Internship Report

INTERNSHIP AT SILVER SPARK APPAREL LTD.
2018
1.1 Raymond Limited
Incorporated in 1925, Raymond Group is one of India's largest branded fabric and fashion
retailers. It is one of the leading, integrated producers of worsted suiting fabric in the world, with
a capacity of producing 31 million meters of wool & wool-blended fabrics. It is a $ 500 million
conglomerate fast heading to cross the $ 1 billion mark, with major interests in textiles, ready to
wear garments, retailing, as well as presence in engineering and prophylactics.
In the carded woolen fabric the group has a joint venture with Lannificio F Fedora, the world’s
premier maker of carded woolen fabric with a capacity of 2.5 million Meters of jacketing and
over coating fabric.
They produce nearly 20,000 design and colors of suiting fabric, that have found their way in over
55 countries including the European Union, USA, Canada, Japan and Australia among others.
Even as their products evolve with the times, the brand still caters to the different faces of 'The
Complete Man'- a man who is caring, sensitive and places a huge premium on relationships.
After making a mark in textiles, Raymond forayed into garmenting through highly successful
ventures like Silver Spark Apparel Ltd., Ever Blue Apparel Ltd. (Jeanswear) and Celebrations
Apparel Ltd. (Shirts). They also have some of the most highly respected apparel brands in our
portfolio: Raymond, Raymond Premium Apparel, Manzoni, Park Avenue, Color Plus, Parx and
Notting Hill.
The Raymond Group also has an expansive retail presence established through the exclusive
chain of 'The Raymond Shop' and stand-alone brand stores. They are today one of the largest
players in fabrics, designer wear, denim, cosmetics & toiletries, engineering files & tools,
prophylactics and air charter services in national and international markets. All our plants are
ISO certified, leveraging on cutting-edge technology that adheres to the highest quality
parameters while also being environment friendly.
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INTERNSHIP AT SILVER SPARK APPAREL LTD. 2018
1.1.1 Group Companies

 Raymond Ltd- Raymond Ltd. is among the largest integrated manufacturers of worsted
fabrics in the world.
 Raymond Apparel Ltd. -Raymond Apparel Ltd. has in its folio some of the most highly
regarded apparel brands in India – Raymond Premium Apparel, Manzoni, Park Avenue,
Parx and Notting Hill.
 ColorPlus Fashions Ltd. - ColorPlus is among the largest smart casual brands in the
premium category. The company was acquired by Raymond to cater to the growing
demand for a high end, casual wear brand in the country for Men & Women.
 Silver Spark Apparel Ltd. - A garmenting facility that manufactures formal suits, trousers
and jackets.
 EverBlue Apparel Ltd. - A state-of-the-art denim garmenting facility.
 Celebrations Apparel Ltd. - A facility set-up for the manufacture of formal shirts.
 J.K. Files & Tools- A leading player in the Engineering Files & Tools segment and the
largest producer of steel files in the world.
 Ring Plus Aqua Ltd. - A leading manufacturer in the engineering automotive

components.
 J.K. Helene Curtis Ltd. - A leading player in the grooming, accessories and toiletries
category.
1.1.2 Joint Venture

 Raymond UCO Denim Pvt. Ltd. - The manufacturers and marketers of denim fabrics.
 Raymond Zambaiti Pvt. Ltd. - A Greenfield facility manufacturing high value cotton
shirting.
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 J.K. Ansell Ltd. - The manufacturers and marketers of KamaSutra condoms and surgical
gloves.
 J.K. Talabot Ltd. - Our Joint venture with MOB Outillage SA, manufacturing files and
rasps for international markets.
1.2 About SSAL

Silver spark Apparel Ltd (SSAL) is a part of an 80-year-old leading business group in the
garment industry, Raymond India ltd. It is a wholly owned subsidiary of the Textile and Apparel
major Raymond Limited. The commissioning of the Silver Spark Apparel plant marks the
Raymond Group's foray into the Global Apparel Outsourcing market, which is expected to boom
post the dismantling of the Multi Fiber Agreement. This unit manufactures suits and formal
trousers catering largely to the export markets.
Set-up at a total project cost of Rs. 42.5crores, this state-of-the-art manufacturing facility has
monthly capacity of 50,000 Jackets and 100,000lacs Trousers. With a total plant built-up area of
200,000 square feet, the facility houses specially imported state-of-art manufacturing equipment.
The specialty of the plant is the superior construction of the jacket, are in line with Italian and
Japanese quality levels, which are known for best quality jackets in the world. Fully compliant
with international quality norms, the facility has been audited and approved for commercial
production by major American and Japanese menswear buyers. 100% of the production is
exported. The major market for the firm is USA, and other markets are Japan, Canada and
Europe. The major clients include:
 Konaka (Japanese Buyer)
 Charles Tyrwhitt
 Peerless
 Sacoor Brothers
 Banana Republic
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 J C Penny
 Calvin Klein
1.2.1 Strength of SSAL (In Numbers)

 Area: 200,000 square feet
 Total Man power:
o 2240 operators and supervisors
o 300 employees
 Total Jacket Line: 6
o 5 Engineered Jacket Lines (one line dedicated for Konaka)
o 1 Hand Made Premium Suit Line (produces 30 jackets daily)
 Total Trouser Lines: 5 (one line dedicated for Konaka)
 Waist Coat Line: 1
 Monthly Capacity:
o Jackets: 50,000
o Trousers: 100,000
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2.1 Departments
The different departments in Silver Spark Apparel Limited are:
1. Marketing and Merchandising Department
2. Sampling
3. Purchase Department
4. Planning & Pre-Production Department
5. Store (Trims & Fabrics)
6. CAD/CAM & Cutting Department
7. Sewing Department
8. Finishing Department
9. Quality Assurance
10. Industrial Engineering Department
11. Maintenance Department
12. Accounts and Finance Department
13. Human Resource Department
14. Information Technology Department
15. Exim Department
16. MTM (Made To Measure)
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2.2 Organizational structure
Figure 2 : Organizational structure of SSAL 1
2.3 Role of Different Departments
Figure 3: Roles of different departments at SSAL 1

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2.4 Various departments of the company
2.4.1. Marketing / Merchandising Department
Organization Structure
Figure 4: Hierarchy in Marketing/Merchandising Department
The GM Marketing/Merchandising heads the department. There are two senior managers
reporting to him, one of the managers is responsible for the trousers and the other manager is
responsible for jacket. The managers are supported by the two and three merchandisers
respectively and an assistant for the marketing and merchandising activities.
The functions of the department are:

 Generation of orders depending on production capacity
 Sample approvals
 Purchase co-ordination
 Generation of BOM
 Delivery of shipment
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2.4.1.1 Merchandising Department

Process flow chart
Figure 5 : Process flow of merchandising department

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2.4.2 Fabric Store
Figure 6: Process flow of fabric store
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DELIVERY CHALLAN (DC) ENTRY:
 Material Inward
 In house Status
 Fill date, transporter, no of packages, supplier, invoice no, BOM, material, quality,
colour, metres.
PURCHASE ORDER (PO) CHECK:
 Status Report
 Item Rate
 Fabric
 Vendor Selection
 Retrieval
 Price per metre
 Minimum and maximum metres
 Match ref no
 Verify PO no.
GRN:
 Inventory
 Order ref no.
 Po no.
 Store
 Details
 Copy of commercial invoice
MATERIAL UNLOADING:
 Invoice check-Invoice no., article no., item rate, item quantity, quality, customer
reference no., address
 Packing list- Roll wise detail, quantity, weight, roll no.
 Enter into racks according to classification.
STATEMENT PREPARED:
 Sort in rack according to colour/buyer.

 Enter bin card-received date, stock, issue, quantity, balance
 Main stock board entry-ref no., quantity, buyer
 Materials sent to concerned person in each line
BALE OPENING:
 Open packs
 Sort in racks
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PIECE CARD UPDATION:
 Item
 Ref no.
 Color no.
 Buyer no.
 Piece no.
 Order no.
 Supplier
 Defect
 Width
 Quality check
CAD PARAMETERS
 Width of the fabric
 CSV/Non CSV report
 Direction of the fabric
 Face side of the fabric
QUALITY CHECK:
 4 Point system
 Scored above 40 points, roll is rejected
 40 points/100 yds or 42 points/100 mtr
 As observed, some defects can be overseen by the inspection operators, so if a roll scored
above 30 points in total, the quality checker rejects the piece after rounding it off to 40.
 Nature of fabric plays a major role.
SPONGING:
Sponging is done after inspection to give stability to the fabric. It is done as per the requirements
of the buyer. There is only 1 machine for sponging. WEISHI is the supplier.
PROCESS:
 Load material. It passes through 4 chambers and shrinkage is controlled by steam and
heat fixing.
 Time taken by the m/c to do one round of sponging- 7 to 8 min for approx. 350m of
fabric roll.
 Relaxation time depends upon the type of fabric. It can be 24 hrs or 48 hrs.
 Steam pressure of the m/c is 0.4-0.6MPa
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Picture1: Fabric store
Different types of fabric materials are stored in the Stores department. Six types of fabrics are
used:
 Shell
 100% wool
 Polywool
 100% Linen
 Wool Linen
 Cotton
 Pocketing
 Canvas
 Synthetic
 Horsehair
 Classic
 Floating
 Full Canvas
 Half Canvas
 Felt
 Sleeve head
 Body felt
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 Collar felt
 Fusing
 Lapel
 Reinforcement
 Body
 Parts
 Lining
 Sleeve
 Body
 Knee
Fabric is imported from Japan and China. Local sourcing of fabrics is done from Grasim and
Raymond Banswara (80%), GL International, Reiss velvet etc. Lining and fusing is ordered from
Ilshin, Ningvbo, Freudenburg.
Capacity of the stores department for fabrics is 7 lakh meter. The amount of fabrics currently
available in stores is 11 lakh meter.
Invoice is generated by the vendor for the ordered quantity. The buyer (Raymond) generates the
GRN (Goods Received Notes) once the fabric is inhouse.
Once the fabric is inhouse, it is checked for quality.
Fabric content includes the following:
 100% wool
 60% wool 40% polyester
 52% wool 46% polyester 2% elastron
 69% polyester 29% rayon 2% elastron
 64% polyester 2% lycra
 70% wool 30% polyester
 Taffeta fabric is used for lining and pocket bags
Quality checking of the issued fabrics:
 4 point system is used for fabric quality inspection. In this method, penalty points are
given for fabric defects and total points in the inspected fabric roll is calculated.
Maximum 4 penalty points can be assessed for any single defect and that no linear meter
can be assigned more than 4 points regardless the number of defects within that piece.
Only major defects are considered. A major defect is any defect, if found on a finished
product, would classify the product as a B-grade.
 There are total 8 inspection tables. 4 – WEISHI, 4 – RAMSONS
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Defect range Point evaluation

Upto 3” 1
> 3 inches < 6 inches 2
> 6 inches < 9 inches 3
> 9 inches 4
Types of Defects identified:
Defects Defect range Points

Slub 3” 2
Warp missing 1” 1
Knot 0.125” 1
Weft bar floats 2.5” 1
Weft thick yarn 3.5” 2
Single yellow mark 4
Oil stain 3
Weft damage 4.5” 2
Multiple pick 1.5” 1
Stain mark 4
Missing pick 9” & full width 4
Holes 4
Weft bar 4
Individual Roll Points: All decisions are based on a square meter computation. The following
is used to determine the point count for each roll.
(Total points * 100*100) / (Inspected meters * Fabric width (cm))
= Points per 100 square meter.
Inspection quantities: 100% quality inspection is followed. The fabric roll is made to slide on
the inclined inspection tables. Capacity of inspection is 1500m per day.
MUNSELL TEST:
This quality test is conducted for checking color blindness and isolate and arrange 80 hues and
Chroma of different colors. This indicates their color vision accuracy by their arranging ability
through their score.
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Picture 2:Fabric Inspection Machine
Picture 3:Sponging Machine
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 Inspection is done on the basis of 10 parameters. 100% of fabric is inspected. These

parameters include:
1. Width report – Width at the starting point of the roll, at the center of the roll and
at the end of the roll is checked. Least width is considered for the marking making
process.
Picture4: Width report
2. Shade report – Shade variation is checked from light to dark.
Picture5: Shade report
3. Shade band – There are variations in shade in same fabric lot. Different fabric
rolls are graded according to their shades.
 Suit is cut together so that shade variation doesn’t arise.
Picture 6: Shade band

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4. CSV report – CSV (Center Shade Variation). Variation of shade in the starting
point, center and the end point of the roll.
Picture 7: CSV report
1 2 3 4
The panels are cut
2 1 4 3
The panels gets stitched

Marker is made in the region (1-4)
5. Shrinkage report – Shrinkage test is performed before and after fusing the shell
fabric. Minimum 8 hours relaxation is given for shrinkage test. 10% checking is
done. It is converted into % and then it is also added to the marker. It is inspected
on grain.
Picture 8: Shrinkage report
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6. Fabric Inspection Summary – Overall summary of all the inspections.
7. Fabric direction – Direction of fabric is checked according to the different type

of weaves, checks and different other types of patterns. Directional fabric is the
one which when rotated by 180°, changes its pattern.
8. Fabric Side Approval – Face and back of the fabric is decided.
9. Colorfastness test – For colorfastness test, fabric is rubbed against white piece of
fabric (Crocking). If there is any color bleeding, fabric is rejected. Also, in the
finishing section a test is practiced using per chloro ethylene (white petrol) to see
if there is any color bleeding in the fabric.
Picture 9: Colourfastness test
10. Seam Slippage Requirement – Two small pieces of fabric are stitched together
and then stretched to identify the strength and looseness of the stitch. Fusing is
put to minimize seam slippage. (Centre back, elbow etc)
Picture 10: Seam slippage test
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Problems faced by the Stores:

 The capacity of the Stores is less as compared to the quantity of fabric currently
available.
 Fabrics of old orders are neither disposed nor sold. Thus, taking up a lot of space.
 Rejected fabric is still stored. Removal of rejected and old fabric can increase the
space and the extra fabric rolls that are kept in an unorganized manner in the trolleys
could be assigned to the racks.
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2.4.3. Trims Store

Process Flow Chart
Figure 7 : Process flow of trims store
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MATERIAL UNLOADING
 PO check
 DC(100% quantity check)
 Materials confirmation against VAT packing list
 If OK, store at incoming goods area.
 If not OK, inform to purchase team for necessary action.
QUALITY CHECK
 2.5AQL check
 AQL>2.5, then reject.
 AQL<2.5, then accept.
 If OK, then make GRN.
 If not OK, inform merchandiser.
 Keep in rejected rack and inform supplier
 If supplier confirms for return, then return to supplier.
 If supplier does not confirm for return, dispose as per policy.
GRN
 Make GRN according to quantity

 Print invoice submit to accounts.
 Check if materials less or more.
 Inform merchandiser and purchase team for necessary action.
BIN CARD UPDATION
 Write date.
 Date of issued and received .
 Issue old things first.
 Tally balance.
TRIM CARD
 Attach trims with their description according to BOM.

STAGE ISSUE AGAINST REQUISITION
 Cut reports from cutting department.

 Trims and their quantities are mentioned.
 Keep them ready before requisition from sewing department is received.
STACKING IN SUPER MARKET AREA
 The required trims are stacked in super market area.

 The trims are then supplied to sewing and finishing departments.
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Trims Store
Different types of trims available are:
1. Zipper – One bundle has 200m of roll. No. 4 (teeth thickness) is used for Konaka. For all
other brands, no. 3 is used. Zippers are locally sourced from YKK. Zipper consists of
plastic teeth with woven mesh and metal slider. Zippers are tested for shade variation in
sliders and the weave used.
2. Thread – Threads are available of different thickness:
Tkt. 30 – Button Wrapping
Tkt. 40
Tkt. 80
Tkt. 100
Tkt. 120 – Sham hole, bartack, Int D Stitching, under collar zig-zag, button attach, X-
stitch buttons ( both CF and sleeve).
Tkt. 150 – Piping
Tkt. 160
Tkt. 180
Tkt. 360 – Zig - zag at end of chest welt, Blind hem, Canvas basting
Tkt. 70 – Straight button hole, Internal saddle stitching – contrast stitch @ Facing
3. Tapes – Tapes are imported from Germany.
4. Hook & bar – Hook & bar is locally sourced from Sewing Systems. These are tested for
their dullness. Both hook and bar should be of equal shine.
5. Waistband – Waistband for Peerless is manufactured inhouse. For BRFS, it is sourced
from Ankha.
6. Buttons – Plastic buttons with satin finish are used. Size of the buttons used is 32 ligne
for trouser and 24 ligne for jacket sleeves. These are sourced from Sacoor Brothers and
Tiger Brothers. Buttons are tested for their shape, shade and number of holes.
7. Buckles – Buckles are imported for the brands CT & BRFS.
8. Labels – Brand labels for BRFS are locally sourced while for all other brands, these are
imported. Wash care labels for CT is imported from Hong Kong. Materials for these
labels used is taffeta. Labels are tested for their material, weave, printing, width and side
folding.
9. Shoulder pads – These are sourced from Orion, Helsa, and Icon, Hyderabad. These are
tested for their shape and thickness.
10. Slotted tapes are only used for BRFS.
11. Stretch bad rolls – These are sourced from QST for BRFS.
12. Hangers – These are sourced from Anwise, China.
13. Packing materials – Polybags, cartons. For BRFS, packing material is locally sourced.
For all others sourcing is done from Allen Group.
14. Piping – Piping is manufactured inhouse and is cut at bias (50°).
15. Tags – Tags are tested for their print, size and their standard quality is met or not.
16. Button sizes with their application :
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 14L – Shirt and suits

 18L – Inside Suit
 24L – Trouser an Jackets
 26L
 27L
 28L - Trouser
 32L - Jacket
 36L
 40L
 24L & 32L are the most commonly used button sizes.
GRN is generated using STAGE. GRN contains PO, stamp at the security, invoice number and
date, BOM, remarks and signature of the authorities.
Sr. No. TRIM SUPPLIER SIZES DESCRIPTION

1 Thread Gutermann 120 tex 100% polyester.
Sewing thread.
Core yarn.
2 Thread Fujix King 90 tex 100% polyester.
Used in overlock
machine for
Konaka
production.
3 Thread Fujix King 50 tex 100% polyester.
Pocketing and
sewing thread
Overlock thread.
Button Attach
thread
6 Button Fashionable 15 L
Buttons
7 Button Scotch Buttons 15 L Urea buttons. Used
in Konaka jackets.
8 Button Tiger Button Co. 24 L 12 Gross in 1 box.
Inc.
9 Button CatHay Pacific 24 L 10 Gross
10 Button CatHay Pacific 32 L 5 Gross
11 Tape BTSC Co. Ltd. 20mm
12 Button BTSC Co. Ltd. Covered Metal
13 Fish Tags Catalyst
14 BRFS Tags Avery Dennison
15 Shoulder Pads Helsa Fashion
Shaping
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16 Shoulder Pads Orion

17 Labels Siroset Eco
18 Waistband Anka Textiles
Curtains and
Pocketing
Linings
19 Trouser Braid Helsa-Icon India 16 mm Satin 93% poly, 7%
Pvt. Ltd. Tape polyamide
20 Paper hangtags Muratani and Co.
21 YKK-Zipper, LIMS, Chennai
Slider
22 Button Ryyty Apparel 24 L 100% Polyester
Resources
ADDITIONAL TESTS PRACTICED IN STORE
CROCKMETER
Picture 11: Crockmeter
TESTING PROCEDURE:
Dry Rubbing
•Use the holding clamp to mount the sample on the baseboard of the Crockmeter. Ensure
the sample lays flat on the baseboard.
•Two tests are performed, one along the direction of the warp/length and the other of the
weft/width.
•Mount a dry crocking square cloth over the end of the peg on the Crockmeter and hold it
taut by means of the spring clip provided.
•Rest the peg on the sample.
•Set the machine for 10 cycles (back and forth).
•
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Wet Rubbing
•Wet a crocking square cloth with 1-2 drops of distilled/deionised water.

•Carry out the test as the procedure for dry rubbing.
•Allow the tested rubbing cloth to dry at room temperature.
EVALUATION OF RESULTS:
•
Eliminate the pulled out dyed fibres retained on the surface of the cotton rubbing
cloth.
• Assess color staining using the Grey scales for assessing staining.
SHRINKAGE TEMPLATE & SCALE
Picture 12: Shrinkage template and scale
TESTING PROCEDURE:
•The bigger template has Slots in both Vertical & Horizontal direction.
•Place the template on sample fabric; please make sure that the fabric is in flat position
before marking.
•Hold the template firmly & mark on all slots by a marking pen which easily goes inside
the slot.
•The marked fabric is washed or dry-cleaned & dried (as per the method required).
•Now place the calibrated scale on the marks in each direction.
•The calibrated scale directly indicates percentage shrinkage or stretch. You may take
minimum of 3 readings for accurate results.
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GSM CUTTER & GSM WEIGHING BALANCE
Picture 13: GSM cutter and GSM weighing balance
TESTING PROCEDURE:
• Put the fabric under the GSM Cutter and rotate it to cut a sample circle of 113mm
diameter.
• Weight the fabric with the GSM Weighing Balance.
• The cut sample is 100 sq.cm. The weight of the cut sample is multiplied by 100.
• The result is the GSM of that particular fabric.
COLOR MATCHING CABINET
Picture 14: color matching cabinet
TESTING PROCEDURE:
• The sample to be checked for the color difference is placed on the 45 degree viewing
angle along with the buyer original.
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• Used to match the shade cards used in dyeing for the perfect match of shades.
• Light Source • Type of Light • Colour Temperature
• D – 65 • Artificial Daylight • 6500 K
• INCA • Incandescent light • 2856 K
• TL - 84 • Fluorescent Light • 4150 K
• CWF • Cool White Fluorescent • 4150 K
• UV • Ultra Violet Light • Ultra Violet black light
CREASE RECOVERY TESTER
Picture 15: crease recovery tester
TESTING PROCEDURE:
•Take samples of size 50 x 25mm, in both warp direction and weft direction of the fabric.
•Bring both ends of the sample together to fold it.
•Place the sample below the weight assembly to crease the sample for 60 seconds and then
take it out.
•Leave it for 60 seconds to relax.
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•Clip one end of the sample with a spring-loaded clamp and other is allowed to fall free
under its own weight.
•Open the locking pin to rotate the disc.
•Rotate the disc in a clockwise direction until the free falling end of the sample comes
parallel to the vertical arm.
•Measure the angle of recovery from the circular measurement scale after 5 min of
inserting the sample into sample jaw.
BUTTON PULL TESTER
Picture 16: Button pull tester
TESTING PROCEDURE:
•The snap component is gripped by the Upper Snap Clamp and the garment is fixed to the
lower Fabric Clamp.
•By turning the hand wheel, the operator can apply a specific force according to the
buyer’s requirement.
•The setup is then kept still for 10 seconds.
T-SCALE SKEWING TESTER
Picture 17: T-scale skewing tester
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TESTING PROCEDURE:
•Keep the T-Scale on the sample fabric; please make sure that the fabric is in flat position
before marking.
•Hold the scale firmly & mark on the two smaller slots with a marking pen which easily
goes inside the slot.
•Mark at 1 metre from the intersection in the perpendicular direction.
•The marked fabric is washed or dry-cleaned & dried (as per the method required).
•Now place the T-scale in the same position of the two smaller slots and mark at 1 metre in
the perpendicular direction.
•Now measure the distance between the two 1 metre marks which shows the skewness of
the fabric.
TENSILE STRENGTH/SEAM SLIPPAGE TESTER
Picture 18: Seam slippage Tester
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TESTING PROCEDURE:
•Prepare samples of the production seamed panel that reflects the seams to be used in the
end garment.
•Samples must be 100mm in width and approximately 150mm in length with the seam
central and parallel to the width.
•Use the appropriate clamps to hold the sample.
•Push the load button to execute the test.
•The machine then shows the peak force result i.e the tensile strength.
2.4.4. Production Planning and Control (PPC)

The existence of this department is of utmost significance to ensure the effective and efficient
working of the whole unit. The function of this department, in a nut shell, is to prepare a basic
time plan for the whole unit i.e. when to load which order, and inform all the related departments
accordingly in the sequence of their working.
Planning :
This department does all the planning related to the production and the delivery. They do of
loading plans for the lines, fabric details plans and the shipment plans. The department plans the
entire production process from the receipt of the fabric, the cutting plan, the quantity time of
loading, type of fabric to be loaded etc.
 Receive factory booking grid, prepared by the marketing department containing month
vs. buyer details
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 Order execution plan is prepared 120 days in advance
 After receiving all this information, PPC talks to the T&A dept. to prepare a line plan,
style code wise.
2.4.5. Cutting Department

Process Flow Chart
Figure 8 : Process flow of cutting department
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Cutting department has five sections:

 CAD
 Pattern Making
 Spreading
 Cutting
 Bundling
 Fusing
CAD section is responsible for making the markers made by the pattern making department and
accordingly release the lay reports and cut order plan.
Spreading department is responsible for spreading the fabric according to the lay reports released
by the CAD department.
Cutting section cut the spread lay according to the online marker sent by the CAD section. Also a
hardcopy of mini marker is provided to them hence when the pieces are cut, they are marked at
the very moment to avoid confusion.
Ticketing & bundling section number each and every part so that while sewing proper parts of
the jacket or trouser can be matched.
2.4.5.1. CAD :
CAD section is responsible for making the markers made by the pattern making department and
accordingly release the lay reports and cut order plan. Spreading department is responsible for
spreading the fabric according to the lay reports made by the CAD department. The various
spreading modes include:
 Face up
 Face to face
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CAD Process flow chart
Figure9: Process flow of CAD department
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2.4.5.2. Pattern Making

process flow chart
Figure10: Process flow of pattern making
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2.4.5.3. Spreading Section:

Process Flow Chart
Figure 11: Process flow of spreading
Types of laying methods:

 Manual Spreading:
o Manual spreading is done for Lining and Shell fabrics. After the fabric is issued from
warehouse, it is first blocked, then two persons lay fabric according to the length of
marker.
o Generally, a lay is of 5 – 7 m length and a layer of 50 – 60 plies is made according to
the cut plan. During spreading all the plies are matched properly on both the sides by
workers.
 Automatic Spreading:
o Automatic spreading is done for Trims like Fusing, Canvas, Felt etc. only. Fabric
rolls are first temporarily stored in shelves near the spreading tables. From here they
are loaded on the automatic spreaders.
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Relaying
In case of some stripe and checks fabrics, the alignment in proper position is very important in
order to have a required design match. It is achieved by re-spreading the block cutting layers
with the help of pins and then cutting it precisely on band knife cutting machine to get the ready
cut parts. Block, relay cutting for Konaka – stripe fabric.
2.4.5.4. Cutting Section

Process Flow Chart
Figure 12: Process flow of cutting section

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Cutting Process:
The cutting department receives shell fabric, lining, fusing, canvas, pocketing from the stores,
while referring to the indent.
Along with the fabric, the cutting department also receives CAD markers from the CAD
department, which includes the spreading report and the ratio details. Marker gives an idea about
the lay length.
Cutting Capacity : 2000 jackets, 3500 trousers
Critical factors while cutting by CAM:

 Vacuum- 15 cm/Hg
 Knife speed-3000 RPM (maximum)
 Cut speed- 2743 cm/min
 Knife wear- 7500 shpns
 All the pieces on marker can be given a number and can be cut as desired.
Cutting Check Point:

 Marker plan should be strictly followed.
 All cut panel shape and size should match with marker plan.
 Notch should be perfect & of required size and type.
 Panel should perfectly match with the pattern.
 Cut plotter marker should be attached to stack of cut part with a rubber band.
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2.4.5.5. Fusing Section

Process Flow Chart
Figure 13: Process flow of fusing
The fusing parameters (temperature, pressure and speed) are set as per the fabric and interlining
quality. Both woven and non-woven fusing are used as per specifications. The fusing parameters
are:
 Temperature: 130 deg. Cel.
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 Speed of the fusing machine: 15-25 m / min
 Pressure: 3 bar pressure
 Bond strength: 1000 gm bond strength.
 Panel checking / final auditing after fusing is done.
Fusing Machines
 Model-Cool Stream 1.6 mb (Reliant machinery limited)
 Total quantity- 3
 It is equipped with Air Floatation mechanism.
2.4.5.6. Stickering / numbering

 The numbering of parts is done for a particular lay in order to avoid the problem of shade
variation in the garment and to assure the different parts for a single garment from the
same layer of the fabric.
 In addition it helps the workers to have a perfect count of the parts and thus, helps in
avoiding the misplacement of parts.
Panel inspection
 100% inspection of all the parts is carried out in order to check for any defect in the
fabric, line matching and any other problem.
 After inspection and rejection, re-cutting of defective parts is done and required numbers
of pieces are cut of the required part of the required size.
 Then after the cut parts are ready, they are issued to the sewing department, where they
are bundled for appropriate WIP maintenance.
 The extra rolls are sent back to the store. But the end bits are still kept in the cutting
department only, till the order is shipped.
39
2.4.6. Sewing Department

Process Flow Chart
Figure14: Process flow of sewing department

Sewing department’s function is the crucial and most vital job in a garment industry. This
department makes the plans, pattern and material in to a garment; this is the place where actual
production takes place. After the fabric is released from cutting, it is passed on to the sewing
department for the sewing. The various parts are stitched together to form the garments.
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The sewing section is comprised of:

 Jacket Lines
 Trouser Lines
 Waist coat line
2.4.6.1. Jacket Line

There are five jacket lines at SSAL, the brief description of their capacity and clientele is as
follows:
Table3: Capacity and daily production of jacket lines
Each Jacket line is composed of 7 Sections except Line-2 and HMS:

 Front
 Lining
 Sleeve
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 Assembly - 1
 Assembly - 2
 Small parts
o Canvas
o Welt pocket
o Facing
o Flap chest
o Pocket bag
 Collar
The SAM for a basic Jacket is approx. 70-85 min and that for Japanese (Konaka) jacket is
approx. 90-105 min.
The Jacket line follows the UPS system of production. The material moves on pneumatically
controlled overhead hangers, which uses the principle of gravity beautifully.
The different types of jackets made at SSAL are :

 Half Canvas
 Full Canvas
 Floating Canvas
 No vent
 Single Centre Vent
 Double vent (one on each side)
 Full Lining
 Half Lining
The Jackets produced at SSAL are world class and can be compared with the quality the quality
produced anywhere in the world.
The major buyers are:

 Calvin Klein
 Michael Kors
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 Sacoor Brothers
 Banana Republic
 Peerless
 Konaka (Japan)
 Raymond Apparel Ltd
Panels of Jacket: 77 (Style - CT)

 Shell - 22
 Lining - 20
 Canvas - 14 (8 Sleeve, 6 Chest)
 Buttons - 10 (8 Cuffs, 2 front)
 Pocket bag - 6
 Felt - 5 (2 Chest, 2 sleeve, 1 Under collar)
No. of operations (Style - CT):

 Front - 30
 Sleeve- 13
 Lining- 23
 Small parts:
o Flap Pocket - 3
o Chest Canvas - 3
o Pocket - 2
 Collar- 8
 Assembly - 21
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2.4.6.2 Trouser Line
The operation of Trousers line is categorized into four sections:

 Small Part preparatory section
 Front and Back
 Assembly
 Waist Band Preparation
In the preparatory section the basic parts of the garment is matched and graded for the
production. Then it is send to the front and back end line where the front side and the backside of
a trouser are made and finally to the assembly line for the final assembling of the parts.
There are Five trouser lines at SSAL.
The different types of trousers made are:

 Double pleated
 Single pleated
 Flat front
 Trouser with lining
 Trouser without lining
 Trouser with bottom cuff
 Trouser with normal bottom hem
The material handling and movement in the preparatory and front & back sections is on trolleys
and the assembly lines are based on UPS system.
The material flow is on manually controlled overhead hangers.
The SAM for a trouser is around 30 mins.
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2.4.6.3. Waist coat line

The line consists of 4 sections :
 Front
 Front lining
 Back lining
 Assembly
There are basically two types of waist coat

 Single sided
 Reversible
The SAM for a basic waist coat is approx. 36-45min. The line follows the bundle system of
production. The material moves on long tables in bundles.
The major buyers are:
 Jaeger
 Sacoor Brothers
 Banana Republic
 Peerless
 Konaka (Japan)
 Raymond Apparel Ltd
Parts of waist coat: (Style - Konaka)

 Shell - 11
 Front Lining - 2
 Back lining - 6
 Buttons - 5
 Pocket bag - 4
 Buckle - 2
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2.4.7. Finishing Department

A customer’s interest in a garment is evoked by the final presentation of it in any store. The
finishing department does just that, in the sense that it ships neatly packed goods.
The objectives of finishing are:

 Improve the appearance of the garments
 Improve the drape by pressing
 Improve the durability of the garments
 Packing for dispatch
The finishing facility at SSAL is highly mechanized with modern state of art machinery. The
finishing department at SSAL also has the exclusive license to use the “SI-RO-SET chemical”
for permanent crease setting. It is used for both jackets as well as trousers.
Formats Used:
 Daily line wise report: received, packed, remaining and WIP
 Total production and receiving report
 Hourly Receiving file
 Trims receiving file
 Alteration file
 Stock details in finishing and warehouse
 Total dispatch report and revenue generated
 O.C.R. (order completion report)
 Production Capacity: 80-100 per hour per batch
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Process flow of Jacket finishing
Figure 15:Process flow of jacket finishing
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Process flow of trouser finishing
Figure 16: Process flow of trouser finishing
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2.4.8. Warehouse department

 Capacity: 80,000 units
 Software’s used to maintain the data of warehouse are GTNXS and Total Sourcing.
 In order to regulate the temperature, there are 7 humidifiers installed in the warehouse.
The temperature is maintained to 32°C.
 Two types of containers are used for loading: 20 feet and 40 feet FCL and LCL.
 Metal detection system is used for the orders of Konaka.
RECIEVE BOM FILE

FROM THE BUYER
SCANNING OF
INCOMING
GARMENTS
PHYSICAL COUNTING
OF INCOMING
GARMENTS
IF OK
STACKING OF THE
SCANNED
GAREMNTS
GENERATION OF
PACKING LIST
PREPERATION OF OCR
REPORT
GOH/BOX PACKING
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INTERNAL AUDIT
IF OK
REPACKING OF
AUDITED GOODS
OFFER EXTERNAL
AUDIT
IF OK
REPACKING OF
AUDITED GOODS
PREPERATION OF
CHECKLIST
ISSUE LOADING CLIP

TO SECURITY AND
PERSONNEL
TAKE PHOTO OF 25%,50%,75% AND 100% EMAIL PACKING LIST TO THE

FULLED CONTAINER MERCHANTS
TAKE PHOTO OF EMPTY AND FULLY FILLED ISSUE GARMENT DELIVERY CHALAN
CONTAINER
50
OVERVIEW
 Garment pieces are brought to the warehouse and delivered to the buyer immediately.
The units are not stored for much longer period of time.
 In case of trouser packing, initial packing is done on the sewing floor itself. A trouser
carton can hold upto 14 to 24 units. This is done as per the demand of the buyer. After
packing is done on the sewing floor, the cartons are brought to the warehouse. Here, the
cartons are opened and the units are physically counted and verified if the number of
units are in accordance with the buyer’s demand. These cartons are then repacked and are
ready to dispatch.
 There are 10 lines in the warehouse for the storage of garments on hangers (GOHs).
Lines 1,2,3,4,5 are meant for Konaka with capacity of 350 units. Lines 6,7,8,9 are meant
for Peerless with capacity of 1000 units. Line 10 contains units from all the buyers other
than Konaka. Here, all the units are loaded and then segregated into other lines according
to their buyers.
 In case of production delays, the recent orders are dispatched immediately while the
previous ongoing orders are made to stay in warehouse. The number of units dispatched
are as per the buyer’s requirement. If the buyer does not demand any further, the left
pieces are sent to the outlet of the company for sale at cheaper rates. Maximum time
allowed in the warehouse is 18 weeks.
 Barcodes are used on individual units and the cartons and other packing trims as per the
demand of the buyers specially CT, Peerless, and BRFS.
 Trims such as hangers, polybags, cartons etc are checked for quality issues. There are
three types of audits done before shipment: internal, external and final. Internal audit is
done within the department, external audit is done by the merchandizing personnel and
the final audit is done by the buyer. In case the product fails in the final audit, it is sent
back to the department for the rectification of the defects.
Mode of Shipment – Ocean Freight
Containers used are full container load (FCL) and lesser than container load (LCL).
Full Container Load means that all goods in the container are listed on a single Bill of Lading,
and are owned by a single party. It does not matter how full the container is. 2 types of FCL used
are 20ft and 40ft.
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Container dimensions
40ft container 40ft high cube

20ft container
Inside length 5.89m 12.01m
Inside width 2.33m 2.33m
Inside height 2.38m 2.38m
Door width 2.33m 2.33m
Door height 2.28m 2.28m
Capacity 33.18cbm 67.67cbm
(28 cbm in practical) (58 cbm in practical)
Tare weight 2229kg 3701kg
Maximum load 28000kg 28000kg
Lesser than Container Load enables importers to ship smaller amounts of cargo that’s not of a
large enough volume. LCL is charged based on the volume, set in cubic meters. LCL shipping is
a cost-effective solution for smaller shipments as you only need to pay for the volume of
the space used.
FCL/LCL Differences:
1. FCL shipment will be loaded and sealed at origin by your supplier or the manufacturer, then
shipped by a combination of ocean, road or/and rail to your final destination.
The LCL shipment will be exposed for consolidating once at the loading port, and for sorting out
again at the destination port.
2. The bill of lading of FCL shipment will be issued directly by the official shipping line.
The bill of lading of LCL shipment will be issued by the freight forwarder.
3. LCL service charges more than FCL when it comes to shipping cost per unit.
4. Shipping mark, which is written symbol or symbols that are printed on outer package, is
mandatory for LCL shipment.
Advantages of FCL over LCL:
1. FCL can be tracked directly from the shipping company.
2. FCL shipment will be safer.

52
3. LCL shipments will take longer to process.
4. FCL unit freight cost will be cheaper.
In SSAL, GOHs (Garment On Hanger) is shipped through FCL and garment packed in cartons
are shipped through LCL.
Mode of shipment is generally by sea. Nearest port is Chennai. Hence the loaded truck is first
sent to Chennai and then the delivery is done to the respective country. In case of very late
orders, shipment is done through air and the cost of air shipment is borne by the company.
The incoterms followed for the shipment are FOB (Free On Board) and CIF (Cost, Insurance and
Freight). FOB is the one in which the delivery of goods on board the vessel at the port of origin
is at the seller’s expense. Buyer is responsible for loading fee, main carriage/freight, cargo
insurance and other costs risks. CIF is the one in which the seller must in addition procure and
pay for insurance for the cargo insurance and delivery of goods to the port of destination and the
buyer responsible for the import customs clearance & other costs and risks.
KEY OBSERVATIONS
 BRFS & EXPRESS demand for box packaging

 There are total 7 dehumidifiers installed inside the warehouse (Durex brand).
Temperature varies from 25 deg to 32 deg Celsius.
 OCR (Order completion report) is made which covers all the information related to a
particular order for eg. Po no., cut quantities, order quantities etc.
 CT-PAT Copy – It is basically an agreement that enlists anti-terrorism norms.
 LOADING
 Hammer test is done to check any hollow region inside the container.
 While dispatching, pictures at 25%, 50% and 100% of loading is taken and sent to
the buyer as a form of proof.
 Konaka requires packaging space of 4 fingers between each garment while other
buyers have no such demands.
 Out of 1-50 lot of garments, 8 samples are checked. If rejection – the garments goes for
rescreening or alteration.
 Sometimes, when in an order, the company fails to dispatch the required no. of garments
to the buyer, it sends of the remaining garments along with next order.
 When an order gets delayed, air shipment is carried out, but the cost incurred is too high.
 The polycovers in which the garments gets packed, have a specified width, length and
grain (thickness of about 100 grain)
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2.4.9. Industrial engineering department

Industrial engineering department is the brain of any industry and garment industry is no other
exception. The industrial engineering department is responsible for all the factory operations.
The operation of this department starts from the receipt of the order from the buyer. Once the
customers place the order the merchandise department forwards the order to the industrial
engineering department for the processing. They then prepare the CM cost (cut make cost). This
includes Operational run:
 SAM (standard allocated minute) for each individual operation
 Cost per machine hour is calculated
 Standard achievable efficiency, etc. are calculated and forwarded back to the
merchandise department
The operation continues once the order is confirmed. The APS or the Approved Production
Sample is given to the department, here the sequence of the process is studied, and the necessary
suggestions for changes are made if required. And also in the receipt of the confirmed order the
complete operation bulletin is prepared, along with all the attachments, guidelines and files the
documents are forwarded to the production department with all other accessories.
They also have certain functions like going to the line while the batch is set, during menu style
loading and so on. They ensure the process is running smoothly the go for continues checking till
the first product comes out. After that they will have a periodic check for line balancing exercise
for productivity improvement. They also monitor the manpower allotment. The finally the
reports generate and the performance is evaluated as per the actual target and the achievement
and the same report is sent to the management. The industrial engineering department also under
takes projects, setting up lines maintenance &utility, R&D activities etc.
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2.4.10. Maintenance department

The department is responsible for all the maintenance activities in the organization. This
department does all sorts of maintenance, the machine maintenance, utility equipment
maintenance, and other maintenance in the lines.
Organisation Structure
The Head Manufacturing (GM) heads the department. The Manager Maintenance reports to the
Head Manufacturing (GM) regarding the activities in the Maintenance Department. The
Assistant Manager Maintenance supports the manager and has five senior executive and twenty
junior executives reporting to him.
Figure17: Hierarchy in maintenance department

Work done by maintenance department:
 Servicing of machine.
 Checking of Boilers for steam.
 Electricity supply—if power is gone then starting of generator.
 Building maintenance.
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 Oil change.
 Replacement of defective parts
 Servicing of Motor.
 Checking of Motor.
Functions of maintenance apart from machine maintenance include:

 Steam & Boiler
 Vacuum& Compressor
 Air pollution control
 Electricity related issues
 Housekeeping
 Water recycling
 Gardening
 Sewage Treatment Plant
 Plumbing Work
 Carpentry Work etc.
2.4.11. IT department
The information technology department consists of 3 people in all.
The ERP used is STAGE, on which end to end documents are synchronized from purchase order
till shipment confirmation. The software is updated as soon as the latest version is available. It
has been upgraded 4 times since adopted. It accommodates 50 users.
Other than the ERP, other software usage is in CAD/CAM department. Gerber 6.0 was adopted
in 2004 during the establishment of the facility.
The department follows a proper set Standard Operating Procedures. It states the terms and
conditions about the usage of data by each and every employee along with their login id and
password and other authorization details.
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2.4.12. Human resource department

Department Structure
Figure18: Department structure of HRD
The Human Resource Department is headed by the HR manager, under who is the assistant
manager.
The department also comprises of junior managers for different sectors like Recruitment,
Welfare, Transportation and Payroll. The total strength of the department is 16, including various
office assistants and trainers.
The recruitment can be in various formats like Campus placement Cells, In-office recruitment,
Recommendations or Walk-In Interviews depending on the requirements of various departments
prior in hand with the HR.
Every employee and operator is made to set up a new salary account in which the paychecks are
deposited every month. A muster roll and absentee register is maintained for proper records. All
the operators are on a fixed wage basis. Overtime is paid as double the amount of their basic.
The HR is also responsible for making sure the presence of floaters and contracted labour.
The welfare segment takes care of the basic amenities of the operators since 95% of them are
female operators. They are provided with the facility of Child-Day care. Also once in a month,
the operators are engaged in recreational activities.
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2.4.13. Quality Control Department

The objective of the quality control department is to deliver quality product by thoroughly
checking the quality of the product produced by the production department as per the
requirement of the buyer.
Quality Assurance department has its presence in every stages of the production. The Quality
Assurance Department’s function starts with receipt of the fabric that is, once the fabric and
trims reaches the stores the quality of the fabric and trims are checked. The operation continues
throughout cutting and sewing process.
After each operation the quality checks are done and in the finishing department a detailed
quality check is done and is sent for alteration in case of any defects, finally approve the trousers
and jackets for packing.
The objective of quality department:

 To impart quality in the product
 To ensure that the product has achieved the quality parameters of buyers.
 To restrict the defects entering into the final product
Sub objectives:
 To check the products for any defects
 To send back the pieces for alteration
 To recheck the altered pieces for any defects possible
 To clear the product for packing and shipment
Organization Structure
The Head Manufacturing (GM) heads the department. Plant Manager assists the GM in all the
manufacturing activities. The Quality Assurance Manager reports to the Plant Manager. The shift
in charge supports the Quality Assurance managers in the quality checking operations. There are
twelve quality controller and sixty-nine quality checkers reporting to the Quality Assurance
managers.
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Quality hierarchy of SSAL
Figure19: Quality hierarchy
QC in stores - raw material inspection
Figure 20: Quality procedure in stores
59
Quality in cutting
Figure 21: Quality procedure in cutting
After spreading, the fabric ply is pulled with the help of perforated paper to the automatic cutter.
Fabric is cut through automatic cutting machine.
Cutting inspection criteria

100% cut blocks (top/mid/bottom pieces) are inspected with the pattern by stationary checkers
for below mentioned points:
 Notch depth/missing notch
 Wrong size
 Wrong serial number
 Panel length/width
 Parts missing
 Mismatch stripe/checks
 Bowing cut parts
 Shape off/wavy cut
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Quality In Fusing
Figure 22: Quality procedure in fusing

Quality in sewing
Figure 23: Quality procedure in sewing

100% inspection of jacket& trouser is practiced in the company.
Parts
1. Front & Back inspection report of Quality checking.
2. Front Measurement inspection random.
3. Lining inspection Quality report.
End line
1. End line Inspection report for 100% inspection.
2. End line inspection report for random measurement.

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Jacket
Figure 24: Zones in a jacket
Zone A Top Quality Surface exposed to close customer scrutiny & affecting the finished
appearance of garment. (Front & Back Section of Jacket)
Zone B Surface area where spots are less conspicuous to customer viewing (Under Sleeve &
Upper Sleeve)
Zone C Internal Surface that are somewhat hidden from Customer view. (Inside of Jacket i.e.
lining)
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Trouser
Figure 25: Zones in a trouser
ZONE A: Top quality surface exposed to close customer security & affecting the finished
appearance of the garment
ZONE B: Surface area where spots are less conspicuous to customer viewing
ZONE C: Internal surface that are somewhat hidden from customer view
Quality in finishing
Figure 26: Quality procedure in finishing

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2.4.14. Made to measure

Raymond Group Company provides a mass customization to customers of suits and trousers.
Made to measure typically refers to the clothing that is sewn from a standard size base pattern.
The base pattern is altered according to the measurement & fit required by the particular
customer.
The concept behind made-to-measure is to provide the customer a tailored fit garment with high
quality like readymade garments, with the fabric, trims, style & design according to the need of
the customer. Since the made to measure garment is manufactured by following the traditional
method of measurement and industrial method of manufacturing with much attention to minute
detailing, its quality is like and even better than the ready to wear garments.
The steps followed by made-to-measure can be summarized as:-

 Taking measurements of the customer.
 Getting the closest try on garment and trying that on the garment.
 Pinning the trial garment according to the need and fit of the customer
 Taking the pictures to help the pattern master to understand the fit requirement and to
work on intuition.
 Selection of the fabric, style by the customer
 Conveying all the collected data to the manufacturing unit
 Selecting the base size and doing the alteration according to the need of the customer
 Developing the customized garment
Made to measure differs from ready to wear garments

 The garment is made according to the measurement of the customer, so it gives a proper
fit.
 MTM garments are made in industrial way with advanced technology and thus minimize
human errors.
 MTM gives the customer the advantage of choosing the fabric, style and trims.
 MTM allows the customer to customize the garment from start to finish.
 The final garment produced is of high quality.

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MTM department at SSAL

This is a totally separate department at silver spark, which deals with made to measure garments,
i.e. Jackets and trousers. This department started in 2006, but truly it came into existence after a
huge research and development of 2 years in the year 2008.
Working process flow of made to measure garment
Figure 27: Process flow at MTM
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Terminology frequently used in made to measure (MTM department)
 Try ons- try ons are the jacket/ trouser/ waist coat which is of different sizes and styles. It
is the set from which a customer uses for the trial purpose. It is always kept in the retail
store/ shop floor for the trial basis. For men, the try on set is of 5 different drops (0, 2, 4,
6, and 8) from sizes
 Jacket/ trouser size- the sizes correspond to the half of the chest measurement (for
jacket) and half of the waist measurement (for trouser). As an example if the chest is of
100 cm the size of the jacket is 50. And if the waist is 80cm the size of the trouser is 40
 Drop- it is defined as difference as the difference between half of chest measurement and
half of waist measurement.
For eg - If chest size is 40 and waist size is 32 then drop will be (40 - 32)/2 = 4
For drop:
2: 44-64 - (11 sizes)
4: 44-64 - (11 sizes)
6: 44-64 - (11 sizes)
8: 42-64 - (12 sizes)
0: 44-70 - (14 sizes)
Sub Departments Of MTM

 CAD Department
This sub department works on the principle when orders are made by customer in the
shop and received from the internet or dot net softwareto the cad department. And
then this department makes the track sheets, alteration of patterns according to the
customer requirements, makes the marker, put a sample swatch of the fabric and write
the code for threads, linings, buttons and wash care labels.
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 Fabric And Trim Store

There is a various collection of fabric and trims that is stored in the form of rolls. The
collection may be of all black, exclusive collection, premium jacket, premium
collection, premium trouser, wool rich and pure wool. Also there is collection of
labels, threads, buttons, and hook and bar, etc.
 Cutting Department
The fabric is received from the fabric store with the help of track sheet. The fabric is
spread, cut, numbered, fused, ready cut and checked before it is loaded to the sewing
lines.
 SEWING DEPARTMENT
This department receives the input from the cutting department. All the cut parts are
attached sequentially in order to make the desired product. During sewing, quality is
maintained at each operation and the final product is quality approved. The various
operations in this department are the sewing, trimming, quality check, etc.
 FINISHING DEPARTMENT
The stitched garment is sent to the finishing department for the final finish of the
garment. This department enhances the look. They provide a final touch to the
garment through ironing and finishing tools.
 PACKAGING DEPARTMENT
The finished garment is packed into the corrugated box and is taped properly to
prevent any kind of damage that can be caused to it during shipment.
 DISPATCH
The packed garment is then supply to the concerned store where the order was placed,
through the courier services.
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3.1 ABSTRACT
The emergence of fast changes in fashion has given rise to the need to shorten production cycle
times in the garment industry. As effective usage of resources has significant effects on the
productivity and efficiency of production operations, garment manufacturers are urged to utilize
their resources effectively so as to meet dynamic customer demand. Manufacturing has evolved
considerably since the advent of industrial revolution. In current global and competitive age, it is
very important for organization to have manufacturing practice which is lean, efficient, cost-
effective and flexible.
World class manufacturing is a collection of concepts, which set standard for production and
manufacturing for another organization to follow. Japanese manufacturing is credited with
pioneer in concept of world-class manufacturing. World class manufacturing was introduced in
the automobile, electronic and steel industry.
There are three main principles, which drive world-class manufacturing.

 Implementation of just in time and lean management leads to reduction in wastage
 thereby reduction in cost.
 Implementation of total quality management leads to reduction of defects and
 encourages zero tolerance towards defects.
 Implementation of total preventive maintenance leads to any stoppage of
 production through mechanical failure.
The main aspects of the world-class manufacturing are as follows:

 Industrial culture area
 Market/client area
 Product development area
 Operations area
 E-Performance area
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3.2. INTRODUCTION
The project was conducted in jacket sewing line -3 of Silver Sparks Apparel Ltd. (Unit-1). Styles
which usually run in this line are BRFS, Charles Tyrwhitt, Sacoor Brother, Reiss and Conti
Poland. Total budgeted operators are 115 and total numbers of machines are 126. The Target per
day of this line is 410.They generate different types of reports such as Daily output report,
Absenteeism report, Loading report, Quality report, Hourly production report, Monthly
Production report, DHU report. Manufacturing system which is used for producing Jackets is
Unit product system manufacturing system where they group the operators in teams or modules.
They have totally 5 sections which are Front, Sleeve, Lining, Collar and Assembly. Conveyors
are used to transport the piece from one workstation to another in Front & Assembly section
whereas in Sleeve &Lining, hangers are used to move the piece. The piece from Front, Sleeve,
and Lining are taken to Assembly section manually. The layout of this line is “U.” The length of
the line is “184 sq.ft” whereas width of front section and assembly section are 23 sqft.
3.3. OBJECTIVE
 Represent as a world class manufacturing line
 Production no increase (226 to 410) pcs.
 Productivity (2.24 to 4 ) improvement of jacket line 3
 Efficiency (36 to 65 ) % improvement of jacket line 3
Background:
● To increase the overall output level of the line.

● Reduce Setup time
● Focus on bottleneck operations
Problem Statement:
● Bottleneck clearance
● 0 floater for absent cover
● Productivity (2.24%)
● Quality issue ( production loss 20%DHU)
● Inventory (600)
● Average last month production - 226
● Efficiency (36.7%)
69
● Production loss due to -

➢ Machine breakdown
➢ Changeover time
➢ Setup time (60 min)
Goals:
● Increase hourly output

● Prevent machine breakdown (Maintenance)
● Allocation (Manning) according to desired skill set
● Clear bottleneck operations
● Productivity (2.24% - 4%)
● Inventory (600-445)
● Avg. production (224 - 410)
● Efficiency (36.7% - 65%)
● Achieve budget production
Dependencies
● Machine availability
● Absenteeism
● Feeding from stores and cutting
● Worker’s efficiency
● Inventory management
● Skill inventory
Project Plan:
PHASE DATE
DEFINE 09.06.18
ANALYSE 23.06.18
DESIGN 14.07.18
PILOT 25.07.18
IMPLEMENT 11.08.18
Table 4: project plan
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Major Focus Areas of the Project:
1. Line balancing
2. Missing pieces
3. Bottleneck operation clearance
4. Pitch analysis report
5. Hourly output
6. Breakdown (Preventive)
7. Productivity, efficiency
3.4. LITERATURE REVIEW

3.4.1. World Class Manufacturing
The Indian Apparel Industry mostly consists of small and medium scale manufacturers for whom
the seasonal nature of the business does not provide enough incentive to invest in modern
technology. Labour intensive nature of the industry having abundant availability of cheap
manpower does not perceive investment in high-technology/automated machines as an attractive
proposition.
Further most of the small manufacturers perceive quality management systems such as ISO too
complex without immediate tangible gains. In addition the industry is plagued with high attrition
rate at both lower and middle management level. With little internal career advancement
opportunity, employees flee at the slightest provocation/opportunity. This further deters
management to invest in training and development, since probability of losing trained manpower
is always higher.
Need to move towards world-class manufacturing:
Over the years, a few apparel manufacturers have started investing in technology and quality
management systems. There are a few factors that differentiate these manufacturers from others.
Firstly these companies have vision to create a world-class manufacturing facility (WCM) to
develop a sustainable business environment. This requires commitment from top management
and ability to look beyond ones nose. More importantly, changing dynamics of international
apparel trade and competition from emerging new economies have compelled manufacturers to
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invest in quality systems and technology that assures higher productivity and improved bottom
line. Many large companies are now using ERP systems not only as order tracking tool but also
for performance monitoring and incentive calculations, etc.
Though tools such as Lean, Six Sigma, Kaizen, Modular Manufacturing, and TPM are in vogue
in automobile and pharmaceutical industry for quite some time, one should apply caution and
consider careful evaluation of needs and objectives before implementing them in apparel
business.
Process Improvement/Quality Management systems for apparel business
Experiences have shown that for successful implementation of any Process improvement
/Quality management system, factories should implement work place management through 5-S
as a foundation tool.
3.4.2. Work Place Management: 5-S
The 5S is the methodology of creation and maintaining well organized, clean, and effective
workplace. Its result is the effective organisation of the workplace, elimination of losses
connected with failures and breaks, improvement of the quality and safety of work. Name 5S is
the acronym of five Japanese words of the following meanings: Seri (sort), Seiton (set in order),
Seiso (shine), Seiketsu (standardise), Shitsuke (sustain).Implementing 5-S in apparel industry has
shown to improvement in team work besides imparting problem solving ability in work force. It
also brings objective decision-making in the process (Quality Control department).
3.4.3. Kaizen
The labour intensive nature of the garment industry makes quality system and hence
improvement process impossible if the operator level work force is not included in improvement
process. In such a scenario Kaizen (Japanese words “kai" means continuous or change and “zen"
means improvement) a Japanese management strategy is observed to provide continuous
improvement starting from lowest level in manufacturing.
72
The key aspect of Kaizen is that it is an on-going, never-ending improvement process. The
kaizen system is based on incremental innovation, where employees are encouraged to make
small changes in their work area on an on-going basis. The cumulative effect of all these little
changes over time can be quite significant, especially if all of the employees within a company
and its leaders are committed to this philosophy.
Improvements are usually accomplished at little or no expense without sophisticated techniques

or expensive equipment. Kaizen focuses on simplification by breaking down complex processes
into their sub processes and then improving them. Everyone is encouraged to come up with small
improvement suggestions on a regular basis. In the first stage, management makes every effort to
help the workers provide suggestions, no matter how primitive, for the improvement of the
worker's job and the workshop. This will help the workers look at the way they are doing their
jobs. In the second stage, management should stress employee education so that employees can
provide better suggestions. To enable workers to provide better suggestions, they should be
equipped to analyze problems and the environment.
Main subjects for suggestions are, in order of importance
1. Improvement in one's own work.

2. Savings in energy, material and other resources.
3. Improvement in the working environment.
4. Improvements in machines and processes.
5. Improvements in tools.
6. Improvements in office work.
7. Improvements in product quality.
8. Ideas for new products.
Practical experience in implementing Kaizen has shown increased participation of workforce in

problem solving process. This has helped in improvement in productivity and quality through
implementation of small changes as indicated by operators in work place lay out, attachments,
methods improvement and material handlings equipment, etc.
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3.4.4. Lean Manufacturing System
Labour intensive industry like apparel manufacturing having level of manual work generates
huge amount of wastes. These wastes are categorised lean philosophy into different heads. Lean
manufacturing uses set of tools and methodologies that aims for the continuous elimination of all
waste in the production process. The main benefits of this are lower production costs; increased
output and shorter production lead times. More specifically, some of the goals include:
1. Reduction of defects and wastage: Reduce defects and unnecessary physical wastage,
including excess use of raw material inputs, preventable defects, costs associated with
reprocessing defective items, and unnecessary product characteristics which are not
required by customers.
2. Cycle times: Reduce manufacturing lead times and production cycle times by reducing
waiting times between processing stages, as well as process preparation times and
product conversion times.
3. Inventory levels: Minimise inventory levels at all stages of production, particularly
works-in-progress between production stages. Lower inventories also mean lower
working capital requirements.
4. Labour productivity: Improve labour productivity, both by reducing the idle time of
workers and ensuring that when workers are working, they are using their effort as
productively as possible (including not doing unnecessary tasks or unnecessary motions).
5. Utilisation of equipment and space: Use equipment and manufacturing space more
efficiently by eliminating bottlenecks and maximising the rate of production though
existing equipment, while minimising machine downtime.
6. Flexibility: Have the ability to produce a more flexible range of products with minimum
changeover costs and changeover time.
7. Output: In so far as reduced cycle times, increased labour productivity and elimination
of bottlenecks and machine downtime can be achieved, factories can generally
significantly increased output from their existing facilities.
Most of these benefits lead to lower unit production costs; for example, more effective use of
equipment and space leads to lower depreciation costs per unit produced, more effective use of
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labour results in lower labour costs per unit produced and lower defects lead to lower cost of
goods sold.
Since describing all lean tools is beyond the scope of the subject, authors have found great
impact in implementing following tools in apparel factories.
3.4.5. Lean Layout
Lean Layouts are designed to optimise production per space used, by avoiding extra storage,
WIP and reverse movements. This can be implemented through
1. Cellular Manufacturing.
2. Combination of Cellular and Modular Manufacturing.
3. Star Layouts (Hub and Spoke Model).
Practically, it requires clubbing and splitting of operations with high amount of multi-tasking
which results self-content work cells that guarantee low levels of work in progress.
3.4.6.Super Market System
Andon is a method used to expose abnormalities within the production process. A simple andon
enabled super market can be effectively used to trigger start and stop of cutting operation based
on inventory level for sewing lines.
3.4.7. Poka Yoke
Poka Yoke or Fool Proofing, preliminary aims for designing the product, process such that
opportunities for errors to be generated are eliminated. It works on the following principles:
1. That it is natural for people to make mistakes.

2. Detects an error as it is being made.
3. Detects an error soon after it has been made but before it reaches the next operation.
4. Over-production, excess inventory and inappropriate processing may result into increased
amount of mistakes.
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5. Built-in safeguards in to the process helps reducing chances of errors.
Practically in apparel industry Poka Yoke can be implemented using following three methods:
Contact type helps by physically guiding the manufactured produce with little or no human
intervention to produce goods that conforms the requirements. Example of fixed value systems
are programmable systems, which work as per values punched usually in microprocessors like
profile stitcher motion step types are fully automatic robotics systems that carry out material
handling, sewing, and disposal functions thereby eliminating human errors associated with
handling, placement, fatigue, etc.
3.4.8. Training and Development
Most of these companies that have embarked on journey towards world-class manufacturing
have also give great impetus to human Resource Development. Career path development is
practiced as continuous Improvement initiative by offering more internal growth opportunities.
Charting of career path up to the level of the operators is practiced so that, those operators who
perform well and improve their skills reach supervisory or junior management level with in a
defined time frame. Further internal training has been adapted as a standard procedure for new
recruits as well as for multi-skilling.
Comprehensive training schedules covering technical, managerial and soft skills are practised as
an on-going process. Training also includes sessions, which educate the operators of the
advantage of staying put with a company in terms of accrued benefits. Besides incentives and
other related benefits, these companies also keep the workforce informed regularly of the
company's overall direction and other major developments.
This process creates a sense of belonging among the workers. Apart from attrition, to counter
absenteeism these companies conduct counseling sessions to resolve work related issues;
domestic issues are also resolved through NGO participation. These companies are also
proactive to tame absenteeism related issues by providing transport facilities, conducting
preventive medical camps and addressing problems like family planning that have a direct
bearing on absenteeism.
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3.4.9. Principles of Economy
Experimentation and form a good basis for the development of improved methods at the
workplace. They are classified as three main types:
A. Use of human body,
B. Arrangement of the workplace,
C. Design of tools and equipment.
3.4.9.1. The four principles of motion economy
1. Reduce the Number of Motions: Eliminate or reduce the number of motions

2. Perform Motions Simultaneously: Design improvements in the methods and tools which
allow both hands to be used at the same time
3. Shorten Motion Distances : Reduce - walking, reaching, stretching, squatting and turning,
etc.
4. Make Motion Easier :Work should be smooth and rhythmical, reduce fatigue and promote
safety
A) Use of human body

When possible –
1. The two hands should begin and complete their movements at the same time.
2. The two hands should not be idle at the same time except during periods of rest.
3. Motion of arms should be symmetrical and in opposite directions and should be made
simultaneously.
4. Hand and body motion should be made at the lowest classification at which it is possible to
work satisfactorily.
5.. Free-swinging movements are faster, easier and more accurate than restricted or controlled
movements.
6. Rhythm is essential to the smooth and automatic performance of a repetitive operation.
7. Work should be arranged so that eye movements are confined to a comfortable area, without
the need for frequent changes of focus.
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Classification of Pivot Body parts moved

movements Class
1 Knuckle Fingers
2 Wrist Hand + above
3 Elbow Forearm + above
4 Shoulder Upper arm + above
5 Trunk Torso + above
Table5: Movement classification
B) Arrangement of the workplace

1. Definite and fixed station should be provided for all tools and materials to permit habit
formation.
2. Tools and materials should be pre-positioned to reduce searching.
3. Gravity feed, bins and containers should be used to deliver the materials as close to the point
of use as possible.
4. Tools, materials and controls should be located within the maximum working area and as near
to the worker as possible.
5. Materials and tools should be arranged to permit the best sequence of motions.
6. The color of workplace should contrast with that of the work and thus reduce eye fatigue.
7. “Drop deliveries” or ejectors should be used wherever possible so that the operator does not
have to use his hands to dispose of the finished work.
8. Provision should be made for adequate lighting, and a chair of the type and height to permit
good posture should be provided.
9. The height of the workplace and seat should be arranged to allow alternative standing and
sitting.
C) Design of tools and equipment.

1. The hand should be relieved of all work of holding the work-piece where this can be done by a
jig, fixture or foot-operated device.
2. Two or more tools should be combined wherever possible.
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3. Where each finger performs specific movements, the load should be distributed in accordance
with the inherent capacities of the fingers.
4. Handles such as those on cranks and large screwdrivers should be designed so as to permit as
much of the surface of the hand as possible to come in contact with the handle.
5. Levers, crossbars and hand-wheels should be so placed that the operator can use them with the
least change in body position and the greatest “mechanical advantage.”
Some of the important Principles are:

1. The movements of the two hands should be balanced and the two hands should begin and end
their motions simultaneously (refer Figure 1).
2. The hands should be doing productive work and should not be idle at the same time except
during rest periods.
3. Motions of the hands should be made in opposite and symmetrical direction and at the same
time (refer Figure 2).
4. The work should be arranged to permit it to be performed with an easy and natural rhythm.
5. Momentum and ballistic-type movements should be employed wherever possible in order to
reduce muscular effort.
6. There should be a definite location for all tools and materials, and they should be located in
front of and close to the worker.
7. Bins or other devices should be used to deliver the materials close to the point of use.
8. The workplace should be designed to ensure adequate illumination, proper workplace height,
and provision for alternate standing and sitting by the operator.
9. Wherever possible, jigs, fixtures, or other mechanical devices should be used to relieve the
hands of unnecessary work.
10. Tools should be prepositioned wherever possible in order to facilitate grasping them.
11. Object should be handled, and information recorded.
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Elimination
1) Eliminate possible job, steps, or motion
2) Eliminate irregularities in a job so as to facilitate automaticity
3) Eliminate the use of hand as holding device
4) Eliminate awkward or abnormal motion
5) Eliminate the use of muscle to maintain a fixed position
6) Eliminate muscular force by using power tools, power feeds, etc.
7) Eliminate overcoming of momentum
8) Eliminate danger
9) Eliminate idle time unless needed for rest
80
Figure28:Ideal work area for operator
3.4.10. Time study

The productivity in garment sector depends on many factors. Time and motion study is very
important factor that control the productivity of garment sector. In garment sector to make the
shipment in exact time it is very necessary set a target for sewing section. The total work of the
sewing section is completed by different operator. So without a standard target it is impossible to
reach the goal. To set a standard target time and motion study is mandatory.
A work measurement technique for recording the times and rates of working for the elements
within specific conditions, and for analyzing the data so as to determine the time necessary for
carrying out a job at a defined level of performance.
Productivity can be defined as the ratio of output in a period of time to the input in the same
period time. Productivity can thus be measured as:
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Productivity = Output (In period of time) / Input (In the same period)
In simple terms productivity is the quantitative relationship between what we produce (output)
and the resources (inputs) which we used.
Standard Minute Value (SMV) :

Standard minute value is the standard time, to complete any given task by using best possible
methods at standard level of performance. To estimate SMV we have to analyze the garment
carefully and check different factors that affect the SMV. SMV of a product varies according to
the work content or simply according to number of operations, length of seams, fabric types,
stitching accuracy needed, sewing technology to be used etc.
3.4.11. Pitch Diagram

Pitch time: In industrial Engineering, Pitch time is a ratio of total SAM of garment and number
of operations to be set for the style. Or
Pitch Time = Garment SAM/No. of operations.
Pitch time is used for line setting and calculating production target for the line.
A graphical presentation of individual operation’s time (SAM) and pitch time on a same chart is
called pitch diagram.
Figure 29: Example of pitch diagram

Pitch time is to calculating machine requirement in each operation. Pitch diagram is used for line
balancing in an assembly line. Pitch diagram is made on operator’s production capacity per hour
and target quantity per hour in pieces for easy understanding.
82
3.5. INITIAL READINGS
3.5.1. Pitch analysis charts
 The average daily required output is 410 pieces.

 The required pitch time for 410 pieces is 1.05 minutes or 63.22 seconds.
 Therefore the required output per hour is 57pieces.
 Operations done by each operator is noted down along with their cycle times.
 A 10% allowance is added to the average cycle time.
 With this time the output per hour and per shift given by that operator on that operation is
calculated.
 This data is compared with the required output per hour and shift to find critical
operations.
 This data is also used to find the number of required operators for the particular
operation.
 The line can be balanced to get the required output per hour
 For this re-distribute the work load of Critical operations to other operations where pitch
time is less than required pitch time.
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Front
PITCH DIAGRAM
SECTION Jacket DATE 11.06.18
LINE 3 SUPERVISOR
SUB SECTION FRONT OBSERVER Rohini
Average Daily Requirement ( ADR ): 410
Required Pitchtime ( R.P.T.)- Mins ( for 8 hrs work with 10 % allowance ) = 0.9 x480 /ADR = 1.05366 ( Sec = ) 63.22
Required output per Hour = 60/ R. P.T. = 57 65
OBSERVED TIME (OT) O.P.H. ( Output/ Required

Sq.NO EMP NAME EMP.NO OPERATION NAME No of station AVERAGE (OT) AVERAGE (OT) + 10% Hour )
OPS
Operator
Remarks
1 2 3 4 5
10 Parvati 2025 Side panel attach 1 67 55 84 62 68 67.2 73.92 49 390 1.05
20 Kantamma 25716 Fuse dart plus side panel 1 59 52 38 63 52 52.8 58.08 62 496 0.83
30 Chanchala 25119 Breast pocket attach 1 83 82 86 84 87 84.4 92.84 39 310 1.32
40 Vasantamma 17776 Breast Pocket Zigzag 1 49 72 53 72 72 63.6 69.96 51 412 1.00
50 Shashikala 27779 Pocket bag attach 1 58 48 55 64 59 56.8 62.48 58 461 0.89
60 Mahadevi 20465 Pocket bag close 1 52 58 54 60 52 55.2 60.72 59 474 0.86
70 Padma 23822 Dart Pressing 1 52 46 43 48 50 47.8 52.58 68 548 0.75
80 muneratna 25299 Pocket welting 1 35 48 31 53 35 40.4 44.44 81 648 0.63
90 Sarasamma 26442 pocket trimming 1 4 4 3 5 4 4
29.2 123 986 0.42
100 Sarasamma 26442 pocket pressing 1 31 21 21 27 26 25.2
110 Laxmi 27149 Breast pocket notch and turn 1 47 47 49 41 50 46.8 51.48 70 559 0.73
120 Hemavathi 28512 fusing canvas 1 89 92 107 87 106 100 110 33 262 1.57
130 Lavanya 27545 Canvas blind hem 1 63 50 48 65 58 56.8 62.48 58 461 0.89
140 Saraswati 25956 Body press 1 58 53 56 58 57 56.4 62.04 58 464 0.88
150 Gauramma 28163 Center Back 1 75 80 82 77 84 79.6 87.56 41 329 1.25
160 Muniratna 24995 Excess canvas cutting 1 126 86 82 77 84 91 100.1 36 288 1.43
170 Shashikala 27779 Shoulder pad basting 1 58 46 85 60 57 61.2 67.32 53 428 0.96
180 Gayatri 25398 Side seam attach 1 89 201 179 178 204 170.2 187.22 19 154 2.67
190 Laxmidevamma 22607 Side seam press 1 82 79 83 80 79 80.6 88.66 41 325 1.26
200 Methrangamma 27071 Bottom press 1 82 80 88 77 81 81.6 89.76 40 321 1.28
210 Mamta 28492 Shoulder seam 1 66 87 113 125 94 97 106.7 34 270 1.52
220 K.Suma 28407 Vent making 1 143 144 124 78 82 114.2 125.62 29 229 1.79
230 Adilaxmi 28427 Shoulder press 1 103 100 102 105 100 102 112.2 32 257 1.60
240 Zarina 22729 Vent press 1 57 59 67 69 65 63.4 69.74 52 413 0.99
250 Sushila 21439 Fullness stitch @ neck 1 31 38 38 45 39 38.2 42.02 86 685 0.60
260 Neerathnamma 25299 Autozig 1 40 42 38 59 33 42.4 46.64 77 617 0.66
270 Nagamma 19066 Flap press 1 13 18 14 16 18 15.8 17.38 207 1657 0.25
TOTAL MANPOWER 34 REQUIRED MANPOWER 28.06
Note: 1. Find all Operatins where the (Combined ) O.P.H. Is less than Required O.P.H. These are known as critical oprations
2. Balance the line to get the Required O.P.H..
3. For this re-distribute the work load of Critical operations to other operations where pitch time is less than required pitch time
Figure 30: Pitch Analysis- Front Section
On comparison with the average daily requirement the following operations are considered
critical operations:
 Side panel attach

 Breast pocket attach
 Fusing canvas
 Centre back
 Excess canvas cutting
 Side seam attach
 Side seam press
 Bottom press
 Shoulder seam
 Vent making
 Shoulder press
84
.The required manpower for the front section is 28.06 while available is 34. This shows that
operators can be re allocated within the section.
Lining

LINE 3 SUPERVISOR
SUB SECTION LINING OBSERVER Rohini
OBSERVED TIME (OT)

Sq.NO EMP NAME EMP.NO OPERATION NAME No of station AVERAGE (OT) AVERAGE (OT) + 10% O.P.H. ( Output/ Hour ) OPS Required Operator Remarks
1 2 3 4 5
10 SHANTAMMA 27374 COLLAR ATTACH 1 46.7 60.2 64.3 60.2 61.56 59 64 56 447 0.92
20 RADHAMMA 28161 NECK & COLLAR PRESS 1 49.3 39.5 46.8 41.21 41.78 44 48 75 599 0.68
30 LAKSHAMMA 26403 SWEAT PAD ATTACH 1 50.01 56.62 51.23 55.55 52.39 53 58 62 493 0.83
40 NGARATNAMMA 24287 BRIDAL TAPE ATTACH 1 47.94 49.85 49.44 45.65 43.21 47 52 69 554 0.74
50 SWARNAMMA 25782 FLAP POCKET BAG ATTACH & CLOSE 1 57.88 72.31 72.33 77.89 73.44 71 78 46 370 1.11
60 JAYAMMA 19877 BARTACK 1 37.45 37.65 30.98 35.64 37.88 36 40 91 729 0.56
70 VARLAKSHMI 26732 SIDESEAM 1 79.34 82.31 78.95 83.41 77.63 80 88 41 326 1.26
80 MANGLAMMA 19053 PRESS 1 85.66 87.59 77.56 79.47 81.22 82 91 40 318 1.29
90 AMBIKA 28199 Centre Back Attach and lable attach 1 41.24 42.84 46.93 51.24 43.86 45 50 72 579 0.71
100 SUSHEELA 23396 Side Panel Attach with laBLE 1 59.49 49.81 52.86 53.22 50.1 53 58 62 493 0.83
110 HEMA Wing Facing attach with piping 1 88.96 90.32 84.62 81.23 97.44 89 97 37 296 1.39
120 MANJULA 28006 Facing Press 1 41.23 56.79 52.33 56.77 49.39 51 56 64 510 0.80
130 RADHAMMA 28161 Facing Saddle Stitch 1 63.8 72.44 76.29 55.86 64.96 67 73 49 393 1.04
140 BALU 19512 Pocket Welting 1 52.11 61.3 58.23 55.66 54.76 56 62 58 464 0.88
150 RATNA 19283 Pocket Welting Press 1 38.4 47.72 36.23 41.39 39.11 41 45 81 645 0.64
170 SUVARNAMMA 25782 Main Label Attach 1 41.38 44.63 44.87 49.61 45.22 45 50 72 580 0.71
190 JAYAMMA 19877 Small Pocket Bag & Flap Bag Close 1 41.38 44.63 55.66 49.12 51.59 48 53 68 540 0.76
200 LAKSHMAMMA 26403 Shoulder Attach & Neck Band Stitch 1 51.21 61.81 58.88 55.98 58.69 57 63 57 457 0.90
210 RATHNAMMA 25241 Size label attach 1 29.39 26.38 31.21 26.44 28.11 28 31 116 925 0.44
AVAILABLE MANPOWER 15 REQUIRED MANPOWER 16.49
4. In this study we can observe that flap pocket bag attach, sideseam and press operations are the critical operations here.
Figure 31: Pitch Analysis- Lining Section
 Flap pocket bag attach and close

 Sideseam
 Press
 Wing facing attach with piping
 Facing saddle stitch
The required manpower for the front section is 16.49 while available is 15. This shows that
85
Sleeve
PITCH DIAGRAM
LINE 3 SUPERVISOR
SUB SECTION Sleeve OBSERVER Rohini
OBSERVED TIME (OT)

Sq.NO EMP NAME EMP.NO OPERATION NAME No of station AVERAGE (OT) AVERAGE (OT) + 10% O.P.H. ( Output/ Hour ) OPS Required Operator Remarks
1 2 3 4 5
10 MANSI 27160 SHAM HOLE MAKING AND MARKING 1 35.83 37.38 36.3 36.67 36.73 37 40 89 716 0.57
20 MAMTHA 20775 ELBOW ATTACH 1 78.63 91.35 125.18 67.26 80.43 89 97 37 296 1.39
30 ZAREENA 25612 VENT MAKING 1 33.41 32.37 35.64 32.46 35.38 34 37 97 773 0.53
40 NAGMANI 17904 VENT PRESSING 1 84.36 87.91 87.87 83.48 81.26 85 93 39 308 1.33
50 SARASWATI 16660 VENT TACKING 1 69.24 84.26 63.27 52.66 58.41 66 72 50 399 1.03
60 NIRUPAMA 25794 ELBOW SEAM LINING 1 61.48 63.25 60.14 60.68 61.58 61 68 53 426 0.96
70 SAVITRI 97666 ELBOW PRESSING 1 39.68 32.18 48.78 42.87 43.1 41 45 79 634 0.65
80 GANGNAMMA 23845 INSEAM STITCH 1 60.18 54.48 66.24 58.94 61.32 60 66 54 435 0.94
90 LAKSHMI 27589 INSEAM PRESS 1 62.46 67.77 59.06 54.68 59.29 61 67 54 432 0.95
100 NINGAMMA 27734 LINING AND BOTTOM CLOSE 1 29.84 27.43 26.86 24.03 31.58 28 31 117 937 0.44
110 NETRAVATI 27394 INSEAM AND ELBOW SEAM TACKING 1 46.83 42.31 49.18 51.23 48.86 48 52 69 549 0.75
120 ANITA 27645 SLEEVE PRESS 1 31.99 38.5 26.66 29.26 28.36 31 34 106 846 0.48
130 LAKSHMI DEVI 24986 BOTTOM LINING ATTACH 1 54.8 47.93 56.37 56.37 54.96 54 59 61 484 0.85
AVAILABLE MANPOWER 13 TOTAL REQ. OPERATORS 11
4. In this study, we can observe that elbow attach, vent pressing and vent tacking are the critical operations here.
Figure 32: Pitch Analysis- Sleeve Section
 Elbow attach
 Vent pressing
 Vent tacking
The required manpower for the front section is 11 while available is 13. This shows that
86
Collar
PITCH DIAGRAM
LINE 3 SUPERVISOR
SUB SECTION Collar OBSERVER Rohini
Required output per Hour = 60/ R. P.T. = 57
OBSERVED TIME (OT)

Sq.NO EMP NAME EMP.NO OPERATION NAME No of station AVERAGE (OT) AVERAGE (OT) + 10% COMBINED OT O.P.H. ( Output/ Hour ) Combined OPH OPS COMBINED OPS Required Operator REMARKS
1 2 3 4 5
10 SHWETHA 16215 NECK BAND ATTACH 1 21.59 18.2 16.54 19.46 18.4 19 21 174 1390 0.29
20 SHWETHA 16215 COLLAR MARKING 1 11.36 14.11 12.28 13.41 14.1 13 14 68 251 53 2006 424 0.20
30 SHWETHA 16215 FUSE COLLAR 1 27.27 30.52 31.58 29.67 30.46 30 33 109 876 0.47
40 JABEENA 18836 CHAINSTITCH @ COLLAR FELT 1 34.44 33.9 27.59 28.84 29.68 31 34 34 106 106 848 848 0.48
50 KONIKA 22785 PRESSING COLLAR 1 38.63 43.43 38.45 43.27 41.84 41 45 80 637 0.64
75 48 383
60 KONIKA 22785 DOUBLE NEEDLE STITCH FELT 1 29.86 27.37 24.35 26.16 28.23 27 30 120 963 0.43
AVAILABLE MANPOWER 3 TOTAL REQ. OPERATORS 2.52
Figure 33: Pitch Analysis- Collar Section
 Pressing collar
 Double needle stitch felt
The required manpower for the front section is 2.52 while available is 3. This shows that
87
Assembly 1
PITCH DIAGRAM
LINE 3 SUPERVISOR MUFFAZAR
SUB SECTION Assemby 1 OBSERVER Rohini
OBSERVED TIME (OT)

Sq.NO EMP NAME EMP.NO OPERATION NAME No of station AVERAGE (OT) AVERAGE (OT) + 10% O.P.H. ( Output/ Hour ) Combined OPH OPS Required Operator REMARKS
1 2 3 4 5
10 Nagmani 27446 59.1 82.2 77.2 80.9 80 75.88 83.47 43.13
Peak sew 2 73.67 589 1.39
20 Annapurna 14634 105.3 120 111.9 108.9 89.8 107.18 117.90 30.53
30 Chaitra 24720 Collar pressing 1 42.1 39.4 26.6 35.4 37.4 36.18 39.80 90.46 90.46 724 0.57
40 Lakshmidevi 24779 Collar zig zag stitch 1 52.9 54.6 45.11 56.5 51.4 52.102 57.31 62.81 62.81 503 0.82
50 Sashikanth 20081 76.6 66.2 67.2 70.7 68.7 69.88 76.87 46.83
Front edge sew 2 1.61
60 Ashalatha 28433 204 235.7 169.4 170.3 195.4 194.96 214.46 16.79 63.62 509
70 Lakshmi 19541 Front edge cutting and marking 1 64 73.1 63.4 58.4 72.1 66.2 72.82 49.44 49.44 395 1.04
Front Edge seam open and ticket
Mutyalamma 26345 1 90.6 69.4 80.5 92.8 84.2 83.5 91.85 39.19 39.19 314 1.31
80 removal
90 Gyatri 27848 BTM close 1 74.6 68.1 59.7 74.2 67.9 68.9 75.79 47.50 47.50 380 1.08
100 Tanuja 15193 160.7 177 163.8 151.3 152.6 161.08 177.19 20.32
Bottom lining close 2 2.29
110 Suma 15193 122.7 139.2 127.2 152.5 126.3 133.58 146.94 24.50 44.82 359
120 Jyoti 15915 Collar press 1 75.6 58.6 54 72.5 75.8 67.29 74.02 48.64 48.64 389 1.05
130 Lakshmidevi 27974 Piping press 1 64.2 77 68 72 74.3 71.1 78.21 46.03 46.03 368 1.11
140 Gangamma 23740 Botton press 1 48.4 37.9 42.5 39.7 42.9 42.28 46.51 77.41 77.41 619 0.66
150 Kajal 21419 In line cheking 1 42.5 39 37.4 42.2 45 41.22 45.34 79.40 79.40 635 0.65
160 Sajini 27107 Lapel pressing 1 57.7 114 60 74.9 81.6 77.64 85.40 42.15 42.15 337 1.22
170 Mahaboob 28475 144.9 133.5 177 203.9 168.1 165.48 182.03 19.78
Collar hemming 2 2.28
180 Gayatri 26224 130.3 108.9 131.2 160.6 119.3 130.06 143.07 25.16 44.94 360
190 Pavitra 26747 Button hole marking 1 48.5 42.2 50.2 39.4 57.53 47.566 52.32 68.80 68.80 550 0.74
TOTAL MANPOWER 19 TOTAL REQUIRED MANPOWER 17.81
Figure 34: Pitch Analysis- Assembly 1 Section
 Front edge cutting and marking

 Front edge seam open and ticket removal
 Front bottom tacking
 Bottom lining close
 Collar press
 Piping press
 Lapel press
 Collar hem
The required manpower for the front section is 17.81 while available is 19 . This shows that
88
Assembly 2
PITCH DIAGRAM
SUB SECTION Assemby 2 OBSERVER Rohini
No of AVER
OBSERVED TIME (OT) REMAR
Sq.NO EMP NAME EMP.NO OPERATION NAME statio AVERAGE (OT) AGE O.P.H. ( Output/ Hour ) Combined OPH OPS Required Operator
KS
1 2 3 4 5
n (OT) +
10 Pavitra 27076 Button hole 1 53.2 65.2 50.7 52.7 52.5 54.86 60.35 59.66 59.66 477 0.86
20 C M bhagyamma 23127 126.5 142 147 127 132 134.9 148.4 24.26
sleeve attachment 2
30 lakshmidevi 25718 143 137 158 135 128 140.2 154.2 23.34 47.60 381 2.15
40 renuk 27136 sleeve headroll attach 1 115 90 110 110 82 101.4 111.5 32.28 32.28 258 1.59
50 lathamani .N 26325 sleeve open press 1 80 82 86 85 102 87 95.7 37.62 37.62 301 1.36
60 vanidha 17944 shoulder pad attach 1 52.4 58.1 41.6 48.7 50.2 50.2 55.22 65.19 65.19 522 0.79
70 vanidha 17944 body basting 1 95 99 110 66 60 86 94.6 38.05 38.05 304 1.35
80 jayamma 27971 189 156 179 189 187 180 198 18.18
armhole lining close 2
90 rajeshwari 18530 169 159 179 160 140 161.4 177.5 20.28 38.46 308 2.67
100 Jayashree ` vent top stitch 1 94 89 102 75 97 91.4 100.5 35.81 35.81 286 0.79
Figure 35: Pitch Analysis- Assembly 2 Section
 Sleeve attachment
 Sleeve headroll attach
 Sleeve open press
 Body basting
 Armhole lining close
 Vent top stitch
89
Finishing
PITCH DIAGRAM
SUB SECTION FINISHING OBSERVER rohini
OBSERVED TIME (OT)

Sq.NO EMP NAME EMP.NO OPERATION NAME No of station AVERAGE (OT) AVERAGE (OT) + 10% COMBINED OT O.P.H. ( Output/ Hour ) Combined OPH OPS COMBINED OPS Required Operator REMARKS
1 2 3 4 5
10 Sheik Bibi 27380 Washing 1 21.4 19.4 16.9 17.5 16.8 18.4 20.24 177.87 1423 0.29
89.08 323
20 Sheik Bibi 27380 Shoulder press 1 75.2 56.4 49.8 51.5 80 62.58 68.84 52.30 40.41 418 0.98
30 Mala 25151 Inseam press 1 39.1 29.4 26.9 27.6 37.2 32.04 35.24 35.24 102.15 102.15 817 817 0.50
40 Ratnamma 26024 Sleeve press 1 122.2 111.3 100.3 103.3 131.6 113.74 125.11 125.11 28.77 28.77 230 230 1.78
50 Bhagyamma 23743 Front and back pressing 1 55.4 57.6 52 56 64.3 57.06 62.77 62.77 57.36 57.36 459 459 0.89
60 Kavita 26610 End line checking 1 133.3 153.4 142.5 129.7 130.8 137.94 151.73 151.73 23.73 23.73 190 190 2.16
70 Gangamma 18358 Collar set & Collar felt 1 108 76 76 86 77 84.6 93.06 93.06 38.68 38.68 309 309 1.32
80 Tangemma 26448 elbow pressing 1 73 63 82 74 90 76.4 84.04 84.04 42.84 42.84 343 343 1.20
90 Mala.v 25718 seleve blocking press 1 59.9 57.6 58.7 59.1 80 63.06 69.37 69.37 51.90 51.90 415 415 0.99
100 Saida 25151 109 84 82 74 116 93 102.30 102.30 35.19
lining presssing 2 68.65 549 549 1.49
110 Shashikala 26963 108 98 74 101 108 97.8 107.58 107.58 33.46
120 R.asha 23684 final touchup 1 73 83 72 111 81 84 92.40 92.40 38.96 38.96 312 312 1.32
130 Mamta Rout 26270 button attach &wraping 1 59.3 40.6 52.2 59.1 45.3 51.3 56.43 56.43 63.80 63.80 510 510 0.80
Figure 35: Pitch Analysis- Finishing Section
 Washing
 Shoulder press
 Sleeve press
 End line checking
 Collar set and collar felt
 Elbow pressing
 Final touchup.
more operator are required in this section
90
3.6. OBSERVATIONS AND IMPLEMENTATIONS
3.6.1. Conveyer Changes
In jacket line Front Section & assembly sections have conveyer system where as sleeve , lining
have hanger system. Ideal conveyer stoppage point is exactly beside needle point of machine.
Finding points:
FRONT, SLEEVE & LINING SECTION

S. NO. OPERATION OBSERVATIONS Proposed Solution REMARKS
Instruct the operators to make

1 Side Panel Attach Bundle System Being Followed Make use of the Conveyor System
use of the conveyor system
Instruct the operators to make

2 Fuse Dart Side Panel Bundle System Being Followed Make use of the Conveyor System
use of the conveyor system
Hoarding hangers. Operator in front has to walk back Make use of the Conveyor System as and Instruct the operators to make
3 Armhole Taping
and move the hangers when the piece gets complete use of the conveyor system
Add the curved metal sheet for easy flow Resources required to get the
4 Front pocket facing attach The machine bed obstructs the flow of the pieces
of the pieces metal sheet
Proper scheduled infrastructure

5 Front Pocket Bag Attach Water Leak Fix the roof
maintenance required
The machine is 8.5 inch outside the working area and

6 Flap Press Move the machine to clear obstruction N.A
hence obstructs the way of the hanger
The stop station needs to be at correct Change the position of the stop
7 Pocket Welt Press Hanger Alignment Issue
position station
8 Breast Pocket Notch & Turn Hanger Alignment Issue
position station
9 Attach & Close Pocket Bag Hanger Alignment Issue
position station
The stop station needs to be at correct

Change the position of the stop
Hanger Alignment Issue, fusing tape palced too far. position, move the two halves of the body
10 Body Press station, another fusing tape
Another fusing tape required. press,add another roll of fusing tape and
required
align the correct position of the tape roll
11 Centre Back Stop station not required. No switch
position station
12 Side Seam Press Hanger Alignment Issue
position station
Also the chain hangers, a few

operations can be carried out
Hangers not used at all. Less no: of hangers as Encourage the use of conveyor system,
13 Sleeve Section wothout unclipping the
compared to no: of pieces produced. add number of hangers
workpeice, hence the workers
should be made aware of it
14 Lining Manual Pushing Install the automated system NA
15 Welt Machine 17 inch outside the work area Change machine position NA
91
ASSEMBLY AND FINISHING SECTION

S. NO. OPERATION ISSUES Proposed Solution REMARKS
Stopping point of the hanger is not aligned properly The stop station needs to be at the Change the position of the stop
1 Collar zig zag
with the operator correct position station
All of the finished garments were lying on the bed Instruct the operators to make
2 Front edge stitch Make use of the Conveyor System
where hand alterations were taking place. use of the conveyor system
Due to the machine bed of the previous operation, the

movement of the hanger was restricted due to which Add the curved metal sheet for easy flow
3 Trimming Curved metal sheet required
the operator has to manually pull the hanger towards of the pieces
himself.
Stopping point of the hanger is not aligned properly Add the curved metal sheet for easy flow
4 Bottom lining facing Curved metal sheet required
with the operator. of the pieces
The placement of checking hangers was unstable and The stop station needs to be at the Change the position of the stop
5 Inline checking:
obstructing the material movement via the conveyor correct position station
Excessive operator movement to pick up or drop Alignment change will reduce

6 Button attach Change the alignment of the machine
pieces. operator movement
Fix a operation station for the particular A particular area needs to be

7 Bottom hand hem No proper alignment for this operation is in place.
process allocated
Cut away the excess bed size or use a

8 Shoulder pad attach Machine bed size is bigger than required. A hinged mechanism is required
hinged mechanism
Stopping point of the hanger is not aligned properly The stop station needs to be at the Change the position of the stop
9 Pick sew
with the operator. correct position station
Figure 36: Finding points of conveyor
Overall observations:
 Some of the operators are using two hands to clip and unclip the pieces
 Work space is less for few of the operations
 The hanger stopping stations are not correctly placed
 No: of hangers in some sections is not enough.
 Hangers are hoarded
 Machine bed sizes are too large at certain workstations which tend to obstruct the
material movement
 The size of the machine bed obstructs the piece movement on the conveyer.
 Uneven stopping points which are not in line with the operator.
92
It was observed that the conveyer hanger stoppage points were not proper. Some hanger stop
points were ahead then that of needle points and some were behind the stoppage points. Were
workers had to bend or take their hands behind and front to pick the garment from hanger.
Figure 37: Old hanger stop points
Changes done: Conveyer stop points are aligned according to operator seating position and
machine needle point. Operator can easily pick and drop the garment on hangers. This results in
reducing loading & unloading time.
Figure 38: New hanger stop points
93
3.6.2. Sleeve Hanger
In sleeves Section it was observed that loading and unloading time for garments on hanger is
more. So the changes in hanger and layout was carried out .
Changes done: Hanger are given additional chains to hold the garment in such a way that , parts
can be stitched without unclipping the hangers. This reduces loading and unloading time of
operator.
Figure 39: Hanger layout in sleeve section
Figure 40: Chains attached to hangers

94
3.6.3. Assembly Hanger
In assembly section it was observed that loading and unloading time for garments on hanger is
more. So the changes in hanger and layout was carried out .
Changes done: Hanger are given additional clips to hold the garment in such a way that ,
garments can be hung only from one side. This reduces loading and unloading time of operator.
Figure 41: Before
Figure 42: After

95
3.6.4. SSAL II Observations
During my visit to SSAL unit-2, I observed quite a few things which could have been
implemented in our unit as well. So I made a report and discussed it with the plant manager as to
what all changes could be made in order to improve our production line. The observation report
is as follows :
KEY OBSERVATIONS
 Total number of operator is more i.e. 123 as compared to 106.

 More production can be achieved.
 Less takt time.
 Sleeve section machines are kept sideways to one another.
 Makes the bundle movement easier.
 Right pick up from the previous workstation to left drop to the next workstation.
Figure 43: Layout of sleeve section
 In the assembly section, front edge basting is done before front edge sew
 This reduces cycle time of front edge sew drastically
 Few of the machines were set high on a platform

 The needle point is close to the hangers and the operation can be done without unclipping
the piece.
 These operations are generally the critical operations of the section. Useful for keeping
attention.
 Close to the tube light so that there is absolute vision.
96
Figure 44: Machines on platform
 The skill matrix chart is displayed on a huge board at every section of the line.
 Line balancing becomes easier.
 Updated every month.
Figure 45: Skill matrix board
 The standard WIP level is 356 which is maintained.

 If more than 500 WIP in the line, further loading is not accepted.
 Chances of Missing pcs are reduced.
97
 Less confusion in the line.

 Focused working.
 Average absenteeism rate is less than 4 %
 Every worker and every employee is given one day weekly off.
 All days working industry.
 More production.
 Average production is 440 garments/day
 They have developed a sample tracking system which tracks where the samples are
carried out in the line.
 A yellow card on which the style no. , date and time at which the sample was given to the
first operation is placed at different positions on the board according to the movement of
the sample.
Figure 46: Sample tracking system
 Full layout of the industry is in a straight line.

 There are 5 checkpoints for quality clearance in the line.
 Rework is reduced to a minimum.
 There is a separate section for alteration pcs to be kept on the hangers which is
marked with red color in each section of the line.
98
Figure 47: Alteration pieces
 Some of the machines are well constructed according to the type of operations.
Figure 48: Machines according to operations
 For sleeve attaching which is one of the most critical operations in the jacket line,
there are 3 operators allotted for the same.
 Operators are used to the style as continuous orders are placed from the same buyer
i.e. JC Penny.
 More efficient.
 More productivity.
 Ticketing is done in colored paper i.e. for 1-100 lot numbers, pink color used, 100-
200 blue color used and so on.
 Tracking of missing pcs becomes easy.
 Less confusion.
99
 In the sleeve section, small wooden planks is attached to every machine beds which
is used either to hang cut panels or sewed panels.
Figure 49: Wooden planks on machines

 They have specific modifications on the machine bed for trimmed waste disposal.
Figure 50: Waste disposal
 The fusing tape is cut into pieces.

 Saves time in grabbing the roll and cutting it into the required size.
 Operators when idle, refill the boxes with the cut fusing tapes.
Figure 51: Trimmed fusing

100
 Every machine has a label and a serial no. which is displayed along with their
scheduled preventive maintenance dates at a display board kept in the line.
Figure 52: Preventive maintenance board
 They have 8 floaters who are not specifically allocated.

 The inspection tables have proper instructions and details.
Figure 53: Inspection table
101
 Proper labelled storage shelves are placed wherever necessary.
Figure 54: Storage shelves

 In the machines where ribbons are used, a bent metal rod is attached to the machine
bed, to keep the ribbon rolls.
Figure 55: Allotted place for tapes
102
 In button attach and wrapping operation in finishing, a shelf is kept next to the
operator for the buttons.
Figure 56: Shelf for button

 Every machine has a separate water bottle section attached to it.
 No movement for drinking water purpose.
 Off time is reduced.
Figure 57: Water bottle stand
103
3.6.5. Sleeve Layout

JACKET LINE-3 ACTUAL LAYOUT PROPOSED LAYOUT
SLEEVE SECTION SLEEVE SECTION
OPERATION 73ft 5ft 5'' 74.6ft 5ft 5''
LENGTH BREADTH
SLEEVE SECTION
73ft 5ft 5''
Loading
trolley
SHAMHOLE M/C
2ft 1'' 3ft 9''
Shamhole m/c
2ft 1'' x 3ft 9''
Shamhole m/c
2ft 1'' x 3ft 9''
ELBOW SEAM ATTACH
3ft 4ft 10''
VENT MAKING
1ft 10'' 3ft 7'' Elbow seam attach
Elbow seam attach

3ft x 4ft 10''
Machine Bed Dimensions
3ft x 4ft 10''

VENT PRESSING
3ft 4'' 4ft 10''
VENT TACKING
2ft 12'' 4ft 4'' Vent making
1ft 10'' x 3ft 7''
1ft 10'' x 3ft 7''

ELBOW SEAM PRESS
Vent making
4ft 7'' 4ft 3''
HEAD ROLL GATHERING

3ft 3'' 5ft 2'' Vent Pressing
3ft 4'' x 4ft 10''
BUTTON ATTACH 1
3ft 4'' x 4ft 10''

Vent Pressing
2ft 2'' 3ft 7''
BUTTON ATTACH 2
2ft 1'' 3ft 8''
Vent Tacking
2ft 12'' x 4ft 4''
ELBOW SEAM LINING
3ft 3'' 4ft 1''
2ft 12'' x 4ft 4''

Vent Tacking
HEAD ROLL READY
1ft 11'' 3ft 7''
LINING ATTACH TO SHELL

Elbow Seam Press
3ft 1'' 4ft 3''
4ft 7'' x 4ft 3''
INSEAM STITCH
Elbow Seam Press

4ft 7'' x 4ft 3''
2ft 9'' 4ft 4''
INSEAM PRESS
3ft 6'' 4ft 1''
Head roll gathering
BOTTOM LINING CLOSE 3ft 3'' x 5ft 2''
trolley
Head
roll
2ft 9'' 4ft 4''
Head roll gathering

AISLE SIDE
INSEAM & ELBOW TACKING
3ft 3'' x 5ft 2''

AISLE SIDE
Button attach 2
2ft 10'' 4ft 4''

2ft 1'' x 3ft 9''
SLEEVE PRESS
Button attach 1
2ft 3'' 4ft 6''
2ft 2'' x 3ft 7''
Button attach 2
Button attach 1
2ft 1'' x 3ft 9''
2ft 2'' x 3ft 7''

KEY INDEX
Elbow seam lining
SEATED OPERATORS 3ft 3'' x 4ft 1''
STANDING OPERATORS
Elbow seam lining
3ft 3'' x 4ft 1''
CURTAIN
Head roll ready
1ft 11'' x 3ft 7''
CONVEYOR BELT
Head roll ready
1ft 11'' x 3ft 7''
MACHINE BED
Lining attach to shell

3ft 1'' x 4ft 3''
Lining attach to
3ft 1'' x 4ft 3''

shell
Inseam stitch
2ft 9'' x 4ft 4''
2ft 9'' x 4ft 4''
Inseam stitch
3ft 6'' x 4ft 1''
Inseam Press
Inseam Press
3ft 6'' x 4ft 1''
Bottom lining close
2ft 9'' x 4ft 4''
Bottom lining close

2ft 9'' x 4ft 4''
Inseam & elbow
2ft 10'' x 4ft 4''

tacking
Inseam & elbow

tacking
2ft 10'' x 4ft 4''
2ft 3'' x 4ft 6''
Sleeve Press
Sleeve Press
2ft 3'' x 4ft 6''
BALANCE AREA
1.6ft
Figure 58: Sleeve layout original and proposed

104
Layout Changes:
In sleeves section the changes in layout is done in such a manner that the hanger passes between
the machine and operator this reduced the Momentum. Momentum should be employed to help
the worker, but should be reduced to a minimum whenever it has to be overcome by muscular
effort . Continuous curved movements are to be preferred to straight-line motion involving
sudden and sharp changes in direction.
Figure 59: Sleeve layout original
Figure 60: Sleeve layout proposed
105
3.6.6. Small Parts
Sl. Operation Issues Probable solution

No.
1 Supermarket Pieces not placed according to Cutting department must place
labeling parts according to lableing
2 Marking table Patterns not placed properly Proper place for patterns must
be alloted
3 Front panel pocket Proper place for pocket bag Proper place for pocket bag
bone & breast pocket parts are needed parts are needed
lip
4 Quality issue (checks not
matching )
5 Auto zig No proper placement for parts Wooden box fixed for
placement
6 Canvas fusing Canvas fusing size labelling Size sticker lable like 36 , 38,
required 40, 42 , 44 & 46
7 Welt pocketing No proper placement for parts Wooden box fixed for
placement
8 Collar ready ( felt Pieces hang and touch ground Fabric bag fixed @ machine
attach, chain stitch) while stitching bed
9 Small pocket bag attach No proper placement for parts Table extend for pocket bag
place
10 Button attachment Proper box required for button Wooden box fixed for
storage placement
11 Elbow seam lining No proper placement for parts Side stand for output pcs
close
12 Breast pocket bone Bundling is not done in
sequence (checks not
matching)
13 Pocket bag attach Quality issue: sequence is not
checked and matched
106
Small parts work aids:
1) Pocket bone attach:
Figure 61: Design and Implemented

2) Triangular Flap attach:
Figure 62: Work station (before)
107
Figure 63: Design
Figure 63: Implemented

3) Movable tray:
Figure 64:Design for movable tray for storage and implemented
108
Figure 65 :Work station before and after

4. Raised platform for armhole tape attach and shoulder seam attach:
Figure 66 :Work station before and after
109
5) Preventive Maintenance Board sample design:
Figure 67 :Preventive maintenance board
6) Sample Status Board sample design:
Figure 68 :Preventive maintenance board
110
7) Water bottle holder:
Figure 69 :Design and implemented
8) Small parts box for sorting :
111
Figure 70 :Different workaids for small parts sorting
112
Figure 71 :Small parts loading trolley tray
3.6.7 Sample Formats
a) WIP report:
Daily WIP analysis report has been made to keep a record of WIP section wise like front,
linning, sleeve, collar , assembly for bottle neck operations , keeping a track of missing pieces ,
break down time and alteration pieces.
113
JACKET LINE 3
DAILY SUMMARY REPORT
SECTION LOADING LAST NO PAIRING WIP SECTION OUTPUT PCS MISSING PCS
FRONT
Dart marking LINING
Welting SLEEVE
FRONT
Side seam COLLAR
Output ASS 1
ASS2
Facing FINISH
Welting
LINING
Sideseam SECTION BREAKDOWN TIME ALTERATION PCS
Output FRONT
LINING
Shamhole SLEEVE
SLEEVE
Output COLLAR
ASS 1
ASS2
Start no. FINISH
COLLAR
Output
ASS Pairing
WIP Assembly wip

Line wip
Figure 72 :WIP report format
b) Line balancing:
Line balancing report is a format to be filled by supervisor for line balancing. Format is
constructed in the layout form according to machines set in the line. Supervisor can easily
balances the line using format.
114
JACKET LINE 3 DATE -
FRONT
CUTTING SUPERMARKET AREA WIP
START -
END -
QUANTITY -
SEWING SUPERMARKET AREA WIP
FRONT LOADING WIP LINING LOADING WIP SLEEVE LOADING WIP
START - START- START -
END - END - END -
QUANTITY - QUANTITY - QUANTITY -
Loading Front Inspection

Lapel, Canvas & Bottom Marking
Breast Pocket & Front Dart Marking Dart pressing
Canvas Zig Zag
Canvas Basting
Tape attach
Checks matching
Pinning Side panel attach
Carbon marking Fuse dart Bottom Close
Armhole tape atach Bottom Vent Press
FRONT SECTION WIP Breast pocket pressing shoulder seam press
Breast pocket bone attach Vent making
Pocket welting Shoulder seam attach
FRONT SECTION Flap pressing Panel press
PRESENT - Auto zig stay stitch side seam attach
ABSENT - Flap attaching shoulder pad attach(basting)
Flap pressing Extra canvas trimming
Breast zig zag sticth at corners Centre back
Flap packing breast pocket closing Body press
Front pocket bag attach Blind hemming and taping
Front pocket bag close Canvas fuse
LINING
Triangular Flap & Loop Attach
Pocket Bag Label Attach
Centre Back Attach
Side Panel Attach
Wing Facing Attach
Wing Facing Attach
Facing Press SLEEVE
Facing Saddle Stitch Shamhole marking
Pocket welting Sham Hole
Pocket Welting Press Elbow seam
Pocket Facing Attach Vent making
Main Label Attach Vent press
Label Pocket Bag Attach & Close Vent lock
Flap Pocket Attach & Close Elbow seam press
Small Pocket Bag Attach &Close Head Roll preparation
Breast Pocket Attach Button attach
COLLAR D-Bartack Elbow lining
Turn & Press Collar Side Seam Attach Bottom close
Collar Corner Lock Collar attach Inseam stitch
Collar Felt Attach Shoulder attach and neckband stitch Inseaam press
Fuse collar Collar press Inseam Tacking
Collar band attach Facing blind hem Sleeve tacking
Collar marking Inline inspection Sleeve press
COLLAR SECTION WIP LINING SECTION WIP SLEEVE SECTION WIP
COLLAR SECTION LINING SECTION SLEEVE SECTION

PRESENT - PRESENT - PRESENT -
ABSENT - ABSENT - ABSENT -
FINISHING ASSEMBLY 2 ASSEMBLY 1

Final Packaging Bottom hemming Collar hemming
Tagging, Labels, Extra button attaching Hanger Loop Attach Lapel Press
Final Auditing Button Hole & Flower Marking Piping Press
Touch Up Button Hole & Flower Marking Piping Press
End Quality Check Bartack at Button Hole Piping Press
Lapel Press Sleeve Attach Piping Press
Button Attaching, Wrapping & Knotting Sleeve Attach Bottom Close
Button Attaching Sleeve Attach Bottom Close
Button Hole Marking Sleeve Head Seam Open &Press Bottom Close
Lining Press Shoulder Pad Attach Front Tacking
Lining Press Body basting Front edge seam open
Lining Press Sleeve lining close Front edge trim
Armhole Press Sleeve lining close Front edge stitch
Elbow Press Vent top stitch Front edge stitch
Collar Press Sleeve inseam lining close Collar zig zag
Lapel Press Armhole top stitch Collar press
Body Press Armhole Top Peak formation
Shoulder Press Sweat shield hemming Peak formation
Inseam Press Vent tacking Matching
Wash marking End line inspection Pairing
FINISHING WIP
115
ASSEMBLY WIP PAIRING WIP
FRONT=
SLEEVE=
LINING=
FINISHING SECTION ASSEMBLY SECTION

PRESENT - PRESENT -
c) Daily Analysis Report : This format was made to monitor the performance of each section
daily.
Figure 73 :Daily analysis report
116
3.7 RESULTS
3.7.1 Pitch analysis
Front
Figure 74 :Pitch analysis of front section
117
0
1200
1400
1600
1800
200
400
600
800
1000
0
1000
1500
2000
2500
500
Side panel attach
Fuse dart plus side panel
Breast pocket attach
Breast Pocket Zigzag
Pocket bag attach
Pocket bag close
Dart Pressing
Pocket welting
pocket trimming
pocket pressing
Breast pocket notch and…
fusing canvas
Canvas blind hem
118
Body press
Center Back
OPS
OPS
Excess canvas cutting
Shoulder pad basting
Side seam attach
Side seam press
Bottom press
Shoulder seam
Vent making
Shoulder press
Vent press
Figure 75 :Graph showing previous OPS of front operations
Fullness stitch @ neck
Figure 76 :Graph showing improvised OPS of front operations

Autozig
Flap press
After the changes in the layout and workaids, we can observe a reduction in the number of
OPS
OPS
critical operations, reduced manpower required in the front section from 28 to 22 and an increase
in the OPS for each operation.The total time taken for the front section reduced from 1971
seconds to 1627 seconds.
Lining
Figure 77 :Pitch analysis of Lining section
OPS
1000
900
800
700
600
500
400
300
200
100
0 OPS
BRIDAL TAPE…
Wing Facing…
FLAP POCKET BAG…
Small Pocket Bag…

NECK & COLLAR…
Side Panel Attach…
Pocket Welting…
Shoulder Attach &…

SWEAT PAD…
Centre Back…
Facing Press
BARTACK
COLLAR ATTACH
Pocket Welting
PRESS
Main Label Attach
Size label attach

SIDESEAM
Facing Saddle Stitch
Figure 78 :Graph showing previous OPS of lining operations
119
OPS
1000
900
800
700
600
500
400
300
200
100
0 OPS
BRIDAL TAPE…
Wing Facing…
Pocket Welting…
FLAP POCKET BAG…
Small Pocket Bag…

NECK & COLLAR…
Side Panel Attach…

SWEAT PAD…
Centre Back…
Shoulder Attach &…

Pocket Welting
Facing Press
BARTACK
COLLAR ATTACH
PRESS
Main Label Attach
Size label attach

SIDESEAM
Facing Saddle Stitch

Figure 79 :Graph showing improvised OPS of lining operations
After the work aid implementation of work aids, we can observe a reduction in the number of
critical operations to 3 operations, an increase in the OPS of each operation.
Sleeve
Figure 80 :Pitch analysis o fsleeve section
120
OPS
1000
900
800
700
600
500
400
300
200
100 OPS
0
Figure 81 :Graph showing previous OPS of sleeve operations
OPS
1000
900
800
700
600
500
400
300
200
100
0 OPS
Figure 82 :Graph showing improvised OPS of sleeve operations
After the change in layout and implementation of workaids, the critical operations have disappeared,
the manpower required fell from 11 people to 10 people .There was an increase in the OPS for each
operation and the total time of the section reduced from 763 seconds to 715 seconds.
121
Collar
Figure 83 :Pitch analysis of collar section
COMBINED OPS
900
800
700
600
500
400
300
200
100 COMBINED OPS
0
Figure 84 :Graph showing previous OPS of collar operations
122
COMBINED OPS
900
800
700
600
500
400
300
200
100 COMBINED OPS
0
Figure 85 :Graph showing improvised OPS of collar operations
After the changes made, the critical operations have disappeared. There was an increase in the OPS for
the operations and the average total time of the section was reduced by 3 seconds.
Assembly 1
Figure 86 :Pitch analysis of assembly 1 section
123
OPS
800
700
600
500
400
300
200
100
OPS
0
Figure 87 :Graph showing previous OPS of assembly 1 operations
OPS
1200
1000
800
600
400
200
OPS
0
Figure 88 :Graph showing improvised OPS of assembly 1 operations
After the changes made in the hanger alignment, the number of critical operations have drastically
reduced, the number of manpower required fell from 17 to 13.There was an increase in the OPS of the
operations. The average total time of the section also changed dramatically from 1808 seconds to 1227
seconds.
124
Assembly 2
Figure 89 :Pitch analysis of assembly 2 section
OPS
600
500
400
300
200
100
OPS
0
Figure 90 :Graph showing previous OPS of assembly 2 operations
125
OPS
600
500
400
300
200
100
OPS
0
Figure 91 :Graph showing improvised OPS of assembly 2 operations
After the changes made in the hanger alignment, the number of critical operations have reduced. There
was an increase in the OPS of the operations. The average total time of the section also changed
dramatically from 1196 seconds to 1179 seconds.
BELOW IS THE WEEKLY SUMMARY OF THE PRODUCTION FOR EACH SECTION OF

THE LINE :
We can observe, that the overall production of the line i.e Send to Wh reached to 286 from 214. A
total production improvement of 72 more garments was observed.
126
127
128
129
130
131
3.8 CONCLUSION
World Class Manufacturing opens minds and doors to new possibilities .To make a sewing line
world class is to add value to the business and customers by driving for a zero loss organization.
This can be achieved through continuous development of people, processes, organization.
Our project concerns with developing the processes. This is done by standardizing and aligning
the methods and tools, transfer WCM knowledge sharing best practices.
The process of implementing WCM involves two major steps: maintain and eradicate. This
forms an infinity loop consisting of:
 Assessing the current situation

 Restore the basic conditions
 Analyze root causes
 Eliminate root causes
 Implement new standards
 Improve standards reliability
 Maintain the standards
Through our project I think we have achieved the basic results of a world class manufacturing
line i.e. increase efficiency and production, reduction of waste, reduction of complaints, increase
in safety and most importantly motivation.
132
3.9 BIBILIOGRAPHY
133

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INTERNSHIP AT SILVER SPARK APPAREL LTD.

1.1 Raymond Limited

1.1.1 Group Companies

 EverBlue Apparel Ltd. - A state-of-the-art denim garmenting facility.

 Ring Plus Aqua Ltd. - A leading manufacturer in the engineering automotive

1.1.2 Joint Venture

1.2 About SSAL

 Konaka (Japanese Buyer)

1.2.1 Strength of SSAL (In Numbers)

4. Planning & Pre-Production Department

5. Store (Trims & Fabrics)

6. CAD/CAM & Cutting Department

10. Industrial Engineering Department

11. Maintenance Department

12. Accounts and Finance Department

13. Human Resource Department

14. Information Technology Department

15. Exim Department

16. MTM (Made To Measure)

2.2 Organizational structure

Figure 2 : Organizational structure of SSAL 1

2.3 Role of Different Departments

Figure 3: Roles of different departments at SSAL 1

2.4 Various departments of the company

2.4.1. Marketing / Merchandising Department

Figure 4: Hierarchy in Marketing/Merchandising Department

The functions of the department are:

2.4.1.1 Merchandising Department

Figure 5 : Process flow of merchandising department

2.4.2 Fabric Store

Figure 6: Process flow of fabric store

DELIVERY CHALLAN (DC) ENTRY:

 Sort in rack according to colour/buyer.

PIECE CARD UPDATION:

Picture1: Fabric store

Once the fabric is inhouse, it is checked for quality.

Fabric content includes the following:

Quality checking of the issued fabrics:

Defect range Point evaluation

Types of Defects identified:

Defects Defect range Points

(Total points * 100*100) / (Inspected meters * Fabric width (cm))

= Points per 100 square meter.

Picture 2:Fabric Inspection Machine

Picture 3:Sponging Machine

 Inspection is done on the basis of 10 parameters. 100% of fabric is inspected. These

Picture4: Width report

2. Shade report – Shade variation is checked from light to dark.

Picture5: Shade report

Picture 6: Shade band

Picture 7: CSV report

The panels are cut

The panels gets stitched

Picture 8: Shrinkage report

6. Fabric Inspection Summary – Overall summary of all the inspections.

7. Fabric direction – Direction of fabric is checked according to the different type

8. Fabric Side Approval – Face and back of the fabric is decided.

Picture 9: Colourfastness test

Picture 10: Seam slippage test

Problems faced by the Stores:

2.4.3. Trims Store

Figure 7 : Process flow of trims store

(Total points * 100100) / (Inspected meters Fabric width (cm))