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Top Tech Tips – the perfect crochet circle
November 4, 2013 § 23 Comments
(h탣ps://caramedus.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/image.jpg)
You know the score. You’ve been making crochet circles the same way since I Don’t Know When, but
they are never quite right – the seam, having to smooth out the corners… I’ve been trying to find a
way of improving on the basic crochet circle where you close off each round with a slip stitch. This is
easy to work and easy to count, but the slip stitch at the end of the round creates a visible seam, and
you also need to stagger the increases to stop the ‘corners’ becoming obvious.
The second way of doing it is the spiral. This has the advantage of losing the seam, but it is more
tricky to keep track of the stitch count (stitch markers may be needed!), and when you have finished
there is a visible ‘step’ at the end which needs smoothing out. It also doesn’t work if you want to
work a different colour for each round.
https://caramedus.com/2013/11/04/toptechtipstheperfectcrochetcircle/ 1/13
(h탣ps://caramedus.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/circles‑comparison.jpg)
What I’ve come up with combines the advantages of working in closed off rounds with those of the
spiral:
It is easier to count
It has a less visible seam,
It can be worked in coloured stripes
It is a much smoother circle than the traditional ‘closed off’ method.
It has probably been done before at some point, and although I couldn’t find anything like it when I
searched, it may be lurking somewhere!
Method
When you work a circle, you will usually have 6 evenly spaced increases in each round, either by
pu砲�ing the increase first and then the required number of plain stitches, or the plain stitches followed
by the increase, for example:
Round 4 Ch1 (does not count as stitch), (2dc in next st, 4dc) repeat to end of round.
OR
Round 4 Ch1 (does not count as stitch), (4dc, 2dc in next st) repeat to end of round.
There will be an increase stitch either at the beginning or the end of the round unless you are
staggering the increases.
This ‘perfect circle’ method requires the increase stitch to always be the first stitch of the round, but
instead of working both of those increase stitches in the first stitch at the same time, you will work
one of those stitches at the beginning of the round, complete the round, and then work the second of
those increase stitches in the same stitch as the first stitch to close off the round.
I’ve wri砲�en out the pa砲�ern below, and then the walkthrough photographs explain each step in detail.
Pattern
UK terms used throughout.
Make a magic loop or other foundation ring.
Round 1 Ch1, 6dc into the loop, do not close off with a slip stitch.
Round 2 Ch1, 1dc into first st, 2dc into each of next 5 sts, 1dc into same st as first st of round. [12 sts]
Round 3 Ch1, skip first st of last round, (1dc into next st) twice, (2dc in next st, 1dc) 5 times, working
the last dc in the beginning ch‑1 sp, 1dc into same st as first st of round. [18 sts]
Round 4 Ch1, skip first st of last round, 3dc, (2dc in next st, 2dc) 5 times, working the last dc in the
beginning ch‑1 sp, 1dc into same st as first st of round. [24 sts]
Round 5 Ch1, skip first st of last round, 4dc, (2dc in next st, 3dc) 5 times, working the last dc in the
beginning ch‑1 sp, 1dc into same st as first st of round. [30 sts]
Continue in the same fashion, increasing 6 sts evenly every round, spli砲�ing the first increase over the
beginning and end of the round, and working in the beginning ch‑1 sp.
Before fastening off, slip stitch in the next stitch.
Stepbystep
(h탣p://h탣ps://caramedus.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/wpid‑photo‑4‑nov‑2013‑1505.jpg)
Step 1
Step 1
Work 6dc into a magic loop as you would do usually for a circle.
(h탣ps://caramedus.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/wpid‑photo‑4‑nov‑2013‑1507.jpg)
Step 2
Ch1, 1dc into first st, 2dc into each of next 5 sts.
Step 3
You will now have worked 11 stitches out of 12, so work the last dc of the round in the same stitch as
You will now have worked 11 stitches out of 12, so work the last dc of the round in the same stitch as
the first st of the round to complete it. You will see that what would have been 2dc in the first stitch of
a conventional circle has been ‘split’, so that 1 of those 2 dc has been worked at the beginning of the
round, and 1 at the end of the round.
Step 4
At this point you will have 12dc worked for the second round, but you may notice that the first stitch
of the round is more or less covered up by the last stitch. You will skip this covered first stitch at the
beginning of the next round, which will mean that there are only 11 stitches numbered on the photo
for the next round. When you ch1 at the start of the next round, it will provide an extra stitch in
which to work.
Step 5
This image shows the ch1 and first st of the next round. You will see that there are now 12sts in which
to work the next round. The first stitch of this round counts as the first increase stitch, which will be
completed at the end of the round. The pa砲�ern for this round in a conventional circle is (2dc in next
st, 1dc), and as we have already worked what counts as the increase st, work 1dc in the next st, before
2dc in the following stitch. Continue around until the last 4 stitches of the round, and the following
image will show where to work the last 4 stitches of the round.
Step 6
The last 4 stitches of the round (marked in red and yet to be worked on the image) will be an
The last 4 stitches of the round (marked in red and yet to be worked on the image) will be an
increase, a dc worked in the ch1 at the beginning of the round, and a dc in the same stitch as the first
dc of the round to complete the increase stitch.
Step 7
This round is now complete.
Things to remember…
If you try and count the stitches once you have finished the round by counting the top ‘bumps’ of the
stitches you will always appear to have one less stitch than you should have, but it’s ok – it’s just
because the beginning and end stitches aren’t joined that it appears this way. This confused me no
end when I was working this out!
If you are fastening off, you can slip stitch in the next stitch. Otherwise continue to work the
following rounds as for the pa砲�ern of a conventional circle, remembering the following points:
Ch1 at the start of the round
Split the first increase stitch at the beginning and end of the round
The last 2 stitches of each round are 1dc in the beginning ch1 and 1dc in the same stitch as the first
stitch of the round
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Tagged: circle, crochet, slip stitch, tech tips, technical tips, top tech tips
§ 23 Responses to Top Tech Tips – the perfect crochet circle
michelleejknowles (h砲�p://michelleejknowles.wordpress.com) says:
November 10, 2013 at 4:30 am (h砲�ps://caramedus.com/2013/11/04/top‑tech‑tips‑the‑perfect‑crochet‑
circle/#comment‑126)
Reblogged this on Michelle E. J. Knowles
(h탣p://michelleejknowles.wordpress.com/2013/11/10/top‑tech‑tips‑the‑perfect‑crochet‑circle/).
Reply (h탣ps://caramedus.com/2013/11/04/top‑tech‑tips‑the‑perfect‑crochet‑circle/?
replytocom=126#respond)
Sharlene says:
I love the roundness of the circle! Hopefully no more dimples in the crown to accommodate for
the pie wedge increases for each round. Let’s see if I’m ge砲�ing this right . . . for example:
Step #1: . . . work 6th dc in magic loop. (Omit usual “join with sl st.”)
Step #2: Ch1, 1dc into first st of previous round, 2dc into each of next 5 sts.
Step #3: Work 12th dc in the previous round’s first dc, working OVER the beg CH 1 AND IN‑
BETWEEN the beg CH 1 and first dc?
If correct, doesn’t working over the ch 1 make the seam a bit more raised/pronounced, as well as
the last stitch of each round a bit longer? May be worth it if the round is smoother. No more
pointy circles! I’ve given up hope on hats made with dc (my sc) because it just wouldn’t lay like it
should or had such a visible seam.
If I’m understanding correctly, I’m off to see if I can conquer this new technique.
Thanks,
crochet spitfire
caramedus (h砲�p://caramedus.com) says:
November 11, 2013 at 1:55 pm (h砲�ps://caramedus.com/2013/11/04/top‑tech‑tips‑the‑perfect‑
crochet‑circle/#comment‑130)
Hi Sharlene,
Good to hear from you!
Step 1 of your summary is fine. On Step 2, you will also need another dc in the same stitch as
the first st of the round, otherwise you will be one stitch short.
On Step 3, at the end of the round you will work your next‑to‑last in the beginning ch1 of the
round, and the last st is worked in the same stitch as the first st of the round, not between the
ch1 and dc as you suggest.
You’re right, this last stitch is more pronounced, as it is lies almost completely over the first st.
You can see this in the photo where I have compared the two circles side by side. It isn’t a
completely invisible seam, as I wrote on the photo, I think it is ‘less visible’ than a slip stitch
seam, particularly because the ends of the rounds are staggered in a way that the slip stitch
seam is not. It’s a ‘half‑way house’ between the spiral, where you can’t see a seam at all
because there isn’t one, and the circle closed off with a slip stitch.
It’s a suggestion, and one that you may prefer, or you may not!
As regards your comment about hat making, sorry to disappoint you, but this technique was
intended for circles only, and not for working in the round in general. It would work for a hat
only if you worked top down, so that shaping at top of the hat were increases rather than
decreases, and only where there is an increase in the round, as it relies on using the increase
stitch over the beginning and the end of the round to join the round. If your hat had any plain
rounds without increases, then you would still have to use another method of joining the
round. I was aware of this issue while writing the post, but I didn’t want to over‑complicate
things by providing too much information in the first instance. I may well write a follow‑up
post, and I will have to get to work on finding some other ways of joining plain rounds when
working in the round, won’t I?
Sharlene says:
November 14, 2013 at 2:57 am (h砲�ps://caramedus.com/2013/11/04/top‑tech‑tips‑the‑perfect‑
Thanks for the clarifications. I knew there was something I was missing. (Leave it to me to
complicate the most simplest of stitches! *grin*)
With your clarifications, I have the most beautiful dc round! The best of both worlds —
spiral and standard‑joined rounds. Great job!!
Now, I just need to find out how to continue on with my hat once the increase rounds are
completed. (Have been trying to recreate a very cute li砲�le boy’s hat that will include color
changes a li砲�le further on. I just need the crown to have a few more rounds — without
increases — before I start with the color change rounds. I was hoping this method was the
answer to my dilemma.)
Honestly though, this does make a very beautiful, perfect dc flat circle! Thanks so much. I
look forward to any further discoveries you come up with so this method can be used in
the hat crown, moving on to plain rounds without increase.
Good to hear that you managed to sort it out, Sharlene. Yes, I’ll have to get my thinking cap
Good to hear that you managed to sort it out, Sharlene. Yes, I’ll have to get my thinking cap
on about plain rounds!
Boocoos says:
This is the exact way my grandmother taught me! She’s long gone and the wri砲�en pa砲�erns just
slowly changed to the current methods, so they are long gone too.
I’d love to have your permission to repost this with link back and credits to you. Please let me
know at boocoos@me.com (mailto:boocoos@me.com)
Ah ha! I thought it had probably been done somewhere before. I could make a joke about re‑
inventing the wheel…;‑) Of course you can re‑post with credit.
Basic Earflap Beanie Free Crochet Pa砲�ern | Family Bugs Blogging
(h砲�p://familybugs.wordpress.com/2013/11/13/basic‑earflap‑beanie‑free‑crochet‑pa砲�ern/)
says:
November 13, 2013 at 6:24 pm (h砲�ps://caramedus.com/2013/11/04/top‑tech‑tips‑the‑perfect‑crochet‑
[…] Top Tech Tips – the perfect crochet circle (caramedus.com) […]
Beate (h砲�p://pa砲�ernstriedandtrue.org) says:
Reblogged this on Pa탣erns Tried and True (h탣p://pa탣ernstriedandtrue.org/2013/11/15/top‑tech‑
tips‑the‑perfect‑crochet‑circle/) and commented:
Very easy to follow tutorial for making a perfect circle.
Beate (h砲�p://pa砲�ernstriedandtrue.org) says:
Hi Cara. This is what I wrote about you:
h탣p://pa탣ernstriedandtrue.org/contribution‑cara‑medus‑perfect‑circle‑shaping‑amigurumi/
(h탣p://pa탣ernstriedandtrue.org/contribution‑cara‑medus‑perfect‑circle‑shaping‑amigurumi/)
Please let me know, what you want to have edited, if anything.
God bless you and thanks again for sharing.
November 15, 2013 at 2:57 pm (h砲�ps://caramedus.com/2013/11/04/top‑tech‑tips‑the‑perfect‑crochet‑ 10/13
https://caramedus.com/2013/11/04/toptechtipstheperfectcrochetcircle/
November 15, 2013 at 2:57 pm (h砲�ps://caramedus.com/2013/11/04/top‑tech‑tips‑the‑perfect‑crochet‑
Very grateful for your post, Beate, and thanks very much for offering to edit, but it is perfect as
is. I am glad you to read that you like the nativity. Jesus is a friend of mine too. God bless.x
iknitiatives (h砲�p://iknitiativesbykarenbachman.wordpress.com) says:
Thank you for this !!
You’re welcome!
Crochet | Pearltrees (h砲�p://www.pearltrees.com/j_ber/crochet/id4315785/pearl97281416) says:
December 1, 2013 at 4:12 pm (h砲�ps://caramedus.com/2013/11/04/top‑tech‑tips‑the‑perfect‑crochet‑
[…] Top Tech Tips – the perfect crochet circle | Cara Medus […]
Alichemade (h砲�p://alichemade.wordpress.com) says:
Reblogged this on Alichemade (h탣p://alichemade.wordpress.com/2013/12/08/top‑tech‑tips‑the‑
perfect‑crochet‑circle/) and commented:
Parece genial! En breve lo probaremos y ya os enseñaremos el resultado…
Alichemade (h砲�p://alichemade.wordpress.com) says:
Let’s try!
ely (h砲�p://www.facebook.com/artesaniasokarai) says:
Me encanta este aporte,pero me cuesta un poco comprender porq el inglés no es mi idioma nativo
y hay abreviaturas, voy a seguir intentandooo
ukcrochetpa砲�erns (h砲�p://ukcrochetpa砲�erns.wordpress.com) says:
December 19, 2013 at 9:24 am (h砲�ps://caramedus.com/2013/11/04/top‑tech‑tips‑the‑perfect‑crochet‑
Reblogged this on UK Crochet Pa탣erns (h탣p://ukcrochetpa탣erns.wordpress.com/2013/12/19/top‑
tech‑tips‑the‑perfect‑crochet‑circle/).
stitchesʹnʹscraps (h砲�p://stitchesnscraps.wordpress.com) says:
Beautifully done – what a difference between the two methods!
Jane (h砲�p://kni砲�ingimage.wordpress.com) says:
December 20, 2013 at 12:36 am (h砲�ps://caramedus.com/2013/11/04/top‑tech‑tips‑the‑perfect‑
Thank you for this great clearly wri砲�en tutorial
Last Bookmark Dump of 2013! | Habitual Homebody (h砲�p://habitualhomebody.com/last‑
bookmark‑dump‑of‑2013/) says:
[…] How to make a perfect crochet circle. […]
Dina aka Bossymamma (h砲�p://gravatar.com/dfnebossymamma) says:
I have posted a link to this on my blog at h탣p://bossymamma.blogspot.co.uk/p/hints‑tips.html
(h탣p://bossymamma.blogspot.co.uk/p/hints‑tips.html)
Becca Rose says:
Nice! thanks for sharing I will give this a go. I crocheted a rug recently with an increase of 6 each
row (with a slightly different method).
Geek alert: 6 is the magic number for circles as, if you differentiate the equation for the
circumference of a circle (C=2πr), i.e. if you want to find out how C (the circumference) changes as
we change r (radius) than we get dC/dr=2π which is approximately equal to 6.
clever stuff huh?
here is the post if you wanna read more. and thanks again for sharing!
h탣p://blog.beccarose.co.uk/2013/11/18/corduroy‑trousers‑rag‑rug/
(h탣p://blog.beccarose.co.uk/2013/11/18/corduroy‑trousers‑rag‑rug/)
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