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Poznań
City Guide
Poznań
Sneaking in some painless learning at the Porta Posnania Interactive Heritage Centre, p.38. | Photo by Łukasz Gdak / CTK TRAKT.
Foreword 4 Cafés 52
Feature Regional Dishes 54
Poznań with the Kids 6
Restaurants 56
Events 10 Nightlife 68
Arrival & Transport 16 Shopping 78
Maps Health & Services 84
City Map 20
City Centre Map 23 Hotels 86
Sightseeing Index 89
Stary Rynek 26
Old Town Walking Tour 32
Ostrów Tumski 38 DOWNLOAD
Citadel Park 41 OUR APP
Lake Malta 44
Museums 47
3
Foreword
Happy summer! In this issue we’ve compiled the best of
Poznań’s warm-weather attractions in a new ‘Summer COVER STORY
in the City’ section - check it out on p.50 - and included
our top ice cream (p.7) and beer garden (p.72) In this issue we’ve decided to stay
recommendations. We’re also hoping to make life easier close to the main train station and
for those travelling with children by introducing a list showcase one of Poznań’s hidden
of family-friendly suggestions (find it on p.6), which will architectural treasures: the 1910
become a permanent part of the guide. Concordia Printing House, which
now houses the Concordia Design
As per usual, there’s also a packed calendar of cultural studio. Photo by Mateusz Chrostek.
events to catch - from al fresco film screenings at Stary
Browar (p.10) to yoga in the park (p.10), and from the PUBLISHER & STAFF
lakeside #NaFalach music festival (p.14) to a Polish
rendition of the Hindu Holi festival (p.11). If summer Publisher
rains start pouring down, opt instead for one of Poznań’s IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k.
many temporary exhibitions (p.14) - like ‘Mission to ul. Karmelicka 46/51, 31-128 Kraków
iyp.com.pl
the Moon’, a presentation of stereographic Moon landing
poland@inyourpocket.com
photos at the vintage Kaiserpanorama (p.14) - or explore
the museums (p.47). Circulation
15,000 copies published 3 times per year
As always, feel free to send us comments and questions
through our facebook page (/poznaninyourpocket) or Writer & Editor: Janina Krzysiak
via e-mail (poland@inyourpocket.com). Enjoy summer Sales: Agata Urbanowicz (+48) 606 749 642
in Poznań! Events: Monika Boguszewska-Stopka (+48) 882 079 723,
Agata Janik, Katarzyna Mrozewska-Fenz
Research: Dominika Sosnowska, Patrycja Ples
Born in Upper Silesia, Janina Layout & Maps: Tomáš Haman
Krzysiak spent her formative Social Media & Marketing: Juan Sarabia
years outside of Philadelphia, PA,
before moving back to Poland Copyright Notice
to indulge her love for cheap air Content and photos copyright IYP City Guides Sp. Z o.o Sp.k.
travel, walkable cities, and Eastern unless otherwise stated. No part of this publication may be
reproduced without written permission from the publisher.
European nostalgia. When she’s
The brand name In Your Pocket and maps are used under
not writing and editing travel
license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, LT,
guides, she moonlights as a tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
particle physicist. No, really.
4
OUTLET FACTORY POZNAN, DEBIECKA 1, LUBON
Merrily going round on the Lake Malta Carousel (p.45). | Courtesy of Malta Ski
Poznań
with the Kids
Wondering how to not bore your children to tears during
your Poznań trip? Look no further than our handy guide.
Poznań with the Kids
Tots in tow? That might mean less time marveling at
historical landmarks and more time hunting down ice ICE CREAM NEW
cream, and wining (and dining) replaced by whining, but
Poznań offers plenty of ways to keep little ones occupied.
Here we’ve compiled our recommendations for making
your trip enjoyable for the whole family; and should you
urgently need to find the closest playground, we’ve marked
those on our maps as well .
7
Poznań with the Kids
CHOCOLATE MUSEUM
Joining the Croissant Museum is another sweet temptation
under an educational guise: the Chocolate Museum
where kids of all ages (including those quite grown and
greying) can learn about cacao tree plantations, the
history of chocolate, and chocolate-making techniques
while sampling decadent creations. The guided tours last
an estimated 50 minutes and include workshops during
which participants create their own chocolate bars - to take
home, of course (if you can refrain from wolfing it down on
the spot).QH‑7, ul. Wrocławska 12, tel. (+48) 502 45 41
77, www.muzeumczekolady.edu.pl. Open 10:00-18:00.
35zł/person, group of more than ten 29zł/person. Muzeum Czekolady
THE ZOOS
Blubry6D
PYRLAND PARK
Open till October. Located on the east end of Lake Malta,
this adventure park features 4 ropes courses (3 large ones
THE OLD ZOO (STARE ZOO) and one smaller one for kids over 3 years old) and two Tyrolkas
Dating back to 1874, the Old Zoo still has some - sweet 70m zip lines. If you need a rest afterwards, there are
picturesque vintage pavilions, but most of the critters two designated picnic areas with bonfire and BBQ options.
have been carted off to the New Zoo, and the Old Zoo Qul. Abpa A. Baraniaka/Chartowo, tel. (+48) 660 04 89
has largely been reshaped as a public park. There is, 01, www.pyrlandpark.pl. Opening hours vary depending
however, a modern Reptile House here, where you can on the month. Rope courses 25-36zł each, or 35-65zł for
see Komodo dragons, pythons, and caimans.QD‑7, ul. combination; kids 19zł; family ticket (2 adults plus 1 kid)
Zwierzyniecka 19, tel. (+48) 61 848 08 47, www.zoo. 75-85zł. Tyrolka 19zł (10zł with ropes course ticket).
poznan.pl. Open 09:00-19:00. Admission free; 8/6zł
for the Reptile House.
8
Events
02.07 - 30.09 » YOGA ON THE GRASS 09.08 17:00-12:00 » HIP HOP FESTIVAL
Starting in June, every Tuesday at 6 pm anyone can The Hip Hop Festival is coming again to Poznań! The artists
enjoy outdoor yoga classes taught by the Magiel Fitness line-up includes Paluch, Mr. KęKę, Guzior, Szpaku, Tymek,
instructors in Stary Browar Park. Bring your own mat and Steelyone & Kool Kid Dre (NY), Joda, OKI and Jan-rapowanie.
10
Events
It is going to be a hip-hop and rap extravaganza! Although
hip-hop music and rap are often intertwined, there is a
distinction. Rap describes a type of music that includes
vocals, while hip-hop refers to a cultural phenomenon that
includes graffiti, breakdancing and fashion in addition to
music, which is mainly instrumental in nature. However you
define it, the concert promises to be fun!QN‑8, Lake Malta,
ul. Wiankowa 3, tel. (+48) 61 876 60 11, Tickets 59-99zł.
15
Arrival & Transport
(open 07:00 - 21:00), which can help you plan your trip, get
BY TRAIN tickets, and even get into town.
MAIN TRAIN STATION Normal ticket windows are conveniently open 24hrs, but
Poznań’s main train station (Dworzec Poznań Główny) is using the ticket machines (which have English options) is
opposite the Trade Fair Centre and about 10 minutes by just as easy. If you’re running late, note that it is possible
taxi to the main square. The site of a massive 160 million to buy tickets onboard the train from the conductor for a
złoty redevelopment project over the last few years, a new small surcharge. Check the timetables online at the Polish
transportation centre has arisen alongside the old train railways website - rozklad.pkp.pl - which has good
station building, creating a strange clash of deep People’s English functionality; if you want a seat on a particular train,
Republic and shiny 21st century - the latter packaged in it is best to book ahead.
a breadbox shape, as critics have sneered - with train Taxis await you immediately outside, and a ride to the
platforms scattered confusingly between the two. Allow main square costs about 20-30zł. Alternatively, hop on
extra time to locate your train, and woe to those departing tram number 5 (to ‘Wrocławska’) or number 8 (to ‘Pl.
from the notoriously difficult to find platform 4a - reach it Wielkopolski’) from the ‘Most Dworcowy’ stop located on
by following platform 4 (in the old section) to the very end, the bridge, and you will only have a short 6-7 minute walk
away from the trade fair grounds. If you see 4b, you’ve gone to the main square; a 10-minute ticket will suffice. QD‑9,
in the wrong direction. ul. Dworcowa 2, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign
But back to the breadbox: modern and state-of-the- mobile phones), www.pkp.pl. Open 24hrs. Note that
art, it finally integrates rail, tram, and bus connections in due to system maintenance seat reservations cannot be
one squeaky clean transit station. As a result, this is now made between 24:00-01:00.
the point of entry for most visitors to the city, including
those arriving at the airport and taking the direct bus to
the centre, which drops off here. In this day and age, it’s
practically impossible for any new train station in Poland
to not come prepackaged with a shopping centre, and
that is certainly the case here: welcome to Avenida, a
shopping haven with a food court and parking for 900
cars, plus additional opportunities for consumerism and
refreshment spilling out into the train station hall. Other
now-standard amenities include lockers for large luggage
(have some coins handy), currency exchange, and bank
machines. The city of Poznań operates a tourist information
desk, but there’s also the PKP-operated Train Station Office © Tomasz Francuzik; courtesy of City of Poznań
16
Arrival & Transport
Alternatively, cut costs by catching a bus, which will get
you to the centre in 15-20 minutes. From the stop right
outside the entrance, line 59 heads to ‘Rondo Kaponiera’
and the main train station (Poznań Główny) at least three
times per hour from 05:05 to 24:00. At other times the
airport is connected to the train station by night bus 242,
which runs at 00:30, 01:30, 03:00, 04:00 daily; journey
time 20 mins to ‘Most Teatralny’. Single 40-minute tickets
(4.60zł) can be bought from kiosks, TI or ticket machines;
remember to validate your ticket immediately upon
boarding.Qul. Bukowska 285 (Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61 849
23 43, www.airport-poznan.com.pl.
17
Arrival & Transport
THE MALUCH BY CAR
Poland is one of Europe’s leading nations in road fatalities,
a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure
of getting behind the wheel here. A lethal combination of
poor road surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of
different traffic and, most of all, aggressive driver behaviour
result in the common sight of mangled wrecks around the
country. Exercise caution, keep a safe distance from the
vehicle in front, rub those rosary beads and God speed.
19
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Poznań Sightseeing
Crowded with cobbled streets, soaring steeples and
historical monuments, Poznań’s Old Town is a collage of
architectural styles and historical monuments, waiting to
be explored…
24
Sightseeing
A city of half a million with a history dating back to the
8th century, considered a likely site of the baptism of GUIDED TOURS
Polish ruler Mieszko I and thus the birthplace of the
Polish state, Poznań is the capital of the Wielkopolska If an authoritative print guide and expansive web
region and a popular business and tourism destination. portal simply aren’t enough, and you need someone
Its runs as the residence of early Polish kings, a medieval to literally take you by the hand (hey, we kid), there are
trade hub, Prussian-occupied Posen, a WWII Festung, plenty of tour companies to choose from in Poznań and
and finally its return to Poland created a city rife with we list the best of them here.
historical monuments, with much to offer those who enjoy CITY EVENT POZNAŃ
outstanding architecture and diverse cultural attractions. More from City Guide Poznań - going beyond walking
While part of the beauty of Poznań lies in aimlessly roaming tours and standard tourist itineraries, City Event Poznań
the streets and alleys, making chance findings from one organises multimedia city games, foodie and feast
turn to the next, there are a number of must-see sights tours, costumed performers, and more. Perfect for
whose discovery should not be left to chance. groups, school field trips, and team building.Qtel.
(+48) 608 28 42 08, www.cityevent-poznan.pl.
Your natural start point should be the Old Town, and its
main square, the glorious Stary Rynek; we make touring CITY GUIDE POZNAŃ
both easy with two sections beginning on the next page. Excellent local guides offering tours in English,
Along the way, make sure not to miss the gem of the Old German, Polish, Italian, Russian, French and Spanish to
Town, the Lesser Basilica of St. Stanislaus (p.33), which attractions throughout Poznań and beyond (the Piast
boasts an interior by a veritable who’s who of Roman Route). During Poland’s EU presidency, City Guides was
Baroque artists as well as a flamboyant pink facade, and chosen to show delegates of the European Commission
Poznań’s two castles, the Royal Castle (p.35), once the seat around the city - solid credentials indeed.Qtel. (+48)
of the first Polish kings, and the Imperial Castle (p.37), 608 28 42 08, www.cityguide-poznan.com.pl.
built as the residence of Prussian ruler Kaiser Wilhelm II in
1910. KULTOUR.PL
City guides offering tours of Poznań and the
Once done with the wonders of the Old Town, make your surrounding area. Languages spoken include German,
way across the river to the most important place of worship English, Russian, Ukrainian, Spanish, and even Japanese.
in Poznań, the Poznań Cathedral in Ostrów Tumski Please call in advance to book a tour.Qtel. (+48) 601
(p.38) with its twin towers and surrounding chapels. This is 87 16 61, www.kultour.pl.
the site connected with Mieszko’s baptism, a story which is VISITPOZNAŃ
now told in all its glory at Porta Posnania (p.38). VisitPoznan offers a wide variety of traditional and
alternative-themed walking tours for groups and
Poznań also boasts some glorious parks and green individuals during the warm season (roughly May-
spaces. Lake Malta (p.44), just east of the centre is one of October). All tours are by prior arrangement only.
the more unique urban leisure areas in the country, and Qtel. (+48) 663 03 62 95, www.visitpoznan.info.
offers loads of family activities for all seasons, including For groups 1-6 people 190zł/2hrs, 250zł/3hrs,
skiing, roller-coasters, and the New Zoo. Meanwhile, 340zł/5hrs; prices negotiable for larger groups.
just north of the Old Town lies Citadel Park (p.41) with
89 hectares of public greenery stuffed with interesting
monuments, and even two museums focussed on the
city’s military past. Get the In Your Pocket
Those with an interest in more recent history will no City Essentials App
doubt also appreciate museums dedicated to Poznań’s
two famous uprisings, the 1918 Wielkopolska Uprising
against Prussians (p.49) and the 1956 Uprising against
communist authorities (p.47), and the Wielkopolska
TOURIST INFORMATION
Martyrs Museum (p.49) housed in a former Gestapo penal TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE
camp. Qul. Bukowska 285 (Poznań Ławica Airport,
Grunwald), tel. (+48) 61 849 23 43, www.poznan.
Also keep an eye out on the multitude of cultural events travel.pl. Open 24 hours.
taking place in and around the city, especially in the
summer - we list the highlights in our events section TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE
starting on p.10. No matter how long your stay, you’ll find QD‑9, ul. Dworcowa 2 (Main Train Station), tel. (+48)
plenty in Poznań to keep your interest. Use our guide to 61 633 10 16, www.poznan.travel.pl. Open 09:00-
explore it all and enjoy one of Poland’s most ancient and 17:00.
exciting cities.
25
Stary Rynek Walking Tour
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Stary Rynek Walking Tour
Packed with monuments, landmarks, museums, and
mementos from the city’s rich history, Poznańs marvellous
Old Town Square warrants more than a passing glance and
smartphone pic. Faithfully reconstructed after the immense
damage of WWII, the Square can easily take a few hours to
properly explore and enjoy.
BOOK A TOUR
Pranger
27
Stary Rynek Walking Tour
3 BUDNICY HOUSES
MYTHOLOGICAL FOUNTAINS To the left of the Town Hall is perhaps the most recognisable
Poznań sight: the picture-book-worthy, technicolor row of
townhouses planted right in the middle of the Main Square.
Originally called “herring shops” (budy śledziowe), they were
home to merchants, and their arcades held fish, candle,
torch, and salt stands. They were later renamed to Budnicy
Houses (domki budnicze) in honour of a class of merchants
known as Budnicy, whose headquarters used to operate at
no. 117. Look closely and you’ll see their coat of arms on the
facade: three palm trees and a herring.QI‑7, Stary Rynek.
28
Stary Rynek Walking Tour
POZNAŃ STREET ART
For a long time, the height of Polish street art amounted
to scrawling less-print-friendly versions of “All Cops
Are Bastards” and “Lech Poznań 4ever” on residential
buildings and/or historical monuments in the dead
of night, while the ‘artist’s’ accomplices kept watch on
the street corner. Older Poles will also remember the
occasional party-sanctioned propaganda murals - not
the best connotation either. It was only around 2009-
2010 that quality outdoor art started rapidly gaining
ground in PL, spawning mural artists and street art
Arsenał City Gallery festivals throughout the country.
7 OD:ZYSK The local scene took off in 2011 with the first edition
The weirdest spot on the Old Market Square, this former of the Outer Spaces Festival, which saw renowned
squat is a testament to the city’s large anarchist presence. muralists from Italy, The Netherlands, Spain, and France
The late 19th century building on the square’s corner housed invited to spice up the drab exteriors of five carefully-
a succession of fashion stores, before it was abandoned by chosen buildings. The project was a hit, and two more
its owners sometime in the early 21st century, a signal editions were organised, adding a pop of optimism to
for the local anarchists to take over. The move took place Wilda and Jeżyce.
in late 2012, sparking conflict with city authorities; the
squatters used the space to host parties, concerts, and
various anarchist events while simultaneously housing
some fifty people in shabby conditions, which put the Old
Square’s peaceful touristy appeal in some jeopardy. It took
until 2015 for the two sides to come to an agreement: the
anarchists would move out in exchange for 125 thousand zł
(some 35 thousand USD), which would go towards helping
the city’s evictees and debtors. Since then, the graffitied
and postered building has stood empty, though there are
plans to eventually turn it into a posh hotel and restaurant.
This doesn’t mean that the anarchists have left the centre
completely; you’ll still find them running the Zemsta cafe
and bookstore and tagging city walls with leftist messages, 2017 mural by Maupal, ul. Nowowiejskiego 17 (G-6).
while their headquarters remain at ul. Rozbrat, just off
Pułaskiego.QH‑7, ul. Paderewskiego 2. Not everyone has opted for the legal route, however:
a certain Banksy-esque character operating under the
pseudonym Noriaki is responsible for an infestation
reminiscent of Wrocław’s ‘gnome problem,’ tagging
the city walls with variations of Pan Peryskop (Mr.
Periscope) AKA The Watcher - a loveable maverick
who has integrated himself into the fabric of the
city. Keep an eye out, and you’ll realise this watchful
rascal is ubiquitous, peering from walls, walking his
dog, playing b-ball, and getting passed-out drunk
depending on the circumstances. In the summer you
can even meet him at Perygród (p. 50), a street-art-
themed hangout.
29
Stary Rynek Walking Tour
8 GUARDHOUSE
This 18th-century police guardhouse was originally
haphazardly constructed using wood, and later redone in
classicist style by Jan Chrystian Kamsetzer in 1783-1787. In
the inter-war period, it served as a garrison jailhouse. Like
much of the Old Town, this structure was all but levelled
in the Battle of Poznań in 1945, and the building had to
be reconstructed in later years, serving as the Workers’
Movement Museum during communism. It currently Municipal Scales Building Photo by kwolana, CC BY-SA 4.0
houses the Wielkopolska Uprising Museum.QH‑7,
Stary Rynek 3. where you can also take a picture dressed as a Wielkopolska
soldier.QH‑7, Stary Rynek 3, tel. (+48) 61 853 19 93,
9 WIELKOPOLSKA UPRISING MUSEUM www.wmn.poznan.pl. Open 10:00-17:00; Sun 10:00-
Primarily chronicling the 1918-1919 Wielkopolska Uprising 16:00. Admission 10/5zł. Tue free.
(though the exhibition starts at the time of partition) this
museum occupies a rebuilt structure that once served 10 MUNICIPAL SCALES BUILDING
as home to the Royal Guard. A /big renovation ended in This cute, freestanding building on the Main Square almost
December 2017, taking the exhibition from a series of looks like something out of Hansel and Gretel. Originally
artefacts to a modern multimedia creation on par with constructed in 1534, it once housed hardware for weighing
the Silesian Museum in Katowice or the Warsaw Uprising merchandise on its way to the market. The little that
Museum in the nation’s capital (though much smaller, remains of the original furnishings is now located in the
of course). Downstairs is a mish-mash of weapons, Historical Museum, and the building itself is used by the
uniforms, reconstructed bunkers and trenches, and vintage city’s civil registry to issue marriage certificates.QH/I‑7,
photographs, which look great but fail to convey much Stary Rynek.
meaningful information; the historical info is all upstairs,
11 BAMBER MONUMENT
This small statue of a traditionally-dressed Bamber peasant
girl carrying jugs used in wine-making stands beside the
historical Municipal Scales building. Created by sculptor
Joseph Wackerle, who would later become Reich Culture
Senator and Hitler’s favourite artist, Bamberka was unveiled
in 1915 and originally stood over a well providing drinking
water for horses. This iconic monument commemorates
the Bambers, poor Catholic farmers from Bavaria (today
south-east Germany), who came to the Poznań area in the
hundreds in the early 18th century at the invitation of the
city authorities to help rebuild villages devastated by war
and plague. Known for the elaborate folk dresses worn by
women, this ethnic group quickly integrated into Polish
society, learning the language, identifying themselves as
Polish and fighting for Polish national causes. An important
contributor to Poznań’s history and culture, to find out
more about this unique ethnic group, visit the Poznań
Bamber Monument Photo by SuperGlob, CC BY 3.0 Bamber Museum (p.48).QI‑7, Stary Rynek.
30
TRADITIONAL POLISH CUISINE A.D.1954
WINNER
RATUSZOVA RESTAURANT
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33
Poznań Old Town Tour
3 NEW SYNAGOGUE
Consecrated on September 5, 1907, the New Synagogue
on ul. Wroniecka was once a much more lavish structure.
Designed by Berlin architects Cremer & Wolfenstein at a
cost of one million marks (to put things in perspective,
the cost of the Imperial Castle came to five million), the
synagogue boasted a floor plan based on the Greek cross,
space for 1,200 worshippers (600 men, 600 women), and
originally included a copper-plated dome. Following
the outbreak of WWII the building was commandeered
by the Nazis and redeveloped into a swimming pool
and rehabilitation centre for Wehrmacht soldiers. After
the war the synagogue continued to function as a
municipal pool - leading some to jokingly brand it the
New Synagogue Roweromaniak CC BY-SA 2.5 ‘swimagogue’ - until the poor state of the building forced
its closure. Returned to the Jewish community in 2002,
a gallery was opened instead, sporadically hosting free
ALPHAS exhibits. Though plans have been raised to adapt it
into a community centre complete with prayer halls,
Widely considered the buildings that ruined ul. Święty kosher restaurant, and conference facilities, the small
Marcin, the ‘Alphas’ are an architectural nightmare problem of raising what was once estimated at $50
from the deep People’s Republic, more due to their million USD (the number may be higher now) proved
current dishevelled state and unfortunate contrast with too large an obstacle. More recently, there has been talk
neighbouring townhouses than due to the actual design. of converting the building into an upscale hotel with a
These five modernist high-rises connected by a sprawling small commemorative museum, but it looks like those
two-level gallery with shops and services are actually plans have been put on hold as well, and the synagogue
very similar to the Hötorget buildings in Stockholm and currently stands empty, facing an uncertain future.QI‑6,
high-rises along Prager Straße in Dresden. Born a bit later ul. Wroniecka 11A.
than their counterparts in other countries, they were built
between 1965 and 1972, designed by Poznań architect
Jerzy Liśniewicz. To make room for this new ‘cosmopolitan’
complex, 19th century houses had to be torn down, but
the end result fulfilled its goals – it modernized the street
and drew communist-era masses, impoverished and
longing for more consumerist options, to its relatively
well-stocked shop windows. Recently, the stretch of ul.
Św. Marcin along the Alphas underwent a major overhaul,
and is now a more welcoming, pedestrian-oriented area
with outdoor art installations and a modest amount of
greenery, if the visualisations are to be believed. The Alphas
too are set for renovation, though complicating matters is
the fact that each has a different owner. We‘re keeping
our fingers crossed for results, as - for better or worse –
the Alphas remain one of Poznań’s most characteristic
structures.QF/G‑7, ul. Św. Marcin 40-72.
4 CITY FORTIFICATIONS
As a typical central European city, Poznań of course was
once snugly encircled by city walls and a moat, with four
gates guarding the passage into the narrow streets. Along
the walls rose a number of defensive towers named after
the guilds who were normally responsible for manning
them: there was the Wheelwright Tower, Butcher Tower,
and Cloth Tower, to name a few. Originally built sometime
in the 13th century, the fortifications were unfortunately
largely destroyed during the Swedish Deluge in the 17th
century and later invasions of the city, and what was left
was almost completely taken apart by the Prussians in
Photo by Radomil, CC BY-SA 3.0
the 19th and early 20th centuries to make room for new
building projects. One of those was a rather splendid neo-
34
Poznań Old Town Tour
Gothic fire station, which -
lovingly refurbished - survives
to this day at ul. Masztalarska
3. Passing through its
courtyard is a stretch of
reconstructed city wall and
two rebuilt towers: Baszta
Strażacka (Firefighter Tower,
not the original name), and
Baszta Katarzynek, once
part of a convent inhabited by
Dominican nuns (then known
as ‘Katarzynki’). Part of a third
The Old Fire Station on ul.
tower, Baszta Armatnia
Masztalarska 3 (H-7). (Artillery Tower) stands on
the Roman Wilhelmi Square.
Completed in 2008, the resurrected city fortifications are
a lovely place for a (short) stroll north of the main square.
QH‑6, Between Skwer Rabbina Akiwy Egera & Skwer
Romana Wilhelmiego. Royal Castle © stavrida | Dollar Photo Club
5 ROYAL CASTLE
Every European city worth its salt has a castle, and Poznań
STARY BROWAR
actually has two. Indeed, the 20th century ‘Zamek’ west of
Housed in an old brewery dating from 1844, the award-
the Old Town is neither Poznań’s oldest, nor most important
winning Stary Browar complex has been dubbed
castle. Wander just one block west of the market square and
an art, leisure, and shopping extravaganza, and its
you’ll find yourself at the foot of Góra Przemysła, crowned
success a sign of Poznań’s economic renaissance. Its
by Poznań’s former Royal Castle.
opening in 2003 also marked a successful move away
Once the pride of Poznań, the original construction was
from out-of-town developments, and a new trend
begun approximately 1249 by Przemysł I - Duke of the Piast
for inner-city regeneration projects. Originally home
dynasty who had chosen Poz as his capital. Work on the
to the Huggerów Brewery, the building produced
royal residence was continued by his son, and by the time
beer until 1980, then mineral water until 1998, when
Kazimierz the Great (a prince at the time) moved in in the
it was bought by the Fortis Group and a $66 million
early 14th century, Poznań’s Royal Castle was the largest
USD investment transformed it into the shopping and
non-ecclesiastical building in Poland. Its fortunes took a
entertainment Mecca it is today. Home to tonnes of
serious turn for the worse in early 18th century when it was
art and outstanding design details, Stary Browar also
sacked several times in quick succession by the Swedes, the
features a 5-Star hotel, dozens of restaurants, cafes, and
Russians, and then disgruntled nobles. Governor General
bars, and over 200 retail spaces, in which you’ll find
Kazimierz Raczyński restored the medieval buildings and
both name brands and popular chain stores.QG‑9,
created a state archive here in 1783 - a function it would
ul. Półwiejska 42, tel. (+48) 601 34 84 83, www.
serve until WWII. During the Siege of 1945, the castle had
starybrowar5050.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Fri 09:00
the misfortune of being in the line of fire with the Nazi
- 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
stronghold on Citadel Hill and that was that.
In 1959 the decision was taken to rebuild Raczyński’s
contribution to the hill, which today houses the Applied
Arts Museum. Until recently, the Castle’s rich historical
value as the seat of early Polish royalty, numerous royal
births, weddings, and treaty signings seems to have been
undervalued, but that’s in the past now. Between 2010
and 2016 the castle underwent a total restoration, and is
now fully open, including the castle tower, observation
decks, and Prince Przemysł I Hall.QH‑7, Góra Przemysła.
Admission 12/8zł. Tue free.
BOOK A TOUR
Photo by Jakub Wittchen
35
Poznań Old Town Tour
6 FRANCISCAN CHURCH
Built in the years 1674-1728, there’s seemingly not much to
this church just off the market square. Hidden behind the
bland exterior, however, is an absolute explosion of Baroque
over-indulgence, with colourful carved wood, stucco, and
paintings by local monk Adam Swach. His brother, Antoni,
designed the high altar and ornamented stalls, which
literally jump out at you in their bright flamboyance. It’s a
spectacle worth seeing, but visitors also flock to this church
to see the Marian shrine, which has housed a famous
picture of the Miracle-Working Virgin Mary, also known as
the Lady of Poznań, for 300 years.QH‑7, ul. Franciszkańska
2, tel. (+48) 61 852 36 37, www.poznan.franciszkanie.pl.
Open 06:30-19:00.
7 PLAC WOLNOŚCI
Though it is difficult to imagine now, Poznań’s large and
typically empty ‘Freedom Square’ was once the heart of the
city - a favourite spot of the upper classes for strolls and
coffee. Originally named Wilhelmsplatz (William’s Square)
in honour of King Frederick William III of Prussia, it was
demarcated by the city’s new Prussian authorities at the
very end of the 18th century, soon after Poland was wiped
off the map by the three partitioning forces of Prussia,
Russia, and Austria-Hungary. The main reason for a square
this large? Big-headed higher-ups needed a representative
Franciscan Church Photo by Mikołaj Borowicz. Courtesy of City of Poznań space capable of containing an entire infantry regiment
during military parades. In the years leading up to the
NEON ART Great War the square underwent numerous changes,
as Polish and Prussian institutions vied for space and
influence, encircling the space with buildings designed
according to the latest architectural fashion; those included
St. Adalbert’s Publishing House (now St. Adalbert’s
Bookstore aka Księgarnia Św. Wojciecha, no. 1), the Haase
Department Store (no. 4), the Brandt Department Store
(no. 8), the Raczyński Library (no. 19), the Provincial
Museum in Posen (now a National Museum building, Al.
POZNAŃ NIGHTINGALES NEON Marcinkowskiego 9), and Bazar Hotel (Al. Marcinkowskiego
This playful neon art, portraying a flock of colourful 10). A monument to the 1866 Prusso-Austrian Battle
nightingales sitting on a five-line music staff and of Nachod popped up, as did a figure of King Wilhelm
lighting up in rapid succession, has been installed on III; both were torn down triumphantly when Poznań
the facade of the Philharmonic to honour its “Poznań returned to Polish hands following WWI, and the square
Nightingales” choir. Founded in the early days of WWII was given its current name. It wouldn’t last; after a blissful
by a nineteen-year-old named Stefan Stuligrosz, the 20 interwar years, during which the square functioned as
men’s and boys’ choir initially staged underground the cultural centre of Poznań, the square was dug open
performances in Poznań churches as an act of with trenches in preparation for WWII, and soon German
resistance against Nazi occupation. After the war they forces once again marched in, renaming the square - you
were taken under the wing of the Philharmonic, with guessed it - Wilhelmsplatz. After the war (and another
Stuligrosz acting as the choir’s artistic director as well as name change), Plac Wolności was rebuilt according to
the president of the Poznań Music Academy. The neon the concept of Milewski and Skupniewicz, with trees cut
was created in 1974 by Antoni Rzyski and symbolises down and a Hygieia statue (which had been placed on
Stuligrosz (the yellow nightingale at the bottom of the the square in 1908 to commemorate the expansion of the
staff, whose light doesn’t flicker off ) and his singers. city waterworks) moved in front of the Raczyński Library.
It’s worth to note that the Poznań Nightingales are of In 2005 a large underground parking lot was added, and
no relation to the Polish Nightingales, another Poznań in 2012 Freedom Square’s most recognizable landmark
choir which has been implicated in a horrific child was unveiled - the Freedom Fountain (Fontanna Wolności),
abuse scandal - just in case you were wondering.QF-7, a geometric structure with two 10-metre wings (or sails)
ul. Św. Marcin 81. made out of glass. Nowadays the square is the go-to for
protests and demonstrations.QG/H‑7, Plac Wolności.
36
Poznań Old Town Tour
9 IMPERIAL CASTLE
More a palace than a ‘castle,’ work began on Poznań’s
fearsome ‘Zamek’in 1905 to serve as the provincial residence
of Kaiser Wilhelm II. Designed in the neo-Romanesque style
by Franz Schwechten, the west wing held Wilhelm’s living
quarters, the east wing his immaculate throne room, with
the northern part of the complex consisting of service
rooms and beautiful gardens based on the Alhambra’s
Courtyard of the Lions. The Kaiser got the keys in 1910 but
didn’t stay long before WWI and the following Wielkopolska
Uprising resulted in a Polish Poznań once again. Between
the wars the Zamek became the seat of Poznań University,
before the Third Reich swooped in and Albert Speer, Hitler’s
pet architect, transformed the tower chapel into the
Fuehrer’s office, and the second floor into the residence of
Plac Wolności Arthur Greiser (Nazi governor of the district). The castle was
badly damaged during the Soviet liberation and there was
8 OKRĄGLAK even a post-war campaign to have the structure bulldozed.
Looking for remnants of the People’s Republic? Cast your In the end the drastic measures stopped with reducing the
camera to the western end of ul. Grudnia (A-2), where the principal tower to a third of its original height.
imposing Okrąglak (Rotunda) presides over a four-point
intersection. This cylindrical marvel is one of Poznań’s
defining icons and has been a listed building since 2003.
Constructed between 1948 and 1954 this beast is a leading
example of Polish modernism, built to a blueprint by Marek
Leykam. Originally slated to be ten storeys, this eight floor
masterpiece once housed Poznań’s top department store,
and it was here that during the lean years of communism
locals would queue to buy ‘luxury’ products unavailable
elsewhere. After years of abject neglect, in 2011-2012 the
Okrąglak was restored and converted into 51,000 square
metres of A-class office space.QF‑7, ul. Mielżyńskiego 14.
Just north-east of the centre of Poznań sits Ostrów Tumski 1 PORTA POSNANIA INTERACTIVE HERITAGE
(Cathedral Island) - the island where Poznań was founded, CENTRE OF CATHEDRAL ISLAND
and “where Poland began” in the words of Pope John Paul II. Opened in early 2014, this modern culture complex
According to the prolific legend, three Slav brothers known as symbolically connects Poznań’s two oldest districts
Lech, Czech and Rus met on this tiny island after not seeing - Ostrów Tumski and Śródka - via a covered ‘skywalk’
each other for many years. To commemorate their reunion the bridge between the main exhibition building and
brothers named the place ‘Poznać,’ after the Polish word for ‘to the Cathedral Lock - a restored section of the former
meet.’ From there the island thrived, with a castle erected in Prussian river fortifications. The main building is
the 9th century and Ostrów Tumski becoming a major centre actually on the Śródka side of the Cybina River, and
of the Piast state. More than a millennium ago one of Poland’s presents the fascinating history of the area from
first rulers, Mieszko I, ushered the country into Catholicism medieval times to the modern day, with a dollop of
here and soon after the first bishopric was established in 968. Polish-Catholic propaganda, via a rather gimmicky
The first iteration of the Cathedral of Poznań was built in the combo of audioguide and interactive multimedia
second half of the 10th century, and in the island’s thousand- displays. The touring route concludes by leading
year history it has been home to kings and bishops alike. visitors across the ‘skywalk’ straight into Ostrów
Remains of 19th century Prussian fortifications are still visible Tumski itself, making this the ideal starting point for
on the Cybina riverside, easily viewable from the Jordan exploring the district. Audioguides are available in
Bridge (I-3). In more recent times the Communists showed English, German, French, Spanish, Czech, Russian, and
their disdain for the Catholic Church’s heavy presence in Ukrainian, with three specially designed audiotour
Poznań by building a road across the island that bisected the routes - one for individuals, one for groups, and one
Archbishop’s garden (what jerks!). for families - that make the experience worthwhile
for everyone, especially kids. Topping it off is a
A trip to Ostrów Tumski not only makes a peaceful respite souvenir shop and a lovely rooftop terrace (open
from the tackiness and tourist noise of Stary Rynek, but also during the warm season only) that offers unique
serves as an important crash course on early Polish history views of Poznań Cathedral and the surrounding
and Poznań’s role in the country’s birth as a nation. Taking area. QL‑6, ul. Gdańska 2, tel. (+48) 61 647 76 34,
that task on as its very mission, in fact, is the new Porta www.bramapoznania.pl. Open 09:00-18:00; Sat,
Posnania Centre, which straddles the river (with its own Sun 10:00-19:00; closed Mon. Admission for the
bridge) between Ostrów Tumski and Śródka, and should be permanent exhibition 18/12zł. Family ticket (up to
considered the mandatory starting point for all visitors before 5 people) 36zł. Group tickets (from 10 people) 11zł
carrying on to the magnificent Poznań Cathedral itself. per person. Audio guide 5/3zł. U
38
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Peter & Paul Cathedral, more commonly called ‘Poznań Cathedral floor to cover the entrances to tombs, but were
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Cathedral,’ which ‘Cathedral Island’ takes its name from. later mounted on pillars and chapel walls. Stolen during
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Originally erected way, way back in 968, this was the the war, the slabs were returned to Poznań in 1993 and
first cathedral in Poland, and has had a storied history. are back on display.
As it was razed, rebuilt, and remodelled numerous times Visit the vestry to request entry to the crypt, where you’ll
over the centuries, each resulted in the addition of a new see evidence of the pre-Romanesque and Romanesque
architectural style: a 1622 fire led to a Baroque finish, versions of the Cathedral, and a 10th century baptismal
while a 1722 fire ushered in a change to neo-Classicism. font most likely used to baptise the first Polish sovereign
During the 1945 battle to liberate Poznań, 65 percent of and his subjects. Excavations here also unearthed two
the Cathedral again burned down, exposing the building’s tombs, most likely of the first Polish monarchs Mieszko
buried Gothic elements and leading to its restoration in the I and King Bolesław Chrobry. The second crypt houses
style visitors see today. an exhibition of artefacts found during the excavation,
The interior is a trove of sacral and historical treasures, and it also leads to the crypt of the Poznań archbishops.
surrounded by twelve different chapels, including Be aware that while the lights in the crypt work for free
the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament, which has several (no coins!), they are motion-activated, so if you stand
outstanding examples of Renaissance art (the tombstones and look too long, you’ll suddenly end up in the dark.
of the Górka family and Bishop Benedykt Izbieński, to QK‑6, Ostrów Tumski 17, tel. (+48) 61 852 96 42, www.
be specific) and the Baroque altar houses a miraculous katedra.archpoznan.pl. Open 09:00-17:00. Crypt closed
crucifix brought to the Cathedral from the former on Sundays. Admission 4/3zł.
Wrocławska town gate. The Golden Chapel was designed
as the mausoleum of the first Polish monarchs and houses
the sarcophagi of Kings Mieszko I and Bolesław Chrobry;
the two kings are also depicted in a bronze monument
together, above which is a painting by January Suchodolski
showing Mieszko I, the instigator of Catholicism in Poland,
destroying pagan idols. The chapel is indeed thoroughly
golden, but to fully admire the glitz you must drop a coin
into an absurd contraption, whereupon the illumination
will come on.
The eye-catching high altar at the centre of the Cathedral
is a 14th/15th polyptych depicting Our Lady surrounded
by 14 female saints, while the outer wings feature
eight paintings depicting the Passion of the Christ. The
Cathedral’s lavish Baroque pulpit is equally stunning
and dates to 1720. Also worth noting are the Cathedral’s
five Gothic and early Renaissance bronze tomb slabs, Photo by Łukasz Gdak
39
Ostrów Tumski
3 CHURCH OF THE VIRGIN MARY
ŚRÓDKA This small Gothic church was built in 1432-1448 and
is modelled on the West Pomeranian building style,
with a three-nave hall, star vaulting, and polychromatic
decorations. The altar was designed by Wacław
Taranczewski in 1954. The adjoining building with the
crowstep gables is a Late Gothic Psalteria, dating to 1518,
which contained flats for the clergy. Unfortunately the
church is closed for renovation until late 2019, so it is
presently impossible to get inside.QK‑6, ul. Panny Marii,
tel. (+48) 61 852 96 42, www.katedra.archpoznan.pl.
4 ARCHDIOCESE MUSEUM
Adjacent to the Cathedral is the large Lubrański Academy
building, once home to Bishop Jan Lubrański’s institute of
higher learning and today the Museum of the Archdiocese.
The first floor is devoted to temporary exhibits, while the
next two floors are filled with all manner of religious art
Mural on Rynek Śródecki (L-6)
and relics, including the Sword of Saint Peter, numerous
Once you’ve explored Ostrów Tumski, the next natural statues and paintings of the Madonna, Jesus, and various
step is to cross the red Jordan Bridge over into the saints, plus well-preserved robes and heavily-bejewelled
ancient - and irresistibly cute - Śródka neighbourhood. rings from Poznan’s long line-up of bishops. QK‑6, ul.
Lubrańskiego 1, tel. (+48) 61 852 61 95, www.muzeum.
Once its own town, Śródka was named in honour of its poznan.pl. Open 10:00-17:00; Sat 09:00-15:00; closed
weekly Wednesday market (‘Środa’ means ‘Wednesday’ Sun, Mon. Admission 10/7zł, family ticket 17zł. N
in Polish), and records suggest the small enclave had
urban features and its own autonomous government 5 GENIUS LOCI ARCHEOLOGICAL PARK
as early as the mid-1200s. The presence of Dominican Genius Loci gives a different view on Poznań’s medieval
monks, along with the regular market, gave Śródka genesis by unearthing, reconstructing, and offering insight
prominence in the area, which unfortunately didn’t into the lives of those early individuals who inhabited
last long; the monks picked up and moved across the island one thousand years ago. Explore multimedia
the Warta River, and Przemysł II (who subsequently displays and documentary films, and brave the glass
became King of Poland) turned the city over to the walkways while peering down at the city’s original walls
control of the Bishopric in the 13th century. Suddenly and embankments. The audioguide (included in the
reduced to the role of supplier to Ostrów Tumski, price) comes in both Polish and English and helps explain
Śródka would continue to slide in prominence as the how Poznań took shape centuries ago.QK‑6, ul. Ks. I.
nearby city of Poznań grew. Śródka had a revitalization Posadzego 3, tel. (+48) 61 852 21 67, www.rezerwat.
of sorts in the 17th century when orders of Phillippines muzarp.poznan.pl. Open 10:00-16:00; Fri, Sat 10:00-
and Reformists swept in and established churches and 18:00; Sun 10:00-15:00; closed Mon. Admission 6/4zł,
residences in the city, yet Śródka was nonetheless family ticket 10zł. Sun free.
absorbed into Poznań in 1800. During Prussian times
the city was part of a fortified zone that didn’t improve
its fate, nor did the regular occurrence of floods and
fires. During World War II much of the city’s centre at
Rynek Śródecki (the location around St. Margaret’s
Church) was destroyed, and the arrival of the
People’s Republic of Poland, which slapped a garish
highway across the Archbishop’s gardens and Ostrów
Tumski, didn’t improve the area either. But much like
Ostrówek, Śródka is slowly experiencing a noticeable
revitalization.
40
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GETTING THERE
If the weather is nice there’s no reason not to walk to
Citadel Park from the Rynek. The stroll is just under 2km
and should take 25-30 minutes. Those who prefer an
(arguably) quicker route can grab bus number 174, 176,
190, or 603 from ‘Wielka’ to ‘Garbary’.
WWII destruction
42
Citadel Park
2 THE BELL OF PEACE AND FRIENDSHIP
AMONG NATIONS
Erected in 1986, the ‘Bell of Peace and Friendship Among
Nations’ was installed too late to spare Poznań from a
largely turbulent 20th century, but it plays a role in the
remembering when it’s rung on holidays and anniversaries
such as Liberation Day (February 23rd) when the Germans
capitulated at the fort during World War II. Weighing 850
kg, the dove-embossed bell hangs 10m above the ground
and can allegedly be heard from 10km away.QI‑4, Park
Cytadela.
5 MUSEUM OF ARMAMENTS
The remains of this Prussian fort (which was used as a
war laboratory to produce gunpowder and shells during
World War II) prove to be the perfect location for the
Museum of Armaments, which features displays of various
weaponry and ammunition as well as photos of battles
from Poznań’s history. Most interesting for military buffs
however is the outdoor exhibition laden with a whole
host of war machinery including a T-34 tank, a ‘Katyusha’
rocket launcher, bombers and a MIG-15.QH‑3, Park Archiwum Urzędu Miasta Poznania, photo D. Krakowiak
43
Lake Malta
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Lake Malta
Of Poznań’s many lakes it’s Malta - to the east - that is the
best known, and its surroundings are well worth further GETTING TO LAKE MALTA
investigation. Formed in 1952 as a result of damming the
Cybina, this 2.2km long lake is the largest man-made lake in Lake Malta is situated just to the east of the city centre,
the city, with an average depth of 3.1 metres. Surrounded by and Rondo Śródka - at the lake’s northwest corner,
parks and woodland, it is today one of the principal recreation is the best place to access it. Below are the public
areas in the region - in both summer and winter - with an ice- transport options from three main points in the centre.
rink, ski slope (the first in former communist Europe), a world- Alternatively, a taxi from the centre to the north shore
class regatta course, zoo, water park, and dozens of other will cost about 30-35zł.
attractions, including several historical sights. Just east of the
centre, but miles from the madness of the market square, if From the main train station (D-9): Take tram number
you’re in town to decompress, head to Malta. 6 from the ‘Poznań Główny’ stop (walk just past the
Avenida shopping centre going east) directly to
ADRENALINE ALPINE COASTER ‘Baraniaka’. The journey takes about 14 minutes.
A 500 metre long roller coaster filled with twisting loops
(even a 360 degree twist) that hauls screaming visitors From the Old Town Square: Take tram number 3,
around the track at 40km per hour.Qul. Wiankowa 2, 16, or 17 from either ‘Pl. Wielkopolski’ (H-6) or ‘Małe
tel. (+48) 501 35 51 53, www.maltaski.pl. Open 10:00- Garbary’ (I-6) to ‘Rondo Śródka’.QM‑6.
21:00. Opening hours depend on the weather. 1 ride in a
1-person cart 10zł; 3 rides 20zł. 1 ride in a 2-person cart
15zł; 3 rides 30zł. MALTA SKI OUTDOOR PLAYGROUND
Wooden playground with slides, mazes, and obstacles.
LAKE MALTA CAROUSEL Opening hours are weather-dependent.Qul. Wiankowa 2,
This 8-metre-tall, retro-style swing carousel seats 32 tel. (+48) 501 35 51 53, www.maltaski.pl. Open 10:00-
dizziness enthusiasts ages 6 and up.Qul. Wiankowa 2, tel. 21:00. Admission free.
(+48) 501 35 51 53, www.maltaski.pl. Open 10:00-21:00.
Opening hours depend on the weather. Admission 8zł. MALTA SKI PONTOON HIRE
Our first thought was boat rental, but nope, that would
be too conventional for Lake Malta. This what happens to
Poz’s 70m artificial ski slope in summer (May to the end of
September to be exact) - people go speeding down it in
plastic inner tubes.Qul. Wiankowa 2, tel. (+48) 501 35 51
53, www.maltaski.pl. Open 10:00-21:00. Opening hours
depend on the weather. 1 ride 5zł; 3 rides 10zł.
45
Lake Malta
MALTESE BATHS
LAKE RUSAŁKA Located on the north shore of Lake Malta this year-
round facility offers sport pools (one Olympic-
sized and another with a 10-metre diving tower), a
water park (a series of 16 pools including a wave
pool and children’s play pool), and 13 water slides
along with two wild rivers. There is also the World of
Saunas (14 saunas, two of which are outdoors, and a
vapour bath) and, most recently, a full spa complex
(Spa 1306) with underground thermal springs,
offering therapeutic and beauty baths including
Turkish Hammam and Rasul mud bath, massage,
hydromassage, rehabilitation, Pollogen slimming
and rejuvenating treatments, and more from the fully
If lakes Malta and Rusałka were siblings (and in a sense trained staff.QP‑8, ul. Termalna 1, tel. (+48) 61 222
they are), Rusałka would be the athletic and attention- 61 61, www.termymaltanskie.com.pl. Open 06:00-
seeking Malta’s mysteriously beautiful and slightly in- 23:00, Sun 07:00-23:00; SPA open 10:00-21:00, Sat,
troverted sister. Indeed, the lake’s very name - derived Sun 09:00- 21:00. Prices start at 9zł for sports pools
from Slavic mythology and denoting a water nymph or and water spark, 15zł for spa.
mermaid - belies the area’s natural wonder and allure.
While Lake Malta is favoured by families and sports- THE NEW ZOO
men, the slightly smaller Rusałka (36.7 hectares) has The 116 hectare New Zoo was opened to the public in
long been favoured by naturalists and fishermen, hik- 1974 after seven years of construction. Housing over
ers, cyclists, and photographers, and is characterised 2,000 beasts representing 140 species, it’s comprised of 60
by 3,300 metres of largely wooded coastline woven percent pine and mixed forests with a man-made stream
with intimate walking paths, ancient trees (a group of and string of ponds running through the grounds. In this
which near the north shore are a designated natural way many of the creatures live in recreations of their natural
monument), misty streams, and several forgotten war habitats rather than concrete pens. Highlights include the
memorials. Like Lake Malta, Rusałka is a man-made modern elephant house, and circling the whole shebang
reservoir initiated during WWII, but in contrast to her is a seasonal mini-railway, meaning visitors can jump off at
younger brother, Rusałka’s shores are almost entirely whatever creature cage takes their fancy.
devoid of commercial development and provide a
unique opportunity to immerse oneself in a natural As the zoo is located beyond the far east end of Lake
setting without leaving the city centre. Malta (not actually on the lake), during the summer you
That’s not to say that this old girl doesn’t know how to can get there by taking the Maltanka mini-railway to the
have fun, however. In summertime a designated section last stop ‘Zwierzyniec’. If coming from the centre of Poz,
of the northern coast becomes Poznań’s most popular take tram 3, 4, 8, or 17 from ‘Plac Wielkopolski’ to ‘Rondo
swimming and sun-bathing destination, overseen by Śródka’, then change to bus 184, getting off at ‘Nowe
lifeguards and offering water sports equipment rental ZOO’. Alternatively, a taxi from the centre costs about 30zł.
and a children’s playground. The beachside Rusałka Qul. Krańcowa 81 (Nowe Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 877
restaurant, while quite low-rated (visit at your own risk), 35 17, www.zoo.poznan.pl. Open 9:00-19:00. March-
serves as a back-up plan for those who forgot to bring October admission Mon-Fri 18/10zł, Sat-Sun 24/12zł;
their own snacks. family ticket (2 adults and 4 kids) 35zł Mon-Fri, 50zł
If you prefer to wander a bit, nearby points of interest Sat-Sun. UY
include Park Sołacki - which leads directly into Lake
Rusałka’s eastern shore - and the Botanical Garden
on the southern shore. For those fascinated by
Poland’s painful past, Rusałka also conceals several
unkempt WWII-era memorials and mausoleums, and
the Wielkopolska Martyrs Museum (p.49) is within
walking distance of the south shore. If your interests
include nature, history, or photography, escape the Old
Town and explore Rusałka’s natural charms and dark
secrets. You’d be wise to pick up a map of the area from
tourist information (p.25), wear comfortable shoes, and
off you go. To get here by public transportation we
recommend using jakdojade.pl to plan your journey.
www.termymaltanskie.com.pl
46
Museums
1956 UPRISING MUSEUM Open 11:00-17:00; Fri 12:00-21:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-
The Zamek is an impressive building alright, but pride of 18:00; closed Mon. Admission 12/1-8zł. Tue free. N
place goes to the 1956 Uprising exhibition, honouring
the first armed resistance the communist regime ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM
faced. Hidden down a side entrance, this basement Housed in the beautiful 16th-century Górka Palace,
masterpiece features stretchers used to carry the Poznań’s Archaeology Museum contains a collection
wounded, a tank, a display of arms and rifles, a room of of 42,000 rare and mystifying objects that chart life in
Socialist propaganda posters, a typical Poznań family’s North Africa and prehistoric Poland. The first part of the
flat from the 1950s and a direct copy of a detention cell. museum takes you through the earliest settlements in
Most poignant of all, though, is the space set aside for 13 the region, with life-sized figures as well as miniature
year old Roman Strzałkowski, the youngest to die in the dioramas depicting life from the Stone Age to the Iron
troubles. Exhibits include his harmonica and domino set, Age. The other permanent exhibits include ‘Death and
and newspaper clippings showing Strzałkowski picking Life in Ancient Egypt,’ ‘Archeology of Sudan,’ and ‘Rock Art
up prizes for his piano skills.QF‑7, ul. Św. Marcin 80/82, of North Africa.’QI‑7, ul. Wodna 27 (Pałac Górków), tel.
tel. (+48) 61 852 94 64, www.wmn.poznan.pl. Open (+48) 61 852 82 51, www.muzarp.poznan.pl. 1 Jul - 31
10:00-17:00; Sun 10:00-16:00. Admission 8/5zł. Tue Aug: 10:00-17:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 12:00-16:00;
free. U closed Mon. Admission 8/4zł, family ticket 20zł. Sat free.
Guided tours by prior arrangement 70zł. Free audio
APPLIED ARTS MUSEUM guides avaliable in English. U
Housed in the Royal Castle of Poznań, this museum has
recently undergone huge changes which shifted the ARCHDIOCESE MUSEUM
focus from medieval craftwork and princely decorations See Ostrów Tumski, p.40.QK‑6, ul. Lubrańskiego 1,
exclusively to applied arts, rolling out a 2000-piece tel. (+48) 61 852 61 95, www.muzeum.poznan.pl.
exhibition of furniture, fabrics, ceramics, glassware, Open 10:00-17:00; Sat 09:00-15:00; closed Sun, Mon.
weaponry, and clothing from around the world. For Admission 10/7zł, family ticket 17zł. N
those more interested in the actual history of the
place, we recommend skipping the arts and checking
out the (sparse) ground-floor exhibition dedicated to Get the In Your Pocket
the castle and its founder, Duke Przemysł II, as well
as climbing the seasonally-open tower.QH‑7, Góra City Essentials App
Przemysła 1, tel. (+48) 61 852 20 35, www.mnp.art.pl.
47
Museums
LITERARY MUSEUM OF HENRYK SIENKIEWICZ
Winner of the 1905 Nobel Prize in Literature, Sienkiewicz is
best known internationally as the author of Quo Vadis, a
birth-of-Christianity epic that has been translated into 50
languages. This museum dedicated to his legacy is located
in a house that once belonged the Italian architect Jean
Baptiste Quadro (that’s his bust you can see outside), and
the collection is the life work of Ignacy Moś, who started
collecting Sienkiewicz memorabilia after helping to free
Sienkiewicz’s only son from the Gestapo. The exhibition
includes the author’s Lennon-style specs, post-mortem Wielkopolska Martyrs Museum Photo by Craig Broadbent
facial and hand casts, correspondences, and a collection of
his novels including an English version of Quo Vadis dating NATIONAL MUSEUM
from 1899.QH‑7, Stary Rynek 84, tel. (+48) 61 852 89 71, A large and excellent museum with a rich collection of
www.bracz.edu.pl. Open 09:00-17:00; Sat 09:00-16:00; modern Polish art (including interesting Impressionist
closed Mon, Sun. Admission 4/2zł, Sat free. N works) in the new wing, and medieval art, impressive Italian,
Dutch, and Flemish paintings in the connected old building.
MODELS OF POZNAŃ The museum also holds the largest collection of Spanish
A huge model that shows Poznań in its form as presented art (including Zurbaran and Ribera) in Poland and plenty
in Brau-Hogenburg’s illustration sketched in 1618. of Polish art from the 16th century onwards. In addition,
Constructed over a period of six years the model takes a Monet painting stolen in 2000 was recently recovered
up a space of 50m2 and is built on a scale of 1:150. The and is back on display. Selected paintings have extensive
decorative details are impressive, and you can expect lots of English explanations about the artist and topic.QH‑7, Al.
kids as well as anoraked model enthusiasts pulling up the Marcinkowskiego 9, tel. (+48) 61 856 80 00, www.mnp.
school seats around it as they wait for the show to begin. art.pl. Open 11:00-17:00; Fri 12:00-21:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-
As the lights dim a recorded commentary begins and 18:00; closed Mon. Admission 12/1-8zł, Sat free. N
visitors are taken through the area-by-area story of Poznań’s
development. Foreigners are given headsets broadcasting PORTA POSNANIA INTERACTIVE HERITAGE
heavily accented commentary in the language of their CENTRE OF CATHEDRAL ISLAND
choice, though this is at times drowned out by hilarious See Ostrów Tumski, p.38. QL‑6, ul. Gdańska 2, tel. (+48)
background noise that includes medieval soldiers 61 647 76 34, www.bramapoznania.pl. Open 09:00-
screaming in agony. The museum’s other models include 18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-19:00; closed Mon. Admission for
Poznań in the 10th century and a touchable model of the the permanent exhibition 18/12zł. Family ticket (up to
main square aimed at blind visitors.QH‑7, ul. Ludgardy 1, 5 people) 36zł. Group tickets (from 10 people) 11zł per
tel. (+48) 61 855 14 35, www.makieta.poznan.pl. Open person. Audio guide 5/3zł. U
11:00-17:00. Admission 19zł. N
POZNAŃ BAMBER MUSEUM
MUSEUM OF ARMAMENTS Learn about the Bamber people, ethnic Germans from
See Citadel Park, p.43.QH‑3, Park Cytadela, tel. (+48) Bamberg who settled in Poznań in the 18th century, inside a
61 820 45 03, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.poznan. mildly interesting museum that includes a 19th century timber
pl. Open 10:00-17:00; Sun 10:00-16:00; closed Mon. house once owned by a wealthy Bamber farmer. Inside displays
Admission 10/5zł. Tue free. Guided English-language include old bonnets, looms, paintings, clothing, and timber
tour 60zł. Tickets bought either here or at the Poznań furniture – everything you’d expect in an ethnographic museum
Army Museum are valid for both museums. - but very little written information.QJ‑8, ul. Mostowa 7/9, tel.
(+48) 605 62 16 11, www.bambrzy.poznan.pl. Open Fri, Sat
only 10:00-14:00. Admission free. U
49
Summer in the City
Want to know what the locals are up to during hot summer months?
Here are our recommendations for stepping off the tourist trail and
making the most of the weather, Poznań style.
PERYGRÓD
Open till the end of September. Spend a bit of time wandering
around Poznań, and you will no doubt become familiar with
Pan Peryskop, AKA the Watcher, a loveable one-eyed maverick
created by street artist Noriaki. Perygród is one place where the
little dude can feel fully at home, safe from municipal workers’
paint rollers and power washes - this outdoor bar / party space /
concert venue has been designed around its namesake character,
with the needs of local hipsters and cool hunters firmly in mind.
QI‑6, ul. Szewska 8, tel. (+48) 519 16 14 91. Open 19:00-01:00;
closed Mon, Tue. BE6
KONTENERART
Open till the end of September. One of Poznań’s most original
spots, the seasonal KontenerART occupies a stretch of grass near
the Warta River that makes finding it feel like a drink-worthy
achievement. It’s worth the trouble - after all, where else can
you drink in a stack of shipping containers surrounded by an
artificial beach and ‘art’ installations that stretch the definition
of the word? A welcome and unique summer alternative to
pubs and clubs in the Old Town.QK‑8, ul. Ewangelicka (on the
Warta River between Chrobrego and Rocha bridges), www.
kontenerart.pl. Open 12:00-02:00. BE6
50
venture! Poland
y o u r o w n a d In Your Pocket
Choose Shop
iyp.me/polandshop
CITADEL PARK
Despite a harrowing military past, the 89 hectare Citadel Park
north of the Old Town is one of the most peaceful places to hang
out during the warm season. Wander around the sprawling Rose
Garden, plan a picnic, or seek out the beer garden of Umberto
(p.76), which has been populated with deck chairs for lounging
in the shade. Those who want to be a bit more active can check
out the Poznań Army Museum and the Museum of Armaments,
located in what were once fortifications, or ponder life and
death in the Soviet and British military cemeteries. For more
information, turn to p.41.
51
Cafés
CAFE LA RUINA I RAJ NEW siphon; boxes of equipment are displayed on the back wall
Now merged with its sister venue Raj (once situated side- and available for sale, as are coffee beans. The dedication
by-side in the Śródka district), La Ruina is much more shows: their coffee was among the best we’ve tasted, so
bustling, but just as quirky, with a busy interior filled with give it a go if you’re a caffeine enthusiast. Light breakfast
travel mementos and art. The main draw for coffee lovers is is served as well.QG‑7, ul. Franciszka Ratajczaka 31, tel.
strong Vietnamese coffee with condensed milk, but other (+48) 789 23 39 65, www.craftcoffee.pl. Open 08:00-
offerings include Austrian herbal lemonade Almdudler, 21:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-20:00. TU6
Moroccan mint tea, Brazilian caipirinhas, and Vietnamese
coconut water.QG‑7/8, ul. Święty Marcin 34, tel. (+48) MINISTER CAFE
666 15 25 55. Open 12:00-21:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-22:00. Ministerstwo Browaru has earned itself quite a reputation
TU6 and is the perfect pub to find a healthy mixture of expats,
business types, and tourists enjoying one of the best
INNA PIEKARNIA selection of beers in Poz. But its sister venue - Minister CAFE
The ‘Different Bakery’ indeed isn’t your run-of-the-mill - has also earned a faithful following and it’s easy enough
bread and pączki shop. Though the space certainly could to see why. The self-professed ‘cafe for those who like
have been furnished in a more effective way - it reads a beer’ offers a trendy, laid-back interior (white tiles, wood,
bit sparse and unfinished as is, though the rainforest-theme stainless steel), two beer gardens, and a creative menu of
back wall is insta-worthy - the buttery croissants, soft-but- burgers, cake, and beer snacks that will leave you watching
crunchy rolls, and scrumptious desserts are all divine, and your waistline.QG‑8, ul. Ratajczaka 34 (1st floor), tel.
the coffee is great as well. After keeping us waiting for a (+48) 601 53 37 47. Open 14:00-24:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-
while, Inna finally introduced a simple breakfast menu, 24:00. B6
which changes every two weeks.QG‑7, ul. Ratajczaka 39,
tel. (+48) 724 01 94 94. Open 08:30-19:00; closed Sun. MÓWISH MASH
TU6 Specialty coffee, several varieties of homemade
cheesecake, and (mercifully optional) language lessons
KAWIARNIA STRAGAN are the order of the day at this cosy and modern Jeżyce
Obnoxious in principle, but perfectly warm and inviting in cafe. The attention to detail here is praiseworthy: coffee
actuality, Stragan adheres to some stringent self-imposed comes served with a laminated bit of paper describing the
rules, including a non-negotiable no-Americano policy bean variety, origin, and flavour profile, so some learning
(they also refuse to make scrambled eggs). Instead, they’re is unavoidable after all. Those keen on improving their
committed to serving top-notch alternatively-brewed English or Spanish can set up lessons with a private tutor,
coffee, using all the new-fangled (or just currently trendy) which take place in a separate section of the cafe (70zł/h,
methods like drip-brewing, aeropress, Chemex, and with a beverage included in the price). Come in before
52
Cafés
14:00 for a selection of tasty breakfast options, including
banana oatmeal, French toast, avo toast, scrambled eggs BREAKFAST
with dried tomatoes, and more, with a strong emphasis
on high-quality local ingredients. QC‑7, Zwierzyniecka 239
41, tel. (+48) 573 93 89 89, www.mowishmash.pl. Open Cosy breakfast spots abound in this city, and 239 is
08:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-14:00; Sun 10:00-18:00; closed one of the best - a warm industrial-chic hideaway
Mon. B6 sharing space with an architectural design studio and
serving up an array of millet porridge with fruits, club
PĄCZUŚ I KAWUSIA sandwiches, omelettes, and other seasonally-changing
Should you wander out to the largely residential Łazarz options. The coffee is splendid and a daily special
district - known for its Palm House, swanky City Park lunch is served as well; the one drawback is the walk
complex, old-school open air market, and mild state of needed to get here from the city centre, but use this
disrepair - definitely aim for a pit stop at this charming cafe as your opportunity to explore Poznań’s lesser-known
just off the district’s main square. Called ‘donut and coffee’, Łazarz district. Heartily recommended.QA‑11, ul.
the selection of treats won’t surprise you, but the quality Sczanieckiej 10/2, tel. (+48) 730 50 32 11. Open
will - the delicious pączki (Polish hole-less doughnuts) are 09:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 10:00-18:00. €.
homemade, often warm, and come in a variety of fillings, T6
and the specialty coffee is brewed using a number of
alternative methods. Recommended.QUl. Rynek Łazarski BAJGLE KRÓLA JANA
8, tel. (+48) 513 41 01 14. Open 10:00-18:00; Sun 12:00- Though now inseverably connected to NYC, the
18:00. T6 humble bagel can trace its roots to Central Europe,
with many agreeing it was invented by Cracovian Jews
PETIT PARIS BOULANGERIE after 1496 when King Jan Sobieski lifted the decree that
A prime location on the ground floor of Poznań’s bustling formerly restricted the production of baked goods to
Stary Browar shopping complex means that this cafe/ the Kraków Bakers Guild. This bit of culinary history is
boulangerie is never short of customers looking to celebrated at ‘King Jan’s Bagels’, a cafe and breakfast
take a break from their latest spending spree. The spot in the trendy Jeżyce district, cloned from the
interior is smart but informal, and the friendly staff busy original Szczecin location. The menu bursts with a
themselves serving up everything from fresh coffees generous selection of bagel sandwiches with fixings
and teas to crepes, tarts, pastries, and freshly-baked including mascarpone, sweet potato, prosciutto, and
French bread. For those looking for something a little marinated tofu. Reservations recommended. QC‑6,
more substantial there’s an excellent breakfast selection, ul. Kraszewskiego 15, tel. (+48) 732 80 64 44, www.
daily soups, and a range of lunches to line your stomach bajglekrolajana.pl. Open 08:30-18:00; Sat 09:00-
before sampling one of their wines. Bon appétit!QG‑9, 20:00; Sun 09:00-18:00. B6
ul. Półwiejska 32 (Stary Browar), tel. (+48) 61 667 15
55, www.petitparis.com.pl. Open 08:00-21:00; Sun PETIT PARIS BOULANGERIE
09:00-20:00. UB A perfect breakfast option, where the most important
meal of the day is served all day. Choose from French
RÓŻOVE classics like croque madame, crepes, croissant
Walking through the door of this establishment is like sandwiches, tartines and more - all made from
stepping into a close friend’s super trendy kitchen, except authentic French ingredients, and delicious fresh
the friend is an insane baker with a glass case full of glorious bread that is baked on-site.QH‑9, ul. Półwiejska
fresh cakes. Featuring an odd but inviting open layout, 32 (Stary Browar), tel. (+48) 61 667 15 55, www.
friendly and easygoing staff, and a pink theme that stays petitparis.com.pl. Open 08:00-21:00; Sun 09:00-
strictly within the limits of good taste at all times, Róźove is 20:00. €. UB
part cafe, part trinket shop, and all cosy hang-out.QI‑7, ul.
Wodna 23, tel. (+48) 725 01 00 77, www.rozove.pl. Open UNO
11:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-21:00. UB6 Absolutely smashing breakfast and specialty coffee
(cold brew, chemex, aeropress, the works) in a typical
TACZAKA 20 ‘cool 2010s interior’ of exposed brick, light wood, plants,
A cool upstairs cafe drawing an artsy crowd during daylight and wall art - pleasant. The menu changes regularly,
hours when they’re in need of coffee and sandwiches. The but expect elevated versions of popular brekkie dishes
interior features one wall covered in stray pieces of wood like decked-out bagels, shakshouka, porridge, frittata,
(more intriguing than it sounds, we promise), the menu French toast, granola, eggs, and more. You can even
is a simple array of salads, cake, and snacks like hummus, grab yourself a bag of coffee beans recommended by
while the true standout is their minimal beer selection, the knowledgeable staff. Recommended. QC‑6, ul.
featuring some local microbrews. A low-key winner. Bolesława Prusa 4/2, tel. (+48) 501 03 17 87. Open
QG‑8, ul. Taczaka 20, tel. (+48) 799 17 44 14. Open 08:00-18:00; Sat 09:00-16:00; Sun 10:00-16:00. €. 6
10:00-18:00. 6
53
Regional Dishes
54
Regional Dishes
GREY DUMPLINGS / SZARE KLUCHY be found in bakeries year-round,
HYĆKA
A local rendition of elderflower cordial, and not a
popular drink elsewhere in Poland. The recipe is simple:
elderflower, sugar and water, resulting in a sweet, vitamin-
rich concoction.
Where to try it: where else - Hyćka (p.64).
CZERNINA
A bit grisly, this mixture of clear broth and duck’s blood
with a handful of noodles is commonly said to taste better
than it looks, though you be the judge - we’re keeping
mum. Perfect for Halloween and beyond.
Where to try it: Bamberka (p.65) and Hyćka (p.64).
Muga (p.61)
AMERICAN
INDIAN STEAK
Poland does still like its Native American cliches, and if you
look past the name and harmless sprinkling of tribal and
‘wild wild West’ exotica (which admittedly is incorporated
tastefully into the elegant, red-brick interior), you will
discover an upscale steak house serving a wide assortment
of cuts including tournedo, T-bone, fiorentina, ribeye, top
sirloin, and even the elusive 1.2kg tomahawk steak, widely
considered the best of the bunch. Pair the perfectly-grilled
meat with regional sides like potatoes with gzik, goat The best traditional
cheese, oyster mushrooms, or meadow lettuces (all from Polish cuisine
locally-sourced ingredients), or opt for one of Indian’s
Wielkopolska-centric options like venison or roast duck in the centre
with cabbage and dumplings.QA‑9/10, ul. Ułańska 1, tel.
(+48) 61 221 78 07, www.indiansteak.pl. Open 12:00-
of Poznań.
23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00. €€€€. B
PHOBAR
More like Berlin in Poznań rather than Hanoi in Poznań, and
the local cool kids aren’t complaining. Big bowls of beautiful
pho bo and a vegan alternative are served amid loud dubstep
to hip youth seated at communal tables; the exposed-brick
interior and party garlands complete the stylish atmosphere.
The broth might not be the most flavourful, but a splash of
sriracha and fish sauce from strategically placed bottles resolve
PASSION FOR FOOD the issue to an extent. Those pining for other Vietnamese
specialties can enjoy nem ran (spring rolls), splendid coffee
with condensed milk, and something called the Vietnamese
Wodna 3/4, 61-781 Poznań burger.QB‑6, ul. Wawrzyniaka 19, tel. (+48) 501 97 39 74.
Phone +48 61 852 49 95 Open 12:00-20:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-22:00. €€. B6
www.lavenda-cafelunch.pl
INDIAN
HATTI
DARK RESTAURANT Our hopes were not high for this establishment - good
Indian is still fairly difficult to come by in Poland - but we
“Adventurous” isn’t a word we often like to pair with were pleasantly surprised as the appetiser papadums with
the word “dining” (after all, that’s how folks on reality a selection of chutneys came out of the kitchen, followed
TV end up eating spiders), but this place proves to be by some very decent tikka masalas and mango lassis.
the exception. As its name implies, Dark Restaurant From the ornate and slightly musty decor to the extensive
is devoted to having diners eat their dinner in inky selection of dishes, this is a familiar, Westernised version of
blackness. We’re not talking mood lighting, either; the the subcontinental eating experience such as you’ll find in
cavernous room is so dark that the waiters actually wear the UK or US, and we goras are happy. Looking forward
night vision goggles. The idea behind Dark Restaurant to coming back whenever the pakora cravings kick back
is that by impairing your sense of sight, you enhance in.QI‑7, ul. Woźna 13, tel. (+48) 732 71 00 00, www.hatti.
your other senses, which makes for a more exciting pl. Open 13:00-22:00. €€. UB6
dining experience. It’s also a great excuse to eat with
your hands, because utensils are completely useless INTERNATIONAL
without the benefit of eyesight. Each of the menu
themes - bizarre food, mood food, and a more standard BIERHALLE
option - comes with a variety of courses, and you aren’t This familiar tourist-friendly franchise lives up to its name,
told what you’re digging into until the meal is over. All bringing its Oktoberfest atmosphere to Poznań’s Posnania
these factors add up to a messy and intriguing meal Shopping Centre. At Bierhalle they brew their own, offering
that will have you guessing with every bite. Sure, some 5 different ales most commonly ordered by the litre, but
of the foods are obvious, but basil ice cream? Oranges you can also go gorilla with a 5l barrel. The beer-friendly
with sea salt? Your tongue will undoubtedly be franchise menu consists of German bratwurst, ribs, pork
tantalized. Fortunately, your meal ends with a chance knuckle, and other meaty feasts with fries, the busty servers
to talk with your waiter and the head chef, who delight in faux-folk costumes look like they’ve just finished milking
in making you guess what you ate.QI‑7, ul. Garbary the cows, and TVs stream sports to complete the lads
48, tel. (+48) 61 852 20 57, www.darkrestaurant.pl. magnet appeal.QM‑10, ul. Pleszewska 1 (Posnania), tel.
Open 16:00-21:30; closed Sun. €€€€€. 6 (+48) 508 80 07 55, www.bierhalle.pl. Open 10:00-23:00;
Fri, Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. €€. TB6
58
Restaurants
BLOW UP HALL 5050
Blow Up 5050 is a combination of gastronomy and art
that will blow your socks off. The name is a combination
of the 1966 Antonioni thriller combined with the owner’s
philosophy of making all her enterprises 50% art and 50%
business. Complementing the award winning hotel and
bar is the restaurant, where prices are at the very top end
of the Poznań market, as is the quality. The seasonal cuisine
- crafted by Top Chef Poland winner Tomasz Purol - is
superb, and the surroundings will leave you feeling you’ve
become part of a living art exhibition, making it a truly
unique experience in Poland, and perhaps even Europe.
QG‑9, ul. Kościuszki 42, tel. (+48) 61 657 99 90, www.
blowuphall5050.com. Open 17:00-23:00; closed Sun.
€€€€. TU
BROVARIA
Go formal and pick the right-hand room for a smoothly
subdued dining area or else do as the rank-and-file and
head either to the brewing hall out back, the bar to the
side, or the al fresco terrace. Brovaria has something
for everyone, from half a roast duck to a French veggie
tart, with the premium price reserved for the grilled beef
sirloin. Or consider tucking into the beer feast – essentially
a huge platter piled inches high with a mix of seafood and
meat. Not for nothing has Brovaria been crowned king of
the expatriate scene.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 73-74 (Brovaria
Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 858 68 68, www.brovaria.pl. Open
12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. €€€. TB
CONCORDIA TASTE
A long-standing editorial favourite, thanks to their
willingness to buck trends and try something different.
The design is what you would call post-industrial (the live
cooking station is a huge plus) and the clientele sharp-
dressed and out to impress. The food comes beautifully
presented by efficient staff and the seasonal menu features
some truly mouth-watering options, which in the past
have included the likes of Atlantic cod with mango, grilled
bok choy, and jasmine rice; beef cheeks with potatoes
and grape jello; and beef tartare with mustard, marinated
chives, shimeji mushrooms, and confit egg yolk.QD‑7,
ul. Zwierzyniecka 3, tel. (+48) 609 00 29 64, www.
concordiataste.pl. Open 08:30-22:00; Sat 09:00-22:00;
Sun 09:00-18:00. €€€. TUB
SPOT.
Fashion, design, and cuisine collide at SPOT, a unique
shopping complex set inside the beautifully restored late
19th-century Wilda power station, which is surrounded by
a lovely green park. Home to several shops and services,
it all serves as mere garnish for the excellent restaurant,
which should be your main motivation for visiting. Sporting
a smart post-industrial swagger with monochrome colours,
exposed bricks, and retro kitsch decor, the atmosphere is
inspired, and the menu offers sophisticated European
cuisine accented by Asian flavours, including vegetarian
and gluten-free dishes. With craft beer, a large selection of
wines, and their own sommelier, this is Poznań at its cutting
edge best.Qul. Dolna Wilda 87, tel. (+48) 61 835 88 40,
www.spot.poznan.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri 12:00-
23:00; Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-19:00; closed Mon.
€€€. TUB6
THE TIME
Located in Poznań’s posh Młyńska 12 business centre,
the result of the refurbishment of a fin de siècle building
designed by architect Oskar Hoffman, The Time meets
the standards of its high-profile guests. Perfect for
impressing both business partners and dates, they
serve a menu of sophisticated dishes like duck pierogi
with foie gras and beet puree or quail with figs and
vegetables. Over 150 various bottled of wine can be Poznań, ul. Kolejowa 29
fetched from the cellar by the waiter, and live piano
music adds to the ritzy experience on Saturdays from Tel. 61 664 66 02
19:00 until 22:00.QG‑6, ul. Młyńska 12, tel. (+48) 61
627 03 07, www.mlynska12.pl/restauracja-the-time. www.hotelmoderno.pl
Open 16:00-22:00; Fri 16:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00;
Sun 13:00-20:00. €€€€. TUE6
61
Restaurants
WERANDA LUNCH & WINE
Weranda is a restaurant worthy of its setting at the
confluence of the old and new portions of the vast Stary
Browar shopping centre, with an open two-story skylit
space (what the hell are those colourful things hanging
from the ceiling?) that is breathtaking even in a building
that’s known for its architecture. If upscale mall dining exists
then Weranda has perfected it, with a daily lunch menu
(29zł from 12:00 till the food runs out) that can include
anything from pasta to grilled meat to whatever strikes the
chef’s fancy. All of it can be paired with wine, easily making
shopping an afterthought. On non-shopping-ban Sundays
(currently the last Sunday of each month) the restaurant is
open 10:00-20:00.QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary Browar),
tel. (+48) 61 859 69 69, www.werandafamily.com. Open
09:00-22:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-18:00.
€€€. TB
ITALIAN
FIGARO
Romantic repasts and serious business dinners take place
amongst these starched tablecloths and vases of flowers.
RistoRante FigaRo Prices are steep, but well within the spending power of
ul. ogrodowa 17, 61-821 Poznań most Western visitors. Diners can choose from a large list
tel. +48 61 856 01 89 of pastas, beef tenderloin, veal, and an expansive wine
www.restauracjafigaro.eu list. What Figaro is famous for though is its fresh fish and
figaro@restauracjafigaro.eu seafood, which is said to be among the best in the city.
Those wanting to really push the boat out may wish to take
advantage of the restaurant’s VIP room, which can be hired
out for those extra special occasions. The kitchen closes at
22:00 Mon-Sat, so don’t leave your culinary feast till the last
ul. Wojskowa 4 minute.QG‑8, ul. Ogrodowa 17, tel. (+48) 61 856 01 89,
Poznań (next to City Park) www.restauracjafigaro.eu. Open 13:00-23:00 Mon-Sat,
open: mon-sat 12-23, sun 12-22 13:00-18:00 Sun. In July and August closed Sun. €€€.
T6
phone: + 48 519 376 182
www.kyokai.pl FORNO ITALIA
email: sushi@kyokai.pl Solid B+ Roman-style pizza out of a wood-burning
oven in Poznań’s hip Jeżyce district. Though purists will
undoubtedly go for the margherita and an espresso (or
maybe some wine), the possible pizza toppings include
salami piccante, artichokes, eggplant, taleggio, prosciutto,
and semi-dried tomatoes, and the menu also encompasses
focaccia, carpaccio, cheese boards, panna cotta, tiramisu,
and other Italian favourites. A couple outdoor tables are
available in warm weather, overlooking a Neo-Romanesque
church and a dusty street. The restaurant itself is located in
a commie-tastic pavilion, but the good news is that you
won’t have to look at the facade while inside - and the
interior is pleasant enough, with smart dark grey walls, light
wood, and industrial elements.QC‑5, ul. Kościelna 12/14,
tel. (+48) 885 62 56 25. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-
23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. €€. TUB6
62
Restaurants
JAPANESE
KYOKAI SUSHI BAR
The City Park development just to the west of the centre
(past the Trade Fairs) is home to some of the city’s best
eating establishments and this is true for Kyokai, one of
Poznań’s most notable Japanese efforts. Laid out over two
floors, Kyokai features sushi sets revolving around a circular
bar, while a sushi sensei multitasks in the thick of it all. Set in Korean-Japanese cuisine
a series of converted red brick buildings, the surroundings Circular sushi bar
look chic and sexy, as do the clientele. Definitely one to
hour
check out, take tram 13 to the ‘Wojskowa’ stop.QA‑8,
ul. Wojskowa 4 (Łazarz), tel. (+48) 519 37 61 82, www. y
kyokai.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. €€€. Happ
TUB6
12:00 - 17:00
RAMEN-YA All week!
This hole-in-the-wall might be tiny, awkwardly furnished,
sushi Buffet
and somewhat rudimentary, but boy, is the ramen good.
After the success of Yetztu on ul. Krysiewicza it looked like
Poznań didn’t need any more ramen joints, and yet these
boys came along and knocked the ball out of the park again. Eat all you want
The menu consists of shoyu, shio, kimchi, and mazamen
ramen (in meaty and vegan versions), plus snacks like bao 60zł per person
buns; the cooks know their stuff and food arrives super fast.
While not exactly the place for an extended sit-down, this 17:00 - 22:00 70zł per person
is one of our favourite spots for a quick bite of something
good.QC‑5, ul. Kościelna 4, tel. (+48) 731 09 73 58. Open
12:00-21:00. €€. B6
YETZTU
Ramen, ramen, ramen - the best in Poznań, in fact (though
that notion is now being challenged with the arrival of
Ramen-Ya in Jeżyce). Tiny and decorated with assorted
cutsey Japanese paraphernalia - beckoning cats, anime
figurines, worried-looking bake-danuki - Yetztu offers
several versions of the beloved noodles, including shio
(with wontons), shoyu (with chicken), vegio (with tofu),
kamo (with chili duck), and yakitori (with yakitori). There are
also edemame beans to munch on, kakuni marinated pork
belly, kimchi, and the very bold ‘wonton nachos’.QH‑8, ul.
Bolesława Krysiewicza 6, tel. (+48) 61 840 17 12. Open
12:00-21:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. €€.
T
CHŁOPSKIE JADŁO
Anyone who has set foot in Poland before will have most
likely eaten in Chłopskie Jadło - a national chain which
offers good old Polish grub at a reasonable price. This new
Poznań location nails the formula, and trademark tourist-
approved standards like various types of pierogi, hearty
cutlets, and sour rye soup in bread are as good here as you’ll
find anywhere. The interior is also refreshingly modern,
while retaining some folksy motifs, and a playground for
kids makes this a good option for families. As is the case
with most Polish restaurants, you’ll be leaving extremely
filled with a smile on your face and a willingness to come
back.QF‑7, ul. Fredry 12, tel. (+48) 725 10 05 25, www.
chlopskiejadlo.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-
23:00. €€. TUB
HYĆKA
While many restaurants in Poznań serve traditional
Wielkopolska duck (served with cabbage, apples, and
dumplings) and pyry z gzikiem (potatoes with cottage
cheese), Hyćka is the most reliable spot to sample a wider
array of regional eats, including czernina (duck blood soup),
TRY FRESH, grey dumplings (made with shredded potatoes), ‘szagówki’
dumplings, and the namesake hyćka, an elderflower cordial
SEASONAL CUISINE
(also served in lemonade form). Though the decor isn’t
spectacular and there are better places to eat in Śródka, it’s
still worth keeping this place on your radar if you’re after
WITH OUR LOCAL very authentic Poznań fare.QL‑6, Rynek Śródecki 17, tel.
(+48) 535 04 50 35, www.hycka.pl. Open 11:00-21:00;
Mon 11:00-20:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-20:00.
INSPIRATIONS! €€. T6
NA WINKLU
Plebeian boiled pierogi with meat or cheese and potatoes
can be had in countless restaurants in Poznań, but Śródka’s
Na Winklu (On the Corner) goes beyond, focusing on
Restauracja RYNEK baked dumplings instead. Hide away in their small but hip
3/9 Bukowska str., Poznań interior and sample creations with unorthodox ingredients
www.rynekpoznan.pl like dried tomatoes and mozzarella, liver and apple, blood
sausage, or Mexican-style ground beef.QL‑6, ul. Śródka 1,
Phone. 600 554 319 tel. (+48) 796 14 50 04. Open 12:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-
19:00. €€. U6
64
Restaurants
OBERŻA POD DZWONKIEM
Resembling a traditional mountain lodge, ‘Under the Bell’ is
bursting with giant timber beams, beautiful 200-year-old
wooden furniture, rusty machinery, old pots and pans, piles
of dusty books - even the barstools are fashioned out of
saddles. It all contributes to a congenial rustic atmosphere,
but the philosophy of the kitchen is hardly the throwback
that the interior suggests. The menu has recently shifted
from twists on traditional Polish fare to more international
creations like corn crepes with pulled pork and portobello
mushrooms, pork ribs with bacon and beetroot carpaccio, or
Black Angus steak. A ‘tapas set’ of their most popular dishes
is available on request, and 18zł daily-special lunch is served
14:00-18:00 Tue-Fri.QI‑7, ul. Garbary 54, tel. (+48) 61 851
99 70, www.oberza.com.pl. Open 14:00-22:00; Sat 13:00-
22:00; Sun 13:00-18:00; closed Mon. €€. TUB6
OSKOMA
Oskoma is the lair of Top Chef Poland finalist Adam
Adamczak, who cooks up seasonally-changing, gourmet
‘new Polish’ dishes. Recently on the menu were creme of
sorrel and nettles soup with smoked egg yolk, river trout,
potatoes, and pickled wild garlic; beef tenderloin with
Lithuanian kibinai pastries, celery, truffles, gooseberry and
bacon jam, and smoked plum sauce; Siberian sturgeon
caviar with buckwheat blini and mizeria cucumber salad
(for a whopping 270zł); and much much more, all of which
made us salivate intensely. Pair your meal with a glass of fine TRADITIONAL
red from Oskoma’s extensive wine list and enjoy a refined POLISH CUISINE A.D.1954
evening in this modern, understated Jeżyce eatery.QD‑6,
ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. (+48) 728 44 21 65, www.oskoma. WHERE KING JAN II KAZIMIERZ WAZA
pl. Open 08:00-22:00; Sun 08:00-20:00. €€€. TB RESIDED IN 16571658 YOU MAY SAVOUR
AUTHENTIC TRADITIONAL POLISH CUISINE
AND DISHES OF AN INTERNATIONAL FLAVOUR
RATUSZOVA EXPERTLY PREPARED BY OUR HIGHLY
One of the longest-running establishments in town, and EXPERIENCED CHEF. FOUR DIFFERENT
with good reason. Located right on the main square, AREAS ARE AVAILABLE FOR OUR GUESTS:
Ratuszova serves up a vast array of healthy and modern RESTAURANT, CAFE,
BAR & SUMMER GARDEN
seasonal dishes using the innovative sous vide method not
found in many other Poznań restaurants. If the beautiful and
unique interior doesn’t impress you (and it should) then the
menu surely will. Prepare to indulge yourself with classics
such as steak, roast duck with apple, duck pierogi, czernina
(duck blood) soup, sour rye soup, lamb, fresh fish, and
other Polish standards, or pop in just for coffee and cake.
Two-course lunch is served Mon-Fri 12:00-17:00 for only
19zł. A perfect spot to spoil yourself.QI‑7, Stary Rynek 55,
tel. (+48) 61 851 05 13, www.ratuszova.pl. Open 12:00-
23:00. €€€. TB6
RESTAURACJA BAMBERKA
A long-standing restaurant squirrelled away in the complex
of buildings at the centre of the town square. Step in and
you’ll find stained glass panels, floral touches, and a strong
European menu that includes a good selection of local
dishes like duck with cabbage and dumplings, czernina WWW.RATUSZOVA.PL
(duck blood soup), potatoes with gzik, gray dumplings
with cabbage, and blood sausage.QH‑7, Stary Rynek 2, +48 618 510 513
tel. (+48) 61 852 99 17, www.bamberka.com.pl. Open
11:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-23:00. €€. TB6
65
Restaurants
RYNEK
Sheraton’s newest upscale dining offering is Rynek (The
Main Square), which offers creative, seasonally-changing
‘new Polish’ dishes like ‘cold bowls’ with cold borscht,
marinated beets, caramelised wallnuts, yogurt, and bee
pollen, or with sorrel, wilk garlic, smoked river trout, raisins,
baked celery, and cannabis oil; Polish-Japanese fusion
tartare with marinated mushrooms, hay-smoked salt, and
cured egg yolk; and hot plates which include fancy takes on
Duck with dumplings pierogi, gołąbki (mushrooms and rice in a cabbage leaf ), and
and red cabbage fried crayfish. Extravagant and delectable. A buffet breakfast
makes an appearance Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30 and weekends
7:30-11:00.QD‑7, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznan
Hotel), tel. (+48) 61 655 20 00, www.rynekpoznan.pl.
Open 06:30-24:00; Sat, Sun 07:30-24:00. €€€. TU
WIEJSKIE JADŁO
Wiejskie Jadło is just what you expect from a Polish
restaurant - a warm wooden interior, bustling staff, and big
decent portions of hearty grub. We enjoyed the żurek soup
and after gut-busting sausages, it’s good we didn’t have
far to go - they’re located just off the market square.QI‑7,
Stary Rynek 77 (entrance from ul. Franciszkańska), tel.
(+48) 61 853 66 00, www.wiejskie-jadlo.pl. Open 12:00-
22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00. €€. TUB6
Stary Rynek 77
(entrance from the Franciszkańska street)
tel. (+48) 618 53 66 00, www.wiejskie-jadlo.pl SEAFOOD
RESTAURACJA MOMO
At Momo pasta dishes, steak, and salads are all on offer, but
it’s the fresh seafood that really stands out. The specialty is
the 80zł seafood plate filled with mussels, calamari, baby
squid, and prawns, but the chef creates new delightful and
imaginative dishes daily, with the first page of the menu
changed each morning. Of the two rooms to choose from,
we prefer the smaller and cosier one, but many diners will
no doubt prefer to keep an eye on the open kitchen. In
ul Garbary 54 the warm season, you can also sit out on a terrace hidden
+48 61 851 99 70 behind the building.QI‑7, ul. Szewska 2, tel. (+48) 501 41
51 36, www.momolovebite.pl. Open 13:00-23:00; Mon,
Sun 13:00-21:00. €€€. TB6
THAI
THAI THAI
From fresh oysters, monkfish in red curry, and crispy duck,
to classics like pad thai, green curry, and mango with sticky
rice, this high-end Thai chain prepares veritable Southeast
Asian feasts in a refined interior with dark wood, floral
lattices, and Buddha ornaments. Top the experience off
with a bottle of fine red, or try the 35zł lunches, served from
Typical Polish
Cuisine 12:00 till 16:00 on weekdays. QA‑9, ul. Wojskowa 4, tel.
Slow Food (+48) 885 19 98 85, www.thaithai.pl. Open 12:00-22:00;
Vegan Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. €€€. B
Vegetarian
Eco products WHY THAI FOOD & WINE
enu
Also gluten free m Why Thai, why not? This fresh, cool, and comfortable
modern restaurant refuses to bow down to the standard
‘silk road’ school of Asian interior design. An absolute
66
Restaurants
insistence on using fresh ingredients, unpolluted by
MSG or other flavour enhancing poisons, guarantees the
dishes have a light and natural taste. The well-conceived
menu is neither overly long nor cryptically complicated;
our go-to is lamb in massaman curry or classic pad thai.
If you’re particularly nosy and need to know what the
Thai cooks are up to try to be seated in the smaller area
of the restaurant with its glass-fronted view into the
kitchen.QI‑7, ul. Kramarska 7, tel. (+48) 61 818 29 11,
www.whythai.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Mon, Sun 12:00-
22:00. €€€. T6
VEGETARIAN
FALLA
Falafel bowls so good, they make us want to weep. From
the assorted pickles to the creamy hummus to the highly
addictive seasoned pita bread, Falla churns out dishes
that are not only expertly prepared, but also beautifully
presented. First-timers will be wise to go for Fatima’s Hand,
an impressive assortment of Falla’s best creations, which
actually does come in the shape of a hand. Also on the
menu: seasonal dishes taking advantage of whatever Polish
greengrocers currently have to offer, wraps, shakshouka,
Turkish ayran, cocktails, and more. All this in a warm and
stylish interior with industrial elements, squirrelled away
in Poznań’s hip Jeżyce district. Recommended.QB‑6, ul.
Wawrzyniaka 19, tel. (+48) 576 95 04 73. Open 12:00-
21:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-22:00. €€. TUB6
WYPAS
Widely regarded as Poz’s best vegan haunt, Wypas is known
for heaping plates of “a bit of everything”; choose your
adventure from Japanese, Middle Eastern, Mexican, Polish,
or Spanish - or perhaps a nice ol’ bowl of ramen or tom kha
soup. Bring your eating pants (trousers for you Brits) and
wrestle local plant-eaters for seats at this below-ground
hole-in-the-wall.QB‑6, ul. Jackowskiego 38, tel. (+48)
796 14 41 15. Open 10:00-22:00; Mon, Tue, Sun 10:00-
18:00. €€. T6
67
Nightlife
SPLURGE COUPLES
The best cocktails in Poznań are found in Twelve Another vote for Twelve Cocktails (p.75) and Bar
Cocktails (p.75) and Bar Susznia (p.69), with the Susznia (p.69), the two best destinations for seductive
latter conveniently situated close to one of the most cocktails. Those who prefer wine should check out Casa
exclusive danceterias in town - SQ (p.77). If your poison de Vinos (p.72) and Wino na Kieliszki (p.72), and if it’s
is whisky, look no further than the upscale Dram: Whisky entertainment you’re after, head to Blue Note Jazz Club
Explorers Bar (p.72). (p.73), which attracts great international performers to
serenade your better half.
SQUARE
With so many options, Poz’s Rynek can be overwhelming. ALTERNATIVE
Without doubt the most popular place is Brovaria Catch an underground concert or an obscure film screening
(p.72), which regularly sees people queuing for tables at the cultural peculiarity that is Pies Andaluzyjski
in order to enjoy the in-house brewed beers. Of course (p.73), participate in the Polish craft beer obsession at
it’s impossible not to mention Pacha (p.77) here - the Piwna Stopa (p.74) and Ministerstwo Browaru (p.74),
legendary Ibiza club which has brought its international party with hipsters at the riverside shipping-container
cred and celebrity crowds to Poz; good luck getting in. extravaganza KontenerART (p.50), check out street art
For the plebs, it’s the ever-popular Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa at Perygród (p.50), or try a self-serve wine bar concept at
(p.74), of course. Wino na Kieliszki (p.72).
68
Nightlife
SYMBOL KEY
N Credit cards not accepted C‑1 Map Coordinate
B Outside seating
BASILIUM
A smart and cosy little location found just off the Rynek,
Enjoy your evenings
and well-loved by the entire IYP team. Warm lighting and
decorations ranging from old gramophones to flattened beer at SomePlace Else!
bottles suspended from the ceiling help create a laid-back
atmosphere, but the main reason for parking yourself in one
of the comfy chairs or propping yourself up an empty wooden
barrel is the vast selection of beer on offer. Whilst there are a
few on draught, it’s the rows and rows of bottles on the shelves
that will have you gawping and unsure quite where to start.
With over 150 brews, this is one of the best craft beer bars in
Poz. In addition to this, there’s a nice selection of snacks.QI‑7,
ul. Woźna 21, tel. (+48) 790 33 37 56. Open 15:00-01:00; Fri
15:00-02:00; Sat 13:00-02:00; Sun 13:00-24:00. UB6
BISTRO TANCERECZKA
An assortment of Polish snacks and small dishes like beef
tartare, sour rye soup, and potatoes with quark cheese
accompany a large selection of booze including vodka
(they even make their own pear-flavoured kind), craft happy hours
beer, prosecco, and mixed drinks. It’s loud, it’s hip - there’s
simply no escaping the exposed brick, fairy lights, and delicious burgers and steaks
street-inspired wall art - and the folks here are having a
good time. You can even purchase small bottles of that craft beers and great drinks
pear vodka as souvenirs for the whomever you left back
home.QH‑8, ul. Wrocławska 18 (entrance from ul.
Jaskółcza), tel. (+48) 730 90 15 48. Open 18:00-02:00;
sport events live stream
Wed, Thu 18:00-04:00; Fri, Sat 18:00-07:00. 6
SomePlace Else (Sheraton Poznan Hotel)
3/9 Bukowska Str., Poznan
Get the In Your Pocket phone: 61 655 2000
www.poznan.someplace-else.pl
City Essentials App
69
Nightlife
BROVARIA
in the know Brovaria feels an integral part of Poznań life, and it’s
certainly become established as the main expat haunt
independent since the demise of Dom Vikingów. Yet while it feels an
ingrained piece of Poznań one look at the design reveals
indispensable a modern, industrial space, one where steel and glass
combine to create a sharp looking area that looks as
edgy now as when it first opened. However, coming here
to admire the interiors would be missing the point; this
place is all about beer, namely the excellent house lagers
that are brewed out back in the copper vats. Here’s one
of the best microbreweries in Poland, quite possibly the
best: enjoy it.QH‑7, Stary Rynek 73-74 (Brovaria Hotel),
ONLINE tel. (+48) 61 858 68 68, www.brovaria.pl. Open 10:00-
01:00. B
CHMIELNIK
One of the best bars on ul. Żydowska, Chmielnik sports
PRINT a smart wood and stone interior, on-site brewing tanks,
and a spot-on selection of microbrews to pull in a trendy
20-something crowd. The seasonal garden out back is a
MOBILE summer staple, and it has recently expanded, along with
the entire locale. Hands down, this is one of our favourite
places for lazy get-togethers that go late into the night.
QI‑6, ul. Żydowska 27, tel. (+48) 790 33 39 46. Open
16:00-24:00; Thu 16:00-01:00; Fri 16:00-02:00; Sat 13:00-
02:00; Sun 13:00-23:00. B6
poland.inyourpocket.com
COOLIOZUM
We were a little sceptical at the beginning but this place
is unquestionably Poznań’s best sports bar. This isn’t the
WINE BARS dark, divey venue you may be used to, rather a large
modern space involving ice white sofas and a blue-lit
CASA DE VINOS bar; TVs aside, other bonuses include around 120 beers,
Thirty seconds from bustling Półwiejska Street, Casa as well as foosball and a few poker tables which seem
de Vinos wine bar serves as an ideal stop-off for those to have a steady flow of customers. Head through the
who know they deserve a relaxing glass of wine (or archway at no. 45 and find it down some stairs on your
two) after a hard day of shopping and sightseeing. The left.QG‑7, ul. Św. Marcin 45, tel. (+48) 783 48 76 91,
friendly and knowledgeable staff are happy enough to www.cooliozum.pl. 6
talk you through the 300 plus bottles on display before
offering you a comfy seat in which to enjoy your final DRAM WHISKY EXPLORERS BAR
choice. It’s small, it’s intimate and it makes for a perfect Yo ho ho and a bottle of whisky! Put on your explorer’s
little place to sample some of the finest wines from hat and set sail for the famed world of aged spirits. This
around the globe. Keep your credit card at hand - you’ll classy, leather-heavy bar just off the main square offers not
be needing it when it comes to ordering a bottle or just a great selection of upscale alcohol (including fancy
three to take back home.QH‑8, ul. Krysiewicza 5/2, cocktails), but also open and private tasting sessions, live
tel. (+48) 61 815 28 26, www.casadevinos.pl. Open music, gourmet appetisers (like ash-coated cheese with
11:00-22:00; Sat 10:00-22:00; closed Sun. apricot preserves and grissini), and food pairing advice.
Those overwhelmed by choice will do well to try one of the
WINO NA KIELISZKI (WINE BY THE GLASS) two seasonal tasting sets, comprising three distinct types
The city’s first self-serve wine bar, ‘Wine by the Glass’ lets of whisky each. QH‑7, Stary Rynek 92, tel. (+48) 739 90
you pour your own vintage from a selection of forty. 31 97, www.dram.bar. Open 18:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 18:00-
Just load up a pre-paid card by the bar, order a cheese 02:00; closed Mon, Sun. BE
board or some nice tapas, and enjoy your Dionysiac
evening. Recommended. QG‑6, ul. Młyńska 12, tel.
(+48) 61 627 03 00, www.mlynska12.pl/wino-na-
kieliszki. Open 18:00-24:00; Sat 18:00-01:30; closed Read more reviews online:
Mon, Sun. U6 poznan.inyourpocket.com
72
Nightlife
FORT COLOMB
Fort Colomb, part of the inner ring of old Prussian DRAM WHISKY EXPLORERS BAR
fortifications, sometimes gets overlooked on account of WHISKY. COCKTAILS. TRAVELS.
its location – a bit out of the old town and closer to the
main train station - but it really shouldn’t. During the / Stary Rynek 92 - Old City Poznań
summer, we take every opportunity to get away from the / Tue-Thu 18:00 - 00:00
hustle, bustle, and loud drunks of the main square and / Fri-Sat 18:00 - 02:00
/ +48 739 903 197
hide away in the leafy garden of this splendidly historic
/ table@dram.bar
building, located right in Park Marcinkowskiego.QF‑8, ul. / www.dram.bar
Powstanców Wielkopolskich, tel. (+48) 609 99 02 82,
www.fortcolomb.pl. Open 14:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 14:00-
02:00; Sun 17:00-02:00. XBE
#HASHTAG
Hashtag hashtag? Okay then. Tailor-made for the 2010’s
social media crowd, this Old Town establishment serves
up #trendycocktails and #funkyshots to post on your @
instagram account, #housebeats to tweet about, and
#interiordecor touches straight from pinterest. Just don’t
get too rambunctious, or you’ll have to untag yourself from
unflattering facebook pictures the next day. QH‑7, ul.
Wrocławska 7, tel. (+48) 570 88 12 97. Open 15:00-02:00;
Wed, Thu 15:00-03:00; Fri, Sat 15:00-05:00. BE6
HOLA HOLA
The current ‘place to be’ on ul. Wrocławska, Hola Hola
is swarmed by loud revellers the minute the sun sets on
a weekend night. You can’t miss it when walking along
Poznań’s party street, and if you like to drink in the centre of
action, this might just be for you (if not, consider checking
out their less crowded basement). The hip-n-cool checklist
gets all checks: trendy light fixtures, exposed brick, and
drinks served in mason jars are basically obligatory these
days.QH‑7, ul. Wrocławska 10. Open 17:00-02:00; Thu
LIVE MUSIC
17:00-03:00; Fri, Sat 17:00-05:00. W BLUE NOTE JAZZ CLUB
A vast multi-level jazz club whose spangly interior
ISTNY WINE TAPAS BEER has shades of 90s club tragedy written all over
Refined but mercifully laid back (leave that tie at home), it. Don’t let that discourage you, however; this is
ISTNY offers a selection of 11 wines, 11 beers, and 2 ciders a legendary venue that has hosted some of the
- all on tap - in a hip, industrial interior. Make sure to grab biggest names in Polish and international jazz. Do
an assortment of tapas, which include pickled garlic cloves, check their website for what’s cooking first - this
Turkish brine cheese, prosciutto, chorizo, jamón serrano, space has been known to be rented out for teen hip-
and olives.QH‑8, ul. Podgórna 12, tel. (+48) 606 61 04 hop nights and other hooded-top twaddle, and if
30. Open 18:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 18:00-02:00; closed Sun. there’s no concert scheduled then they aren’t open.
6 QF‑7, ul. Kościuszki 79, tel. (+48) 61 851 04 08,
www.bluenote.poznan.pl. Open 45 min before
MIEJSCÓWKA event; check website. E
Once the city’s most representative street, Św. Marcin
has long been a snooze lane crammed with mediocre PIES ANDALUZYJSKI
establishments you’d hurry past on your way to the main “Theatre / music / vodka” - this is how ‘An
square. Luckily, the tide is starting to turn with the addition Andalusian Dog’ describes itself in short. Named
of increasingly recommendation-worthy restaurants and after the 1929 surrealist short film by Luis
bars - and here’s one. Very ‘current’ what with the neons, Buñuel and Salvador Dalí, this eccentric den
exposed brick, and Pinteresty glassware, Miejscówka supplements its already alluring atmosphere with
might not be the most original, but it does earn our seal concerts, workshops, and performances.QG‑6,
of approval, and probably Instagram’s as well. The target ul. Nowowiejskiego 17, tel. (+48) 505 27 91
group here is the more hipster types, so expect lots of 21. Open 18:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 18:00-03:00; Sun
whimsical cocktails and colourful shots.QG‑8, ul. Święty 18:00-24:00; closed Mon. XE
Marcin 29. Open 19:00-02:00.
73
Nightlife
MINISTERSTWO BROWARU
POLISH VODKA One of our favourite haunts for Polish craft beers; find
AleBrowar brews like Black Hope and Rowing Jack on tap
alongside the establishment’s own Ministerstwo beers and
top-rated European names like Delirium Tremens. If we had
it our way all pubs would be run by folks as knowledgeable
as these fellows, who’ve boiled it down to wood benches,
outdoor seating, and great beer. If you’re up before it’s
afternoon, you’ll find the equally awesome Minister
Cafe upstairs. Second pub localization at ul. Wroniecka
16.QG‑8, ul. Ratajczaka 34, tel. (+48) 601 53 37 47. Open
16:00-02:00. B6
© Pijalnia Wodki, Fabrizio Sciami NASTAWNIA POC
The Poles have been producing and drinking vodka Ok, so the staff here are aloof at best and completely
since the early Middle Ages, distilling their skill into some detached from reality at worst, but Nastawnia PoC’s
of the best vodka blends available in the world. The two location in a converted rail signal box ensures its
most highly regarded clear Polish vodka brands must be permanent place on our ‘unusual drinking spots’ list.
Belvedere and Chopin, both of which you’ll find in any With large glass windows, outdoor seating, and leafy
alcohol shop. But you won’t find many tipplers throwing Wieniawskiego Park off to one side, it’s a welcome
them back at the bar. While clear vodkas are generally alternative to the boisterous drinking scene of the
reserved for weddings and mixed drinks, the real fun of old town. A word of recommendation - skip the food
Polish vodka sampling is the flavoured vodkas, the most and stick to the booze.QE‑6, ul. Noskowskiego 1
popular of which we describe below. (Wieniawskiego Park), tel. (+48) 61 670 00 70, www.
nastawniapoc.pl. Open 12:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-
WIŚNIÓWKA 02:00. TUB
Undoubtedly the most common flavoured vodka,
wiśniówka is cheap and cherry-flavoured. You’ll see PIJALNIA WÓDKI I PIWA
students and pensioners alike buying trays of it at The newspapered interior and nostalgic communist-era
the bar, as well as toothless tramps sharing a bottle in concept here are exactly the same as their dozens of
corners of tenement courtyards. A splash of grapefruit locations all over the country (including a second in Poz
juice is often added to cut the sweetness of this bright at ul. Wrocławska 8, C-2): dirt cheap booze and dirt cheap
red monogamy cure. grub like pickled herring and ‘awesome toasts’ to soak up
the aforementioned booze. This place is packed at all
ŻOŁĄDKOWA GORZKA hours, though it’s best sampled during the later stages of
Due to its very name, which translates to something like the evening when you’re guaranteed a right assortment
‘Bitter Stomach Vodka,’ Żołądkowa Gorzka gives even the of characters who are happy to spill out their life story
most infirm of health an excuse to drink under the guise of for the price of a 4.50zł beer. Very ‘Polish’ and a welcome
its medicinal properties. An aged, amber-coloured vodka alternative to some of the Rynek’s more expensive and
flavoured with herbs and spices, Żołądkowa is incredibly snobby bars. Karaoke nights take place Mon, Tue, Thu,
palatable and best enjoyed when sipped on ice. and Sun 20:00-02:00.QH‑7, Stary Rynek 85, tel. (+48)
791 85 95 55. Open 09:00-05:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-05:00.
KRUPNIK U
A sweet vodka made from honey and a multitude of
herbs. Buy a bottle for Mum – drinking vodka doesn’t PIWNA STOPA
get any easier than this. In winter, hot krupnik is a Heralded for its broad selection - around 200 bottled
popular personal defroster with hot water, lemon and beers and 16 on tap - Piwna Stopa is wildly popular
mulling spices added. with beer connoisseurs who don’t give two craps about
trendy light fixtures or the instagrammability of the
ŻUBRÓWKA interior decor. Not that it’s bad: there’s a certain Czech
One of Poland’s most popular overseas vodka exports, tavern feel what with the old-fashioned wooden chairs,
Żubrówka has been produced in Eastern Poland since wall lamps, and framed miscellanea, and live bands
the 16th century. Flavoured with a type of grass specific play jazz, blues, and rock during the warm season. Their
to Białowieża Forest (a blade of which appears in each leafy summer garden is highly recommendable, as are
bottle), Żubrówka is faint yellow in colour, with a mild the smoked-sausage hot dogs and other meaty treats
fragrance and taste of mown hay. Delightfully smooth as (there’s even venison!).QI‑6, ul. Szewska 7, tel. (+48)
it is on its own, Żubrówka is most commonly combined 793 90 86 00, www.piwnastopa.pl. Open 15:00-24:00;
with apple juice – a refreshing concoction called a ‘tatanka.’ Thu 15:00-01:00; Fri, Sat 13:00-02:00; Sun 13:00-
24:00. B6
74
Nightlife
PRL PUB
There’s two communist theme bars in Poznań, and this
place has the lower profile, the non-existent marketing
budget, and a tiny entrance that’s easy to miss. But it’s
certainly not second best, and if anything its underground
chambers make it all the more convincing in its role as a
hidden piece of history. Packed with memorabilia from the
People’s Republic, and that includes pictures of Soviet icons
and even a riot shield once used to suppress the striking
proletaryat.QI‑6, ul. Żydowska 11 (entrance from ul.
Mokra). Open 16:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 16:00-02:00. X
PROLETARYAT
So what if Stalin killed umpteen times more people than
Hitler? Communism can be a hoot, at least it is if you’re
drunk, so head to this commie bar and raise a glass to Uncle
Joe. Quality local lager, 4zł vodka shots, and - of course -
an assortment of classic Eastern European drinking snacks
like pickles and bread smeared with lard - ensure nights
aren’t dull, and you’ll find this piece of socialist paradise
decidedly stuffed with Cold War keepsakes and Iron
Curtain mementos. Pride of place goes to Lenin, with his
giant plaster head peering through the street-side window.
QI‑7, ul. Wrocławska 9, tel. (+48) 508 17 36 08. Open
15:00-02:00; Fri, Sat 15:00-04:00. B6
SOMEPLACE ELSE
SPE is a natural born winner – few places are better geared to
meet foreign demands, and while the prices are undoubtedly
steep (do you expect anything else from the Sheraton?), it’s
a place where foreigners and locals mix with seamless ease,
chatting about travels while sports beam down from their 9 TVs.
American in spirit, you’ll find Route 66 extras mingled with rock
pics, a strong menu of Tex Mex, burgers, and steaks, as well as
more whimsical touches such as a car bonnet bursting from the
wall. Taking centre stage is a circular bar, the perfect base to chat
to staff while they fix earthquake cocktails and velvet smooth
Guinness. Happy hours commence at 16:00 and go until 20:00
Mon-Sat.QD‑7, ul. Bukowska 3/9 (Sheraton Poznan Hotel),
tel. (+48) 61 655 20 00, www.poznan.someplace-else.pl.
Open 18:00-24:00; closed Sun. UBE
CLUBS
Not exactly Poland’s party capital, Poznań nevertheless
has a functional clubbing scene for the city’s college
students and revellers to blow off steam. Though some
The leafy garden of Piwna Stopa establishments only open their doors on weekends or
Poznań is all about al fresco drinking in the summer. The select days of the week, near-nightly thrills are available
most visible beer gardens are located around the at Cuba Libe (closed Sun), and the big cheese in town is
perimeter of the Old Town Square, but for leafier the international franchise Pacha (yes, the place with the
alternatives try Piwna Stopa (p.73), Fort Colomb cherries).
(p.72), Citadel Park’s Umberto, the outdoor bar at
the back of Stary Browar (p.35), and the backyards CUBA LIBRE
of ul. Żydowska (p.33). Street art enthusiasts will feel Set down a shadowy courtyard basement, Cuba Libre is
right at home in the seasonal Perygród (p.50), the a bouncy Latin venue replete with whitewashed walls,
headquarters of graffiti character Pan Peryskop (the pics of Che, and wall space dedicated to an assortment
Watcher), hipsters should head right to the artsy stack of Cuban goodies. This place goes for detail, so much
of shipping oontainers that is KontenerART (p.50), and so that drinkers can even take a seat in one of those
those who seek peace and quiet with a view can check clapped-out vintage bangers you see pootling round
out the Przystań Na Chwilę beach bar (p.51). For the streets of Havana. The Fiesta Latino Fridays and
food, music, and crowds, there's also the summer-long Disco Latino Saturdays prove seriously popular.QH‑8,
Social Night Market (p.50) occupying an abandoned ul. Wrocławska 21, tel. (+48) 61 855 23 44, www.
railway depot. cuba-libre.pl. Open 22:00-05:00; Fri, Sat 21:00-05:00;
closed Sun. XE
76
Nightlife
CZARNA OWCA
A local institution. Upstairs is a noisy wood-furnished bar, DISCO POLO!
downstairs a hot labyrinthine club. Music is usually no more
challenging than chart hits, though they do occasionally
draw reputable DJ’s and a crowd hell-bent on tipping lots
of booze down their gobholes.QH‑8, ul. Jaskółcza 13, tel.
(+48) 537 67 47 57, www.klub-czarnaowca.pl. Open Fri,
Sat only 21:00-05:00. X
CZEKOLADA
Credit crunch you say? Not in Poznań, people. While the rest
of the world staggers around like a shot pig the denizens
of Poznań are living the high life in places like Czekolada.
To call this place sexy would be a disservice; this is the final Fanatic band © Wikipedia/User: FxJ/CC BY-SA 3.0
word in design drinking and the sort of cocktail spot/lounge
club the city deserves. Huge chandeliers, shiny surfaces, and No, it’s not an equestrian sport involving bell-bottomed
black finishes lend a real svelte look to this spot, and you’d be jockeys (good guess, though), Disco Polo is a rather
a fool to turn up looking like anything less than a celebrity. peculiar and uniquely Polish sub-genre of dance music.
To make a reservation, head to their website of facebook. In fact you may have already been exposed to it without
QH‑8, ul. Wrocławska 18, tel. (+48) 665 55 08 91, www. even realising it. It could have been blaring from a
klubczekolada.pl. Open Thu, Fri, Sat only 22:00-05:00. X suped-up Fiat Duze rolling by, pulsing from a radio in
a Żabka convenience store or been the soundtrack to
PACHA that local wedding you attended a few months back.
Pacha? As in, the world’s most famous clubbing franchise This cult genre first emerged in the early 90’s as folk
Pacha? In Poznań? We’re as shocked as you, but yep, those musicians and wedding bands finally were able to
cherries are real, and this is the only Pacha in Central Europe - upgrade their antiquated audio gear and buy some shiny
validating Poznań’s growing international rep as a prime party new keyboards with built in drum machines (and 70’s
city. Decked out in plush design and pumping out house disco presets). By mixing a little Italo Disco (read: Eurotrash
music for the masses, Pacha is a divorcee’s paradise and one Techno) into their Casiotone folk-anthems, a music
which is attracting big crowds looking to dance away those revolution was born. Disco Polo quickly conquered every
working-week blues. Will its reputation be enough to pull in wedding hall, village disco and nightclub throughout
the punters from Warsaw, Wrocław, and Berlin? Time will tell... the land. By 1995 there were Disco Polo programmes
QH‑7, ul. Paderewskiego 10, tel. (+48) 519 30 02 60, www. on every major radio and television station and even
pachapoznan.com. Open Fri, Sat only 22:00-05:00. X former Polish President Aleksander Kwaśniewski used a
Disco Polo song during his presidential campaign that
PROJEKT LAB year. Times were good and Disco Polo labels like Blue
Inspired by the Berlin party scene - in fact, conceived as Star and ‘bands’ such as Bayer Full, Boys and Shazza were
a direct result of the to-be owners’ wild night at techno pumping out the hits and rolling in the zlotties. But alas,
club Berghain - Projekt LAB is an experimental space and the good times couldn’t last forever.
underground music venue that proved an immense hit as
soon as it opened doors in 2013. The music of choice here Disco Polo was scoffed at from the very beginning by
is electronic and all sorts of alternative beats, often supplied the likes of intellectuals, music critics and professional
by international DJs and bands. Brave the long entry lines musicians who viewed it as hokey and primitive (which
and you’ll be rewarded with a true multimedia experience. it was/is). The tide began to turn for the genre as a whole
QI‑6, ul. Grochowe Łąki 5, tel. (+48) 731 47 71 02, www. when a few scandals involving disco polo artists and local
projektlab.pl/. Open Thu 22:00-04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00- mafia bosses started to make headlines in ‘96 and ‘97.
08:00 only. XB These scandals coincided with a huge drop in cassette
and CD sales. By the late 90’s the wedding party was
SQ officially over and the long national hangover had begun.
Closed until September. Dance with the fittest and the Public opinion and the mainstream media quickly turned
hippest in SQ, by far the most envied dance space in town. and openly derided and lampooned the jovial genre.
Silly haircuts and expensive wardrobes abound here, and Nowadays, the Disco Polo genre is about as respected
they’re here for the music not the design – DJs arrive from as Country & Western or Smooth Jazz. Nonetheless,
all across Poland to play here, sometimes even further. The Disco Polo artists continue to break album sales records
interior isn’t all that, but the nights are legend, and you’ll and tour regularly despite being the butt of almost
find no better place to puff the chest out and behave like every musical joke. The truth is, while it’s been officially
a big time Bertie.QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42, tel. (+48) 663 cool to make fun of Disco Polo for the better part of
78 65 47, www.sqklub.pl. Open Wed 22:00-04:00, Fri, Sat a decade, it’s every red-blooded Pole’s guilty pleasure.
22:00-06:00 only. XE
77
Shopping
LILOU
Pendants, charms, and delicate chains abound in this
boutique-y jewellery shop staffed by immaculately-
attired ladies keen to assist and advise potential buyers.
Glamorous but not intimidating, this is the place to browse
miniature shiny trinkets during an afternoon shopping
break. Also located at the Posnania Shopping Centre
(ul. Pleszewska 1, 10:00-22:00 Mon-Sat, 10:00-21:00 on
‘shopping Sundays’.QH‑8, ul. Półwiejska 8/1-2, tel. (+48)
797 33 43 52, www.lilou.pl. Open 11:00-19:00; Sat, Sun
11:00-17:00.
ŚWIAT BURSZTYNU
Major amber retailer and wholesaler with over 25 years
of experience to their name - that’s a lot in a country that
only returned to a market economy in 1989. Now with
two locations, the second being the behemoth Posnania
Shopping Centre (p.82).QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska 42 (Stary
Browar Shopping Mall), tel. (+48) 61 859 66 88/(+48)
607 07 07 33, www.desta-amber.com. Open 09:00-
21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00.
W. KRUK
Poland’s oldest and most revered chain of jewellery stores
caters to men and women with tastes that range from
classic amber pendants and Tag Heuer watches to modern
designs of their own making. Also at Stary Browar (ul.
Półwiejska 42, G-4), Posnania (ul. Pleszewska 1, M-10),
and Galeria Malta (ul. Maltańska 1, J-4).QH‑7, ul.
Paderewskiego 2, tel. (+48) 661 98 05 61, www.wkruk.
pl. Open 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00; closed Sun.
ANTYKWARIAT NAUKOWY
A vintage bookseller that rewards those who are patient
enough to dig through boxes of old postcards, prints, and
telegrams. It’s easy to lose track of time while meandering
along the well-stocked shelves.QH‑7, ul. Paderewskiego
3/5, tel. (+48) 61 852 63 12, www.antykwariat.pl. Open
10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-14:00; closed Sun.
79
Shopping
ANTYKWARIAT (ANTIQUE SHOP)
Specialises in old toys, technological relics, pre-war GIFTS & SOUVENIRS
postcards, and other special keepsakes.QI‑7, ul. Klasztorna CEPELIA
1, tel. (+48) 61 851 75 13. Open 11:00-18:00; Sat 11:00- A leading chain of souvenir shops selling native arts and
14:00; closed Sun. handicrafts.QI‑7, ul. Klasztorna 21, tel. (+48) 61 852 58
14, www.cepelia.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-14:00;
closed Sun.
BOOKS, MUSIC & FILM
EMPIK CITY INFORMATION CENTRE
This large store is a one-stop shop for foreign press and A wide selection of souvenirs connected with Poznań
magazines (prices are gougey though), guidebooks, there’s including lots of stuff with the most popular symbols of
a somewhat decent English-language book selection, CDs, Poznań. Pick up t-shirts, cups, ornaments, post cards, and
DVD, video games and more. Find them in almost any Polish the like all associated with the head-banging goats, for
shopping mall. Also in Galeria Malta (M-9).QG‑9, ul. Półwiejska instance. You’ll also find tickets and event information,
42 (Stary Browar Shopping Mall), tel. (+48) 61 667 12 00, plus the most popular selection of books and albums
www.empik.pl. Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. relating to Poznań, Wielkopolska, and Poland in foreign
languages.QG‑7, ul. Ratajczaka 44, tel. (+48) 61 854 07
VINYLGATE RECORDSTORE 54, www.cik.poznan.pl. Open 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-
Worth seeking out, this is Poznań’s best music store - full 17:00; closed Sun.
of thousands of new and used vinyl records and CDs
covering all genres, but also with an emphasis on more HANDMADE
contemporary DJ-favoured sounds like techno, house, For souvenirs which are both authentic and actually useful,
electronica, drum’n’bass, breakbeat, etc. Inside you’ll also hand-painted pottery is the way to go; easily recognisable
find plenty of DJ and home stereo equipment, accessories across Poland, these beauties from the Bolesławiec Pottery
for taking care of records, music merch and other gear that Factory have a trademark look and a tradition dating back
make the crew behind Vinylgate the leading ambassadors to the 14th century. We recommend skipping the tacky
for the city’s vinyl revival.QF‑7, ul. Garncarska 3, tel. (+48) tourist kitsch and considering Handmade your one-stop-
501 72 77 97, www.vinylgate.eu. Open 13:00-19:00; Sat shop for gifts to bring back home. Whisper “IYP” to the
12:00-16:00; closed Mon, Sun. cashier for a special 5% discount.QF‑7, ul. Mielżyńskiego
16, tel. (+48) 61 284 17 04. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-
15:00; closed Sun.
FASHION & ACCESSORIES
KARTELL FLAGSTORE PAMIĄTKI Z POZNANIA
Combining creativity and functionality since 1949, this Souvenirs galore - magnets, t-shirts, postcards (oh the
Milanese design company known for colorful plastic nostalgia), handicrafts, mugs, and wonderful Bolesławiec
creations has spawned flagstores all over Europe, including ceramics should take care of your most pressing souvenir
our charming little city.QH‑7, ul. Paderewskiego 8, tel. needs.QH‑8, ul. Wrocławska 25A, tel. (+48) 517 59
(+48) 664 99 40 76, www.kartellshop.pl. Open 11:00- 41 38. Open 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-
19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00; closed Sun. 16:00.
Boutique - Atelier
Symbols of precious moments
Poznań’s open-air markets are the best places to get GALERIA MALTA
cheap local produce and some of the only places in the Located right next to Poznań’s Lake Malta, Galeria
centre where you can buy vegetables that aren’t white Malta is the largest retail and entertainment centre
or in jars. Add to that meats, cheeses, spices, baked in western Poland with over 162,000 square metres of
goods, doorknobs, dog leashes, pagers, potholders shopping and leisure opportunities. Opened in March
and literally anything else you can think of and you’ve 2009, Malta features a Multikino as well as an H&M,
got yourself a nifty cultural experience as well. Practise TK Maxx, Tatuum, Pako Lorente, Guess, and Empik.
your “Proszę” and point skills at any of the unique Dining opportunities include Salad&Co and Costa
shopping environments listed below, and remember Coffee. Trams 16, 17, and 18 all stop nearby (at either
that haggling and attempting to pay with large bills “Kórnicka” or “Baraniaka”).QN‑9, ul. Maltańska 1, tel.
will both be met with disdain. (+48) 61 658 10 22, www.galeriamalta.pl. Open
10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00.
JEŻYCE MARKET
One of Poznań’s most historic and centrally located GALERIA MM
markets is just west of the Old Town on historic Rynek A shopping mall right in the city centre for all your
Jeżycki. Established in 1891, this was once one of the shopping needs, be it clothes, a tall caramel frappuccino,
city’s finest market squares, as evidenced by the faded make-up, or the sudden urge to go bowling. The
glory of some of the intricate Art Nouveau facades on location just can’t be beat - a five minute walk away from
the tenement buildings that surround it. Lately the the Main Square, the Galeria MM is named after the two
area has been going through a bit of a resurgence, and streets that intersect at its address, ul. Święty Marcin
though the market itself may be a bit tatty and you can and Aleje Marcinkowskiego. Behind the eye-popping
hardly expect English to be spoken or understood, the love-it-or-hate-it facade you’ll find around fifty popular
400 merchant stalls here are still a good place to pick stores.QG‑8, ul. Św. Marcin 24, tel. (+48) 61 855 22
up fresh fruit and vegetables, as well as peruse clothing 94, www.galeriamm.poznan.pl. Open 09:00-21:00;
and other random goods you might be wiser not to Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 10:00-19:00.
take home. You certainly won’t beat the prices.QC‑6,
Rynek Jeżycki, www.targowiska.com.pl. Open POSNANIA
06:00-20:00; closed Sun. Poznań’s new shopping behemoth swung its doors
open in late 2016 in a style so lavish, even Eva Longoria
WIELKOPOLSKA MARKET couldn’t keep away (yes, it’s not everyday that random
With Poznań’s historic main market square apparently Polish shopping malls manage to invite A-list celebrities).
not big enough, fruit and veg merchants have been Inspired perhaps by the celebrated Stary Browar
relegated to this 1600 square metre plaza only a few shopping complex, which manages to seamlessly blend
minutes walk away. Renovated and generally more retail space with creative contemporary art, Posnania
orderly than some of Poz’s other open-air markets, collaborates with Pop-up Galerie 208 to integrate
this is the best place for fresh produce in the Old unique sculptures and installations into its layout. The
Town. Among its 200 tent-covered stalls you’ll also most eye-catching of those is David Mesguich’s Lucie,
find copious amounts of meat, cheese, nuts, and the sculpture of a little girl symbolising the future,
other food products, fresh-cut flowers, pots and pans, located outside near the main entrance. Oh, and the
socks and sweatpants, sweets, screws, staplers, toilet shopping? They’ve got brands like Forever 21, Guess,
scrubbers, and whatever else you can imagine.QH‑6, MAC, Sephora, Steve Madden, Pinko, and many more.
Pl. Wielkopolski, www.targowiska.com.pl. Open QM‑10, ul. Pleszewska 1, tel. (+48) 61 628 65 27,
06:00-20:00; closed Sun. www.posnania.eu. Open 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-
21:00.
82
Shopping
83
Health & Services
24-HOUR SHOPS
LEWIATANQG‑8, ul. Św. Marcin 28, www.lewiatan.pl.
COMPUTER REPAIR
DOCTOR GADGET
Computer, tablet, and smartphone repairs, chargers and
powerbanks for sale.QF‑8, ul. Kościuszki 72/5B, tel. (+48)
690 98 30 33, www.doctorgadget.pl. Open 11:00-18:00;
closed Sat, Sun.
NN SERWIS
Laptop and tablet repairs.QG‑8, ul. Św. Marcin 28, tel.
(+48) 602 39 67 16, www.nnserwis.pl. Open 08:00-18:00;
Mon, Wed 08:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-14:00; closed Sun.
84
Health & Services
services. English spoken.QG‑7, Pl. Wolności 9/1, tel. (+48)
61 852 27 55, www.chillident.com. Open 09:00-20:00;
closed Sat, Sun.
DENTOPOLIS
Dental surgeon with 30 years of experience. English and
Spanish is spoken here.QA‑11, ul. Morawskiego 2D, tel.
(+48) 503 19 03 37, www.dentopolis-poznan.pl. Open
10:00-20:00; closed Sat, Sun.
LAUNDRY
SPEED QUEEN LAUDROMAT NEW
This self-service launderette offers five washing machines
(small ones 20zł/load, large ones 30zł/load) and several
tumble-dryers (7zł for 15 minutes). Cash and contactless
credit cards are both accepted. Easy and efficient.QC‑5/6,
ul. Dąbrowskiego 69, tel. (+48) 722 02 76 22. Open
07:00-22:00.
PRIVATE CLINICS
LUXMED
A private medical centre just west of the Old Town.
QE‑7, ul. Roosevelta 18, tel. (+48) 22 332 28 88,
www.luxmed.pl. Open 07:00-20:00; Sat 08:00-14:00;
closed Sun.
RELOCATION COMPANIES
LESS MESS STORAGE
Self-storage is a relatively new concept in Poland, but
this firm has figured out how to deliver a versatile and
professional service. Whether you’re moving, doing a
renovation to part of your home, or need to a place to
store a private collection or business materials, you can
use your space however you wish. Spaces range in size
from 0.5 to 30 square metres and can be rented short or
long-term. Each space is equipped with an alarm, and
can be accessed 24-hours a day via a code that only you
know.Qul. Ostrowska 515, tel. (+48) 61 639 78 98,
www.lessmess.storage.
85
Hotels
UPMARKET
BROVARIAQH‑7, Stary Rynek 73-74, tel. (+48) 61 858
68 68, www.brovaria.pl. 21 Total rooms. PK hhh
DON PRESTIGEQH‑8, ul. Św. Marcin 2, tel. (+48) 61
859 05 90, www.donprestige.com. 73 Total rooms.
PL6HF
HOTEL DESILVA PREMIUM POZNAŃ
QG/H‑8, ul. Piekary 5, tel. (+48) 61 658 80 00, www.
desilva.pl. 60 Total rooms. PULKHF hhhh
HOTEL KOLEGIACKIQI‑7, Pl. Kolegiacki 5, tel. (+48)
61 855 05 05, www.hotelkolegiacki.pl. 24 Total rooms.
PUBKH hhhh
HOTEL MODERNOQC‑12, ul. Kolejowa 29, tel.
(+48) 61 664 66 66, www.hotelmoderno.pl. 88 rooms
(1 apartment). PULKHDF hhhh
HP PARKQP‑9, ul. Baraniaka 77, tel. (+48) 61 874
11 00, www.hotelepark.pl. 97 rooms (1 apartment).
PU6KHY hhh
MAT’SQul. Bułgarska 115 (Grunwald), tel. (+48) 61
868 78 31, www.hotelmats.pl. 35 rooms (2 apartments).
U6KHD hhh
MERCURE POZNAŃ CENTRUMQD‑7, ul. Roosevelta
20, tel. (+48) 61 855 80 00, www.mercure-poznan-
centrum.com. 228 rooms (1 apartment). PUL6
KHDFY hhhh
NOVOTEL & IBIS POZNAŃ CENTRUM
QG‑9, Pl. Andersa 1, tel. (+48) 61 858 70 00, www.
accorhotels.com. 516 rooms (3 apartments). PUL
6KHFY hhhh
NOVOTEL POZNAŃ MALTAQP‑7, ul. Termalna 5, tel.
(+48) 61 654 31 00, www.accorhotels.com. 149 Total
rooms. UL6KHCFhhh
PLATINUM PALACE RESIDENCEQul. Reymonta
19 (entrance from ul. Wyspiańskiego) (Grunwald), tel.
(+48) 61 882 39 40, www.platinumpalace.pl. 39 Total
rooms. P6KH hhhh
ROYALQF‑7, ul. Św. Marcin 71, tel. (+48) 61 858 23 00,
www.hotel-royal.com.pl. 35 Total rooms. LH hhh
87
Hotels
CAPITAL APARTMENTSQH‑8, ul. Piekary 16, tel.
MID-RANGE (+48) 61 852 53 00, www.capitalapart.pl. 36 apartments.
CAMPANILEQul. Św. Wawrzyńca 96, tel. (+48) 61 845
66 00, www.campanile.com. 80 rooms (4 apartments). CLASSICO APARTMENTS
PU6KH hh QD‑6, ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. (+48) 728 41 48 27, www.
classico-apartamenty.com. 28 apartments. T6KH
GARDEN BOUTIQUE RESIDENCE
QI‑7, ul. Wroniecka 24, tel. (+48) 61 222 29 99, www. PLATINUM PALACE APARTMENTS
gardenhotel.pl. 14 rooms (1 apartment). PL QG‑8, ul. Ogrodowa 17, tel. (+48) 61 671 05 66, www.
apartamenty.platinumpalace.pl. 27 apartments. 6
HOTEL KSIĘCIA JÓZEFAQul. Ostrowska 391/393
(Nowe Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 872 63 19, www.hotelkj.pl. POMARAŃCZARNIA
35 rooms (1 apartment). PKH hhh QH‑9, ul. Rybaki 12, tel. (+48) 515 37 73 20, www.
apartamenty-pomaranczarnia.pl. 44 apartments. 6
HOTEL POZNAŃSKI
Qul. Krańcowa 4, Luboń, tel. (+48) 61 649 99 88, www.
hotelpoznanski.pl. 105 Total rooms. ULKH hhh HOSTELS
EXPLORER HOSTELQI‑8, ul. Wszystkich Świętych
HOTEL ŚRÓDKA 6, tel. (+48) 600 96 55 55, www.explorer-hostel.pl.
QL‑6, ul. Śródka 6, tel. (+48) 61 222 00 07, www.hotel- 22 rooms (22 singles, 12 doubles, 6 triples, 3 quads).
srodka.pl. 25 rooms (7 apartments). ULH hhh LK
HOTEL SYSTEM POZNAŃQul. Lechicka 101 (Stare FUSION HOSTELQF‑7, ul. Św. Marcin 66/72, tel. (+48)
Miasto), tel. (+48) 61 821 07 00, www.lechickasystem.pl. 61 852 12 30. 17 rooms (6 doubles, 4 triples, 3 quads,
108 rooms (7 apartments). PL6KHCD hhh 3 six-person room, 1 seven-person room, 61 dorm
beds). U
IBISQJ‑9, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 23, tel. (+48) 61 858
44 00, www.accorhotels.com. 146 Total rooms. PU LA GUITARRAQG‑7, ul. Marcinkowskiego 20A,
L6KH hh tel. (+48) 61 852 20 74, www.lagitarra.com/poznan.
22 rooms (8 singles, 6 doubles, 12 quads, 1 eight-person
REZYDENCJA SOLEI B&B room, 66 dorm beds). L6
QI‑7, ul. Szewska 2, tel. (+48) 510 11 01 30, www.hotel-
solei.pl. 10 rooms (1 apartment). P MELODY
QH‑7, Stary Rynek 67 (entrance from ul. Kozia 16), tel.
STARE MIASTOQH‑8, ul. Rybaki 36, tel. (+48) (+48) 61 851 60 60, www.melody-hostel.pl. 16 rooms
61 659 00 43, www.hotelstaremiasto.pl. 23 rooms (2 singles, 11 doubles, 1 quad, 48 dorm beds, 1 six-
(1 apartment). PLH hhh person room, 2 eight-person room).
HOTEL RAMKAQul. Dąbrowskiego 474 (entrance SODA HOSTEL & APARTMENTSQD‑6, ul. gen. Jana
from ul. Wejherowska 10, Jeżyce), tel. (+48) 61 849 94 Henryka Dąbrowskiego 27A, tel. (+48) 793 27 27 20,
99, www.hotelramka.pl. 27 Total rooms. PLKH www.sodahostel.com. 22 rooms (6 singles, 5 doubles,
hhh 3 quads, 8 suites, 52 dorm beds). P
89
Index
The New Zoo 8, 46
The Old Zoo 8
The Time 61
Toboggan Run Pepsi 45
Tourist Information Centre 25
Twelve Cocktails & Co. 75
Ułan Browar 76
ul. Żydowska 33
Umberto 76
Uno 53
Very Berry Hostel 88
Vinylgate Recordstore 80
VisitPoznań 25
Weranda Lunch & Wine 62
Whiskey in the Jar 76
Whisky Bar 88 76
Why Thai Food & Wine 66
Evening crowds at the Social Night Market (p.50). Photo by Artur Nowicki Wiejskie Jadło 66
Wielkopolska Market 82
Miejscówka 73 Poco Loco Hostel 88 Social Night Market 50 Wielkopolska Martyrs Museum
Minister CAFE 52 Pomarańczarnia 88 Soda Hostel & Apartments 88 49
Ministerstwo Browaru 74 Porta Posnania Interactive SomePlace Else 57, 75 Wielkopolska Military Museum
Models of Poznań 48 Heritage Centre of Cathedral SPOT. 61 28
Moliera 2 Bazar Poznański 80 Island 38, 48 SQ 77 Wielkopolska Uprising
Monument to the Heroes of Posnania 82 Stare Miasto 88 Museum 30, 49
the Poznań Citadel 43 Poznań Army Museum 42 Stary Browar 35 Wino na Kieliszki 72
Mówish Mash 52 Poznań Bamber Museum 48 Steak & Grill Restaurant 61 Wiśniewski 76
Municipal Scales Building 30 Poznań Cathedral 39 Świat Bursztynu 79 W. Kruk 79
Museum of Armaments 43, 48 Poznań Croissant Museum 8, Taczaka 20 53 Wypas 67
Nastawnia PoC 74 48 Thai Smile Massage 85 Yetztu 63
National Museum 48 Poznań Nightingales Neon 36 Thai Thai 66 Zindo Sushi Korean-Japanese
Na Winklu 64 Poznań Stadium 49 The Bell of Peace and Restaurant 63
New Synagogue 34 Pranger 27 Friendship Among Nations 43
NH Poznań 86 PRL PUB 75
Novotel & Ibis Projekt Kuchnia 60
Poznań Centrum 87 Projekt LAB 77 FEATURES & CATEGORIES
Novotel Poznań Malta 87 Proletaryat 75
Oberża Pod Dzwonkiem 65 Przystań Na Chwilę 51 Alphas 34
Od:zysk 29 Pyrland Park 8 Beer Gardens 76
Okrąglak 37 Rabarbar 80 Breakfast 53
Old Town Hall 27 Ramen-Ya 63
Disco POLO! 77
Oskoma 65 Ratuszova 65
Emergency 84
Pacha 77 Restauracja Bamberka 65
Pączuś i Kawusia 53 Restauracja Momo 66 Lake Rusałka 46
Pamiątki z Poznania 80 Restauracja MUGA 61 Markets 82
Papavero 60 Restauracja Nadzieja 67 Mythological Fountains 28
Perygród 50 Rezydencja Solei B&B 88 Neon Art 36
PETIT PARIS Boulangerie 53 Rose Garden 43 Polish Vodka 74
PHOBAR 58 Rosemary's Hostel 88 Poznań Stadium 49
Pies Andaluzyjski 73 Royal 87
Poznań Street Art 29
Pijalnia Wódki i Piwa 74 Royal Castle 35
Śródka 40
Piwna Stopa 74 Różove 53
Plac Wolności 36, 37 Rynek 66 Sunday Shopping Ban 78
Platinum Palace Apartments Sheraton Poznan Hotel 86 The Maluch 18
88 Sleep In Hostel & Apartments Tipping Tribulations 60
Platinum Palace Residence 87 88 Useful Transport Apps 19
90
LET’S MEET IN
BROVARIA
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Stary Rynek 73-74, 61-772 Poznań, tel. +48 61 858 68 68, +48 61 858 68 78 • www.brovaria.pl