Issue 331 • May 2018 SEND IN YOUR TOP WORKSHOP TIP & YOU

COULD WIN A FANTASTIC VERITAS LOW-ANGLE

JACK PLANE – WORTH OVER £250!

www.getwoodworking.com
dwo

The No.1 magazine for aspiring designer makers

PRECISION
TOOL-MAKING
DOWN UNDER
20 YEARS ON & STILL GOING STRONG
CHRIS VESPER ON STRIVING TO MAKE
THE BEST HAND TOOLS IN THE WORLD

CREATING SMALL 5 STAR KIT

DECORATIVE BOXES
S THE FULL PACKAGE:
MAKITA DRT50ZJX3
JOHN BULLAR’S GUIDE CORDLESS LXT
TO FURNITURE MAKING ROUTER
ON A MINIATURE SCALE

PLUS...
● BIRD TABLE WITH PLANTERS
ONLY £4.75

WOODWORKING GROUP

● DAVE ROBERTS’ NEW ‘BORDERLANDS’ SERIES

● TOP TIPS FROM A RIVERBOAT WHEELHOUSE BUILD
 16,500 PRODUCTS IN STOCK FOR NEXT DAY DELIVERY

GO ONLI
TO GET Y NE
OUR
FREE
Rated as EXCELLENT 9.4/10

FREE
DELIVERY
OVER £45*
FREE RETURNS
WITHIN
30 DAYS
MINIMUM
5 YEAR
GUARANTEE
LOW
TRADE
PRICES
CATALOGUE
CALL 7am-8pm 7 days a week ONLINE Shop 24/7!

0808 168 28 28 IronmongeryDirect.com *Ex VAT


Welcome
‘Some of my favourite
things from this issue’
Despite the Easter weekend being a wet and
windy affair, which I hear was the case for most
of the country, four days’ holiday is a definite
bonus, especially if, like me, you made it extra long
by taking the previous Wednesday and Thursday
off too. I hasten to add that when I booked the
hotel I didn’t actually realise when Easter fell,
so this just happened to be a happy coincidence.
Of course, the downside of having six days off
does mean you have lots of work to catch up
on as a result…
A damp Easter break
I was going to include here photos of mine and
my partner’s trip to the glorious New Forest –
Lyndhurst to be exact – but the rain didn’t stop the
whole time we were there, which sadly put an end
to our plans of long walks admiring the plethora of
trees and ponies. I also failed to realise that due to
the time we visited and the trees still not regaining
their leaves, the usual view of the forest from our
beautiful balcony wasn’t as epic as it would have
been later in the year. Never mind; the important
thing was that we still got to relax. The stunning
Limewood Hotel is set right in the middle of
the New Forest National Park, so it’s definitely
secluded and very much a hidden gem. Originally
a mediaeval hunting lodge back in the 13th
century, this sprawling manor house was
reclaimed for royalty by the Duke of Clarence
in the 1740s. Since then it’s obviously had a bit
of a makeover and according to the staff, it took
a team of architects, builders and designers five
years to convert it to its current state.
We were sad to also miss our trip to Beaulieu –
home of the National Motor Museum – which is
a magnificent historical estate boasting over 800
years of heritage. I hear the gardens are stunning
during spring, but all the more reason to go back.
Welcome
20 years of tool-making
So that’s what I’ve been up to since the last issue,
but what about you? I’ve received some lovely
letters and emails this month, one of which is
featured on page 44. It’s always so inspiring
to hear of people who are either discovering
woodworking now, or coming back to it after
years and years, many of whom have reached
retirement age and are looking to take up a hobby.
We hope our magazine is helpful in offering you Tegan Foley
Group Editor
the guidance you require while providing you with
project ideas, technical articles to broaden your
knowledge base, and of course the odd feature to
make you go ‘wow’. One such inspiring person
I recently interviewed was Chris Vesper, who is
this month’s cover star and featured maker. As
I say in the article, his passion for what we does
is really second to none and he shows no signs of
stopping any time soon. Congratulations to Chris Phil Davy
for reaching his 20-year milestone and we can’t Technical &
wait to see what new tools he goes on to develop. Consultant Editor
Workshop hints & tips
And before I go, don’t forget to keep sending
in your top workshop hints and tips. While I’ve
already received a fair few, there’s still plenty
of chances for you to be selected, so please
share your knowledge with us and get emailing
in your text and photos. We hope you enjoy our
May issue and remember to always have fun Dave Roberts
Consultant Editor
with your woodworking, regardless of your skill
level; that’s the most important thing after all!
We endeavour to ensure all techniques
shown in Good Woodworking are safe,
but take no responsibility for readers’
actions. Take care when woodworking
and always use guards, goggles,
masks, hold-down devices and ear
protection, and above all, plenty of
common sense. Do remember to enjoy
Email tegan.foley@mytimemedia.com yourself, though
www.getwoodworking.com GW331 May 2018 3
Inside this issue

SEND IN YOUR TOP

WORKSHOP HINT OR TIP
& YOU COULD BE IN WITH
THE CHANCE OF WINNING
A VERITAS LOW-ANGLE
JACK PLANE – WORTH
OVER £250! SEE PAGE 45
FOR DETAILS

22
TIMBER-FRAMING
Dave Roberts opens the series
by trying to characterise the
distinctive quality of life
in the rural borderlands

4 GW331 May 2018 www.getwoodworking.com

 May – 331

TOOLS PROJECTS TECHNIQUES ADVICE

PROJECTS TECHNICAL PEOPLE & PLACES

30 Feed the birds 26 Boxes constructed with 38 Useless objects
Clint Rose presents an entirely unique design furniture maker’s jointing Edward Hopkins makes three of them
for a bird table, which includes a series techniques and finds that they aren’t
of planters to make it really stand out As John Bullar shows, box making projects
are well suited to a small workshop with a few 46 Centrefold
66 Segmented sensation good quality tools and an ideal way to Andrew Lawton’s latest exhibition piece,
Tristan Dare creates a unique cutting board demonstrate fine furniture making skills made using solid blackbean, is a
design consisting of 100 pieces contemporary British piece of furniture
of beautiful contrasting wood 48 Learning about panel products made from a very rare material
Peter Bishop looks at how manufacturing
73 On the latch processes and techniques have developed 58 Tool-making maestro
Taking only a few hours to install, follow Phil to utilise wood, as well as the classifications Regarded the world over for producing
Davy’s simple steps for installing a Suffolk of sheet materials and composite boards first-class precision hand tools, Chris Vesper
latch on a ledged and braced door and be of Vesper Tools has certainly worked hard
sure to avoid any of the common pitfalls to achieve success, which makes his story
all the more inspirational
75 Window made new
Phil Davy shows you how to quickly and 90 When harm lends charm
easily replace a rotten window board The distressing tale of patination

80 A platter full of apples KIT & TOOLS

Taking a piece of spalted beech he’s had
for a long time, Les Thorne decides to turn 14 Makita DRT50ZJX3
a platter, as well as a selection of apples 54 Top tips from a riverboat cordless LXT router
in various exotic timbers wheelhouse build
John McMahon admits to being a frustrated 20 Shogun Japanese saws
naval architect as he shares the tale of how
he went about building the wheelhouse 21 IRWIN QUICK-GRIP One-Handed
for a large, steel hulled riverboat Bar Clamps

78 The importance of YOUR FAVOURITES

responsible forestry
Shaun Stevenson of G&S Timber highlights 8 News
the importance of sustainability when 12 Courses
sourcing timber, the certifications to look 13 Readers’ ads
out for when buying, and how all timber 44 Letters & Makers
suppliers should ensure they are practising 72 Around the House
responsible forestry 89 Next month
Main cover image courtesy of effectiveworkingimage.com

http://twitter.com/getwoodworking BACK ISSUES & BINDERS ADVERTISING

Contact: 01795 662 976 Group Advertising Manager: Rhona Bolger
www.getwoodworking.com Website: www.mags-uk.com
Published by MyTimeMedia Ltd. Email: rhona.bolger@mytimemedia.com
Suite 25, Eden House Enterprise Way, Tel: 01689 869 891
EDITORIAL
Edenbridge, Kent TN8 6HF Group Editor: Tegan Foley SUBSCRIPTIONS
UK and Overseas Tel: +44 (0) 1689 869 840 Technical & Consultant Editor: Phil Davy Subscriptions Manager: Kate Hall
SUBSCRIPTIONS Consultant Editor: Dave Roberts
MANAGEMENT
UK – New, Renewals & Enquiries CONTRIBUTORS Group Advertising Manager: Rhona Bolger
Tel: 0344 243 9023 Phil Davy, Dave Roberts, Mark Cass, John Bullar, Clint Rose, Email: rhona.bolger@mytimemedia.com
Email: mytimemedia@subscription.co.uk Edward Hopkins, Andrew Lawton, Peter Bishop, John Chief Executive: Owen Davies
USA & Canada - New, Renewals & Enquiries McMahon, Tristan Dare, Shaun Stevenson, Les Thorne
Tel: (001) 866 647 9191
Rest of World – New, Renewals & Enquiries PRODUCTION
Tel: +44 (0) 1604 828 748 Designer: Nik Harber
Email: help@twwsecureorder.co.uk Retouching Manager: Brian Vickers

© MyTimeMedia Ltd. 2018 All rights reserved ISSN 0967-0009

The Publisher’s written consent must be obtained before any part of this publication may be reproduced in any form whatsoever, including photocopiers, and information retrieval systems. All reasonable care
is taken in the preparation of the magazine contents, but the publishers cannot be held legally responsible for errors in the contents of this magazine or for any loss however arising from such errors, including
loss resulting from negligence of our staff. Reliance placed upon the contents of this magazine is at reader’s own risk. Good Woodworking, ISSN 0967-0009, is published 13 times a year by MYTIMEMEDIA Ltd,
Enterprise Way, Edenbridge, Kent TN8 6HF, UK.
The US annual subscription price is 62GBP (equivalent to approximately 88USD). Airfreight and mailing in the USA by agent named Worldnet Shipping Inc., 156-15, 146th Avenue, 2nd Floor, Jamaica, NY
11434, USA. Periodicals postage paid at Jamaica NY 11431. US Postmaster: Send address changes to Good Woodworking, Worldnet Shipping Inc., 156-15, 146th Avenue, 2nd Floor, Jamaica, NY 11434, USA.
Subscription records are maintained at dsb.net 3 Queensbridge, The Lakes, Northampton, NN4 7BF

www.getwoodworking.com GW331 May 2018 5

 ‘THE’ TOOL SUPERSTORE
HAND, POWER TOOLS & MACHINERY SPECIALIST

DM-TOOLS.CO.UK
When you demand MASSIVE CHOICE
Quality Tools, FROM THE BIGGEST BRANDS!

Trusted Service
& Expert Advice...
D&M Tools has been family owned and managed since 1978.
During that time we have earned a reputation with our customers
as a trusted partner. Whether you are a trade professional or a DIY
enthusiast, our mission is a simple one - to supply top quality
tools at the best value for money, backed up by a service
you can trust.

LOW TRADE PRICES!

Whether you’re buying online, by phone, email, post or visiting us
in-store, D&M provides you with the widest range of quality hand,
power tools and woodworking machinery all at the keenest prices.

OVER 10,000 LINES IN STOCK!

We hold massive stocks, meaning that most items are available for
despatch the day you order it. Our website shows up to date stock
availability, so you can order with confidence.

SHOP ON-LINE 24HRS A DAY

Visit our easy-to-use website to see what we mean about range
and value. Browse and buy with confidence 24hrs a day from the
biggest brands in the business, all at prices you’ll find hard to beat,
you will also find all our latest offers and deals.

Why not subscribe to our regular emails to keep up with our

latest deals and offers or join our D&M Loyalty Scheme and
earn valuable loyalty points every time you
shop on-line. AND
MORE!
More details on
our website.
THE UK’s No.1 BRANDED HAND,
POWER TOOLS & MACHINERY EVENT

‘THE’TOOL
MAKE A DATE IN YOUR DIARY.... SHOW ‘18
T H E T O O L S H O W. C O M

VISIT OUR EXTENSIVE TWICKENHAM SUPERSTORE KEMPTON PARK RACECOURSE

73-81 HEATH ROAD • TWICKENHAM • TW1 4AW
020 8892 3813 • SALES@DM-TOOLS.CO.UK
12th-14th OCTOBER 2018
FREE DELIVERY
Delivery to UK mainland addresses
is FREE for most orders
over £99, and for orders
020 8892 3813
under £99 is only £5.95.
MON-SAT 8.30am-5.30pm
See the carriage rates (CLOSED BANK HOLIDAYS)
on our website for full details.

VISIT OU
EXTENSI R
TWICKE VE
SUPERSNHAM
TORE

OUR CUSTOMERS LOVE US!

We are regularly receiving 5 star reviews on the independent
review site Trustpilot, as well as testimonials direct from our
customers, here are just a few:
#####
“D & M Tools provided fantastic customer service and we will,
definitely consider ordering from them whenever we need any other items!
An absolutely fabulous company - Thank you in advance of our next
order!”

#####
“Best service and price. Thank you. Your web site was easy to
navigate with the best prices for high quality tools, ordering was simple
and delivery was unbelievable quick, order received next day. Certainly
will be ordering again.”

#####
“Most efficient company purchase was effortless and was kept
informed at every stage till delivery - Great idea money off next
purchase points system !”

#####
“Always a brilliant service. Prompt response, service is the best and
follow up with delivery updates, faultless. Would recommend to
everyone. D & M are going to be my sole supplier in future.”

#####
“Excellent service makes a refreshing change - first time I have
used this company, was quite amazed by the quality and speed of service
and delivery, a fine example of what can be done with first class staff.”

www.trustpilot.co.uk/review/www.dm-tools.co.uk

@DM_Tools DandMTools DMTools1 +dmtools

News from the bench

WOOD AWARDS 2018 –

CALL FOR ENTRIES
NOW OPEN
The Wood Awards: Excellence in British
Architecture and Product Design has now
launched its 2018 call for entries. Anyone
involved in a UK-based wood project is
invited to enter and has until 25 May to
submit their applications.
Established in 1971, the Wood Awards
recognises, encourages and promotes
outstanding design, craftsmanship and
installation using wood in projects throughout
the UK. The Wood Awards’ elite independent
judging panel not only judges all submitted
entries but also visits the shortlisted projects
in person, making this a uniquely rigorous
competition.
The Wood Awards shortlist will be
announced in July and the winners will
be unveiled at the Wood Awards ceremony
on 20 November 2018 at Carpenters’ Hall
in London. The shortlisted projects will
be on display at the ceremony and during
the London Design Festival in September.
Stephen Corbett of Green Oak Carpentry
and design critic Corinne Julius are the new
Buildings and Furniture & Product judging
panel chairpersons. Stephen comments:
“Every year the call for entries for the Wood
Awards casts its net ever wider and deeper,
as the new wave of enthusiasm for working
with wood gathers pace. Years ago, timber
buildings and furniture were the pre-eminent
choice – now it’s clear that their time has
come around again, presenting enormous
opportunities for our foremost architects
and designers.”
Corinne adds: “Wood is such a beautiful,
versatile material. It reveals the history
of its use, with a richness of patina. There
are so many ways to work with it both for
commercial production and to make one-offs.
Winner of the 2017
Arnold Laver Gold
Award & Interiors
Award – Coastal
House, Devon,
by 6a Architects
In the last few years there has been
a re-appraisal of its qualities with an
increasing number of designers responding
to its potential, matched by an increased
appreciation by consumers.”
With permission from the owner, anyone
associated with a building or product
completed in the last two years can enter.
Buildings must be located within the UK
while furniture and other products must have
either been designed or manufactured in the
UK. Fitted furniture must be in the UK. The
competition is free to enter and entrants may
submit more than one project. There are no
restrictions on the size or budget of a project.
The 2018 categories will be confirmed at
the shortlisting. Building categories are likely
to be ‘Commercial & Leisure’, ‘Education &
Winner of the 2017 Furniture & Product
competition ‘Bespoke’ category – Eleanor
Lakelin’s turned vessels
Public Sector’, ‘Interiors’, ‘Private’ and ‘Small
Project’. The Furniture & Product competition
will be split into ‘Bespoke’, ‘Production Made’
and ‘Student Designer’, which is open to
anyone currently in education or who has
left education in the past 12 months. Within
the ‘Student’ category there are two cash
prizes (£1,000 for the Winner and £500 for
the People’s Choice). Other awards, such
as ‘Structural’ and ‘Existing Building’, can
be given at the judges’ discretion.
The organisers are delighted to announce
that Mears Group will be sponsoring this
year’s Gold Award. The Mears Group Gold
Award is given to the winner of winners,
chosen from the winners of all the categories.
To find out more, see the website:
www.woodawards.com.
Winner of the 2017 Production Made category
– Case Furniture’s Narin chair

TREND SNAPPY 35MM MACHINE BIT WITH DEPTH STOP

The new Trend Snappy 35mm Machine
Bit makes the fitting of Euro style
kitchen hinges quick to achieve along
with guaranteed uniform depths, thanks
to the fully adjustable aluminium depth
stop. Depths of 9mm through to 13mm
can be quickly set through a viewing
window against the depth markings
on the drill for fast, repeatable setting
across the range, thus eliminating
any danger of drilling through the
face of the workpiece.
The cutter features Tungsten Carbide
tips for increased durability and is
designed for use in abrasive materials
such as chipboard and MDF. A centre
point for accurate non-slip alignment
in conjunction with outer scribers
ensures a clean, smooth entry into
finished surfaces. Complete with a quick
change 6.3mm hex shank, the cutter is
fully compatible with all Trend Snappy
bit holders and standard hex chucks.
The SNAP/MB35DS is priced at £27.54
inc VAT and is available from all Trend
Routing Centres and stockists across
the UK. To find out more, see
www.trend-uk.com.

8 GW331 May 2018 www.getwoodworking.com

 Power,
Performance,
Perfection.

TREND T5
1000W ROUTER
Compact powerful, variable
speed router for light and
medium duty applications.

OFFER PRICE Watch our Video

List Price £267.94

£149
INC VAT

goo.gl/xgwLiW

INCLUDES

Precision Micro Adjustable 300mm Beam Trammel Clip-in 20mm

AD/17/10C

1/4” Collet Side Fence Fence Rods Attachment Dust Spout Guide Bush

Available from over 350 Trend Routing Centres

& Stockists in the UK & Ireland.

ZZZWUHQGXNFRP
News from the bench

UJK TECHNOLOGY LEVEL BOX PROKRAFT

The UJK Technology level box is an essential
gadget for setting circular saws, mitre saws,
bandsaws, pillar drills, milling machines and
many other situations which require an
accurate angle measurement. This digital
angle sensor with a resolution of 0.1° is very
simple to operate, requiring only two buttons:
an on/off and a zero function button.
When first switched on the level box
automatically displays the angle of the
surface on which it is sitting, relative to
absolute zero. Pressing the zero button
re-calibrates the level box to reference this
surface. Using this function, you can compare
the angle of one surface relative to another.
For example, you can check the angle of a
saw’s table to that of the blade.
Magnets, hidden in the base, hold the
level box firmly in position on any steel or
ferrous surface. The level box allows you
to set up tools efficiently and effectively.
Odd angles that would have required
several test cuts and even straightforward
45° mitres can now be set with complete
confidence. Use the level box to ensure
any angle or return stops on your machines
are accurate.
For more info and current pricing,
see www.axminster.co.uk.
LAUNCHES NEW
ATOM PEN KIT
Independent retailer Prokraft has
launched a new click pen kit called
the ‘Atom’, so named as it takes the
pen kit back into the hands of the
dedicated woodturner.
The Atom is a full length (105mm) single
tube click pen kit, which offers the turner
the opportunity to make one single piece
pen without the interruption of a centre
band. While the kit itself is very simple it
gives an opportunity for both material,
design and skill to be shown to full effect.
Gone are all the fancy embellishments
and colours that make some pen kits
more about the kit than the unique
material and craftsmanship added
by the maker.
Prokraft have launched this kit
to coincide with a new range of pen
kits featuring top quality Taiwanese
mechanisms built for reliability. The
new range features slimline, fancy and
sierra pro kits, all with premium quality
transmissions. Prices for the Atom
kit start at £2.70 plus shipping; see
www.prokraft.co.uk for more info.

NEW TOOLS FOR YOUR WORKSHOP WITH MACHINE

MART’S NEW SPRING/SUMMER CATALOGUE
Whether it’s keeping your tools sharp or
getting your storage well organised, Machine
Mart’s new catalogue has all the tools and
equipment you need this spring/summer.
Featuring over 500 new products and massive
price cuts, the 500-page catalogue is a
‘must have’ for woodworking enthusiasts
seeking a huge choice at unbeatable value.
New catalogue arrivals include the Clarke
CMS210S 1,400W sliding compound mitre saw
and a brand-new range of Clarke 18V brushless
combi drills. Machine Mart also offers a huge
range of sanders, routers, dust extractors
and saws starting from under £100, all of
which represent great value for money.
With over 21,000 items of tools and
machinery in stores across the country
and online, there’s bound to be something
to meet your woodworking needs.
To order your catalogue, simply see
www.machinemart.co.uk, visit your
local store, or call 0844 880 1265.

THE DURABLE WATER-BASED ALTERNATIVE TO OIL EGGSHELL PAINTS

Ideal for use on wood and metal surfaces both
inside and outside, the Futura Aqua portfolio
of waterborne urethane alkyd-based interior
and exterior finishes from TeknosPro provides
varying sheen levels with Futura Aqua 20
offering semi-matt, Futura Aqua 40 semi-gloss
and Futura Aqua 80 gloss. The paints can
be tinted to all Teknos colour shades and
also available is the versatile Futura Aqua
3 primer. Package sizes are 0.9 and 2.7, 9 litres.
Suited to professionals requiring a hand-
applied brush finish that flows easily with
few brush marks, it provides a very low sheen
top coat and incredibly durable surface.
The paints are environmentally friendly
with low VOC levels and can be used for a
wide range of applications, including interior
doors, window casements, cabinets, mouldings,
panels, staircase railings and radiators. It is
also suitable for use outdoors on primed
window casements and doors.
The modern pigments used disperse
evenly through the paint and provides
excellent resistance to weather and UV rays,
plus they retain their colour and gloss over
time. The paint may be thinned with water
and is easy to apply by brush, roller and spray,
which makes the application effortless.
The surface is dust-free after one hour
and thoroughly dry after two to three days.
To find out more about the product range,
see www.teknos.co.uk.

10 GW331 May 2018 www.getwoodworking.com

WORKS ‘BIG’ IN A SMALL
SPACE: NEW GEARKLAMP Quality Tools to
GK FROM BESSEY OFFERS
EXCITING POSSIBILITIES
match our Service
BESSEY is introducing a first-of-its-kind in the world with the
GearKlamp GK: a product that conveniently masters clamping
applications in a perfect way – even in the tightest of spaces.
This is made possible by a patent pending mechanism that
facilitates the separation of the spindle from the handle, The Ultimate
which in turn allows you to position it around the rail. Woodturning Lathe
Mouldings
With the GearKlamp GK, BESSEY once again demonstrates Made in Germany
its innovative leadership in the field of manual clamping tools.
The special design is based on the sound technical know-how Top quality
Hand Certified
of the BESSEY development team, with the aim of making daily Tools Hardwoods
work in craft and industry easier.
The GearKlamp GK is much more compact than the classic Toishi-Ohishi
Japanese
screw clamps, lever clamps or one-handed clamps as its handle
Waterstones
is positioned around the rail. Each turn of the handle transfers the
clamping force to the spindle via a mechanism concealed in the
sliding arm. This innovative design gives the user key advantages.
For example, when using the product, there are no protruding Drilling Tools made to the
tool components in cramped working areas for the craftsperson highest standard
to run into and thus damage the workpiece or injure themselves.
For another, ergonomic handling and enhanced comfort is G&S
guaranteed in every clamping situation as there is no need
to contort one’s hand.
Specialist
With its compact design, the GearKlamp GK achieves a clamping Timber TOOLS AND MACHINERY
force of up to 2,000N. BESSEY has equipped it with a quick-release
shift button for fast movement along the sliding arm. In addition, www.toolsandtimber.co.uk
you can order online now
it has a smooth-running trapezoidal threaded spindle with
swivelling pressure plate that adapts perfectly to the workpiece.
Even round, pointed and angular workpieces are held securely
with the help of the crossed V-grooves, which are located under
the protective cap on the upper section.
Meeting the BESSEY quality promise was also a focus in Bottle Stoppers made
from food safe
development. For this reason, only high-quality materials are used stainless steel, FREE
in the production. The stable profiled rail is made of tempered, Blank included
burnished steel. The upper section and the sliding arm’s plastic
housing protects the driving mechanism from dust and splintering
and are manufactured using fibreglass-reinforced polyamide. This
also makes the GearKlamp a winning choice in terms of durability.
Available in four clamping widths: 150mm (GK15), 300mm (GK30), pfeil
450mm (GK45) and 600mm (GK60), each with a throat depth of
60mm, see www.bessey.de for more info.

WE ARE EASY TO FIND:

11/2 miles from the M6, J40.
Take the A66 towards Keswick, Open 8am to 5pm daily.
turn left at first roundabout, 10am to 5pm Saturday.
follow the Brown Signs to Closed Sunday.
The Alpaca Centre.
G&S SPECIALIST TIMBER
The Alpaca Centre, Snuff Mill Lane, Stainton, Penrith, Cumbria CA11 0ES.
Tel: 01768 891445. Fax: 01768 891443. email: info@toolsandtimber.co.uk

www.getwoodworking.com GW331 May 2018 11

News from the bench
COURSES – MAY
1* Tool sharpening
9 & 24* Sharpening hand tools with Tormek
10–11* Beginners’ routing (2 days)
15 Bird, bee & bat boxes
15* Making a pestle & mortar
15 Pen making
21–23 Make a side table
30* Bandsaw course
* Course held in Sittingbourne, Kent
Axminster Tools & Machinery
Unit 10 Weycroft Avenue
Axminster, Devon EX13 5PH
Tel: 08009 751 905
Web: www.axminster.co.uk
10–11 Ash splint basketry
12 Spoon carving
12–18 Windsor chairmaking
14–16 Longbow making
17–18 Willow sculpture
Greenwood Days
Ferrers Centre for Arts & Crafts,
Staunton Harold, Leicestershire LE65 1RU
Tel: 01332 864 529
Web: www.greenwooddays.co.uk
4–7 Beginners’ four-day course
14–18 Router skills
Chris Tribe, The Cornmill, Railway Road
Ilkley, West Yorkshire LS29 8HT
Tel: 01943 602 836
Web: www.christribefurniturecourses.com
19 Pyrography
22 Pen turning
23–24 Woodturning
Turners Retreat, Faraday Close
Harworth, Nottinghamshire DN11 8RU
Tel: 01302 744 344
Web: www.turners-retreat.co.uk
12–13 Wood machining
John Lloyd Fine Furniture
Bankside Farm, Ditchling Common
Burgess Hill, East Sussex RH15 0SJ
Tel: 01444 480 388
Web: www.johnlloydfinefurniture.co.uk
26 Ancient & recent river & sea boats
of Sussex, Kent & South East England
Weald & Downland Living Museum
Singleton, Chichester, West Sussex
PO18 0EU
Tel: 01243 811 363
Web: www.wealddown.co.uk
6 Greenwood low stool
10 Basic drill skills
13 Introduction to woodcarving
24 Introduction to sharpening
The Goodlife Centre, 49/55 Great
Guildford Street, London SE1 0ES
Tel: 0207 760 7613
Web: www.thegoodlifecentre.co.uk
12 GW331 May 2018 www.getwoodworking.com
CRAFT SUPPLIES LAUNCHES
WITH INDUSTRY WEB FIRST
Woodworking retailer Turners Retreat is
incorporating Craft Supplies into its name
to reflect its growing brand portfolio and
follows its recent advancement into the
art of pyrography. The move coincides
with the launch of an industry ground-
breaking website.
The new website promises a fresh
approach to online shopping in the
woodworking industry with a browsing bar
enabling visitors to quickly click through
related products. Only seen in some of the
large high street fashion retailer sites, this
feature makes website navigation similar
to browsing the aisle in your favourite store.
For those who know what they want, an intuitive search facility will quickly select
products and direct visitors to where they want to go. Alternatively, a neatly arranged
menu option will take you to tool categories and product pages.
The new website will boast more than 3,000 listed products, including over 200
exclusive items. There are new items for pyrography, branding irons and ceramic stones,
along with a range of Foredom rotary power tools to celebrate the launch.
A series of unique features will provide thousands of loyal customers with an enhanced
user experience. Demonstration films, ‘how to’ tool guides and an inspirational gallery
of finished projects showing what can be achieved with a little dedication are just some
of the things visitors to the new website can expect to see.
A product review and comments section will provide an opportunity for shoppers to have
their say and an events page will keep users informed of upcoming shows, open days and
craft workshops. Sign up online to receive the blog and newsletter and you could win over
£1,000 worth of tools. Registered users will be the first to hear about the latest fantastic
offers and new product releases.
The Nottinghamshire-based outlet is a favourite for woodturners, woodcarvers and
pyrographers across the UK. Excited by the launch, store manager David Green, said: “The
coming together of Turners Retreat and Craft Supplies gave new direction to our company.
The launch of our ground-breaking website has provided us with the platform to branch out
into new areas of the craft world. The browser bar makes navigating quick, simple and easy.
It brings a real-life sensation to online shopping normally only found in-store. Our vision is
for our customers to make this their website of choice. We want it to be the go-to place for all
their woodworking needs and provide the opportunity for them to help create an environment
for like-minded woodworkers.” To find out more, see www.turners-retreat.co.uk.
NEWS IN BRIEF
Coming up next month is Makers Central, a brand-new event which takes place at the NEC
Birmingham on 5–6 May. Bringing together thousands of makers from around the world,
from crafters and inventors to hobbyists and artists, this event allows them to share their
passion for all things creative. Makers Central is specifically aimed at the maker community;
if you make or just share the passion for creating, come and join Nick Zammeti and the
extensive range of exhibitors and demonstrators for this spectacular weekend of fun.
Book your tickets now to join in the celebration of creativity and learning – to find out
more, see www.makerscentral.co.uk
Axminster Tools & Machinery’s managing director Alan Styles was recently made a liveryman
of The Furniture Makers’ Company at a court meeting and dinner held at the Furniture
Makers’ Hall back in March. Alan has moved up from the position of corporate liveryman,
which he became in 2013, to liveryman, which means he is now entitled to wear the livery
of the guild to which he belongs. Alongside Alan, Axminster’s sales director Darran McLeod
was admitted to the Company as a corporate liveryman. Membership of the Company as a
liveryman, corporate liveryman or freeman is available to those employed or who have been
employed in the furnishing industry. Thus, individuals are able to contribute to the industry
and its work outside of their normal employment, and even after they have retired. To find
out more about The Furniture Makers’ Company, see www.furnituremakers.org.uk, and
to find out more about Axminster Tools & Machinery, visit www.axminster.co.uk
BOSCH 12V CORDLESS PLANER & CORDLESS EDGE
ROUTER MASTER GONDOLA CRAFTSMANSHIP
"It is a challenge to yourself. You put your body and soul into
every boat. You put your all into it, to make it perfect." Roberto
Tramontin has a passion for his demanding craft running through
his veins. He is a gondola builder in Venice, the fourth generation
of craftsmen in his family. His yard is in the district of Dorsoduro,
where the canals are often completely still and calm water reflects
the facades of the old buildings. His great-grandfather Domenico
Tramontin opened the workshop in 1884 and had a hand in shaping
the tradition of gondola-building in Venice.
The tools used in traditional construction include the axe,
saw, hammer and planer. Roberto still has his grandfather's
wooden hand-held planer into which the impression of a hand
has become worn over the years. At the same time, he also counts
on professional power tools. "It is a traditional craft, but that does
not mean you always have to stick to the old ways of doing things.
You have to keep developing in order to improve," he says, and
hands his colleague Paolo Favaro the Bosch GHO 12V-20
Professional cordless planer – the only 12V version on the market.
"A planer needs to be lightweight because it is mainly used with
just one hand and for long periods of time," he explains. The GHO
12V-20 Professional is comparable to a traditional hand-held planer
in terms of weight and size, meaning it offers familiar handling
characteristics. This helps Paolo to work comfortably, flexibly lost. The chip ejector also ensures flexibility since it can be
and with control in any position. inserted on the right- or left-hand side of the tool as preferred.
The tool is also well-balanced, ergonomic and especially “Gondola construction is painstaking,” explains Roberto,
compact, which is made possible by the 12V system as well as “and this is why the quality of the tools we use for working
the use of brushless EC motor technology. Furthermore, this EC the wood is very important to us.”
motor offers high performance and does not require maintenance. The small cordless planer has passed its mastership examination,
As a connoisseur of silence, Roberto particularly appreciates the a good reason for the gondola builder to test out another tool from
fact that the planer is quiet. The robust design with an aluminium the Bosch 12V Professional range. The GKF 12V-8 Professional is the
planer shaft and many practical features make a positive first 12V cordless edge router. Its handle is especially narrow and
impression on Paolo. The depth can be adjusted at the turn of a ergonomically shaped, so the tool is comfortable to operate with
20-step knob, up to a maximum of 2mm. If a planing depth deeper one hand, for routing convex or concave profiles and chamfers.
than 1mm is required, a safety button releases the adjustment. Roberto adds: "You see the wood lying there and you make
The replacement blade is housed in a small drawer in the tool something from it which the whole world envies. It is a symbol
handle, and the hex key required to change it is located in a of Italy. I love building them; it comes from my heart."
division within the battery compartment – so nothing can get To find out more, see www.bosch-professional.com.

FREE READER ADS Send your adverts to: tegan.foley@mytimemedia.com

Copies of The Woodworker
magazine – Nov 2008-
December 2016 – less a couple
of issues. Free to collect or pay
for shipping
07771 663 964 (Warwickshire)
Assorted power tools; stand
and tabletop bandsaws; new
boxed Bosch router and other
routers, sanders & accessories.
Have receipts – call for details
07701 330 705 (Staffordshire)
50 turning blanks, various
sizes, and woods; £25.
Crompton Parkinson 1/2hp
motor, 2 Amp, single-phase,
little used; £20. Buyer to collect
01322 664 388 (Kent)
Good Woodworking issue 1
(Nov 1992) to issue 37 – in three
GW binders. Mint collectable
– offers in excess of £100
01722 413 167 (Wiltshire)
Record Power WG200 8in
wetstone sharpening system,
complete with accessories.
Unused, still in box. Cost £150,
selling for £100
01322 664 388 (Kent)
Record CL2 woodturning lathe
and accessories; £150
07763 466 490 (Scotland)
Vintage Stanley planes:
No.4 USA 1910 – £30; No.4
New Britton USA 1902-10 –
£30; set of black Stanley
5001 chisels – £35
01922 455 592 (West Midlands)
Proxxon DH40 precision
thicknesser – 80 × 40mm
capacity; micro adjustable;
will plane planking down to
1mm thick with superb finish;
replacable HSS blades; power
feed; very good condition &
little used; £275 plus £19.95
shipping charge
07876 021 620
Leigh D4 24in dovetail jig
& accessories. As new; around
50% discount on new price
– £300
01278 457 619 (Somerset)
Record 24x lathe; RP400
chuck; Record BS250 bandsaw;
various turning chisels; Clarke
bench drill & more; £350
07917 344 048 (Northants)
SIP oscillating bench bobbin
sander on cast-iron table –
in very good condition;
£175 – buyer to collect –
call for details
01503 263 824 (Cornwall)
Selection of woodturner’s/
carver’s boxwood trunks;
large sections – 60 × 20cm
dia., 90 × 30cm dia. & 120 ×
15cm dia. Photos available;
£80 – call to find out more
07881 971 737 (Ilfracombe)

www.getwoodworking.com GW331 May 2018 13

Kit & Tools Makita DRT50ZJX3 cordless LXT router
A SERIOUS
& COMPACT
POWER TOOL
Benefitting from four different versatile bases, this
cordless router/trimmer includes a whole host of
accessories, making it a very comprehensive kit
U
nlike the recently launched
Ryobi and Bosch power tools, the
new Makita DRT50 is a cordless
version of their 240V palm router.
But it’s more than merely a machine for
adding edge profiles or trimming laminate.
With so many accessories provided in this
comprehensive kit (including four bases and
a straight fence), it’s a serious compact power
tool. Although pricey, this is a professional
tool and is available in a less expensive format
(around £217) if you don’t want all the bells
and whistles. The kit tested here comes bare,
with no batteries or charger included. Should
you need these, the X2 kit with two 4.0Ah
Li-ion batteries and charger will set you back
around £600.
A cavernous, substantial Makpac storage
case is provided here, plus a lift-out fabric
inner bag. With so many small gadgets,
screws and wrenches it would make sense
to store these in a small plastic box – there’s
certainly plenty of room for one.
Brushless technology
Before taking a closer look at each base, let’s
investigate the tool itself. The low-energy,
brushless motor is housed in a cylindrical,
cast aluminium body. Machining and finish
here are faultless, as you’d expect, and even
without a base attached it’s weighty. With a
4.0Ah battery and plunge base fitted it’s a
hefty 3.04kg. Designed to accept any 18V
Makita battery, the tool will sit securely upside
down on the bench for cutter changing. The
battery simply slides into the upper plastic
A cavernous, substantial Makpac storage case
is provided here, plus a lift-out fabric inner bag
14 GW331 May 2018 www.getwoodworking.com
housing when you’re ready for action.
A recessed thumb dial enables you to select
speeds from 10,000 to 30,000rpm, a wider
range than offered by some 240V routers.
In fact, I’m pretty sure that this is the world’s
first cordless router equipped with variable-
speed. Constant speed control and soft
start electronics enhance performance.
A pair of on/off buttons mean it’s virtually
impossible to activate the tool accidentally
and these are shrouded against dust.
Pressing the left one puts the router into
standby mode and switches on a pair of
bright LED work lights underneath. These will
switch off after 10 seconds unless you press
the second button, which fires up the motor.
Pressing either button shuts off the power.
You can either change a cutter with the
motor fitted into a base or removed from it.
The red, spring-loaded spindle lock button
is easy to reach, while a spanner is used to
tighten the collet nut. Both 1⁄4in and 8mm
collets are supplied, as well as a second
spanner, which can be used if you prefer
to bypass the spindle lock and use the
more dated but reliable system.
Trimmer base
In its most basic format the router comes
with an aluminium trimmer base as standard.
Most of this is covered in rubber, creating
an excellent hand grip. It’s dead easy to
fit together, a cogged wheel on the collar
locating on a toothed section on the motor
housing. A plastic knob operates the smooth
rack and pinion action to set cutter depth.
Pressing either button shuts off the power.
There are two LEDs in the base
A sturdy steel lever then locks the base
at your chosen setting, its tension adjusted
with a small wrench if necessary.
Both metric and imperial graduations are
etched on the housing, with maximum travel
of 35mm. The 5mm thick plastic soleplate
can be replaced if necessary, with a cut-out
diameter of 30mm. A plastic thumbwheel
enables a 160mm long, pressed steel fence to
be attached, up to 90mm from the cutter. A
couple of holes mean you can fit a hardwood
facing. By turning the fence upside down
circular routing work is feasible, using the
arm with a nail inserted as a trammel point.
A clear plastic dust shield is supplied that
clips into the base, enabling you to hook up
a vacuum extractor hose. With a 32mm outlet,
a thumbscrew secures the shield in place.
Tilt base
You can increase the router’s scope further
by adding the 90mm square tilt base. With
a similar surround to the trimmer base, the
steel plate can be tilted and locked with
a pair of wingnuts. Again, there’s a 5mm
soleplate screwed to the face. Open on one
side, access for cutter changing is particularly
good with this base. Tilting up to 45° forward
and 30° backwards, there’s a protractor scale
on one side.
Marked in 5° increments, there’s no stop
at zero (or 90°), so you have to trust your
eyesight for accuracy when resetting.
Maximum depth travel is 40mm. You’ll need
The red, spring-loaded spindle lock button
is easy to reach, while a spanner is used to
tighten the collet nut

Both 1⁄4in and 8mm collets are supplied, as well
as a second spanner if you prefer to bypass the
spindle lock and use the more dated system
A couple of holes in the fence allows you to fit
a hardwood facing
Tilting up to 45° forward and 30° backwards,
there’s a protractor scale on one side
to run the router against a guide fence
or batten as it’s not possible to attach
the fence with this base.
Plunge base
The plunge base transforms this router into
a really versatile tool. Again, it’s sturdy and
a cinch to fit, with ubiquitous locking lever.
Plunge locking is via a plastic lever that’s easy
to reach, while the rotating, three-way depth
turret has fine adjuster screws
In its most basic
format the router
comes with an
aluminium trimmer
base as standard
With a 32mm outlet, a thumbscrew secures
the dust shield in place
The plunge base
transforms this
router into a really
versatile tool
The 70mm diameter opening means you
can use larger cutters, while a 17mm steel
guide (included) can be installed for template
routing. With no exposed springs to collect
dust, the two plunge columns retract
smoothly into the aluminium housing with
up to 35mm of travel. A pair of comfortable
textured rubber handles offer great control
The threaded rod incorporates a fine adjuster
screw at the top, with a full rotation equal to
1mm travel
www.getwoodworking.com GW331 May 2018 15
A plastic knob operates the smooth rack
and pinion action to set cutter depth
You can increase the router’s scope further
by adding the 90mm square tilt base
A pair of comfortable textured rubber handles
offer great control, and one of these can be
swapped for the bar grip handle that’s standard
of the tool, and one of these can be swapped
for the bar grip handle that’s standard.
Plunge locking is via a plastic lever that’s
easy to reach, while the rotating, three-way
depth turret has fine adjuster screws. The
steel depth post is set approximately by
depressing a spring-loaded button. You then
move a red plastic pointer along the post to
The fence is locked with a couple of thumb
buttons and gives a maximum capacity of
125mm from the cutter centre
Kit & Tools Makita DRT50ZJX3 cordless LXT router
A second plastic dust shield is provided with
an extractor port
read zero on the depth scale, with
graduations in both metric and imperial.
The threaded rod incorporates a fine adjuster
screw at the top, with a full rotation equal to
1mm travel. Once this is set, you can lock the
depth setting via a screw collar surrounding
the button.
To use the fence with this base you need
to fit an adaptor to the side. This is locked
with a couple of thumb buttons and gives a
maximum capacity of 125mm from the cutter
centre; however, it can only be mounted on
one side of the router. This base will accept
standard, full-length fence rods, though
these are not included. A second plastic
dust shield is provided with an extractor port.
Offset base
What’s really useful with the offset base
is that you can work tightly into a corner.
Compared with the other bases, though,
it’s a faff to fit. That’s because the collet itself
is offset from the motor spindle (by about
65mm) and is driven by a toothed rubber belt.
Fitting entails unscrewing the 6mm plastic
soleplate, removing collet and retaining
nut and replacing with a toothed nut, sliding
on the base, then hooking up the drive belt.
You then refit the soleplate before inserting
a cutter. Instead of a spindle lock you use
a spanner and hex key for tightening.
The set-up actually works very well, but
you do need to plan your routing sequence
to avoid the frustration of having to switch
from offset base and back again should you
… removing collet and retaining nut and
replacing with a toothed nut, sliding on
the base, then hooking up the drive belt
16 GW331 May 2018 www.getwoodworking.com
What’s really useful with the offset base
is that you can work tightly into a corner
forget a cut. To revert to another base means
reversing the whole process. There’s no depth
adjustment here, so you’re restricted in cutter
choice in this mode.
The offset soleplate can also be screwed
to the standard trimmer base to increase its
surface area. You can then add the bar grip
handle for increased control.
Conclusion
The bar grip can be fitted to either the plunge
or offset bases. An alloy trimmer guide is also
provided for cleaning up curved edges and
is simply screwed to the side of the trimmer
base. Its steel roller is adjustable laterally as
well as for depth.
There’s a risk that anyone buying this
package could be slightly overwhelmed by
the contents. I don’t know how useful four
individual bases are likely to be, though it’s
nice to have these options. All are fast to fit
apart from the offset version, which takes
a considerable time.
With the advantage of constant, variable-
speed and a brushless motor there’s sufficient
power for any small-scale routing task,
though make sure you have a fully charged
second battery as back-up. The LEDs are a
real benefit when working in less than ideal
lighting conditions, while the dual power
buttons are a clever safety feature.
Ergonomically the Makita is well designed,
with excellent build quality. Using the router
is straightforward enough, with controls easy
to reach. The basic fence could be longer,
You then refit the soleplate before inserting
a cutter. Instead of a spindle lock you use a
spanner and hex key for tightening
The collet itself is offset from the motor spindle
and is driven by a toothed rubber belt. Fitting
entails unscrewing the 6mm plastic soleplate…
though fitting a hardwood facing would
definitely be an improvement. Cordless tools
generally continue to grow in popularity as
battery technology develops. With battery
routers flavour of the month, could we see
them eventually replacing 240V versions?
Maybe, if power-hungry cordless mitre saws
are anything to go by. A three-year warranty
is standard with the DRT50. GW
SPECIFICATION:
Battery type: Lithium-ion
Voltage: 18V
Collet capacity: 3⁄8 and 1⁄4in
Noise sound pressure: 78dB(A)
Plunge capacity (trimmer): 0-40mm
Plunge capacity (plunge): 0-35mm
No load speed: 10,000-30,000rpm
Typical price: £390 (bare)
Web: www.makitauk.com
THE GW VERDICT
PROS:
Variable-speed; safety on/off buttons;
four bases included; LED work lights;
high build quality
CONS:
Offset base takes ages to fit; no zero
stop on tilt base
RATING: 5 out of 5
The offset soleplate can also be screwed
to the standard trimmer base to increase
its surface area
THE UK’s PREMIER BRANDED HAND, POWER TOOLS & MACHINERY EVENT

‘THE’TOOL
SHOW ‘18
THETOOLSHOW.COM
FREE ENTRY • FREE PARKING • FREE SHOW GUIDE • FREE MASTERCLASSES
LATEST PRODUCTS • EXCLUSIVE SHOW OFFERS • DEMONSTRATIONS • BIG SAVINGS

FREE
ENTRY !
& PARKING
AT E IN Y O U R D IARY!
PUT THE D
VISIT STANDS STAFFED BY THE MAJOR BRANDS INCLUDING:

+ MORE!
THIS YEAR’S BIGGEST & BEST ANNUAL TOOL SHOW
12th-14th OCTOBER 2018
FRI-SAT 10am – 5pm • SUN 10am – 4pm
KEMPTON PARK RACECOURSE • SUNBURY-ON-THAMES • TW16 5AQ
D&M TOOLS, TWICKENHAM • 020 8892 3813 • DM-TOOLS.CO.UK
 4" BELT/

‘1 R
OP IDD STO EW

NE TE
EN ER RE
LEG STAND KITS

8
6" DISC
N

JU NS
FOR CTS10D
S MI TABLE SAWS AND CTS11 SANDER
ONLY £27.59 Dust extraction facility
INC VAT 4" x 36" belt tilts & locks 0-90°
225mm x 160mm table, tilts 0-90°
K

370W, 230V motor

CS4-6E
£HEADER.99
92EXC.VAT
FROM ONLY
HEADER
SUPERSTORES £
111 .59
FOOTERINC.VAT
£
72EXC.VAT
.99 NATIONWIDE
£
87 .59 BEST
FOOTER
INC.VAT
SELLER
INCLUDES CTS10D
LEFT
& RIGHT
MODEL
CTS800B
MOTOR BLADE EXC.VAT INC.VAT
600W 200mm £72.99 £87.59 WHERE QUALITY
TABLE CTS11
EXTENSION *Moulded base
1500W 254mm £154.99 £185.99
CTS10D 1500W 254mm £169.98 £203.98 COSTS LESS
6" BELT/
TABLE SAW WITH FURY5-S TABLE WOODWORKING POWER PLANERS 9" DISC
EXTENSION SAW VICES SANDER
CTS14 TABLES (250mm) TE-PL850 Includes stand
1 HP/ 230V/
Ideal for cross cutting, 1ph motor
ripping, angle and FROM ONLY CS6-9C
mitre cutting Easy FROM ONLY .99
release/locking mechanism £
159EXC.VAT
.98
£
14EX.VAT £
239.00
EXC.VAT
WV7 FROM ONLY
HEADER
for table extensions 0-45° £
191INC.VAT
.98
£
17.99
INC.VAT • 82mm
cutting
£
54EXC.VAT
.99
£
286.80
INC.VAT
tilting blade Cutting depth: MODEL MOUNTING JAW £
72mm at 90° / 65mm at 45° • 1500W motor (WIDTH/OPENING
width 65 .99
FOOTER
INC.VAT
• 0-60° mitre /DEPTH)mm EXC.VAT INC.VAT MODEL DEPTH EXC.VAT INC.VAT
£ SHOWN WITH gauge
129EXC.VAT
.98
OPTIONAL LEG KIT • Cutting
Clarke
CHT152
Bolted 150/152/61 £14.99 £17.99 MOTOR OF CUT
£ Einhell TE-PL850 850W 3mm £54.99 £65.99
155INC.VAT
.98 CLK5 £19.98
EXC.VAT
depth: Steel Stanley Clamped 72/60/40 £18.99 £22.79 B&D KW750K - GB 750W# 2mm £57.99 £69.59 1" BELT/ 5"
3mm, Wood 85mm at
£23.98 INC.VAT 90° or 58mm at 45°
Multi Angle DISC SANDER
Record TV75B Clamped 75/50/32 £21.99 £26.39 Includes 2 tables
Clarke WV7 Bolted 180/205/78 £29.98 £35.98 TURBO AIR COMPRESSORS that tilt & lock
40" WOODTURNING LATHE £
Ideal for woodturning in the workshop 13" MINI 69EX.VAT
.98
£
1016mm distance between centres allows for turning longer WOOD LATHE
Superb range ideal
83INC.VAT
.98
spindles Inc. tool rest, tail stock, drive centre, face plate & 3 chisel £
Large turning capacity of 350mm 4 turning speeds 154EX.VAT
.99
for DIY, hobby & semi Quality
£
185INC.VAT
.99 -professional use Induction
NEW £
FROM ONLY
CBS1-5 300W motor

CWL1000B 89EXC.VAT
.98
£
ONLY 107INC.VAT
.98

£
136EXC.VAT
.99
CWL325V * ’V’ Twin Pump 8/250 4" BELT/
£
164INC.VAT
.99
• Ideal for enthusiasts/
MODEL MOTOR CFM TANK EXC.VAT INC.VAT 8" DISC SANDER
8/250 2HP 7.5 24ltr £89.98 £107.98 Includes
LOCKABLE BENCH hobbyists with small workshops 7/250 2 HP 7 24ltr £94.99 £113.99 two tables
TAILSTOCK MOUNTED • 325mm distance between centres • 200mm 11/250 2.5HP 9.5 24ltr £109.98 £131.98
max. turning capacity (dia) • 0.2HP motor 8/510 2HP 7.5 50ltr £119.98 £143.98
11/510 2.5HP 9.5 50ltr £139.98 £167.98 550W
DUST EXTRACTOR/ HIGH 16/510* 3 HP 14.5 50ltr £209.00 £250.80 230V motor
CHIP COLLECTORS VELOCITY CAT111 16/1010* 3 HP 14.5 100ltr £259.98 £311.98
£
CDE7B £
FROM ONLY
FANS AIR TOOLS HARDWOOD 159.98
EXC.VAT
36EX.VAT
.99
CAT165 FROM ONLY 191.98
£
£
44INC.VAT
.39 20" BOX FAN £
21EXC.VAT
.99 WORKBENCH INC.VAT CS4-8
Includes bench dogs and guide holes for
HUGE CHOICE IN-STORE/ONLINE
£
26INC.VAT
.39
variable work positioning 2 Heavy Duty Vices DISC SANDER
18" Large storage drawer Sunken tool trough (305MM)
PEDESTAL MODEL DESCRIPTION EXC. VAT INC. VAT
CAT111 Orbital Sander £21.99 £26.39 LxWxH 1520x620x855mm Powerful, bench
FAN
CAT160 6" Dual Action Random mounted 900W
CPF18B
CWVE1 NEW Orbital Palm Sander £39.98 £47.98 Dust extraction
FROM ONLY
CBF20 CAT165* 10mm Air Belt Sander £39.98 £47.98 port
£
109.98
EXC.VAT CAT168 50mm Right Angle
£
£
131.98
INC.VAT
Powerful *chrome #black Orbital Sander £34.99 £41.99 CHB1500 129.98
EXC.VAT
£
1100W
motor 50 litre bag capacity
MODEL SIZE/TYPE EXC.VAT INC.VAT *was £59.98 inc. VAT 155.98
INC.VAT
CBF20 20" Box Fan £36.99 £44.39 CDS300B
Flow rate of 850M3/h CFF18C* NEW 18" Floor Fan £39.98 £47.98 BELT SANDERS
Ideal for surface removal, £
CFF18B# NEW 18" Floor Fan £39.98 £47.98
CPF18B NEW 18" Pedestal Fan £49.98 £59.98 sanding and finishing 149EXC.VAT
.98

FLOW BAG £
179INC.VAT
.98
MODEL MOTOR RATE CAP. EXC.VAT INC.VAT ABRASIVE SANDING
CPF13 BELTS IN STOCK
CWVE1 1100W 183 M3/h 50Ltrs £109.98 £131.98 BS1
CDE35B 750W 450 M3/h 56Ltrs £144.99 £173.99 SHEET CON300
CDE7B 750W 850 M3/h 114Ltrs £159.98 £191.98 ELECTRIC FROM ONLY DETAIL SANDERS
POWER 36EXC.VAT
£ .99 SANDERS Ergonomic design
RANDOM ORBITAL FILE £ • Perfect for for optimum
SANDER 44INC.VAT
.39
smooth and fine CDS-1V comfort £
FROM ONLY
Adjustable £ finishing along FROM ONLY *was £41.99 16EXC.VAT
.99

front handle £32EX.VAT

.99
£
Variable belt speed FROM ONLY
MODEL MOTOR M/MIN EXC.VAT INC.VAT with hard to 19 .98
EXC.VAT inc.VAT
£
20INC.VAT
.39
improves 39INC.VAT
.59
Tilting head
£
49EXC.VAT
.98 Clarke BS1
Clarke CBS2
900W 380
1200W 480
£36.99 £44.39
£79.98 £95.98
reach areas or
curved surfaces
£
23INC.VAT
.98
MODEL SHEET SIZE MOTOR EXC.VAT INC.VAT
control £ COS200 190X90mm 150W £16.99 £20.39
7000-14000rpm *Black & Decker 59INC.VAT
.98
Makita 9911 650W 75-270 £89.98 £107.98 MODEL WATTS EXC.VAT INC.VAT
C0N300*230X115mm 330W £32.99 £39.59
PS105 105W £19.98 £23.98
CROS3 BELT SIZE CDS-1V 280W £29.98 £35.98
INC DUST BAG AND MODEL MOTOR (mm) EXC.VAT INC.VAT CIRCULAR SAWS PORTABLE
SELECTION OF 125MM FROM ONLY ALL MODELS INC. SANDING SHEETS
CPF13 400W/230V 13x457 £49.98 £59.98 Great range of DIY £ THICKNESSER
DIAMETER SANDING DISCS
KA900E* 350W/230V 13x455 £59.98 £71.98 and professional 41EXC.VAT
.99
Max thickness
£ FROM ONLY cap. 125mm and
18V CORDLESS saws Ideal 50INC.VAT
.39
£
49EX.VAT
.98 250mm wide
for bevel Planing depths
DRILL/DRIVERS cutting WET & DRY £
59INC.VAT
.98
adjustable
18V BRUSHLESS (0-45°) VACUUM * SS = from 0-2.5mm
COMBI DRILLS CON185 CLEANERS Stainless Powerful
2 forward and Compact, high Steel 1250W motor
reverse gears performance wet & dry
£
vacuum cleaners for 219EXC.VAT
.00
NEW *Includes
use around the home, £
262INC.VAT
.80
CON18Li RANGE CON180LI laser guide
workshop, garage etc.
CPT250
FROM ONLY #was £119.98 inc.VAT
£ FROM ONLY MODEL MOTOR CAPACITY EXC. INC.
69EXC.VAT .98
£
109EXC.VAT
.98
MODEL MOTOR MAX CUT DRY/WET VAT VAT COBS1
£
83INC.VAT
.98
£
131INC.VAT
.98 90/45 CVAC20P 1250W 16/12ltr £49.98 £59.98
(mm) EXC.VAT INC.VAT CVAC20SS* 1400W 16/12ltr £59.98 £71.98 OSCILLATING
MODEL VOLTS BATTS EXC. VAT INC.VAT MODEL VOLTS BATTS EXC. VAT INC. VAT CCS185B 1200W 65/44 £41.99 £50.39 CVAC20PR2 1400W 16/12ltr £64.99 £77.99
CON18Ni 18V 2 x Ni-Cd £69.98 £83.98 CON18LIC 18V 2x 2.0Ah Li-Ion £109.98 £131.98 CCS2 1300W 60/45 £59.98 £71.98 CVAC25SS* 1400W 19/17ltr £67.99 £81.59
BOBBIN
CON18Li 18V 2 x Li-Ion £89.98 £107.98 CON180LI 18V 2x 4.0Ah Li-Ion £169.98 £203.98 CON185* 1600W 60/40 £62.99 £75.59 CVAC30SSR*# 1400W 24/21ltr £89.98 £107.98 SANDER
Dust collection
Simple fast assembly in port Inc. 6 sanding
BOLTLESS minutes using only a hammer WHETSTONE CPT800
sleeves/bobbins
SHARPENER
SAVE
SHELVING/BENCHES • Produces razor
PLANERS & £
139EXC.VAT
.98
(200MM) THICKNESSERS £
167INC.VAT
.98

10%
sharp cutting edges
on chisels, planes, etc. Ideal for
• Inc. 3 tool holding jigs, CWS200B DIY &
FROM ONLY WHEN YOU BUY workpiece
.98 ANY MIX OF 4
clamp &
Hobby use OSCILLATING
£
29EX.VAT FROM THIS RANGE
SAVE AT LEAST support
Dual purpose, BELT & BOBBIN
£
35.98
INC.VAT £23.99 INC.VAT frame,
for both
£
FROM ONLY
SANDER
(evenly
distributed) polishing
finishing &
sizing of
184EXC.VAT .99
Sand concave, convex,
£
Strong 9mm
CHOICE OF
5 COLOURS
paste & timber 221INC.VAT
.99
straight or multi-curved
fibreboard
RED, BLUE, GREY, SILVER & GALVANISED STEEL
water pieces Dust collection
PER SHELF shelves trough MODEL PLANING MAX THICK. EXC. INC. port Inc. sleeves, drum
WIDTH CAPACITY VAT VAT & belt
(evenly MODEL DIMS
350
KG
distributed)
Strong 12 mm
WxDxH(mm) EXC.VAT INC.VAT
150kg 800x300x1500 £29.98 £35.98
ONLY
119EXC.VAT
£ .98
CPT600
CPT800
6"
8"
120mm £184.99 £221.99
120mm £219.98 £263.98 £
179EXC.VAT
.98
fibreboard CPT1000 10" 120mm £299.00 £358.80 £ COEBS1
PER SHELF shelves 350kg 900x400x1800 £49.98 £59.98 £ .98
143INC.VAT 215INC.VAT
.98

27549LH
 FAST, EASY FINANCE GET
ONLINE/INSTORE
NOW O
VER

PRODUCTS ONLINE!
21,000 NEW CATALOGUE
500
PAGE
YOUR
FREE
For hard-to-find,
Over COPY
specialist items
NOW!
Over 12, 18 or 24 Months
Purchases over £300
visit the
500 PRICE CUTS &
• IN-STORE
• ONLINE
section on NEW PRODUCTS • PHONE
12.9% APR, 10% Deposit* 0844 880 1265
machinemart.co.uk

SLIDING BEST MAGNIFIED

COMPOUND SELLER BENCH MITRE PROFESSIONAL BANDSAWS
• For fast, accurate
cross, bevel & mitre MITRE
SAWS GUIDE
BANDSAW Top Quality Bandsaws - ideal for
cutting in most hard professional workshop use. Strong steel
& soft woods • Produces fast, body with solid cast iron table
• 1800W motor precise mitre • Table tilts 45° • Adjustable blade guide
• Laser guide JIGSAWS & longitudinal cuts • Supplied with stand, 4TPI wood cutting
• 350W motor
BEST £
FROM ONLY
• 7.5” throat size
blade, rip fence, mitre guide, mitre gauge
FROM
£
ONLY
HEADER SELLER 15EXC.VAT
.99
• Cuts in all types
and push stick • Induction motors
• Includes stand
89EXC.VAT.98
CON750 *DIY #Professional
£
19INC.VAT
.19
of wood
£
107 .98
FOOTERINC.VAT MODEL POWER DEPTH MODELS ALSO FEATURE:
£ HEADER.98
(W) OF CUT EXC. INC 129 EXC.VAT QUICK SOLID MULTI-STEP
(WOOD/STEEL) VAT VAT £ DUST
CMS10S2 CJS380* 420W 55/6mm £15.99 £19.19 155 .98
FOOTERINC.VAT RELEASE
FENCE
GROUND
CAST IRON EXTRACTION
BLADE MAX CUT CON750# 750W 80/10mm £27.99 £33.59 CBS190B TABLE OUTLET
DIA/BORE DEPTH/ Bosch PST700E* 500W 70/4mm £49.98 £59.98
MODEL (mm) CROSS EXC.VAT INC.VAT
£ DRIVE-BELT FLEXIBLE LED
CMS210S
CMS10S2
NEW 210/30 60/120 £89.98 £107.98
254/30 78/340 £139.98 £167.98
BISCUIT JOINTER 174EXC.VAT
.99
TENSIONING WORKLIGHT
11000rpm Operating Speed £
860W motor 14mm Cutting 209INC.VAT
.99

MITRE SAWS Depth Inc. dust bag, storage case MORTISING REMOVABLE BLADE TENSIONING
and face spanner for cutter change MACHINE CBS300 DUST TRAY CONTROL
CMS210
NEW Accurately creates
deep square recesses THROAT MAX MAX EXC. INC.
Table size 150 x FROM ONLY
HEADER MODEL DEPTH CUT 90° CUT 45° VAT VAT
£
FROM ONLY 340mm Max. chisel 199EXC.VAT
.00 CBS225 228mm/9" 90mm 50mm £199.00 £238.80
CBS300 305mm/12" 165mm 115mm £399.00 £478.80
£ stroke 76mm £
238 .80
59EXC.VAT
.98
CBM1B Robust cast iron base
FOOTERINC.VAT CBS350 340mm/14" 225mm 160mm £498.00 £597.60
# Laser 71INC.VAT
£ .98
52EXC.VAT
£
.99 & column ensures
Guide stability & accuracy GRINDERS &
TC-BJ900 63INC.VAT
£ .59
‡ Sliding 95mm depth of cut ROUTERS
Compound
STANDS
Stands come complete
SCROLL SAWS with bolt mountings
• Quality Range of Mitre CHISELS
saws and blades in stock “..fast and accurate with a good solid and feet
FROM ONLY AVAILABLE FROM feel…Excellent value for money.” • Powerful
MODEL BLADE DIA/ MAX CUT EXC. INC. £
82EXC.VAT
.99 CSS400C BEST £8.39 INC VAT See www.machinemart.co.uk heavy duty
anchor holes 6" & 8"
BORE (mm)DEPTH/CROSS VAT VAT £ SELLER machines FROM ONLY AVAILABLE
CMS210 210/30 60/120mm £59.98 £71.98 99INC.VAT
.59
STATIC PHASE ideal for
£
32EX.VAT
.99 WITH LIGHT
Einhell 210/30 55/120mm £59.98 £71.98 £
TC-MS 2112 • 50mm CONVERTERS trade and
DIY use
39INC.VAT
.59
STANDS FROM ONLY
Einhell max cut £47.98 INC.VAT
Run big 3 phase
TC-SM 2131#210/30 62/310mm£129.98 £155.98 thickness woodworking CR2
Einhell 250/30 75/340mm£159.98 £191.98 • Air-blower removes machines
TC-SM 2534‡ dust from cutting area from 1
• Table tilts 0-45° phase CR2 INCLUDES 15 PIECE
SPEED EXC. INC. supply KIT WORTH OVER £20
ONLY MODEL MOTOR RPM VAT VAT Variable
£
WORK TABLE 29EX.VAT
.98
CSS400B 85W 1450 £82.99 £99.59 output
£ CSS16VB 90W 550-1600 £94.99 £113.99 power to
SUPPORTS 35INC.VAT
.98
CSS400C 90W 550-1600 £114.99 £137.99 match HP £
FROM ONLY
(PAIR) CWTS1 of motor to
46EXC.VAT
.99
POLISHING KITS
• Ideal if you have your 13" MINI be run
£
56INC.VAT
.39 4" TO 8" FROM # With sanding belt
own work top or want WOOD LATHE ONLY £27.59 *8" whetstone &
to build a steel FROM ONLY INC VAT 6" drystone
£ ROTARY
or wood SIMPLY 154EX.VAT
.99
PHASE PC60
£
229EXC.VAT
.00
MODEL DUTY WHEEL
£
workbench • Inc.
mounting holes
ADD 185INC.VAT
.99 CONVERTERS £
274INC.VAT
.80
CR1C DIA. EXC.VAT INC.VAT
for worktop, BEST YOUR
OWN
ALSO IN STOCK
CONVERT 230V
CBG6RP
CBG6RZ
DIY 150mm £32.99 £39.59
PRO 150mm £42.99 £51.59
shelf and floor SELLER TOP 1PH TO 400V 3PH CBG6RSC HD 150mm £54.99 £65.99
MODEL MAX. FUSE EXC.VAT INC.VAT CBG6SB# PRO 150mm £54.99 £65.99
MOTOR HP *DIY CBG6RWC HD 150mm £59.98 £71.98
PC20 2HP 10Amps £229.00 £274.80 MODEL MOTOR PLUNGE EXC.VAT INC.VAT CBG8W* (wet) HD 150/200mm £56.99 £68.39
DRILL PRESSES CWL325V
PC40 3.5HP 20Amps £269.00 £322.80 (W) (mm)
Range of precision • Ideal for enthusiasts/ PC60 5.5HP 32Amps £319.00 £382.80 CR1C* 1200 0-50 £46.99 £56.39
bench & floor presses for hobbyists with small workshops Bosch 1400 0-55 £89.98 £107.98
enthusiast, engineering & • 325mm distance between centres • 200mm 12" POF1400ACE
industrial applications max. turning capacity (dia) • 0.2HP motor DOVETAIL JIG CR2 2100 0-60 £119.98 £143.98
FROM ONLY • Simple, easy to set up & use for producing a
£
66EXC.VAT
.99
variety of joints • Cuts work pieces with a
ROUTER TABLE
£ CDP152B MULTI FUNCTION thickness of 8-32mm • Includes a 1/2" comb
80INC.VAT
.39
template guide CRT-1
B = Bench mounted TOOL WITH ACCESSORY KIT & holes for Router not
F = Floor standing • Great for sawing, cutting, sanding, polishing, bench mounting included
chiselling & much more • 250W motor Professional
MOTOR (W) EXC. INC. • Variable speed
MODEL SPEEDS VAT VAT woodworking
CDP5EB 350 / 5 £66.99 £80.39 £
39EXC.VAT
.98 BEST tools and
CDP102B 350 / 5 £79.98 £95.98 £ SELLER machinery from
CDP152B 450 / 12 £149.98 £179.98 47INC.VAT
.98
£
Record,
CDP202B 450 / 16 £189.00 £226.80 CMFT250
• Converts your router
69EX.VAT
.98
Sheppach,
£
CDP10B 370 / 12 £198.99 £238.79
£ CDTJ12 into a stationary router 83INC.VAT
.98
Visit SIP and more!
CDP452B
CDP352F
550 / 16 £229.00
550 / 16 £229.00
£274.80
£274.80
57EXC.VAT
.99
table • Suitable for most www.machinemart.co.uk
£
CDP502F 1100 / 12 £499.00 £598.80 69INC.VAT
.59
routers (up to 155mm dia. Base plate) for more information
V
VISIT YOUR LOCAL SUPERSTORE OPEN MON-FRI 8.30-6.00,
SAT 8.30-5.30, SUN 10.00-4.00
5 EASY WAYS TO BUY...
BARNSLEY Pontefract Rd, Barnsley, S71 1EZ 01226 732297 EDINBURGH 163-171 Piersfield Terrace 0131 659 5919 MIDDLESBROUGH Mandale Triangle, Thornaby 01642 677881 SUPERSTORES
B’HAM GREAT BARR 4 Birmingham Rd.
B’HAM HAY MILLS 1152 Coventry Rd, Hay Mills
0121 358 7977
0121 7713433
EXETER 16 Trusham Rd. EX2 8QG
GATESHEAD 50 Lobley Hill Rd. NE8 4YJ
01392 256 744
0191 493 2520
NORWICH 282a Heigham St. NR2 4LZ
NOTTINGHAM 211 Lower Parliament St.
01603 766402
0115 956 1811
NATIONWIDE
BLACKPOOL 380-382 Talbot Road 01253 205 170 GLASGOW 280 Gt Western Rd. G4 9EJ 0141 332 9231 PETERBOROUGH 417 Lincoln Rd. Millfield 01733 311770
BOLTON 1 Thynne St. BL3 6BD 01204 365799 GLOUCESTER 221A Barton St. GL1 4HY 01452 417 948 PLYMOUTH 58-64 Embankment Rd. PL4 9HY 01752 254050 ONLINE
BRADFORD 105-107 Manningham Lane. BD1 3BN 01274 390962
BRIGHTON 123 Lewes Rd, BN2 3QB 01273 915999
GRIMSBY ELLIS WAY, DN32 9BD
HULL 8-10 Holderness Rd. HU9 1EG
01472 354435
01482 223161
POOLE 137-139 Bournemouth Rd. Parkstone
PORTSMOUTH 277-283 Copnor Rd. Copnor
01202 717913
023 9265 4777
www.machinemart.co.uk
BRISTOL 1-3 Church Rd, Lawrence Hill. BS5 9JJ 0117 935 1060 ILFORD 746-748 Eastern Ave. IG2 7HU 0208 518 4286 PRESTON 53 Blackpool Rd. PR2 6BU 01772 703263
BURTON UPON TRENT 12a Lichfield St. DE14 3QZ 01283 564 708
CAMBRIDGE 181-183 Histon Road, Cambridge. CB4 3HL 01223 322675
IPSWICH Unit 1 Ipswich Trade Centre, Commercial Road 01473 221253
LEEDS 227-229 Kirkstall Rd. LS4 2AS 0113 231 0400
SHEFFIELD 453 London Rd. Heeley. S2 4HJ
SIDCUP 13 Blackfen Parade, Blackfen Rd
0114 258 0831
0208 3042069
TELESALES
CARDIFF 44-46 City Rd. CF24 3DN 029 2046 5424 LEICESTER 69 Melton Rd. LE4 6PN 0116 261 0688 SOUTHAMPTON 516-518 Portswood Rd. 023 8055 7788 0115 956 5555
CARLISLE 85 London Rd. CA1 2LG 01228 591666 LINCOLN Unit 5. The Pelham Centre. LN5 8HG 01522 543 036 SOUTHEND 1139-1141 London Rd. Leigh on Sea 01702 483 742
CHELTENHAM 84 Fairview Road. GL52 2EH 01242 514 402 LIVERPOOL 80-88 London Rd. L3 5NF 0151 709 4484 STOKE-ON-TRENT 382-396 Waterloo Rd. Hanley 01782 287321
CHESTER 43-45 St. James Street. CH1 3EY 01244 311258 LONDON CATFORD 289/291 Southend Lane SE6 3RS 0208 695 5684 SUNDERLAND 13-15 Ryhope Rd. Grangetown 0191 510 8773 CLICK & COLLECT
COLCHESTER 4 North Station Rd. CO1 1RE 01206 762831 LONDON 6 Kendal Parade, Edmonton N18 020 8803 0861 SWANSEA 7 Samlet Rd. Llansamlet. SA7 9AG 01792 792969 OVER 10,000 LOCATIONS
COVENTRY Bishop St. CV1 1HT 024 7622 4227 LONDON 503-507 Lea Bridge Rd. Leyton, E10 020 8558 8284 SWINDON 21 Victoria Rd. SN1 3AW 01793 491717
CROYDON 423-427 Brighton Rd, Sth Croydon 020 8763 0640 LUTON Unit 1, 326 Dunstable Rd, Luton LU4 8JS 01582 728 063 TWICKENHAM 83-85 Heath Rd.TW1 4AW 020 8892 9117
DARLINGTON 214 Northgate. DL1 1RB 01325 380 841 MAIDSTONE 57 Upper Stone St. ME15 6HE 01622 769 572 WARRINGTON Unit 3, Hawley’s Trade Pk. 01925 630 937
DEAL (KENT) 182-186 High St. CT14 6BQ 01304 373 434 MANCHESTER ALTRINCHAM 71 Manchester Rd. Altrincham 0161 9412 666 WIGAN 2 Harrison Street, WN5 9AU 01942 323 785 CALL & COLLECT
DERBY Derwent St. DE1 2ED 01332 290 931 MANCHESTER CENTRAL 209 Bury New Road M8 8DU 0161 241 1851 WOLVERHAMPTON Parkfield Rd. Bilston 01902 494186
DONCASTER Wheatley Hall Road 01302 245 999 MANCHESTER OPENSHAW Unit 5, Tower Mill, Ashton Old Rd 0161 223 8376 WORCESTER 48a Upper Tything. WR1 1JZ 01905 723451 AT STORES TODAY
DUNDEE 24-26 Trades Lane. DD1 3ET 01382 225 140 MANSFIELD 169 Chesterfield Rd. South 01623 622160
27454RH Calls to the catalogue request number above (0844 880 1265) cost 7p per minute plus your telephone company’s network access charge. For security reasons, calls may be monitored. All prices correct
*
at time of going to press. We reserve the right to change products and prices at any time. All offers subject to availability, E&OE. Terms & conditions apply see machinemart.co.uk/finance for more details
Kit & Tools Shogun Japanese saws

FINE &
EFFICIENT
CUTTING
This range of saws represents an affordable introduction to Japanese
tools with all three capable of producing fine, efficient cuts

F
or finer cuts in timber it’s hard to
beat the efficiency of a Japanese
saw. With a blade thinner than
an equivalent Western tool and
generally with much finer teeth, these tools
are designed to cut on the pull stroke, rather
than being pushed across the wood. As the
blade is under tension the steel can be thin,
thus creating a narrower kerf. Traditional
tools can be pricey, though, so if you’ve
never used these oriental wonders, one
of the inexpensive saws from Shogun
could be a good introduction.
Traditional Japanese saws tend to have
handles wrapped in rattan, which adds to
Blades cannot be replaced once blunt and
teeth are too tiny to resharpen
With an incredibly thin, flexible blade, the FL120
saw is ideal for flush cutting
their mystique. Although still made in Japan,
these Shogun tools are slightly Westernised
in that handles are beech and riveted to the
blades. Blades cannot be replaced once blunt,
however, and teeth are too tiny to resharpen.
There’s a wide range of Shogun saws
available, though we’ve tested three here.
Triple edge tooth saw
With an incredibly thin, flexible blade, the
FL120 saw is ideal for flush cutting. Cutting
off protruding dowels or trimming small joints
is easy with the razor-sharp, triple-ground
teeth. Blade length is 120mm on this fine,
general purpose saw.
Mini dozuki saw
Dozuki saws are closer to Western dovetail
or gents saws as they’re made with steel
backs to give rigidity. The FLB100 has
incredibly small teeth on its 110mm blade
and would be a great choice for box making,
musical instruments or other detailed work.
Azebiki barrel saw
More specialised than the other two saws, the
MBS70 features a shorter, 70mm blade with a
convex lower edge. This enables you to make
a plunge cut anywhere in a thin board, though
starting it off accurately can be tricky. To get
a really straight cut it’s best to run the saw
against a guide batten cramped or pinned to
the workpiece. The stamped teeth are slightly
coarser than those on the other two tools.
Conclusion
Remember that once teeth have become dull
on any of these saws they’ll be hopeless for
cutting wood, though that’s also true of
most Western gents and jewellers saws.
I’m sure there’s scope to make the blades
into mini scrapers, though…
For a fine-toothed saw that’s good for
both cross-cutting and ripping I’d choose
the FL120, which gives the bonus of flush
cutting. The FLB100 mini dozuki is great
for very fine cross-cutting work and offers
a stiffer blade. Finally, the azebiki saw is
more limited but could be useful for some
jobs where you cannot start a cut from
the edge of a board. GW
SPECIFICATION:
The triple edge tooth saw features
a thin blade with triple-edged teeth
The mini dozuki saw features a steel
spine for steadying the ultra fine blade
The azebiki barrel saw is designed for
making accurate plunge cuts and slots
in solid and manmade panels and boards
Typical prices: £14.99 (FL120 & FLB100);
£19.99 (MBS70)
Web: www.johnsontools.co.uk
THE GW VERDICT
PROS:
An affordable introduction to Japanese
tools; very fine, efficient cuts
CONS:
Teeth too small to resharpen
RATING: 3.5 out of 5

Blade length is 120mm on this
fine, general purpose saw
The FLB100 has incredibly small
teeth on its 110mm blade and
would be a great choice for box
making, musical instruments or
other detailed work
The MBS70 features a shorter, To get a really straight cut it’s
70mm blade with a convex best to run the saw against a
lower edge guide batten cramped or pinned
to the workpiece

20 GW331 May 2018 www.getwoodworking.com


We get to grips with this new range
of clamps and accessories from IRWIN
I
t’s something of a woodworking
adage that you can’t have too
many clamps, and a pair or so
of these QUICK-GRIP versions
from dependable and long-established
manufacturer IRWIN would be an excellent
addition to everyone’s clamp collection.
Clamps are top of the list of most useful
pieces of kit in the workshop, and without
them life would be a lot harder, not to
mention the adverse affect it would
have on our work.
Even more versatile
Since its introduction to the market some
20 years ago, the quick clamp has proved
its worth, providing one-handed operation
and more than adequate holding force in
countless situations. The IRWIN QUICK-GRIP
Great range of fixtures and fittings
available at IronmongeryDirect
Fixtures and fittings are an essential part
of many carpentry jobs. However, with so
many products available on the market it
can be difficult to know which ones to pick.
The UK’s largest supplier of ironmongery,
IronmongeryDirect, offers a wide range of
products suited to every type of carpentry
project, be it a professional or DIY piece
of work.
Among the range of available fixtures
and fittings is the Vida All-Purpose screw
pack. Exclusive to IronmongeryDirect, the
pack offers 1,000 pieces in five popular sizes,
with features that make them resilient and
reliable for the great price of £12.50 – only
£1.25 for 100 screws. Each pack also comes
with five PZ2 driver bits.
Truly multi-purpose
The screws are suitable for a variety of
materials such as hardwood or MDF, and
do not require pre-drilling. Every screw has
a double countersunk head to decrease
the likelihood of head shear, and aids
in the completion of countersinking.
The Pozi recess prevents cam-out
IRWIN QUICK-GRIP One-Handed Bar Clamps Kit & Tools
QUICK & EASY
CLAMPING
SPECIFICATION:
Heavy-Duty clamps available in six sizes:
150, 300, 450, 600, 900 & 1,250mm
Medium-Duty clamps available in five
sizes: 150, 300, 450, 600 & 900mm
Light-Duty clamps: the Mini is available
in 150mm and 300mm; the Micro is
clamps come in medium- and heavy-duty available in 115mm
versions (as well as a mini one) and represent Available accessories: Edge Clamp;
the latest evolvement of the genre. They are Wide Pads; Corner Clamp; Clamp Coupler;
now even more versatile with the addition of a Hold-down Jig; Deck Tool; Clamp Stand
number of well thought-out accessories. Both
jaws on the clamp have removable pads – one Typical price: From £13
of which will pivot to increase functionality on Web: www.irwin.co.uk
awkward shapes – and can be replaced with
a number of specific attachments. These THE GW VERDICT
include the following: the Clamp Coupler,
Deck Tool Kit, Corner Clamp and the Hold- PROS:
down Jig. One-handed operation; versatile; robust
Conclusion CONS:
I found that the clamps themselves, and The price of the accessories can
all the component parts, were of a strong mount up
and robust build, and jaws and accessories
clipped together firmly and stayed that RATING: 4.5 out of 5
way during operations. Good stuff. GW
and improves torque, along with a low
torque coating that enhances insertion
time, provides extra driving force and
protects from corrosion to ensure products
withstand the test of time. The screws also
have a 40° deep single thread that provides
a secure fixing, with high pull-out resistance
and an easy-start slash.
Wide range of screws
The Spax Decking Screw is another great
product, which again requires no pre-drilling.
The non-thread shank allows two materials
to be pulled together tightly with the upper
thread locking in the deckboard securely. The
screw comes with a WIROX coating, which is
exclusive to Spax, and has a 15 year no-rust
guarantee. Plus, for a limited time only, you Vida All-Purpose screws are
can get a 20% saving on a tub of 250! exclusive to IronmongeryDirect
IronmongeryDirect also sells an assortment
of round head nails suitable for general- IronmongeryDirect has over 16,500
purpose use, and brad nails to reduce the products available. Orders can be placed
risk of splitting and provide a neater finish. as late as 8pm for next day delivery, and
Other helpful woodworking products include by 4pm on weekends. For more info, visit
anchor fixings, lost head nails, panel pins, www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk or call
hinges, bolts, sealants and adhesives. 0800 168 28 28.
www.getwoodworking.com GW331 May 2018 21
Solutions Borderlands
Timber-framing
Dave Roberts opens the series
by trying to characterise the distinctive
quality of life in the rural borderlands
B
etween lowland and mountain; beside Offa’s
Dyke; in the Welsh Marches; astride a line
drawn in the 16th century. There are many
ways to indicate where the rural borderlands
between England and Wales lie, including colourful
anomalies like the The Lion in Llanymynech: until it
closed, the pub sat astride the border and had one bar
in Wales and two in England, so drinkers could avoid dry
Sundays in Montgomeryshire by sitting in Shropshire.
It is much harder, though, to characterise the nature
of life in these areas, where the cultures of both
Our forester countries have long mixed with fluidity, albeit at times
who does some with a turbulent fluidity. The result – hereabouts, anyway
woodwork: “I like the – is an outlook that is neither wholly the independence
idea of self-reliance, of the Welsh hill-farm, nor the more collective mindset
of not having big of the English town. It is instead a type of ‘apartness’,
companies make a bartering self-reliance that’s easily overlooked because
money off my back” it doesn’t trouble to make itself heard over the everyday
static that washes in from
outside. You could hear it,
though, when the deep drifts
of March closed the roads for
a spell: it was in the sounds
of the countryside still at work,
and in the self-containment
of the villages, their clustered
lights surrounded by the
snow and darkness.
If the immediacy of this
connection between labour and
life is a source of the ‘social
cohesion’ cited in a 2008 report
as a reason why this, one of
Britain’s least populous regions,
is also one of its most contented,
then that’s the place to look
for a better understanding of
‘apartness’. And, out here in
the borderlands, you don’t
have to look any farther than
those who work with timber
to find people who put their
backs into their living…
“It’s a lifestyle thing”
… though when there’s a thin
wind blowing, like now, it isn’t
22 GW331 May 2018 www.getwoodworking.com
hard to persuade Dai here to fire up the Trangia stove
in his workshop and make a brew. “I try to do work
when I’m enthusiastic,” he says, “when I’m enjoying
it; it’s generally something I do enjoy, but it’s about
not being pressured into anything.” It is, he explains, a
lifestyle thing – and a life-long thing, too. Dai completed
his forestry bachelor’s degree in 2005, topping up his
HND of ’91, a qualification that not only encompassed
two years of academic work but a sandwich year
working as a student manager – “that was useful; it
taught you how things really work” – and before that
two years related work experience in the Youth Training
Scheme of the ’80s. History doesn’t remember the old
YTS kindly, but Dai’s recollections are more positive: “It
was free education: three months – two six-week blocks
– in college a year, and you didn’t have to pay for that.
It was open to abuse in certain places,” he concedes,
but in a judgement that reflects on current times and
our national need for skills-training, he maintains that
its practical approach, “got your feet on the ground,
and you worked from there.”
For Dai, ’there’ was Northern Ireland, where between
’94 and ’04 he worked in woodland design: “That was
my speciality, getting them funded and done; a lot of
woodlands in Northern Ireland” – 5,000 or 6,000 acres,
he reckons – “have my name on them.” That, he says,
was when the establishment grants to support planting
were ‘moving and shaking’. At the same time, however,
the Forestry Commission was also busy selling off
satellite woods, areas of between 30 and 40 acres
considered too small to be worth the trouble of
managing given that the demand – which in this area
came from the Shotton paper mill (which now uses pulp
from recycled paper), and the board manufacturer,
Kronospan, in Wrexham – was for industrial quantities
of sitka spruce and other softwoods. This in turn called
for the large, monocultural plantations that march
across the mountains, and which can accommodate
big machinery and large-scale production techniques.
While Dai’s family took the opportunity to buy some
of the first tranche of woodland sold by the Forestry
Commission, acquiring four lots of mixed woodlands
of between 26 and 35 acres at around £800/acre,
the continued sale of these lots has led to their
commodification by resellers: “They take blocks of
woodland, say 30 acres,” Dai explains, “divide them
up into four-acre plots, and” – in selling on these parcels,
typically for £5,000-8,000/acre – “effectively take them
out of production. There’s no consistency to [their]
management: one person applies for a clear-fell licence
to harvest their money back, and the [neighbouring]
owners object.”
And it is here, having also worked in private
woodlands in the south of England, and in commercial
forestry in Wales and Sweden, that there comes a certain
parting of the ways for this forester and mainstream
forestry, in which he sees, “a lot of harvesting and
replanting, but not much new planting.” So, while
current management of this vital national resource
sees planting rates falling far short of Government
targets, Dai has scaled his own lifestyle approach to
the management of those 30 or 40 acre-sized woods
– which brings us to the reason why we’re sitting in
his workshop.
A forester who does woodwork
It’s not only because it’s cold enough to favour
tea-drinking over sawmilling, but because – this being
the borderlands – a dropped word in the village pub
about wooden out-buildings set the jungle telegraph
humming, and connected me to our local timber-framing
chap, or as Dai describes himself, our ‘forester who does
some woodwork’.
The wood where the workshop sits is one belonging
to his family and, at 35 acres, wasn’t regarded as terribly
productive in Forestry Commission terms. By Dai’s
yardstick, however, “it’s absolutely corking; it’s one
of the best little woods,” producing, among other things,
the Douglas fir from which Dai’s buildings are framed.
“You don’t have to have shipwright’s skills to do this
sort of thing,” he says, looking around at the workshop’s
10 × 6in timbers and their pegged joints. “It’s artisan-
made; it’s something that a farmer with moderate
woodworking skills would’ve done using local materials
and local people.”
In the same way, then, Dai is taking wind-felled
trees from the wood which, in ones and twos, would
be of little worth if it weren’t for the fact he can add
value by milling them within tens of yards of where
they fall to produce the members for timber-framed
buildings, which, because they’re built locally, avoid
the environmental cost of transportation. “And, if you
want to look at it from the carbon point of view, timber-
framing jobs also lock up the carbon in the wood” –
though, since not wasting means not needing,
the offcuts produced in milling the logs square
are used for firewood.
Dai isn’t setting out to build an empire, mind:
“It’s about more than making a crust. If I advertised
[the timber-framed buildings] I’d have too much
work; instead it’s about getting away from stress,
away from working for other people, and gradually
managing things.”
To illustrate what he means by managing things
gradually, we take off for his own wood – 26 acres
of plantation that crowns a hilltop from where you
can look far into the heart of Wales. It was, Dai explains,
a woodland site that was ancient 600 years ago, when
the hall of Owain Glyndwr – the last Welsh Prince of
Wales – stood in the Cynllaith valley, which is part of the
wood’s view. Once populated with what Dai describes
as ‘bits and bobs’ – oak, elm, ash, hazel, holly, alder,
and birch – it was clear-felled in
the ’60s to pay the death duties
on an estate, and replanted with
a crop of softwoods. Today, the
uniformity of its sitka spruce,
Douglas fir, and larch is only
broken by the scattering of
broadleaves that survived the
felling because they weren’t the
right shape, and – importantly
– some semi-ancient oaks that
have regrown from stumps.
So what’s the plan? “I’ll wait
for some [of the softwood] to
blow down, then replant with Borderlands: where could be better for
broadleaves; eventually, if I live someone with a dog and a taste for
long enough, it’ll return to independence?
something resembling semi-
ancient woodland with all the
age groups represented.”
Letting the wind thin out the
stock is an organic process
and a slow one, unless a storm
breaks through the hardier trees
on the perimeter and levels a
swathe of the more vulnerable
interior. “But it’s never going
to be cleared” – which would be
the quick and commercial way
www.getwoodworking.com GW331 May 2018 23
Solutions Borderlands

Drawboring: off-setting the holes run through the mortise

& tenon joints means that when the oak dowels are driven
in, the halves of the joint are pulled together

Chain mortiser:
handy when you’re
Solid construction: these Douglas fir working with the
jowl posts borrow an English design from large dimensions
Sussex; flaring out from the 10 × 6in posts, of a timber-framed
the perpendicular tenons in their heads building. Heavy-duty
engage in both the tie-beam and wall plate, tactics are applied
making for a very stable joint. “They’re to the tenons, too,
over-engineered in a building of this size; whose cheeks are
I could use smaller section timbers but kerfed with a circular
the proportions wouldn’t look right. Part of saw, the waste is
this is about aesthetics; you need to have then removed not
something that feels strong; something with a chisel but
solid that’s going to last a long time” a hatchet

ABOVE: Tools of the to realise a return, of course – “it’ll be continually by bit,” but, he admits, “it’s always going to be a tad
trade 1: the head of a in trees, what’s called ‘continuous cover forestry’.” difficult.” For while he may have a financial advantage
carpenter’s axe (top) In the meantime, he says, “it’s growing faster than in that his woodlands are paid for, and the machinery
is shaped to allow a I’m using it; I’ll just take what I need.” to work them is to hand, there are still prices to be
hand to hold the very And ’need’ is the operative word there; it’s about paid, especially in a lifestyle like this.
top of the haft and appropriate scale. Back in the rolling tobacco and “The logistics of woodland management are that
use the head as a Trangia meths-scented warmth of the workshop – where you’re working with big lumps of timber and steep
giant plane iron. solar panels feed the deep-cycle batteries powering the banks…” Dai’s now closing on his first half-century
Meanwhile, the rhythmic grinding of the sawmill blade sharpener – Dai of outdoor weathering, and he knows that, in the long
wedgelike head of a explains his borderland philosophy: “I like the idea of run, he’s as vulnerable to the wind as the trees in his
splitting maul (inset) self-reliance, of not having big companies make money woods. “I don’t want to be hefting” – he cocks his head
is designed to spread off my back. If I can trickle along on a sustainable towards the timber-framing members – “for the rest of
the fibres of a log: “It basis…” Is he dropping off the grid, then? “To a degree. my days. I’d like to get into surveying again,” he says,
won’t stick the way The house I’m buying” – Dai’s trading his spot in the “taking an area of woodland, measuring how much
a felling axe can; it village for a view in the hills – “has its own water supply timber is available for sale. It’s a lot of walking…” But
either splits the log, and sewage [plant]; I’ll be using wood for heating, and for a man with a dog and a taste for independence, what
bounces off, or busts” I’m thinking of adding solar panels. I’m sliding into it bit could be better than a stroll in the borderlands? GW

Tools of the trade 2: dressing the Wood-Mizer blades ready for the next Heavy lifting: “The logistics of woodland management are that you’re
day’s milling working with big lumps of timber and steep banks”

24 GW331 May 2018 www.getwoodworking.com

 FINISHING SCHOOL
Choosing a Sanding Sealer.
Sanding Sealers do several important jobs; forming a
seal on the surface of bare wood, filling the open pores
so that less of the top coat is
1 needed to achieve a first class finish.
Also binding any loose fibres in the
wood together and levelling any
invisible irregularities to give the
best base possible for finishing.
Several different sealers available:
1 Cellulose Sanding Sealer is the
2 most popular in our range; it's ideal
for turners as it dries in minutes,
goes on evenly and is compatible
with anything that needs a sealer!
2 For awkward shapes, or where
you just need an easier application,
the aerosol version of Cellulose
Sanding Sealer has all the benefits
3 listed above in a spray can!
3 Shellac Sanding Sealer, a more
traditional product, based on meths
and shellac; slower drying at about
20 minutes it's still popular with
turners and also cabinet makers for
application on larger areas.
Overcoat with wax or Friction
4 Polish.
4 Acrylic Sanding Sealer is water-
based, so no flammability and no
strong smells. It requires two hours
to fully dry; patience is also needed
in application but this will be
rewarded with a great finish. Use
with Acrylic Lacquer, waxes and
5 Friction Polish.
5 The aerosol Acrylic Sanding
Sealer uses different resins to dry
quicker and harder and can be used
with Acrylic Gloss and Satin
Lacquer, Ebonising Lacquer, waxes
and Friction Polish.
More information available from your
local stockists or contact us at:
PO Box 260, Stowmarket, IP14 9BX
Tel: 01473 890118
mailroom@chestnutproducts.co.uk
www.chestnutproducts.co.uk
Improve your furniture making Little boxes
BOXES CONSTRUCTED
WITH FURNITURE MAKER’S
JOINTING TECHNIQUES
As John Bullar shows, box making projects are well suited to a small workshop with
a few good quality tools and an ideal way to demonstrate fine furniture making skills
T
his article is about furniture making
on a miniature scale – I want to give
you an overview of how I go about
making small decorative boxes.
It might be a storage box such as to hold
jewellery, a collection of family mementos,
or else simply an ornamental case made as
a gift. While other types of small wooden
boxes may be made by carving, turning,
bandsaw work and so on, here we will
concentrate on boxes constructed with
furniture maker’s jointing techniques.
Boxes like this are ideal projects for
the furniture maker with a small workshop
and hand tools or small machines, as well
as being good exercises for developing
the precision skills of any maker. They
also happen to be very popular with clients.
Box construction
All furniture joints require careful
preparation, but when working on a small
scale there is proportionately less room for
misalignment or gaps in joints. All the wood
must be prepared to extra precision with
every face, edge and end accurately planed.
1 Here I use a shooting board to guide the
block plane so I can trim the end of a board
precisely true
4 Once glue has been applied to the joints
they are all pressed together while they set,
using lightweight clamps
26 GW331 May 2018 www.getwoodworking.com
A shooting board is a simple jig (generally
made in the workshop), which enables
the end of a wooden board to be trimmed
precisely with a plane (Pic.1). The shooting
board features a shallow rebate along the
front edge for the plane to run in so that
the cutter can cover the full thickness of
the wood.
We previously looked at methods of
cutting dovetail joints in this series last
year (see GW316, March 2017). Unlike
a drawer that is frequently pulled in one
direction, the storage case normally only
has to resist external pressure. This means
the tails may be positioned on the back, front
or sides. Alternatively you can use finger
joints (sometimes called box joints), which
are simpler because they have no tapers.
Whatever joint arrangement you choose,
finish cutting all the joints then ensure
to trial-fit the whole box by partially
engaging them (Pic.2).
Assembling boxes
Once you are happy with the fit of the
joints between the sides, before assembling
2 This compartmentalised case has dovetail
joints cut on the side, front and back panels
5 This arched box lid is ‘coopered’ with a series
of narrow, flat sections, then the ridges are
planed away to ‘fair’ the curve
them you need to make provision for the
lid and base. One of my favourite methods
is to trap the top and bottom panels in
grooves down the sides (Pic.3). By making
the box as a sealed item before separating
the two halves, I can guarantee they will
align perfectly. I include extra space in
the corner joints, allowing the box lid and
base to be sawn apart after the glue has set.
Alternatively, the top and base may be
made as flat panels and fitted later (Pic.4).
Once glue has been applied to the joints they
are all pressed together using lightweight
clamps while they set.
Curved boxes
Sometimes I like to make one or more
surfaces of a box curved to produce a
more flowing design. Curved panels may
be cut out of solid wood, which is simple
but wasteful; steam-bent, which is a bit
unpredictable; or laminated from layers
of veneer, which we will go on to look at.
Another way to form curved panels is
to ‘cooper’ together a series of narrow,
flat ‘staves’ with slightly angled edges,
3 Here I used mitred dovetailed corners and
when the box is assembled the top and bottom
panels are trapped in grooves in the sides
6 To smooth the inner surface of a curved
panel, here I am using a reshaped wooden
block plane
in a similar manner to that of barrel
construction (Pic.5). After gluing up,
the outer surface can then be planed into
a continuous curve using a bench plane.
The inner surface of a curve cannot
be smoothed with a flat plane, so I use
a wooden block plane with a rounded
base and rounded blade (Pic.6).
Once a box is assembled, depending on
the design, it may be necessary to curve
edges to match the surfaces and this is
best done using one of my favourite
hand tools – the spokeshave (Pic.7).

Drawers
A jewellery case or similar boxes can be
constructed as a miniature chest of drawers.
Alternatively, it may combine one or more
drawers with a lidded compartment (Pic.8).
Because of the lightness in weight, any
friction in the sliding of drawers would be
very noticeable, so the drawers and their
openings must fit perfectly in size, as well
as being parallel and smooth. Drawers
incorporated into a box should be made to
zero clearance and then planed at the sides
and edges to make a piston-fit without
tightness or wobble.

Box trays
Boxes like these often house internal
trays, which provide several layers of
storage to keep small items in order.
Each tray can be divided into a number
of compartments of various sizes,
depending on the intended contents.
Trays are joined at the corners with
dovetails or finger joints while partitions are
rebated into the sides with sliding dovetails.
For jewellery, I will sometimes line the
base of a tray, such as with padded velvet.
It is satisfying when an internal tray is
dropped into the open top of a box and floats
there for a second. It then sinks slowly under
its own weight while air is displaced from
beneath. The speed at which it falls in
practice depends on the weight and the
clearance gap for air to pass through.
You can speed it up if need be by drilling
small air release holes in the tray base
(Pics.9 & 10).
Hinges & locks
Hinges for boxes come in many different
patterns, such as conventional butt hinges

7 Here I am using a spokeshave to shape 8 Drawers incorporated into a box need to 9 This tray with compartment separators
the sides to match this box’s curved lid slide smoothly without tightness or wobble features sliding dovetail joints where I have
braced them into the sides

10 Thanks to the piston-fit, when I let go this 11 The makers have designed these knife 12 Before fitting a conventional hinge, I rebate
tray sinks slowly into position as air escapes hinges to be fitted to recessed lids a shallow mortise into the back edge of a box
around it

www.getwoodworking.com GW331 May 2018 27

Improve your furniture making Little boxes
13 To limit its opening to just over 90°, I used
quadrant hinges on the corners of this case
to fit the rear edge, knife or pivot hinges
to fit at the sides, or invisible rebate hinges
such as the Soss type.
Before fitting a conventional butt hinge,
I rebate a shallow mortise into the back
edge of a box, mark out rebates for locks
and hinges with a fine knife, then chop
the edges with a razor-sharp chisel before
paring out the central area (Pics.11 & 12).
Some clients like to have locks fitted either
for tradition or perhaps to keep out children.
It must be admitted that these don’t offer
much security and any serious thief would
likely steal the whole box plus its contents!
Locks are fitted in a similar way to
hinges, although they often require two
or more different depths of rebate. Both
are generally made of brass, which can
be polished up before fitting so as not to
contaminate the surrounding wood. To polish
new brassware, I use very fine grade steel
wood lubricated with a spot of beeswax.
Stops & stays
How far should the lid of a box open?
One possibility is to allow it to swing through
16 On this box I have used conventional hinges with a separate sliding
stay recessed into the side panel. The internal tray uses spline joints
on its corners
28 GW331 May 2018 www.getwoodworking.com
14 In addition to the quadrant hinges
at each corner, I fitted two conventional
hinges to share the weight of the lid
a complete 180° so it rests with the inside
facing upwards.
Traditionally, small brass chains have
sometimes been used as box stays in order
to restrict movement, but I wouldn’t
recommend them because they easily trap
and tangle. A more elegant solution is to
limit the motion to around 95° with a stop
or a stay so the lid rests just beyond vertical.
Options are to use hinges with built-in
quadrant stays (Pics.13 & 14), flap hinges
where the barrel itself is shaped to limit the
angle of travel (Pic.15), or to fit a separate
sliding stay in the box side (Pic.16).
Finishing boxes
A decorative box needs to be suitable for
handling so the surfaces must therefore
be sealed to stay clean. Avoid heavy wax
finishes that come off onn fingers or thick
varnish that runs off edges
ges and clogs up
details and mechanisms.. If you make your
17 I used a semi-matt lacquer on this box, which allows the
natural beauty of the wood figuring to show to best advantage
15 While looking quite conventional these
little Brusso ‘stop-hinges’ incorporate stays,
which limit their movement to 95°
decorative boxes out of fine-grained
hardwood such as maple, walnut or any
of the fruitwoods, then it will respond well
to lacquer (Pic.17). The internals may be left
bare or given the lightest rubbing of lacquer.
Conclusions
Box making projects are well suited to a
small workshop with a few good quality
tools and an ideal way to develop and
demonstrate fine furniture making skills.
As well as providing useful organised storage
they also satisfy a demand for gifts or
presentations. Another added bonus is
that small decorative boxes are always
well received. GW
NEXT TIME
In GW332,
W John will look at the subject
of veneering
 TO ADVERTISE IN

call
Rhona Bolger
01689 869 891
rhona.bolger@mytimemedia.com
h b l

For the most delicate work, combining

precision and a small footprint, this is
the ideal saw for detailed modelling
tasks. Taking up little space and cutting
materials easily up to 8mm, the KS-230
is the modeller’s favourite.
The quick change optional blades cut
everything you need for your hobby – you can
cut precisely on wood, plastic and metals with
the right blade.
At 1.8kg, the KS-230 is light enough to
transport to craft fairs. Perfect for all modellers
and hobbies, it comes with a Super-Cut 58mm
blade with sharpened teeth for clean cuts.

Small is wonderful Optional blades (all 50mm except 28104 at 58mm)

300108 300109 702072
Proxxon’s KS-230 Saw £133.38 Inc.vat Code 300095 PC 28014 PC 28020 PC 28011

Proxxon Code 27006

• 8mm depth of cut using standard 58mm dia. blade
• Fully machined aluminium table top 160 x 160mm Crosscut ‘Super-Cut’ HSS blade for fine cuts Solid carbide for NF
mounted on sturdy ABS base blade for fine work in non ferrous metal and tough materials
• Mitre and rip fence supplied 702073 702074 702075
• 34mm diameter rear dust extraction port PC 28012 PC 28016 PC 28017

• 230V 85W motor, runs at 8,000rpm

For more information or to find a retailer go to

Diamond blade for TCT coarse tooth for TCT fine tooth for
brimarc.com/proxxon or call 03332 406967 hard materials regular work finer work

Prices may be subject to change without notice.

30 GW331 May 2018 www.getwoodworking.com

FEED THE BIRDS
Clint Rose presents an entirely unique design for a bird table,
which includes a series of planters to make it really stand out
I
t was recently my sister’s birthday
and I’d promised to make her a bird
table. Despite being a little late, I got
there in the end! I built this project
completely on the fly, so I will give
approximate measurements for the timber
required and some of the cuts and techniques
I used. I managed to make it entirely from
pallet wood (without counting other small
items such as screws, glue and stain).
To give it a different look, I decided to
add two little planters at different heights;
I also think this might help to camouflage
smaller birds from predators while they are
feeding, or at least that’s what I intended!
I hope you enjoy this project and the
accompanying video can be viewed on
my YouTube channel, details of which
can be found at the end of this article.
TOOLS & MATERIALS REQUIRED
TOOLS
• Pencil and rule
• Combination square
• Rip saw and crosscut saw (table saw
would be easier!)
• Wood chisel - 20mm or so
• Bench plane (or jointer) and block plane
• Mallet
• Clamps
• Brace (or drill) with 8mm bit
• Hand drill (or power drill) with 3mm bit
• Mitre box
• Philips Screwdriver
• Staple gun
• Paintbrush
MATERIALS
• 3 planks of wood: 1,000 × 140 × 20mm
• 2 pieces of wood: 1,000 × 70 × 40mm
• 1 piece of wood: 500 × 40 × 15mm
• 30 × 50mm screws
• 10 × 100mm screws
• 8 × 40mm screws
• 10 × 50mm dowels
• Outdoor wood glue
• Exterior wood treatment (I used stain)
• Landscape material
Making the feeding table
I wanted to give the bird table a bit of a
different look, so I went for a triangular
feeding table. Taking the two planks, I cut
two pieces so they were around 250mm long.
I then jointed the edges with a smoothing
plane and glued them together. The next
day, I planed the surface down flat and cut
the angles. I made sure the smaller end of
the table matched the width of the post.
Pointing the post & attaching
the table
Not wanting the post to look square at
the top, I decided to chamfer the sides
to give it a more finished look. This was
simply a case of drawing identical slopes
on opposite sides and then sawing and
chiselling the waste off. I then finished
the chamfers with a block plane.
Next, I drilled two 8mm holes into the
side of the table – these would connect to
the post. I then drilled the corresponding
holes into the post and glued it together
with dowels, using an exterior wood glue.
Where you position the table is an entirely
PALLET SAFETY
For some great tips on how to tell whether
or not your pallet is safe for reuse, see
www.1001pallets.com/pallet-safety
2 Jointed with the hand plane
www.getwoodworking.com GW331 May 2018 31
Bird table with planters Project
personal preference, but I decided to position
mine about 300mm from the top of the post.
Attaching the brace & table sides
Knowing that the glue and dowels wouldn’t
be sufficient to hold the table up in the long
term, I decided to make a simple brace. Using
a mitre box, I cut a 45° angle on one end of
a piece of wood followed by a 45° angle at the
other end. This piece was about 250mm long
or so. I then drilled a 3mm hole at each end
and attached it with two screws, making
sure to keep the table at 90° to the post
while doing so.
To keep the seed and bird food from
blowing away in the wind, I added two side
pieces. This was simply a case of ripping
two small bits of wood, matching their angles
with the table and the post, before screwing
them in place.
1 Marking up for the cut
3 Gluing the planks together
Project Bird table with planters
4 Marking the base
7 The first two chamfers can be sawn...
10 A brace and bit is used to drill dowel holes
Making & attaching the roof
This was a tricky part and much of it I
did without any planning (like many of
13 Drilling the pilot holes for the screws
32 GW331 May 2018 www.getwoodworking.com
5 The base once cut to size 6 Marking up the post for the chamfers
8 ... and the rest completed with a chisel 9 Finding the location for the base
11 The base dowelled and glued in place 12 Using a mitre box to get 45° angles on
the brace
my projects), so forgive my hazy directions! to make the very top of the roof and also
Taking the planks again, I cut two pieces attach it to the existing pieces. I took a scrap
around 250mm long and chamfered the of pallet wood and chamfered its face into a
front and side edges. I then cut a truss- point to allow water to run off when it rains.
shaped piece to screw to the post, which I drilled a pilot hole at the back end and
the roof components would then screw proceeded to screw it into the back truss.
into. The pitch and position of the roof are I then drilled a hole at the front end and
completely up to you – everyone will have began to drill a 100mm screw down through
their own preference. I pilot holed the two the top roof piece and into the front truss.
roof pieces and continued to screw them When the screw touched the front truss,
in place into each of the trusses.
Once done, I decided to make a front truss
piece from one of the planks. I then pilot holed
the roof items again and put two screws from
each roof piece into the front truss. This
immediately afforded the structure more
rigidity. The next step was to make a kind
of beam to keep the roof from flopping
around. I cut a smaller piece of wood to
around 140mm; this was the correct length
for my particular roof, to ensure it was
straight, and also to make it look more
pleasing to the eye. I put two screws through
the bottom of the table and into the beam.
Things then got a little trickier, as I needed 14 Two screws are put into the brace

15 The brace attached to the base and post
18 Clamping the sides and screwing them on
21 Marking out the back truss
24 Marking up the front truss
16 Two small lengths, cut and planed to size
19 Marking out the roof pieces
22 Screwing on the back truss
25 The front truss once cut out
I took it out and drilled down through the
roof piece and into the front truss by a small
amount. This made it easier for the screw
to pass through and also into the beam,
thus securing the roof to the truss and
then to the beam.
Making & attaching the planters
Of course, if you don’t want planters on your
bird table then you can completely skip this
step. Using the planks, I cut a piece of wood
to 120mm and attached it to the post with
www.getwoodworking.com GW331 May 2018 33
Project
17 Lining up to mark the pilot holes
20 Two of the roof pieces once cut out
23 The roof pieces once screwed in place
on the back truss
26 Screwing the roof pieces into position on
the front truss
dowels, in the same manner as I did with
the table. I then cut another piece at around
100mm and attached it to the post with
dowels at a right angle to the first piece. It
was then just a case of screwing in two other
pieces to make a square-shaped planter.
For the bottom pieces, I just attached
four screws to the bottom inside areas of
the planter walls, screwed in about halfway.
I then cut a piece of plank that would fit
inside the planter walls and rest on top
of the screws.
Project Bird table with planters
27 Attaching the roof support
28 A final roof piece attached to the top
30 Gluing up the planter sides
35 Marking up the joint
34 GW331 May 2018 www.getwoodworking.com
Making & attaching the feet
I planed down a thicker piece of pallet wood
and cut it into two equal lengths of 500mm.
I then used a combination square to mark
halfway down the thickness of each item.
After finding the two centrelines, I was able
to mark the width of the pieces.
I sawed down each side of the cuts and
then made some relief cuts all the way along
the joint. Using a chisel, I took out all the
waste and then slotted the two pieces
together. Next, I chamfered the ends and
edges to make it more pleasing to the eye.
29 Lining up dowel holes
31 Screwing the other two sides in place
33 The planter base once cut out
36 Chiselling out the waste
Turning the pieces upside down, I then
marked where the post would go and drilled
five more pilot holes. I could then screw in
five 100mm screws until they were protruding
a few millimetres above the surface. I was
then able to use the points of the screws to
mark points on the bottom of the post, which
is where I would drill further 3mm pilot holes.
At this point, I could now drive all of the
screws in. I was going to add some angled
braces from each foot to the post, but as
it was sturdy enough already, I chose not
to – I also think it looks better without them.
32 Using clamps to hold the sides steady
34 Finding the centre
37 The finished joint
Painting & fitting
the landscape material
I used a water-based stain to treat the
wood as I’ve been told that it’s not harmful
to wildlife. After the treatment was applied
I took some landscape material and stapled
it to the sides of the planters, cutting off the
excess with a pair of scissors.
Fill the planters & the table
You’re now ready to move the bird table
to a desired spot in your garden and add
a couple of plants of your choosing. I went
38 The pieces are then slotted together
39 Screwing the feet to the post
40 All finished and ready to stain
to a local garden centre and picked a grass
for the top planter and a kind of trailing/
hanging plant for the bottom. Of course,
you can choose whichever types you like.
The great thing about this bird table is that
FURTHER INFO
as you’re making it, you can tweak the roof If you’d like to see extra photos and videos
position, table shape, planter position and of Clint’s projects as well as what happens
shape to fit your own personal tastes. Being in and around his workshop, then give the
made from pallet wood, I’m not sure it will Timber Anew Facebook page a like, and to
last a lifetime, but the wood was free, it took see a video of this project being made as
one weekend of my time to make, the design well as others, visit his YouTube channel:
is unique to me, and at the end of the day, www.youtube.com/timberanew
I find that incredibly satisfying. GW
41 The complete bird table, all planted up
www.getwoodworking.com GW331 May 2018 35
TW SMPJ TW DMPJ
TW 7PHJ TW AJ
 USELESS
OBJECTS
Edward Hopkins makes three of
them and finds that they aren’t
HOLDING THE FORT
The fort is a bit of nonsense with no known function
or purpose. Except, as soon as I’ve said that, I want to
contradict myself. Perhaps it is not as significant as a
dining table, but nevertheless it embodies an amount
of design. That design produces feeling and attitude.
The fort says something. It is easy to read now that
it is finished, but along the way there were several
judgements to be made, any one of which would have
produced something slightly different. All judgements
had to speak together, with one voice. It’s the same
for any design. Every element must be considered
and incorporated in the whole.

38 GW331 May 2018 www.getwoodworking.com

 Home Truths Woodworker’s journal

The turret (and the window, and the door)

on the right is slightly wider than that on the
left. It is important to set up the mortiser
precisely but it is surprisingly difficult to centre
it: you think you have it, then you don’t

I’m a kid at heart. We probably all are. I like castles

with their ridiculous romantic associations. Reality
was much blunter, but we ignore that. Horses, maidens,
leather tankards, real swords, open fires and lutes:
this is why so many people spend summer weekends
at re-enactment fairs. If you’re not one of them, don’t
knock it. It’s not nurdishness, but an alternative way
of living (if with many modern conveniences). Anyway,
I don’t. I just thought I’d say. There’s something about
a fort.
What do you have to do to a lump of wood to turn
it into a fort? Well, it depends on the scale. A complete
castle with curtain walls and ancillary buildings could
be represented by simple rectangular blocks because
it’s not the individual edifices that matter but the
relationship between them. We see Caernarvon
Castle and are not deterred by the lack of detail.

1 Rip, plane, plane square and thickness strips. Cut to
length. Keep substandard pieces for testing settings
Creating crenulations
Come closer and what stands out? Crenulations.
These alone say fort, or fortified wall. Next, windows.
Old style windows with some sort of military function.
Arrow slits work well (one little hole drilled above the
other and joined by a routed vein). So do embrasures.
And what about the door? How big is that? What does
a big door say? ‘Welcome!’ A corbel layer indicating
floor levels is refreshingly horizontal, and that’s about
it. Any smaller detail would be fussy.
Cutting the crenulations is simple and effective.
I set up the mortiser over a piece of ply cut to an
angle as a jig (Pic.3), with left to right stops set on
the carriage. The same cut on each of the four faces
produces not only corner turrets/crenulations, but
a pitched roof as well! A flat roof would have worked
but not so successfully, for this pitched roof is
architecturally accurate. Also, the four sloping cuts are
a lot cleaner to produce than a meeting of horizontal
planes. And the resultant shape is more interesting.

2 Chamfer all round. This gets rid of the furry bits that might
get in the way of precise stopping. It has to be done
sometime and is best done now. If it was done after the
crenulations, they would be likely to fray. Use a router set in
a table
3 Take time to centre the mortiser on the blank. Once set,
leave it alone for the whole process. Here a simple jig holds
the timber at an angle so that crenulations and a roof are
cut in one process

www.getwoodworking.com GW331 May 2018 39

Woodworker’s journal Home Truths
4 Not a perfect process, but not bad
The windows provide the most conversation. I’ve tried
through-mortises and been unhappy with raggedness
of cut. Round headed recesses look good but are fiddly
to produce. One of my guiding principles is ease of
production (and everything else). I don’t want to chisel
5 Using the mortiser as a drill press/milling machine, set a
depth stop and rout out the doorway
40 GW331 May 2018 www.getwoodworking.com
out corners by hand because this is where my human
error will be conspicuous. I want fool-proof repetitive
procedures in which every source of error, however tiny,
has been eliminated. The easiest neatest windows would
be circular ones drilled with a new lip and spur bit. This,
however, would have produced an architectural curiosity
like a medieval dovecote or a regency garden folly. Nice
enough in their own right but not, um, a fort.
Return to through-mortises
I went back to through-mortises. By themselves they
look crude, then I realised I could slice in an embrasure,
giving the window added function and character (Pic.7).
It took a couple of hours from a standing start to work
this out, but having done so, it is quite simple. Just make
sure that the slanting cut of the embrasure doesn’t foul
the ceiling of the windows.
The doorway is clearly important. Get the right size,
the right depth giving a hint of openness, and the fort
becomes a gatehouse, inherently inviting. The last
touches were the horizontal cuts indicating floor levels.
Interesting (possibly) you might say, but what’s the
point? The point is delight. I made 19 of these. I haven’t
gone through them all yet but I think there are more
than a dozen good ones. They will all benefit from a
going-over with abrasive paper, and a coat of wax.
Then what? Little gifts. Grandchildren (mine and
other people’s) are obvious candidates for downloading.
But adults too. I’ve just had an appointment with a
professional who is providing me with good supportive
help. I gave her one. Her face brightened up: she was
clearly pleased. ‘Does it have a meaning?’ she asked.
‘It’s a watchtower’ I told her. ‘Will it bring me luck?’
she smiled. ‘Yes!’ I replied (because if she looks for it,
she will find it). How much less useless could a piece
of wood be?
STATING THE OBELISK
Next on my list of uselessness was the obelisk. I don’t
understand obelisks. I don’t like them much. They look
pompous, self-important and victorious. They might be
alright in Egypt, but here they epitomise (to me) the
worst aspects of the British Empire, plonked unavoidably
on hill tops, and at the end of avenues for all to see and
be intimidated by.
They are powerful in an unelaborate primal assertive
way (they are not phallic unless yours is a very different
6 With a hollow chisel, pierce over halfway through on all
four sides to create the upper windows. Elongate the
mortise so that it can tramp from side to side, stepping
down
shape to mine). They make a point. The point is the
pyramidion – the miniature pyramid capstone (though The completed obelisk
not a separate piece, as obelisks are made from the
solid). I think I’ve just answered my own question.
The point of an obelisk is to raise a pyramid in the air
for us all to remember, and be in awe of. It’s landscape
punctuation. It’s to make the garden look nice. And, in
this case, the mantelpiece. You can’t get away from it.
Wherever you put it and however big it is, an obelisk is
proud, and you, if it’s your obelisk, are proud too. So I
still don’t like them, but I’m going to make one anyway.

A question of representation
Other obelisks represent something. They’re some
type of memorial. Mine would represent nothing but
itself. For this I needed the most characterful timber:
the obelisk wouldn’t work in softwood unless it were
4ft high (a tantalising thought!). I had some holm oak
from 20 years ago. Heavy stuff. Visually beautiful. The
main feature wherever it features, so where better than
here? My obelisk would be a memorial to nothing more
pompous and nothing less grand than timber itself.
Already I felt better.
Bandsawing the sloping sides was fine. Smoothing
these cuts by one pass over the planer was almost OK:
this is hard timber and though I tried to maintain an
even pass, where I hesitated, to change my grip, I later
found marks in the timber. They appeared to be deeper
indents (as you’d expect) but I spent a few hours sanding
and scraping, and they wouldn’t disappear. I decided in
the end that the planer knives spinning in one spot had
heated up the oils in the timber and it was these marks
that resolutely remained. I could be talking rubbish,
I don’t know. Either way, the marks were annoying
and I hope they fade.
Cutting moulded strips to go in the rebates so as
to give definition and proportion to the obelisk was the
least satisfactory part of the whole job. So far it was all
looking neat. Now a degree of slip and shift came in. It’s
a shame. For this obelisk to be as awesome as it can be,
it has to be precisely made as if of jade or onyx. If I did
a batch of these, I’d rout those rebates in, not saw
them. This would be more accurate, and then I’d size
the moulded strips to a snug fit. When I glued the strips
into the rebates, I used the vice to touch the faces in
parallel, this way and that, until a good compromise
was reached.

7 Go back to the jig used for the roof, and slice 8 Score in the floor levels. A mitre saw fitted with a
an embrasure on the windows trenching stop works well. Clean up with abrasives and file

www.getwoodworking.com GW331 May 2018 41

Woodworker’s journal Home Truths

CHEOPSAWING*
(*Sorry: best I could do.) This is not a model of the Great
Pyramid of Giza, it’s just a pyramid. But again I want
to correct myself. I’m not going to go all-Glastonbury
on you, but there’s no such thing as ‘just’ a pyramid.
Pyramids have something special. They are something
special. They are geometrically and architecturally
pure; archetypal, essential.
A model of a pyramid (cut to a convenient 45°) would
be good enough, but this, Ladies and Gentlemen, takes
the process one step further and opens up, before your
very eyes, the wonder of mathematics, the wonder of
music, and the wonder that they are both the same!
Here, Ladies and Gentlemen, the pyramid is taken apart 9 Find your timber. Machine it square. Make strips that will
into 36 blocks so that you can become the builder and form the mouldings
the sculptor. No longer are you sold a work of art that
comes as a finished product. You can change this from
day to day. Express yourself! Interact! Enter the world drawn back to themselves as if magnetised. Not every
of Khufu, and see what you make of it! One word of rearrangement is beautiful but many are. 64 blocks work
warning: though the pyramid has an educational as even better; 100 is a bit much: stick to even numbers
well as a fun value, it is not suitable for small or reckless squared or the centre piece will be a little pyramid
children because some pieces end in sharp points. itself and will stand apart in most rearrangements.
Rearrange the 36 blocks symmetrically or haphazardly,
however you do it, there is something satisfying about Easy pyramids
the result. It’s as if the purity of the pyramid cannot And it’s easy! If you have a good saw. My mitre saw does
be dissolved. It has been exploded, and the pieces well. You have to start with square stock (obviously),
thereafter it is careful slicing with the saw slewed over
at 45°. Then it all depends on how fussy you’re being.
What’s your scale? My blocks were 2in square and
peppered with burrs, many of which did not plane up
well: they were never going to become marble. Anyway,
I couldn’t rely on them. The wood was dry but it would

The completed pyramid

42 GW331 May 2018 www.getwoodworking.com

10 Run a concave moulding down the edges 11 Cut the capstone, the pinnacle, while the 12 Cut the rebates for the moulding while the
of the strips. Produce more than you think workpiece is still rectilinear blank is still square
you’ll need

dry further. A square section will dry as a parallelogram

or, if you’re unlucky, a trapezoid. But not a square. There
will be slop. Best accept it.
You don’t want the blocks so tightly packed into the
stand that they weld themselves together. So loosen-up.
It’s easier said than done. Too loose and you’ve lost it,
not least because a well packed block of blocks supports
itself, and this is good. If the blocks are contained in
a slack fashion, they’ll exhibit slack nature.
You can be too good. If the blocks sit in the stand too
snuggly, you may not be able to get them out (without
turning the pyramid upside down and smacking it on
the underside, which you really don’t want to do). The
answer is a finger hole drilled in the baseplate so that
the centre pieces can be pushed up and gripped. GW

13 Now stop it being square. A piece of MDF has a slanting fence screwed to it. The
workpiece is held against the fence; the MDF base is held against the bandsaw fence
and the whole lot slowly slid through the blade. I took first cuts only three-quarters of
the way through so as to keep the block square for as long as possible. It wasn’t really
necessary. The final parting cut meant keeping the plinth squarely on the worktable,
but that was no problem

14 The capstone was cut on the mitre saw. Here it is being

finished by the delicate slicing of a guillotine. I used the 36 placings; 5 different shapes (16 of one, 8 of another; 4 of three different ones)
offcuts from the bandsaw to ensure the correct position of each with four (rotational) positions, gives a total number of permutations of the
the workpiece. I spent far too long scraping (this is hard pyramid pieces, according to a statistician friend of mine, of approximately twelve
timber), then I fitted those fiddly bits of moulding thousand, nine hundred and eleven billion billion billion billion!

www.getwoodworking.com GW331 May 2018 43

 Letters & Makers

LETTERS & MAKERS

TH
LETTER OF THE MON
TURNING A DJEMBE DRUM
Hello Tegan,
Please could you forward these questions to Barrie Scott in reference
REDISCOVERING WOODWORKING to his interesting article on Djembe drums (see GW328) as I’ve been
thinking about turning my own version. However, I need to know
answers to the following:
1. How are the outsides of the drums made in West Africa?
They look smooth and I wonder if they are turned in some way?
2. How are the skins strung and tightened, or is there a good
website link/book to show how it’s done?
Thanks for your help, Gordon Cookson

Matt’s low garden bench was An 8 × 10 shed is where Matt’s
made using joinery grade redwood woodworking takes place
Hi Tegan,
I retired a couple of weeks ago and for some time I’ve been planning
to take up woodworking as a hobby. The only woodworking I’d done
previously was at school in the 1970s, but I used to enjoy it back then.
Here is my first attempt. I used redwood to make the bench and
painted it using Cuprinol Garden Shades. I wanted to use joinery grade
timber so that I could make sure I was starting with square edges,
but that meant the cost was very high (over £100 just for the wood).
There are things I will do differently next time as throughout the
process I purchased new tools and machinery to allow me to be able
to do it easier and better in future. My old Bosch jigsaw, circa early
‘90s, has now been joined by a nice new bandsaw from Axminster,
which will make cutting out templates more accurate. My workshop
is a 8 × 10 shed, so trying to build the two-seater in such a small space
was challenging! There are loads of machines that I would like to add
(such as a planer/thicknesser so I can buy cheaper timber), but I really
haven’t got room. My next mod will be to fit castor wheels to my table
saw so that I can move it out of the way when not in use. I also have
a lovely pillar drill but it will only fit in the apex of the roof, so I’ll build
another bench across the back for it and slide the table saw
underneath when not in use. I have two LED strip lights in the shed
and am really impressed with the light they give out. No matter where
I stand, it doesn’t cast a shadow over my workpiece. My eyesight isn’t
so good nowadays so that’s important.
You can’t see it in the photo but on the left-hand side are racks that
are currently filled with offcuts from my hardwood flooring. None of
them is longer than about 2ft, but I’m convinced I’ll find a use for them!
Hello Gordon and thanks for your interest in my recent article. There’s
quite a lot of approaches to making a Djembe, but this link – http://
pdgood.us/handdrum/djembe.html – shows a very different method
of constructing the body, and if you scroll down the page you will note
the stringing of the instrument is shown in quite a useful way. Much
of the online material focuses on restringing, but this chap starts
from scratch. It is clearly quite a complex process.
Regarding your question about the finish on the exterior, the makers
I met at Brikhama do just about all the operations using a selection
of adzes. The shaping of the exterior, and the clean finish you noted,
is also done with an adze. Their skills are awesome, which was my
main interest in conducting the article. It is a sustainable, lo-tech,
highly specialised style of working. Decorative features are made
using a mallet and gouge. Another interesting website can be
found here: www.african-drumming.co.uk/djembe-making.html.
I regret I cannot give any advice on turning one on a lathe as I have
no turning skills myself. I don’t doubt it’s possible, but it would seem
that a hefty machine would be needed. The best way would be to
visit Brikhama market yourself if you’re able; I imagine one of the
craftsmen there would happily show you how it’s done.
Best regards, Barrie Scott
NEW FLEXIBLE CURVE ROUTING
GUIDE TEMPLATE ACCESSORY
An 8mm thick mini flexible curve used to make templates,
enabling a shape to be cut repeatedly with precision.
p Used in conjunction with a self-guided
cutter, a router or router table.
p Alternatively a standard cutter can be
used when guided with a guide bush.
p Includes fixing screws.

They are engineered boards with a lovely oak facing on one side and Product Ref. Length Price
ply underneath. Maybe other readers have found a use for them? CURV/8X500 500mm £32.40 INC
VAT

I’ve also recently bought a new Bosch router and Trend router table. CURV/8X1000 1000mm £62.40 INC
VAT

I’ve never used a router before and am loving it, but I’ve only got two
cutters so far.
www.trend-uk.com
I also forgot to mention how much I enjoy the magazine. I received a enquiry@trendm.co.uk
subscription as a present from my daughter and can’t wait for the new 01923 249911
edition every month. I’m collecting them as each one has something
in it that I will want to build in the future. Top of the list for the summer
is Phil Davy’s garden gate, which appeared a couple of issues ago.
Regards, Matt Russell

Hi Matt, thanks so much for sharing your story with us –

WRITE & WIN!
We always love hearing
hear about your projects, ideas, hints and
it’s fantastic to hear how you’ve rediscovered a love of tips, and/or like to receive feedback about GW’s features,
woodworking after all these years. Your garden bench is so do drop us a lin
line – you never know, you might win our
wonderful and I particularly like the low design – it looks great ‘Letter of the Month’ prize, currently the new Trend
very comfortable indeed. I love the colour you’ve chosen too. 1
⁄4in 30-piece
30-p Router Cutter Set, worth over £100.
I really hope our star letter prize of the Trend 30-piece Router Simply email tegan.foley@mytimemedia.
S
Cutter Set will be a worthwhile addition to your collection of com for a chance to get your hands
c
new tools, and we hope your enthusiasm for this enjoyable on this fantastic prize – good luck!
o
pastime continues to grow and grow!

44 GW331 May 2018 www.getwoodworking.com

READERS’ HINTS & TIPS
For the next 12 issues, in conjunction with Veritas and BriMarc Tools & Machinery, we’re giving one lucky reader per month the chance to
get their hands on a fantastic low-angle jack plane, worth over £250! Ideal for shooting mitres, working end-grain and initial smoothing,
this must-have hand tool also features a combined feed and lateral adjustment knob for fast, accurate changes to depth of cut. To be in
with a chance of winning this fantastic piece of kit, just email your top workshop hint or tip to tegan.foley@mytimemedia.com, and if
you can, please also attach a photo illustrating your tip in action. Good luck! To find out more about Veritas tools, see www.brimarc.com
Small vice-held table
NEW-FOR-OLD ROUTER TABLE
When space is at a premium, few
enthusiasts can fit in an unlimited number
of free-standing machines, even if they can
afford to buy them. I know there are router
tables on the market that can fold away,
but they still require floor-space when in
use. About 30 years ago, I came up with a
solution that has served me reasonably well
until now. I built a rigid L-shaped table from
a double thickness of 20mm ply that could
be clamped in the vice on my bench. A solid
metal plate was recessed into the top and
a slot cut for a mitre fence. This was a great
leap forward (for me) as long as I stuck to
using cutters of up to about 25mm – but
it did have its limitations. When it was in
situ, I lost the use of my vice and the most
useful end of the bench. Initially, I only
had a small 6mm router and if I wanted to
rout something off the table, I had to take
everything apart. I then acquired another
router, again 6mm capacity, and that solved
the problem – for a while, anyway.
Creating my own solution
However, once I had the luxury of a 12mm
router, I found a major limitation in my table
was the lack of ability to use larger diameter
cutters. Of course, being human, I only
discovered this after I had bought them.
The problem was that the steel plate could
not accept interchangeable inserts and
if I had merely enlarged the hole, some
of the smaller items being routed may
have headed down the hole for Australia.
However, in 2018, we are spoiled for
choice and I did consider buying an
off-the-shelf router table, but I do like
creating my own solutions. There was also a
bonus: I’m a great Bosch fan and my 12mm
router is the one that comes with two bases:
one for plunging and the other, fixed. This
meant that I wouldn’t have to demount the
Small router table in bench vice Small table held in bench vice
fixed base from the router table – ever! YouTube. I finished the fence, set in the
I bought a JessEm table insert with a two parallel fence tracks and all worked
100mm diameter hole that takes different well, so I began to design the cowling for
diameters of bung, some aluminium the dust extraction. Anybody who has
tracking and a kit of knobs and T-bolts to routed without extraction knows the pain
make an up-to-date version of my old table. of subsequent clean-up, but luckily I found
Then I had an idea. I have a Hegner lathe a cowl fitting in my workshop which was
and comparatively rarely require it for an exact fit, snugly capturing both the
cabinetmaking, so, I designed the part of outside and internal diameters of my
the ‘L’ to fit reasonably snugly between the Axminster extractor hose. A simple box
bed bars of the lathe and, of course, it can structure fitted to the rear of the fence
still be clamped in the vice if I wish. The and it was time for a maiden flight.
beauty is that when it’s on the lathe, I have
access to the whole bench and vice versa, Mess-free routing
and when not in use, it can be stacked away. No, not so fast. I still hadn’t fitted the
second Bosch base to the underside of
Into design mode the JessEm plate. However, that done it
So, on with the thinking cap and into design was in with the router body, in with a cutter,
mode. I had some 25mm-thick MDF and an on with the extractor and hey presto!
offcut of wet bathroom wall left over from Dust-free, chip-free, mess-free routing.
an installation. I used the combination of I still had to design and make my bespoke
these two materials for both the table and mitre fence, but that is now well under way.
the fence. I had cut and shaped the wet Ken Mackinnon
wall top to the exact size I wanted for the
finished table, but left the MDF base proud
all round. Using a top bearing template
cutter, I machined the MDF flush with the
table top. I made a template from 20mm
MDF and, using an appropriate insert bush
in the router, machined the recess for the
JessEm insert and, using a jigsaw, cut away
the centre to enable the fitting of the router
base to the insert. Then it was a simple rout
using a micro-adjustable side-fence to cut
the slot into which fits the aluminium mitre
track. The fence design called for some
thought, not least to ensure that the table
locking knobs did not foul the sliding
section knobs. I decided on MDF for stability
and was very careful with the settings on
my Kity table saw to ensure to get the right
angles ‘right’. I got the idea for the fence
lower sliding sections (to open up/close Large lathe-mounted table showing mitre
up the gap depending on cutter size) from and extraction
www.getwoodworking.com GW331 May 2018 45
Centrefold Unique chest of drawers
‘CHEVRON’
Chest of drawers
Andrew Lawton’s latest exhibition piece, made using solid blackbean,
is a contemporary British piece of furniture made from a very rare material
F
or his latest exhibition piece, Andrew has created a chest of
drawers from solid blackbean, a rich, beautiful hardwood,
somewhat similar in appearance to walnut, but denser,
harder and heavier. Blackbean has not been exported from
its native Australia since the 1970s, but Andrew acquired four
planks, 2,400 × 170 × 75mm, from a long-retired maker who was
selling off his remaining stocks; this is a rare, possibly unique
chance, to own a contemporary British piece of furniture made
from this material.
The design
The design, intended to provide plenty of useful storage space
with a small footprint, has existed in Andrew’s sketchbook for
several years. The chevron-shaped sides follows one of his
favourite themes, which he has used on a number of pieces,
beginning with his ‘Chevron’ desk of ripple sycamore, designed
and made in 1993. “I had thought of using English walnut, but
when I got hold of the blackbean, I realised that not only the
colour and grain, but also the dimensions of the planks would
be ideal for this project,” says Andrew.
Stages of making
The first stage in the making of this piece was to prepare a
full-size drawing showing the front and side elevations and plan,
drawn in pencil on a sheet of MDF. Any changes to the dimensions
and detailing were then made; looking at a full-size drawing from
the normal viewing position can often suggest changes and
improvements, which aren’t always obvious on a drawing on
paper or computer screen. Each of the planks were examined
and the one with the most interesting grain was chosen for the
drawer fronts and carcass top; the less highly figured boards
supplied material for the sides. The full width drawer rails are
of ash with 50mm wide blackbean lippings and are in effect
shelves on which the drawers slide, since the grain all runs in
the same direction and any movement will be in the same plane.
Each side of the two carcass sides is built up from six individual
staves, which are tapered in the length as well as shaped to a 30°
ANDREW LAWTON
Andrew creates furniture that is fit for purpose,
of high quality materials throughout and using the
best constructional methods for the job, with the
joints themselves forming a decorative element of
the design where appropriate. Much of his work
has a geometric rather than organic feel, which
is partly a result of his fascination with Art Deco
and Modernist architecture.
Most of his work is made to commission, but
he also makes several speculative pieces each
year to offer for sale at exhibitions and directly
from his small showroom.
Enquires are invited for any single item or room
scheme that requires distinctive and individual Carcass glue-up. Note the cauls or cramping blocks,
handling, for private homes, corporate clients which spread the pressure of the cramps, and the
and public buildings. To find out more, see MDF boards prevent the apexes of the chevrons
www.andrewlawton.co.uk from being crushed
46 GW331 May 2018 www.getwoodworking.com
bevel. This was quite an exacting operation and with the aid
of a jig was done on the bandsaw, planer/thicknesser and
tilt-arbor sawbench, followed by careful hand planing with
a Record No.7 try plane. The butt joints were also shot by
hand and biscuit jointed for accurate alignment. The main
carcass joints are housed stopped (blind) mortise & tenons.
“The blackbean proved relatively easy to work with both
machines and hand tools, considering its density and in
places, rippled and interlocked grain,” says Andrew,
“it is, however, slightly oily so as a precaution, all joints
were degreased with cellulose thinners before assembly.”
After the carcass had been glued up and set aside for the
adhesive to set (Titebond Original), the internal faces were
carefully checked with an engineer’s straightedge to ensure
that every surface was dead flat and that the carcass was not
narrower at the back than the front. The accuracy of the interior
of a carcass is vital if the drawers are to run smoothly and truly
and time spent here always pays off. Quartersawn sycamore
was chosen for the drawer sides and backs, which provides
an attractive colour contrast to the blackbean, with cedar of
Lebanon used for the bottoms. The dovetails, as in all Andrew’s
drawers, are cut by hand. The drawer pulls are of oak, which has
been ebonised by the application of vinegar in which old steel
screws have been left to soak for a few days.
Finding the right finish
Deciding on an appropriate finish can sometimes be a challenge
but in this case it was felt that, in view of the oily nature of the
blackbean, Danish oil would be the best, and it has indeed brought
out all the richness and varieties of shades of the wood while
providing adequate surface protection. The drawer sides and
backs were finished with clear wax and the bottoms left bare,
so that the scent of the cedar is not impeded.
The dimensions of the finished piece are 1,350mm high ×
550mm wide × 410mm diameter. The carcass back is of sycamore
veneer on an MDF core and is slotted into a groove before being
secured with brass screws. GW
Carcass top offered
up dry to check
the fit of the joints
Carcass mortises
before the housing
was worked
www.getwoodworking.com GW331 May 2018 47
Understanding timber Sheet materials & composite boards
LEARNING ABOUT
PANEL PRODUCTS
Peter Bishop looks at how manufacturing
processes and techniques have developed
to utilise wood, as well as the classifications
of sheet materials and composite boards
A
s manufacturing techniques
improve, year on year, we see
a wide variety of new manmade
wood products coming onto the
market. This is partly driven by the need
to utilise wood, as a raw material, in more
efficient ways, partly to produce products
SOME COMMON CLASSIFICATIONS
INT Interior use
MR Moisture and moderately
weather-resistant
BR Boil-resistant
WBP Weather and boil-proof
48 GW331 May 2018 www.getwoodworking.com
that meet a specific need and partly
to generate profit for the commercial
manufacturing companies involved.
Sheet materials and composite boards are
broadly split into three main classifications:
particleboards, fibreboards and laminated
boards. I’ll try to describe the main features
Obviously for interior use only. It is likely that
not only the bonder but also the wood itself
is not that durable
The boards with this classification will stand
moderate exposure to cold water and damp
conditions but will not withstand hot, wet
applications
Although the binders in these panels may
have been tested for boil resistance, it is likely
that they might fail under prolonged exposure
The binders used for these panels are most
suitable for external use under most conditions,
and the timbers in WBP panels are less durable
than the binders
of each, some of the interesting variations,
and other information about usability, etc.
One thing for sure is that there is probably
a board out there, somewhere, which will
perfectly meet your project making needs.
Apart from the make of the board,
content or structure, the other key factor
is the binder used to hold it all together.
Historically, animal and vegetable glues
were used for the construction of interior
grade plywood. That is why woodworm
damage is seen on the backs of some older
pieces of furniture; they love the taste!
Most panel products are currently
manufactured using synthetic resins of
some form or other. Laminated boards,
especially plywood, will generally drop into
one of the four classifications shown in the
table below. Particleboards and fibreboards
are manufactured in standard or MR,
moisture/moderately weather-resistant
grades; however, there are exterior qualities
of both produced for specific applications.
When determining what and where, you
should try to match the use to the
manufacturer’s guidelines.
PARTICLEBOARDS
Particleboards
Particleboards can be made up from a range
of cellulose base materials other than wood.
These include fibres from flax, sugar cane
residues and waste bark. The boards are
made up by a process that mechanically
produces fibre particles of various sizes. This
mash of loosened fibres is then combined
with a resin binder, extruded out into flat
sheets and subjected to a high temperature
pressing process that forms the board. These
UK chipboard
boards are generally fairly light weight
and may, for example, be used for notice
boards or cheap partition sheathing.
Chipboard
Chipboard is generally made up from
sawmill residues, wood waste and forest
thinnings and is an ideal way to maximise
the use of wood. The particles of wood, hard
or soft, are produced through a chipping
process that then grades them by size.
Chipboard is made up with the larger
particles concentrated in the central core
and the smaller, finer ones on the outer
faces. The result produces a board that
can be used ‘as is’ or be faced on both sides
with veneers and other materials. There
are a number of manufacturing variations
that produce chipboards with an evenly
coarse texture and with finer surfaces.
Chipboard use will depend upon the
manufacturing process, the wood content,
and the resin binders. Some boards will be
specifically remanufactured after production
to produce items such as flooring. Although
it can be produced for external use, it’s best
used internally or in protected, less harsh
external locations. Any increase of moisture
tends to result in a swelling of the panel
that eventually leads to a breakdown of the
structure. It has been a favourite flooring
material with T&G edges covered by
underlay and carpet.
Orientated Strand Board
Orientated Strand Board (OSB) is made
up in a similar way to chipboard but consists
of thin wood wafers that are laid in a specific
way. The most common of these we see
around is ‘Stirling Board’. The sheets are
Flaxboard cleverly utilises the waste from
the linen industry
Chipboard flooring
made up in three wafer layers, similar to
plywood. The inner core, central wafers,
are laid across the width of the board and
the outer layers longitudinally. All is held
together with a resin binder that, in the
main, allows for external use.
The manipulation of the wafers, their
‘orientation’, led to the name. OSB has
greater strength than chipboard, especially
in the longitudinal plane.
Wafer board
This board is also made up from wood
wafers, but this time they are randomly
laid throughout the thickness of the board
with some general alignment towards the
longitudinal plane. Like OSB, wafer board
is stronger than chipboard and is used
where appearance is not critical.
Odds & ends
Other particleboards can be made up
from various residues produced as a
result of different processes. These include
Flaxboard, which utilises the waste from
the linen industry and Bagasse board, which
is produced from sugar cane residues.
FIBREBOARDS
The manufacturing process that produces
fibreboard starts out by separating the
wood fibres of the wood raw material.
These fibres are refined at high temperature
and can be mixed with water and/or resin
binders, extruded and pressed in a similar
method to that of particleboard production.
The treatment of the fibres, the amount
of binders added, the pressure processing
and temperatures while manufacturing,
determine the density of board produced.
Hardboard
www.getwoodworking.com GW331 May 2018 49
OSB in use
Hardboard
Having separated the wood fibres, they
are mixed with water to produce a sludge.
This sludge has the excess water drained
off and is then spread into the compressing
machine. The remaining water is squeezed
out through a roller system, under controlled
high temperature, to produce the board. In
most cases natural resins in the wood bond
the fibres together; however, some binders
are added if required. The mechanical
‘felting’ of the fibres gives strength to the
board. Standard hardboard, smooth on one
face only, is not suitable for external use.
Greater use of resin and oil additives while
manufacturing produces a hardboard that is
water- and abrasion-resistant. Hardboard is
a fairly cheap, multi-purpose panel product
that has a range of uses from floor lining
to furniture drawer bottoms.
Medium board
Medium board is produced in the same
way as hardboard. The main difference
is the density of the product, which, in the
Wafer board can be used to level the floor
of a workshop
Understanding timber Sheet materials & composite boards
Water-resistant MDF
case of medium board, is about half that
of hardboard. Generally, two grades are
produced. The lighter weight one is used
for such applications as pin/notice boards
and the slightly denser one for internal
panelling. It is not suitable for external use.
Soft board
The name soft board describes what
this panel product is. At about a quarter
to a third of the density of hardboard
it is mainly used for insulation only.
Medium Density Fibreboard
Medium Density Fibreboard (MDF)
has become tremendously popular. It is
manufactured from fibres that have been
dried, had resins added and are then
pressed to produce the board. No water
is used. Because the fibres are dry the
‘mat’ produced can be pressed under lower
temperatures than those used to produce
hardboard. The density of MDF will vary
depending on the thickness of the board;
HEALTH & SAFETY
Cutting and sanding any of these panel
products, especially with power tools, will
produce a fair amount of fine dust. This is
especially so with MDF. At the very least
face masks should be worn and, when
cutting MDF, it is recommended that a full
face mask should be employed. The simple
fact is that the working of wood releases
carcinogens and, when mixed with resin
binders and adhesives, becomes a nasty
cocktail. On that basis it is a good idea
to take as many precautions as you can
to safeguard your health
MDF mouldings
50 GW331 May 2018 www.getwoodworking.com
Veneer-faced MDF
thinner boards are of higher density. It is,
however, slightly less dense than hardboard.
The sheets have two smooth faces. MDF
can be worked like wood and is an ideal
product from which to make skirting boards
and other second-fix internal mouldings. For
furniture and decorative items a range of
veneer-faced sheets are available. As usual
these should be faced both sides to ensure
stability is maintained. The range of products
available in MDF now includes those that are
moisture resistant, flame retardant and of an
exterior grade.
Laminated boards
The most common and easily recognised
laminated board is plywood. Logs are peeled
to produce veneers that are then bonded
together in alternating grain directions to
produce the ply board. Core veneers tend
to be of lesser quality than the faces and
each layer can be made up of different
thicknesses. The type of raw material
used, coupled with the choice of adhesive,
determine the suitability of the board for a
particular use. Blockboard and Laminboard
are variations on the theme using larger
sections of solid wood in the core.
Plywood
The minimum number of veneers used in
plywood is three and moves upwards, two
at a time, to a multi-layered board. Thinner
boards use thinner veneers, usually of the
same thickness. However, depending on
the quality produced, internal veneers
can be thicker than the face veneers.
Two main factors affect ply board uses:
the quality of the wood veneers and the type
of adhesives used to bond these together.
The range of products available is huge and
Plywood
Bendy MDF
includes some that are metal or plastic-faced
for specific applications.
Blockboard
Once a very popular board for thicker
projects, blockboard, although still available,
has been overtaken by chipboard and MDF
in many cases. The inner core of this panel
product is made up from solid strips of wood.
These can be hardwood or softwood
depending on the grade and end use.
The outer veneers are laid in the opposite
direction to the core.
Some less common boards are made with
a solid core and two alternating veneers to
each face. The core strips are generally laid
without adhesive. When the veneers are
applied, with the associated adhesives,
the whole lot is bound together.
Laminboard
This is a superior quality board to
blockboard, although it is made up in a
similar way. The core strips of solid wood are
much thinner and are glued on edge as the
board is constructed. A strong panel product
that is used in furniture production with
veneer faces.
Battenboard
Not a common panel product, battenboard
is made up using wider solid strips of wood.
Varying the type of timber in the core
produces lighter or heavier panels. GW
NEXT MONTH
Peter examines the range of wood-boring
insects woodworkers may discover –
‘woodworm’ to you & me!
Blockboard
 TOP BRAND
SPECIAL PRICES
All prices include VAT and delivery (UK mainland).

HS105 10”
Sawbench
• 75 mm depth of cut
• 590 mm table width extension
• 60 T TCT blade included
• 2000 W motor
• Soft start motor
INCLUSIVE

TABLE
WIDTH
EXTENSION

2000 W £259.99
INCLUSIVE

SOLID
BASE UNIT Price includes
590 VAT & extra 60T
tct saw blade
worth £35.99

Offers Valid until: June 30th 2018

BTS 700 BASA 1 TIGER 2000S

125mm Belt and Disc Sander 200mm Ø
200mm Bandsaw Sharpening System
+ Mitre Guide
250 W £99.99 BEST BEST
SELLER SELLER

300 W

£129.99
HA1000
SM200AL Dust Extractor
200mm Bench Grinder 1100 W

£89. 99
£189. 99 £119.99

contact us : FOLLOw us :
01484 400 488 www.nmatools.co.uk NMATOOLS
FA X 01484 711 012 Unit 1, Brookfoot Business Park. @NMA_TOOLS
sales@nmauk.com Brighouse, West Yorks, HD6 2SD
mafell_uk
 GIVES THE SHARPEST EDGES.
BUILT TO LAST.

The specially developed Stainless steel main shaft

rubber on the zinc drive with EzyLock makes it easy to
wheel ensures a constant change stones without using
speed, even under full load. any tools.

The sleeves are integrated The powerful industrial

in the fully cast housing, which motor is a true workhorse.
minimises play for the Universal
Support.

THE TORMEK T-8 is a high quality machine which sharpens your edge tools with the highest precision.
Water cooled sharpening is gentle on the steel and the edge is continuously cooled by water — there is no
risk that the steel becomes over-heated and loses its hardness.

This machine is built for continuous use. Its unique drive system is efficient and manages to hold a constant speed, even
under full load. You get a sharpening system that will sharpen your edge tools razor sharp, making them a pleasure to use.

The Tormek jigs give you full control over the sharpening, see all at tormek.com
Included with Tormek T-8

The Square Edge Jig SE-77 With the Gouge Jig SVD-186 you With the Knife Jig SVM-45 you The Tool Rest SVD-110 is ideal
makes it easy to sharpen chisels can easily follow curved shaped tools can sharpen most of your knives. when sharpening turning scrapers.
and plane irons. and v-tools.

For more information visit www.tormek.com or call UK importer: BriMarc Tools & Machinery 0333 240 69 67

Sharpening Innovation
AUTHORISED SKILL CENTRES
Axminster Tools & Machinery,
Axminster, Devon EX13 5SN
Axminster Tools & Machinery,
Basingstoke, Hampshire RG22 6HN
J Carr & Sons, Boston, Lincolnshire PE21 9BN
Axminster Tools & Machinery, Cardiff CF5 6EH
The Toolpost, Didcot, Oxford OX11 7HR
RDG Tools on Line,
Hebden Bridge, West Yorkshire HX7 5AD
Axminster Tools & Machinery,
High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire HP12 3FF
Classic Hand Tools Ltd, Ipswich, Suffolk IP6 9EW
Yandle & Sons Ltd, Martock, Somerset TA12 6JU
Toolite, Mitcheldean, Gloucestershire GL17 0SL
Axminster Tools & Machinery,
North Shields, Tyne & Wear NE29 7UJ
Norfolk Saw Services, Norwich, Norfolk NR3 2AW
Axminster Tools & Machinery,
Nuneaton, Warwickshire CV10 7RA
Romford Tools Ltd, Romford, Essex RM1 2EP
Westcountry Woodworking Ltd,
St Austell, Cornwall PL26 7SR
Axminster Tools & Machinery,
Sittingbourne, Kent ME9 8QP
B McNamee & Co Ltd,
Strabane, County Tyrone BT82 8EL
D & M Tools, Twickenham, Middlesex TW1 4AW
Axminster Tools & Machinery,
Warrington, Cheshire WA2 8NT
The Woodsmith’s Store,
Whitley Bay, Tyne & Wear NE26 3TN
Frank Clark Ltd, Cork, County Cork Ireland
The Carpentry Store, Naas, County Kildare Ireland
John J Ronayne Ltd, Thurles, County Tipperary Ireland 0504 21033
Tormek has Authorised Skill Centres in the
UK and Ireland, where you can speak to a
factory trained person who will demonstrate
how easy it is to sharpen with Tormek.
Please come and see why Tormek is No1 for
all sharpening.
Tormek appoints
Authorised Skill Centres
in UK and Ireland
Tormek have appointed Authorised
Skill Centres across the UK and
Ireland to give customers the very
best demonstration of Tormek
sharpening at the nearest location.
Now you really can see how good
Tormek is before you buy.
01297 302370 Five-day training course
On a recent five-day training
01256 637477 course, Tormek met all the UK
and Irish retailers. Staff members
01205 351555
were trained in all aspects of
02920 025000 sharpening with Tormek, and shown
01235 511101 why Tormek is the No.1 for your
edge tools. Both the T-8 and T-4 Delegates sharpening on the Tormek T-4
were reviewed in detail including
01422 884605 the seven-year warranty; delegates examined every jig, and then each one
sharpened a tool from blunt to finished edge. The theories of sharpening
01494 885480 were also discussed so that everyone on the training course would know
how to get the very best edge on their tools.
01473 784983
Tormek’s trainer, Stig Reitan, said: “It was great meeting everyone and
01935 822207 feeling the positivity among the participants. Lots of questions were asked
01594 544521 and answered. Buying a machine from a person who knows and understands
the system is reassuring for new users and we’re very excited about the new
Skill Centres in the UK and Ireland.”
0191 500 5966
01603 898695 The tomato test
Those on the course brought their
02476 011402 own knives to the training and
carried out the Tormek tomato
01708 765489 test. As soon as delegates had
determined and understood the
01726 828388 angles for the different types of
knives, they then had to sharpen
and hone theirs. Once satisfied
01795 437143
they had the sharpest edge, their
next task was to slice a tomato
02871 882853 without holding it or it moving on
0208 892 3813 the bench. If they achieved this,
they had passed the test and could
then have the tomato for lunch! A razor-sharp, Tormek sharpened
01925 595888
knife carries out the tomato test
Tormek in action
0191 2524064 To finish the training, each Skill Centre representative had the chance to
sharpen their chisels and other tools with Tormek watching, ensuring they
021 454 2222 understood every detail as to why this award-winning Swedish export is
the leader for sharpening all your edge tools. Now you can see Tormek and
045 883 088
have a personal demonstration at all of the authorised Tormek Skill Centres.
For more information about Tormek products, visit www.brimarc.com.
Axminster’s Meg Burden Stig Reitan talks Tormek to the delegates
sharpens her knife
Technical Tales from the riverbank
TOP TIPS FROM A
RIVERBOAT
WHEELHOUSE
BUILD
John McMahon admits to being a
frustrated naval architect as he shares
the tale of how he went about building the
wheelhouse for a large, steel hulled riverboat
W
hen I was in my early 20s I
had a career change; up until
then I was convinced I was
going to build ships and be
Isambard Kingdom Brunel. My eldest son
changed all of that by being born, selfishly
requiring food, clothing, etc. So, I cancelled
my planned degree in naval architecture and
got a job instead.
That job would use the only marketable
skill I had to offer; I had been making things
out of wood since I was a kid and had
occasionally made a bit of money from
this activity, so it seemed obvious that now
we needed an income, I would become a
professional woodworker. I have never
regretted this (I love my kids and I love
being a woodworker) but I still hanker after
ship building. I have worked as a boat-
builder on and off for years but since moving
to the very centre of the UK, I haven’t had
many opportunities to practise this facet of
1 Cruiser stern on a broad beam riverboat
3 Who put that there?
54 GW331 May 2018 www.getwoodworking.com
my craft, so I was really happy to take on
the commission to build this dismantlable
wheelhouse for a large, steel hulled
riverboat. I use the term ‘dismantlable’
because the alternative term, i.e. ‘collapsible
wheelhouse’, just doesn’t sound like
something I would want to put my name to.
Why make it dismantlable?
For that matter, why have a wheelhouse
at all? Pic.1 shows a typical wide beam
boat; it looks like a narrow boat but wider
(obviously). That’s because its form has
evolved from that of a cruising narrow boat.
It’s designed to do pretty much what any
leisure boat does: pootle about the pretty
back waters of our lovely country. It is
definitely wider and therefore a bit more
comfortable than a narrow boat… that
driving position isn’t very weather proof,
though, is it? Pic.2 shows a very different
animal – this is a working barge. Lots of
these have been converted to cruise our
larger waterways, often as liveaboards. They
make a fine, roomy boat and the wheelhouse
is often the main living space. There is a
problem, though: these boats were always
intended for use on industrial waterways.
You could take this beauty pretty much the
full length of the Trent, but as soon as you
try to go a little off the beaten track, guess
what happens… (see Pic.3) – it doesn’t fit.
2 The wheelhouse should be the focus of It’s like having a Winnebago that you can
your boat only drive on a motorway.
Many boat owners use a removeable
canvass cover as a solution but although
this is effective, it doesn’t really make for
pleasant cruising and it definitely ain’t
pretty (Pic.4).
The project takes shape
My clients came to me with precisely
this dilemma, but I was also happy to learn
that they had a solution: lots of riverboat
owners are coming around to the idea
4 Canvass wheelhouse that they can have an elegant, traditional
wheelhouse and still get through tunnels
and under bridges: the trick is to make
the whole structure dismantlable. The
dismantling and reassembly needs to be
quick and easy and the resulting components
must be light and small enough to be
handled on a boat, on the water. The
designer must factor in the limited space
as well as the possibility of bad weather
and poor light so, all in all, this proved
to be quite an interesting challenge!
Finished and ready for installation
Job well done
This was a hugely enjoyable project and
was made even better by clients who knew
exactly what they wanted. Michael and Trudi
are experienced self-builders and were able
to do most of the work on their riverboat
themselves; they were also wise and humble
enough to know that the wheelhouse itself
was a job for someone with more experience.
However, they did fit the finished joinery
themselves and now, as intended, the
Installation in progress
www.getwoodworking.com GW331 May 2018 55
wheelhouse is the focal point of the boat and
turns heads wherever they go. Bon Voyage!
You can see more photos of this build,
along with a video of the dismantling
process, on our projects page and blog:
www.mcmahonfinewoodwork.com. If
you are contemplating a self-build and need
advice, or if you’re looking for a professional
to fit out your boat, please get in touch; it’s
a few months now since I’ve done any boat
work and I’m in need of a fix…
Ready for anything!
Technical Tales from the riverbank

TOP TIPS FOR YOUR PROJECT (EVEN IF IT’S NOT A BOAT)

Almost any river boat can look great with a well-designed and ship-shape wheelhouse; however, this is a project a lot of self-builders
face with some trepidation. I have written this to highlight a few ideas that might help if you are contemplating a similar build. Some of
the processes here can be extrapolated and used elsewhere too – if you use your imagination perhaps some of my 30 years’ experience
in boatbuilding might help with your new hardwood conservatory…

TIP 1: Get the design right first

I have seen quite a few versions of the dismantlable wheelhouse
and all of the good ones have a few things in common. First, they
all look good – seriously what’s the point in an ugly boat? Start with
a concept sketch (Google SketchUp is good for this). Make sure you
have a pleasing, well proportioned design and then take the time
needed to find ways to make it function well. Form and function
should be harmonious: too many boats are designed to cram the
most stuff into the smallest space with no thought to a sweet line.
Don’t fall into this trap; the results are heart-breaking. Don’t just start
throwing timber together either; unless you are very experienced
you will need to prove your idea by drawing it first (Pic.5).
The quest for beauty doesn’t make practicality unimportant;
the design still has to work. The main pitfall I have seen in this area
involves creating components that are just too big and heavy to
handle in normal use. My solution for this build was to make the 5 Always draw it first
sashes a structural component. There is no frame as such and each
window can be removed separately. This worked well, and, after a bit of
practice, we were able to dismantle or assemble in about 10 minutes.

TIP 2: Always start with an accurate building jig

Make the jig a couple of feet off the floor so that you can get under the
sill plate to work, but not so high that you can’t reach the top without
steps (Pic.6). This jig was built to replicate the steel coaming that the
finished joinery will be fixed to. Having a jig allowed work to continue
on the boat while we built the complex joinery in dry workshops, with
easy access to machinery, benches and tools.

TIP 3: Use half-lap mitres 6 Start with a simple building jig

on the corners
Boats hate plain mitres like nature hates a
vacuum. The half-lap adds lots of glue-up
area, makes clamping much easier and
significantly reduces the risk of failure even
if the corner takes a heavy bash (Pic.7).

TIP 4: The glue-up

For larger structures, glue up with the
components in situ on the building jig
and leave them in place as you complete 7 Mitre half-lap the corners 8 Use the ongoing build to align each new
the build. Use masking tape on the sill plate component
to show the sash positions, as you would
when using a joiner’s rod (Pics.7 & 8).

TIP 5: Use lift-off hinges

to fit the sashes to the sill
You might need to grind off the small
retaining lug, but these hinges look good,
work well and you don’t run the risk of
losing the pins as you would with loose
pin hinges (Pic.9).

TIP 6: Use cascamite wood glue

Cascamite is old school glue, which costs
a lot less, is slightly less deadly and worked
really well on this project. 9 Use lift-off hinges to make each sash removable

56 GW331 May 2018 www.getwoodworking.com

 TIP 7: Tap your timber
This is something I read about in the instructions for a bench-crafted
face vice and was a bit of a revelation to me. The idea is to use a metal
working tap to form a thread in the bore of a hole drilled in timber.
Metalworkers do this all the time but it never occurred to me that
I could do the same in hardwood. In the past I have used threaded
inserts when I want a knock-down joint like this. Tapping makes a
better fit and does it faster (Pics.10 & 11).

10 Use a tap and a bolt for a strong joint… 11 … that can be dismantled and reassembled repeatedly

TIP 8: Draw all the angled

components full-size
You can get by with pretty basic scale
drawings for most of the joinery on a job like
this, as long as you are reasonably confident.
However, the more complicated stuff just
goes better if you map it out first, in detail
on a rod (Pic.12).

TIP 9: Keep it all together with 12 Draw the complex stuff full-size before 13 Hold down catches are expensive
stainless hold down catches you build it but do the job really well and look smart
These aren’t cheap but all the alternatives
I could think of would either spoil the look
of the job or add too much to the overall
build time (Pic.13).

TIP 10: Ask around the marina to

see if anyone else is considering
a similar project
Some of this work is a lot easier with two
strong backs, and two heads are often better
than one. Also, you’ll have the luxury of being 14 A simple laminating jig 15 Locating points for birdsmouth joints
able to re-use the laminating jig, which brings
me neatly to...

TIP 11: Laminate your curved

beams – never saw them unless
the span is very small
Laminating adds loads of strength and
rigidity to your curved beams and also
allows you to keep the beam section small,
thus allowing you to maintain your headroom
(Pics.14-17) 16 Cutting the birdsmouth 17 In situ and supporting the canvass

www.getwoodworking.com GW331 May 2018 57

58 GW331 May 2018 www.getwoodworking.com
 Vesper Tools Profile

LEFT: Chris
with his trusty
‘Bandosawrus’

TOOL-MAKING
MAESTRO
Regarded the world over for
producing first-class precision
hand tools, Chris Vesper of Vesper
Tools has certainly worked hard to
achieve success, which makes his
story all the more inspirational

I
nternationally renowned for producing some of the finest
woodworking hand tools in the world, Chris Vesper is a
man who came from very humble beginnings. Choosing
to make sacrifices in life in order to further his career,
his passion for what he does, as well as a great pride and
satisfaction, is indisputable.
Following on from Phil Davy’s review of Chris’ 7in blackwood
infilled try square in the last issue, I decided to find out more about
him and where it all began, which turns out to be from a workshop
he built himself on his parents’ property. Things have certainly
changed now, however, as a growing and successful tool-making
enterprise has allowed Chris to branch out and expand, and he’s
pleased to confirm that tool production is certainly in full swing,
but more on that later...

A passion for fine woodwork

Aside from being such a talented and esteemed tool-maker, Chris’
talents don’t end there. As I came to find out, he is also a hobbyist
furniture maker whose passion for fine
woodwork was discovered at the age of
14. Very much enjoying the time he spent
in the woodworking department at the
technical and trades-based high school
he attended, Chris tells me he was
“immediately hooked on the beautiful
warm touch and exotic smells emanating
from the timbers and polishes.” He was
also struck by the impressive machines and
plethora of tools at his disposal, and from
here he made the decision to self-learn
traditional woodworking – mostly from
books but also any older craftsmen or
hobbyists – with the aim of soaking up
as much knowledge as he possibly could.
“Learning about timber, cutting it, drying
it, tree species, etc. all started early,” he says,
“there was no family influence in taking up
woodworking, but more a strong personal
desire to do so and do it well.”As Chris was
set to discover, the passion that was forged
Chris in 1996 early on would go on to develop ten-fold.
with his Queen
Anne Tallboy At age 15-16, he took it upon himself to
make an ‘apprentice piece’ – a Queen Anne
Tallboy (pictured left) – which measured around

www.getwoodworking.com GW331 May 2018 59

Profile Vesper Tools
Document box, 2001
610mm tall, featuring traditional joinery and hide glue veneered
walnut as appropriate for the walnut period. “Starting with nothing
but some saved pocket money, I needed to make or buy whichever
tools I could find in order to build the piece, and this started me
off with making tools for my own use.”
Chris explains that he is lucky in the fact he has an ability to look
at commercially available hand tool designs and decide for himself
what is good or bad, with regards to design aesthetics, function,
and quality: “In the mid 1990s, this left a lot to be desired,” says
Chris, “except for a rare few.” When his apprentice piece was finally
completed, he entered it in the ‘Mother of Pearl & Sons Youth
Woodworking Scholarship’ in Sydney back in 1996, and although
he didn’t win, the experience of building it would prove to be the
beginning of a life-long journey, self-learning to a high level, all
of which translates into many aspects of Chris’ life to this day.
Difficult beginnings
For the next few years, Chris continued to learn as much about
tool-making as he possibly could, working to improve upon those
on the market. “There were all sorts of things drawn up and one-offs,
patterns and castings made,” says Chris, “some finished, but many
not. These included an infilled toothing plane, a bronze router
plane, several shoulder planes, a honing guide, mallets, dovetail
Matched set in Amboyna burl
60 GW331 May 2018 www.getwoodworking.com
Chris’ range of tools back in 2003
gauge, sliding bevels, panel plane, mortise gauge, and more.
Stating that “to become an artificer it seemed was the inevitable
path in life,” I asked Chris how he made the decision to set up
his own tool-making business. He explains that he sold his first
tools – the most successful of which was a cutting gauge of unique
design – in 1998 at the age of 18 while attending the Melbourne
Woodworking Show. After finishing high school that same year,
he worked various jobs, mainly fitting and turning/machining, until
eventually he could see the writing on the wall with his low tolerance
for workplace politics and a very strong desire to do his own work.
“Throughout this period,” says Chris, “I kept the tool-making and
sales going in a small way, but in mid 2003, I finally launched into
full-time making, although no tools were marked with a maker’s
stamp until around this time.” Chris says that going full-time was
a decision based on the desire to make beautiful things rather
than financial sense or more practical reasons: “It’s very hard
work, taking many hours to produce the quality by hand, but
it’s a worthy profession and one I very much enjoy.”
As a self-taught tool-maker, Chris’ woodworking knowledge and
skills have given him the unique ability to design and make tools
that are a joy to use, and he says that, to him, function is foremost
over form: “Beauty is inherent in an object that is a pleasure to use.”
Following on from the success of the Melbourne Timber & Working
Ringed gidgee infills
With Wood Show, the next year saw him making dovetail gauges
and carving/marking knives, plus a mortise gauge and more cutting
and marking gauges of the old design. Once he’d gone full-time,
Chris tells me that he continually invested any money made back
into the business in order to buy better equipment for making
tools to a higher standard, as well as working to streamline the
processes used. “To this day, this is still how things are run here,”
he comments. At the start of his career, equipment was very basic
and a gravel floor was the beginnings there, with most wages
to this point being put right back into the workshop build, or old
machines and tools that could be found and repaired. The first job
in 2003 was to re-design the old style of cutting gauge to the current
design with locking knob on top of a unique and ergonomically
shaped gauge head. “The old design was a labour of love,” he says,
“requiring much time and sore fingers from the hand sanding and
shaping in order to make the extremely unique head design. The
reality of having to modify the shape to streamline production in
the new venture was apparent early on.”
Chris remembers the first couple of years being very difficult as
the decision to go into business had been taken with a headstrong
desire to do what he wanted in life, rather than becoming rich and
famous, so with no real business knowledge he dived into things,
but over time, the product range expanded, sales grew and things
started to get easier. At this stage, Chris was becoming recognised
in the industry, and people were beginning to associate his name
with quality tool-making. “From day one I have tried hard to uphold
my reputation for unerring quality,” he states. “Sales and reputation
grow every year at a slow and steady rate; there is no one amazing
thing that sells thousands of tools, but a little bit here or there
ensures it all comes together eventually. One big jump in life, other
than just sales, was my first trip to Woodworking in America in
Berea, Kentucky, in 2008, which really opened my eyes to the world.”
Influential makers
Asking Chris about any other potential bespoke tool-makers who may
have influenced him, he says he has to take his hat off to Thomas
Lie-Nielsen, who is credited with beginning the ‘quality hand tool
revolution’: “From 1980, this was the push against the corporate
cost-cutting efforts of the larger bean counting manufacturers of
lesser and lesser quality and range of tools, which came into force
from about the 1960s.” He also references Karl Holtey, Konrad
Sauer, George Wilson, and Veritas for their innovation in making
quality items, all of which have inspired him and the whole industry
in their various ways.
‘Support Tab’ on butt end of try square
Being in a position now where his tools are very highly regarded,
I wondered if did Chris ever anticipated this level of notoriety, to
which he responds that he never really thought about it: “I guess I
always knew my tools would be sought after because I make quality,
but whether or not people can recognise that, and then come to
the ultimate appreciation of one’s work with a purchase, is always
another thing. But thankfully they do.”
With more recognition and ultimately sales, Chris was therefore
able to further expand his tool-making repertoire, producing sliding
bevels with a low profile side locking knob, for example, which went
on to evolve into one of the flagship products after changing to the
current flush locking design that is still available today. “These have
proven worldwide as simply the best bevels available bar none,” says
Chris, “the design of which was inspired by the Isaiah J. Robinson
patent of 1876.”
Tool-making evolution
Although the processes he uses for making his tools have no doubt
changed and evolved since he first began, I asked Chris about the
factors that need to be considered when manufacturing them: “The
way I make tools is poly-technical, and that’s for sure,“ he says, “I
utilise precision engineering and woodworking machinery combined
with lots of fine hand skills and processes to produce my work, all of
which have been developed over the years.”
He explains that on the metal-work side, his tool-making involves
a lot of milling, turning and acres of surface grinding, and in-house
laser marking is required to achieve the precision of parts required
to make his tools. “There is not a lot of woodwork involved in
producing them as they’re mostly made of metal. My infills in bevels
and squares are made on the milling machine in order to achieve the
accuracy required, and my marking knives are turned by hand on a
wood lathe.” Other than that, Chris utilises a huge variety of skills,
hand tools and machines that sand, polish, grind, detail and finish,
all of which are required in order to complete each tool he makes
during the various production stages.
Going back to the evolution of Chris’ designs, the functional try
square was the next logical step in order to complete the essential
layout tool range: “After persistent prodding from customers, the
squares began.” These are designed with similarities to the very
successful sliding bevels with infilled bodies and stainless steel
blades, the design and development of which began in 2010: “This
took around 18 months to complete by developing new production
techniques, workflow and tooling in order to make these squares
efficiently.” During this time, the unique ‘Support Tab’ was invented,
Precision machining
www.getwoodworking.com GW331 May 2018 61
Profile Vesper Tools

CHRIS’ TRADE SECRETS

• I polish my tools with shellac, which
is a great finish. It’s not as tough as
two-pack lacquers or other such
products I could use, but it is organic
and repairable. With a little steel wool
and perhaps 2-3 new coats, it’ll soon
be near new again

• No matter your level of skill in

woodworking, be it trade or hobby,
I am firmly of the belief that quality
measuring and marking tools make
the difference as foundation tools. You
can have all the planes, chisels, saws,
etc. in the world but if you don’t have
an accurate line to work to, then you’re
going to battle that rather than enjoy
your work. This foundation of
measuring and marking is one of the
things that personally drives me to
produce quality tools. If you don’t buy
mine that’s fine, but buy the best you
can afford. If you choose to continue
woodworking, you’ll find it’s much
cheaper in the long run
Testing squares on the master

which is used in all Vesper Tools’ try squares, and this was
followed by prototyping many different versions and developing
the idea further, all the while fulfilling mounting back orders.
In terms of the timbers used for his sliding bevels, try squares
and marking knives, Chris says that Australian native varieties are
definitely high on the list: “I love to use the classic exotics such as
ebony, boxwood, amboyna, cocobolo, etc., but timbers like Tasmanian
blackwood, ringed gidgee, and 10,000-year-old black red gum
are pretty hard to beat in so many ways.” Chris says that over
the years he has made very small numbers of special order
tools featuring Damascus steel blades, mother-of-pearl infills
or other unique details, and he regards these as demonstrating
the peak of his talents.
Basing many of his designs on those from the 1880s (particularly
his infilled versions), Chris is eager to point out that his tools are
traditional while embracing contemporary production methods.
These are undoubtedly works of art in many ways, with each one
being carefully made with consistent handmade quality and an
unerring eye for detail, and by doing this for the last 20 years,
it’s fair to say that Chris has undeniably carved out an incredibly
successful niche in the industry.
In 2009, Chris re-branded the business to ‘Vesper Tools’, which
required a new stamp to be made for branding tools and the old
‘CV within Australia’ outline stamp was retired in June that year.
The ‘Bandosawrus’
Asking Chris to tell me a bit more about his new place of business,
he says it’s important to point out that for 13 years, he ran Vesper
Tools out of a shed in a back yard in a semi-rural area just outside
Melbourne. With the improvements of bigger and better machinery
over the years, plus increasing amounts of stock and workflow, this
140sq.m workshop was outgrown many years ago. “My reluctance
to pay rent and thus pay off someone else’s superannuation fund
meant I had to sacrifice a lot in life and business, sticking it out in
a crowded workshop until I could purchase the current space, which
measures 500sq.m and is situated in an industrial factory building.”
After fitting out the workshop over five months, Chris finally moved
in and re-started production in September 2016. “This workshop
will allow the business to grow and has already improved workflow
and efficiency no end,” he says.
Describing this new space, Chris says that, above all, is it big –
very big! He informs me that he tries to purchase quality machinery
and hand tools to help him make his tools, and comments that
over the years, he’s found that trying to save money on equipment
invariably leads to costing him much more than he saved. “Anything
from simple sanding machines to engineering machinery, the same
principle applies.”
Admitting to having a penchant for quality and heavy iron, which
started when he was 18-years-old and looking to buy his first major
piece of woodworking machinery, Chris says that through much
personal experience and research he knew he wanted a bandsaw
as they can cut curves and re-saw much better than circular saws,
but he didn’t want the “pressed metal junk” that is still proffered
on the market today. “So I set my mind on finding a heavy cast-iron
bandsaw,” he says. “After months of scouring the Trading Post, I
found an advert that read ‘heavy cast-iron bandsaw for sale’. Bingo.
I had no idea what it really was or how significant the machine would
become, but I knew it was the one, so I agreed to buy it. And that
was the beginning of my machinery journey.” Now affectionately
known as the ‘Bandosawrus’, it even has its own Instagram hashtag:
#bandosawrus. “It was a wreck when I got it and I restored it to
better than new over the next 12 months.” Built in the UK by
Western & Co of Derby & London, it is extremely unique in its
construction and rarity: “If I was to close up business tomorrow,
this bandsaw would be the last thing I’d sell and I dare say it
would follow me to the living room of any house I lived in.”
The travelling tool-maker
Despite being based on the other side of the world, Chris manages
to travel a great deal, especially to the USA and UK. Unfortunately
I missed him at last year’s European Woodworking Show, although
this was where Phil was able to chat to him and get his hands on
the beautiful try square (which, incidentally, he couldn’t resist buying
having tested it...) So what has Chris learnt from woodworkers over
here? He says he has a huge respect for the traditions of hundreds
of years of high craft, which we are lucky enough to lay claim to:

62 GW331 May 2018 www.getwoodworking.com

Profiles clamped in a large press
“Sadly, Australia doesn’t have the length of history nor does it
really have any unique styles or designs of its own, whereas the
UK has entire books on its furniture history. The Brits are interesting
in that they are very fixed in tradition in some ways, yet in others
are very innovative and forward-thinking.”
As well as meeting customers at woodworking shows all over
the world, Chris finds that social media, particularly Instagram,
allows him to keep in touch with buyers of his tools and viewers
regardless of geographical location, lets them see what he’s working
on, and, most importantly, shows the world what he does and
how he does it. “Social media is capable of doing all this in a very
quick and economical way, with a smartphone being the only tool
required.” So, as you can see, Chris is incredibly business savvy.
The future
When I ask Chris about his plans for the future and how he sees
the business progressing, he tells me he’d like to build Vesper
Tools to a more sustainable level with perhaps a few people
working with him, although this will require very skilled craftsmen
Hand polishing and de-burring Knives in production
Bevel with mother-of-pearl inlay
whom he will most likely have to train. The fact that Chris has
no developments in the pipeline at present really attests to how
well things are going, and as he explains, he simply doesn’t have
time to carry out R&D. He tells me that the majority of his time
is spent fulfilling orders and trying to keep up with production,
and that, of course, is no bad thing.
This year – 2018 – is a special milestone for Chris, as it marks
20 years of him making and selling tools, which he’s now been doing
for more than half his life. “If I find the time,” he says, “I hope to
be able to launch some celebratory tools or special work later in
the year in order to commemorate this achievement.” So with that
in mind, fans of Vesper Tools should definitely be excited... GW
FURTHER INFO
To find out more about Chris and view his entire range of stunning
hand tools, see www.vespertools.com.au. You can also follow
him on Instagram: @vespertools
Blanks ready to make infills
www.getwoodworking.com GW331 May 2018 63
 The obvious choice!

ticks all the boxes...

...makes life so much easier
Marc Davies

er 20 m achines
HAMMER - A range of ovnal woodworker.
essio
for the keen and prof

FE2,LSoD ERBu-G RO UPn CoUurtK

Jopli
Unit vereign siness Park,
LTON KEYNES
Crownhill, MK8 0JP MI
o@ ukfelder.co.uk
Tel. 01908 635 000 inf
m
www.felder-group.co !
gue now!
✆ Request your free catalo

Precision,
n,
performance and
nd
ity
quality
ial on
Watch the full testimon
TV
Marc Davies’ Woodworking Machines FELDER GROUP UK
FELDER K 500 s FELDER AF 12
Panel Saw Mobile Dust Extractor

HAMMER,
For the highest requirements
of price and performance
MARC DAVIES
H
aving completed his City &
Guilds in Furniture Craft as well
as a series of apprenticeships
at top cabinetry and joinery
firms, Marc Davies is now an award-winning
cabinetmaker based in Milton Keynes who
creates bespoke joinery, mostly for domestic
properties. He commented: “My love of
woodworking started when my Granddad
bought me a tool kit when I was aged four,
and it has only grown from there.”
When Marc started Marc Davies Bespoke
Interiors around 10 years ago, he purchased
smaller machinery before eventually working
his way up to a FELDER K 500 s panel saw.
Marc said: “The step up to FELDER machinery
from what we had has improved the accuracy
and saved time by eliminating the need for
prep work on the panels before cutting them.
When choosing this saw, it had to take a full
sheet but still work in the compact space
of my workshop. It also required a scoring
unit. This saw ticks all the boxes. For a start,
the scoring unit makes life so much easier: we
use a lot of melamine to make our wardrobes
and kitchen carcasses, and with a little
adjustment you can get all of your cuts
absolutely perfect, directly from the saw.”
Talking about his experience with
machinery from the FELDER GROUP,
Marc commented: “I came across FELDER
a year or two into my career; it has always
been a present name and every company
I have ever worked for has always had at
least one, if not two FELDERs. I spent the
early days of my career using their machines;
these stood out in the workshop, and if there
were multiple machines, the FELDERs were
the ones you wanted to use as you knew
they would make the nicest of cuts.” Marc
then went on to say: “The reason I chose
FELDER was because I knew they made
quality products. I hadn’t had any experience
of their customer care or after sales support,
however; I bought the machine purely from
a user’s perspective, so when it came to
picking a panel saw for my workshop, that
was the brand I chose.”
See how a range of machines from FELDER
can benefit your workshop at www.felder-
group.co.uk or call 01908 635 000 for
more information. You can also watch the
full testimonial on YouTube by searching
for ‘FELDER GROUP UK TV’.
FURTHER INFO
See more of Marc’s work on his website:
www.marcdavies.webs.com
www.getwoodworking.com GW331 May 2018 65
Project 100-piece segmented cutting board

SEGMENTED
SENSATION
Tristan Dare creates a unique cutting
board design consisting of 100 pieces
of beautiful contrasting wood

T
he perfect gift for any time of
year? Absolutely! This cutting
board is not only unique, but
consists of 100 pieces of beautiful
leatherwood, wenge and maple. This little
board will impress anybody you show it
to, so let’s get the project started.
Choose & mark the wood
The first thing you need to do is gather the
wood required. In this project I am using
contrasting pieces of leatherwood (red
coloured), wenge (dark coloured) and maple
(white coloured), although you can of course
use whichever timbers you prefer. Each board
should be about 610mm long × 180mm wide
× 20mm thick. To start, you will need to mark
the boards with a pencil at 10mm. Next, set
your table saw at exactly 10mm and prepare
to cut the wood. The setting is important as
when cut and squared later on, you will end
up with three layers of each colour,
maintaining 32mm.
Cut the wood
Once you’ve set your table saw to 10mm,
it’s time to start cutting. You can use a hand
MATERIALS & TOOLS REQUIRED
• Leatherwood (red coloured wood)
• Wenge (dark coloured wood)
• Maple (white coloured wood)
• Abrasives from 120-1,000 grit
• Hand plane
• Palm sander/orbit sander
• Table saw
• Wood glue
• Pencil
• Square
• Food-safe wood finish (mineral oil)

saw if you wish, but it’s more efficient

1 Start by choosing your wood (you need to
select red, black and white coloured varieties)
2 Using a pencil, begin to mark your pieces
of timber at 10mm
and precise to use a machine method.
The next step is to cut the wood into strips
– you should have three of each colour.
Feel free to cut a few extra strips as there
is always margin for error when it comes
to woodworking. Once cut, make sure
all are the same width.

Glue & cut

3 Cut the timber into strips (three strips for
each colour of wood)
4 Here you can see the three strips for each
of the three timbers
Now that the wood strips are cut, it’s time
to glue and clamp them together. Before
gluing, ensure to remove any sawdust from
the surface of the wood so that the glue joint
bond is stronger. Layer the dark wood first,
followed by the white wood, then the red
coloured timber last. Make sure the strips are
level to the surface you are gluing them on,
then clamp the piece and leave it to sit for
24 hours until the glue has dried. Once done,
take the pieces to the table saw and cut the
more uneven side to 12mm. Repeat with all
the glued pieces, then set aside once again.

66 GW331 May 2018 www.getwoodworking.com

Cut the squares
Now that your strips are glued and trimmed,
it’s time to cut them into even squares. If your
pieces were cut evenly, your strips should be
about 38mm wide. If not, lay a strip between
the fence and the saw blade, then tighten
the fence. This will get it as even as possible.
If your strips are already even, all you have
5 Glue the strips from each colour of timber,
so they are arranged red, white and black
to do is set your table saw fence at precisely
38mm. Once done, use the table saw’s mitre
gauge and set it to 90°, then start cutting
the strips into small squares. For safety
precautions, clamp a board about 50mm or
larger to your table saw fence, and make sure
it is behind the blade by about 50mm. Next,
measure the board to the saw at 38mm.
6 Once done, clamp the strips to a flat surface
www.getwoodworking.com GW331 May 2018 67
Ensure to keep it as precise as possible, as
all squares must be even when it comes to
gluing later on. Cut about 40 squares; you
will only need 32, but it’s good to have spares.
Sand the squares
Now that the squares are cut, it’s time to sand
all their faces and edges. Doing this ensures
7 Leave to dry for 24 hours before moving on
to the next step
Project 100-piece segmented cutting board
8 Using a table saw, begin to cut the 40 squares (PLEASE NOTE BLADE
GUARD REMOVED FOR CLARITY)
10 Sand all corners to ensure there is no tear-out from cutting
12 You can then arrange the pattern squares
(4 squares × 8 squares)
15 Glue the squares into strips so they are
horizontal
68 GW331 May 2018 www.getwoodworking.com
9 Once evenly cut, you should have 40 squares of contrasting timbers
11 Arrange your pattern according to the sequence
13 The final pattern arrangement should look
like this
that all the faces of the squares are even,
and won’t cause problems when gluing up
later on. This step may be a bit long-winded,
but it’s worth taking your time here. Sand
each piece with 400 grit abrasive, ensuring to
remove any chipping that may have occurred
during the cutting process. Once done, make
sure no sawdust remains on the surface of
the wood, as repeated in previous steps.
Arrange & glue
Now that the squares are all sanded and
symmetrical, it’s time to glue them together
into the final board, but first you need to
arrange them into a given pattern. Start
by arranging them in the following order:
first layer (pattern A): strip flowing vertically
14 According to the pattern, apply glue to the
side of each square
with red coloured wood on left side, followed
by horizontal layer with dark coloured wood
on top. Repeat pattern with eight squares.
Second layer (pattern B): strip flowing
horizontally with dark coloured wood on top,
followed by strip flowing vertically with red
coloured wood on left-hand side. Repeat
pattern with eight squares.
You should then have four layers, repeating
the pattern as follows: A, B, A, B. Once
arranged, glue the strips together one-by-
one and leave to dry for at least 24 hours.
Note: do not glue all the strips and pieces
together at the same time; you will need
to glue the strips together first, and you
will then glue the strips on top of each
other later on in the process.
16 As before, leave to dry for 24 hours before moving on
18 Clamp up and leave to dry for another 24 hours
20 Square on a table saw ensuring to cut
as little material as possible (PLEASE NOTE
BLADE GUARD REMOVED FOR CLARITY)
Cut & glue the strips
Now that the strips are glued together, you
can begin to cut them on the table saw to
make them even and symmetrical, before
gluing the strips together on top of each
other. To start, set your table saw fence to
just a hair shorter than the width of your
strips, then run it through the saw to even
out the sides. Repeat with all strips, on both
sides. Once done, glue all the strips in a group.
Make sure the pattern is aligned correctly, as
shown previously. Once glued, let everything
sit for 24 hours until dry.
Hand planing
Now that all the strips are glued, you can
start hand planing the board. This step isn’t
17 Apply glue to the strips vertically, according to the pattern
19 Hand plane the squares until they are smooth and flat
21 Cut 19 × 13 × 400mm trim pieces from the 22 Cut trim pieces at 45° using the table saw’s
white coloured wood mitre gauge (PLEASE NOTE BLADE GUARD
REMOVED FOR CLARITY)
necessary at this time, but does reduce work
later on. This also makes the board flat and
even when it comes to gluing the trim.
Cutting the trim
Once the board is flat, it’s time to square it
off so it’s symmetrical for the trim. As before,
remove as little material as possible. If you
remove too much, the pattern will not reveal
the symmetrical squares. Once done, you
will need to make the trim for the board –
I chose to use maple. I started by setting
my mitre gauge to 45°, then cut two strips
‘C’ at 165mm (on the outside angle) and two
strips ‘D’ at 317mm (on the outside angle).
‘C’ strips are 165mm overall, and 125mm on 23 Glue trim to the centre piece, then align
the inside angle. ‘D’ strips are 317mm overall, to fit correctly
www.getwoodworking.com GW331 May 2018 69
Project 100-piece segmented cutting board

24 Leave the board to dry for 24 hours before
starting the sanding
and 279mm on the inside angle. Once the
strips are cut, dry-fit them to the board to
check they align perfectly. If so, you’re ready
to move on; if not, cut a few more pieces,
which will allow you to achieve the correct
angle while ensuring they still align.
Glue the trim
Now that the trim pieces are cut, it’s time
to glue them to the board. This can be a bit
tricky, as the angles may allow the pieces
to slide around. This can be remedied by
clamping each piece one at a time, while
letting each set with glue for about 10
minutes in between each clamping. After
gluing on all the pieces of trim, you may
encounter some voids in the glue joints. To
fix this, fill each crack with wood filler. Doing
so will give you a much nicer final product.
Sanding the board
Now that the board is almost finished, it’s
time to start sanding. I started removing more
material with the random orbit sander fitted
with a 120 grit disc, and slowly moved on
to hand sanding from 120-1,000 grit. Take
your time between each grit; this will ensure
you remove all the scratches. Any scratches
left behind from the previous grit should be
sanded out before moving on to a higher one.
Finishing
To finish the board, you’ll need to apply
a food-safe wood finish. The finish used
must be food-safe as it’ll come into contact
with bread, etc. I chose to use a mineral oil
applied with a paper towel or rag. I’d suggest
around five even coats, leaving the surface
to dry between each one. GW

25 Sand smooth with a random orbit sander, 26 Next, begin to hand sand the board from 27 Oil with a food-safe wood finish (mineral oil)
using a selection of 220-400 grit pads 400-1,000 grit using either paper towel or a rag

FURTHER INFO
If you’d like to see more from Tristan, just visit his YouTube channel
– www.youtube.com/burlywoodworks – or website –
www.burlywoodworks.com – for more projects like this one

28 The completed 100-piece segmented cutting board

70 GW331 May 2018 www.getwoodworking.com

 SUBSCRIPTION ORDER FORM
HURRY
DIRECT DEBIT SUBSCRIPTIONS ǎDŽ LjLJDžǒ
Yes, I would like to subscribe to Good Woodworking
OFFER
Print + Digital: £11.99 every 3 months
CLOSES
25TH MAY
Print: £9.99 every 3 months 2018
YOUR DETAILS džǎnjǍ ƻƾ ƼLjdžljDžƾǍƾƽ
Mr/Mrs/Miss/Ms .................... Initial ................................Surname ........................................
Address ..........................................................................................................................................
...........................................................................................................................................................
Postcode ............................................................. Country .........................................................
Tel .......................................................................................... Mobile ............................................
Email .................................................................... D.O.B ..............................................................

I WOULD LIKE TO SEND A GIFT TO:

Mr/Mrs/Miss/Ms .................... Initial ................................Surname ........................................
Address ..........................................................................................................................................
PRINT + DIGITAL SUBSCRIPTION
...........................................................................................................................................................
Postcode ............................................................. Country ......................................................... • 13 Issues delivered to your door
INSTRUCTIONS TO YOUR BANK/BUILDING SOCIETY • Great savings on the shop price
Originator’s reference 422562 • Download each new issue to your device
Name of bank ..................................................................................................................................
Address of bank .............................................................................................................................
• A 73% discount on your Digital subscription
............................................................................................................................................................ • Access your subscription on multiple devices
................................................................................................ Postcode ........................................
Account holder ...............................................................................................................................
Signature ...................................................................................................... Date ........................

Sort code  Account number

Instructions to your bank or building society: Please pay MyTimeMedia Ltd. Direct Debits from the
account detailed in this instruction subject to the safeguards assured by the Direct Debit Guarantee.
I understand that this instruction may remain with MyTimeMedia Ltd and if so, details will be passed
electronically to my bank/building society.

Reference Number (official use only)

Please note that banks and building societies may not accept Direct Debit instructions from some
types of account.

CARD PAYMENTS & OVERSEAS

Yes, I would like to subscribe to Good Woodworking,

for 1 year (13 issues) with a one-off payment
UK ONLY: EUROPE & ROW:
Print + Digital: £51.00 EU Print + Digital: £70.00
Print: £43.00 EU Print: £62.00
ROW Print + Digital: £70.00
ROW Print: £62.00
PRINT SUBSCRIPTION
PAYMENT DETAILS
Postal Order/Cheque  Visa/MasterCard 
Please make cheques payable to MyTimeMedia Ltd and write code GW33118P on the back
Maestro
• 13 Issues delivered to your door
Cardholder’s name........................................................................................................
Card no: (Maestro)
• Great savings on the shop price
  • Never miss an issue
Valid from............................... Expiry date.................... Maestro issue no...................
Signature................................................................................ Date..............................
POST THIS FORM TO: GOOD WOODWORKING
TERMS & CONDITIONS: Offer ends 25th May 2018. MyTimeMedia Ltd & Good Woodworking may contact SUBSCRIPTIONS, MY TIME MEDIA LTD, 3 QUEENSBRIDGE,
you with information about our other products and services. If you DO NOT wish to be contacted by THE LAKES, NORTHAMPTON, NN4 7BF
MyTimeMedia Ltd & Good Woodworking please tick here: ❏ Email ❏ Post ❏ Phone. If you DO NOT wish to
be contacted by carefully chosen 3rd parties, please tick here: ❏ Post ❏ Phone.
If you wish to be contacted by email by carefully chosen 3rd parties, please tick here: ❏ Email

SUBSCRIBE SECURELY ONLINE CALL OUR ORDER LINE Quote ref: GW33118P

tww.secureorder.co.uk/GWW/GW33118P 0344 243 9023

Lines open Mon - Fri - 8am – 8.00pm GMT & Sat - 9.30am – 3.30pm GMT
Calls are charged at the same rate as standard UK landlines and are included as part of any inclusive or free
minutes allowances. There are no additional charges with this number. Overseas calls will cost more.
Please visit www.mytimemedia.co.uk/terms for full terms & conditions CODE GW33118P
Around the house with Phil Davy

AROUND THE HOUSE WITH PHIL DAVY

P
erhaps it’s the constant need for mankind to reinvent, but have you
ever wondered why some hand tools appear to be so complicated?
There seems to be an endless flow of new tools, mostly from the USA,
that are marketed as the next must-have product. Not only will these items
make your life simpler, they will save you time and money in the long run, or
so the spiel suggests. All well and good, but I wonder how many of us have
been tempted to buy such a tool, perhaps at a woodworking show, only to
find a year or so later it’s still in the box, unused? That old acronym ‘Keep It
Simple, Stupid’ often makes a lot of sense… And the same can apply to power
tools. I remember several which had a shorter shelf life than intended and
were taken off the market.

There appeared to be little glue There were one or two hefty screws Hinged umbrella
used in the pew’s construction used, but they came apart easily with brackets were among
WORKSHOP: little damage other such memorable

PEW POWER
features

Do you remember a time when ecclesiastical furniture was
trendy? To the dismay of some people, many churches were
removing creaky pews to replace them with far more comfortable,
upholstered chairs. As a result, it became fashionable to create a
rustic feel in your home by installing a pew or two. This entailed
finding an appropriate seat, cutting it to size and plonking it in a
suitable corner of the kitchen or porch. Some were relegated to
the garden, where they soon deteriorated.
Pews were popular, and although you could find them at
reclamation yards and auction houses, they tended to be pretty
pricey. I remember more than a decade ago visiting an
architectural salvage yard near Bridgwater, which seemed to be
teeming with them. The bottom had fallen out of the market, so I
was told, and as a result they were unable to shift these
substantial pieces of church furniture.
Siberian pine
When the pews were being removed from my church (an elegant
Victorian building) as part of a major refurbishment programme,
I took the plunge and bought a couple. With very few knots
evident, this was perhaps the cleanest run of antique timber I’ve
come across. Obviously softwood, the timber was identified as
Siberian pine from church records. With more than 150 years of
regular use, the seats were well polished and had the odd dollop
of hardened chewing gum stuck underneath. No graffiti or
carved initials, though. A few of the rear pews had doors on the
ends, presumably to cut down on draughts. Brass name holders
and hinged umbrella brackets were other memorable features.
The first problem, though, was how to get them home. Each
pew was about 17ft (more than 5m) in length, far too long even
for a long wheelbase rental van. A friend offered to deliver them
on his trailer if I sliced them in half. Still more than 8ft long, each
sawn pew was bulky, though not too heavy.
With no obvious project in mind, storage was the next
problem, though they were easy enough to stand on end and
cover in polythene. With my recent house and workshop moving
saga, I needed to shift the pews yet again. This time I took them
apart, labelling the ends for easy rebuilding if necessary. There
appeared to be little glue used in their construction, the vertical
end sections nailed to the seats and backs, plus one or two hefty
screws, but they came apart easily with little damage.
Originally I’d thought about making some Shaker-style kitchen
doors from the timber, though I’ve since abandoned that idea.
A project of some sort awaits, though I still don’t know exactly
what to do with them…
These days there are plenty of church pews for sale on eBay.
Some look grand, others are in need of plenty of TLC. Many are
quite basic and perfect for recycling purposes, though if you’re
looking for furniture with character there are often lovely carved
examples, too. If you’re after high quality, knot-free timber
(mostly pine) that’s guaranteed to be well seasoned, I’d suggest
you could do a lot worse.

72 GW331 May 2018 www.getwoodworking.com

 IN ASSOCIATION WITH LOW TRADE PRICES! GO ONLINE
TO GET YOUR
16,000 PRODUCTS IN STOCK FOR NEXT DAY DELIVERY
0808 168 28 28 IronmongeryDirect.com
FREE
CATALOGUE
Rated as EXCELLENT 9.5/10

SPRING PROJECT – SUFFOLK LATCH

BOOK REVIEW:
TAKES: Two hours
PLAYING WITH FIRE:
THE ART OF CHOPPING TOOLS NEEDED: Steel rule, combination square,
AND BURNING WOOD bradawl, drill and bits, coping saw, chisel, hammer,
screwdriver
Ideally you should read this book sat

ON THE
in front of a roaring fire, rather than
reclining on a distant, sunny beach.
There’s a slight danger it could make
you pine for colder weather, and we’ve
had enough of that in recent months. Good preparation is
important if you burn logs, and here TV presenter Paul Heiney
LATCH
explores the science and practicalities of getting the most
from your fuel. He admits this was something of a mystery
early on, but through long experience and conversations
with foresters, woodsmen, survivalists and craftsmen, the
elements of the firemaking puzzle gradually came together.
Here he passes on his wealth of knowledge without baffling
us with science. In his words, there’s a lot to learn about
burning wood!

How things burn Taking only a few hours to install,

Heiney begins with an insight into how things burn,
the history of the humble match an eye-opener before
it was perfected. He stresses the importance of carefully
managed woodlands and highlights the disastrous impact
of 20th century coniferous plantations. It seems as though
community woodlands may be the way forward to prevent
the industry falling into further decline, and we meet
characters who are making a real difference in helping
to turn the tide.
A useful chapter on suitable timbers for burning and their
properties includes the odd poem, while subsequent pages
on the traditional axe includes fascinating profiles of axe
makers, grinders and handle craftsmen. An important part
of the wood fuel process, there’s a vital section on axe
safety and maintenance. The author admits that he hates
chainsaws, though sees them as vital, time-saving tools
in the right hands.
It’s encouraging to read about ancient woodlands such
as Suffolk’s Bradfield Woods, and the woodsmen responsible
for its successful development in the 21st century.
follow Phil Davy’s simple steps for
installing a Suffolk latch on a ledged
and braced door and be sure to avoid
any of the common pitfalls
Traditional Suffolk latches date back to the late 16th century, being
distinguishable from the later Norfolk latches by the absence of a
backplate. These latches can add the authentic finishing touch to
an internal ledged and braced door, especially in a period cottage.
But they’re not always straightforward to fit. Nowadays, most of
the more expensive latches are hand forged in India, which explains
their rather rustic appeal. Screws supplied can be a bit hit or miss
– the countersunk slotted ones provided with this latch did not look
right, and should ideally be round head.
Originally, latches would simply have been nailed to the door, with
the tips clenched over. You’d position a latch about two-thirds up
from the floor, with the latch bar fitted on the opening side of the door.

A worthwhile read
Remaining chapters cover felling trees, chopping and
stacking timber, plus the ubiquitous woodburning stove
and how to use it efficiently. Should you be interested in
smoking food, there are even tips on operating a smokehouse.
Whether you use a woodburner or an open fire, I think many
will find this
THE GW VERDICT book to be a
worthwhile
RATING: 5 out of 5 read. All in all,
a fascinating
Published by Paul Heiney hardback for 1 Using a combination square, 2 Draw the slot needed for the
PRICE: £20 the autumn, mark the hole for the thumb lever thumb lever and drill holes top
or maybe on both sides of the ledged and and bottom. To prevent breakout,
WEB: www.thehistorypress.co.uk even the braced door. Tongued & grooved either cramp an offcut to the back
Christmas list. boards extend the full width and of the door or drill from both faces
are not framed

www.getwoodworking.com GW331 May 2018 73

Around the house with Phil Davy

3 Slacken off the coping saw blade, insert an 4 Check the fit of the thumb lever in the slot, 5 Position the handle against the door and
end through the upper hole and re-tension and enlarge if necessary. The curved end of mark fixing holes with a bradawl. Drill and
the tool. Make two vertical cuts to link the the lever acts as a pull handle, passes through screw in place, lining up the slots for neatness.
top and bottom holes, so forming a slot the door and lifts the latch bar Round head screws would be neater

6 If the latch bar is too long, cut to length with 7 Place the bar above the thumb lever, mark 8 A staple is driven into the door to retain
a hacksaw. Wrap masking tape around the steel the end hole centre and screw it to the door. the latch bar. Mark its spikes, drill pilot holes
to form a clear cutting line. Clean up the sawn Avoid fixing through a joint between adjoining and tap in, taking care not to split the wood.
end with a file boards. Check the bar rises and falls Traditionally, spikes would be clenched over

9 Draw around the bar end where it meets 10 The frame keep for this latch is rounded 11 This keep has a spike at the top and is
the architrave or door jamb. Drill a pilot hole at the bottom and awkward to fit to Torus secured with a screw. Mark and drill a pilot
for the spike of the frame keep, which will architrave. A Forstner bit cuts a clean hole, hole to prevent splitting, then insert part way
be hammered into the wood for a tight fit but hold an offcut in place to centre the drill to see if it fits the architrave

12 Where the latch bar sits behind the keep, 13 Check the latch mechanism works correctly 14 Traditional forged Suffolk latches include
cut away architrave with a chisel if necessary. from either side. Although not easy to adjust bean head and Gothic patterns, as used here.
If paint exposes bare wood, tap the spike once spikes have been driven in, parts can You can get staples with locking pins for use
into the hole and screw the keep in place still be removed and sawn or filed on bathroom and toilet doors

74 GW331 May 2018 www.getwoodworking.com

 UK’S BIGGEST RANGE GO ONLINE
TO GET YOUR
16,000 PRODUCTS IN STOCK FOR NEXT DAY DELIVERY
0808 168 28 28 IronmongeryDirect.com
FREE
CATALOGUE
Rated as EXCELLENT 9.5/10

SPRING PROJECT – WINDOW BOARD REPLACEMENT Renewing a rotten window board is

straightforward, though be prepared
TAKES: Three hours for plenty of dust and debris as you remove
the old one. I used pine board, which is
TOOLS NEEDED: Bolster, club hammer, narrow cold chisel, available from most DIY sheds in thicknesses
cheap screwdriver, jigsaw or hand saw, router, filling knife of 18 and 22mm. It has one long rounded
edge and comes in several widths and

WINDOW MADE NEW

lengths. Once cut to size, treat with
preservative. With solid timber it’s a good
idea to elongate the screw holes; this allows
for movement and prevents splitting.
Phil Davy shows you how to quickly and Finally, make sure any exterior work is
easily replace a rotten window board carried out. Here, gaps in the pointing meant
driving rain was finding its way inside. GW

1 This old window board is rotten in the

corner, due to damp penetration from
defective pointing. The window frame is
actually fairly recent and in sound condition

2 Cut a line along the wall with a bolster and 3 You may need to remove nails, so dig down 4 If the window board is to be painted, MDF will
club hammer. You will probably need to do with an old chisel or grind a cheap screwdriver be more stable. Here, the timber will be stained,
this on both sides above the timber. Rake for this job. Ease out the old window board so pine board is a good choice. Cut to size with
out the plaster with a narrow cold chisel and use this as a template for the new one a jigsaw or hand saw

5 Try the new board in the opening and trim 6 If the gaps around the masonry are quite 7 If fixing the board with screws, holes should
if necessary. If there’s a groove along the back small, use a suitable filler. Smooth off the be counterbored. Cut plugs and tap these
of the window frame, rout a tongue on the surface with a damp filling knife and allow to home with PVA. Saw off excess material.
board’s rear edge to fit. Screw into place dry. For larger gaps, make good with plaster Sand and seal the board with preservative

www.getwoodworking.com GW331 May 2018 75

 On all ad
e

.
v
rt

ts
ise c
d produ

Quality • Innovation • Performance Beyond all expectation

P1 cc
• 9 World patents
• Guaranteed 90 degree accuracy
with Mafell CUnex blade
• Takes all standard bayonet fitting blades
• Works on Mafell guide rail system
• 114mm depth of cut
Revolutionary Precision Jigsaw • Powerful 900w CUprex motor

DD40 EVA 150E

50E
Duo-Doweller Orbital Disc
c Sander

“There are a
number of portable
jointing systems on
the market, but this
has to be the best
there is!“
Andy Bailey, Furniture
& Cabinet Making.

• Quick & economical: Making carcasses with the DD40 • Eva 150E perfect for coarse and
and dowel template. finishing sanding with 150mm sanding disc
• Fast and accurate: Edge-to-edge and mitre corner joints. • 2 Eva 150E models available with either
• Twin dowell drills set; at 32mm centres. 3mm or 5mm orbit
• Auxiliary stops: quick and • Eva 150E - 20% quicker at stock removal
accurate decreasing and increasing edge spacing. due to higher speed
• Low - Vibration sander

contact us : FA X
01484 400 488
01484 711 012
www.nmatools.co.uk
Unit 1, Brookfoot Business Park.
FOLLOw us : NMATOOLS
@NMA_TOOLS
sales@nmauk.com Brighouse, West Yorks, HD6 2SD
mafell_uk
Technical Responsible forestry
THE IMPORTANCE
OF RESPONSIBLE
FORESTRY
Shaun Stevenson of G&S Timber highlights
the importance of sustainability when sourcing
timber, the certifications to look out for when
buying, and how all timber suppliers should
ensure they are practising responsible forestry
A
s one of the most valuable
resources in the world, wood
has been sourced for millennia
in order to provide warmth,
decorations and construction. The
responsible sourcing of this resource has
been a topic of discussion for many decades,
as local populations of people, animals and
vegetation are impacted in the beginning
stages, but the entire world will see and
feel its consequences.
Sustainable timber
Wood is sourced daily for use across a
number of industries, such as logging,
bio fuels, and for the expansion of land
for agriculture. When practised responsibly,
sustainable timber allows for the continuous
renewal of forests as wood is sourced: when
a tree is cut down, another one is planted
in order to replace it.
Sustainable forestry considers more than
just the replantation of trees; it ensures
the lack of ecological damage to the
environment and to the flora and fauna
native to the area. Additionally, sustainable
timber is renewable due to the long-term
approach to managing local resources.
The sustainability factor will ensure
that the trees and forests in modern times
will survive for generations to come, while
allowing a high level of clean air and wildlife.
At present, two-thirds of the UK’s timber
Timber truck picking up logs
78 GW331 May 2018 www.getwoodworking.com
is imported: 80% is softwood from
Scandinavia, Latvia and other Baltic states,
and Russia; 15% is imported from Canada,
Europe, and the USA; and the remaining
3% from Malaysia and Brazil, among other
tropical regions.
Consequences of
irresponsible forestry
The irresponsible sourcing of trees has a
deep impact that is felt across the world.
Both short- and long-term, deforestation is
a big threat to both animals and the planet
itself. With the absence of trees, global
warming becomes a major factor in the
destruction of the planet: trees absorb
greenhouse gases, such as carbon dioxide,
and produce oxygen and water vapour
that are released into the atmosphere.
In addition, loss of animals’ habitats
will result in the extinction of many species,
as around 70% of both flora and fauna live
in forests. Indigenous people also lose their
homes, which represents a great cultural
loss. With the absence of trees, the soil
becomes more exposed to the sun, which
dries and renders it unusable for farming,
and without tree roots holding the soil Controlling measures to
down, there is an increased risk of flooding guarantee the responsible
and erosion. Erosion causes dangerous sourcing of timber
contaminants to enter water sources, In order to ensure the existence and
and greatly diminishes the overall drinking maintenance of sustainable and responsible
water quality as a result. forestry practices, timber certification
An oak log being processed Oak stack being loaded into the heat vent kiln

systems were put into place. Organisations
such as the FSC (Forest Stewardship
Council) and the PEFC (Programme for
the Endorsement of Forest Certification)
ensure the promotion of Sustainable Forest
Management and responsible forestry.
The presence of their certifications
and logos across a company’s website
or promotional material guarantees
the business meets the highest social
and environmental standards in the aid
of forest protection. The FSC accreditation
encompasses 10 Principles of Forest
Stewardship, which begins with the
compliance of all principles and laws that
FSC and other governments put into place.
In addition, ensuring the legality and the
right of use is vital, as is safeguarding
indigenous people’s rights of ownership
above a company’s. The local communities
and workers must be accounted for,
guaranteeing their economical welfare, and
the forest, ecosystem, landscape, resources,
and the biodiversity must be respected,
maintained and restored in order to
minimise the impact as much as possible.
Similarly, PEFC works towards upholding
the forest supply chain and guaranteeing all
components of transparency, accountability
and ensured continuous compliance to
all sustainability demands are followed.
By ensuring both the initial impact of
sourcing the timber and the long-term
effects are not only managed but minimised,
the protection of forests and biodiversity
across the world is guaranteed. With
trees being such an important factor
for the well-being of the entire planet,
companies are required to adhere to these
organisations’ principles and criteria in
order to assure customers across the world
that their timber is responsibly sourced. GW
www.getwoodworking.com GW331 May 2018 79
The Stenner 60 bandmill has a 229mm × 10m
blade. When in use the blade has 10 tons of
tension – the main motor takes 150Kva to start
the saw blade. It’s certainly an impressive
machine!
This tractor with Botex forestry trailer
is capable of lifting 2.5 tons
Deforestation in Latin America – the result
of irresponsible forestry practices
FURTHER INFO
G&S Specialist Timber are specialist
hardwood timber merchants who provide
high quality woodworking tools and
machinery. They are certified by both
the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC)
and the Programme for the Endorsement
of Forest Certification (PEFC). To find out
more, see their website
www.toolsandtimber.co.uk
Turning Spalted beech platter with exotic wood apples

A platter
full of apples
Taking a piece of spalted beech he’s had for a long time, Les Thorne decides
to turn a platter, as well as a selection of apples in various exotic timbers

M
any years ago, turning wooden apples and pears
was a significant part of my business. I used to
turn them for local and national retail outlets as well
as making some for other professional woodturners.
Many of these turners attended large craft fairs but were too busy
making bowls and pots to turn, what is always, a great seller.
A little while ago, I was asked to do a demonstration to a group
at a private club in London and they specifically requested I bring
some apples for sale. Luckily, in one of my wood stores, I still had
a few prepared blanks, including some really beautiful timber.
The problem I now had was what item I’d use to display them
on. This predicament was caused by me lending my good friend,
professional turner Gary Rance, my large display platter a few
years ago, which he then promptly sold (and never told me).
He then asked me to make another – good job he’s one of my
best friends! I’d had this piece of spalted beech for a long time
and haven’t done anything with it until now due to it developing
a couple of small cracks, which really renders it unsaleable but
perfect for a display piece. In my opinion, a shallow plate does
tend to show off the contents better than a bowl. GW

80 GW331 May 2018 www.getwoodworking.com

1 My poor old electric chainsaw struggled
through this piece hence the poor quality
of cut, but I just about managed to get
two for the price of one
4 Here you can see how badly shaped the
piece was before I started. At this stage, I
wasn’t sure whether I would actually manage
to get the desired piece from it as there were
so many saw cuts into the blank
7 There was still a large, deep chainsaw cut
in the underside of the platter that needed
to be turned away. The black or zone lines
in the wood are where different fungi make
barriers against one another
2 By taping a pen to one of the arms, large
dividers can be turned into a large compass.
I’m often asked what the best bandsaw blade
size is for circles: I find a width of 10mm and
3tpi to be perfect
5 Turning spalted timber can be a problem
due to the fungal spores, so it’s imperative
you take precautions by wearing a decent
mask or respirator. The face shield is also
important due to the splits in the timber
8 The dividers are used to transfer the internal
diameter of the chuck jaws onto the blank. If
you are really limited on thickness, you could
glue a piece of scrap wood on the bottom and
turn your spigot on that
www.getwoodworking.com GW331 May 2018 81
3 The blank was very thin so the initial holding
on the lathe required some thought. Short
screws through the faceplate would hopefully
not cause any problems, such as leaving holes
in the top once I’d hollowed the plate out
6 This cut on the top surface with the bowl
gouge will determine where the rim is going
to be. The toolrest is swung around to the
front to give the cutting edge the best support
9 Here I’m using dovetailed chuck jaws so I
needed to replicate that on my spigot. I used
my skew, which is ground to 15° across the
top, to cut the desired angle
Turning Spalted beech platter with exotic wood apples
10 A nice straight piece of timber can be
used as a guide to show how flat the bottom
is. Mark the high spots with a pencil so you
can see them when the blank is spinning
13 Having my brother’s cabinetmaking
workshop next door has many advantages
and these used sanding belts come in handy
for many turning projects, especially as the
edges often haven’t been used
16 Regularly check the thickness of the piece
using a pair of figure-of-eight callipers. Here
I am aiming for something around 8mm; any
thinner and the plate would probably fall apart
82 GW331 May 2018 www.getwoodworking.com
11 One of the easiest techniques to remove
small amounts of material is a scrape with
a bowl gouge. The flute of the tool is pointing
at 3 o’clock with the lower wing in contact
with the surface of the blank
14 A piece of quality 100 grit abrasive on a
wooden block is perfect for flattening off any
small discrepancies on the base. Once I was
happy with the shape, I power sanded the
rest through the grits down to 400
17 An option for turning thin is to support
the work behind the cut with your fingers;
this is a technique that should only be
used if you’re experienced in bowl turning
12 Once the bottom is as good as you can get
it, you need to decide what to do with the rim.
Half a cove is a simple but effective shape on
the edge. This is cut with a bowl gouge, making
sure the bevel is in contact with the surface
15 Turn the blank around and begin to hollow
out the platter, starting with the rim. At this
stage, leave as much stock as possible in
the centre; this will stop some of the vibration
that is experienced when turning this thin
18 A good tool for cleaning across the bottom
on the inside of the platter is the 60° bowl
gouge. This tool is sharpened by rotating
the tool on the grinder platform
19 This tool can be presented to the surface
horizontally with the flute pointing at 12 o’clock.
A normal bowl gouge presented like this is
likely to, at worst, catch and, at best, leave
a poor finish
22 Even though the piece is on the vacuum
chuck, I keep the tailstock in place for as long
as possible. If you don’t have the luxury of a
vacuum chuck, it would mean finishing this
last bit by hand
25 Often the apples are made of exotic
timbers, so you want to keep waste to a
minimum. Using a 60mm long blank means
I can get five from a 300mm length of stock
20 Any unevenness can be removed with
the 75mm sanding pad with a 100 grit disc.
It’s important to present as much of the
surface of the pad to the timber; this stops
you creating more problems than you solve
23 The little details are everything, so I turn
a small button in the base. Always do this
after you’ve sanded with the coarser abrasives
otherwise you run the risk of removing all the
fine details
26 After making the blank round with the
spindle roughing gouge, the shaping is done
with the 13mm signature gouge. The bevel
is in contact with the surface the whole way
through the cut
www.getwoodworking.com GW331 May 2018 83
21 Here I’m using the vacuum chuck to hold
the platter in order to remove the spigot; this
could be done between centres with the top
face up against a wooden disc
TURNING THE APPLES
24 My set-up for turning apples couldn’t be
simpler: a screw chuck with a 4.5mm screw
and a 3mm drill in the tailstock. Here I’m using
the versatile Oneway screw chuck, but a
home-made one will also do the job
27 You’ll need to move the toolrest around
the end to turn the top. The locking collar
on the stem of the rest allows you to move
it without altering the height of the toolrest,
which makes the process much more efficient
Turning Spalted beech platter with exotic wood apples
28 Cutting the indent in the top is difficult;
it’s important to keep the point of the tool
away from the wood as you can experience
the tip running back, causing a dig in. The
other thing to remember is that the tool must
hit the centre in order to remove the last bit
31 It’s now easy to turn the ‘flower’ end of the
apple. I like to take this down to about 25mm
diameter before cutting an indent in the end,
just as I did on the stalk
34 What you choose to cover the bottom
hole with is completely up to you. I like to
use a clove that is glued in with CA adhesive;
it does look pretty natural and the glue will
harden up the otherwise soft clove
84 GW331 May 2018 www.getwoodworking.com
29 Drill a 3mm hole in the top as accurately as
possible using a drill mounted in the tailstock.
If you’re working with the harder exotic timbers,
increase the size of the drill to put less strain
on the screw
32 If the apple doesn’t reverse onto the screw
perfectly then it will run slightly out of true;
this isn’t a real problem, as you can see here,
but it can easily be rectified with a piece of
180 grit abrasive
35 The stalk is made from hazel twigs that
have been dried in the microwave; the bark
then falls off. They are then soaked in black
stain for a few days. The stalk is then pushed
in with a small dab of PVA glue
30 Once you have turned the top and sanded
it, reverse the apple onto the screw in order
to turn the bottom. A business card against
the aluminium faceplate will stop the sanded
top of the apple from getting damaged
33 I like a high gloss sprayed and buffed finish
on my fruit and the best way to hold them for
spraying is to use an old bicycle spoke inserted
into the hole. The apple can then be easily
rotated while applying the lacquer
36 The completed spalted beech platter
with a selection of turned apples, in a variety
of exotic timbers
 CLASSIFIEDS
To advertise in Britain's biggest selling woodworking magazine call Rhona Bolger
on 01689 869 891 or email rhona.bolger@mytimemedia.com

SPECIALIST TOOLS & WOOD FINISHES

27452
WHERE QUALITY SUPERSTORES
COSTS LESS NATIONWIDE
PROFESSIONAL BANDSAWS
MAGNIFIED Top Quality Bandsaws MODELS ALSO FEATURE:
MITRE
GUIDE - ideal for professional MULTI-STEP
workshop use. Strong DUST EXTRACTION
steel body with solid cast OUTLET
iron table
• Table tilts 45° • Adjustable
blade guide • Supplied with FLEXIBLE LED
stand, 4TPI wood cutting WORKLIGHT
blade, rip fence, mitre guide,
mitre gauge and push stick REMOVABLE BLADE TENSIONING
• Induction motors DUST TRAY CONTROL
• Includes stand
SOLID THROAT MAX MAX EXC. INC.
QUICK GROUND
RELEASE CAST IRON
MODEL DEPTH CUT 90° CUT 45° VAT VAT
FENCE TABLE CBS225 228mm/9" 90mm 50mm £199.00 £238.80
CBS300 305mm/12" 165mm 115mm £399.00 £478.80
FROM ONLY
HEADER CBS350 340mm/14" 225mm 160mm £498.00 £597.60
£
DRIVE-BELT
.00
199EXC.VAT
TENSIONING £
238 .80
FOOTERINC.VAT
BELT/DISC
SANDERS
CBS300 4" BELT/
6" DISC
6" BELT/
9" DISC Musical Instrument Makers’ & Repairers’ Supplies
SANDER SANDER
£HEADER Includes
92EXC.VAT
.99
stand
£
111 .59
FOOTERINC.VAT 1 HP/ 230V/
CS4-6E 1ph motor
NEW
WOODTURNING CS6-9C
LATHE £136.99
£
EXC.VAT

164.39 Largest selection of tonewoods, tools & parts in the country.

Visit our website or order our catalogue. Callers welcome
INC.VAT

Dust extraction
facility 4" x 36"
belt tilts & locks £
0-90° 225mm 239.00
EXC.VAT
£
286.80
Touchstone Tonewoods, Albert Road North, Reigate, RH2 9EZ
CWL1000B x 160mm table, INC.VAT

Big 40" lathe ideal for woodturning in the DIY/workshop tilts 0-90° 370W,
• Long 1016mm distance between centres for turning longer 230V motor
spindles • 4 turning speeds: 850-2510rpm • Bench mounted

Tel: 01737 221064 Fax: 01737 242748

• Inc. tool rest, tail stock, drive centre, face place & 3 chisels

5 EASY WAYS TO BUY... SUPERSTORES

NATIONWIDE
TELESALES
0115 956 5555
CALL & COLLECT
AT STORES TODAY
CLICK & COLLECT
OVER 10000 LOCATIONS
ONLINE
www.machinemart.co.uk www.touchstonetonewoods.co.uk

www.getwoodworking.com GW331 May 2018 85

 CLASSIFIEDS
To advertise in Britain's biggest selling woodworking magazine call Rhona Bolger
on 01689 869 891 or email rhona.bolger@mytimemedia.com

SPECIALIST TOOLS, TIMBER, TOOL RESTORING & WOOD VENEER

ƝɃɀȽΎƞȷȼȷɁȶȳɁ
TM

Ưȯɂȳɀ˹ȰȯɁȳȲΎ˛ȼȷɁȶȳɁΎ˱ΎɁɃȾȾȺȷȳɁ
Ƨ˞ȱȷȯȺΎƜȷɁɂɀȷȰɃɂȽɀ

'\H6WDLQV - 14 colours
:RRG6WDLQVQHZIRUPXODWLRQFRORXUV

&KDON6W\OH3DLQWFRQWHPSRUDU\FRORXUV
0LON3DLQWLQWHULRU H[WHULRUFRORXUV

*OD]H(ϑHFWV WUDQVOXFHQWFRORXUV
3HDUO(ϑHFWV SHDUOHVFHQWFRORXUV

)ODW2XW)ODWDWUXHÀDWVKHHQWRSFRDW
+LJK3HUIRUPDQFH FOHDU H[WUHPO\GXUDEOH 6WDLQ%ORFNHU - white primer
(QGXUR9$5 IRUDQRLOORRN IHHO $FFHOHUDWRU ([WHQGHU

2YHU<RX7XEHWHFKQLTXHYLGHRV 6HHZHEIRUVKRSV RQOLQHVWRFNLVWV

)XOOUDQJHRQRXUZHEVLWH 7UDGH VWRFNLVWHQTXLUHVZHOFRPH

7HOLQIR#HXUR¿QLVKHVFRP 20
OC
NT · V

10

8QLW3HϑHUPLOO3DUF.LQJ¶V+DXJK(GLQEXUJK(+8<
· CO

www.eurofinishes.com
MPLI E

86 GW331 May 2018 www.getwoodworking.com

 CLASSIFIEDS
To advertise in Britain's biggest selling woodworking magazine call Rhona Bolger
on 01689 869 891 or email rhona.bolger@mytimemedia.com

COURSES, FINISHES & SPECIALIST EQUIPMENT

Quality Wood
Wo Turning Accessories Made
d in tthe UK by Planet

Drive and Live Revolving Centres for the discerning Wood Turner.

Available
ibutor
through distr
ughout
network thro
the UK, EU
& USA.
Tel: 023 8026 6444 Fax: 023 8026 6446
sales@planetplusltd.com www.planetplusltd.com
Planet Plus Limited, Unit 3 Speedwell Close, Chandler’s Ford, Hampshire, SO53 4BT

LDEN TOO Router cutters

EA
Spindle tooling
W

CO Bandsaw, jigsaw &

MPAN Y
circular sawblades
Online catalogue & ordering
www.wealdentool.com

www.getwoodworking.com GW331 May 2018 87

 Save up to
39%!

6
Don’t
Forget issues
Dad! for
£19.99*
Show the men in your life how
SAVING
important they are this Father’s Day
26% with a subscription to their favourite
6 ISSUES FOR
£19.99
FULL PRICE £27.00 magazine for less than £20!

SAVING SAVING SAVING SAVING SAVING SAVING SAVING

38% 39% 33% 33% 37% 23% 22%

6 ISSUES FOR 6 ISSUES FOR 6 ISSUES FOR 6 ISSUES FOR 6 ISSUES FOR 6 ISSUES FOR 5 ISSUES FOR
£19.99 £19.99 £19.99 £19.99 £19.99 £19.99 £19.99
FULL PRICE £32.40 FULL PRICE £33.00 FULL PRICE £29.94 FULL PRICE £29.94 FULL PRICE £31.50 FULL PRICE £26.10 FULL PRICE £25.50

SAVING SAVING SAVING SAVING SAVING SAVING SAVING

37% 20% 30% 30% 24% 16% 16%

8 ISSUES FOR 5 ISSUES FOR 6 ISSUES FOR 6 ISSUES FOR 6 ISSUES FOR 6 ISSUES FOR 5 ISSUES FOR
£19.99 £19.99 £19.99 £19.99 £19.99 £19.99 £19.99
FULL PRICE £31.92 FULL PRICE £24.95 FULL PRICE £28.50 FULL PRICE £28.50 FULL PRICE £26.40 FULL PRICE £23.70 FULL PRICE £23.75

SUBSCRIBE SECURELY ONLINE: Don’t miss out!

WWW.MYTIMEMEDIA.CO.UK/FD18P OFFER ENDS
CALL 0344 243 9023** AND QUOTE FD18P 29TH JUNE 2018
*UK only Direct Debit/Continuous Credit Card offer only
**Calls are charged at the same rate as standard UK landlines and are included as part of any inclusive or free minutes allowances. There are no additional charges with this number. Overseas calls will cost more.
TERMS & CONDITIONS: TERMS & CONDITIONS: Offer ends 29th June 2018. Subscriptions will begin with the next available issue when order is placed. For full terms & conditions visit
www.mytimemedia.co.uk/terms.
 Next month

Next month
GW332 on sale 25 May

SEND IN YOUR TOP

WORKSHOP HINT OR TIP
& YOU COULD BE IN WITH
THE CHANCE OF WINNING
A VERITAS LOW-ANGLE
JACK PLANE –WORTH
OVER £250!

DARING TO BE DIFFERENT
A unique learning establishment in an inspiring location,
Tegan Foley visits the Chippendale International School
of Furniture in East Lothian to learn how the team are
helping students to develop creative careers in wood

WOOD-BORING INSECTS A WOODWORKING LINK POCKET HOLE PROJECTS

As a wood restorer, Peter Bishop
often encounters instances
of wood-boring insect attack,
and here he identifies the main
culprits that we as woodworkers
will come across
WITH THE PAST
Jim Sutherland tells us why, after
all these years, his Grandfather’s
old tools still hold such a central
place in his tool cupboard
MADE EASY
If you want to make a simple stool/
table quickly and easily with the
end result appearing as if you’ve
used traditional methods, then try
using the Trend Pocket Hole Jig

PLUS: IMPROVE YOUR FURNITURE MAKING: VENEERING

CUSTOMISABLE RABBIT RUN HOW-TO GUIDE: USING THE TREND POCKET HOLE JIG
SCULPTED DESK THE WEST AFRICAN PIROGUE

www.getwoodworking.com GW331 May 2018 89

 End-grain
I bought an old GWR bench from a junk shop.
Knifed into the back rail by some disenchanted
passenger were the words ‘STAB THE B******S’.
Initially I thought I’d sand them out but then
realised they were part of the bench’s history.
The Station Master at the time was probably
livid, but anyone I point this out to now finds
the lettering amusing
WHEN
HARM
LENDS
CHARM
The distressing
tale of patination
T
here is a chasm between what we admire in old furniture,
and what we admire in new. Some people wonder at the
scenes that an antique piece must have witnessed; they
value the marks of use it has picked up along the way; its
resilience and endurance – its wearing and bearing. Some people
wonder at the sheer dazzle of a contemporary piece; its faultless
finish and crisp lines, its freshness. How does the one become
the other? How does the new become the old? The answer is:
with difficulty.
The first red wine ring; the skid marks of a toy truck with no
wheels; the cat scratch; the accidental dint – life on a daily basis:
the first cut is the deepest. Perfection is suddenly and irretrievably
lost. With loss comes grief, but soon too comes the second red
wine stain and all its brothers and sisters. You still grieve, but
not as much. You get out the tin of wax, and give it a going over.
I’m abbreviating history now because this may take many
lifetimes, but as dents and scuffs accumulate, you become less
anxious. The piece of furniture becomes part of the furniture, and
it takes its chances along with the rest of us. It can’t come to too
much harm now. You’re not happy when the buckle of a sandal
scores through the 17th century wax, but more wax will cover
it and light will perform its shady tricks. The result is called
patination, and in the marketplace, it is highly desirable.
Giving the lie
Patination is so desirable that it is replicated. In antique restoration
© Edward Hopkins 2018
and reproduction, you can’t wait a hundred years. Handfuls of old
chain thumped down and scrubbed around; the odd flailing, and
a cocktail of chemicals and dyes can fool all but the experts, and
sometimes even them.
While ‘patination’ is a warm, friendly term, the term used for
artificially replicating it is ‘distressing’. It is not distressing to the
distresser but to the distressed: the piece itself, which did nothing
to deserve being drilled with false woodworm holes or bleached of
90 GW331 May 2018 www.getwoodworking.com
Photograph courtesy of Lara Clarke-Wardle
all its natural colour. Am I being sentimental? Does a piece of
furniture have feelings? No, of course not: but why then do we
use that term defined as ‘causing anxiety, sorrow or pain’? Deep
down do we know that what we’re doing is a lie and therefore
wrong? No. Didn’t think so. More likely we know it’s a lie and
we welcome the profit it’ll bring.
The biggest difference between patination and distressing
is speed. Leave speed out of it and what remains? Those things
that wear well, and those that don’t, because patination can bleed
into damage, and damage exhibits weakness. One table top is of
melamine clad chipboard. It can lose its perfection on the way
out of the box, and will never absorb its loss into characterful charm.
Another top is a slice of tree already old and fit for purpose. One can
only get worse while the other gets better. This is my gripe against
man-made boards: they don’t, in the main, wear well. If you’re going
to use ply, use birch ply, and finish it with all the precision you’d
afford oak. Avoid MDF entirely for it will never patinate.
Forgive & forget
You’ll not avoid red wine stains unless you avoid red wine.
This is an unfair demand that no piece of furniture has the right
to make. Instead make furniture that embraces function, and
enjoys being used such that marks are not marks of damage
so much as marks of life, and therefore liveliness and interaction.
Furniture is to be used, not just looked at. The exhibition piece
untouched behind a cordon will not age. It may be superb as a piece
of graphic art, but it remains an intellectual thing, not a practical
one. Wood displays its nature in the way it grows old. The better
the wood, the more graceful the process. And the more friendly.
Red wine turns brown and scratches are absorbed in time. Old
wounds, like old graffiti, eventually acquire charm. Your great
great great grandfather was a dangerous highwayman who
caused great, great unhappiness. Centuries later he has become
a loveable rogue. GW
 Power,
Performance,
Perfection.

TREND T11
2000W ROUTER
The ultimate workshop
router with built in Quick
Raiser fine height adjuster.

INCLUDES
AD/18/02

Precision Micro Adjustable Fine Height 30mm Guide Bush, Inner Clip-in Storage
1/2” Collet Side Fence Adjuster Plate & Line Up Pin Dust Spout Case

Available from over 350 Trend Routing Centres

& Stockists in the UK & Ireland.

ZZZWUHQGXNFRP
 Coronet Herald Heavy Duty Cast Iron
Electronic Variable Speed Lathe

“The Herald lathe looks stunning with a retro feel to a very modern lathe...
With large blanks mounted you can use the variable speed control to keep
the machine stable and vibration free, and overall it has a very solid feel...
Would I recommend this lathe? Yes without a doubt, it’s well designed and
built to a high standard.”
Online Review
“The new Herald - Sets a new standard
It surpasses my expectations by a country mile! With its excellent finish,
capacity, accuracy and its range of speeds, I’m sure this Coronet Herald has
the required credentials the majority of wood turners could ever wish for!
The size is ideal for the turner with limited space, has outstanding capacity
for its footprint and is very quiet indeed...
Record Power most certainly have a winner.”
Online Review

Heavy-duty spindle lock

and 24 point indexing

Features the latest motor

technology to deliver
ONLY
£999.99
huge amounts of torque
from the 750 W
output motor

Inc. VAT

Specifications
Maximum bowl diameter: 533 mm
Maximum between centres: 508 mm 16011 Cast Iron Bed Extension £149.99 Save £30
Maximum swing over bed: 355 mm 16013 Cast Iron Outrigger £39.99 Save £10
Spindle speeds: 96-5040 rpm
16015 Tubular Stand £129.99 Save £20
Motor input P1: 1000 W
Motor output P2: 750 W 16012 Bench Feet £59.99 Save £10
Thread: M33 x 3.5
Rotating headstock Taper: 2 Morse taper
features accurate angle Weight: 48 kg
stops and can swivel 360º Size: W870 x D290 x H252 mm

Prices valid until 31.12.2018. E&OE.

Incorporating some of the most famous

brands in woodworking, Record Power’s

www.recordpower.co.uk Tel: 01246 571 020 roots stretch back over 100 years.