sealants have a short shelf life. Close attention must be paid to
cleaning surfaces and to timing during installation. The following information can be
shared with auto glass shops.
NOTE: Please read entire procedure before working on the vehicle.
NOTE: If you do the job yourself, you will need:
Replacement glass
Rubber trim molding
Glass replacement tools
Glass cleaner, primer, adhesive materials
The items listed in Sections 3.1.1 and 3.1.2
3.1.1 Tool Kit (Part Number 23005014)
The Utilimaster bonded window replacement tool kit (see

Illustration 31) consists of:
1. Windshield support block
2. Quarter window spacer block
3. Poly-stick
4. Utility knife
5. Window removal tool
Not includedmasking tape, caulking gun, medium
red Scotch Brite to roughen surfaces, clean cotton
rag or lint-free paper towel, a wooden block (approxi-
Illustration 31 Tool Kit mately 2x 4x 6) to square glass surface flush with
the moulding, and a squeegee or roller is useful for
bonding the trim.
3.1.2 Replacement Material Kit (Part Number 23005015)
The Utilimaster bonded window replacement material kit (see

Illustration 32) consists of:
1 Isopropyl alcohol
2. Sika® Activator
3. Sika® Primer 210T
4. SikaTack® Ultrafast Urethane Adhesive Sealant
5. Sika® Cleaner 226
Not includedKent Liquid Rubber 10240 or equiva-
Illustration 32 Material Kit lent to fill in any gaps in the trim seam.

3.1.3 Replacement Glass
Besides tools, adhesives, and sealants, you will need to order replacement glass and perimeter trim molding
from Utilimaster. (See also the FedEx Ground Body Parts Manual for replacement parts.)
The windshield glass is 1/4-thick laminated safety glass. The quarter glass and the glass in sliding doors are
tempered safety glass which cannot be cut after tempering.
For replacing the entire windshield, about 21 feet of perimeter trim molding and 3 feet of flat center trim are required.
If care is taken in removing the glass, only the replaced half of the windshield needs to have new molding applied.
Each quarter window glass replacement requires about 9 feet of perimeter trim molding.
3.1.4 Removal and Replacement Procedure
To avoid injuring yourself or others, use

Use extreme care when handling glass!
caution when using the window removal tool.
3.1.4.1 Removing the Glass
1. From the outside of the vehicle, insert the blade of the

window-removal tool through the urethane sealant and
work your way around the window, cutting the sealant.
(See Illustration 33.) Push the blade (with the blade
handle) into the sealant and, with the other hand, pull the
tool toward you. To avoid injuring yourself or others,
be very careful while using the tool! Try to leave at
least a 1/8-thick section of sealant on the window frame.
NOTE: Remove the side mirror for better access when Illustration 33 Cutting Old Sealant
replacing the quarter glass.
2. Carefully remove the damaged glass.
3. Check replacement window for fit.
3.1.4.2 Preparing the Mounting Surface
1. If the old adhesive is bonded firmly to the frame and not

peeling from the surface, trim the bead down to 1/16 to
1/8 (see Illustration 34). If the old adhesive is loose,
remove all adhesive down to the metal surface.
NOTE: Trim normally comes off with the window.
The only location where there may be a problem is at
the center post.
2. Use Scotch Brite (medium-red) to roughen the surface
of any bare metal area of the mounting flange. Clean the Illustration 34 Trimming Sealant Bead
aluminum bond area with isopropyl alcohol. (Do not use
lacquer thinners or mineral spirits.)

4-1/8"
3. Apply Sika® Activator to the exposed metal of the mount-
3/4"
ing frame using a clean cotton rag or lint free paper towel
3/16" and wiping in one direction. Turn rag several times to
4-3/8"
7/8" avoid transferring dirt and oil. Drying time is 10 minutes.
4. Brush a light coat of Sika® Primer 210T on the bonding
surface. Drying time is 10 minutes.
2-1/4" 3.1.4.3 Preparing the Window Glass
1. For windshield replacement, use the nylon block

available from Utilimaster as glass supports when installing
the new windshield glass, or cut a minimum of 2 wood
Illustration 35 Dimensions of
Windshield Glass Support Block
windshield support blocks. (See Illustration 35.)
4-1/8"
3/4"
3/16"
7/8"
4-3/8"
2-1/4"
Support Blocks
Illustration 36 Placement of Windshield Glass Support Blocks
Set the support blocks (beveled edge down) into the

trough at the bottom of the windshield, spacing them along
the bottom of the opening. (See Illustration 36.)
2. For quarter window replacement, use the nylon blocks
1"
available from Utilimaster to establish the 5/16 gap
7/16" between the glass and frame, or cut one (1) wood quarter
1/4" window spacer block. (See Illustration 37.)
4" 5/16"
Set the spacer block on the flange around the window
5/16'
1" 1/4"
mount (see Illustration 38) and tape to secure (see
7/16" Illustration 39).
3. Clean the glass with a 2-to-1 mixture of isopropyl alcohol
Illustration 37 Dimensions of Quarter
and water. Avoid heavy soaps or ammonia. Auto glass
Window Spacer Block
replacement dealers also have recommended cleaners.
4. Apply Sika® Activator to the mounting frame using a clean
cotton rag or lint free paper towel and wiping in one
direction.

6. Wipe bonding (frit band) area of cleaned glass with Sika®
Activator, using a clean cotton rag or lint free paper towel Quarter Window Spacer Block
and wiping in one direction. Turn rag several times to (locate in either of two positions)
avoid transferring dirt and oil. Drying time is 10 minutes.

NOTE: Glass purchased from Utilimaster should
have a black ceramic frit band around the perimeter
of the mounting side of the glass. If you sourced the
glass locally, and there is no frit band, mask off a
1-wide area around the perimeter of the mounting
side of the glass. Apply Sika® Primer 206 G & P to
glass perimeter as a UV block. Drying time is
approximately five minutes. (See Illustration 310.)
3.1.4.4 Installing the Window Glass
1. Using a caulking gun, apply a bead of Sika® urethane Illustration 38 Location of Quarter
adhesive (approximately 5/16 wide by 1/2 tall) directly Window Spacer Block
to the glass frit band or the mounting flange. Use a V
shaped nozzle for the optimal bead shape. (See Illustration
310.)
2. Close any voids at corners or elsewhere in the sealant
bead by smoothing over with a poly-stick.
3. Install the glass onto the frame and align to correct position
using the support blocks. Use a block to square outer
glass surface flush with the edge of the molding.
NOTE: Glass must be installed within 10 minutes of
adhesive application for good bonding.
4. Press gently around the edge of the glass to set properly
and ensure good contact with adhesive around entire Illustration 39 Secure Quarter Window
Glass Spacer Block
perimeter. (See Illustration 311.) Use the poly-stick to
clean up any excess adhesive.
NOTE: Recommended minimum thickness of the bond
line after installation is 1/4. Adhesive
5. The quarter window can be held in place with masking
tape until the adhesive sets up.
6. Allow at least eight hours for the adhesive to set up when Frit Band
installing a windshield or a quarter window.
Illustration 310 Frit Band

and Adhesive

Illustration 311 Installing Glass
Exterior Side Windshield Glass Panels
Windshield
Centerpiece Interior Side Adhesive
of Windshield
Structure
Illustration 312 Cross-section of Windshield Centerpiece.
NOTE: Windshield installations must have a full bead of adhesive in the center section be-
tween the two glass panels. (See Illustration 312.)

3.1.4.5 Installing the Trim Molding
Cut away from yourself and toward the corner or lip of the trim when cutting the trim.
Be sure not to nick or cut the glass when installing the trim. This can lead to cracks
developing over time.
1. After adhesive has dried, scrape any excess adhesive from glass
edges and surface with a utility knife and clean with isopropyl
alcohol. (Spray 70%-90% isopropyl alcohol around perimeter
of glass and wipe dry with a lint free paper towel.)
2. With a paper towel, apply Sika® Cleaner 226 onto glass around
the trim molding bonding surface and let dry for five minutes.
NOTE: The center of the windshield has a wide flat trim.
If you are replacing the windshield, you will need to
replace this as well.
3. Being careful not to touch adhesive, remove the adhesive backing
strip, and apply self-adhesive trim as shown in Illustrations 313
through 316. Avoid stretching the trim.
4. Miter-cut corners and overlap with the knife pointing away from
you as shown in Illustration 315. Do not cut through the lip of
the trimallow it to wrap around the edge of glass.
5. On the quarter window seam, miter-cut the start/finish corners and
angles as shown in Illustration 316. Illustration 313 Applying Trim
6. The wide flat trim for the center of the windshield should butt
squarely against the top edge trim. Check trim squareness before
applying.
7. Press down on the center windshield trim using a roller or squee-
gee to ensure a good bond. Repeat a second time. Cut center
trim square with the bottom edge trim.
8. If there are any gaps in the mitered seams and splice joints, fill
them with liquid rubber.
9. If quarter window trim interferes with remounting the mirror
bracket, cut just enough lip off the trim to allow the bracket to fit.
Illustration 314 Applying Trim
Pressure sensitive adhesive must not be exposed to washer solution for 24 hours
following application.

Illustration 315 Trimming Corners
Peel trim back and discard this piece.

Application direction.
Discard.
Start here Place razor blade corner to
corner for mitre and cut.
(for center trim only)
Discard.
On all corners except starting/stopping

point don’t cut through lip of trim. Keep
attached and wrap around corner of glass.
Start here.
Illustration 316 Trim Diagram

Sliding
3.2 Sliding Side Door Windows
Window
NOTE: The glass used in these windows is
Exterior Door
Panel tinted, laminated safety glass in the sliding
window, and LEXAN® in the lower right-hand
side window.
3.2.1 Sliding Window
3.2.1.1 Removal
1. Using a #11 (or 3/16") drill bit, remove the

monobolts around the slider window. (See
Window Rubber
Section 2.2.3.)
2. Lift out the window.
3. Scrape off the old foam tape from the door
panel.
3.2.1.2 Replacement
Door Frame
1. Place the replacement window in the door frame
Lower Side
Door Window and from the inside, mark the rivet holes around
the circumference of the replacement window.
Door 2. Using a #11 (or 3/16) drill bit, drill holes into
the replacement window frame for the monobolt
Seal
Interior Door
Panel
fasteners.
Illustration 317 Sliding Side Door Windows 3. Line the exterior opening on the door with foam
tape.
2. Place the new window into the opening.
3. Attach the window to the door frame using
monobolt rivets.
3.2.2 Lower Side Door Window
3.2.2.1 Removal
1. Remove the old LEXAN® window and the

window rubber.
2. Remove any adhesive that may still remain from
the ends of the window rubber. (See Illustration
318.)
3. Clean the aluminum around the window area
with a two-to-one mixture of isopropyl alcohol
and water. Turn the rag several times to avoid
transferring dirt and oil.
Illustration 318 Trim Ends
Sealed with Urethane Adhesive

3.2.2.2 Replacement
1. Cut a 90 length of window rubber and fit it

around the metal frame on which the window
is to be installed. Trim off any excess. (See
Illustration 319.)
2. Apply a bead of urethane adhesive inside the
window channel to provide an extra seal for
the window. (See Illustration 319.)
3. Pull back the window rubber locking lip and
set the LEXAN® replacement window into
the frame.
4. Using a sealing tool, seal the window into the
Illustration 319 Lower Window Trim
rubber lock by folding the long locking lip
under the short lip (nearest the window).
(Illustrations 320 and 321.)
5. Using a caulking gun, apply a bead of
urethane adhesive to the ends of the window
rubber to complete the window seal. (See
Illustration 318.)
Illustration 320 Window Trim Sealing Tool
Illustration 321 Locking the Window Trim

Never scrape the LEXAN® cargo area window with squeegees, razor blades, or other sharp
objects! Do not scrub, use brushes, or use abrasive cleaners. Do not clean in the hot sun or
at elevated temperatures. Use only a mild soap or detergent and a clean sponge or soft
cloth. See details below.
3.2.2.3 Cleaning Exterior Window
The lower window in the side sliding door is made of Never use any of the following on the LEXAN®
LEXAN® to provide for higher impact-resistance than window:
laminated or tempered safety glass. However, Abrasive cleaners
LEXAN is less scratch-resistant than glass so extra Highly alkaline cleaners
care must be taken when cleaning this window. Benzene
Gasoline
Never scrape the LEXAN window with squee-
Acetone
gees, razor blades, or other sharp objects!
Carbon tetrachloride
Wash the LEXAN window with a mild soap or
The following cleaning agents are compatible with
detergent, using a clean sponge or soft cloth. Rinse
LEXAN as long as the manufacturers recommenda-
well with clean water. To prevent water spots, dry
tions and instructions are followed:
with a chamois or moist cellulose sponge. Do not
Joy®
scrub or use brushes! Do not clean in the hot sun
Top Job®
or at elevated temperatures!
Palmolive Liquid®
Fresh paint splashes, grease, and smeared glazing Windex with Ammonia D®
compounds can be removed easily before drying by Freon T.F.
rubbing lightly with a grade of VM&P naphtha or isopro- VM&P grade naphtha
pyl. Naphtha also works with labels and stickers. Butyl
cellosolve works well for removal of paints and marking
pen inks. Afterward, a warm final wash should be made,
using a mild soap or detergent solution and ending with a
thorough rinsing with clean water.
Scratches and minor abrasions can be minimized by
using a mild automobile polish, such as Johnson Paste
Wax. Be sure to follow the manufacturers instruc-
tions.

4.0 Wiper/Washer System
6.1
6.4
6.2
Pivot
6.3
The wiper motor is equipped with an internal thermal over-

load protection switch that stops the wiper motor in case of 6.7
overload. Thus, if the motor is not unplugged, the motor may
activate itself without warning. Always unplug the motor
when working on or disconnecting wiper linkages.
6.6
Item Description
6.0 WIPER ASY SINGLE 86.5W/93.5W
6.1 MOTOR BRKT ASY WIPER
6.2 LINKAGE 86.5-93.5W
6.3 LH WIPER ARM LH LG SYSTM
6.3 RH WIPER ARM SYSTEM
6.4 WIPER BLADE 24"
BTL WASHER ASY 1 GAL
6.5
6.5
6.6 HOSE 5/32" W/S WASHER
6.7 WASHER TEE 1/8 X 1/8 X 3/16
6.NS WIPER PARTS PACK
6.NS WIPER LG MANUAL MAINTENANCE
Illustration 41 Wiper/Washer System

4.1 Wiper System Troubleshooting Procedure
The following troubleshooting and repair procedure should be followed when encountering operational problems with
wiper systems.
The wiper motor is equipped with an internal thermal overload protection switch that
stops the wiper motor in case of overload. Thus, if the motor is not unplugged, the motor
may activate itself without warning. Always unplug the motor when working on or discon-
necting wiper linkages.
Always use the correct wiper harness plug and wiper switch when bench-testing a motor.
Accidental hot wiring of the wrong wiper motor terminal may cause damage to the internal
components of the wiper motor.
CONDITION CORRECTIVE ACTION
Wiper motor inoperative No Remove and replace

Fuse Okay? Remove and replace fuse
high or low speed wiper switch
Yes Yes
Power available at high No Power available at high No Power available from

and low speed terminal and low speed wiper ignition switch to wiper
of motor connector? switch terminals? switch?
Yes Yes No
Repair open circuit between Repair open circuit between

Remove and replace
wiper switch and wiper motor ignition and wiper switch
wiper motor
connectors connectors
No Linkage moves freely when No Remove and replace linkage

Wiper motor runs, but
Motor crank broken or loose? disconnected from motor and/or pivot assembly
wiper arms do not move
shaft?
Yes Yes
Check motor shaft splines for

Remove and replace wiper
damage and replace damaged
motor
parts as necessary
Power available at low speed

Wiper motor inoperative Power available at low speed No No Remove and replace wiper
terminal of wiper switch
at low speed terminal of motor connector? switch
connector?
Yes Yes
Remove and replace wiper Repair open circuit between

motor wiper switch and wiper motor
connectors

Power available at high Power available at high
Wiper motor inoperative No No Remove and replace
speed terminal of wiper speed terminal of wiper
at high speed wiper switch
motor connection? switch connection?
Yes Yes
Remove and replace Repair open circuit

wiper motor between wiper switch and
wiper motor connectors
Wipers operational but do not Power available at park terminal of No Repair open circuit between wiper
return to park position wiper motor connector? switch and wiper motor connectors
Yes
Remove and replace wiper motor
Remove wiper motor crank, check

Wipers operational but do not Wiper motor crank in the correct No motor shaft for damaged splines,
return to park position park position?
replaced damaged parts as
necessary, and reinstall crank in
correct park position
Yes
Remove wiper motor crank, check

motor shaft for damaged splines and
replaced damaged parts as
necessary. Run motor and park.
Reinstall wiper arms in correct park
position, and torque to 12 ft•lb
Correct park position of wiper arms

Wipers oversweep or undersweep Park position of wiper arms No
and/or wiper motor crank (see #6,
(For W300 unit, see addendum) correct?
Park Position)
Yes
Check for loose or worn linkage,

excessive play in pivot shaft
assembly, and replace damaged parts
as necessary.
Caution: Always install wiper arms and blades according to manufacturer’s instructions to avoid interference with windshield molding.

4.2 Wiper Motor
4.2.1 Removal
1. Disconnect the battery negative (black) cable.

2. Disconnect the electrical connector from the wiper motor.
3. Loosen and remove the wiper motor drive shaft nut with a 13 mm wrench. (See Illustration 42.)
4. Remove the motor crank from the motor drive shaft.
5. Remove the three motor mount screws with a 10 mm wrench.
6. Remove the wiper motor.
Illustration 42 Motor Mount and Crank
4.2.2 Replacement
1. Use two (4) 5/16 x 1 bolts and two (4) two-way locknuts to fasten the wiper motor against the inside
of the cowl channel and against the lower cowl channel. Torque from 5 to 7 ftlbs
2. Install pivot assembly with two (2) 1-1/8 locknuts and two (2) flat washersone on each side. Torque
from 22 to 30 ftlbs. (See Section 4.3.)
3. Install rain shields onto the pivot assemblies. (See Illustra-
tion 43.)
4. Connect motor crank with one (1) motor drive shaft nut.
Torque from 9 to 17 ftlbs. (See Illustration 42.)
NOTE: If the wiper linkage moves while torquing the
motor drive crank, when the ignition is switched back
on, the wiper system will rotate once to park itself.
5. Install wiper arms onto pivot assemblies and fasten with
arm retaining nuts. (See Section 4.5.)
6. Reconnect the wiper motor harness to the jumper harness. Illustration 43 Install Rain
Shield on Pivot Assembly

Illustration 44 Park Position
7. Reconnect the battery, turn on the ignition, and run the wiper system to check for the correct
park position. Return the wiper control to the OFF position to allow the wiper motor to park
itself.
NOTE: The wiper arms should be 4 from the bottom of the windshield as shown in
Illustration 45.
8. Torque arm retaining nut from 14.8 to 16.2 ftlbs.
4"
Park Position

4.3 Pivot and Link Assembly
4.3.1 Removal

2. Remove the head covers. (See Illustration 46.)
3. Loosen and remove the arm retaining nuts with a 14 mm wrench, and remove the wiper arms.
4. Remove the rain shields.
5. Remove the 1-1/8" lock nuts and washers from the pivot assemblies. (See Illustration 46.)
Illustration 46 Pivot Assembly
6. Remove the wiper motor drive shaft nut with a 13 mm wrench. (See Illustration 47.)
7. Remove the motor crank from the wiper motor drive shaft.
Illustration 47 Motor Crank
8. Remove and replace the pivot and link assembly.

4.3.2 Replacement
1. Position the system linkage assembly and push pivots through 0.81" holes in the body.
2. Assemble pivots as follows:
(a) Place a steel washer onto each pivot body. (See Illustration 48.)
(b) Place a 1-1/8" locknut onto the pivot assembly, torque from 22 to 30 ftlbs.
(c) Place a rain shield onto the pivot body.
Illustration 48 Pivot Replacement

3. Reconnect the battery, turn the ignition on, and run the wiper system. Return the wiper
control to the OFF position to allow the wiper motor to park itself.
4. Disconnect the battery. Reinstall the motor crank to the wiper motor drive shaft, and torque the motor
drive shaft nut from 9 to 17 ftlbs. (See Illustration 47.)
5. Reconnect the battery, turn the ignition on, and run the wiper system. Return the wiper
control to the OFF position to check for the correct park position. Correct park position, pivot
cranks should be positioned as shown in Illustration 49.
6. Replace the wiper arms on the pivot assembly as described in Section 4.5.
7. Start the wiper system and test all the functions.

4.4 Wiper Blade
4.4.1 Removal
1. Pull the wiper arm away from the windshield, and lock the arm into the service position.
2. Rotate the blade about 90°, and push the blade toward the windshield about an inch. (The rubber insert
will bow outward from the arm pushing against it.) (See Illustration 410.)
3. Unhook the blade assembly from the arm.
4.4.2 Replacement
1. Hook in a new blade, and push the blade away from the vehicle until the blade locks in place.
2. Rotate the new blade to its normal position, and lower the arm.
1. To remove, lock arm

in service position
3. Slide arm
hook out of
blade
assembly
2. Push wiper blade assembly

toward windshield
Illustration 410 Installing Wiper Blade
4.5 Wiper Arm

4.5.1 Removal

3. Loosen and remove the arm retaining nuts with a 14 mm wrench, and
remove the wiper arms.
Illustration 411 Removing

Wiper Arm

4.5.2 Replacement
1. Ensure the wiper system is PARKED with pivot cranks as shown. (See Illustration 412.)
2. Push the arm heads over the tapered knurl shaft with the arms facing outwards from the center of the
windshield at park position. The blades should be approximately 4" from the bottom of the
windshield glass to the outer end of the blade tip. (See Illustration 413.)
4"
Park Position
3. Replace the two arm retaining nuts, and torque them 15 to 16 ftlb with a 14 mm wrench.
4. Push the washer jet hoses through the holes provided in the body, and connect them
to the washer pump.
5. Replace the head covers over the retaining nuts on the arm heads. (See
Illustration 414.)
Illustration 414 Head Cover

4.6 Pivot Assembly
Note: The pivot and link assemblies are supplied as a complete unit. When a pivot
becomes worn through age, the linkage is also often worn. Therefore, the complete pivot
and linkage assemblies should be replaced. The Manufacturer and/or Utilimaster Corpo-
ration will not warrant pivots or links, supplied and installed as separate components,
that fail due to poor or incorrect installation.
4.6.1 Removal

3. Loosen and remove the two arm retaining nuts, and remove the wiper arms.
4. Disconnect the link from the pivot by applying even pressure, using two
flat-bladed screwdrivers, on the underside of the plastic ball cap.
(See Illustration 415.)
5. Remove the rain shield.
6. Remove the 1-1/8" AF locknut from the pivot.
7. Remove the pivot assembly.
4.6.2 Replacement
1. Place new pivot assembly on the

pivot.
2. Replace the 1-1/8" AF locknut and
torque from 22 to 30 ftlbs.
Illustration 415 Pivot Assembly
3. Grease the plastic ball cap with
Castrol LM or Shell Retinax A
grease or equivalent.
4. Place a 3/4" socket over the plastic ball cap, and push the cap onto the pivot ball. Using a pair of
multigrips or tongue-and-groove pliers, squeeze the socket and the pivot crank together until the ball is
firmly seated in the ball cap. (See Illustration 416.)
5. Replace the rain shield.
6. Reconnect the battery, turn the ignition on and run
the wiper system. Return the wiper control to the
OFF Position to allow the wiper motor to park
itself.
7. Replace the wiper arms on the pivot assembly as
described in Section 4.5.
Illustration 416 Squeezing Socket and

Pivot Crank

4.7 Washer Bottle
4.7.1 Removal
1. Unscrew the four (4) torque screws that hold

the bottle to the floor, and set aside screws
and washer for later use.
2. Detach the fluid hose and wire harness plug
from the washer bottle.
4.7.2 Replacement
1. Attach fluid hose and wire harness plug to the

washer bottle. (See Illustration 417.)
2. Fasten bottle to floor with four (4) torque
screws and washers. (See Illustration 418.)
Illustration 417 Connect Hose and Wire Harness
Illustration 418 Mount Bottle to Floor

5.0 Doors Important! Record the key number stamped
on the key for each truck. For security
5.1 Keys
reasons they are usually not stamped on the
5.1.1 Ignition Keys lock cylinder, and you must have this number
Ignition keys are supplied by Best Access Systems (or to obtain replacement keys.
in the case of vehicles equipped with a Vehicle Access Units are produced with one lock cylinder option. To
Control System or VACS, by Utilimaster). They can maintain security control, you should contact the lock
be duplicated in most hardware stores, or by contact- company directly for replacements.
ing Best (or Utilimaster) for more information. Order locks by faxing an order to 800-328-3442 on
For vehicles equipped with a Vehicle Access Control FedEx Ground letterhead. Include the following
System (VACS), an emergency keyed ignition switch information:
is located underneath the dash panel in the event the Your Name
VACS module fails. Employee Number
Nonrevenue Account Number
Complete Mailing and Billing Address
Phone Number
Key Code and Amount Requested
Illustration 51 Ignition (Pentagonal) and

Rear Door (Rectangular) Keys for VACS Vehicles
5.1.2 Other Keys

Keys to the rear roll-up door, and bulkhead door are
Illustration 52 VACS Wristband
supplied by Best Access Systems. Transponder
Contact: Best Access Systems
6150 E. 75th street
Indianapolis In. 46250 5.2 Vehicle Access Control System (VACS)
Phone: 317-849-6930
5.2.1 Wrist Band Transponder
Fax: 317-845-7649
The wrist band transponders are supplied through
For vehicles equipped with a VACS system, an Utilimaster. (For programming the transponder, see
emergency key is provided for access through the rear the Operation and Service Manual for Vehicle
door for vehicles if the wristband transponder fails to Access Controls System for Utilimaster Walk-In
respond. Vans, P/N 03102103.)

5.3 Rear Roll-Up Door
WARNING: The counterbalance spring is wound under high tension. This high-tension
spring can cause severe injury or death. Only qualified technicians should adjust this
spring.
Installation, repairs, and adjustments must be made by trained service personnel using
proper tools and instructions.
Use two winding bars that are 1/2" in diameter and 18" long. DO NOT USE bent winding
bars, screwdrivers, or punches for spring winding.
Illustration 53 Location of Serial Number on a Todco Roll-up Door
NOTE: When ordering parts for a rear door, specify the serial number of the door. The
serial number can be found on the metal tag attached to the inside upper right hand
corner of the door (when standing inside the cargo area, facing the door).
NOTE: After replacement of any part, check relevant adjustments and proper operation
of the door.
WARNING: Read all instructions before starting repair. Always maintain firm footing and
control of tools.

5.3.1 Cable Replacement Procedure (With Tension On Spring)
Illustration 54 Counterbalance Mounting Details
5.3.1.1 Removal
WARNING: DO NOT raise the door with
NOTE: Even if only one cable is frayed or the winding bar in place. Raising the
damaged, Utilimaster recommends that door at this point can cause injury or
damage to equipment.
both sets of cables be replaced at the same
time.
1. Close the door from the inside. Release the
spring tension from the cables by fully inserting a
winding bar that is 1/2 in diameter and 18 long
into one of the spring-winding-plug holes. (See
Illustrations 54 and 56.)
2. Raise the bar enough to allow insertion of a
second winding bar into the lower hole, and
release the tension enough to let the second
bar rest against the top panel.
3. Loosen the two setscrews on the cable drum,
releasing the cable drum from the shaft, and
remove the cable from the cable drum.
4. Remove the cable from the door bottom panel
by removing the anchor and cotter pins. (See
Illustration 55.) Illustration 55 Cable Anchor

Illustration 56 Counterbalance Winding Details
5.3.1.2 Replacement against the bearing, and tighten the two

1. Mount the new cable at the base of the setscrews on the drum.
bottom panel by slipping the cable anchor pin NOTE: Make sure the drums are against
through the cable anchor bracket and the eye the counterbalance shaft bearings, the set
at the end of the cable. screws are properly tightened, and the
2. Insert the cotter pin in the cable anchor pin to cables have equal tension.
secure the cable. 7. Clamp the counterbalance shaft with a locking
3. Bring the other cable end to the top of the pliers, handle against the ceiling to keep the
door and thread it over the top of the door to cables tight. (See Illustration 56.)
the inside. 8. Release the spring tension by rotating the
4. Temporarily tape the cable to the outside top spring winding plug just far enough to allow
panel of the door. removal of the winding bar against the top of
the door.
5. From inside the cargo area, insert the cable
end into the cable drum slot. Thread the NOTE: Rotating the counterbalance
cable into the groove nearest the slot, and assembly too far may cause cables to jump
turn the cable drum toward you until all slack off the cable drum.
is taken out, making sure the cable is follow- 9. Remove the clamp, tape, and check the
ing in its proper groove. operation of the door.
NOTE: The cable must be wound from the NOTE: A properly adjusted door should
outermost groove toward the inside of the open easily and when stopped, it should
drum. remain at any given location. (See Section
6. Maintaining tension on the cable, slide the 5.3.2.)
cable drum on the counterbalance shaft

WARNING: The counterbalance spring is wound under high tension. This high-tension
spring can cause severe injury or death. Only qualified technicians should adjust this
spring.
Installation, repairs, and adjustments must be made by trained service personnel using
proper tools and instructions.
Use two winding bars that are 1/2" in diameter by 18" long. DO NOT USE bent winding
bars, screwdrivers, or punches for spring winding.
Illustration 57 Mark Spring with Chalk to Keep Track of Winding
5.3.2 Spring Winding Procedure
1. Close the door and on the inside, clamp the 6. After adjusting the spring tension, tighten both
counterbalance shaft with the handle of the setscrews on the spring winding plug, and
locking pliers against the ceiling to keep the remove the locking pliers from the counterbal-
cables tight. (See Illustration 56.) ance shaft.
2. Run a chalk mark the full length of the counter- 7. Check the operation of the door by opening
balance spring. (See Illustration 57.) and closing the door.
3. Insert a winding bar that is 1/2 in diameter NOTE: A properly counterbalanced door
and 18 long into one of the spring winding should, when stopped, remain at any given
plug holes. location. If the door leaves the floor by
itself, the spring is wound too tightly, and a
4. Loosen the setscrews on the spring winding
few quarter turns should be released. If the
plug.
door has a tendency to drop when stopped,
5. Wind the spring by lifting up the bar. While a few more quarter turns should be added.
holding the first bar, place a second bar in the
next hole, and lift in the same manner after
removing the first bar. Repeat for twelve (12)
complete turns. Turns are counted by using
the chalk marks which show up as stripes as
the spring is wound. (See Illustration 57.)

5.3.3 Intermediate Panel
5.3.3.1 Removal
1. With the door closed, clamp the track below

the panel to be replaced to prevent the door
from raising.
2. Using a 1/4 drill bit, drill off the rivets in the
center hinges on the panel to be removed.
NOTE: Take care not to drill through the
outside panel. Punch out the rivet and in
at least one of the hinges, insert a punch
into one of the rivet holes to stabilize the
door panel while detaching the remaining
rivets and bolts.
3. Using a 1/2 wrench, remove both roller
Illustration 58 Center Hinge
brackets and rollers at both joints or top of the
panel. (See Illustration 59.)
4. Drill off the end hinge rivets attached to the
bottom of the panel with a 1/4 drill bit.
5. Lift the door panels above the panel to be
replaced into the horizontal track, and secure
them with a locking pliers clamped on the
horizontal track.
6. Remove the punch and lift out the old panel.
5.3.3.2 Replacement
1. Line up the new panel, and drill all of the hinge

holes on the bottom of the new panel.
2. With the upper door section clamped so that it
will not fall, tip the panel toward you to insert
the bolts.
3. Install the hinges over the bolts, and tighten the
nuts.
Illustration 59 Joint Roller Bracket
4. Swing the new panel upright and clamp into
position.
7. Remove the clamps and check the door
5. Lower the door from the horizontal tracks,
operation by opening and closing the door.
and drill all the holes in the top of the new
panel. NOTE: A properly adjusted door should
6. Insert the bolts and install the hinges over the open easily and when stopped, it should
bolts. Tighten the nuts. remain at any given location. (See Section
5.3.2.)

5.3.4 Top Panel
5.3.4.1 Removal
1. With the door closed, clamp the track below

the top panel to prevent the door from raising.
2. Using a 1/4 drill bit, drill out the rivets in the
center hinges on the top panel and the rivets on
the end hinges at the joint in the lower half of
the top panel. (See Illustrations 58 and 59.)
NOTE: Take care not to drill through the
outside panel. Punch out the rivet and in at
least one of the hinges, insert a punch in
one of the rivet holes to stabilize the door
panel while detaching the remaining rivets
and bolts.
3 Using a wrench with a 7/16 socket, remove
Illustration 510 Top Roller Bracket
the roller brackets and rollers at the top of the
panel. (See Illustration 510.)
4. Remove the punch and lift out the old panel.
5.3.4.2 Replacement
1. Line up the new panel, and drill all of the hinge

holes on the bottom of the new panel.
2. Tip the panel toward you to insert the bolts
through the outside of the panel.
3. Install the hinges over the bolts, and tighten the
nuts.
NOTE: The roller brackets on the bottom
of the top panel and on the top of the
bottom panel play an important part in
maintaining proper door alignment within
the track. The rollers on these brackets
must have 3 to 4 spacer washers (depend-
ing on the alignment) to maintain the
correct distance in the track. (See Illustra-
Illustration 511 Washers Help tion 511.)
Align the Door in the Track.
4. Swing the new panel upright and clamp into
position.
5. Drill all the holes in the new panel for the top
roller bracket.
6. Insert the bolts and install the hinges over the
bolts. Tighten the nuts.

NOTE: A properly adjusted door should
open easily and when stopped, it should
remain at any given location. (See Section
5.3.2.)
8. Also check the seal on the outside top of the
roll-up door.
NOTE: The top panel can be adjusted by
loosening the top roller bracket bolt and
moving the top roller up or down to adjust Illustration 512 Trop Roller Bracket Adjustments
the top panel in or out. (See Illustration 5
12.)
5.3.5 Bottom Panel

5.3.5.1 Removal
1. Open the door and push back until the bottom

of the door is about 16 or so from the header
at the top of the door opening.
2. Place a clamp in the horizontal tracks, on each
side, below the bottom rollers.
3. Place a clamp on one of the cables, near the
eye of the cable.
4. Grasping the clamp with one hand, release the
cable from the bottom of door by pulling the
cotter pin out of the cable anchor pin and
removing the anchor pin. (See Illustration 5
13.)
5. Allow the spring to wind the cable onto the Illustration 513 Cable Anchor
drum until the clamp stops it by contacting the
drum.
6. Repeat with the opposite cable. 8. Drill out the center hinge rivets attached to the
bottom panel. (See Illustration 58.)
7. Using a 1/4 drill bit, drill out two rivets which
fasten the pull strap to the strap loop on the NOTE: Take care not to drill through the
parcel shelf. (See Section 5.3.6.) outside panel. Punch out the rivet and in at
least one of the hinges, insert a punch in one
of the rivet holes to stabilize the door panel
while detaching the remaining rivets and
bolts.

brackets located at the bottom of the bottom
panel, and remove the rollers. (See Illustration
514.)
brackets and rollers at the joint or top of the
bottom panel.
11. Using a 1/4 drill bit, drill out the end hinge
rivets attached to the bottom panel.
12. Remove the panel from the tracks and push
the remainder of the door slightly towards the
front of the truck.
13. Place a clamp in the track to prevent the door
from rolling back down. Illustration 514 Bottom Roller Bracket
5.3.5.2 Replacement
9. Reattach the pull strap. (See Section 5.3.6.)
1. Remove a bottom roller bracket from the old
panel. 10. Reconnect each cable by drawing it by the
clamp to the outside of the bottom door panel.
2. Insert the roller in the bottom bracket of the
new panel. 11. Insert the cable anchor pin pin through the
cable eye and the cable anchor bracket. (See
3. Position the new panel and roller in the track.
Illustration 513.)
4. Install the other bottom roller in the track, and
12. Secure the cable anchor pin with the cotter pin.
align with the bottom roller bracket.
5. Attach the assembly to the door using 5/16
nuts and bolts.
NOTE: A properly adjusted door should
6. Using the hinges as a template and a #11 drill
open easily and when stopped, it should
bit, drill rivet holes in the new panel.
remain at any given location. (See Section
Note: Make sure the panels align for a 5.3.2.)
close fit at the joint.
7. Rivet the hinges into place.
8. Replace the rollers at the joints, as well as any
spacer washers on the roller shafts. (See
Illustration 511.)
NOTE: The roller brackets on the top of
the bottom panel and on the bottom of the
top panel play an important part in main-
taining proper door alignment within the
track. The rollers on these brackets must
have 3 to 4 spacer washers (depending on
the alignment) to maintain the correct
distance in the track.

5.3.7 Seals
5.3.7.1 Brush Seals
All brush seals (top and sides) must be replaced at the

same time.
1. Open the roll-up door.
2. Remove the rivets that hold the brush seal
aluminum strip in place. (See Illustration 5
17.)
3. Remove the brush seals.
Illustration 515 Remove Pull Strap 4. Cut the new brushes to the proper length with
Rivets from Roll-up Door bolt cutters.
5.3.6 Pull Strap Replacement 5. Using the old brush seal as a template, drill
1. Open the door enough to allow for comfort rivet holes using a #11 drill bit.
while working, and then clamp the track to 6. Attach the brush seals and the aluminum strip
prevent the door from opening or closing. using aluminum fasteners, or stainless steel
2. Drill out the two (2) rivets holding the pull sheet metal screws.
strap to the bottom panel of the roll-up door. 7. Close the door and check the seals.
3. Drill out the two (2) rivets holding the pull
strap loop to the underside of the middle shelf.
4. Slip the new strap through the pull strap loop
and reattach the loop to the bottom of the
shelf using rivets.
5. Attach the other end of the new strap to the
bottom panel of the roll-up door with rivets or
sheet metal screws.
6. Remove the clamp and test the strap while
opening and closing the door.
Illustration 517 Brush Seals

on Rear Roll up Door
Illustration 516 Remove Pull Strap Loop

Rivets from Middle Shelf

5.3.7.2 Top Vinyl Seal
Uncrimp both ends of the
bracket to remove the old seal. 1. Raise the roll-up door to the full open position and clamp
the track below the bottom panel to prevent the door from
moving.
2. Uncrimp both ends of the seal bracket. (See Illustration 5
18.)
3. Use a locking pliers to extract the old seal.
4. Slide the new seal into the bracket, and crimp the ends of
the bracket to secure the seal.
5. Remove the clamp, close the door and check the seal.
5.3.7.3 Bottom Vinyl Seal
This seal is held in place by both an undercut design of the panel and
seal, and also by fasteners placed through the vinyl seal into the
Illustration 518 Replacing Top Vinyl Seal bottom door panel.
1. Open the roll up door part of the way (with enough clear-
ance to work comfortably) and place a clamp in the track to
prevent the door from opening or closing.
2. Unscrew and discard the Phillips head fasteners holding the
vinyl seal to the bottom door panel. (See Illustrations 519
and 520.)
3. Remove the old seal.
4. Install the new seal, angle edge first, and rotate it into
position.
5. Secure with nine #8 (or larger) stainless steel flathead
screws.
6. Remove the clamp, close the door and check the seal.
Illustration 519 Cross-section of

Bottom Panel with Vinyl Seal
Illustration 520 Vinyl Seal

on the Bottom of the Rear Roll up Door

5.4 Side Sliding Door
Door Track
Channel
Sliding
Upper Door Track Window
Exterior Door
Panel
Latch Seal
Door Handle
Door Frame
Lower Side
Door Window
Interior Door
Panel Lower Door
Guide
Illustration 521 Sliding Side Door Exploded View

57231998a1
DET QTY PART TITLE
8 4 NUT, LOCK 1/4-20 2 WAY ZINC
7 4 SCREW, MA 1/4-20 X 3.00 FH PH SS
6 1 BRKT, STOP SLD DR ZINC KASON LH
6 1 BRKT, STOP SLD DR ZINC KASON RH
5 1 LOCK ADPT KIT ABLOY KASON
4 1 SHIM, DOOR .25 X 2.50 X 5.50 KASON
3 1 LOCK, CYL W/KEY ABLOY
2 1 HANDLE, CHRM NONLK PDL
1 1 LATCH, KASON INT 3/8" SHAFT
4 6
1
7
5
LH SHOWN—RH OPPOSITE
3
APPLY LOCK-TITE
BEFORE INSTALLATION.
Illustration 522 Door Handle Assembly, Exploded View

5.4.1 Side Sliding Door Handle Assembly
Removal
1. Locate and remove the four (4) two-way 7/16 locknuts

on the interior of the door mechanism. Discard the nuts
because the locking feature has been destroyed. (See
Illustrations 523.)
2. Hardware is loose. Grabbing the interior handle and the
exterior handle, pull apart the mechanism. Both the
interior and the exterior handles come off. (See Illustra-
tions 524 and 525.)
Replacement
1. Align the exterior handle in the cutout on the door. Illustration 523 Unscrewing Handle
2. Align the dot on the bushing with the 3/16 square hole
(above the lock knob) with the arrow stamped in the lock
body.
3. Align the square shafts on the exterior handle with the
square openings on the interior handle and push them
together.
4. Insert four (4) carriage bolts into the new handle from the
exterior.
5. From the interior, install four (4) new two-way locknuts.
6. Align the four bolts with the four holes on the exterior of
the door. Tighten to 8 ftlb.
Illustration 524 Removing Inner Handle
Illustration 525 Removing Outer Handle

5.4.2 Adjusting Side Sliding Door Handle
1. Loosen the two bolts which attach the door

catch to the body. (See Illustration 526.)
2. Slide the cab door into the closed position.
3. Align the catch with the latch on the door.
4. While holding the catch in position, tighten
the two bolts to 79 ftlb.
5. Open and close the door multiple times to
ensure proper operation. Repeat the
process if necessary.
Illustration 526 Loosening the Catch
Illustration 527 Aligning Latch and Catch

5.4.3 Side Sliding Door
Removal
NOTE: Although it is not required, removing the

door handle first (see Section 5.4.1) makes
removing the door easier.
1. From the interior use a 7/16 wrench to brace the
two-way locknuts in the bottom of the door. From
the exterior, unscrew the four panhead screws with a
Phillips head screwdriver. (See Illustration 527.)
Illustration 528 Removing Lower Door Guide
Illustration 527 Removing Bottom Screws
Illustration 529 Locating Locknut
2. Remove the Lower Door Guide. (See Illustration 5

28.)
3. From the exterior, locate the two-way locknut under
the top black seal, and brace the nut with a 1/2
wrench. (See Illustration 529.) From the interior,
use a 1/2 socket wrench to loosen the top two bolts
and remove. (See Illustration 530.)
4. Push the roller assembly back into the door pocket.
Illustration 530 Removing Bolts

5. With support from the interior person, the NOTE: Discard bolts, two-way locknuts,
exterior person lifts the door up and out. (See screws, and washers. New bolts, screws,
Illustration 532.) and two-way locknuts are required.
Illustration 531 Pushing Back Roller Assembly Illustration 532 Removing Door
5.4.4 Side Sliding Door 7. From the exterior, lift the black rubber seal on
Replacement the top of the door frame to expose the bolts.
NOTE: Refer to Illustrations 523 through 8. Attach the washers and the new two-way
528 (in reverse order) for the installation locknuts.
of a new door. NOTE: Do not reuse the two-way locknuts,
1. Set the door in the door opening. bolts, panhead screws when replacing the
sliding door.
2. Slide the roller assembly into place.
9. From the interior, use a 1/2 socket wrench to
3. From the exterior, lift the door. tighten the bolts.
4. From the interior, align the front hole on the 10. From the exterior, place the new panhead
door with the front hole on the top of the roller screws into the lower door guide at the bottom
assembly. using the existing holes.
5. From the interior, quickly insert a new bolt. 11. From the interior, place the washers and the
NOTE: The next step should be performed new two-way locknuts onto the screws and
quickly because the door is very heavy. brace with a 7/16 wrench.
6. From the exterior, brace the front of the door 12. From the exterior, tighten the screws with a
and push backwards as the interior person screwdriver.
aligns the back hole on the door with the back 13. Replace the door handle if necessary. (See
hole on the top of the roller assembly. Insert a Sections 5.4.2 and 5.4.7 for door handle
new bolt. installation and adjustment.)

5.4.5 Sliding Door Exterior Panel
Removal Replacement
1. Remove the handle. (See Section 5.4.1.) 1. With the new exterior door metal positioned on
a flat surface, attach the seal and retainer using
2. Remove the door from the vehicle. (See
the original holes.
Section 5.4.2.)
2. Attach the new exterior door metal with 3/16
3. Place on a flat surface.
monobolts.
4. Remove the window. (See Section 3.2.)
3. Reinstall the window. (See Section 3.2.)
5. Remove the rivets using a #11 (or 3/16) drill
4. Reinstall the door. (See Section 5.4.4.)
bit and drill (be sure to remove all of the rivet).
5. Attach the handle. (See Sections 5.4.2 and
6. Remove the seal and the extrusion from the
5.4.7 for door handle installation and adjust-
back edge of door and set them aside for
ment.)
reuse.
7. Remove the exterior door metal and discard.

5.4.6 Sliding Door Lower Guide
Removal
1. Open the door.

2. Use a #11 (3/16) drill bit to drill out and
remove the small retaining rivet. (See Illustra-
tion 533.)
3. Slide plastic lower guide toward rear of vehicle
and into door pocket until it stops. (See
4. Close door.
Illustration 533 Remove the Retaining Rivet 5. Remove the plastic guide from the underside of
vehicle, at the rear of the door pocket. Re-
move the cover plate at the rear of the door
pocket (if so equipped). Pull the lower plastic
guide down and out of the door pocket. (See
Replacement
1. Feed the new plastic guide into the door

pocket and aluminum retainer extrusion in the
Illustration 534 Slide Lower Guide
reverse procedure of Step #5 above. (See
also Illustration 539.)
2. Open the door.
3. Pull the plastic guide forward to the front edge
of the retainer extrusion.
4. Replace the removed retaining rivet with a new
rivet.
Illustration 535 Guide Beneath the Truck
Illustration 536 View from the Wheel Well

5.4.7 Adjusting Side Sliding Door 3. Tighten the five nuts to 7-9 ftlb.
Inspection
4. Check the door action and adjust until it is
1. Use an air hose or vacuum along door track and smooth.
guide to clear out any debris.
Adjusting Lower Door Guide
2. Note the door action during opening and closing.
1. Loosen the six 1/4 screws along the bottom
a. If the door moves in or out as it engages the of the side door. (See Illustration 538.)
catch, see Section 5.4.2 Adjusting Side
Note: Be careful not to chip the paint!
Sliding Door Handle.
b. If the top of the door is out of line with the
bottom, adjust the upper door guide (see
below).
c. If the door is loose or catches at the bottom,
adjust the lower door guide (see below).
3. Check the door action and adjust until it is
smooth. Rear of the door should not raise
during closing. The door front should not raise
while opening.
Adjusting Upper Door Guide (In and Out)
Illustration 538 Loosen Screws
1. Loosen the five nuts holding the upper door
track to the door jamb. (See Illustration 537.) 2. Adjust the bottom door guide all the way up
(into the plastic door track). (See Illustration
539.)
3. If the door scrapes or binds, push the guide
down slightly into the track.
Loosen to 4. Cycle the door open and then closed.
adjust track.
5. Tighten the screws along the bottom of the
side door.
Roller
Assembly
Pan Head
Screw
Plastic Door
Bottom Track
Door Aluminum
Guide Retainer
Illustration 537 Upper Door Cross Section
2. Adjust the track to move th edoor to the inside

or outside, depending on the alignment with the Illustration 539 Lower Door Cross Section
bottom of the door track.

5.5 Bulkhead Door
5.5.1 Removal
1. Use a #11 (3/16) drill bit to drill out the rivets

securing the lower door track to the door.
2. Drill out the rivets securing the door to the Striker
roller assembly.
3. Lift door up and out to remove.
5.5.2 Replacement
1. Reverse the removal procedure.

5.5.3 Latch Adjustment (Non-VACS vehicles)
1. Locate and loosen the two screws on the

Illustration 540 Bulkhead Door Latch (Cargo Side)
striker. ( See Illustration 540.)
2. Position the striker to align with the latch on
the bulkhead panel.
3. Holding the striker in this new position, tighten
the screws.
4. If the door still does not align, repeat the
procedure.
NOTE: You can make the door
close tighter with this adjustment.
5.5.4 Latch Adjustment (VACS vehicles)
1. Loosen the two bolts which attach the door

catch to the bulkhead. (See Illustration 541.)
2. Slide the bulkhead door into the closed Illustration 541 Bulkhead Door Latch on VACS
Vehicles (Cargo Side)
position.
3. Align the catch with the latch on the door per
Illustration 542.
4. While holding the catch in position, tighten the
two bolts to 79 ftlb.
5. Open and close door multiple times to ensure
proper operation. Repeat the process if
necessary.
Illustration 542 Proper Alignment of Bulkhead Door Latch

6.0 Hood
Fiberglas Seal
Gas Shock Assembly
Inner Hood Guide
Tube Grill
Turn Signal Light

Hood Guide
Hood Latch
Hood Bumper
Side Marker
Headlamp Side Reflector
Hood Prop
Hood Prop Rod Clip
Illustration 61 Hood Assembly
6.1 Hood Repair

6.1.1 Repair 6.1.2 Painting
Use this process if the hood has a hole, gouge, or 1. Remove the decals and hardware from the
scratches. affected area of the hood.
NOTE: Depending on the severity, a NOTE: Hood decals are applied in
cracked hood may not be repairable. sections. Remove only the decal section
from the affected area.
1. Purchase a fiberglass fender repair kit at an
auto supply store. 2. Remove all loose paint. Apply high air pressure
to affected areas to blow loose paint from the
2. Follow the kits surface preparation instruc-
hood.
tions carefully.
3. Use a D/A (Disk Air) sander with 220 grit
3. Touch up with paint.
sandpaper to sand the entire section to be
painted.

4. Using water, a granulated household cleaner 3. Lift up slightly on the clip. The spring will slide
(e.g., Spic and Span), and an abrasive pad off the ball stud.
(e.g., Scotch-Brite) wash the area to be
NOTE: Do not remove the clip from the
painted.
spring because it is difficult to reattach.
NOTE: As much as possible avoid getting
4. Repeat the same steps for the top of the spring.
lubricants, oils, marking pens, grease, and
aerosols from an air line on the hood. 6.2.2 Replacement
These materials have a tendency to soak
1. With the hood prop in position, snap the top of
into the substrate of the hood and interfere
spring onto the ball stud.
with paint performance.
2. Repeat for the bottom of the gas spring.
5. Rinse the surface thoroughly with water.
6. Mask the sections that will not be painted. 6.3 Hood Removal and Replacement
7. Prime the hood surface with an epoxy primer 6.3.2 Removal

(e.g., PPG DP 40 and catalyst DP 402). 1. Lift the hood and secure it with the hood prop.
8. Paint the surface with a standard automotive 2. Disconnect the hood gas springs. (See
paint. Section 6.2.1.)
9. Feather the edges where paint is missing. 3. Disconnect the hood wiring (2 places) from the
6.2 Gas Spring cowl harness. (See Illustration 63.)
6.2.1 Removal
1. Lift the hood and secure it with the hood prop.

2. Carefully insert a small flathead screwdriver
under the clip at the bottom of the gas spring.
Illustration 63 Hood Wiring
4. Loosen and remove the bolts on the hood

hinge working from the center out. Discard
locknuts.
5. While supporting the hood from both sides,
carefully remove the two outside 1/4-20 Torx®
screws and remove the hood away from the
Illustration 62 Releasing Gas Spring vehicle.
from Ball Socket

Lifting the hood too high can damage the wiper arms or even break the windshield. Use
extreme caution in this process.
Illustration 64 Use Torx® Screws to Center the Hood on the Truck Body
6.3.2 Replacement 4. Place a new two-way locknut and washer on

1. Position the hood on the front of the vehicle. the cowl side of each of these bolts. (You may
have to remove insulation to reach the bolts.)
2. Align the hood hinge holes with the holes on
the cowl. 5. Using a 7/16 wrench, hold the locknut while
tightening. Snug the bolts but do not tighten
3. Insert one Torx® screw with a washer in each completely.
outside hinge hole. Do not tighten completely.
(See Illustration 64.) 6. Lower the hood gently and check the alignment
with the fender guides. (See Illustration 65.)
Illustration 65 Connect Electrical Harnesses and Gas Springs

7. Check the hood to insure that it is centered on the structure.
NOTE: If the hood is not centered on the body, loosen the
hood hinge bolts and re-center the hood.
8. Lift both sides of the hood straight up simultaneously.
9. Tighten the two outside Torx® screws.
10. Install and tighten the remaining bolts across the hood hinges.
Be sure to use a new locknut and bolts.
11. Connect the headlight wire harnesses. (See Illustration 65.)
12. Attach the hood gas springs on either side. (See Section
6.2.)
13. Lower the hood again to check for the alignment of the hood
guide bumper with the hood guide bracket. (See Illustration
66.)
14. Adjust the hood guide bumper bracket front to back or side Illustration 66 Check Hood Alignment
to side by loosening the appropriate bracket bolts. (See
Illustration 67.)
Illustration 67 Hood Guide Bumper Bracket Adjustments

7.0 Seats and Seat Belts
7.1 Drivers Pedestal
7.1.1 Removal
1. Remove and discard the four (4) bolts attaching the

pedestal to the cabin floor. (See Illustrations 71, and
73 through 74.)
2. Remove the one (1) bolt attaching the seat belt to the
pedestal. (See Illustration 77.)
3. Pull out the pedestal seat.
7.1.2 Replacement

2. Replace fasteners with new Grade 5 or better and
torque them to 70 ftlbs.
7.2 Drivers Seat
Illustration 71 Four Bolts Attach 7.2.1 Removal

Seat Pedestal to Floor Base
1. Remove and discard the four (4) nuts attaching the
seat to the pedestal. (See Illustration 72.)
2. Pull off the seat from the pedestal.
7.2.2 Replacement

2. Replace fasteners with Grade 5 or better, and torque
them to 1214 ftlbs.
Illustration 72 Remove and Discard Four Locknuts

6
7
8
9
1
ITEM QTY PART TITLE
9 1 CAP
8 2 BOLT, 7/16-20 X 1-1/2 COLLAR
7 1 WASHER, 7/16 FLAT
6 2 NUT, 7/16-20 FLANGE
5 1 RETRACTOR ASSY, 145" BLACK
4 4 NUT, 1/2-13 TWO WAY LOCK
2 4 BOLT,1/2-13X 1-1/2 GRD 5 HEX
1 1 TYPE II SEAT ASSEMBLY
WARNING: READ VENDOR

INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY.
FAILURE TO INSTALL AND 2
INSPECT CAN RESULT IN 3
INJURY OR DEATH OF USER.
NOTE: DO NOT REMOVE CARDBOARD
4
SPACER UNTIL THE RETRACTOR IS
MOUNTED. THE RETRACTOR MUST BE
MOUNTED AT THE PROPER ANGLE
BEFORE WEB WILL FREELY EXTEND.
CARDBOARD SPACER MUST BE REMOVED

AFTER SEATBELT IS FULLY INSTALLED.
Illustration 73 Drivers Seat Installation

FAILURE TO INSTALL AND
INSPECT CAN RESULT IN


AFTER SEATBELT IS FULLY INSTALLED. 1
8 5
6
9
ITEM QTY PART TITLE
9 4 NUT, 5/16-18 HEX
8 4 WASHER, 5/16 SPIT LOCK
7 1 BUCKLE, SEATBELT
6 2 BOLT, 7/16-20 X 1-1/2
4 - PEDESTAL, TILT
3 2 NUT, 7/16-20 FLANGE
2 1 RETRACTOR ASSY 145" BLACK
1 1 SEAT, HIGH BACK
Illustration 74 Drivers Seat Installation

7.3 Seat Belt Maintenance
7.3.1 Important Facts
Your occupant restraint system has been developed and tested specifically for delivery vehicles. The high usage
associated with delivery vehicle application and exposure of this seat belt to severe environmental conditions
make it crucial to inspect the three-point seat belt system regularly. The seat belt system must be inspected
during every routine maintenance.
A seat belt system should be replaced immediately if it shows any problem such as cuts, fraying, extreme or
unusual wear, significant discolorations due to ultraviolet exposure, significant dirt, abrasion to the seat belt
webbing, or damage to the buckle, latch plate, retractor, or hardware.
Replace the seat belt only with a belt recommended by Utilimaster. If any part of the seat belt requires replace-
ment, the entire belt must be replaced.
An installation guide is attached to every replacement belt. If the seat belt is replaced, all components must be
mounted back in the same position as the original components. This will maintain the design integrity of the
mounting points for the seat belt assembly.
Belts must be inspected during every routine maintenance. Failure to properly inspect and
maintain the seat belts can cause serious injury or loss of life. The seat belt in a delivery
vehicle application has a finite life and must be replaced as needed throughout the life of
the vehicle.
Whenever a vehicle is involved in an accident, the entire seat belt system must be evalu-
ated for possible replacement, even if there is no visible wear or damage to the seat belt
system.
7.3.2 Maintenance Guidelines

Web cut, frayed, or
The following maintenance guidelines detail how to worn at latch area
inspect seat belts. If any of these problem conditions
are found, the entire seat belt system must be replaced.
7.3.2.1 Seat Belt Webbing
Examine seat belt webbing in the seat system for cuts,

frays, extreme or unusual wear, significant dirt, or
extreme faded color due to exposure to ultraviolet
rays. (See Illustration 75.)
7.3.2.2 D-Loop Web Guide
The D-Loop Web Guide is an area where there is a

significant amount of webbing movement in a delivery
vehicle during the use of the seat belt system. If the
web is cut or frayed at the D-Loop Web Guide, the
Illustration 75 Latch Plate Wear
entire belt system must be replaced. (See Illustration
76.)

7.3.2.3 Retractor System
The retractor, the heart of the occupant restraint

Web cut, frayed, or system, contains a locking mechanism and serves as a
worn at D-Loop guide. storage device for the webbing when not in use.
Check the retractor web storage device operation to
ensure that it is not locked up. The seat belt webbing
must spool out freely and retract properly.
The drivers ELR (Emergency Locking Retractor) belt
system is sensitive to sudden decelerations of the
Illustration 76 D-Loop Wear vehicle. The companions belt ALR (Automatic
Locking Retractor) system is sensitive to sudden pulls
on the beltif it locks, release the belt, let it retract,
and slowly pull it out again.
7.3.2.4 Seat Belt Buckle
Buckle cracked Check the buckle for proper operation by inserting the
or broken latch and listening for an audible click. Verify that the
buckle is not damaged and that the plastic casing is not
broken or cracked. Examine the seat belt buckle
cable strap to determine if there is unusual wear, the
cable is damaged, or if the cable is cut or frayed. (See
Illustration 77.)
7.3.2.5 Buckle Latch Plate
Check the buckle latch plate for excessive wear.

Make sure that the buckle latch is neither bent nor
deformed. It must latch properly into the buckle.
7.3.2.6 Seat Belt Height Adjuster
Damaged or Check the height adjuster for proper operation,
frayed cable making sure that there is no damage. If the height
adjuster does not move up and down freely and lock
at different height positions, the seat belt must be
replaced.
Illustration 77 Buckle Wear

When a seat belt is replaced, both halves must
be replaced.
7.4 Drivers Seat Belt

The outboard side refers to the side closest to the window. The
inboard side is the side toward the center of the vehicle.
7.4.1 Removal
1. Remove the bolt attaching the D-ring to the seat belt

mount above the seat on the outboard side. (See
Illustration 78.)
2. Snap open the retractor cover and remove the bolt.
Discard the locknut. (See Illustration 79.) Illustration 78 D-Ring Attached to
3. Remove the bolt holding the seat belt end bracket Seat Belt Mount
attached to the outboard side of the seat. See Illustration
710.)
4. On the inboard side of the seat, remove the bolt holding
the seat belt (buckle) assembly.
Use the new mounting hardware furnished with

the replacement belt. Do not use old hardware
when installing replacement seat belts.
7.4.2 Replacement Illustration 79 Retractor Uncovered

NOTE: Do not remove the cardboard spacer until the
retractor is mounted and seat belt is fully installed,
otherwise the belt will retract and bind.
1. Mount the seat belt D-ring in the existing hole in the seat belt
mounting bracket. Torque bolt from 35 to 50 ftlbs. (See
Illustration 78.)
NOTE: When installed, the D-ring must rotate freely.
The D-ring must return to the horizontal position when
the belt is retracted.
2. Snap open the retractor cover and insert the locating pin at
the back of the retractor into the mounting bracket in the
bulkhead wall.
NOTE: The retractor must be located in the proper
position on the bracket for the seat belt web to extract
and function properly. Illustration 710 Safety Belt End Bracket

3. Insert the retractor mounting bolt and tighten
the bolt to 3550 ftlb.
4. Snap the retractor cover down into place.
5. Mount the safety belt end bracket in the
existing hole on the seat pedestal. Torque bolt
from 35 to 50 ftlbs. (See Illustration 711.)
6. Mount the seat belt (buckle) assembly on the
inboard side of the seat with the release button
facing away from the seated driver. Torque
bolt from 35 to 50 ftlbs. (See Illustration 7
8.)
NOTE: The seat belt assembly should be at
an angle of approximately 50° + 10°
upward off the horizontal.
Illustration 711 Seat Belt (Buckle) Assembly
7.5 Jump Seat

7.5.1 Removal
1. From the cargo area using the proper wrench, brace the two-way locknuts attaching the jump seat
back, and remove the 1/420 screws attaching the back to the bulkhead. Discard the screws and
locknuts. (See Illustrations 712 and 713.).
2. Remove and discard the 3/820 bolts and locknuts attaching the jump seat to the bulkhead.
7.5.2 Replacement
1. Attach the left- and right-hand seat brackets using new (Grade 5 or better) two-way fasteners.
2. Align the jump seat with holes on the bulkhead and attach with new 3/816 bolts and (Grade 5 or
better) two-way locknuts.
3. Torque fasteners to 2832 ftlbs.
4. Align the jump seat back with holes on the bulkhead and attach with 1/420 screws.
5. Torque fasteners to 89 ftlbs.

3
4
5
2
6
7 1
ITEM QTY PART TITLE
13 1 NUT, 7/16-20 FLANGE
12 2 MOUNT, SEATBELT, 3-PT
11 4 BOLT,3/8-16 X 1-1/4 HEX GRD 5
10 1 WASHER, 7/16
9 1 BUCKLE, SEATBELT
8 4 NUT, 3/8-16 2-WAY LOCK Z
7 1 JUMPSEAT ASSY 16" MINI
6 - SCREW, 1/4-20 X 1 PHIL TRUSS
5 1 CUSHION
4 1 D-LOOP
3 1 BOLT, 7/16-20 X 1-1/2 COLLAR

8
2 1 NUT, 7/16-20 FLANGE
1 - BULKHEAD INSTALLATION
14
11
9 10 12
13
Illustration 712 Jump Seat Installation

FAILURE TO INSTALL AND
INSPECT CAN RESULT IN


AFTER SEATBELT IS FULLY INSTALLED.
18
19 ITEM QTY PART TITLE
22 1 BOLT, 7/16-20 X 1
21 2 NUT, 7/16-20 FLANGE
19 1 BOLT, 7/16-20 X 1-1/2

20
18 1 CAP
21 21
22
Illustration 713 Jump Seat Installation

When a seat belt is replaced, both halves
must be replaced.
7.6 Jump Seat Belts

The outboard side refers to the side closest to the window
(jump seat occupants right-hand side). The inboard side is
the side toward the center of the vehicle.
7.6.1 Removal
1. Remove the bolt attaching the D-ring to the bulk-

head above the seat on the outboard side.
2. Snap open the retractor cover and remove the bolt.
Discard the locknut.
3. Remove the bolt holding the seat belt end bracket to
the seat belt mount just below the seat on the
outboard side. (See Illustration 714.)
4. On the inboard side of the seat, remove the bolt
holding the seat belt (buckle) assembly.
Illustration 714 End Bracket Attached to
Selt Belt Mount
Use the new mounting hardware furnished with the replacement belt. Do not use old
hardware when installing replacement safety belts.
7.6.2 Replacement
NOTE: Do not remove the cardboard spacer until the retractor is mounted and seat belt is fully
installed. Otherwise the belt will retract and bind.
1. Remount the seat belt D-ring using the existing hole in the bulkhead.
NOTE: When installed, the D-ring must rotate freely. The D-ring must return to the
horizontal position when the belt is retracted.
2. Snap open the retractor cover and insert the locating pin at the back of the retractor into the mounting
bracket in the bulkhead wall.
NOTE: The retractor must be located in the proper position on the bracket for the seat belt web
to extract and function properly.
3. Insert the mounting bolt and tighten the nut to 3250 ftlb.
4. Snap the retractor cover down into place.
5. Mount the seat belt end bracket to the seat belt mount below the seat on the outboard side. (See
Illustration 714.)

6. Tighten the nut to 3550 ftlb.
7. Mount the seat belt (buckle) assembly on the
inboard side of the seat with the release button
facing away from the occupant. Torque bolt from
35 to 50 ftlbs. (See Illustration 715.)
NOTE: The seat belt assembly should be at an
angle of approximately 50° + 10° upward off
the horizontal.
Illustration 715 Selt Belt (Buckle) Assembly

8.0 Heating System
Defroster Duct
Transition Duct
Clamp
Shut Off Valve Louvers

Flexible
Heat Duct Hose
Controller He
Fresh Air Inlet
at
(Heat only) On
ly
Wire Harness
Heater Coil
Air Plenum Inlet
Heater Hose
Blower Inlet Duct

Heater Plenum
Floor Duct
Blower Blower
Motor Wheel Housing
Left Floor Duct
Illustration 81 Heating System (Heat Only)

8.1 Blower Motor 8.2 Heater Resistor
8.1.1 Removal 8.2.1 Removal
1. Disconnect the battery negative (black) cable. 1. Disconnect the battery negative (black) cable.
2. Remove the electrical connections from the 2. Remove the resistor cover plate.
blower motor.
3. Remove the electrical connections from the
3. Remove the blower motor vent tube. resistor assembly.
4. Remove the blower motor assembly from the 4. Remove the resistor assembly.
housing.
8.2.2 Replacement
5. Remove the blower wheel retaining nut.
1. Position the new resistor.
NOTE: Nut threads are standard right-
2. Attach with screws, and torque from 12 to 15
hand threads.
inlbs.
6. Remove the blower wheel from the blower
3. Attach the electrical connections.
motor.
4. Install the resistor cover plate.
7. Remove the blower wheel stop (clip) from the
motor shaft. 5. Connect the battery negative (black) cable.
8.1.2 Replacement
1. Install the blower wheel stop on the new

motor.
2. Install the blower wheel.
3. Install the retaining nut and torque it to 25
inlbs.
4. Position the blower assembly in the housing.
5. Attach with screws, and torque them to 12 to
15 inlbs.
6. Attach the electrical connector.
7. Reattach the blower motor vent tube.
8. Connect the battery negative (black) cable
and check the blower motor for proper
operation. Illustration 82 Disconnecting Blower Motor

9.0 Lights and Wiring
9.1 Wiring
9.1.1 General
See the Aeromaster on Navistar International ChassisBody Wiring Manual (P/N 03101939) for general
wiring schematics.
9.1.2 VACS
If the vehicle is equipped with the Vehicle Access Control System (VACS), see the Vehicle Access Controls
System for Utilimaster Walk-In Vans Operation and Service Manual (P/N 03102103).
9.2 Battery
The battery is located underneath a step in the right-hand stepwell.
9.2.1 Removal
1. Make sure the ignition switch is

Off.
2. Unhook the latches and flip up the
battery panel on the right hand
stepwell.
3. Disconnect the battery cables
starting at the battery negative
(black).
4. Remove both positive (red) cables.
NOTE: The two positive cables
(feed and jumper) are doubled at
the most rearward battery.
5. Remove the batterys hold down.
Illustration 91 Battery Access in the Right Stepwell
6. Remove the battery from the
vehicle.
9.1.2 Replacement
1. Install the battery in the battery tray. (See Illustration 91.)

2. Install the battery hold down.
3. When reattaching the positive (red) cables, the doubling of the two cables must be on the rearward
battery.
4. Connect the negative (black) cables.
5. Close the panel in the stepwell and hook the latches.

9.3 Headlight Replacement and Adjustment
(See also the FedEx Ground Body Parts Manual (P/N 03102305).
9.3.1 Replacement
1. Turn off the ignition and all lights.

2. Open the hood and raise the hood support rod.
3. Disconnect the electrical harness from the back of
the headlight unit. (See Illustration 92.)
4. With a Phillips-head screwdriver, remove the four (4)
retaining screws and nuts from the retaining ring.
5. Remove the used headlight unit from the retaining
ring.
6. Place the new headlight unit in the retaining ring.
7. Secure the four (4) retaining screws, and torque the
Illustration 92 Disconnecting Headlight Unit
nuts from 12 to 18 inlbs.
8. Reconnect the electrical harness at the back of the
headlight unit.
9.3.2 Adjustment
1. Remove any load the vehicle is carrying.

2. The vehicle should have approximately a half tank of
fuel.
3. Check that the tires are properly inflated to 110
P.S.I.
4. Clean the headlights if they are dirty.
Illustration 93 Headlight Retaining Screws 5. Park the vehicle on a level surface.
6. Use a headlight-aiming tool to gauge correct align-
ment of the headlights. Follow the manufacturers
instructions for the device as needed. (If no head-
light-aiming tool is available, perform steps 8 through
11 as a temporary solution until a tool can be ob-
tained.)
7. Turn the adjuster screws to move the headlights up
or down and left or right as necessary. (See Illustra-
tion 94.)
8. If no headlight-aiming tool is available, park the
vehicle on a level surface near a wall, and mark the
point opposite the center of each headlight.
Illustration 94 Headlight Adjusting Screws

9. Draw or tape a cross through each mark.
10. Park the vehicle a distance (measured from the headlight) of 25 feet from the wall.
11. Adjust the low-beam headlights so that the majority of the beam is below the horizontal target marks
and centered on the vertical target marks. (See Illustrations 95 and 96.)
NOTE: Steps 8 through 11 should be used only until a properly calibrated headlight-
aiming tool can be obtained.
Illustration 95 Improperly Aligned Pattern Illustration 96 Properly Aligned Pattern
9.4 Forward Turn Signal Light

2. Open the hood.
3. Disconnect the electrical harness at the
back of the turn signal light unit.
4. Push the light unit through the grommet from
the rear.
5. Replace the unit by pushing it through the
front (on the outside) of the grommet.
6. Reattach the electrical harness at the back
of the unit.
Illustration 97 Forward Turn Signal

9.5 Front Side Marker Light
2. Lightly spray the outer grommet and marker
light surface with soapy water to ease the
removal of the marker light unit.
3. Slip the chisel point of a flathead screwdriver
under the inner lip of the grommet to pry the
marker light up so that it can be pulled out of
the grommet. (See Illustration 98.)
4. Disconnect the old light unit from the electrical
harness.
5. Check the rear (inside the hood) of the grom-
met before installing the new light and adjust Illustration 98 Front Side Marker Light
the grommet, if necessary.
NOTE: The slit on the rear of the grommet
must be pointed down when the hood is
closed to allow water to drain.
6. Lightly spray the grommet again with soapy
water.
7. Plug the new light unit into the harness.
8. Replace the light unit by pushing it through the
front of the grommet (on the outside).
NOTE: The metal bars inside the light unit
must be parallel with the ground.
9.6 Clearance Lights (Rear, Side, and Front) Illustration 99 Front Clearance Light
2. Use a medium-sized Phillips screwdriver to
remove the two outside (8 x 1) screws
attaching the light unit to the vehicle.
NOTE: The light unit is a sealed unit and
must be replaced as a unit.
3. Disconnect the light unit from the electrical
harness.
4. Connect the new light unit and attach it to the
vehicle using two 8 x 1 Phillips head screws.
Illustration 910 Rear Clearance Light

9.7 Taillights (Brake, Back-up, Hazard, and
Turn)
2. Slip the chisel point of a flathead screwdriver
under the inner lip of the outside grommet to pry
the light unit up so that it can be pulled out of the
grommet. (See Illustration 98.)
3. Disconnect the old light unit from the electrical
harness at the back of the unit.
4. Plug in the new light unit.
5. Replace the unit by pushing it through the outside
(front) of the grommet.
9.8 License Plate Light

Illustration 911 Taillights
2. Pinch the lens from the sides just enough to
pop the lens off the light fixture. (See Illustra-
tion 912.)
3. With a half turn, remove the old bulb.
4. Replace the bulb.
5. Snap the lens back into place.
9.9 Dome (Cab) Light

2. Remove the three Phillips head screws holding
Illustration 912 License Plate Light
the dome light lens and remove the lens. (See
Illustration 913.)
3. Remove the bulb with a half turn.
4. Place the new bulb in the light fixture.
5. Use three Phillips head screws to reattach the
lens.
Illustration 913 Cab (Dome) Light.

9.10 Cargo Lights
2. Reach behind the cargo light unit and push the unit
through the grommet (toward the floor). (See
Illustration 914.)
4. Disconnect the old light from the electrical harness
at the back of the unit.
5. Place the new light unit above the cargo light
bracket and reach through to plug the new light in
the harness. Illustration 914 Cargo Light
6. Push the light unit through the grommet (toward

the floor) just enough to seat the unit in the grom-
met.

9.11 Cargo Area Light Switch
1. Disconnect the negative (black) terminal of the
battery.
2. Pop off the actuator cover.
3. Use the chisel point of a small flathead screw-
driver to depress either the top or the bottom
tab on the switch body to free it from the
switch bracket. (See Illustration 916.)
4. Identify and tag the wires at the back of the
switch body so that they can be reconnected in
the same order on the new switch body as on
the old. (See CAUTION, this page.)
Illustration 915 Cargo Area Light Switch
5. Remove the wires from the back of the switch
body.
6ZLWFK%RG\ $FWXDWRU
6. Plug in the wires into the back of the new
switch.
'HWDFK $FWXDWRU6QDSV
7. Reconnect the battery. +DUQHVV RQ6ZLWFK%RG\
8. Test the repair by turning the dash panel and

the cargo area switches on and off to make
sure the three-way switch system functions 6TXHH]H7DEVWR5HOHDVH
6ZLWFK%RG\IURP%UDFNHWRU%H]HO
properly.
Illustration 916 Switch Components
9.12 Dash Switch (Cargo, Dome)

1. Disconnect the negative (black) terminal of the On three-way switches the order in
battery. which the wires connect with the
switch are very important. Failure to
2. Remove the cover of the instrument panel. reconnect properly will cause the
(See Section 10.6.1.) three-way switch system to fail.
3. Identify and tag the wires at the back of the

switch body so that they can be reconnected in
the same order on the new switch body as on
6. Pop off the actuator.
the old. (See CAUTION, this page.)
7. Snap the new actuator onto the new switch
4. Remove the wires from the back of the switch
body, and then reverse the above procedure.
body.
8. Reconnect the battery.
5. Squeeze the top and bottom of the switch
body to remove it from the panel. 9. Test the function of the switch.

10.0 Miscellaneous Repairs
10.1 Grab Handle
NOTE: Grab handles require stainless steel fasteners.
This vehicle has two exterior grab handles (one at each side sliding door on
the interior front door pillars). On non-VACS vehicles, a third grab handle
is on the bulkhead door on the cab side. They are all removed and re-
placed in the same manner.
10.1.1 Removal
1. While holding the handle, remove the four (4) stainless steel Phillips
head fasteners from the handle.
2. Handle should release into your hand. See Illustration 101.
10.1.2 Replacement
1. While holding the new handle in place, use four (4) stainless steel
fasteners to attach it to the door.
NOTE: Use stainless steel fasteners for all exterior Illustration 101 Grab Handles
handles.
10.2 Side Vent

10.2.1 Removal
1. From the exterior of the vehicle, using a #11 (or 3/16") drill bit,
remove the rivets securing the vent (be sure to remove all of the
rivets).
2. Remove the vent.
3. Remove any excess sealant from vent mounting area.
4. Clean with a lacquer-based solvent.
10.2.2 Replacement
1. Apply sealant around the vent flange that will face the outside of the
vehicle.
2. Align the vent with the holes in the vent and the quarter panel.
3. Attach the vent using rivets.
4. From the exterior, apply a bead of sealant to the joint between the
vent and the wall.
Illustration 102 Side Vent

10.3 Sun Visor
10.3.1 Removal
NOTE: The sun visor arms and pad are

replaced as a unit. (See Illustration 103.)
1. Drill out the pop rivets on the overhead
storage cover. (See Illustration 104.)
2. Using a wrench, hold the two-way locknut on
the top of the shelf.
3. While holding the sun visor, locate and
remove the four (4) 1/420 flathead Phillips
screws. (See Illustration 105.)
10.3.2 Replacement Illustration 103 Sun Visor Unit
1. Using the existing holes in the shelf, position

the new sun visor assembly and attach with
the four (4) 1/420 flathead Phillips screws
and new bolts and two-way locknuts.
2. Reattach overhead storage cover.
Illustration104 Remove Overhead Cover

to Gain Access to Sun Visor Fasteners
Illustration 105 Each Arm has Two Fasteners

10.4 Mirrors
10.4.1 Removal
1. Remove the four (4) Phillips panhead screws (two each on

the upper and the lower brackets). Discard the locknuts.
10.4.2 Replacement
1. Using new locknuts, replace two (2) stainless steel Phillips

panhead screws each in the upper and lower brackets.
NOTE: Do not reuse two-way locknutsuse new ones.
Use stainless steel fasteners on the exterior to mount
mirrors.
Illustration 106 Side Mirror
Illustration 107 Use Stainless Steel

Fasteners on the Exterior

10.5 Rear Kazoo Drain Valves
10.5.1 Cleaning
Clean the rubber Kazoo drain valves in the rear cargo floor corner periodically to ensure that the drain is not
blocked by debris or dirt and is able to drain properly. (See Illustration 108.)
From the interior of the vehicle, use a small pointed tool, such as a pen or small screwdriver, to gently
poke down through the drain.
Or, from underneath the
vehicle, you can
squeeze the wide
section on the bottom to
open the lips and
Gently insert
release any accumula- pointed tool
tion that did not drain through drain
top (from inside
normally. cargo area)
10.5.2 Removal
Or squeeze bottom
1. From underneath the "lip" edges to release
accumulation (from
vehicle, drill out two (2) underneath vehicle)
pop rivets. (See Illustration 108 Kazoo Drain

Illustration 109.)
2. Remove drain valve Clean the "Kazoo" drains
assembly. in the rear cargo floor corners
10.5.3 Replacement
1. Position new drain valve assembly.

2. Pop rivet into place.
Underneath
the Vehicle
Illustration 109 Kazoo Drain Installation

Disconnect negative terminal on battery
before working underneath the dash.
10.6 Dash Panel

10.6.1 Removal
1. Disconnect the negative (black) terminal on the

battery.
2. Remove and set aside the seven instrument
panel screws (three on each side and one
centered on the top) that hold the instrument
panel face plate to the dash. (See Illustration Illustration 1010 Location
1010.) of Instrument Panel Screws
3. Disconnect the wire harnesses behind the
instrument panel and set the panel aside for
later reassembly.
4. Remove the four screws holding the heater
control module to the dash. (See Illustration
1011.)
5. Disconnect the wires at the back of the heater
control module so the module can be removed
from the dash. Set aside the module with the
screws for later reassembly.
6. Remove the four screws holding the wiper/
washer control module to the dash. (See
Illustration 1012.) Illustration 1011 Disconnect
Heater Control Module
7. Disconnect the wires at the back of the wiper/
washer control module. Set aside all compo-
nents for later reassembly.
Illustration 1012 Disconnect Washer/Wiper

Module, Lights and Cruise Control

Illustration 1013 Location of
Screws on the Left Side of the Dash
8. Remove the Phillips head screw on the left

side of the dash. (See Illustration 1013.) Illustration 1014 Location of Screws and Bolt on the
Right Side of the Dash on VACS-equipped Vehicles
9. Remove the four Phillips head screws
holding the right-hand cable cover (in
VACS-equipped vehicles, the section that
holds the VACS ignition module). (See
Illustration 1014.)
10. Remove the two Phillips head screws above
the steering column and the three Phillips
head screws in the lower right corner of the
dash. (See Illustration 1015.)
11. Remove the 1/420 bolt and NeoBond®
washer at the upper right corner of the dash.
12. Lift the dash up by the base and reach under
the dash to disconnect the two air ventilation
Illustration 1015 Location of Screws and Bolt on the
hoses from the plenum. Remove the hoses
Right Side of the Dash on Vehicles without VACS Units.
and the dash, and set aside for later reas-
sembly.
13. Disconnect the headlight and cruise control 14. Disconnect the cargo and dome lights, identify
wire connectors (on the left side) from the and tag the connectors at the back of the switch
back of the dash panel. (See Illustration 10 bodies so that they can be reconnected in the
12.) same order. (See CAUTION, this page.)
15. Remove the wires from the back of the cargo and
On three-way switches the order in dome light switch bodies.
which the wires connect with the
switch are very important. Failure to 16. Remove the dash panel.
reconnect properly will cause the
three-way switch system to fail.

10.6.2 Replacement
1. With the ventilation hoses still connected to the dash, place the dash over the area behind the steering
wheel and reach under the dash to reconnect the ventilation hoses to the plenum.
2. Reconnect the heater control and reattach the module to the dash.
3. Reattach the wire connectors to the headlight, cargo and dome light switches, and the cruise control
switches.
4. Reconnect the wires and controls at the back of the wiper/washer control module and reattach the
module to the dash.
5. Reattach the wire harnesses to the instrument panel and mount the panel back on the dash.
6. Replace the rubber well nut in the upper right corner of the dash, and make sure all wires are safely
tucked back under the dash.
7. Remount the dash by partially tightening the 1/420 bolt in the upper right corner
8. Partially tighten the #8 self-tapping screw in the upper left corner.
NOTE: In the following steps, take care to not strip the self-tapping screws when remounting
the dash.
9. Reconnect the VACS ignition control module.
10. Using four #8 self-tapping screws, remount the right-hand cable cover (in VACS-equipped vehicles, the
section that holds the VACS ignition module). (See Illustration 1014.)
11. Complete the remounting of the dash panel by installing the remaining two #8 self-tapping screws above
the steering column and the remaining three #8 self-tapping screws to the lower right of the steering
column.
10. Snug, but do not overtighten, the 1/420 bolt in the upper right corner and the screw in the upper left
corner.
11. Reconnect the negative (black) terminal on the battery.

11.0 Body Repairs
Caution: Removal of roof cap could result in roof leaks. If a vehicle requires major roof or
structural repair, check with Utilimaster for recommendation on returning the vehicle to
Utilimaster, or repairing damage at a body shop. Use a fiberglass repair kit (such as P/N
01900680) for most other repairs.
Corner
Castings
End Cap
Translucent
Roof Panel
Roof Cap
Side Cap
C-channel
Side Channel (LH)
Cab Roof Liner

Roof Bow
Corner
Gusset
End Rail
Cargo
Light
Mount
Cab Shelf Cover
Cargo Light
(FRONT)
Roof Rail
Illustration 111 Roof Assembly

Illustration 112 Location of C-channel Rivet Illustration 113 Location of C-channel Rivet
(Cab Area, Right Side) (Cab Area, Left Side)
11.1 Roof Cap

11.1.1 Removal
NOTE: Read all instructions before

starting work.
1. From the cab side of the bulkhead panel,
use a #11 (or 3/16") drill bit to drill out the
two rivets holding the ends of the C-channel.
(See Illustrations 112 and 113.)
2. From the right-hand (cargo) side of the
bulkhead panel, remove the Torx® screw at
the bottom of the right-side channel. (See
Illustration 114.) Illustration 114 Location of Torx® Screw
(Cargo Area, Right Side)
3. Drill out the rivet at the top end of the right-
side channel. (See Illustration 115.)
4. Remove the right-side channel.
Illustration 115 Location of C-channel Rivet

(Cargo Area, Right Side)

5. On the left-hand side of the bulkhead, remove
the rivet and the Torx® screw at the bottom of
the left-side channel. (See Illustration 116.)
6. Drill out the rivet at the top end of the left-side
channel, and remove both the left-side channel
and the C-channel to expose the monobolts
holding the roof cap.
7. Remove the roof cap monobolts. (See
Section 2.2.3.)
NOTE: Be careful not to enlarge the hole
when drilling out the monobolt or youll
have to use another type of fastener when
replacing the cap.
Illustration 116 Location of Fasteners
(Cargo Area, Left Side) 8. Remove the two cab reinforcement pillars by
drilling out the rivets attaching the pillars to the
C-channel and the header. (See Illustration
117.)
9. Unhook the cab light from its electrical wiring.
10. Remove the screws and nuts on the sides of
the cap. (See Illustration 118.)
11. Remove the mirrors on both sides. (See
Section 10.4.)
Illustration 117 Remove Cab

Reinforcement Pillars
Illustration 118 Removing Roof Cap

12. Drill out the rivets holding the cap B-post on both
sides and remove the post. (See Illustration 119.)
13. On the inside cab, remove the pins and collars in the
sides and front of the cap. (See Illustration 1110.)
14. Drill out the rivets holding the cab shelf cover, and
remove the cover. (See Illustration 1110.)
15. Unplug the clearance light harness.
16. To ease roof cap removal, cut sealant and butyl tape
(above the bulkhead panel) with a utility knife wher-
ever possible.
17. Pry cap off with care to avoid damage to the fiber-
glass cap.
Illustration 119 Removing the B-Post
Illustration 1110 Removing Roof Cap Fasteners

and Electrical Harness

APPLY A MINIMUM 1/8"
UNBROKEN BEAD
OF URETHANE SEALANT
AROUND THE ENTIRE APPLY BUTYL TAPE WITH FRONT EDGE
PERIMETER THAT IS NOT FLUSH WITH THE FRONT
COVERED BY THE TAPE. EDGE OF THE ROOF SKIN
APPLY EDGE OF TAPE

TO BE TANGENT WITH
THE SIDECAP RADIUS.
URETHANE SEALANT
TO BE APPLIED AT
LEAST 1/4" THICK IN
THIS AREA ON BOTH
SIDES.
Illustration 1111 Replacing Roof Cap
11.1.2 Replacement 4. Cut the ends of the tape flush with the sidecap
1. Scrape off dried sealant. radius, and remove the tape paper.
2. Clean the sealant areas with a lacquer-based NOTE: Once the tape sticks to a surface
cleaner, and allow to dry. you will not be able to reposition it with-
out starting over.
3. Apply the 1-1/2-inch-wide butyl adhesive
tape (P/N 12605849) with the front edge flush 5. Apply urethane sealant at least 1/8 thick
with the front edge of the roof skin. (See around the perimeter (in the areas not covered
Illustrations 111 and 1111.) by butyl adhesive tape) where the roof cap will
come in contact with the frame.
NOTE: Apply urethane sealant at least 1/4
thick in the areas at either end of the butyl
adhesive tape.

6. Position the roof cap on top of the cab by 18. Inside the cab, secure the ends of the C-
fitting the front of the cap to the front of the channel with monobolts.
windshield header, then pull out both sides just
19. Reconnect the cab light, and replace the two
enough to allow the roof cap to clear the sides
cab reinforcement pillars using monobolts.
without smearing the sealant.
20. Using new locknuts and stainless steel Phillips
NOTE: Pull sides out only as far as
panhead screws, replace the side mirrors.
necessary to seat cap and not crack the
fiberglass. NOTE: Do not reuse two-way locknutsuse
new ones. Use stainless steel fasteners on
7. Using sixteen (16) monobolts, reattach the
the exterior to mount mirrors.
roof cap to the windshield header by setting
fasteners in the center and sides first, then the 21. After an eighthour waiting period, water test
remaining fasteners. the roof. With all doors and windows closed
tightly, spray the roof and the top of the side
8. Apply pressure across the area of the tape seal
structures near the affected area with water.
(above the bulkhead panel) by hand or by
Check for leaks.
roller to firmly adhere the tape to the roof cap.
22. Reseal if any leaks appear, then water test
9. Using fifteen (15) monobolts, reattach the roof
again until vehicle passes leak test.
cap to the bulkhead panel by setting fasteners
in the center and sides first, then the remaining
fasteners.
10. Attach the sides at the back of the roof cap
using four (4) pin and collar fasteners per side.
11. Using twelve (12) new 1/420 x 1-1/8
Phillips stainless steel screws and locknuts (six
on each side), reattach the sides of the roof
cap to the sliding door header.
12. Apply a 1/2 bead of urethane sealant along
the rear edge of the cap, around the corners
and down the sides.
13. Apply 5/16 bead of urethane sealant along
the edge of the side cap, and to all edges of
the cap not already sealed.
14. Reattach the cap B-post using monobolts.
15. Inside the cab, reconnect the clearance lights
to the electrical harness.
16. Reattach the cab shelf cover using monobolts.
17. In the cargo area, replace the C-channel and
the two side channels using a monobolt and a
Torx® screw for the left-hand side channel and
a Torx screw for the right-hand side channel.

11.2 Corner Castings
11.2.1 Removal
1. Remove the rivets on the roofs side and end

caps (not the rails) using a #11 (or 3/16) drill
bit and drill.
2. Using a utility knife, cut the sealant around the
casting. Pull off the casting.
11.2.2 Replacement
1. Scrape off the old sealant and clean the

bonding surface with a lacquer-based solvent.
2. While holding the corner caps in place, rivet
the side and end caps using the same rivet
holes. Illustration 1112 Roof Cross Section
NOTE: For new casting, drill new holes 4. Remove the roof cap. (See Section 11.1.)
using the old casting as a model.
5. Remove each rivet securing the roof panel to
3. Apply a bead of sealant where the cap at- the side and end rails.
taches to the roof.
6. Remove the translucent outer fiberglass panel
4. Seal the perimeter of the corner castings. (some prying may be required to break loose
the panel from the roof bows).
5. After an eighthour waiting period, water test
the roof. With all doors and windows closed NOTE: Use of a heat gun will help break
tightly, spray the roof and the top of the side the adhesive bond holding the translucent
structures near the affected area with water. panel to the roof bows and rails.
Check for leaks.
11.3.2 Replacement
11.3 Exterior Roof Panel 1. Scrape the rails, caps, and roof bows to
remove the old sealant.
NOTE: The entire roof panel is translucent
sheathing. Utilimaster recommends the use 2. Clean the sealant areas with a lacquer-based
of a fiberglass patch kit (P/N 01900680) cleaner and allow to dry.
where possible. NOTE: For steps 3 and 4, do not remove
11.3.1 Removal the tape paper until the panel is in the
proper position. Once the tape sticks to a
1. Using a #11 (or 3/16") drill bit, remove the surface you will not be able to reposition it
rivets on the side and end caps (not the rails). without starting over.
NOTE: Be sure to remove all of the rivet 3. Apply the half-inch-wide adhesive tape (P/N
during these steps. 12605933) on all the roof bows.
2. Remove the corner castings. (See Section 4. Apply the one-inch-wide adhesive tape (P/N
11.2.) 12605927) around the roof perimeter on the
3. Remove the side caps. (See Illustration 11 side extrusion rails and the front and rear end
12). rails.

5. Peel off just a few inches of the tape paper at NOTE: Read all instructions prior to
each tape end of the roof perimeter. starting.
6. Peel off just a few inches of the tape paper at 1. Identify the damaged area.
each end of the roof bows.
2. Using 60 grit sandpaper, sand an area equal to
7. Lay down the new translucent panel. the size of the patch. The (typical) patch is 12
x 12. Sand until the embossment is no longer
NOTE: As you are lowering the panel,
visible and the area has a uniform dull appear-
make sure you can reach (from the interior
ance. Remove the sanding dust from the patch
or the exterior) the peeled-off paper on
area with a dry cloth or shop air.
every tape strip.
3. On the back side of the damaged area, apply
8. Carefully pull out all the remaining tape paper.
masking tape or packing tape to seal the repair
9. Apply pressure around the perimeter (by hand area. This prevents air from entering the patch
or preferably with a roller) to firmly adhere the from the back side.
tape to the roof.
4. Take the repair bag and open it by cutting the
10. While holding the corner caps in place, rivet edges of the foil pouch.
the side and end caps using the same rivet
NOTE: Do not open the pouch until you
holes.
are ready to use it. The material begins to
11. Apply a bead of sealant where the cap at- cure as soon as it is exposed to sunlight.
taches to the roof.
5. Remove the smooth film from the back side of
12. Replace the roof cap. (See Section 11.1.) the patch.
13. Seal the corner castings. 6. Lay the smooth side of the patch over the
abraded area on the exterior side of the roof so
14. After an eight-hour waiting period, water-test
the embossed side of the patch is facing up. Be
the roof. With all doors and windows closed
sure that the abraded area is dry. Do not
tightly, spray the roof and the top of the side
perform the repair if it is raining. Excessive
structures with water. Check for leaks.
moisture present during the application and
(Reseal and retest if any leaks appear.)
curing of the patch hinders its performance.
11.3.3 Repairing 7. Use a squeegee to work the resin on the
embossed side of the patch from the center to
NOTE: Quick and easy fiberglass repair the edges. Continue this until a small amount of
kits are now available for permanently resin is squeezed out around the perimeter of
repairing small tears and punctures. These the patch. After the patch has been exposed to
kits such as Kemlite® SunPatch repair kit sunlight, the patch cures in 10 to 20 minutes.
(P/N 01900680) work in a wide range of
temperatures and do not require mixing of 8. Check the patch to see if it is cured. It should
resins. (See also the Utilimaster Quick be hard to the touch. Resin that is not covered
Reference Parts Guide.) by the film feels tacky, but if the patch feels
hard it is cured. Remove the embossed film.
Remove the tape from the bottom side of the
Use rubber gloves and any appropriate
breathing apparatus as recommended by panel. The repair is complete. Expose the
the manufacturer of the kit. resin side of the foil pouch to sunlight until
cured before disposal.

Windshield
Stiffener
Trim
Front Rail
Gusset
Center
Post
Upper Quarter
Quarter Window Mount
Trim Glass
Grab
Handle
A-Post
Quarter
Panel
Stiffener
Cowl Assembly
Seal
VACS Cowl Casting
Quarter Cowl Angle
Post
Bracket Head for Gas Cylinder

Casting
Quarter Panel
Quarter Panel Leg
Mirror Mirror Bracket
Gasket
Illustration 1113 Windshield and Quarter Panel

11.4 A-post
NOTE: If replacing both A-posts, replace
the A-posts one at a time so that one
provides support to the roof while the other
is replaced.
11.4.1 Removal
1. Remove the hood. (See Section 6.1.)

2. Remove the windshield and quarter-window
glass. (See Section 3.1.)
Illustration 1114 Remove Rivets in
3. Remove the side mirrors with brackets. (See These Locations that Hold the Upper Center Post
Section 10.4.)
4. Remove the roof cap. (See Section 11.1.1.) 7. Replace the roof cap. (See Section 11.1.2.)
5. Using a #11 (or 3/16) drill bit and drill, 8. Attach the side mirrors and bracket. (See
remove the rivets attaching the windshield A- Section 10.4.)
post.
9. Replace the windshield and quarter-window
6. Remove the two outside (top and bottom) glass. (See Section 10.4.)
rivets on the cowl casting.
10. Attach the hood. (See Section 6.1.)
7. Brace the header to prevent the roof from
sagging when the A-post is removed. 11.5 Center Post
8. Pull the A-post out away from the quarter 11.5.1 Removal
panel and down.
1. Remove the windshield. (See Section 3.1.)
11.4.2 Replacement
2. Remove the roof cap. (See Section 11.1.1.)
1. Use existing holes as a template for drilling
holes in the new A-post. 3. Remove the air defrost duct.
2. Apply urethane sealant to the top of the A- 4. From the exterior using a #11 (3/16) drill bit
post. and drill, remove the four (4) buck rivets above
the drip rail that hold the top center post
3. Push the new A-post up and into the quarter bracket and the two (2) rivets just below the
panel. Slide the post up until it aligns with windshield that hold the bottom center post
existing holes. bracket. (See Illustration 1114).
4. Replace the two outside (top and bottom) 5. From the interior, pull out the support.
rivets on the windshield cowl.
11.5.2 Replacement
5. Rivet the A-post into place using the existing
holes. 1. Use existing holes as a template for drilling
holes in the new support.
6. Apply urethane sealant along the interior and
outer perimeters of the A-post interfaces. 2. From the interior, position the new support and
Wipe off all excess sealant with a toluene clamp in place.
solvent. 3. From the exterior, using existing holes, rivet the
support at the top and the bottom.

4. Remove the clamps.
5. Replace the roof cap. (See Section 11.1.2.)
6. Attach the air defrost ducts.
7. Replace the windshield glass. (See Section
10.4.)
11.6 Quarter Panel

11.6.1 Removal
1. Remove the screws from the bottom of the

mirror brackets. (See Section 10.4.)
2. Remove the side vent (drivers side only).
(See Section 10.2.)
3. Lift the hood and secure it with the hood prop.
4. On the hood gas spring bracket, locate and Illustration 1115 Hood Guide
remove the 1/420 bolts from the quarter
panel. 8. Reinstall the side vent. (See Section 10.2.)
5. Remove the hood guide. (See Illustration 11 9. Reattach the mirror bracket. (See Section
15.) 10.4.)
6. Remove the panel rivets using a #11 (or 3/16")
drill bit and drill. (Be sure to remove all of the
rivets).
7. Using a utility knife, break the seal on the door
pillar and along the interface of the panel and
the panel frame.
8. Slide out the panel.
9. Scrape off the old sealant.
11.6.2 Replacement
1. Apply sealant.
2. Slide in the panel.
3. Seal the door pillar with a bead of sealant.
4. Rivet the panel to the frame.
5. Seal the interface of the panel and the panel
frame.
6. Reattach hood gas spring bracket and ball
socket fasteners.
7. Reattach the hood guide.

11.7 Rear Bumper 11.7.2 Spring and Bumper Assembly Replacement
11.7.1 Spring and Bumper Assembly Removal NOTE: Use all new bolts and two-way
Grade 5 locknuts. Do not reuse locknuts or
1. Securely brace the bumper from underneath
bolts when replacing bumpers.
to prevent accident or injury.
NOTE: Do not tighten mounting bolts and
2. Remove the bolt from the base of the outside
locknuts until after the bumper has been
spring first. (See Illustration 1116.)
attached.
1. Attach the inner spring to the truck body with
four (4) new 1/213 x 2 bolts and locknuts.
Repeat for the opposite side.
2. Attach the outer spring to the body first at the
base with a new 1/213 x 2 bolt and locknut,
then attach the top of the spring with two (2)
new 1/213 x 2 bolts and locknuts. (See
Illustrations 1114 and 1115.) Repeat for
the opposite side.
3. Bend inner spring clips around the spring
Illustration 1116 Rear Bumper bumper mains. (See Illustration 1118.)
3. Remove and discard six (6) 1/2 bolts and
locknuts connecting the bumper springs to the
truck body. (See Illustration 1117.)
4. Pull bumper away from unit.
Illustration 1118 Spring Clip
4. Attach the bumper to the bottom of the outer

spring using four (4) new 1/213 x 1-1/2
bolts and locknuts.
5. Torque all mounting bolts and nuts from 75 to
95 ftlbs.
Illustration 1117 Key Attachment
Points for Rear Bumper

Glossary of Terms
BodyThe aluminum cab and cargo structure built by Utilimaster upon the chassis frame. The body does not
include the engine, drive train, or the chassis components.
BulkheadThe wall dividing the cab area from the cargo area.
Bumper, StepA light-truck bumper with a flat-top surface to provide a step for entry into the vehicle.
CabThe driver/passenger-carrying compartment of the truck.
CautionA notice to prevent injury to the driver or damage to the vehicle.
Certification LabelA label, required by Public Law 89-563, which states (certifies) that a motor vehicle or
item of motor vehicle equipment complies to all applicable Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards (FMVSS)
in effect on the date of manufacture.
Clearance LightsLighting required by Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards to indicate the overall width
(for vehicles in excess of 80inches wide) and height of a vehicle. Lights are red in rear and amber in front.
CowlThe front part of a cab or body directly below the base of the windshield between the cab and engine
compartment.
Curb SideSee Right Hand.
Curb WeightThe weight of a motor vehicle with all permanently mounted equipment and maximum capacity
of engine fuel, oil, and coolant. Same as Tare Weight.
Door, Roll-upAny multi-paneled door that opens vertically on a track system.
Door, SlidingAny single-paneled door that opens horizontally on a track system.
Duck Bill DrainA self-closing drain that prevents siphoning.
FMVSS (Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard)Mandated regulations promulgated by the National
Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) under Public Law 89-563.
GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating)The maximum total vehicle weight that the vehicle is rated to safely
carry.
Identification LightsLighting required by Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards to indicate the type of
motor vehicle. Lights are red in rear and amber in front.
Kazoo DrainSee Duck Bill Drain.
LH (Left Hand)Position on the vehicle to the drivers left as the driver faces forward.
Marker LightsAmber and red lights attached to the vehicle body which indicate the overall length.
NHTSA (National Highway Traffic Safety Administration)The Federal agency responsible for compli-
ance of regulations dealing with the manufacture and certification of motor vehicles.
Overall Vehicle HeightDistance from the ground to the highest point of the vehicle.
Overall Vehicle WidthRefers to the nominal design dimension of the widest part of the vehicle, excluding
signal lamps, rear view mirrors, flexible fender extensions and mud flaps, determined with doors and windows
closed and wheels in the straight-ahead positions.

Parallel BatteriesWhen all batteries have their positive terminals connected on a common cable and all
negative terminals on another common cable.
RiserSteel section between chassis frame and van body underframe to give proper tire clearance and/or
ground-to-floor height.
Right Hand (RH)Position on the vehicle to the drivers right as the driver faces forward.
Roof BowTransverse support member in the roof of a body.
Roof RailMember running longitudinally which connects the roof to the side of the body.
Rub RailMember running longitudinally providing a rub surface on the exterior side of a body to minimize
damage to the surface of the sidewall.
Serial NumberA number stamped on a metal plate by the manufacturer and placed on a component or the
vehicle for identification purposes. See also VIN.
Shipping WeightThe dry weight of a completed vehicle with all standard equipment including grease and oil
but without any fuel or coolant.
Tare WeightThe total weight of an empty vehicle in a condition ready to receive payload. Same as Curb
Weight.
VIN (Vehicle Identification Number)The 17character number is the legal identifier of the vehicle as-
signed by the chassis manufacturer as required by FMVSS.
Walk-inA complete vehicle built on a strip-chassis platform.
WarningA notice to prevent personal injury.
WB (Wheel Base)Horizontal dimension from the center line of the front axle to the center of the rear axle on
a single-rear-axle truck chassis.

F
Index Fasteners 16
FAX number 9
Federal Certification Label 8
G
Gas shock 66
Glossary 108
A Grab handle 89
A-post (windshield) 105 H
Address
National Highway Traffic Safety Administration 12 Handle, grab 89
Parts Department 9 Heating system 80
U.S. Department of Transportation 12 Blower motor 81
Heater resistor 81
B Hood 13, 65
Back-up 86 I
Battery 82
Blower motor 81 Inspection 13
Body mounting bolts 14, 20 K
Bolts with thread adhesive 19
BOM® 18 Kazoo drain valves 92
Buck rivet 17 Keys 44
Bumpers 14, 20, 107 L
C Lights 13
Center post (windshield) 105 Back-up 86
Checklist 13 Brake 86
Cleaning 12, 32 Cab 86
Counterbalance 45, 48 Cargo 87
Clearance 85
D Dome 86
D-Ring 74, 78 Hazard 86
Dash panel 93 Headlight 83
Doors 14 License plate 86
Bulkhead 64 Side marker 85
Rear roll-up 45 Switches 88
Side sliding 55 Taillights 86
Drain valves 92 Turn signal 84, 86
E M
Email Maintenance 13, 72

Customer Service 9 Mirrors 14, 91
Parts Department 9 Monobolt 17

N T
Notices 3 Tape
Nutsert 18 Double-faced adhesive 19
Vinyl barrier 19
P
Terms, glossary 108
Phone numbers 9, 12 Thread adhesive 19
Pop rivet 17 Tools 16
Pull strap 53 Torque seal 19
Torque values 21
Q
Towing 12
Quarter panel 106 Trim Molding 28
R U
Rear threshold 14 Utilimaster body serial number 8
Reflective tape 14
V
Replacement parts 9
Revision 3 VACS or Vehicle Access Control System 44
Rivets 17 Vent, side 89
Roll-up door 45 VIN 8
Cable replacement 46 Visor 90
Panel replacement 49
W
Pull strap 53
Roof Warranty claims 10
Cap 97 Washing 12
Corner castings 102 Web site 3
Panel 102 Windows 23
A-post 105
S
Center post 105
Safety 11 Installation 26
Sealant 22 Quarter windows 23
Seals 53 Removal 24
Seat 13 Replacement glass 24
Driver 69 Sliding door window 30
Jump 75 Tool kit 23
Seat belt 13, 20, 72, 74, 78 Windshield 105
Seats 20 Wiper/washer system 13, 33, 40
Side vent 89 Pivot and link assembly 38
Sliding door Pivot assembly 42
Adjustment 62 Troubleshooting 34
Exterior panel 61 Wiper arm 40
Handle 57 Wiper blade 40
Removal 59 Wiper motor 36
Replacement 60
Window 30
Sun visor 90

Notes


FedEx Ground Body Service Manual

Загружено:

Сведения о документе

Авторское право

Доступные форматы

Поделиться этим документом

Поделиться или встроить документ

Параметры публикации

Этот документ был вам полезен?

Это неприемлемый материал?

Авторское право:

Доступные форматы

FedEx Ground Body Service Manual

Загружено:

Авторское право:

Доступные форматы

Body

2 FedEx Ground Body Service Manual

FedEx Ground Body Service Manual 3

4 FedEx Ground Body Service Manual

FedEx Ground Body Service Manual 5

6 FedEx Ground Body Service Manual

Headlights Hood Backup Lights

Side Marker Light

265752 Cab Vent

US DOT 265752 Side Marker

Reflector Fuel Fill Port

FedEx Ground Body Service Manual 7

Federal Certification Label

8 FedEx Ground Body Service Manual

FedEx Ground Body Service Manual 9

Other claim requirements:

10 FedEx Ground Body Service Manual

FedEx Ground Body Service Manual 11

Reporting Safety Defects (U.S. Only)

Towing and Emergency Repairs

12 FedEx Ground Body Service Manual

1.0 Maintenance Checklist

1.1 Pre-Trip Inspection (daily)

1.2 Routine Body Maintenance (every three to four months)

FedEx Ground Body Service Manual 13

(See Illustrations 11 and 12.)

Check bolts on the crossmember plate.

Check body mounting bolts along risers.

Illustration 12 Check for Loose Bolts on the Chassis

q Check that all reflective tape is securely attached.

14 FedEx Ground Body Service Manual

Illustration 15 Places to be Lubricated on a Rear Roll-up Door

FedEx Ground Body Service Manual 15

16 FedEx Ground Body Service Manual

2.2.2 Pop Rivet

Use a pop rivet gun to replace it.

FedEx Ground Body Service Manual 17

A BOM® fastener must be cut off with a die grinder or a reciprocating

Locknuts can be removed with an appropriate open-end or box-end

NOTE: A nutsert is a threaded insert that is

Cut off with a die grinder.

18 FedEx Ground Body Service Manual

Peel or scrape off.

Apply to mating surfaces from a fresh roll.

2.2.10 Bolts with Thread Adhesive

FedEx Ground Body Service Manual 19

2.3 Lengths of Buck Rivets

LENGTH OF BUCK RIVETS

RIVET DIAMETER 3/16

Rivet Length Metal Rivet Grips Metal Thickness

20 FedEx Ground Body Service Manual

Bolt Size S.A.E. Grade 2 S.A.E. Grade 5 S.A.E. Grade 8

** Clamp load (lbs.) equal to 75% of bolt Proof Load.

Reprinted from 1969 S.A.E. Handbook.

FedEx Ground Body Service Manual 21

22 FedEx Ground Body Service Manual

3.1.1 Tool Kit (Part Number 23005014)

The Utilimaster bonded window replacement tool kit (see

3.1.2 Replacement Material Kit (Part Number 23005015)

The Utilimaster bonded window replacement material kit (see

FedEx Ground Body Service Manual 23

3.1.4 Removal and Replacement Procedure

To avoid injuring yourself or others, use

3.1.4.1 Removing the Glass

(See Illustrations 11 and 12.)

Illustration 12 Check for Loose Bolts on the Chassis

Illustration 15 Places to be Lubricated on a Rear Roll-up Door

Illustration 310 Frit Band

Illustration 312 Cross-section of Windshield Centerpiece.

Illustration 316 Trim Diagram

1. Cut a 90 length of window rubber and fit it

Illustration 320 Window Trim Sealing Tool

Illustration 321 Locking the Window Trim

Illustration 41 Wiper/Washer System

Illustration 42 Motor Mount and Crank

Illustration 46 Pivot Assembly

Illustration 47 Motor Crank

Illustration 48 Pivot Replacement

Illustration 49 Park Position

Illustration 410 Installing Wiper Blade

Illustration 411 Removing

Illustration 412 Park Position

Illustration 414 Head Cover