CHAPTER -1 INTRODUCTION

1.1 About the project

The proposed academic campus at Ramanattukara, Calicut by the Union Ministry of
Commerce and Industry, will be implemented by the Central Government under the
aegis of the Footwear Design and development Institute , Nodia a society under the
Ministry of Commerce and Industry . 20 acres of land out of the 77 acre KINFRA
knowledge park at Ramanattukara, have been earmarked for this Institute which
seemed apt to the FDDI officials due to its proximately to the airport.
1.2 THE FDDI
The Footwear Design and Development Institute was established by the Government
of School of Architecture, Bishop Jerome Institute, Kollam 2017 . India under the
union Ministry of commerce and Industry on a pressing demand for as Apex organization
to provide human and technical services in the industry. The first campus serving as the
FDDI headquarters was established in Nodia in1986. It also houses the FDDI society
which monitors and regulates all the industries within the region. A Part from the
Nodia campus, there are 7 campus located at Fursatgunj, Jodhpur, Kolkata, Rohtak,
Chinadwara and Guna.
1.2.1 FDDI’S VISION
The FDDI’s vision is to make India, the leading hub of Design Technology and
Management in the world, by taking necessary measures for creating quality
infrastructure for design, development, production and support service system for the
Indian Footwear Industry.
1.2.2 FDDI’S MISSION
The mission FDDI’s as an institutions is to provide world class education, foster
research and development ,evolve innovative application and encourage technology,
entrepreneurship and ultimately mould young men and women capable of assuming
leadership of the society for the betterment of the country.
1.3 AIM
To design a Footwear Design Development
1.4 OBJCETIVES
 To collect data on the requirements, standards, norms, campus planning and site
features to formulates an appropriate design program.
  To choose appropriate case studies for designing the proposed institute School
of Architecture, Bishop Jerome Institute, Kollam 2017

1.7 WHY KOZHIKODE ?

To since 2006, the Kerala state Small Industries Association has been pressing for an FDDI
campus Kozhikode, which has over 600 footwear manufacturing units with an annual
turnover of Rs700 cores giving employment to 25,000 people. Kozhikode is ideally placed
to house an FDDI campus as it is the second largest manufacturing . School of Architecture
, Bishop Jerome Institute, Kollam 2017 hub of footwear after a New Delhi.

1.8 SCOPE AND LIMITATION

A campus master plan incorporating all the components will be prepared .Preparation of
detailed floor plan incorporating services, interior and landscape features will be
undertaken for Administration and Academic areas. The institute will be planned on the
grounds of creating and interacting an interactive environment taking into consideration
various aspects of wetland landscaping.
Due to limitations in time, it is not possible to details out all the aspects of planning
for each building.
1.9 ACDEMIC PROGRAMME
The government Council of FDDI Administrative the programme offered by the FDDI.
The faculty consists of experts inn the field of fashion Design, Technology, Management
and Retail. A wide range of professional programme are conducted in the areas of
Footwear Design, Technology, Management ,Retail management , Fashion Merchandising,
Visual Merchandising. Marketing,, Creative Designing and CAD/CAM and Leather Goods
and Accessories Design etc. The professional Programme are conducted by various
department such as School of Leather Goods and Accessories Design and School of
Fashion Design.
The professional programme structure has been designed by express as well as renowned
academicians to allow the proper infusion of theory and practical knowledge the curricula
are updated under the guidance of professional from relevant industry . The core elements
of FDDI’s teaching technology are demonstration ,practice and theory . the elements is n
practical as well as theoretical learning. The various professional programme offered at
FDDI have been designed keeping in mind the conceptual grounding as well as the
practical know how requirement of the industry.
 Chapter 2 Data collection
Foot wear can be defined as garments worn on one’s feet. Their main purpose is to protect
one’s feet. In the present scenario. Footwear has become an important component of
Fashion accessories. There are many types of footwear : shoes, boots , sandals, slippers etc.
They are further characterized into many more types such as sneakers, galoshes, high heels
etc. Shoemaking is considered to be a traditional handicraft profession. However now it
has been largely taken over by industrial manufacture of footwear.

2.2 SHOE MAKING PROCESS

More than 20 operations are required for making a pair of shoes . with the advent of modern
technology, a pair of shoes can be made within a short span of time through each step in
its manufacturing is carried out by a separate footwear making machine .For manufacturing
footwear there are mainly 4 department such as :

CUTTING / CLICKING

CLOSING/ MACHINING

LASTING / MAKING

FINISHING

 Clicking / Cutting Department

In the department , the upper part of the shoe is made. The clicking operation is given skins
of leather . Using metal strip knives, piece of various shapes are cut . This operation
requires high level of skill as the wastage of leather has to be as minimum as possible.
 Closing / Machining Department
Here the component are sewn together so as to produce the completed upper. The work is
divided into stage. In the early stages, the piece are sewn together on a flat machine. In the
later stage, when the upper is no longer flat and has been become 3 dimensional , a post-
machine is used . Various edge treatments are also onto the leather for giving an attractive
look to the finished upper.
  Lasting and Making Department
The completed uppers are moulded into the shape of a foot with the help of a “ last” A last
is a plastic mould that simulates the shape of a foot. It is later removed From the Finished
shoe to be used further for making other shoes. Firstly an insole to the bottom of the last is
attached .The upper is stretched, moulded over the last and attached to the insole rib . After
this process , a welt-a strip of leather or plastic is sewn onto the shoe through the rib. The
upper surplus material is trimmed off the seam. The sole is then attached to the welt and
both are stitched together. The heel is then attached which completes the making of the
shoe.
The part of the upper that is glued own is then roughed with a wire brush to take off the
smooth finish of the leather as the rough surface absorbs the glue to give a stronger bond.
The sole are cut ,finished and prepared as a separate component so that when glued to the
lasted upper, it result in a complete and finished shoe.
 Finishing Department
The finishing of a shoe depends on the material used fro making it. F made of leather , the
sole edge and heel are trimmed and buffered to give smooth finish. They are stained,
polished and waxed to provide an attractive and to ensure that the edge is waterproof.
The bottom of the sole is often lightly buffed, Stained and polished with different types of
patterns marked on the surface to give it a craft finished look.

3.1 CAMPUS PLANNING

A campus Is an ensemble of building ,landscape and infrastructure used for higher
education An ideal campus should exhibit the following qualities :
 A unified cluster of building with intimate pedestrians open space providing unique
environment for living and studying.
 It should be quiet and comfortable like a residential suburb or park.
 The space between building can be areas where students may congregate
informally between classes for discussion and rest, or where they gather in large
number to watch or participates in sports and other physical facilities .
 The campus should provide quiet and private hostel rooms where individual student
may withdraw for study, meditations and rest.
 The same hostel offers the opportunity for students to identify with a small
“Family” group who share basic living facilities.
  Classroom should be creatively designed
 Campus design should incorporate growth and change
 The design should be flexible
 Demand on the university , location of the campus and type of instruction influence
the size of the campus .
 10 minutes from hostel to classroom is considered as maximum allowable walking
distance 3-5 is optimum.
 A campus should be designed with proper regard prevailing winds, solar traditions
and monsoon Rains which influence orientations, form and use of materials.

CAMPUS PLANNING HAS 3 MAJOR STAGE

3.1.1 Academic Planning

It is primary stage of campus development

The academic plan itself must include :

 Administrative Organization
 Academic structure or divisions of school and department
 Curriculum
 Students enrolment base and growth pattern
 Staffing pattern
 Desirable social and functional relationship on campus
3.1.1Physical Planning
Professional planners, architects and engineers must analyze the needs as stated in the
academic plan and them translate them through a design process into physical plans for
the campus including buildings, equipments ,utilities , roads and other requirements that
will provide the desired physical environment. A detailed building requirements is
prepared joint by university personnel and their professional advisor in a “building”
program that details the requirements of each room in every building scheduled to be
constructed during a particular development phase.
3.1.1 Fiscal Planning
The third stage of campus development is fiscal or financial planning . A budget can be
established realistically only after academic and physical requirements are known.
3.2 FORM AND APPROACH
Campus design is broadly classified in to 2 categories :
3.2.1 Homogeneous
The campus design follows a geometric pattern utilizing same materials and forms
throughout consistently . it depends on closed ended system.
3.2.1 Homogeneous
The campus consist of individually designed building that are distinct, not always in
harmony nor providing strong background context to bring the m together into a unified
whole . it is open ended system with very little direction is given for future growth.

3.2 PATTERENS OF GROWTH

3.2.1 Concentric Pattern of Growth :

The central area of the campus become tightly enclosed and successive rings of
development shut in and prevent selective expansion.

3.2.1 The Zonal Pattern of Growth :

Commonly know as typical American plan where the Academic , residential or recreational
zones are allocated specifically . It prevents integration of activities
3.2.1 Molecular Pattern of Growth:
Consist of self- containing units where the campus is complete at each stage of growth,
but the system perhaps limited to a “Many centered” campus rather than a centralized type
:
3.2.1 Linear Pattern of Growth :
In this pattern of growth the central core can spread at either end as the university grows.
The existing elements extend outward and grow independently of one another.
Economy and flexibility. It has got several advantage such as:
 Made up of continuous enclosed areas , this type can be built quickly
 It accommodate a higher proportion of functional areas when compared to circulation
areas.
 It reduces the amount of exposed perimeter, making it suitable for hoe climate.
On the other hand, lighting, an cross ventilation should be worked out carefully which
can be introduced to the middle of the volume created by double corridor in several
ways such as skylights, double height corridors, dormer window etc.

3.4.1 Courtyard Type

This is quite command to India and holds an illustrious place in the traditional of academic
buildings . its advantage includes:
 It provides as shaded central space, a controlled play area and a variety of adjacent
verandahs, Corridors and room.
 This type is particular popular in hot and humid climates offerings better climate control.
 It helps in better interaction among students and faculty overcoming the shot
comings of a covered space.
 Separate courtyard can be used for different functions and level of education with
several independence building around their own central court.

3.4.1 Cluster Type

The cluster approach attempt to translate the needs for segregating educational academic
service and other function into well- defined zones. In this type the classroom are arranged in
groups or clusters around a common areas. Its advantage are many ;
 This approach allows flexibility of space making
 The creation of a common space along with classroom cluster gives the campus a
more intimate spatial quality and a greater of identity. Each students affiliates with
a group of classroom s, cluster or common area.
 A module of classroom around a courtyard can be extended or repeated in stages
as per need.
 This form is economical to build because of its inherent modular system and
standard building .

3.4.1 Campus Type

The campus type plan focuses on the creation of a variety of exterior and interior
spaces. The buildings constituting this type are often straight forward and the emphasis
is on the relationship between the buildings and open space . Orientation and climatic
comfort should be a basic considerable of the site layout.

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FOOTWEAR DESIGN AND PRODUCTION
Shoe Making – How Shoes Are Made

Shoes Footwear can be defined as garments that are worm on the feet. There main
purpose are worm on the feet. There main purpose is protecting one’s feet. Of late.
Footwear has become an important component of fashion accessories. Although their
basic purpose remains that of protection administrative or deforming style statement
has become their additional and a significance function. Their are many types of
footwear, shoes boots, sandals , Slippers etc. They are further categorized into many
more type

Shoe and Shoe Making

Shoe making shoes, are further divided into many categorized such as athletic shoes
also known as speakers ,Kitten heals, lace up , High – top,loafers, Mary Janes ,Palt form
shoes and many other shoemaking can be considered a traditional handicraft profession.
However now it has been largely taken over by individual manufacturing of footwear .
A variety of material are used for making shoes –leather fabrics,plastic,rubber,fabric
,wood,jute fabric and metal. More than 20 operations are required for making a pair of
shoes however with the development of modern machines a pair of shoes can be made
in very less time as each step in manufacturing is generally be a separate footwear
making machine
Parts Of a Shoe
A shoe consists of sole ,onsole,outsole,midsole,heel and wamp (upper).They are the basic
path of a shoe that are mostly include in all types off shoes . other parts of a shoe are
lining tongue, quarter welt and backstay. These parts are include as per the design of the
shoes.
Sole :The exterior bottom part of a shoe is the sole.
 Insole : The interior bottom of a shoe, which sits directly beneath the foot. They canbe
removable and replaceable too. In some of the shoes,extra insoles are often added for
comfort ,health or other reasons such as to control the shape, moisture, or smell of the shoe
Outsole :it is that layer of the shoe that is in direct with the ground. There can be made
of various materials like leather, natural or synthetic rubber etc. often the heel of the sole
is made from rubber for durability and traction and the front is made of leather for
style. Special purpose shoes often have refined modification . for example – athletic
cleats have spikes embedded in the outsole to grip the ground,
Midsole : The layer that ties between the outsole and the insole for shock absorption is
the midsole, Some special shoes .like running shoes have other materials for shock
absorption that usually lie beneath the heel where one puts the most pressure down.
Materials used for midsole depends on the shoe manufactures. Some shoe can made even
without a midsole.
Heel - the rear part at the bottom of a shoe is the heel .It supports of the feet. Heel of a
shoe are often made from the same material as the sole of the shoe. It can be high for
fashion purpose or for making a person look taller. They are also flat comfort and
practice use.
Vamp, Or Upper : The upper part of a shoe that helps in holding the shoe onto the
foot is the vamp or simply called the upper . this part is often established or given
different styles to make shoes attractive.
Shoe Making Process – A footwear company has mainly departments in which a
progressive route is flowed for producing Finished shoes. These are clicking or cutting
Department ,Closing or Machining Department, Lasting & Making Department ,
Finishing Department and the Shoe Room.
Clicking or Cutting Department – Cutting of Shoe Soal in this department the top
part of the shoe or the “Upper” is made . the clicking operative is given Skins of leather
mostly cow leather but not restricted to this type of leather. Using metal strip knives, the
workers outs piece of various shapes that will take the from of “Upper”. This operation
needs a high level of skills as the expensive leather has to be wasted at the minimum level
possible .Leather may also have various defects on the surface such as barbed wire
scratches which needs to be avoided , so that they are not used for the uppers.
Closing or Machining Department
Shoe closing or stitching here the components pieces are sewn together by highly
skilled machinists so as to produce the completed upper. The work is divided in stage
. in early stage the piece are sewn together on the flat machine . in the later stage s when
the upper is no longer flat and has become three dimensional, the machine called post
machine is used. The sewing surface of the machine is elevated on a post to enable the
operative to sew the there dimensional upper. Various edge treatment are also does onto
the leather for giving ad attractive look to the finishes upper. At this stage only the
eyelets are also inserted in order to accommodate the laces in the finished shoes.
Lasting & Making Department
Shoe lasting the completed uppers molded into a shape of foot with the help of a
“last”. Las t is a plastic shape that Stimulated the foot shape. It is later removed from
the furnished shoe to be used further in making other shoes. Firstly an insole to the
bottom of the attached . it is only a temporary attachment. Sometimes mostly when
welted shoes are manufacture the insole has a rib attached to its under edge. The upper
is stretched and molded over the last and attached to the insole rib. After the procedure
completed a “Last Shoe” is obtained Now, the welt a strip of leather or plastic is sewn
onto the shoe. through the .the upper and all the surplus material is trimmed off the
seam.. Te sole is them attached to the welt and both are stitched together .the heel is then
attached which completes the “Making” of the shoe.
That was the process for heeled shoes. When a flat shoe is in the making ,there are
considered fewer operations. The insole in this case is flat and when the upper are
“lasted” they glued down to the surface of the inner side of the insole. The part of the
upper that is glued down is then rough with a wire brush pared as a separate components
so that when they are glued to the lasted upper. The result is a complete and finished
shoe. Soles can also be pre- molded as a separate components out of various synthesis
materials and again glued to the lasted upper to complete the shoe.

FINISHING DEPARTMENT AND THE SHOE ROOM

Shoe finishing the finishing of a shoe depends on the materials used for making it. If
made of leather ,the sole edge and heel are trimmed and buffered to give a smooth
finish. To give them as attractive finish and to ensure that the edge is waterproof they
are stained ,polished and waxed . The bottom of the sole is often lightly buffered, stained
and polished and different types of pattern are marked on the surface to give it a craft
finished a “Finished shoe” has now been made. Fro shoe room operation an internal sock
is fitted into shoe which can be of any length – full hale or quarter. They usually have the
manufactures details or a brand name wherever applicable. Depending on the materials
used for the upper they are then cleaned polished and Sprayed. Lace and ant tags that
might have to be attached to the shoes, such as shoe care instructions are also attached
.The shoe at last get packaged in boxes